JUTE MAGAZINE • 1
WINTER
-CONTENTS
04
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
07
CONTRIBUTORS
editorial&features 06
“ADAMS SWEET & FUNNY” Munehiro Hoashi
“CURIOUSER AND CURIOUSER” Alcibiade Cohen
116
“INTO THE WOODS”
Valentina Frugiuele
126
(COVER) “CHANGE OF SEASON” Colin Hughes
14
136
20
144
“OPHIDIAN” Jeff G. Sales “OUTER LAYER” Jessica Bloom
30
P. 14
108
“COME CLOSER AND SEE” Luca Meneghel
36
“MADELINE” Tereza Janakova
48
“WONDERER” Amy Nelson-Blain
58
“WRAP ME UP” Lucie Desmond
68
“FROST BITE” Genesis Ilada
80
“FABITORIA”
Lynzi Judish
“BUNDLED” Jae Feinberg “SHIVER”
Angela Marklew
152
“FROM THE USSR” Mariana Kogut
162
“WINTER IS COMING” Diana Nikishina
170
“WHITE BALANCE” Miranda De Lay
178
“RÖYKSOPP GAKKAI” Avery Ashmore
184
“LOST IN THE WOODS” Lynzi Judish
194
”The Veins of the City” Fan Liao
86
202
98
212
“NOCTURNELLE” Rubén Vallejo “LION COUNTRY” Christian Bugay
“COUNTRYSIDE COATS” Bri Johnson “AMUSEMENTS IN LOST FORESTS” Carlos Villarejo
220
”COLOR ME WINTER” Nova Stephanie
PG. 212
ON THE COVER: photographer: Colin Hughes, stylist: Emily Saunders, hair: Yuhi Kim, makeup: Kento Utsubo, model: Melanie Culley @ DNA Models, coat by Sharon Wang, sweater by Linie
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-LET TER FROM THE EDITOR
I t ’s a brand new year w hich me a ns a lot o f c h a n g e f or Jute Magazine. We ’ r e ma king p r e p a r a t i o ns for something m uch bigge r, a nd h o p e f u l l y in a little m ore than a ye a r f r om now w e w i l l b e finally ready for a print r un! So, w e h a v e m o ved to quarterly to h e lp r a ise the q u a l i t y o f the issues, starting w ith our Winte r i ssu e ! T h r o u ghout the year w e are hoping to b r i n g m o r e quality content to ou r r e a de r s tha n e v e r b e f o r e . We’re striving to be c ome be tte r a n d b e t t e r, and Jute w ouldn’t be the a ma z ing p u b l i c a t i o n that it is w ithout all of the a ma z ing c o n t r i b u t o rs. I w ant to say a hu ge tha nk you t o e v e r y o n e w ho has contributed to Jute , a nd h o l d o n t o your butts because this ye a r is going t o b e a n e p ic one for Jute, starting with this a m a z i n g i ssue w ith page after pa ge of a ma z ing Wi n t e r a p p arel and som e mind-b lowing ne w c o l l e c t i o n s from some of our fav or ite de signe r s t h a t w e know are going to be a house hold n a m e i n t h e coming years. Enjoy!
XOXO, Lynzi Editor-in-Chief
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contributors
editor-in-chief/designer LYNZI JUDISH
features editor STEFANIA PRUSCINO
webitorial designer MATTHEW VITA
faces designer MAYA MCCOMAS
web developer DAVE BROWN
contributing photographers ALCIBIADE COHEN AMY NELSON-BLAIN ANGELA MARKLEW BRI JOHNSON CARLOS VILLAREJO CHRISTIAN BUGAY COLIN HUGHES DIANA NIKISHINA FAN LIAO GENESIS ILADA JAE FEINBERG JEFF G. SALES JESSICA BLOOM LUCA MENEGHEL LUCIE DESMOND LYNZI JUDISH MARIANA KOGUT MIRANDA DE LAY MUNEHIRO HOASHI NOVA STEPHANIE RUBÉN VALLEJO TEREZA JANAKOVA VALENTINA FRUGIUELE
featured designers
FABITORIA RÖYKSOPP GAKKAI
contributing writer AVERY ASHMORE LYNZI JUDISH
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ZARA coat JUTE MAGAZINE • 6
adams sweet and funny photographer: Munehiro Hoashi, art director: Jin Hase, stylist: Naoki Akiyama hair: Kazuki Fujiwara, makeup: Ryotaro Nakano, model: Sia @ Wizard Models
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ZARA blouse, vest, and pants JUTE MAGAZINE • 8
ZARA coat and jacket
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ZARA coat, vest, jumper, and shoes
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ZARA coat, blouse, trousers and shoes JUTE MAGAZINE • 11
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MAC products: Studio Face & Body Foundation, Brun Eye Shadow, Gorgeous Gold Eye Shadow, Opulash Optmum Black Mascara
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MAC products: Studio Face & Body Foundation, Brun Eye Shadow, Stolen Moment Extra Dimension Eye Shadow, Gorgeous Gold Eye Shadow, Tarnish Eye Kohl Liner, Deep Love Lipstick Bumble & Bumble products: Thickening Hairspray
Ophidian
photographer: Jeff G. Sales, stylist: Marie Revelut, hair/makeup: Alan Milroy, model: Julie @ Next Model Management makeup products from MAC, hair products from Bumble & Bumble
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MAC products: Studio Face & Body Foundation, Brun Eye Shadow, Stolen Moment Extra Dimension Eye Shadow, Gorgeous Gold Eye Shadow, Tarnish Eye Kohl Liner, Playland Collection Yellow Gold Frost Lipstick Bumble & Bumble products: Thickening Hairspray JUTE MAGAZINE • 16
SWILDENS coat, HELMER bag MAC Products: Studio Face & Body Foundation, Stolen Moment Extra Dimension Eye Shadow, Gorgeous Gold Eye Shadow, Lip Conditioner Bumble & Bumble products: Thickening Hairspray
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ATSURO TAYAMA vest, HELMER bag MAC products: Studio Face & Body Foundation, Brun Eye Shadow, Stolen Moment Extra Dimension Eye Shadow, Gorgeous Gold Eye Shadow, Tarnish Eye Kohl Liner, Playland Collection Yellow Gold Frost Lipstick Bumble & Bumble products: Thickening Hairspray
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MAC products: Studio Face & Body Foundation, Lip Conditioner Bumble & Bumble products: Thickening Hairspray
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ELIZABETH & JAMES dress
ROSETTA GETTY sweater JUTE MAGAZINE • 20
outer layer photographer: Jessica Bloom stylist: Heather Newberger hair: Anthony Payne makeup: Samantha Linn model: Sofia Stitchkin @ W/360
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A MOI jacket JULIANNA BASS trousers MODERN VICE boots
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ELIZABETH & JAMES coat A MOI trousers MODERN VICE shoes
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LIE SANG BONG skirt A MOI jacket HUNTER boots
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HUNTER coat
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A MOI coat
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ROSETTA GETTY khaki dress A MOI dress
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LIE SANG BONG jacket COURTSHOP pants MODERN VICE boots
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ELIZABETH & JAMES coat
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GUGLIELMINOTTI dress
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MARIA BERNARDI coat MANGO shirt H&M necklace ZARA leggings
come closer and see photographer: Luca Meneghel, stylist: Maria Bernardi, insects: Norma Nardi hair/makeup: Sabine Gutwenger, model: Lucia @ Youth Department, set design: Francesco Bevilaqua
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BLUGIRL dress H&M earrings
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MARIA BERNARDI coat H&M dress and earrings ZARA leggings
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ZARA shirt H&M pants
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PESERICO coat
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BELSTAFF sweater, KIKI DE MONTPARNASE bra, STOREE skirt, DR. MARTENS boots
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madeline
photographer: Tereza Janakova stylist: Karla Ortiz hair/makeup: Katya Gudaeva model: Madeline Kragh @ Heffner Management
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ZARA sweater, H&M dress, ANTIPEARLE ring JUTE MAGAZINE • 40
AUGUST hat, J CREW sweater, MADEWELL shorts
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J.O.A. sweater JUTE MAGAZINE • 42
KATE SPADE hat, MADEWELL skirt warn as scarf, CLUB MONACO sweater, TOM ORDONIO pants
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CLUB MONACO sweater, RAOUL shorts, TOPSHOP gloves, DR. MARTENS boots
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TOM ORDONIO black coat and skirt, VINVERT mohair coat, AMERICAN APPAREL bra
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TOPSHOP dress, J CREW sweater, ZARA hat
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ZARA sweater and pants, TUFI DUEK gloves
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ANY STEP top and skirt
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WONDERER photographer: Amy Nelson-Blain, stylist: Megan Quigley hair/makeup: Sylwia Lukosz, model: Emma Boyd @ Priscilla’s Model Management
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DIGITALKITTN dress and capelet
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MAT LEE FASHION shirt and skirt
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DIGITALKITTN dress and capped bolero
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LEAH WILLIAMS top
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LEAH WILLIAMS coat,ZALORA COLLECTION pants
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LEAH WILLIAMS top and skirt
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DIGITALKITTN top, MAT LEE FASHION skirt, ANY STEP armpiece
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wrap me up photographer: Lucie Desmond stylist: Sarah Hildyard hair/makeup: Rebecca Jequier model: Grace Cairns @ Zone Models
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BURBERRY sweater ZARA coat
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ASOS coat, ZARA jumpsuit, KATHY MCGEE sweater
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KATHY MCGEE jacket, NEVER FULLY DRESSED top, MONKI shirt and jumper, FOREVER 21 jumper
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YSL shirt, FOREVER 21 trousers
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TOPSHOP coat and jumper, CHEAP MONDAY shirt, ZARA skirt, NIKE socks and shoes
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FOREVER 21 coat, CHEAP MONDAY shirt, ASOS belt, MONKI jumper
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ZARA coat, YSL shirt, URBAN OUTFITTERS belt
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DROP DEAD jacket, URBAN OUTFITTERS shirt, TOPMAN tie, COS trousers
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ZARA cape and coat, FOREVER 21 trousers, NIKE socks, ADIDAS shoes
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Frost Bite photographer/makeup: Genesis Ilada stylists: Sky Naval, Karley Swarens, and Karen Lou @ STLrtists hair: Sydney Clark, models: Aidan Anderson @ SMG Models and Isabella Sarnoff @ Wilhelmina LA makeup products by MAC Cosmetics and Laura Mercier JUTE MAGAZINE • 68
opposte page ASOS turtleneck, TED BAKER pants this page RODARTE top, NOMIA skirt
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LOEWE coat, VINCE vest, J BRAND trousers, PRADA shoes
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Isabella: YVES SALOMON coat, LUSH dress Aidan: TOPMAN shirt, ASOS sweater, BILLY REID trousers
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ASOS top, OBEY cardigan, BANANA REPUBLIC trousers, J CREW belt
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LILLY E VIOLETA sweater, STELLA MCCARTNEY coat, MARNI necklace
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ALEXANDER WANG top and shoes, DRIES VAN NOTEN skirt, MONCLER vest
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Isabella: XOXO dress, ALEXANDER WANG coat, RAG AND BONE gloves Aidan: ASOS top, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO coat
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Isabella: KAREN LOU dress, HELMUT LANG coat
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XOXO dress, ALEXANDER WANG coat, RAG AND BONE gloves
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OPENING CEREMONY coat and dress, ACNE STUDIO skirt, KAREN LOU net scarf
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Isabella: LILLY E VIOLETTA hood, STELLA MCCARTNEY coat, MARNI necklace, VINCE pants Aiden: ASOS top, TED BAKER trousers, ALL SAINTS cardigan, BANANA REPUBLIC scarf
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fabitoria interview by Lynzi Judish
It’s official, FABITORIA is Jute Magazine’s latest obsession. With amazing lines, feminine details and patterns, and serious statement pieces that wow, owning at least one piece from their AW15 collection is the ultimate staple. Editor Lynzi Judish caught up with the designers Victoria and Fabiana to chat
H
ow did the two of you start working together? Where did it all begin? Actually we were classmates in college. At first we were just designing our own daily outfit for ourselves and we got a lot of ”Where did you get the skirt?” “What designer is this?” The idea of FABITORIA started forming at this moment. Fabiana is obsessed with details and pursuits perfection while I (Victoria) am the girl full of character, an avid moviegoer and a fan of modern art. And we were fascinated by the way how the other see the world. FABITORIA is the combination of our names, FABI- is from Fabiana and -TORIA is from Victoria, FABITORIA is kind of a long-time diary exchange project, which allows us to share our inspirations, adventures, and to crystalize all these crazy ideas. Do you two have different roles you play in the design process? What is it like working together? Usually we discuss about the theme for the new season together and figure out the blueprint, including the details, the elements and special embellishment we want to highlight. Then it’s time to design the print pattern, sometimes we could make it in a short time, and sometimes we need to spend lots of time working on the inspirations. Fabiana and I have lots in common and also a lot in different, which makes things interesting and this is where the chemistry work. Fun is when we both shout out “I want to wear this!”, the piece is always the best seller of the season!
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Tell us about your AW15 line. What is the line about? “Laughter is timeless, imagination has no age, and dreams are forever.” said by Walt Disney. FABITORIA believes that everyone is never too old to dream a new dream. In the A/W 2015 collection, FABITORIA provides a chance to be intelligent – to read Fairy Tale. Everything you see could be became a fairy tale, and you could get a story from everything you touch as well. Everyone knows that imagination is the creation. We collected all the elements from different stories and magically casted them on the apparel. What they want is not only exploring your ability to form new things but also bringing your pure spirit back. For this time, FABITORIA keeps signature prints and wilder, refreshing styles and a more vintage tone, and multi-mix fabric with consistency. Fairy Tale collection helps you to have both you – being a girl and a woman at the same time. Be brave enough to listen to your heart that FABITORIA knows how much you want to be just you. We’ve had a glimpse at the SS16 line and it’s amazing as ever! Where did you draw inspiration for the latest collectioen? The theme of S/S 2016 collection came from museum. MUSEUM brought us into another extraordinary journey going through present and past as well as oriental and western world that is going to agitate a great visual enjoyment. The idea came from the metropolis of New York and the British V&A and that is to transfer the genuine beauty from arts collections onto pieces of outfit. Classical and elegant, romantic and exclusive, this series engraves a spirit of eras with floral prints. Delicate gimmicks also makes meaningful finishing touches that will provide peaceful viewing pleasure yet magnificent passion. Can you give us some tid bits and what’s to come for AW16? FABITORIA 16AW will have a lot of three-dimensional decoration combing our signature digital print design, it should be very interesting yet elegant. So we are very looking forward for the next year’s coming. Lastly, where can we buy your clothes?! Here you could find out more about FABITORIA: (free shipping worldwide!) FABITORIA official web: http://www.fabitoria.com/ FABITORIA facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Fabitoria/ FABITORIA instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fabitoria/ JUTE MAGAZINE • 83
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Nocturnelle photographer: Rubén Vallejo, stylist: Tania Fernández hair/makeup: Josh Fernandez, model: Adriana @ VIEW Management
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KOCCA coat
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MOISES NIETO outfit, UNISA shoes, VINF85 bag
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MOISES NIETO dress, ATOS LOMBARDINI necklace
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KOCCA coat, SOFIA RIVERA skirt, BARADA bag, DANIEL ESPINOSA ring
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VIRGINIA ABZUETA suit, BKMTC hat, EVA ONTANAYA shoes
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KOCCA blazer, ATOS LOMBARDINI trousers, UNISA shoes
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MARANI SINGH shirt, KOCCA dress, BRACCIALINI bag
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VIRGINIA ABZUETA dress, ATOS LOMBARDINI jacket, DANIEL ESPINOSA bracelet
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ATOS LOMBARDINI coat, BARADA bag, EVA ONTANAYA shoes
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ATOA LOMBARDINI coat, BARADA bag
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MOISES NIETO skirt as dress, UNISA shoes, DANIEL ESPINOSA bracelet
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BASERANGE turtleneck and pants, A DÉTACHER necklace
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lion country {} photographer: Christian Bugay stylist: Hannah Boucher hair/makeup: Yukari Obayashi model: Diana Carl @ Photogenics assistant: Justin Truong wardrobe provided by Shop Nonna
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LAUREN MANOOGIAN jumpsuit, RACHEL COMEY sweater, ECHO + AIR scarf, WOOLRICH socks, BIRKENSTOCK shoes
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A DÉTACHER sweater, pants and necklace, BASERANGE romper
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ALL SAINTS SPITALFELD sweater, A DÉTACHER sweater, BASERANGE turtleneck, SUZANNE RAE dress, WOOLRICH socks
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MILENA SILVANO jacket, LAUREN MANOOGIAN pants, WOOLRICH socks
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LAUREN MANOOGIAN sweater, shirt and hat, BASERANGE dress, BIRKENSTOCK shoes
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ECHO + AIR top and shorts, RACHEL COMEY turtleneck, WIGWAM socks, BIRKENSTOCK shoes
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MARYAM NASIR ZADEH top, BASERANGE jumpsuit, Vintage coat
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KENNETH COLE sweater, BASERANGE pants, PHYSICAL ATTRACTION robe
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ZARA sweater, Vintage coat, skirt, earrings and necklace
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CURIOUSER and curiouser
photographer: Alcibiade Cohen stylists: Barbara Maldonado and Rocio Fernandez Campoy, model: Abi Lombardi @ Civiles
A.P.C. coat, VINTAGE CONDE shirt and shoes, Vintage skirt and accessories JUTE MAGAZINE • 109
GIANFRANCO FERRE STUDIO coat, LULU MARTINS dress, VINTAGE CONDE shoes, WHAT IF scarf
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VINTAGE CONDE dress and shoes, Vintage shirt
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WHAT IF dress, VINTAGE CONDE shirt, GARÇON GARCIA shoes
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BIMBA VINTAGE jewelry, Vintage dress and shirt
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BIMBA VINTAGE dress, headband VINTAGE CONDE
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VINTAGE CONDE sweatshirt, GARÇON GARCIA shoes, Vintage shirt and pants
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NEW LOOK faux fur, BENETTON pullover, MKT STUDIO pants, BIRKENSTOCK shoes
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INTO THE WOODS photographer: Valentina Frugiuele, stylist: Marion Malabre hair: Lukas Tralmer, makeup: Camille Dievart, model: Elena @ Silent Models Paris
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CAROLL cape and dress
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RIVER ISLAND coat and pullover, AMERICAN VINTAGE pants, MANGO shoes
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MINIMUM coat, TIMBERLAND pullover, LA REDOUTE X ETIENNE DEROEUX pants, MOA hat
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BERENICE coat, NEW LOOK pullover and pants, TED BAKER hat JUTE MAGAZINE • 122
SISLEY coat, LA REODUTE pants, NIKE shoes
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CAMAIEU coat, C&A scarf, H&M plaid scarf, NIKE shoes
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MANGO total look JUTE MAGAZINE • 125
CHANGE of SEASON
photographer: Colin Hughes, stylist: Emily Saunders hair: Yuhi Kim, makeup: Kento Utsubo model: Melanie Culley @ DNA Models
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SHARON WANG coat, LINIE sweater, ASOS socks, SHELLY’S OF LONDON shoes
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RELIGION sweater, LARS ANDERSSON top, LANVIN belt, ASOS socks, TBA shoes
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SHARON WANG coat, DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN sweater, 2ND DAY trousers
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SHEGUL coat and trousers, SAUNDER top, SHELLY’S OF LONDON shoes
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LINIE top
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LINIE top and skirt, 2ND DAY sweater, ASOS socks and shoes
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SHEGUL coat, 2ND DAY top and trousers, SHELLY’S OF LONDON shoes
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SHARON WANG top, 2ND DAY trousers
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2ND DAY top and trousers, THE WHITE PEPPER shoes
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EXPRESS jacket, KAYLA BROWN grey scarf, FADED GLORY black scarf
BUNDLED v. bun-dled (bün’dl) 3. to dress (a person) warmly photographer/stylist: Jae Feinberg hair/makeup: Kadi Carlson, model: Avi @ Axle Management JUTE MAGAZINE • 136
7SEASON dress, LOCA LA vest, LAND’s END jacket, ABERCROMBIE hat, FRYE boots, DAVEY’S bag
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FOREVER 21 jacket, J CREW shirt, GUESS pants, BORN boots
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RELAIS sweater, H&D jacket, JUST ONE pants, ROCKET DOG boots
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BAR III dress, FOREVER 21 sweater, FERREE jacket, KAYLA BROWN hat, MERONA socks, FLORENTINI AND BAKER boots
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RESURECTION poncho, ABERCROMBIE hooded jacket, GARNET HILL dress, DIBA boots
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NIKOS TAKIS dress, RESURECTION blanket scarf, OLD NAVY boots
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KAYLA BROWN head wrap, ALYSON FRANCES scarf, FREE PEOPLE poncho, GAP shirt
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2PLACEBO parka
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JRYU coat, PRIDE vest
shiver photographer: Angela Marklew, stylist: Scot Louie @ One Represents hair: Ashley Lynn Hall @ One Represents, makeup: Deb Chung model: Becca Lane @ Newmark Models
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AZUL by MOUSSEY coat and white sweater, ASOS grey sweater, 2PLACEBO pants, GOORIN BROS. hat
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JRYU coat, MYRIAM ROUAH top and pants
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JRYU coat, AZUL by MOUSSEY sweater, AUGUST ALIVE pants, URBAN OUTFITTERS scarf
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JRYU blue coat, AZUL by MOUSSEY grey coat, HOTEL COLLECTION pants, URBAN OUTFITTERS scarf
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H&M sweater, URBAN OUTFITTERS scarf
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PRIDE poncho, AMERICAN APPAREL shirt, 2PLACEBO skirt, TOPMAN hat
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H&M sweater, KOMADESIGN top
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from the
USSR photographer: Mariana Kogut, stylist: KOMA hair: Natalia Kovalchuk, model: Jana Byk @ Selfie Models Group
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ZAPA coat, GREENFIELD top, KOMA hat, ASOS bag
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TERRANOVA sweater and pants, VALLEVERDE shoes, H&M hat, CHANEL bag
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TOGETHER top, H&M overalls and hat
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TOGETHER top, H&M hat
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MARKS & SPENCER shirt, TERRANOVA sweater, NACCI skirt, H&M hat
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MARIETTA dress, MAYSER hat
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KOMADESIGN coat
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CHANEL coat, PRINCIPLES top, H&M pants
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winter is coming
photographer: Diana Nikishina, stylist: Alexandra Osina hair/makeup: Svetlana Tikhonova, model: Katya @ Starsystem, styling assistant: Ekaterina Pakulina
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NEW LOOK and H&M sweaters, VINGIL hat, TOTEMI ring
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OASAP jacket, VINGIL dress, CALZEDONIA socks, UTERQUE shoes
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VINGIL sweater, ZARA skirt and shoes, H&M socks JUTE MAGAZINE • 165
NEW LOOK and H&M sweaters, VINGIL coat, MANGO jeans, CALZEDONIA socks, LEON shoes JUTE MAGAZINE • 166
OASAP coat, VINGIL scarf as top, BAON belt
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VINGIL coat, LES hat
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VINGIL sweater, OASAP skirt, CALZEDONIA socks, LEON shoes JUTE MAGAZINE • 169
H&M sweater and pants, ZARA shoes, MADEWELL rings
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white balance photographer: Miranda De Lay, stylist: Andrea Guindi hair/makeup: Kayla Postma for Sephora, model: Jessica Egbu
FOREVER 21 sweater
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BRANDY MELVILL sweater, FREE PEOPLE dress, MERONA scarf, MADEWELL rings
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BRANDY MELVILLE sweater, HELMUT LANG shirt, BCBG pants, ZARA scarf, AMERICAN APPAREL socks, STEVE MADDEN shoes, MADEWELL rings
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HELMUT LANG shirt, BRANDY MELVILLE pants, ZARA coat and shoes, MADEWELL rings
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FLEUR DU MAL shirt and gloves, CLUB MONACO skirt
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H&M sweater, URBAN OUTFITTERS skirts, MADEWELL shoes and rings
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H&M sweater, KIMCHI BLUE top, CLUB MONACO skirt, ZARA shoes, MADEWELL rings
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röyksopp gakkai interview by Avery Ashmore of Stylish Rubbish
Guest editor Avery Ashmore connected with the amazing mind Chan Brun behind röyksopp gakkai to learn about the latest collection, the inspiration behind the designs, and what’s next for our favorite Chinese brand.
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How long have you been involved in the industry? I have graduated with a bachelor degree specializing with knitwear and technology in 2013. Since then, I worked in the fashion industry. I first started off working in one of the biggest scale fashion houses in Hong Kong as an assistant designer, while building up my own brand röyksopp gakkai at the same time. In 2014, I left the company and fully focused on my brand. How did you get your start? In the beginning, röyksopp gakkai was just a short term project that I hoped to extend into my graduation collection. The idea is that I believe clothes is just one of the medias in which to express my belief and aesthetic, while the easiest way is to dress them up as pieces of wearable arts in daily lives. Thus besides costume-style outfits, I hope to present my concept in a more wearable way. What is the idea/story behind royskopp gakkai? “röyksopp” stands for a kind of mushroom in Norsk, while “gakkai” means school club in Japanese. I picked the two languages for my brand name as these are my favorite countries. Not only the place, but also the culture, lifestyle, music and tales. M brand design concept is to show the stage of a teenage girl transforming into an adult. Silhouettes of röyksopp gakkai are based on European kids wear from 16th-19th centuries as I love these periods most. Describe your creative process. Usually, my process for developing a new collection is to read storybooks and watch movies. I would jot down keywords while reading or watching movies and also
make remarks on the details of their costumes and other appealing visuals. Afterwards, I would pick my favorite ones out and do more research on it, like the time background of the story, the colorway, etc. Sometimes I would make up an entire new story from these small details too. After developing the story base, I would start doing sketches and make it into a collection. How would you describe or categorize your aesthetic? With a soft touch of Minimalism and Weird-Cuteness ,these create designs of röyksopp gakkai. What were the biggest influences and inspirations for the latest collection? The concept of the current collection was originated from evil child horror films in the 1960’s. Operazione Paura (aka Kill, Baby…Kill! and Village of the Damned were the main inspirations. Both of the movies were about kids who had caused unconscious suicide of the villagers. Blond hair on the kids, delicate gowns, impeccable German style uniform-liked outfits… These all gave me great influences. Silhouettes were based on kidswear in the 1960’s. Using different fabric manipulation techniques, this collection includes smocked dress, pleated skirts, and collars and edges with scallop. For coloration, warm grey, ash blue in a pastel palette, and white were used. Fabrications included peached cotton, wool, corduroy and cashmere- acrylic knit, which creates comfort and a soft hand feel. For the photo-shooting part, me and my art direction team were fascinated by surrealism paintings, mostly by René Magritte. Those paintings were a bit creepy yet beautiful and calm, in which the mood suits this collection and röyksopp gakkai well. Since the launch of royksopp gakkai in 2013, how has the brand grown and changed? From the beginning of this brand, the first collection has already gained interest from Lady Gaga, who wore our collar piece and attended a public occasion. With JUTE MAGAZINE • 178
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our second collection, it is an honor that we will jump out from Asia and get a chance to sell in Paris. We are now having stockists over Paris, Spain, Seoul, Japan, Taiwan and Hong Kong. What are your ultimate goals for royksopp gakkai - how do you envision it’s future in the fashion industry? I wish röyksopp gakkai could attend showrooms or fashion shows in Europe in the coming few years and gradually develop into a better brand. But ultimately, I hope to create a unique design style and aesthetic that would wow European audiences, just like how Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto did in 1980s. On the other hand, I hope röyksopp gakkai can become more diverse and fall onto different spectrums of arts. What are your current favorite trends, and why? Transparent fabric usage and ribbon bows. I have been obsessed in studying and making ribbon bows currently. Thus, by watching runway shows photos, I could discover more new forms of ribbon bow and learn how they are made. For transparent fabrication, this has been like a signature for us as there will be transparent items almost every season, but made of different material and weaved by different methods. What do you want to portray or communicate through your latest collection? The latest collection got its inspiration from evil child horror movies. I would like to express that sometimes there is no absolute right or wrong. The kids caused villagers death without knowing themselves doing wrongly, they just did that eventually. It was not because they were just simply bad seeds but because of Karma. What are your thoughts on the importance of Eco-fashion and sustainability? Since there is fast fashion, garment manufacturing causes huge pollution and wastage. Thus, to make sustainable design that can last longer and be wearable after years is one of my goals. On the other hand, sooner or later we will be run out of resources. We need to be good to our nature as we as humans have to rely greatly on her, so Eco-fashion is crucial. http://royksoppgakkai.com
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BANANA REPUBLIC sweater, HELMUT LANG pants, ADIDAS shoes
lost in the
woods photographer: Lynzi Judish, stylist: Jolene Nava hair/makeup: Nina Marie, model: Alyssa Schuetter @ Donna Baldwin Agency post-production: George Buczko
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this page MADEWELL sweater, AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS leggings, shawl, and sweater around waist opposite page TOPSHOP under sweater, BANANA REPUBLIC over sweater, HEI HEI vest, AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS leggings, COUNTRY GENTLEMAN hat
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this page MADEWELL sweater, BANANA REPUBLIC coat opposite page TOPSHOP dress, BANANA REPUBLIC sweater, HELENE coat vest, BASS socks and shoes
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this page MADEWELL coat and pants, TOPSHOP sweater, NIKE shoes, FOREVER 21 hat opposite page TOPSHOP top, BANANA REPUBLIC sweater around waist, MOTH pants, BASS shoes
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this page BANANA REPUBLIC sweater opposite page MADEWELL sweater, MOTH sweater around waist, HELMUT LANG pants, ADIDAS shoes
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AMERICAN APPAREL shirt, FLYING TIGER hairbrush
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The Veins of the City photographer: Fรกn Liao, stylist: Claire Granlund hair/makeup: Nynke de Jong for MAC Cosmetics, model: Carolien Bunnik @ Ulla Models
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AMERICAN APPAREL top
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VANILIA sweater and vest, DIESEL beanie, HEMA socks, K-SWISS shoes, STIEGLITZ bag
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STIEGLITZ sweater, AMERICAN APPAREL stockings, K-SWISS shoes
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STIEGLITZ shirt and pants
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COS shirt
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AMERICAN APPAREL shirt and skirt
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e d i s y r t n uo Coats photographer: Bri Johnson stylist: Melissa Ward Schorsch makeup: Dihan FC model: Emily Steel @ MC2 Model Management retoucher: Elizabeth Stacy
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BROCK COLLECTION coat, TALBOT RUNHOF jacket, CLUB MONACO sweater. JULIANNA BASS pants, LADY GREY and WWAKE rings, BY BOE earrings
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PREEN by THORNTON BREGAZZI coat, CLUB MONACO sweater, CAMILLA AND MARC jumpsuit, UNIQLO socks, LOEFFLER RANDALL shoes, BY BOE rings
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HOUGHTON coat, LAUREN LEVIN sweater, THEORY pants, BCBGENERATION shoes, PORTOLANO gloves JUTE MAGAZINE • 206
JULIANNA BASS coat, BELSTAFF sweater, BRANDON SUN skirt, STILL HOUSE rings, MELISSA JOY MANNING earrings
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BROCK COLLECTION coat, BRANDON SUN top, ADEAM skirt
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HOUGHTON coat, BRANDON SUN dress, & OTHER STORIES socks, BCBGENERATION shoes JUTE MAGAZINE • 209
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ADEAM coat, ZIMMERMANN top, ÖHLIN/D skirt
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NAF NAF coat, skirt and top, LAUTHEM bag
Amusement
in lost forests photographer: Carlos Villarejo, stylist: Carmen Bena hair/makeup: Marcel Castellano, model: Katie Gibbins @ View Management
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LEANDRO CANO top, skirt, and shoes. LAURA BERNAL coat
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LOLITAS & L cardigan, NAI OF DEATH lingerie
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UKE jumper, ISATO skirt
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LEANDRO CANO top amd skirt. LAURA BERNAL coat
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EL ALFEﾃ選QUE jumpsuit, VIRGINIA ABZUETA hip accessory
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LOLITAS & L jumper, BEATRICE B skirt, BARADA bag
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CLOCHE blazer, top and skirt, SAPTODJOJOKARTIKO scarf
color me winter photographer/stylist: Nova Stephanie hair/makeup: Dewi Kumala, model: Tiara Nabyl
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AZALIA CLARISSA dress, SPOTLIGHT blazer
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GERALDUS SUGENG gown
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opposite page SPOTLIGHT blazer and pants this page TAWA by TIMAMI YESTHA coat and headpiece, SPOTLIGHT top, AZALIA CLARISSA pants, AYU JOESNI shoes
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AYU JOESNI coat, SATO NOZOMI dress
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TAWA by TIMAMI YESTHA coat, SATO NOZOMI top, SPOTLIGHT pants
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opposite page AYU JOESNI coat, SATO NOZOMI vest, top and skirt, PRIYO OKTAVIANO clutch this page AYU JOESNI sweater, SATO NOZOMI pants
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AYU JOESNI sweater and skirt
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AYU JOESNI coat and pants
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GERALDUS SUGENG gown, AZALIA CLARISSA blazer
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