Jute Magazine - Volume II by Jute Magazine

JUTE VOLUME II

TABLE OF CONTENTS

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VOLUME II Editors: Lynzi Judish Kadie Murphy

Contributing Writers: Christi Bode Cheryl Upshaw Nicole Schaap Contributing Photograhers: Lynzi Judish Adrian Jiun Christi Bode Kitty Gallanis Michela Riva Irvin Rivera Nomi Ellenson Mike Larremore Rhian Cox Kendra Martin Michelle Frampton Travis Geny Kevin Alexander Brandon Sanchez Gary Woods

LETTER FROM EDITORS THE

Designer: Madeline Brandt

The days get darker sooner this time of year, and as every fashionista knows, everything good happens after sundown and the world becomes just a little more interesting as the night owls begin to wake. In Volume II, we cry â&#x20AC;&#x153;the freaks shall inherit the earth!â&#x20AC;? and our celebration is in full swing! From gender bending, to pig love, we explored the fetishes and reach out to the edges of society. We hope that within this issue, you find something that appeals to your nocturnal self. You may be surprised what you find intriguing. XOXO, Kadie and Lynzi Editors

For submission information visit www.jutefashionmagazine.com

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Photographer: Lynzi Judish Models: Jiana Davis (ANTM Cycle 20), Kadie Murphy (pig) Hair and Makeup: Kadie Murphy Stylist: Nicole Schaap Wardrobe provided by Crème de la Couture Location: The Argo Inn and Suites in Idaho Springs, CO

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Jeans 7 For All Mankind Tuxedo Vest Yves Saint Laurent Booties Yves Saint Laurent Sunglasses Chanel Belt Dolce and Gabbana

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Dress BCBG

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Coat Brighton Paris

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Coat Brighton Paris Boots Gucci

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Blouse Gucci Pants Paul Smith

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Coat Andrew Marc Sunglasses Chanel

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Jacket Lillie Rubin

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Dress Vintage Dallas Chatilly Lace Shoes Prada

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Art Direction/Photographer: Adrian Jiun Assistant Photographer: Chun Phua Models: Conrad Gabriel Ho, Diana Deyn, Louise Arild Fashion Stylist: Reyme Stylist Assistant: Stella Hair Stylist: Zennie Cassan Makeup Artist: Michelle Gown Design: Le Grand Wedding Set/Prop Design: Le Scenographe Lighting Artist: Richard Chen Location: Tampines Eco Green Park, Singapore

THE WONDERLAND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ADRIAN JIUN

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XXXY Author & Photographer: Christi Bode

As LGBT Americans were celebrating this summer’s U.S Supreme Court rulings abolishing California’s same-sex marriage ban and the Defense of Marriage Act, Russian President Vladimir Putin signed a law this summer that forbids public advocacy of LGBT rights in Russia. This prohibits not only public Pride demonstrations but any public affirmation of LGBT identities, especially when it comes to mass media. International athletes and visitors will lose the ability to speak, express and organize around LGBT causes at the 2014 Olympic Games in Sochi next February, an event that normally represents global unity and diversity. Things taken for granted at home, such as simply talking to media about being lesbian, gay or publicly wearing opposite-gender clothing, is considered to be breaking the law. Russian authorities have sought to assure the international community their policies are the lesser of the evils, as their law fines same-sex relationships instead of criminalizing them. In other news, I lost four Facebook friends as a result of posting previews of this gender-

bending editorial spread on my business page. I cried, but just a little. Reality is, especially when it comes to the “T” in LGBT, there is still significant stigma and discrimination about the transgender population. However, I feel grateful to live in a nation where I can explore social issues as an artist in a provocative manner, as the U.S. continues its march to equality and challenges repressive ideologies. This editorial spread, XXYY, is a collaboration of minds wanting to push beyond the pretty and get into the gritty. When Angie and Kori first presented this idea of makeup application, literally splitting a subject’s face into male and female counterparts, I found the theme a difficult one to conceptualize and it didn’t clearly present itself to me until we were in the studio shooting. We wanted to push the boundaries without being raunchy, comical or create a storyline about drag queens. I met our three models, Liam, Jennifer and Ben, the day of the shoot. Knowing very little about their backgrounds or personal lives, in combination with a “revealed” layer of identity

Models: Jennifer Clark, Liam Woodward, Ben Shumway HMUA/Special FX: Angie DeFrancis-Cox & Kori Schell of AK Studio Wardrobe provided by Nicole Schaap of Creme de la Couture

Tie Chanel Necklace Unlabeled Vintage

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Shirt Bugatchi Necktie Vintage Pierre Balmain Jacket Vintage Karltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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superimposed on their face had me wondering, “How do I relate to these characters, much less pose them?” As a photographer, it never crossed my mind that gender identity intertwines with how my subject is posed, especially when striking a topic that is in the cultural spotlight. Gender switch-ups in the fashion realm are viewed in a different light. When female models do drag, it’s typically viewed as hot and edgy, something of a new kind of beautiful. Girls in suits and suspenders, dirt on their faces or ties around their necks; girls posing like boys next to girls dressed like girls. The mainstream can handle a wiry female fashion model in her boyfriend’s jeans, but is

generally disturbed by real-life displays of female masculinity which are viewed as seditious and frightening. And you know what I say? Fuck the prettiest boy in the world (not literally). Ben enters the set after hair, makeup and wardrobe. He stands there. I stand there. “Hey Ben, um, okay...let’s have you stand tall, feet apart, shoulders broad, a more masculine pose for this first round.” He tries it, and it couldn’t have been anymore awkward. We all laugh and immediately turned the page to another idea.

“Okay, screw it. Just be you.”

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Tie Chanel Necklace Unlabeled Vintage

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Jacket Hart Schaffner and Marx Shirt Thomas Pink Tie Vintage Trimshape by Cavalier

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Dress Shirt Bugatchi Necktie Vintage Pierre Balmain Jacket Vintage Karltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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Jacket Hart Schaffner and Marx Shirt Thomas Pink Tie Vintage Trimshape by Cavalier

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C our t es n a ty Gallanis Photographer: Kit ie Model: Diana Mar

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Corset Stormy Leather Skirt The Secret Boutique

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Mask Epic Leather

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Dress Versatile Fashions

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TOTAL ECLIPSE Photography: Michela Riva Model: Giulio Cancelli Hair/Makeup: Cecilia Carbonelli

Assistant: Cristina Salvi Stylist: Michela Puzzer

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Giulio Cancelli, born in 1981, began his professional acting career at the age of 19 years. His love of acting began in the theater, but soon spread to the exploration of several disciplines including movies and television, dubbing and radio, as well as miming in several major productions. In this editorial, we were inspired by the movie Total Eclipse directed by Agnieszka Holland in 1995, a film based on the life of the poet Arthur Rimbaud.

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Shirt Sandra Vascotto Pants H&M Makeup Kryolan

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Shirt Sandra Vascotto Makeup Kryolan

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Shirt Sandra Vascotto Makeup Kryolan

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Shirt Sandra Vascotto Makeup Kryolan

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Shirt Sandra Vascotto Makeup Kryolan

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Shirt Vintage Makeup KRYOLAN Artificial Blood Studio 13

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Shirt Vintage Makeup KRYOLAN Artificial Blood Studio 13

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Family Affairs

Photographer Irvin Rivera Assistant Photographers Benjamin Kui, Darwin Abad, Francis Gum Stylist Jenna Enns Models Kristina Pinkerton, Nick Sabatalo, Paris de Grasse, Benjamin Kui Hair/Makeup Jessie Frahm Fashion Designer Rocky Gathercole

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Necklace MAI Collection Boots Shoes for the Stars LA

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Model 1 Boots Shoes for the Stars LA Model 2 Boots Shoes for the Stars LA

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Boots Shoes for the Stars LA

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Model 1 Denim Zara Model 2 Boots Shoes for the Stars LA

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Briefs Topman

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Briefs Topman

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Model 1 Boots Shoes for the Stars LA Model 2 Denim Zara Model 3 Underwear For the Stars LA Model 4 Boots Shoes for the Stars LA Underwear Topman

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Model 1 Underwear For the Stars LA Model 2 Boots Shoes for the Stars LA Model 3 Boots For the Stars LA Underwear Topman

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Photographer: Nomi Ellenson Photo Assistant: Josh Treadaway Model: Kayla Graninger Stylist/Hair/Makeup: Georgia Mitropoulos Lingerie: Agent Provocatuer

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Fur Unlabeled Vintage

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Fur Unlabeled Vintage

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Fur Unlabeled Vintage

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Fur Unlabeled Vintage

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PHENOTYPE Photographer: Mike Larremore

Model: Amy Loubris | Makeup: Kelly Christensen

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Hat Rokit Coat Topshop Boutique Shirt Topshop Unique Belt Rokit Skirt Beyond Retro

PHOTOG RAPHER R hian Cox MODEL B ethan HAIR/MA KEUP Kim ber STYLIST K atherine W ley Weinreich hyte

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Hat Rokit Coat Topshop Boutique Shirt Topshop Unique

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Hat Rokit Coat Topshop Boutique Top Uniqlo Dungarees Vanessa Bruno Athe

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Hat Rokit Shirt Antipodium Jacket Topshop Boutique Skirt COS

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Coat Topshop Boutique Trouser Sessun Socks Falke Shoes New Balance

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Coat Topshop Boutique Top American Apparel Trouser Sessun Socks Falke Shoes New Balance

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Hat Rokit Coat Topshop Boutique Top Uniqlo Dungarees Vanessa Bruno Athe Socks Falke

Page 107 Clothing Image 1 Earring Stylist’s Jumper Beyond Retro Image 2 Earring Stylist’s Jumper Beyond Retro Belt Rokit Trouser COS Image 3 Top COS Jacket Won Hundred Trouser Won Hundred Bag COS Image 4 Coat Topshop Boutique Shirt WoodWood Short Beyond Retro Socks Falke Shoes New Balance

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Dress Nicole Miller Bracelets Rocklain

HAUNT Photographer/Stylist: Kendra Martin | Model: Kayla Washburn |

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Hair/Makeup: Chloe Mesa

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Shirt Cote dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Azur Headpiece Rocklain

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Veil Bella Rose Bracelet Ever Faith Ring Ever Faith

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Veil Bella Rose Bracelet Ever Faith Ring Ever Faith

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Dress Nicole Miller Bracelets Rocklain

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIESH PHOTOGRAPHY/MICHELLE FRAMPTON Modeling by Annie DeSantis, Hannah Maybe Styling by Miesh Photography Featured clothing is unlabeled vintage

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When given a choice, designer Jessica Rowell chooses to go bold. Her statement-making designs, which include kimono dresses, burnt skirts, and octopus necklaces, are both dramatic and colorful. In her own life, Rowell flounces through the world in bright prints and bohemian wear with flaming two-tone hair. And this is the most demure she gets. On the runway, it’s sweeping trains, diving necklines, towering headdresses, and experiments with vintage fabric. Tell us about your background as an artist. Where are you from, and how did you get into fashion?

What drew you to Japanese fashion? Have you travelled to Japan to study it more closely?

I was born in Atlantic City, New Jersey and raised in Denver, Colorado where my label is currently based. I have a strong background in the visual arts; I was a painter and produced traditional artworks throughout my academia. During high school, I developed an interest in Japanese culture via language studies, falling in love with street-styles and sub-cultures such as visual kei, Gothic Lolita, and cosplay. This inspired my pursuit in costume design. Through trial and error I honed a skill-set necessary to achieve and produce characterbased costumes, and as my work progressed I slowly migrated into avant-garde pieces and then eventually fashion design.

I was drawn to the originality and visual quality. When I was 16 I received the opportunity to travel throughout Japan via a host/exchange program. It was my first time traveling outside the states and also one of the most inspiring experiences. When you create a “character-based costume,” are the pieces derivatives of existing characters, or do you make your own? I have produced replica work in the past for clients, however when creating character work it is more so a re-imagining of a certain character, but made in my style.

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Photographer Nina Pak Model Elizabeth Maiden Hair/Makeup Jessica Rowell Wardrobe/Styling J-Chan’s Designs Jewelry Designer Marianna Harutunian Location Vancouver B.C.

Do you still make costumes? Yes! I still create costumes. I think a majority of my work is still widely considered costume, but before the end of the year I have plans to release a ready to wear collection. What will be included in the ready to wear collection? What can we expect to see in that type of clothing, since your couture work is so avant-garde? The ready to wear collection will include a jacket, skirt suit, pant suit, tote bag and leggings. I created original textiles for the collection that feature my own hand drawn sharpie sketches. The collection is clean line and wearable, but still very avant-garde - just in a minimalist way. It’s black and white in theme and has a bit of a Tim Burton feel to it. 134 JUTE MAGAZINE

Where can readers find the ready to wear stuff, once it’s released? My line will be released on my site before 2014, and will be included under the campaign section. It hasn’t been determined yet, but the pieces may become available for pre-order in limited quantity Where do you get your inspiration for your work? I draw most of my inspiration from my surroundings. As I’m currently living in the Mojave Desert, everything from the vacant landscapes to the Joshua trees and sunsets here have inspired me greatly.

Finally, what do you have to say to Jute readers? Never sacrifice who you are or compromise your vision for the sake of others. Be true.

You can explore what J-Chans Designs has to offer at www.j-chansdesigns. com and at www.facebook.com/ jchansdesigns.

I was inspired for this by Kate Moss in W Magazine. Having already created large floral headpieces prior, I was drawn to the monochromatic look it had a fairy tale quality to it and reminded me of sleeping beauty. I used this as the basis in creating my design.

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This piece is inspired by Vaslav Nijinskyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attire in Le Spectre de la Rose, which I reproduced in tribute of the 20th century dancer. The model, Darren Dean, was my muse and recommended the concept as a collaboration.

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Photographer The Corvo Brothers Model Darren Dean Makeup Jessica Rowell Wardrobe/Styling J-Chanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Designs Location Perigee Studios in Denver, CO

Photographer Jamais Vu Model Alexandra Mathews Hair Jessica Rowell Makeup Teal Druda Wardrobe/Styling J-Chanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Designs Location Los Angeles, CA

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This is an original created from vintage fabrics cut from an evening gown and a wedding dress. I started with the bodice appliquĂŠ as my inspiration, hand-sewing many of the details, and continued to build the piece around it.

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Another original. It was commissioned by a client who requested a dark version of the blessed mother. I was widely inspired by Mexican art of Our Lady Guadalupe, and found creative ways to represent certain elements, such as replacing the rays of light with feather spokes.Â

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Photographer Jane Queen Model Vivica Ex Astris Makeup Molly Walsh Wardrobe J-Chanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Designs Location Atlanta, GA

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Photography Liz Besanson Model Meri Ramirez Hair Ashley Miller Makeup Jen Garde Wardrobe J-Chanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Designs Jewelry Designer Concrete Polish

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This image features one of my most sought-after accessories. With the popularity and frequent use of finger tentacles I was determined to use them in a new way. I was simply inspired by a literal octopus, which essentially has a head and tentacles, this brought on the idea of creating the tentacles as a necklace.

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Photographer Jamais Vu Model Katya V Vall Hair/Makeup Cha Cha Wardrobe/Styling J-Chanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Designs Hair Accessories Cha Cha Location Los Angeles, CA

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Halcyon Waning Photographer: Travis Geny | Model: Sarah Buckley | Stylist: Laura DiGiovanna Vintage clothing courtesy of Reveille Boutique in Portland, OR

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Dress Kenny

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Dress Kenny

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Top Stone Cold Fox Shorts Shakuachi

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Top Stone Cold Fox Shorts Shakuachi

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Belt Alice by Temperley Skirt Opening Ceremony

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Belt Alice by Temperley Skirt Opening Ceremony

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Jacket Alice by Temperley Shorts Shakuachi

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Jacket Alice by Temperley Shorts Shakuachi

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Skirt Opening Ceremony

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Skirt Opening Ceremony

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Model 1 Hat Stylist’s Own Jewelry Uptown Cheapskate Bodysuit Uptown Cheapskate Thigh Highs Provided by RMH Shoes Provided by RMH Model 2 Hat Stylist’s Own Necklace Provided by RMH Bustier Rachel Marie Hurst Shorts Nordstrom Bracelet Like a City Knee Highs Provided by RMH Shoes Provided by RMH

Photographer: Kevin Alexander Models: Heidi Dodgers, Jamie Magnus Hair: Kevin Alexander Makeup: Kevin Alexander Stylist: Amber Alexandria

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Necklace Provided by RMH Jacket Zara Bustier Rachel Marie Hurst Shorts: Nordstrom Bracelets Like a City Knee Highs Provided by RMH Shoes Provided by RMH

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Earrings Nicole Meng Dress Rachel Marie Hurst Rings Uptown Cheapskate

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Earrings Uptown Cheapskate Suspenders Hot Topic Belt Provided by RMH Rings Uptown Cheapskate Skirt Kahlo 162

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Dress Rachel Marie Hurst Bustier Provided by RMH Ring Nicole Meng Bracelets Uptown Cheapskate Other Rings Uptown Cheapskate Shoes Provided by RMH

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Hat Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own Earrings Uptown Cheapskate Dress Kahlo Belt Provided by RMH

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Hat Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own Earrings Nicole Meng Bustier Provided by RMH Top In My Air Skirt Kahlo

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Dress Uptown Cheapskate Glove Stylist's Own Ring Nicole Meng Shoes Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

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Earrings Uptown Cheapskate Necklace Provided by RMH Jacket Zara Bustier Rachel Marie Hurst Shorts Nordstrom Bracelets Like a City

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Jewelry Uptown Cheapskate Bustier Uptown Cheapskate

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Hat Stylist’s Own Earrings Uptown Cheapskate Dress Uptown Cheapskate Glove Stylist’s Own Ring Nicole Meng

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If you’re not into deadly weapons how about a dead animal? These shoes were created by Iris Schieferstein. Iris Schieferstein, is a German Shoe designer, that takes taxidermy to a whole new level. The bird shoes above are just one of his many interesting takes on appropriate footwear. The “Temptation” adornments are stuffed white pigeons. I’m not sure if animals were harmed or if it was a natural situation. Either way taxidermy meet fashion, fashion this is taxidermy. Hmmm for some reason I’m not sure the two are going to play nice.

t’s autumn and the tune of the season is heels to die for! If you’re looking for “killer heels” scoop up a pair of red patent leather pumps. Nothing says fierce fem fatale quite like red patent leather. Sometimes you have to look at fashion just for the art of it. We don’t need to take it all so seriously. Fashion, like the Da Vinci, can be viewed from a distance. (Bad analogy?) To avoid being too cliché, I had to go ahead and get literal. When we dive into the world of high fashion, “killer heels” take on a whole new meaning. What do you give a girl who has everything? … Pumps packing pistol heels by Chanel of course. When Madonna was spotted in the Chanel Miami Vice shoe, the collectible value sky rocketed, making these pumps nearly impossible to find. If you do come across them, beware of imposters and plan on breaking the annual budget. If general danger is more your thing, slip Tove Jansson and Per Emanuelsson’s “chained” shoes on for size. The two students created these lethal linked up heels for a shoe contest and took home the win. They actually manufactured them in Switzerland for a short time. These are also highly collectible, likely dawning the shelves of museums.

Just in case you need it all he created the Horse-Hoofed Gun Heels. Deadly weapon? Check. General danger? Check. Dead Animal? Check. Check out these wild shoes. Takes “hoofing it” to a whole new level, I no longer wish to walk on the wild side, so thank you Iris. There is a very clear difference between wearable garments and artistic concepts. The runway is the best example of this. Couture runway shows usually give the audience a feel for what the pret a porter, or “ready to wear” collection will feel like. Pret a porter literally means the garment is ready to wear. No fittings or drastic alterations should need to take place. You just grab it off the rack, buy it, and wear it… ready to wear. If you must get dangerous with your pumped up kicks this season, check out the Edge Menu at the Four Seasons in Denver. Get crafty with a steak knife and black pumps, and your good to go. It will be your very own slice of runway.

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LE BALOON ROUGE Inspired by the movie The Red Balloon Photographer Brandon Sanchez Model/HMUA Anastasia Novikova Clothing found at various thift stores

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Photographer: Gary Woods Model: Frank Fontaine Designer: The Freak Show

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