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Summer Itineraries 7 NEW EXPERIENCES TO TRY NOW
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You don’t have to pedal the world to be a discoverer. Or be the first international female sports star, like Annie Londonderry, a mother from Boston who cycled around the world in 1895. You just have to explore Discovery West. Nestled in Bend’s Westside, this new community is at the heart of beauty, nature, and lifestyle that makes Bend, well, Bend. Visit discoverywestbend.com to learn about the neighborhood, Annie herself – and how you could even find your new home on Londonderry Place. Or head on over to our Discovery Pod, open daily, at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane and do your own exploring.
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Tiny bioluminescent phytoplankton light up vast stretches of the Pacific in a dazzling display near Fort Stevens State Park.
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Sea Full of Stars photography by Steven Smith/Solution 7 Media The Pacific Ocean aglow off the Oregon Coast— one of the most elusive and wondrous natural occurrences, can’t help but stir the curiosity of anyone fortunate enough to witness it. An adventure reveling in the spectacle as well as the science of bioluminescence shines a light on this glittering, fascinating nighttime thriller. (pg. 80)
JULY | AUGUST 2021
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Erica Swantek
FEATURES JULY | AUGUST 2021 • volume 69
58 Seven New Summer Experiences Seize the summer with seven adventures designed to push boundaries, restore joy and play until your heart’s content. This is the time we were dreaming of last year, and our curated fun will help you make it the best. written by Kelsey Swenson
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The Art of Wellness
Monolithic Marvels
As research and new technology continue to show how the arts influence wellness, Oregon healthcare providers and artists are embracing ways to make a difference in people’s lives.
Renew your appreciation of the coast’s monoliths when you hit the road this summer. These giant rock pillars punctuate the length of our state’s Pacific shoreline, creating a stellar skyline. Let this gallery guide you in discovering more of them.
written by Cathy Carroll
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Riding at Wine Down Ranch, where you can unwind in the valley of the Ochoco National Forest.
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DEPARTMENTS JULY | AUGUST 2021 • volume 69
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
Lavender and music festivals, sweet camping trailers, fossils at the coast and infusing flowers into inventive cocktails.
22 FOOD + DRINK
26
Beer bikepacking to hoppy destinations. A cocktail recipe evokes a trail adventure. Discover Japanese-inspired dishes with local ingredients at an innovative outdoor space. Peruse art while savoring an Elvis waffle at this waffle cart turned coffee shop.
28 FARM TO TABLE
An elementary school teacher goes back to her blackberry farming roots. Our freshest picks for the best blackberry recipes. A chef reminisces about his family’s bakery beginnings—and falling into a tub of sweet blackberry filling.
36 HOME + DESIGN
Delve into the design of an 8-foot deep koi fish pond anchoring this Japanese courtyard vision. Gaze beyond the edge of an infinity pool facing Mount Hood. Learn how to make your own water garden and peruse the best backyard grills.
42 MIND + BODY
Aromatherapy is gaining in popularity at home and in healthcare settings, with Oregonians embracing its wellness effects.
44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
In an industry driven by stardom, this actor, producer and Emmy-winning director relies on collaboration as her superpower, something she’s modeled for hundreds of students who’ve come through her Portland studio for the past two decades.
THINK 48 STARTUP
Ben Franklin’s key on a kite string comes full circle with this new wind-power technology.
50 WHAT’S GOING UP
Food halls from Bend to Beaverton are diversifying the dining landscape.
52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
The new executive director of the Deschutes River Conservancy reveals the secret to mediating the water divide among farmers, irrigators and recreators.
54 MY WORKSPACE Nate Wyeth
This metal sculptor began with an old welder and junkyard scraps in a garage in Bend. Now her works sell around the world.
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Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
56 GAME CHANGER
A thriving kombucha brand partners with a Portland-based Black farmers promoting sustainable environmental, social, cultural and economic impacts.
EXPLORE 78 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Private tastings and access to vineyards and winemakers adds depth to e-bike tours with local guides on Hood River’s tastiest and most scenic backroads.
80 ADVENTURE
When you see the ocean and beach aglow with azure light, you’ll be experiencing one of the most beautiful and fascinating natural phenomena on the coast.
84 LODGING
After a day of crabbing and clamming along secluded shores, retreat to this intimate property designed by a surfer-architect in a tiny town with big rewards.
86 TRIP PLANNER
COVER
photo by Jen Jones (see “Seven Summer Itineraries for New Experiences,” pg. 58)
A three-day itinerary for best beach fun—dune-ing to dining—in an ideal spot for kids and adults.
92 NW DESTINATION
Reap these rewards adventuring in Montana’s Bitterroot Valley, and leaving will be bittersweet.
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CONTRIBUTORS
AMY BOWDEN Writer Adventure I’m lucky enough to call the Oregon Coast home, where I love teaching and writing books about sustainable living—when I’m not hiking, surfing, beachcombing, or gazing into tidepools. Each summer, I explore the rugged coastline at night in search of bioluminescent seas, a bucket-list worthy natural phenomenon. I was excited to share tips for seeking out the “glitter of the sea” so readers can experience one of Oregon’s true wonders. (pg. 80)
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KELSEY SWENSON Writer Seven Summer Itineraries for New Experiences If there’s one thing I love, it’s jumping into something new. While growing up in Bend, I tried nearly every sport and developed an appreciation for the sweet scent of ponderosa pines and adventuring on the trails. That’s perfect for writing about seven new experiences to try across Oregon this summer. I discovered so many fun, exciting offerings from passionate Oregonians that I feel the itch to go on an epic trip to support them all. (pg. 58)
JULY | AUGUST 2021
MACKENZIE MELENDY Illustrator Home + Design
DANIEL STARK Photographer Farm to Table
As a gardener and artist who pulls so much inspiration from the natural world, this illustration involved two of my own personal joys—exploring aesthetic rules and bringing them to harmonious conclusion, and creating beautiful plant arrangements. It was pretty cool to traverse these two passions simultaneously, and in my experience, that confluence always makes for the best end product. I hope it inspires the reader to design their own pond and explore their creative connection to nature. (pg. 40)
Photographing the Duyck Family Farm was like being in a postcard. Between the beautiful farmlands and Mount Hood in the distance, it was almost too much to take in. Jacque and her dad treated me like family. From taking me on a tractor ride through the blackberry groves to sharing stories of growing up on the farm, I felt right at home. After a difficult year for so many of us, including local farmers, I was grateful for the opportunity to connect with such kind and generous people. This assignment was a pleasure to photograph, and I’m honored to play a small role in preserving their family legacy through these images. (pg. 28)
MENS • WOMENS • CLOTHING • SHOES • TEXTILES
EDITOR-AT-LARGE Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
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OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
HOMEGROWN CHEF BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Aaron Opsahl Elijah Aikens Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Thor Erickson Beau Eastes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Amy Bowden, Melissa Dalton, Beau Eastes, Sophia McDonald, Jenna McKenna, Daniel Murphy, Charles Rigby, Ben Salmon, Lauren Sharp, Jen Stevenson, Kelsey Swenson, Mary Grace Ward
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Alyson Brown, Jen Jones, Tambi Lane, Mark Mularz, Brandon Nixon, Steven Smith, Daniel Stark, Erica Swantek, Nate Wyeth
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Mackenzie Melendy
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FROM THE
EDITOR-AT-LARGE HEALING AND WELLNESS come in many forms in this issue of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine. Beginning with “The Art of Wellness” (pg. 64), we look at the connection between art, music and health. In this feature Cathy Carroll finds an interesting advance in medicine—art. Oregon’s largest health systems are documenting through brain scans and other metrics the salutary effects of music and art, which are becoming more tangible in patients’ health every day. Another cure for many ailments is the great outdoors. In “Seven Summer Itineraries” on pg. 58, we prescribe many recreational pillars for the affliction—kiteboarding on the Columbia River, adult surf camps at Oswald State Park, yoga retreats in the Willamette Valley and experiencing life on a working ranch in the Oregon Outback. The accumulating mental cobwebs clear when you head to the Oregon Coast. Our Trip Planner on pg. 86 takes us back to Pacific City,
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where surfing, beachcombing and crabbing are de rigueur for families getting back to normal and the sublime. Our Gallery (pg. 70) plies the entire 360-mile Oregon Coast in search of the most stunning monoliths. Yes, Pacific City’s Haystack Rock is one, but just one of so many awe-inspiring sedentary sea monsters. Healing comes in many forms, including getting Lost in the Woods, our Cocktail Card cocktail (pg. 24) from Alyson Brown of Wild Folk Flower Apothecary in Bend and the only drink we’ve ever recommended with kumquats. My dad often told me that single-crusted pie was for people who didn’t know better. Our Homegrown Chef knows better. Turn to Thor Erickson’s double-crusted blackberry pie on pg. 34 and feel the curative powers of fruit and butter. Finally, here’s to Brew Dr. for turning its annual giving campaign toward two small BIPOC farms in Oregon. No step in the direction of social equity is a wasted one.
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A NEW WAY TO SHOP Stop by Local, our new curated online shop of cool goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find home décor, jewelry, specialty foods and more. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop
HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard photo by Evan West The Oregon capitol building in Salem.
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NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 36 MIND + BODY 42
pg. 34 Call my blackberry and give me a luscious pie recipe ripe for summer.
Tambi Lane
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44
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Tidbits + To-dos written by Kelsey Swenson
Coastline Exhibit Cruise over to the Oregon Coast Aquarium’s new exhibit “Cruisin’ the Fossil Coastline,” where you’ll encounter models of prehistoric creatures and authentic fossils. The exhibit comes from Kirk Johnson, director of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, and Alaska artist Ray Troll, who explored 10,000 miles of coastline, discovering fossils from when Oregon was covered in sea and volcanoes. Gain perspective on your stature amid tiny fossils and extinct wonders including the horned pachyrhinosaurus.
Timberline Vodka Timberline Vodka puts the Northwest in your glass with its new vodka, distilled with fourteen varieties of regional apples and the glacier-fed waters of Mount Hood. Sip it trailside or at the downtown Hood River tasting room, inside an old bank with a retro lounge tucked inside the vault. Savor the sweet and mineral balance so clean you’ll think your toes are in a stream. It won double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition this year. www.hrdspirits.com
www.aquarium.org
Teardrops NW The excitement meter for summer camping just jumped a notch. Sleek, maneuverable off-road trailers from Salembased Teardrops NW offer ingeniously designed kitchen amenities, from cabinets to counter space, without the bulk—just flip up the back hatch and start flipping burgers, flapjacks or a panseared rainbow trout reeled in that afternoon from the lake. Rent or design your own for cozy and delicious nights beneath the towering pines. www.teardropsnw.com
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Live classical music is back at Chamber Northwest’s 2021 Summer Festival. Worldclass musicians hit the stage at Reed College in Portland through July 25. They include the Dover and Brentano string quartets, cellist Paul Watkins of the Emerson Quartet, the East Coast Chamber Orchestra, saxophonist Branford Marsalis, guitarist Jason Vieaux, and bass-baritone Davóne Tines Classics such as Aaron Copland’s Appalachian Spring will be performed as well as five exciting world premieres.
It’s no surprise that the company that lets your beer match your favorite puffy jacket is based in Bend. Puffin’s beverage insulators let you leave the cooler at home with stylized, two-layer insulation for your bottle of wine or canned beverage. Hit the trails with your drink by clipping it to your bag and the insulation will protect it as you hike, ski or play. Store the corkscrew in a hidden pocket and pop the cork at the summit.
www.cmnw.org
CA mark LE yo ND ur AR
Newberg and Applegate Lavender Celebrations Throughout July, Lavender bursts onto Oregon fields, rivalling those of Provence, France. In Newberg, pick the fragrant, purple-flowered herb, wander through a lavender maze at Wayward Farms, nibble lavender-rosemary scones from Coffee Cottage and settle in at Chehalem Ridge Bed and Breakfast. The Willamette Valley Lavender Festival and Plein Air Art Show is July 10 and 11 and July 16 through 18. At The English Lavender Farm in Applegate, celebrations happen weekends throughout July.
www.puffincoolers.com
www.tastenewberg.com/blog/the-lavender-days-of-summer-in-newberg-oregon www.englishlavenderfarm.com
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From left, Nevada Sowle, Cooper Trail and Olaf Ydstie’s journey explores several genres.
Listen on Spotify
Musician
Living on the Edge
Cooper Trail’s Desolation Horse makes music for the wandering and aimless written by Ben Salmon COOPER TRAIL sounds like a lovely hike across a verdant forest or a mountain range, and … well, it might be. But it’s also the name of a singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist originally from Idaho whose band, Desolation Horse, recorded one of 2020’s best albums on opposite ends of Oregon—at a friend’s house in Astoria and at the historic O.K. Theater in downtown Enterprise. Before all that, though, Trail had what he called “a solo project with jutting edges” called Mise, which released three albums and toured around, playing shows for people. Mise started when Trail was in high school, and when he listens to those recordings now, he feels “somewhat embarrassed” by them, but reminds himself that they are warts-and-all documents of his embryonic musical self. “I am probably just jealous of young people who make classic recordings right out of the gate,” he said. “For me, that end will be a lifelong pursuit.” 18
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That may be true, but it doesn’t change the fact that Desolation Horse’s debut is destined to be a classic in its own right. Recorded in late 2018, Trail, a professional session musician, was too busy touring with other bands to focus on turning his rough mixes into something ready for public consumption. So they “bounced around on a secret Soundcloud playlist,” he said, eventually reaching the ears of Sean Jewell at Seattle-based American Standard Time Records. “He was really the catalyst for the first Desolation Horse (album) being released,” Trail said. Thank goodness for that. At just eight tracks long, Desolation Horse is as unassuming as it is consistently engaging, with classic indie rock, folksy twang, skewed blues, throwback pop and even the occasional mesmerizing motorik groove underpinning Trail’s easygoing exploration of who he is and where he’s headed. It’s a perspective he believes will look familiar to most people who give his music a spin. “Folks these days identify with feeling lost, with feeling lonely in a crowded world,” Trail said. “These songs speak to that, and though they don’t provide answers, I think people simply want to hear and know that someone else feels that way too: wandering, aimless and living on the edge of confusion and contentedness.”
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At the Sustainable Agriculture and Energy Center, our mission is hands-on learning Center and education through fun and interactive multi-media exhibits. Watch a potato turn into curly fries. Try your hand at milking a cow or driving a tractor. Browse our gift shop and finish your visit with a serving of delicious Tillamook ice cream!
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Bibliophile
Flower Folk Mixologist brings flavors of flower buds to taste buds in flower-infused cocktails interview by Cathy Carroll
ALYSON BROWN’S LONGTIME love affair with flowers fully blossomed in 2017 when she founded Wild Folk Flower Apothecary botanical skincare in Bend. She began infusing flowers into her tea, baths, food and, of course, cocktails. She self-published The Flower-Infused Cocktail available at www.theflowerinfusedcocktail.com, just in time for summer. Tell us about your start in using never considered including them flowers in mixology. in a cocktail until diving into flavor I began posting flower-infused cockprofiles. One of those is amaranth. tails on my Instagram feed and soon A staple grain for many historic civiI was asked to mix and serve my lizations, yet who knew that it could drinks at social events, private parbe puffed and made into a nutty ties, and community gatherand earthy-tasting simple ings. I included flowers in syrup? It’s delicious. every drink I made, whether it was simple syrups, a base How do you research spirit-infusion or simply a which flowers to use? Do garnish. you forage? When first beginning my I started planning the book journey with flowers, it was with a spreadsheet that the symbolism and history listed all the edible flowALSO IN THIS ISSUE behind the flowers that reers I could use, how I’d use Craft your own flower-infused ally intrigued me. One of my them, their flavor profile, Lost in the Woods very favorite things about and spirit pairing. I had cocktail on pg. 24. the book is the inclusion of close to eighty flowers folklore for each flower represented. on the spreadsheet but settled on sixty-three to feature in the book. In compiling recipes for the book, Sometimes it was the flavor of the did you encounter any surprising flower that determined the drink, flavors or discoveries? What is and other times it was the history the most unusual flavor, flower or or symbolism behind the flower. plant in your drinks? I do forage! A few flowers in the I was genuinely surprised about book may only be accessible via some of the flowers that are edforaging. I always recommend when ible—gladiolus and freesia to name foraging, to do so with intention. a few. Others I knew were edible but Never take more than you need, 20
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Alyson Brown lets readers drink in her love of flower folklore.
never pick an area clean, and leave a few behind to attract pollinators. Which flowers make good mocktails? Do any have special properties? I love a good mocktail, and have a section in the book with zero-proof drinks, though many cocktails can definitely work as mocktails. I like to sub the base spirit with either a non-alcoholic alternative such as tea, kombucha or seltzer. A few cocktails in the book utilize the properties of flowers. Chamomile is possibly one of the best-known flowers for lulling one to sleep, so I added it to the Chamomile Toddy, a classic nightcap. Borage has been rumored to have a cooling effect in drinks. Before the invention of ice, it was used in a cooling drink called a claret cup, which consisted of water, lemon, sugar, borage flowers and wine. Knowing this, I added borage flowers to the Nepenthean Fizz, a riff on one of my favorite summer sippers, to bring on the chill for balmy summer evenings.
“When first beginning my journey with flowers, it was the symbolism and history behind the flowers that really intrigued me. One of my very favorite things about the book is the inclusion of folklore for each flower represented.” — Alyson Brown
Alyson Brown
From left, Alyson Brown cocktail creations: the Perfect Pear Spritz, Hazy Days and Bramble On.
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food + drink
FROM LEFT Forested roads between Bend and Sisters are ideal for bikepacking to Suttle Lake, the setting for an eponymous Three Creeks Suttle Haze IPA. Staggering views from Black Butte should be celebrated with a cold can of Black Butte Porter.
Beerlandia
Beer-Powered Adventures written by Beau Eastes
IF YOU’RE READING this column I’m probably preaching to the choir, but I’m continually fascinated by how great beers can inspire—dinner parties based on beer pairings, brewpub running clubs, hikes to forage for fresh ingredients. And of course my favorite, beer tripping. This concept born of years of research at institutions such as O’Brien’s in Portland, Max’s in Eugene, The Rainbow Cafe in Pendleton and Cascade West in Bend, beer tripping involves your favorite beer and making an adventure out of its name. Here’s a few of my favorite beer tripping adventures: HIKING BLACK BUTTE One of the first hikes I wanted to do when I moved to Central Oregon nearly fifteen years ago was Black Butte, and that was 100 percent proof of my affinity for Deschutes Brewery’s iconic porter. Not quite 4 miles out and back, the hike up Black Butte is a steady climb of about 1,500 feet to the summit. This trek is all about the payoff—staggering views of the Three Sisters, Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood and as far as Mount St. Helens. With Black Butte Porter now in cans, a Black Butte on top of Black Butte is a doubly satisfying way to celebrate your climb.
OLD TOWN BREWING TO HOPWORKS BIKE RIDE Bikes and beers, what’s not to love? One of my favorite things to do in Portland is to explore the city’s neighborhoods on my trusty commuter bike and pop into some of my favorite breweries. On one of my last trips to town, I started my ride with a Shanghai’d IPA lunch beer at the criminally underrated
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Nate Wyeth
food + drink
Old Town Brewing in the city’s Old Town Chinatown neighborhood, home to the legendary Shanghai tunnels, before meandering across the Steel Bridge to pedal through the southeast neighborhoods. Hair of the Dog, Wayfinder, Cascade’s Barrel House, Southeast Portland is loaded with top-shelf breweries worth creating a beer tripping itinerary of its own. I ended with a Bomber Burger and Powell Cryo IPA at Hopworks’ original location on SE Powell. Bonus if you can find a can of Ascendant Beer Company’s Steelbridge Stout sip in its native habitat.
BEER BIKEPACKING AT SUTTLE LAKE On a recent bikepacking trip with buddies, our goal was pretty simple. Bike from our homes in Bend and have a Three Creeks Suttle Haze IPA at Suttle Lake with lots of exploring in between. Mission accomplished. Number one, the old forest roads between Bend and Suttle Lake are ideal for bikepacking and gravel adventures. And two, Suttle Lake and the Suttle Lake Lodge make for an excellent destination for a quick bike adventure out of Bend. We brought the hazy IPAs and enjoyed them by the lake before destroying a plate of poutine at the lodge’s Skip Bar. Staying in the spirit of the beer tripping theme, we also brought along cans of Boneyard’s Hop-A-Wheelie pale ale, camp beers the night before we reached Suttle Lake, although we nearly ended the trip early after trying to do wheelies on our fully loaded gravel bikes.
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food + drink
Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Alyson Brown of Wild Folk Flower Apothecary, Bend
Lost in the Woods • 1½ ounce fir-infused Cascade Street Potato Vodka • ½ ounce green chartreuse • 1 ounce fresh green juice (see recipe below) • ½ ounce simple syrup of the Oregon grape flower
• 3 kumquats • 3 dashes anise bitters FOR THE OREGON GRAPE FLOWER SIMPLE SYRUP • 1 cup water • 1 cup sugar • ¼ cup of Oregon grape flowers* • Zest from 1 lemon
FOR OREGON GRAPE FLOWER SIMPLE SYRUP Combine water and sugar in a small pot, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Once the sugar has dissolved completely and the syrup has slightly thickened, remove from heat and stir in the Oregon grape flowers and lemon zest. Steep for 15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before straining the solids, reserving the syrup. Cool completely before using. Store in the refrigerator for 1 week. *If Oregon grape flowers aren’t available, substitute with elderflower or calendula. FOR THE GREEN JUICE Any combination of your favorite green fruits and vegetables can be used here, such as green apple, spinach, celery, lime and pineapple. Together, they work really well in any cocktail. If you don’t have a juicer, you can blend them together with a little water and strain through a cheesecloth.
Edible flower safety: When eating something new and out of the ordinary, eat in moderation, and be aware of allergens or contradictions. Know poisonous lookalikes. Do additional research as needed. If in doubt, do not eat.
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Alyson Brown
FOR COCKTAIL Lightly muddle the kumquats, releasing their juice. Add vodka, chartreuse, green juice and simple syrup to the shaker, and shake over ice until chilled. Pour over crushed ice and dash with bitters. Garnish with kumquats, Oregon grape flowers and pineapple leaves.
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CRAVINGS: COFFEE
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Grab a drink and stay awhile at Takibi, inspired by traditional Japanese izakaya, which translates as “stay-drink-place.”
Gastronomy
Takibi
1415 NW 11TH AVE. PORTLAND www.instagram.com/snowbunnycoffee
written by Lauren Sharp OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS and foodies can rejoice with the opening of Portland’s Takibi. It’s a collaboration between Submarine Hospitality, known for acclaimed Portland restaurants Tusk and Ava Gene’s, and Snow Peak, a Japanese outdoor apparel and lifestyle products retailer. “We like to consider ourselves the foodiest brand in the outdoor industry,” said Matt Liddle, Snow Peak’s chief operating officer. “Most of Snow Peak’s products are food related, as we’re well known for our top-of-the-line camp cookware, tableware, and grills. We see it as an extension of our mission to bring out outdoor values into the dining room, giving friends a gathering place to reconnect.” Founded in 1958 by Yukio Yamai in the Niigata Prefecture of Japan, Snow Peak has strived to create heirloom quality mountaineering and camping gear. In 1980, the founder’s son, Tohru Yamai, took the helm as CEO. He jumped at the opportunity to reach a larger outdoor audience by expanding their selection of car camping equipment, which is intended to foster outdoor gatherings and meals. Located adjacent to the Snow Peak retail flagship on NW 23rd Avenue, Takibi serves Japanese inspired dishes and craft cocktails in its indoor dining room, but it’s the outdoor space that embodies the overarching concept of “Dwelling Outside, Together,” informed by Portland design innovators Skylab Architecture. In the spirit of an izakaya, executive chef Alex Kim created a bar, midday and dinner menu of rotating, “seriously seasonal” small plates, sourcing produce, meats and other ingredients exclusively from local producers and farms. This is exemplified in the grilled whitemiso black cod with Pacific Northwest mushrooms and signature Snow Peak vegan gratin with in-season vegetables. James Beard award winning mixologist Jim Meehan designed a bar program that also spotlights both local purveyors and Japanese ingredients for wholly original offerings. You won’t want to skip out on the Tanigawa, served in a Snow Peak titanium camp mug of hand-shaved ice steeped with Westward American Single Malt Whiskey, St. George Spirits Umeshu, McCarthy’s Oregon Single Malt Whiskey and shiso. Guests can peruse Snow Peak cookware, dining ware and camp furniture in the restaurant space. As dining capacity regulations increase, Kim is also planning to host campfire cooking classes focused on outdoor food prep techniques.
LONE PINE COFFEE ROASTERS Happily settled into its roomy new digs in downtown Bend, this busy coffeehouse and community hub caffeinates a steady stream of fleece-wrapped Central Oregonians coming on and off the Deschutes River and forest trails. Pop in on a whim, or order online and pick up a sweet Vermont maple syrup-spiked latte or creamy hot chocolate, along with a couple of rich, yeasty housemade Liège waffles studded with crunchy caramelized pearl sugar, and perhaps a few fresh pastries from local legends Sparrow Bakery and Foxtail Bakeshop. 910 NW HARRIMAN ST. BEND www.lonepinecoffeeroasters.com
COFFEE OR WAFFLE Fans of Joshua Jensen’s yolk-yellow Astoria waffle cart were thrilled to see him set up shop last fall inside an art gallery. Study the coffee and waffle menus a bit before choosing your ideal pairing— perhaps the peanut-butter chip, fresh banana, honey-topped Elvis waffle with a classic latte, or sweet and savory maple bacon with hemp milk chai, or maybe a whipped cream-crowned Nutella Madness with creamy, chocolatey mocha. 385 11TH ST. ASTORIA www.instagram.com/coffee_or_waffle
2275 NW FLANDERS ST. PORTLAND www.takibipdx.com
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Popular for their fluffy fruit-heaped Korean-style shave milk ice and unusual tea and coffee drinks, this bright and cheerful little Pearl District coffee shop makes for a cozy rest stop, especially after a misty spring morning ramble around neighboring Fields Park. Get your sips and snacks to go, or bundle up, sit outside with a cappuccino and a light and crispy golden waffle stuffed with warm apple jam and fresh whipped cream, and watch the locals parade their furry friends past en route to the dog park.
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BEST PLACES FOR
BRUNCH ALFRESCO The nuanced flavors of Smith Tea, infused with the creativity of acclaimed chef Karl Holl, come together at their latest concoction, a tea café. Holl uses fresh ingredients from his own farm for the menu of this plant-based eatery in which he leverages the flavor profiles of Smith’s exotic and high-quality teas. The chef’s passions inform each item, such as the garden sandwich with beets roasted in fragrant jasmine tea. The quinoa of the signature Smith Bowl is cooked with sencha green tea from Japan, and floral white petal tea infuses the sheep’s milk cheese on the rainbow carrot and barley salad, all to a palate’s delight. 500 NW 23RD AVE. PORTLAND www.smithtea.com
DOWNTOWN MARKET CO.
Mariah Pisha-Duffly
SMITH TEAMAKER
Oma’s satisfies, from apple tamarind-glazed pork ribs to lemongrass slushies or a soft shell crab sando (pictured above).
Dining
Oma’s Hideaway written by Jen Stevenson
A much-loved morning pillar of the Manzanita community is Joanne Perkins and Connie Calcagno’s bright and bustling little café. Opt for a three-egg scramble with a homemade buttermilk biscuit or oat molasses toast, creamy cheddar grits piled with garlicky shrimp, andouille sausage and seasonal greens, or sate your sweet tooth with marionberry-topped lemon ricotta pancakes. If you must try all of the above, schedule an after-breakfast beach walk.
IT WAS BORN of a takeout-focused pop-up pivot designed to carry Hollywood District hotspot Gado Gado through the darkest days of the pandemic shutdown, but then proved too popular to scuttle when the restaurant reopened. This bright and cheery Division Street gem is just the place to spend a summer evening with a jackfruit daiquiri. Taking over the former Whiskey Soda Lounge space, Chef Thomas Pisha-Duffly and Mariah Pisha-Duffly’s second venture is an homage to Thomas’s beloved late oma or grandmother, Kiong Tien Vandenberg, with the hearty belly-warming and spirits-lifting Southeast Asian comfort food to match. The menu showcases Pisha-Duffly’s creativity via intensely flavorful dishes such as sweet-chili soy-soaked corn fritters, Chinese sausage- and shrimp-studded char kway teow noodle stir-fry and several satisfying variations of nasi lemak, Malaysia’s national dish—try the golden, crispy fried chicken with creamy yellow curry and fried curry leaves, signature coconut rice, boiled egg with sambal chili sauce, green beans, tiny fried anchovies, peanuts, bread and butter turmeric pickles and garlicky krupuk prawn crackers. It’s playfully plated on a guava-pink cafeteria tray (or tucked into a peanut-sauce brown takeaway box). Come dessert time, it would take a hard- or mightily disciplined heart to resist their Rice Crispy treat, a whimsically chewy mix of Fruity Pebbles cereal, marshmallow, lemongrass, lime leaves and a generous smattering of rainbow sprinkles. Mariah Pisha-Duffly’s mocktails get just as much respect as their excellent booze-infused counterparts here. Sip a refreshing cucumber-cilantro limeade or tamarind-pineapple soda, or bliss out with a cucumber-lime CBD soda. For those sticking to takeout, a seamless contact-free ordering and pick-up system is in place, and the heated and covered patio dining has bright oilcloth-draped picnic tables beneath kaleidoscopic chandeliers and strings of paper pineapples and twinkle lights, and when it’s chilly, B.Y.O. blanket. For more comfort, order the stuffed with sweet and sour eggplant and apple tamarind-glazed pork ribs, sip a second round of boozy bourbon, jasmine tea, and lemongrass slushies, and you’ll feel nurtured, just as oma would have wanted.
503 LANEDA AVE. MANZANITA www.yolkmanzanita.square.site
3131 SE DIVISION ST. PORTLAND omastakeaway.com
Set in an elegant, high-ceilinged brick building in downtown Medford, Nora LaBrocca and Brian Witter’s café and marketplace isn’t just a charming spot to pick up a bottle of wine or gourmet gift, it’s one of the most popular brunch destinations in town, so make a reservation for a table on the lovely bocce courtendowed back patio, preferably one near the fire pit. Sip a wild hibiscus or pear mimosa, and ponder whether you’re in the mood for savory French toast with crispy prosciutto and parmesan, poached eggs with fontina bechamel and Swiss gratin, or a stack of buttermilk pancakes drowned in blueberry syrup, fresh blueberries and lemon curd. 123 W. MAIN ST. MEDFORD www.downtownmarketco.com
YOLK
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farm to table
“Growing up, I would always tag along with my dad, whether it was just riding in a truck or hoeing or working with a cousin. I always knew I’d come back. I just didn’t know when or how.” — Jacque Duyck Jones, of Duyck Family Farm, on taking over the family business
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farm to table
Farm to Table
Back in Blackberries Delicious and fulfilling fruit of hard work on Duyck Family Farm
written by Sophia McDonald photography by Daniel Stark BLACKBERRIES REACH their peak in July, just in time for pie making, ice cream churning, jam jamborees, backyard cocktail mixing and gluttonous fresh eating. While they’re at their best straight from the vine, juices warm from the sun and staining your fingers, they also freeze well, something that makes this Oregon snack available year-round. In fact, the freezer is the first destination for the vast majority of Oregon blackberries. According to the Oregon Raspberry & Blackberry Commission, more than 90 percent of the blackberries grown in the state are frozen within 24 hours of being picked. The frosty fruit goes into bags for consumers and food manufacturers, who use the fruit to add a kiss of Oregon sweetness to their products. More than 200 family farms—many of them multigenerational family properties, nearly all of them in the Willamette Valley—produce these black and blue treasures. One is Jacque Duyck Jones with Duyck Family Farm in Banks. Jones started her career as an elementary school teacher, where she adored teaching kids to read and looked forward to welcoming a new “crop” of students every year. But when her father was ready to retire, she didn’t hesitate to change directions and become the fourth-generation proprietor of the family business. “Growing up, I would always tag along with my dad, whether it was just riding in a truck or hoeing or working with a cousin,” she said. “I always knew I’d come back. I just didn’t know when or how.” For her, farming has always been more than a job. It’s a culture and a way of life. She also sees it as an opportunity to continue to be a role model for young women—in this case, demonstrating that running a farm can be a fulfilling way to make a living. Duyck Family Farm produces multiple crops on its 400 acres, including wheat and grass seed. But Jones said blackberries, which cover about 50 acres, have AT LEFT Blackberries cover about 50 acres at Duyck Family Farm in Banks. The farm grows the Kotata variety.
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farm to table
Jacque Duyck Jones and her father, Larry Duyck.
always been her favorite things to grow. “I think it’s so cool how the canes produce fruit once, so right now the canes are growing for next year’s fruit,” she said. Jones doesn’t discount the delicious factor either. “When they’re ripe in the summer, sometimes I’ll have my girlfriends over and we’ll just go out into the fields at my farmhouse and pick them like crazy,” she said. She likes to blend them into smoothies and use them in desserts like pies and homemade blackberry fudge. Marion blackberries, also known as marionberries, are the most commonly grown variety in Oregon. But Jones grows a blackberry known as Kotata instead. “In the late ’80s and early ’90s, other varieties like marionberries were freezing (on the canes),” she said. “Kotatas are much more hardy. They’re 30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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medium to large size, and when they’re picked at their peak, they’re very sweet.” They’re also firm, making it easier to harvest them by machine (a real plus given ongoing labor shortages). When the berries begin to ripen, Jones collects them with two mechanical harvesters. The machines straddle the rows of blackberry canes and knock the berries from their fruit spurs into a flat with a series of shaker rods. The machine will pass through the berry fields six times to catch fruit that ripens at different times throughout the season. This work is done at night, when temperatures are cooler. Jones can watch the machines at work from her house or the cab of her swather while she’s windrowing grass seed under the stars. “July is the killer month,” she acknowledged. “But all
farm to table
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Mount Hood is the backdrop for blooming blackberry fields at Duyck Family Farm. Duyck Jones went from teaching elementary school to becoming the fourthgeneration proprietor of Duyck Family Farm. The 100-year-old Duyck family farmhouse.
farmers rise to the occasion. That’s the time when we need to get things done because that’s the month we earn our money and all of our work year long will hopefully pay off.” While machine-harvested blackberries can’t be sold fresh, they’re perfect for the frozen market, which Jones said is more predictable than farm stands and other fresh markets. “Farming is risky enough,” said Jones. In a world made uncertain by Mother Nature, increasing regulation and numerous other challenges, she said, any bit of stability is welcome. Berries bound for freezing are sent to firms such as the Willamette Valley Fruit Company in Salem. There, they’re chilled using a process called individually quick frozen (IQF) technology, which locks in the berries’ flavor and nutrients. “When I see them in the store, I know that our fruit is in those bags,” Jones
said. Extending the season for blackberry goodness is another sweet reward for her hard work. To allow the complex flavor of blackberries to shine through, it’s worth sticking to simple recipes when cooking with them. Anne Cuggino, chef at Q Restaurant & Bar in southwest Portland, likes to whip up a blackberry sauce to drizzle on ice cream, yogurt, pancakes or a lemon curd tart. “It’s a good recipe for improvisation,” she said. “Try infusing it with a fresh lavender sprig, cinnamon sticks, a favorite liquor or orange zest.” Imbibing blackberries is done deliciously with a blackberry mojito such as this one from Alex Dodd at Stormbreaker Brewing in Portland. After making a simple infused vodka (Dodd likes to use Wild Roots Vodka), mix up this cocktail and let the flavors of summer flow. JULY | AUGUST 2021
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Alex Dodd
farm to table
Oregon Recipes
Summer Berries with a Citrus Twist Blackberry Mojito
Stormbreaker Brewing / PORTLAND Alex Dodd YIELDS ONE COCKTAIL • 1 cup blackberries, washed and patted dry • 1½ cups vodka • 2 to 3 lime wedges, plus additional for garnish (optional) • 2 to 3 mint sprigs, plus additional for garnish (optional) • 1½ teaspoons simple syrup • 1½ teaspoons lime juice • Soda water FOR VODKA Add blackberries to a clean 1-quart canning jar, then fill the jar with vodka until all the fruit is covered. Seal the jar and allow the vodka to infuse for five days in a cool, dark space.
Use a fine mesh strainer to separate the vodka from any remaining fruit and seeds. Discard the fruit. Pour the vodka into a sealable glass jar and store it in the refrigerator. FOR COCKTAIL Muddle lime wedges, mint sprigs and simple syrup together with a couple ice cubes. Add 1½ ounces of blackberry-infused vodka and lime juice. Shake and pour (do not strain) into a chimney-style glass such as a highball glass, and top with soda water. Garnish with mint sprig and lime wedge if desired.
Blackberry Sauce
Q Restaurant & Bar / PORTLAND Anne Cuggino YIELDS ABOUT 2 CUPS • 1½ pints blackberries • ½ cup sugar • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice • 1½ teaspoon cornstarch • 1 tablespoon water • Pinch of salt
Stormbreaker Brewing’s blackberry mojito.
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Place the blackberries, sugar and lemon juice in a pot. Bring them to a simmer over medium-low heat,
stirring occasionally. Once the berries begin to break down, mix the cornstarch and water together in a small bowl. While stirring, add the slurry to the berries and mix gently to completely incorporate. Simmer just until thickened so as to not break up the berries completely.
Mount Angel Oktoberfest September 16-19, 2021
Tickets will go on sale in August.
The joy of being together again Bark Boys
Vaccination rates are up and Covid-19 cases are dropping in Oregon. Please be mindful that there may be a risk of being exposed to Covid-19 at Oktoberfest. If you choose to attend, you are accepting that risk.
www.oktoberfest.org 5 Garfield Street, Mount Angel, Oregon 97362
farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Pie Eyed
YIELDS ONE, 9-INCH PIE, SERVES EIGHT
written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane WHEN I WAS about three years old, my parents emptied their savings account and bought a small bakery. For the previous forty years, this bakery had earned a reputation for producing all kinds of cookies, pastries, cakes and pies. As part of the sale, before hanging up his apron and retiring, Ernie, the original owner, agreed to train my father how to operate the business. Although my dad had a bit of kitchen experience, when it came to baking, he was a newbie. Ernie prided himself on maintaining operating costs for the bakery. He bought flour, sugar and spices in large quantities, used bottled flavor extracts and premade fruit fillings packed in five-gallon buckets. With the exception of dairy products, none of the ingredients were perishable. With minimal storage, all of these items were stacked high and took up every last inch of space. Despite the change in ownership, regular customers continued to flock in the door and my dad worked day and night to stay ahead, baking loaves of bread and pastries in the morning, cookies and pies midday, cakes in the afternoon and prepping for the next day in the evening. I would often go to work with my parents so they could learn the trade and stay ahead. I napped on sacks of flour, snacked on day-old fruit danish and rode my tricycle across the flour-dusted floors. One day while my father was rolling out pie crusts for a special order, I entertained myself by climbing on the stack of flour sacks. I enjoyed the vantage point— farther above the ground than I’d ever been. Once my dad realized where I was and how high I had climbed, he came to help me get down. Before he could get to me, I slipped feet first onto one of the plastic, fivegallon buckets. The lid caved in instantly. I suddenly found myself up to my underwear in blackberry filling. This was the filling that was about to go into the pies. After a few curse words and a change of pants respectively, we were off to the produce market where dad bought fresh blackberries for the pies. I remember how wonderful they smelled as they baked and the dark juices that bubbled from beneath the golden crust as my father slid them out of the oven. The customers raved about the pies and celebrated the new bakery ownership. My father began using fresh ingredients from then on, and our bakery became a great success. I will take all the credit. 34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Double Crusted Blackberry Pie
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FOR THE CRUST • 12/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting • 1 tablespoon sugar • 1 teaspoon kosher salt • 8 ounces cold, unsalted butter, straight from the fridge • 4 ounces ice-cold tap water FOR THE FILLING • 2 quarts fresh Oregon blackberries (I like Marionberries) • 1 cup sugar • 1/3 cup cornstarch • 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract • 1 tablespoon cold butter FOR THE EGG WASH Separate yolks and whites from 2 eggs. Keep the yolks. Save the whites for tomorrow’s breakfast. FOR THE DOUGH Mix flour, sugar and salt together in a medium bowl. Cut butter into ½-inch cubes and toss with flour mixture to break up the pieces. With your fingertips, smash each cube flat—do not overwork the butter. Stir in water, then knead dough against the sides of the bowl until it comes together in a shaggy ball. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling. Cut the chilled dough into two equal pieces. Using as much flour as needed, roll one piece into a 14-inch circle. This size allows room to line the pie plate, with enough overhang to form a border. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate. The dough should be easy to handle and not sticky. Dust off
excess flour with a pastry brush, using it to nestle dough into the bottom of the pie pan. With scissors or kitchen shears, trim the edge, leaving 1 1/4 inches hanging over the edge all around. For a solid top crust, roll remaining dough as before. For a lattice-top pie, roll into a 9- by 15-inch rectangle and cut 1-inch lattice strips. Transfer to a baking sheet or parchment-lined cutting board. (The parchment will prevent the dough from absorbing any savory odors from the board.) Wrap both portions in plastic and refrigerate at least 2 hours and up to overnight. FOR THE FILLING Mix all the ingredients together gently. Place filling into pie shell and dot with pieces of butter the size of your thumb nail. ASSEMBLING THE PIE Lay the pastry lid on top and crimp the edges together. Brush all of the exposed crust with egg wash. Evenly sprinkle a dusting of sugar over the crust. Refrigerate the pie for 1 hour. BAKING THE PIE Preheat oven to 375. Bake for 20 minutes until the top begins to turn golden brown. Lower the oven to 350. Continue baking until the top crust is golden and berry juice is bubbling and slightly thick. This should take about 40 to 45 minutes. Keep in mind that all pies and ovens are different. Let the pie cool for several hours before serving with vanilla ice cream.
farm to table
Lemon lets the Oregon blackberries shine in this traditional pie.
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home + design
The courtyard’s greenery, protected by elevated walkways, stem from a love for traditional Japanese gardens.
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Photos: Mark Mularz
home + design
ABOVE This modern home in Ashland has a gate and fence inspired by a Japanese screen. Constructed of wood and powder-coated steel, it was built without nails, screws or glue.
By the Water’s Edge
Serene outdoor spaces with elegant water features transform two Oregon homes written by Melissa Dalton
Ashland: A tranquil courtyard replaces a driveway THIS MID-CENTURY home close to downtown Ashland sits on an enviable lot: it’s about two acres, complete with majestic, mature evergreens and views down to Lithia Park and across the valley. But when Jeff Mangin bought the property in 2014, the yard was not living up to its potential. “The house was interesting, the site was not,” said landscape architect Kerry KenCairn of KenCairn Landscape Architecture in Ashland, who worked with Mangin and locally based Solid Ground Landscape to change that. Mangin, who’s retired from the finance industry, picked the property for its privacy and proximity to the park, where he likes to hike. He started with a total gut on the house, keeping only the framing and part of the foundation. The garage was converted to a principal suite so it could be on the same level as the main living spaces. A detached garage was built 25 feet
away, which left an abandoned patch of driveway in a prime location by the house. This would become a new courtyard inspired by Mangin’s love for traditional Japanese gardens. In 2015, Mangin and family donated over a million dollars to the City of Ashland for an authentic Japanese Garden at Lithia Park, in memory of his late wife, Beatrice Marechal. Before that, he occasionally bought a Japanese maple at the nursery and visited Japanese Gardens up and down the coast. “I’ve definitely been to the gardens in Portland, San Francisco and Seattle,” said Mangin. “But I’ve never had the opportunity to have one of my own.” As KenCairn drafted plans to transform the old concrete driveway into a tranquil, Japanese-inspired courtyard, the first question was whether to make the koi pond more naturalistic or contemporary.
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Mark Mularz
Mark Mularz
home + design
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Built Photo
They settled on the latter, giving it a crisp limestone border to set off the surrounding plants. Five thousand gallons of water and a depth of 8 feet ensure the koi fish have plenty of places to hide, keeps the water temperature stable, and maintains protection from raccoons and swooping birds. A prominent block of honed limestone conceals the pond’s water source, and creates the soothing sound of cascading water. Elevated walkways and teak decks keep rogue footfall from stomping the greenery. A historic Japanese screen inspired KenCairn’s design for the fence and gate. Handcrafted from wood and powder-coated steel and using mortise and tenon joinery, he attached the wood without nails, screws or glue. “It was like a puzzle,” said KenCairn. The rear of the property needed equal attention. A steep slope made it difficult to traverse the whole site and access an existing outbuilding. Solid Ground Landscape terraced the slope and interlaced new bluestone walkways, while KenCairn planted large Japanese maples in the surrounding forest to seamlessly knit front and back together. “I always said that I wanted a house that brings the outdoors in and all feels connected as one,” said Mangin. “And now this house really does that from almost all angles.”
Built Photo
ABOVE, FROM TOP The earth-toned stones on terraced slopes switch back down the backyard onto a bluestone patio. Water falls from a limestone outcropping into a 5,000-gallon koi pond where fish can flaunt their vibrant colors in the deep blue or find niches in which to hide.
home + design
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP This infinity pool is positioned to reflect bright clouds passing over this Lake Oswego home on their way to Mount Hood. Two sets of wide La Cantina doors let the kitchen open out onto a spacious portico. The skyline is unimpeded by the open railing on the ipe wood deck.
Built Photo
Lake Oswego: A historic home adopts indoor-outdoor life—and far-flung views Not many pre-World War II houses can embrace the modern love for indoor-outdoor living, but this Lake Oswego charmer built in 1925 had potential, as it’s perched to offer views of Oswego Lake, the Stafford hills and Mount Hood. In 2016, Kristen Aghdaei and her husband were planning to return stateside with their family after a few years abroad in Germany, and Aghdaei had her eye on the house from 5,000 miles away. As soon as they could, they paid a visit to the house. “It did not disappoint,” said Aghdaei. “We went through the house quickly and stood quietly on the back deck, just taking it in. We knew within minutes this was the place we were coming home to.” After purchase, they reached out to Lane Cooper, founder and president of the Portland-based Cooper Design Build, to streamline several interior elements and upgrade mechanicals. Then it was time to address the backyard. Having lived in California and experienced the Loma Prieta, a 1989 earthquake that had a magnitude of 6.9, Aghdaei and her husband wanted to take care of the steep drop-offs on both sides of the house. To that end, Cooper’s firm worked with PLI Systems in Hillsboro to install seismic retaining walls and shore up the hillside. Then the team dropped twenty pin pilings to anchor the addition of a sleek lap pool and hot tub. The pool’s infinity edge draws the eye out to the views, and serves a few sensory purposes. “We matched it up with the skyline, so there’s this beautiful reflection of all the clouds in the sky,” said Cooper. “And when you swim up and sit on that edge and look out, there’s the peripheral noise from the waterfall.” A gravel pad off the kitchen received a portico, which was designed and built to match the proportions and style of the existing portico over the outdoor living room. A grill station and dining set were tucked underneath the new structure for weather protection and unimpeded access to the indoor kitchen. “It was important to be able to connect the barbecue to the kitchen, so they could flow in and out very easily and extend their living space,” said Cooper. Two sets of ten-foot-wide, folding La Cantina doors facilitate that, with one replacing a picture window in the living room and one going in at the kitchen. The firm then rebuilt the old decks and tied in new decks using beautiful, hardy ipe wood, and surrounded the perimeter with a slim metal railing that doesn’t block sightlines. Since completing the project in 2018, Aghdaei and her family have espoused the indoor-outdoor flow at their home no matter the season, whether watching storms roll in to the ridge or taking a dip in the pool on a hot summer day. “We live outside on the deck as much as we can,” said Aghdaei. “This is our Xanadu.” JULY | AUGUST 2021
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home + design
DIY: Design a Container Water Garden illustration by Mackenzie Melendy
A CONTAINER WATER GARDEN, also known as a patio pond or “pond in a pot,” is much lower maintenance than an in-ground pond. The formula here is simple: container + water + aquatic plants = container water garden. PICK A CONTAINER Start with a water-tight pot that’s big enough to hold the chosen plants. A wood vessel won’t work unless lined with a plastic tub, so look for ceramic, metal, plastic, or sealed cement. Or, get creative and repurpose something, like a vintage pail or crock. PLACEMENT Make the water garden a focal point among the plants in an existing garden bed, or tuck it into the landscape to create a sense of discovery as people walk around. It will also work well on a small patio or balcony. Beware of plopping it where there’s super-hot afternoon sun, as that may be too intense for the plants, depending on what varieties are chosen. PLANTS Select water plants that will suit the light conditions, size and water depth of the container. Keep them in their nursery pots, as they’ll have the soil composition 40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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that they need there. Set plants directly in the container, before filling with water. Aquatic plant varieties may include ones that float on the surface of the water, such as water lettuce. Submerged oxygenators, such as certain grasses, grow beneath the surface and release oxygen into the water. If the container is tall enough, add a deep-water plant like the popular water lily, which maintains its root system about a foot below the water line and has lovely round leaves that float on the surface. PRACTICALITIES Monitor water levels and top off when evaporation occurs. Fertilize as necessary. Drain about once a year to clean the pot. It may need to be moved inside during winter in cooler climes. Watch out for algae, which requires sun, warm water and random organic debris to grow. Combat mosquito breeding in standing water with mosquito bits or dunks, which are non-toxic tablets with a bacteria that kills mosquito larvae.
home + design
Good-Looking Charcoal Grills Throw your grilling aspirations on one of these three capable grills at the next local barbecue Should you need more than just a grill, check out Ikea’s modular outdoor kitchen system, Grillskär. It has a sleek black powder-coated steel base with a stainless-steel counter, and includes additional units that have a sink or a prep counter. www.ikea.com/us
Bake, roast, smoke—the Big Green Egg does it all. The first was a simple clay cooker sold out of Atlanta in 1974 and has since been vastly improved thanks to ceramic technology originally developed by NASA for the space program. Now available in seven sizes, a large one can handle twelve burgers, a 20-pound turkey or seven racks of ribs. The party will come to you. www.biggreenegg.com
What’s more iconic than the Original Kettle Charcoal Grill from Weber? Designed in 1952 by George Stephen, a man obsessed with grilling the perfect steak, he took inspiration from a buoy, cutting it in half and adding three legs and a handle, to create the original round cooking bowl with a lid. www.weber.com
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mind + body
Scent Messages Aromatherapy is increasingly tapped for soothing or invigorating effects written by Cathy Carroll WHETHER IT’S THE aroma of lavender, ginseng and frankincense or eucalyptus, rosemary and ylang ylang, aromatherapy is gaining widespread use. Having made the leap from the fringes to mainstream healthcare across the country, it is being leveraged for managing pain, nausea, depression, stress, insomnia, dementia and other ailments. The national trend is reflected in the growth at Mountain Rose Herbs, which ships its organic products across the U.S. and Canada from its 12-acre campus in Eugene.
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Mountain Rose Herbs offers organic essential oils for aromatherapy.
mind + body
“The most intriguing element of aromatherapy is the physiological responses that the body goes through when we experience scent. Aromatherapy was built on our innate ability to connect smell with thoughts, emotions and memories. Certain smells can trigger signals to our brain that it’s time to wake up or to wind down.” — Thomas Dick, Mountain Rose Herbs marketing and creative director
“We have seen an exponential inof evergreen essential oil,” said Dick. “I crease in not only the volume of peoalso love making my own aroma sprays Sweet Summer ple that are interested in aromatherand oil-based perfumes. Not only are Aroma Oil Recipe apy, but also in the variety of things they fun to create, but they allow me Mountain Rose Herbs / Eugene that they are interested in trying,” said to formulate blends that work in perThomas Dick, marketing and creative fect harmony with my body’s natural • 5 drops organic fresh ginger director. In a couple of months, the chemistry.” essential oil company, which has been in Eugene For Cindy Maricle of Bend, aroma• 4 drops organic lavender for two decades, plans to open The therapy offered help recovering from a essential oil Aroma Bar, a “full sensory exploration” series of horse-related injuries. Fifteen • 2 drops organic sweet of their products locally in 5th Street years ago she was taking antidepresorange essential oil Market Alley. sants and strong drugs for the pain, • 1 drop organic rosemary “The most intriguing element of and she was overweight and lethargic. essential oil • 1 oz organic jojoba oil aromatherapy is the physiological re“Life looked bleak … without purpose, sponses that the body goes through going through the motions day after Carefully drop essential oils into when we experience scent,” Dick said. day,” said Maricle. She began using a glass bottle with a roll-on top. “Aromatherapy was built on our innate aromatherapy daily and said it gave Add jojoba oil, attach roller top ability to connect smell with thoughts, her the ability to live a pain-free, high and lid and gently roll or invert emotions and memories. Certain energy, active, vibrant, fun life. bottle to mix. Apply to wrists smells can trigger signals to our brain The aromas have an almost immediand neck for a quick pick-me-up. that it’s time to wake up or to wind ate effect on her emotional state. “The down.” tiny essential oil molecules stimulate Invigorating essential oils such as the nerve endings in the nasal cavity citrus, rosemary and ginger often can which connect directly to the limbic enliven you in the morning, while lavender, cedarwood or part of the brain which is involved in our emotional response,” blue tansy can help to soothe and calm the nerves at night. said Maricle, a former medical technologist who worked in Scent is personal, however, and aromas can trigger varying clinical laboratories with state-of-the-art analytical instruemotions and sensations, he added. “What may stimulate one mentation. In deciding to sell essential oil products, she visitperson, may soothe another. That is why there is not a one- ed several of the distilleries and farms owned by the company size-fits-all approach to aromatherapy, making the possibili- Young Living in Idaho and was impressed by the laboratory ties endless and exploration exciting.” technology used to analyze the oils’ purity and potency. After a day of work or spending time in his machine shop She offered a few precautions: dilute essential oils with a restoring vintage racing motorcycles, he will turn on his oil vegetable oil such as almond oil, olive oil, or her favorite, codiffuser about a half hour before bed, setting it so it will mist conut oil. Use a metal or glass bottle, as plastic may react with on and off throughout the night, which helps him sleep. “I per- the oils. Never apply essential oils directly to ears, eyes, or sonally love aromas that remind me of the forest, so any kind mucous membranes. JULY | AUGUST 2021
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artist in residence
Stage Blazer
Portland acting coach discovers her style fits kids, athletes perfectly written by Cathy Carroll
WHEN KATIE O’GRADY’S daughter was eight years old, she told her mom she wanted to learn how to act. It was around 2008 in Portland, and O’Grady, a television and film actress, was coming up short. She wanted to find a program for children that emulated hard-working, professional acting, not just acting for fun—so she created one.
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Katie O’Grady will be appearing in a new TV pilot, “Kill the Orange-Faced Bear.”
artist in residence
Since launching The Studio Northwest, O’Grady has not only become known as a go-to source for young talent in the region, having trained hundreds of students, she created her own production company, was declared “marvelous” by The New York Times as the lead in the 2011 film “Rid of Me” and has been collaborating on film projects for companies such as Nike, stopmotion animation studio Laika and the Portland Trail Blazers. It was her reputation for coaching child actors that prompted the NBA team to bring O’Grady on to direct “Growing Up Rip City,” a fiftieth-anniversary television spot which earned her an Emmy in the male-dominated field. At the same time, she held her studio together when the pandemic struck, following the sudden death of her father. She brought the studio online, initially to simply offer kids a connection to their artistic community and secondly to continue developing their acting skills. Celebrated actors such as Fred Armisen, of “Saturday Night Live’’ and “Portlandia” (O’Grady appeared on “Portlandia” for eight seasons), joined an online class, encouraging students to nurture their passion despite the global crisis. Adding a digital dimension yielded the unexpected—her classes grew as kids around the country and abroad discovered the studio, named for more than just its location. The fifth-generation Oregonian brings a distinctly Northwest philosophy to her approach to everything from coaching and teaching to screenwriting and mothering. One hallmark: skip the star system for collaboration, not the least of which included the Trail Blazers piece. “How I won the Emmy was with their team, hands down one of the best production teams I’ve ever worked with,” said O’Grady, who oversaw multiple camera crews and teams for dozens of vignettes with scores of actors edited together for the segment. “There wasn’t one person that was a star of that show.” She’s also discovered that her coaching style, honed from years of working with children, translated perfectly for hyper-focused, performance-oriented sports stars with zero time to rehearse and handlers allotting a precisely timed fifteen minutes to nail the spot. “They need information quick and clear, whereas a well-trained actor, maybe you have to navigate the dark, back corners of their mind to help them see where they need to go, but athletes are like, ‘What do you want me to do?’ and they do it,” she said. “They are so prepared, they are so dedicated and yeah, they would come in and you get minutes—minutes is a luxury with the athletes I work with.” Los Angeles Angels’ Mike Trout, Tampa Bay Buccaneers’ Ndomukong Suh, Seattle Storm’s Sue Bird and Olympic gymnast Simone Biles are some of them. Since the acclaimed Rip City spot, she works frequently with the Trail Blazers, having filmed some of their Black Lives Matter messages and clips played on the Moda Center jumbotron. “She has an incredible ability to direct actors in a way that feels authentic,” said Billie Olson, the Trail Blazers’ director of production, who’d brought her on for the Rip City spot. “We then decided to see how she could do coaching our players at our yearly media day at Portland. Keep in mind that these are young men with no acting training and hate trying to perform on camera. Katie was able to get them to relax and, for the first time, look comfortable on
Katie O’Grady coaches her students to develop and nurture their craft and embrace collaboration rather than focusing on the pursuit of stardom.
camera while reading a teleprompter. She has brought a great deal of professionalism and experience to our productions.” For O’Grady, a high point was feeling she was a part of the organization, having overcome an initial sense that she of being out of place—a petite artist directing towering players. “I like the collaborative, sweet kindness that those guys have, and it’s cultivated by their staff and production team, for sure,” she said. “You can feel it. I’m very proud of it. It breaks my heart, every time I see it (“Growing Up Rip City”), to be just so proud to be part of Oregon and proud to be a Blazer fan.” Part of the secret to her success is the Portland culture that embraced her while she blazed her own trail as a working mother carving out a niche training children to act. “Everything leads back to that, to be honest, because this place is—it’s got a heartbeat,” said O’Grady. “In this city, you know, if you’re looking for a kid actor, you’re going to call me.” Her Medford roots, growing up hunting, camping and escaping to the family cabin on Mount Hood, guide her in advising students and their parents. “I don’t wish them to be a star in L.A. or New York,” she said. “I don’t wish them getting up at four o’clock in the morning and working their tail off all day and not seeing any other kids and getting schooled in between takes, learning lines and not being able to go have fun. What I tell parents is, ‘What I wish for your child is that they get dirt in their hair and that their feet freeze from the river and the ocean wave knocks them on their butts in the sand and that they get broken up with, and that they break up with somebody and they go to prom and they put a corsage on a girl, and I wish for them that feeling of love and loss and life before they have their career.’” In the meantime, they should be training, discovering what it takes to be a working actor. “My goal isn’t for these kids to be, you know, stars, but artists for a lifetime, and what does that mean to invite art into your life,” she said. “What does it mean to take care of it.” JULY | AUGUST 2021
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STARTUP 48 WHAT’S GOING UP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 52 MY WORKSPACE 54 GAME CHANGER 56
pg. 56 A once-struggling company now pays it forward to local Black farmers.
startup
Airborne Wind Energy Startup Takes Flight Revolutionizing the kite-string-to-power idea not seen since the days of Ben Franklin written by Kevin Max BENCE OLIVER had plenty of experience with renewable energy, even wind energy, but it was a coffee in Portland with eWind founder David Schaefer that put wind under his wings. Oliver had just resigned from his post as the chief financial officer at Windlift, a Raleigh, North Carolina-based airborne wind energy company, when he returned to Portland, where he’d lived before. Before Windlift, Oliver had spent five years with eBay, as its director of strategic sourcing in Switzerland. “Prior to my arrival at eWind, I was really impressed with how much they were able to do with relatively little money,” he said. “In a relatively short amount of time, they were able to put together a system that is fully functional, it flies, and it generates electricity.” Airborne wind energy is a system that uses a flying blade or kite that is blown by strong wind and tethered to a base on the ground, where the wind-blown kite’s movement is converted into storable energy. eWind’s kite is essentially a light autonomous drone with a 10-foot wingspan. Alternatively, in some versions of airborne wind energy, the power generation happens in the blade or kite. The system that eWind uses follows the model of the former, where the tether is connected to a drum at the base that, when the tether is pulled, turns the drum and creates energy. “Airborne wind energy is a pretty innovative new type of renewable energy system,” Oliver said. “It’s really cool because the turbines themselves are actually kites, they fly like a kite and they tap high altitude winds, which is very different from a traditional wind turbine.” Typically when people think of wind power, they imagine enormous towers of more than 250 feet with turbine blades of 150 feet, and tons of steel and concrete. They can also be noisy and visually pollutive of open spaces. Airborne wind energy is much smaller (the equipment can fit in the back of a pickup truck), a fraction of the cost, virtually noise free and can be set up in fifteen minutes. Of course, eWind and other airborne wind energy systems are not meant to be utilityscale operations (at peak capacity eWind can produce 10 megawatts of energy per day) but used for specific settings such as high altitude farming and temporary “forward” military bases. For illustration, at the time of this interview, Oliver was meeting with officials from Camp Lejeune Marine Base in North Carolina. “There is strong interest from not only the military, but other departments as well that might be able to benefit from producing power beyond the grid,” said Oliver. “Or departments like the 48 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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FROM TOP Bence Oliver is CEO of eWind. Devices reaching higher altitude winds produce up to four times the electricity of a small wind turbine.
Department of Agriculture, FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency) and the Department of Defense. Those are all organizations or departments that have a strong interest in new ways to produce a ton of power without fossil fuels.” The wind energy startup earned early recognition in Abu Dhabi in 2020, winning a technology award and grant funding from the United Arab Emirates government to continue research and development. Still in a pre-production phase, eWind has fully functional prototypes. The bulk of its funding comes from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Ultimately, Oliver thinks that the company will get bigger by making its wind systems smaller. “Most companies in this space are looking to solve a utility solution, megawatts,” Oliver noted. “Given the kinds of functions that attract people to our system, our goal is to go smaller, maybe even produce less power depending on the application and reducing our footprint.”
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what’s going up?
Hallowed Halls New food halls offer flexibility and eclectic cuisine for a casual approach to dining out
The Grove Market Hall has nine food and beverage purveyors in NorthWest Crossing, Bend.
written by Cathy Carroll
Rendering: Project^
DINING OUT IS BACK again and a few new food halls are keeping it interesting, casual and flexible. In Portland, Collective Oregon Eateries, or CORE, is on a mission to elevate the work environment for culinary artists and the eatery experience. It has its sights set on being “the ultimate foodie destination,” according to its vision statement for the 36,000-square-foot space on SE 82nd Avenue. The offerings include Papi Sal’s Puerto Rican barbecue meets Philadelphia comfort food; Mitate sushi; Matta’s Vietnamese dishes, A UnicornCreationz Restaurant’s Mexican-Southern fusion; Gumba Pasta Parlor and EEM’s Thai barbecue. In Beaverton, 1st Street Dining Commons, a pandemic pop-up, prevails. The space offers tents around tables for enjoying takeout from surrounding downtown restaurants such as Koya Sushi, Ex Novo Brewing, Big’s Chicken, Top Burmese Bistro Royale, Nak Won Korean Restaurant, Syndicate Wine Bar and Afuri Izakaya for ramen. In Bend, The Grove Market Hall in the NorthWest Crossing neighborhood, will satisfy after river and trail adventures. It has brought together a brewery, Waypoint, as well as ThAiPAS, Left Coast Burger Company, Elly’s Ice Cream, Sebastian’s Seafood & Specialty Market, Sunny’s Carrello (Italian inspired dishes from the chef of local favorite Sunny Yoga Kitchen), Greenleaf Juice and Thump Coffee.
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what i’m working on
Water Wisdom How the Deschutes River Conservancy aims to bridge the divide among water users interview by Kevin Max
WHISKEY IS FOR drinking and water is for fighting. At the Deschutes River Conservancy in Central Oregon, they’re taking the fight out of water. The new executive director, Kate Fitzpatrick, is a veteran of the organization and skillful ambassador among the widely divergent stakeholders of water management and marketing. We caught up with her just after the river conservancy received federal funds for new projects. What are the different water interests you’re balancing on a daily basis? We are balancing water demands for healthy river flows, irrigated agriculture and growing urban communities. The lion’s share of water in the Deschutes Basin (86 percent) is allocated in the form of water rights that are diverted from the river to support irrigated agriculture. The challenge is to restore more natural flows to the river while continuing to support agricultural uses of water. Municipal use of water currently comprises 2 percent of the water demand in the basin, but we will need to find additional water for growing cities as well. Everyone in the Deschutes has a stake in water—whether farmer, tribal member, river enthusiast, recreator or urban dweller. What are the main tools for water conservation? Water conservation and water marketing are the biggest tools in our toolbox. Water conservation involves piping irrigation canals and upgrading on-farm irrigation infrastructure. Water distribution systems were built over a century ago and are largely earthen canals dug into leaky volcanic rock that lose up 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Kate Fitzpatrick, the new executive director of Deschutes River Conservancy, thinks big.
to 50 percent of water on the way to farms. Many irrigators still engage in flood irrigation and have an opportunity to use less water using sprinkler or drip irrigation. Modernizing irrigation infrastructure and delivery systems significantly reduces water demands and allows that water to be restored instream. Water marketing involves incentivizing water users to trade their water rights to other users and to the river, on either a temporary or permanent basis. The DRC’s Annual Water Leasing Program, for example, leases about 4,500 acres of water rights instream each year, offering an incentive payment in return. There is ample room for these voluntary programs to grow to allow water to move between farmers, irrigation districts and to the river more easily. How could piping irrigation canals restore water flows? Conservation savings through piping leaky irrigation canals are protected instream to support river health. This means that less water gets diverted from the river and is protected instream, by the state, from use by others. There is the opportunity to save approximately 120,000 acre-feet of water through large canal piping. This number can double when paired
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with smaller piping projects, on-farm efficiencies and water marketing. For example, Central Oregon Irrigation District’s (COID) next piping project will restore 30 cubic feet per second instream within the next two years. Complementary work can double this number. What do you see as the greatest threat to Upper Deschutes River Basin water management? Water in the west is contentious. We see examples of conflict all around us. And water law is complex. We are fortunate in the Deschutes Basin to generally have enough water to meet needs if managed efficiently. We also have a vast body of information on available strategies to solve these issues, and a long history of collaboration showcasing real results. The needs of endangered species have accelerated the need to restore flows, and irrigation districts are facing increased water supply risk due to these commitments. Extended drought and climate change increase these challenges. But we have the tools and partnerships to solve these problems. Our greatest threat is if we are not successful in investing enough financial and cultural commitment in the solutions that are in front of us.
Portland Arts & Lectures 2021/22 DA DANIEL JA JAMES BROWN 10/14/21 10/
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OREGON CULTURE NIGHTS A traditional arts series on the lawn
EDWIDGE ED DANTICAT
THURSDAYS JULY 8, 15, 22, and 29 6:00 pm. Join a celebration of Oregon’s living traditions, featuring dancer and choreographer Jayanthi Raman and other master artists from around the Willamette Valley. Seating is limited and reservations are recommended. Learn more and request your reservations at mnch.uoregon.edu.
5/12/22
Subscriptions start at just $90 for the five-part series! A full digital access pass is included with your subscription, so if you are unable to attend an event in person, you can watch online. All events are scheduled for 7:30 p.m. at the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, 1037 SW Broadway Ave, Portland, OR. Learn more at: literary-arts.org THANK YOU TO OUR SEASON SPONSORS:
1680 East 15th Avenue Eugene, Oregon 541-346-3024 On the University of Oregon campus near Hayward Field
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my workspace
Wonder Weld
Twisted steel and figurative appeal from a scrappy, self-taught sculptor written by Kevin Max
Breezy Anderson is a metal sculptor who turned a two-car garage in Bend into her workshop, where she began to learn the processes with “junkyard art.” She made mistakes along the way, but learned from them. Now she creates stunning works of beauty and pain sold around the world.
Her metalwork began ten years ago when a family friend gave her an old welder and she was “instantly hooked.” Now her workspace includes a crane, a forge, multiple welders and, depending on her next piece, copper, steel, brass or aluminum.
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my workspace
“Being a full-time sculptor hasn’t always been easy,” Anderson said. “A lot of the work would never have happened if I or others weren’t willing to try and accept the failures. The failures are where some of the largest successes come from.”
“My style is a balance of reconstruction and deconstruction, balance and imbalance. So you have a female figure where there is going to be something deconstructed about it, whether I’ve taken parts off or limbs off,” the artist said.
Perhaps the most remarkable thing about Anderson’s sculpture is that she does it all freehand. “I don’t use any casting or molding or anything—which is quite standardized in figurative work—I do it all freehand. I use thousands and thousands of steel rods, then I cut them to form an armature or skeleton—freehand and with my MIG (metal inert gas) welder. Then, I’ll skin the entire piece, which is very laborious.”
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game changer
FROM TOP Black Futures Farm co-owners Malcolm Hoover, left, and Mirabai Collins. Brew Dr.’s new yerba mate, Uplift, supports Black farmers.
Of Fermentation and Equity Brew Dr. writes a new prescription—uplifting Black farmers with their new yerba mate written by Charles Rigby
MATT THOMAS WAS a student at University of Oregon in 2002 when he became mystified with not being able to get good tea in coffee shops. He wrote a business plan to address this problem. “If you wanted tea in a coffee shop you had few options,” said Thomas. “I fell in love with tea in the process of writing the biz plan.” 56 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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After graduating from UO in 2002, Thomas waded through uninspiring jobs before he returned to his business plan and raised $45,000 from friends and family for the first Townshend’s Tea Company teahouse in Portland. “For a long time I was unsure whether I could live off of tips,” he recalled. It wasn’t until 2007, when he was able to get out from behind the counter and focus on opening a second venue, this one in Bend.” The Bend Townshend’s Tea opened in 2008. “I had about seven credit cards and $5,000 on each. Thomas made it back to Portland in the summer of 2008 and started to make kombucha, which eventually would become the widely distributed brand, Brew Dr. The segue into kombucha made sense, Thomas said, “because it’s tea and fermented, and it turned out the work we had done to make tea blends translated well into kombucha flavors.” In 2009, people took to kombucha at his two teahouses, and Thomas saw opportunity in this new consumer demand. He leased the basement of the Portland teahouse, set up a table and started fermenting tea in buckets. In the teahouses, this new brew was artlessly served from buckets, too. Quickly, Thomas and his crew decided they should bottle the new brew for increasing demand and retail sales. In 2009, Whole Foods gave Brew Dr. a new lifeline with a local producer loan. “That got us out of the basement and into the brewing facility. Soon, Thomas realized, Brew Dr. was the third largest kombucha maker in the world. He digested that information and did what any entrepreneur would do and signed up for as much debt as he could to expand his kombucha operations, ending in a 50,000 square-foot facility in Tualatin that produces 700,000 bottles per week. What began with credit cards and sweat equity transformed into a B corp, or benefit corporation, a business structure that values environmental and social ethics as much as profits. He looked to the pioneers in business that had blazed the trail for better corporate governance, social equity and gentler environmental impact—Patagonia, New Seasons Market and Hopworks Urban Brewery. “Care for our environment and our communities was already part of who I was,” Thomas said. “We wanted to cement policies and begin measuring and offsetting our carbon footprint.” After the murder of George Floyd, “there was an awakening” Thomas said, and the company decided to switch from donating to the organization 1% for The Planet to local BIPOC farmers—Black Futures Farm and Mudbone Grown. A percentage of sales of Uplift, Brew Dr.’s new yerba mate brand, helps fund these farmers. Thomas estimates that annually, sales of Uplift will contribute about $20,000 to small nonprofits of the BIPOC community. While not an enormous tranche, these funds helped Black Futures Farm build a greenhouse sooner than they would have been able to, not unlike Whole Foods’ seed grant for Brew Dr.’s expansion.
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It ’s Time to Hit the Trail Again.
MidWillametteValleyFoodTrail.com
7 Summer Itineraries
for New Experiences 58
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AT LEFT Kiteboarders harness the wind of the Columbia River Gorge, where wing foiling is helping beginners. (photo: Jen Jones)
Get inspired to press pause on sightseeing and plunge into the action written by Kelsey Swenson
Peeking out from under your shell after winter and spring, new experiences await in a world that’s coming back to life. Where to begin? We’ve curated a list of seven ways to redefine vacation. Jump into the deep end—stretch your legs and train your mind with the practice of trying new things. Our state’s abundance of outdoor adventures is matched only by the joy Oregonians reap when sharing them with others. Push the boundaries of your next getaway, and you’ll find people offering musical joy, confidence on the waves and in life, soulrestorative forest retreats, and the fulfillment of playing on trails while remedying the devastation of last year’s wildfires, too. This summer will be the one you were dreaming of in 2020 as you—and our community—reopens, rebuilds and recreates.
Art
1
When you walk in the door of the SunnySide Theatre in Roseburg onto the solid maple floor, you’ll step into the 1920s. Brave the stage and develop your performance skills in a welcoming theatre intended as a springboard for the up-and-comers. Owner Daniel Thomas’s dream is not only to invite well-known performers such as singer-songwriter John Mayer, but also to jumpstart lesser-known artists’ careers. “Our overall vision is really just to create a homey place for community, so we can have artists of all ages and abilities come, whether that’s a painter, singer, dancer, aerial silks … we even have someone we know that does metalwork,” said Thomas.
If simply being in the audience and indulging in new music feels like a daring new experience these days, sit back and cultivate a sense of wonderment in your surroundings. The trumpet and saxophone brass pendant lights set against the turquoise, CD-embedded ceiling “light up the place to showcase the stage,” said Thomas. You can see the stage from every corner and from tables made crafted from old pianos. The bar was made from three 1860s grand pianos from Chicago and New York. The endeavor sprung from the musical passion of Thomas and his wife, Lu, who owned a ballet studio previously and whose five kids all sing and dance. Above all, “The world has so much art, and that’s really what we want to remind people of,” said Thomas. www.facebook.com/SunnySideRoseburg
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP SunnySide Theatre’s stage is set for would-be performers to brave it on Shadow Mic Night. A saxophone lamp, vintage cassette tapes and vinyl complete the retro vibe. Lights set in hanging trumpets reflect off tables for two.
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FROM TOP Kiteboarding is the way to catch a wave on the Columbia River. (photo: Jen Jones) Cyclists get an insider’s taste of the fruit of the valley on a MountNbarreL tour. Hiyu Wine Farm offers a feast straight from the farm after a sunset walk through the fields.
Kiteboarding When the cool air of Portland meets the warmer air of the Columbia River Gorge, strong winds power the sails of pent-up city folk as well as the energetic little town of Hood River, as prokiteboarder Lindsay McClure calls it. It’s easy to clear your mind when the wind takes your sail and blows your worries away with views of Mount Hood and Mount Adams towering over the gorge. A tidal wave of interest has swelled around the water sports scene here. Fortunately, a less intimidating, entry-level option for soaring high above the waves has surfaced. Wing foiling, with its inflatable, handheld wing, offers easier navigation in a wider variety of wind conditions. If you want the challenge of getting to know the wind and waves better, try kiteboarding, in which the wind plays a bigger role. Many elite and professional 60 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
kiters come from around the world to practice, play and compete here, but there’s plenty of instruction for beginners, too. McClure recommends lessons at Cascade Kiteboarding, where instructors use microphones to give you tips through your helmet as you ride on the water. Once you learn how to harness the wind, you can kiteboard or wing foil nearly anywhere. “It’s a way to use natural energy to get out and explore,” said McClure. After a day on the river, stroll along the rolling gardens and pastures of Hiyu Wine Farm, where cows, chickens and ducks roam. To explore more vineyards and views, hop on a bike, ebike or shuttle with MountNbarreL through the blooming backroads of the valley (see pg. 78). www.mountnbarrel.com/bike-and-wine-tours www.hiyuwinefarm.com www.cascadekiteboarding.com
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Culinary
4
Surfing
3
“It wakes you up—you just get that alive feeling,” said Lexie Hallahan, who has been empowering women to chase this feeling with her since she started NW Women’s Surf Camps in 2005. Her camps and classes in Seaside create a diverse surfing community no longer dominated by men. In her camps, Hallahan strives to break down barriers that keep women from conquering the waves. Her eight instructors are not only talented Northwest surfers who inspire students of the water to be brave, but also certified lifeguards who spend a considerable amount of time teaching a healthy respect for rip tides.
“You feel more confident, you gain resiliency and you gain understanding of the natural forces,” said Hallahan. “But also, you feel like you’re part of the bigger scheme of things.” To start your journey, visit Clean Line Surf shop to pick up your board and gear before heading to Oswald State Park. Although surf camps are booked, Bodyboard Day Camp for teen and adult women let you connect with other women while taking the first step into the surfing scene by learning on a soft bodyboard. For a day full of surfing adventures with family or friends, take a coed group surfing lesson to study the waves and let them transform you.
ABOVE, AT LEFT Lexie Hallahan’s passion for surfing inspires women to conquer the waves of life at NW Women’s Surf Camps. BELOW Chefs Bob Neroni and Lenore Emery of EVOO offer a dash of expert tips in their twiceweekly culinary classes.
Mastering the art of cooking and gathering around to savor your creation together is an age-old tradition. It’s also an art for you to personalize. Whether roasting chicken in a first-class kitchen or sizzling corn over an open flame, let a professional chef spark some excitement in you to get creative beyond your usual weeknight dinner repertoire. Chef Bob Neroni of EVOO: Cannon Beach, emphasizes that Oregon has more than fourteen micro-seasons. His mantra: “There’s always something new to play with.” You’ll walk away with confidence to invite your friends to the backyard for your own dining experience. At EVOO, you’ll prepare three main courses paired with wine alongside Neroni as he offers tips for choosing the freshest ingredients and flavor combinations. For a deliciously passive experience, every Wednesday in August Neroni will be serving Mexican street-style corn on the cob over an open, wood-fired grill with cojita cheese and crema. What is his favorite dish? “Anything I’m making right now.” www.evoocb.com
www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com
“You feel more confident, you gain resiliency and you gain understanding of the natural forces. But also, you feel like you’re part of the bigger scheme of things.” — Lexie Hallahan, NW Women’s Surf Camps founder
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ABOVE Katrina McGiffin strikes a yoga tree-pose at her forest bathing retreat near Eugene.
Mindfulness
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Ranch
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In a valley of the Ochoco National Forest, Wine Down Ranch is the place to tap into to your cowboy or cowgirl self. Feed cattle from the back of a hay truck, brand and brush horses or help build a fence on this family owned, working ranch in Prineville amid 2,100 acres of scenic meadows and forests. Venture onto miles of trails winding up hills and through the valley. “It’s nice to unplug and just be out in nature,” said ranch owners Mary and Roy Beyer. Out the back door of
your cabin, the Oregon Outback Trail winds among tall crags and wildflowers in full bloom. At the end of the day, when you’re sitting on the bunkhouse porch sipping wine, you’ll realize that this is a really good breathing space. The ranch also offers yoga and hiking for some mental rest after a full day of farmer’s work. On August 20 and 21 music, cowboy poetry, vendors, food and drink, ranch activities and camping at the McKay Creek Cowboy Gathering celebrates and supports their Horses on the Ranch equine therapy program. www.winedownranch.com
ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Working Chianina-Black Angus cattle on thousands of acres of meadow. Feed and brush horses as you wind down at Wine Down Ranch in Prineville. A calf gets ready for branding. (photos: Erica Swantek)
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In the Mohawk Valley outside of Eugene, the leaves of quaking aspen applaud guests who come to breathe in the scent of pines and relax into the rhythm of the forest. Tipi Village Retreat draws those seeking to renew their mindfulness, yoga and writing practices while staying in tipis and cabins and eating nourishing foods. Katrina McGiffin, a yoga teacher with a master’s in nutrition, hosts retreats such as True Nature, July 22 through 25. “What we have experienced in leading past experiences like this is that when people connect more deeply with nature on the outside, they also deepen their connection with their inner nature,” she said. Some of the proceeds go to the Native American Youth and Family Center in Portland. At the retreat, take a dip in shinrinyoku, a Japanese practice known as “forest bathing,” an immersive walk in the forest where you stop for deep breathing and yoga. According to a study in Japan, forest environments correlate to better health. Urban arborist Dustin Marchello leads forest bathing walks around Portland, where he leads groups of up to thirty bathers who take their Sunday rest to the next level, breathing in forest-fresh air while learning about trees. “I’m here to create curiosity,” he said. Amid this summer’s excitement, time in the forest can reset your mind to prepare for the next adventure. www.nourishandbe.com/truenatureretreat www.tipivillageretreat.com
Ecotourism
ABOVE Doing trail work with the McKenzie Regenerative Travel Project offers good hiking while restoring public lands. AT LEFT Rafting the McKenzie River is a cool reward after a day of working with volunteering vacationers.
Vacation is an investment in yourself, and rightfully so. But what if you could vacation and volunteer at the same time? Enter voluntourism. After last year’s Holiday Farm Fire which ravaged more than 400 homes and popular tourist sites along the McKenzie River, Forest Service workers began cleaning up the damage. Executive Director Alyssa Archer of Cascade Volunteers brainstormed ideas to bring people in to help. The McKenzie Regenerative Travel Project emerged as a model for the cooperation of public land management, federal agencies, destination marketing, outfitter guides and nonprofits, creating a type of post-disaster voluntourism that could serve for years to come. Stay at a local lodge and volunteer on the trails, having fun while doing work to repair the damaged areas and local economy. “You’re learning, you’re working and you’re playing,” Archer said. And at the end of a full day of trail work when you’re sitting around a campfire roasting s’mores with your new friends, you’ll feel a sense of fulfillment. “There’s no better feeling than volunteering on your public land,” said Archer. The bonus: exciting outings such as rafting the McKenzie River, mountain biking the river trail and taking guided hikes to learn about your surroundings. www.cascadevols.org/mckenzie-regenerativetravel-project
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Art WELLNESS THE
OF
Forging new pathways to brain health by engaging in the creative art community written by Cathy Carroll
photo, top right: Ed Schmidt
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musician lies inside a magnetic resonance imaging device with a keyboard and noise-cancelling headphones and plays a piece of music, then improvises, then composes. The imaging shows unexpected parts of the artist’s brain engaging. A cancer patient takes a doctor’s prescription to draw something—anything—every day.
An ensemble performs authentic Japanese taiko drums and traditional dance as a way of combating violence against Asian Americans. Families at a birthing center see art depicting people who look like them, helping put them at ease and recover faster. Research and new technology continues to show the link between the arts and wellness, and Oregon health and civic organizations are embracing ways for it to make a difference in people’s lives.
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t Oregon Health and Science University in Portland, neuroscientist Lawrence Sherman began a series of popular talks exploring how playing and listening to music can help brain development throughout your life. Local songwriter and pianist Naomi LaViolette as well as opera legend Renée Fleming have joined him in presentations, culminating in a book he’s just completed with professional musician Dennis Plies, who teaches music at Portland’s Warner Pacific University. They’d been working on Every Brain Needs Music: the Neuroscience of Learning, Teaching, Listening and Loving Music for four years, and pandemic lockdown gave Sherman time to finish it. When it’s released, part of it will detail how advances in brain imaging, including the MRI scans of musicians’ brains at work, reveal the benefits of cultivating creativity. “It really kind of gets down to not only the nature of music composition, but just human creativity in general and how the brain engages in those types of things,” said Sherman, a musician and president of the Oregon and Southwest Washington Chapter of the Society for Neuroscience. Studies have shown that when you perform music with a group, it has real, measurable physiological effects on the brain and chemicals that are regulated by the brain, including things such as pumping out feel-good endorphins. “People who are experiencing chronic pain, when they sing in a group, say the pain feels like it’s going away, so you’re actually loading your system up to sort of not care as much about your pain basically,” said Sherman. Even more interesting about those studies is that the size of the group matters. “So, singing alone in the shower is okay, singing with a few friends is okay, too, but singing in a really big choir group has all these effects on both endorphins and also another chemical in the brain, dopamine,” said Sherman. “Which is part of your reward.” The instant gratification effect also gives people a sense of acceptance within a group. “It’s really remarkable that we seem to be wired to really like to be in these situations where we’re in this large group of people singing together or playing music together,” he said. “We probably evolved as a species to depend on other people. When we were in the caves and hunter-gatherers, we worked together to survive, so being accepted into a group is a very positive thing for the human brain. We really want that acceptance, we want to know that people are on our side, that there they’ve got our backs. So doing things together, things that reinforce that togetherness, I think, is 66
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part of a circuit that’s very primitive in our brains and very important to our existence.” Another exciting finding, Sherman said, is that learning to play an instrument gives a serious boost to brain neuroplasticity. “One of the things that we know now is that our brain is very plastic. Even at an older age, we turn over new cells in our brain all the time and we make new ones,” he said. In learning things like a new musical instrument, your brain gets stronger by making new myelin, which forms a protective sheath around the threadlike part of a cell that transmits electrical signals between cells. Damage to myelin is associated with multiple sclerosis, stroke and Alzheimer’s disease. “So there’s all sorts of therapeutic consequences there,” said Sherman. “Music can cause these remarkable changes—you’re actually rewiring your brain.”
K
enneth Weizer loved being a filmmaker, but after he was diagnosed with cancer at age 32, he thought there was more to life. “I wanted to help other people through the cancer dance because it was hard for me, and I was a young healthy guy,” he said. He pivoted to medical school, and for the past two decades, he’s worked as a naturopathic doctor at Providence Portland Medical Center. “I approach it in a human way, not just trying to kill cancer. That’s what oncology does, getting rid of the lump and the bump. I get everything else, all the good stuff—the person, how they feel and think and sleep and poop and stress, and I try to minimize the side effects of the oncology treatment. … You don’t want to just beat cancer, you want to remember who you are.” He prescribes creativity laced with laughter for everyone, whether you have an illness or not, but especially for his patients, amid “all the stuff that’s easy to not talk about in the drama and trauma of cancer.” When he asks patients what they can do for their creative wellness, the most common three-word response is “I don’t know.” He responds, “Awesome. You’re a blank canvas.” He asks what is the easiest thing they could do, such as picking up a pen and paper and drawing or writing, or spending $3 on a piece of clay and sculpting it into something. Not a shred of artistic knowledge is needed, only a kind and nonjudgmental attitude toward yourself. “Who cares what anyone else thinks about it,” Weizer said. “Kids don’t care, they just do it. It’s part of the factory-installed creative process. We need to remember that. Picasso said that it took him his whole life to remember how to paint as a child.”
W
atching the Portland-based Unit Souzou ensemble perform on authentic barrel-sized, Japanese taiko drums combined with precision choreography in traditional dance is mesmerizing. Not only do the artists create groundbreaking, professional theatrical works, they focus on building community. For Asian Americans, that extends the concept of health and wellness to that of safety, said co-director Michelle Fujii.
Their show, “Otherness: Togetherness,” performed virtually last year, was aimed at combating fear surrounding xenophobic and racist incidents unfolding across the nation and in the community. Another show, “Constant State of Otherness,” is in the works. “It was based upon the recognition of how much, especially from 2016, there was just so much rhetoric happening in public spaces really of divisiveness,” said Fujii. People with identities from other places became the targets of animosity and being made into the enemy. “Our drum is an opportunity to be able to have a voice. Through the art form itself, it’s an opportunity for people to hear our voice and to hopefully mirror or see a mirror of an experience that is not often seen or heard.”
“One of the things that we know now is that our brain is very plastic. Even at an older age, we turn over new cells in our brain all the time and we make new ones.” — Lawrence Sherman JULY | AUGUST 2021
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photo: Kristyna Wentz-Graff/OHSU
Give yourself even just a minute or two every day to connect to your innate creativity, he said, in part because it’s an integral part of health and wellness. He has a three-word mantra for that commitment to yourself, similar to a marriage vow: “No matter what.” “Don’t forget, it’s one thing—it’s not mind and body— you’re not two things, you’re just one thing,” Weizer said. “They’re the same thing—they’re you. And when you feel good in your heart and mind, that affects your biochemistry and your biology.” Creativity can encompass many arts such as culinary— baking cookies for yourself and others—or literary, by reading aloud to others. (During lockdown he spent several weeks reading Moby Dick in one-hour installments to an elderly friend.) Sharing these endeavors enhances wellbeing. “Little kindnesses, the littlest creative thing you do, you’ll know it’s right because it feels right,” Weizer said. Another drug he prescribes is laughter. He’d been giving his popular “Laughter is the Best Medicine” clinic around town and when the pandemic struck, the University of Portland asked him to help struggling students by offering his talk. It attracted more than 100 students, plus faculty and administrators. It combines laughter yoga, which involves getting groups to laugh for no reason, and other techniques. For instance, try sticking out your tongue while describing your favorite food—it’s nearly impossible to not laugh. Some of the nation’s largest nonprofits including Americans for the Arts and the Mayo Clinic cite that laughter enhances your intake of oxygen-rich air, stimulating your heart, lungs and muscles, and prods the brain into releasing more endorphins. By increasing and then decreasing your stress response, heart rate and blood pressure, it creates a relaxed feeling. Laughter can also soothe tension, stimulate circulation and aid muscle relaxation, easing some of the physical symptoms of stress. Long-term effects include improving your immune system, with laughter jolting the release of neuropeptides to help combat stress and potentially more serious illnesses.
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FROM LEFT Michelle Fujii, co-founder of Unit Souzou, performs works honoring the history and roots of the taiko art form. (photo: YuenDesign) At Randall Children’s Hospital, art such as “Together We Follow” by Dan Gluibizzi has been shown to help marginalized patients and their families feel better because they see themselves reflected in artwork.
To counteract the unhealthy, toxic othering that is perpetuating, the show will represent voices from multiple identities, gathered through interviews with people from multiple backgrounds, Fujii said. The ensemble members bring their own lenses of multiple marginalized identities and personal stories of vulnerability. Another project, “Rhythm: Walking to the Heartbeat of our Community,” began as a collaboration with the Asian Pacific American Network of Oregon on transit issues and pedestrian safety, but was postponed last year during the pandemic. The work relates to efforts of the city and other civic groups to address traffic safety of new Portlanders who have arrived recently from countries with different traffic norms, and 68
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longtime residents of color displaced to neighborhoods with wide, fast streets. It is a highly sensitive issue, especially in east Portland, Fujii said. “There’s some deep fears now around safety on our streets and walking. … Multiple pedestrian fatalities have happened there, specifically from our Asian community of elders that are trying to cross the street when there are not enough safe crosswalks for them.” The word “wellness” can evoke a sense of privilege around making life more enjoyable, Fujii said, but Unit Souzou’s projects, which include school-based education programs, aren’t aimed at niceties. “We’re just trying to make sure that we are keeping our community alive and feeling like they can walk
along the streets, without having to worry if they’re going to get harassed because of how they look.”
L
egacy Emanuel Medical Center is looking to art to recalibrate the experience of the world their patients are bringing children into. The center’s labor and delivery unit’s walls have long had art and graphics depicting images of infants of predominantly white, nuclear families. In curating an art collection for the new Family Birth Center at Randall Children’s Hospital opening this summer, a committee of leadership, nursing, physician
and nurse midwifery staff focused on not only the joy of the birth of a healthy child, but also the fear and potential feelings of grief and loss that can be associated with a high-risk pregnancy. The patient experience of single parents, surrogates, same-sex couples and ethnic diversity was also of utmost importance, said committee chair Katie Dunn, the hospital’s art therapy certified supervisor and clinical art therapy program coordinator. “There has been consideration for soothing imagery, a sense of support and a sense of control—which all have positive impacts on patient satisfaction scores in labor and delivery/family birth units,” said Dunn. In line with Legacy Health’s commitment to anti-racism, the committee hired community consultants, commissioning work from artists in the BIPOC and LGBTQ+ communities, and acquired art depicting a diversity of people. “Marginalized populations of people have felt an immediate sense of relief and pride in seeing people that look like them and/or their families represented in artwork,” said Dunn. “Literature supports what I see on a daily basis, that patients who have access to the arts, even if only a landscape painting in the corridor that induces a sense of relaxation, results in higher patient-satisfaction scores, provides a greater sense of wellbeing, faster recovery times, and quite possibly contributes to better health outcomes than patients who do not.” JULY | AUGUST 2021
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OREGON COAST MONOLITHS TODAY WE SIMPLY ENJOY the Oregon Coast’s monoliths as stellar scenery. Considering how they came to be, millions of years ago after lava from Eastern Oregon flowed through the Columbia Basin, gives us a deeper appreciation. The giant pillars of earth punctuate the coastal skyline, offering a home for teeming ocean life. Take in these protected marine gardens during a summer romp on the beach and ponder the geological forces, also at play.
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Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach (photo: TravelOregon.com/Joni Kabana)
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Table Rock, Bandon (photo: Oregon Coast Visitors Association)
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Proposal Rock, Neskowin
Twin Rocks, Rockaway Beach
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Face Rock, Bandon (photo: Oregon Coast Visitors Association)
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Arch Rock, Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor
Tillamook Rock, near Ecola State Park (photo: Oregon Coast Visitors Association)
Three Arch Rocks, Oceanside (photo: Oregon Coast Visitors Association)
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 78 ADVENTURE 80 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86
pg. 86 Three days of adult zen and kid fun in Pacific City.
Visit Tillamook Coast
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
Stay Like We Do. Outdoors.
Surrounded By Beauty.
Ready?
bellingham.org/adventure Inspired.
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travel spotlight
MountNbarreL offers a local’s look at Hood River orchards and wineries.
Loop Dreams The inside scoop on the renowned Fruit Loop: guided e-bike tours written by Cathy Carroll WHEN THE WET WEST meets the higher, drier East at the Columbia River Gorge, it coaxes from the earth a veritable summer picnic basket, from chardonnay, pinot and zinfandel to strawberries, blueberries, peaches and pears. That’s when the roads winding through Hood River call to take to them on two wheels. With the wind in your (helmeted) hair, the terroir fills your senses with every push on the pedal. MountNbarreL’s addition of e-bikes to their roster of guided tours makes it that much easier, especially for groups at varied levels of ability or desire to power themselves through an afternoon of exquisite sips and samplings of local savories and sweets. Best of all, the tours have a distinctly insider feel as local guides weave in the stories of area growers and makers of wine, beer, cider, kombucha and artisan foods. Private tastings and access to the vineyards and those who run them adds depth to an experience that’s still casual and fun. Locals love to bike to their neighborhood wineries, and that’s what inspired Ali McLaughlin to launch MountNbarreL in 2015. Visiting makers in their natural habitats pulls back the curtain on the process. “Listening to them get all excited about something they tried is really cool,” said McLaughlin. She revels in taking guests to undiscovered vineyards producing wines as beautiful as the ones at tasting rooms attracting crowds. Having a guide also relieves the burden of navigating as you discover valley backroads lined with farms and orchards with Mount Hood and Mount Adams as the backdrop. Build up an appetite and satisfy it at spots such as The Gorge White House’s farm-to-food truck for a quesadilla with goat cheese and just-picked pears. Swirl a pinot gris on the patio of Wy’East Vineyards and you’ll be convinced the scene of rolling hills before you is oil on canvas. Pull up to The Old Trunk, cool off with Tillamook ice cream or try the house-made huckleberry soda and plan a return trip. Learn more at www.mountnbarrel.com. Kelsey Swenson contributed to this report.
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adventure
In Search of Bioluminescence
Part science, part luck and part magic— discovering the ocean’s best light show
written by Amy Bowden | photography by Steven Smith/Solution 7 Media
Microscopic life aglow along the northern Oregon Coast emerges under the stars.
SCIENCE OR MAGIC? You can tell the story two ways. Magic first. Travel back to last summer with me, when my love and I were returning after a day trip to the southern Oregon coast. Highway 101 stretched out before us, guiding us home on a dark summer night. It was warm and quiet, but we felt itchy, like the day wasn’t yet done. Like an unknown adventure awaited us. We stopped at a deserted beach and ran toward the waves, barefoot through the cool dune sand. A crescent moon slipped down beneath the haystack rocks, disappearing into the sea. The Milky Way unfurled overhead, we were awash in stars. With the wonder of it all, we ran laughing into the waves, feeling the saltwater splash on our bare skin. We danced in the waves and on the wet sand. As we did, the thick, moist sand erupted into shooting blue sparks beneath our feet, azure fireworks exploding with each step.
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adventure
SEEKING THE MAGIC LIGHTS To go “star-stomping,” as the locals say, aim for late summer or early fall when upwellings are likely to occur. Ideally, pick a night with no moon or new moon, because Noctiluca are so small and emit such a brief flash of light, any other light will dilute your ability to see the bioluminescence. Several hours after sunset, find the darkest beach possible. Consider staying at a coastal campground such as Cape Blanco, Beverly Beach, Cape Lookout or Nehalem Bay state parks. The bioluminescence is equally visible on the northern and southern Oregon Coast, so location isn’t nearly as important as finding a beach away from city lights. Tiffany Boothe, Seaside Aquarium’s assistant manager, offered some tips: “Find yourself a very dark beach, and just drag your feet through the sand. Every once in a while, you’ll have a concentration in the bays. I know Nehalem Bay has had some concentrations where you could actually see it if you run your hands through the water.” She noted that she’s only seen bioluminescence that bright once in twenty years. Like the great joys of beachcombing or whale watching, the art of searching for bioluminescence is a little bit of science, a little bit of luck and a little bit of magic.
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FROM TOP Pockets of azure bioluminescence appear as exponential numbers of single, spherical-celled creatures grasp prey in the ocean near Oswald West State Park, off the coast of Manzanita. Huge blooms of plankton feed as ocean upwellings offer a buffet near Fort Stevens State Park in Astoria.
“Did you see that?” we both whispered. More tentative steps, each leaving a fleeting, glowing footprint behind. Imagine a beach sprinkled in fairy dust, fireflies and Fourth of July sparklers igniting the sea or a glowstick poured on the sand. We were off, running, giggling and stomping, whirling dervishes twirling, crazed grape-stompers drunk on our own wine with stars overhead and stars beneath our feet. Now, the science. A fairly straightforward explanation supports the natural phenomenon that leads to bioluminescence. The glowing blue lights we saw while dancing on the beach are caused by single-cell organisms called dinoflagellates. Eighteen genuses of plankton, sometimes called the “glitter of the sea,” can lead to bioluminescence, according to Oregon State University research associate Moritz Schmid. We likely frolicked in a huge bloom of Noctiluca scintillans that were attracted to surface waters after ocean upwellings brought their food to the top of the sea. Noctiluca, Latin for nightlight, are JULY | AUGUST 2021
translucent, their single spherical cell bearing tiny tentacles, or flagella, which propel these microscopic creatures through the ocean and help it grasp its prey. Occasionally, a complex series of events leads to ocean upwellings that prompted the bioluminescent spectacle. In simplified terms, wind pushes water off the surface, and cool, nutrient-rich water from below wells up to the surface to replace it. An upwelling bringing Noctiluca’s food to the sea’s surface can lead to extremely high concentrations of the tiny plankton, and they can turn the top of the ocean red in a phenomenon known as a red tide. Some organisms associated with red tides produce a toxin, but Noctiluca do not. Instead, they produce a chemical reaction using a light-emitting molecule called luciferin. This chemical reaction causes the bioluminescence sometimes visible along the Oregon Coast. Schmid said the bioluminescence is a predation deterrent, basically Noctiluca’s way of telling predators, “Don’t eat me!”
Silverton, Oregon 503-874-2500 | oregongardenresort.com
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Baymont Inn and Suites - Bremerton ** 360.362.0549 | wyndhamhotels.com
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Quality Inn and Suites - Silverdale 360.692.7777 | choicehotels.com
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Bainbridge Island Lodging & Hospitality ** destinationbainbridge.com
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Inn at Gig Harbor 800.795.9980 | innatgigharbor.com
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Comfort Inn on the Bay - Port Orchard ** 360.329.4051 | choicehotels.com
Red Lion Port Orchard ** 360.895.7818 | redlion.com
**Pet designates pet-friendly, fees and restrictions may apply
Har Rai Khalsa
lodging
Arch Cape Loft written by Jen Stevenson WINDING SOUTH down Highway 101 through the dense stretch of forest between Cannon Beach and Manzanita, it’s all too easy to miss the turnoff for this tranquil Arch Cape hideaway, which is of course, the whole point. Blending into the Oregon coast palette with its salt-washed shingle facade and floor-to-ceiling windows angled to catch every last lingering ocean view, the sevenstudio modern boutique hotel is a labor of love for architectural designer and surfer Vito Cerelli, who grew up just a few blocks away, in the sublimely sleepy coast-hugging community of tiny Arch Cape. A family affair, the thoughtfully crafted, three-story cedar-faced structure was built by Cerelli’s father, a longtime local contractor, while Cerelli’s wife, Rindi, runs the day-to-day operations. The hotel’s privacy-forward design means it’s possible to never see another soul in the stairwell, but you may bump into a kindred spirit in the parking lot while unloading your respective surfboards, or en route to the pristine neighborhood beach at the end of the lane, or grilling wild 84 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
salmon steaks and sipping a local microbrew on the communal ground-floor patio, also home to an oversized shuffleboard court. Sandwiched between Hug Point and Oswald West State Park, the hotel is perfectly positioned for embarking on outdoor adventures without a serious commute. Hike the Cape Falcon Trail or Neahkahnie Mountain Loop, go crabbing or clamming in Nehalem Bay, or get in a surf session at Short Sands Beach, and be back in time for your own private happy hour of freshly-shucked oysters and a bottle of Muscadet savored on your breezy balcony. Charming cafés, fish ’n’ chip shops, and craft breweries are plentiful in the aforementioned bordering towns and Nehalem, but should you be reluctant to leave your peaceful little beach bubble once you’re settled, plan on eating in. Pack in or pick up shellfish feasts along the way, toss a salad and warm up a fresh Sea Level Bakery baguette in your room’s kitchenette, pop open a bottle of Willamette Valley wine from Dixie’s Vino in Manzanita, slip on a Pendleton sweater, then head one block west to the beach for a summer picnic made for the logbooks. 31955 W. OCEAN LANE ARCH CAPE www.archcapeloft.com
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Kaitlin Green
Lodging
Har Rai Khalsa
ABOVE Surrounded by cedar and floor-to-ceiling windows, look out over the ocean and plan a leisurely day at the beach.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Arch Cape Loft’s careful design ensures guests hear only the sound of waves and seagulls. High ceilings elevate the style of a two-bedroom suite. The Pacific laps at the shore of quiet Arch Cape.
ROOMS The three-story hotel features six, 350-square-foot studios and a 750-square-foot, two-bedroom topfloor suite with vaulted ceilings and sweeping coast views. Floor-to-ceiling windows leading out onto private, south-facing balconies let in the coastal light. Smooth, white-oak floors and soft, wool rugs are cozy underfoot, walls are accented with milled red-cedar trim and local artwork, and an elegant Scandinavian-style design sense gives everything a bright, warm and modern feel.
FEATURES The tiny, laid-back enclave of Arch Cape is just the spot for privacy-loving outdoor enthusiasts who prefer peaceful unpaved ocean paths to busy beach-cruiser-crowded byways. It’s a short stroll from the hotel to the Pacific Ocean. Nod hello to the locals watching their pups play in the surf, then head south toward Arch Cape Creek to do some tidepool exploring or north to see the Hug Point Waterfall (alternately, meander through the oceanfront neighborhood, picking out your future beach house). Outdoor adventures from kayaking to crabbing abound—just ask loft maven Rindi Cerelli for insider tips on where to go and what to do.
DINING Part of Arch Cape’s quiet charm is the lack of amenities, so plan on seeking sustenance elsewhere. For breakfast, grab fresh-baked pastries and cappuccinos at Sea Level Bakery in Cannon Beach, or for a full brunch, order hearty three-egg scrambles and lemon ricotta pancake stacks from Yolk in Manzanita. Come lunchtime, Riverside Fish & Chips in Nehalem will satisfy that longing for fried cod or fish tacos. Afterward, hit neighboring Buttercup Ice Creams & Chowders for scoops of strawberry malt ice cream on vanilla bean cones, and pick up grilled spring salmon chowder for an easy dinner back at the loft. For old-school supper ambiance, it’s hard to beat Driftwood Restaurant and Lounge in Cannon Beach. Score a spot by the patio fire pit and savor a classic Dungeness crab cocktail, Oregon pink shrimp Louie salad and a juicy rib-eye steak.
Har Rai Khalsa
AMENITIES All studios are equipped with Nest smart entry systems for easy, no-contact accessibility, freestanding cast iron gas fireplaces by Norway-based Jøtul, spacious and sleek spa-inspired bathrooms with full-sized forest-scented bath products by Portland apothecary Maak Lab, plush Tempur-Pedic Cloud Luxe mattresses, free and fast wi-fi, and kitchenettes outfitted with a mini-refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave, essential cookware and dishware (the two-bedroom suite’s kitchen sports full-sized appliances and a dining table which seats eight).
Visit Tillamook Coast
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Pacific City for Kids
Resuming fun and creating new family traditions in a prime seaside setting written by Jenna McKenna
KIDS HAVE HAD a rough go during the past year. Free their minds and bodies with a long weekend at one of the Oregon Coast’s top playgrounds, Pacific City. Pacific City has the right mix of outdoor activities, ocean zen and adult retreat all in a small and walkable coastal warren.
Pacific City’s gentle waves, surf shop and restaurants offer an idyllic family getaway.
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The Little
Big Show
Opening Aug.6th
at galleries throughout Baker City, OR
more info at www.travelbakercounty.com
trip planner
Surfing at Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City is easy, with lessons and rentals nearby.
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trip planner
Day GET IN THE WATER • DUNE BUGGIES • BREWS There are many ways to get kids (and parents) moving in Pacific City. But why not jump back into the thrilling adventures as if 2020 never happened? Pacific City is one of the coast’s top spots for beginning surfers. It’s friendly and the waves are generally moderate and predictable with flat sandy bottoms, forgiving for repeated wipeouts along its beach break. The close-in beach break allows parents to keep close tabs on their oceanbound kids. Find everything you need at Moment Surf Shop just steps from the beach. Don’t forget to book your trip around ideal conditions for surfing available at www. surfline.com. Just being in the ocean, allowing the natural force of waves to move your body, is both calming and invigorating. There are other ways for kids to feel that energy. Moment also rents skimboards and bodyboards, which may be more accessible for younger kids to rider waves. Adrenaline arrives in many vehicles. Just a few miles north of Pacific City and Cape Kiwanda lies Sand Lake Recreational Area—more than 1,000 acres of sand dunes and prime territory for four-wheeled fun. Sandlake Tsunami ATV Rentals offers four-wheel ATVs and mini buggies for all. Off-Highway Vehicle permits are required but readily available in sporting goods stores and cost $10. To cap the end of a long and vigorous day, head to Pelican Brewing Company. Pelican Brewing has the best views and, arguably, brews among a competitive universe of Oregon brewers. Pelican Brewing has won many local, national and international beer awards and has a sustainable lens across all of its operations from carbon offset to local sourcing and water conservation that has driven more efficient brewing processes. Unlike other brew pubs that serve thoughtless calories, Pelican Brewing’s food stands nicely on its own. There are few more memorable family moments than sipping a well-earned craft beer on Pelican’s deck, watching the sun set over the ocean and recalling the day’s waves and sand.
Day
Visit Tillamook Coast
BEACHCOMBING • CRABBING The second day starts with the nerve of an early morning start. For young kids, it’s an early morning scavenger hunt done at low tide and low light. Check www.tideschart.com to divine the intersection of time and tide. If you have the supernatural ability to get your kids out the door before 6 JULY | AUGUST 2021
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EAT Doryland Pizza www.capekiwandarvresort.com/ Doryland_Pizza.html Grateful Bread Bakery www.gratefulbreadbakery.com Meridian at Headlands Lodge www.headlandslodge.com/ meridian Pelican Brewing Company www.pelicanbrewing.com
STAY Hart’s Camp www.hartscamp.com Headlands Coastal Lodge www.headlandslodge.com Inn at Cape Kiwanda www.innatcapekiwanda.com Surf & Sand Inn www.surfandsandinn.com
PLAY Beachcombing Clamming/crabbing Kite flying Sand-dune buggy driving Surfing/skimboarding
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Headlands Coastal Lodge
PACIFIC CITY, OREGON
trip planner
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Pelican Brewing has great brews and views. Beachcombing is free family fun. Meridian at Headlands Coastal Lodge focuses on local seafood, served in a stylish setting with views of Haystack Rock and the Pacific.
a.m., you will get first picks of what the sea has left at Pacific City’s doorstep overnight. Sand dollars, crab legs, velella (also called bythe-wind sailor or jellies, which are best left untouched), agates of all colors and rare glass floats (human-made orbs for fishing nets). This treasure hunt can go on for hours and best followed by a nap to recharge for the rest of the day. Another outing best performed in the morning is fishing or crabbing. Crabbing is far more productive and better suited for impatient kids and adults. Further, any Dungeness crabs of legal size (53/4 inches across the back) or larger are yours to keep, with the daily maximum being twelve males. Go to www. myodfw.com to learn the regulations and to find where to buy a permit. Shellfish permits are $10 for residents and $28 for non-residents. Netarts Bay, 15 miles north of Pacifc City, is one of the coastal Dungeness meccas. Netarts Bay RV Park & Marina rents the gear you need to get out and catch your dinner. If your lodging has its own kitchen, there are few better things than preparing your handcaught Dungeness crab sauteed in butter and served with a fresh salad and baguette. The Oregon Crab Commission has many recipes of varying complexity on its website. There’s an appealing hands-on educational aspect and Oregon Coast rite of passage in teaching kids how to clean crabs on their own. JULY | AUGUST 2021
If you want to put your catch on ice and save it for home, where you can prepare it in a more elaborate way, try Doryland Pizza or Meridian Restaurant & Bar at Headlands Coastal Lodge, where they specialize in local farms and fish. Meridian offers another gorgeous ocean view from a stylish setting, a rare combination on the Oregon Coast.
Day FLYING HIGH • BITES Before bidding adieu to the coast, capture the morning breeze and your sense of simple pleasures with a kite. Catch the Wind, a local kite shop since 1979 has sport and single-line kites for the family. Put yourself in the place of the kite and look out over the Pacific Ocean, the towering monolith of Haystack Rock, the early surfers in shadow and the feeling of releasing your kids back into a better rhythm. Then head directly to Grateful Bread Bakery for assorted Grateful Dead-themed scrambles such as Fire on the Mountain, with eggs, jalapenos, chiles, onions and mushrooms or Truckin’ with eggs, zucchini, ham, mushrooms and onions. If your drive is a long one, take local dory-caught tuna sandwiches for the road. What a long, and strangely normal trip it’s been.
IS EVERYTHING R ECR E AT E R E S P O N SIBLY
Explore the landscape beyond Glacier National Park and discover year-round adventures in Western Montana’s charming small towns and scenic travel corridors. Plan ahead, play it safe, and leave no trace. RecreateResponsiblyMT.com
ORDER YOUR FREE TRAVEL GUIDE
GlacierMT.com | #GlacierMT
Photos: Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development
northwest destination
Basecamp for a Bitterroot Adventure A journey’s end in Hamilton, Montana, will be bittersweet written by Daniel Murphy
SOMETIMES THE HEART wanders and lusts and finds itself at the doorway of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness in a tiny Montana town called Hamilton. Located on the western border of the state and with a population of less than 5,000, Hamilton may be known to some vampire movie buffs as the setting for Vampire Academy’s St. Vladimir’s Academy. To the rest of us, it’s a quintessential small town with big access to the outdoors and trails for hiking and cycling. Just south of town mountain bikers and adventurous gravel riders can hit the 21-mile Buttercup Loop with nearly 2,800 feet of climbing. Road bikers have stunning options in the Bitterroot Valley. Surrounded by mountains and generational farms, a 50mile paved surface stretches north to Missoula with many small towns along the route. Do it as an out-and-back century or start in Missoula with Hamilton and the burger destination of Naps Grill, with eighteen local taps, on your agenda. 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Hikers and trail runners should put the Blodgett Canyon to Waterfall trail on their to do list. This 9-mile out and back with 980 feet of elevation gain is stunning throughout. Canyon Creek Trail is a little more challenging at 11 miles out and back and 3,500 feet of vertical gain, but worth the effort with another waterfall. In the Bitterroot National Forest and the Sapphire Mountains, gravel bikers, hikers and trail runners will be well rewarded. Fly-fishing in Montana is a pipe dream for many anglers. The Bitterroot River runs through the valley and 80 miles north from Connor to Missoula. Known as one of the best dry fly rivers in Montana, the Bitterroot swims with cutthroat, brown and rainbow trout. When it comes to dining, the small size of Hamilton is not a compromise. The Hamilton farmers’ market runs from May to October and teems with baked goods, berries, pies, honey
HAMILTON, MONTANA
northwest destination
EAT Bitter Root Brewing www.bitterrootbrewing.com Montana Made Coffee www.facebook.com Naps Grill www.napsgrill.com Seppi’s European Deli and Market www.facebook.com Taste of Paris www.facebook.com Westslope Distillery www.westslopedist.com
STAY Angler’s Lodge and Cabins www.anglerslodgemt.com Bitterroot River Inn www.bitterrootriverinn.com Downing Mountain Lodge www.downingmtlodge.com
PLAY Blodgett Canyon to Waterfall hike/run www.alltrails.com Eric Melzer Photography
Canyon Creek Trail www.visitbitterrootvalley.com/ location/canyon-creek-trail Daly Mansion www.dalymansion.org Fly-fishing on Bitterroot River www.visitbitterrootvalley.com/fishing
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Hiking the Blodgett Canyon Overlook Trail is easy and gives views for miles of its glacially carved granite-gem namesake. Hamilton’s dining scene serves up diverse cuisines, from Polish and Italian to French and Spanish, while Daly Days July 30 and 31 explodes with Americana and dancing in the street. On Saturdays, the local farmers’ market is known for sweet bounty, from pies and honey to blue skies, under which a kind, inclusive mood reigns. The Bitterroot River is a top-notch destination for fly-fishing.
and jams. The restaurant scene is surprisingly robust considering the size of Hamilton. Bitter Root Brewery & Pub is one of the oldest craft breweries in Montana and has honed its craft over the years. Seppi’s European Market & Deli serves a creative rotation of dishes such as Austrian mac ‘n’ cheese, Polish potato casserole and house-made lasagna. For killer sandwiches and salads, go to Bouilla, a creative sandwicherie on 3rd Street. Taste of Paris is yet another unexpected culinary delight. Chef Peter Ribera makes ratatouille and other French and Spanish classic dishes in a small, intimate setting on 4th Street. If you’re in town on October 2, check out the town’s McIntosh Apple Day (known as the Biggest Bake Sale under Big Sky) when apples are baked into every incarnation known, sold along the street festival. Day two of the festival adds the revelry of Liquid Apple Night after 5 p.m, an evening when hard apple cider flows in an intoxicatingly beautiful town.
Hamilton Farmers’ Market www.hamiltonfarmersmarket.org Hamilton to Missoula cycling www.visitbitterrootvalley.com/cycling Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness www.fs.usda.gov
Fly-fishing in Montana is a pipe dream for many anglers. Known as one of the best dry fly rivers in Montana, the Bitterroot swims with cutthroat, brown and rainbow trout.
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
20 Wild Folk Flower Apothecary
48 eWind Solutions
78
MountNbarreL Tours
26 Coffee or Waffle
50 The Grove Market Hall
80
Cape Blanco State Park
27 Downtown Market Co.
52 Deschutes River Conservancy
84
Arch Cape Loft
28 Duyck Family Farm
54 Breezy Anderson
86
Pacific City
44 The Studio Northwest
56 Brew Dr.
92
Hamilton, Montana
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Joseph
Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive
LIVE THINK EXPLORE
(541) 385-3062
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Until Next Time Morning on Three Fingered Jack in the Cascades. photo by Brandon Nixon
