TRIP PLANNER: EUGENE PG. 86
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EX PERIENCE T HE DELIGHTS OF OREGON ’S FOOD T RAILS
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volume 68
NASA. Apollo 11. You. Your place in history starts right here.
And you don’t have to make a trip around the moon to discover it. Claim your stake at Discovery West, a mixed-use community alive with the spirit of exploration, with nearby schools, parks, trails, shopping and more. This once in a lifetime opportunity is just waiting for you. Discover your own personal space at discoverywestbend.com or visit our Discovery Pod, open daily, at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.
Jo
In communities across Oregon, passionate food lovers plotted these self-guided food trails to showcase the freshest local offerings of farmers, fishers, brewers and chefs around the state. Discover them all at oregonfoodtrails.com Joshua Rainey Photography
Molly Kubista does beadwork, which she learned from Native people in Warm Springs when she was a teenager.
Ancestral Art photography by Charlotte Dupont After decades gaining a reputation for her folk art and crafts, Native American artist Molly Kubista is focusing on art expressing her peoples’ fight for redemption. She does this using her totems, horse and butterfly, depicted on pages from store ledgers from the 1800s. (pg. 42) 2 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 3
FEATURES MAY | JUNE 2021 • volume 68
66 Spiritual Sojourn Ramble across Oregon, raising a glass to these entrepreneurial, destination-worthy craft distillers with potent futures. written by Vanessa Salvia
72 D’oh! Donuts The colors of Mikiko mochi donuts pop on the page, and you’ll want to pop them into your mouth. Flavors range from POG (passion-orange-guava) and Thai tea with condensed coconut milk to smoked-pineapple-filled. photography by Emily Joan Greene
58 Food Forays
Tambi Lane
Follow these food trails from the Pacific to the mountains to the desert to satisfy a hunger for world-class food, landscapes and to meet the folks who make it happen. Glimpse what lies ahead down the road, what’s in season, where to stay and planning your journey. Happy trails.
4
written by Cathy Carroll
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DEPARTMENTS MAY | JUNE 2021 • volume 68
LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK
Our picks for the quirky and cool. Portland bedroom-pop artist’s Quarantunes, a work from lockdown, an acclaimed Portland author’s prescient novel about a sleep epidemic.
22 FOOD + DRINK
34
Killing the “Portland is burning” narrative on a Beerlandia tour. Dive into a lavender haze with this cocktail recipe. Challah out for great bakeries, artisan and fresh meats and a thriving restaurant group committed to sustainable Northwest inspired cuisine in Eugene.
26 FARM TO TABLE
A fourth-generation family mint farm diversifies with artisan peppermint. Recipes with mint perfect for the season.
34 HOME + DESIGN
A traditional 1920s bungalow gets a svelte update, a lackluster ’60s “box” shines with new, crafted details and new lighting designs, too.
40 MIND + BODY Crosby Dove
Art therapy helps people function better and to boost their sense of well-being. Using the creative process to help you reach goals isn’t simply about drawing pretty pictures. A free resource offers virtual studio sessions, a place to create and find community.
42 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Library of Congress, LC-B2- 2668-6 [P&P], Bain News Service Photograph collection
This artist and member of the Samish Indian Nation is ready to shift her focus from years of making folk art, jewelry and doing beadwork, to new works on paper from the 1800s.
THINK 46 STARTUP
A historic building in Astoria’s Riverwalk District will be the Astoria Food Hub, allowing centralized processing, storage and distribution for local, small-scale farmers, fisherfolk and ranchers. Local investors are helping to make it happen.
48 WHAT’S GOING UP
Luxury hotels are coming out of quarantine, from Seaside’s new upscale SaltLine Hotel to The Gordon in Eugene to the Northwest’s first Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Portland.
50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
80
USDA Forest Service
Ximena Orrego of Atticus Wine talks about her path from Peru to Yamhill and Raices Unidas, Hispanic winemakers in Oregon giving back to the Hispanic viticulture community.
52 MY WORKSPACE
82 12 13 94 96
Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time
The guy behind the award-winning, tricked-out tricycles built in Portland and customized for peddling wares such as books, flowers and ice cream for local and far-flung customers.
54 GAME CHANGER
The woman leading Meyer Memorial Trust and its largest initiative, Justice Oregon for Black Lives, from a new headquarters in North Portland.
EXPLORE 80 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
The exhibit “Nevertheless, They Persisted: Women’s Voting Rights and the 19th Amendment,” in Portland.
82 ADVENTURE
Somewhere between the perfect singletrack, meatloaf to die for, an imperial stout and locally roasted coffee, we realized this was not the Corvallis of our college days.
84 LODGING
Unplug for a spring reset, soaking under the stars at natural hot springs southeast of Burns. Teepee glamping, private soaking tubs and the “lobster pot pond” beckon.
COVER
86 TRIP PLANNER
photo by Emily Joan Greene (see D’oh! Donuts, pg. 72)
Feel the buzz at Hayward Field, which has the U.S. Olympic Trials starting out of the blocks June 18 to 27.
92 NW DESTINATION
It’s time to take in Seattle’s iconic places, with renewed appreciation.
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VANESSA SALVIA Writer Spiritual Sojourn
EMILY TRIGGS Photographer Farm to Table
I’m a simple traveler. Give me some natural beauty, tasty food and beverages, a collection of dive bars with a little bit of character, and I’m all yours. Corvallis, where have you been all my life? Mountain biking near Alsea Falls, beers at Block 15, farm-to-table food from Bellhop, late-night beers at Squirrel’s Tavern—a weekend adventure to the home of the Beavers is a dam good time. (pg. 82)
I’ve walked past Icicle Tricycles in Portland’s Chinatown District many times, and, surprisingly, I’ve never noticed it. I think owner Ryan Hashagen prefers it that way. Spending a few hours with Ryan, I learned he’s not just passionate about all things bike-related, but he’s also quite the adventurer. He’s currently on a quest to canoe every river in the Pacific Northwest. I had a great time taking images of his amazing bikes. I particularly appreciated the library bike and his impressive choice of books to complement it! (pg. 52)
Reporting the Spiritual Sojourn feature made me thirsty! From barrel-aged, herbal-forward gins, to rye vodka and whiskey made from local wheat, these spirits are as much a mark of Oregon entrepreneurial spirit and terroir as the wines and beer we are known for. Reporting this story came with a mini history lesson about the Oregon Country’s pioneer days and how a distiller named Ewing Young changed Oregon’s future—I had no idea. (pg. 66)
Winding country roads in Clatskanie led me to Mike Seely’s fourth-generation mint farm, a rare holdout of family farming in the state. Oregon was once flush with mint farmers, but now Seely’s is one of the very few that remain because of the growth of synthetic mint oils. It was a pleasure to learn about the growing and processing of mint, the industry, and taste testing their handmade mint candy wasn’t so bad either. (pg. 26)
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WE COMMUTE BY CURRENT
Three rivers and seven wilderness areas meet in Missoula, Montana, a small town with big personality and unbeatable outdoor recreation. A place where you’ll find murals downtown and mountains in the distance, and “easy access” is an understatement when it comes to nature. The kind of place where we float rivers by day and sip beer flights by night—and don’t even get us started on the food scene (spoiler, it’s incredible). Put simply, Missoula is a place of experiences, and you’ll just have to experience it for yourself.
CLARK FORK RIVER, DOWNTOWN MISSOULA
Travel Safely. Explore Responsibly. Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1859 for more information.
EDITOR-AT-LARGE Kevin Max
MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye
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Crosby Dove, Charlotte Dupont, Robert Eckhardt, Emily Joan Greene, Jason Hill, Tambi Lane, Robin Loznak, Emily Triggs
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FROM THE
EDITOR-AT-LARGE WHO HAS THE time to get in the car and head out around the state with little else besides a plan to hit the state’s food trails and best craft distilleries? Yes, that’s what we’re doing in this issue of 1859. In Food Forays on pg. 58, Cathy Carroll takes us on a well-informed tour of Oregon’s freshest food trails. Under development for the past few years, food trails include centralized markets and mapped farm locations of the region’s notable foods—from line-caught fish on the Oregon Coast to pears and apricots along the East Gorge Food Trail in the Columbia Gorge. Now is the time to take advantage of the state’s incredible bounty. There is good overlap of the food trails and the state’s best craft distilleries. Mix the two together or have the distillery destinations served up neat for you. Writer Vanessa Salvia takes us through nine notable craft distilleries from Ewing Young Distillery in Newberg to Glacier 45 Distillery in Baker City and more in between on a ramble that will likely add new Oregon favorites to your liquor cabinet. See Spiritual Sojourn, pg. 66. It’s hard to believe that track and field is back at Hayward Field after its own construction quarantine. Already the new Hayward has hosted one major track and field event as we approach the U.S. Olympic Trials in June. In Trip Planner on pg. 86, we go back to Eugene to find
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major upgrades from an art-inspired new boutique hotel to a transformative riverfront project and the impressive new Hayward, as Eugene presses its claim as one of America’s most wellrounded cities. While Hayward was being built to provide a stage for the world’s greatest runners, jumpers and throwers, Michelle DePass, president and CEO of Meyer Memorial Trust was building a stronger foundation for people of color in Oregon. DePass and the Trust took the bold step of creating a $25 million Justice Oregon for Black Lives, a five-year initiative to make a difference in the lives of Oregon’s Black people. DePass has the life experience and the passion for this task. Read her story on pg. 54. If you’re still feeling trapped, isolated and a bit depressed from the effects of quarantine, try art therapy. Mary Andrus has been working with different communities for years in developing a program that allows anyone to improve mental health through creative processes. See Mind + Body on pg. 40. Finish the day with the dessert you deserve. Combine the elan of spring and the comfort of a cocktail with a Lavender Haze from Ruddick/ Wood in Newberg (Cocktail Card on pg. 22). Scan the QR code for Maria DeHart’s new oddly uplifting Quarantunes on pg. 18 and listen as you perfect this cocktail before showcasing it on Mother’s Day.
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A NEW WAY TO SHOP Stop by Local, our new curated online shop of cool goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find home décor, jewelry, specialty foods and more. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop
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A rock formation off Devil’s Punchbowl on the Oregon Coast.
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 13
NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 26 HOME + DESIGN 34 MIND + BODY 40
pg. 34 Give your kitchen a spring fling.
Kaitlin Green
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 42
notebook
Tidbits + To-dos
Northwest Women’s Surf Camps Learning to surf is as much about empowerment, connection and transformation as it is about standing on a board on a wave at Northwest Women’s Surf Camps in Cannon Beach, said Lexie Hallahan, director. Women-only surfing and bodyboarding day camps, two-day surf weekend immersions for women and teen girls, coed group lessons, parent and kid camps, and other options begin May 29. Get stoked watching their new video series “Surf Stoked—A Woman’s Perspective on NW Surfing.” www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com
CA mark LE you ND r AR
Fishtrap Virtual Writers’ Workshops
Leni Zumas
MOsley WOtta
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
Enterprise’s thirty-fourth summer Fishtrap writing workshops will be virtual, July 12 to 18. Each is limited to thirteen participants, letting you connect with worldclass instructors and fellow writers. Topics range from “Cultivating a Resilient Writing Practice—Fiction” with nationally acclaimed author Leni Zumas, director of the master’s of fine arts program at Portland State University, to “How to Not Run Away Screaming or The Art of Listening to Our Inspiration, Even When We Don’t Like What We Hear” for teens, with multimedia artist and writer MOsley WOtta of Bend. www.fishtrap.org
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Coconut Bliss We’re willing to bet there isn’t anyone who wouldn’t want something called Cups of Joy. These singleserve ice cream cups from Eugene-based Coconut Bliss might remind you of the individual-size treats you got from the ice cream truck as a kid, but these are all grown up—in a good way. They’re plant-based, and the flavors, sultry dark chocolate and creamy Madagascan vanilla bean, are small enough to put in your pocket so you can add joy anywhere. www.coconutbliss.com
notebook
ca mark le you nd r ar Oregon Bach Festival
Jurgen Frank
More than fifteen free, virtual Oregon Bach Festival events are set for June 25 through July 11. Performances include: nine-time Grammy Awardwinner Emerson String Quartet; cello suites from Matt Haimovitz, declared a “remarkable virtuoso” by The New Yorker and spirituals and bel canto arias from international opera star Lawrence Brownlee. Activist-pianist Lara Downes presents “Phenomenal Women” and an ode to the unexpected beauty and tranquil melancholy of a deserted cityscape sheltering in place. Portland’s 45th Parallel Universe offers chamber concerts, too. www.oregonbachfestival.org
Get a big dose of quirkiness and community at this space in the Underground Building on 10th Street and Marine Drive in Astoria. The late Michael Foster, a teacher, school librarian, artist, and art collector created the basement space. Former student Kirsten Norgaard, owner of Kits Apothecary and co-owner of Foragers, took up the torch. The collective offers a creative space, art gallery, medical and functional mushroom tinctures, Turkish coffee, herbal infusions and more coast-based vendors. www.facebook.com/ hiddenundergroundexperience
Adrian Chitty
Hidden Underground Experience
A to Z Wineworks and Rex Hill Take in art while sipping wine at Rex Hill’s rebuilt tasting room, with views of the Newberg vineyards, forests and the Dundee Hills through floor-to-ceiling, moving window walls and from the partially-covered, heated outdoor patio. Parent company A to Z Wineworks’ 2021 artist-in-residence, abstract painter Hadley Hatcher, is on a pandemic furlough from the music industry in Los Angeles. The daughter of two of the winery’s co-founders, Hatcher grew up in the wine industry, occasionally skipping classes at Newberg High School to clean barrels. www.rexhill.com www.atozwineworks.com
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notebook
Musician
Maria DeHart’s unhurried style lets her songs bloom slowly and beautifully.
The Sound of Staying In
Portland bedroom-pop artist Maria DeHart’s EP Quarantunes, a work from lockdown written by Ben Salmon
Michael James Lee
IN THE SPRING of 2020, when the world went into lockdown because of Covid, Maria DeHart saw an opportunity. “It was terrible for a lot of reasons, of course, but there was a part of it that was good for me, because I was able to put all my focus on my music for a couple of months,” she said. “I got to treat (the music) like a full-time job, because I didn’t have a full-time job anymore.” The result is DeHart’s new EP, Quarantunes, four songs she wrote and recorded within the first several weeks of lockdown, she said. A “go, go, go” person by nature, DeHart had been playing gigs in Portland regularly since moving from Virginia in 2019. With live music halted and no shows on her schedule, she hunkered down and concentrated on songwriting and getting better at home-recording and production. “It seemed like a good time to switch gears (from playing live to the creative process), and I think you can hear that,” DeHart said. “I think these are the most honest and lyrically focused songs that I’ve written. I worked super hard on them and put a lot of thought into them.” Generally speaking, the songs on Quarantunes are slow, pretty and introspective, with titles like “In My Head” and “Stuck in Place.” They’re built around DeHart’s winsome alto and some languid guitar playing, with drums to keep the beat and keyboards draping the whole EP in a dreamy haze. As a songwriter, DeHart seems to have an endless supply of memorable melodies and an unhurried style which allows her songs to bloom slowly and beautifully. “Those songs came from a very particular time, when everything was closed and everyone was home,” she says. “The world felt very quiet.” DeHart started playing in bands as a teenager at college in Charlottesville, Virginia, and she has been a regular presence on the Portland scene, both as a solo artist and playing with Olivia Awbrey and the band Bug Seance. When asked about her 18
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Listen on Spotify
influences, she promptly names like-minded singer-songwriters like Emily Yacina, Tomberlin and Phoebe Bridgers—“good, strong women artists,” she said. Like DeHart, each of those women makes music that knows where it’s going and how to get there, at exactly the right pace. “I want to make music that people find relaxing, that makes them think, and that’s relatable,” DeHart said. “That’s the most important thing: if people can listen to my songs and find something they can relate to, then I’m happy.”
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Bibliophile
Perchance to Dream Author Karen Russell on sleep, geography, creative childrearing and a prescient novel
Michael Lionstar
notebook
interview by Eric Flowers
PORTLAND AUTHOR Karen Russell’s eclectic and eccentric fiction is a melange of styles and characters. Her 2008 debut novel, Swamplandia, was a finalist for the Pulitzer Prize. The novel is set in her home state of Florida, but her adopted state is cropping up in her fiction, which has elements of fantasy, suspense, horror and science fiction. Her most current work is a re-release of her novella, Sleep Donation, which imagines a world suffering from an insomnia epidemic in which sleep can be donated—but not without risk. Nightmares infect the waning supply of sleep. Russell finished a new appendix that includes illustrated outbreak maps inspired by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The timing was accidental, but the parallels are undeniable. How did you come to think of sleep as a commodity? Dreams seem to me to be the most honest communication a body can have with itself—in addition to being the most terrifying, the most surprising, the wildest. Sleep can feel like a revolutionary stasis in our world where we translate every minute into profit, where we are encouraged to conceive of ourselves as parts and labor. When you look at what is already on the marketplace, it doesn’t seem like such a leap to imagine sleep becoming yet another product, whose distribution patterns are a map of inequality. The book was completed before the coronavirus pandemic, but its premise of a world suffering from a global epidemic seems prescient. How do you view this coincidence? This novella has had such a strange life—it was published as an e-book in 2014, disappeared for several years, and then got re-released this year as a paperback original by the 20
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Karen Russell created a novel about a sleep epidemic just before the pandemic.
wonderful team at Vintage. I was so happy that Sleep Donation would be back in the world, and I worked with the Italian artists Ale + Ale on what I was calling the ‘Nightmare Appendix,’ a sort of riff on a CDC brochure. It has a nightmare contagion map, where you can watch the spread of several virulent dreams and locate your nearest sleep quarantine station. We added new art and some new material and finished work on the book just before lockdown last year. Suddenly we were going to the CDC website for information about our own pandemic. It was a kind of ontological whiplash. Your first novel, Swamplandia, was set in your home state of Florida. Now that you’re in Portland, do you see a place for Oregon as a character in your work? Which is to say are we weird enough? I am continually humbled here, by the scale of this West. And the kindness of its inhabitants. And
strangeness too. Some of the stories in my collection Orange World are set in Oregon—one in a haunted ski lodge near Government Camp, and one in an imaginary version of my southeast Portland neighborhood. So I know this place is becoming my home, because it’s showing up in my fiction. You are a married mother of two young children. Can you talk about the challenges of balancing married life, motherhood and writing? I didn’t realize, before kids, that violently contradictory emotions can become your baseline state. Now, when I’m supposed to be writing, I just want to be with my son and baby daughter, I take breaks to watch videos of them. A friend said, ‘It’s like your heart walking around outside of your body.’ And then when I’m with them during the day, planning to write after they go to bed, sometimes I’m tailgating nightfall. Sometimes I guiltily think, ‘Please, sleep!’ I need to return to that imaginary world.
everyone needs to explore seaside’s prom centennial! Can you find the reasons? There’s lots to see and do!
P U U O M O Z B L Q K Z H O O P J W T D R K D N V J W U N Q F P
B U E J H S Q X V V S U G F T H
R A M V M C S A L T W O R K S E
S Y L L I T E L B I R R E T Y L
Q E S D E L J U N B S A U Y B C
B W I S E K G G X A G N S L U I
K Z N F S A N J N J R R D F B O
E U J W L J G D T B A U M E W D
S H I K E E D L U R Y T D T Y W
F N M K Q O S M E R W S Y I S Q
G S I G L Y K U U S H U K K Z F
B R Z L O T A L E G A O S I N R
H I A P J D Y G Q M L M P H Y W
Z R K R I C A M D Y E A O I T Y
S R L E V I K S M J S F W L V O
SEE: SALT WORKS TERRIBLE TILLY GRAY WHALES SAND DOLLARS BALD EAGLES SUNSETS
Searching for some fun? Come help us celebrate the Centennial of the Seaside Prom! That’s right, it’s been 100 years since our grand Promenade first graced a mile and a half of our beachfront. Be sure to pick up your Centennial Booklet full of treasure hunts, trivia and four chances to win an epic Seaside getaway!
DO: BIKE SWING KITE FLY HIKE KAYAK GELATO SELFIES
Alsea Falls Recreation Site
EXECUTION: PROM CENTENNIAL WORD SEARCH 1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL FILE NAME: seaside_1859_8.25x5.06_prom-centennial-word-search.indd PUB: 1859 FINAL TRIM SIZE: 8.25” wide x 5.06” tall
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Undiscovered art. Undiscovered innovation. Undiscovered tastes.
Undiscovered
Explore sixty miles of hiking and biking paths. Spot osprey and eagles at a national wildlife refuge. Cool down where a quiet creek becomes a 30-foot waterfall.
visitcorvallis.com/trails 800.334.8118
Come visit Corvallis and discover what you’ve been missing.
food + drink
recipe courtesy of Nic Trombetta and Andrew Creighton of Ruddick/ Wood, Newberg
Lavender Haze • 1½ oz Aria Gin • ¾ oz local lavender simple syrup • ¾ oz fresh lemon juice • 1 egg white • Ice FOR THE SIMPLE SYRUP • 1 cup sugar Combine all ingredients except for the ice and shake vigorously until frothy. Add ice and shake again. Strain into a coupe. Garnish with a local lavender sprig. FOR THE SIMPLE SYRUP Combine a cup of water with the sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer while stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Cool to room temperature.
Portland’s Brewing, Not Burning written by Beau Eastes LET’S KILL THE “Portland is burning” narrative right here. Yes, Stumptown is changing, as any dynamic and modern city should. But Portland still oozes creativity and innovation, it still embraces anyone willing to think outside the box, and it still finds ways to surprise and inspire. Especially in the city’s perpetually evolving beer scene. We here at Beerlandia recently took up the cause of exploring everything new, awesome and funky coming out of Portland’s craft beer scene in the hopes of shattering the notion that the city is essentially RoboCop’s dystopian Detroit with bike lanes. Here’s what we found: HELLES YES TO WAYFINDER: Is anyone in the state making better beer than Wayfinder Beer on SE 2nd? Their helles, the Wayfinder Hell, won silver at the 2019 Great American Beer Festival and their CZAF Czech-style pilsner is the poster child for the perfect Zoom-with-buddies beer. Best of all, their Relapse Cold IPA may or may not have caused a small civil war within the beer community on whether or not it’s a new style. It’s delicious and we approve of the chaos. PERHAPS—NO, DEFINITELY—A GREAT NOTION: We’ve been in love with Great Notion since they stole our heart at Bend Brewfest in 2019 with their Blueberry Muffin sour, their Double Stack imperial breakfast stout that tasted unbelievably like pancakes, and Juice Jr., possibly the best West Coast example of a New England IPA. And in a spark of Covid ingenuity, Great Notion now delivers to certain parts of the state. GIGANTIC’S ROBOT ROOM: Any brewery that doubles down on its city and opens a second space during the middle of a global pandemic will forever have a beer in our fridge. Gigantic Brewing’s Robot Room serves as the taproom at the new Rocket Empire Machine food hall that opened in Portland’s Montavilla neighborhood last August. We can confirm that Gigantic’s Sassy Pony Pale Ale makes for fine day-drinking,
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Orion Landau
Cocktail Card
Beerlandia
MAY | JUNE 2021
FROM TOP Settle in for great brews at Wayfinder Beer. Great Notion’s Double Stack imperial breakfast stout tastes unbelievably like pancakes. Prey + Tell’s Cambodian fried chicken.
especially on Rocket Empire Machine’s outdoor patio space. Portland’s craft beer crowd is hardly the only local industry finding ways to shine right now. Downtown hotels are right there with them, and we stayed at Hotel Lucia, the perfect jumping off point for adventures in the northwest (Great Notion), inner eastside (Wayfinder) and outer northeast (Robot Empire Machine). In addition to offering a happy hour beer of your choice during non-pandemic times, the hotel will store bikes you bring or you can ride one from their fleet. We ate as well as ever in Portland, gorging ourselves on Cambodian fried chicken at Prey + Tell, the new food concept at the Psychic Bar on Mississippi, jump-starting the weekend with Bloody Marys at an old favorite, the Leaky Roof in Goose Hollow and concluding the trip with a night of cocktails, gnocchi and pinsa style pizza—think delicious—along with perfectly executed flatbreads at Montesacro in the Pearl District. By the end of our trip, we’d eaten, drank and biked our way through a multitude of Portland neighborhoods, exhilarated by the ingenuity and optimism we found at nearly every place we went. We can’t wait to get back.
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The Source Weekly
3/26/21 10:57 AM
Lauren Sharp
food + drink
CRAVINGS: CHALLAH
KACHKA LAVKA Experience James Beard Award nominated chef Bonnie Morales’ delightful old-country style challah bread at her latest endeavor, Kachka Lavka. As the owner of Portland’s famous Kachka restaurant, Morales’ offers Russian baked goods to go and pantry staples, too.
Gastronomy
Cason’s Fine Meats in Portland’s Alberta District is a dream realized for Theotis Cason, who has worked meat counters at nearly every Fred Meyer in the area since the early ’70s.
Cason’s Fine Meats written by Lauren Sharp THEOTIS CASON is not new to the world of meat. As the owner and operator of Cason’s Fine Meats in Portland’s Alberta District, he’s blending his passion for the craft of butchering with offering affordable, high-quality foods to serve his community. Since the early ’70s, Cason has been working behind the meat counter at small and large shops. After serving at nearly every Fred Meyer meat counter in the Portland area, he was ready to go out on his own. Cason recalls the moment early in his career when he set his sights on owning his own butcher shop. “In 1974, I put in a request to take a few days off to attend a large family reunion. The request was denied by my employer at the time, and, to this day, I think about that missed opportunity to visit with my extended family,” he said. “It was at that moment I realized I wanted the flexibility of owning my own shop and appreciated the value of a business that cares about people.” Cason realized his vision in 2018 when he opened his original shop in the Kenton District. After about three years he moved into the current storefront located at NE Alberta and NE Martin Luther King, Jr. Boulevard. “I’m excited about the visibility of our shop,” Cason said. “I love the idea of folks from our neighborhood being able to easily stop by after work, grab dinner, and head home to share it with their friends and family.” While Cason has spent most of his life in the Portland metro area, his food draws influences from Southern cooking. He sells his own dry rubs, sweet and spicy barbecue sauces and marinades. He offers the standard country ribs and bone-in pork chops, plus house-made sausages and seasoned cuts, an easy dinein option. Cason’s committed to carrying products that are sustainable and locally sourced. “I try to source meats as close to my shop as I can, without dramatically increasing my prices,” said Cason. “I feel it’s really important that people can access highquality, yet affordable meats—especially during the current economic climate.” The mural adjacent to the shop depicts him with his relatives, illustrating what he values most—great food, and family to share it with. 5015 NE MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR. BLVD PORTLAND www.casonsfinemeats.com
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960 SE 11TH AVE. PORTLAND www.kachkapdx.com/meals-grocery
BARRY’S ESPRESSO BAKERY & DELI Longing for a traditional New York Deli experience? Have no fear, Barry’s Espresso Bakery & Deli serves up Jewish-American classics in the heart of Eugene. Regulars applaud their daily baked challah bread for it’s freshness and authenticity. 2805 OAK ST. EUGENE www.barrys-eugene.business.site
CANNON BEACH BAKERY This quaint coastal bakery has been serving brick-oven baked breads for generations. Founded in 1936, Cannon Beach Bakery specializes in hand-crafted baked goods, including an unforgettable challah, ideal to eat plain or use for a fruittopped French toast. 240 N HEMLOCK ST. CANNON BEACH www.cannonbeachbakery.com
NEW MORNING BAKERY Challah is one of this family-owned bakery’s staples. Options include a traditional braided loaf with raisins, plus custom-shaped loaves for holidays and special occasions at both locations in Corvallis and Dallas. 219 SW SECOND ST. CORVALLIS 788 MAIN ST. DALLAS www.newmorningbakery.com
BEST PLACES FOR
PICCONE’S CORNER Get the complete farm-to-table experience at Piccone’s Corner. This Italian-inspired butcher shop, restaurant and bar offers freshly cut and cured meats, with all pork sourced from their property, Wallow & Root Pasture Farm and lamb, beef and chicken from nearby farms. They also sit squarely at the corner of old-world Italian classics and the Northwest, with items such as garganelli with pork and nduja (think spicey, Calabrian) ragu and a roasted chicken with grilled rapini, turnips and herb puree. 3434 NE SANDY BLVD. PORTLAND www.picconescorner.com
Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
ARTISAN AND FRESH MEATS
Sourcing from small, local farms with sustainable agricultural practices is integral to the Party Eugene restaurant group.
Dining
Party
written by Lauren Sharp
Looking to grab a fresh, juicy porterhouse steak? In the heart of sunny Medford, this neighborhood meat market offers beef cuts ranging from prime to natural, grass-fed from regional farms, plus game meats, including fresh venison, elk and bison.
MARK KOSMICKI and Tiffany Norton love food. As co-owners of the Party Eugene restaurant group, they bring delicious and sustainable Northwest inspired cuisine to the Eugene food scene with Party Downtown, Party Bar and Party On Friendly. The endeavor came from humble beginnings. Starting as a small food cart in South Eugene, Kosmicki and Norton focused on crafting high-quality food and sharing their passion for hospitality. Kosmicki attributes much of their success to the local community embracing their values as well as their food and promoting the restaurant by word of mouth. Sourcing from small, local farms with sustainable agricultural practices is integral to Party’s values and the inspiration for their menus. Almost all ingredients are seasonal and come from the southern Willamette Valley. Fan favorites include the lamb meatloaf sandwich, made with Fair Valley Farms meat and locally milled wheat brioche bun, and Totem Farms brined and roasted chicken breast. Eugene is surrounded by farms, so Kosmicki and Norton set out to use locally grown produce almost exclusively. Caring about the treatment of the livestock and the relationship with their suppliers is at the core of Party’s mission. “We really do believe in what we are doing, it’s more than just lip-service or advertising,” said Kosmicki. “A lot of that is supporting your local ecosystem, your local food reps, and your local purveyors of goods, because if your neighbor isn’t doing well, because if your neighbor isn’t doing well, how can you be doing well?” The pandemic forced Party to close all three of their locations to indoor dining in March 2020. Kosmicki and Norton don’t plan to reopen indoor seating until they feel it’s a completely safe dining environment. They’re considering expanding their outdoor dining areas, with the goal of reopening dine-in service in July. In the meantime, they offer take-out, including traditional and original cocktails, such as the refreshing and floral “sweet pea’’ with gin, Peychaud’s aperitivo, house-made elderflower cordial, lemon and a splash of cava.
986 CHERRY STREET MEDFORD www.cherrystreetmeats.com
55 W. BROADWAY EUGENE www.partyeugene.com
THE MEATING PLACE The family-owned butcher shop has established a reputation among both foodies and sportsmen. The Meating Place offers patrons more than forty years of experience in the craft of meat cutting, curing and processing, and are known for their jerky, sausage, smoked salmon and wild game processing. Stop in to grab dinner to-go or dine-in to enjoy a classic barbecued pulled-pork sandwich or mouth-watering bacon elk burger. 6585 NW CORNELIUS PASS RD. HILLSBORO www.meatingplacepdx.com
CHERRY STREET MEATS
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farm to table
A family mint farm diversified with the Seely Peppermint Patty, found in Burgerville’s mint patty milkshake. Their mint oil is in many artisan ice creams, too.
Farm to Table
Well Minted
A fourth-generation mint farm pivots to peppermint patties, pet products written by Sophia McDonald | photography by Emily Triggs
THE DEMAND FOR the natural flavor of fresh mint, be it for toothpaste, gum or hard candy, put Oregon at the forefront of the spearmint and peppermint oil market starting in the 1930s. In the 1990s, cheaper synthetic oils began edging out local farmers who’ve struggled with falling demand and cratering prices. When Mike Seely, owner of Seely Mint in Clatskanie, saw his ledgers go from black to blood red in 2007, he knew he was going to have to pivot if a fourth generation was going to have a shot at farming. So he stopped selling some of his oil on the commodity market and started making other products with it. 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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HO
OD RIVER
EXPLORE the HOOD RIVER Fruit Loop
Visit all twenty-six of our member farm stands. Enjoy their seasonal bounty of award-winning wines & ciders, fruits, vegetables, flowers, delicious food, and artisan gifts. Experience spectacular scenery and breathtaking views of majestic Mt. Hood! Pick up a map along the way, or visit our website.
hoodriverfruitloop.com 541-490-7713
farm to table
Enter the Seely Peppermint Patty. The European dark chocolate and Seely heirloom mint confections have that just-iced, straight-fromgrandma’s-kitchen look, which is why Seely chose clear packaging, “So people can see they’re handmade,” Seely said. They’re strategically placed at grocery checkout stands and add a luscious dimension to Burgerville’s mint patty milkshake. They produce mint tea and, at Christmas, individually rolled candy canes bring old-fashioned goodness to stockings and trees. Seely also sells his clear, potent oil to local food manufacturers, so anyone who has tried mint ice cream from Ruby Jewel or Salt & Straw might have indulged in a bite of his farm. Mega-manufacturers may find real peppermint oil such as Seely’s to be too expensive, but a little goes a long way. “One pint of our pure peppermint oil flavors 41,000 of my peppermint patties,” said Seely. With 650 acres, Seely and two of his children, Warren and Caryn, can generate enough oil to produce more than a few candies and milkshakes. They grow spearmint as well as heirloom black Mitcham peppermint, which hails from England and found a comfortable home in western Oregon’s cool, wet climate. The area around Clatskanie also has peat soils similar to those in the British Isles, making it an ideal spot for the plant to thrive. Mint, a perennial, requires some fertilization and treatment for diseases such as rust in the spring, but with a little love and care, it grows up tall and strong amid rain showers and warming temperatures. Ideally, the goal is to produce the highest quantity of leaves on the fewest number of stems. There is no oil in the stems, and small leaves hold the same volume of oil as larger ones. The mint is ready to harvest when 3 to 5 percent of the plants are blooming, typically in late July. Too much later, and the oil develops chemical compounds that can turn the leaves bitter. Seely and his team mow it like hay and let it dry in the field for three days. After that, it is chopped and blown into large containers. “It’s intense because you’re racing the weather,” said Seely. “You don’t want rain on the mint, because it will wash the oil out of the leaves. The spearmint is even worse. If it gets rained on after it’s harvested, it turns the oil beet red.” At Seely’s processing facility, the oil is removed from the mint through a distillation process. The containers of mint are hooked up to a steam line, which pushes hot, moist air through 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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farm to table
OREGON MINT: SPRING’S SOLUTION FOR THE SWEET AND SAVORY While mint oil is perfect for candies and ice cream, fresh mint is ideal for bringing fresh, herbal flavor to a variety of drinks and dishes. Add a few leaves to a strawberry soup cocktail from Natasha Mesa, mixtress at the new Bit House Collective in Portland. Similar to a mojito, with fruity notes come from the strawberries, with a refreshing tingle courtesy of rum infused with Szechuan peppercorns. “The lemon gives it a nice, charismatic zest, while the mint brings the whole drink to life,” she said. A generous handful of chopped mint helps flavor the marinade for Lebanesestyle lamb kebabs. “Mint is used to ease the flavor of the lamb and take the gamey taste out,” said Hilda Dibe at Nicholas Restaurant in Portland. To fully taste the standout flavor of fresh springtime mint, use it in fennel and blood orange salad from Jeremy Whyte and Kyle Munroe with Pizza Capo in McMinnville. See Oregon Recipes, pg. 30
the leaves. The steam picks up the oil and carries it to a still, where the oil separates from the water vapor. The finished oil is stored in 55-gallon drums. Seely has big plans for the future. He hopes to increase the farm’s acreage and processing capacity, creating jobs for local residents in rural Columbia County, in the state’s northwestern corner. He’s creating a line of pet care products with mint oil, which is known for repelling ticks and other pests. He dreams of welcoming guests to an agritourism experience on the farm, where they can see how the products are made and learn about this important Oregon crop. Multinational corporations can have their synthetic oil—Seely is happy to offer the real thing in all its fragrant, green and glorious forms. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Mike Seely, right, and his son Warren at Seely Mint in Clatskanie. The first mint of spring at Seely. Oil is removed from the mint through a distillation process. Seely mint patties.
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farm to table
Oregon Recipes
Lebanese-style Lamb Kebabs
Nicholas Restaurant / PORTLAND Hilda Dibe
Mint Melange
SERVES 4 TO 5
Strawberry Soup Cocktail
FOR INFUSED RUM Roast the Szechuan peppercorns for a few minutes, being careful not to burn them. Ground them well. Mix with rum, stir, let sit until peppercorns rest on bottom of mixing glass. Gently pour off the rum into a container, leaving the peppercorns in the bottom of the infusion vessel.
• 21/2 pounds lamb legs, cut into 11/2 inch cubes • 2 teaspoons salt • 2 teaspoons black pepper • 1 teaspoon cinnamon • 1 teaspoon allspice • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves • 1 teaspoon cumin • 1/2 teaspoon coriander • 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil • 1 cup mint, chopped fine • 1 pound of a mix of vegetables, such as whole button mushrooms; red, green or yellow peppers, red onions, zucchini, yellow squash or eggplant, cut into 1-inch discs, wedges or cubes • 10 12-inch skewers, bamboo or stainless steel
FOR COCKTAIL Put syrup, rum, lime juice and mint leaves into a shaker or a jar with ice and shake for 10 to 15 seconds. Strain the liquid into a glass with fresh ice. Top with soda water or sparkling water and a bouquet of mint.
Mix all ingredients except vegetables and marinate for 2 hours. If using bamboo skewers, soak in water for 30 minutes. Skewer about four pieces of lamb on each, separating each piece with vegetables. Preheat grill or broiler to 400 degrees. Grill each kebab for five to seven minutes, turning once, for medium rare.
Bit House Collective / PORTLAND Natasha Mesa • 1 cup water • 1 cup sugar • 1 bunch lemongrass, sliced • 9 ounces strawberries, cleaned, hulled and sliced • 17 ounces rum • 1 tablespoon Szechuan pepper, roasted and ground • 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice • 5 to 9 mint leaves FOR SIMPLE SYRUP Combine equal parts sugar to water in a pot and turn on low heat. Stir until sugar has dissolved. Beat the lemongrass with a heavy spoon and slice into discs. Put lemongrass and strawberries into the pot with the simple syrup. Let simmer for 30 minutes. Strain liquid into a bowl
without mashing the fruit so that the syrup does not cloud.
Graham Mandell
Fennel and Blood Orange Salad Pizza Capo / MCMINNVILLE Jeremy Whyte and Kyle Munroe SERVES 2 TO 3 • 11/2 heads of fennel, thinly sliced • 2 blood oranges, peeled and sliced • 1 Cara Cara orange, peeled and sliced • 1/3 cup Kalamáta or Castelvetrano olives • 10 mint leaves, torn • 10 parsley leaves, torn • 2 tablespoons olive oil • Salt to taste • 3 tablespoons roasted pistachios, ground Combine fennel, oranges and olives in a large bowl. Sprinkle with herbs and salt, and drizzle with olive oil. Toss gently until combined, and sprinkle with ground pistachios.
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Pizza Capo’s fennel and blood orange salad.
MAY | JUNE 2021
Taste the Difference!
Our crabbers are stewards of the sea; which is why we practice sustainable harvesting across our fleet, ensuring the flavor of Oregon continues for generations to come.
Support Hard Working Oregon Fishermen oregondungeness.org
farm to table
Spice-rubbed rack of lamb with mint pesto, from a recipe with Iranian origins.
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Mint Condition written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane AS A KID, I had no idea that mint was an herb. My first memories of the cooling menthol sensation came from the Andes mints that my aunt kept in a crystal dish on her coffee table. My older sister would stuff them into my pockets—if we were caught, I’d get the blame. When the smuggling was successful, we’d consume every last one on the long ride home. I grew to love the flavoring that I thought was mint. From mint chip ice cream to Doublemint Gum (with hopes that a twin me would appear if I chewed it long enough), I enjoyed the “fresh” flavor of these treats. It wasn’t until I was older that I discovered the fresh herb, after finding a jar of mint jelly in my grandfather’s fridge. “Peanut butter and mint jelly? Yuck!” I exclaimed. My grandpa explained that mint jelly was used with lamb when fresh mint was not available. He showed me the fresh herb growing outside of his house— mind blown. In the early ’80’s, when I began to work in professional kitchens, one of my duties as dishwasher was to pick fresh mint for garnishing dessert plates. One afternoon, as I started harvesting the beautifully fragrant, deep green sprigs, one of the line cooks, Larry, called out the window to pick twice as much, because he needed it for “family meal.” Family meal is what restaurants call the meal that the staff has together before or after nightly service. Larry, a well-disciplined cook with large, dark eyes, was always in charge of this meal. “Tonight, I am cooking the food of my heritage,” he announced. “What is your heritage?” I asked. “Persian,” Larry replied, with an exasperated sigh, a roll of his eyes and a head wobble. He followed up with a whisper: “That’s code for Iranian.” Larry prepared a spice rubbed, braised lamb breast stuffed with roasted shallots and mint leaves. The succulent meat was served with a yogurt sauce studded with lemon peel, steaming hot flatbread from the oven and fresh and dried fruits. I was honored to learn about Larry’s culture through his food. The staff savored the bright notes of the mint and the unctuous, tender meat. So much so that the chef asked Larry to create a lamb and mint entree for the dinner menu. Here is that recipe.
Spice-rubbed Rack of Lamb with Mint Pesto SERVES 2 • 1 8-bone rack of lamb, divided into 2, 4-bone racks • 2 garlic cloves, minced • Kosher salt • 2 tablespoons olive oil FOR THE SPICE RUB • 1 tablespoon paprika • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 1 teaspoon ground coriander • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 1/2 teaspoon brown sugar FOR THE MINT PESTO • 4 cups lightly packed mint leaves, rinsed and patted dry • 1/3 cup almonds, toasted • 2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and minced • Grated zest of one lemon • Juice from half a lemon • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1/3 cup olive oil, plus more if necessary FOR THE SPICE RUB Combine all the spices. (If possible, toast the spices whole and grind them after they have cooled). FOR THE MINT PESTO In a food processor, combine mint, almonds, garlic, juice and zest. Pulse about five or six times. Add oil slowly until the pesto has the texture of peanut butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. FOR THE LAMB Rub lamb racks with minced garlic, and sprinkle with salt. Generously rub the racks with the spice rub and set aside at room temperature. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Heat a large stainless steel or cast iron pan over medium heat on stove. When pan is hot, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan. Sear lamb racks on all sides, creating a golden crust. Transfer pan to oven for 15 to 20 minutes until desired doneness. After 15 minutes, remove pan from oven, transfer lamb racks to a plate to rest. Cut the racks into single rib chops and top with a teaspoon of mint pesto. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.
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home + design
A 1926 Portland home gets flooded with natural light in an HGTV pilot makeover.
Worth the Wait
Cooking up dream kitchens for old abodes written by Melissa Dalton 34 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Photos: Kaitlin Green
home + design
ABOVE Designers had the wall between the kitchen and dining room expanded, the doorway between the living and dining rooms widened and had a new custom banquette and table tucked under a window.
Portland: A traditional bungalow gets a svelte update WHEN KAMI GRAY and her daughter Stephanie Welch first visited a traditional 1926 home in Portland’s Beaumont-Wilshire neighborhood, the blue painter’s tape on the floor was a dead giveaway. The owners had lived in the house for years, raised their children there, and were well-ensconced in the neighborhood, all of which made them want to stay. The problem? As it was, the old house just didn’t function for how they lived, yet they were struggling with starting a remodel. “I think we all can relate,” said Welch. “It’s needing to give yourself permission to just do it. Stop waiting and make your home live for you. They just needed the help to get there.” That help came from an unexpected source: the owners applied, and were accepted, for their remodel to be profiled for an HGTV pilot, starring their local interior designers, Gray and Welch, of Kami Gray Interiors. “This was very unique for us,” said Gray. “There was a lot at stake because it was for a show, but also unusual because we didn’t have client input.” (The show’s dramatic climax hinges on a big reveal of the remodel to the owners.) The project came with its highs, namely total creative freedom, and lows, such as when the mother-daughter duo had to lean into the scripted narrative of the show. “We would make a decision on hardware and then have to back up, come back in, and do it again ten times,” Welch said, laughing. For the remodel, the pair were starting with a small kitchen, common to old Portland houses. The refrigerator stretched halfway into the hall. The adjacent dining room was used as storage more than anything else. “That was the land of leftover furniture,” said Grey. The entire first floor also felt noticeably dark, with living, dining and kitchen walled off from each another.
The first order of business was to remove that blue tape. “It came up in little disintegrated strips because it had been there for so long,” said Gray. Next up was reclaiming the dining room. Gray and Welch did so by opening up the wall between the kitchen and dining room, and installing a large island spanning the newly cleared space. Then, the doorway between the living and dining rooms was widened, the opening flanked with short “pony” walls on either side. That allowed natural light to flows through the entire first floor, with connected sightlines, yet with a feeling of separation among the rooms. A new custom banquette and table tucked under a window, created a cozy dining destination. Traditional casework and cabinetry knit the new interventions with the home’s vintage details, and luxe materials elevate without being too fussy for the informal owners. A gorgeous quartz slab with dramatic veining covers the counters, backsplash and even forms a custom farmhouse-style sink. The warm white scheme is punctuated by matte black hardware, faucets, and the island was painted a rich blue-hued Newburg green from Benjamin Moore. Floating shelves, wood trim around the hood vent and a custom table fabricated by contractor Cameron Welch, Stephanie’s brother, are all of spalted maple, adding warmth and a relaxed, organic feel. Although HGTV ultimately didn’t pick up the pilot, the 2018 project has become a calling card for Gray and Welch’s firm, and they’re busier than ever. “Now, more than ever, I think we are all appreciating the beauty of home and really making an effort to make it our own, and have it reflect the life we want to live,” said Welch. “More and more, people just want to surround themselves in beauty.” MAY | JUNE 2021
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home + design
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Clarkbuilt’s cabinet shop outfitted the space with new custom units, using grain-matched fir at the bottom and simple painted white fronts at the top. An integrated “semi-floating” shelf lets everyday items be on display. Artsy pieces from Portland makers bring cheery color, including spun clay pendant lights by Folk.
“I just love all the details we’re able to accomplish with our cabinetry. It’s all very seamless, and everything fits very snug and tight. There’s no wasted space.” — Soren Clark, homeowner
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Cannon Beach: A lackluster ’60s “box” shines with new, crafted details When Hannah and Soren Clark were house hunting in Cannon Beach a few years ago, they didn’t shy from the fixer-uppers. “Me being a contractor, I wasn’t going to buy something that was all done,” said Soren, who runs the Portland remodeling company Clarkbuilt. “So, we just bought pretty much the cheapest house available, and spent the next three years remodeling it.” Built in the late ’60s, the structure was, as per the couple’s description, “just a box,” but it was the right-sized box in the right location, the “less-touristy” south end of town. Soren got to work fixing dry rot and leaky doors. “If you live on the coast and you have any leaks, it just becomes a massive problem,” he said.
Photos: Crosby Dove
home + design
The project snowballed from there. “Basically, once I started doing work on one thing, it just gave me the impression that everything was poorly done,” said Soren. A bottom-up remodel ensued, with the contractor first tackling the lower level, followed by the upstairs. The kitchen was last on the punch list. Soren kept the layout, but the existing finishes had to go, especially the shoddy cabinetry, which seriously irked the carpenter. Clarkbuilt’s cabinet shop outfitted the space with new custom units, using grain-matched fir at the bottom and simple, painted white fronts at the top. “I just love all the details we’re able to accomplish with our cabinetry,” said Soren. “It’s all very seamless, and everything fits very snug and tight. There’s no wasted space.” He banded the upper cabinets with wood, which adds subtle definition
and creates an integrated “semi-floating” shelf for everyday items to be on display. The minimalist scheme spotlights the material details and craftsmanship. Soren wrapped the island in golden-brown parota wood, letting the natural edge of the slab descend to the floor. Artsy pieces from Portland makers bring cheery color, from the spun clay pendant lights by Folk to the cement encaustic backsplash tile from Juju Papers. With only the weekends available to work, the remodel took a few years, but Soren finished the project just in time for the arrival of the couple’s first child, meaning that as life at home gets busier, the kitchen has proven to be a balm. “Looking back at what it was before, I’m so happy,” said Hannah. “It’s pleasant to spend time in there now.” MAY | JUNE 2021
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home + design
DIY: Kitchen Styling Tips WHAT SHOULD WE display, and what’s just clutter? Interior designer Stephanie Welch offers tips on the key elements that will make the kitchen sing. PLANTS AND FLOWERS “Anytime we try to style without plants and florals, it’s a fail,” said Welch. “We usually sit around trying to determine what’s off, and nine times out of ten it’s because we don’t have any plants. They really do make the space come to life.” When it comes to houseplants, Welch likes a classic rubber plant, or any kind of palm. One or two sprigs in a vase will do nicely, too, and Welch suggests cherry blossoms for that. “I like my flowers and plants to be wild and free, the wider the sprawling branches, the better,” she said. CERAMICS Display handmade or meaningful ceramics on open shelves or in a cluster on the island. “We love pottery and the organic, handmade feel it brings to a room. Bonus points if it’s vintage,” said Welch, who is launching a home décor site called Indigo and Ivy Co. in the spring, so people can shop her faves. LINENS For linens such as table runners and dish towels, Gray and Welch love sourcing vintage fabrics, and prefer cotton, linen or organic materials. “Textiles soften a space, and incorporating unique patterns and textiles is what makes a house a home,” said Welch. NATURAL WOOD Natural wood adds visual warmth, especially in cooler color schemes. Stack cutting boards against the backsplash, and feel free to vary the shapes and wood species. Wood trays are also a good option for corralling stove-side clutter.
AT RIGHT Vintage fabrics of cotton, linen or organic materials soften a space and incorporate patterns and textiles that makes a house, a home.
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Kaitlin Green
HAVE FUN “Layering is key,” said Welch. “I think most people start with objects that are too small—bigger is usually better—and I like to use groupings of three with varying shapes and heights.” Most importantly, surround yourself with what you love. “If you love it, it’s going to work for you,” said Welch.
home + design
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Portland mainstay Schoolhouse Electric draws on the geodesic designs of Buckminster Fuller to fashion the Fuller pendant. The glass shade is hand-blown locally, its twenty facets revealing the rippling, artisanal imperfections. It’s complemented by streamlined components, available in natural brass or black.
For the Abigail angular cylinder pendant, Portland-based maker Folk suspends a handcrafted ceramic shade from cold-rolled steel hardware. Available in four subtle hues with a matte finish, it’ll look both modern and tactile hanging over your kitchen counter, as in the Cannon Beach kitchen.
www.schoolhouse.com
www.rejuvenation.com
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All the Pretty Island Lights From geodesic designs, wood, ceramic and cold-rolled steel, looks for illuminating your kitchen
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The Timber & Ore Collection from Barn Light Electric combines classic lighting shapes with crafted wood pieces. We like the Conoco draftsman wooden top pendant, which contrasts a simple wooden socket with a brightly-colored porcelain enamel shade for a twist on what’s typically found hanging over the island.
With its conical shade and pronounced chain loop, the Limoges medium pendant by Suzanne Kasler for Visual Comfort cuts a sharp silhouette over an island, as seen in the Portland kitchen project. The natural rusted iron finish is considered “living,” which means the fixture will gain a lovely patina the longer it hangs.
www.barnlight.com
www.visualcomfortlightinglights.com
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mind + body
Art and Soul
Art therapy can satisfy our deepest needs, transform lives and heal communities written by Cathy Carroll
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Nina Johnson
mind + body
Mary Andrus teaches art therapy students at the Lewis & Clark Graduate School of Education and Counseling in Portland.
MARY ANDRUS has seen how working with people through art therapy can transform their lives and build community, and she believes it can ultimately create a more just society. She has spent years working with people in a range of settings, from community mental health programs and nursing homes to an inpatient psychiatric hospital and therapeutic day schools. Art therapy and artistic expression in general, however, can benefit anyone, she said. Art therapy’s aim is to help people function better in their lives and elevate a sense of well-being. “It would be for anybody open to using the creative process to find and get to know themselves,” she said. “Art therapy isn’t about drawing pretty pictures … it’s about tapping into who you are inside—and maybe drawing really ugly pictures—and giving yourself permission to play and make a mess and explore a deeper relationship with yourself. It’s really beneficial to anybody who’s willing to take that risk in getting to know themselves in a deeper way.” Art therapists have the skills to know what materials might best support people in helping create and reach their goals. “It’s really all about what your body needs,” said Andrus, who has a doctorate in art therapy and directs the art therapy program at Lewis & Clark Graduate School of Education and Counseling in Portland. “It may need to pound clay, rip up paper, untangle some yarn or weave. Working with an art therapist can help you find your voice and material and medium that will support your internal vagal needs.” She was referring to the vagus nerve, which connects your brain to your gut. “It’s essentially the very first thing that happens when you’re born. It’s regulating your heart and body functions and is also a place where all your sensory input is. It’s connected to the amygdala, a primitive part of the brain that’s concerned with survival—the fight, flight or freeze response.” The more we connect with things that soothe us and support our
senses—sound, touch, taste, smell, hearing—nourishes the part of the self that wants to be held, rocked and soothed. Art can be the vehicle to do just that, she said. Andrus is also dedicated to moving art therapy forward as an integral way to help heal communities and to pursue social justice. The Art for Social Change mission at the school is centered on fostering the creation and display of art by Black, Indigenous and people of color, which amplifies and centers the artists’ minds and bodies. The works also allow others to learn, listen and reflect on the lived experiences expressed through that art. Making art can promote wellness, but many people have not had that privilege or let it drop out of their adult lives. “It really comes down to a to-do list and setting aside time to devote to yourself,” Andrus said. “A part of you will really be nourished by it, like yoga or exercise, it’s creating that space in your life to tend to your soul.”
ART THERAPY FOR ALL Want to explore art therapy for anyone, for free, from anywhere? Join the Lewis & Clark Virtual Open Studio, virtual studio sessions offering a place to create and find community. Faculty and graduate level art therapy students facilitate the sessions Thursdays, 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. online via Zoom through June 10 and resuming in fall. Anyone is welcome. Attend the full three hours or drop in as long as you can. Begin a new piece using a gentle prompt offered at the beginning of each session or work on pieces already in progress. Sign up at www.graduate.lclark.edu/programs/ art-therapy/open-studio.
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artist in residence
Mollymanyhorses Keeps Moving On
Native American artist taps into her totem animals for inspiration written by Cathy Carroll photography by Charlotte Dupont
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artist in residence
MOLLY KUBISTA WAS 18 when she killed her first buck with a compound bow beside a lake near the headwaters of Desolation Creek west of Baker City. “I took the hide and I tanned him and turned him into a purse, the old-school way,” she said. It was early in a devotion to making folk art rooted in her Native American heritage, for pleasure and for her livelihood. Now at age 55, the artist based near Terrebonne said she’s ready to shift her focus. “I don’t have to spread myself so thin as I did when I was younger,” she said, having spent years making art, jewelry and beadwork aimed at appealing to a broad demographic. “I was a manufacturer of Native art. Now that I’m older, the kids are grown, and the house is paid for, I can hone in on my specialty.” That means depicting her two totems, horse and butterfly. She draws and paints on pages torn from nineteenth-century ledgers. “In the past, when there was not a lot of paper, our Native peoples were given them as a trade item, and we’d draw pictorial history on the old papers.” Using the antique paper adds another dimension to her work. “There’s the handwriting, the beautiful penmanship style of the 1800s, and the history of how much things cost, and it’s a piece of art where you have a Native person doing it.” She goes for “dramatic, mouth-drop-open” imagery, with vivid color and cultural significance. “In our Cree culture, the butterfly represents everlasting life, because you’re putting off the old cocoon and putting on the new wings of life … We believe in a new world where our ancestors will come back from a resurrection. We get to greet them and there’ll be a new world in place. The government now will be replaced with the creator’s government … We will not be under man’s oppression anymore.” Kubista, born in Seattle, is a tribal member of the Samish Indian Nation. Her father was a tribal councilman and her mother would perform the traditional eagle dance at Chief Seattle Days, a festival honoring chief Seattle, a famous leader of the Suquamish people. Her horse totem, representing her personality, took hold early in life. “I was born in the year of the horse and my first word was horsey instead of mama or daddy, and my mom said, ‘Oh I got my feelings hurt.’ She put me on a horse at age 2 and it’s been a love affair ever since.” About a decade later, they moved to Central Oregon. When she was 16, she saw Eugene Kubista doing wheelies on a motorcycle in Madras. “I thought that was the most amazing thing, you know, Evel Knievel stuff. It was love at first sight, and since the day we met we’ve never been apart. We have the same birthday exactly two years apart.” They opened their first arts and crafts shop in Sisters, and after two years, moved it to Bend, where they ran the Indian Dreams Trading Post for more than twenty years. “My husband always supported my art, and he’d haul me around to shows and powwows.” Her work has been shown around the country, from the Museum of Natural History in Los Angeles to the High Desert Museum in Bend. She adopted the professional name Mollymanyhorses. Her work attracted collectors such as Kent Beebe, who met her about ten years ago at an art show in Sisters. He’d retired from a
career in financial services as was about to open Horseshoe Curve Hunt Club, an upland game bird hunting lodge in Echo, near Pendleton. “With the Pendleton RoundUp and the Umatilla tribe all having big impacts on the community, it felt natural to decorate my lodge with Western art,” he said. He bought five of her ledger drawings and a few head-dresses she made, adding them to his collection, which includes Pendleton blankets bronzes, arrowhead displays and some metal forged work. “I have stayed in touch, even hunting together several times,” said Beebe. Kubista said she can work a compound bow better than a smartphone, but that hunting in the area has been squeezed out by development. “It was like cowboys and Indians from Madras to Bend,” she said. “You’d see twenty or thirty cars, and you didn’t have to worry about traffic, but it’s not like that anymore.” Kubista figures that with all of the new homes in the area, newcomers will want Native art to adorn their walls. She’ll have a booth at the Redmond Street Festival, a fundraiser benefiting artists and crafters, June 26 and 27. Learn more at www.visitcentraloregon.com/event/redmond-street-festival.
FROM TOP Molly Kubista depicts her totems on nineteenth-century ledger paper. Native people in Warm Springs taught her to do beaded flatwork.
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STARTUP 46 WHAT’S GOING UP 48 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 50 MY WORKSPACE 52 GAME CHANGER 54
An O’Neill Construction Group worker helps build the new Meyer Memorial Trust headquarters in North Portland.
Fred Joe
pg. 54
The power tool for curious minds.
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7/28/20 9:08 AM
startup
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Friends and family of Astoria Food Hub co-owners Corey Omey, fourth from left, and Jared Gardner, center, in brown shirt, gather at the historic building that will house the hub. The 27,000-squarefoot Mason Ehrman building in Astoria’s Riverwalk District has a history as a center for food. The hub will offer processing, storage and distribution for local, small-scale farmers, fisherfolk and ranchers.
Flavor, Funded
Innovative funding platform secures a home for Astoria Food Hub
Hailey Hoffman/The Astorian
written by Rachel Pinsky
A MURAL on the side of the 27,000-square-foot historic Mason Ehrman building in Astoria’s Riverwalk District depicts scenes from the 1930s when wholesale groceries were shipped to Alaska and California from this very spot. Recently, Jared Gardner and Corey Omey, co-owners of the Astoria Food Hub, bought this building for a similar purpose—centralized processing, storage and distribution for local, small-scale farmers, fisherfolk and ranchers. Instead of getting funds from a traditional financial institution for the balance of their downpayment, Gardner and Omey sought local investors through Steward. Steward is a private lender that funds regenerative agriculture and sustainable food producers to help them sustain and expand their businesses. 46 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Through Steward, anyone can invest in the project for any amount of money through an online platform. For this fiveyear loan, investors receive 7 percent interest on their investment. “Rather than pay the bank, we wanted to pay our neighbors,” said Gardner. “If we were going to pay interest to someone, we wanted to pay those who support local food.” Astoria Food Hub will also use Steward to fund the next phase of the project this spring. This next stage, which they expect to complete by fall, includes retail on the main level and cold storage. Businesses such as bakeries, a coffee shop and sellers of artisan products that feature locally grown commodities are expected to fill the retail space.
startup
“The North Coast has great seafood, lush pastures, amazing cheese and meat.”
Benjamin Ariff/Straw to Gold Productions
Hailey Hoffman/The Astorian
— Jared Gardner, Astoria Food Hub co-owner
They plan to open a commercial kitchen by the spring of next year. There’s already high demand for a space to cook and bake using local products, but this part of the project is more time consuming than setting up the retail space and cold storage. “This idea isn’t new—I’ve been working to create a food hub for seven years, other people worked on it for ten years before that,” said co-owner Gardner. Gardner owns Nehalem River Ranch with his wife, Hilary Foote. As their grass-fed beef and pork business grew, they wanted to sell their meat locally. Gardner approached Fort George Brewery’s executive chef, Jeff Graham. Graham told him that he was interested in sourcing local products, but would need enough beef for the thousands of burgers he sells every week at the brewery. Gardner teamed
up with other local ranchers. They were able to aggregate their products to meet the brewery’s needs. Through this process, it became clear that there were several gaps in the infrastructure to make selling locally grown products financially viable. Gardner looked for efficiencies of scale. For example, the ranchers discovered that each of them needed about four full-time employees to deliver their product. Working together, they were able to share the cost of distribution and create more efficient routes for getting their meat to customers. In addition, fees went down when they brought ten animals to the processing facility instead of just one or two. Another goal of the Astoria Food Hub is to diversify food business ownership. According to the Department of Agriculture’s 2017 Census of Agriculture, 95 percent of farmland in the U.S. is operated by white farmers. A large percentage of the people who work on those farms are people of color. “This needs to change. It doesn’t reflect the community,” said Gardner. Gardner reached out to Consejo Hispano, a non-profit dedicated to serving the Hispanic community of Oregon and Washington. It’s goals include promoting health, education and social and economic advancement of area Latinos. The organizations plan on working together to create more diversity in ownership of food businesses and farms in the region. Customers also benefit from a functional local food system. At a food hub, the line from producer to consumer is shorter, which makes it easier to know where food comes from, how it was caught or raised and even more certainty about what type of fish it is. Studies have shown that when local seafood gets thrown into worldwide commodity markets with complex supply chains, it’s frequently mislabeled by the time it’s sold by fishmongers, supermarkets and restaurants. “The North Coast has great seafood, lush pastures, amazing cheese and meat,” said Gardner. For now, Astoria Food Hub has plans to distribute to and import products from Central Oregon. This north coast food hub is also part of a larger movement that encompasses centralized food hubs and smaller local feeder hubs throughout the region. The Oregon Community Food System Network includes twelve hubs throughout the state from the North Coast Food Web in Astoria to The Redd in Portland. The long-term goal is to connect these hubs into a regional food system that makes small-scale sustainable food production economically viable, and restore what mural artist Jo Lumpkin Brown painted on the Astoria Food Hub’s new home. MAY | JUNE 2021
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what’s going up?
SaltLine Hotel epitomizes a new standard for Seaside, with a stateof-the-art saltwater pool and spa.
Luxury Hotels Across the state, hotels are coming out of quarantine … and they’re well dressed A BLOCK FROM the beach between the Pacific Ocean and the Necanicum River, Seaside’s new upscale SaltLine Hotel raises the bar for overnight accommodations in Oregon’s favorite family getaway for young families. It lives up to its name with a state-of-the-art saltwater pool and spa. Pet-friendly and with an outdoor firepit and patio for cool nights, SaltLine also has an on-site EV charging station. The Gordon in Eugene amplifies art and style in the newly opened luxury boutique adjacent to 5th Street Public Market. Grab a glass of local wine or beer at the Art Bar along with a paintbrush and create your own work of art. The restaurants—The Gordon Tavern and Carlita’s Rooftop—offer, respectively, local-fare comfort food and Mexican cuisine small bites with impressive views of the city. The Northwest’s first Ritz-Carlton Hotel, the new Portland venue at SW 10th Avenue and Alder leaves a bitter taste for some Portlanders, after the construction took over a block of favorite city food carts. The new 251-room, 138-condo building is expected to open in 2023.
Seaside Lodging
written by Seamus Casey
what i’m working on
three-week-old infant. That was probably one of the most difficult times, those early years in which I was trying to learn the business completely, raising our small children and working a day job.
CMK Photography
Ximena Orrego, co-owner and winemaker at Atticus Wine, is a leader of Raices Unidas.
Winemaking’s Invisible Community Hispanics in Oregon’s wine industry are giving back to Hispanic viticulture workers, celebrating their stories interview by Kevin Max
XIMENA ORREGO, co-owner and winemaker at Atticus Wine, is a leader of Raices Unidas, a group of Hispanic winemakers in Oregon giving back to the Hispanic viticulture community and providing a venue for this often invisible community to tell their stories. We sat down with Orrego to talk about her own journey and supporting those of others. Tell us about your path from Peru to Yamhill. I was born in Peru, and before I was a year old, because of the dictatorship and my father’s job, we ended up moving to Venezuela. … In addition to Venezuela, we also lived in Milan and Panama. After graduating from high school, I moved to Canada, where I went to university in Vancouver, B.C. When I graduated, I moved closer to my family in Miami, where I met my husband, Guy. He had an opportunity to live in Bordeaux, and he really wanted to retire to a vineyard. And then in 2004, we tasted our first Oregon pinot noir. That same year, we came here to the Willamette Valley 50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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on vacation and we just loved it. We stood here on these 50 acres and we were like, wow, we could do this. What was the largest challenge you face(d) as a South American businesswoman/winery owner in Oregon? We were lucky in terms of when we actually purchased our property and started this business, because we had a very welcoming environment and being part of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA as it was just getting established. The biggest obstacles, however, which I think many people can relate to, is being far away from any family or support system with a toddler and a
What can Oregon do better for its immigrant workers in the wine industry? I will always advocate for education. My biggest message is presenting educational opportunity, not only for our immigrant workers, but for the Hispanic community in general. I think there’s a lot of need, and I think that without education, the path to succeed and for opportunity is so limited. So opening those doors for educational opportunities is critical. Why did you get involved with Raices Unidas? I wanted to do something that would, first of all, be something that would bring joy. I wanted something to lift my peers, our community, and provide the opportunity to just celebrate our stories, our different cultures. Even though we all share the fact that we are from Latin America, our cultures have some similarities, but there are also differences. Tell us about the wines you’re making right now at Atticus. We are strictly pinot noir focused. Being a part of the Yamhill Carlton AVA, our wines typically tend to be a little bit darker in their fruit profile, with a lot of spice, tobacco, great minerality, but they have lower acid and bigger tannins. The vintage variability is huge. The XO label is actually a really special wine for me. While Atticus wines have a consistency, XO is really whatever really captivates me that year. We started making it in 2012, and it’s made around the concept of this one barrel that’s like we don’t need to touch it. It’s just beautiful from the nose to its palate and finish. We don’t want to blend it with anything.
Meet me at Dancin. “A perfect wine country experience.” ~ Hilarie Larson
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my workspace
Pedals for Peddling Portland’s Icicle Tricycles is at the pinnacle of microbusinesses written by Sophie Derning
Ryan Hashagen, founder of Icicle Tricycles, started pedaling commercial tricycles in high school. His inspiration came from combining tricycles and commerce to make public spaces more lively and engaging. Think pre-automobile flower vendor bikes, newspaper delivery bikes and ice cream trikes.
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“My dad and great uncle both delivered Oregon newspapers by bike when they were growing up, and my great-uncle ran a bike messenger business in Salem back in the 1920s,” Hashagen said.
my workspace
“We started manufacturing by way of tinkering and building trikes for our own projects,” said Hashagen. “One of the first trikes I built for myself was to vend flowers in the winter as ‘Petals on Pedals’ and ice cream in the summer as ‘Icicle Tricycles.’”
“In 2003 and 2004, I showed up at the Bike Messenger World Championships with a huge commercial tricycle and surprisingly, won the Cargo Messenger World Championship both years!” said Hashagen.
Icicle Tricycles builds the tricycles in its Portland shops and customizes each one according to customers’ requirements. The majority of sales are in the U.S. and Canada but they have customers as far away as Dubai, Iceland and Singapore.
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game changer
Michelle J. DePass, Meyer Memorial Trust president and CEO, in front of the former North Portland home of the foundation’s founder, Fred G. Meyer.
Trust Time
Meyer Memorial Trust’s Michelle DePass dives headlong into a historic Oregon quagmire
Michael Rubenstein Photography
written by Kevin Max
WHEN MICHELLE DEPASS took the top job at Meyer Memorial Trust in 2018, the ugly temperature of racism was climbing to a boiling point in the United States. In Portland, Black Lives Matter protests grew in size and strength after the senseless deaths of Ahmaud Arbery in Georgia, Breonna Taylor in Kentucky and George Floyd in Minnesota. It was into this Oregon—the only state to enter the union with a black exclusion law, and one which interned its Japanese citizens at the start of World War II and now witnessed an open revolution—DePass entered to make change happen. At the helm of the trust created by the late Fred G. Meyer nearly forty years ago, she leads the mission of “investing in change at the systemic level to ease inequities and disparities.” As daunting as the job appeared to be, there was no reason to believe she wasn’t up for it. She had worked as a program director at the Ford Foundation, as the assistant administrator at the Environmental Protection Agency under the Obama Administration and, most recently, she had served as dean of the Milano School of International Affairs, Management and Urban Policy at The New School in New York City. “The guiding star is equity, and there was an opportunity that I saw on the board and with the staff for us to lean towards the arc of justice.” she said. “And that opportunity was once-in-a-lifetime.” One of the first challenges DePass encountered was discovery. Colleagues asked her if there were, indeed, any Black people in Oregon. Oregon has many Black people, DePass countered, 54 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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but the “invisibilization” of the Black community made Oregon a more complex problem to solve. DePass offered that invisibilization has to do with how connected people are to the economic, political, social, and environmental ecosystem of a place. Invisibilization, itself, demands time and a multifaceted therapy for remedy. “Invisibilization can only be conquered if you work in an intersectional way, if you start with the history and the narrative, and then you connect it to the economy, the political realities, the social and environmental realities,” DePass said. In July of 2020, Meyer Memorial Trust took a bold step in that direction, launching Justice Oregon for Black Lives, a fiveyear $25 million initiative to uplift Black Oregonians by funding Black-led and Black-supporting organizations. “It’s important in a moment of crisis to accelerate, and Meyer Memorial trust accelerated at that moment while people were in the street, while we were all grappling with hate and frustration,” DePass said. “Meyer Memorial Trust committed to its largest initiative, which is the Justice Oregon for Black Lives, essentially an opportunity to support a true liberation in a state that was created as a white utopia.” In March of this year, Meyer Memorial Trust took its own medicine and unveiled a home of its own, building a headquarters in North Portland with Oregon wood, using nearly 50 percent women- and minority-owned businesses in the construction of a rare Platinum LEED Certified building. For many who enter this building and benefit from its new initiative, re-visiblization will be their guiding star.
Famous Food
Healthy Living & Family Farms One of Oregon's most famous agriculture valleys now has its own Food Trail. Highlighting the amazing diversity of our food and beverage artisans, the Rogue Valley Food Trail features 51 businesses on three different itineraries: Famous Food, Healthy Living and Family Farms. Look for the signs at your favorite food spots from Grants Pass to Ashland. Download RVFT Map at RogueValleyFoodTrail.com
TravelMedford.org
SouthernOregon.org
TravelOregon.com
Bend’s beer scene has grown up. It’s time for the Bend Ale Trail to do the same. One trail, seven territories. Coming summer 2021. BendAleTrail.com
Photos: Amanda Photographic
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Follow these food trails to satisfy a hunger for world-class food, landscapes and meet the folks who make it happen written by Cathy Carroll
FORAYS MAY | JUNE 2021
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South Willamette Valley Historic Luscher Farm, on nearly 75 acres in Lake Oswego, has a Queen Anne-style farmhouse and hosts classes. Enjoy picnicking under their 100-year-old beech tree, part of their thriving bird habitat. (photo: mthoodterritory.com)
NO MATTER WHAT, food not only sustains us, the better it is, the better we are, and the more fun we have. Now is the time to connect with some of the best food in the world, grown in Oregon, and the people who farm it, ranch it, brew it, crush it and cook it. With spring in full swing and summer on its way, following food trails through some of the state’s most compelling landscapes is our preferred way to feed body and soul. Each region has a trail designed to take you off the beaten path and get a locals’ view of where to go to eat well and satisfy not just your appetite, but a hunger to discover new food, new places and new people. These trails cover hundreds of miles, stretching from the Pacific to the mountains to the desert. Here’s a glimpse of what lies ahead down the road, and resources for details on what’s in season, where to stay and planning your journey. We wish you happy trails. 60 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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LET’S START WITH a staple— bread. Find it in its purest forms: first in fields of grain, then ground at a stone grist mill and finally at a bakery turning out loaves of crusty, rustic goodness, plus cookies and pastries. Camas Country Mill, Sue and Tom Hunton’s third-generation family farm southwest of Junction City, is a testament to flavor direct from the field. The Huntons want visitors to taste the terroir, especially when much of Oregon wheat is shipped around the country and the globe. These flavors hearken back about a century, when one-room schoolhouses, like stone grist mills, supported rural communities. The local nineteenth-century, one-room Lower Fern Ridge School, which the Huntons saved from decay and brought to the farm, where they restored it, completes the atmosphere for a culinary journey to bygone days. At neighboring Thistledown’s, the classic red barn with white trim will keep you in a nostalgic mood (interrupted only by taking a great selfie). Stroll the farm, abundant with herbs, lettuce and asparagus in May before strawberry, blueberry and blackberry season bursts onto the scene in June. At nearby Hentze Family Farm, a century-old affair, pick your own summer fruit, then head to their Cook Shack beside a canopy of walnut trees (among the first things planted here starting in 1902). Four generations of Hentzes serve up Americana in the form of crispy hot sandwiches and fries. Start imagining cherry cobbler
and black cherry ice cream (grandma Hentze’s recipe) dripping down your chin, and make it reality by returning for their annual cherry festival in mid-July. It would be wrong to stick to food trail terra firma when the 90-mile McKenzie River teems with dinner potential in May and June, following the release of more than 100,000 rainbow trout from state hatcheries. Let some seasoned pros give you a great experience catching something delicious. A Helfrich Outfitters has been guiding on the McKenzie and surrounding rivers since the early 1920s. Savor the river-to-pan experience on a day trip’s lunch fish fry. Naturally, food trails wind throughout wine country. In late June, when fragrant, flavorful lavender debuts, venture to Chehalem Flats Farm Market to pick a peck of purple bouquets and scoop up local lavender infused honey, maple syrup, vinegar, jams and kombucha. Raid their freezer for lemon and honey lavender Ruby Jewel ice cream sandwiches, handmade and sourced in Portland. www.eugenecascadescoast. org/restaurants/tastingtrails/south-willamettevalley-food-trail
Savor McKenzie River-to-pan flavors with A Helfrich Outfitters.
Meet the cows, tour the dairy, sample cheese and watch how it’s made right on the farm at TMK Creamery in Canby. (photo: mthoodterritory.com)
Eastern Willamette Valley WITHIN A FIFTEEN- to forty-five minute drive from Portland, get berry-stained fingers and savor fresh food right off the farm as you pet animals, crunch hazelnuts, nibble chocolates, sip local wine, watch a rodeo or shop for Western wear.
Oregon Farm Loops’ online maps and guides and your appetite can steer you to each flavorful foray—to “Farmlandia,” Canby, Molalla and Marion loops. Expect to find strawberries, boysenberries, kale, beef, eggs, lamb and honey now, and use the loops’ graphics to
gauge when to head out later this summer for peaches, nectarines, tomatoes and more. Each loop details about twenty stops, from farm stands, markets, tours, U-pick flowers and produce to festivals, wine tasting and farm-totable dinners.
The loops are popular and growing, with a new honey farm, a hops farm that serves beer, and several meat producers who are eager to meet those who enjoy the fruits of their labor. www.oregonfarmloop.com
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Central Oregon START IN downtown Sisters at the cafe named for the small, Western-themed city. Sisters Coffee Company still has the rustic atmosphere of the 250-square-foot wood cabin where it was founded in 1989, and was the area’s pioneer in roasting beans in five-pound batches. Sit under the shade of ponderosas on the patio of the 6,000-square-foot flagship cafe and roastery, and nibble entrees such as salmon lox toast with herbed goat-and-cream cheese, lemon fennel slaw, pickled onion and black sesame seeds. Sip a steamed breve espresso with upgrades such as barrel-aged bourbon stout syrup, caramel and a sprinkle of smokey Maldon salt. Work off the buzz on the mountain trails or at the Metolius River, and refuel back downtown at the Boone Dog Pizza food truck, where woodfired creations are made with locally and ethically sourced ingredients such as garlic cream, ricotta, blue and mozzarella cheeses, smoked bacon, black pepper and fresh basil. Nosh in the adjacent garden and grab a microbrew there, too. Stroll to Sisters Meat and Smokehouse for artisanal offerings elevating any sandwich, from the Reuben to French dip. It may be the only place where bologna on white could sound this appetizing. Walk to Mahonia Gardens Farm Stand and the Sisters Farmers’ Market for the May harvest of chard, lettuce, kale, spinach, carrots, radishes,
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turnips, rhubarb and fresh eggs. In June, you’ll find beets and broccoli, fennel, kohlrabi, and famous sweet local strawberries. If downtown Bend is your base, wake up to caffeine and inventive pastries from Lone Pine Coffee Roasters, Megaphone Coffee Company or Nancy P’s. With the nearby Box Factory and the Old Mill District, choices rival the number of microbrews poured on the Bend Ale Trail. From Italian, Japanese, Asian fusion and Mexican to Wagyu steak, artisan pizza and ice cream, you can keep it casual or opt for craft cocktails and stylishness. Climb or hike amid the lofty spires of Smith Rock State Park near Terrebonne and bring picnic fare from the Redmond Farmers Market. Call ahead to visit nearby Central Oregon Ostrich, one of the largest ostrich hatcheries in the Northwest and an advocate for humane farming. Discover why raising these birds is environmentally friendly and yields delicious, low-fat red meat. Terrebonne’s Rainshadow Organics farm store is a destination for vegetables, pasture-raised eggs and meat, bone broth, lard, pickles, plum jam, applesauce, hot sauce, tea, drinking vinegars and occasional farm-to-table dinners and camping. www.hdffa.org get-a-taste-of-this-place www.visitbend.com www.visitcentraloregon.com
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FROM TOP Dozens of local caffeine artisans include Lone Pine Coffee Roasters. Pick up organic vibes and food at Bend Farmers Market. Get close to farmers and great food in Terrebonne at DD Ranch and Rainshadow Organics, which offers farm-to-table dinners. (photos: Amanda Photographic)
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Apple Spring Farm in Cove offers organic fruit, vegetables and freshly made sweets and breads. Wallowa Lake is the perfect spot for a picnic. Wind down a day on the food trail with a cold craft beer at Terminal Gravity Brewing in Joseph. (photos: top, Eastern Oregon Visitors Association; bottom left, Talia Jean Galvin/Terminal Gravity)
Eastern Oregon BEGIN A CULINARY crawl
here with the Whisky & Rocks Farm Loop to get a taste of this region’s vast landscape with waves of grain. The past year may have prompted an eat-dessert-first attitude, so start your trek with Petit Noir Chocolates in Milton-Freewater. Seasonal creations such as shortbread with intricate, traditional German designs are sprinkled with rose petals and lavender buds. At Freewater Cider Company, sample the enhanced aromatics produced by their unconventional fermentation of whole apples. Keep it sweet on the River to Hills Farm Trail between Boardman and Pendleton.
Explore family farms known for watermelons, honey and lavender. Community Merchants in downtown La Grande is the source for Union County-raised beef, pork, lamb, goat, chicken, eggs, greens, locally made salsa, bison from Wallowa County and cheese from Umapine. Get cherry- and berry-stained lips at the La Grande Farmers’ Market. A great time to hit the trail here is at the kickoff of rodeo season at the 114th Eastern Oregon Livestock Show, June 7 to 13 in Union. Soak in the food-growing lifestyle by staying nearby at Almosta Farm in Cove, which raises goats, honey
bees, chickens and organic produce and fruit. The region’s restaurants are increasingly featuring local meat on their menus, including at the Geiser Grand Hotel restaurant in Baker City. Curious about life on a working ranch? Tell Geiser Grand owner Barbara Sidway, and she will arrange a visit for you. Heading north to Wallowa Lake, its glacial waters ringed by mountains, this idyllic spot is for all kinds of play, followed by picnicking. Even visitors can keep it local and authentic by ordering the area’s meat, produce and chocolates through Genuine Wallowa County Provisions. The online marketplace
delivers and lets you shop as a guest with no membership fee. Bring your pet with you to Barking Mad Farm B & B outside of nearby Enterprise. Sip coffee on the wrap-around porch as you watch the sun rise over the Wallowas and spy on the neighbors—deer, buffalo and eagles. Linger there, because the host will be bringing out your breakfast made from local, organic ingredients. Wind down the day at Terminal Gravity with craft brews such as the thick, creamy, Arrowhead Chocolate Stout brewed with cacao from local pals Arrowhead Chocolates in Joseph. www.eova.com/agritourism
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Visit orchards and hike Medford’s Table Rocks. Taste new flavors with Melodie Picard of Oregon Cheese Cave in Phoenix. Take classes about growing at Oshala Farm in Grants Pass. Go to Dunbar Farms in Medford for wine, music, produce and savory treats. (photos, clockwise from left: Travel Southern Oregon, Jean-François Durand, David Gibb Photography, Dunbar Farms)
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Southern Oregon MAY AND JUNE are ideal
months to explore here prior to peak season. Dunbar Farms in Medford is emblematic of the laid-back, high-flavor experience. Stop at The Honor Barn for the farm’s arugula, kale, spinach and bread and flours made from grains. Take what appeals and drop cash or a check in the box any day from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Head into the Tasting Room from Thursdays to Sundays for paninis, salads and the farm’s Rocky Knoll wines. With a trailer converted into a stage for music every Friday, spread out on the big lawn and keep it real. At Oshala Farm in Grants Pass, Elise and Jeff Higley are taking reservations for monthly tours of their organic herb farm after a year hiatus during the pandemic. “Our goal of the tours is not only to give people a glimpse into what it takes to grow herbs and food on scale, but to also give them tips on how to grow some of their favorite herbs in their own garden,” said Elise. Guests can expect to get their hands dirty in May and June doing seeding and transplanting and later in summer, harvesting and processing. At The Oregon Cheese Cave in Phoenix, self-described cheese “queen” Melodie Picard introduces aficionados and neophytes to cheeses from around the state and the globe in her 225-square-foot shop. Born in Normandie, Picard believes her accent helps
sway visitors into trying new styles, whether it’s sheep’s milk cheese or vegan Vtopian from Beaverton. Take a deeper dive into the cheese experience at Pholia Farm, on twenty-four acres about 10 miles outside of the town of Rogue River. At the base of Elk Mountain, Gianaclis and Vern Caldwell offer a glimpse into raising happy, healthy animals sustainably and how that translates to delicious cheese. If you find you don’t want to leave, stay. Take cheese-making classes and check into their refurbished 1970 Airstream or tiny Bunk House, surrounded by the original 220-acre Spring Brook farm started by Gianaclis’ parents in the 1940s. Counterbalance quiet evenings on the farm with festivities such as Brews, Bluegrass & BBQ on June 6 at RoxyAnn Winery in Medford, with eight hours of music in a family-friendly fundraiser for the Rogue Valley Food System Network. The Southern Oregon Lavender Festival, June 25 to 27 and July 16 to 18 unfolds at farms such as The English Lavender Farm in Applegate, where you can sip lavender lemonade and take home farm-made French grey salt with lavender, herbes de Provence with lavender and lavender jams, honey, syrups and salted caramels. Live music will lilt from barn to fragrant field. www.southernoregon.org
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Spiritual Sojourn R A M B L E AC RO S S O R EG O N , R A I S I N G A G L A S S TO T H E S E D E ST I N AT I O N - W O RT H Y C R A F T D I ST I L L E R S written by Vanessa Salvia OREGONIANS HAVE GOOD TASTE. We embrace quality. We are known for our fine food, farmers’ markets, craft beer and exceptional wines for the same reasons as our distilled spirits, made by one of the most active artisan communities of this type in the country. Some of these spots, such as Bendistillery, which has been making Crater Lake vodka and gin since 1996, are spirits pioneers. Others, such as Gompers Distillery, which opened in Redmond in 2019, are embracing an inspirational past while planning for a potent future. “An entrepreneurial spirit and a desire to always try and find a better way of doing things permeates everything Oregon, especially when it comes to locally made, handcrafted products,” said Alan Dietrich, CEO of Bendistillery. A craft distillery road trip lets you taste established and experimental (or in some cases, forgotten) spirits straight from the source and experience Oregon’s beauty along the way. Whether you’re in the verdant hills of wine country, the volcanic moonscapes of Central Oregon, or the purple mountain majesty of northeastern Oregon, each stop is as memorable as the spirits you’ll taste. Take your time while visiting these distilleries. Explore and ask questions. The stories behind the distilleries are as interesting as the libations.
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Rogue Ales & Spirits
Rogue Spirits of Newport has an extensive whiskey enterprise, plus gin, vodka and a killer location for Pacific sunsets.
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N E W B E RG
Ewing Young Distillery Ewing Young was a real person, the first distiller in the Oregon Country. He’s buried on the farm that bears his name, his grave marked by a heritage oak tree planted in 1846. The pioneers of the day wanted a temperate society, so they paid Young to quit distilling. He used the money to commence an epic cattle drive, bringing 600 head of Mexican longhorns up from California and began breeding and selling them, meeting the demand from pioneers. This helped break the Hudson’s Bay Company’s stranglehold on trading and helped spur a flood of westward migration on the Oregon Trail. Leveraging a clause in his original agreement, he fired up his still once again. “He changed the course of history here in Oregon,” said Bev Root, CEO and owner of Young’s eponymous distillery. Root distills four whiskeys, two vodkas and one gin that she says are exceptionally smooth. “We focus on blending and finishing to get the flavor profiles that we want,” she said. The distillery is on a privately owned working Thoroughbred farm, where two Kentucky Derby-winning stallions live and where Root’s brother-in-law is the head veterinarian. Visitors can take a farm tour, bring a picnic and play lawn games. The tasting area is all outdoors, making it a picturesque stop on the Newberg Distillery Trail, which connects five distilleries along a 30-mile route. F LO R E N C E & C H A R L E STO N
Stillwagon Distillery Rick Stillwagon does one thing and one thing well … smallbatch rum infused with eighteen flavors such as walnut and fig, hibiscus, and feijoa, a South American fruit grown in small quantities in the Northwest. They make their own flavor extracts and focus on sustainability by finding uses for their byproducts. Stillwagon’s rum is distilled in Charleston from blackstrap molasses and cane sugar. He got his start working in aquaponics, which led to raising koi, which led to water filtration science, which led to commissioning a steam engine, which led to water distillation for a project in India, which led to—fortunately for us—distilling
ethanol. Stillwagon’s also a woodworker, metalworker and tinkerer, which fits with the steampunk vibe of his Florence tasting room and the pirate-esque theme of the Charleston tasting room, where visitors can see the production process. N E W PO RT
Rogue Spirits Rogue is world-renowned for its ales, but it should be known for its spirits too, which they’ve been making since 2003. “One of the best kept secrets of the spirits industry,” says Jake Holshue, head distiller. (His official title is Level 11 Spirits Wizard, and he has the beard to match). Holshue started out as a homebrewer and now runs Rogue’s extensive whiskey enterprise, plus two types of gin and a vodka. Rogue coopers their own barrels, one of only three distillers in the country to do so (another is Jack Daniel’s). In 2019, the company launched canned cocktails, and you can take this 7½-percent, full-sized cocktail out the door. Rogue Spirits Sunset Bar across from the distillery is aptly named for its unmatched views of the sun going down over Yaquina Bay, an ideal spot for bidding adieu to a day of fun with a finely crafted cocktail. EU G E N E
Thinking Tree Spirits “Farm to flask” distillery Thinking Tree, which sprouted up in 2017, sources nearly all of its ingredients from Willamette Valley farmers. Items that can’t be locally grown, such as molasses, are sourced from local businesses. Everything is fermented and distilled in house. Erik Chapman, distillery operations manager, is proud to say the company is woman-owned, woman-led and dedicated to supporting the local economy and local farms which also have a sustainable footprint. They bottle two varieties of gin, barrel-aged rum, a wheat vodka, a single malt whiskey, bourbon and several brandies. The enterprise is on “Brewery Row” in Eugene, the same street as Oakshire Brewing and Hop Valley Brewing and walking distance to Heritage Distilling Company, known for its Brown Sugar Bourbon, and Wolf Spirits
“Farm to flask” distillery Thinking Tree, which sprouted up in 2017, sources nearly all of its ingredients from Willamette Valley farmers. Items that can’t be locally grown, such as molasses, are sourced from local businesses. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Taste the terroir at Thinking Tree Spirits in Eugene, which sources ingredients from Willamette Valley farmers. Rogue Spirits Sunset Bar is the place to sip at sundown in Newport. Stillwagon Distillery makes rum from blackstrap molasses and cane sugar and has tasting rooms in Florence and Charleston, with steampunk and pirate-esque themes, respectively. (photos, clockwise from top: Thinking Tree, Rogue Ales & Spirits, Stillwagon Distillery)
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Distillery, home of the award-winning Blood x Sweat x Tears Vodka. Thinking Tree bears a unique distinction in the area—a full on-premise liquor license, allowing them to serve full-size cocktails. B E N D A N D T U M A LO
Bendistillery In addition to vodka and gin, Bendistillery makes whiskey and rare spirits such as barley whiskey and reposado, tequila aged in oak. Bend Ale Trail destinations surround them, including next-door neighbor Deschutes Brewery, with which they frequently collaborate on innovations such as Black Butte Whiskey, distilled from the wash of Black Butte Porter. CEO Alan Dietrich revels in the company’s reputation as one of the first and most award-winning small-batch distilleries. The downtown tasting room offers an ideal entree into an evening, a great place to wait while you get texted that your table is ready at one of the nearby restaurants. Peek into the still’s operations in the Tumalo tasting room, or try oneoffs or barrels that were forgotten about in the warehouse in the downtown Bend tasting room. “Our rare spirits collection is literally just that,” says Dietrich. “Experiments, projects that never got off the ground, or things we’re trying to get off the ground. Being in this creative market forces us to stay on the cutting edge of what’s going on and we’re always looking for ways of creating something unique that no one has probably ever had before.”
BA K E R C I T Y
Glacier 45 Distillery Ryan and Kaylin Chaves focus on filtration for a clean, pure flavor with their approachably priced vodka, whiskeys and flavored spirits. The couple believes everyone should be able to enjoy quality spirits— and they don’t charge for tastings. Ryan is fifth-generation of a Baker City family, and started the business in a historic building they renovated. The building still has an old-timey feel, though, even while they’ve also embraced technology such an iOS app with short videos about each spirit and drink recipes. J O S E P H A N D L A K E O S W EG O
Stein Distillery Making vodka, rum, bourbon, whiskey and specialty spirits, Stein Distillery sources its own rye, wheat and barley from owner Dan Stein’s farm in Joseph. Corn comes from a farm in La Grande. Call ahead for distillery tours of their Joseph tasting room, done through a large window into the distilling operation. Stein opened a Lake Oswego tasting room in January 2020. Since opening in 2009, Stein Distillery expanded into creating rye vodka, rum, bourbon barrel-aged rum, whiskey barrel-aged rum, Steinshine (made with corn and barley) and two-year, five-year, and nine-year aged whiskeys and bourbons. Sample farm-fresh flavors in their cordials made from rhubarb and berries.
REDMOND
PO RT L A N D
Jessica and Michael Hart embrace the Prohibition Era in their 1920s-themed tasting room, but it’s not just for show. Gompers is Jessica’s maiden name, and the name of her grandparents, both Holocaust survivors from Holland. Opa (grandpa) Fermin is the jaunty character on the label and the inspiration for their business. Their tasting room has a secret bookcase room, open to those paying a one-time membership fee to their Founder’s Club. “When you walk in the door, you kind of leave everything from the 2020s behind,” said Michael. “Sometimes people dress up to come in, and I rarely even see people on their cell phones in here.” All decor is period. Even their cocktail list holds true to the 1920s. Go for the drinks, stay for the wallpaper—it’s the same gorgeous pattern as in “Boardwalk Empire.”
Aria’s London dry-style gin is heavy on the juniper, and the vermouth barrel-aging on the reserve line adds an unusual level of complexity. Their botanicals are always fair-trade, non-GMO, sustainably harvested and nearly all are organic. Erik Martin, co-founder and distiller, said their techniques take gin into a new space. “We get vermouth barrels from Imbue Cellars and leave the gin in there just long enough to extract a hint of that French oak character, dusted with the vermouth.” Taste their limited, special concoctions such as, for instance, a horseradish-flavored vodka. Everything on the downtown Portland tasting room cocktail menu, from spirits to ingredients to tools, is available to take home, and it’s fun to browse the barware curated by locally owned barware company Bull in China.
Gompers Distillery
Aria Gin
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Embracing the Prohibition Era at the 1920s-themed tasting room at Gompers Distillery in Redmond. Glacier 45’s marketing maven Kyana Chaves and Billy Hermann, distiller and production manager, in Baker City. Stein Distillery’s Dan Stein pauses at the production facility, which uses ingredients from his farm in Joseph. Bendistillery is a craft spirits pioneer which makes Crater Lake Spirits Estate Rye 363. (photos, clockwise from top left: Daylene Wilkins, Anna Clarke, Melissa Wagoner, Bendistillery)
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D’oh! Donuts photography by Emily Joan Greene
HOMER SIMPSON once mused, “Donuts. Is there anything they can’t do?” Channel the spirit of Simpson, of Springfield (yes, Oregon), at Portland popup @Mama Bird for Mikiko Mochi Donuts weekend mornings for flavors such as black sesame, marionberry pie-filled or wildcards like yuzu funfetti.
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FROM LEFT Donuts from Mikiko Mochi Donuts in Portland. Mikiko’s Joel Magruder puts donuts on a wire rack to cool.
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TOP LEFT Joel Magruder fills a baking pan with batter made from rice flour. BOTTOM LEFT, FROM LEFT Magruder pours rice flour and mixes the dry ingredients for batter before placing them in the oven. ABOVE, FROM LEFT Magruder removes donuts from a baking pan. Alex McGillivary tops donuts with ube-flavored glaze. DIRECTLY AT LEFT Donuts are garnished with sprinkles and other toppings.
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A Mikiko team member drizzles glaze over finished donuts.
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AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Joel Magruder (left), Emily Strocher (middle) and Alex McGillivary (right) with donuts in Mikiko’s production kitchen. Mochi donuts, ready for customers. MAY | JUNE 2021
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 80 ADVENTURE 82 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86
pg. 82 Adventuring in Corvallis means strolling, riding, hiking, eating and drinking.
Visit Corvallis
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92
travel spotlight
Explore how Oregon history connected to the national campaign for women’s voting rights and to the complex history of democracy in America.
Women, Race and Rights Historical Society explores Oregon’s place in the struggle for gender, racial equality written by Mary Grace Ward
Andrea Lonas Photography/Oregon Historical Society
EVEN WHILE SOME people of power are actively working to erase the hard-fought voting rights of Americans, nothing could be more relevant right now than Oregon Historical Society’s exhibit, “Nevertheless, They Persisted: Women’s Voting Rights and the 19th Amendment,” through December 5, in Portland. Oregon’s first constitution, from the late 1850s, banned slavery but also made it illegal for free African Americans to live in the state. In 1872, Mary Beatty, an African American woman who lived in Oregon, joined Abigail Scott Duniway, Maria Hendee, and Mrs. M.A. Lambert in an attempt to vote. With activists across the country, these four women brought attention to the campaign for women’s voting rights— known as “woman suffrage.” The exhibit explores how Oregon history connects to the national history of woman suffrage and to the complex history of democracy in the United States. It invites visitors to think about how and why political leaders denied women the vote, how women fought for equal rights, and how teamwork and fights across race, class and organizing tactics shaped this history. The exhibit relies on storytelling, interactive experiences and original artifacts and documents to prompt visitors to feel the struggles and triumphs of the women (and men) who demanded the vote and used their rights to shape our nation and our world. Learn more at www.ohs.org/museum/exhibits/neverthelessthey-persisted.cfm.
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VISIT
REDMOND OREGON
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Visit Corvallis
adventure
Hiking on the Alsea Falls Trail System about 30 miles southwest of town opens with a 2-mile climb up the paved Fall Creek Road.
Corvallis Comes of Age
Singletrack, a scenic summit and new ways to satisfy grownup and coed tastes written by Beau Eastes SOMEWHERE BETWEEN THE perfect singletrack decent at Alsea Falls Recreation Area, meatloaf to die for at Bellhop, and a Block 15 imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels with organic maple syrup, direct-trade Tanzanian cocoa nibs and coffee from Bespoken Coffee Roasters, I realized this was not the Corvallis of my early 20s. Sure, there’s still late-night opportunities at Clod’s and shuffleboard adventures at the Peacock, but holy Gary Payton, the home of Oregon State University might be Oregon’s next great mountain town. You’ll find out why, but first, settle in at one of the hotels along the Willamette River, such as the Courtyard by Marriot on SW 1st Street. You’ll have instant access to shops and restaurants and be within walking distance of campus, but not so close you have 82
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to hear all those dedicated coeds returning home from their latenight study sessions. You’re also close to 3rd and 4th streets, Corvallis’ charming downtown, home to a collection of great food and drink concepts. Base camp established, head out to take in the area’s natural beauty. My favorite way to do this is to spend a day mountain biking in the Alsea Falls Trail System about 30 miles southwest of town. Designed a bit like some of the classic Colorado trails, the Alsea Falls network opens with a 2-mile climb up the paved Fall Creek Road, and gravel doubletrack takes you another 2 miles to the top. The reward is 5 miles of flowy singletrack berms and switchbacks on dirt that stays soft and tacky through the summer and fall. If you’re looking for a hike—or much more technical mountain bike ride—Marys Peak, the tallest point on the Oregon Coastal Range, is a 5.2-mile out-and-back hike about two hours west of Corvallis. The trail climbs about 1,400 feet to the summit at 4,097-feet, and on clear days you can see the Pacific and the Cascade Range. Looking for a gravel ride? Try the 25-mile out-and-back ride to Drift Creek Falls. Or better yet, tackle a section of the 134-mile Willamette Valley Scenic Bikeway from Newberg to Coburg.
adventure
Visit Corvallis Bellhop
After a day of hiking, biking, or hike-a-biking, if you’ve bitten off more than you can chew, bite off something delicious to chew. Head to Bellhop, in what originally was the Hotel Corvallis—John. F. Kennedy stayed there in February 1960 courting Oregon Democrats—and serves what they’ve aptly named “meatloaf of the gods” and buttermilk fried chicken. Ask what the seasonal favorite on the menu, and you’ll be glad you did. Just a few blocks away is Block 15 Brewery, a leader in the Pacific Northwest in sour and wild beers. Block 15 turns out terrific pub fare, but you’ll kick yourself if you don’t try one of their seasonal farmhouse or wild beers using natural, spontaneous fermentation. Sky High Brewing a few blocks away crafts more traditional brews best enjoyed from their rooftop patio. Don’t let adventure and appetite get in the way of taking time to appreciate downtown Corvallis. The 99-year-old Whiteside Theater shows classic movies such as “The Princess Bride” and “UHF” and hosts live events. You can spend a whole afternoon talking books with the staff at Grass Roots Books & Music, or candles, jewelry and terrariums with the folks at ReStyle. Of course there’s the beautiful Oregon State campus, which during the school year is typically teeming with energy. Late spring and summer are great times to visit, but you will likely want to return some fall Saturday when the Beavers are out of town. Area trails are in great shape, seasonal produce is still available at the farmer’s market and in use at restaurants, and football is in the air, but it doesn’t overtake the entire community like home games do. If you time a return trip in September just right, you’ll hit Block 15’s annual “Blocktoberfest.”
Reed Lane Photography
Somewhere between the perfect singletrack decent at Alsea Falls Recreation Area, meatloaf to die for at Bellhop, and a Block 15 imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels with organic maple syrup, directtrade Tanzanian cocoa nibs and coffee from Bespoken Coffee Roasters, I realized this was not the Corvallis of my early 20s.
FROM TOP Marys Peak is the tallest point of the Oregon Coastal Range, west of Corvallis. Brew-sipping is done well on Sky High Brewing’s rooftop patio. Bellhop serves the aptly named “meatloaf of the gods.”
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TEEPEES
Robert Eckhardt
Three glamping teepees offer various configurations. The Eagle Nest Teepee is a standout, with a soaking tub as a centerpiece between two queen beds. All three sites are heated and can be enjoyed year-round. Bedding and towels are provided.
Crystal Crane Hot Springs
Crystal Crane Hot Springs
FEATURES
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Premier stargazing at Crystal Crane Hot Springs. Glamping sites include amenities such as soaking tubs. Take in a desert sunset while reclining in an outdoor soaking pool.
Lodging
Crystal Crane Hot Springs written by Lauren Sharp ESCAPE THE CITY (or suburban) lights and unplug for a spring reset by soaking under the stars at natural hot springs. Head 25 miles southeast of Burns to Crystal Crane Hot Springs, a relaxing oasis against the backdrop of the Steens Mountains. Plan to stay a while to fully enjoy the soothing benefits of the natural mineral water and soothing rural landscape. Camp in one of this rustic inn’s teepee glamping sites, several of which come with private soaking tubs for heightened indulgence. Travelers and locals have been frequenting this high desert gem for nearly a century. Established in 1923 as I & C Hotsprings, the Kraeger family has owned and operated since 1987. The property is also an ideal home base for exploring the Alvord Desert. Jump in your car and head down Field-Denio Road for a three-hour loop to explore the austere aesthetics of the salt flats and if you’re lucky, catch a glimpse of the remaining Kiger mustang herd running wild against a desert sunset. Spend the evening reclining in the property’s main outdoor soaking pool for breathtakingly clear stargazing. In the early days of the pandemic, a five-week closure gave the Kraegers a rare opportunity to make several updates to the property, including the addition of the “lobster pot pond,” an aptly named soaking tub with 107-degree water. The main outdoor soaking pool’s temperature rests at about 101 degrees and reaches a depth of about 7 feet for those looking to loll longer, take in a few more stars and plan a return visit. 59315 HWY 78 BURNS www.cranehotsprings.com
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Overnight guests have access to both outdoor soaking pools, as well as a community kitchen area, private showers and restrooms. Several glamping sites include private picnic areas, firepits, charcoal grills and soaking tubs.
DINING For optimal glamping, bring food and beverages with you as the closest dining option is in downtown Burns, about a thirty-minute drive. Local favorites include the Pine Room Steakhouse and Steens Brewing Company. Stop by Annie’s Bakery in the morning for house made pastries and freshbrewed coffee.
LODGING OPTIONS Aside from the rustic teepees, lodging alternatives range from the “Sheep Herder’s Wagon,” a converted covered wagon with a queen bed, to several cabins which face the main natural outdoor soaking pool and traditional hotel rooms with a Western flair in the main lodge. Standard campsite and RV sites are available, too.
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trip planner
Famed Field
Feel the buzz: the world’s top track, wine bars, a boutique hotel, galleries and restaurants written by Clive Ohlemann
SPRING BRINGS A REBIRTH and reconnection to Eugene. As the country cautiously emerges from the cellars of the pandemic to find trees greening and flowers blooming, something else is underway in Eugene. Hammers are not just being thrown at those at track meets, they are swinging as part of major capital projects that will define the city for decades to come.
Eugene adds to its storied history for its university and its track, and three new projects raise the city’s caliber higher still.
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In a city known for its university and its track, three distinct projects raise the caliber of Eugene as one of Oregon’s best. For track and field fans, this summer marks the first time that they will see and enter the University of Oregon’s new Hayward Field. After nearly two years and a reported $270 million, the already world-class, now world-classier house of Bowerman will host the U.S. Olympic Trials June 18 to 27. The all-new Hayward has international implications as 2,000 athletes from 190 countries will compete at the IAAF World Championships, which will be held in the United States for the first time and in Eugene, July 15 to 24, 2022. Two other projects may have more resonance with locals. The addition of the marketplace and hotel at 5th Street Public Market and a 16-acre riverfront redevelopment that will bring buzz to the quiet Eugene Water & Electric Board site across from Alton Baker Park. Look for this to open fall 2021. In this visit, we’ll bow to the traditional attractions of Eugene through Hayward Field and strike out on a quest for art and good food and wine.
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Eugene Saturday Market
Matt Parker/UO Track and Field
Andrew Nelson
trip planner
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Gordon Hotel is centered on local art and style. University of Oregon’s new Hayward Field opens after nearly two years of construction and a reported $270 million price tag. The Eugene Saturday Market is a downtown tradition.
Day TRACK AND FIELD • WALKABLE PLACES You’re going to spend the hottest part of the day at Hayward Field, under a blazing sun cheering for your favorite runners, throwers or jumpers, so you need a pleasant retreat when the day is over. On this visit, check in to the new Gordon Hotel downtown to start the weekend off on the right foot. The Gordon is a beautiful property and the third from Eugene native Brian Obie and Obie Companies. The 82-room pet-friendly boutique hotel is centered on local art and style, with more than 160 works of local art from 84 artists. Its Art Bar is stocked with art supplies and offers guests a chance to create their own masterpieces. The works of culinary artists, local brewers, vintners and ice cream makers are served to guests nightly. From The Gordon, it’s a two-mile walk to Hayward Field, but if you navigate the more scenic route, you will find sustaining morning snacks along the way. The Eugene Saturday Market and the Lane County Farmers Market, as well as Voodoo Donut are all en route to campus and Hayward Field. 88 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Feel the buzz at Hayward as the top runners compete at the top track and field facility in the world at a venue with a storied history in the sport. The connection between seeing these athletes live and on the podium in Tokyo again will be indelible for audience members this summer. Plan a quick break for a midday snack at McMenamins East 19th Street Cafe just a few blocks south of the stadium. A Ruby Ale, a salad and tots could do the trick or stay on the lighter side with a turkey sandwich. After watching U.S. track records fall, head back to The Gordon and try one of the new restaurants there. The casual Gordon Tavern on the street level serves comfort food with an eye to the Pacific Northwest. Carlita’s Rooftop on the seventh floor has views and Mexican small plates. Developed by restaurateur Mark Byrum of Urban Restaurant Group, these two restaurants join his other acts—Portland venues Bartini in Nob HIll and Brix Tavern in The Pearl District. If you’re visiting later in the year, a proposed speakeasy cocktail den may be open, though, albeit with a hidden entrance, so now you know.
CELEBRATE CREATE CONNECT
A BRAND NEW BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN EUGENE, OREGON
There’s always something new to discover at The Gordon Hotel at the 5th Street Public Market. Unwind in one of the 82 spacious guestrooms. Discover a new favorite art piece or create your own. The possibilities are endless... and the experience is unforgettable.
BOOK NOW at thegordonhotel.com
A sister Hotel to the Inn at the 5th 541.762.0555 | 555 Oak Street, Eugene, OR 97401
trip planner
Day Inspired by the athletes in town, take yourself for a run in the footsteps of one of the institutional founders of running in Eugene, Steve Prefontaine on the eponymously nicknamed Pre’s Trail. The four-mile long trail cuts through the idyllic Alton Baker Park on the opposite side of the Willamette River. Cross over using the Defazio footbridge and behold on the western bank one of Eugene’s biggest civic projects underway. Not many people visit Tracktown USA for art and wine yet, but they will soon. Aside from strolling through the collection of the area’s finest artists on the walls of The Gordon, head to the new Karin Clarke Gallery at The Gordon to take in twentieth century works, and take a two-minute walk to the White Lotus Gallery to finish with an impressive, small collection of Japanese and Chinese art. The urban experiences here also embraces the Southern Willamette Valley wine scene, which is understated and underrated. The great wines coming from this region take the form of walking-distance tasting rooms Tera Pacem, J. Scott Cellars, Pfeiffer Winery and Capitello Wines. Or make a day of it and drive a little more than 20 miles south to King Estate Winery for an immersive experience with great wines paired with grilled Chinook or lemon basil garganelli. If you’d like to make your own picnic, stroll into the 5th Street Public Market and find some of the best food known to Eugene, plus wine.
Day
Joni Kabana/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
ART • WINE
On your final day, let’s find the perfect mementos for the weekend, beginning with an iconic breakfast stop. Jazzy Ladies Cafe and Coffeehouse on 8th Avenue is known for outstanding, locally sourced, gluten-free fare and its waffles and eggs Benedict. Or saunter over to Provisions Market Hall and find coffee, croissants, quiche and every breakfast craving under one roof. The new Nike store at The Gordon is also a must for the U of O sentimentalist, as Nike founder Phil Knight and his wife, Penny, funded the new Hayward Field and many other projects on campus. Finally, cap the trip at one of Eugene’s longstanding family jewelry businesses, Skeie’s Jewelers, founded in 1922 by Norwegian immigrant, Ole Larsen Skeie. Let’s face it, you’ve been through a lot this past year. Isn’t it time to spoil yourself or your partner just a little at this iconic Eugene jeweler? 90 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Joni Kabana/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
BREAKFAST • INSTITUTIONS
EUGENE, OREGON
trip planner
EAT Carlita’s Rooftop www.thegordonhotel.com Gordon Tavern www.thegordonhotel.com King Estate www.kingestate.com McMenamins East 19th Cafe www.mcmenamins.com Ninkasi Brewing Company www.ninkasibrewing.com Provisions Market Hall www.provisionsmarkethall.com
STAY The Gordon www.thegordonhotel.com Inn at the 5th www.innat5th.com
PLAY Hayward Field https://hayward.uoregon.edu Wine tasting www.eugenecascadescoast.org/ restaurants/wineries Running on Pre’s Trail www.hikingproject.com/ trail/7016642/pres-trail
Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP 5th Street Public Market offers a top culinary shopping experience. Provisions Market Hall is ideal for a range of artisan foods. Running in the footsteps of Eugene legend Steve Prefontaine. King Estate Winery is one of many vineyards surrounding Eugene.
MAY | JUNE 2021
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northwest destination
Visit Seattle/Alabastro Photography
Seattle’s waterfront and Pike Place are among places to enjoy the city’s spirit of resiliency.
Seattle, the Reopening
Now is the time to become a tourist again, enjoy Seattle’s iconic places, with renewed appreciation written by Timothy Giffin
IN EARLY APRIL, I returned to Seattle after a year-long absence. Spring has never felt so much like opening a surprise gift from a distant admirer. Gulls whistled along Elliott Bay. Runners and cyclists buzzed along the waterfront trail, businesses set out their sandwich boards with alluring menus, families entered the aquarium, and Pike Place was in full swing. A spirit of resiliency lifted the shoulders of Seattle. At this point during the pandemic, a critical battle for supremacy was underway—the risk of reopening social and commercial institutions versus the speedier rollout of vaccines throughout the city. Behind it, a calculation that the latter would overcome the former, a bet just about everyone was willing to wage.
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SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
Raquel Ramero/ Japonessa Sushi Cocina
L. Fried
Elliott Bay Book Company
northwest destination
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Trodding the wooden boards of Elliott Bay Book Company to find the staff picks, Japonessa Sushi Cocina’s Barcelona Sunset roll and exploring the Seattle Art Museum anchor a visit to this city.
Launching from The Lotte Hotel, downtown’s handsome new property at 5th Avenue and Columbia, I ran down to the boardwalk, where the new Waterfront Park is well under construction. When finished this fall, Waterfront Park, largely in the footprint of the razed Alaska Way Viaduct, will comprise 20 acres of greenway and public spaces stretching from Pioneer Square to Belltown. While the project won’t be completed until 2024, residents and visitors will be able to enjoy earlier phases of the rollout. A run along Elliott Bay was a reset that I needed before renewing my vows with Seattle. I had to start at the beginning again and booked a time to hit the Seattle Aquarium, which had recently reopened to the public. Standing in the Underwater Dome, I realized that life goes on uninterrupted for lingcod and rockfish, and how serene that life appeared from where I stood. I’d just finished the book I was reading, so I made tracks west on Pike Street to support Elliott Bay Book Company to find my next diversion from reality. It’s a bit of a haul by foot, but worth trodding the wooden boards to see the staff picks, from which my selected new novel comes, A Million Drops, by Spaniard Victor del Arbol. I retread back downtown as a few drops fell in sparse patterns from a sky that didn’t look like it had a lot in it. Nevertheless, Von’s 1000 Spirits on 1st and University presented itself as a respite from the rain. I bored the bartender with my old-fashioned order and bored those on the patio around me by pulling out my new book and reading. Some reclusive habits die hard.
EAT Von’s 1000 Spirits www.vons1000spirits.com Charlotte’s Restaurant & Lounge www.thelottehotel.com Japonessa Sushi Cocina www.japonessa.com
STAY The Lotte Hotel www.thelottehotel.com Embassy Suites, Pioneer Square www.hilton.com Thompson Seattle www.thompsonhotels.com
PLAY Seattle Waterfront www.waterfrontseattle.org Seattle Art Museum www.seattleartmuseum.org The Space Needle www.spaceneedle.com Seattle Aquarium www.seattleaquarium.org
The next morning, I did something I hadn’t yet done over many years visiting Seattle. Up to Discovery Park, I went and put on my trail running shoes to get lost in its criss-cross of scenic trails and breathe in refreshing ocean air along the way. Still bent on starting from the beginning, I was bound for the Seattle Art Museum, followed by, yep, the Space Needle. These institutions stand on their own reputations, but I was also curious to see who is also masking up and continuing life, like terrestrial lingcod and rockfish, Wall-e finding the sprout of a plant. That evening, I found a spot at Japonessa Sushi Cocina and ordered Barcelona Sunset, a yellow tail-centered roll with habañero aioli and sushi pieces. Spain, Japan, foreign travel, I thought, will once again be possible in real life, a phrase that will hopefully die with the return to real life. IRL will revert to its Irish origin as the acronym for the republic. In another momentary getaway, back at Hotel Lotte, a South Korean-owned entity, staff members bow to hotel guests. The property’s Charlotte Restaurant & Lounge is known for its creative small dishes and cocktails. Even so, a feeling of place, of Seattle and its recovering businesses, overcomes me, and I am content with a local Georgetown Bodhizafa IPA while looking out over the Smith Tower, built in 1914 and the oldest skyscraper in Seattle. Having outlived the flu pandemic of 1918, the world’s deadliest in recent history, the Smith Tower, I mused, was an apt symbol for this visit. MAY | JUNE 2021
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 93
1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville
Eugene Springfield
John Day
Redmond
Sisters Florence
Joseph
Ontario
Bend Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass Brookings
Jacksonville
Paisley
Medford Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live
Think
Explore
16 A to Z Wineworks
46 Mason-Ehrman & Co. Building
80
Oregon Historical Society
24 Cason’s Fine Meats
48 The Gordon
82
Marys Peak
25 Party Eugene
48 SaltLine Hotel
84
Crystal Crane Hot Springs
26 Seely Mint
52 Icicle Tricycles
86
Jazzy Ladies Cafe and Coffeehouse
42 Molly Kubista
54 Meyer Memorial Trust
92
Seattle, Washington
94 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
MAY | JUNE 2021
Touch the water at the NEW Pier 62
1.2 miles of family fun at your Seattle waterfront
Park FREE at your Seattle waterfront*
EXPLORE YOUR WATERFRONT A day of water, views, community & fun
* Get
up to 3 hours FREE parking in Pike Garage with purchase on waterfront
SeattleWaterfront.org
Until Next Time A black-tailed fawn pauses in a pasture on a rainy morning near Elkton in rural western Oregon. photo by Robin Loznak
Continue for Special Insert
DESTINATION
GOLF NORTHWEST
FROM THE GREEN
THE RETURN OF
GENEROSITY TO GOLF
2 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021
FROM THE GREEN
BACK IN THE SWING, WITH RENEWED APPRECIATION WRITTEN BY MICHAEL PAYNE
B
Y THE TIME of publication of this article, many golfing fours will have been vaccinated, no matter what age. Solo golfing can go back into solitary confinement and stay there. The mass rollout of vaccines since January has created momentum for socializing, restaurant-going and for foursomes to come together for a long day of golf. It doesn’t seem that long ago that resort restaurants welcomed guests. That happy hour was indeed happy at the end of a round of golf, with longtime staffers working full time and earning a living. During Covid, many golfers never stopped playing but for the weather. Golf is not a contact sport and conforms as easily to social distancing as it does to socializing. Within the sport, however, it was the restaurants and bars and their chefs, waitstaff and bartenders, whose service and camaraderie make these the favorites of locals and visitors, that were the hardest hit during the past year. It is the return to these places that we highlight in the ensuing article. Acknowledge how hard the past year has been for those serving you and, this year, show your appreciation with generosity.
AT LEFT Kalispel Golf and Country Club is Spokane’s oldest and inspired by its natural surroundings. (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)
Cover: Running Y Ranch Resort (photo: Running Y Ranch Resort)
2021 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 3
FROM THE GREEN
FROM TOP The Golf Course at Wildhorse Resort & Casino, perfect for many skill levels. Reward yourself with a clubhouse sandwich and Oregon huckleberry margarita. (photos: Wildhorse Resort & Casino)
WILDHORSE RESORT AND GOLF CLUB You’ve just come off eighteen holes at the Wildhorse resort course, one of Golf Digest’s top casino courses, and off in the distance to the east are the comely Blue Mountains. Nearby is the reward for drives that held straight, shots that went un-duffed and putts predictably sunk. The Wildhorse Clubhouse Bar & Grill is the reward. Unwind with an Oregon huckleberry jalapeño margarita or the “mother of pearl,” the official cocktail of the Masters. Start with a Wildhorse cobb, adorned in slow-roasted pork, crispy fried avocado, egg, shredded cheddar, more veggies and ranch dressing. Because this is Pendleton, someone in the group should cowboy up with the cowboy burger, a stack of beef, bacon, an onion ring, cheese and a smothering barbecue sauce.
4 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021
Running Y Ranch Resort rolls out 300 days of sunshine for play in Southern Oregon.
FROM THE GREEN
(photo: Running Y Ranch Resort)
At Kalispel’s 1898 Public House, savor adventure off the course with offerings such as the Moroccan steak sandwich. (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)
KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Start with the things you can’t get at home at Kalispel’s 1898 Public House, named for the year the golf club was established. Korean beef sliders and calamari fries go well with a Woodinville smoked Manhattan or a lemon Huck Finn, sweetened by huckleberry puree, even a basil Martini would fit right in. Take your next shot from the roughage of a pear and arugula salad before settling into the “honey stung fried chicken” (honey-cayenne glazed chicken) or the cedar plank salmon Oscar, served with Pacific Northwest crab, asparagus, dill sauce and jasmine rice. The menu is deep and, in places, well traveled. The Moroccan steak sandwich, for one, is sirloin grilled in Moroccan spices, topped with onions, Boursin, balsamic and a lemon garlic aioli.
RUNNING Y RESORT After a day of slaying the greens, ask about the local greens from the resort’s greenhouse. Tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, rosemary and basil to name a few. The mixed green salad would be a good way to take in the local produce. Naturally, you’ll need another course after a day on the course. Bison meatballs in a mushroom brandy cream sauce make for a great place to start. The Italian sausage-and-pepper penne with garlic, rosemary, Parmesan and goat cheese is another fairway to play. Or build your meal backwards from an Oregon pinot noir or the side dish of saffron risotto. Any of these should play well.
2021 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 5
FROM THE GREEN
TETHEROW RESORT After you’ve come in from the recreated Scottish countryside of rolling blonde reeds and bunkers and muted greens beneath blue skies, you’ll find a local version of a Scottish ale on tap and views that could be from Gleneagles but are from Tetherow’s pub, The Row. Transport yourself to central Scotland at Central Oregon’s Tetherow, whose course is designed by Scotsman David McLay Kidd, also known for his courses at Bandon Dunes. The Row is a casual pub where Scotch eggs and fish and chips as well as a kale and quinoa salad are on the menu. The provenance of Bend’s craft breweries are on rotating taps, but if you must stray from this list, the ruby basil martini is worth the diversion.
Tetherow (photo: Jonathan Kingston/ Tetherow)
SALISHAN RESORT Oregon golf legend Peter Jacobsen had his hands on the 2004 makeover of the Salishan course on the Oregon Coast, but not the menu at Attic Bar & Lounge. Recount the best and worst of your play with signature cocktails such as the western meadows, a citrus vodka-based drink, or a Salishan sour, a shaken bourbon, lemon, pinot noir and orange bitters concoction. Stay close to the ocean with seafood green curry (clams, halibut, green curry and brown rice) and seared halibut with basil pesto, brown rice and a citrus salad with lemon herb dressing. AT LEFT Two words describe the play and stay at Salishan Coastal Lodge: legendary and luxurious. BELOW A Salishan sour leaves you stirred, not shaken. (photos: Salishan Coastal Lodge)
When we are all back together, let kindness reign and remember that those whose serve in your chosen golf club have had a tougher year than many of its members. Appreciation of their struggle during the past year through generous tips will help them going forward and show that you care.
6
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021
PLAY REST REPEAT! “One of America’s top casino golf courses.” - Golf Digest
VEGAS-STYLE GAMING Over 1,200 slots with all the latest reels and your favorite table games.
FINE DINING Six restaurants on-site with a delicious array of food choices.
7
STAY & PLAY from $20
Enjoy spacious rooms and suites with scenic views of the beautiful Blue Mountains and two challenging golf courses to choose from.
To see COVID-19 safety protocols visit wildhorseresort.com CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F Owned and operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation. 03499.TT.03.21
WHERE TO PLAY
MORE PLACES TO PLAY
OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47
CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40
GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82 8
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021
INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59
OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24
OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335
RUNNING Y RANCH RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95
SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99
SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175
Chehalem Glenn (photo: Chehalem Glenn)
TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190
*Note: Course lengths are given in yards
Ace your next golf getaway.
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Our Stay & Play Golf Package tees you up for a luxury stay at Northern Quest Resort & Casino, plus a round of golf on the historic fairways of Kalispel Golf and Country Club. Ranked 30th among the nation’s top 50 casino courses by Golfweek magazine, Spokane’s oldest and most celebrated golf course is part nature hike, part history lesson and part, well, the game you love.
Stay & Play, from just $209* Package includes: One-night stay at Northern Quest, one round of golf, access to Kalispel Golf and Country Club members-only facilities, golf shop discounts, and more. *Based on double occupancy.
Learn more at northernquest.com/nqgolf
WHERE TO PLAY
WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/ Salish Cliffs Golf Club)
STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)
BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100
GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95
THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE
PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB
www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165
www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109
PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA
THE HOME COURSE
www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139
www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49
INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE
WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB
www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49
www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155
SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $63-$109
SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38
Palouse Ridge Golf Club (photo: Rob Perry)
WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO www.wildhorseresort.com/ resort/golf Pendleton, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,112 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $45-$55
10
DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021
IDAHO COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99
PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56
TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards
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