Konfeksiyon Teknik Mart'14

T E C H N O L O G Y

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ISSN 1300-9974

C L O T H I N G

MART MARCH 2014

YIL YEAR 20

SAYI ISSUE 234

www.konfeksiyonteknik.com.tr

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20 y We are together with you for 20 years

MART | MARCH | 2014 YIL | YEAR : 20 - SAYI | ISSUE : 234

Group Chairman

Editor-in-Chief

Editorial Board Chief

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Tekstilde

Ali ERDEM

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114 ENGLISH

The Paris Capitale De La Creation awards were presented this year to Vakko, Özlem Süer, Esra Karadeniz and Hande Çokrak, following this event, Turkey was elected to participate as a “guest country” to Who’s Next, the biggest ready-to-wear exhibition of Europeto be held this year in July .

Istanbul Ready to Wear Exporter’s Association shakes up Paris atWho’sNext, the biggest ready-to-wear exhibition of Europe. The following fashion designers participated to the said exhibition: Esra Karadeniz with her accessories brand Ekria, Hande Çokrak, creator of Maid in Love ready to wear collection, and Özlem Süer, with her own-branded leather goods and scarf collections. The above mentioned fashion designers received their Vakko rewards (the pioneer brand of the sectorin Turkey) from the President of Paris Capitale de la Creation Xavier Clergerie and from President of Istanbul Readyto-Wear and Garment Exporter’s Association underlined Turkey’s journey to become a designer country this season, and that a record number of Turkish brands and fashion designers have participated to Who’s Next exhibiton. represented Turkey with a total of 41 brands and fashion designers and continued as follows: FRANCE, TURKEY’S 4TH BIGGEST EXPORT MARKET “Among the countries that Turkey exports the largest number of ready to wear and haber-

dashery goods to, France comes 4th in place.

Due to this fact, Who’s Next is an important international venue for Turkish brands and fashion designers. Turkey shall be a guest participant at the forthcoming Who’s Next exhibition in July 2014. We shall be organizing various events. We shall have the opportunity to promote Turkish fashion designs as otherwise this is quite a costly business for Turkish Fashion Industry and for Turkey. Turkey’s existing achievements in the textile area have paved the way for success especially in the fashion design industry toothanks to the projects it has upheld in the last years. This season in particular, with the support of Ministry of Economy, Istanbul Ready-to-Wear and Garment Exporter’s Association, and International Competition Development Support Project (URGE) 10 fashion designers and brands and 8 other fashion designers participated with their Fashion Incube project, a project that provides support and training to young fashion designers in the field of branding and going international have all participatedto the exhibition.

An increase in participation to the exhibitions each season is our greatest desire”.

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Turkish Ministry of Economy, Turkish Ministry of Development, Serhat Development Agency (SERKA), Reliable Sustainable and Environmentally Responsible Production Association (GUCDER) and Amsterdam Municipality came together to start the project “21st Century New Production Zone in Textile: Production Zone Responsible for Human and Environment”, one of the most comprehensive economic movements in the textile industry with the cooperation of public and private sector in Turkey.

Environmentally friendly production presentation of the project at a meeting held in Istanbul. The project launched with the idea of “sustainable life” responsibility, targets to make Anatolia a hub of responsible production for human and environment in textiles starting with Igdir, Agri, Kars and Ardahan provinces. The first step of the project was realized with Denim Factory built for FGTekstil of FG Group with an investment of 2 million investment which will be fol-

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projected to buy 100 Euro-products for the world markets from their Igdir factory by 2017. Gaining the fame of the first human and environmentally friendly denim production base of the world with FGTekstil’s investments, Igdir city has already started to market made in Igdir labeled products.

The project, which aims to make Turkey a production base responsible for human and environment, will contribute to the prestige and image of “Made in Turkey” origin worldwide. Speaking at the meeting FuatGozacan, Chairman of the Board of FG Group, said, “Turkey has been progressing to build up international brands in all fields. This progress will end up with adding value on Turkey’s textile industry for ‘Made in Turkey’ products, too. The better thing is that we take pride of having the first production responsible for human and environment in the world.

Human and environment concepts are the most important factors for prestigious brands of the world. We now add ‘made in Turkey’ feature in addition to these sought after features as being human and environmentally friendly.”

New employment areas Gozacan stated that the project would initially cover the provinces as Igdir, Agri, Kars and Ardahan adding that the production centers would be set up in these regions would provide employment for 4,500 heads. He also explained that each city would be the main production center for different products, FuatGozacan, Chairman of the Board of GUCDER and FG Group, added, “It is planned that those investors who will invest in Igdir, Kars, Ardahan and Agri provinces would be supported with 10 year-incentives and with 90% tax exemption with a 40% investment contribution.”

Women’s employment to increase Gozacan pointed out that the project would be one of the most comprehensive public and private sector cooperation projects adding that another task of the project was social responsibility. “The contribution of women to economy and production supports the development of the region on the one hand our people employed at contemporary conditions contribute to sustainability standards and economy and peace. With the standards we will set a company will save 48% water, 68% steam, 57% electricity and 57% time. We will make green production possible with these standards and open the gate of sustainable production.”

Competitive price against Far East The project covers the idea and conditions of producing at contemporary conditions at

most reasonable prices to reduce the costs to minimum level which leads the way to offer at most competitive prices in international arena. Each city will be the base for different product groups: Igdir will be the center of denim because of its nature with agriculture-rich economy while Kars will be specialized in nondenim fabric and product manufacturing because Kars is famous for animals and livestock.

Agri will be the production and supply base for combed cotton and tricots because the economy of the city has great capacity of agriculture and stockbreeding. The income level of the city is very low and it was listed among the most priority zones to be developed. Ardahan is planned to be the center of knitting products. The city is good at agriculture and stockbreeding but not good at industrial production or tourism. The project will contribute to the economy of the city a lot.

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Business world is concerned about the negative effects on growth and employment of rising rates of interests while capacity utilization, industrial output and exports seemed promising. Especially exporters have felt themselves squeezed on both sides, the financial costs and currency rates. While talking about the recent decision of Central Bank to raise interest rates, Chairman of IHKIB, Istanbul Apparel Exporters will pay the bill. He said, “If CB would take this decision in December by using other tools, the problem would not become chronic. The decision has destabilized the balances. This may not be a final cure for the problem. CB lost its control over financial instruments and act in line with the wishes of financial speculators.

Interest rates boomed more than expected. It means that the interest rate applied to small and medium sized businesses will be about 20 percent. Cost of money has increased radically. SMSBs will be in real trouble. Economy is not composed only of CB, the government is expected to take effective decisions to protect the producing companies.” Ismail Gulle, Chairman of ITHIB, Istanbul Apparel and Raw Materials Exporters Union, also shares the views above. He said that the cost of volatility in interest rates and currency rates would be paid by real economy. Gulle said, “CB has been forced to raise the interest rates. It postponed the decision at the beginning but then it adjusted it

heavily. CB should behave more courageous.

Under present conditions, realizing export targets will be a great success for exporters in the mid term. CB should review and reverse it decision on interest rates. Currency rates have to be kept in line with inflation rates gradually.

The value and prestige of Turkish Lira has to be protected against other currencies.” Cem Negrin, chairman of TGSD, Turkish Ready Made Industrialists Association, expressed its expectation about that the CB is aware of our needs for more stabile currency rates and makes this with small adjustments. Our exporters wrote loss in last month if they did not forwarded their transactions. They were already operating on the margins in the global arena. If they have to burden an additional cost of currency volatility they become red and Turkey will also loose. This should be well known. High volatility harms both importers and exporters. All players of the economy, including the CB should behave accordingly. Kemal Sahin, chairman of Sahinler Holding said, “CB raised the interests by five points unexpectedly. This will harm real industry seriously. The joint effects of rising costs of foreign currency and the money will once again destabilize the balance of the economy. But, I believe that, having built on strong bases Turkey will overcome all the problems she had encounter before the coming elections, and will prove herself that she is a powerful state in the global arena.”

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At InPrint (Hannover, 8th-10th April), Zünd will present its high-end automated digital cutting solutions for a diverse audience of industrial manufacturers. The company will demonstrate how its superior cutters can increase flexibility and take the performance of different production environments to the next level. Zünd will highlight the unique features of its cutting technologies, which are ideal to satisfy the specific needs of industrial sectors, and will show its profound knowledge of material finishing. The company will provide evidence of the digital cutters’ versatility, showing precisely cut samples produced by customers from a wide spectrum of industries, including automotive, aeronautics, electronics, interior décor, photovoltaic, medical and functional textiles. The advanced functionalities of Zünd digital cutting solutions enable customers to cut anything from flex prints and membrane keyboards, to lamp shades and suspended ceilings for interior decoration applications, as well as synthetic fibres like Aramid for protective clothing.

The automotive and aeronautics sectors can also benefit from Zünd systems’ capabilities to cut tachometers, leather for seats and steering wheels, carbon fibre, honeycomb materials and airbags. The range of jobs that can be fulfilled using Zünd equipment is vast. On its stand (F26) at InPrint, Zünd will display an advanced

modular G3 cutting system configured with an automated sheet-feeder for continuous and virtually unattended cutting of various sheet, board and roll materials. Zünd’s cutting systems are designed for 24/7 operation and the automated loading system further enhances their performance, providing manufacturers with a fully automated workflow and increased flexibility, whether creating prototypes or small and medium production runs. Oliver Zünd, CEO, explains: “Zünd cutters are the ideal engine to satisfy the demands of industrial production.

The camera-aided digital finishing systems enable customers to accurately cut printed and unprinted material up to 50mm thick. The modularity and its 16 different sizes also allow manufacturers to handle a broad array of materials up to 3.2 m wide.” Oliver continues: “Zünd cutters are well-known and respected in many demanding manufacturing industries.

Our long-standing expertise has allowed us to build a solid reputation in different sectors, and with over 20.000 systems sold worldwide we can confidently claim to be a leader in digital cutting. Existing and new customers can see the huge potential of Zünd technologies and their ability to cut both conventional and innovative materials to meet the demands of different production environments. InPrint is the right platform to showcase these capabilities.”

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The Hohenstein Quality Label “Innovative Technology” documents that a product has been extensively and independently tested with regard to both functionality and innovation potential. V-ZUG AG from Zug (Switzerland) were awarded the quality label of the Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim/Germany for their product Refresh Butler. The device refreshes textiles without washing while the new technology also actively reduces microorganisms.But on which tests is this type of certification based? To test efficiency, the experts at the renowned textile research and test institute first developed an interdisciplinary testing scheme for verifying the advertised properties of the device, such as reduction of bad odours and germs in clothing. The sensory team, who specialise in odour analysis, applied different unpleasant odours to representative sample textiles to evaluate the efficiency of the device. One of the substances used is a special sweat odour simulant. It was specially developed at the Hohenstein Institute for applying a strong sweat odour to textiles.

Cold cigarette smoke was used in further experiments. The efficiency of the Refresh Butler was always compared to airing the textiles in fresh air over the same time period. After 2 hours of processing time in the device or airing time, the smell of the jackets, blouses, etc. had to undergo strict testing. Specially trained professional

“sniffers” gave a direct and reproducible evaluation of the textiles with the help of a test device – the olfactometer. They do not know at what point the test device offers them the strongly diluted odour sample or the neutral reference air. The sniffers trigger a signal as soon as their sensitive noses detect a bad odour. A special software combines this signal with the output parameters of the olfactometer to determine the exact odour threshold for each sample material. This allows different test samples to be compared with respect to their odour intensity in a valid and reproducible way. Microbiological examinations determined which effect the treatment in the Refresh Butler has on bacteria.

The Hohenstein experts applied a defined mixture of different bacteria to the selected sample textiles. These included germs which cause unpleasant body odour in humans. The microbiologists then compared the quantity and composition of the bacteria after the treatment in the Refresh Butler and after airing. The extensive laboratory examinations showed that treating textiles in the Refresh Butler device is clearly superior to airing for reducing both unpleasant odours and germs. After a final comprehensive patent search and a technology evaluation, the Refresh Butler from V-ZUG AG was consequently awarded the Hohenstein Quality Label “Innovative Technology”.

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The CCI stand at Texworld in Hall 2/ F108 was the focal meeting place for the entire cotton supply chain – from fiber through to retailing. As the overseas marketing arm of the U.S. cotton industry, CCI experts briefed industry specialists and retailers with information about its global COTTON USA licensing, marketing and Supply Chain Marketing (SCM) program. The teams from CCI and Supima ® also supplied information on global developments in cotton trade among and other relevant topics. Through its COTTON USA licensee network, CCI’s SCM program creates new business contacts, lines up prospective suppliers and ensures greater transparency in terms of global procurement. CCI organizes conferences, sourcing trips and international summits for the textile industry, as well as provides individual sourcing support to foster relationships between buyer and seller. he COTTON USA no-cost license is awarded to mills, manufacturers, retailers or brands that meet CCI’s quality criteria. The COTTON USA Mark reinforces the quality of the products to which it is attached and helps enhance the value of those goods to consumers. CCI provides recipients of the COTTON USA license with support to promote their U.S. cotton products, ranging from marketing assistance and point-of-sale promotions to multimedia consumer campaigns and public relations. At the CCI stand, visitors to Texworld also had an opportunity to discover more about Cotton LEADS™, a joint effort of the U.S. and Australian cotton industries to promote re-

sponsible fiber production. Combined, Australia and the United States account for roughly 17 percent of global cotton production, which is why the bodies representing cotton industries in these countries have come together to show their full commitment to sourcing responsiblyproduced cotton. Cotton LEADS™ assures retailers, brands and textile manufacturers (seeking transparency in their supply chain) that their partners can easily source reliable and responsible raw material. As part of this program, the founding members and signatories of Cotton LEADS™ have committed to five core principles – commitment, recognition, understanding, belief and confidence – as the foundation for an effective program that fosters the ability of supply chain entities to meet the world’s demand for responsibly-produced cotton. A natural, readily renewable and biodegradable resource, cotton now represents roughly 80 percent of all natural fibers consumed. It is the largest natural fiber in the global fiber, textile and apparel economy, and as a food, feed and fiber crop in the United States, it is subject to strict legal controls. CCI Chairman Jimmy Webb said “The U.S. cotton industry recognizes that sustainability requires a commitment to continual improvement.” He continued “U.S. cotton producers, including myself, have systematically adopted modern technology to reduce the environmental impact of cotton, and Cotton LEADS™ will make the textile supply chain more aware of what we’ve been doing for years.”

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Turnover figures in modern retail sector reached up to 100 billion dollars in 2013 and around 700 thousand workers have had their share in this, stated Küçük, while retail market figures added up to a total of 215 billion dollars in 2013, this year the figures shall increase up to 250 billion dollars.

President of the International Council of Shopping Centers (TAMPF)Vahap Küçük, drew attention to the fact thatduring the second half of 2013 we have passed through developments that may jeopardize the steady amelioration

process carried on for 10 years in Turkey, “None of us have the right to state that developments that may have negative consequences on economic stability is of no concern for us” he said. President of the International Council of

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Shopping Centers (TAMPF)Vahap Küçük, discussed about the sectoral data as well as the recent developments at the “2013-2014 Evaluation / Briefing Meeting” he held.

WE HAVE COMMON VALUES THAT NOBODY CAN OPPOSE TO Vahap Küçük, in the speech he gave at the ter, he stated that the steady improvement in Turkey’s economy for the last 10 years has been appraised both abroad and at home.

“As a top representative institute of the sector representing the sector that plays a major role in the country’s economy, considering that people who eat the bread of this country, who produces and endeavors to contribute to the country’s economy would not express any opposition against certain values, we in turn give importance to such values as well” said Küçük, and continued: ”Recognizing the fact that contributing to the country is the greatest value of all, our most important priority is the unity and integrity of our country, and we believe that nobody can advocate to the contrary. Besides this, any individual who aspires to contribute to the growth of his country should acknowledge that economic stability is as indispensable as basic needs such as air and water. None of us have the luxury to state that economic stability and therefore, developments that may have negative im-

pact on economic stability is of no concern for us. The following phrase that frequently comes to our minds regarding the world we are living in, is also true to our country namely: “We did not inherit this world from our forefathers but rather it has been entrusted to us by our children”. We underline again that our only concern is to carry forth this beautifulcountry, entrusted to us by our children,towards better days”.

GROWTH RATE IN 2013 WAS 13 PERCENT President of the International Council of Shopping Centers (TAMPF) Vahap Küçük said that a 13 percent growth rate was achieved in 2013 as a result of 100 billion dollars turnover in the modern retail industry incorporating 78 thousand stores. Last year jobs were created for 100 thousand people and thus 700 thousand people were employed in modern retail industry. We have to focus on how businesses shall remain in operation in the year 2014 stated Vahap Küçük, “We must defer further profit and growth for the next years. Cash management is of foremost importance above all else. It comes before both profit and growth” he said. sKüçük underlined the fact that nowadays motivation is high, and that we should work harder in order to provide better quality services, “If the need arises, we should shut down the unfruitful locations. We are sentimental in such matters” he concluded.

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