Adventures with Chocolate

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Contents Unadulterated 28 Sometimes only pure chocolate will do

Fruit and Nuts 40 Introduction 6

The first thing you do with chocolate is eat it 10

So much more than raisins and hazelnuts

Sugar and Spice 62

How to taste chocolate. Profiles of different cocoa beans. Tasting table: how to match chocolate varieties with other flavours.

And all things nice

The process of making a chocolate truffle 18

Alcohol 106

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tasting filling tempering rolling decorating eating!

Flora and Fauna 84 For the wild at heart

Chocolate with an extra kick

Apothecary 128 The mad scientist bit Suppliers 158 Index 159

Specification Publication: October 2009 • ISBN 978-1-85626-829-5 • Format: 240 x 210mm, PLC only • Extent: 160pp Word count: 30,000 • Price: £16.99 • Illustration: Colour photography throughout • Rights: World, Kyle Cathie Kyle Cathie Ltd, 122 Arlington Road, London NW1 7HP • general.enquiries@kyle-cathie.com • www.kylecathie.com

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Variety/origin

Characteristics

35–40% Java milk chocolate

Creamy, milk being predominant, and a sweet, sometimes caramel or toffee finish.

Not complex in cocoa flavour but very comforting and indulgent. Some milk chocolate contains malt extract, giving a rounded and warm taste.

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Fruity, slightly acidic, mouth watering, lighter in-mouth feel and ideal for summer.

An alcoholic characteristic can sometimes be evident from the fermentation of the cocoa beans.

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Criollo varieties have a delicate and fragrant finish, especially those of Chuao and Porcelana varieties. Highly complex and often unusual. Higher percentages are still fragrant and not overpowering. Earthy, toasted bread crust, spices and even tobacco can be identified.

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Strong robust, liquorice, treacle toffee and molasses can often be experienced.

Intense long finish and a clear cocoa taste in the mouth.

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Madagascar

Venezuela

Dominican Republic

Flavour ◆

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matches and recipe ideas

A touch of sea salt tempers and balances the sweetness.

Cinnamon, nutmeg and winter spices combine well to warm and comfort.

Slow-roasted almonds and hazelnuts make a classic combination; add a touch of sea salt and you have an outstanding blend.

Try naturally dried fruits like apricots, peaches and figs – the balance of intense caramelised fruit sugars with milk chocolate can be stunning.

Summer berries, raspberries, strawberries and cherries.

Sea salt will enhance the chocolate adding sparkle and character.

Tangy flavours pair well including cranberries, Marmite, passion fruit, gin, fruity red wine and salted caramel.

Think chocolate and raspberry tart, chocolate sauce over fruit ice cream, chocolate-dipped strawberries and other summer fruits.

Thoroughly enjoyable and indulgent for hot chocolate when the weather isn’t too cold.

Toasted sesame seeds, almonds, hazelnuts, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, Sichuan pepper, mild chilli, and cloves all pair well individually or as mixed flavours.

Woody herbs such as rosemary, thyme, lavender and sage balance well.

Think autumn and winter: rich caramel, sticky toffee pudding, hot chocolate sauces, chocolate puddings and rich strong hot chocolate.

Spices work well: warming chilli, black pepper, and cinnamon.

Brazil nuts and walnuts add bite and balance.

Grenada

Smaller producers mean rarer, interesting varieties. Increasingly complex flavours encompass florals, woods and fruits.

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Eat on its own to fully appreciate the complex and intriguing flavours. No need to blend or mix with anything.

Ecuador

A new favourite of mine with truly unique characteristics including banana, blackberry, hazelnuts and citrus fruits. A delicate fragrance permeates through to the nose and an earthy finish rounds the chocolate well. Coffee, vanilla and delicate spices are also present.

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Muscovado caramel, concentrated fruit compotes, marmalades and jams match well.

Pair with gentle spices e.g. pink pepper, green cardamom, cassia, saffron.

Roasted nuts, fresh and dried coconut and tropical fruits all balance well.

Pot au chocolat, chocolate mousse and soufflé all sparkle.

Delicate character. Woody and spicy.

Chocolate, grassy and green tastes. Citrus and tropical fruits often present.

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Bold and robust, not too bitter and a definite tobacco and coffee edge.

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Trinidad

Ghana

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Pair with honey, figs and oranges. Think lightly cooked oranges, green tea and fresh green herbs such as basil and coriander.

Cedar wood, sandalwood and pine all match well as do toasted nuts and baked pastries and biscuits.

A fantastic baking variety as it has a strong chocolate taste with a hit of cocoa at the end. Great for brownies, coffee and chocolate desserts.

Makes a fantastic, robust, dark chocolate truffle.

Great in savoury recipes as it has strength and character.

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Makes 12 large cupcakes

uscovado chocolate cakes with cocoa nibs and mayan spiced syrup My name is Paul A Young and I am a cake-a-holic. I cannot imagine my life without the humble cake, whether it’s for afternoon tea, a quick coffee break or a stolen hour gossiping with friends. Moist and sticky with crunchy cocoa nibs and an aromatic sweet-spiced syrup, these cakes are the perfect dessert served warm with real vanilla ice cream or cold with rooibos or Earl Grey tea.

FOR THE CAKES

115g self-raising flour 65g dark cocoa powder – Valrhona is my choice but buy the best quality possible ⁄2 teaspoon sea salt

1

185g unsalted butter 225g unrefined muscovado sugar 85ml double cream 2 medium free-range eggs

ytiu Paul’s

secret to baking the perfect chocolate cake Always use the purest ingredients possible and be brave! Never open the oven until the cooking time is up and don’t overcook as this will deliver a dry, sandy cake.

50g cracked cocoa nibs

FOR THE MAYAN SPICED SYRUP

200g unrefined golden caster sugar ⁄2 fresh nutmeg, grated

1

1 cinnamon stick, broken in two ⁄4 teaspoon chilli powder

1

ytiu ( 68)

Sugar and Spice

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4.

Place the flour, cocoa, salt and butter in a large mixing bowl. Rub between your fingers until the consistency of breadcrumbs is reached. Add the sugar and mix well.

Fill a measuring jug with 85ml hot water, then add the cream and eggs. Whisk well. Pour into the dry mixture and mix until smooth.

For the cupcake cases, you can either use shop-bought paper cases, or for a more contemporary style, cut 15cm squares of non-stick baking parchment and scrunch up tight in your hand. Open the scrunchy paper out just enough to fit into your muffin tin. Fill each one three-quarters full with the cake mix and sprinkle on plenty of cocoa nibs. Bake for 12–15 minutes until very springy to the touch. Remove from the muffin tray and place on a wire rack to cool.

To make the sugar syrup, bring 200ml water, the sugar and all the spices to a simmer for 5 minutes. Allow to infuse for 15 minutes. Strain through a sieve into a jug.

While the cakes are still warm, slowly and gradually feed each one an even amount of syrup until glossy, allowing the syrup to soak fully into the cakes. If serving as a plated dessert, save some syrup to drizzle over and around.

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yServes 4

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lmond and amaretto chocolate tortellini with blood orange and pine nuts One of my all-time favourite pasta recipes and it’s a dessert. The bitter chocolate dough, creamy almond filling and zesty blood orange balance beautifully to make a really show-stopping pudding. Be creative and change the filling with the seasons; add herbs, spices and different fruits. The best part is it can all be prepared in advance so can easily be put together for a dinner party.

FOR THE PASTA DOUGH

25g plain flour

350g pasta flour (tipo 00)

50g ground almonds

50g cocoa powder 2 eggs

6 amaretti biscuits, crushed

2 tablespoons cold water

50ml amaretto liqueur

1 tablespoon almond oil (or other nut oil)

FOR THE FILLING

50g butter 50g caster sugar

FOR THE BLOOD ORANGE SAUCE

4 blood oranges 100ml stock syrup (see page 132) 400ml double cream

175ml milk â „2 vanilla pod, split and scraped (save the pod for vanilla sugar)

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1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk to seal the tortellini

TO DECORATE

50g toasted pine nuts A few basil leaves, thinly sliced

For the pasta dough, place all the ingredients in a food processor and whizz until a soft but firm dough is formed.

Alternatively, mix the dough by hand in a large mixing bowl.

Wrap in clingfilm and put in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Using a pasta machine, roll the dough into thin sheets and cut out circles using a cutter with a 10cm diameter. If you don’t have a pasta machine, use a rolling pin. Lay the pasta discs on a plate and cover. Refrigerate until ready to fill.

To make the filling, cream the butter and sugar in a bowl.

Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well.

To fill the pasta, take a pasta disc and wet the edges with egg yolk. Place a teaspoon of the filling in the centre. Fold the disc over and pinch the edges together to form a half-moon shape. Holding the filled pasta in both hands, with the straight edge facing down, bring each corner together and pinch, forming a parcel. Store in the fridge until needed.

To make the sauce, zest the oranges using a fine grater. Then segment the oranges over a bowl so you keep all the juice that escapes. Place the stock syrup and orange zest and juice in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes.

Add the cream and simmer for a further minute. Remove from the heat and add the orange segments.

Bring a large pan of water to a simmer. Drop in the tortellini and simmer for 3 minutes or until they float on the surface.

Remove and drain.

Divide the tortellini between the serving bowls, and spoon over the blood orange sauce and segments. Decorate with toasted pine nuts and shredded basil.

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Flora and Fauna

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Makes 2 generous cocktails

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ocoa bramble cocktail I reinvented the classic Bramble cocktail one autumn evening when the air in the city changed from warm and balmy to the first cool breeze of the new season. The thought of autumn makes me shiver with excitement: golden colours, warming ingredients and cosy nights on the sofa with comforting chocolate.

FOR THE CHOCOLATE LIQUOR

300g unrefined golden caster sugar 150g 70% dark chocolate pieces

First make the chocolate liquor. Put 150ml water in a saucepan along with the sugar and bring to a simmer.

Allow to rest for 2 minutes. Put the chocolate pieces into a bowl and pour over the sugar syrup. Whisk well and leave to cool thoroughly.

Meanwhile, place 2 martini glasses in the freezer for at least 30 minutes to get the frosted effect.

FOR THE REST

Lots of crushed ice Juice of ⁄2 lemon 1

100ml gin – Tanqueray or Plymouth Dry 25ml crème de mur (blackberry liqueur) 8 blackberries 2 squares of your favourite dark chocolate

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Alcohol

In a cocktail shaker or jug place the lemon juice, gin, crème de mur and six of the blackberries. Muddle and mix well until the blackberries burst slightly.

Place a pyramid of crushed ice into each glass. Pour over the blackberry mixture, divided between the two glasses.

Now pour over the chocolate liquor to top up, and place a blackberry and a piece of dark chocolate on top of each ice pyramid.