DON’T HESITATE TO RENOVATE B Y C A P T. F R A N K L A N I E R
Always pull wires at the flattest angle possible to the tubing to reduce friction.
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P H O T O S B Y C A P T. F R A N K L A N I E R
ith the explosion of must-have electronic doo-dads on the market today, the owners of small to midsize center console vessels may find themselves struggling to find enough real estate to mount even the most basic of required electronics. Center consoles equipped with a T-top provide additional mounting options, and owners typically take advantage of this by installing an overhead electronics box. The hardest part for most DIYers tackling this project will be routing the cables and wires to the new box. Some take the cheesy way out by simply fastening wire bundles and cables to the outside of the tubing, but routing them internally when possible provides both protection and a neater, more professional looking installation. Routing wires through the maze of aluminum or stainless steel tubing may look daunting, but stepping back and taking the time to visualize the installation prior to starting will often simplify things. Once you’ve planned the route and (as necessary) drilled your entry and exit holes, the next step is running the wires. Feed the snake While there are a number of options available for pulling wires, the most common is using an electrician’s “fish tape” or snake. Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and sharp bends. Snakes made of tempered wire are commonly used and can be purchased at most any hardware store; however, newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials are also available. Regardless of which style you chose, you’ll want to be able to twist the snake to better make turns and bends, reducing or eliminating the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation. The first step is feeding the snake through with no wiring attached. Once this is completed, attach the cable or wire bundle to the bitter end of the snake, then pull everything back through. Make this attachment point to the snake as small as possible to make the pulling easier; you may also want to cover the attachment point with a few tight wraps of electrical tape to make it more streamlined. In addition to wire snakes, other options I’ve used with varying degrees of success range from weighted strings to a shop vac. The former involves simply feeding a string weighted with a sinker or small washer
Wire Like a Pro T-top wiring made simple.
into the top hole of the tubing and using gravity to carry it down to the exit hole. For the shop vac trick, tie a piece of tissue, cotton ball, or foam ear plug to the string, then feed it into the topmost hole while holding the shop vac intake hose at the bottom hole (you may have to use duct tape to get a good seal). When you have the string through, use it to thread a pull wire (heavy fishing line or weed wacker mono works good) and then use that to pull the wires through. Drilling tips At some point during your installation you’ll likely have to drill holes, either at an electronics box or at individual mounts. For wire runs with multiple turns, it may also be necessary to drill a small pilot hole at the second turn (depending on how sharp it is) to guide the snake along. Aluminum is softer and easier to drill than stainless, however, in both cases you’ll want to use a metal center punch to prevent the drill bit from walking as you start drilling. Use a good quality, sharp drill bit for best results; however, if larger diameter holes are required, a hole saw may be a better option. In both cases, slower drill speeds will provide better control. Holes should be drilled in areas of low mechanical stress (such as horizontal tubes) and should be cleaned of sharp edges using a de-burring tool or rat tail file to prevent damage to wire insulation while pulling. Wire pulling 101 When pulling wires, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to the tubing to reduce friction. This approach also puts less stress on the wire, while reducing the chances of tears or damage to insulation or the wire itself. A solution of soapy water can be applied (to allow the wires to slip through the tube with minimal resistance); however, some folks worry that soap can damage the insulation or possibly cause corrosion. A better idea is to purchase special wire pulling lubricant, such as 3M’s Wire Pulling Lubricant Gel. For larger wire bundles, you may want to stagger the wires where they’re attached to the fish, which both reduces the profile of the joint and makes it easier to pull around tight bends. Finally, you’ll always want to include and leave an extra pull string in place when pulling the wire bundle to assist with future installations. ★
LAKELANDBOATING.COM
Routing wires internally (unlike what’s shown here) provides both protection and a neater, more professional appearance.
CAPT. FRANK LANIER is an award-winning journalist, boat maintenance guru and owner of Capt F.K. Lanier & Associates, Marine Surveyors and Consultants:
CAPTFKLANIER.COM.
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SEPTEMBER 2020
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