Orange Coast magazine - April 2021 by The Lifestyle Magazines of SoCal

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS /

U IN G O

DANA POINT EARNS HIGH HONOR

IGHT EL D A P R I L 2021

best new

S T Y L I S H O P T I O N S F O R AT-H O M E D I N I N G

APRIL 2021 $5.95

Duo elevates Dana Point

A welcoming surf club

WHALE HERITAGE SITE

OPEN WATERS

The new chapter of healthcare begins here At UCI Health, we don’t just practice medicine, we create it. Now we are writing the next chapter for healthcare in Orange County. With UCI Medical Center Irvine-Newport, UCI Health will bring our QBUJFOUT VOQBSBMMFMFE FYQFSUJTF MFBEJOH FEHF USFBUNFOUT BOE UIF ƋOFTU FWJEFODF CBTFE DBSF UIBU POMZ BO BDBEFNJD NFEJDBM TZTUFN DBO PƊFS The 800,000-square-foot medical campus will be anchored by a state-of-the-art hospital, which will PƊFS IPVS FNFSHFODZ DBSF BOE QFSTPOBMJ[FE DBODFS USFBUNFOUT JODMVEJOH IVOESFET PG DMJOJDBM USJBMT by our NCI-designated comprehensive cancer center. Our world-renowned experts will also deliver exceptional care in other specialties, such as digestive diseases, neurosciences and orthopaedics, all powered by the University of California. We stop at nothing to build a healthier tomorrow. Learn more at ucihealth.org/irvine-newport

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CITY OF HOPE’S WORLDRENOWNED EXPERTS OFFER LEADINGEDGE LUNG CANCER SCREENINGS AND PROGRAMS

Ravi Salgia, M.D., Ph.D. & Tingting Tan, M.D., Ph.D.

City of Hope Orange County is fighting for better lung cancer outcomes by providing leading edge early detection screenings, innovative prevention programs, and top experts in lung cancer research, diagnosis, and treatment. The world-renowned cancer center is currently taking appointments for lung cancer screenings at its Newport Beach location, with screening taking place at Newport Diagnostic Center. The painless and non-invasive exam uses low-dose spiral computed tomography (LDCT) and takes only seconds. Patients receive their results and consultation with City of Hope experts who specialize in the prevention and treatment of cancer. For those whose tests indicate cancer, there is immediate access to City of Hope’s world-renowned

multispecialty team of lung cancer experts, along with outstanding compassionate care for patients and families. “Orange County deserves its best shot against lung cancer,” says Ravi Salgia, M.D., Ph.D., the Arthur & Rosalie Kaplan Chair in Medical Oncology at City of Hope, and one of the world’s leading experts on lung cancer treatment. “That’s why we are introducing a screening program that detects lung cancers earlier and greatly enhances the odds of survival.” You may qualify for a lung cancer screening if you are a high-risk current or former smoker. You may also qualify if you are outside the standard criteria or have additional risk factors. For more information on the screening program, call 626-535-3983.

CITY OF LEADERS Powered by more than 1,000 physicians and scientists whose expertise beneﬁts 100 million people around the world each year, City of Hope is solely focused on treating and curing cancer. Now, this lifesaving care is available for you, your family, your neighbors, and all your friends…right here in Orange County.

COMPREHENSIVE CANCER CENTER OPENING IN IRVINE IN 2022

Edward Kim, M.D., M.B.A., Senior Vice President, Vice Physician-in-Chief and Orange County Physician-in-Chief

Discover safe and expert care at City of Hope Newport Beach. CityofHope.org/OC or (949) 763-2204

APRIL 68

BEST RESTAURANTS

So much of our dining scene has been lost and gained, invented and deferred. It’s a lot to digest, so we’re breaking down the changes in servings of five. After all the lessons we’ve learned over the past year, we’ll never lose sight of this truth: Restaurants are essential.

“Already I feel a loosening in 2021 that might allow us to refine our act beyond comfort cuisine. I look forward to exploring finer flavors and intricate plating.” —JUSTIN WERNER, BELOW, CHEF AT PORCH & SWING, OUR RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

BY GRETCHEN KURZ

WHALE CIT Y, U.S.A.

Once bitter rivals, Donna Kalez of Dana Wharf Sportfishing & Whale Watching and Gisele Anderson of Captain Dave’s Dolphin & Whale Watching Safari worked together to have Dana Point recognized as the first Whale Heritage Site in the Americas. BY ASTGIK KHATCHATRYAN

ON THE COVER

Kampachi with haricots verts, yuzu pearls, and bubu at Porch & Swing in Irvine Photograph by Emily J. Davis

8 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

GENEROSITY GOES A LONG WAY MAKE AN IMPACT IN A CHILD’S LIFE

G I V E T O D AY.

CHOC.ORG/DONATE

APRIL 64

14 21 22 24 26 31

EDITOR’S LET TER PEOPLE & PL ACES Yoga among the cherry blossoms at Huntington Beach Central Park ’HOODS Restaurants and a gym worth a visit near Honda Center in Orange C U LT U R E P H I L E Irvine hip-hop artist St. Panther is a rising star. O.C . E VENT S In-person events including concerts and live theater start to ramp up this month. ST YLE & HOME A Mackenzie-Childs checkerboard tea kettle

10 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

32 34

SOURCED Patterned dining accessories to elevate your takeout experience AT H O M E W I T H . . . Lemdeena Home in Mission Viejo features handmade goods from North Africa.

ON THE MARKET A magnificent, sprawling backyard in Brea

HOT SHOP Costa Mesa boutique Style Society moves into bigger digs.

FOOD & DRINK The Smoky Paloma Rosa from Chaak is our Cocktail of the Year.

DISH OF THE YEAR Nova Kitchen & Bar’s toro tartare features grade 1 bluefin tuna flown in from Spain.

5 QUESTIONS WITH ... Co-founder of Barrio at SteelCraft Garden Grove

FOOD TRENDS We can’t get enough of these frozen-dumpling delivery companies.

MY O.C . A search for perfection ends with more questions than answers.

DINING GUIDE Check out all of our 212 restaurant reviews this month.

116

PERSON OF INTEREST Costa Mesa resident Vanessa Yeager is the founder of Women Who Surf and Latinx Surf Club.

116 WEB EXT RA S

Cathy Thomas shows how to prepare delicious asparagus risotto adorned with crisp prosciutto dust. orangecoast.com /cathythomas

For the latest on what’s happening in Orange County, head to our homepage. orangecoast.com

Read more about local events and happenings. orangecoast.com/events

@ORANGECOASTMAG

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

DUMPLING PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF YUMMI DUMPLINGS

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APRIL SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTIONS IN THIS ISSUE

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EASY ACCESS OFF TUSTIN RANCH ROAD, NEAR BARRANCA IN TUSTIN Photo: Spaghetti alle Vongole at Luna Rossa Ristorante

EDITOR’S LETTER

ur annual Best New Restaurants issue has been sliced and diced a little differently this year (as has everything). In the most difficult era for restaurants that any of us have seen, we wanted to honor our favorite new places, and to congratulate longtime establishments and others for ﬁguring out how best to thrive in upside-down circumstances. In the process, I think we’ve given you a mouthwatering guide to where to make your reservations, this year even more than previous ones.

In addition to the five courageous ventures that opened just prior to or in the midst of a pandemic and still wowed us, we’re also highlighting five restaurants that created new strategies, five we can’t wait to return to for meals the way they were meant to be enjoyed, and five places to try for each trend we’ve spotted. Math isn’t my strong suit, but that’s a lot of dining for you to take advantage of. If you’re like me, you’ll be pleased to see that most of the spots we feature have fantastic outdoor space. There aren’t many things that sound as appetizing as an excellent meal on a pretty patio as we head into marvelous spring weather. (Be sure to include the peach-infused bourbon cocktail at Porch & Swing in Irvine.) Congratulations to our five Best New Restaurants (Page 68) as well as all the places we love in O.C. for managing to survive this year. We hope the coming months are filled with diners getting back to the tables, the patios, and the terraces to raise a toast and indulge in a scrumptious meal.

MS. AL AN GIBBONS E D I T O R-I N-C H I E F A G I B B O N S @ O R A N G E C O A S T.C O M

M Y F AV O R I T E T H I N G S I N T H I S I S S U E As people start to feel safer, we’re seeing more live events happening. Pick your favorite and take part!

A perfect memory can be re-created, but perhaps not always enjoyed the same, as this writer finds.

PA G E 2 6

PA G E 6 6

It’s awesome to learn about the two women who worked to get Dana Point recognized as the first Whale Heritage Site in the Americas.

Vanessa Yeager’s passion has caught on with hundreds of local surfers. PA G E 116

PA G E 86

14 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

illustration by M A R T H A N A P I E R

Start here. Create a kitchen that’s uniquely yours. The Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Cove showroom has everything you need in one place: informative consultants, an inspiring chef, innovative designs, and interactive products.

SCHEDULE A SHOWROOM APPOINTMENT 657.269.5874 subzerosocal.com/costamesa OR SCAN HERE

655 Anton Boulevard | Costa Mesa, CA 92626 Hours: Monday - Friday 9a.m. to 5p.m., Saturdays 10a.m. to 3p.m.

E D I T O R-I N - C H I E F Alan Gibbons

PUBLISHER Shelby John Russell srussell@orangecoast.com

DESIGN DIRECTOR Andrew Hart

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT Linda Wallis Goldstein lgoldstein@orangecoast.com

SENIOR EDITOR Astgik Khatchatryan

ACCOUNT DIRECTORS Randy Bilsley, rbilsley@orangecoast.com Edward Estrada, eestrada@orangecoast.com Dionna Harris, dharris@orangecoast.com Richard Lockhart, rlockhart@orangecoast.com

D I G I TA L M E D I A E D I T O R Michelle Pagaran ST YLE & HOME EDITOR Chelsea Raineri

HEAD OF EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Traci Takeda, ttakeda@orangecoast.com

DINING CRITIC Gretchen Kurz

D I G I TA L D I R E C T O R Ping Tsai, ptsai@orangecoast.com

PHOTOGRAPHER Emily J. Davis

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Denise Philbert, dphilbert@lamag.com

EVENTS EDITOR Robin Jones

P R O D U C T I O N C O O R D I N AT O R Mallory Young, myoung@lamag.com

COPY EDITOR Shayna Sobol

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EDITORIAL INTERNS Crystal Chang, Hannah Dilanchyan, Brett Super

S A L E S A N D M A R K E T I N G C O O R D I N AT O R Julianne Quirong, jquirong@lamag.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Terry Black, Benjamin Epstein, Greg Nagel, Valerie Takahama, Cathy Thomas

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SOUTHEAST Whitney Dick, wdick@atlantamagazine.com

CONCORDIA UNIVERSIT Y IRVINE

Above and beyond. Forward in Faith – The Campaign for Concordia recently surpassed its $85 million goal and raised over $100 million, making it the most successful campaign in university history. Concordia would like to thank the thousands of donors and friends in the Orange County community for their support and the impact their generosity will have on its students for generations.

CUI.EDU/FORWARDINFAITH

NEWEST • FRIENDLIEST • SAFEST morongocasinoresort.com/playsafe

PEOPLE

PLACES

IN PL AIN SIGHT ¼ T H E S C E N E Yoga instructor Sarah Frolich between cherry blossom trees at Huntington Beach Central Park ¼ B E H I N D T H E S H O T Frolich is the founder of Yoga in HB Central Park, a community organization offering donationbased yoga classes. “We believe yoga should be accessible to everyone. If this pandemic has taught us anything, it’s that we need to take care of ourselves mentally, physically, and spiritually.” ¼ E X P L O R E R C R E D I T @yogainhbcentralpark

33°42'9.65"N 118°00'11.52"W

April 2021 • ORANGE COAST 21

PEOPLE

PLACES ’ H O O D S

EAST OF CENTER

Worthwhile spots have sprouted up in ORANGE near Honda Center. by Robin Jones

¼ G O O D TO KN OW

S AU CE D B B Q & S PIR IT S

A N CH O R B A R & R E S TAU R A NT WE S T

The first SoCal location of a Northern California minichain specializes in slow-smoked, Southern-style barbecue. Ribs, brisket, wings, and pulled pork come in plates and combos ($18 to $38) with sides such as cornbread, waffle fries, and baked beans. Patrons enjoy rotating taps serving beer from the restaurant’s brewing company and local brewers including Chapman Crafted Beer in the large outdoor seating area. 1535 W. KATELLA AVE., 714-639-9104

22 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

PR IME CUT C A FÉ

H A N G A R 18

It’s widely believed that Buffalo wings were invented at the Buffalo, New York, location of this restaurant in 1964. Since then, other locations have popped up, but none in California—until this spot opened early this year. The menu focuses on wings, which you can get boneless or traditional-style with a dozen sauces. The kitchen also makes meatless wings ($14) and cauliflower wing bites ($9). 1547 W.

This local favorite has all the trappings of a traditional steakhouse: cozy booths, low lighting, and dark-wood wine racks along the walls. Prime rib, filet mignon, strip steak, and prime hanger steak ($30 to $45) are the main attraction, but the hamburgers ($16 to $19), with beef that’s ground in-house, also have a loyal following. Specialty martinis ($10) dominate the drinks menu, and many wines are available by the glass and half-glass. 1547

Ownership of this climbing gym changed last summer, even though the sign outside still says Factory Bouldering. Despite the shift, visitors can still enjoy more than 9,000 square feet of climbing walls, including four bouldering sections where you can climb without a rope, along with a fitness area and member lounge. Climbing is available by appointment only for now, and membership is required ($54 per month). 1547

KATELLA AVE., 714-944-8034

W. KATELLA AVE., 714-532-4300

W. STRUCK AVE., 657-282-0074

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SAUCED BBQ & SPIRITS

At Sauced BBQ & Spirits, dishes such as the Carolina pulled pork sandwich come with your choice of the restaurant’s four signature barbecue sauces.

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PEOPLE

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C U L T U R E P H I L E

FA S T T R A C K S

Irvine hip-hop artist St. Panther is a hit on radio, TV, and Michelle Obama’s playlist. by Valerie Takahama

t. Panther is the stage name of Daniela Bojorges-Giraldo, who refers to herself as “a nerdy-looking hip-hop artist.” But those in the know are more likely to describe the 26-yearold singer, multi-instrumentalist, producer, and Creekside High alumna as a “lightning-bolt talent” poised for a major breakthrough. Her funky, buoyant single, “Infrastructure,” landed on the soundtrack of HBO’s “Insecure,” and “These Days,” an indie radio favorite, made it onto the former ﬁrst lady’s Spotify playlist last summer. St. Panther is booked at the Fireﬂy Music Festival in Delaware later this year. We asked the singer about her O.C. roots.

growing up, were in the advertising field, so they did a lot of commercials as creative directors, and they’re both painters. It was a very creative house. My dad’s a pianist. Since I was very little, my mom had this tape recorder that I always ran around the house with just singing into. We still should have some of that stuff, tapes of me jazz scatting and writing little songs here and there, and poems. I was just a creative kid, from the jump. ORIGINS OF A STAGE NAME

like a cub now. You’re sensitive and you’re absorbing things, and you need to turn into a little panther.” It’s a term of endearment from my dad. A MUSICAL FOUNDATION I (had) a teacher named Matt ¼ Westfall at West Coast Drum Center in Santa Ana, and that’s where I got my strong music beginnings. What he taught me was the real foundations of reading music and rhythm. Thanks to him, I’m able to semitranscribe things and sight-read, and I have the framework of music theory, which I really appreciate now.

It’s the combination of two ¼ nicknames. My friend would call me “Saint,” and my dad would call me “Little Panther” when I was a little kid. I would get a lot of bullying in school. I think it’s just the nature of being a gay, brown kid in a conservative area. My dad was noticing my demeanor was different coming home from school. He was like, “You know what, you’re 24 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

HIGH SCHOOL EMPOWERMENT I was lucky enough to ¼ graduate from a high school where the teachers were encouraging entrepreneurship. I feel like at Creekside, the teachers really tried to empower us. That’s how I started recording other artists locally and producing myself. Those things really served to

help my career goals. It was unique. I was very fortunate to have teachers like that. BEHIND “THESE DAYS” A friend of mine passed ¼ away on his birthday last year. It was a really hard hit to the friends I grew up with. We were a very tightknit group, and his house was like the reunion house where we would go and

see everybody. There would be a family vibe there. I got the news when I was home, and I couldn’t much do anything other than write that night. It was like the song came right out, honoring his life. And then the pandemic hit, and looking around, I felt like the whole world is kind of in a dormant season. So calling it “These Days” was very natural.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LINDSEY BYRNES

CREATIVITY AT HOME My parents, when I was ¼

SPON S O R E D C O N T E NT

HEALTH AND WELLNESS

Teryn Clarke, MD and Ivar E. Roth, DPM /MPH

PAINCUR™ Emerges as a Medical Advance for Curing Chronic Pain The pain in Jeff Goffman’s injured thumb was so debilitating, he had planned to have surgery. William Manrow had eight back surgeries but still complained of sciatica and uncomfortable stiffness in his legs.

hese patients and many more are no longer feeling discomfort thanks to a newly developed treatment administered by Dr. Ivar Roth, Hoag Hospital’s highly accredited Founding Chairman of Podiatric Surgery. The treatment, trademarked as PAINCUR™ entails several injections of an FDA approved drug into the exactly pinpointed base of the nerve. Alleviation of pain is almost immediate and long lasting or permanent, according to patient testimonials. Part acupuncture, derived from wisdom of the ages, part state-of-the-art medical technology, using an advanced drug, and part intuitive medical knowledge, derived from Dr. Roth’s vast experience and expertise in his specialty ﬁeld, this new treatment is viewed as a revolutionary and long awaited alternative to other forms of pain mitigation that can be addictive, invasive or cause unwanted side eﬀects. Dr. Roth explains the methodology of this newly developed protocol, saying, “There is a neurological connection that exists between the foot and other parts of the body, including the knee, hip, back and sciatic region. The same neurological connection also exists between the hand and upper body parts. By applying treatment to the nerve endings in the hand, we have been able to remediate pain in the

shoulders, neck and even the hand itself." Jeff Goffman, a recent patient, claims his chronic thumb pain was remediated immediately upon treatment. “I tried everything, including PRP, months of rehab, and consultations with an orthopedic surgeon. The pain was so debilitating, I was ready to try surgery,” he says. “After the first treatment, it was like the pain had never even existed.” “My pain was so severe that I could not sit for more than a few minutes,” says Manrow, who, after treatment, got much welcome relief from his debilitating discomfort. “The improvement of my condition is remarkable.” With the efficacy of the treatment proven over and over again, Dr. Roth reached out to his trusted colleague and respected Newport Beach neurologist, Dr. Teryn Clarke, who immediately recognized the value of this protocol and has since joined Dr. Roth to administer this effective method of pain alleviation to her patients.

According to Dr. Clarke, 40 percent of the general population will experience chronic pain during their lifetime. “I see this as a promising treatment for so many conditions, including slipped discs, pinched nerves, fibromyalgia, and a host of chronic pain disorders,” says Dr. Clarke. “It has the capability to tap into the feedback loop in the nerve, unlocking the door to a pain-free life. Best of all, this new medical technology doesn’t impair cognitive function the way long term use of pain medication does. This is the alternative we have been looking for.” So far, 100 percent of Dr. Roth’s patients claimed to have their pain significantly diminished or totally remediated after completion of the PAINCUR™ protocol. “I knew this had the potential to cure pain but even I was surprised that it has been successful on every single patient I have injected,” says Dr. Roth, whose office staff has extensively interviewed each patient to determine the treatment’s efficacy. Relieving pain with the PAINCUR™ method is the first step of treatment for many of Dr. Roth’s patients. A very important aspect of this treatment is to also take care of the underlying cause of pain, according to Dr. Roth. “Foot, leg, knee, hip and back pain is typically rooted in improper function of the foot,” explains Dr. Roth, who has developed a unique orthotic to correct the gait and improve posture. “When the foot positioning is corrected, the hip sinks back into its socket and the back straightens out. This restored alignment remediates the stress that otherwise inflicts the foot, joints, leg and back. As a foot specialist I have worked with so many patients seeking to restore the quality of life that comes with pain free mobility. Being able to offer a revolutionary and highly sophisticated treatment option that works is truly gratifying.”

If you are suffering from pain call Dr. Roth’s office to schedule a free consultation and complimentary initial first test shot. Patient testimonials available to view on YouTube: Sciaticur.

Dr. Ivar E. Roth DPM/MPH Concierge Podiatry and Spa 495 Old Newport Boulevard Suite 300 Newport Beach, CA 92663 949.650.1147 | www.sciaticur.com

DR. IVAR ROTH • Highly accredited and trained in foot and ankle surgery at Mt. Sinai Hospital of Chicago with world-renowned podiatrist Dr. Lowell Scott Weil Sr. • Founding Chairman of Podiatric Surgery at Hoag Hospital of Newport Beach. • First podiatrist awarded full orthopedic privileges for foot and ankle surgery at Hoag Hospital, Newport Beach.

PEOPLE

PLACES

N O T E : THE EVENTS LISTED HERE WERE SCHEDULED AS OF PRESS TIME IN EARLY MARCH. RESTRICTIONS FOR GATHERINGS CAN CHANGE SUDDENLY, SO PLEASE CHECK BEFORE MAKING PL ANS TO ENSURE YOUR IN-PERSON EVENT IS HAPPENING.

APRIL 23 TANGO ROMANTICA

Renowned Argentine tango dancers Miriam Larici and Leonardo Barrionuevo will dance in Casa Romantica’s courtyard, accompanied by live music, in this performance. The two are known in the dance community as one of the top tango couples in the world and work regularly as choreographers, including stints on “So You Think You Can Dance” and “Dancing With the Stars.” Casa Romantica Cultural Center and Gardens, 415 Avenida Granada, San Clemente, 949-498-2139, casaromantica.org

APRIL 22 TIMELESS MELODIES: FRANK SINATRA, PART 2

Held in the Key Courtyard at Bowers Museum, this lecture from music educator and historian Larry Maurer will take a look at Frank Sinatra’s comeback in the 1950s, when an Oscar victory for his role in “From Here to Eternity” catapulted him back to fame. During this era, he released 14 albums and some of his most iconic recordings, including “Come Fly With Me” and “In the Wee Small Hours.” Reservations are strongly encouraged. Bowers Museum, 2002 N. Main St., Santa Ana, 714-567-3600, bowers.org

DON’T MISS IN APRIL

Concerts, festivals, live theater, and more by Robin Jones

IN-PERSON EVENTS IN APRIL

APRIL 7 ORCHESTRA COLLECTIVE OF ORANGE COUNT Y

A quintet of performers from Orange County’s collectively run symphony will play selections from Dvorak and Mozart in this outdoor concert held in Casa Romantica’s courtyard. 26 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

Alumni from Casa Romantica’s Summer Music Festival and Academy will open for the classical musicians. A limited number of $1 tickets for children ages 6 to 16 will be available. Casa Romantica Cultural Center and Gardens, 415 Avenida Granada, San Clemente, 949-498-2139, casaromantica.org

APRIL 24 AND 25 EARTH DAY CELEBRATION

Swing by this event to learn more about the environment and how to be kind to our planet. The festival will honor Earth Day and have activities for kids and interests for adults, too. Check the website for speciﬁc details. Julianne and George Argyros Plaza at Segerstrom Center for the Arts, 600 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-556-2787, scfta.org APRIL 29 AND 30 “ROMEO AND JULIET”

Shakespeare’s classic tale of warring families and star-crossed lovers in Verona has been staged many times, in every format imaginable. In this presentation from the Southern California Shakespeare Festival Guild, the story will be told in the traditional style. Casa Romantica Cultural Center and Gardens, 415 Avenida Granada, San Clemente, 949-498-2139, casaromantica.org

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF CASA ROMANTICA

E V E N T S

PEOPLE

PLACES

THROUGH APRIL 24 SHANE GUFFOGG: “40 YEARS OF SELF-PORTRAITS”

“ U N T I T L E D M A S K-2 01 9-4 ” B Y S H A N E G U F F O G G C O U R T E S Y O F O R A N G E C O U N T Y C E N T E R F O R C O N T E M P O R A R Y A R T; P H O T O G R A P H B Y J O E S A N D I C H E

This exhibit surveys the self-portraits Guffogg has been creating over the past 40 years, since he was a teenager. The drawings, pastels, watercolors, oil paintings, and sculptures reflect the artist’s perspectives on his life as he became a painter known for abstract works that have been shown around the world. Viewing is available by appointment only. Orange County Center for Contemporary Art, 117 N. Sycamore St., Santa Ana, 714-667-1517, occca.org

ONGOING LIVE EVENTS

City National Grove of Anaheim citynationalgroveofanaheim.com Drive-In OC concerts featuring DJs, bands, and comedians continue at the concert venue. Every car can listen to the show via the PA system or the car’s FM radio; meal kits, snacks, beer, wine, cocktails, and soda are available for purchase at the venue and are delivered to your car. Recent past performers have included Tribal Seeds and Whethan. The Frida Cinema thefridacinema.org The cinema’s “Pop-Up Drive-In” series offers drive-in movie screenings of classics such as “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” and “The Shining” and new releases such as “Minari” and “Wolfwalkers” in various venues across Orange County, including the Zion Lutheran Church and School in Anaheim and the Mess Hall in Tustin. Segerstrom Center for the Arts scfta.org The center continues its movie nights on the Argyros Plaza on weekends as well as wellness classes on the plaza. Past classes have included yoga, African dance, and Broadway dance seminars. Check the website for specifics and updates. April 2021 • ORANGE COAST 27

PEOPLE

PLACES VIRTUAL EVENTS APRIL

APRIL 19 THROUGH 25 IMAGINOLOGY

The popular S.T.E.A.M. (science, technology, engineering, arts, and math) festival goes virtual this year, with a scavenger hunt, educational games, videos, and an e-sports tournament and expert panel. Top student work from the festival’s annual competitions in collage, cosplay, digital art, drawing, painting, photography, poetry, and 3D art will also be on display. OC Fair and Event Center, 714-708-1500, ocfair.com/imaginology

Kim, a pianist known for her engaging performances, burst onto the classical music scene in 2016 with her debut album, the wellreceived “10 More Minutes.” She often breaks with tradition by talking with the audience during her concerts, and she connects with her fans through her podcast, “Journey Through Classical Piano.” Muckenthaler Cultural Center, 714-738-6595, themuck.org APRIL 7 BOTANICAL COLLECTIONS OF THE SANTA ANA ZOO

Zoo director Ethan Fisher will discuss the plant collections at the zoo, his plans about how to use them in the future, and the potential of the zoo’s botanical side in this free virtual lecture. Sherman Library and Gardens, 949-673-2261, thesherman.org APRIL 9 STUART PALLEY

Photojournalist Palley will discuss his work documenting the California wildﬁres with Douglas McCulloh, artist and senior curator at UCR Arts: California Museum of Photography. Palley has taken photographs for National Geographic magazine, The New York Times, and The Washington Post and released a book, “Terra Flamma: Wildﬁres at Night,” in 2018. Newport Beach Public Library Foundation, 949-717-3892, nbplfoundation.org APRIL 9 BRENTANO QUARTET

Formed in 1992, the quartet—which includes Serena Canin on violin, Mark Steinberg on violin, Misha Amory on viola, and Nina Lee

28 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

on cello—has played in top concert halls around the world, including Carnegie Hall, the Konzerthaus in Vienna, and the Sydney Opera House. Currently the resident string quartet at the Yale School of Music, the group is known for commissioning works from up-andcoming composers. In this virtual concert, they’ll play music by Hadyn, Bartók, and Brahms. Philharmonic Society of Orange County, 949-553-2422, philharmonicsociety.org APRIL 16 SHAHZIA SIKANDER: BEAUT Y, POWER, AND EXTRAORDINARY REALITIES

Sikander, an artist whose work has been shown in the Whitney Museum of American Art, the Museum of Modern Art in Sydney, the Irish Modern Museum of Art, and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, will discuss her latest work and her upcoming book, “Shahzia Sikander: Extraordinary Realities” in this Witte Lecture. Her ﬁgurative paintings, sculptures, and installations explore and upend traditional themes with an eye toward cultural identity and gender. In the virtual conversation, Sikander will talk with Meg Linton, chief executive officer of the Newport Beach Public Library Foundation. Newport Beach Public Library Foundation, 949717-3892, nbplf.foundation THROUGHOUT APRIL “THE STORY OF MY LIFE”

This Drama Desk Award-nominated musical examines the friendship of two men, Thomas and Alvin, who were inseparable in childhood, but grew apart after Thomas moved away for college. Thomas is called back to his hometown after Alvin’s death and struggles to write a eulogy until Alvin appears as a ghost and the two reconstruct their lives together. Chance Theater, 714-777-3033, chancetheater.com

APRIL 22 THE GLOBAL WARMING PROBLEM AND SOLUTIONS

Engineers Craig B. Smith and Bill Fletcher will discuss their new book, “Reaching Net Zero: What It Takes to Solve the Global Climate Crisis,” in this online lecture. Using straightforward and easy-to-understand language, the pair will talk about what causes global warming, what the consequences might be, and how some practical solutions could help mitigate the problem. Ticketholders will receive a link the day before and will be able to watch the lecture anytime on the day it is released. Bowers Museum, 714-567-3600, bowers.org APRIL 24 JEAN-YVES THIBAUDET

Thibaudet, a two-time Grammy Award nominee, will perform Debussy’s Préludes, Books 1 and 2, in this virtual concert. The celebrated pianist has played as a soloist across the globe, recorded more than 50 albums, and joined the Hollywood Bowl Hall of Fame in 2010. Known for branching out from classical music into jazz and opera, Thibaudet’s recordings have been included on soundtracks for movies such as “Atonement” and “Pride and Prejudice.” Philharmonic Society of Orange County, 949553-2422, philharmonicsociety.org APRIL 25 JAPANESE CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL

To celebrate the annual blooming of the Japanese cherry trees, this livestreamed festival will feature art, music, and dance. Familyfriendly presentations will include instructions on how to create origami shapes and design an ikebana ﬂoral arrangement. Bowers Museum, 714-567-3600, bowers.org

P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F O C FA I R

APRIL 1 JEEYOON KIM

PEOPLE

PLACES

ONGOING ONLINE OFFERINGS

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF MUSCO CENTER FOR THE ARTS

Chance Theater chancetheater.com The theater continues to host its regular series of “Chance Cyber Chats,” in which actors, directors, and producers who’ve worked with the theater lead panel discussions about Broadway shows streaming on Broadway HD. The theater’s video series, “Chance Encounters” and “Some Good News O.C.,” is also ongoing. Irvine Barclay Theatre thebarclay.org The theater continues to present National Geographic Live lectures via livestream. Recent events have included a look at dinosaurs with world-renowned paleontologists and an exploration of deep-sea life with biologists. Laguna Art Museum lagunaartmuseum.org Together with Laguna Beach Live!, the museum continues to host livestreamed concerts in its galleries. Recent concerts have featured the Triada Guitar Trio and soprano Christina Linhardt accompanied on keyboard by Joshua Chandra. Recordings of past shows are at lagunabeachlive.squarespace.com. MO RE O NLINE !

orangecoast.com/events

Laguna Playhouse lagunaplayhouse.com The playhouse announces new video-ondemand presentations of plays and musicals each month. Past offerings have included “The Outsiders,” and “The Gin Game” with Joe Spano and JoBeth Williams. Musco Center for the Arts muscocenter.org Archived recordings of the performing arts center’s livestreamed conversations with performers, playwrights, choreographers, and scholars of the arts are available on the center’s website. The spring season included performances and Q&As with roots musician Amythyst Kiah and classical chamber orchestra Sphinx Virtuosi. Pacific Chorale pacificchorale.org The chorale recently added two features to its website. One spotlights Black composers and arrangers, with short bios and links to their music online. The other, “Ask the Maestro,” features a series of short Q&A videos with the chorale’s artistic director, Robert Istad. Pacific Symphony pacificsymphony.org The symphony began hosting virtual events with local cultural organizations in February,

including a Lunar New Year Festival and a Lantern Festival. It’s also continuing to post recordings from the vault; in March, it made the orchestra’s entire performance of Beethoven’s “Eroica” free to view. In addition, concertmaster Dennis Kim and first flute Ben Smolen continue to host weekly “Symphony Mixers,” extended online chats with musicians, composers, music directors, and other classical music industry insiders. Soka Performing Arts Center soka.edu The center began hosting a series of virtual concerts this spring and also began offering video recordings of full performances that took place in the concert hall, including a 2018 solo piano concert from Emmanuel Ax. Other video series on the center’s website feature interviews and behind-the-scenes footage from jazz greats and Q&As with musicians and others in the music industry. South Coast Repertory scr.org The theater recently released a new episode of #Commissioned with SCR’s artistic director, David Ivers, interviewing playwright José Cruz González, who led the theater’s Hispanic Playwrights Project; has directed SCR plays, including “La Posada Mágica”; and received the theater’s first commission of 2021.

April 2021 • ORANGE COAST 29

ORANGE COAST

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April 2021 • ORANGE COAST 31

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READERS SHARE THEIR FAVORITE TAKEOUT PLACES. PAGE 85

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DINING AT HOME Elevate your takeout experience with these patterned pieces. by Chelsea Raineri

Be Home mother-of-pearl mosaic cocktail shaker, $70, Nordstrom, South Coast Plaza, 714-549-8300

Custom-order appetizer plate, from $48, Rex Design, Costa Mesa

32 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

Chilewich Tango place mats, $80, Design Within Reach, SOCO, 714-427-0628

Enamel bowl, $25, Hay Design, SOCO, 714-462-4055

Tie-dye napkin, $12.95, CB2, South Coast Plaza, 949-308-7100

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LEMDEENA HOME

This Mission Viejo boutique features handmade home decor from North Africa. by Chelsea Raineri

aguna Niguel resident Mondher El Ouaer wanted to support the Berber artisans of his home country of Tunisia who craft handmade products. In December 2019, he opened Lemdeena Home, a home decor boutique at The Shops at Mission Viejo. “The whole purpose of (my store) is to show the American people what Tunisian (artisans) can create,” El Ouaer says.

How did you start Lemdeena Home? ¼ I had a pop-up at Pacific City in Huntington Beach in 2018 for about nine months. I got the opportunity at the Mission Viejo mall, and we opened in 2019. I found out it would be easier for me because it’s a bigger place and you have the right potential clients from Newport Beach, Laguna, San Clemente—it’s a great position. Lemdeena means “the city” in Tunisian. When we say “Let’s go to lemdeena,” it means where everything is happening—all the good food, all the good design; we go and we hang out there. That’s where you see all the tourists shopping and getting gifts. Can you share a little about Tunisia? ¼ Tunisia is really a great place to go visit. It’s a small country; we’re all the way at the top of North Africa, miles away from Italy. It’s a very safe place to visit, it’s not too expensive, and there are amazing designers and architects there. My goal is to stay in business by just supporting the artisans and handcrafted (pieces). How did you find the artists for your store? ¼ Because I’m from Tunisia, it was easy for me to find the right location without contacting anybody else. There’s a Berber village in Tunisia where they make handmade pottery, so I started selling their pottery, and then I (expanded to) hanging pendants, which are made from palm leaves. For the pottery, I have a family of around 15 women, and then for the pendants, I have almost the whole village, so about four or five

34 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

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What types of products do you sell? Everything in my store is hand¼ made, everything. I’m focusing a lot on and really promoting the handcrafted pieces from Tunisia because people don’t know about Tunisia—they only know about Morocco, but we’re all the same Berber community. I started with towels, textiles, and Turkish towels. I sell items with a Tunisian, Moroccan, and North African look—so like the minimalist, Mediterranean, boho style. What types of items can be customdesigned? We can custom-make pendants ¼ ($300 to $3,000) any size—I just made a 7-foot-long pendant for a client. My mom works overseas there; I give her the order, and she goes over to the island in Tunisia (where the pendants are made). We do custom rugs ($1,000 to $4,000), and we custom-make live-edge dining tables and coffee tables ($2,500 to $8,000) in redwood, walnut, and maple. lemdena.com April 2021 • ORANGE COAST 35

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Vinny Rico of Irvine is the co-founder of VV Fit Studio, which hosts online classes including yoga ﬂow as well as barre and sculpt. He shares how to ﬁnd Zen in the backyard.

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a yoga instructor

FINDING BREATH …

Vinyasa flow yoga is based on breath to movement, and we teach those classes primarily in the evening for people to decompress before dinner with their families. This type of yoga (involves) a lot of strong postures and balancing. You’re going to be moving a lot, so there’s a cardio aspect, and also there’s a meditative aspect to it.

36 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

TAKE IT OUTSIDE …

What I really like about doing yoga outside is you get to be with nature and away from technology. It’s a unique experience—being able to do yoga near trees, see the sky, and get some fresh air. We really don’t get that with working out in a studio. YOGA BREAK …

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equipment. I would say there’s no right or wrong time to do yoga; it’s just what time benefits you the most. If you’re stressed and need time during your lunch break, close your eyes, take deep breaths and count them—even for a quick five minutes. Take time to just stand and stretch; people think they need to do a specific posture, but honestly yoga is about doing what feels good in the body.

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STYLE SOCIETY

The popular Costa Mesa boutique moved to a new storefront in September. by Chelsea Raineri

n 2016, Shelli Melkonian opened Style Society, a boutique featuring fashionable clothing and accessories, which shared space with a salon. When the pandemic forced the boutique to close, Melkonian decided to relocate to a larger space down the street from her original location. “Toward the end of me being there, I was in 150 square feet,” Melkonian says. “We have to only have 25 percent capacity, which in that small space would’ve been one person at a time. Here, I can kind of roll with the punches a little bit more.” With help from a friend in interior design, Melkonian transformed the empty space into a bright, welcoming shop where customers of all ages can still find an assortment of basic T-shirts as well as floral dresses, handbags, candles, and more. “I’ve always wanted this to be a place where a mother-daughter combo could come in and both find something,” Melkonian says. “On Saturday, my last customer was an 80-year-old woman. I don’t want people to feel like (they’re) too old for this now; I want it to be where you can grow with the store.” Customers can also shop items from O.C.-based brands such as May Martin, Never Alone Candles, Rope the Moon, and I-SEA sunglasses. Check for in-store workshops once gathering restrictions are lifted.

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Q Tell us what's new and exciting at Pirch. A There is so much new and exciting it may be hard to stop me! We have changed out many of our displays in the past year at all our showrooms to feature the newest products from our existing brands, and to introduce many new brands. Plus, we opened a new showroom in Solana Beach in December, and we are very excited to be there in the Cedros Design District where so many of our trade customers are. Our goal in all five showrooms is to change 25 percent of our displays each year, so we can present the latest models and styles. We are also opening a sixth showroom this summer in Mission Viejo, which is probably the most new and exciting thing of all.

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A Due to the impact of COVID-19, we saw customers reevaluate their homes in many ways. Initially customers recognized their appliances – particularly dishwasher and laundry – were not adequate because so much more pressure was now being applied to them. Also, with less opportunity to go out to dinner (or go out for anything), people turned their attention to making their homes more enjoyable. They upgraded cooking appliances, added beverage centers, and expanded the kitchen outdoors. Creating an outdoor kitchen and entertaining area was huge, and still is. Thankfully, here in Southern California, the weather allows us to live outdoors almost all year round. An outdoor entertainment center expands the living space, plus provides a safer environment to have people over.

Q Why is the showroom experience at Pirch so unique? A PIRCH offers a carefully curated array of premium appliances, plumbing fixtures, hardware, and grills, for kitchen, bath and outdoor. Our showrooms provide an inspirational atmosphere where products are displayed in lifestyle vignettes that allow you to not just see but experience them. We have working displays – even live kitchens where we do cooking demos to show customers how to use the ranges, ovens, and grills. We are one of the only places where you can see all the most soughtafter brands across all categories in one place. Most importantly, our sales consultants are deeply experienced and knowledgeable. They can truly help you realize the dream kitchen, bath, or outdoor space you’re trying to achieve. 42 Ora nge C o a st • April 2021

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Westminster Teak

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California Closets

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JC Squared Design & Build

Illuminating Waterfalls and Fire Pits Celebrate better times with the custom remodel of your dreams. JC Squared Inc. provides well-designed and built outdoor living spaces with the latest trending amenities like waterfalls and fire pits to create your ultimate back yard. 949.408.1474 YourUltimateBackyard.com

Builders Surplus Kitchen & Bath Cabinets

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VERGOLA

The VERGOLA® opening and closing roof system gives you control over your environment. With smart rain sensor technology and double skin aerofoil louvers for better insulation, the VERGOLA® lets you relax or entertain outdoors, rain or shine. 855.949.8374 vergola.com

BoConcept

CONTEMPORARY DANISH FURNITURE BRAND BOCONCEPT is launching new furniture forms including the Modena sofa and other organically-shaped designs by IF Design Award juror Morten Georgsen. Georgsen is a Danish furniture designer based in Valencia, Spain. The awardwinning designer is BoConcept’s longest-running design partner, penning bestsellers for the brand since 1993. His portfolio includes the iconic Milano table, the evercool Como, Copenhagen and Bordeaux storage collections and the London bench. 657.267.0100 boconcept.com

50 Ora nge C o a st • April 2021

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Gaetano Hardwood Floors, Inc.

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The Folding Door

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Superior Tree Cares

sheltering shade Mature trees add greatly to the beauty of your property, giving it solid character and quiet charm. When it comes to the health and beauty of your trees, call on a company you can trust. 714.502.0226 superiortreecare.net

Next Level Home Staging & Design

Are you selling your home? Professional home staging and great listing photos are the keys to better offers and a faster sale. For all your staging, design or sourcing needs, call us to take your project to the next level. 949.391.2600 nextlevelstaging.com

B&C Custom Hardware and Bath

Toto’s Neorest NX2 toilet incorporates a bacterianeutralizing ultraviolet light and a titanium dioxide-fired toilet bowl, This extraordinary technology initiates a photocatalytic process that breaks down even microscopic waste particles. TOTO has developed the world’s first zero-gravity bathtub in which bathers experience total weightlessness. Zero Dimension is an extraordinarily calming, tension-free bathing experience, Zero Dimension tub retail $19,269. Neorest NX2 toilet retail $13,000 949.859.6073 customhardware.net

54 Ora nge C o a st • April 2021

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Image Courtesy of Room and Board

SPON SORED C O N TEN T

TRENDS

PIRCH

Mixed metal finishes are an emerging design trend in all types of products, from this classy brass and matte black Waterstone Wheel kitchen faucet to cabinet and door hardware. In our showrooms you will discover many inspirational examples of how to mix things up in your kitchen and bath. Make an appointment at any showroom and our expert sales consultants can show you all the choices available to make your own personal mark with mixed metal finishes. Costa Mesa – 949.429.0800 Glendale – 818.743.9999 San Diego – 858.966.3600 Rancho Mirage – 760.646.8220 Solana Beach – 858-966-3655 Pirch.com

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714-502-0226 56 O ra nge C o a st • April 2021

There’s no place like home.

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Better times are on the horizon. Discover the possibilities that can be achieved in creating your ultimate backyard. At JC Squared, we pride ourselves in doing high-quality backyard new construction and remodeling. Our customers trust us and know we will deliver on what has been promised. As experienced building professionals, we deliver on time and within budget. JC Squared can build you an incredible outdoor living space where you can make a lifetime of wonderful memories. Now that we spend most of our free time at home, it’s important for it to be a place of inspiration and comfort. Rejuvenate your living space. Give us a call today for a free consultation. After all, there’s no place like your home.

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Who is the cutest pet IN ORANGE COUNTY? WE NEED YOUR HELP!

PRESENTED BY

BENEFITTING

Cast your vote at PetFestOC.com now - April 15, 2021. The cutest pet in O.C. will win a photo shoot and a feature in the July issue of Orange Coast magazine!

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FOOD

DRINK COCKTAIL of the year

SMOK Y PA L OM A RO S A ¼THE DRINK Nosotros mezcal, Campari, grapefruit, and sparkling brut rosé ¼THE DETAILS The cocktail is garnished with a charred grapefruit wedge and hoja santa, the prized Aztec herb, also called pepperleaf, that has notes of anise and tastes similar to root beer. ¼THE PRICE $14 ¼THE PL ACE Chaak ¼TURN T0 PAGE 68 for the rest of our Best Restaurants picks. photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

April 2021 • ORANGE COAST 59

FOOD

DRINK

2 3 1 4

DISH of the year T H E

B R E A K D O W N

TORO TARTARE

The dish at Nova Kitchen & Bar features grade 1 bluefin tuna flown in from Spain. by Gretchen Kurz Sushi chef Kenji Haruki has the knife skills and knowledge to optimize the exceptional fish.

Caviar supplies a mindblowing texture of silken orbs that burst under slight pressure, contrasting with the firmer toro.

Glossy black roe from Siberian sturgeon (Acipenser baerii) is prized for its mild, buttery flavors and distinct glossy black beads.

Dashi soy adds an ethereal veil of umami.

$40, 12361 Chapman Ave., Garden Grove, 714-696-0888 See the rest of our BEST RESTAURANTS on Page 68. 60 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

DRINK 5

Q U E S T I O N S

W I T H …

ADAM GO

The Huntington Beach resident is the co-owner of Barrio, a Filipino-Korean barbecue eatery at SteelCraft Garden Grove. by Michelle Pagaran WHAT ARE YOUR STAR ITEMS? Our pork and chicken barbecue skewers. I grew up eating this stuff in the Philippines, and they’re a staple at any birthday party, even weddings. Also, our beef bulgogi. WHY ADD KOREAN FOOD? For us, it’s a natural fusion. I’m Filipino, and my wife is Korean. The food is similar. There are a lot of marinated meats and things on the grill served with rice, salad, and pickles. WHAT’S BEEN A SURPRISE IN THE PAST YEAR? The amount of catering and delivery that we do. (With our barbecue kits), you can have us grill the meat or you can grill it at home. We also deliver within a 3-mile radius from Steelcraft or to any address in Huntington Beach. WHAT DOES BARRIO MEAN? Neighborhood, community, and a place to come together. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO POST-PANDEMIC? As an outdoor food hall, SteelCraft has never had a normal spring and summer. People really haven’t seen what we’re about. I look forward to trivia nights being back, the bands, and the cornhole. The sense of community.

S A L S A N E G R A P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F TA C O M A R I A

FOOD

TA C O M A R Í A’ S

MADE IN ORANGE COUNTY

Costa Mesa

signature salsa negra (driedchile-in-oil salsa) has been an integral part of the Michelin-star restaurant’s dishes— served alongside tacos at lunch and used as a finish on prix fixe items. After the restaurant first closed its dining room last spring, the salsa negra was produced on a larger scale and is now available nationwide. $16 to $48 at tacomaria.com/shop

62 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

open for businessOC Do what you can to shop local ﬁrst. Every dollar you spend locally will help open doors of local businesses and support jobs in our community.

Share how you are safely open for business using the hashtag #OpenForBusinessOC and tag @orangecoastmag for your chance to be reposted.

Shop safely. Follow our local health guidelines and respect others around you.

DRINK F O O D

T R E N D S

HEY LIT TLE DUMPLINGS! Frozen-dumpling delivery becomes a foodie mainstay. by Benjamin Epstein

Newlyweds Candace and Allan Tea— Allan’s family runs dim sum chain Capital Seafood, and he’s managing partner at Hello Kitty Cafe—initially created CALI DUMPLING DELIVERY to benefit hospitality workers impacted by the pandemic. Now bags of 30 hand-folded dumplings for steaming, boiling, or frying come in a dozen varieties, notably pork xiao long bao, fish dumplings, and silky egg-wrapped pork-and-shrimp wontons. Order the day before for delivery to North County on Tuesdays, and South County on Thursdays; the $10 fee goes directly to drivers. CALIDUMPLINGDELIVERY.COM

64 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

Growing up, Charlene Tan would help her mother make dumplings for family parties. “I thought it was so cool that such a tiny food could pack so much flavor and be a work of art,” Tan says. The graphic designer now makes her own meticulous works of art in Aliso Viejo; top sellers among a half-dozen rotating choices at TAN’S DUMPLINGS are the disarming pink vegan miso cauliflower and flavor bomb pork gochujang. $3 for delivery. INQUIRIES AND ORDERS VIA @TANSDUMPLINGS ON INSTAGRAM

YUMMI DUMPLINGS offers 20 kinds

of handcrafted dumplings, “guaranteed yummi.” Tasty options include crab-andpork xiao long bao in regular and juicier, thin-wrapped versions; three types of shrimp-and-pork Hong Kong wontons, one featuring cut shrimp and masago; and soup-filled, pork-stuffed shaomai with a sweet little shrimp plugging the top of each tiny purse. You can also order two-layer bamboo steamers in two sizes. Daily pickup in Irvine or delivery throughout Southern California—$5 to $10 in Orange County—with 24-hour notice. YUMMIDUMPLINGS.COM

P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F TA N ’ S D U M P L I N G S

FOOD

Tune in or Stream

April 5 at 8pm Available on the

MY O.C.

In Search of Perfection Looking for Shangri-La and a delicious corned beef sandwich from years gone by. by Terry Black

have a confession: I’m obsessed. But with what is hard to explain. Years ago, I was on one of my epic bike rides in Orange County when I made a random turn, somewhere I wouldn’t normally go, just to see what was down there. I found myself on a circular street, at the bottom of a hill, with a cluster of picture-perfect homes under a canopy of trees that seemed to stretch a mile high, a scene of rustic splendor that might

have been lifted from my home state of Pennsylvania. I thought, “I’ve got to come here again.” That was long ago. Today, I have no idea where that place is. If you’re at all obsessive, like me, you can see how that could morph into infatuation. I remember being there, but not going there; savoring the view, but not how to see it again. Now I’m determined to ﬁnd those beautiful homes, on that circular street, under a soaring canopy of trees. Weirdly, the pandemic has made this easier. I used to ride my bike to work each day, half an hour in the morning and again in the evening. Most days, I didn’t have the time or energy for recreational riding. But I’m working from home now, and my lunch hour can be a 60-minute bike ride anywhere I choose—honoring social guidelines.

I’V E B E G U N A S Y S T E M AT I C search, going everywhere I remember going, making odd turns and discovering what lies there. I’ve made some delightful discoveries along the way. Florence Joyner Olympiad Park. Jeronimo Open Space. The hills over Lake Mission Viejo. The Oso Creek Trail. South County is a mecca for cyclists, honeycombed with paths, trails, and sly, secret passages. But there’s no sign of that circular street. I expand the search, taking advantage of weekends and holidays for more ambitious ventures. I used to live in Irvine, and before that in Costa Mesa. Maybe the street was in an old neighborhood or old-neighborhood66 ORANGE COAST • April 2021

illustration by P E T E R YA N

MY O.C.

MAYBE DREAMS WE CAN’T ACHIEVE ARE PART OF WHO WE ARE ... Then a strange thing happens. I’m doing a close-to-home ride, just for fun. I’m on Serrano headed home, at the tail end of the day’s travels. South of Serrano is a neighborhood surrounded by woods, homes plunked down in a sprawling forest, like the Shire from “The Lord of the Rings.” It’s an obvious place for my tree-lined street, but it can’t be there because it’s too close, too obvious. Plus, I’ve already searched it thoroughly—haven’t I?

ON IMPULSE, I TURN DOWN one particular street, following its curve, making a turn that seems unexpected but making it anyway, going on instinct. I round the bend, coasting downhill, and before my eyes … A circular street. A row of beautiful homes. A canopy of trees that seems to stretch a mile high. The street is called Sleepy Hollow Terrace, which doesn’t sound familiar except for that story by Washington Irving, which might

be why I overlooked it. I thought it sounded familiar for literary reasons, not personal ones. Now I’m looking at that street, sublime and secluded, a street that matches all my criteria and is glorious to behold. But here’s the thing: It’s not the right street. It doesn’t match the feeling, the memory, that intangible sense of “Oh my God!” that should accompany the end of my search. There’s no thrill of discovery, no sense of completion. Close, but no cigar. Unless … I’m reminded of a story about my dad. He knew a guy in Pittsburgh who was always talking about the corned beef sandwiches from a deli on 42nd Street in New York City. They were the best sandwiches ever; nothing else came close. As luck would have it, Dad went to New York on a business trip, and he looked up that 42nd Street deli. He got a corned beef sandwich, packed it in ice, and brought it back and gave it to the guy. His response? “This is pretty good. But it’s not like that deli on 42nd Street; nothing else even comes close.” Here’s my question: Am I doing the same thing? Has that tree-lined street become a hopeless ideal, an image so perfect that no street can match it? Have I failed to recognize the actual street, because nothing could equal what it has become in my imagination? Maybe it’s like Shangri-La, a land we can dream about but never quite ﬁnd. Maybe dreams we can’t achieve are part of who we are, what drives us to push our limits, to strive for goals beyond our reach. Maybe I’ll never ﬁnd that street because I’ve already found it and didn’t even recognize it. Maybe it can’t be recognized. And maybe it doesn’t matter. I’m still out there searching, plotting future adventures with my Thomas Guide, with all of Orange County to investigate. I like to call it a healthy obsession. How about a trip to Laguna Beach? There’s a place there that has great corned beef sandwiches.

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adjacent? I jump on my bike and revisit my old haunts in Irvine, making a wide, looping curve, taking a shortcut back on the San Diego Creek Trail, following a watercourse that cuts through town. I follow Shady Canyon Drive south from the 405, where cars are blocked by a guard gate, but cyclists can ride right through on a descending trail that goes all the way to Turtle Rock, full of searchable tree-lined hills. I power up San Joaquin Hills Road, with a panoramic view of wilderness and ocean. Still, my quest is unfulﬁlled. I’m squinting at my Thomas Guide (yes, I still use one), looking for streets that sound familiar, places I might have traveled in years past, odd turns and curving roads in nice but forgotten locations. I despair of ever ﬁnding it.

April 2021 • ORANGE COAST 67

BEST RESTAURANTS A mindful look at our dining landscape reveals changes that were unfathomable a year ago. So much has been lost and gained, invented and deferred. It’s a lot to digest, so we’re breaking down the metamorphosis in servings of ﬁve. Among the many lessons, we’ll never lose sight of this truth: Restaurants are essential. by GRETCHEN KURZ photography by EMILY J. DAVIS

68 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

See Glasspar page 73

April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 69

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

RESTAURANT of the year

PORCH & SWING

ast April, when Porch & Swing launched, feels much longer than 12 months ago. Executive chef Justin Werner and bar boss Andrew Parish were this close to welcoming diners, but then had to deliver their “Taste of Charleston” in a different way than they planned. Their inaugural menu was so heady, we had no choice but to follow this enchanting newcomer anywhere things went. Parish’s discerning cocktails lean hard into bourbon and whiskey libations like good Southerners do. A veteran of boldface kitchens such as Thomas

Keller’s Per Se and Michelin darling Noma in Copenhagen, Werner did time most locally and recently at Playground. He applies rigorous technique to classic regional dishes chosen for their, as he puts it, “America-ness.” Scratch breads dazzle, and imaginative salads like the Ride or Die are impressively sourced. This shop has a way with weaving highvolume ﬂavors with elite ingredients. The menu rotates alluring protein mains and super-seasonal vegetables. Hyper-tender Sakura pork jowl atop divine grits is moan-inducing. Sweet tubby scallops with preserved lemon

are blissful. Hand-crimped beef tortellini are a stunning detour from the Carolinas—as delicious as you’ll ﬁnd at any Italian place, at any price. Desserts are a select few of in-house productions, ﬂeeting but worth stalking. Lonely office towers above bless these sprawling patio digs with ever more space—for easy parking, for distanced tables, and even live music. It’s so heartening to watch Porch & Swing notch incremental wins amid months of loss. If this is the next normal, we’ll take it. 2010 Main St., Irvine, 949-418-7988 April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 71

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

MAYFIELD

ayfield stands out in a batch of newborn restaurants that will never know life pre-pandemic. It’s hard to imagine this serene, split-level venue full. Transplanted Londoner George Barker can picture it, though. He has nursed that vision for five years. Mayfield’s is a singular concept—local California cuisine with the timeless flavors of the Mediterranean, Middle East, and North Africa. Chef Jayro Martinez, welltraveled but most recently of Social and Ahba, is a gifted interpreter of Barker’s vision. Enchanting flavors meander through dishes such as Hasselback celery root, beet burrata salad with honey walnut pesto, and osso buco unlike any other. A compelling cocktail program is a strength, too. Mayfield’s worldly aura and category-busting cuisine is already a high point of 2021.

31761 Camino Capistrano, San Juan Capistrano, 949-218-5140 72 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

GLASSPAR

hen spiff y seafooder Glasspar debuted in late 2019, chef-owner Rob Wilson had no idea he would soon be running a deluxe ﬁsh market. Clobbered by lockdown, he stopped cooking and started selling his high-end vendors’ deluxe goods and fresh local seafood direct to his new clientele. After a year of pushpull health directives, Glasspar is seating diners again. Wilson says he “opened a restaurant three times in one year,” gamely downplaying the massive investment made to upgrade permanent patios that seat 105. Fans sorely miss the oyster bar’s bonhomie, but Wilson’s secret-recipe Oysters Rockefeller has a way of ﬁnding a high-top for two with a view. That ad hoc market? It’s now online, and order pickup continues Wednesday through Sunday.

24961 Dana Point Harbor Drive, Dana Point, 949-240-6243 April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 73

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

SHOREBIRD

horebird’s Balboa Peninsula arrival in June was so stealthy, it was almost a surprise. Hiding within the new marina enclave of Vue Newport, the dazzling split-level venue merges outdoors and indoors for a massive living picture of pricey boats in their sparkling slips. Brought to life by Wild Thyme Restaurant Group, Shorebird hums with cheer, even partially full. Its broad menu of modern American fare, solidly implemented by executive chef Jay Bogsinske’s scratch kitchen, ensures instant chemistry with locals. For dinner, impeccably shucked oysters open for a massive pork chop grilled over almond wood or the elegant pan-roasted black cod. Weekend brunch boasts sweet or savory recipes not served after dark— say, pulled rotisserie chicken chilaquiles or trendy soufflé pancakes. 2220 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach, 949-287-6627

74 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

SAPPHIRE

ad timing muted its rollout last spring, but even with pandemic protocols, Sapphire sparkles anew. It’s the fourth production by Russ Bendel Jr. and the veteran team behind Vine, Ironwood, and Olea. The iconic terraced patio on Coast Highway is packed for weekend brunch. Executive chef Jared Cook concocts terriﬁc sweet and savory dishes such as griddle-hot waffles beneath fresh berries and lemony crème fraîche. Or roasted Kurobuta pork belly Benedict with vegetable hash. Lavish diner eats include house-made duck meatballs or wild Alaskan halibut with fava beans. When only steak will do, the 24-ounce bone-in ribeye with smoked blue cheese mashers is a reliable hero. When allowed, you’ll ﬁnd an intimate room and bar with a superb face-lift, though the spiffed-up pantry next door is already open for morning coffees and beachy grab-and-go chow. 1200 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, 949-715-9888 April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 75

LOOKING FORWARD TO

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARIAH TAUGER

76 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

POINT 11 GRILL PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF POINT 11 GRILL

WE CAN’T WAIT TO RETURN TO 5 FAVES

TRENDS TO WATCH

CHICKEN SHOPS

Getting back to restaurants the way they’re meant to be experienced will be a huge relief, when that time comes. Five we’re looking forward to most:

This category didn’t exist two years ago, and now poultry stores are more numerous than poke spots.

LSXO: This is one of Huntington Beach’s hippest canteens, but its teensy dimensions mean long-term distanced dining is an absurd plan. Twenty-eight seats don’t go far when capacity is limited to 25 percent. Paradoxically, the intimate confines that bolster the sultry, exclusive vibe here are also what hold it at bay behind state orders. Chef-founder Tin Vuong’s hyper-vibrant Vietnamese cuisine is crucial to making LSXO a remarkable experience. His crepe with prawns and pork belly was born to play against a West Coast rap soundtrack and ceiling art of M60 machine guns firing pastel butterfly bullets. Add a classy bartender shaking au courant cocktails and understand why LSXO is short for Little Sister Extraordinary.

Jaxon’s: From-scratch tenders with 13 (!) dips. Try the Cajun sauce. Orange

OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE: North County’s prized surf-and-turf provider is dark and clubby with just enough retro cool. Lolling in a leather booth or schmoozing with a witty bartender didn’t used to be a no-no. It won’t always be this way, but the wait is fatiguing. Taking home cracked crab legs or a readyto- grill aged ribeye is nice, but it can’t compare to a server delivering your mountain of crustaceans on crushed ice or a hissing hot plate bearing an extravagant Delmonico, medium-rare. Even the basket of dreamy, warm bread will be a sight for hungry eyes. Owners Tony and Dani Fasulo maintain their gracious charm by phone, but we miss seeing them at our table.

Poultrygram: High-flying sandwiches on brioche plus big, fat crispy tenders. Irvine, Brea Spice C: Fiery halal chicken— you choose heat level—and do try the signature sauce. Tustin Point 11 Grill: Superb rotisserie chicken straight up or in fusion styles. Huntington Beach BBQ Chicken: Korean-style fried bird served any way imaginable. Tustin

April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 77

LOOKING FORWARD TO

NAPA ROSE: Remember the cozy Craftsman-style lounge where you could sip Champagne by the flickering fire? What about the chef’s counter, a front-row seat for the kitchen performance conducted by the engaging Andrew Sutton? The collective ache of missing frequent doses of Disney is a palpable thing. While kids yearn for rides and characters, there’s a sizable contingent of foodies who crave the fine upscale experience of being spoiled rotten in Napa Rose’s character-free dining room with a wine country aesthetic on the plate and in the setting. Here’s hoping we can order that fava bean hummus under diver scallop and grape-leaf-wrapped shrimp while favas are still in season. 78 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

TACO MARÍA: No one takes Carlos Delgado’s culinary brilliance for granted. He single-handedly elevates the O.C. dining scene. No other kitchen can duplicate his smoked sturgeon tacos, Kurobuta pork pozole verde, or pistachio alfajores. We’re so weary of seeing exquisite social media posts of the Sonoma duck carnitas ﬁve-course family meal, only to have it sell out again. Once we return to that intimate dining sanctuary, we’ll cherish multicourse meals direct from the open kitchen that oozes intensity. Laid-back lunch on the sunny patio? We’ll take it.

SIDEDOOR: Not being outdoors is a compelling reason to haunt the windowless little sister of Five Crowns. Overstuffed chairs angled to the ﬁreplace are the supreme place to hang when you’re not at work. Or home. Or working at home. Yes, the backyard is lovely, but it’s no pub. Vintage Beatles tracks, a proper Pimm’s Cup, and a Prime rib sandwich just taste better in chummy environs. Order a plate of artisan cheeses and gab with the expert carving your Stilton? Not gonna happen alfresco.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILLA IEZZI

D AY T I M E C A F E S

How can new places afford to open? Don’t serve booze or dinner!

POACHED KITCHEN PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF POACHED KITCHEN

Good Eats and Sweets: From cupcakes to smoothies to giant egg rolls, all stupendous. Cypress La Boulangerie San Francisco: Fetching brunch fare and splendid croissants with a French accent. Irvine Vicci Bakery: Standout crepes, sandwiches, and premium coffee served with sincere smiles. Balboa Island Poached Kitchen: Toptier Benedicts, waffles, and scrambles with a wait on weekends. Irvine Airoma: Mind-blowing matcha lattes and a must-try signature egg coffee. Garden Grove

April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 79

B E S T I N N OVAT I O N S

INNOVATIONS THAT WOW In a year when nonstop change was a challenge, these ﬁve players ﬁgured out great ways to keep diners safe and happy.

80 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

HERMOSA TAQUERIA PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF HERMOSA TAQUERIA

Fable & Spirit: When restaurants shut down last year, it felt like Lido’s rookie darling for drinks and dazzling eats might be in peril. Never bet against the Coyle family and their illustrious hospitality. Sidewalk seating expanded the petite patio westward to Lido Theater, and soon the iconic marquee sported executive chef David Shofner’s name, teasing a special meal staged below. Prix fixe meals started right after Labor Day and featured new themes each week— and all were sellouts. Later, wafting afternoon aromas from the pop-up grill lured the curious for sizzling burgers and yakitori to go. Give this team a challenge, and it will smother it with ingenuity. Harley: When chef-owner Greg Daniels says, “We aren’t the same restaurant,” he’s understating the adjustments made to his village corner grill. After months of mandates, Daniels landed on workable and winning strategies that have wholly replaced Harley’s a la carte menu with three courses of luscious comfort fare: say citrus salad, lasagna Bolognese, and olive oil cake. Fans find irresistible meals that change weekly. Daniels’ limitedtime offers of kitchen table classics—tamales, pot pies, carnitas—sell out reliably and keep Harley’s secret weapon, sous chef Jose Hernandez, more than busy. Once posted on Instagram, tantalizing buttermilk biscuits and Grandma Mary’s chocolate chip cookies fly out by the half or full dozen.

JUST OPEN

These newbies are deﬁning the new normal. Pastars: A handful of fresh artisan pastas and one sublime porchetta sandwich. Westminster Hermosa Taqueria: Classic tacos in a food hall setting; don’t miss the duck pupusa. Tustin Rodeo 39: Postmodern marketplace with enticing new food players. Stanton Miirch Social: Third-wave Indian eatables—think butter chicken paneer poutine. Fullerton Sauced: Legit barbecue, crafts on tap, booze in jars, plus amazing brisket and sides galore. Orange

April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 81

B E S T I N N OVAT I O N S

Summit House: Fullerton’s favorite hilltop venue for weddings and swanky prime rib dinners lost immeasurable income as large gatherings became taboo. To accommodate diners they could serve on-site, they turned themselves inside out, scattering tables all over the scenic 2.5-acre knoll. Even the popular tavern sprouted an outdoor adaptation, shaking up cocktails at the picturesque gazebo under mature sycamore and pepper trees. After decades of special events, the crew could quickly stage distanced seating with views in three directions. Only the parking lot wasn’t enlisted for dining, but it did supply seamless access to curbside pickups for those weeks when on-premise service was prohibited. Only because of a pandemic did this 30-year-old restaurant offer its elegant fare to go. Expect that skill set to live on.

82 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

Tavern House: Takeout food is always a compromise. Nothing tastes as satisfying as it does at the restaurant, served at your table by waitstaff. Takeout fumbles were particularly common last spring, when an order could easily end up a lukewarm jumbled mess in a leaky container. Chef-founder David Wilhelm was not about to let Tavern House be that restaurant. After menu edits, pricey packaging test runs, and a search for frictionless online ordering, Tavern House can assure diners that the beef stroganoff won’t be soggy, and it will include extra sauce on the side to use at home—all packed in a bag that will not fail under a heavy load.

Marché Moderne: Florent and Amelia Marneau didn’t flinch when our lives were upended last year— they immediately segued to curbside service to buoy their team and nourish their customers. In those edgy early months, they doubled down with positive words and a visible commitment to keeping the bar high. With their signature quiet calm and unlimited know-how, they found ways to play by the rules while breaking new ground. Market boxes of luxury groceries kept supply lines open and customers happy. Mother’s Day brunch kits included flowers arranged by Amelia. Summer brought opulent, ready-to-tote pique-nique lunches. Every holiday brought a yet-more-extravagant take-home feast. And throughout, a prix fixe meal-of-the-week that sells out to this day.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SUMMIT HOUSE AND TAVERN HOUSE; MARCHÉ MODERNE PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFFREY S. ROVNER

I N S TA G R E AT S

These local Instagrammers only get better at making us look closer. @Focacciaboi Cheesy breads, delivered @Knifepleat Très chic plating @Bellobysandro O.C. food and Italian street art @AmericanGrub Burgers as eye candy @KarloEvaristo Super-sexy sourdough

April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 83

R ESTAU R A NTS W E W ILL M ISS

WE’LL MISS MOST Too many restaurants we adore fell victim to the pandemic. Here are ﬁve of our favorites.

JULIET TE Instantly popular for business lunching and date nights, this Bristol Avenue bistro with stylish fare also brought social hours of ace cocktails and wine tastings at its boutique.

PROVENANCE Chef-owner Cathy Pavlos’ dream kitchen and ﬂourishing cook’s garden leaves us wistful for ingredients so local we watched our salad greens being snipped before our very eyes. Gone too soon.

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PUEBLO Part of the ﬁrst wave of culinary trailblazers to settle at SOCO, this tiny joint served bold interpretations of modern Spanish tapas and rustic wines—ultimately getting our nod for Best New Restaurant in 2015.

ROYAL THAI For nearly four decades, Newport Beach’s pioneering Thai restaurant by the storied Tilakamonkul family taught us how to crave forbidden rice and lemongrass. We’ll miss petting that 1-ton teak elephant.

THE CAT & CUSTARD CUP La Habra’s landmark yellow tavern, “The Cat” is remembered for 39 years of special occasions lifted by enchanting service, intimate digs, and sterling Continental fare by chef-owner Creed Salisbury and later, son Caleb.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILLA IEZZI

INSTAGRAM TAKEOUT FAVORITES

RE A DERS W EIGH IN

Where are your go-to places for to-go food? Our Instagram followers weren’t shy with opinions! @saucy.smidge Noodles & Company in Orange. Kind of fusion and low carb noodle options! Love the pad thai and mac n cheese @jimmboo The ranch in Anaheim @mudhenclayandart I like Rutabegorz in Old Town Tustin. They have a really yummy and big enough to share strawberry chicken salad. Yum!

@fdt_vision @eatchow @paulagatesre @bybloscafe.orange mahi mahi kabobs and oh everything else @payalk @i20ramen, @royalkhyber, @hosumbistro @smashburger @brusselsbistro @marchemoderne @bokaosavedapasadena @royalhawaiianlb

@lagunasound Best Takeout: @royalhawaiianlb @romeocucinalagunabeach @harleylagunabeach

@bokaosavedapasadena @harleylagunabeach

@barksoﬂove @parisinacup

@aanchu25 Love @currykitchenmv

@cabotandmain Love this post! I see some places I haven’t tried that I will definitely be checking out. A few of my favorites: @ohmysushi_laguna_niguel @ironwoodlagunahills @coastalkitchendanapoint @heritagebarbecue

@kenkadz @fivevineswinebar @cosmositaliankitchen

@bobabitchess So many great spots! @yeemyyummy, @nep.cafe, @thevoxkitchen, @ajrestaurant, @gindacosagami and @chanchan_irvine are all yummy @theblondecaviar MY ALL TIME FAVORITES @romeocucinalagunabeach @royalhawaiianlb @harleylagunabeach @scorpio_renu @theyellowchillitustin @currykitchenmv @rachel_wilford @basanti_ sanjuancapistrano the best Indian food in OC!

@ltx_ltz @thecrabbite @seangarlic

@sarv_raj_singh @currykitchenmv The best!!! @sonjahammad @pitapitacafe for savory and @myearthbowl for sweet. @msmerrymerry These are my top takeout: @romeocucinalagunabeach @harleylagunabeach @royalhawaiianlb @anotherkindcafe @nicolegreyy You’re right @msmerrymerry Best takeout: @romeocucinalagunabeach @harleylagunabeach @royalhawaiianlb

@ebonymargueta @terramiapizzeria @baonbaguette @bajafishtacos @tammyseewinlin #yusgarden (Chinese home cooking), @ramensantoukausmawa (ramen) @sharinoribychefhan (pristine sushi), @betesebrestaurant / #tanaethiopian (great Ethiopian), @halves_restaurant (fresh shabu shabu) @sahil_gandhi23 @currykitchenmv is the best! @jackiesnaps @oldvinekitchenbar and @brugrill @jayray500 Urth Cafe, Orange @laura_pix Benchmark in Santa Ana @sighty1 Greenleaf Chop Shop! @alexiskallass @currykitchenmv is the best @paniagua_newport Amorelia Mexican Cafe in Costa Mesa @nicinmyyogapants @organic_tree ! @elise.bunch @currykitchenmv is delicious local Indian food!!! @ocyardgreetings @eatdrinkvibe @tomegrl7101 Ma’s dumpling house in Anaheim @loganapayne Slow Fish (sushi) in HB!

A GE OF T HE AMPERSAND

Porch & Swing isn’t the only one with a punctuation ﬁxation. Hook & Anchor Milk & Cookies Fable & Spirit Herb & Ranch Dot & Dough

April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 85

WHALE C I T Y, U. S . A .

86 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

From adversaries to advocates: Donna Kalez, left, and Gisele Anderson

Photograph by Matt Larmand

ell us briefly the history of your individual companies. Kalez: Dana Wharf Sportfishing & Whale Watching started in Dana Point Harbor in 1971. My father had a business called San Clemente Sport Fishing in the ’50s and ’60s, and when the harbor was built, he moved his fleet. He also started the Festival of Whales, which is the first and longest-running whale festival in the world. This is its 50th year. Anderson: Captain Dave’s started in Dana Point in 1995. Dave and I met because we had our own boats. We met on the dock, and we got married. How did you start working together? Anderson: Donna and I have known each other for a long time as competitors, and that can get rocky and unpleasant. But we got together one day and talked about how much we liked each other. Kalez: It was about three years ago

at a Visit Laguna Beach meeting, and we started to compare notes. We talked about how wonderful Dana Point is for dolphin and whale watching and the struggle of explaining that to the world. Anderson: I told her, “If I had just met you at a party, I would have spent the whole night talking to you!” And it’s not just that we have so much in common; we really respect each other. It made sense for us to come together. What was the original goal? Kalez: We wanted to trademark Dana Point as “The Dolphin & Whale Watching Capital of the World.” And we wanted to get the designation of being a Whale Heritage Site (from the World Cetacean Alliance). Anderson: We had no idea how difficult it could be getting the trademark until we got it (in 2019). Our lawyer was very surprised we were able to get it. April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 87

What are the boxes? Anderson: You have to have tremendous community support. A location that’s been involved in research. Public outreach and education. Advocacy. And we have something very special here. When Dave and I travel, we go to places with dolphins and whales— Alaska, Tahiti, the Mediterranean, New England, Hawaii. You can see whales, but only in a three-month period. Here, we see them year-round. Kalez: And we have a beautiful area where you can watch whales from land, too—the Headlands. Anderson: We see ﬁve species of whales and ﬁve species of dolphins. I’ve traveled to Auckland, New Zealand—they’re so into whale watching that the prime minister shows up when they launch a new catamaran. And the whales weren’t there at the time, but we went to see dolphins. I asked the captain and the crew, “So what’s your population like?” “Oh, we have a resident species of dolphin, and there’s as many as 200 of them.” For us, we have 450,000 dolphins, and we see pods as big as 10,000 at a time. I didn’t want to embarrass anybody, but I was thinking, what the hell? This is what the whole country gets excited 88 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2021

about? I asked them how many trips get canceled due to weather. He said a third! Sure enough, that day was windy and bumpy, and we never even found the dolphins. Why is Dana Point so great for whale watching? Anderson: So besides having all these species—I mean that’s true of us but also San Diego, Newport, Santa Barbara, Monterey—what makes Dana Point special are some other things. We have a small harbor, and it’s not a commercial harbor, so you don’t see these big tankers.

Catalina acts as a buffer, so we don’t have big waves rolling in. Right off our harbor, within a mile, there’s a huge dropoff. And that’s deep, cold, nutrient-rich water that attracts ﬁsh and all of these animals. We don’t have to go 3, 4 miles out. Kalez: All our trips are 2, 2½ hours. So that coupled with the best weather in the world, we really stand out. But we never dreamed we’d get the Whale Heritage Site designation so quickly. What’s next? Anderson: (The certiﬁcation) is

Whale photograph by Frank Brennan; Dolphin photograph by Dale Frink

The World Cetacean Alliance bills itself as the world’s largest partnership working to protect whales and dolphins. The only other places the group has named Whale Heritage Sites are in Australia, South Africa, and Spain. How hard was it to get the designation? Anderson: It was a very arduous process. More extensive than adopting a child probably. Kalez: I joined the WCA about 10 years ago. When they started the Whale Heritage Site program (two years ago), I told Gisele about it and she was like, “Let’s do it, why not?” Um, because it’s hard, Gisele! Anderson: I saw the criteria and I thought, this is us. We check all the boxes.

Photograph by Matt Larmand

not a one-and-done. We have to up our game and increase education, public involvement. We really are a poster child for the program. They loved the fact that millions of kids come through the Ocean Institute. They were really excited about our Festival of Whales. But this is an ongoing process. Kalez: Now the work starts. There’s follow-up and lots of things we want to do to continue to build on that certiﬁcation. When my dad started this, it was his dream that everyone would know that the California gray whale travels through here Novem-

ber through May. It makes me very proud that that’s something we’ve accomplished. That we now have the credibility of the world. Anderson: Our goal has been to let the world know what we have here, and to let the people of Orange County have true pride in this. Dave has said, “I want to do for the dolphins and whales of Orange County what John Muir did for Yosemite.” And Donna’s father is so proud. We’re standing on the shoulders of a lot of other people, too. We are blessed to be the faces of this, but it’s been half a century in the making.

Final thoughts? Kalez: It’s easy to take it for granted, but what we have in our own backyard is worth getting on a plane and traveling halfway around the world to see. And COVID-19 didn’t stop us. We’ve been so lucky to be able to continue doing tours safely. Anderson: Frankly, there’s nothing like getting on a boat and leaving the world behind. Dolphins and whales do not care about COVID-19 or politics. It’s freeing. And the best way to see these beautiful animals is in the wild, where they belong. April 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 89

THANK YOU,

ORANGE COUNTY

Orange Coast magazine supports our medical community, nonproﬁts, retail and hospitality professionals, grocery industry, teachers, and mail and delivery services. To all of our neighbors on the front lines, you are our heroes. WITH GRATITUDE

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2021 ATTORNEYS

OF DISTINCTION April 2021 • Or a nge Coa st 91

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

SPON SORED C ON TEN T

The Law Ofﬁces of

Callahan & Blaine

stablished in 1984, Callahan & Blaine consists of 28 experienced trial attorneys. The firm is led by firm founder Daniel J. Callahan, who is regarded as one of the country’s top trial lawyers. The National Law Journal named him one of the “Top 10 Attorneys” in the United States, and California Lawyer magazine designated him “California Lawyer of The Year.” Most recently, Callahan was named one of the “Top 10 Attorneys in Southern California” by Super Lawyers magazine.

California’s Premier Litigation Firm Callahan & Blaine has achieved recordbreaking verdicts and settlements across a diverse range of litigation issues. “We don’t have a narrow focus in any one area of the law,” notes Callahan. “Instead, our attorneys have expertise in a broad spectrum of complex litigation matters, including business litigation, insurance law, labor/employment defense and catastrophic personal injury. We are also equally adept at both plaintiff and defense perspectives.” Record Breaking Verdicts and Settlements Callahan & Blaine has a broad range

92 Ora nge C o a st • April 2021

of historic results. Most notable is Dan Callahan’s $934 Million jury verdict in a complex business litigation case, which is the largest jury verdict in the history of Orange County. In addition, Callahan & Blaine obtained a $50 Million settlement which is certified by West Trial Digest as one of the largest personal injury settlements in United States history. Callahan & Blaine also has the largest insurance bad faith judgment in Orange County history ($58 Million), and the largest employment settlement ($38 Million). Most recently, the firm settled a bicycle accident case for $17 Million.

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

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BUSINESS LITIGATION INSURANCE LAW LABOR/ EMPLOYMENT DEFENSE PERSONAL INJURY

A Specialty of Winning Each of Callahan & Blaine’s 28 senior attorneys is an experienced and accomplished litigator. Callahan & Blaine’s attorneys have expertise in a wide diversity of practice areas, including insurance law, intellectual property, trade secrets, employment law, catastrophic personal injury, real estate, business torts and corporate governance. For example, Edward Susolik, the partner in charge of the ﬁrm’s insurance department, has handled over 1000 insurance disputes on behalf of businesses and individuals over the last 28 years. As explained by Susolik, “The ﬁrm specializes in the one thing that matters most to clients: winning.”

Honors and Awards Callahan & Blaine’s attorneys have achieved many awards and honors over the years. For example, both Dan Callahan and

Ed Susolik have been named to the “Top 100 Attorneys in Southern California” list by Super Lawyers magazine from 2009 to 2019. Similarly, partners Michael Sachs and Brian McCormack have all achieved numerous judicial victories in recent years, and represent the next generation of Callahan & Blaine trial lawyers. For example, Brian McCormack was named Trial Lawyer of the Year by the Orange County Trial Lawyers Association in 2017

callahan-law.com 3 Hutton Centre Dr., Ste. 900 // Santa Ana, CA 92707 // 714-241-4444 • F. 714-241-4445

April 2021 • Or a nge Coa st 93

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

SPON SORED C ON TEN T

FAMILY LAW GENERAL CIVIL LITIGATION REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LITIGATION BUSINESS LITIGATION EMPLOYMENT LITIGATION SPORTS & ENTERTAINMENT LITIGATION ENVIRONMENTAL & HABITATIONAL LITIGATION

Bremer Whyte Brown & O’Meara, LLP Lawyers of Distinction

hen seeking legal representation, it is important to hire a multidimensional firm that can handle all aspects of your case. Over the course of 25 years Bremer Whyte Brown & O’Meara, LLP has established itself as an AV rated firm that provides a full range of transactional and litigation services, with over 187 lawyers in offices throughout California, Nevada, Arizona and Colorado. From large corporations in the midst of litigation to individual family law matters, the firm provides a boutique service experience coupled with the perks you would expect from a mid-size to larger firm. As a founding principal of Bremer Whyte, Brown & O’Meara, LLP, Nicole Whyte is a Certified Family Law Specialist who strives to keep her clients’ interests at heart. Ms. Whyte heads up a team of 14 full time family lawyers, along with partners Sheila Stiles, Nicole Schmidt, and Nicole Nuzzo who are all Certified Family Law Specialists. Ms. Whyte skillfully leads the Family Law practice, ensuring individualized counseling and representation in all areas of family law and has the unique ability and skill to negotiate favorable settlements for her clients’ in complex and difficult cases. When the case must be tried, she is a formidable force in the courtroom, with years of jury and civil trial experience. She has been recognized as a Super Lawyer for the past 11 years; named among the Top 50 Super Lawyers in Orange County since 2015; Top 50 Women Super Lawyers since 2016; selected as one of America’s Top 100 Attorneys; Top 100 Women Lawyers in California by the Daily Journal in 2016; and has ranked in Best Lawyers lists as a “Best Lawyer” for her work in family law in 2020 and 2021. “The ability to help people navigate the many complex concerns that arise during legal proceedings is extremely gratifying.”

bremerwhytefamily.com 20320 S.W. Birch St. // Newport Beach, CA 92660 // 949-221-1000 F. 949-221-1001

94 O ra nge C o a st • April 2021

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TRUST ESTATE PROBATE LITIGATION

Scott E. Rahn RMO LLP

EEING CLIENTS AS PEOPLE, NOT CASES When families in Southern California find themselves in the unthinkable position of grieving the loss of a loved one and needing a top law firm for trust, estate or probate litigation, they turn to RMO LLP. RMO professionals deftly navigate the turbulence and turmoil of each case’s unique circumstances, professionally and aggressively taking control, protecting assets and executing proven strategies. CUSTOMIZING AN APPROACH TO FIT CLIENT NEEDS RMO approaches these goals while minimizing conflict and providing peace of mind by clearly and frequently communicating with clients and outmaneuvering the competition on the legal battlefield while also avoiding unnecessary and stressful conflicts that waste time and money. RESOURCEFUL, STRATEGIC AND EFFECTIVE The boutique firm’s clients count on leading-edge advice and proven strategies from its probate, trust and estate attorneys – who live in, think about and litigate these issues all day, every day. Because RMO’s litigators have seen—or heard—nearly all of it before, they know what works and how to avoid needless expense, stress and delays. The firm leverages its in-depth experience with cutting-edge technologies that help its legal teams maximize efficiencies and reduce the time and cost necessary to obtain the best outcome.

RMOLawyers.com 3200 Park Center Dr., Ste. 270 // Costa Mesa, CA 92626 // 949-226-8509

April 2021 • Or a nge Coa st 95

DINING GUIDE NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

AS OF PRESS TIME IN EARLY MARCH, RESTAURANTS WERE ALLOWED TO SERVE DINERS OUTSIDE. RULES CHANGE OFTEN: PLEASE USE THIS GUIDE AS A STARTING POINT, THEN CALL THE RESTAURANT TO LEARN ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND RESERVATIONS. DESCRIPTIONS HERE ARE MOSTLY BASED ON DINING BEFORE SOCIAL DISTANCING. AP

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DINING GUIDE ORANGE COUNT Y’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE F O R R E S TAU R A N T N E W S & M I N I R E V I E W S

P R I C I N G $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ALISO VIEJO OPAH Trendy and sleek, this neighborhood hottie oozes a hip energy that attracts single minglers and ’burban scene-hunters in search of artfully prepared California cuisine. Choose from a varied, creative menu with an array of signature items. Monster martinis keep the mood lively. 26851 Aliso Creek Road, 949-360-8822. $$

ANAHEIM CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great peoplewatching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$ MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE Steaks—including the 24-ounce porterhouse and center-cut filet mignon—are wet-aged 23 to 25 days. Fill your plate with giant sides of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer bar-bite deals nightly from 4:30 to closing. 1895 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-621-0101. See South Coast Metro location. $$$ NAPA ROSE Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew

Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare. The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313 Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$ POKINOMETRY Downtown Anaheim’s build-a-poke-bowl canteen is busy for three reasons: The food is delectable, cheap, and made your way. All the elements of delicious Hawaiian poke are assembled based on what you choose. Pick from cubed raw fish, white or brown rice, fresh onions, cucumber, avocado, mild to incendiary sauces, and vibrant garnishes of smelt roe, sesame seeds, nori, pickled ginger, and wasabi. Parking is problematic, so go off-hours, or pay for a spot in the Wells Fargo garage off West Broadway. 184 S. Harbor Blvd., 657-208-3488. No alcohol. $ THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$ ROY’S Chef-partner Laura Reyes adds dishes to Roy Yamaguchi’s signature collection of Hawaiian-Asian favorites. From sushi to dessert, the accent is on

fresh flavors. This location is Convention Centerand Disneyland-close. 321 W. Katella Ave., 714-7767697. $$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Sizzling Prime steaks custom-aged 21 days are served topped with big pats of butter. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2041 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-750-5466. See Irvine location. $$$ TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and allnatural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$ URBANA This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS EL CHOLO A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La Habra locations. $$ REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$ ROSINE’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A siz-

OUR CRITERIA Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classiﬁcations are based on a typical three-course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com. 96 Orange Coast • April 2021

Paella. Tapas. Gypsy Music.

AN authentic spanish experience since 1987! Live Music & Late Night Dining is Back! Costa Mesa | (949) 688-1555 | 1870 Harbor Blvd. Long Beach | San Diego | CafeSevilla.com

DINING GUIDE yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters and an alluring happy hour. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714-592-3122. Dinner only. $$$ TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

CORONA DEL MAR

Charcuterie board at Old Brea Chop House able roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

BREA BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$ CEDAR CREEK INN A gorgeous patio, welcoming lounge, and attractive dining room lend upscale charisma to this handsome eatery with an appealing menu that has something for everyone. Coffee-shop favorites get deluxe attention. Salads, sandwiches, and desserts are particularly strong. Dependably skilled service. 20 Pointe Drive, 714-255-5600. $$ CHA CHA’S L ATIN KITCHEN This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of

98 Orange Coast • April 2021

many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$ JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN Big and welcoming, this 230-seat sprawling venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 3325 E. Imperial Highway, 714-733-1310. See Dana Point location. $$$ MACALL ANS PUBLIC HOUSE Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W. Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$ OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE Finally, North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service. Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy

THE BUNGALOW Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis, and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads. Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E. Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$ CDM RESTAURANT The successful team behind A Restaurant pounced on the defunct Crow Bar, retooling it with scraped light-wood floors, peacock-blue velvet booths, leather chairs, and a freestanding, always-busy bar. The kitchen takes on seasonal, contemporary American fare. Think a trio of unexpectedly sublime pizzas. Ethereal Parker House rolls. A killer Niman Ranch pork chop. 2325 E. Coast Highway, 949-287-6600. $$$ EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La Habra locations. $ FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$ FIVE CROWNS O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution. As always, service is polished and accommodating. Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C. Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$ QUIET WOMAN Perpetually packed with locals for decades, the Q-Dub (as it’s known) pours mean drinks and nota-

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

JEWEL OF A BISTRO | BLUE BOX CAFE

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BLUE BOX CAFE

ll things Tiffany & Co. come in unmistakable blue packaging, and its new bistro is no exception. The first Blue Box Cafe opened in 2017 at the jewelry company’s flagship Fifth Avenue location in New York City; the second is in the boutique’s stunning new relocated space at South Coast Plaza,

ble wines by the glass, and keeps a teensy kitchen busy cranking out more-than-decent American grub such as filet mignon sliders and crab cakes, at prices that reflect the ZIP code. Most nights, a house band cranks up the decibels and enlivens the vibe. 3224 E. Coast Highway, 949-640-7440. $$ SIDEDOOR Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the

which nearly doubles the size of its quarters since 1998. Fans of the beloved Audrey Hepburn film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” pop in for exactly that—chiaseed yogurt pudding with farmer’s market fruit, croissant with Oxnard strawberries and lavender mascarpone, avocado toast, smoked salmonbuckwheat mille-feuille, and Tiffanyblend tea costs $120 for two—or the

glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$ TACKLE BOX Pretty little Corona del Mar State Beach has a yearround chow counter, thanks to Pasadena native and chef-owner Brian Huskey, a veteran of “Top Chef” season 11. Look for an affordable menu of daytime eats that includes avocado-smoked salmon tartine, chilaquiles with black beans, and even an ace Buffalo cauliflower for beach body vegetarians. Weekend lunch includes star Maine lobster roll on squid ink bun. No booze, but there’s always a house-made agua fresca. 3029 Shore Ave., 949-723-0502. $

Tiffany Tea with scones, tea sandwiches, chicken salad, petit fours, and confections is $150 for two; add $750 if you want the Color Block bone-china set for two to take home. The eatery opened with takeout only; enter through the Home & Accessories salon when indoor dining is allowed. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa—BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

COSTA MESA [

SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO

]

2145 Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almond-wood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. Star dessert:

April 2021 • Orange Coast 99

DINING GUIDE horchata tiramisu. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853. Beer and wine. $$ ARC The welcoming lair features a 15-seat bar overlooking the open kitchen and hard-working oven. It’s an audacious concept that lures a varied, loyal crowd. Winners include roasted pork cheek, a gorgeous wedge salad, and unique steak cuts. The pizza boutique serves posh pies topped with the likes of blue cheese, short rib, and basil, or roast duck, romesco, and olives. 3321 Hyland Ave., 949-500-5561. $$$ BOATHOUSE COLLECTIVE This quirky hang is a restaurant and private-event venue from local artist Clayton Peterson. A pastiche of upcycled shipping containers and post-andbeam construction, the space is also indoor-outdoor, with frequent live music by local and touring acts. Mathieu Royer is executive chef, cooking a tight and ever-changing menu of eclectic fare that’s in sync with this oddball shop. Don’t miss the savory burger. Terrific craft cocktails ensure a mixed crowd. 1640 Pomona Ave., 949-646-3176. $$ CASABL ANCA Owner Abder Amokrane refreshes this venue with a new identity, decor updates, and menu upgrades. The vast and ancient cuisine of the Mahgreb is nicely executed here with a bit of Spain (paella) and France (shrimp Provençale) included. Bountiful platters of appetizers span regions and centuries of legendary cuisine. Seating options aplenty mean this is a good call for gatherings of many sizes. But even the five-course dinner for two is appealing and a steal at $36 per person. 1976 Newport Blvd., 949423-7990. Dinner only. $$ THE COUNTRY CLUB The 175-seat “social club” is a massive reset of Pierce Street Annex, a long-notorious Costa Mesa watering hole. VIP treatment without a membership fee is the concept partners Mario Marovic and Andrew Gabriel are leveraging, complete with an adults-only setting with Gatsby-era glam. High-class cocktails are not fussy but lean on house-made syrups and mixers. 330 E. 17th St., 949-281-2582. $$ DESCANSO Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$ HABANA Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies. Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$ IZAKAYA HACHI A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem. The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and

100 Orange Coast • April 2021

Ahi tuna at Glasspar

unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566. Dinner only. $ L A CAVE Retro-hip, if unintentionally so, Eastside Costa Mesa’s ’60s Rat Pack lair of a joint has changed little more than the prices over these many years. Stiff drinks, thick steaks, and live music keep the leather booths full, one floor below ground via a tired elevator. This is the place to feed your craving for Sinatra and Elvis tribute acts. 1695 Irvine Ave., 949-646-7944. $$$ MESA At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725 Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$ PITFIRE ARTISAN PIZZA The first O.C. shop from this thriving L.A.-based chain is not your nonna’s pizzeria. Upbeat and come-asyou-are casual, it’s a Cal-Ital original. A menu packed with classic and seasonal wood-fired pies, pastas, and salads has wide appeal, so this retooled Marie Callender’s stays packed with fans of all ages. Check out its back-door speakeasy, Pie Society. 353 E. 17th St., 949-313-6333. $ PLUMS CAFE Fresh, high-quality cooking shaped by the Pacific Northwest lures locals to this strip-center lunch and

weekend brunch favorite for creative eats such as smoked salmon hash and hazelnut flapjacks. 369 E. 17th St., 949-722-7586. Breakfast and lunch. $$ SOCIAL Social brought hipster dining to a scruffy westside strip mall, opening the area to considerable gentrification. The 118-seat retooled venue surprises with sophisticated cooking and a nicely refreshed menu, especially now that executive chef Jeffrey Boullt is back and managing two scratch kitchens. Yes, a second Social is open in Huntington Beach. Signature items include lamb empanadas, Wagyu beef tri-tip, and craft cocktails. Service is variable. 512 W. 19th St., 949-642-2425. Weekend brunch. Second location (not reviewed) in Huntington Beach at 21214 Beach Blvd. $$ TACO MARÍA Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

CYPRESS CAFÉ HIRO Hiding out in Cypress, chef-owner Hiro Ohiwa caters to a devoted following who admires his formal French training and Japanese aesthetic. He applies it to a quirky lineup of seasonal specials where anything goes—from wild mushroom curry to osso bucco—all at prices too fair to be true. No wonder the place is always packed. 10509 Valley View St., 714-527-6090. Beer and wine. $

DANA POINT ENOSTEAK The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged—is the star of a pithy-if-pricey menu that’s unabashedly loyal. Lavish compound butters to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. Polished service and often enchanting desserts. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949240-2000. $$$ GLASSPAR Now an improv market offering the primo seafood typically sold to coastal resorts, Glasspar launched as a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room. Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahé site, open for dining as well as supporting the community with ultrafresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on top-shelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$ JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN Big and welcoming, this 225-seat harbor side venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

Celebration Stay tuned! We are cultivating something special blooming Spring 2021.

For details and more information, visit: orangecoast.com/bestrestaurants

DINING GUIDE upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 25001 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-388-8900. See Brea location. $$ RAYA Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience. But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$ SALT CREEK GRILLE Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquite-grilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics. The roomy lounge does a vigorous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs. 32802 Pacific Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$ WATERMAN’S HARBOR A beacon of new on Dana Point Harbor’s salt-worn embarcadero, this sleek seafooder offers two floors with scenic views of the breakwater action, including a big, breezy patio shaded from the sun’s rays on those high UV days. Fresh oysters are the $1.50 star of happy hour. 34661 Golden Lantern St., 949764-3474. $$$

FOUNTAIN VALLE Y AU L AC A miraculous menu of traditional Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, without meat or fish, comprises the self-described “humanese” cuisine at this New Agey bistro. A creamy fish-shaped loaf of tofu is unforgettable; so are the spring rolls. Even desserts are healthful, with fruity selections such as Rainbow in the Sky Pie. 16563 Brookhurst St., 714-418-0658. $$ THE RECESS ROOM This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst St., 714-377-0398. $$$

FULLERTON THE CELL AR Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$ EARLY BIRD Imaginative breakfasts washed down with inseason, single-origin coffee make this humble hang Fullerton’s sleeper for the foodie crowd. Look for duck confit hash, buckwheat flapjacks with gingercitrus syrup, or trendy hits like buttermilk fried

102 Orange Coast • April 2021

Shrimp tempura at Nova Kitchen & Bar

chicken and waffles, complete with house gravy. 1000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-529-4100. Breakfast and lunch. $$ HOPSCOTCH TAVERN The affable downtown watering hole is unabashedly keen on booze. Artisan cocktails that feature 140 whiskeys and a choice of 80 craft beers are the axis for a limited menu big on brawny proteins, savory carbs, and fried finger foods. The clever revamp of Fullerton’s 1918 Mission Revival-style Pacific Electric Railway Station feels accessible and low-key. 136 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-871-2222. $$ KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kebobs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired Wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens. Khan Saab has the best stocked alcohol-free bar in O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$ SUMMIT HOUSE Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers a sparkling citylights view at night, though the attractive grounds are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled

Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-671-4111. $$$

GARDEN GROVE NOVA KITCHEN & BAR This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan, Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BEACH BLK EARTH SEA SPIRITS The tourist crowd is mixed with locals year-round at this second-floor spot with a magnetic beach view. Chef Jesus Munoz’s photo-ready dishes deliver the satisfaction that builds a fan base for Prime

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

Akaushi steaks and huge Australian lobster tails at the expected steep prices. Attentive service always makes a fat tab go down easier. Garage parking is a huge plus during summers in Surf City. 300 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-960-0996. $$$ CUCINA ALESSÁ Despite the exit of its founding chef, this two-story trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 520 Main St., 714-969-2148. See Newport Beach location. $$ DUKE’S Jammed on summer weekends, this pierside hangout is named for Hawaiian surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku. Grilled fish and steaks are fine for Saturday nights, but the kitchen excels at tasty fish tacos, macadamia nut hummus, and burgers with Kennebec chips. Monday’s happy hour is from 3:30 to 9 p.m. 317 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-6446. $$ FISH CAMP From Sam King of the King’s Fish House fleet comes this overtly dressed-down seafood cantina at the northern edge of coastal O.C. Order the day’s catch from the counter and await delivery of straightforward classics such as pristine oysters, ahi poke, Idaho trout, and crab galore. Sandwiches, skewers, and worthy clam chowders also recommended. 16600 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-592-2267. $$ RED TABLE The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.”

The creative menu of American eats is big on highcarb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$ SESSIONS Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ SLOW FISH Easily overlooked in a strip mall along busy Bolsa Chica, this slightly hip storefront serves distinctly modern Cal-Asian fare, artfully plated by chef Sean An. Don’t miss the signature Fat Avo appetizer or entree of braised short rib over black rice. Good sakes, great prices, and a teensy sushi bar are unexpected extras. 16051 Bolsa Chica St., 714-846-6951. $$ WATERTABLE Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of

longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$ BISTANGO A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$ CHA CHA’S L ATIN KITCHEN This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare

CHEF & RESTAURANT PROFILES

PICCOLINO

OLD WORLD FOOD, NEW WORLD AMBIENCE

Salvatore Faso opened Piccolino Ristorante in 2007. Born to Sicilian immigrants in &KLFDJR UDLVHG LQ WKH NLWFKHQV RI ,WDO\ ZKHUH ƓUVW JUDQGPD DQG WKHQ KLV SDUHQWV VHUYHG local cuisine. The goal was simple: combine his lifelong experiences accumulated LQ WKH UHVWDXUDQWV RI &KLFDJR ,WDO\ DQG &DOLIRUQLD ZLWK WKH ƓQHVW LQJUHGLHQWV authenticity, preparation and Sicilian cuisine philosophy. His passion for the Canyons and its surrounding communities landed him in Mission Viejo. White table clothes and candlelit dining await your visit! 29719 Los Alisos Boulevard, Mission Viejo, CA 92692 949-380-7261 | piccolinomv.com

DINING GUIDE boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$ CUCINA ENOTECA This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to handmade pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$ HABANA We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor. A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100. See Costa Mesa location. $$$ JA JIAOZI It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. Firsttimers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Topnotch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$ JAVIER’S CANTINA & GRILL Sipping margaritas made with premium tequilas and fresh lime juice, and dining on steaks or seafood amid the glamorous resort-style decor is like a little trip to Baja. You’ll find combos, salsa with a kick, and creamy guacamole, but go for the signature spinach enchiladas in an emerald-green pasilla sauce. The Irvine Spectrum location is buzzy and busy. 536 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-872-2101. See Newport Coast location. $$ MEIZHOU DONGPO Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijing-style roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes. Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors. Spicy values include dan dan noodles and countrystyle sliced pork. 15363 Culver Drive, 949-433-5686. Beer and wine. $$$ NORTH ITALIA Rich, intense flavors, discerning techniques, and a modern mindset make North Italia, from Fox Restaurant Concepts, a chain that easily beats some indies out there. Sunny by day and stylish at night, the voluminous room’s high ceiling and open plan manages to feel more intimate than its 280- to 300seat capacity, though it’s perpetually packed. Aim for the artisan-style pizzas, fresh house-made pastas, 104 Orange Coast • April 2021

Beet and goat cheese tortellini at Porch & Swing

short rib with polenta, farm salad, and bombolini dessert. 2957 Michelson Drive, 949-629-7060. $$ PAUL MARTIN’S AMERICAN GRILL A major player at the Spectrum in Irvine, this inviting 295-seat venue offers a plain-spoken, single-page carte of highly seasonal American dishes. Sunday dinner deal on Prime rib, and Monday $65 wine dinner for two. 534 Spectrum Center Drive, 949453-1144. $$ PORCH & SWING This delightful new indie serves a BEST NEW RESTAURANT “taste of Charleston” starring original 2021 riffs on American classics by chef Justin Werner and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Musttry dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$ PUESTO San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask

about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577 Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$ ROBATA WASA From the wizards behind popular Wasa sushi comes this sleek, authentic izakaya at the Spectrum, ideal for noshing Japanese comfort nibbles at lunch or after a movie, or tossing back sakes and brews. 926 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-536-5064. $$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Sizzling Prime steaks, wet-aged from 24 to 28 days, are served topped with big pats of butter and chopped parsley. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2961 Michelson Drive, 949-252-8848. See Anaheim location. $$$ SESSIONS No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lake-

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

side setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ SAM WOO RESTAURANT Many don’t know this reasonably priced, no-frills place is not named after someone called Sam Woo— the term actually refers to the Chinese notion of harmony. Yanked-from-the-tank seafood is a specialty, as are dim sum and Hong Kong noodle dishes. Service is reliably speedy and brusque. For faster carry-out meals, try the express buffet next door. 15333 Culver Drive, 949-262-0688. Beer and wine. $ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$ TWO LEFT FORKS This inland sibling has the strong appeal of its now-closed original Dana Point location, except the coastal site has been swapped for a roomier space with easy parking, as well as lunch and weekend brunch service. Come here for bananas Foster pancakes or an open-face sandwich with burrata, prosciutto, avocado, and eggs your way. Popular for happy hour. 6511 Quail Hill Parkway, 949-3876700. $$$

LAGUNA BEACH ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar featuring primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers, all hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$ BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$ BRUSSELS BISTRO Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$ CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch Cal-Mex fare. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs

topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas. Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829. See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$ COYOTE GRILL A great scenic stop on your drive down Coast Highway, Coyote Grill is a Mexican-American diner with a million-dollar view. For brunch, choose from breakfast burritos, chilaquiles, and huevos rancheros. Dinners range from fried chicken to lobster tacos and tamales. The food is serviceable, but the experience is like a minivacation. 31621 Coast Highway, 949-499-4033. $$ THE DRAKE The grownups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish). Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$ DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble. Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft drinks

FROM THE LANDS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN Damasq Café, is local familyowned featuring fast, healthy Halal-certified Mediterranean cuisine in Corona del Mar.

Lamb Salad Plate

Est. 2015

Chef Jamal Diab creates mouthwatering selections made with fresh herbs, bell peppers, onions, garlic, tomatoes and eggplant. Jamal’s menu also includes tender flame-grilled beef, chicken, chicken kabobs and lamb infused with flavorful spices, homemade Habanero, Tahini and Garlic “Secret” Sauces. Great Flavors - Great Prices!

3601 E Coast Hwy / Corona del Mar, California / 949-873-5425

April 2021 • Orange Coast 105

DINING GUIDE also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949715-7700. $$ HARLEY L AGUNA BEACH Refreshed to a comfy sheen, this landmark twostory tavern is unfussy and welcoming with vintage family photos on the wall, some featuring the chef’s Grandpa Harley. As ever, chef-owner Greg Daniels coaxes savoriness from goods sourced from small producers such as Gonestraw Farms in Riverside. Their eggs with bright-orange yolks become soft, jammy “deviled” eggs. Gonestraw chicken also stars in a lovely potpie with celery root, heirloom carrots, and the warm aura of curry. For dessert, downhome pecan pie and ice cream made with honey from Orange Park Acres’ own Backyard Bees. 370 Glenneyre St., 949-715-1530. Dinner only. $$$ L AS BRISAS Equal parts history, view, and food, Las Brisas (The Breezes) endures as a coastal landmark locals can’t resist for showing off the best view in Laguna Beach. Whether it’s for margaritas at sunset or a leisurely Sunday brunch, the veteran dining room team generally handles high-volume crowds with poise. Breakfast and even Sunday brunch are good values. The active patio bar fills to capacity in summer. 361 Cliff Drive, 949-497-5434. Reservations recommended. $$$ THE LOFT Part of the fun of dining at the posh Montage Laguna Beach is a spectacular ocean view, and this restful aerie delivers that view with style. The welledited menu features refined fare made from prime, seasonal goods with coastal flavors. Always leave room for nibbles from the inimitable cheese gallery boasting the area’s best selection of elite cheeses with from-scratch condiments. 30801 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-6420. $$$ LUMBERYARD Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a welcoming bar and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. Look for a solid happy hour. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$ MOZAMBIQUE The eclectic cuisine shows influences of South Africa. Peri-peri prawns, curries, and grilled meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-7777. $$$ NEAPOLITAN PIZZERIA & BIRRERIA All about pizza worship and emphatically Italian, right down to the Molino San Felice flour and the glossy red Stefano Ferrara wood-fire oven imported from Italy. These pies—bubbling hot in the middle with a puffy, spotted ring of crust—require a knife and fork. Don’t ignore the cadre of small plates that includes a terrific chopped salad and dandy meatballs the size of softballs. 31542 S. Coast Highway, 949-499-4531. Beer and wine. $$ NICK’S Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is

106 Orange Coast • April 2021

Pork belly Benedict at Sapphire Cellar Craft Cook

notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$ OLIVER’S OSTERIA Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon Road, 949-715-0261. $$$ SAPPHIRE CELL AR CRAFT COOK The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location. Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

SEL ANNE STEAK TAVERN Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway. Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people-watching. 1464 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$ SPL ASHES RESTAURANT Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does Fougeray’s five-star resume that includes a James Beard nomination. Expect seasonal, coastal fare. Ask for lower-level patio seating and you might feel spray off the crashing waves. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S. Coast Highway, 888-281-3502. $$$ STARFISH Locals and escaped Montage resort guests slip in for seaside cuisine with an Asian inflection at this Coast Highway venue. The dusky digs and sexy ’tude

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

make it a good stop for appetizers and craft cocktails. Ample free parking is a plus. 30832 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9200. $$$ 230 FOREST AVENUE Lagunatics and sightseers mingle at this lively openair cafe, where the martinis are as popular as the modern California cuisine. Noisy, cramped quarters are overlooked once the waiter brings your day boat scallops. Primo people-watching from the tables fronting one of the village’s busiest sidewalks. 230 Forest Ave., 949-494-2545. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS BREAK OF DAWN Fine-dining chef Dee Nguyen never looked back when he escaped five-star kitchens to create this daytime diner serving wildly creative comfort fare with Asian inflections. Whether sweet—French toast crème brûlée with Mexican chocolate—or savory— Hawaiian sausage with fried eggs, scallions, green papaya, and rice—the result is spellbinding. 24291 Avenida De La Carlota, 949-587-9418. $$ IRONWOOD The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft

cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA NIGUEL HENDRIX Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes, Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this optionlean suburb. It’s from the group behind Laguna Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef. A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. $$

LA HABRA EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg. Green corn tamales (available seasonally) have achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

LAKE FOREST BRÜ GRILL & MARKET Ambitious, with 245 seats, this suburban indie goes all in for craft and microbrews, memorable cocktails, and pub food: a killer artisan sausage platter, Belgian-style mussels, and top-tier charcuterie. Entrees can be hit or miss, though the bone-in pork chop is a triumph. Drinks and brews (35 on tap) outshine the wine list. The on-site market retails wine, cheese, and other menu items. 23730 El Toro Road, 949-305-5757. $$

LOS ALAMITOS SHENANDOAH AT THE ARBOR American regional comfort food with a Southern appeal is reason to visit this sweet family-owned cottage with lovely, tree-canopied garden seating in back. This cozy spot satisfies when the craving calls for Granny’s fried chicken, or country-fried pork chops. Commendable gumbo and fried green tomatoes, too. 10631 Los Alamitos Blvd., 562-4311990. Beer and wine. $$

MISSION VIEJO DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch

CHEF & RESTAURANT PROFILES AWARD WINNING

ANAHEIM WHITE HOUSE RESTAURANT Savor upscale Northern Italian cuisine in an elegant, lavish, al fresco setting. A hidden gem located in a historical landmark building that attracts visitors and locals alike. With an elegant atmosphere and spot on unique menu selections, an extensive wine list provides wine by the glass, by the bottle or expertly paired with your meal E\ RQH RI RXU FHUWLƓ HG VRPPHOLHUV 6WULFWO\ adhered Covid 19 safety precautions are maintained to protect our guests and staff.

887 South Anaheim Boulevard Anaheim, CA 92805 714-772-1381 anaheimwhitehouse.com

DINING GUIDE cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$ WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

NE WP O RT B E A CH A&O KITCHEN + BAR A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gastropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. $$ A RESTAURANT This old-school hangout rarely wants for business, thanks to the retooling of American classics made with premium goods. The stellar burger is not on the menu or always available, but ask anyway. At A Market next door, the inimitable Shelly Register oversees gourmet sandwiches and to-go goodies. 3334 W. Coast Highway, 949-650-6505. Dinner only. $$$ BACK BAY BISTRO Though you won’t see ocean waves, waterfront seating on the quiet bay abounds at this relaxed venue inside the Newport Dunes Resort. A broad Euro-Cal menu keeps the resort crowd happy, while improved wines and slick details such as a retracting roof and valet parking lure the locals. 1131 Back Bay Drive, 949-999-3170. $$$ BAYSIDE Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping. Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for relaxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in on Friday nights for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$ BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite. Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949-520-7191. $$$

108 Orange Coast • April 2021

Kona kampachi crudo at Fable & Spirit BLUEWATER GRILL SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Classic rich chowder, grilled trout, and fried clams share the daily menu with modern dishes such as zesty cioppino and mahi-mahi sliders with jalapeno aioli. A seasoned crew smoothly shifts from icy platters of just-shucked oysters, to salt-and-pepper shrimp. The menu boasts seasonal specials as well. 630 Lido Park Drive, 949-675-3474. $$ CANALETTO From the cognoscenti of Il Fornaio, this is the perfect SoCal vision of an upscale Italian trattoria. The big draws are the fresh-baked breads, pizzas, pastas, and risotto dishes. Don’t miss the bigoli alla Padovana with big strands of perciatelli and the bold flavors of house-made sausage mingled with porcini mushrooms. 545 Newport Center Drive, 949-640-0900. $$ THE CANNERY The 1921 landmark structure has dazzled diners for more than 50 years with its waterfront site, pristine seafood, and top chops. Executive chef Marcus Hagan keeps the menu relevant by adding new

dishes, say baked Peruvian scallops, to classics such as the trusted lobster roll. Also check out The Snug, a cozy bar downstairs, carved from the main dining room. Dockside dining offered for boaters. 3010 Lafayette Road, 949-566-0060. $$$ CUCINA ALESSÁ Despite the exit of its founding chef, this trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 6700 W. Coast Highway, 949-645-2148. See Huntington Beach location. $$ CUCINA ENOTECA Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads. Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique and lots of quirky-chic furnishings for sale. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR This flagship location’s makeover includes a renovated bar, a much larger patio, and the debut of lunch service. Dry-aged steaks star at this red meat specialist, supported by a luxe array of seafood starters. New a la carte lunch options include a filet mignon wedge salad. The sensational happy hour is one of Fashion Island’s most popular. Another house signature: an all-star wine list with more than 100 choices by the glass. 455 Newport Center Drive, 949-720-9633. $$$ GULFSTREAM Heavenly biscuits, baked to order, and pristine oysters, shucked to order (in season), are two reasons to visit this popular bar and restaurant. The sand-floor patio with glowing fire pit attracts singles, while the ocean-fresh fare draws foodies. If freshly caught seafood doesn’t appeal, there are terrestrial dishes such as mustard barbecue beef ribs. 850 Avocado Ave., 949-718-0188. $$$ HARBORSIDE RESTAURANT One of O.C.’s most iconic landmarks, the 1906 Balboa Pavilion still lures visitors to its harbor view, and celebrants to its sweeping ballroom for special events and weddings galore. Expect a safe menu of all-American classics. Locals love that happy hour starts at 11:30 a.m. 400 Main St., 949-673-4633. $$ HOOK & SPEAR Executive chef Andy Arndt offers sustainable coastal cuisine at this indoor-outdoor venue with a Pacific view. Start with Hawaiian shrimp with hearts of palm, yuzu kosho, and mint. The day’s catch varies

Fashion Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949-7061416. See Irvine location. $$ EDDIE V’S WILDFISH Wildfish lures a loyal following. The finely calibrated menu of pristine seafood and first-class steaks keeps the glossy room and fireplace patio hopping, especially for nightly happy hour deals when upscale locals crowd the sleek bar. Urbane service. Strong wine list. 1370 Bison Ave., 949-720-9925. $$$ FABLE & SPIRIT From the family behind Dublin 4 BEST NEW RESTAURANT comes this lush addition to the area 2020 across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$ FIG & OLIVE Soak up the luxury of Cannes at Fashion Island’s stylish “import” that brims with beautiful people. Ingredient-driven dishes, made with local and seasonal fare and a global palette of olive oils, are more classic French-Mediterranean than trailblazing. Stunning dining rooms lend even business lunches a leisurely feel. Best dishes include chicken tagine with figs and olives, plus the creative, costly cocktails. 151 Newport Center Drive, 949-877-3005. $$$

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by season, but landlubbers can indulge in Anderson Valley lamb sirloin or a 40-ounce tomahawk chop with balsamic sprouts. A chill lounge is apropos for cold brews, small plates, and comfy game watching. Newport Beach Marriott Hotel & Spa, 900 Newport Center Drive, 949-729-6900. $$$ LIDO BOTTLE WORKS This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$ MALIBU FARM LIDO Malibu farm girl and native Swede Helene Henderson adds another ocean-air venue for colorful organic fare. The all-day menu boasts fat burritos, fruit-covered grain, or yogurt bowls and savory options that include the best-seller, an outstanding fried egg sandwich with great bacon and Havarti on country toast with lemon aioli. Multigrain pancakes are worthy, but Swedish mini pancakes with berries and cream are stupendous. 3420 Via Oporto, 949-791-2096. $$ MOULIN Moulin is the passion project of Paris native Laurent Vrignaud. After 30 years in the action-sports industry, he lives his longtime dream of serving bistro classics, selling oven-fresh baguettes and grab-and-go dishes, and peddling wines and other

800.397.8179 ORANGECOAST.COM

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April 2021 • Orange Coast 109

DINING GUIDE

Balboa sushi roll at Shorebird French pantry items. The unfussy bistro and patio evoke Paris at every turn. It’s O.C.’s gathering spot for expats and Francophiles. 1000 Bristol St. North, 949-474-0920. Locations (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach and Costa Mesa. $$ OLEA CELL AR CRAFT COOK Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive, Newport Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$ PESCADOU BISTRO After three decades at its vintage location, this vestpocket bistro owned by Jacques and Olga de Quillien is as cozy and classically French as ever. The blackboard $40 prix fixe rules supreme, but you can also indulge in classics that would thrill Julia

110 Orange Coast • April 2021

Child: braised rabbit, duck confit with frites, and luscious ratatouille. Seasoned servers keep the regulars content, so it’s no wonder that diners quietly keep this gem their secret. 3325 Newport Blvd., 949-6756990. Dinner only. $$ PIZZERIA MOZZA This is the O.C. outpost of the rustic, reverent Italian cuisine brought so smashingly to L.A. in 2006 by luminaries Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joe Bastianich. Picture-perfect pizzas with heady toppings, delightful antipasti, comforting al forno dishes, and A+ desserts attract eager crowds to this simple, boxy space. Local beers, Italian wines, and a full bar. Don’t miss the cauliflower fritti, caprese salad, and any pizza with pork. Butterscotch budino is a gold rush, too. 800 W. Coast Highway, 949-945-1126. $$$ RED O Chicago’s Rick Bayless expands his empire by attaching his brand and recipes to this grand and handsome Fashion Island venue. Alas, the pricey fare doesn’t achieve the culinary distinction we expect from Bravo’s top chef master. Service is gracious and the yellowtail aguachile is lovely, but in a

county brimming with excellent Mexican options, this 250-seater feels designed for deep-pocketed tourists. 143 Newport Center Drive, 949-718-0300. $$$ ROYAL HEN This Balboa Island venue is a petite, urbane gastropub too small and busy to take reservations. The polished makeover suits the taut menu of dinner fare that includes a mean burger and signature chicken pie that sells out nightly. As ever, parking is vexing, so consider getting dropped off. 311 Marine Ave., 949-873-5603. Beer and wine. $$$ SABATINO’S LIDO SHIPYARD SAUSAGE CO. Peter Sabatino used to deliver his mom’s sausages door to door in Chicago. Now customers come to him in Newport Beach, where he sells 300 to 400 pounds a day from his restaurant. The old-school Italian menu and comfy patio make it a relaxing spot for first dates or family dinners of pastas, seafood, and, of course, dishes loaded with his secretrecipe sausages. 251 Shipyard Way, 949-723-0621. Beer and wine. $$ SESSIONS This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two. Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823 Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine. See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ SHOREBIRD Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view. Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$ SOL COCINA Fresh, spunky flavors of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula lure the coastal crowd to this bayside cantina. A kickin’ bar with crackling fireplace serves tasty cocktails, many made from scores of artisan tequilas. 251 E. Coast Highway, 949-675-9800. $$$ SUSHI ROKU The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$ TAVERN HOUSE KITCHEN + BAR David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes tweaked for 2020. Stand out new dishes for dinner photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

and weekend brunch include red snapper Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty presunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside Drive, 949-673-8464. $$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT, BAR & STORE Freshly unveiled after a major face-lift, this local favorite strives to remain relevant. The coastal cuisine is well-executed, from a menu that keeps up with dishes such as seared scallop sliders, za’atarcrusted ahi tuna with Beluga lentils, and filet mignon flatbread. As always, drinks are inviting with a tropical theme; the Mai Tai is the best around. A supersleek patio is light, bright, and big. This is a great place to meet for happy hour. 854 Avocado Ave., 949-760-8686. $$ TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Dr. Andrew Weil’s anti-inflammatory food pyramid is translated into a globally varied parade of healthful starters, salads, sandwiches, and entrees, with intriguing cocktails for good measure. Best (and quieter) seats are on the sleek, canopied patio with its lush living wall. 451 Newport Center Drive, 949-644-2400. $$ THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz. Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

P H O T O G R A P H B Y M A R I A H TA U G E R

NE WPORT COAST THE BEACHCOMBER The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers, especially in summer. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15 Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$ BLUEFIN Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949-715-7373. $$$ JAVIER’S CANTINA & GRILL Sipping margaritas made with premium tequilas and fresh lime juice, and dining on steaks or seafood amid the resort-style decor is like a little trip to Baja. You’ll find combos, salsa with a kick, and creamy guacamole, but go for the signature spinach enchiladas in an emerald-green pasilla sauce. This location has dreamy views of the Pacific. 7832 E. Coast Highway, 949-494-1239. See Irvine location. $$ MARCHÉ MODERNE The finest French bistro south of BEST NEW RESTAURANT Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs 2018 that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added

Salmon gravlax at Marché Moderne space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$ MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB O.C.’s flashiest hipsters gather here to be nursed like they’re bleeding cash. And they are. Megamartinis, obese lobsters, and Bible-thick steaks don’t come cheap, but this dramatic setting does offer the ocean view and suave service worthy of its position as our finest castle of cholesterol consumption. Thursdays are famed for singles action that approaches tournament level. 8112 E. Coast Highway, 949-376-6990. See South Coast Metro location. $$$ WASA SUSHI James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh

orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511. Beer and wine. $$ ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123 Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

ORANGE FELIX CONTINENTAL CAFE Despite the use of canned peas and a menu as old as the Castro regime, this value-conscious cafe remains a cult favorite, serving traditional Cuban and Spanish foods. A charming spot to sip a cafe con leche, enjoy a slice of tres leches cake, and watch the world go by. 36 Plaza Square, 714-633-5842. Beer and wine. $

April 2021 • Orange Coast 111

DINING GUIDE GABBI’S MEXICAN KITCHEN Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone Culinary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background. With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with Kurobuta pork belly and a pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-633-3038. $$ HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell St., 714-221-0680. $$ THE HOBBIT Gustatory delights worthy of Gatsby attract diners on special occasions to this gracious hacienda, where dinners are seven-course pageants that start with bubbly and nibbles in the wine cellar, and end hours later on the cigar patio. Each night’s menu is set weeks in advance—and so are most reservations. 2932 E. Chapman Ave., 714-997-1972. Reservations required. $$$ PRIME CUT CAFÉ & WINE BAR American comfort cuisine gets a major boost from top-notch ingredients, sophisticated kitchen techniques, and, of course, a wine bar with 100 choices by the taste, glass, or bottle. The dashing digs are casual enough to pair with a movie date next door. 1547 W. Katella Ave., 714-532-4300. $$

PLACENTIA EL FAROLITO Often packed tighter than a taquito, this is a go-to favorite for traditional border fare, served fast and friendly. Pass the wait with an icy Negra Modelo— regulars know to grab one from the cooler out front. Huevos dishes—rancheros, machaca, chorizo—are popular on weekend mornings, and served until 3 p.m. 201 S. Bradford Ave., 714-993-7880. $ FISH IN A BOTTLE Sleepy Placentia gets some modern chow at this maverick mom-and-pop cafe that supplements California cuisine with elaborate, innovative sushi rolls. If a Tuscan roll with grilled veggies and balsamic reduction doesn’t intrigue, go traditional with the soft-shell crabs with crispy tomato, or seared ahi with squash-seed crust. The casual cafe has a sushi bar for purists. 1205 E. Imperial Highway, 714528-4000. Beer, wine, and sake. $$

RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$

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Burrata at Mayﬁeld CARMELITA’S KITCHEN This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas. Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$

SAN CLEMENTE BRICK The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino Real, 949-429-1199. $$ IVA LEE’S Deep South and down-home despite the modern exterior, the Southern-Creole eats here are designed to help diners relax and let the good times roll. 555 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2855. Dinner only. $$$

MRK PUBLIC Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably Tuscan toast, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich. The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402 S. El Camino Real, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $ NICK’S On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna Beach location. $$ SOUTH OF NICK’S From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110 N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$ VINE A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-3612079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN C APISTRANO EL ADOBE DE CAPISTRANO This restaurant will always be known as Nixon’s favorite. No surprises here, just steaks, combo plates, friendly service, and a charming setting. Ask for a tour of the purportedly haunted carcel, a former jail converted into a wine cellar. This historic building used to be the juzgado, or court, in colonial days. 31891 Camino Capistrano, 949-493-1163. $$ L’HIRONDELLE This pudgy, white adobe in the mission’s shadow charms with home cooking of the French-Belgian sort. The snug room has a cozy aura for chilly nights; the flowery patio suits the cuisine. 31631 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-0425. Beer and wine. $$

MAYFIELD Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$ PUBLIC 74 This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its fauxramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211 Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$ RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district, Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752 Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$ SUNDRIED TOMATO This breezy cafe is a great find for light lunch and uncomplicated dinners. Small and large plates for the California palate: sundried tomato soup and memorable sandwiches, such as the honey-cilantro chicken pesto, or lamb burger with Gorgonzola and

42 YEARS

RESTAURANTS 17th Street Grill 714.730.0003 Belacan Grill

MALAYSIAN BISTRO

714.505.9908 Distinctive Shopping & Dining

Orange county’s most unique shopping experience

April 30th, 3-6pm

Come enjoy our monthly happy hour with wine, charcuterie & shopping at Charleston Provence Boutique! Happy Hour is on the last Friday. Enjoy 20% off.. We can’t wait to see you! Bonjou Have a Blessed Easter

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The Coffee Grinder 714.838.0960 The Crab Cooker 714.573.1077 El Torito 714.838.6630 Zov’s Bakery & Café 714.838.8855 Zov’s Bistro 714.838.8855 SERVICES 17th Street Optometry

aioli. 31781 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-1167. Second location (not reviewed) in San Clemente at 821 Via Suerte, 949-388-5757. $$

SANTA ANA [

Tina Marie’s

Fusion Hair 714.838.6000 Hair Industry The Salon 714.731.2530 Rebecca Pelletier Interiors 714.508.8581 Studio J

BRIGHTON COLLECTION

714.505.1676

Touch of Class ,iw iÀÞ 714.734.7749 SPECIALTY AA Jewel Box 714.669.9966

PILATES

714.832.7401 Tustin Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Center 714.544.5341 Winston’s Estate Gallery 714.508.0100

Charleston Provence BOUTIQUE

714.508.8581 Chemers Gallery 714.731.5432 Deckers Fine Gifts 714.832.7074

FASHION A Perfect Fit FINE LINGERIE

Discoveries

Fancy Nails 714.730.4722 Fitness Fixe 714.838.5751

714.544.6340

714.838.9664

]

BENCHMARK Quirky but capable, this Santa Ana newcomer goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root purée. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714-480-0225. $$ CHAPTER ONE The diverse crowd here drinks with gusto as proved by the enduring fame of its Moscow Mule, made with fresh-daily house ginger beer. Best bets include daily specials, unique hooch pours, and Sunday brunch. 227 N. Broadway, 714-352-2225. $$ CHATO’S BAR AND GRILL This intrepid Mexican canteen offers less familiar dishes—corundas, roast quail—alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán native Sergio Ortega previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and Sunday brunch. Commendable drinks. 400 N. Broadway, 714-852-3256. $$

714.665.5994 Frank’s Menswear 714.730.5945 La Galleria

OPTOMETRY

Orange Coast magazine - April 2021

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