Le Femme Fatale
Femme Fatale
She is a “deadly woman” She is driven by obsessive desires; hers and everyone else’s She knows who she is but she isn’t afraid to experiment with other guises Her inner beauty is her greatest possession and she knows how to switch it on so it steps outside of her She dresses to impress because she wants to not because she has to Her smile masks her mystery She is intelligent She knows how to get her own way and she does whatever it takes to get it She is spoilt because she knows she deserves it She is an indifferent enchantress She is overt by nature She is an artist and her body is her canvas She is fearless
Le Magazine Issue Four Publisher and Editor in Chief Kath Purkis
Editor and Creative Director Rhiannon Bulley
Art Director
Gregory Skibinski
Fashion and Editorial Assistant Rachel Mcrae
Photographic Contributors
James Broadhurst, Hamish Ta Me, Katie Pashley, Tim Kindler
Features Contributors
Brigitte Mol, Monique Friedlander, Scarlett Keddie
Illustrator
Caitlin Shearer
Special Project Contributors
Linda Jackson, Candace Meyer, Charlotte Stokes
Special Feature Contributors
Megan Washington, Natalia De Martin, Georgia Phillis, Michael Lo Sordo, Toby Maclean, Eleanor Pendleton, Marnie Simpson, Alexis Whelan, Emily Kiely, Simona Janek, Keith Archer, Corrine Grbevski, Vardoiu Nazarian, Vika Gazi, Michael Haldar, Sophie Ward, Verena Grotto, Anastasia Blades, Chih-Han Hsu, Olivia Tran, Frédéric Vielcanet, Emma Bergmeier, Rachael Cassar, Isabella Cleaver, Ashley Rae, Stephanie Reichman, Ash Heenan, Ruby Feneley, Eilika Meckbach, Bartholomew Eid, Ethan Robertson, Alex F , Ashleigh Croker, Michael Haldar, Poppy De Villeneuve, Lisa Sciberras, Jessica Hart, Esteban La Tessa.
Fashion Assistants
Rachel Mcrae, Viviene Gamboa, Natalia Mimo
With Special Thanks to
Mondo Digital, Strobe Hair, Ampersands Bookstore, The Photostudio, Viviens Model Management, EMA, Chadwicks Models, Priscilla’s Model Management
Cover Page Image
Philadelphia Philpot Millinery Hat Senada Theory Blouse Model Alexis from Viviens Model Management Photography Tim Kindler
Contents Le Letters
Letters from Le Editors
Le Feature
Secrets of Couture
Le Artiste Profile
Caitlin Sherer
58
96
Contributers
Mistress of Mistery
Disarmed
8
62
100
The Marrage of the Fearless Femme and the Modest Mistress
Runway Trends in Transit
6 Le Magazine Lovers
10 Le Moodboards
Le Feature
Le Style Destination
The Russian Renaissance
72
104
Le Wishlist
In Le Closet of
Poppy de Villenevue
Jessica Hart
12
74
107
Le Muse
Designer Profile
Le Project
May
Down at the Bottom of the Garden
76
108
The Last Romantic
Pixie-lated
Michael Lo Sordo
19
78
118
Le Artiste Profile
Le Beaute
Tips from Le boys
Linda Jackson
Guilded Reflections
Toby Maclean
20
83
120
Le Project
Le Beaute
Real Girls who Rule the World
Core of my Heart my Country
Nail it
Rachael Cassar
Mata Hari
16 Designer Profile
Tips from Le Boys
24
88
126
Le Wishlist
Le Beaute
Le Location
Megan Washington
34 Le Face to Watch
Alexis Whelan
Handled with Care
90 Le Beaute
Scent-uality
Ampusand Cafe
128 Le Literature
The Beginning Of An Inexplicable Journey
36
91
Lolita- Lights, Camera, Blossum
Celebrating the Organic Revolution
Le Culture
38
92
139
Fatale Instinct
Eleanor Pendleton
130
Le Lifestyle
In Le Bag of
48
94
Le Loves
142
Letters from
Le Editor
S
pring is all about new beginnings and the new you, it’s about moving forward. Spring is about embracing the sun, lazy Sundays on the boat, bringing out your classic nautical tee, rocking a backless dress, sporting the biggest trend – Nude.
Spring brings the racing carnival and frocking up for the racing season. I’ve introduced headwear to Le Black Book so you now have a one stop online destination for your race wear desires. This Spring I’ll be blogging to you live from Malta, Paris, London and Rome. I’ll be getting inspiration for the next issue of Le Magazine and meeting amazing fashion identities to share with you next issue. Summer is just around the corner and will consist of SPF 30+ at Tamarama, Picnics at Centennial Park, end of year Christmas parties in a Michael Lo Sordo statement dress, parties on pontoons on Sydney Harbour sporting a Natalie Chapman bodycon dress & taking the warm weather in your stride. I hope this Spring/Summer brings everything your heart desires and Le Black Book dresses you along the way. I know I’ll be following my heart this Spring/Summer and can’t wait to celebrate a new year & new beginnings in style. Kath x
6
| Le Letters |
rs L
e Magazine Issue Four has been months in the making born from the seeds of an idea about what fashion was saying and what we were trying to say through fashion, after all, fashion is a reflection of what we are trying to say. Vivien Westwood once said she believed clothing had the power to change the way people think, “I think that the real link that connects all my clothes is this idea of the heroic.� Le Magazine Issue Four is about being heroic. We would like you to make your clothing a projection of the heroine that is within you and that is what we have aimed to bring out in you through this fourth issue of Le Magazine, Le Femme Fatale.
I have had the privilege during my time with Le Magazine, both in the previous edition and in this one to work with some amazing creative minds. Some of them are back again this issue and some of them are brand new, but no matter whether they are old or new their ideas are brand new. It is to each of their brilliant minds, from the designers, to the artists, photographers, writers and profiled contributors that I dedicate this issue. To fashion icon Linda Jackson and the profound effect she has had on Australian culture by giving it a new means of expression. To Alexis Whelan the fearless fifteen year old model who grew up on a yacht. To Poppy De Villeneuve who went to a high security prison amongst many other places to capture humanity, to Vika Gazinskaya and Vardoui Nazarian who are bringing Russia back to life and to the world with their clothing, to Caitlin Shearer for following her heart and cementing heroines in ink and pencil. To everyone of my contributors who has had the courage to pursue their creative dreams and to Kath for giving them all a platform to stand on. Summer is a time of love, a time of freedom, a time when dreams are bought to life when the sun shines upon them and the shadows fall behind. It brings with it fond traditions and new beginnings. Embrace it and enjoy it and wear your heart on your sleeve. Yours sleeves can say a lot about the arm beneath them and a lack of can say a lot about the heroine in your heart. I wish you love, joy and freedom and passion in everything you do much like the passion of the many minds that have bought our modern day Femme Fatale to life. Lots of Love, Rhiannon x
7
Le Magazine
Lovers
Corrine Grbevski Make-up artist
What did you contribute to this issue of Le Magazine? I was the make up artist for the beauty shoot, Gilded Reflections in this issue as well as for Fatale Instinct, Pxie-lated, I also wrote the beauty article “Eye Spy”. What is your favourite part of being a make-up artist? Having a different canvas to work on every time and letting that inspire my work. Colour, hands down the best part. The people are pretty amazing too! Where do you get your inspiration from when you creating a look? I always like to see where the light falls on her face, and I just work from there, enhancing her natural beauty. Then I let colour do the talking expressing the mood and feel of the look. My favourate things are creams, (blush/eye shadow/lip products) they can add so much character to a make up. What is your number one beauty tip? My motto has always been imperfection is perfection. Keep your make up beautiful but not too over done. Who is your beauty icon? I love the versatility of Cate Blanchet (not to mention her skin!!!). I love the rebel in Lady Gaga. I love how flawless Dita Von Tease always looks and i've always had a soft spot for Kylie Minogue
Rachel Mcrae
Rhiannons righthand girl What did you contribute to tribute to this issue of Le magazine? For this issue, I was Rhiannon’s (editor and creative director) right hand girl. I sussed out some sweet scents for Le Snuff, assisted on the Fatale Instinct, Lolita Lights Camera Blossom and Mistress of Mystery shoots. I also scouted some pretty babes on the streets for Sydney Street Style and assembled the trends for Runway Trends n Transit. What are you currently listening too? Sia, The Shins, Grinderman, Girl Talk & my friend Lizzy Cross. What is your favourite movie of all time? Way too tough! So many to name so I’m going to squeeze five in: Pulp Fiction, Enemy of the State, Forgetting Sarah Marshall, Breakfast at Tiffanys & Chopper If you could inherit the wardrobe of one person dead or alive who would it be? Chloe Sevigny. In couture or cute shorts and geek glasses, she always looks amazing! What is your favourite part of this issue of Le magazine? The Linda Jackson shoot! Beautiful silhouettes, colours & prints.
8
Writer What did you contribute to this issue of Le Magazine? I wrote Le Muse about Mata Hari, Le Photography about Hamish Ta Me and Le Location about the Ampersands Café where we shot Lolita-Lights, Camera, Blossom. I also wrote for the Le culture section. What was the last book you read? The Family Law, by Benjamin Law - I couldn't stop giggling! Favourite movie of all time? Fantastic Mr Fox. Food you can never resist? Endamame (boiled Japanese soy beans)
| Le Magazine Lovers |
Monique Friedlander
Song that never fails to get you up on your feet and dancing? Jungle Drum by Emiliana Torrini
Keith Archer
Hairdresser and Owner, Strobe Hair What did you contribute to this issue of Le Magazine? Hair styling on the beauty editorial, Gilded Reflections, Pixie-Lated and Fatale Instinct. What is your favourite thing about being a hairdresser? That I still love it and always will. What inspires you when you are creating a look? The client, a picture attitude and style, a movie, lots of different things. What is your top tip for healthy hair? A very boring regular trim can ensure you stay on the right track What hair trend are you loving at the moment? That texture and movement are back but in a very uncontrived way, which makes it easy to get runway looks every day.
Katie Pashley Photographer What did you contribute to this issue of Le magazine? Punctuation and pictures When you're not behind the camera you're most likely to be found? Eating plastic combs What makes a great fashion image? A good coffee What is currently inspiring you? A dead fly stuck to the bottom of my handbag Where will we find you this summer? You won't
9
The Marriag Femme and the M Words Rhiannon Bulley | Photography James Broadhurst
Provoca
10
Fearless Modest Mistress
ge of the
ation is the new semblance of asserted prowess and purity is its new partner in crime.
S
ince the day when Eve first donned a fig leaf to cover her feminine assets, fashion has been at a parallel with both the assertion and suppression of sexuality. The infamous corset nipped in the waist and propelled buxom bosoms, crinolines extended a women’s hips, push up bras were all about being top heavy and those waist cinching underwear elongated like there was no tomorrow. These items are the modern wardrobes new power players. Today fashion is more adventurously sensual than ever. It’s as if someone has flicked a switch on inhibition and we are revelling in our newfound freedom. Instead of burning their bras women are flaunting them. Underwear as outerwear is no newby on the catwalk or the street but it has never been so blatantly bold before. Fetish is the new fantasy and it has us all fixated. Latex not only fails to raise an eyebrow these days, it has made friends with high fashion. A cone bra under a dress alludes to a sense of empowerment and those waist cinching underwear have become the new style of shorts to be worn out in broad daylight. Gasps of shock horror are now gasps of admiration. The braver the outfit the bolder the woman. Garments are skilfully sliced and layered to reveal obscure hints of skin, that entice and hypnotise when a women moves. Translucent has been replaced by fluid transparency and opaque has never looked so oblique. This is the grounding force behind all this boisterous dressing, the combination of clean minimalist layering.
Angular points and linear panelling make for directional fashion that is as purposeful as it is pure. The secret to mastering the mix of both of sides of these multifaceted fashions lies in the mystery of the iconic femme fatale. Since the beginning of time the term femme fatale has been used to describe a woman who is empowered by her sensuality, who knows how to use it as a weapon of distraction and even complete destruction. She is captivatingly dangerous yet often she has been known to hide behind a mask of modesty, alluding to the mystery beneath. She is a woman who knows how to make an impact with her appearance. We all have her in us and now is the time to set her free. Wear your power suit with a playful pair of stockings, wrap your body and adorn your shoulders, let your midriff smile at the sunshine and your bra peek out from underneath in one place or another. Let your shoes do the talking not just the walking. Be sharp and angular and apply a healthy dose of purposeful embellishment to distract and defy. Fashion is not setting the boundaries anymore, the femme on the street is, so set your boundaries now. How bold do you want to be? Where it on the inside, where it on the outside, where it in between, but wherever you wear it make sure you wear it with the three prescient P’s that are guiding fashion today passion, provocation and purpose.
11
LeMoodboards
Don’t follow the trends, follow your mood. Here is a snap shot of what was on the Le Magazine moodboard for the summer 2010 Femme Fatale. Compiled by Natalia Mimo | Illustrations Catilin Shearer
Who is she?
ZU shoes
Rock Sportif She wears a denim jacket with soaring high heels and totes a vibrant sports bag on her arm. She finishes her outfit with a silk neck scarf, silver accessories and sweatbands on her wrists.
Topshop bralet
Dulxe ring Le Black Book half palm gloves Topshop denim shirt Rock Chic She wears her lingerie on the outside, fastens a garter around her thigh and anchors chunky ankle boots to her feet, with coloured sports socks peaking out the top. She wears black lace and leather accessories. Her denim bag hangs limply from her leather clad fingerless gloves. Windsor Smith clog in white Peak ring
12
Le Double Denim Entendre
| Le Moodboards |
Le black Book seam Tights
le Black Book heart suspendor stockings Le Black Book heart stockings
Minty meets Munt Corset
Piomo shoes
She wears high waisted black shorts a black corset with costume pearls, dripping from her neck. Her heels are soaringly high and sleek while her bag is a contrastingly big black patent leather number.
Sass & Bide Leather skirt
Petshop waist corset from Olive Shoppeskirt Lipstick shoes
The night-time calls and she dons a little black dress, an oversized black blazer that hangs loosely from her shoulders. Her heels are in the same soaring spirit with leather and black stoned cuffs or lace and feather embellished accessories and one large ring.
Le Stock ‘n’ Load
13
Edited by Foxit Reader Copyright(C) by Foxit Corporation,2005-2010 For Evaluation Only. Banta Bedroom She wears achingly high heels with ankle socks peeping out underneath. Their lace frill tickles the legs of all those who get close enough. She wears a long flowing cardigan in contrast to her figure hugging dress.
Dluxe ring
Le Black Book double finger rings
Windsor Smith clog in white
Saint Augustine Academy top Coquette Con
Dluxe cocktail ring
14
She wears a lace top with sheer mini top layered underneath, alluding to her skin beneath. Gold accessories flirt with her nude skirt and a garter peaks out underneath. Patent ankle boots sit delicately on her feet.
Le Body Con and Bandage
Lollie Pop lustre
She wears nude high waisted shorts that may as well be underwear and bright coloured bangles all the way up her arms. She has bows in hair and on the toes of her ballet flats.
| Le Moodboards |
Edited by Foxit Reader Copyright(C) by Foxit Corporation,2005-2010 For Evaluation Only.
May Boo Peep headband
Windsor Smith clog Miss Unkon top KATZI ring KATZI shorts
Le Black Book Tulle Bow
Windsor Smith shoes
Minty Meets Munt shoes
Cutsie Coy She wears heavy wooden wedges heels, bike pants hoicked to the high waist. Big sunglasses shade her face and bold metal accessories hang from her limbs and ears. Knee high socks race up to meet her shorts and a silk scarf is wrapped around her head. She carries a drawstring bag loosely over her shoulder with a cute metal key chain hanging from its strap.
Le Crop ‘n’ Pop
15
Mata Hari: Mistress of Mystery Words by Monique Friedlander
Mata Hari was a woman of many glamorous guises, each with its own theatrical wardrobe and token list of men to compliment. During her lifetime Mata Hari was known as an Oriental Dancer, Courtesan, Circus Performer, Artist model, Costume Queen, Exhibitionist, Bohemian, Dangerous Seductress and at the end of her life a Double Agent. Mystery surrounded Mata Hari in life and in death ensuring her legacy lived on.
"Slowly, inertly, she settled to her knees, her head up always, and without the slightest change of expression on her face. For the fraction of a second it seemed she tottered there, on her knees, gazing directly at those who had taken her life. Then she fell backward, bending at the waist, with her legs doubled up beneath her..."
T
hese were the poignant words that journalist, Henry Wales, used to describe the scene of Mata Hari’s execution but there are many varied accounts of the fateful day, all of which pay tribute to Mata Hari’s myriad of alter egos. One account claims she blew a kiss to her executioners, or perhaps it was her lawyer and former lover who was present at the scene, before uttering the words, “Merci Monsieur.” Another rumour suggests she wore nothing more than a coat, flinging it open at the last minute to reveal her naked body and crying out, “Harlot yes but Traitor never,” whilst yet another unsubstantiated description speaks of an Amazonian tailored suit and white gloves, commissioned specially for the day. One thing is for sure, however Mata Hari went out she went out in style. Mata Hari was born in the Netherlands in 1876 under the name Margaretha Geertruida Zelle. When her mother died; Marta went to live 16
with her godfather and studied to become a kindergarten teacher. This simple dream did not last though, Marta’s talents for seduction quickly emerged when the head master fell madly in love with her. By the age of eighteen Marta had become infatuated by older men. She promptly answered the newspaper advertisement of a Dutch army officer, Rudolf John MacLeod and ended up married and in Indonesia. Disenchanted with the realties of married life, Marta threw herself into Indonesian culture, in particular dance. It was here that the name and the persona of the exotic performer Mata Hari first came to light. In 1903 Marta moved again, this time chasing the glitz of Paris. She began working in the amorous city as an artist’s model and circus performer, under yet another name, Lady Macleod. Marta began to realize that her beauty held a great deal of power and she returned to Indonesian dance, beginning her career as a famed exotic dancer under her Indonesian name, Mata Hari. She became one of the first European dancers of the Orient and to this day she is recognised as the driving force behind the oriental dance movement that seduced a generation and continues to captivate today. Her exotic costumes and hypnotising dance
| Le Muse |
Mata Hari close up
”
She wore nothing more than a coat, flinging it open at the last minute to reveal her naked body and crying out, ‘Harlot yes but Traitor never’
”
17
| Le Muse |
movements had the alluring ability to entice almost any Parisian man into a lustful stupor. The most celebrated segment of her provocative performance was when she proceeded to shed veils one by one from her body until she wore nothing more than an elaborately jewelled bra, her signature jewelled horn and some ostentatious arm adornments. It was this grandiose style that she was famed for, her ornate costumes where groundbreaking in their ability to unite the worlds of cultural ornamentation and adult entertainment. She was one of the founding fashion influences behind what is widely accepted today as burlesque dressing. Off stage Marta was equally as glamorous. She loved to attend fashionable race meetings, flaunting her finest outfits. A record of one such meeting depicts her dressed in an elegant, white dress with layers of cylindrical fabric, which delicately curved inwards, extending and framing her body all at once. She loved extravagant hats and feathered headwear and was often seen out and about in opulent fur coats and playful kitten heels. Mata’s career as an exotic dancer was shrouded by mystery ensuring she remained one step ahead of the men who fell for her charms, all of whom fought ardently for her affection. She became a mistress to millionaires and was rewarded handsomely with luxuries and fame. Her sexual attraction was unrivalled, she was promiscuous by intention and the slurs of other women never deterred her. It was this fearlessness that eventually led to her demise. During WW1 she was accused of acting as a spy for Germany and in 1917 the infamous Mata Hari was convicted of espionage and was executed by firing squad. The charge was later found to be false. This was perhaps the only time in Mata’s divisive life that she was ever innocent. After Marta’s controversial execution, the mystery surrounding her continued. Her body was claimed for medical research and kept in the Museum of Anatomy in Paris, or so it was thought, but a search in 2000 revealed her remains were nowhere to be found. Mata was one woman who could not be tied down in life or death.
18
Today Marta’s life and costumes have been reinterpreted in a number of films. Greta Garbo played the role in the eponymous 1931 film parading a costume that was more modern and extravagant than Mata’s. She wore thick, sparkling veils and large, bejewelled body ornaments and Mata’s signature headpieces, which were reinterpreted using contemporary shapes. In 1964, Jeanne Moreau played Mata, in Francois Truffaut's film Agent H-21. Moreau was dressed even more revealingly wearing nothing but a sheer piece of fabric with a jewelled neckline. Dita Von Teese is scheduled to play the role in the next adaptation of the Mata Hari legend and she is rumoured to be dressed in a modern-burlesque interpretation of Mata’s genre founding costume. Like a true muse her style has been embellished to remain prescient. Thanks to women like Marta what was shocking and provocative then is no longer as shocking now, but back then the raison d’etre of Mata’s elaborate attire was to shock and to disarm. She was one of the first women to truly exercise the power of the elusive, what is shown and what is hidden and to understand the art of embellishing a woman’s mystery. It was her fearlessness in expressing her sensuality and exercising her feminine power that has liberated women today and opened us up to an exotic world of adornment. Mata Hari was undeniably one of the first women to master the art of influencing through Power Dressing.
Mata Hari
Romantic
| Le Designer Profile |
The Last N
atalia De Martin, the young lady behind Sydney based label, The Last Romantic, is exactly what the name of her label suggests, the last ever-faithful romantic. She draws inspiration from fairy tales, different cultures and alternate worlds and invigorates them with a touch of that classic charm and grace that signify timeless style. Femininity and girlish whimsy go hand in hand to create sophisticated garments with a dash of playfulness. Frills, bold shoulders and button embellishments have become a signature of the label epitomising a modern young girl who is not afraid to dream. Now what could be more romantic than that?
Little Natalia In her Wardrobe She’s a wild one frock in black and gold
Inspiration Currently it is an underwater theme reminiscent of The Little Mermaid. I often look back on my childhood for inspiration
Hear Teenage crime by Adrian Lux En Route to The luxury flying hotel -Aircruise.
In the Bookcase Five Minutes with Natalia What is your first fashion memory? Unfortunately my first fashion memory was a pair of black clogs. This was long before Karl declared they were the next must have, whilst in the barn sporting a Chanel outfit. Nonetheless as a child I just adored them. I was probably about 8 years old I insisted on wearing them even though they gave me blisters.
Currently Showing The Notebook it’s just such a beautiful story I’m a sucker, I cry every time. Plus Rachel McAdams is dressed impeccably well throughout the entire movie.
Which designers do you admire? I love how Willow is so easy to wear yet she always has such a strong creative direction behind her pieces. I also admire John Galliano for his grand fashion parades. He creates a real life show of art. If you could inherit one person’s wardrobe dead or alive who would it be? Jackie Onassis’s classic wardrobe so I can channel my elegant inner self. What never fails to make you smile? A pair of shoes always seems to make my day What are three things you can’t live without? Safety pins, my blackberry and all types of hats
Art Salvador Dali
19
Linda Jackson:
The Opal Gem of Australiana Words by Rhiannon Bulley
I love a sunburnt country, A land of sweeping plains, Of ragged mountain ranges, Of drought and flooding rains, I love her far horizons, I love her jewel sea, Her beauty and her terror -The wide brown land for me. - Dorothea MacKellar 20
I
Five years on, the same girl, now eleven years old, sits at her Singer sewing machine, surrounded by copies of National Geographic and Italian Vogue, creating more theatrical costumes, this time from fabrics she has found in vintage and antique stores. She fastens her creations proudly onto the nearest friend and begins to take snap shots of them on her mothers Box Brownie camera. Both girls are completely unaware that they are taking part in a moment that will be remembered as the beginnings of a fashion revolution. Fast forward ten years to the 1970’s and that girl is now a woman, fuelled with the same passion for colour, fantasy and clothing with a deep symbolic spirit. Her name, Linda Jackson, is now synonymous with Australian-na Fashion. Her inimitable garments are contrived from traditional tribal techniques gathered from all over the world and from the artful construction of the couture garments on Parisian runways. The two alternate influences meld together in a way that no one has ever seen before, but it is the spirit of her own vast country, Australia, that lies at the core which truly sets them apart. The stoic beauty of Australia’s landscapes, its red dry outback, its bush, bark and flowers, the oceans, reefs and beaches, are personified in softly draped, padded, cut and patched garments, covered in hand painted, dyed and stenciled motifs. Linda Jackson’s hand yields magic, melding nature’s incomparable beauty into fashionable pieces of wearable art that are as timeless and unforgettable as their inspiration. Linda Jackson has fond memories of her childhood and sights family camping holidays as one of her original influences; it was here that she discovered her first and lifelong love, the outback. Her parents, ball room dancing costumes bring back more fond child hood memories of long afternoons of dress ups, that Linda attributes her love of theatricality to. Her father, a printer, inspired her to paint and by the time she was fourteen she was selling her hand painted gift cards. But it was when Linda
| Le Artiste Profile |
t is the 1950s in a small beach side suburb, Beaumaris, just outside of Melbourne. A child sits watching Disney cartoons and mirroring their costumes in cutout paper, old stocking boxes are turned into fantastical wardrobes, fit for any princess.
Linda’s favourite
suspended her studies at Melbourne’s RMIT Fashion College and went traveling that her creative fantasies really took flight. She did not go straight to London like most people; Linda was never like most people. She went instead to Singapore, Bali, Indonesia Malaysia, Istanbul and Thailand, traveling to the most remote areas to find the most exotic things and people. It was in seeing how they fashioned themselves that her imagination began to form a structured idea of what clothing should be-symbolic works of art. Her next destination, Papua New Guinea, where she lived for a year, influenced this idea even further. She would return to Australia with an array of unique traditional techniques tucked securely under her colourful belt. Balinese batik and the intricate appliqué, patchwork and embroidery of the remote Thai hills were just a few of the customary techniques she would bring to contemporary fashion. Before returning to her beloved outback though, Linda had one more stop to make and this one, though less remote was no less inspiring. Linda lived in Paris, studying the haute couture techniques of Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga, but it was the, "artistry of draping and cutting fabric," that was the signature of the avant-garde designer Madeleine Vionnet at the time, that particularly resonated with her. In 1973, Linda finally returned to her treasured homeland to begin her revolutionary fashion journey that would walk hand in hand with the ideas of culture and the ‘significance of place’ throughout. She exhibited her first 21
”
Kimino’s were hand painted with bu traditional white cotton wedding dre adorned with oriental ornamentatio Linda and Jenny “Flaming opal follies” Fanale, goddess bride - photo William Yang
vibrant couture collection at Boynthon Gallery in Sydney. It was here that she met her creative kindred spirit, Jenny Kee and together they set out on yet another journey that would become one of the most unforgettable in Australian fashion history. By the following year the dynamic duo had opened their iconic boutique Flamingo Park in Sydney’s Strand Arcade and presented their first Australiana inspired couture collection, "Step into Paradise,” to raptures of awe-inspired praise. The next three years continued in the same colourful fashion, with the pair developing their own entirely unique textiles and with them an incomparable style. Linda crafted garments using the traditional Bali Batik technique alongside fabrics that had been died stencilled and screen-printed in fluorescent pigments and metallic’s and always it was the Australian landscape that she turned to for inspiration. In 1977, Linda and Jenny’s art was formally recognised, receiving the Innovators Award at the Fashion Industry of Australia's Lyrebird Awards, the first of many renowned awards that Linda would receive throughout her career. Later that year the pair took their 22
dramatic flower series overseas to the fashion capitals of the world. Together they not only gave Australian Fashion an international presence, they gave Australia an identity, one of extraordinary passion and unexposed splendour. The pair continued to rock the world of fashion and art, fusing tribal with modern western culture by realizing lyrical fantasies rich in the abstract symbolism of both. Kimino’s were hand painted with bush motifs and traditional white cotton wedding dresses were adorned with oriental ornamentation. Linda Jackson and Jenny Kee were at the forefront of multicultural fashion; they globalised Australian fashion, on more than just a physical level. When you ask Linda about this revolutionary time she sums it up with three very accurate F words, “fabulous, fun and fantasy.” In 1981, Linda’s second great love, within her first, emerged, the Australian opal and once again it was a love affair that would last a lifetime. “Flamingo Follies” would be the first collection of many to be tarred with its myriad of scintillating colours, it would also be her last collection with Jenny Kee. It was time for Linda to go travelling again, this time her journey didn’t take her far physically,
”
but in terms of inspiration, it took her to another world, a world that she has inhabited ever since. Linda went to Utopia Station, in Central Australia, it was here that she learned the art of indigenous textile creation. The Utopian women and the magic of their art became the centrepiece of Linda’s next fashion venture, Bush Couture, which lasted for ten years. During this time, fabrics went back and forward between Linda and the Utopian women. She visited them many times and once they visited her studio in Kings Cross, which was like a little nook of the bush in the middle of the city. It was filled with elements of the desert, red dirt, gum leaves, and aboriginal art all over the walls and windows. Linda was taking a primitive art and turning into something prescient. Linda’s modern cultural disguises, paid tribute to the undiscovered gems of the outback as well as the much-coveted gem, the opal. The opal and its magnificent rainbow of colours has inspired Linda endlessly, with her Black Opal print becoming the foundation of garments that are still instantly recognisable today. Over the decades Linda has translated the hard edges and bright colours of the opal into plumes of taffeta and tulle and flowing sheathes of silk, she even released a perfume in its name, Opalessence. Other highlights of the age of Bush Couture included, transforming three of the famous American Neiman Marcus department stores into “Bush Couture boutiques” and creating a line of iconic scarves for Oroton. In 1994 the Bush Couture age sadly came to an end, but Linda’s passion for creativity lived on, transferring into the world of interiors and fine jewellery briefly before finding its current resting place in the world of art, a world which it has always had one foot in anyway.
Today Linda Jackson still dreams in technicolour hues and lives in the spirit of discovery, her travels are not as far and wide as they used to be but they are no less influential. Linda lives in yet another beachside town, Cooya Beach in far North Queensland. She has mud flats out the front and mangroves out the back and the magnificent Daintree rainforest only a stones throw away. She spends her days doing workshops with the indigenous women in the surrounding aboriginal communities and creating her opal paintings and mud dyed cloths for new exhibitions. Her garments and paintings are still being exhibited all over Australia and are housed in the archives of some of the countries largest art museums.
| Le Artiste Profile |
ush motifs and esses were on.
For Linda being creative is “like breathing,” and she shows no signs of slowing down. She is consistently flitting from project to project, sharing her passion for this country and its people’ immigrants and indigenous alike. Linda has created a modern day dreamtime that has merged the boundaries of language and culture by translating them into a visual language that knows no discrimination, style. A square piece of fabric when painted with the colours of her enigmatic opal prints, is transformed into a vehicle of expression, wether it is worn on the head, around the waist like an obi or as a sarong style tribal skirt it embodies a mutual passion, a love of a country, one which like Linda we all share in someway. Linda Jackson is not merely a fashion icon she is a national treasure, just like the precious opal she so ardently adores. She resides in the outback, an unearthed jewel spreading her colours into the world and penetrating the heart of every person who witnesses them with the spirit of a country built on the art of dreaming, an art she has turned into a tangible reality. It’s 2010 and a full grown woman sits staring at the sun setting over her adored land, she is dressed in all the colours of the Rainbow Waratah, the sands of Uluru and the scintillating Black Opal. It is a rainbow she has painted and fashioned herself and she smiles because like the colours it reflects she knows it has no end.
23
Core of my my Country 24
All garments and scarves worn throughout by Linda Jackson Yamilla Guidez bracelet and necklace
Heart, y
Photography Katie Pashley | Styling and Creative Direction Rhiannon Bulley | Hair and Makeup Lisa Sciberras Model Marnie from Chadwicks | Fashion Assistant Viviene Gamboa With very special thanks to Linda Jackson
In Loving memory of Merilee Whish, who never saw the world in black and white and always wore her colourful sprite on her sleeves.
25
De Coco Collectables brooches Stockings worn throughout customized by stylist K2 ring
26
De Coco Collectables brooch worn in hair Sophia-Jocelyn ring Yamilla Guidez necklace
27
Yamilla Guidez necklace De Coco Collectables brooches worn on necklace
28
Things 4 U brooches
29
30
De Coco Collectables brooches K2 ring
31
32
Yamilla Guidez necklace, bracelets and ring Sophia-Jocelyn cuff
33
Megan
Words and Interview by Rhiannon Bulley
Megan Washington is the braun the brains and the beauty behind the one girl musical movement Washington. In addition to her voice, which will send shivers up and down your spine, she has a wicked sense of humour, a secret obsession with Accidently Kelly Street and Pokemon and when she isn’t chanting away her pop/rock love songs she can be found dancing, knitting or drinking Almond Tea or perhaps all three at the same time? Now that would be impressive.
M
egan Washington is a one-woman power machine not to be compared to a pop singer, girl band or a rock chick, she has invented a genre all of her own. Megan grew up in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea, a wild child who knows which tree trunk holds water, but also speaks French eloquently. She studied music for six years before being discovered by Triple J when she sang a song called, ‘I Believe you Liar,’ that kind of blew everyone away to some foreign realm of music they had never visited before. She is now the Vanda Young Song Writing Competition winner, an APRA ambassador and is about to tour the UK and US. All this and her debut album has only been out a month. Her charismatic love songs tug at the heartstrings, ignite on the dance floor, echo from underneath the shower of households everywhere and have been known to make grown men cry. She calls them 34
“Sonic Polaroid’s” a statement she claims is pretentious and yet it is not. They are indeed single moments instantaneously captured and retained for emotional fuel forever more. The music is the frame, the soaring voice is the camera and the girl in the photo is whoever you want her to be in that moment. Megan Washington is many things all of them slightly contradictory to the one that came before it, but one thing is for sure she is not the kind of girl that should be underestimated in anyway. She is the type of girl who walks down the street in couture that she definitely cannot afford with no fear and no fashion façade, just pure untainted spirit. What could be more stylish than that? Le Magazine caught up with Megan to find out what she was up to and what she would be wearing from Le Black Book’s new summer arrivals.
| Le Wishlist |
Michael Lo Sordo Quince Boy T-Shirt in black
The Last Romantic Dusty Storm Mini in white
Michael Lo Sordo Body Con Dress
My style on stage could be described as Audrey Hepburn on acid and off Stage I dress more like a nine-year old boy
”
”
May Taylor Sweetheart Tee
Five Minutes with Megan What you are currently working on? I'm partway through our album tour, enjoying a couple of days off in the balmy Brisbane sunshine. Eating raspberries that cost way too much. What have the highlights been along the way? We made friends with some bikers in Eumundi. That was quite unexpected. Also, at the all ages show in Adelaide, seeing how many of the audience had learnt the words to 'Underground', from the album, which has only been out a month. What inspires you when you are trying to write a song? For me, songwriting is a combination of memory, fantasy and therapy. Who is your all time favourite singer? Rufus Wainwright What was the last movie you saw? 'The Sting' with Robert Redford and Paul Newman. What are three things you can’t live without? A piano, lip balm and the Internet If you could inherit the wardrobe of one person who would it be? Vivian Westwood or Jarvis Cocker
Saint Augustine Academy Hellcat Shorts
35
Alexis Whelan is no ordinary fifteen-year-old girl and she is not ju extraordinary face either; she has a whole lot of life experience be Photography Tim Kindler | Words and Interview by Rhiannon Bulley
A
lexis was born in Sydney but when she was five years old what was meant to be a three-month boating holiday turned into a seven-year journey. Alexis sailed around the world with her family, attending school in Africa, Spain and by air. She speaks three languages, Spanish, Afrikaans and Xhosa, which is an African black language that is spoken with tongue clicking. Very Impressive. She has sailed the Darwin to Bali yacht race-and won and celebrated her ninth birthday with a dinner of snails, not your average nine-year-old menu of choice. Her travels encompassed many adventures from the norm, of encountering the different cultures and foods to nearly sinking off the coast of Africa. When you ask her what her favourite memory is, she struggles to pick just one, but one thing is for sure this is one childhood holiday she will never forget!
and throwing us all into fits of giggles, when she was asked to hold a camera herself and pretend to take photos, she piped up with, “oh you mean selfies!” And just like that she was a fifteen year-old girl again. ‘Lolita- Lights, Camera, Blossom’, is the story of girl blossoming into a women in charge of her own beauty and Alexis was certainly the right girl for the role.
Alexis returned to Australia just over two years ago and has since settled into a normal high school life, except she isn’t an ordinary girl, her experiences have given her an appreciation for other cultures that is beyond her years and a thirst for travel and adventure that is unquenchable.
Alexis is one young lady who is very much in touch with her world whether it’s the high school playground or a very different playground in Africa, Alexis knows how to relate to people, place and circumstance and with bone structure to boot we have no doubt Alexis has a very bright future ahead of her.
For all her worldliness though Alexis is still a typical teenage girl who loves sports, fashion, photography, playing the guitar and violin and spending time with her friends and family. She spent a Sunday afternoon with Le Magazine on set for ‘Lolita-Lights, Camera, Blossom,’ enchanting the team with her travel stories
Le Magazine asked Alexis to share some of her travel stories with us and tell us about her life back on solid ground, from modelling, to school to her dreams for the future and do they involve travel? You bet they do.
What was it like living on a boat? I had my own “cabin” which I decorated myself; I had photos of friends and family and lots of teddies! Where did you go exactly? We sailed from Sydney to the Whitsundays, across the top of Australia to Thursday Island and Cape Vessels in the Northern Territory. Then we went to Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling, Mauritius, La reunion, across the Mozambique Channel to Africa, East coast of Africa, St Helena, Ascension Island, Cape Verde (where we nearly sank!) and then finally Canary Islands were the boat is now moored. Tell us about the time when you nearly sank? Sailing from Praia in Cape Verde to Mindello, we left in the afternoon waiting for the winds to abate, at 6pm that night we broke an outlet and mum noticed that we were having a large intake of water. It was dark and the wind was about 25 knots. My brother James was trying to find where the hole was, whilst Dad and I dropped the sails and trimmed the yacht,
36
Alexis Whelan
| Le Face to Watch |
ust an ehind her too.
I was harnessed on (24/7) and steering while James, Mum and Dad all looked for the hole, James found the hole and blocked it. Dad then got the petrol pump out and we pumped the water. Dad said we were only 10 minutes off “abandoning ship�. What were some of the most memorable sights you saw? In Africa, the travelling and the wildlife that we saw in our time there, the game parks were amazing. I enjoyed the African cultures. In Africa I learnt a lot about the many races and I learnt to speak Xhosa. What was your school life like? As we travelled around I was home schooled on the yacht through Distance Education of Australia, my classroom was the biggest in the World. It extended from Sydney where my teacher was to students in the outback of Australia to me in the Indian Ocean. We communicated by mail, email and satellite phone. I came first on my recycling project on my backyard, as my backyard is the sea. I also went to school for a short period of time in Cocos Keeling, South Africa and Spain. Spain was the most difficult school, as no one there spoke English, only the 2 English teachers and my parents had to draw pictures of me, the boat and Australia to show where I had come from. Never the less, in no time I was speaking a little bit of Spanish. How do you think your journey has affected you as a person? Travelling around the world on a yacht and meeting people from different cultural backgrounds made me appreciate where I came from and I realized the importance of understanding other people and their point of view and communication. Some of the people in South Africa had nothing, no home, no food, etc. but they always looked clean and tidy, and always had a big smile across their faces. Do you have a travel bug now? Yes I do have a travel bug, I love to travel and meet new people and understand new cultures and languages and engage with new ideas. I would love an opportunity to travel with my work. What is your favourite thing about modelling? My favourite thing about modelling, would be meeting people and the opportunity to travel and being involved with fashion and the make-up! What do you want to do in your future? In the future, I would like to be a photographer or a fashion designer or a real estate agent just like my parents and I would love to travel anywhere that I can, to meet new people and explore! What is the best piece of advice you have been given or given? The best piece of advice I have ever given, was in the middle of the Indian Ocean and I told my dad to get a job. Do you have any plans for summer? My plans for the summer are to be at the beach as much as I can, and spend time with my friends whilst working, a balance.
37
LolitaLights, Camera, Blossom Her Innocent Wisdom Mesmerizes, Her Pure Sensuality is Irresistible, Her Keen Mind and Deep Green Eyes are Temptation at its Most Powerful.
Photography Tim Kindler | Styling and Creative Direction Rhiannon Bulley Hair Ashleigh Croker | Makeup Michael Haldar Model Alexis from Vivien’s Model Management Photography assistants Guilherme Jorge and Vassi Dyulgerova Fashion Assistant Rachel Mcrae With thanks to Ampersand CafÊ Bookstore.
38
39
Styling tip: You can make your own shoulder pads very easily, buy the blank shoulder pads from all good craft and sewing shops and pin your decoration of choice on. Our recommendations are Vintage Brooches and Flowers like we used here.
This page and previous page: Noir Shop for Le Black Book dress Shoulder pads Stylists own Bracelets Worn throughout Stylists own Flowers worn as bra throughout Stylists own
40
Styling tip: To make cute floral bracelets buy three different types of floral fabric and then plait then together in different combinations and simply wrap around your wrist.
May top Sabatini White shorts and cardigan
41
42
43
Disaya dress Stockings Stylists own Philadelphia Philpot Millinery hat
44
May dress Sabatini White bra and underwear worn underneath
45
Michael Lo Sordo dress Stockings Stylists own
46
Senada Theory top and skirt Philadelphia Philpot Millinery hat
47
e l a t a F tinc s n I She flirts with danger, she thrives off the thrill of the chase. She knows her own mind but makes sure no one else ever gets close enough to‌ She wears her self on the inside. Photography James Broadhurst Fashion Editor Rhiannon Bulley Hair Keith Archer for Strobe Hair Makeup Corrine Grbevski Models Eilika from Vivien's | Bartholomew The Agency | Ethan and Alex Chadwick's Fashion Assistant Rachel Mcrae With thanks to The Photostudio
48
t c
flowers For a VagbOnd dress
49
Michael Lo Sordo dress flowers For a VagabOnd spates Low Luv by Erin Wasson cuff Bartholomew and Ethan wear Saint Augustine Academy pants and Antoine and Stanley shoes throughout Alex wears Subfusco pants and Antoine and Stanley shoes throughout
50
The Last Romantic top and pants House of Fetish corset
51
flowers For a VagabOnd dress and spates Mrs. Press T-shirt worn underneath Michael Lo Sordo shorts worn underneath House of Fetish corset Michael Lo Sordo shorts Sanna shoes
52
53
Saint Augustine jumpsuit Pleasure State bodysuit worn underneath Pleasure State garter belt Noir Shop for Le Black Book stockings Love Chile shoulder pads
54
Pleasure State bra House of Fetish corest Michael Lo Sordo shorts flowers For a VagabOnd spates Michael Lo Sordo T-shirt House of Harlow 1960 necklace Sanna shoes
55
Ella Macpherson bra Pleasure State garter belt Michael Lo Sordo shorts Noir Shop for Le Black Book stockings House of Harlow 1960 cuff Low Luv by Erin Wasson cuff
56
Elle Macpherson bra Verduci Smith cardigan Noir Shop for Le Black Book stockings
57
The Secrets of
Couture Words by Rhiannon Bulley
Over the years, Haute Couture has been tagged as a dying art, dismissed as unattainable, over the top and even insignificant, but in truth it is a grossly misunderstood and underestimated art, that is not only relevant in today’s world, it is vital. Not only to those of us who love a great frock or who appreciate detailed construction, but to anyone who has ever dared to dream. In reality, it is nothing, because it does not exist in reality, it exists in its own idealised world, one that everyone deserves to visit at least once, even if only in their dreams.
A
quick google search on the words Haute Couture deliver surprisingly dry definitions of this precise art. Wikipedia describes it as, “made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from highquality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail,” whilst Fashion Era offers the phrase “a haute couture model garment is at the top level of hand customised fashion design and clothing construction made by a couture design house.” Both of these definitions correctly describe couture in its most literal purpose. The meaning does lie in the implicit detailing, the luxurious materials and the custom creation, the art, however lies within the mind that imagines it into existence.
housed in Le Arts Decoratifs, had been shown outside of Paris and the first time an exhibition of such an enormity had been shown in Australia. It represented enormity in detail, in luxury, in art and in social history. It adequately personified the enormous spirit of the women who have championed and inspired the art of Valentino’s couture throughout his career. GOMA’s senior curator, Miranda Wallace, described the exhibition as, “a room of one hundred women dressed for the Oscars.” Her description reveals the first underlying secret in the art of couture. The secret that holds the structural details, the decorative motifs, delicate
On August 6th media from all over Australia packed out the foyer of The Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA), in Queensland, to witness the work of one such mastermind, they were all there for the unveiling of the Valentino Retrospective. It was a day of firsts. The first time the Valentino Retrospective, curated by Pamela Goldin and 58
Various Valentino detail shots
Valentino Clemente Ludovico has possessed this ability since he was born and has practised it in all its splendour for the past fifty years, dressing hundreds of women in dresses that are as unforgettable as their wearer and the occasion they are made for combined. Couturiers are armed with the rare ability to look at a person and not only understand their needs in a garment but their deepest desires in life. They do not see a woman as she is but as she desires to be and their ability to transform a woman into her ideal self is beyond the miracles of the science of psychology, medicine; traditional and non traditional, and cosmetics and pharmaceuticals combined, it is pure undeniable magic. It is an adult’s answer to the fairytale world of children. Here in lies the second secret of couture, the ability to trade on people’s dreams. Ready to wear fashion trades on peoples current pulsating desires, it hones in on a longing for a certain look, lifestyle and attitude at a particular time. Haute Couture however, is peoples lifelong dreams plucked from depths so deep in their imagination they sometimes never even knew they were there, until they were revealed as panels constructed of thousands of tiny beads and sequins, hand-painted silks and sheaths of linear pleating and voluminous pluming and just like that, a dream is a realized.
“
stitching and ostentatious embellishments all together, is the art of understanding the woman who is wearing it and turning her insides out. It is the art of dressing a woman for her dreams.
| Le Feature |
“
It is the art of dressing a woman for her dreams.
Couture is the elusive dream of a life lived completely without physical or metaphysical limitation. Miranda describes it as, “the most uninhibited area of fashion,” which was her reasoning for selecting only couture dresses, bar one, for the one hundred Valentino dresses to be displayed in Brisbane. Valentino’s ready to wear is exquisite, there is no question about that, but there is no measuring up to the fantasy of a couture gown and it is that fantasy that the world so desperately craves. The one hundred couture dresses were neatly organized via the recurring motifs of Valentino. Islands of mannequins were dressed in graphic animal inspired prints, which were cleverly constructed to enhance the natural lines of the female silhouette and floral embellishments in every size, technique and colour under the sun. Whilst other clusters paid tribute to Valentino’s ingenious manipulation of geometry, pleats and frills; which all refine the silhouette anchoring
Left: Valentino Cocktail dress Haute Couture SS1960 Right: Valentino Cocktail dress Haute Couture SS1959
59
Valentino Evening gown Haute Couture SS1993
the garments sense of weightlessness in a fortified linear foundation and his effortless gowns created from the perfect balance of volume and structure ensuring a proportionate silhouette with a fluid sense of movement. Finally there was the islands of colour; red, black and white all of which have played a significant role in cementing the dramatic character of Valentino’s dresses. The majority of the dresses on show practised varied techniques, which fell into each of these categories in someway, ensuring coherence not only within single collections, but throughout Valentino’s entire body of work. The techniques and motifs subtly evolved and changed with the decades ensuring recognisability and relevance. Miranda sights her favourite example of this as, “the 1970’s when his designs took on the current caftan style but maintained the glamorous sophistication of the Valentino house.” This
Valentino Evening ensemble Haute Couture AW 1990–91
“ 60
Valentino Evening gown Haute Couture AW07/08
Couture is the elusive dream o without physical or metaphysi
Left: Valentino Evening gown Haute Couture AW1992-93, Right: Valentino Evening gown Haute Couture AW 2005–06
| Le Feature |
reveals the third underlying secret of couture; the ability to rationalise what is socially relevant at any particular period in time by removing it from its literal presence and placing it in a separate realm of stoic beauty and flighted fantasy. Valentino is one of a very select few who are considered to have perfected the art of couture; Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani, John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci and the more avante garde; Jean Paul Gaultier and Martin Margeila, are the other modern masters and each brings his own unique overarching perception of beauty that is armed with a new flight of imagination every season. Valentino’s beauty is best described as statuesque and alluring. “His whole body of work is saturated with this idolised notion of femininity,” Miranda says. He captures the elusive elements that render a woman unforgettable in a single moment and tweaks them to ensure she forever remains that way. He translates the complexity of a woman’s beauty into a garment that equals it in its intricacy yet simplifies it in its over all appearance. The complete work of art is when each tiny piece that makes up the inner and outer workings of a woman’s beauty is unified. Journeying through the one hundred garments that have each been yielded by the hand of a master to serve this exact purpose reveals the true definition of Couture. Couture is the practice of mental science, understanding the inner workings of the human mind and manifesting them outward into one harmonized reflection of beauty. It is the business of constructing dreams deemed impossible, over indulgent or mere fantasy. It is the ability to record what is relevant at any one time in a manner that is timeless, but above all and perhaps this is its greatest secret of all, it can not be tied to one definition because it knows no boundaries, it acknowledges no limitations and it bows to no impossibility.
Julia Roberts wearing Valentino Evening gown Haute Couture AW 1992-93
It is the art of endless possibility.
of a life lived completely ical limitation.
“
61
Mistress
Mystery Oriental Dancer, Exhibitionist, Courtesan, Circus Performer, Artist model, Exotic Entertainer, Dangerous Seductress. Double Agent. Apparition? Photography Hamish Ta Me | Fashion Editor Rhiannon Bulley Hair and Make up Simona Janek | Model Emily Kiely at EMG Models Retouching Gina Hernandez www.leafnline.com | Fashion Assistant Rachel Mcrae
62
OF
"...Slowly, inertly, she settled to her knees, her head up always, and without the slightest change of expression on her face. For the fraction of a second it seemed she tottered there, on her knees, gazing directly at those who had taken her life. Then she fell backward, bending at the waist, with her legs doubled up beneath her...� Henry Wales Snog the Frog Headpiece
63
The Last Romantic Dress Snog the Frog pants, necklace, headpeice and gloves Stockings worn throughout Stylists Own Shoes worn throughout Models Own
64
flowers For a VagabOnd jacket DimzitySo Bra worn underneath Snog the Frog knickerbockers, necklace, gloves, mask and ring
65
flowers For a VagabOnd dress Snog the Frog mask Sretsis necklace
66
The Last Romantic dress Ella Macpherson bra worn underneath Snog the Frog tutu, headpiece, gloves and necklace
67
flowers For a VagabOnd dress Snog the Frog pants, headpiece, gloves and necklace
68
The Last Romantic dress Snog the Frog headpiece and necklace
69
The Last Romantic dress Snog the Frog tutu, mask and necklace Gloves Stylists Own
70
flowers For a VagabOnd dress Snog the Frog mask, both pairs of gloves and ring Sretsis necklace
71
Runway Trend Compiled by Rachel Mcrae | Words by Rhiannon Bulley
T
he international SS11 runways were all about bodycon and latex contrasted with soft draping. High waists were rampant worn with cropped tops or a t-shirt and blazer whilst colour blocking was all the rage.
And lets not forget the good old onsie, the latest versions of the ever playful playsuit are smart rock and roll. We’ve got all the wardrobe staples to complete these looks for you right here, right now.
Le Black Book Michael Lo Sordo Bodycon Dress
SS11 Herve Leger by Max Azria
Bodycon
Le Black Book Natalie Chapman Three Panel Singlet Dress SS11 Versace
SS11 J Mendal
72
Softly Draped and Subtly Folded The Greek goddesses had it down to a fine art and so did J. Mendel for his SS11 collection. Soft drapes and folds in all right the places makes for a flawless silhouette that drips with feminine glamour. Keep your accessories simple, a subtle pair of heels and a touch of silver or gold is all you need.
SS11 J Mendal
Le Black Book Michael Lo Sordo Bambi Dress also available as a skirt
Herve Leger’s collection by Max Azria for SS11 turned out monochrome linear panelling that wrapped and twisted the body, flattering and extending whilst Versace presented more subtly seamed numbers in bolder hues. This trend is seductively nonchalant. Pair it back with a pair of chunky wedges or boldly embellished heels by day or sex it up for night-time dance floor rendezvous with a pair of super high peep toe stilettos in patent.
Le Black Book Michael Lo Sordo Morning Time Ink Print Drape Skirt
| Le Feature |
ds in Transit Colour Blocking Colour Blocking might seem easy but there is a talent to making every shade fit just right. Peter Pilotto’s SS11 collection featured colour blocking in layers and panels of vibrant blues and monotones. The vibrant hues make a strong statement for summer and panelling carves the silhouette into a strong sculptural form. Keep this look simple; statement sandals and cuffs are a nice compliment especially if you can get the cuffs to match!
SS11 Peter Piletto Le Black Book Natalie Chapman Three Panel Halter Maxi Dress
High Waisted Lady High waists have been the silhouettes to swoon over for the last few seasons now and they show no signs of going anywhere very fast. Shorts are best worn high and short, bare your midriff for a more casual daytime look and pair it back with a blazer and casual top for a smarter shortie short look. Belts are a nice touch and colours and prints with neutral toned shorts are very refreshing.
Le Blackbook Michael Lo Sordo B-Boy Shorts
SS11 Jill Stuart
SS11 House of Holand
Le Blackbook Saint Augustine Academy Denim Shorts
The New Smarter Onsie Designers have been putting the suit back in playsuit. The new playsuits to hit the runways are smart and a little bit edgy but without losing their sex appeal. Low cut necks and zip fronts are the sultry features of this younger smarter generation. Put it back with edgy, bold accessories that add an extra touch of fearlessness to this powerchick look.
SS11 Derek Lam
Le Blackbook Saint Augustine Academy Jumpsuit
73
Poppy de
Villeneuve www.poppydevilleneuve.com Words and Interview by Rhiannon Bulley
Poppy de Villeneuve is a one-woman visual production company, working across still photography and film. Her work has been compared to that of the famed David Lynch, her ability to capture unseen character and spirit at its purist and most unusual is uncanny.
P
oppy De Villeneuve has been featured in every major publication under the sun from British Vogue and W magazine to The Guardian weekend magazine and NY’ times T Magazine. She has shown in-group shows across America and Europe including in the “Music Loves You,” exhibition in the fashion and art destination, Colette Paris. Last year she travelled to 40 cities in America in 13 days photographing real people wearing Wellensteyn coats for their advertising campaign. Her recent move into film has seen her career sour to even higher visual heights creating two films for LVMH’s cultural website Nowness. The first featured the Rambert dance company at Sadlers Wells and centred on the concept of Charles Darwin's birth. Her second film, “How 74
you look at it,” was a poignant film about a chance love that knows no boundaries, it starred the Chinese model Liu Wenn and was filmed in an art deco pool in New York City. Poppy’s work is part documentary part art that captures life in a way that is honest and personal. It feels like it belongs to each of us in someway. Her work has taken her across countries, into high security prisons and the contrasting freedom of music festivals. Like the subjects it so perfectly captures it knows no boundaries’. The world through Poppy’s lens takes even the most mundane things and makes them somehow extraordinary. Le Magazine caught up with Poppy to find out more about her art, her style and what she loved at Le Black Book.
It’s hard to describe ones own work being so close to it, but I would describe it as grounded, still, explorative. I would hope elegant. What inspires you? Honesty and Integrity. A sense of play. Interiors. History. Darwin.
| Le Wishlist |
How would you describe your work?
Is there anything in your past that you can pinpoint has having inspired your work? Going to Ohio to visit my mother’s family, the change between the countryside in West Sussex and middle America shaped my understanding of how different we all are, which is important in my work. Are there any recurring themes in your work? Love is a recurring theme. The search for ourselves is another. I’m fascinated by our understanding or misunderstanding of our sense of self and how that evolves as we have more information. What was it like doing the Wellensteyn project can you tell me about the places you went? We went to Oregon, Washington, New York, Virginia, Colorado, Montana….to name a few of the states. It was probably rather insane, but we survived! Just. The producer wanted to find the people by stumbling across them in the various cities (in a jeep with the Wellensteyn label) we would give them the coat and interview them, they would let me photograph them in exchange. It was wonderful, we found fisherman on the coast of Portland and waitresses in Virginia. My favourite kind of job. What has been your favourite art project to date? Photographing at Angola, the largest maximum-security prison in America, meeting the inmates there created so much confusion in me, it made me ask many questions. Good and evil is so complex; the project was just a starting point. I’m also doing an ongoing project titled ‘You Are Everywhere’ showing people at music festivals, this is a complete pleasure to shoot. People are euphoric in the environment and I have a huge respect for musicians. What inspired your most recent film ‘How you look at it.’ I found an art deco swimming pool and a friend of mine had a stranger come up to him and say: ‘I had an amazing time, I know you had an amazing time. But neither of us remembers it.’ Then I met the model Liu Wen, who speaks Mandarin, which sounds so beautiful. The pieces just fit. What do you like to do outside of photography and film? Spend time in the countryside with the people I love. Watch movies. Walk. Read. Nest. Your work involves a lot of great fashion, do you have any favourite labels of your own? I love Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Charlotte Olympia, Filson, Anya Hindmarch, Proenza Schouler, Double RL. What would you say to anyone out there who is aspiring to be a photographer/film maker? Someone once said to me: “life is a spiral”, it is accumulative. You have to just keep going and have a clear point of view.
Saint Augustine Accademy Screaming Tribesmen Dress
Michael Lo Sordo High Street B boy Shorts
Michael Lo Sordo Morning Time Ink Print Dress
“
“
Style to me is about being classic. About being yourself, rather than following something for the sake of it. Michael Lo Sordo Quince Boy T Shirt
75
| Designer Profile |
May Little Georgia
G
eorgia Phillis started her label, May, in 2009. After working in sales for other labels for years, she found that she was having trouble finding the statement wardrobe staples she was looking for. It was out of this desperation that May was born and since that day the Melbourne based label has been dedicated to delivering on trend classics with a refreshing flourish of femininity. Bows and ruffles flirt shamelessly on minimalist garments where the detail is in the subtle, intricate construction. Scalloped shoulders and hemmes are a favourite with designer Georgia. A predominantly neutral and monochrome colour palate and soft crepes, jerseys and cottons finish the air of simplicity that accompanies every May garment. May is modern, polished refinement at accessible prices. A true breath of fresh air
En Route Too Paris, obvious choice as it is, Paris is the most amazing and surreal city. I want to revisit luxe style as last time I was there I was backpacking with my boyfriend.
Inspiration For spring summer I’m really loving easy fresh pieces that make you feel good when you are wearing them.
In her Space See - Organised chaos. I have outgrown my space.
In her Wardrobe Paige Zip Back Dress Currently Showing Anything with Leonardo, he’s my fave.
Hear Tame Impala – I have not been able to stop listening to their new album Inner Speaker. Cut Copy – any of the albums are perfect while you work. Sarah Blasko.
Five Minutes with Georgia What is your first fashion memory? My mum in the 80s. There was this one outfit in particular that I loved; it was a full skirt to the knee with a matching top that had huge chiffon sleeves. Super cool at the time and I thought she was so pretty in it. Which designers do you admire? I love Rag & Bone at the moment, it’s totally my style - I love the way every garment looks comfortable and cool. In the Bookcase I just finished reading this weeks Grazia.
What never fails to make you smile? My dogs, Scarlett the Bassett Hound and Henry the English Staffy. If you had to describe yourself in three words you are? Motivated, Honest, Homebody
Muse of the moment Chloe Sevigny
76
What is your mantra for life? Try to enjoy your work it’s what we spend a lot of our time doing.
Pixielated
On ce Upon a time ‌
She sees the world in a haze of colour, through tinted lenses with bold frames. What lies inside and what lies before her are defined by the image that her brain projects through thick lenses into the world and back again. How much of what we see is real and how much is a glass wall we put up between us and the world?
Photography James Broadhurst | Styling and Creative Direction Rhiannon Bulley Model Ruby from The Agency | Hair Keith Archer Strobe Hair | Make Up Corrine Grbevski Bra worn throughout by Elle Macpherson
78
From Left to right Retrosuperfuture Sunglasses from Glue Ralph Lauren Sunglasses from Sunglasses Hut Retrosuperfuture sunglasses from Glue
She refuses to hide her colourful eyes to see the world in censored lies. Her mind is as piercing as her blue eyes before the sun hits her with its glary glint causing her to wrinkle her nose and squint 79
Left to right Stylists own sunglasses Prada sunglasses from Sunglasses Hut Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses from Sunglasses Hut Retrosuperfuture sunglasses from Glue
She deflects the sunlight from her eyes reflecting it back up into the skies. She thinks her solar hat has outsmarted the sun but soon it creeps round and her colourful eyes start to run. 80
From Top to Bottom Ray-Ban blue print Wayfarer Ray-Ban red stripe Wayfarer Retrosuperfuture Sunglasses from Glue
Finally she admits defeat and cries if I have to shade my colourful eyes I’ll wear frames of colour and print so my true colours still show with out your glary glint! 81
| Le Beaute |
Gilded Reflections Golden Glamour and Guilty Consciences
Photography James Broadhurst | Creative Direction Rhiannon Bulley | Hair Strobe Hair | Make-up Corrine Grbevski Models Isabella, Ashley, Stephanie from The Agency and Ash from EMG Models Bra worn throughout by Elle Macpherson
83
84
| Le Beaute |
85
86
Words by Keith Archer from Strobe Hair
| Le Beaute |
1950’s to Now
The 1950’s has been all over the runways from the return of the full skirt and the button up blouse to polished dresses and floral prints. Prim, Pretty and Proper are the three P words on everyone’s lips right now. Keep your hair as tidy as your appearance with sculpted curls and polished updo’s, add a flourish of floral decoration to complete the 1950’s femme look. The fifties inspired look can be done quick and simple. The larger the section you’re working on the easier it will be. Make sure you apply a styling aid to the hair before it is completely dry. Then apply a small amount of hairspray before you put each section into the roller. Start by dividing hair in to two sections from ear to ear, giving you two large sections front and back. Place four large heated rollers in the back section (the larger the section the softer the curl) Now working on the front divide hair in to three sub sections, from temple to crown. One large roller placed on each side of the head, then two on the top. The more rollers you put in the more curl you’re going to get. Working from the back, as each roller is taken out, backcomb the root, apply hairspray twist the hair and secure with a bobby pin. Repeat this on all four sections at the back and on the top For those with strong jaw lines the fuller the hair around the back hair line the softer the profile The side sections can be geld or sprayed back depending on the look you’re going for, the tighter you pull back the stronger the look. Avoid too much fullness around the sides Remember with this sort of look there are no rules just what looks good is good. Have fun and play.
Eye Spy
Words by Corrine Grbevski As they say, ‘the eyes are the windows to the soul.’ With the right makeup application you can express so much through these windows. A smoky eye screams domination. Where as soft lavender and musk tones are subtle and feminine. Next time you're looking in the mirror, think about this... From Lips to Lids The Foundations Keep your foundation light and fresh. If you're prone to a little shine, powder lightly down the t-zone. Gold illuminiser blended into the temples, will give your skin a summer glow. Brow Now Brows are in! Keep them strong and bold, like they did in the 80's. Always make sure you use the right coloured pencil for this. We used Shu Uemera's brow pencil in seal brown. Open the Windows to the Soul Apply Shu Uemura cream eyeshadow in M Yellow all over the lid, working up and just over the socket line. Press in yellow eye shadow powder to set. Take an eyeliner brush and apply Shu Uemura paint liner in pink as you would liquid liner. Drag along the lash line building to the desired thickness. To increase definition and add a little drama, apply lashings of mascara to finish the look. Don’t Give me Lip Girl Keeping in trend with this fresh theme, choose a neutral colour for your lips. We used Lancome Juicy Tubes in Melon.
87
Designs by Danelle Barr for CND
(Creative Nail Design)
Nail it
Images courtesy of Pacific Nail & Beauty for CND.
Every inch of the body is a blank canvas waiting to be decorated. CND created six one off nail designs for Le Magazine to show us how to make our nails speak as loud as the rest of our personality. Chrome Adornment
When creating a nail art design for an event, look for shapes, patterns & textures in your outfit for inspiration.
CND Silver Chrome CND Blackjack Embellished with black acrylic 3D flowers and rhinestones All additional materials used throughout available from Craft Stores.
Midnight Jewel CND Blackjack CND Sapphire Sparkle  Embellished with various sized rhinestones
Nail length will also impact on nail art design. For short nails, go with a more simple design like small rhinestones set in around the cuticle line or down the sidewall. Longer nails can afford to go a little bolder with larger and busier embellishments.
Vintage Glamour  CND Gold Chrome
Embellished with white lace, mini pearl beads and cream ribbon
88
CND Raspberry Parfait Embellished with pink rhinestones and pink ribbon
Instead of embellishing every nail, choose one or two nails to feature a bold design and keep the others painted with one colour
| Le Beaute |
Pink Vovo
Twisted Spectrum From Left to right CND Anchor Blue CND Electric Orange CND Green Scene CND Blackjack CND Raspberry Parfait CND Bicycle Yellow CND Fireberry
Emu Sunset CND Tropic Coral  Embellished with feather
89
| Le Beaute |
Handled with Care
Background Illustration by Caitlin Shearer Images courtesy of Pacific Nail & Beauty for CND.
Don’t hide your nails in shame, let them shine. CND shares the must have items for neat, nice, noteworthy nails this summer.
Essential summer nail care products
Stickey Base Coat
Solar Oil
Super Shiney
Summers Top Three Colours
90
CND Putty – As seen at five Fashion Week shows in 2010 – Jayson Brunsdon, Gail Sorronda, Sara Phillips, Therese Rawsthorne & Seventh Wonderland.
CND Guava
CND Silver Chrome
| Le Snuff |
Illustrations by Caitlin Shearer | Compiled by Rachel Mcrae | Words by Rhiannon Bulley
S
ummer brings with it an array of scents, fresh flowers and bittersweet citrus; which seemingly float on the rays of sunshine that penetrate them at the roots and then come the balmy heavier scents that arise when the sun goes down and summer romance begins. Like bare skin being exposed to the gentle warmth of the summer sun, alluring scents explode into the air reeking with sensuality. What begins as intrigue ends in an unforgettable presence that provokes nostalgia within everyone it has touched every time the scent of summer thrives again. Make this summer the most memorable one yet. Bulgari | Blu Notte She emerges after dark shrouded in a bittersweet mist of dark chocolate with oriental wafts of galanga empowering her allure and the rainbow of scents that mingle in a field of blooming Irises tying her together at her core. Her scent is weighted with assertion and accompanied by a deep sense of mystery. She is seduction at its most blatant, poise at it’s most powerful and playful at its most intriguing.
MAHARANIH | NicolaĂŻ From left to right: Bois Rouge, Flowerbomb, Blu Notte, Maharanih
With the magnetism of an Aperitif at the end of the day she weaves her way from morning to night in a heady cloud of patacouly and sandalwood with the piercing zest of an orange, the softness of roses and carnations and the warmth of cinnamon. She is a woman who knows her own mind, who always stands out in a crowd but never has to make any effort to. She is a subtle beauty with a deep underlying strength.
BOIS ROUGE | Tom Ford: Private Blend
Flowerbomb | Viktor & Rolf
She is a hypnotic melody composed of varied notes of classic beauty, she walks with an air of assurance born from the eclectic combination of the natural scents of; Cedarwood, Patchouli, Jasmine, Maguet, Sandalwood, Vetiver and Amber and the exotic aroma of citrus and spice. Tones of modern luxury are infused by the unforgettable scent of refined leather conveying her sense of wisdom and worldliness. Like a couture dress her beauty lies in the details, the subtle underpinning notes that link together to create an unforgettably sublime exterior.
She inspires dreams and propels fantasies wherever she goes, aloof yet attainable, free yet aware. Her scent evokes the myriad of colours of every dimension of a bouquet of flowers, from the base notes of the orange tree to the overwhelming beauty of the rose and orchids blooming in the centre. She reaps beauty in every heart no matter what their taste desires. She sparkles everywhere she goes but her sparkle is refined and deliberate. She is a woman on a mission whose effervescent spirit will ensure that dreams become a timeless reality wherever she is present.
91
Celeb-rating the Organic Revolution
Words By Scarlett Keddie
The power of celebrity to influence has been rampant since the reign of the original supermodels and the first time an actress appeared on the front cover of Vogue instead. We thrive off knowing their secrets to success, style, fitness, life balance and beauty. Secrets that celebrities, from the model and the actress to the fashion designer, are now freely revealing all in the name of the environment.
W
ell not quite-freely- you are expected to pay for the product of course, but the promises of glowing beauty like Gisele Bundachen and youthful allure like Miranda Kerr’s are sure to make these products the most priceless secrets in the beauty industry. And it seems an essential element of that secret is being part of the organic and environmental revolution. Organically sustainable, eco friendly products are all the rage. Everyone's talking about it and being the action heroines that they are a few celebs are getting out there and doing it. The aforementioned two are leading the way, but other celebrities are also proudly tagging their faces alongside organic beauty products. The music industry, the fashion industry, Hollywood they are all in on it. Celebrities are using their position to set a good example and what better way to make a real impact than to trade on the most sought after asset in the world, beauty, something celebrities are generally associated with having an abundance of. There is actually an entire page on the online store GreenOrganics.com.au dedicated to which natural skin care products celebrities are using and the fact that they lay claim to being the number one, “Organic Beauty Store in Australia,” means clearly this celebrity product drive must be working. And sure enough as you scroll down everyone who is anyone is there
92
linked to some organic beauty and hair regime. Even Tom Hanks is a fan! Sarah Jessica Parker treats her golden locks with John Masters Organics and frequents his, ‘clean air,’ wind powered salon in New York. Teen queen all grown up, Hilary Duff, powders her nose with Nvey Eco Makeup. The toxinfree lipstick is so natural it’s actually edible. It contains palliative organic materials beeswax, castor oil, vitamin E and safflower. Yum. Is it any wonder Gwyneth Paltrow is organicfriendly with children named Apple and Moses? The yummy mummy douses her body in Pangea Organics Ecocentric Bodycare, which guarantees it supports everything from sustainable agriculture to fair-trading and living wages to that drooping skin around your eyes. The creme de la creme of runway beauty are getting in on the ‘natural beauty’ act too. Models, Erin O'Connor, Helena Christensen, Brooke Shields and Sophie Ward, are avid patrons of Weleda 'From Plants to Products'. The plants are processed immediately after they're harvested to ensure freshness and preservation. With the product going through a rigorous process in order to meet the standards of the European Union Guidelines for Good Manufacturing Practice. Who needs botox? This new sustainable beauty is in such high demand, it doesn’t come as much of a surprise that some celebrities have gone that one step
| Le Lifestyle |
further than their fellow eco-endorsing high rollers, and created their own lines of organic beauty products. After all, if they use it, you can guarantee the masses won’t be far behind Miranda Kerr's skincare range, KORA Organics, is increasingly popular and used by fellow celebs, like Jess Hart. Ingredients include antioxidant rich Noni, essential fatty acids and oils, herbal extracts and vitamins A, C and E. Brazilian bangin' babe Gisele Bundchen launched Seeja Pure Skincare. An eco-friendly beauty line, which uses "thoughtful" recycled paper packaging, Seeja aims to put as little stress on the landscape as possible.
Kora by Miranda Kerr
Stella McCartney, fashion designer and daughter of the Beatles band member, Paul McCartney, is perhaps the most stellar example of all. She powers her website and studio by wind energy, has long promoted sustainability in her chic garments and has now released an organic skincare line, Care by Stella McCartney, to go with it. Now if that isn’t living the complete lifestyle then we don’t know what is. Care, features everything good and nothing bad; no petrochemicals, no chemical preservatives, all natural ingredients and essential oils, all active certified organic ingredients, no genetically modified ingredients and it is not tested on animals of any kind. You get the picture. It’s good stuff. It is comforting to see that people who have both power and money are using it wisely to promote sustainability, health and wellbeing. Yes they lead lives of extravagant luxury and do not want for anything, but in the surreal world of celebrity loving, loathing and lusting these organic products are a touch of reality. Celebrities are living the life of luxe and doing it in a sustainable, natural way and they are not only telling us we can do the same, they are wrapping it up in luxurious packaging and giving it to us on a silver tray. How much more encouragement do we need?
Pangeas
Care by Stella Macartney Sejaa by Gisele Bundachen
If these celebrities are looking to the future, we should be right there with them because thanks to them that future is looking beauty-full. This is one Celebrity bandwagon definitely worth jumping on.
93
Eleanor Pendlet A
lways entertaining, Gritty Pretty is your own personal Beauty Editor in a Blog. It’s about magazines. It’s about style. It’s about what nail polish to wear to a music gig. Beauty Editor at FAMOUS magazine by day, black belt ninja by night, Eleanor is super-awesome at illuminated cheekbones and liquid eyeliner, can play piano and enjoys addressed envelopes and knitting shoes for elephants.
The Bag: Alexander Wang Rocco laser-cut leather studded bag from NETAPORTER.com
Five Minutes with Eleanor How would you describe your style? Androgynous with a flirty, feminine touch. My style changes with my moods but I tend to have an eye for black, grey and other monotone pieces with an edgy and raw style. I tend to steer away from non-conventional mainstream pieces and invest in original one-offs or samples. This harder style of fashion is always softened with dewy make-up, painted nails, bold coral lipstick and when I'm feeling extra flirty with life, I'll embrace liquid liner flicks for cat eyes. What beauty item are you currently lusting over? Right now I can't get enough of Mecca Cosmetica Nail Polish in Maria for the perfect taupe, like, ever - and Love by Chloe Eau De Parfum, with its intimate notes of orange blossom, pink pepper, iris absolute, lilac, wisteria blossom and a subtle almond and vanilla tone. If you could have coffee with one person dead or alive who would it be and why? Alexander Wang - Who wouldn't want to meet the man behind the bag? You know... just a heart to heart over a soy chai latte. What are your beauty staples? M.A.C Strobe Lotion: It adds that glow that no other skin primer can replicate. Tinted moisturiser: I like light dewy coverage on my skin so I prefer tinted moisturisers and mineral tints rather than heavy foundations or pressed powders. Illuminator: It's my cannot-live-without product. M.A.C Mineralize Skin Finish is a winner and leaves the perfect amount of radiance on your upper cheekbones, nose and Cupid’s bow. I get compliments every time I wear it. What is your recipe for a balanced life? Work hard. Play fair. Eat well and enjoy the simple pleasures of life. Take a minute to take a step back from the world even if it's over a chilled glass of vino and truly appreciate just how wonderful life is. We only get one shot so make it worthwhile! Remember to give the relationships in your life unconditional effort, love and generosity and you will reap what you sow. Oh, and wear plenty of red lipstick!
94
http://grittypretty.com/
| In Le Bag of |
ton
Beauty Editor Famous Magazine Editor Gritty Pretty
In the Bag From Left to Right:
Blackberry Bold: It's with me everywhere I go. I store my work, emails and contacts in this little baby so I'd be lost without it. Business Cards: I'm constantly attending meetings with publicists, media and advertising clients so I always ensure I have business cards on me. Oroton Diary: I am obsessed with my diary. I document every meeting I have planned in this leather bound book. It never leaves my side - even on days off work! Silver rings: I picked these rings up on a recent trip to Santorini in the Greek Islands. I love them so much that I keep them in my bag so I can slide them on whenever I feel like it. M.A.C Lipstick in Morange: This is my favourite lipstick. It's bright, bold and coral. You can't go wrong - no matter what your skin tone. Alexander Wang Zipper Sunglasses: I never splurge on eyewear but decided to when I saw these little babies. I purchased them from Tuchuzy in Bondi Beach and have never regretted it! I get so many compliments and adore the zipper detailing. YSL Wallet: This is my favourite item in my bag. I love my YSL wallet so much that I sometimes just take it out with me instead of a clutch. It's a work of art. Who doesn't get sucked in by postcard detailing and YSL goodness?
95
Prepare to be Spell Bound:
Caitlin Shearer Words by Rhiannon Bulley
Caitlin Shearer, is all about that lil’ bit a’ old fashioned magic, especially when it comes to fashion, movies and the characters in her own distinctive illustrations. Le Magazine met the little lady behind the magic and asked her to share it with us in an illustrated editorial.
C
aitlin Shearer turned 21 in July, she baked cup cakes, made potato wedges and did the twist 50’s style; no doubt wearing some charismatic fifties dress and if she was feeling really bold there might have been a bullet bra underneath. She describes 96
this distinctive style as a mixture of a 1950's housewife and a witch. “Lots of black, floral prints and lace. Always Ferragamo shoes, seamed stockings, wicker handbags, and nipped in waists.”
She has curly hair, which looks like Shirley Temples' though she personally wishes it was more sophisticated like Rita Hayworths'. She never learnt to ride a bike and hates mathematics. She has a movie collection four times as tall as she is, a penchant for op shop and car boot sale treasure hunts and drinking champagne whilst dancing to 50’s jukebox tunes and these are only a few of her favourite things! Caitlin’s inimitable character translates profoundly into her art. She proudly states that she wishes she was born in the fifties and her artwork clearly embodies this desire. She describes the girls in her enigmatic illustrations as, modern girls who are partly stuck in the past. “They are all sentimental, hopeless romantics, caught, captured, pensive, waiting. Some are melancholy, some poised, some are unaware they are caught in a frame and some are ultimately coquettish.” Whoever these girls are they all have one thing in common, a heroic sense of self, that somehow ingrains itself in the viewer. When you look at Caitlin’s illustrations you are struck by a succession of emotions; the first is curiosity about who this captivating character is, the second is a sense of understanding and the third is an invigorated feeling of awe. Like a child’s drawings, Caitlin’s artworks are her means of creating an ideal world, “I am trying to fill my life with people that I wish I knew, or people who I wish that I was.” These women are conjured from a diverse list of inspiration encompassing the 1950's, the golden age of Hollywood and heroines and heroes such as Bettie Page, David Lynch, and Winona Rider, but she also looks a little further a field, subtly referencing the transgressive films of John Waters and bizarre myths like the Lochness monster and the sirens. These constant sources of stimulation inspire a persona and sometimes a silly sentence, from here Caitlin begins to see the space and style of the character emerge and then the transition of this notion into a tangible form begins.
This process is as complex as the layers of inspiration and emotion behind the characters themselves, “I draw the image, slightly roughly, in pencil then soak the paper and add light washes of paint to the broader areas of the drawing and then keep filling it in, till it's darker and gains more depth, shadow and highlight. Sometimes it can take around ten or more washes. Once that's done, I dot the blacks of the eyes and write my signature. Viola!”
| Le Artiste Profile |
Caitlin epitomises the word eclectic, framing herself everywhere in between the refined style of Elizabeth Taylor and the notorious pin up girls of the fifties and her lifestyle and artwork are equally as eclectic.
These layers of water colour paints, black ink and pencils on cotton paper form soft figures that are often finished with a flourish of glitter or iridescent pigment that alludes to each ladies own magic. Part of that magic, for Caitlin is the clothes they wear. “I'm really inspired by the mid 20th century when art was used to advertise fashion; pictures of beautiful women in beautiful clothing and the most handsome tuxedoed men and debutante dollies, each with their own respective style. Both fashion and art are an output of someone’s creative endeavors, they are both just a way to make life big, exciting and magical.” So where does that extraordinary magic, that love for old world charm, kitsch objects and slightly off kilter cult fiction come from? From a childhood of fantastical creativity, of course. “My mum was always coming up with amazing creative ideas, and most of my fondest memories spring from that. She made me hand glittered tap shoes and a jewel embroidered leotard for a circus themed day at school. I had gem-encrusted butterflies painted on my bedroom walls and a bathroom with a mosaic mermaid splash back. It was the best! Looking back on it all now, I can see that having such a creative mother gave me the confidence to pursue a career in the arts.” Caitlin was born in Sydney but was dragged away to a beachside suburb on the Central Coast when she was five. “I had to say goodbye to our house with the swimming pool and strawberry patch, and I don't remember much else of Sydney.” Life by the seaside consisted of long days at the beach, dance lessons and dress ups. Even at a young age though Caitlin was never content with simply donning a pretty frock, there had to be an element of surprise, so she spent 97
Cailin’s Favourate ‘The siren”
“
I don't see any point in living if it cannot be with a bit of magic Cailtins Colaberation with Designer, Karla Spetic
98
A picnic with her friends
By the time graduation rolled around Caitlin had experimented with multiple materials and styles and emerged like one of the girls in her own drawings; with a distinct style, an awareness for her surroundings and what made her tick and a firm vision in site. “For some reason another career path never entered my mind. I just knew that this is what I wanted to do forever.”
Like the characters in her drawings Caitlin is on a perpetual journey, with her constantly expanding movie collection, pin board of icons and ever-growing wardrobe of kitsch objects and garments. She is constantly seeing magic and beginning another journey by cementing that magic for someone else in every new art work. What could be more magic than that? Caitlin has a few ideas. “I would treasure the chance to work with top-end fashion designers, either in textile design or campaign illustrations and I wouldn't say no to working with Wes Anderson or David Lynch or Sofia Coppola. I won't hold my breath though.” We will.
Since then, as Caitlin so fittingly puts it, “everything has been a highlight! The fact that I can even begin to do this for a living pleases me beyond recognition; having a solo show
and a bit of unusual charm. at The Wall in Sydney last year, collaborating with fashion designer Karla Spetic and having work published in Oyster & Frankie magazines! I dreamed about these things when I was 16, to actually have them happen is a bit mindblowing.”
Five Minutes with Caitin
It just goes to show, sometimes when you believe in magic, “really believe” just like Peter Pan says, it happens and Caitlin is certainly an active believer, defiantly stating, “I don't see any point in living if it cannot be with a bit of magic and a bit of unusual charm.”
Soundtrack
Despite all her great successes Caitlin still maintains, “I don't really feel like my life has properly begun yet,” and maybe it hasn’t, that’s the true magic in Caitlin’s work. Her characters
“
As a child, like all children do, Caitlin spent many happy hours drawing fairies and ballerinas, but when the other kids packed away their crayons and went off to high school, Caitlin left her crayon box wide opened and continuously delved into it for salvation from the, “hellish period,” that is high school. “It was the only way I felt I could express myself at that time - living in a very insular and boring area.”
are on a perpetual journey, they are not stuck in the past or bound for the future or stranded in a palpable present they are figments of another world and the secret to reaching them is understanding that the sparkle in their eye is a little bit of magic and like beauty, it comes to the eye of the beholder when they choose to see it.
| Le Artiste Profile |
hours dressing up her brothers in array of theatrical costumes. Perhaps this was the first manifestation of her love of the slightly left of centre side of fashion, film and art, that today references the more infamous icons of decades past, but one thing is for sure Caitlin was fearless in her artistic expression of fashion from the start and obviously she was very persuasive too!
Movie Reel Night Tide, Fire Walk with me, Drop Dead Gorgeous, Angel Face, Cry Baby, Hairspray, The Virgin Suicides, The Wizard of Oz, Grey Gardens.
The High Road by Broken Bells, Mykonos by Fleet Foxes, Creature Fear by Bon Iver. Gallery Charles Anastase, J.W. Waterhouse, Amy Earles, Yayoi Kusama. Mantra Treat others in the same way that you would like to be treated.
99
g n i m r a s i D
Illustration and words by Caitlin Sheare caitlinquiet.blogspot.com
captured in a w o n y it in in m e f haze of The incandement ra to accompany au ed nt ti se ro le lib de bottle cheats an in
any lady through her day
100
ause. C & t c e Eff
when s r o it u s y n a ttract m A lady may a harm. c n w o r e h y entrapped b the trouble e r e h w is This begins.
101
Love blossoms in two seperate hearts and two treacherous tendrils of temptation and titillation unfurl
102
thorns, y t n i o p y ity and m a l a c f o e Pricked b the tast s r e t n u o c n fatale e e m m e f r u o
st... the taint of love lo
103
The Russian Renaissance Words by Brigitte Mol
Deep in the birchwood forest, aside the algae pond, below the low-slung mist, the earth moves. Owls hoot. It is spring and the bear has awakened. The bear is Russia, Russia is back.
R
ussia is back from a winter sleep spanning seven decades that in its bitter haste for communist ideals, spurned the freedom of the individual for the alleged benefit of the masses. Soviet Russia was a time of oppression and regulation: free speech, free thought was frowned upon, religion as a concept destroyed, churches toppled and censorship on literature tightened. The ‘excesses’ of past architecture, onion spires and sunset colours, made way for concrete block duplexes in the name of functionality. All in all the bear was chained. Russian artists, philosophers and musicians left for the possibilities of Europe and all that remained were Tolstoy whispers harking back to better days. Communism seeks to liberate the working man from hierarchical systems and a ruling class, and speaks of universal equality and progress without competitive drive. But we all know that 104
at the heart of every bear lies freedom, to romp the tundra or hunt the rivers edge. With the winter lifted and the freedom to dream, the possibility of competition leading to a generation of new ideas, Russia is experiencing a cultural revolution. The faces of spring are young, and their art tells the story of the bear.
Vika at work
| Le Style Destination |
Vika taking a walk
Vika at Vogue Cafe
Vika amongst the architecture the inspires her
Vika Gazinskaya Vika Gazinskaya is a Russian designer, her work is strong, decided and bold. She has been showing in Moscow for four years and her 2010 spring/summer and 2010/2011 fall/winter collections are currently stocked at Colette in Paris. Vika’s work illustrates significant attention to detail and every garment is handmade in Moscow, fingers hold and pin and work. The shapes are distinct, upside down wine glass skirts, fins, heavy folds and determined tucks. Colours are block, wool orange and purple, heavy grey, black and white. The effect feels oddly perfect, feels Russian, sure of way but somehow sad. Vika was born in Moscow during Soviet Rule and spent her childhood afternoons walking a park once owned by Catherine the Great. Summers were spent in Latvia, “mushroom and berry fields, a huge oak tree, ponds and the Baltic Sea, white sand dunes with high green grass.” Sweet nostalgia for the early days can often be seen in her pieces, a berry blouse, a simple cut, gloves to wear beneath an oak. Her designs are inspired by the many expressions of life around her: “cinema, painting, architecture, sculpture, music, nature, animals, love.” Amongst these are the works of Rem Koolhaas, Alberto Giacometti, Russian constructivist architect Konstantin Melnikov, and the original king of contemporary elegance, Cristobal Balenciaga. Vika’s Moscow seems, however, fragile. The rash crumbling of churches during Soviet rule, to mark the eradication of faith (outside the belief in communism, of course), led to
the loss of some of the cities most beautiful architecture. Rather than learn from the mistakes of the past, the current government is also destroying many old buildings: the land is worth a lot of money, and can reap more as an apartment block. To Vika, “Now Moscow is a collage of tiny little pieces of undestroyed parts, only there you can go for walks, discover and enjoy.” However, it is also a city of life. There is excitement and possibilities, wine at places like Solyanka and Strelka lead to late night gatherings. Dinner at Garazh and picnic’s in fields with people and talk that builds and inspires. It is this combination of sadness and excitement that can be felt in Vika’s work. It is different and it is special and it is the result of a past under an iron curtain and the possibilities that come from new choice, from a walk around an unknown corner, from a collection of people allowed to follow the wind. As Vika puts it, “Russia is a country with great history, unbelievable absolutely extraordinary people and totally messed up state.” Communism during the 20th century spread its fingers throughout the eastern block: Latvia, Estonia, Armenia, Moldova, Georgia and others. It’s succession by independent nations, and general freedom from oppression, has resulted in a universal revolution that extends beyond the innovation seen at its centerpiece, Moscow. The excitement felt and generated by communal growth is resulting in fantastic work, international recognition and perpetuating inspiration. The bear is roaming, honey pots are everywhere! 105
| Le Style Destination |
Vardoui Nazarian Vardoui Nazarian is a designer hailing from the Armenian highlands. She has been showing for five seasons in Moscow as part of Cycles and Seasons, the first Russian fashion and art festival. Her clothes are beautiful and feminine. Her fall winter 2010/2011 collection was inspired by Zeffirelli’s Juliet, played by Olivia Hussey, who showed “first love, naivety and passion at only fifteen years old.” The first pieces of Vardoui’s collection are bright with pinks and blues and owl brown leather. Later pieces are more subdued, more realizing, serious perhaps: thick fur coats (to vanish from Verona!) and evening gowns, young and flowing: Juliet in a long white dress, tombed, seeming of the dead. Vardoui was born in Gyumri, a locality of Armenia, situated in the highlands surrounding the biblical mountain of Ararat. Vardoui describes Gyumri as “an old town with rich history and unique style of architecture.” Unfortunately, much of it was destroyed in the earthquake of 1988, Vardoui was five and remembers it well. Architecture however, plays a key role in inspiring her designs. As a child, she remembers attending church with her family. Stone plates situated outside the church are called Khachkars and the origins, symbolism and composition behind these underpin many of her ideas. Vardoui explains: “Khachkars are found outdoors, vertically erected flat sheets, which, when in site, are positioned in relation to the four cardinal points of the world; the western side has an ornamentally carved cross, accompanied by vegetative-geometric motifs, with animals (particularly birds), and sometimes with carvings of people.” Armenia
106
The khachkar both stimulated and reflects the unique development of Armenian culture; it is one of the most characteristic symbols of Armenian identity. With its marvelous carvings, savior symbolism of the cross, and the notion of eternity, which is conveyed by the sheet, the khachkar was one of the most respected and, due to its positioning under the open air, one of the most accessible saints. After more than a thousand years, the khachkar is also a contemporary cultural phenomenon; today hundreds of khachkars are still being created in Armenia. Despite all this, the world does not know very much about khachkars. The meaning of the composition and symbolism of the khachkar is still unfamiliar to many. The main purpose of some my collection is to present this unique element of a culture, to attempt to discover its origins, the patterns of its development, its usage, and the meaning and symbolism of the carvings and ornaments.” Vardoui’s work holds fort on the crossroad between historical significance and contemporary ideas. The success of the resulting aesthetic: feminine design, bird motifs and architectural patterning elements, illustrates the importance of personal significance in design. This notion can be applied to the entire cultural resurgence: that culture mimics political situation and hence, the work of modern eastern artists holds such weight because the society, which they represent, has significant stories to tell. And so, in this newfound political freedom, the world will sit up and listen because Eastern Europe is here and their story is magnificent.
Armenia Khachkars
Vardoui evening dress
Vardoui Fall/Winter
www.jessicahart.net/blog/
| In Le Closet of |
Jessica Hart
J
essica Hart is the Australian model who grew up in Melbourne Australia and has gone onto steal hearts all over the world with her edgy unique style, lean fit body and sparkling eyes. Jessica currently calls New York home but is frequently seen on style blogs all over the world. This little Aussie gem has been featured in campaigns for Guess, H&M, Sports Illustrated and Victoria Secret. Outside of all the glamour though she has a penchant for taking photos, not just being in them and collecting vintage t-shirts from everywhere she goes. It was only natural that Jess should start her own label, Neon Hart, which is reflective of her own eclectic style. Her blog is an inspiring read detailing her travels and outfits from day to day. We caught up with Jessica to chat about what she is wearing, what she is loving and life in general.
Five Minutes with Jessica Hart What is your fondest childhood memory? My mum teaching me to drive. I loved the idea of driving from a very young age so whenever we were at my grandfathers in the country she would teach me how to drive our car. It was a manual car she said I wasn't allowed to get my license unless it was manual. I was 9. Which designers are you loving at the moment? Isabel Marrant, Azzadine Alaia, Bess What is one thing you never leave home without? My handbag Can you tell us about a time you have made a fashion faux pas? Any terrible childhood outfits? There are plenty. One that stands out would be this green roll neck top I used to like and wear all the time and now looking back I think, "what was I thinking" If you could inherit one person’s wardrobe dead or alive who would it be? Kate moss
am loving floral maxi dresses, “Imen’s jeans, my rolling stone
“
t-shirt, leopard print skirt and my akubra hat.
107
D o w n
at the bott om of the
Garden‌
Go through the wooden door and turn to your left follow the winding path as far as you can go‌
Photography Candace Meyer | Stylist Charlotte Stokes with Nobasura Hair and Makeup Lucyanne with LizBell Agency | Model Katie at Richards Models Shot on location in Canada for Le Magazine
108
Dress Le Fou @ Aritzia Socks American Apparel Boots Chie Mihara @ Gravity Pope
109
110
Dress Forte Forte @ Gravity Pope Jacket Le Fou @ Aritzia Sock American Apparel boots Gravity Pope
111
Candace Interview by Rhiannon Bulley
Dress Jil Sander @ Leone Tights American Apparel
112
Meyer. www.candacemeyer.com/
T
lens he world, as seen through the ace nd Ca of Canadian photographer instinctive Meyer, is a surreal place of phy career began magnificence. Her photogra s of her co-workers, as candid travel photograph ng part-time as a taken whilst she was worki graphs immediately flight attendant. Her photo aesthetic that has took on the whimsical, soft become her signature. of capturing her Candace has a unique way hancing their subject’s natural beauty, en a veil of dreamlike femininity and draping it in journey has seen romance. Her photographic es including her work appear in magazin rface. She has Interview, Nylon, Lula and Su paigns for top also created distinctive cam orf Goodman US department stores Bergd as Grane Jeans, and Bloomingdales as well lloggs. Anthropologie, Evian and Ke that is natural Candace’s penchant for all phy. When she extends beyond her photogra ace can usually be isn’t behind a camera Cand tryside on her horse found frolicking in the coun mule Dolly or her cat Opie or with her miniature Sweetie. tly recognisable and Candace’s imagery is instan , leaving viewers renders itself unforgettable t they have just with the pleasant feeling tha al. witnessed something magic
your Le Magazine shoot Tell us how the concept for developed? year. I have my horse and a I just moved to a farm for a g with me. After always livin miniature mule and my cat ly less end utiful break and is in the city, this is such a bea at the farm, and ry sto inspiring. We shot this eo. cam Sweetie (the cat) had a ng about photography?
What is your favourite thi Creating a little world. What inspires you? Quiet
your shoots develop? How do the concepts for e, more often than not with Normally over a glass of win en shoot with. Charlotte Stokes, a stylist I oft m surreal/dreamy feel to the Your images have a ver y es? tur pic the girl in the how would you describe Introspective, alone. your sense of style? How would you describe white on top. Nine times out of ten I wear Do you have a favourite Julie York’s ceramics
artist?
What do you like to do in Riding, riding, riding. What was the last book Mary Karr, “Lit”
your spare time?
you read?
ening too? What are you currently list Still Bon Iver t never fail to make
What are three things tha you smile? Sweetie, Opie and Dolly
life? What is your mantra for give back Work on yourself and try to What’s coming up for yo More and more film.
u?
113
114
Top Snob Skirt Obakki
115
Swimsuit Lover @ Gravity Pope Vintage pins
116
Bodysuit Stella McCartney Vintage head piece
Top Jil Sander @ Leone Short Finders Keepers Tight American Apparel
117
Michael Lo Sordo
Director/Designer Michael Lo Sordo
M
ichael Lo Sordo’s obsession with fashion began at a young age. Growing up in a family of artists with a mother who was a model, it seeped into his veins somewhere between observing his mother’s style and religiously watching Gianni Versace’s seasonal fashion shows. 118
The view that fashion is a means of constant expression, which his mother’s individual style ingrained him all those years ago, has taught him to constantly hone in on the desire of the women he designs for, by living and breathing her essence everyday.
The Summer Collection, “What will happen in the morning,” saw an even stronger focus on clean, linear tailoring, in combination with a predominantly nude, cream, black and white colour palate, which allowed the custom designed print of artist Christopher Horder to do the majority of the talking.
| Tips from Le Boys |
What was the inspiration for your summer collection?
What look are you loving this summer? Light Blazers with matching mini shorts, an unbuttoned shirt and a Michael Lo Sordo printed scarf. What woman would you like to see women today dress more like? Iris Apel no one pulls turquoise off like she did and she did oversize before Mary Kate was even born. What is your pet hate when it comes to what women wear? Those oversize poo pants kill me now! Bikini or one piece? Bikini baby What is your favourite piece from your collection for this summer? It has to be the print dress of the season the Oria Fold Morning Time Print Dress, stunning just stunning in my eyes. What will make a gal stand out from the crowd this summer? A Michael Lo Sordo dress of course! Do you have a particular type of woman in mind when you design? My sisters and my close girlfriends play a big part in my design process, subconsciously I do it for them or what I invision they should be wearing. What other designers are you currently loving? Lanvin, Lanvin, Lanvin! Is there one particular trend that you particularly love or hate at the moment? The cheap Chinese rip off store trend! Don’t be cheap girls! The trend that I am loving at the moment is colour blocking and wearing prints on prints. Very chic. What are your accessories loves for this summer? Mike Bird’s contemporary silver cuff from 4 Winds Gallery. Amazing! And Printed scarves. If you could give girls one piece of style advice in general what would it be? Don’t be afraid to spend a bit of $$$ on a fab dress no one loves a sad girl wearing a sad dress from a sad China knock off shop made by a sad little Chinese girl. What is your favourite thing about the Australian summer? Bondi Icebergs, the beach with friends and seafood BBQ’s What will be in your summer wardrobe? White linen and a mean pair of Bally camel loafers. Where can we find you this summer? If I am not at the bar I am at Yum Cha and if I’m not there then I’ll be in Thailand baby.
119
Toby Maclean Designer/Director flowers For a VagabOnd
T
oby grew up on a secluded merino stud in rural NSW where he was home schooled and spent his spare time helping his father with the sheep work or at home with his mother cutting and sewing her newest creations. It only seemed natural that he would move into fashion.Â
120
Country City of Dubbo. Toby's designs made another appearance on the track the following year as finalists for the Golden Slipper, Rose Hill.
After graduating from the East Sydney TAFE in 2006, Toby teamed up with long time friend and retailer, Nicole Page. His designs were exclusively stocked in the popular Northern beaches boutique, Mclean & Page, hanging next to Australia's leading labels.
In 2007, Toby was approached by Nicholas Huxley and the Strand Arcade to be one of six designers to open a 12-month incubator store for up and coming fashion designers. After a successful journey collaborating with the designer's and tightening business skills he was approached by an International wholesaler to design and travel back and forth from Europe and Asia buying high street fashion and visiting factories and fabric markets.
Toby's designs quickly became a favourite on the racing scene, for their delicate fabrics and sophisticated silhouettes after one of his garments won Spring Racing Carnival, Fashion on the Fields, Randwick. He was requested to Judge Fashion on the Fields, Darby Day in the
After extensive industry experience, sourcing inspiration from the globe and securing Australian and international manufacturers, Toby launched his own signature Label "flowers For a VagabOnd� at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week 2010.
Where I grew up we were so isolated from the rest of the world in the harsh Australian nature and my mother’s hand made clothing gave me endless creative fuel for women’s clothing. My style developed through illustration, I found endless creative freedom in sketching women’s clothing.
| Tips from Le Boys |
Why did you decide you become a woman’s wear designer?
Is there a particular girl you have in mind when you design? The flowers For VagabOnd girl is dark and mysterious with a contrasting femininity and sensuality Is there a particular woman whose style has influenced your label? I find in each collection I design I tend to be inspired by a girl close to me in my life, a friend or acquaintance that becomes my muse for the collection because I am in awe of their energy and eclectic style. This is then ejected into the collections, for me, using this process in designing I get to expose what women love to wear, clothing inspired by street style, sexiness and wearability. What would you like to see women wear more often? Hats, I love quirky, interesting hats and I think more women should wear them. A great hat can make any drab outfit into a hot ensemble. What are the must have pieces for this summer? A pair of Nardivile for flowers For a VagabOnd spates! What makes a woman stand out in a crowd? Confidence What should women be wearing this summer? An Angelan dress from flowers For a VagabOnd! What other accessories are you loving for summer? Clogs, a pair of clog heels are a must for summer. What other designers do you love at the moment? Balenciaga and Rick Owens What does the word Style mean to you? “Fashion Fades, but style is eternal” YSL What’s your pet hate when it comes to women’s fashion? My pet hate is seeing women playing it safe with fashion. Push the boundaries, have some fun. If you could dress one woman dead or alive who would it be? Edie Sedgwick What are your favourite pieces from your summer collection? The abdomen skirt is my favourite, it’s made from gold plated metal and black painted straws, when worn the air lifts them up and makes amazing patterns What will you be wearing this summer? My Rick Owens over sized T-shirt, vintage cut off Levi’s and my Topshop gladiator sandals…bring on summer! Where will we find you in summer? Bondi Beach
121
Rachael Cassar Eco-friendly Designer
S
ydney born and bred eco-friendly designer Rachael Cassar knew from when she was only a little one that all she wanted to do was fashion. She studied short courses throughout high school before pursuing a Bachelor of Fashion and Textile design at The University of Sydney. She emerged a neat, tidy, talented seamstress with an impeccable eye for detail and a strong passion for rich textures and abstract forms. Years of sorting through her mothers and grandmothers wardrobes had left a lasting impact on her taste and after learning about the environmental impact of the fashion industry her up-cycled garments seemed like a natural progression. Rachael’s garments take hours of meticulous unpicking and re-stitching and a whole lot of imagination. Not to mention the sourcing of the perfect discarded garment! Her one off couture pieces spend the majority of their time in a PR house in LA, in between
122
the many celebrities wardrobes they temporarily visit including Rihanna. Rachael has received many awards both within Australia and internationally, highlights include, receiving a prestigious Mittelmoda award in Italy and showing at London Fashion week as part of a traveling fashion show. Rachael Cassar is a truly unique gem in the fashion industry who see’s every persons trash as a piece of hidden treasure. Her latest collection Six was inspired by the linear style of Art Nouveau Illustrator Aubrey Beardsley and emerged as a dark collection of taffeta, lace, silk chiffon, tulle, crinoline, wool and organza, pieces in varying shapes and textures. One particularly outstanding piece was a sculptural skirt, which was given its shape using lumber supports! Genius. Rachael took five minutes out after her Sydney Launch to talk to Le Magazine about fashion, the environment and her love for both.
Ecouture- Eco couture- High-end fashion that is bold, a bit daring and a lot of fun! How did you get into up- cycling was it something you have always done? From an extremely young age I use to get so excited buying broken goods and trying to fix them. I then moved on to changing them- deconstructing them and re-designing them- using discarded pieces that I bought for next to nothing. This passion for recycling led me to experiment with deconstruction more and more until I realised that I could actually use my passion and natural process in creating high-end fashion. Why is up-cycling so important? I believe that the only way people are going to embrace the concept of recycled materials is if they feel that they are not sacrificing high end fashion aesthetic for a recycled product. You need to be clever with how you upcycle, bringing more value to the garment/material than before What inspires you?
| Real Grils who Rule the World |
How would you describe your label?
Everything inspires me. Usually I am attracted to art/music/cinema/photography that captures a mood I find intriguing, and a tad eerie What materials do you use to create your garments? Leather, satin, silk, chiffon, tulle, taffeta, feathers, crystals, crinoline, lace, mesh- anything and everything. I don’t really discriminate against any fabric except for vinyl (PVC) Where do you find your materials? Anywhere from op shops, markets, auctions, garage sales, antique shops and I also welcome donations. Can you talk us through the process of creating one of your garments? First I come up with an inspiration then I go and source second hand garments which have fabric that fit in for the look I am going for. I am very much attracted to interesting fabrics with great drape value and textural surfaces. Then I unpick these garments and work straight on the stand sculpting each look- adding and subtracting as I go. It is very much about forming the look on the mannequin and manipulating fabrics, embellishing and bringing them back to life. Which was your favourite piece from your latest collection? My favourite piece was the body hugging stretch lace dress with crystal embellishment, beaded tussled shoulders and thick shredded organza shaggy hem. What have the highlights of your career included so far? Mittelmoda was definitely a highlight- to have a parade in Italy, and then win an award was so overwhelming! I was competing against such amazing European talent. I still need to pinch myself when I think of that moment I heard my name called out. Just wish it didn’t slip away so quickly! What are your hobbies? I am a huge Vintage accessory collector. I have around 400 bags and a jewellery collection that is taking over my room. What is your greatest vintage find so far? Probably a glass beaded early 1900’s bag-Also many Vintage Comme de Garcon pieces Do you have any tips for how we can up-style our own pieces? I think people get over their pieces so quickly- I never throw anything out because I know down the track I will be able to bring it out and change the style to suit me at that moment in time. I think it is about being clever and just trying to change the shape and texture to bring new life to a garment you have grown tired of. Why is it so important to you to be creative? It is the only way I can express myself- I feel like I can create something that is bigger than me- something that takes on it’s own life. It means so much to me to create something out of nothing. To use my hands to create something visual and tangible. What is your mantra for life? Never ever take yourself too seriously.
123
Hamish
Ta-Me
www.doofdoofdoof.com/ Words by Monique Friedlander
Hamish Ta Me is a Sydney based commercial photographer with a lot of skill and a lot of love. He shared his love for fashion photography with Le Magazine for the Mistress of Mystery fashion editorial that referenced our style muse for this issue Mata Hari and the mystery surrounding her death. He shot the entire thing by the light of bus shelter ad. boards on Sydney’s buzzing Oxford St. It was a concept he had wanted to realize for a while. It is ideas like this backed up by a strong set of skills that make Hamish one of the best photographers in Australia, no8 at the annual Australia’s Top Photographers awards 2008/2009 to be precise. Le Magazine took time out with Hamish on set to find out more about what makes him tick.
H
amish is a busy man, rushing about from project to project, wether it is covering a fashion show, shooting an ad. campaign for large-scale clients like Opera Australia, or teaching budding young photographers, he is no lazy daisy, but he is no serious sam either. His work moves from commercial fashion work to conceptual art project and portrait work with ease. Like all great photographers he is in it for the flash of the camera not the flash of the lifestyle. ‘What I’ve noticed about many photographers is a certain ADHD’ he says, leaning toward his mammoth computer screen. He is clicking
124
through some of his latest photographs, shot in ridiculously high definition, with one of the best cameras in the world at the Powerhouse museum as part of a live fashion photo shoot for Sydney Design Week that drew in hundreds of viewers. Hamish pursued his career in photography in this exact ADHD manner, like a bull at a gate, eager to get stuck in the thick of it. He shot off to Europe after a taste of fine arts school and a technical photography degree at TAFE, to work in Milan as an assistant photographer, but he ran into a bit of bother.
| Le Photography |
Hamish on set
Fashion shoot from Powerhouse Museum
“I quickly realised that to make money as a non-Italian speaker is really hard. I came back to Australia realising that it is really cool to be here.” And we’re personally happy he did! Today Hamish is focusing on developing one of his latest non-commercial series, which features Melbourne-based tricksters in action. ‘Le Petite Mort’ is an ongoing series that captures sequenced images of trickster hip-hop dancers, with a patience of steel; Hamish then layered each image into one. The technical rigour involved was baffling. He explains to us that in mid-air, “you suddenly have that feeling of ecstasy and perfection followed by the inevitable melancholy of falling back to earth. I like that poetry.” Another side-project (as if he needs another,) is a guerrilla art initiative, which he founded in 2004. By night, Hamish can be found posting up his artworks underneath various bridges in Kensington and Darlington. By the time the sun rises, they will be covered in graffiti. “It’s lovely”, he tells us. “It’s revolutionary. It is transient but it democratises the artistic landscape.”
125
Hamish onset at the Powerhouse Museum
Live fashion shoot at the Powerhouse Museum
What I’ve noticed about many photographers is a certain ADHD
”
”
126
Trailing him on his shoot for Le Magazine was like watching a director at work, realizing a vision and bringing a character to life. A model turns into a ghostlike character caught in the light of the modern commercial world and captured by his lens at the precise moment when the varied lighting hits her face just right. And when the photo pops up onto his screen another captivating transformation takes place, the professional photographer is transformed into a child tickled pink by his latest achievement, his eyes light up and like the child searching for praise his enthusiastic eyes search his team, not for praise but for a mutual satisfaction. And he always gets it.
Hamish is a joy to be around, he brings a fondness to a shoot that enthuses comfort in his entire team, this is where the mastery of great work begins and Hamish has it down to an art that is as fine as the art of the finished project itself. Hamish has the ability to bring out the best in his subjects and his team. His love of all things creative is contagious and his ability to see a moment in an entirely different way to the person standing next to him is extraordinary.
| Le Photography |
According to Hamish, the perfect photograph is made up of a blend between beautiful subject matter and beautiful execution. He has had a long-term love affair with the notion of transient light and is forever trying to capture those candid moments that no one else notices.
For all this love though, Hamish is not someone who is completely consumed by his work. You’d be bamboozled to know that Hamish’s love for photography is rivalled by another passion- surfing! He tells us this whilst pointing to the bump on his head from the waves that morning. We asked him if there are any skills he applies to both. He stops flicking through his pictures and ponders. “The appeal of surfing is a lack of control. It’s exhilarating. But surfing also involves the calm bobbing when you hang around the back of the waves. A lot of photography is the business side, the calm side. Then you’re thrown into the actual shoot. It’s a frenzy pulling together creativity to make something bigger than your own creative vision.’ It should also be noted that, when asked whether he would pick a camera or surfboard to take to a desert island, his answer was the latter. ‘Why take a camera? There’d be no one to look at the photographs but me!” he insists. “I hope there’s good surf on the island.” Hamish isn’t one to bob up and down for too long, the thrill of the wave is what keeps him going and when he catches one Hamish sure knows how to ride it and we get the feeling he likes them a little unpredictable. Sure, Hamish might be one busy little creative bee, but we’re convinced that he’s loving every moment of it.
Portrait of Samantha Harris by Hamish
127
Words Monique Friedlander Photography Tim Kindler and Esteban La Tessa
The Ampersand café bookstore
We all love a good cocktail, speaking literary, not literally, this time the Ampersand café bookstore in Paddington is perhaps the yummiest of them all. It’s a tasty mix of bookstore, library and café all in one, which made it the perfect setting for Le Magazine’s ‘Lolita- Lights, Camera, Blossom.’ fashion editorial.
L
olita- Lights, Camera, Blossom,’ follows the journey of a sweet as sugar girl who transforms from self-made model, with camera in hand, into a poised beauty, who is intellectually empowered and unafraid to exercise this power. She has mastered her girlish charm and knows exactly how to play her cards so she never loses. The Ampersand bookstore provided the perfect setting for the end of our story where a girl becomes a woman and charm reinforced with knowledge makes an unforgettable character. The café bookstore has the kind of oldworldliness that makes you wish that everything could be in a sepia tone. Like some kind of literary casino, visitors can pull shut the window shades, pick up a few good books and lose track of time. It’s also a great place for people watching, they say you can’t judge a book by its cover but you sure can tell a lot about a person by the cover of the book they are reading and when it comes to Ampersand the characters are as diverse as the covers.
Ampersand Cafe
128
Katherine, Ampersand’s friendly manager, adores the vibrant atmosphere that greets her at work everyday, “locals visit our café regularly and chat to the staff-there’s always laughter
The literary treasures, which span the height and length of every floor and staircase, encompass everything from fantasy books to biographies with treasures like a sweet children’s encyclopaedia from the turn of the century tucked in between.
| Le Location |
and good cheer.” And who can blame them? With over 30, 000 books on offer and quaint rug-covered floors you’ll get lost in a world of bookish antiquity. Chandeliers, floral crockery and red velvet armchairs ache with nostalgia for the days when time was not a luxury and attention to the finest details was the norm.
Credit Tim Kindler
There are endless nooks and crannies just frothing with books to suit the taste of every reader. Before settling down with your favourite classic though, it is mandatory to take a peek at the café’s glass cabinet full of all sorts of culinary delights. Without fail, your salivary glands will explode with satisfaction when you see the sweet treats on offer. Homemade chai tea, sugary cupcakes and apple and berry crumble. De-lish!
Ampersand Cafe Katherine enjoying a coffee
Only a space with a truly powerful ambience could have been the surroundings for our smouldering Lolita with her Brigitte Bardot
“The
Ampersand bookstore provided the perfect setting for the end of our story...
inspired hair and make-up. She is a fortified modern-day temptress, playful yet provocative, in a completing disarming way. Girly floral motifs were anchored onto bold shoulder pads and lace garters and worn as cheekily positioned brooches cementing her seductive charm and intelligence. We’re excited to visit the Ampersand café bookstore again! Who knows what new characters we’ll meet from the world of printed ink? The Ampersand café bookstore is located at 78 Oxford Street, Paddington. To find out more, take a looksee at their lovely website: www.cafebookstore.com.au 129
“
f o g n i n n i g e B e h T e l b a c i l p an Inex
y e n r u o J
By Sophie Ward
The Beginning of an Inexplicable Journey is the latest literary venture of writer/model/director and all round creative Sophie Ward. Sophie’s narrative prose poetry describes the journey towards adulthood and beyond that is every human being’s unique right of passage. It explores multiple destinations and all the emotions and cathartic episodes that arise along the path of growth. It is an honest tale that appeals to the inner examiner in us all awakening a refuge of self-awareness for the person we are becoming. The Beginning of an Inexplicable Journey is reflective of Sophie’s own journey; navigating rough Australian landscapes, sleek Parisian hotel interiors, culturally enriched Italian beaches, classic English gardens and the bright lights of New York City. It weaves a powerful narrative of emotional evolution and consistent revelation, propelling every one of us to question, “What if we embraced our existence rather than resisted it? What if you found what you were really looking for?”
H
e brought a shallow bowl of dry salty popcorn to where we sat on the walled edge of the sea-fronting terrace. I saw how the blue bowl mirrored the ocean with its own popcornwhite fishing boats, drifting about in the salt, and wondered if the blue potter might have once lived by the sea. A hundred metres from the shore one man stood up in a lone boat and peered over the prow toward the granite shore and azure shallows he hovered over; unwary of the appeal that his curious manner, his grey hair and brick skin, held to the outsiders above him. “I always thought we were the only people in the world,” my friend said quietly, without looking me straight in the eye. “How much has changed.” He spoke his words, perhaps more to himself, with a kind of impassioned interest, watching the fisherman lie down now widthways in his boat.
130
“Did you learn English in Paris, when you moved away?” I asked. “I am still always learning English. But to work in France with my boyfriend I must learn French. It takes a long time to change,” he said, as he hooked his leg up to his chest and placed his foot down with careful attention on the limestone.
| Le Literature |
“I first saw a white man on the television and I was five years old”, he added. And then, with a slight smile, “I was very confused.”
“Do you miss your home in Thailand?” “I left when I was young, it isn’t home anymore. If I was home, it wouldn’t be home. That was one home, and now I have many.” He picked the last kernels out of the oiled bowl and flicked them down amongst the geraniums. “Do you want to go down to the lagoon with me?” I asked. He said yes, and he would take photographs. I watched his eyes as he searched for the camera in his pockets. Crippled lizards flit about amongst the salty shade as we descended toward the scene that unfolded below. The day was disconnecting itself from time in waves. The heat did that. The nights rolled along as we walked along the rotating globe, toward places that moved just as fast toward us. I always looked forward to the warmth of an elbow in mine, to wondering which bar would serve us dinner tonight and where the table would be when we found it. In the magneticism of so many dark nights, my mind often talks to me, when the silence is afloat elsewhere and even the trees make less noise without light. In the day, the echo of wakeful birds and distant tyres upon ashphalt refracts itself into my open room. That noise is gone every night, and in its place, time and again, I’m aware of something almost hugging my mind to itself – some thought or voice that emanates from the depths of some unfathomable situation. I realise only upon reflection that these thoughts would seem strange to an outsider. Only inside my mind it is real, and in place. How do I talk back to them? Is it the past that is talking back to me after I’ve made it? Or the future? How do I know that it is me who is talking? These days though, I couldn’t wait to be free, which really meant that I wanted to wander around changing myself all the time – not trying to change – but just being a change: Walking in a world where everything was entropic and wandered away from what it was. It was part of my life, I realized, this was the very nature I’d been created with and when it was worded it seemed scary, as if there was nothing definite in the world, not that sun nor any man. But this I know now. This is how I like to be, wandering, stepping into myself, becoming a different version of the same soul with every step along the pavement, sending the pressures of gravity bubbling upwards through vein and synapse. Before this existence there was nothing, and yet everything after. The universe created its own information about how the world should occur. I wanted everyone to be freed from the rules of information that told them this was it. I wanted people to know the other side of the moon as well, the other ways life could be. At the lip of the shore Gemma cradled a bleeding ankle, cut out on the reef. She looked back at me through the brim of a long and broad hat, and drew her attention to the light. I start believing that madness might not be a sickness, but just a different, no less perfect view of this world. I like to think that’s what happens. Your electricity never weeps away. I could see the old man on the horizons’ hadn’t (he almost skipped to the shore), and I hoped the little spiders’ didn’t ever. But I want to let go of mine for a while. I want to get into other worlds and see what your madness is like, because I need to see a fuse burn beyond mine. You can download An Inexplicable Journey from http://papercastlepress.com/blog/?page_id=7441 131
| Le Style |
Paris
Compiled by Frédéric Vielcanet aka Easy Fashion Fred http://easyfashion.blogspot.com/ Denni , Fashion Blogger http://thechicmuse.blogspot.com/ D&G Blazer and Dress, Topshop shoes.
“In daily life, I am a photojournalist, but when I take pictures for my blog, it’s like listening to the breathing of Paris Streets and I love that feeling. During the Fashion Weeks, it’s different, because people are more prepared and looks are very sharp. When I get a new portrait with a great look, I try to imagine what Easy Fashion visitors will think about it. I am always happy to see that they are coming from all over the world. I like to have small talks with my models and I try to ask a few questions just to get an insight into who they are. If I have enough free time, I have a project to create a new blog about dogs and cats.”
Maud, Men’s Stylist Tequilla Solo, Pepe Jeans, Repetto Shoes, Monoprix scarf and sunglasses, All Saints Bag.
CHIU, Model Vintage leather Jacket from HK, WaterProof boots from HK, RALPH LAUREN shirt.
Marcela, Stage Designer at Paris Opera Kirstofer Kongshaug outfit, Urban Outfitters shoes, Ray Ban sunglasses.
Nini (right), Designer-Stylist. All vintage, CA4LA hat from Japan Hugo (Left), Make-Up Artist H&M shirt, Marc Jacobs Jeans, vintage boots and bag.
Hanging out Deyrolle Deyrolle is an old Parisian gem, it opened its doors in 1831 and has been steeped in the tradition of Cabinets of Curiosités (Wonder-Rooms) ever since. On the ground floor, there is a concept store called “Le Prince Jardinier” for gardening. Walk up one more floor and you encounter mounted animals (that have all died of natural causes), rare butterfly collections, shells and corals, and other unusual minerals. Deyrolle is located near the famous St-Germain des prés and the “Café de Flore.”
Fred in a Nutshell What is your personal recipe for statement street style? Forget the price and mind only about quality … What are you currently listening to? “Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence” by Ryuichi Sakamoto, a Japanese pianist. You can listen to it on my blog What was the last book you read? “Requiem for Yves Saint Laurent” by Laurence Benaïmv
132
London
| Le Style |
Compiled by Verena Grotto www.appealtotheeye.blogspot.com/
Verena Stefanie is the editor of the blog APPEAL TO THE EYE. The blog started in June 2006, when Verena started doing some cool hunting for DIESEL Italy. From then on Verena continued to photograph interesting people, as at that time, there were no street styles blogs about the city of Barcelona. NIGEL, Stylist at Topman Oxford Circus Verana can proudly say APPEAL TO THE EYE was the first style Authentic new era Atlanta Braves cap, ‘snapper’ of Barcelona streets and clubs! Verena now lives in Full Circle denim shirt, vintage paisley London and continues to capture the underground lifestyle of pocket square, Swatch watch, Topman the streets and how its individuals express themselves chinos, 106 Vans. through their clothing.
LAURA, Product Development at Paul Smith Paul Smith top, shoes from a beautiful market, Acne trousers, vintage bag
ESTEL. Sales Advisor at MIU MIU Agnes B jacket and shirt, Opening Ceremony shoes MARCUS, Stylist/ Brand Director Paperpac snapback cap, Paperpac t-shirt, Uni-qlo shorts, Nike Air Jordans
Five minutes with Verena What are you currently listening too?
JACK, Student Almost everything from a lil shop in Australia where I usually buy everything.
Lately I am listening to grime music as I am also working on a documentary photography project about the scene. I listen to a bit of everything to give me a wide idea of what is going on in the music world. What was the last book you read? The Secret
LYSA, Sales Advisor at Beyond Retro Mostly vintage
If you could have coffee with one person dead or alive who would it be? Alive it would be Jamel Shabazz, Dizzie Rascal or my best friend living in Canada. Dead it would be Alberto Sordi; an important Italian actor/comic, Che Guevera or my Grandpa.
Hanging out Beyond Retro
GRACE, Student All vintage
Beyond Retro is the vintage hub at the heart of London’s street scene, whether you are trawling for a forgotten treasure or just dropping into hangout with the cool creative folk who work there, Beyond Retro never fails to deliver a good dose of inspiration.
133
| Le Style |
New York Complied by Anastasia Blades
Anastasia Blades is a kiwi, camera clad girl who has been travelling the world and immersing herself in the photography industry for the past four years. She is currently based in New York City, working in fashion production and photography.
Anastasia is on a constant search for the perfect image or something, she’ll know it when she finds it, but until then, she’ll continue to make art, laugh loads, work far too much and meet incredible soul mates every step of the way.
Alida Frey (left), Painter Dress Wet Seal Dress, shoes Irregular Choice
Goldie Rush, Image Consultant All vintage from Amacord vintage fashions, glasses Caviar, shoes Chanel
Kristen Brown, Sales Associate/ Singer All Vintage
Brinn Flag (right), Painter www.brinnflagg.com All American Apparel, shoes Irregular Choice
Kerin Rose, Eyewear Designer www.a-morir.com Vest Tom Tom , T-shirt American Apparel, pants Top Shop, bag Betsey Johnson, jewellery Noir, glasses A-Morir
Five minutes with Anastasia What will you be wearing this summer? This summer I wore lots of colour and lipstick everyday. What are you currently listening to? I am currently listening to The Prodigy and Massive Attack What was the last book you read? The last book I read was Comfort me with Apples
Nina Chitadze, Fashion Designer http://kaviarandcigarettes.com Top Kaviar and Cigarettes, shorts Vintage, shoes Irregular Choice, hand made necklace, bow and sunglasses Chinatown. Hope Bowers, Visual Artist/Sales Associate/Image Consultant All Vintage from Amacord Vintage and Beacons Closet, bag Chanel
134
Hang out Lit Lounge “Lit Lounge is two floors of dimly lit awesomeness with hoegaarden on tap. From the street it doesn’t look like much but once you walk inside you are surrounded by downtown funky kids. It feels like hipster town, but somehow...less obnoxious. Lit Lounge is an awesome place to party till the early hours of the morning.”
| Le Style |
Sydney
Compiled by Millie Stuckey http://doubleafoto.blogspot.com/
Millie is an adventurous young lady who loves her Lomography camera, travelling different places and meeting new people and her friends, she loves them A LOT. She is also partial to good food especially Sushi, Thai, Mexican and Italian.
She is one half of the pair behind the Double a Foto blog and spends all her spare time behind the lens of her beloved Lomography. Next year she hopes to head overseas to London to meet more friends to love and stylish people to photograph. Brooke Callaghan, Retail Sass and Bide Jacket, bag & maxi skirt, top from If in LA, shoes from Melbourne & Rayban sunglasses
Stephanie Frig, Student Mum’s shoes and top, pants from Zeitgeist, Karen Walker sunglasses and her neighbour’s bag
Nell Grant, Student All American Apparel, Funkies shoes
Jane Martin, Visual Merchandiser Wearing all American Apparel, Monkey Business shoes & Rayban sunglasses
Sarah Starkey, Pop singer Complex Geometries dress, Zambesi top, Ellery sunglasses, Justin Boots, Nanny Fine bag
Hanging out
Five Minutes with Millie
LightsattheoldFitzroy
What will you be wearing this summer?
The Old Fitzroy a charismatic little bar/restaurant/hotel in Sydney’s Wooloomooloo. It is one of the oldest establishments in Sydney and is also home to one of Sydney’s first independent theatre groups. From the haphazard renovations to the creative crowd that frequents it this is one of Sydney’s quaintest hangouts by far.
I’ll be wearing clogs, denim shorts, knee high socks and floral prints and a cute floppy hat What are you currently listening to? Tame Impala, Forest Gump Soundtrack and The Beatles. If you could have coffee with one person dead or alive who would it be? Syd Barett
135
| Le Style |
Melbourne Compiled by Olivia Tran http://oliviaphotografic.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/olitran/
“My name is Olivia, I just turned 19 and I’m a fashion photographer. I started to gain interests in photography when I was 16 but didn’t quite take it seriously until late last year. I don’t really know how I got so into photography, I always wanted to be an illustrator / graphic designer when I was young. Photography however came to me quite naturally, it allowed me to connect my feelings and communicate visually through my work. You can also check out my work via my flickr or my blog.” Alvin Miechel, Retired 1960’s naval coat, naval boots (vintage), tram pants.
Ci Anh Thi Nguyen, Student / Fashion stylist Customized taped wedges, Sock shop socks, black cycling shorts, Choppers T-shirt, Maticevski coat, Witchery bag.
Luke Warm, Designer/ Retail Assistant Georgie Solomon oversize shaggy knitted flokati from Shag, Christopher Ross snake belt, Cadet boots and old Dr denims. Jessica Barny, Student Vintage Boots, 100 yen shop socks, Meet me at Mikes jeans, Something Else jumper, Big W black studded shirt, Perth heart-shaped necklace, Karen Walker jacket, vintage beret, Lover/ Arabella bags
James Lachlan, Model Alpha 60 Trench coat, Woo Young Mi Jumper, Preen T-shirt, Cheap Monday black skinny jeans, Wayne Cooper Boots.
Olivia in a Nutshell Christiaan Van Til, Student Blue polo shirt, La Coste vintage jumper, Hem & Haws jeans, Doc Martins shoes.
Hanging out The Cookie Bar is a half bar half restaurant located on top of Curtin House on Swanston street.
What will you be wearing this summer? My style is very simple, and I especially don’t like to show skin so for summer long trouser suits with flats/ sandals and a cute singlet is always simple and stylish. What are you currently listening too? My favourite genre is Hip-hop/ rap, I’ve been listening to a lot of old school hip-hop artists such as The Pharcyde, Mos def and A Tribe Called Quest. If you could have coffee with one person dead or alive who would it be? Gregory Crewdson (all time favourite photographer)
136
| Le Style |
Brisbane
Compiled by Chih-Han Hsu | http://chihhanhsu.com/ | http://unsignedworks.blogspot.com/ | http://victortango.tumblr.com/
“I am part photographer/game character artist/multimedia/life enthusiast/comedian lunatic; an artist whose work delves deep into an un-definable array of subjects that are always raw, beautiful and upfront. With a mind too creatively complex and alive to be put into justified words, I can be best described as a character with the talent to produce work in a wide range of mediums, which never cease to evolve aesthetically and emotionally, all whilst retaining the intriguing and inspirational persona. I am also part of the infamous photographic collective Hobogestpo and am known as Victor Tango.”
Edwina Sinclair, Student/young designer Sara Phillips top, Alpha 60 bag, vintage tights/pants, Tristan Blair boots
Rachel Thatcher, Sales Assistant Karla Spetic Blazer, vintage dress, vintage shoes.
Pip Green, Student Black sheer shirt, baggy ripped denim shorts, Vans, studded cuff. Kat Hartmann, Law student Besse Head Black. Vintage fur vest, Mink Pink shirt, unknown label dress, Ninewest shoes, Karen Walker necklace.
Grace O’connor, Student Khaki blouse, white high-waisted skirt, black Converse, leopard print furry hat. Guy Buzz, Actor We-rob-banks shirt, Levis jeans, Standard black blazer, Wayne Cooper boots
Chih in a Nutsell What will you be wearing this summer?
Hanging out Flamingo Cafe is new and has heaps of character, great coffee, wacky menu and people to match.
Tailored stuff, not looking like a bum for a change. What are you currently listening too? Jeff Buckley, Beastie Boys and RadioLab podcasts. If you could have coffee with one person dead or alive who would it be? Dead: John Lennon, Alive: Haruki Murakami.
137
| Le Style |
Perth
Compiled by Emma Bergmeier www.dropstitch.com.au/
“A couple of years ago I returned home from a backpacking jaunt around Europe only to discover that the majority of my group of friends had decided to pack up and move to Melbourne and Sydney. I felt totally lost without them so I decided to do something in an attempt to lure them back. I launched a street fashion blog dedicated to the stylish inhabitants of Perth and since then, my life has changed completely. Three years on and unfortunately none of my good mates have made the move back to Perth, but they’ve certainly come to recognise that Perth is a lot more fashionable than they originally thought.”
Cameron, Photographer RM Williams boots, Pigeonhole jeans, Roger David jacket and shirt, tie from Myer and Industrie waistcoat.
Delilah, Owner of vintage boutique Winifred & Bance Laura Ashley floral dress, cowboy boots and 80s Katies jacket all vintage from Winifred & Bance
Emily, Stylist ASOS dress, boots from Payless, bow from Sportsgirl, leggings from Cotton On Constance, Make up artist Dress by Wheels & Dollbaby, vintage jacket and bag.
Hanging out My favourite store in Perth is Pigeonhole – they sell toy cameras, cute clothing and awesome accessories.
Sam, Fashion intern Shirt by Ben Sherman, sequin bomber from eBay, black Drainpipes by Extinct and Boots by Billies
Emma in a Nutshell What will you be wearing? Clogs, vintage dresses and cardigans on cool nights. What are you currently listening to? The Drums, Little Red and Tame Impala What are you currently reading? Coco Chanel biography
138
Le Ladies Must
Le Sounds
The Lindy Charm School for Girls
So Frenchy So Chic
Words by Monique Friedlander
Words by Monique Friedlander
Frock? Check. Gloves? Check. Extra-tight compression pantyhose? We’ll have to work on that one.
Frankophile or not, you’re going to love the sixth instalment of the So Frenchy So Chic album. Heralded the ‘unofficial album’ of the annual Alliance Francaise French Film Festival, this musical gem is the first French album to have reached number nine on the Australian ARIA Chart.
Hark back to eras gone by with The Lindy Charm School for Girls, an institution dedicated to reviving the glamour and etiquette of the early 20th century. The school offers a number of retro-chic workshops, teaching the art of classically flawless makeup and the strict rules of vintage dressing. You will also discover the best method of using modern styling tools to master the illustrious ‘victory rolls’ hairstyle, and the best way to create finger waves. Workshops are held around Australia and are run by a team of learned vintage-lovers, all of whom abide by the archetypal pin-up girl mantra- thou shalt always endeavour to wear red lipstick!
| Le Culture |
Le Culture It is a worn notion that French songs are only about the Eifel Tour and escargot. But don’t be deceived! So Frenchy So Chic is a collation of the most eclectic mix of emerging indie bands imaginable, poached from a range of French underground music genres. This year, the album showcases 34 tracks by both French and English speaking artists such as Vanessa Paradis, Nouvelle Vague and Emmanuelle Seigner. The tracks were also individually sourced from edgy music festivals, websites, radio and iTunes. If you’re ears are hungry for sweet sounding French croons, you’d be silly not to get your hands on this one.
139
140
Le Escape
Le Experience
Castello di Pontantino
Hydra
Words by Scarlett Keddie
Words by Scarlett Keddie
It’s not every day you get to stay in a castle, especially not one in Tuscany run by eclectic, down to earth, organic wine producers. Castello di Potantino is a completely different experience, merging international students, who come to work in the vineyards in return for accommodation, and the lucky few who are able to stay and bask in summer relaxation. Its looming ochre façade masks many plush rooms, self-serving kitchens, charming bathrooms and the occasional skinned animal or mounted hog’s head. Open double-doored windows usher soft breezes that carry tantalizing aromas of freshly cooked organic meals along dark wooden hallways. Castello Di Pontantino delivers all of life’s most sought after desires. Tranquility, wine and degustation delights on one traditional silver platter.
Floating off the lumpy Peloponnesian coast, Hydra, a predominantly fishing island, is relatively untouched by tourism. Unlike the bustling Eastern islands of Mykonos and Santorini, Hydra emanates an ancient authenticity. Cicadas scream all day long as Hydrians and visitors alike throw themselves from the scorched rocks that comprise the shoreline into the aquamarine waters. Donkeys clamber up cobbled alleyways that penetrate the lively port like a spider’s web. The absence of cars and buses has preserved its original maritime culture and you can’t help but feel it has been like this for centuries. Saying that, the island welcomes visitors with open arms, proffering fresh platters of locally caught seafood, crisp Greek salads and wine aplenty.
| Le Culture |
Le Arts
Le Covet
The Royal Academy of Arts
iChic.
Words by Scarlett Keddie
Words by Monique Friedlander
The Royal Academy of Arts is open to the public daily between four and seven pm six days a week and until 10pm on Fridays and is an absolute must see when you’re delving through the winding streets of Londontown. Upcoming exhibitions include John Singer Sargent’s; ‘Sargent and the Sea’, Tracy Emin’s ‘Walking with Tears’ and Sauerbruch Hutton and Sir Henry Rushbury’s Drawings, Watercolours and Prints. There is certainly no shortage of visual stimulants in this space and additional activities including free gallery talks and lectures to enhance the experience. The Royal Academy of Arts is also home to the world’s largest open submission contemporary art exhibition, showcasing over 1,200 works, with many for sale, the exhibition features both established and upcoming artists. This summer’s theme, selected by Royal Academicians Stephen Chambers and David Chipperfield, is ‘Raw’. The Academy is located in Burlington House, Piccadilly.
Rejoice! Finally, an haute-couture purchase we can justify under the auspices of ‘practicality’. In 2008, Oscar de la Renta explained to Elle magazine that his designs were never inspired by abstract concepts, but instead simply by a woman’s life. This year, it seems like ‘the woman’ isn’t de la Renta’s only muse. Since the launch of the Apple iPad the fashion world has been sleeping with one eye open, waiting for the arrival of a high-end iPad clutch. And after more than half a century at fashion’s forefront, it’s no surprise that de la Renta featured several luxury iPad clutches in his resort 2011 collection. Topped with ribboned boaters, his models carried what de la Renta deliciously named ‘Mosaico embroidered leather iPad cases’. These babies are available online at the pretty price of US$290. Well we never said that being practical would necessarily be economical, now did we?
141
| Le Loves |
Le Loves American Apparel www.americanapparel.net
Olive Shoppe theoliveshoppe.com
Antoine + Stanley www.antoineandstanley.com
Pleasure State 02 9004 8077
Aritizia www.aritzia.com
PLOMO www.shopbop.com
Bendon 1800 338 235
Ray-Ban 1300 655 612
CND nails 1800 449 109
RetroSuperfuture retrosuperfuture.com
DimitySo 1800 338 235
Sabatini White www.sabatini.co.nz
Dluxe in.d-luxe.co.nz
Saint Augustine Academy www.saintaugustineacademy.com.au
Elle Macpherson Intimates www.ellemacphersonintimates.com
Sanna www.sanna.com.au
Finders Keepers the Label www.finderskeepersthelabel.com
Sass and Bide www.sassandbide.com
Glue Store www.gluestore.com.au
Snob Design www.snobdesign.com
Gravity Pope www.gravitypope.com
Snog the Frog www.snogthefrog.com.au
House of Fetish www.houseoffetish.com.au
Stella Mccartney www.stellamccartney.com
House of Harlow 1960 www.miijo.com
Stillier www.stillier.com.au
KATZI www.katzi.com.au
Subfusco www.subfusco.com
Leona Edmiston www.leonaedmiston.com
Sunglass Hut www.sunglasshut.com.au
Leone www.leone.com
Topshop www.topshop.com
Love Chile www.lovechile.com.au
Windsor Smith www.windsorsmith.com
Low Luv by Erin Wasson www.miijo.com
Yamila Guedez www.yamilaguedez.com
Minty Meets Munt www.mintymeetsmunt.com
Zu Shoes www.zushoe.com.au
Obbakki www.obakki.com 142
Final Word Issue Four of Le Magazine has been about finding our feet and we want you to find your feet in your style. We have played with new and bold ideas and we want you to do the same Make your style your most powerful possession. What you wear can say a lot more about you than you realize… Tell the world your story… Love, live and dress with passion whatever that may be Le Black Book and Le Magazine want to know who you are, send us all your thoughts and feedback to editor@leblackbook.com.au Our closing words for this issue come from two of fashions most fearless femme’s, the original and the modern day innovator “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” - Coco Chanel "All that ever holds somebody back, I think, is fear. For a minute I had fear. [Then] I went into the [dressing] room and shot my fear in the face..." - Lady Gaga
Be Fearless Lots of love, The Le Magazine Team xx
143
www.leblackbook.com.au