Meet The Brewer by Left Bank Leeds

MEET THE BREWER

L S 6 B E E R F E S T I VA L LEFT BANK LEEDS

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MAX MIECHOWSKI PHOTOGRAPHER

Shortly after getting my first camera, I realised that I loved photographing people. Photography gave me an opportunity to meet new people, to learn about them, and to connect with them in a way that wouldn’t otherwise be possible. I lived in Leeds for 2 years, and although my time there was short, the craft beer culture certainly left an impression on me! When I was asked to go back to meet and photograph a selection of the brewers responsible, I jumped at the chance of learning more about the industry and the people and processes involved. The 8 brewers serve as a small cross section of the craft beer industry in Yorkshire, with each of them bringing their own tastes, experiences and passion to the table. Everyone I met throughout the project was kind enough to share with me their stories about brewing, their views and opinions about the industry, as well as what they like to get up to outside of the brewery. The craft beer industry is what it is because of the passionate brewers striving to push it forward, with new flavours and new ways of involving the community in what they do. ‘Meet The Brewer’ was an amazing experience for me, and it’s safe to say that I won’t be able to drink another craft beer without considering the person responsible for the taste and ethos behind the brand.

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INTRO There are many things we wouldn’t have predicted, sitting cross-legged in Bramham village hall carpark back in summer 2009. That’s where LS6 Beer Fest started: over a cracking pint or several at one of many north Leeds village beer festivals attended that summer. A few of us had recently moved out of student digs in Hyde Park to try out a more rural lifestyle. But one phrase kept coming back as we supped our way through the endless list of beer festivals: “LS6 needs one of these...” A trip to a gig at a fledgling Left Bank for Expo Festival sealed the venue – and seven festivals later, here we still are. Over those eight years so much has changed. In Leeds, Tetley’s packed up and left (we don’t think they were following our other festival founders when they migrated south, but you never know). There’s been no shortage of breweries lining up to fill the gaps though. These days you could pull together a decent pub crawl stopping only at tap-rooms in stumbling distance from the city centre (now, there’s an idea...) Our beer list at LS6 has always been heavy on Yorkshire. Not only because we’re avid flyers of the White Rose, or want to support local. There’s just no need to look further. Never mind the hype around the “craft beer explosion” (we’ll debate that with you over a pint of Pale). This little corner of the world is packed full of breweries that just seem to get it right.

Here at Left Bank Leeds celebrating the connections between people and our local community is at the heart of what we do. For the seventh annual LS6 Beer Festival it felt right for us to delve deeper into the world of brewing and talk to our suppliers, showcasing the people behind the craft and creating some beautiful visual material. This year we wanted to offer our guests a rare insight into who was behind making the drinks they’ll be quaffing over the weekend; passing on a familiarity about the brewers by way of Maxs’ engaging and personal style we hope that our guests enjoy getting to know the brewers as much as we have. The LS6 Beer Festival is an important marker in the year for Left Bank Leeds, one we’re very proud of and look forward to bringing to our loyal attendees - every year we see over 900 people join us to enjoy the festival. We love bringing it to you, thank you for taking part, bottoms up! Liz Ainge Left Bank Leeds - Director

That’s why we’re so excited to bring you Meet The Brewer with our seventh festival. We’re celebrating some of our favourites (we just wish we’d had space for more) with the stories of the people behind the beer. Best served with a session mild in the amazing surroundings of Left Bank. Rachel Jeffcoat LS6 Beer Festival - Founder & Director

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BRACKEN EDGE CIDER E S T. 2 0 0 8 | L E E D S | L S 8

Trying some home brewed cider sampled on a camping trip sparked an idea with Nat, followed by making a press and galvanising friends to make their own with surplus apples from their street, Bracken Edge. Far from just a means of making cheap booze, Roland, Nat and the Bracken Edge Cider cooperative have built a real community around their cider. The first few brews were drunk by the cooperative, neighbours and mates. Over time the batches grew, as did the equipment (from a branch shredder to a bike-powered macerator to semi-professional kit borrowed from Leeds Urban Harvest). Bigger brews meant more apples, and more

friends and neighbours getting involved in apple days: locusts stripping the street bare of its fruit and gathering at Rolandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with their harvest, pressing the apples during the day and drinking last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cider in the evening. Bracken Edge has been brewing for 9 years now, and until 2016 cider was only ever drunk by members of the cooperative. Last year though they provided a barrel in sponsorship for the inaugural Left Bank Cider Festival and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re delighted to have them back on the menu for LS6 Beer Fest in 2017.

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FAR FROM JUST A MEANS OF MAKING CHEAP BOOZE, ROLAND, NAT AND THE BRACKEN EDGE CIDER COOPERATIVE HAVE BUILT A REAL COMMUNITY AROUND THEIR CIDER.

BREWERS Roland Miller Nat Comber YEAR ESTABLISHED 2008 MUSIC TO BREW TO Two of the group form the band (RiverBird) so they do a set in the evening, and Jimmy usually sings too. SPIRIT ANIMAL Roland: Rabbit Nat: Tequila mocking bird or maybe a Con-Yak

Roland “By day, I’m a mental health nurse. I did a brewing course in London (my home town) in my 20s, with a view to get into brewing. I ended up in nursing instead, but it’s nice to be using that knowledge for Bracken Edge now. Cider’s not my favourite drink to be honest, but it’s an enjoyable process and much more sociable than home brewing beer.”

Nat “I’ve been home brewing beer for years, cider was a new thing for me starting this with Roland and our friends. I’m an electrician and builder by trade, trying your hand at something and just figuring it out comes with the territory for both of us, I think.”

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(Photo credit: Bracken Edge)

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Graeme Rothery is a multi-faceted man. Morris dancer, landscape painter, all-round adventurer… oh, and head brewer for relative newcomers, Bradford Brewery who’ve been on the scene since around 2015 and are at the head of the city’s burgeoning ale scene, the first company to be brewing in the centre for over 60 years. After seven years in Scotland and Snowdonia teaching outdoors skills with the Outward Bound Trust, Graeme has been back in his native Saddleworth for 4 years. He’s not left the outdoors behind, though: he can often be found on long walks in the Lakes, with baby son Alphin in tow. (Keen eyed fans of Bradford’s output might recognise that name: Alphin’s Black IPA was brewed to wet the baby’s head…)

Yorkshire is at the core of everything that Bradford Brewery do. Graeme lights up when asked about how the region inspires his brewing: “It has a special influence. From our Northern Soul, a traditional Yorkshire bitter, through Odsal Top, a malt-heavy Northern brown ale, and Hockney Pale named for one of Bradford’s famous sons, we wear our local heritage with pride”. This extends to links with the community, too. The tap room regularly hosts charity fundraisers, spent hops go to a schools allotments project, and the brewery sponsor a local LGBT football team.

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YORKSHIRE IS AT THE CORE OF EVERYTHING THAT BRADFORD BREWERY DO..

HEAD BREWER Graeme Rothery YEAR ESTABLISHED 2015 MUSIC TO BREW TO The Follk Show SPIRIT ANIMAL

“My favourite bit of the job is definitely brew day. Planning everything out from the raw materials, and going through the process – it has a nice rhythm to it. There’s problem solving in there, and creativity too. It’s very satisfying”

Bear

“For me, a good beer should speak for itself. The recent rise of craft beer has helped elevate the drink’s status across the board, which is no bad thing. But it’s important to market properly, not just to bearded hipsters: beer’s such a diverse drink, which should be considered alongside wine in my opinion in terms of the craft of brewing it and then pairing it with foods and so on.”

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Relative veterans Elland Brewery have been around in some form since 2002. Michael Wynnyczuk earned accolades early in his time with Elland when their superb 1872 Porter won Supreme Beer of Britain – it’s certainly one of the best beers we’ve served at LS6. Elland’s (and Michael’s) focus is on brewing “quality Yorkshire ales”, as their pump clips say. Light on gimmicks and steeped in tradition. They’re not ready to be drawn into the hop race that’s seeing many breweries producing bigger flavours, heavier ABVs and following American trends like the double IPA. Michael’s keen to focus instead on drinkability: quietly confident session beers that do their thing very well indeed. In a market stuffed with sours and DIPAs, it’s an admirable stance.

You get the sense that Elland with Michael are in for the long haul, tweaking to market demands as they go but sticking to their principles. There’s definitely some frustration there at the romanticism that the craft beer movement has brought to the profession. “People think we’re doing something special, a dream job. It’s much less romantic than that. It’s something you’ve got to be really into, it’s a commitment. I think a lot of people start and don’t realise just how much work and graft is involved. It’s tough and physically demanding, it’s dusty and wet and you’re regularly using dangerous chemicals. And that’s it: you’ll do that day in, day out. It does take a toll.”

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YOU GET THE SENSE THAT ELLAND WITH MICHAEL ARE IN FOR THE LONG HAUL, TWEAKING TO MARKET DEMANDS AS THEY GO BUT STICKING TO THEIR PRINCIPLES.

HEAD BREWER Michael Wynnyczuk YEAR ESTABLISHED 2002 MUSIC TO BREW TO None SPIRIT ANIMAL

“The job suits me because I like being by myself. You can just be left alone to get on with things, and that’s something I really like. Before working in breweries I was working in Call Centres and IT, but it wasn’t for me – I’m not the customer facing type.”

No.

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North have been doing great things for beer in Leeds for 20 years, importing worldwide beers and serving them up since the days when Kronenbourg 1664 was considered exotic. Now, it’s hard to believe their brewery and tap have only been open a couple of years with ales like Sputnik, Transmission and Full Fathom 5 established as stalwarts on any night out in the city. Seb Brink has been at North Brewing Co for a year and a half. Before that he combined teaching music with brewing as Golden Owl – a home-brew project that supersized as drinkers in the city couldn’t get enough of Seb’s beers, which took British tradition and infused it with the big flavours coming from the States. North have a core range of five beers, but having the brewery tap to hand to test small batches lets Seb get

a bit creative with flavours. This suits Seb well: he’s always wanted to work with food and flavours, at one point harbouring ambitions to be a baker. “Essentially I’m a bit greedy: I want to eat and drink nice things. That’s how I got into homebrewing – I wanted to brew beer I loved drinking. So I’m pretty set up in this job.” That bit of experimentation comes across into North’s core range when it works really well: Full Fathom 5 being a perfect example, adding coffee backbone and coconut depth to porter in a combination that just works. With trends in beer changing on a seemingly monthly basis, this lets North keep up with the pack whilst continuing to improve on their core range.

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THAT’S HOW I GOT INTO HOMEBREWING – I WANTED TO BREW BEER I LOVED DRINKING. SO I’M PRETTY SET UP IN THIS JOB

HEAD BREWER Seb Brink YEAR ESTABLISHED 2015 MUSIC TO BREW TO Jazz Milestones SPIRIT ANIMAL

“I enjoy the process of making and creating things, the puzzle of how to take the ingredients and turn it into something delicious that suits your palate.”

Amoeba

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Taking inspiration from centuries-old monastic brewing techniques, and bringing progressive ingredients and techniques, Northern Monk’s notoriety belies its tender years, brewing since 2013. Head brewer Brian Dickson got into beer whilst working at one of Yorkshire’s best established real ale havens: the Grove in Huddersfield. Interest in the music degree he was studying for at the time started to wane as an interest in the craft of real ale grew, and Brian went to learn his trade at a number of breweries up and down the country. A conversation at a beer festival with buddy Russell (now Northern Monk-in-chief) happened, and the rest is history.

Along with the punchy flavours and slick branding they’re known for, Northern Monk are big on collaboration. With other breweries, for sure, but just as much with local artists, businesses and more unexpected corners too. Brian’s been working with the University recently: “There’s an amazing collection of old brewing books at the Brotherton library. We’re looking to recreate an old traditional recipe in partnership with the uni. We’re about more than the beer here: we love where we come from, we’ve always celebrated that in our branding but now we’re getting more successful we’re always looking for ways to give something back working with local partners.”

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WE’RE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR WAYS TO GIVE SOMETHING BACK WORKING WITH LOCAL PARTNERS

HEAD BREWER Brian Dickson YEAR ESTABLISHED 2013 MUSIC TO BREW TO Ska Punk! SPIRIT ANIMAL Probably a dog !

“What do you need to be a brewer? An eye for detail, and a good work ethic. It’s 5% brewing and 95% cleaning. Don’t expect to be rich, but it can be immensely satisfying.”

“We’re getting distribution all over the UK and even worldwide now. We like to think we’re playing our part in spreading the word: Yorkshire’s a worldwide hub for brewing these days.”

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“I’m always learning”. Ridgeside’s head brewer Matt Lovatt worked in libraries before turning his hand to beer. “As a brewer, there’s always the potential for incremental improvement - with no final point on it, it becomes a running continual thing.” Matt’s been brewing for 9 years. First as a home brewer, then joining various breweries to help out on brew days, before being offered work at Kirkstall Brewery four years ago. Established in Meanwood in 2010 and long time supplier to local pubs like the Myrtle Tavern, Ridgeside are now supplying far and wide with their core range including an oatmeal stout, an all-american hopped

pale, and their session Jailbreak throwing a spotlight on the Nelson Sauvin hops’ gooseberry character (fun fact: this hop is named after sauvignon blanc wine). Risgeside’s reputation is built on these new world pales with New Zealand and American hops. Matt’s no stranger to experimentation but stops short of creating new combinations for the sake of it: “we did a sour with blueberry and melon, which has proven popular. But ultimately you’re trying to balance opposing flavours, acidity, fruitness and maltiness – it’s not always the right way to go. I like drinkable beer, not clever beer.”

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I’VE BEEN ELECTROCUTED IN THE BREWERY – LESSON LEARNED, MAKE SURE THERE ISN’T A HOLE IN YOUR WELLIES..!

HEAD BREWER Matt Lovatt YEAR ESTABLISHED 2010 MUSIC TO BREW TO Terry Riley SPIRIT ANIMAL

“I am a tamperer in general, and like to work out how to do things. It turned out that I got more absorbed in brewing than anything else.”

Ocelot

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Nigel Poustie isn’t just head brewer for Sunbeam. He’s also chief of marketing, sales exec, brewing assistant, and many more things. Regular Leeds drinkers might be surprised to learn that Sunbeam is a one man band, so common a sight it’s become on the city’s hand pumps in the last few years. Named after Beeston’s Sunbeam Terrace (where it was first brewed), it has been a full time operation for 2 years. “It just sort of happened, as a gradual process. I won some home brewing awards, mates started ordering, their mates started ordering and before I knew it people were finding my beers on review sites and contacting me – so I was getting online orders without even meaning to.”

Upscaling for Nigel meant moving to a house with a garage and going full time, leaving his former work in sponsored climbing behind. Even with an operation this size he’s putting out an impressive five beers every four weeks, and is focussing at the moment on establishing Sunbeam’s core range. He;s also recently started the Leeds Hops Growers Co-Op, buying and selling varieties of hops to like minded home brewers. Local produce is important to Sunbeam, with a local malts supplier too and other ingredients like elderflowers foraged or sourced from Leeds.

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MY DAD USED TO TAKE ME INTO THE PUB WHEN I WAS 15 FOR A REAL ALE, WHILST MY OTHER FRIENDS WERE IN THE PARK DRINKING CIDER

HEAD BREWER Nigel Stratton Poustie YEAR ESTABLISHED 2015 MUSIC TO BREW TO Radio 2! SPIRIT ANIMAL A port animal

“Cask real ale is a centuries old tradition in this country. For me it’s important that it’s real ale, keeping yeast in the product, to keep life in the beer.“

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John Hickling gets a lot of inspiration from being in Hebden Bridge. “Every morning we get out onto the moors, Henry [his trusty canine companion] gets a run around and I clear my head ready for the day ahead.” It’s not always been an idyllic country existence for John, though: “I realised there was more to life than spreadsheets, but got stuck in a rut working in banks. I brewed at weekends at home to relax, and realised that might be my calling. That’s where the brewery got its name, “Vocation”…” For John and Vocation, success is a combination of innovation and quality. “The market demands constant

novelty, so we need to produce beers that will intrigue drinkers to keep up. But it needs to have substance, too – I want to push my beers towards being great examples of their class”. For instance, Vocation have recently launched a range of Pilsners, a genre which leaves no room for error. As well as on taps, Vocation beers have become a familiar sight in fridges in their distinctively branded 330ml cans. They’re very proud of their Yorkshire roots but have their sights set internationally, too, with exporting high on the agenda for this year.

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MY PALATE IS PRETTY GOOD, AND SOMETHING I CONTINUALLY WORK ON BUT I STRUGGLE TO REALLY ENJOY A BEER – IT’S HARD TO SWITCH OFF SOMETIMES!

HEAD BREWER John Hickling YEAR ESTABLISHED 2015 MUSIC TO BREW TO Hutch’s (from sales) singing! SPIRIT ANIMAL Dog

“The craft beer thing is quite American - to make it as bold and punchy as possible, which is great, but subtle and refined is great as well and is an art form in itself.”

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MEET THE BREWER Commissioned by Left Bank Leeds for the 7th annual LS6 Beer Festival - 2017

PHOTOGRAPHER

Max Miechowski

CONTENT

Max Miechowski Rachel Jeffcoat Liz Ainge

O N L I N E / C O N TA C T