Nespresso Magazine #27 Dublin - English edition by Les Digitalistes

DUBLIN

Fall-Winter 2016-2017 € 5,90 SFR 7,00 £ 4.90 $ 8.00

JOSEPH O’CONNOR A CAPITAL WRITER

CITY GUIDE CLUB MEMBERS’ FAVOURITE PLACES

URBAN FARMS SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE COMES TO TOWN

GOURMET COFFEE TREATS WITH THE TASTES OF IRELAND

EDITORIAL Jean-Marc Duvoisin

DUBLINERS DEAR CLUB MEMBERS,

Welcome to Dublin! This latest issue of our magazine – published exclusively for you, our Club Members – pays homage to Ireland’s capital. This ancient city now thrums with infectious energy, a warm invitation for everyone to (re) discover its culture and charm. Dublin, a companionable metropolis crossed by the River Liffey, is most fittingly experienced through its people and their renowned hospitality. Eight Dubliners – Club Members, like you – sketch an intimate portrait of their city through their favourite sites and sights. In this issue, you will also meet the capital’s top talents – dancers, choreographers, artisans, chefs, expert athletes – who provide insight into Dublin’s creative, innovative, avant-garde spirit. These streets are also the wellspring of Irish literature, pouring forth from the pens of influential authors, whose words win over readers worldwide. The works of Joseph O’Connor, our Citizen of Honour who sees Dublin as a literary heroine, are published in more than forty languages. And though green coffee trees might seem a distant dream when standing on the docks overlooking the bay, let us not forget that Ireland is the birthplace of Irish Coffee! The celebrated concoction, invented one evening in October 1943 on the island’s west coast, embodies the special relationship this country has with coffee. Coffee culture is spreading swiftly across the Republic of Ireland, where consumption is balanced between tea and coffee due to the Irish desire for quality espresso. Inside this issue, Nespresso also unveils the new design of the legendary CitiZ, “ready-to-give” boxed sets and the opening of the new Café Nespresso in London. As the festive season draws near, the curtain opens on the Limited Edition Variations 2016, which, this year, celebrate delectable liaisons between coffee and outstanding Austrian pastry recipes. May your reading and your coffee both offer you memorable moments, JEAN-MARC DUVOISIN

Chief Executive Officer, Nestlé Nespresso S.A.

TOGO sofa. Design: Michel Ducaroy. Catalogue: www.ligne-roset.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Our Team BORIS CORIDIAN Editor-in-Chief

A food writer for French magazines and newspapers such as Vanity Fair, Le Monde and Les Échos, Boris travels the world in search of new taste sensations to share with the masses through his Instagram account, @boriscoridian. His last great coffee moment? “A cup of Livanto with young chefs from Dublin, a positive, proactive bunch!”

MICKAËL A. BANDASSAK Photographer

Based in Paris and Montreal, he has photographed the greatest restaurants for many publications, like The New York Times and Omnivore. He recently finished production of the first cookbook from Canadian chef Martin Juneau. “What I remember most about Dublin is a quite unique coffee moment, surrounded by landscapes in every shade of green. I wasn’t expecting to experience such serenity in such an effervescent city.”

STÉPHANE REMAEL Photographer

His work, a mix of photo documentary and artistic expression, has been exhibited or published in the international press for fifteen years. His photographic philosophy is human-centred and narrative-focused, with dense, cinematographic lighting. “I like the fruity notes of Rosabaya de Colombia, to unplug from the world during a coffee break in the sun.”

NESPRESSO MAGAZINE is published by the Nestlé Nespresso S.A. Group. Avenue de Rhodanie 40 1007 Lausanne - Switzerland PUBLICATION Jean-Marc Duvoisin. EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lise Peneveyre. CONCEPT/PRODUCTION LAGARDÈRE CUSTOM PUBLISHING, 9, place Marie-Jeanne Bassot, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France. Tel.: +33 (0)1 41 34 93 63 EXECUTIVE MANAGER Pascal Laroche. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Boris Coridian. ART DIRECTION Virginie Oudard. STUDIO MANAGER Matthieu Carré. COORDINATORS Nadine Male Hershkovitch with Lucie Lerat. EDITORIAL SECRETARIES Marie-Françoise Dufief with Lucie Meyrou. CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Mickaël A. Bandassak, Jérôme Bilic, Juliette de Cadoudal, Stéphanie Durteste, Éric Flogny, Elysabeth François, Nadia Hamam Marty, Gaëtan Heuzé, Icinori, Guillaume Jan,Thierry Lepin, Marie Leteuré, Kim Levy, Lauren Mortimer,Anne O’Byrne, Stéphane Remael.

NADIA HAMAM MARTY Journalist

VIRGINIE OUDARD Artistic Director

Having been a freelance graphic designer for four years and after ten years of working with women’s magazines, she here handles the artistic direction of Nespresso Magazine for the second time. “Dublin’s ambiance is really exuberant, the perfect source of inspiration! But I get my energy from an Envivo Lungo at breakfast and a Livanto after lunch.”

GUILLAUME JAN Journalist and writer

This man, a true world traveller, has spent time in almost every coffeeproducing country on the planet, from Indonesia to Peru, from Yemen to Brazil to Cuba. “I rediscovered Irish Coffee in Dublin. It’s the perfect drink to make on a winter evening, with a Livanto.”

For this pioneering researcher who has worked with Sport & Style, L’Express Styles and Maison&Objet publications, lifestyle is a realm of shifting stylistic sands and merits close attention. Design, well-being, hospitality, dining, art – the challenge is to understand a society at a given moment, the better with which to detect future trends. “I’m ever-alert, but also ever-faithful to a Linizio Lungo, served black at breakfast time.”

TRANSLATION TagLine. PHOTOLITHO Lagardère Publicité. PRINTER Mohn media Mohndruck Gmbh.

This magazine is printed on paper certified by

© Copyright © 2016 Nestlé Nespresso S.A. All rights reserved. Nespresso, the names of the various Nespresso coffee varieties and the Nespresso logos mentioned in the Nespresso Magazine are trademarks of the Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. that may be registered in certain countries.

DR.

CONTENTS Fall-Winter 2016-2017

P.14

P.30

P.58

P.68

P.82

P.88

P.48

P.72

P.90 3

EDITORIAL

Mickaël A. Bandassak, Jérôme Bilic, Stéphane Remael, Éric Flogny.

CULTURE ACROSS THE PLANET THE N MOMENT

CITY GUIDE

CITIZEN OF HONOUR

JOSEPH O’CONNOR: A TALE OF ONE CITY OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

GREAT GETAWAYS WOMEN’S RUGBY

URBAN CULTURE

FERTILE ASPHALT FIELDS

COFFEE TIME

EIGHT CLUB MEMBERS SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE PLACES 28 MUST SEE 10 REASONS TO GO TO DUBLIN 30

CINEMA

BOXED SETS

NEWS

SELECTION

CULT OBJECT

THE PERFECT PINT

CALENDAR

DESTINATION: DUBLIN 14

TREASURE ISLAND

NOW 8

CHEFS TO WATCH

THE DAY IRISH COFFEE TOOK OFF 68

LOCAL FIGURE

BREANDÁN DE GALLAÍ: A BALLET REVOLUTION 72

SAVOIR-FAIRE

PAST CRAFTING FUTURE 82

GOURMET COFFEE

HOME SWEET HOME

NESPRESSO & YOU 88

SISTER SCRUM

AN EXTRAORDINARY STORY

LIFESTYLE

CITIZ SHINES BRIGHT

NESPRESSO TALENTS 2016: QUIET ON THE SET! THE SPIRIT OF GIVING VIENNESE VARIATIONS, CAFÉ NESPRESSO IN LONDON MACHINES & COLLECTIONS RECIPES

FOOD-COFFEE PAIRINGS INFORMATION

ADDRESSES AND THE DUBLIN CITY GUIDE MAP COFFEE MARK

JOSEPH O’CONNOR

NOW Europe

IRELAND AN ODE TO SLOW TRAVEL

CREATIVE LATITUDES

Newly born, but already a legend! A vintage exterior in midnight blue and silver, an interior inspired by Dublin’s Georgian architecture: welcome aboard the Belmond Grand Hibernian, the country’s first luxury train. This unusual, rolling boutique hotel takes you deep into the Ireland of lore and yore. It has twenty cabins with bath, two dining cars and an observatory car, all steeped in

WHETHER IN ART, DESIGN OR FASHION, INSPIRATION CARES NOTHING FOR TIME ZONES. WHEREVER ON EARTH YOU MAY BE, YOU WILL FIND SOMETHING TO APPRECIATE IN OUR CULTURAL CALENDAR. By Nadia Hamam

subtle, harmonious colours and textures, a respectful nod to the country’s county tartans. The picture windows afford views across countless shades of green – moors, lakes, forests – that are echoed in the interior décor. While away the hours in reverie as you roll along; explore the land on excursions at each stop. Tour historic towns and castles, watch the wildlife and sip venerable whiskeys on two-, four-, or six-night journeys from Dublin, in the Republic of Ireland or to Northern Ireland. Hurry to enjoy this unhurriedness. > www.belmond.com

JPA Design London.

NOW Europe ENGLAND HAPPY ANNIVERSARY, KELLY HOPPEN!

The British designer is celebrating forty years in the business with her Retrospective collection. In collaboration with the Resource Decor Studio, she has designed a hundred pieces – from furniture to lighting to armchairs – in sensual textures, neutral colours and striking lines. Hoppen’s life, travels and home serve as her sources of inspiration. > www.kellyhoppeninteriors.com

FIND TINTIN SO FASCINATING? FIND OUT IN PARIS AT FRANCE A PEN-STROKE OF GENIUS. WHY DO WE STILL ILLUSTRATOR ES IN THE GRAND PALAIS. ARTIST, WRITER, ADVERTISING THE EXHIBITION

TH DEDICATED TO HERGÉ ON DISPLAY AT THE GALERIES NATIONAL . HE WAS A VISIONARY OF THE 20 CENTURY, IN HIS – THE MAN BEHIND THE RED-HAIRED REPORTER HAD MANY GIFTS AND INTERESTS STYLISTICALLY, THE BELGIAN CARTOONIST WAS THE SPACE EXPLORATION. WAY – CAPTIVATED EQUALLY BY ANCIENT CIVILISATIONS AND palais.fr STRIP HISTORIANS. > Through 15 January 2017.www.grand COMIC BY REVERED ”) LINE CLEAR (“ CLAIRE LIGNE THE PIONEER OF

Kelly Hoppen MBE; Hergé/Moulinsart 2016; Nicolas Brodard.

SWITZERLAND VENERABLE VERBIER

Each year, starting in December, the Verbier Festival, a classicalmusic mecca, holds its annual academy auditions, some of the most stringent in the world. Out of the thousand young virtuosos from across the world trying for a spot, only thirty will ultimately join the Verbier Festival Orchestra (VFO), which has a one-third turnover in musicians each year. Since it began in 1994, the festival has become a must for devoted music lovers; Nespresso, as a main sponsor of the event, shares this passion. The 24th Verbier Festival will take place in July 2017. > www.verbierfestival.com

NOW Europe

SWITZERLAND ULYSSE NARDIN

Switzerland, though tucked in the middle of the continent, is on intimate terms with the seas and oceans – the world’s most famous marine chronometer was born there! An indispensable tool for serious seafarers since the 19th century; its creator, Ulysse Nardin (1823-1876), founded his company in 1846. When he won the Prize Medal at the 1862 International Exhibition in London, the name was the gold standard in pocket chronometers. Upon his death, his son, Paul-David, successfully took over the helm. These phenomenal timekeepers were adopted by admiralties and governments, major shipyards and

scientific organisations, all impressed by its resistance to metal expansion and the effects of pitch and roll. Over the decades, Ulysse Nardin has earned over 4,000 awards in watchmaking. The most remarkable models include the perpetual calendar watch, designed in 1996, and the Freak model, introduced in 2001, which indicates the time with its movement, rather than its hands. It is the first watch with an escapement in silicon, lighter and stronger than steel. This revolutionary process means lubricant-free operation. The iconic Marine collection is another landmark, as it firmly established Ulysse Nardin’s maritime roots while showcasing the watchmaker’s contemporary savoir-faire. The brand has earned a reputation as a pioneer by virtue of its investments in the technologies and materials of the future. This can be seen in the chronograph and Jade, two of the collection’s flagship pieces to be presented 16-20 January 2017 at the celebrated SIHH in Geneva, Switzerland, time capital of the world.

> www.ulysse-nardin.com

DR.

NOW Americas

UNITED STATES TEXAN ALCHEMY

Jacqueline Harriet, Courtesy of Laolu Senbanjo; Studio Tomp, Rotterdam; 2016 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris; chaise Phillips Courtesy Sollos.

The Tienda X store is the newest gathering place for Houston’s aesthetes. Architects Garrett Hunter and Michael Landrum have created a space clad in raw plywood, marble and red concrete for an intelligently esoteric ambiance. South-Texan baroque pieces, furniture from star designers, oriental antiques and Michoacán chandeliers eclectically blend into what’s known as “Modern Texas” style. > www.tiendaequis.com

UNITED STATES LAOLU LINES

To feel the pulsing energy of Africa in downtown New York, keep an eye on the Nike clothing and athletic shoe line customised by Laolu Senbanjo. This Nigerian visual artist, based in Lagos and Brooklyn, expresses his Yoruba culture in a bold and complex visual style he has dubbed “Afromysterics”. > www.laolu.nyc

UNITED S

TATES ART OF EVERY ILK. TO MARK THE CENTENARY FRANCIS PICABIA (1879-1953) ARE ON DISPLAY AT THE MOMA, RANGING FROM OF THE DADAIST MOVEMENT, 200 WORKS BY DADAIST PROVOCATION TO PSEUDO-CLASSICISM, FROM PHOTOREALISM TO INFORMAIMPRESSIONISM TO RADICAL ABSTRACTION, FROM L ART. THE RETROSPECTIVE, CO-ORGANISED BY THE KUNSTHAUS ZÜRICH, SHOWCASES THE ECLECTICISM AND CONTRADICTIONS OF A VERY CONTROVERSIAL ARTIST . AN EXHIBIT ENTITLED OUR HEADS ARE ROUND SO OUR THOUGHT S CAN CHANGE DIRECTION. > Through 19 March 2017. www.moma.org

BRAZIL GOOD NEWS!

Tranquillity, luxury, simplicity – in Brazil, the style of designer Jader Almeida is shaking up cultural clichés. Designs from Sollos, the firm at which he became Artistic Director in 2004, have lately been winning over Europe. In 2016, the Good News from Brazil collection was presented at the Milan Design Fair. The iconic Phillips chair in veined wood and brass has also been turning heads. > www.sollos.ind.br

NOW World LEBANON THE QUINTESSENCE OF BEIRUT

Karen Chekerdjian’s works are part design, part sculpture, fusing the beauty and brutality of her city of Beirut. The Armenian-born Lebanese designer opened a workshop-showroom in the Karantina district, a minimalist loft showcasing her streamlined jewellery designs, abstract furniture and other unique pieces, all from an artist committed to dialogue and narrative. > www.karenchekerdjian.com

GROUP, G IN SEOUL! THE YOUNG ICONIC CREATIVE PARTNERS SOUTH KOREA ODE TO WOOD. DESIGN IS THRIVIN COLLECTION EACH : PHY PHILOSO UNIQUE A WITH , ABS L BRAND, OBJECTS LED BY

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR HAN HYEON SU,

IS UNVEILING ITS . REST WOOD, THE FIRST LINE TO BE RELEASED, EXPLORES THE MANY WILL COMPREHENSIVELY INVESTIGATE A SINGLE THEME SCONCES AND RY OF SHAPES. PAPERWEIGHTS, PEN HOLDERS, WALL SHADES OF WOOD, THE POWER OF VOLUMES, THE GEOMET Y LIFE. > www.iconic-cp.com EVERYDA TO E PLEASUR BRING WILL THAT FAMILY IVE TABLEWARE FORM A BROAD-SPECTRUM, DECORAT

AUSTRALIA SOUND

AND COLOUR

Collector alert! The UE Boom 2 portable speaker, 2016 winner of an iF Gold Award for design, now comes in a customised version, Lost Time, created by Australian artist James Reka. Inspired by pop culture, cartoons and illustrations, Reka forged his visual style on the streets and trains of Melbourne.

> www.ultimateears.com. www.rekaone.com

INDONESIA MUSEUM MACAN

Behind Indonesia’s first museum of modern and contemporary art stands businessman Haryanto Adikoesoemo, who boasts a personal collection of nearly 800 works. The MACAN, set in Jakarta’s Kebon Jeruk district, will display creations by Indonesian artists, like Raden Saleh and Lee Man Fong, alongside those of international figures, such as Andy Warhol and Jeff Koons, all in a space designed by London’s MET Studio Design. Scheduled to open early 2017. > www.museummacan.org

@ Nadim Asfar. MET Studio Design Ltd. Preliminary rendering of Museum MACAN’s education area; by MET Studio Design Ltd.

NOW The N Moment

COFFEE TIME By Guillaume Jan Illustration Gaëtan Heuzé

THE SUN RISES OVER THE LIFFEY, ITS DARK WATERS RIPPLING IN THE GENTLE WIND. The first employees head

to work, eyeing the sun as it peeks out between two trailing clouds. When they pass a coffee house or tea room, they are amorously inspired by the warm, round fragrance issuing from the entrance. In recent years, in the early morning, the heady scent of coffee can be inhaled just about anywhere around Dublin. This is a new phenomenon, as the Irish are some of the world’s biggest tea consumers. Nevertheless, though they remain quite attached to their tea time, the coffee revolution has clearly taken hold of the island. On Capel Street, a sign reads, “With enough coffee, anything is possible”. A stone’s throw away, another window proclaims to be

the site of the “coffee of your dreams.” The décor is rustic and chic – wooden floor, wooden tables – and the clientele on this spring morning is rather young. “Ten years ago, you couldn’t drink anything except instant coffee in Dublin,” explains Ann, my neighbour at the counter, a pretty redhead with green eyes. “Today, coffee houses sell all kinds of coffee, and a new specialty shop opens somewhere every month.” Not to mention Nespresso’s Machines and Grands Crus, which are seeing spectacular success across the country, as the Irish are now clamouring for high-quality coffee. This lust for better beans is so powerful that Dublin was chosen by the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe to host its annual event, World of Coffee. Last June, the who’s-who of the coffee world – including coffee giants like Nespresso – gathered in the Irish capital for a symposium, an exhibition and the World Barista Championship. But how can this coffee-culture boom be explained? The manager of another coffee house tells how she quit her job in finance to open her shop in 2011. “I discovered ‘good coffee’ in traveling to other European capitals,” says this thirty-something Dublin native. She believes the coffeemania is born of the city’s becoming the European Silicon Valley starting in the 2000s, playing home to companies and workers from around the world, each bringing their culture and coffee habits. Americans want a good Americano. Australians prefer “flat white”. Mediterraneans expect a flawless espresso. And all of them want goodquality coffee in their cup. Going deeper into the country’s history, we discover that Ireland already experienced a coffee vogue in the 17th and 18th centuries, before tea took over in the 19th century, ultimately becoming the near-exclusive beverage (other than beer and whiskey, of course). Near the famous Trinity College, Louisa Earls added a café upstairs above her bookshop, Book Upstairs, in 2014. And what beverage prevails there? “Customers tend to drink coffee in the morning and tea in the afternoon,” replies the bookseller. “In fact, the two drinks are complementary, rather than competitive.” So why choose sides, when you can enjoy both? “Coffee or tea?” is no longer an existential question! n

CITY Guide

A DUBLINER THEY LOVE FRESH AIR, PUBS, RUGBY – THAT’S HOW DUBLINERS ARE! AN ENDEARING PEOPLE, YET FIERCE DEFENDERS OF THEIR REMARKABLE AND RELAXED CULTURE. EIGHT NESPRESSO CLUB MEMBERS, BOTH NATIVE AND ADOPTED DUBLINERS, SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE TASTES AND PLACES IN THE CITY, TO HELP YOU FEEL LIKE ONE OF THEIR OWN. By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak and Stéphane Remael (Opening)

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly

You’ll find all the locations listed in the City Guide on our map in the back of the magazine.

NICOLAS AND VIVIENNE, WINE MERCHANT AND PSYCHOANALYST, MEMBERS SINCE 2012 THEY SHARE A DEEP APPRECIATION FOR THE GOOD THINGS IN LIFE.

Frenchman Nicolas, who came to live in Dublin ten years ago after having travelled the world, is a wine merchant. Vivienne became a psychoanalyst after teaching French in Paris, where she first discovered Nespresso in 2003. She has fond memories of eating a crisp, flaky croissant and sipping an ARPEGGIO. Today, the couple explores the far corners of the Irish capital, their son William at their side, in search of the city’s best restaurants and artisans. Nicolas talks about coffee with the same passion he holds for the grands crus that he imports from Bordeaux or Burgundy. “I have a soft spot for the floral aromas of the BUKEELA KA ETHIOPIIA Lungo.” Vivienne, refers to her Nespresso cups as “a little affordable luxury.”

SURF & TURF LAWLOR’S BUTCHERS RATHMINES 1 CONNOLLY’S FISH COMPANY 2

“Dublin has superb butchers and fishmongers. These two vendors are close to one another and sell high-quality, fresh products. For the best meat, you must try the Wicklow lamb and seasonal game. And for seafood, the lobster, cod and razor-shells are fabulous!”

17 IRISH CHIC THE WILD GOOSE GRILL 3

“This classic restaurant sits above a pub – it has friendly service and very good Irish cuisine with a contemporary twist. It’s also a chance to enjoy the wide range of local ingredients and to see how keen Irish chefs are to present their region at its best. The wonderful wine list is one more reason to go.”

DRAUGHTY DELIGHTS GROGANS 4

“This place still has all the charm of a traditional pub and a clientele that’s a mix of locals, hipsters and passers-by. Grogans is an institution for Irish artists and authors. Check out the paintings on the walls. And the patio is a great place to lounge when the weather’s good.”

STAGECRAFT GATE THEATRE 6 THE OLYMPIA THEATRE 7

“Dublin has a thriving cultural scene. At the Gate Theatre, the works by Irish and American playwrights are always excellent. At the Olympia, we have great memories of concerts by Björk, Radiohead and The Pixies.”

NEAPOLITAN FARE MANIFESTO 5

“We love this pizzeria for the ambiance and generous portions. Chef Lucio Paduano is a native of southern Italy and is very picky about the quality of his ingredients. And plenty of folks appreciate the gluten-free menu.”

The couple explores Dublin in search of best restaurants and artisans.

“I might live in the city, but my heart’s in the country,” says Dave, a Wicklow native.

CLUB SPIRIT RDS 9

“I’m a member of the RDS (Royal Dublin Society), a club founded in 1731. I go there to watch the Leinster games. In January 2017, it will host the Showcase – Ireland’s Creative Expo®, promoting the country’s top artists, artisans and native skills.”

NATURE ON HIS DOORSTEP HERBERT PARK 8

“I need only cross the threshold of my house to enjoy this public park, one of the city’s oldest and most popular. It’s a godsend for my family, as we all really love nature. In the springtime, I like seeing the cherry blossoms against the backdrop of all the fresh greenery.”

CENTENARY M O’BRIENS qp

“This place is also near the stadium, and it’s been an institution for nearly a hundred years. On Friday nights, the crowd spills out onto the pavement, recreating an authentic Dubliner atmosphere. I’ve been going to this pub since I was 21 and I know everybody! A must.”

19 DAVE, SPORTS AGENT, MEMBER SINCE 2011 WHEN YOU’RE WITH DAVE,THE PACE IS RELENTLESS. This early bird starts

his days at 6:30 a.m. before downing his first ARPEGGIO at 8:00. On this Sunday morning, he agrees goodnaturedly to be interviewed, but soon takes his leave to participate in a mountain-biking competition in the hills above Dublin. For this native of Wicklow, a region that his compatriots call “the Garden of Ireland”, sports are much more than a passion – they’re a way of life. “I might live in the city, but my heart’s in the country,” he says with a half-smile. This father of two loves setting off for the wild landscapes near the capital to go mountain biking, play field hockey, or indulge in boxing, surfing and sailing. Before becoming a sportsmarketing agent, Dave was the manager of the Leinster rugby team (representing one of Ireland’s four provinces) and a member of the Irish Olympic sailing team. When not travelling for his job, which he loves, he strolls the streets of Dublin, his home port: “This city is amazing – it’s overflowing with things to do, with different nationalities and cultures to discover!” He guides readers to his favourite haunts.

IN THE SCRUM THE BRIDGE 1859 qs

“Not far from Aviva Stadium is this pub opened by professional rugby players, a place where you’ll really feel the zeal of the fans on game nights. Though beer flows most freely here, be sure to check out the menu, a delicious ‘gastropub’-style selection served in generous portions.”

BELLE OF THE BALL AVIVA STADIUM qq

“This is my second office; I go there for work. I really love it, because it’s where Ireland’s football and rugby teams play. It replaced the original stadium, Lansdowne Road, where I went to a legendary U2 concert!”

SO CLOSE,AND YET SO FAR RED ISLAND qd

“In my village, Skerries, one of my favourite walks is along this peninsula. It transports you into the quintessential ambiance of the Irish coast. The fish served at the Stoop Your Head pub qf is delicious and the ice cream vendor across from the pier is a local institution. Perfect for when you want to get away from the hubbub of Dublin.”

JULIE, MEDICAL SECRETARY, MEMBER SINCE 2004 WHEN JULIE INTRODUCES HERSELF, SHE IS ALMOST APOLOGETIC ABOUT NOT BEING A NATIVE DUBLINER.

“I’m English, but I’ve lived here for 29 years. I feel like the city’s adopted me,” says this medical secretary and happy mother of three grown boys. Each morning, she leaves her small town of Skerries and drives along the coast down to Dublin. For her, nature’s omnipresence, the urban quality of life and the Irish hospitality make this city “unique”. And she passed this fondness for Dublin on to her sons. The eldest became an airline pilot, but she knows he will never be far from his home base. “My son is very ‘Dublin’!” she laughs. With a perpetually mischievous gleam in her eye, she tells of her relationship with coffee: “My favourites are VIVALTO LUNGO and ROSABAYA DE COLOMBIA – I’m not a big fan of the more intense profiles.” Light and delicate Grands Crus that she nevertheless consumes four or five times a day!

21 SHOPPING FOR HISTORY AVOCA MALAHIDE STORE qh

“This café is set inside one of the stores of the Avoca chain, which sells high-quality Irish handicrafts and fine food specialities. Another point of interest: this shopping complex and restaurant are in Malahide Castle, a 12th-century edifice surrounded by lovely grounds. This is one of my favourite outings.”

BISTRO BREAK PICHET qg

“A popular, modern bistro located right downtown. I get together with my friends there to enjoy Frenchinspired dishes made with Irish ingredients. The soft lighting makes it very cosy inside, and the service is brisk and efficient.”

STREET SHOW THE BAILEY qj

“Order a drink or a pint, sit on the patio and take in the splendid spectacle of the streets of Dublin. They serve tasty, quality bar snacks, too, with ample servings.”

MUSIC AT HEART VICAR STREET qk

“This concert hall hosts both international stars and Irish musicians, and they modify the floor layout depending on the size of the act. I like listening to local artists, sitting at one of the small round tables in a cosy atmosphere, while having a drink with friends. The Irish have an incredible love of music, you know!”

Every morning, Julie travels to Dublin along the north coast.

Charlotte praises the city’s frenzied pace and quality of life.

HEARTY HIATUS THE PIGEON HOUSE sp

MADE IN IRELAND POWERSCOURT TOWNHOUSE CENTRE ql

“This Georgian-style building was the townhouse of the third Viscount Powerscourt in the 18th century. It’s sort of the festive, urban counterpart of his Wicklow residence (below). It’s now home to forty designer shops. This is the perfect place to shop for Made-in-Ireland goods, in the heart of the designer district.”

NATURALLY LUXURIOUS POWERSCOURT HOTEL sq

“This five-star hotel on the Powerscourt estate in Wicklow has a spa and a golf course. Since our country home is nearby, we go there for coffee and to take advantage of the great services.”

“At the end of every weekend, on the road to Dublin, we stop at this village restaurant. Diners can enjoy a delicious, traditional Sunday roast here. On the ground floor, there’s a bakery and a very good farmer’s market.”

DYLAN AND CHARLOTTE, OWNERS AND MANAGERS OF A HAIR SALON, MEMBERS SINCE 2007 “WATCH OUT – YOU JUST MIGHT FALL IN LOVE WITH DUBLIN!”

Dylan and Charlotte caution in unison. This rocker-style couple have lived together for 13 years. Along with their three sons, they are city dwellers during the week, but spend their weekends in the countryside. They praise the city’s frenzied pace and easy-going, affable inhabitants: “It’s a very personable city, really. And this is a great time to settle in Dublin and take advantage of the great lifestyle here. Lots of new places are opening, which makes for an exciting atmosphere.” And the couple are part of this momentum, as their hair salon has become de rigueur for Ireland’s fashion set. Every weekend, though, after a fast and furious workweek – Charlotte admits roguishly to drinking eight to ten VOLLUTO a day at the salon! – the family escapes to the south, with its long stretches of beach and unspoilt nature.

BREAKFAST TO DINNER BALFES ss

“Balfes is the brasserie at the Westbury Hotel. I eat breakfast there after my workout and before heading to work. I recommend their salmon omelette, the perfect start to the day.”

A CUT ABOVE DYLAN BRADSHAW SALON sd

“We started our business with just five employees. Today, the salon has 72 chairs! Dylan worked for the fashion press and now brings in a stylish, international clientele. For us, Dublin was the obvious place to live, instead of New York or London – it’s here we call home.”

NASREDDIN, RESTAURATEUR, MEMBER SINCE 2007 HE IS UTTERLY AT HOME IN DUBLIN’S NESPRESSO BOUTIQUE.

The former aerospace engineerturned-restaurateur knows everyone at the establishment on Duke Street, a pedestrian avenue he visits regularly. This Libyan-born Irishman landed in the capital 33 years ago for his university studies and came to love urban life; nowadays, he’s especially fond of the cheerful bustle of Grafton Street, his usual shopping district. “I’m just not made for purely rural living – I need to make my daily rounds of the downtown stores!” he explains in his booming voice. This coffee-lover never fails to sip a VOLLUTO, his pet Grand Cru, when he visits the Nespresso team, with whom he’s on friendly, firstname terms.

TEMPLE OF TASTE FALLON & BYRNE sf

“A wine bar in the basement, a restaurant upstairs, a food hall on the ground floor: Dublin’s trendy crowd loves this temple of good taste! I suggest getting a hot beverage and a pastry at the Deli in the back of the store, after the fruit and vegetable section. Irresistible!”

25 FEELING AT HOME NESPRESSO BOUTIQUE

“There’s no two ways about it: this Boutique is part of my life! The staff are so friendly; there’s warm hospitality. It’s spacious and spans two floors, with ingenious interior design and a pleasant ambiance. I’ve purchased more than fifty machines in my life – for my employees, my family, my friends.”

SIZABLE SHOPPING BROWN THOMAS sg

Nasreddin never tires of the boisterous bustle of Grafton Street’s stores.

“If you go shopping, be sure to visit this traditional department store in the pedestrian zone of Grafton Street. It carries all the big brand names, including Nespresso, and I’d recommend a trip to the dedicated menswear floor. And the rooftop terrace, when you’re ready for a break.”

HAIR TODAY, GONE TOMORROW THE GRAFTON BARBER sh

“True gentlemen visit my barber! Just sit in one of the vintage chairs and enjoy a relaxing moment of pampering. I’ve been going there for so long that I no longer even need to talk! And you might just see an Irish or international celebrity.”

SATISFYING STROLLS SAINT ANNE’S PARK sj

“Among the city’s many parks, I recommend visiting Saint Anne’s Park, north of Dublin, across from Bull Island. It has some surprising architectural highlights and a river that runs right down the middle, making for beautiful, interesting walks.”

26 ARTY TEA PARTY THE MERRION HOTEL sl

“I think this is the most magnificent hotel in Dublin. It’s a five-star, with the Georgian architecture so characteristic of the late 18th century and works of art in every guest room and common area. My advice: go enjoy an “Art Tea Afternoon” there, when the pastries are fashioned to resemble the painting collection.”

ICONIC PINT THE STAGS HEAD sk

“This is the place I recommend to my foreign friends visiting Dublin. It has everything you’d expect in a traditional pub: warm ambiance, authentic decor, quality service. What more could you ask for?”

EXPLORING GENIUS DUBLIN CITY GALLERY – THE HUGH LANE CHARLEMONT HOUSE dp

“You have to visit this museum, both for the French Impressionists and for Francis Bacon’s studio. They have faithfully reproduced the workspace of this Dublin-born English painter, and the studio’s chaotic character echoes his tortured art.”

HONOURABLE MENTION TRINITY COLLEGE dq

“Trinity College is the beating heart of Dublin. Any tour of the city should start with a trip around its grounds. Not to mention the massive library, with more than six million books, and the galleries, which are open to visitors. But, if you’re a student, don’t walk under the Campanile when the bell tolls, otherwise you’ll fail your exams!”

From here, Natasha can easily travel to America or Europe.

FASHIONABLY IRISH SCOUT ds

“I often check out this shop’s collections. They have a selection of wellmade clothing and vintage accessories and the best of Irish fashion design. It’s my one and only reason for going into the very touristy Temple Bar district!”

NATASHA, JEWELLERY DESIGNER, MEMBER SINCE 2009 THIS YOUNG WOMAN WAS BORN IN THE IRISH CAPITAL, but grew up

in the Netherlands. She returned to her homeland to study business and economics at Trinity College before moving to New York. It was in The City That Never Sleeps that Natasha, having become a fashion and beauty journalist, took a new career path and earned her gemologist degree. But it was in Dublin that she opened her fine jewellery design studio and started her company. In her customary swift, precise speech, she explains how she works with pearls and precious stones. A cup of ROSABAYA DE COLOMBIA in hand, with the pale pink metallic capsule she so admires, Natasha shows us one of her ingenious jewellery creations, worn around her neck. In one easy motion, it turns into a necklace and bracelet set. The former globetrotter and future bride (our meeting was two weeks before the Big Day) never even considered settling anywhere but Dublin. “From here, I can easily travel to America or Europe. Dublin is a creative melting pot. It’s uniquely dynamic, but still has a very relaxed lifestyle.”

Ten Reasons to go to DUBLIN IN IRELAND’S CAPITAL, THE STREETS, PUBS AND PUBLIC PLACES COME ALIVE WITH EVERY CULTURAL CELEBRATION. HERE ARE TEN NOT-TO-BE-MISSED EVENTS BETWEEN NOW AND NEXT SUMMER. GOOD VIBRATIONS GUARANTEED! By Kim Levy Photo Stéphane Remael

MUST See

12.2016

02.2017

05.2017

HOLIDAY HORSING AROUND

FOOD FIESTA

DANCING IN THE STREETS

As the year comes to a close, Dubliners love going to the races at the Leopardstown Racecourse. Four days of events, sports-centred with high-society chic, offer a full spectrum of equine entertainment: Opening Day, with all its pomp and fanfare on 26 December, with impressive jumps racing the next day. On the 28th, a veritable parade of colourful hats for Ladies’ Day, then the Lexus Chase, one of the most prestigious races. On the 29th, a concert ends the festival. This tradition has remained alive and well since... 1888! > The Christmas Festival, 26-29 December 2016 at the Leopardstown Racecourse. www.leopardstown.com

01.2017 PARLIAMENTARY PERFORMANCE

The Temple Bar Company, the cultural and merchants’ association of the district of the same name, aims high when it comes to organising the country’s biggest traditional music festival. With the city’s support, the event generally takes place at unusual sites, such as Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, the Hugh Lane Gallery, the Wax Museum and even Ireland’s former House of Lords! Gaelic harpists and singers, folk acts and rock groups offer rare performances in these unexpected settings. > Temple Bar TradFest, 25-29 January 2017. www.templebartrad.com

The Dine in Dublin Restaurant Week is a great way to explore the capital’s gallery of gastronomic delights. Each year, about sixty establishments offer giveaways, special events, value offers and more. Some of the city’s best eateries are “on the menu”: Fallon & Byrne, Pichet, Ladurée… where you can enjoy Nespresso Grands Crus. > Dine in Dublin Restaurant Week, 20-26 February 2017, at select restaurants.

SILVER SCREEN ON THE EMERALD ISLE

The Dublin International Film Festival has been presenting its awards for fifteen years. A number of the city’s movie theatres are reserved to screen and promote the works presented to the jury. It’s a wonderful way to sample the best in Irish cinema and the latest international releases. > Dublin International Film Festival, 16-26 February 2017. Schedule and reservations available starting early 2017. www.diff.ie

03.2017 GOING GREEN

Saint Patrick’s Day is a worldwide tribute to Ireland. In Chicago, Illinois, USA, great volumes of green dye are dumped into the Chicago River… but nothing beats the festivities in Dublin! The city is set entirely ablaze with powerful green lights, creating a vibrantly verdant ambiance for revellers. > Official Saint Patrick’s Day celebrations, 16-19 March 2017. www.stpatricksfestival.ie

Contemporary dance is booming in the Irish capital. In 2016, the official line-up at the Dublin Dance Festival explored powerful social themes such as migration, femininity and Greece’s political situation in works by local and international choreographers. But the street is also where Dubliners experience this national passion first-hand by enjoying impromptu performances. > Dublin Dance Festival, 15-27 May 2017 (dates not yet final). www.dublindancefestival.ie

06.2017 THREE-DAY SAIL

In Ireland, the first Monday in June is a public holiday, extending the preceding weekend to a sailing celebration when regattas can be observed from the Dublin docks. A moment of pure poetry, with tall ships cruising along the Liffey. > Dublin Port River Fest, 3-5 June 2017, on the river docks. www.dublinriverfest.com

STREET LUNCHEON

One Sunday a year, all over Ireland, you can enjoy a home-cooked meal in public places, with friends or friendsto-be. This Street Feast, now with 20,000 faithful supporters, gains gastronomic momentum every year. Some places have made the concept a way of life, like the Fusion Sundays World Culture Markets: guests bring an international dish to share with their table neighbours. > Street Feast, 11 June 2017. www.streetfeast.ie > Fusion Sundays World Culture Market, every second Sunday of the month, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m., Dublin Food Co-op. www.facebook.com /fusionsundaysmarket

LIVING LIKE ULYSSES

“Bloomsday” is named after Leopold Bloom, the main character of James Joyce’s masterpiece, Ulysses. On this day, everything is done to reproduce the look and feel of 16 June 1904, the date the plot unfolds. People dress in Edwardian-era clothing, recite book passages in the streets and sample the dishes described in the tome’s thousand pages. Joyce himself said he wanted to paint such a complete picture of Dublin that, were any catastrophe to befall the capital, “it would be possible to rebuild the entire city, brick by brick, using Ulysses.” > Bloomsday Festival, 16 June 2017, from 8:00 a.m. on, beginning at the James Joyce Centre. www.bloomsdayfestival.ie

08.2017 QUEENS OF THE OVAL BALL

Dublin will be the site of the first part of the Women’s Rugby World Cup. During the group stage, twelve countries will compete in groups of four, with the best qualifying for the finals matches in Belfast. The shamrock-wearing players will be defending their country on their own pitches, with hopes of defeating the English defending champions! > Women’s Rugby World Cup, starting 9 August 2017 at University College Dublin. www.rwcwomens.com

Joseph O’Connor A TALE OF ONE CITY JOSEPH O’CONNOR, A KEY FIGURE IN CONTEMPORARY IRISH LITERATURE, HAS CRAFTED A SUBSTANTIAL BODY OF WORK. THE NOVELIST PLACES HIS FELLOW IRISH IN STORIES OF A CHANGING WORLD AND PATIENTLY CHRONICLES THE DUBLIN OF YESTERDAY AND TODAY. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

CITIZEN of honour

FIVE TURNING POINTS FOR JOE O’CONNOR Born in Dublin. Decides to become a writer after reading J.D. Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye. 1991 Publishes his first novel, Cowboys and Indians, followed by his first collection of short stories, True Believers. 1995 Meets English television and film writer Anne-Marie Casey, with whom he has two sons. 2014 The Thrill of It All is published in Ireland and the United Kingdom. He begins teaching Creative Writing at the University of Limerick. 1963 1976

THE CITY OF DUBLIN IS A LITERARY HEROINE.WITH EACH NEW GENERATION, DOZENS OF TALENTED WRITERS BURST FORTH FROM THIS LIVELY, DYNAMIC CAPITAL. Though it has

fewer than 600,000 inhabitants, the city has played host to four Nobel laureates in literature in the last century. Here, authors of novels, short stories, plays and poems are respected and recognised. It’s not uncommon to see a pub patron absorbed in the pages of Ulysses, James Joyce’s arduous masterpiece, or to hear a police officer quote one of the nation’s poets. Or – yes, it happened! – to meet a taxi driver reading the latest novel by Joseph O’Connor, when, in fact, we’d hailed the cab that morning to take us to our interview with that very person. “My parents always made an effort to expose us to culture, especially literature,” recalls the 53-year-old writer. “In those days, back in the 1970s, Ireland was still a poor country. Playwrights, novelists and poets were viewed as the land’s only true resources. The only Irish who saw any success in life were writers.” Considered one of the most important writers of his generation, Joseph O’Connor has published twenty books since 1991 – mainly novels and short-story collections, but also plays, a travelogue and a few chronicles of the times. Sensitive,

spirited, finely wrought tales brimming with good ideas in which humour and melancholy intertwine to great effect, O’Connor’s books forge complicity with readers and, at times, disturbs them as well. The characters pouring forth from this explorer of the human soul are multifaceted, never unambiguous. They drink, they lie, they’re conniving or simply untrustworthy, they’re fragile, they’re windy braggarts when, in fact, their lives are a mess, they yearn to change their lives, they’re dumped by lovers… but they are all alive. Masterfully alive. In 2002, after five acclaimed books (in which the protagonists are almost always Dubliners), O’Connor published Star of the Sea, a complex, exciting work of fiction that follows a group of Irish natives on their Atlantic crossing as they flee the terrible famine of 1847. The novel became a bestseller within months. Over 800,000 copies were sold the year it was released and translations popped up on every continent. Having become world-famous, O’Connor published other, equally subtle and lavish books, from thick novels to short stories spanning a few pages. In 2014 came publication of The Thrill of It All, his latest opus, recounting the meteoric rise and dramatic fall of a rock band, Ships in the Night, in the 1980s. The group is fictitious, but the artists with whom these

PAD AND PEN

The author takes notes for his next novel on a daily basis.

musicians cross paths (including David Bowie, Joe Strummer, Tom Waits, Nick Cave and Patti Smith) do – or did – exist and their world is aptly described. Still, it is less a book about rock as it is a story of friendship, love, betrayal. A touching story of humanity, with a grandiose, unexpected denouement. The Thrill of It All, Joseph O’Connor’s most recent success story, has, to date, been translated into 44 languages. DYLAN DEVOTEE, PATTI SMITH ENTHUSIAST

“Music plays a major role in my life,” says O’Connor in his deep, crooner’s voice. Though he claims interest in everything from Celtic harp to French electropop and from American soul to Seventies punk, the writer remains a faithful fan of Bob Dylan and Patti Smith, artists he listens to nearly every day. In fact, he has his own guitar and occasionally plays with his two sons, James and Marcus. “But I couldn’t be called a musician,” he quickly clarifies. “Though sometimes, at night, I dream of being one. A few weeks ago, I dreamed I was getting ready to go on stage with the Beatles. Backstage, John Lennon asked me what the chords were to ‘She Loves You’, because he’d forgotten them.” •••

WHERE MIGHT YOU ENCOUNTER O’CONNOR IN DUBLIN? ULYSSES RARE BOOKS dd

“A bookstore specialising in 20th-century Irish literature. It has a wide selection of rare editions from James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, W. B. Yeats, Samuel Beckett, Seamus Heaney and other famous names.” MULLIGAN’S df

“This pub has preserved its original, authentic atmosphere. A place where you can talk, read, contemplate or be alone, if you wish. James Joyce used to come here.”

THE LITTLE MUSEUM OF DUBLIN dg

“This eccentric and charming museum traces Dublin’s social, cultural and political history over the course of the 20th century.” FISH SHACK CAFE dh

“For real fish ‘n’ chips or a shellfish platter to savour by the sea, come to the pretty village of Sandycove.” > You’ll find these locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

34 Though he rarely speaks of it (and never to the media), O’Connor is big brother to Sinéad O’Connor, the tempestuous pop icon who became a star in 1990 with her cover of the Prince tune ‘Nothing Compares 2 U’, made so poignant by her emotional, impassioned interpretation. Isn’t having two artists in the family a lot to handle? “There are three, in fact,” says the writer. “My other sister, Eimear, an art historian in Dublin, has also written books that are selling well in Ireland. And she plays the harp.” In the 1960s, the family with five children (three boys and two girls) lived in close quarters in a modest house in southern Dublin. His father was construction engineer, his mother a seamstress. The marriage was stormy and his parents divorced in 1975. A few months later, O’Connor discovered The Catcher in the Rye by American J.D. Salinger, a novel about adolescence or, more accurately, the disillusionment that comes with the loss of childhood innocence. “Reading this book is what made me want to become a writer. I thought it would be the noblest thing to do with my life.” He wrote his first short stories; literature rapidly became his refuge, a place where he could shut out the world, just as music would for his sister Sinéad. “When you’re a teenager, you often see art as an oasis,” he comments sagely. “I SEE MILLIONS OF WORDS”

From then on, Joseph O’Connor never stopped writing. He studied literature at Dublin’s University College and wrote his first articles for the campus newspaper and local dailies. He wanted to write at all costs and believed that vocation was his mission on earth. When his mother died in a car accident in 1985, he set off to wander Nicaragua for a few months, a trip that would later be captured in the inspired novel, Desperados (1993). An early memory comes to his mind: “I was 15 and was walking around Grafton Street, the shopping district. A fortune teller asked me to show her my palm. I had no money for a reading, but she told me my future anyway. She said she saw millions of words.” That was in 1978, when Dublin

“In Ireland, we dislike pretention and academicism.”

was starting to feel the first tremors of the punk explosion in England. “I have wonderful memories of that very creative time,” adds O’Connor. “Every teenager was in a rock band or a theatre troupe or was writing a novel. The city was wrapped in this positive energy, and it was in this moment that the band U2 came to be. I remember one of their first concerts – the musicians gave their instruments away to the audience, piece by piece, and Bono even gave his microphone to a spectator. After so many long, sad, austere decades, the times were a-changin’.” A MIX OF JOY AND MELANCHOLY

Nearly forty years later, the writer lives in Killiney, on the southern outskirts of Dublin. The Irish capital has come through that era of change with flying colours, having even survived the challenge of the 2008 economic crisis. It has become friendly, warm, colourful and optimistic, all while retaining its character and groundedness, even if, in certain quarters, the same standardised retail outlets found in other major European cities are briskly cropping up. “That’s just globalisation – it’s hard to avoid,” Joe concedes. “When I was a teenager, we felt isolated from the rest of the world, like victims of our island existence. But today, students fly off to spend the weekend in Barcelona or London,” he sighs. “The older I get, the happier I am to live here.” He is still partial to the sea and, more than ever, loves the distinctive character of Irish culture. “This country’s soul is a mix of joy and melancholy, something as intense as Portuguese fado. They say that the Irish are the Mediterranean people of the North – and I do indeed feel more at home in Barcelona than in Glasgow. People don’t take themselves so seriously here. In Ireland, we dislike pretention and academicism. It’s a very pleasant place to live out one’s days.” This can also be felt in the city’s written works, with local writers inspired more by American authors like Ernest Hemingway and Raymond Carver than the classics of English literature. But what makes Dublin such a literary city? “We inherited the Celtic storytelling tradition,” explains O’Connor. “And also because the island was poor and isolated for a long time, we had no other means of expression.” By appropriating the English language, Irish authors created their own style, a way to invent stories – at once tangible and direct – for a broad audience. This use of the language is what makes Irish literature so appealing, and Joseph O’Connor is one of the best illustrations of that craft. n > Warm thanks to The Dean Hotel, 33 Harcourt Street, Dublin 2

FOUR MUST-READ YOUNG IRISH AUTHORS COLIN BARRETT

“His first collection of short stories, Young Skins (Vintage, 2013), depicting Irish youth burdened by misgivings, has been compared to James Joyce’s The Dead.”

SARA BAUME

“A young writer we will surely hear more about in the coming years. Her first novel, Spill Simmer Falter Wither (Tramp Press, 2015), has won numerous awards.”

LISA McINERNEY

“A precious, imaginative gem! Her first novel, The Glorious Heresies (John Murray, 2015), won the Bailey’s Women’s Prize for Fiction, the UK’s most prestigious annual award for fiction written by women.”

PAUL MURRAY

“Skippy Dies (Hamish Hamilton, 2010) became a bestseller in Ireland and has been published in many countries, earning praise from literary figures like Donna Tartt and Bret Easton Ellis.”

ICONIC Emblematic Dublin images, including this one of the Poolbeg Generating Station’s two smokestacks.

Great GETAWAYS

TAKE A DIP (WELL, ALMOST) WITH BONO, GO ON A (PHOTO) SAFARI IN PHOENIX PARK, SURF BETWEEN SERVINGS OF FISH & CHIPS. SURPRISES ABOUND IN AND AROUND DUBLIN – HERE ARE TWELVE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE TRUE, BLARNEY-FREE IRELAND!

By Boris Coridian and Guillaume Jan Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak and Stéphane Remael

OUTDOOR Adventure

RIDE TO THE END OF THE LINE

IN THE SPACE OF A HALF-HOUR,THE TRAIN SERVING DUBLIN AND ITS SUBURBS (the DART

– Dublin Area Rapid Transit) takes you to the charming little port of Howth, a world of trawlers, seagulls, a few seals frolicking in the bay, long walks along the sea wall and a battery of pubs in which to warm yourself afterwards. In the early Eighties, when the fishing industry began to decline, the village gradually became part of the Dublin suburbs and rents climbed. But the town is still bursting with character and, today, those lucky enough to live here say they wouldn’t go anywhere else. The market, held Saturday and Sunday, is also worth the excursion.

> The port of Howth, County Dublin

GO ON A (PHOTO) SAFARI IN PHOENIX PARK THEY FROLIC BETWEEN PICNICKING FAMILIES AND CLUSTERS OF SPORTY SOULS

practicing hurling, Ireland’s national sport. Phoenix Park’s antlered animals gambol in this green lung of Dublin, twice the size of New York City’s Central Park. The deer were introduced in the 1660s by the Duke of Ormond, so that King Charles II could hunt without leaving the city. Today, however, they no longer fear approaching humans. Try to spot them on the vast, verdant expanses of the park for a wildlife photo. Here’s a tip: stay on the lookout near the Papal Cross, they’re likely to be nearby!

> Phoenix Park in Dublin. Entrances on Parkgate Street and Castleknock Gate. www.phoenixpark.ie

SHIVER AT THE HELL FIRE CLUB LEAVING THE SAFETY OF YOUR VEHICLE IN AN ISOLATED CARPARK, YOU MUST SCALE THE 383 METRES OF MONTPELIER HILL, a half-hour’s drive

south of Dublin. After a steep, 20-minute trek, the ruins of the Hell Fire Club loom into view. This former hunting lodge, built around 1725, has been tied to many paranormal episodes since the members of a secret club used it for occult gatherings in the mid-18th century. There are neither ghosts nor goblins inside, but a disquieting atmosphere reigns, making the panoramic view it offers of Dublin quite memorable. Sunsets here are sublime, but, come nightfall, be on your guard.

> The Hell Fire Club is a member of The Dublin Mountains Partnership. www.dublinmountains.ie

DIVE INTO A LAKE OF GUINNESS

A BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPE: LOUGH TAY IS ONLY 45 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN DUBLIN,

but this otherworldly lake has water as dark a pint of Guinness. You’ll need a car to reach the Wicklow Mountains National Park by the mountain pass known as Sally Gap. Here, Mother Nature is immense, raw and wild. The lakeshore is off limits, as it belongs to the Guinness family, who wisely built a home there. Hollywood has captured this rugged countryside in many productions, as well. Some of the Irish-Canadian historical drama series Vikings is shot in this magnificent setting. From the top of the mountain, which plunges steeply into the lake, one can watch the film crews at work.

> Lough Tay is near the village of Roundwood, County Wicklow. www.visitwicklow.ie

EAT ICE CREAM IN THE SPINDRIFT THIRTY KILOMETRES NORTH OF DUBLIN,THE MOST POPULAR SHOP IN THE PORT OF SKERRIES is not much bigger than

a child’s playhouse. The Storm in a Teacup ice cream stand is a magnet for regulars and passers-by nearly every day of the year. What could be the secret of the affable McCormack family, who opened this unusual enterprise in 2009? “We make everything ourselves and we use a lot of cream.” The shop also sells crêpes that you can nibble in the sun, leaning against this quaint store, watching the fishermen come back into port.

> Storm in a Teacup, Harbour Road, Skerries, County Fingal

DRINK A BEER ABOVE DUBLIN WITH MORE THAN A THOUSAND PUBS IN THE CAPITAL,WHY TRAVEL TO THIS ESTABLISHMENT

so far from downtown? Because The Blue Light Pub is a quintessential Irish pub. The building – easily spotted by virtue of its collector’s motorcycle on the roof – has a variety of indoor and outdoor spaces for enjoying a good pint. Here, it seems it’s easy to make new acquaintances in the ever-friendly atmosphere. A highlight: the terrace has an unrivalled view of Dublin.

> The Blue Light Pub, in the hills of Sandyford, County Dublin

TO REACH THIS SITE BETWEEN KILLINEY AND DÚN LAOGHAIRE

in the upmarket suburb south of Dublin, you have to cross the moor along the coast, then pick your way down a cliffside staircase. You’ll end up in this unobtrusive spot that’s perfect for those who love nature and waves. If the sea is too rough, you can still manage a few strokes in the small pool carved into the rock. Bono, U2’s charismatic vocalist, has a villa just above this magical, rugged place.

> Vico Baths on Vico Road near Hawk Cliff, Killiney, County Dublin

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

TAKE A DIP (WELL, ALMOST) WITH BONO

41 SURF BETWEEN SERVINGS OF FISH & CHIPS OK, SO THE IRISH SEA ISN’T THE SAME COLOUR AS THE PACIFIC OCEAN. But the waves rolling up onto its long, sandy beaches are just

as magnificent as those on islands at the ends of the earth. Ireland’s east coast also has several surfing spots for wave-riders: courageous people in wetsuits, each with a thick board under the arm, are hardly put off by the chilly waters and unpredictable elements. Men and women, youngsters and grownups, all with faces reddened by the spray, eventually end their surf sessions and warm themselves up with some comforting fish & chips (a nice change of pace from coconuts).

> The surf spots nearest Dublin: Brittas Bay (County Wicklow) and Tramore (County Waterford, pictured)

WALK ON WATER IN DUBLIN,THE LOCALS ARE VERY FAMILIAR WITH THIS PROMENADE, but it is little-known to visitors. It starts at the foot of the city’s two symbolic smokestacks. You then walk along the jetty for one and a half kilometres to the Poolbeg Lighthouse that shines its light over the bay. Take care to not trip on the uneven paving stones! After this walk between two expanses of water, you’ll be well rewarded by the panoramic view of the city. The cry of seagulls is your soundtrack. Magical!

> Poolbeg Lighthouse at the end of the Great South Wall Walk, Dublin

FEED ON FARM-FRESH FARE AIRFIELD, TWENTY MINUTES FROM THE CAPITAL, is a way for Dubliners

to reconnect with Mothers Nature and Earth. On these 38 acres, preserved by a charitable foundation formed by the wealthy Overend family in 1974, visitors can stroll the vegetable garden and greenhouses, pet the goats, gather fresh eggs in the morning or watch the cows being milked. Overends, the restaurant on this “public” farm, serves tasty cuisine made with ingredients grown or raised onsite.

> Airfield in Dundrum, on the southern outskirts of Dublin. www.airfield.ie

SKIM THE WATERS DOWNTOWN THE GRAND CANAL IS A TRANQUIL OASIS IN DOWNTOWN DUBLIN.

This recently renovated quarter is home to many buildings with spectacular architecture, like the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre and the Marker Hotel. At the end of the canal, though, you’ll discover a world of flying bodies and splashing water: a cable wakeboard centre gives everyone the chance to try out this sport, a modified version of water-skiing. Wakeboarders, pulled along a cable, can perfect their jumps on the Wakedock ramps.

> Grand Canal Dock, Dublin. www.wakedock.ie

HURTLE DOWN THE SLOPES ON TWO WHEELS DUBLINERS ARE SPORT NUTS.

And, for the most intrepid among them, there is an incredible playground at hand: the Dublin Mountains, south of the city. Extreme cyclists gather on the slopes of Ticknock, where they guide their handlebars to zigzag their way steeply down through trees and rocks. Another site with wonderful views of the capital.

> Ticknock is a member of The Dublin Mountains Partnership. www.dublinmountains.ie

WOMEN’S Rugby

SISTER SCRUM

GREEN GIANTS

Aviva Stadium, home to the national rugby and football teams, can hold 50,000 spectators.

KIM AND STACEY FLOOD PROUDLY WEAR THE GREEN JERSEY OF THE IRISH WOMEN’S RUGBY TEAM. THE TWO SISTERS TELL US ABOUT THEIR LIVES AS TOP-LEVEL ATHLETES IN A COUNTRY WHERE THE OVAL BALL IS AN OBJECT OF WORSHIP. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

THEY ARE SIDE BY SIDE AS THEY STRETCH: THE SISTERS EXCHANGE A FEW WORDS, THEN BURST OUT LAUGHING.

“There’s no rivalry between us – just the thrill of competition,” declares Kim.

They wear the same green jersey and have the same blue eyes; one is brunette, the other is blonde. Kim and Stacey Flood are sisters and both play on the national women’s rugby team. The former plays both Sevens and 15s; the latter focuses on Sevens. Both sports are played on the same pitches with similar rules, the main distinction being the number of athletes on the playing field: fifteen a-side for traditional rugby, and, logically, only seven for Sevens, which requires strenuous physical effort and great technical versatility. The shorter Sevens rugby games are often spectacular and are drawing growing numbers of fans. When we met in the spring of 2016, Kim and Stacey were training for the Rio Olympics, where they hoped to represent their country. “This is the first time sisters have played together on an advanced-level rugby team in Ireland,” says Kim, the 26-year-old brunette. She works for a Bank of Ireland insurance company and negotiates with her boss to have time to train at least four afternoons a week. Stacey, the 19-year-old blonde, is studying computer science in a commercial context. She, too, makes arrangements with her school to juggle her classes and high-level sport commitments. Generally speaking, both employers and professors are easy-going about scheduling, as they know that these Olympic hopefuls represent Ireland in important rugby matches. And, in this country, rugby is more than a sport – it’s an emblematic national pastime. SEEING THE WORLD

The two sisters still live with their parents in a quiet section of Dublin known as Sandymount. It’s a close family in which everyone loves sports: Mr and Mrs Flood, a movie props man and a “lollipop lady” (helping children to cross the road before and after school), respectively, have long enjoyed rowing and still take part in fast and furious ping-pong matches with their six children. The four daughters of this brood all played Gaelic

GAELIC GAMES

ALONGSIDE RUGBY AND FOOTBALL, TRADITIONAL IRISH SPORTS ARE STILL WIDELY PRACTICED THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY. GAELIC FOOTBALL

On pitches like those used for rugby, two teams of fifteen must score tries or goals. Both hands and feet can be used.

GAELIC HANDBALL

Akin to squash and Basque pelota: two players hit the ball against a wall with their gloved hands. ROUNDERS

HURLING

Hurling, a blend of hockey and rugby, is a fast-paced (the ball reaching 110 km/h) and dangerous (that hurley can hurt) sport. Camogie is the women’s variant.

This ancestor of baseball is a bat-and-ball game, the object of which is to score a point by hitting the ball, then ultimately going around the four bases without being put “out”.

football, one of Ireland’s most popular sports (see inset). Kim first signed up to play football at age 7, then began playing the Gaelic version at age 11, intensely practicing both sports in her teens. Stacey started with football when she was 8, taking up rugby a bit later. She is modest by nature and does not mention that she is the youngest semi-professional female rugby player in Ireland. “No female rugby player has ever won as many cups as she has at her age,” her big sister takes care to point out. Stacey can proudly boast of eight: “I won my first when I was 18 at the Rugby Europe Women’s Sevens Grand Prix Series in Kazan, Russia.” When asked why they chose rugby, Kim and Stacey respond in unison: “We wanted to travel!” Stacey clarifies further: “With Gaelic sports, we’re confined to Ireland. With rugby, we can get out and see the world.” They’ve been to Russia, the United States, several European countries and even Australia. “Pro sport is a very strict world,” acknowledges Stacey. “We have to keep in shape with gym time and running every day. We also stay on a stringent diet. Our coach wants us to get eight hours’ sleep a night and we have to be careful not to injure ourselves. Some of our friends don’t understand this degree of discipline. But, in exchange for all this commitment, we get to travel all over.” And though their determination was not enough to send them to Brazil for the Olympics, they will still play on the worldwide circuit with the team. BLUSH AND BRUISES

On the pitch at Donnybrook Stadium, home to today’s practice, some twenty women rugby players clash alongside Kim and Stacey. The faces are carefully made up, their nails beautifully polished. But their white skin is marred by nasty scrapes on their elbows and knees. At the coach’s whistle, they stop their informal chatting to focus on passing accuracy, speed, endurance or power, as well as to practice some spectacular tackles. Kim and Stacey compete fiercely for the ball – tough, but taking care with one another. “There’s no rivalry between us,” declares Kim at the end of practice, “just the thrill of competition. Especially since we don’t play the same position – I play hooker and Stacey’s a scrumhalf.” Tonight, both athletes will go home to eat dinner in the same kitchen, as these rugby doyennes are still devoted to their family. In fact, they can’t really afford to live anywhere else: “We don’t have the revenue that the men’s team has,” grumbles Stacey with a touch of bitterness that she quickly brushes off with a shake of her hair. Adding, nevertheless, that “at our level, if we were boys, we’d have enough money to each buy our own house.” n

ATHLETES

Practice at Donnybrook Stadium.

TWO’S COMPANY

Stacey and Kim walking the waterfront.

•••

CHEFS to Watch

TREASURE ISLAND IRELAND’S GASTRONOMY, LIKE ITS PEOPLE, IS NOW BETTER TRAVELLED AND MORE OPEN TO NEW INFLUENCES. HERE ARE PORTRAITS OF FOUR YOUNG, CREATIVE, FREE-AND-EASY CHEFS THAT ARE DUSTING OFF “IRISH CUISINE”, REVITALISING AND REVAMPING IT TO KEEP PACE WITH TODAY’S TASTES. By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

DUBLIN IS FULL OF SURPRISES. IT HAS LONG ATTRACTED VISITORS FROM AROUND THE WORLD WITH ITS UNIQUE MELANGE OF CULTURE, CONGENIALITY AND THOSE WARMLY WELCOMING WATERING HOLES KNOWN AS PUBS. Today, though, this list must also in-

clude inventive cuisine featuring local ingredients of incomparable freshness and strong flavour. An unexpected selling point for a city that, for the vast majority of taste buds, evokes dark beer, potatoes, bacon and fish ‘n’ chips! The time has come, however, to dispense with those gastronomic clichés, letting the new reality of Irish food set the world alight. Young local chefs are shaping the new, modern Irish cuisine and promoting their vision of “surf and turf” for their island. The coasts are brimming with sublime shellfish – are they not dubbed “Dublin Bay prawns”? The countryside, in its thousand shades of green, is the source of exceptional meats, particularly beef and lamb, as well as rich, creamy milk used to make potent cheeses. Dublin was not expecting a new generation of gastronomic geniuses to embrace and enhance these traditional, Irish-born products. We met four of the daring young chefs: Ciaran Sweeney, Niall Sabongi, Mark Moriarty and Barry FitzGerald. Each, in his own way, embodies the desire to reshape the landscape, pen new pages in a cookbook they feel has become dusty and tarnished with age.

Ciaran and Mark worked together at pop-up restaurants in Dublin, surprising short-lived eateries that thrilled local foodies with spectacular dishes served in unusual places around the capital. Since that time, Ciaran took over the helm of one of Dublin’s most elegant establishments, Forest & Marcy. Mark has been travelling the world to spread word of his terroir and technique, the title of San Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 on his chef’s coat. Niall, who grew up in the kitchens of his restaurateur father, started a marine bistro with fresh seafood and a very relaxed atmosphere. And Barry dove into the trade by opening his first restaurant after learning the ropes in England. During the photo shoot, the four young men talk shop, swapping their impressions of their lives as restaurant owners, chefs, cooks. Though they’ve not yet had the chance to work all together, these professionals from the same generation have many things in common. Their restaurants all hold very high standards of excellence, offer concise menus that change with the seasons, along with elegant dishes and exceptional value for money. They are part of a burgeoning crop of establishments dotting the busy streets of the Irish capital. The “fair city” is more appetising than ever. Let’s eat!

DREAM TEAM

From left to right, Ciaran Sweeney, Niall Sabongi, Barry FitzGerald and Mark Moriarty: four chefs rolling down the road to success!

“Today’s Irish cuisine resembles today’s Irish people.” Ciaran Sweeney

FULL SPEED AHEAD!

Ciaran Sweeney, determined to modernise the cuisine of his native island.

SMOKED TABLESIDE

Salmon, lovage leaves and radish.

SWEET AUDACITY

White chocolate, yogurt, almonds and sorbet... with dill!

CALL OF THE INDIES

Irish cod and spring vegetables, seasoned with coconut-tinged cream.

CIARAN SWEENEY, CHEF AT FOREST & MARCY “When foreign customers are asked what foods are made in Ireland, they always say, ‘Guinness, potatoes and bacon’. A handful of us want to change things and get past this boring, closed-minded vision of Irish fare. Today’s Irish cuisine resembles today’s Irish people: it has travelled, opened itself up to others, but remains rooted in the terroir,” says Sweeney. In May 2016, this 31-year-old chef took over the kitchens at Forest & Marcy dj, the second location of the delightful Forest Avenue, a hundred metres away. He mixes his house spice blends there, produces his own charcuterie – a rarity in Ireland – and reinvents the basics of this modern Irish cuisine undergoing such transformation. It’s an enormous challenge for this young father, who saw the birth of his first child the same week the restaurant opened! But Ciaran has boundless energy: “I want to shake up this restaurant and shake up Irish cuisine. There are very strict codes at the fine dining establishments here. And pubs, more often than not, serve dishes that are really passé.” In his restaurant, flooded with natural light, he serves an endless parade of creative, elegant, tasty dishes. The classic smoked salmon is reinvented here: the flesh is enveloped in a fragrant cloud before being slightly flame-singed. “Thornton’s is the first restaurant to have updated our traditional bacon and cabbage. Here, I serve a new kind of potato bread, made with fermented potatoes mixed with butter and yogurt.” To plumb the mysteries of Dublin, one absolutely must sample Ciaran’s cuisine!

A TREE GROWS IN DUBLIN

The restaurant is on the city’s fashionable Leeson Street.

“There’s a lot of work to be done in educating the younger generations.” Niall Sabongi

THE SEAFOOD LAIR

Niall Sabongi opened his marine bistro in the middle of the Temple Bar district.

SAVOURY PEARLS

The menu features Oysters Rockefeller (with spinach au gratin) and Kilpatrick (with bacon and Worcestershire sauce).

NIALL SABONGI, OWNER OF KLAW AND FOUNDER OF SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD IRELAND

Ireland is an island. Though a known fact, it bears repeating, considering how often seafood seems to be neglected when mentioning this country’s dining options. “We have exceptional waters around us, but the whole world only knows us for Irish beef. Why? Because ninety percent of the fish and seafood caught here is exported,” explains dynamic chef-entrepreneur Niall Sabongi, who has chosen to honour these great forgotten foods. In his pocket-sized establishment in the Temple Bar district, you can swallow oysters from Waterford or Connemara. You might feast on a crock of spicy winter crab, and lobster claws are served in down-to-earth style. The lobster roll – a tender sandwich of lobster meat in spicy mayonnaise – has a taste that leaves you wanting more. There are no white tablecloths or pompous service here – just rock music in the background and eager diners packed elbow-to-elbow. “I want seafood to be affordable, relaxed, within everyone’s reach, without sacrificing freshness,” affirms Niall. This father of two young children not only sells his maritime pearls on his menu, but he is also the head of Sustainable Seafood Ireland, a local, responsible fishing company: “We work with small fishing boats that supply Dublin’s restaurants – including Klaw dk, of course! – with mackerel, John Dory, lobster, crab, and the rest.” Then he adds, “Irish cuisine had lost its credibility. There’s a lot of work to be done in educating the younger generations. I want to go into schools to hand down this maritime legacy – it’s rare for kids here to have ever tasted an oyster! I want to take them out to pick wild herbs, gather seaweed and eat shellfish on the beach.”

53 MARK MORIARTY, TRAVELLING CHEF AND WINNER OF THE 2015 SAN PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF COMPETITION Don’t look for his restaurant in Dublin. Or at least get set for a long wait before you do, because the Irish winner of the prestigious 2015 San Pellegrino Young Chef Award is in no hurry to settle down. “It’s a little early to open my restaurant – I still have a lot to learn. I’ll keep travelling and absorbing what I can from the people I meet and the food cultures I explore. I hope to open up my bistro in Dublin in the next four or five years,” says this hugely talented 28-year-old chef. Mark Moriarty is now one of the ambassadors taking new Irish cuisine outside of the country’s borders. Having teamed up with his friend Ciaran Sweeney in opening pop-up restaurants hailed by the who’s-who of Dublin, this young man has gone nomadic – travelling the United States, Singapore, Australia, Italy, and beyond – to raise global awareness of his little-known terroir, casting aside the clichés long associated with his native island. “Young Irish chefs can finally have some self-confidence! They’re proud to carry this torch and use the great ingredients that come from such fertile land,” exclaims Mark as he walks down the aisles of the Fallon & Byrne grocery store, where Irish-made products are legion. The dish that earned him his title in June 2015 is a succint expression of the spirit of his cuisine. “It all starts with one simple ingredient: celeriac. It’s blackened with a kitchen torch, then placed in a pearl barley-andhay miso, aromas I’m well-acquainted with – Guinness and the smell of my uncle’s farm. I add roasted hazelnuts and a crumble made from the celery peelings, because I hate to waste anything. I blend the celery juice with butter, and a hazelnut-oil mayonnaise ties it all together. The recipe is served in one of my grandmother’s tea dishes.” How very Irish! > You can follow Mark Moriarty at www.twitter.com/markmoriarty1

“Young Irish chefs can finally have some self-confidence!” Mark Moriarty

MADE IN IRELAND

The globetrotting chef finds inspiration in the aisles of Fallon & Byrne.

TEAM BUILDING

Centre: Barry, from London to Dublin.

SPRING HAS SPRUNG!

Ricotta balls, asparagus and cream of sorrel.

BARRY FITZGERALD, CHEF AND OWNER OF BASTIBLE

TASTE AND COLOUR

Spätzle, duck egg, peas, marinated pomegranate and wild garlic.

“This is what a bastible looks like,” says the chef, 34, at the start of our meeting, holding up a traditional, cast-iron cooking pot, an Irish kitchen essential in the late 19th century. Still, though Barry named his restaurant for this cookware, don’t think that Bastible dl is a trip back in time! The cuisine is modern, vibrant, electric and the establishment is easily on a par with the best bistronomic eateries in London or Paris. This chef-entrepreneur – sweet-faced, but utterly determined – drew on his personal and professional background to create a restaurant that has been bringing in Dublin’s trend-setting crowds since November 2015. “I’m Dublin-born, but I grew up in the United States. Once I came back here, I studied business without any specific agenda. I travelled a lot – Australia, the USA, Europe – mostly for the fun of it. I was introduced to the culinary world, which helped me choose my career path: that’s what I wanted to do!” He quickly got an on-the-job education in the cooking profession in London with the new generation of chefs that care about keeping menu pricing reasonable and working effectively with local ingredients. “I always wanted to return to Dublin. This city holds so much promise. And it’s a more relaxed place for starting a family,” explains the young father. He modestly describes his style of modern Irish cuisine, “even though we can’t really say we have a true gastronomic tradition, like France does, for instance.” He adds, “Recently, the economic recession has driven prices higher. The producers understood that they’d make a better living if they focused on quality. And the quality of cheese, beef, lamb and seafood improved phenomenally! It’s a virtuous circle: young people are more interested in cooking – it’s not just about beer for them anymore!”

“I always wanted to return to Dublin. This city holds so much promise.”

THE NEW TASTE OF DUBLIN… ETTO fp A contemporary bistro that offers astounding value, right downtown. Casual atmosphere and a menu peppered with surprises. Be sure to see the fine wine list in this establishment that serves no beer!

Barry FitzGerald

“BASTIBLE DAY”

Barry FitzGerald’s restaurant revolution!

FOREST AVENUE fq An Irish-American couple, John and Sandy Wyer, run this restaurant. It weaves together bistronomic influences from New York, Paris and London, while preserving a touch of Dublin. Their brunch is the most popular in the capital. LOCKS 1 WINDSOR TERRACE fs

Meticulous service, a varied, ingredientcentred menu, all in a rustic setting on the banks of the canal: what more would you ask for? Ah yes, their delightful cocktail selection! THE GREENHOUSE fd One of the best

contemporary Irish menus combining local treasures (like Dublin Bay prawns and County Kerry lamb) with superb dishes born of great French cuisine. THE PIG’S EAR ff A single restaurant

with three ambiances, depending on which floor you choose to sit on, in this tastefully decorated Dublin establishment. It feels like home away from home, a place that perfectly interprets new Irish cuisine.

… ACCOMPANIED BY A NESPRESSO GRAND CRU FISH SHACK CAFÉ There are

three locations of this eatery: Temple Bar fg, Sandycove dh and Malahide fh. Each serves locally caught seafood: nibble on fried treats, crab sandwiches, and wash it all down with a cold beer. > You’ll find all the locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

CULT Object

The perfect PINT

A GORGEOUS GLASS, A BEAUTIFUL BEER. GUINNESS BEER, THAT IS, ON TAP AT ANY SELF-RESPECTING PUB. BUT WHAT ARE THE SECRETS TO THE PERFECT HEAD? By Boris Coridian Photo Mickaël A. Bandassak

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

SO OFTEN IS IT CLASPED IN THE HANDS OF THE IRISH THAT ONE ALMOST FAILS TO NOTICE IT’S THERE. Along

Dublin’s bustling streets, the pint – that glass that holds exactly 568 millilitres – is emptied as quickly as it is filled, particularly after work and on weekends. A person orders one (or more) at the bar before going to drink it in good company, inside or outside the pub. The pint, in fact, unites the Irish (those over 18, the country’s legal drinking age). Still, for this unit of measure – inherited from neighbouring England – to become an utterly Irish national symbol, it had to be associated with an utterly Irish beer. Guinness Stout, a dark beer produced since 1759 in the original brewery in the centre of the capital, has become the greatest ally of this ample half-litre. All over the city, the harp, the brand’s logo since 1862, is displayed on both pubfronts and glasses. Drinking a draught Guinness is one of Dublin’s authentic rituals. Each day, 10 million pints are consumed across more than 100 countries, giving those who quaff it a moment of genuine Irishness. The silky texture, ebony hue – in stark contrast with the pristine white foam of the head – and a refreshing, bitter flavour combine to make it a national treasure. But before placing one’s lips on the rim of the flared glass to enjoy the perfect pint, one must show proof of patience. The slender profile, voluptuous curves and wide mouth of the Gravity glass (available since 2013) are not of haphazard design. Au contraire: this slightly rounded, inverted cone is the setting for a celebration of the thick foam and

heady bouquet of barley and hops. The golden harp engraved on the glass’ upper section shows where the liquid should hit the glass from the tap, so as to tilt the glass at the ideal 45° angle. The bartender pulls the pump (or tap-tower handle) toward his (or her) person, for the initial flow of beer, to which is added the nitrogen gas needed for proper consumption. The logo also serves as a gauge, to know when to stop filling the glass because a break is needed at this point (for the beer, not for the bartender, who remains on duty!). About 90 seconds must pass before s/he takes the pint in hand again and finishes filling it by pushing, rather than pulling, the pump, allowing only the brown liquid to flow without adding the gas. The fine bubbles form elegant swirls and scrolls before amassing on the surface in a thick head of foam rising higher than the rim. The pint is ready! In the Gravity glass, a raised curve – again a nod to the harp motif – guides the hand naturally toward the base. “This shape was designed specifically to make sure consumers don’t heat up the beer too quickly with their hands. The ideal drinking temperature is 6° C. The glass used previously, the Tulip, or even older models in a variety of shapes, were simpler designs. That’s why I really prefer the new version. It means you can have the best experience possible drinking Guinness on tap,” explains the brand’s expert, Domhnall Marnell, as he stands behind the counter of the aptly named Gravity Bar (on the top floor of the Guinness Storehouse fj ), which enjoys a magnificent location over Dublin. n

TOMORROW’S GREENHOUSE

The Grow Dome Project, a botanic bubble in the city centre.

URBAN Culture

FERTILE ASPHALT FIELDS TODAY, IT’S ENTIRELY POSSIBLE TO GROW FRUIT AND VEGETABLES IN THE CITY. EXCITING, INNOVATIVE INITIATIVES ARE SPRINGING UP ALL OVER DUBLIN, SHAPING THE URBAN FARM OF THE FUTURE AND NURTURING SOCIAL TIES AS CAREFULLY AS THE CROPS. By Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

60 CONCRETE UTOPIA

Andrew Douglas in the Belvedere College greenhouse.

ON THE TOP FLOOR OF BELVEDERE COLLEGE, ONE OF THE IRISH CAPITAL’S MOST RESPECTED SCHOOLS, Andrew

Douglas slips a white coat over his pirate’s-head t-shirt, turns on the lights of this vast glass room, and begins inspecting the plants growing here – beetroot, potatoes, radishes, lettuce, parsley. “We usually think agriculture happens outside the city,” he says. “But an urban setting can also be conducive to food farming.” This energetic, enthusiastic forty-something man introduced the first urban farm in Dublin in 2012, initially setting up shop on the roof of an old factory. Across this 400-square-metre space, he grew vegetables, raised chickens and kept a few hives, before having to move in 2014 to make way for the city’s new urban projects. A few months later, in January 2015, Belvedere College offered him this greenhouse, home to both high-tech and low-tech paraphernalia. “It’s a laboratory,” he says. “We work with high school students to experiment with different techniques for growing in small spaces. We test alternatives to chemical and industrial agriculture. We imagine what the city of tomorrow might look

The approach is at once scientific, ecological and socially responsible. like.” On one side, rows of above-ground crops sit above basins holding swimming grey fish: tilapia. “It is a closed circuit: the basin water irrigates and feeds the plants, which filter the water before sending it back, clean, to the basin.” Nearby, a line of planters holds growing mushrooms: “We collect coffee grounds from around the neighbourhood to use as compost. In the space of a month, using ten kilos of grounds, we produce three kilos of mushrooms. There’s huge potential there. To give you an idea of the quantities available, every coffee shop on this street throws away around 40 kilos of grounds a week.” The approach that Andrew promotes is at once scientific, ecological and socially responsible: it intends to show that an urban farm can be productive, innovative and sustainable, while helping forge stronger ties between residents. “These new farms are designed to blend into their urban environ-

61 RECYCLING

Coffee grounds, a natural mushroom fertiliser.

ment,” he continues. “We recycle a number of staple articles, using them to locally produce high-quality foods.” The initiative championed by this green-thumbed urbanite is part of a broader movement, one that is drawing a growing number of followers in Dublin and many other cities in Europe and around the world, as urban populations swiftly swell. Douglas, a cycling enthusiast and professional sound engineer, is starting to achieve what was, a few years ago, still considered utopian: turning the city into a food-production platform. “NEW LIMITATIONS”

“Our governments generally promote industrial agriculture, monoculture and achieving new productivity records, but they forget that we’re in the midst of a climate crisis”, explains artist Zack Denfeld, Founder of CoClimate, a think-tank specialising in climate issues. “So we must review the agricultural model that’s based on oil dependency, right? We have to reduce energy waste, consider renewable energy sources, favour local foods.” In the spring of 2016, this visionary jack-of-all-trades

was one of the curators of the “Field Test” exhibition, funded by the venerable Trinity College, exploring innovations to make the farm of tomorrow a reality. Sitting in the Science Gallery cafeteria on the campus of the elite university founded in the 16th century, the young man takes his question further: “How can we adapt the farm to fit these new limitations, when more than 60% of the Irish population lives in the city and only 1% of our crops are certified organic? These are the questions we address in the exhibition.” After World War II, like nearly all the world’s countries, the island shifted from family farming – fairly diverse and mostly in keeping with nature’s biodiversity balance – to productivist agriculture, across larger expanses of land. In 1973, when the Republic of Ireland joined the European Union, the concentration of farms accelerated further still: “The Irish’s ties to the land began to slacken; then the Eighties saw the arrival of the supermarket culture,” explains Nathan Jackson, one of the first farmers on the outskirts of Dublin to propose Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA*) in the town of •••

62 TEAM SPIRIT

Jason Sheridan, gardener for the northern quarters.

PIONEERS

The Food Co-op has been selling organic vegetables since 1983.

Celbridge. When the 29-year-old began his farming operations, he was surprised by the enthusiastic response to his organic courgettes, carrots, garlic and apples: “Consumers are much choosier about what they eat today. And that’s a good sign!” ROOFTOPS

A bumper crop of urban-farming initiatives is thriving across the city. Perhaps the oldest is the Dublin Food Co-op, a consumer group focused on vegetarian and organic food. “The cooperative was founded in 1983,” recalls its General Manager, Norman Rides. “Initially, most goods had to be imported. But, bit by bit, we managed to produce locally. We now have 1,700 members, some of whom grow their own crops in their gardens.” Of similar ilk, Michael Kelly started the Grow It Yourself (GIY) movement in 2009. The objective was to “support individuals wanting to grow their fruits and vegetables,” reports the former IT consultant who managed to expand the

Aspiring green thumbs of all ages want to learn how to help their plots flourish. GIY movement to some 80 cities and towns in Ireland. The training sessions held every month, showing just how to cultivate on one’s own plot, attract interested gardeners-to-be of all ages. “Word-of-mouth is doing its job; more and more people come each time,” enthuses Michael. In the lively Temple Bar district, Pádraic Óg Gallagher runs the Boxty House restaurant, where he cooks potatoes to make the Irish boxty, or potato pancake. This is also the headquarters of the Thank Potato fk group, founded in 2001 by this renowned restaurateur to bring potato farming into the urban environment: “A good portion of those we cook come from Dublin proper. I’m growing some in front of my windows and on a few rooftops, like at Belvedere College with Andrew Douglas. We produce more than 120 varieties. And this is just the beginning – there are so many possibilities! Take time to

63 URBAN INTEGRATION

“Thank Potato” spuds are grown on the rooftops.

look at Dublin on Google Maps and you’ll see all those flat roofs that could be converted into vegetable gardens!” This past June 2016, Pádraic was delighted to attend the second annual Bloom Fringe Festival, promoting the city’s community gardens and informing residents about alternatives to the supermarket. “This festival grew out of citizens’ desire to reclaim public spaces. It promotes a form of ‘guerrilla’ vegetable farming, encouraging people to grow vegetables on abandoned land.” LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

“Everyone can do it,” says Jason Sheridan, who grows peas, broccoli, artichokes, carrots, leeks, potatoes and onions at the foot of his red-brick building in the north of the city. “It was the high price of organic vegetables that prompted me to get my hands dirty,” says this solid man in his thirties with a degree in sociology. Five years ago, he collaborated with a few neighbours to make large wooden planters in some of the city’s pub-

lic spaces he’d known while growing up, to hold the soil where the first seeds would be planted. “We did everything ourselves, without asking anyone. But we didn’t expect it to forge such team spirit – the youngest in the group is age eight; the oldest is 80.” Further south, in the Liberties district, on the other side of the River Liffey, an imposing dome embodies a futuristic vision for the city. “It’s a plastic-covered wooden frame,” explains thirty-something Niall O’Brien, the man behind the Grow Dome Project. In this unusual glasshouse resembling a translucent igloo, vegetables are grown hydroponically, meaning aboveground. “After the economic recession hit Dublin in 2008, many fields were left fallow,” Niall continues. “We created the first dome on one of these plots in 2014. It’s a strange-looking structure that serves as a neighbourhood landmark. Today, 150 volunteers take turns tending the crops in the dome or in the garden around it.” It’s now a proven model and, this •••

64 SHARED GARDEN

Graphic designer Rian Coulter in the vegetable garden at the National College of Art and Design.

winter, another dome will be built on the campus of Dublin City University in the neighbourhood of Glasnevin. “And two other projects are underway, as well” exclaims Niall, who dreams of building domes across all of Dublin. “Why not? It would be a first step toward food self-sufficiency.” Just a few blocks away, students at the National College of Art and Design have also created their own vegetable garden. “There was this empty lot adjacent to our premises,” reports Rian Coulter, a former student who today is a graphic designer. “In 2013, we created a community garden with people from the neighbourhood.” On this one-hectare plot, enclosed by graffiti-tagged walls, young people now cultivate rows of lettuce, spinach and potatoes. Part of the plot is used to make compost, an essential ingredient for adding nutrients to the soil, making it more fertile. “Everything starts with the compost,” asserts Tony Lowth, a professional gardener who now helps the students with this project. “It’s really the foundation of natural farming. We make it using vegetable waste, coffee grounds and horse manure from the horses that take tourists around the city in carriages – the stables are right next door. Today, we have so much compost that we can sell the excess.” The man points to the towering

The students grow lettuce, potatoes, spinach and more. soil pile four metres behind him, before concluding categorically, “This is the future of Dublin’s urban farms. This garden is my bank vault – and I have much more faith in it than I do a bank.” n * CSA: Community-Supported Agriculture. Generally involves producing high-quality foods for a local community, often via organic or biodynamic farming methods, and a shared-risk membership and marketing structure. Consumers and other stakeholders are heavily involved, creating a stronger consumer-producer relationship. The locals pay in advance for their consumption of the foods for a designated period, giving the farmer greater financial security and forecasting ability. The system varies widely in terms of how the farm budget is supported by consumers and how producers then deliver the foods.

MEET THE NEW URBAN FARMERS “There are now so many citizen initiatives in every realm of urban agriculture in Dublin that we’ve actually put together guided tours.” In the spring of 2016, Andrew Douglas, Belvedere College’s experimental farmer, began organising bike outings to give residents (and tourists) the chance to meet the city’s new generation of farmers. It’s also an opportunity to learn about the Brewtonic association and its unusual collective-beer project. The concept entails letting a number of Dubliners grow hops in their gardens, then harvesting their crops to make a special beer in autumn 2016. “It’s a fun way to get the city’s citizens interested in local, artisanal initiatives,” explains Conor Dunne, the young man in his thirties who is behind the project, before returning to his task of hoeing his hop plants (see photo opposite) and herbs on the roof of The Bernard Shaw fl pub, near St Stephen’s Green. On the terrace of Grogans, a pub with a deep-red façade on South William Street, architect Gearóid Carvill and photographer Kieran Harnett talk about another original initiative: the Dublin Honey Project. “Dublin has everything it could possibly need to produce its own honey,” they report. “We’re now maintaining hives in the city’s 24 boroughs.” For now, thirty of them are set in four main neighbourhoods: “The last harvest produced 500 kilos of honey,” states Gearóid. But why in the city instead of the country? “The fact is, in urban environments, there’s greater diversity than in the countryside, where many areas are taken over by monocultures. And we use far fewer pesticides on the plants, which means better honey in the end.” > You’ll find all the above-

mentioned locations on our map in the back of the magazine.

HISTORY An Extraordinary Story

The day IRISH COFFEE took off IT WAS DURING WORLD WAR II: IN THE RESTAURANT OF AN AIRPORT BESIDE A SMALL IRISH TOWN, A COOK INVENTED A BEVERAGE TO SOOTHE THE PASSENGERS OF A ROCKY TRANSATLANTIC FLIGHT. IRISH COFFEE WAS BORN. By Boris Coridian Illustration Icinori

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

AFTER SIX HOURS OF A CHAOTIC FLIGHT, THE HUGE SEAPLANE TURNED AROUND AND WENT BACK TO FOYNES, ITS TAKE-OFF POINT. The extravagantly proportioned vessel –

the obese belly of the cabin utterly incongruous with the modest scale of rest of the plane – prepared to land on the waters of the Shannon Estuary. On this stormy day in October 1943, the frantic whine of the craft’s four engines was almost drowned out by the deafening roar of the rain. The flight, which left the small town on Ireland’s west coast, was carrying its chic passengers across the Atlantic. It was scheduled to arrive in New York after a technical stop in the quiet town of Botwood on the island of Newfoundland, Canada. But they were not to see North America that day. Weary and dazed by their tribulations, the travellers remained firmly on solid ground, after one last boat ride taking them to the seaplane dock. Chilled through, they headed to the airport restaurant, a warm and safe sanctuary. The smell of coffee wafting out of the kitchens quickly invigorated heart and mind. The pleasant dining room was well-known for the quality fare prepared by Chef Joe Sheridan. Though Foynes had no particular sightseeing feature, it had felt the presence of the most eminent personalities in its halls since 1936, when this seaplane airport opened. One had to be a person of means to enjoy transatlantic travel by air, uniting the two continents like never before: one could cross the ocean in a day, whereas a steamer meant a five- or six-day crossing. The guestbook bore signatures of famous figures: John F. Kennedy, Yehudi Menuhin, Eleanor Roosevelt, Ernest Hemingway, Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe. On that day, however, as World War II raged across Europe, there were no celebrities in Foynes. Only unknowns who, without realising it, would be the first to sample a recipe that would itself travel around the world.

After receiving a Morse code message about the returning travellers, Joe, the cook with the famous toque, quickly concocted a powerful batch of coffee. He then added a dose of Irish whiskey to flavour the hot beverage. Sugar and whipped cream came next, their own form of sweet nourishment. When one passenger regained courage and colour after just a few sips, he asked, “Is this Brazilian coffee?” “No, sir,” Joe replied without thinking, “it’s Irish coffee!” The legend was born. The inventor put the crowning touches on this oeuvre a few days later by knocking on the door of Brendan O’Regan, the establishment’s new, government-appointed manager, who was charged with making the place a showcase of Irish lifestyle. When the chef suggested serving his new recipe in a clear glass, O’Regan quickly grasped that this might mean the birth of a potential national emblem. The chef described the recipe: “After warming a glass with hot water, pour in a teaspoon of brown sugar and a generous shot of Irish whiskey. Then fill it up with good, strong coffee to within a centimetre of the rim. Next, using the back of a spoon, carefully add lightly whipped cream to the brim. Do not mix, by any means! Sip by drinking the coffee through the cream.” With the deep black liquid, creamy white foam, and warm, delicious smell, it was – and is – the perfect coffee cocktail. Its reputation crossed the world’s oceans and found a new home in San Francisco. In 1952, Joe Sheridan was invited to work at Buena Vista Café, where he would continue preparing his signature beverage until his death in 1962. But a legend never dies: his Irish coffee still revives chilled and weary souls. It even embodies the soul of its people: “Cream as rich as an Irish brogue, coffee as strong as a friendly hand, sugar as sweet as the tongue of a rogue, and whiskey as smooth as the wit of the land.” So, as the locals say in Gaelic in the pubs, sláinte! n

LEADING THE TROUPES

Breandán de Gallaí first earned widespread renown as the lead dancer in the “Riverdance” stage show.

LOCAL Figure

Breandán de Gallaí A BALLET REVOLUTION THIS CHOREOGRAPHER AND HIS COMPANY COMBINE THE INTENSITY OF STEP DANCING WITH THE STREAMLINED STYLE OF CONTEMPORARY DANCE, DETERMINED TO ROOT THIS TRADITIONAL GENRE IN TODAY’S ARTISTIC LANDSCAPE. By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

EVEN BEFORE ENTERING THE ROOM, WE CAN HEAR THE SPIRITED CLATTER OF THE HEELS AND SOLES OF “HARD SHOES”. We push through the door and are met

with the sounds of tango music and the sight of two men performing inspired sequences of traditional Irish dance, clacking their feet on the grey linoleum as they rehearse. One is Breandán de Gallaí; the other is Nick O’Connell, his accomplice in all performances. With his athletic body, skyblue eyes and ready smile, the 47-year-old de Gallaí has become a legend of this Irish art. After spending ten years riding the wave of worldwide success of “Riverdance” (see inset), he is now involved in a more personal project with his own Ériu Company. “I’m exploring the possibilities offered by traditional dance in a quest to integrate it into contemporary culture,” he says. “In a ‘Riverdance’ show, to be rather tongue-in-cheek about it, this means smiling and mastering the technique so as to advance as quickly as possible. Now, dance isn’t a competition – it’s a means of expression. In the shows I create, I want the dancers to convey the emotions they’re feeling, to really show what they have inside them.” A challenge, indeed, in a country that favours theatre and literature over choreography, “eternal Cinderella of the arts,” as he prettily puts it. “In trying to escape the too-often folkloric label given Irish dancing, I sometimes feel like I’m working in a genre that doesn’t yet exist.” In short, Breandán is reinventing it. •••

FROM “FAME”TO “RIVERDANCE”

Everything is mesmerising, from the exactitude of their movements to the energy radiated by their bodies.

He returns to the floor with Nick, his collaborator, this time to more current music, electronic sounds, a throbbing boom-boom and a few notes of Irish fiddle. The two men have removed their hard tap shoes: their movements become lighter and faster still, with entrechats and other ballet steps. Everything about their presentation is mesmerising, from the exactitude and fluidity of their movements to the energy radiated by their bodies to the obvious pleasure they take in dancing to this tune. They dance an excerpt from “Linger”, the Ériu Company’s latest show, performed for the first time in Dublin in January 2016 and praised by the national press. Breandán de Gallaí travelled a long, hard road to reach this level. He grew up in a family of seven children in a village in County Donegal in north-western Ireland. He began studying dance at age eight, with little enthusiasm, but

gradually developed a taste for the art. In 1980, when Alan Parker released his musical “Fame”, Breandán recalls having suddenly grasped all the potential that contemporary dance truly held. At 16, he went to the United States with his father, working summer jobs painting houses in Chicago, Illinois, and was spotted by dance fans who saw his footwork. When he returned the following year, the Gus Giordano Dance Academy invited him to attend classes for a year. His parents gave their permission for him to stay to make the most of this opportunity, provided he get back on track with his university plans when returning home: “Back then, the idea of earning a living from dance in Ireland was unthinkable; they wanted me to have a real job. So I studied applied physics”. But everything changed in 1994

IN REHEARSAL

with his partner, Nick O’Connell.

following the astounding success of “Riverdance”. The young man was recruited as one of the troupe’s lead dancers and would remain with the show for nearly ten years, becoming world-famous, dancing before kings and princesses across the globe, including the Emperor of Japan, Queen Elizabeth II and Queen Sonja of Norway. GREEK TRAGEDY

“Basically, I do Irish step dancing, with the upper body remaining fairly static and very rapid leg movements,” he explains. “But I know much more than that: I’ve studied other classic dance genres, like ballet, tap and jazz. I want to open up Irish dancing to these other styles.” Ceaselessly driven by his desire to expand the genre’s horizons, Breandán is working on an upcoming show in which he hopes to dovetail his choreography with the intensity of Greek tragedy. “But I take care to keep the spirit of Irish culture in my choreography,” he concludes. The same spirit that wholly animates him when he takes his place on the dance floor. n

“RIVERDANCE”: AN IRISH SUCCESS STORY Often considered the first major production to have presented Irish culture to a worldwide audience, “Riverdance” was an unexpected success story. It was originally designed as an entertaining interlude – a mere seven minutes in length – at the 1994 Eurovision contest held in Dublin. But that brief display was such a success that the producer, Moya Doherty, created an entire show based on traditional Irish dance. Since then, “Riverdance” continues to tour worldwide and has been seen, to date, by more than 18 million spectators. Breandán de Gallaí was part of the “Riverdance” adventure from the very first show, remaining with it until 2003. He was the show’s lead dancer for eight years.

SAVOIR-Faire

Past crafting FUTURE

THEY WORK WITH EARTH, WOOD, STONE OR WOOL. FIVE OUTSTANDING ARTISANS FROM IN AND AROUND DUBLIN, INSPIRED BY THE ABUNDANT RESOURCES OF THEIR LAND TO PRACTICE THEIR TRADITIONAL ARTS, SHARE THEIR QUEST FOR EXCELLENCE. By Boris Coridian et Guillaume Jan Photos Stéphane Remael

POTTERY: THE ART OF REFINEMENT

LAURA MAGAHY in front of

the Smithfield fruit market.

“Traditional craftsmanship has a long, solid history in Ireland, and we’re part of its present-day incarnation. But we want to create more contemporary pieces.” Laura Magahy chose to leave her job as an executive to devote her time to a major, long-held dream: establishing, in May 2016, Arran Street East gp, a workshop in Dublin’s neighbourhood of Smithfield that makes modern, streamlined pottery. “We do everything by hand,” says this sophisticated woman in her fifties. “We even create our own colours, taking inspiration from the fruit and vegetables sold at the market across from the shop.” > www.arran-street-east.myshopify.com

73 EACH ITEM is painstakingly designed: the cups are sized to be compatible with Nespresso Machines!

WORKING WITH MARBLE

meant modifying the machinery for greater cutting precision.

75 THESE LITTLE CUBES,

once frozen, keep a beverage cold without diluting it.

THE MASTER OF IRISH STONE

Connemara marble is a rare and precious material.

These little green marble cubes, once removed from the freezer, stay frozen for twenty minutes. “Enough time to serenely sip a whiskey,” explains Eric Byrne. “They’ll keep a beverage cold without diluting it.” The craftsman, whose workshop is in Blessington, specialises in tableware made from local stone, like Wicklow granite, Kilkenny limestone and an especially rare and precious material: green, grey-veined Connemara marble. “I had to modify my machinery to be able to cut these pieces with the great precision they require,” Eric adds as he gives us a demonstration. The marble craftsman also makes cutlery, cutting boards, napkin rings, candle holders and other table and kitchen specialities. > www.hennessyandbyrne.com

ERIC BYRNE in his

Blessington studio, southwest of Dublin.

A WOOL WOVEN FOR NEARLY A THOUSAND YEARS Philip Cushen is a time traveller. At 71, he is the heir to six generations of wool manufacturers operating in this seemingly ageless mill. Some of the machines date back to the late 19th century. Every step in the weaving process is performed on-site: the raw wool, shorn from Irish sheep, is washed and carded before being dyed, spun and woven. Through a maze of balls and bobbins, Philip’s hands are precise and meticulous in their movements. With a mere snap of his fingers, he ties together the delicate threads, an infinite palette of bright and beautiful colours. His eyes light up as he shows us the expanses of multi-coloured weft slowly taking shape, all in a soundscape thrumming from the rhythmic movement of well-oiled machinery. He makes it clear that the tradition of wool-working predates his family by centuries: “The Cistercian monks first introduced this craft in the Duiske Abbey in 1204!” Back then, the monks washed the wool in the clear waters of the Duiske tributary, which still runs through the village of Graiguenamanagh. > www.cushendale.ie

PHILIP CUSHEN carries on the trade of his ancestors, a family he traces back to Sylvester, born in 1773.

Some of the machines date back to the 19th century. THE RAW WOOL is dyed in thirty colours, making possible a vast palette of shades.

THIS WHEEL, two metres in height, is where the wool is prepared for weaving.

HIS CHEESE KNIVES, made entirely of wood, bring to mind ancient Viking tools, or accessories for fishermen or sportsmen.

79 SKILL AND PRECISION:

there cannot be the slightest flaw in the pieces to be sold.

FROM ORGANS TO KNIVES

Chaïm finds inspiration in the colours of the forest. CHAÏM FACTOR’S design

studio opened in 2011 and is now a family business.

Before devoting his savoir-faire to the realm of tableware – knives, cheese plates, cutting boards, all in wood – Chaïm Factor lent his manual skills to the restoration of Irish church organs, including the instrument in St Mary’s Church, Dublin. “But the economic crisis forced me to shift my focus to making smaller pieces, and I started selling my work at various markets in 2011. Today, my pieces are sold as far away as New York and Tokyo!” laughs the craftsman. This perfectionist is currently Ireland’s only cutler, and his tapered handles may blend several woods, like yew, walnut and sycamore. “I find inspiration in the colour variations of Wicklow’s forest, where I have my workshop,” says Chaïm, gazing over the horizon with its thousand shades of green. > www.chaimfactor.com

80 FORTY SECONDS

is all it takes to carve a plate with the lathe.

WOOD THAT TURNS HEADS There are hazel shavings spiralling and flying everywhere in this workshop. In the space of just minutes, Glenn Lucas transforms a piece of rough wood, cut from a stump in the region, into a large bowl of enduring style. At age 42, he is now a renowned figure in Irish woodturning, a technique that entails cutting pieces of solid wood with a wood lathe and gouges (specialised, concavetipped chisels). Glenn grew up on the family farm just a kilometre away, deep in County Carlow, an hour and a half from Dublin; today, he travels the world to teach this ancient craft, keeping the tradition alive. “It’s not a uniquely Irish craft – you’ll see Viking objects at the Dublin museum that were made this way a thousand years ago,” he reports. Glenn caresses the sylvan curves to ensure the polished surface is completely smooth. With such dedication and skill, woodturning will no doubt survive for many generations to come. > www.glennlucaswoodturning.com

Glenn travels the world teaching his art. GLENN LUCAS “READS”THE WOOD

avoiding splits and cracks, before sawing pieces lengthwise.

ASH AND BEECH

are two of the most-used species in the workshop.

HOME SWEET HOME

AFTERNOON COFFEE CAN BE A MOMENT OF SWEET INSPIRATION. ENJOY CREAMS, CRUMBLES AND OTHER TASTY IRISH TREATS ALONGSIDE YOUR GRANDS CRUS, OUT OF THE WIND AND WEATHER! By Marie Leteuré Photos Jérôme Bilic

Pure Collection Lungo cup (Nespresso).

PEARS WITH COFFEE-OATMEAL CRUMBLE & ENVIVO LUNGO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 55 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Envivo Lungo

(6 x 110 ml). For the crumble: 6 to 8 pears - 180 g butter - 150 g wholemeal flour - 100 g brown sugar - 100 g cane sugar - 150 g small-flake (“quick”) oatmeal - 1 capsule of Envivo Lungo (110 ml ) - 10 cl whiskey.

Preheat oven to 200° C (400°F, gas mark 6). ■ Peel and quarter the pears, then cut into small pieces. ■ Cook them in a saucepan over relatively high heat with 30g butter and 50g cane sugar, until they begin to caramelise. ■ Add the coffee and whiskey, leave on high heat to reduce for 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside. ■ Place the flour, remaining butter (cut into pieces), brown sugar,

remaining cane sugar and oatmeal in a food processor bowl. ■ Mix in spurts until it forms a coarse-grained crumble mixture. ■ Place the caramelised pears in a dish. ■ Cover with the crumble mixture and bake for about 40 minutes. Serve warm. ■ Serve with an Envivo Lungo (110 ml).

Bowl (Fleux). Spoon (La Trésorerie). Napkin (Alexandre Turpault). Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

Cup and saucer (BHV Marais). Cup (Caravane Emporium). Spoons (La Trésorerie). Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

GOURMET Coffee

Pure Collection Espresso cups (Nespresso).

IRISH COFFEE CRÈME CARAMEL & VANILIO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes COOKING TIME: 20 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Vanilio

(6 x 40 ml). For the crème: 30 ml milk 100 ml cream - 6 tbsp. whiskey - 4 eggs 100 g cane sugar - 2 dashes vanilla. For the caramel: 100 g white sugar 4 tbsp. water - 4 tbsp. whiskey.

Preheat oven to 200° C (400°F, gas mark 6). n Heat 1 litre of water for use as a bain-marie. n Place the white sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to boil and remove from heat as soon as they form an amber-coloured caramel; add the whiskey. n Divide the caramel into 6 ramekins. n Beat the eggs and

cane sugar without frothing, add the milk, cream, vanilla and whiskey, then pour into the ramekins. n Place ramekins in a baking dish, pour the boiling water to surround them, cook for 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool before serving. n Serve with a Vanilio Espresso (40 ml).

Recipe Glass and Spoon Pure Collection (Nespresso).

VICTORIA SPONGE CAKE WITH COFFEE CREAM & DHARKAN SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes REFRIGERATION TIME: 2 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Dharkan

(6 x 40 ml) - 110 ml milk - 1 tbsp. liquid caramel. For the cake batter: 5 eggs 160 g sugar - 160 g flour - 50 g melted butter + 1 knob solid butter. For the cream: 60 g hazelnuts - 50 g sugar - 250 g mascarpone - 50 g icing sugar. For the syrup: 150 ml cane syrup - 3 capsules of Dharkan (3 x 40 ml) - 100 ml whiskey.

Preheat oven to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4). n Whisk the eggs and sugar until the mixture whitens. n Add the flour and melted butter, mix with a scraper spatula. n Pour into a buttered cake pan and bake for 30 minutes. n Toast the hazelnuts in a pan with the sugar and 2 tablespoons of water, let caramelise. Let cool to room temperature, then chop in a blender. n Mix the mascarpone, icing sugar and chopped hazelnuts with a whisk. n When the cake is cool, halve the

cake horizontally, place the bottom half on a suitable dish. n Sprinkle with three-fourths of the cane syrup/ coffee/whiskey syrup blend. n Spread the mascarpone cream on top. n Soak the inside of the other cake half with the remaining cane-syrup blend and place atop the mascarpone cream. n Refrigerate at least 2 hours. n Serve with a Latte Macchiato made with a 40ml Dharkan Espresso. In a glass, pour the

liquid caramel syrup, frothed milk, then the coffee.

Plates (BHV Marais). Napkin (Le Bon Marché). Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

View Collection Cappuccino cups (Nespresso).

OATMEAL COOKIES & CARAMELITO

Plates (Fleux).

SERVES SIX - PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 10 minutes REFRIGERATION TIME: 2 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Caramelito

(6 x 40 ml) - 6 x 50 ml milk. For the cookies: 100 g softened butter - 100 g cane sugar - 1 egg - 100 g wholemeal flour - 80 g oat flour - 50 g small-flake (“quick”) oatmeal - 40 g chopped nuts - ½ tsp. baking soda - 2 pinches salt.

In a food processor bowl, mix the butter with the sugar, add the egg, mix again, then add the flours, oatmeal, nuts, baking soda and salt. ■ Mix in spurts until a dough forms. ■ Shape dough into a roll 5 cm in diameter, wrap in plastic wrap, refrigerate for 2 hours. ■ Preheat oven to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4). ■ Slice the roll into cookie rounds,

place cookies on the oven tray covered with baking paper and bake for about 10 minutes. ■ Serve with a Cappuccino made with Caramelito (40 ml). For a crème brûlée effect

on the coffee, sprinkle with cane sugar, then brown with a kitchen torch.

LEMON-BERRY POSSET & LIVANTO SERVES SIX - PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 7 minutes REFRIGERATION TIME: Overnight INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Livanto

(6 x 40 ml). For the lemon cream: 400 ml cream - 150 ml lemon juice - 160 g sugar - 4 gelatine sheets (8 g total). For the berry topping: 250 g strawberries 125 g currants - 10 blackberries - 50 g sugar - 2 gelatine sheets (4 g total).

Soak 4 gelatine sheets in a bowl and 2 sheets in another bowl. ■ Bring the cream to a boil, remove from heat, and add the 4 drained gelatine sheets. ■ Mix the sugar and lemon juice, pour the cream on top, mix again. ■ Divide the mixture into 6 dessert glasses, let cool and refrigerate overnight. ■ Boil the berries with 10 ml water and the sugar for 5 minutes, add the 2 drained

gelatine sheets. ■ Strain the juice through a sieve, pressing firmly with the back of a spoon. ■ Let cool before gently placing the juice on top of the cream in each glass, return to refrigerator until ready to serve. ■ Serve with a Livanto Espresso (40 ml).

Glasses (Caravane Emporium). Spoons (La Trésorerie).

Pure Collection Espresso cups and saucers (Nespresso).

Dessert plates (Fleux). “Flower” plate (Maisons du Monde). Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

Pure Collection Espresso cup (Nespresso).

BANANA-NUT-WHISKEY CAKE & INDRIYA FROM INDIA SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 40 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Indriya

from India (6 x 40 ml) - 3 tsp. milk foam - 1 tsp. ginger syrup. For the cake: 150 g + 1 knob softened butter 180 g cane sugar - 3 eggs - 3 ripe bananas - 100 g crème fraiche or sour cream - 1 tsp. baking soda - ½ tsp. salt - 300 g light (semi-) wholemeal flour 50 g oatmeal - 100 g chopped nuts.

For the icing: 50 g butter - 50 g icing sugar - 100 ml whiskey.

Preheat oven to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4). n Grease a cake tin and line with parchment paper. n Mix the softened butter and cane sugar. n Add the eggs while still mixing, then the mashed bananas, nuts, sour cream, baking soda, salt and, lastly, the flour. n Continue to mix briefly, then pour the batter into the pan. n Bake the

cake for about 40 minutes until a knife blade inserted in the centre comes out clean. n For the icing, heat the butter, icing sugar and whiskey in the microwave for 10 seconds, then pour over the cake when cake is removed from the oven. n Let cool before serving. n Serve with an Espresso Macchiato made

with Indriya from India (40 ml). Pour the Espresso into a cup, then the syrup and milk foam.

NESPRESSO Lifestyle

CITIZ SHINES BRIGHT IT’S BEEN SEVEN YEARS SINCE NESPRESSO’S ICONIC MACHINE WAS CREATED IN 2009. NOW IN A SLIMMER DESIGN WITH UPDATED COLOURS, MATERIALS AND FINISHES AND A REDESIGNED MILK SOLUTION,CITIZ AND CITIZ&MILK ARE MORE CITY-SMART THAN EVER. By Nadia Hamam Photos Éric Flogny Styling Juliette de Cadoudal

NEW EXTERIOR Now CitiZ&milk and CitiZ have either a ribbed pattern on the capsule container, cup holder and drip tray, or an openwork pattern. Attention all milk-lovers: CitiZ&milk (photo above) sits on a redesigned, streamlined base to hold an Aeroccino.

Vase and pot (Fleux), salt and pepper shakers (The Conran Shop), tiles (Surface), tray (Merci).

STYLISH SPOUT On both CitiZ and CitiZ&milk, the “spout” is now in glossy black, ringed in gleaming chrome, and the Espresso and Lungo buttons are on the front. Each model comes in new colours – including intense red or glossy white – to round out the range of six shades. YOU’LL FIND THE ENTIRE CITIZ RANGE IN THE MACHINES & COLLECTIONS SECTION. SOME OF THE ABOVE PRODUCTS MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE IN YOUR COUNTRY.

By Elysabeth François Photos Emmanuel Nguyen

The jury of young film directors and Alfonso Gonzalez Loeschen (International Marketing Director for Nespresso), chaired by FrancoBritish filmmaker Gaëlle Denis, watched the 380 films produced and submitted by artists from around the world. Contestants had three minutes to convey their interpretation of the competition’s theme, “Explore your extraordinary”. The quality of the works was such that the jury chose to honour three creations (photos opposite), rather than just one. While Italy’s Italo Draperi and Russia’s Lidia Sheinin filmed their families transcending everyday life, Spain’s Franzo Nájera used images of scars to symbolise the wounds of life.

ematic gathering. La Plage Nespresso, one of the preferred meeting places for key personalities during the film fortnight, hosted the awards ceremony for the first ever Nespresso Talents competition. This prize served to recognise the directors of short films shot vertically. For Nespresso, such uncommon framing quickly became an essential aesthetic feature: from a creative standpoint, it challenges the norms of storytelling; from a viewing standpoint, the format reflects the way the public now views content, from photos to videos, on their phones.

THE CROISETTE SHONE BRIGHTER THAN EVER BEFORE AT THE LAST CANNES FILM FESTIVAL, the world’s most prestigious cin-

THE THEME,THE LENGTH AND THE FRAMING – VERTICAL – WERE ALL IMPOSED…AND NESPRESSO’S FIRST SHORT-FILM COMPETITION RESULTED IN A BUMPER CROP OF FABULOUS FILM CREATIONS!

QUIET ON THE SET!

NESPRESSO TALENTS 2016

An Ordinary Life from Russia’s Lidia Scheinin.

Scars from Spain’s Franzo Nájera.

Decollo Ver ticale from Italy’s Italo Draperi.

How did you shoot the film? Very quickly! In a single day with my parents. I wanted to film their routine life, with their everyday worries. My father and his chicken farm, my mother nagging him. It’s a story based on real life. How do you interpret the theme “Explore your extraordinary” I love the little things. What’s extraordinary to me is the love my parents have for one another, love that has lasted so many years, despite their frequent squabbles. What was it like for you to work in the vertical format? When I started shooting with this format, I felt strangely free, as though this restriction gave me wings. I was so steeped in that perspective that, even after I was done shooting, I still saw and thought vertically!

THREE QUESTIONS FOR ITALO DRAPERI DIRECTOR OF DECOLLO VERTICALE, ONE OF THE THREE WINNERS OF THE NESPRESSO TALENTS 2016 COMPETITION.

For more information, visit www.nespresso.com/talents

Three movies steeped in powerful emotion, distinctive, in the eyes of Gaëlle Denis, by virtue of “their human dimension. The vertical format forges a tangible closeness between the audience and the characters.” Franzo Nájera agrees: “It was the perfect format for penetrating the emotions of this man who ‘bares himself’ in his bathroom.”For Lidia Scheinin,“It was, above all, a great technical challenge and joy, having to think about the justification of every single frame.” French actor Tomer Sisley, sponsor of this maiden contest, presented the awards to the three winners and had this observation: “The vertical format is one of those small changes that will revolutionise moviemaking!”What more could next year’s contestants need for inspiration? After this 2016 success, the 2017 Nespresso Talents contest will open at the start of the year. To filmmakers everywhere: Get vertical!

NESPRESSO Talents 91

THE SPIRIT OF

GIVING

THIS FESTIVE SEASON,NESPRESSO CELEBRATES LUXURY,EXCLUSIVITY AND REFINEMENT WITH ITS “READY-TO-GIVE”OFFER,WRAPPED IN ELEGANT EBONY AND TRIMMED IN GOLD AND WHITE,A DESIGN BY ITALIAN ARTIST-GRAPHIC DESIGNER LORENZO PETRANTONI. By Nadia Hamam

TASTE DISPENSER

The Touch Capsule Dispenser, designed by BIG- GAME studio, is a new element in this collection’s dark, sensual world. It can hold up to six sleeves and will join the permanent range in 2017. Sold without capsules.

LUNGOLOGIE

Like the Mild and Intense models, the new Reveal Lungo crystal glass is sure to transform your Grand Cru tasting time into a memorable moment. The Reveal Lungo glass, available in boxed sets of two, will become par t of the permanent range in 2017.

NESPRESSO Boxed Sets

PURE CONNECTION

The emblematic Swiss design collection, designed by the BIG GAME studio, is adorned with an elegant pattern. Fine porcelain Espresso cups, Lungo cups and Mugs make each sip a celebration. Available in boxed sets of two.

COMFORT TO GO

With its double-walled stainless steel design, the Touch Travel Mug keeps your Grand Cru at just the right temperature, whether hot or cold. It can hold 345 ml of coffee – that’s three Lungos! This Limited Edition is trimmed in 2016’s festive colours and patterns.

POP-UP CHOCOLATE

Chocolate: a source of delicious inspiration. The crispy milk version is filled with toasted corn morsels and has addictive cereal notes. The dark, melt-in-yourmouth version blends nuances of cocoa with a touch of raspberry and a hint of acidity. The two 40-piece boxes come together in a gift set.

Some of the above products may not be available in your country.

NESPRESSO News

VIENNESE VARIATIONS

NESPRESSO TAKES INSPIRATION FROM AUSTRIAN PASTRY TO CREATE LIMITED EDITIONS FOR THE VARIATIONS FOR 2016. THE LIVANTO ESPRESSO, INTENSITY 6, CREATES TRUE AROMATIC ARTISTRY WITH THE FLAVOURS OF THREE DELECTABLE AUSTRIAN PASTRIES. By Nadia Hamam Illustration Lauren Mortimer

SACHERTORTE It’s said that the original recipe is a secret! This treat was first created in 1832 on the orders of a prince. The moist, round cake contains a thin layer of apricot jam between two layers of chocolate sponge cake. Topped with thick, dark- chocolate icing, it is traditionally served with whipped cream. Sacher tor te Variations delicately pairs the well-rounded and balanced Livanto with a sweet chocolate flavour tinged with notes of apricot.

APFELSTRUDEL A flaky puff pastry plump with chunks of apple, a hint of cinnamon and, if desired, raisins: apple strudel is a national treasure! It can be topped with whipped cream. Apfelstrudel Variations weaves accords with the wellrounded, balanced Livanto and luscious notes of pastry, baked apples and cinnamon.

LINZER TORTE Shor t pastry, red fruits – usually red currants – and spices are the ingredients in this pastry from the city of Linz. With its signature latticed top crust, it is said to be the oldest cake in the world. Linzer Tor te Variations harmonises the aromas of Livanto’s subtle roasting with those of red fruit and the tor te’s spicy notes.

NESPRESSO News

CAFÉ NESPRESSO

GRANDS CRUS & GOURMET TREATS

AFTER THE FIRST OPENED IN VIENNA,LONDON IS NOW HOME TO THE SECOND CAFÉ NESPRESSO.GRAND CRUS AND GOURMET TREATS,TAKE-AWAY SERVICE AND CAPSULES FOR SALE.IT’S MORE THAN A CAFÉ – IT’S AN EMBASSY. By Nadia Hamam Photos Luke PD Freeman The new Nespresso location proudly bears the brand’s emblems in the City, on the street of Cheapside. The soothing, contemporary interior beckons you to take your time, whether for a coffee break in solitude or a professional meeting. It is a place to sip a Grand Cru straight or in one of nearly two dozen recipes prepared by a barista. To enjoy with your beverage, there are salads and pastries, delicious new creations presented daily, offering new taste experiences to be paired with the Grands Crus. All for eating in or taking away, since you can get your supply of capsules with the automated Nespresso Cube service. A great way to combine Nespresso business with Nespresso pleasure.

> Café Nespresso, 100 Cheapside, London

MACHINES

& COLLECTIONS

CITIZ (White)

CITIZ (Black)

CITIZ (Chrome)

CITIZ (Cherry Red)

CITIZ (Silver)

CITIZ (Chrome)

FIND AND ORDER ALL MACHINES AND COLLECTIONS ON OUR WEBSITE: WWW.NESPRESSO.COM SOME OF THE ABOVE PRODUCTS MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE IN YOUR COUNTRY.

Actual products may differ from photos. Nespresso reserves the right to modify its products without notice.

CITIZ AND CITIZ&MILK HAVE A FRESH LOOK,NOW IN NEW COMBINATIONS OF MATERIALS,COLOURS AND FINISHES.IT’S THE PERFECT TIME TO SHOW OFF THE FULL CITIZ RANGE.

NESPRESSO Selection

CITIZ&MILK (White)

CITIZ&MILK (Black)

CITIZ&MILK (Chrome)

CITIZ&MILK (Cherry Red)

CITIZ&MILK (Silver)

CITIZ&MILK (Chrome)

NEVER WITHOUT MY CAPSULES NESPRESSO’S DELIVERY SERVICE IS NOW EVEN FASTER AND MORE AFFORDABLE. It’s never been easier to get your supply of capsules! Now you can have your order delivered straight to your door in the space of a few hours*.Delivery can be free,depending on the number of capsules ordered,so try this improved service today! Unless you’re truly hooked on shopping in your favourite Boutique,why deprive yourself of such exclusive,personalised service? Nespresso is always finding ways to make its services even more responsive and effective,from the order you place to the beverage you enjoy in your cup,all to ensure Member satisfaction. *Delivery times vary from country to country.Visit www.nespresso.com for more information

NESPRESSO IS NEAR YOU, WHEREVER YOU MAY BE, 24/7

IN A FEW CLICKS ON WWW.NESPRESSO.COM

BY PHONE USING YOUR NESPRESSO CLUB’S TOLL-FREE NUMBER

WITH THE NESPRESSO APP FOR PHONES AND TABLETS

LOBSTER SCONES & VIVALTO LUNGO DECAFFEINATO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Vivalto Lungo Decaffeinato (6 x 110 ml).

For the recipe: One 800 g lobster - 1 bouquet garni - 2 celery stalks - 300 g cooked peas - 1 fresh chopped onion. For 6 scones: 450 g + 30 g flour - 100 g oat flour - 2 packets baking powder - 2 tbsp. cane sugar - 1 tsp. salt - 110 g butter - 300 ml milk - 1 beaten egg. For the mayonnaise: 1 egg yolk - 1 tsp. mustard - salt - pepper Cayenne pepper - 100 ml oil.

Cook the lobster for 10 minutes in boiling salted water with the bouquet garni. n Drain the lobster, let cool and shell. n Preheat oven to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4). n Place the flours, yeast, sugar, salt and butter in a food processor bowl and blend. n When the mixture is sandy, add the milk, then mix until it forms a ball. n On a floured work surface, spread dough out to 3 cm thickness, then cut out 6 rounds, each 5 cm in diameter. Place the rounds across an oven tray

covered with baking paper, brush them with the beaten egg and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. n For the mayonnaise, place the egg yolk in a bowl with the mustard, salt, pepper and 1 pinch of Cayenne pepper, then gradually drizzle the oil into the mixture while whisking. n Mix the lobster meat with finely diced celery, peas, onion and the mayonnaise. Serve with the scones. n Serve with a Vivalto Lungo Decaffeinato (110 ml).

GREEN BURGER & ROMA SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes RISING TIME: 5 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Roma (6 x 25 ml).

For the buns: 500 g flour - 10 g yeast - 1 tsp. baking powder - 1 level tsp. salt - 2 tbsp. olive oil - 125 g washed fresh spinach - 30 g oatmeal. For the burgers: 300 g ground beef - 100 g oatmeal - 200 g cooked peas - 1 fresh chopped onion - salt - fresh-ground pepper - 1 knob of butter. For the vinaigrette: 4 tbsp. olive oil - 2 tbsp. cider vinegar 1 capsule of Roma (25 ml). Garnish vegetables: ½ cucumber 2 tomatoes - spinach leaves - 1 fresh minced onion.

Boil the spinach for 5 minutes in 20 ml water and then blend the spinach and cooking water in a mixer. n Let cool and add the yeast. n In a mixer bowl, mix flour, baking powder, salt and oil. n Add the water-yeast-spinach mixture and mix in spurts. n Place the dough in a large floured bowl. Let rise for 4 hours. n Once risen, form 6 dough balls on a work surface. n Place balls on the oven tray covered with baking paper, brush with water and sprinkle with oatmeal. Let rise another hour. n Preheat oven to 200° C (400°F,

gas mark 6). n Bake buns 15 to 20 minutes. n Mix the vinaigrette ingredients with salt and pepper. n Mix the ground beef with the peas, onions and oatmeal. Add salt and pepper and form burger patties. n Pan-fry in a small amount of butter, 2 to 3 minutes each side. n Cut the buns in half, spread the vinaigrette over the inner bun surfaces. n Place one burger between each bun, along with the sliced cucumber and tomato, spinach and onion. n Serve with a 25 ml Roma

Ristretto.

View Collection Lungo cup (Nespresso). Bowl (Fleux).

Saucers (BHV Marais). Cup (Caravane Emporium).

Production Marie Leteuré Photo Jérôme Bilic

POTATO-GRILLED BACON MASH & FORTISSIO LUNGO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 45 minutes INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Fortissio Lungo (6 x 110 ml).

For the mash: 800 g potatoes - 100 g crème fraîche or sour cream 50 g butter + 6 x 10 g butter - 8 slices smoked bacon - salt fresh-ground pepper - 1 bunch chives - breadcrumbs.

Peel the potatoes and cook in salted boiling water for 20 to 25 minutes. n Preheat oven to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4). n Grill the bacon slices for about 5 minutes on the oven tray covered with baking paper, then break into pieces. n Mash the drained potatoes while adding the

cream, butter, salt, pepper and, at the end, the chopped chives. n Divide this mixture into 6 buttered ramekins, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, add a knob of butter. n Bake in oven for about 20 minutes until golden brown. n Serve with a Fortissio Lungo

(110 ml).

CHEDDAR GUINNESS BREAD, SALMON AND SCRAMBLED EGGS & ARPEGGIO DECAFFEINATO SERVES SIX PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 20 minutes RISING TIME: 5 hours INGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Arpeggio Decaffeinato (6 x 25 ml)

+ 125 ml hot water. For the bread: 250 g + 30 g flour - 250 g wholemeal flour - 50 g + 30 g small-flake (“quick”) oatmeal - 50 g mixed seeds/grains for bread - 3 tbsp. brown sugar - 2 packets yeast - 1 tsp. salt - 50 g butter 150 g grated cheddar cheese - 1 chopped fresh onion - 350 ml Guinness beer - 4 slices Irish smoked salmon - 3 sprigs dill. For the eggs: 10 eggs - 4 tbsp. crème fraîche or sour cream - salt - pepper.

Place the flours, oats, seeds/ grains, sugar, yeast, salt and half the butter in a food processor bowl, mix together. n Add the cheddar and onion, mix in 2-second spurts, then pour in the beer and mix again. n Place this dough in a large floured bowl, cover and let rise 4 hours. n Form into a long loaf, brush the top with the remaining melted butter and sprinkle with oatmeal. Let rise another hour. n Preheat oven to 200° C (400°F,

gas mark 6), place bread in oven with a ramekin of water next to it. n Bake 20 minutes. n Beat the eggs with the cream, add salt and pepper, and cook over low heat until they begin to firm. n Place the smoked salmon slice on the sliced bread, sprinkle with dill, serve with scrambled eggs on the side. n Serve with an Americano made with a 25 ml Arpeggio Decaffeinato. Pour the coffee in

the cup and then add hot water.

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

Dishes (Jars).

Dishes (BHV Marais).

Production Marie Leteuré Photo Jérôme Bilic

GREEN BURGER & ROMA

CHEDDAR GUINNESS BREAD, SALMON AND SCRAMBLED EGGS & ARPEGGIO DECAFFEINATO

LOBSTER SCONES & VIVALTO LUNGO DECAFFEINATO

POTATO-GRILLED BACON MASH & FORTISSIO LUNGO

ADDRESSES

FIND ALL THE DUBLIN LOCATIONS REFERRED TO IN THIS ISSUE.

1 LAWLOR'S BUTCHERS

RATHMINES 143 Rathmines Road Upper, Dublin 6 ' +353 (0)1 497 3313 2 CONNOLLY'S FISH COMPANY 135 Rathmines Road Upper, Dublin 6 ' +353 (0)1 491 2863 stevieconnollyseafood.com 3 THE WILD GOOSE

GRILL 1 Sandford Road, Dublin 6 ' +353 (0)1 491 2377 thewildgoosegrill.ie 4 GROGANS

15 William Street South, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 677 9320 groganspub.ie 5 MANIFESTO 208 Rathmines Road Lower, Dublin 6 ' +353 (0)1 629 8090 manifestorestaurant.ie 6 GATE THEATRE

Cavendish Row, Parnell Square, Dublin 1 ' +353 (0)1 874 4045 gatetheatre.ie 7 THE OLYMPIA THEATRE

72 Dame Street, Dublin 2

' 0818 719 330

olympia.ie

8 HERBERT PARK Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 ' +353 (0)1 668 4364 dublincity.ie 9 ROYAL DUBLIN

SOCIETY Merrion Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 ' +353 (0)1 668 0866 rds.ie qp M O'BRIENS

8-9 Sussex Terrace, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 676 2851 m-obriens.ie

qd RED ISLAND Skerries, Co. Fingal qf STOOP YOUR HEAD Harbour Road, Skerries, Co. Fingal ' +353 (0)1 849 2085 stoopyourhead.ie qg PICHET

15 Trinity Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 677 1060 pichetrestaurant.ie qh AVOCA MALAHIDE

fh FISH SHACK CAFE

sh THE GRAFTON BARBER

dk KLAW 5A Crown Alley, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 549 3443 klaw.ie

fj GUINNESS

51 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 679 6984 graftonbarbers.com sj SAINT ANNE'S PARK

Clontarf East, Dublin 5 ' +353 (0)1 833 1859 dublincity.ie

126 Leeson Street Upper, Dublin 4 ' +353 (0)1 660 2480 forestandmarcy.ie

dl BASTIBLE 111 South Circular Road, Dublin 8 ' +353 (0)1 473 7409 bastible.com

sk THE STAGS HEAD

louisfitzgerald.com/ stagshead

18 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 678 8872 etto.ie

qj THE BAILEY

sl THE MERRION HOTEL

fq FOREST AVENUE

1-4 Duke Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 670 4939 baileybarcafe.com qk VICAR STREET

58-59 Thomas Street, Merchants Quay, Dublin 8 ' +353 (0)1 775 5800 vicarstreet.com ql POWERSCOURT TOWNHOUSE CENTRE 59 William Street South, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 679 4144 powerscourtcentre.ie

1 Dame Court, Dublin 2

' +353 (0)1 679 3687

Merrion Street Upper, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 603 0600 merrionhotel.com

dp DUBLIN CITY GALLERY

- THE HUGH LANE CHARLEMONT HOUSE Parnell Square North, Dublin 1 ' +353 (0)1 222 5550 hughlane.ie dq TRINITY COLLEGE

DUBLIN,THE UNIVERSITY OF DUBLIN College Green, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 896 1000 tcd.ie

sp THE PIGEON HOUSE

The Delgany Inn, Delgany, Co. Wicklow ' +353 (0)1 287 7103 pigeonhouse.ie sq POWERSCOURT HOTEL

ds SCOUT

5 Smock Alley Court, Essex Street West, Dublin 8 ' +353 (0)1 677 8846 scoutdublin.com

Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow ' +353 (0)1 274 8888 powerscourthotel.com

dd ULYSSES RARE BOOKS 10 Duke Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 671 8676 rarebooks.ie

ss BALFES Balfe Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 646 3353 balfes.ie

df MULLIGAN'S 8 Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 677 5582 mulligans.ie

sd DYLAN BRADSHAW

Lansdowne Road, Dublin 4 ' +353 (0)1 238 2300 avivastadium.ie qs THE BRIDGE 1859

sf FALLON & BYRNE

13 Ballsbridge Terrace, Dublin 4 ' +353 (0)1 660 2804 thebridge1859.ie

dj FOREST & MARCY

88-95 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 605 6666 brownthomas.com

STORE Malahide Castle & Gardens, Malahide, Co. Fingal ' +353 (0)1 893 1900 avoca.com

SALON 56 William Street South, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 671 9353 dylanbradshaw.com

qq AVIVA STADIUM

sg BROWN THOMAS

11-17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 472 1010 fallonandbyrne.com

dg THE LITTLE MUSEUM OF DUBLIN 15 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 661 1000 littlemuseum.ie dh FISH SHACK CAFE

SANDYCOVE 1 Martello Terrace Sandycove, Co. Dublin ' +353 (0)1 284 4555 fishshack.ie

fp ETTO

8 Sussex Terrace, Dublin 4 ' +353 (0)1 667 8337 forestavenuerestaurant.ie fs LOCKS 1 WINDSOR TERRACE 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 ' +353 (0)1 416 3655 locksrestaurant.ie

MALAHIDE 1 The Diamond New Street, Malahide, Co. Fingal ' +353 (0)1 544 0544 fishshack.ie

STOREHOUSE St James’s Gate, Dublin 8 ' +353 (0)1 408 4800 guinness-storehouse.com fk THANK POTATO

C/O GALLAGHERS BOXTY HOUSE 20-21 Temple Bar, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 677 2762 boxtyhouse.ie fl THE BERNARD SHAW

11-12 Richmond Street South, Dublin 2 ' +353 85 775 4686 thebernardshaw.com

gp ARRAN STREET EAST

1 Little Green Street, Dublin 7 ' +353 83 814 6672 arran-street-east.myshopify.com

fd THE GREENHOUSE Dawson Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 676 7015 thegreenhouserestaurant.ie ff THE PIG’S EAR

4 Nassau Street, Dublin 2

' +353 (0)1 670 3865

thepigsear.ie

fg FISH SHACK CAFE

TEMPLE BAR 2 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 ' +353 (0)1 544 0700 fishshack.ie

NESPRESSO BOUTIQUES & CLUB

FIND THE DUBLIN BOUTIQUES ON THE MAP. NESPRESSO CLUB IRELAND: TOLL-FREE NUMBER 1 800 81 26 60

1 Nespresso Boutique, 22 Duke Street, Dublin 2 2 Nespresso Boutique, Brown Thomas, 88-95 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 LOCATE ALL THE BOUTIQUE ADDRESSES AROUND THE WORLD USING THE NESPRESSO MOBILE APP FOR SMARTPHONES AND TABLETS.

MAP from www.mapscd.com ILLUSTRATIONS Matthieu Carré

DUBLIN

COFFEE MARK Joseph O’Connor

TH E E TE RNAL MOVE ME NT Ulysse Nardin, from the movement of the sea to the perpetual innovation of Haute Horlogerie. For over 170 years, the powerful movement of the ocean has inspired Ulysse Nardin in its singular quest: to push back the limits of mechanical watchmaking, time and time again.

Marine Chronometer 60 hours power reserve Self-winding manufacture Silicium technology ulysse-nardin.com

Nespresso Magazine #27 Dublin - English edition

Articles inside

LOCAL FIGURE

AN EXTRAORDINARY STORY

URBAN CULTURE

CULT OBJECT

CITIZEN OF HONOUR

CHEFS TO WATCH

THE N MOMENT

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

EIGHT CLUB MEMBERS SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE PLACES MUST SEE 10 REASONS TO GOTO DUBLIN

GREAT GETAWAYS WOMEN’S RUGBY SISTER SCRUM

CITY GUIDE

CALENDAR