Travel Without Moving

Travel Without Moving

Extracts from Voyagers’ Journal Entries

by Federico Ciamei

Travel Without Moving

Extracts from Voyagers’ Journal Entries

by Federico Ciamei

Travel Without Moving

FOREWORDS

Extracts from Voyagers’ Journal Entries

by Federico Ciamei

Take this Book and cause it to be read to you. For ye shall find therein all kind of wonderful things, and the divers histories of the great Hermenia, and of Persia, and of the Land of the Tartars, and of India, and of many another country of which our Book doth speak, particularly and in regular succession, according to the description of this traveller, as he saw with his own eyes.

Abbreviations guide: MCF Monteverde

Cloud Forest AR Aberdare Range SNP Saguaro

National Park TP Torres del Paine ­ BKNP Brahmaputra Kaziranga

National Park GD Gobi Desert,

Lost City of

Khara Koto C Currawinya ­ DI Dahlak Islands, Underwater

Fields of the

Red Sea AO Arctic Ocean

Some things indeed there be therein which he beheld not; but these he heard from men of credit and veracity. And we shall set down things seen as seen, and things heard as heard only, so that no jot of falsehood may mar the truth of our Book, and that all who shall read it or hear it read may put full faith in the truth of all its contents.

Marco Polo, circa 1298

Photography by Federico Ciamei Designed by Think Work Observe Edition of 5, May 2015

II

III Fig. 1

TWM — MCF We set out, in company with Pedro, for the Falls of the Macho, a tremendous cataract leaping full three hundred feet without a break. The Indians of Orosi tell you there is an enchanted mule stabled in the bright green basin into which those waters plunge, and that at night, laden with bags of gold and silver, the mule swims to the surface, climbs the huge steep rocks which overbangs the basin, and, speeding through the forest, deposit his burden in some grove or cavern which has not been yet discovered, and, probably, never shall.

Just before we got to the Falls — in the depth of the forest — we were pelted by a colony of monkeys, black bodies and white heads, lodged in the topmost tufts of the trees under which we were tramping — were furiously pelted by them — pelted with broken branches, slices of bark, masses of leaves and parasites. The assault continuing and inconveniencing us a good deal, we had to fire upon the rioters. But it was not until three of them had tumbled through the limbs, which in great measure protected them from the shot, that the inhospitable mob dispersed.

Fig. 2

Fig. 2

MCF

MCF

MCF

MCF

Fig. 3

TWM — AR A short distance from the camp I was attracted by a sound like the low roaring of a buffalo, near the top of a steep, wooded slope.

As we were short of food, I set off to hunt it up. Peering about for some time to try to spot the exact locality of my game, I was nearly thrown on my beam­ends by a savage growl from a dense patch of tall grass and bamboos.

Looking towards the spot, I saw a fine leopard a few feet in front of me, showing its teeth in a ferocious They could not, however, get up manner, and crouching as if it spring upon me. Before I could fire it had an enthusiasm for it, neitherwould they could bounded outcold of view. Rushing to the top of the comprehend mine. They had cursed the ridgethe to get in unmitigated terms throughout live­sight long of it again, I was suddenly arrested by an object which fairly took my night, as they toasted their sides alternatively breathtoaway. before roaring fires, quite unable sleep.Before me, in the foreground, lay a splendid interchange of grove and glade, of We had again to wait a couple hours till forest andwithin plain, stretching in billowy reaches the sun warmed up the air, and there, a marshy expanse of Kopè­Kopè. mile of the equator, I had to down warm to mythe booted Beyond rose foot by the fire as I stood enveloped in anabruptly and very precipitously the black, uninhabited mountains of the range. overcoat, with hands crammed in my trouser Next morning I had the supreme pockets. satisfaction, on looking out of my tent, to see the grass covered with unmistakable hoar­frost.

This phenomenon astonished my men beyond measure; it was the first time they had seen it.

Fig. 3 AR

AR

AR

TWM — SNP In this chapter I shall tell you of my arrival among the Cocomaricopa nation, a journey of more than one hundred leagues, and in the others the rest. I went toward the north and returned by the west, travelling in going and returning more than three hundred and eighty leagues, from the twenty­four of September to the twenty­ninth of October, 1700, and in the meantime I solemnized forty­two baptisms of infants and sick persons.

On the twenty­seventh, having solemnized after mass nine baptisms, seven of little ones and two of the sick adults, we set out for the watering place of Santa Eulalia and arrived, after a journey of twelve leagues, about an hour after nightfall, because we had been detained in a ranchería of more than three hundred Indians. Having spoken to them the Word of God, they made an agreement with us to the effect that if there should be a missionary father all would assemble to be baptized at San Ambrosio.

Fig. 4

Fig. 4 SNP

SNP

SNP

SNP

Fig. 5

TWM — TP It was arranged that night that Mr. B. and my brother and myself should make an expedition with Gregorio, towards the three strange peaks already mentioned. We want to gather some samples of the unknown luminous plant that the natives are using for decoration, we named it Noctiluca. In order to spare our horses, no cumbersome articles were to be taken, a kettle, some biscuits, coffee, and meat, being all we contemplated carrying with us, except, of course, our guanaco furs and guns.

Thus equipped, we started the next morning shortly after sunrise. Our trip began badly. We had not gone far before my brother got into a morass, out of which he had no little difficulty in extricating himself; and as for his horse, at one time we thought the poor brute would never get out again, so deep had it sunk in the trembling boggy ground.

Proceeding on our journey, we followed Gregorio at a merry trot towards the great ravine, through which flowed that broad and rapid mountain stream, which it was necessary for us to ford.

Fig. 5 TP

TP

TP

TWM — BKNP Sir, the Chinese lama who was sent with me sold me to a Jongpon as a slave and himself fled away with government instruments that were in his charge. On account of this, the journey proved a bad one.

However, I, Kinthup, have prepared 500 logs according to the order of Captain Harman and am prepared to throw 50 logs per day into the Tsangpo river from Bipung in Pemako, from the 5th to the 15th of the tenth Tibetan month of the year called Chhuluk.

BKNP

BKNP

BKNP

TWM — GD When you leave the city of Campichu you ride for twelve days, and then reach a city called Etzina, which is towards the north on the verge of the Sandy Desert; it belongs to the Province of Tangut. The people are Idolaters, and possess plenty of camels and cattle, and the country produces a number of good falcons, both Sakers and Lanners.

The inhabitants live by their cultivation and their cattle, for they have no trade. At this city you must needs lay in victuals for forty days, because when you quit Etzina, you enter on a desert which extends forty days’ journey to the north, and on which you meet with no habitation nor baiting­place.

In the summer­time, indeed you will fall in with people, but in the winter the cold is too great. You also meet with wild beats (for there are some small pine­woods here and there), and with numbers of wild asses. When you have travelled these forty days across the Desert you come to a certain province lying to the north. Its name you shall hear presently.

Fig. 6

Fig. 6 GD

GD

GD

GD

TWM — C Riding on camels is a much more pleasant process than I anticipated, and for my work I find it much better than riding on horseback. The saddles, as you are aware, are double, so I sit on the back portion behind the hump, and pack my instruments in front. I can thus ride on, keeping my journal and making calculations; and need only stop the camel when I want to take any bearings carefully; but the barometers must be read and registered without halting. The animals are very quiet and easily managed, much more so than horses.

Fig. 7

Fig. 7 C

C

C

TWM — DI Below Ptolemais of the Hunts, at a distance of about three thousand stadia, there is Adulis, a port established by law, lying at the inner end of a bay that runs in toward the south. Before the harbor lies the so­called Mountain Island, about two hundred stadia sea­ward from the very head of the bay, with the shores of the mainland close to it on both sides. Ships bound for this port now anchor here because of attacks from the land.

They used formerly to anchor at the very head of the bay, by an island called Diodorus, close to the shore, which could be reached on foot from the land; by which means the barbarous natives attacked the island. Opposite Mountain Island, on the mainland twenty stadia from shore, lies Adulis, a fair­sized village, from which there is a three­days’ journey to Coloe, an inland town and the first market for ivory. From that place to the city of the people called Auxumites there is a five days’ journey more; to that place all the ivory is brought from the country beyond the Nile through the district called Cyeneum, and thence to Adulis. Practically the whole number of elephants and rhinoceros that are killed live in the places inland, although at rare intervals they are hunted on the seacoast even near Adulis.

Before the harbor of that market­town, out at sea on the right hand, there lie a great many little sandy islands called Alalaei, yielding tortoise­shell, which is brought to market there by the Fish­Eaters.

Fig. 8

Fig. 8 DI

DI

DI

TWM — AO For a day and a night we were carried quietly along by the breeze, with land still in sight. But with the next day’s dawn the wind rose to a gale, with a heavy sea and a dark sky; we found ourselves unable to take in sail.

We surrendered ourselves to the elements, let her run, and were storm­driven for more than eleven weeks. On the eightieth day the sun came out quite suddenly, and we found ourselves close to a snowy island, round which the waves were murmuring gently, the sea having almost fallen by this time. We brought her to land, disembarked, and after our long tossing lay a considerable time idle on shore; we at last made a start, however, and leaving thirty of our number to guard the ship I took the other twenty on a tour of inspection.

Fig. 9

Fig. 9 AO

AO

AO

Sources (Texts)

Forewords The Travels of Marco Polo https://ebooks.adelaide.edu.au/ p/polo/marco/travels/prologue. html MCF digitalcollections.nypl.org/ items/510d47e1­29f5­a3d9­e040 ­e00a18064a99 AR Through Masai Land (A journey of exploration among the snowclad volcanic mountains and strange tribes of Eastern Equatorial Africa) Joseph Thomson — London, Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, 1887 archive.org/details/throughmasai land01thomuoft SNP Kino’s Historical Memoir of Pimeria Alta (An Account of the Beginnings of California, Sonora and Arizona) Eusebio Francisco Kino, 1919 archive.org/details/kinoshistorical m00kino TP Across Patagonia Lady Florence Dixie — Richard Bentley and Son, 1880 archive.org/details/across patagonia00dixiuoft BKNP jstor.org/stable/pdf/201464.pdf GD The Travels of Marco Polo, Vol. 1, Marco Polo and Rustichello da Pisa — Library of Alexandria archive.org/details/marcopolo00 polouoft C Wills letter to Frederick Byerly (From the Journals and Letters of William John Wills, Edited by his father, William Wills) Terrick Terrick — Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1863 archive.org/details/successful explor00willrich

DI The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea: Travel and Trade in the Indian Ocean by a Merchant of the First Century Anonymous — New York, Longmans, Green, and Co., 1912 archive.org/details/cu31924 030139236

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:California_or_New_Carolina_ Place_of_Apostolic_Works _of_Society_of_Jesus_at_the_ Septentrional_America.tif

AO The True History (Translated

by H. W. Fowler and F. G. Fowler) Lucian of Samosata archive.org/details/lucianstrue histo00luciiala

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:Saguaro_fruit.jpg

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:Mission_San_Xavier_del_Bac, _Tucson,_Arizona,_1902.jpg

Sources (Images)

MCF (Fig. 2) digitalcollections.nypl.org /items/510d47e1­29f5­a3d9­e040­e00 a18064a99 biodiversitylibrary.org/page /24893177#page/206/mode/1up

ebay.ie/itm/Antique­Lithograph­ PAPAGOS­Indians­by­Arthur­Schott­ circa­1858­/220630888910

digitalcollections.nypl.org /items/510d47d9­8488­a3d9­e040 ­e00a18064a99

TP (Fig. 5) archive.org/stream /acrosspatagonia00dixiuoft# page/1/mode/1up

biodiversitylibrary.org/page /23965173

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:%2BLady_Florence_Dixie _Vanity_Fair.jpg

digitalcollections.nypl.org/items /510d47d9­5222­a3d9­e040­e00 a18064a99

ebay.it/itm/Winifred­Austen ­GUANACO­1908­Antique­Illustration ­Print­/361208569659

digitalcollections.nypl.org/items /510d47da­c2f0­a3d9­e040­e00a 18064a99#/?uuid=510d47da-­c2f1­ a3d9­e040­e00a18064a99

loc.gov/pictures/item/96509028

archive.org/stream/voyagedansla mr91847orbi#page/n183/mode/2up AR (Fig. 3) archive.org/stream/through masailand01thomuoft#page/316 /mode/1up

archive.org/stream/across patagonia00dixiuoft#page/n202 /mode/1up BKNP commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:Kinthup.jpg digitalcollections.nypl.org /items/510d47d9­6e36­a3d9­e040 ­e00a18064a99

archive.org/stream/throughmasaila nd01thomuoft#page/249/mode/1up  archive.org/stream/throughmasaila nd01thomuoft#page/217/mode/1up

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:Historical_Map_of_Sikkim_in _northeastern_India.jpg

archive.org/stream/throughmasaila nd01thomuoft#page/235/mode/1up

GD (Fig. 6) archive.org/stream /marcopolo00polouoft#page/n7 /mode/2up

SNP (Fig. 4) archive.org/stream /kinoshistoricalm00kino#page /225/mode/1up

VI

digitalcollections.nypl.org/items /510d47da­ac20­a3d9­e040­e00 a18064a99

digitalcollections.nypl.org/items /510d47dc­4585­a3d9­e040­e00 a18064a99

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:AurelSteinWithDog.jpg

doconversations.files.wordpress. com/2012/05/dsc_0027.jpg

C (Fig.7) archive.org/stream /successfulexplor00willrich#page /n9/mode/2up

AO commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:Carta_Marina.jpeg

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:Nicholas_Chevalier_­-_ Memorandum_of_the_Start_of _the_Exploring_Expedition,_1860.jpg

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki /File:Lucianus.jpg

flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8404611775 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8404618881 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8404624935 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8404632243 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8405710558 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8405692218 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8405713694 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8405722636 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8636468047 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/9507141015 flickr.com/photos /biodivlibrary/8404608559 DI (Fig. 8) archive.org/stream /cu31924030139236#page/n293 /mode/1up biodiversitylibrary.org/page /32495580#page/35/mode/1up

VII

Travel Without Moving Extracts from Voyagers’ Journal Entries

by Federico Ciamei

Photography by Federico Ciamei Designed by Think Work Observe Papers Fedrigoni Splendorlux Fedrigoni Tatami Fedrigoni Savile Row GMund Color 57 Printed in Italy Edition of 5, May 2015

Copy n°

VIII