Ocean View Magazine - Issue 13

OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Issue 1 Volume 2 2014

It’s Time To Enjoy An Ocean View

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Welcome

Over the last decade, Ocean View has explored some of the most exotic places on earth, from remote islands in the Atlantic Ocean, to practically untouched places in the Americas. In this issue, we head to an island a little closer to home. Five miles from home, in fact. The Isle of Wight may be a short ferry ride from the Hampshire coast but, as I soon discover on a weekend escapade, this rural isle is laden with lush rolling fields, miles of sandy coastline and a microclimate that makes me feel closer to Portugal than Portsmouth, on page 38.

Phil Akser, intrepid traveller and founder of luxury tour operator Captain’s Choice, speaks to Ocean View about the joy of travelling alone – of going for a jog in a new place and choosing to experience the world through his own eyes and not the viewfinder of a camera, on page 54. But travel isn’t all about physical exploration. As we learn from David Charles Manners’ book Limitless Sky, philosophical enlightenment hides in unexpected corners of the globe, and it can shake everything you think you know about yourself and the world around you, on page 36.

Here, we live for the little pleasures in life – like tortellini tasting on the shores of Italy’s Lake Garda, from page 16, watching the sunset from a beach in Aruba, from page 46, snorkeling in crystalline lagoons in Figi, from page 8, and even putting your feet up in the garden and getting lost in the glossy pages of your very own copy of Ocean View…

Lake Garda page 16

So sit back and enjoy the journey…

Zoe Thomas Editor OCEAN VIEW 3

We’re laid-back 4 OCEAN VIEW

We’re upbeat

W

We’re Egypt

See you by the Red Sea SHARM EL SHEIKH - HURGHADA www.egypt.travel

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ISSUE 1, Volume 2 2014

Contents

OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Issue 1 Volume 2 2014

FREE

It’S tIme to enjoy An oCeAn VIew

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Cover Image: Blue Lagoon Cruises, Fiji – Yasawa Islands www.fiji.travel

Ocean View Magazine Managing Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfield lee@lifemediagroup.co.uk Commercial Director: Simon Skinner simon@lifemediagroup.co.uk Operations Director Clare Fermor clare@lifemediagroup.co.uk Advertising Sales Lottie Dowdeswell lottie@oceanviewuk.co.uk Editor: Zoe Thomas zoe@lifemediagroup.co.uk Production Manager: Harriet Weston harriet@lifemediagroup.co.uk Design Assistant Amy Watson amy@lifemediagroup.co.uk Accounts: Amelia Wellings: amelia@lifemediagroup.co.uk Subscriptions: Linda Grace linda@lifemediagroup.co.uk Published by: LMG SE LTD Park View House 19 The Avenue, Eastbourne, East Sussex, BN21 3YD 01323 411601 Printed by: Gemini Press Unit A1 Dolphin Way, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex, BN43 6NZ 01273 464884 All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Life Media Group LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press.

Copyright Life Media Group 2014 ©

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Fiji: Fijians dance to the rhythm of their own drum…and it’s a slow rhythm.

Spending It: We have picked some of the latest Cameras that will help you remember your summer holidays.

Lake Garda: Olive oil, tortellini and wine tasting on the Veronese Shores of Lake Garda Recipes: Andy Harris and photographer David Loftus meet the characters behind the intriguing food of Turkey Diving: Each year, over one million divers complete their PADI scuba diving course. But just what is it that entices so many to take the plunge?

Book Extract: David Charles Manners - Limitless Sky Weekend Breaks - Isle of Wight: Five miles from paradise. Find your own paradise on the Isle of Wight Hotel Review: Ocean View’s Lottie Doweswell reviews My Hotel and The Chilli Pickle in trendy Brighton Aruba: Feel your stresses fade away on a health and wellbeing break in Aruba…

The Born Explorer: Q&A with Phil Asker, the founder of luxury tour company Captain’s Choice In Venice without a Map: Sam Gardom visits Venice, Italy, following his heart and his nose to track down the best food in the city

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Don’t Rush…

It’s Fiji Fijians dance to the rhythm of their own drum…and it’s a slow rhythm

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verything about life on the 333 islands that make up the Melanesian country of Fiji is laid back and languid. Nobody rushes about in this region of the South Pacific. Locals walk everywhere: up the mountains to work on their plantations, along the roads to gather fruit, and to towns and villages to wile away evenings watching rugby and socialising with Kava, the national drink.

Fijians approach life with a smile, and even their greetings (Bula! ‘Hello, happy life!’) express joy and contentment.

Of all the islands, only 110 are permanently inhabited, with the most populous being Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, which together account for 87% of the archipelago’s population. Nadi International Airport is located on Viti Levu, meaning that this area is Fiji’s activity hub.

Where happiness finds you It is impossible to take life’s stresses and pressures with you to Fiji. If the blissful surroundings aren’t enough to soothe 10 OCEAN VIEW

you, the people here surely will with their positive life philosophy and famously friendly, open nature. This is why so many people come here for life’s biggest, most momentous occasions – especially those involving matters of the heart. In 2013, Fiji was ranked one of the most romantic getaway destinations in the world by the Virtuoso Luxe Report, putting these Pacific islands up there with the likes of France and Italy. With countless pristine beaches to stroll down hand-in-hand, plus a huge selection of exclusive resorts with luxurious service – it’s simply no wonder so many loved up couples choose this place for their honeymoon and wedding destinations.

Vanua Levu If you want to get away from the beaten track to discover something new, board a ferry or plane and head over to Fiji’s second largest island: Vanua Levu – otherwise known as Sandalwood Island.

Often described as one of the ‘tropics’ best kept secrets’, Vanua Levu is the ‘real’ Fiji,

where Labasa, the island’s main city, is just a single road lined with shops, and most of the roads that snake across the island are rutted dirt tracks. But look beyond its apparent simplicity, and the beauty of this place will astound you. The island is a rural paradise, with secluded beaches, miles of sugar cane plantations, deep green rainforests, volcanoes, cascading waterfalls, and hot springs to entice in adventurous spirits.

At over 100 miles long, Vanua Levu offers a whole host of attractions and activities.

Dive in aquamarine waters with tropical fish, mountain bike down sandy trails with spectacular views, dive into a cool natural waterfall, or take a trip to some of the smaller surrounding islands. All of Vanua Levu’s activities promise to revitalise the mind and soul, and open visitors’ eyes to a new, calmer way of living.

Emaho Sekawa Resort Just 30 minutes from Savusavu airport, the 5* Emaho Sekawa boasts a private infinity

Fun Facts about Fiji: • Did you know, Fiji has been voted the happiest place in the world?

• There are three official Fijian languages; English, Fiji Hindi and Bau Fijian, • Did you know, the whole of Fiji consists of only 10% land. 90% of the Fiji territory is water!

• Fijians are obsessed with rugby!

Most islanders consider rugby to be the national sport! (The Fiji sevens team is one of the top teams in the world.)

• Fiji’s highest point is mt. Tomanivi at 4, 344 ft.

• Fiji has 28 airports (but only 4 of them have paved runways.)

• Did you know, Fiji’s waters are home to over 1, 500 species of sea life?

• World Champion surfer, Kelly Slater, won the 2013 Volcom Fiji Pro last year hosted at Fiji’s Cloudbreak.

plunge pool, spa and all-inclusive meals.

Book a private villa with balconies, outdoor showers and an open-air living room, and make sure you stop off at the spa for an invigorating massage or beauty treatment. www.emahofiji.com Sekawa Beach Cottages Sleep in a cottage nestled into the cool Fijian forest, on a two kilometres of private beach edged with turquoise waters. Every evening you can enjoy authentic Fijian food, slowly steamed in banana leaves in an earth oven.

While you might feel like you’re miles from anywhere, all cottages come well equipped with WiFi and flat-screen LCD TVs. The cottages are all within easy walking distance of a range of activities, including coconut husking, guided walks, kayaking, snorkeling and table tennis. www.fiji.travel/accommodation/sekawabeach-cottage OCEAN VIEW 11

The Mamanucas The Mamanucas are a chain of 20 islands near Nadi and Denarau.

Here, at the filming location of ‘Cast Away’ and ‘Survivor, you really ditions apply. Flights are sold a first firsthave servedslipped basis and limited number of seats are available at willonfeel ascome if you selected Gatwick and Manchester flights. onto a film set – or into a dream! In crystal clear waters you can try your hand at windsurfing, parasailing, sailing, diving, or even dolphin watching. Whether you’re a solo traveller looking for an adventure, a couple hoping for romance or a family flying out to have fun, you will undoubtedly find something to inspire and delight you on The Mamanucas.

Cruise around the islands If you can’t bear to stay in one place for two long, why not take a luxurious boat trip around the warm waters, following spectacular coastlines from the comfort of a fully equipped yacht.

Legend Cruises Legend Cruises offers luxury transfers to Mamanuca Island Resorts, where you can choose from full or half day charters aboard the Sun Sport Sea Ray – a 63ft vessel with all the amenities plus champaigne cocktails and tropical fruit skewers upon arrival.

Bel’Mare Cruise Hop onboard this 86ft motor catamaran, available for crewed charters for up to 45 day guests, of six guests staying overnight in three state rooms each with en-suite bathrooms. Every day a gourmet lunch is prepared onboard, paired with New Zealand wines, local beers and soft drinks. The boat will sail to a number of popular swimming and snorkel spots, and guests have free reign over the onboard kayaks, jet skis and deck space.

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Snap It Happy We have chosen a selection of action ready cameras to capture any moment 5 4

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1. Fujifilm XP60, £129, www.fujifilm.eu/eu 2.SB-N10 Nikon Underwater Speedlight, Nikon, £929.99, store.nikon.co.uk 3. SB-900 AF Speedlight, Nikon, £417.99, store.nikon.co.uk 4. Macro Ring Lite MR-14EX II, Canon, £599.99, www.canon.co.uk 5. MUVI Atom Action Sport Camcorder, £75, www.sciencemuseumshop.co.uk 6. Canon PowerShot D30, £299, www.canon.co.uk 7. Samsung DV150F, £89.99, www.samsung.com/uk/home 8. COOLPIX S32 Pink, Nikon, £99.99, store.nikon.co.uk 9. Nikon 1 J4 Power Zoom Lens Kit Silver, £499.99, store.nikon.co.uk 10. Diana Mini, £49, www.sciencemuseumshop.co.uk 11. CANON LENS EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM, £1,199.99, www.canon.co.uk 12. Canon EOS 1200D, £349.99, www.canon.co.uk 13. Samsung GALAXY Camera (Wi-Fi), £249.99, www.samsung. com/uk/home 14. WP-N3 Nikon Waterproof Housing, Nikon, £749.99, store.nikon.co.uk

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A Taste of Life at the Lake

Olive oil, tortellini and wine tasting on the Veronese Shores of Lake Garda - Zoe Thomas Day One Beyond the plate-glass windows of the Vecchia Malcesine Ristorante, a ray of sunlight escapes from the stormy sky and casts a godly light over Lake Garda.

On the far shore to the north, the Alps give way to blue-green water where little sailing boats whip along in the breeze, dwarfed by the dramatic backdrop of snow-peaked mountains that border nearby Switzerland. It’s hard to believe that just four hours ago, I was sitting at Stansted airport eating a stale croissant.

I’ve escaped England for three days of the Fish & Chef festival in Italy, celebrating natural produce grown, caught and reared in and around the soils and waters of Lake Garda. Famous Michelin-Starred chefs have travelled from all over the country to host evenings in Malcesine, Garda, Peschiera, Cavainon Veronese and Bardolino, where they will inject their foodie flair into traditional Lake Garda ingredients.

Today and tonight, my home is Malcesine – a medieval village that clings to the foot of Mt Baldo in a jumble of terracotta roofs, narrow cobbled streets and peaceful little squares bustling with shoppers, playing children and pensive locals sipping coffee. Before I explore the village, I’m making a pit stop at award-winning chef Leandro Luppi’s restaurant to sample some local food and take in the building’s spectacular view over the lake. A ‘light lunch’ soon turns into a six-course spread, with 16 OCEAN VIEW

free flowing wine and some unusual combinations – most notably wasabi ice cream served alongside Lake Garda trout, which I conclude is bizarre but supremely delicious. Dessert comes in the form of a summery mango sorbet pudding on a tangy, creamy mousse, garnished with fresh flowers and a sprinkling of dried raspberries. The feast finally comes to an end (only a few hours before dinner time) with a long espresso and a big wodge of homemade biscotti – which I gallantly manage to find room for.

With a pleasantly full stomach and a slightly woozy wine-head, I leave Leandro’s little slice of paradise and meander through the village towards the castle, which juts out precariously from a rocky hillock over the lake. I immediately feel like I’ve been transported into a Shakespearean romance, surrounded by ancient castellated walls covered with creeping ivy, fertile gardens, lush green lawns and the defense tower standing proudly above the village, offering a spectacular vantage point over the lake and surrounding mountains. At any point I expect Romeo to come calling for his Juliet.

After exploring all of the castle’s ancient nooks and crumbling crannies – and after a quick look around the cleverly curated museum explaining the history of Malcesine, I decide to head back to my hotel for a quick rest (and to let lunch go down) before it’s time to start eating all over again.

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Hotel du Lac sits right on the edge of Lake Garda just south from Malcesine, where the clear waters practically lap at its terraces. I’m in the executive suite complete with a four-poster bed and a huge balcony overlooking the lake. With the sun beaming down on me, I head down to the beach to dip my toes in the icy water. In the height of summer people come to Hotel du Lac to sunbathe on the pebbly beach, jump off the jetty and swim in these safe, calm waters.

As spring is only just taking hold here, and snow still glistens from the mountaintops, I decide to leave the full submersion for another trip.

Tonight, we are being fed by 1* Michelin chef Felice Basso at the Hotel Baia Verde.

Fish & Chef is all about making fine cuisine accessible to everyone, while at the same time introducing top chefs to the produce of Lake Garda. True to Italian tradition, small but perfectly formed dishes roll out at a leisurely pace for four hours, accompanied by a generous selection of wines from nearby Cavalchina. As a dedicated pasta lover, I have to mention the fourth course: a dish of fresh Tagliatelli served with trout from the lake and a creamy pea mousse garnished with crispy bacon. It’s divine.

Another dish that lures my taste buds into a blissful coma is an ox cheek casserole with potatoes and almond sauce – cooked to a level of perfection I’m sure I’ll never experience again. After eight exquisite courses, including my second long espresso and biscotti of the day, it’s time to head back to my hotel for a short but comfortable sleep in my giant bed, before day two of my luxurious Italian jaunt.

appropriate word, considering the fact that I’m hanging above Malcesine at the dizzying height of 1,800ft, watching the lake get smaller and smaller as our cable car zips up the mountainside.

If you can handle heights, a trip up Mt Baldo in a cable car is a must. Choose a clear, sunny day to avoid disappearing into a great expanse of white, and go early before the tourists descend. Vital equipment includes sunglasses, a camera, and most importantly of all, a jumper.

It was 21ºC on the ground before our ascent. Up here in the mountains, there’s snow on the ground and the mercury’s on 1º with an icy wind – not somewhere you want to hang around in your shorts for too long. Luckily, there’s a café up here serving hot drinks and food so visitors can admire the incredible panorama with the added bonus of central heating.

Twenty minutes later and I’m back on the

“After a quick look around the Roman harbour, with its sapphire blue waters and stunning classic architecture”

Day Two I’m up bright and early – ‘up’ being the 18 OCEAN VIEW

sun-warmed ground, peeling off my layers and marveling at how small this town looks from nearly 2km above. My next stop is Paulo Bonomelli’s Olive Oil Farm, located in an ancient village called Torri del Benaco, a few miles south of Malcesine. After a quick look around the Roman harbour, with its sapphire blue waters and stunning classic architecture, I head up the hill past olive groves and pines, up to the farm where we meet the family producing some of the highest quality extra virgin olive oil in Italy.

The Ca’Rainene farm covers an area of 16 hectares with over 3,500 olive trees growing under the watchful eye of specialised agronomists. Everything here is done with absolute passion and precision to ensure each batch of olive oil is perfect. The harvest takes place at the beginning of ‘veraison’, which is when the fruit begins to ripen and the olives reach maximum concentration of just the right elements and nutrients.

The fruits are then ground by hand strictly within eight hours of the harvest, with each part of the process monitored and controlled carefully to ensure everything is executed correctly.

I soon find myself with the resulting product glistening in a blue glass in front of me. It’s time for the tasting. As wrong as it

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feels to be taking a big gulp of olive oil, I go along with the ride and am almost knocked over by the taste: a potent blend that is rich and fruity like freshly mown grass, with a spicy kick that gets you in the back of the throat and burns in a strangely satisfying way for a long while afterwards, like a good whiskey.

Find out more by calling 0039 045 6296711.

Armed with three bottles of olive oil to squeeze into my suitcase for lucky friends and family at home, I take leave and head on to another ‘light lunch’ at Locanda Moscal in Affi, where I am served the best gnocchi I have ever eaten – beautifully buttery, meltin-your-mouth delicious, before the main course of lake trout and mash. Simple, rustic – but oh so tasty.

Fuelled with food and wine, I head off to my next stop: a winery nestled amongst 100 hectares of vineyards known as Cavalchina, 20 OCEAN VIEW

where 600,000 bottles of fine worldrenowned wines are produced every year, including the white wine Custoza, which has been rated as excellent by critics all over the globe.

Among the twelve wines I try, the one that stands out most is Amadeo, a modern wine that came into being in 1994. This is the flagship wine of Cavalchina and it’s clear to see why. First of all, it is an easy wine – easy and fresh to drink, with no headiness, no hitting the back of your throat. It just slides down coolly, leaving an aromatic aftertaste that lingers pleasantly. This freshness is down to the way it was made – with grapes that have been frozen to enhance the freshness of the fruit, before being ripened in steel vats and lightly aged in barrels.

You can find out more about Cavalchina by visiting www.calvachina.com, or call +39 045 516002 Before my second Michelin-Starred

dinner of the trip, I head to my new accommodation for the night: the 4* Aqualux Spa hotel in Bardolino – a sprawling ‘eco’ hotel with a modern glass frontage and eight pools I know I won’t have time to try out. My room is airy, modern and equipped with a large balcony looking over the pools. After a quick but rather luxurious power shower, I don my glad-rags and head out to the Hotel Villa Cordevigo 5* in Cavaion Veronese.

As the car makes its way along the long driveway between lush vineyards, the setting sun glows low and bright on the horizon, casting an amber light over the 16th century Venetian villa. It is a beautiful building centred around a cultivated courtyard and painted with rich tones of yellow, red and terracotta. Upon my arrival I am shown around the luxurious hotel with its Rococo décor and premium finish – including bathrooms made entirely from marble. Next, I am privileged enough to be given a tour around the ancient Saint Martin Chapel, where I can feel the heaviness of time in the musty air. Here our guide informs us there are 3,000 relics stores in its thick stone walls, which include a rather macabre human skull.

Dinner tonight is cooked by 2* Michelin chef Antonio Genovese who had flown in from Rome that morning. He cooked up another outstanding feast consisting of eight creative courses, which again starred lake

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“The town is steeped in military history so if you’d like to find out more about the battles in this region, a daytrip here should certainly be on your itinerary” trout, this time with a red wine, beans and marrow sauce, and pasta tubes with ox tail.

After an espresso, I headed back to my hotel in Bardolino and drew the curtains on yet another fantastic, food and winefilled day.

Day Three There is sadly no time to even dip my toes in the infinity pool: I wolf down a quick breakfast, pack my bags and leave to squeeze in as much as possible before my afternoon flight back to London.

My first stop of the morning is a boat trip around Peschiera del Garda, a fortified town built on an island on the river flowing out of Lake Garda. The town is steeped in military history so if you’d like to find out more about the battles in this region, a daytrip here should certainly be on your itinerary. Another must-visit during your stay is Borghetto, the ‘ancient village of mills’ near the ford across the Mincio river.

Here you can see where hundreds of lovers have attached padlocks to the steel bridge to permanently declare their affections for one another. The streets are cobbled and inherently Italian, with potted geraniums and shuttered windows on old stone houses looking out over the river.

After a leisurely amble beneath the warm spring sun, I head onwards to my last Italian meal of the trip. This is the part I had most

been looking forward to: fresh tortellini tasting in a traditional restaurant in Valleggio Sul Mincio. Upon entering the old stone building, the first thing you see is an open fire burning in a furnace in the middle of the kitchen. Chefs clatter around it, rolling out huge strips of pasta before stuffing them with paste and twisting them into knotted tortellini shapes with lightning-quick fingers.

Three courses of tortellini await us, each offering a different filling. We start with a delicious creamy asparagus, before moving onto a robust meat filling, and finally, my favourite: pumpkin and marzipan – a very sweet, rich combination of ingredients that work together perfectly and leave me wanting to take the recipe home.

And so, after feasting on real Italian tortellini and downing the last dregs of real

Italian wine, my weekend jaunt comes to an end and, with a heavy heart and a very full stomach, I head back through the beautiful countryside to Bergamo airport and vow to go on a diet the moment my plane touches English soil.

Don’t Miss...

CIOTTOLANDO CON GUSTO REVEALS THE “GREEN” SIDE OF GARDA LAKE The event aims at eco sustainability and short distribution chain quality, promoting fish and local products for those who want to eat healthy food without giving up taste September 27th and 28th 2013 Malcesine (VR)

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ESSENTIAL RECIPES

Heart and Soul of Turkish Cuisine

Part cookbook, part travelogue, Andy Harris and photographer David Loftus meet the characters behind the intriguing food of the city - artisan bakers, traditional chefs, fishermen and street food vendors, to name a few

Mackerel Pilaki Serves 4 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 red onions (about 180g), peeled and diced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 1 carrot (about 140g), peeled and diced 3 fresh bay leaves 1 tsp dried oregano 2 tbsp fresh flat-leaf parsley, including stems, finely chopped 2 potatoes (about 240g), peeled and diced 2 tomatoes (about 170g), peeled and diced 1 lemon, thinly sliced 4 whole mackerel (about 800g), cleaned sea salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve 2 tbsp fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped Preheat the oven to 200˚C/Gas 6. Heat half the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and sauté the onions, garlic, carrot, bay leaves, oregano and parsley for 8–10 minutes until softened, stirring occasionally. Add the potatoes, tomatoes and about 200ml cold water, stir well and cook for 8–10 minutes.

Place the lemon slices on the bottom of a baking dish, lay the mackerel on top and season generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spoon the vegetable mixture around the fish and drizzle with the remaining olive oil.

Bake in the preheated oven for 20–30 minutes or until the fish is tender and the vegetables have begun to blacken a bit. Leave to cool before serving warm or even cold, sprinkled with the parsley.

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“This is one of my favourite ways of cooking mackerel, grey mullet or even sardines and you find it all over Turkey in both homes and restaurants”

ESSENTIAL RECIPES

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Peynirli pide ve Ispanaklı pide Cheese pide, and spinach and cheese pide Makes 4 2 tsp dry yeast 1 tsp sugar 200ml warm water 300g plain flour ½ tbsp salt extra virgin olive oil polenta, for dusting Egg wash 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Pide joints abound in Istanbul. At the best ones, there’s usually a queue for this filling flatbread snack – boatshaped or round Turkish ‘pizzas’ with cheese, spinach, spicy sucuk sausages, egg and pepper fillings. During Ramazan, plain pide is also eaten sprinkled with çörek otu (nigella or black cumin seeds)

Cheese filling (for 2 pide) 300g Turkish-style kaşar peyniri hard cheese, Greek kasseri, or Cheddar, grated Spinach and cheese filling (for 2 pide) 200g spinach, boiled and chopped 100g Turkish-style kaşar peyniri hard cheese, Greek kasseri, or Cheddar, grated Put the yeast, sugar and warm water in a small bowl, stir well and leave for 15 minutes or until it becomes frothy. Sift the flour and salt in a separate, large bowl and mix. Make a well in the centre and pour the yeast solution into the well. Mix well with your hands until you get a dough-like consistency, adding a little more water if necessary. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead it for about 10 minutes, sprinkling with extra flour if the dough is too sticky. Grease the inside of a large bowl with a little olive oil and put the ball of dough in it. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp cloth and leave the dough to rise for about 1 hour or until it has doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 240˚C/Gas 9 (or get a wood-fired oven going!)

For the egg wash, combine the beaten egg and olive oil in a small bowl.

To start making the pide, turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface and punch it down gently to release the air. Knead it into a cylinder shape and divide it into 4 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and press it down flatly with your hand. Using a rolling pin, roll each disc out into a flatbread about 40cm long and 15cm wide (or to a size that will fit your oven), and as thin as you possibly can, turning the dough as you roll and pulling it with your hands. Pinch the dough along the sides and end to make an oval boat shape.

Add either just the cheese filling or the spinach and cheese filling into the pide, making sure that there’s enough filling to cover the insides of each pide.

Brush the dough edges of the pide with the egg wash and drizzle with a little extra olive oil.

Transfer carefully onto a metal baking tray dusted with polenta and into the preheated oven (or onto a long-handled thin wooden board dusted with polenta and into a wood-fired oven). Bake for 10–15 minutes or until the pide is crispy and golden brown and the cheese toppings have melted. Repeat the process with the remaining pide if they don’t all fit in the oven.

Cut with a sharp knife just before serving and eat whilst still piping hot.

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OPPOSITE: Peynirli pide ve Ispanaklı pide Cheese pide, and spinach and cheese pide

Üsüm peltesi Grape must pudding This is often made with grape must after harvest but it is easy to make your own, year round, with shop-bought red grape juice. Use a large jelly mould if you prefer to make one large pudding.

Serves 10 1 litre red grape juice 2 tbsp granulated sugar juice of ½ lemon 25g cornflour To serve bunches of small grapes Equipment 10 x 100-ml jelly/dariole moulds or ramekins, lightly oiled Put 900ml of the grape juice, the sugar and lemon juice in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 2–3 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the cornflour in another bowl and whisk in the remaining grape juice until evenly combined. Slowly add this to the grape mixture in the pan, whisking continuously for about 8–10 minutes until the mixture begins to thicken and turns translucent. Divide the grape mixture evenly between the moulds and place on a tray. Refrigerate until set, preferably overnight or for about 5–6 hours.

To serve, dip the bottom of each mould briefly into a bowl of hot water. Quickly tip the mould upside down onto a plate and hold the plate tightly against the mould, shaking the mould gently until the pudding slides out onto the plate. Repeat with the remaining puddings.

EAT ISTANBUL by ANDY HARRIS, published by Quadrille (£20) Photos ©DAVID LOFTUS

Serve the puddings garnished with bunches of small grapes.

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www.garmin.co.uk

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children’s walks · walks from rails · ramblers walks · ex4 1 0 2 R E B O T C O 7 ds 24 TO 2 i p on alk ploration walks · history walks · nature walks · foodie W sor o t f t h e Is l e o f W i g h walks · nordic walking · dawn chorus walks · children’s walks · walks from rails · speed dating walk · ramblers walks · exploration walks · history walks · nature walks

The UK’s biggest walking festival! www.isleofwightwalkingfestival.co.uk facebook.com/isleofwightwalkingfestival @IWWalkingFest

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Beneath the Waves

Each year, over one million divers complete their PADI scuba diving course. But just what is it that entices so many to take the plunge?

D

ive beneath the waves and you’ll reveal the ocean’s secret: a world filled with flora and fauna that you’ll never experience if your feet stay on terra firma. Diverse panoramas filled with sponges, fan corals and jewel-like anemones are backdrops to thousands of species of marine life, from tiny shrimps and colourful fish to sea turtles, manta rays and even whale sharks, the gentle giants of the ocean. The tranquillity and weightlessness found below the surface is unlike any other feeling you’ll encounter.

From turquoise tropics back to the rugged charms of UK coasts, underwater destinations are waiting to be explored across every continent. With a scuba diving certification packed in your bag, a trip to even the most familiar locale will be

transformed into a new and unforgettable experience.

Becoming a scuba diver isn’t as daunting or as difficult as it may appear, and the PADI Open Water Diver course is structured to ensure safe, progressive learning at your own pace. There’s also the option to complete a PADI Discover Scuba Diving experience, where you’ll be able to see what it feels like to breathe underwater as part of a ‘taster’ session before committing to a full course.

Before jumping into the water for the first time, you’ll first complete five theory lessons. Although you can review these in the classroom at your dive school, many students prefer to study at home with PADI eLearning, which offers virtual lessons anywhere, anytime. By completing your

theory before you travel, you’ll free up precious holiday time to get the most out of your practical sessions.

Practical tuition begins in confined water (i.e. a swimming pool), before extending your newly acquired skill into open water (lakes, quarries or the sea). You’ll always be under the careful supervision of a qualified PADI Professional when undertaking inwater lessons.

PADI - the world’s largest recreational diver organisation – has more than 6,200 Dive Centres and Resorts across the globe, and once you’ve completed your course, your certification card will be recognised and accepted anywhere else you decide to travel.

To find out more about learning to scuba dive with PADI, or to locate a PADI Dive OCEAN VIEW 29

School near you, visit www.padi.com or download the PADI mobile app.

Don’t miss…

Red Sea The Red Sea is one of the most popular dive spots in the world – and once you jump into the year-round warm waters, you’ll see why, with magnificent displays of corals and reef fish as well as turtles, manta rays, dolphins and more. The crystal clear sea stretches from the relaxed resorts of Dahab (home to the Red Sea’s Blue Hole) to the Saharan resorts of Marsa Alam near Sudan. In between, traditional Hurghada boasts numerous wrecks whilst Sharm-el-sheikh offers access to the pristine reefs at Ras Mohammed national park and the legendary SS Thistlegorm shipwreck, as well as thriving nightlife for après-dive fun.

Australia With over 3,000 individual archipelago, islands and coral cays, the Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest reef and the only living thing that can be seen from space. It’s said to boast around 600 types of coral, 1625 species of fish, 133 sharks and rays and over 30 species of whales and dolphins. With such a diverse eco-system, you’d be hard pressed not to add this to your diving bucket list. Cairns and Port Douglas are the most accessible ports for the Agincourt Ribbons Reefs which sit on the edge of Australia’s Continental Shelf and SS Yongala which is one of the best wreck dives in the world. Visit June to September for the chance to see migrating Humpback Whales.

South Africa In addition to exhilarating surf launches and Great White Shark action around Cape Town, South Africa plays host to one of the ocean’s greatest migrations between May and July – the Sardine Run. Divers travel from all over the world to witness this incredible event, where millions of sardines 30 OCEAN VIEW

form a supersized shoal over 4 miles long, 1 mile wide and nearly 40 meters deep – a phenomenon that can be seen by satellite. Travelling north, they attract a frenzy of predators in thousands - including dolphins, sea birds, whales and sharks. Not for the faint hearted but an unforgettable dive with close-up action of some seriously big creatures.

Mexico The Yucatan Peninsula is popular both above and below water and is an excellent all-round diving destination. Cozumel Reefs National Marine Park covers 29,000 acres and protects over 500 species of fish including the endemic toadfish, and with fast-paced currents, makes a popular location for drift diving. For something more adventurous, the Cenotes are truly special to behold; an intricate network of caves, tunnels and caverns, decorated with a stunning display of stalagmites and stalactites formed over millions of years. Many caverns won’t need specialist training to discover their underwater forests, where rays of light and twisted branches echo a mystical fairyland.

UK and Ireland UK and Ireland’s waters are colder and variable but, with a diverse eco-system and shipwrecks dotted from coast to coast, offer a unique view into marine life and history such as Scotland’s Scapa Flow WWI fleet.

Many wrecks are accessible by shore or boat, and attract shoals of fish, sea stars, conger eels, lobsters and scorpion fish.

The Farne Islands are must for playful grey seals, whilst the warmer water of Southwest England attracts basking sharks and seahorses. Around Wales and Ireland you’ll find seals and dolphins as well as one of the largest gannet populations in the world. You won’t need to travel far either with 15,000 miles of coastline on your doorstep, scuba diving is the best way to rediscover your favourite weekend destination. www.padi.com

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Mass

Top Reasons to Visit Massachusetts If we asked you to name an American state, Massachusetts would probably not be the first to spring to mind. However, as we found out, it has a little of the best of everything in the USA! 1. Minimal travelling time

With a flying time of less than 7 hours from London Heathrow, Massachusetts is relatively accessible from UK airports.

It also has cities and attractions within easy driving distance from the airport so it is perfect for a fly-drive holiday.

Within two weeks a visitor can see a lot of Massachusetts but will still want to return to experience more.

2. Beautiful scenery and buzzing cities

Massachusetts offers exquisite scenery, with the natural beauty of the Atlantic coastline and resort islands to the hills and lakes of the Berkshires. There is also the cultural sophistication of Boston, a mustsee city with a European style café scene, world class museums, landmarks that tell America’s history and some of the best restaurants in the USA. The unspoiled beaches of Cape Cod, the islands Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket, and the North Shore and the South Shore 32 OCEAN VIEW

invite summer visitors to experience golden sands, classic lighthouses, quaint villages, fishing and surfing and the freshest seafood.

3. Secret hideaways

Off the beaten track and stretching for a glorious 60 miles lie the Berkshire Hills in Western Massachusetts, offering some of New England’s finest museums,culture, festivals and picturesque villages.

4. Fun festivals

The Berkshires: There are summer festivals from June through August, celebrateing music, dance and theatre. The Boston Symphony Orchestra, Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival, Shakespeare & Company and the Williamstown Theatre Festival are just some of the many events on offer.

Boston: Harborfest July 2–6 and Fourth of July In the run-up to Independence Day, Boston’s harbour front hosts concerts, street

performers, Chowderfest and children’s events. On July 4th, the Declaration of Independence is proclaimed from the balcony of the Old State House and evening brings the free Boston Pops concert by the Charles River – and fireworks

Springfield: The Big E Autumn brings traditional agricultural fairs large and small. The biggest in the Northeast is The Big E, a jamboree celebrating farming and rural life.

Parades and livestock, music and rides are all part of the fun.

Cape Cod & The Islands: Greater Provincetown Schooner Regatta Sept 1–4.

North of Boston: Gloucester Waterfront Festival August 16–17 and the Lowell Folk Festival July 23–27. www.massvacation.com

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Plan your holiday today at massholiday.co.uk or call 0208 464 8483

OCEAN VIEW 33 @VisitMA_UK

Limitless Sky Life Lessons from the Himalayas

A book by David Charles Manners “Stunning…enthralling…really remarkable and compelling, full of wisdom, humour and beauty,” – Joanna Lumley During a trip to the Himalayas, David Manners meets a Nepalese shaman who changes his life by teaching him a practical and ancient philosophy – a life-affirming path that will enable him to live fully and joyfully with purpose, and to acquire selfknowledge without self-interest. By sharing his incredible story and insights, David hopes that we, too, may benefit from his jankri’s lessons.

(Extract) IX Full knowledge of the Tradition is best suited to a calm student who is engaged in meditation and unsullied by malice.

Mountain saying ‘Why am I here with you?’

Kushal Magar was gathering bowls of dried herbs, blackened canisters of pungent oil, crimson sidur pigment and a length of cotton cloth.

‘I wasn’t looking for any of this,’ I 34 OCEAN VIEW

insisted. ‘I hadn’t even heard of your mountain Tradition until meeting you today.’

Kushal Magar dropped a carefully considered assortment of seeds and leaves into an old stone mortar.

‘Then maybe you are here,’ he stated quietly, ‘because you are ready.’

‘Ready for what?’ I asked, conscious of the shallow simplicity of my questions.

He tipped dark oil into the mortar and started grinding.

‘In these hills, the Tradition’s wisdom has long been passed directly from teacher to student – but only as that student shows sufficient maturity to understand each stage of their education. In contrast, I believe your culture holds that all knowledge should be available to everyone at all times.’

I nodded. ‘Well, for us, the acquisition of knowledge is given only according to the capacity of the student to assume the responsibilities it brings. The practices and teachings of the Tradition could otherwise be misinterpreted and misused by the unwise and undiscerning. A teacher therefore looks for very particular qualities in every prospective student.’

I nodded to show my eagerness to hear them, in the hope that I too might one day prove myself suitable to some degree.

‘To start with, a healthy body-mind.’

‘Body-mind?’ I interrupted, assuming there had been a mistranslation.

‘What your science differentiates as a “body” separate from a brain-based “mind”, we understand as an integral, indivisible whole. In our Nepali, chaitanya means “consciousness” and chola means “body”.

Together, chaitanyachola means the “dynamic human being”, the “living, active consciousness” – the body-mind. Do you see?’

I nodded, eager for him to continue with his list of required qualities.

‘Next, a prospective student should demonstrate an honest and sincere disposition, free from pride and with honourable intentions. A sympathetic and open heart that shows invariable compassion to all living things. A capacity for happiness, enjoyment and sensual pleasure, yet with the inclination to master desires and passions.’

I was about to comment, when, to my dismay, I realised he had not yet finished.

‘A prospective student should also exhibit disinterest in material wealth and social hierarchies. A willingness to sacrifice self-interest in the discharge of duties to parents, family and teachers. A readiness to explore possibilities beyond the obvious or ordinary. And, ultimately, a genuine desire

for liberation from self-limitation, through the fulfilment of the four Aims of Life.’

‘The four Aims of Life?’ I asked, so daunted by his list of requirements that I only recalled the last.

‘These we shall come to. But for now, understand that the knowledge embodied in our Tradition is not given indiscriminately.’

‘So can you see even one of those qualities in me?’ I laughed nervously.

Kushal Magar looked up from his work.

‘You have the potential. And that is all that is required.’

‘But how can you be so sure when we only met today?’

‘You do not trust me?’ he asked, turning to pour a bright gleam of boiling water over the contents of his mortar.

‘How can I?’ I replied, breathing in a sudden scent of pungent vegetation. ‘I don’t know you.’

‘Do you assume dishonesty and treachery in everyone you meet, until they prove otherwise?’ he challenged.

‘Are these therefore qualities you recognise in yourself for you to expect them so readily of others?’

I did not know how to respond. Was this a test? Some game of provocation? Or had he seen in me a truth I had never once admitted? Was this then, perhaps, what jhankris did?

As I found myself again doubting how well I really knew myself or my motivation, Kushal Magar opened a tarnished metal canister from which he took a pinch of some unseen substance. He mumbled indecipherable words, touched his heart, the earth, then his eyes, and added the mysterious ingredient to his brew. He poked it with a finger and watched it steep.

‘Of course, a prospective student would also normally have spent between one and four years living with their teacher prior to initiation, that they might demonstrate their suitability through daily interaction.

However, my instincts are keen and your

time is short – some man behind a desk has decreed no foreigner may remain longer than fourteen days in our hills – so we must find another way.’

I was grateful for, if somewhat surprised at, the generosity of his concession on my behalf.

‘Wise teachers take great care that a student also has the quality of viveka,’ he added to an already daunting list, ‘the ability to distinguish the difference between truth and untruth, reality from self-delusion. In contrast, those who are dissolute or idle at heart, who lack integrity, who are inclined towards the useless and the trivial, or who

remembering and reconfiguring facts, regurgitating received opinions in order to earn that all-important coloured star or piece of embossed paper. I was also aware that the predominant purpose of all formal learning in my aggressively commercial and materialistic culture was ultimately to increase one’s income. However, I was beginning to realise that in these hills this was not considered to be learning at all, but merely the acquisition of socially sanctioned information.

And yet the jhankri was not asking me to become a student in the ordinary sense, but rather an apprentice. He was inviting me to become an initiate into a tradition that seemed to promise a progressive transformation of perception, even of myself and the world through which I moved.

I turned to Samuel, as though he might now intervene to prevent further interaction with this man; as though he might insist this was all mountain madness and hurry me back to the safety of his mother’s kitchen, her sinki soup and gossip. Instead, he merely tipped his head and smiled, as though in cheerful expectation.

I looked again to the crystalline peak of Kanchenjunga, then back to Kushal Magar – and found myself nodding with unpredicted confidence.

‘Yes,’ I replied and instinctively touched my heart. ‘I am willing.’

“I was beginning to realise that in these hills this was not considered to be learning at all, but merely the acquisition of socially sanctioned information” are obsessively anxious must wait to be accepted by a teacher of the Tradition. For these, the knowledge to be imparted would prove neither useful nor appropriate.’

‘But I can be idle!’ I confessed. ‘I can be as frivolous and neurotic as any other!’

‘It is the potential for the qualities of the ideal student – a shishya, as we call them – that is sought. After all, if you had no conflicts with yourself, do you think you would have found your way to me?’

But had I? Surely it was he who had, by some means that yet remained wholly inexplicable, found me?

Kushal Magar took up a grass brush and began to sweep the floor on which we sat.

‘Of course, in essence, a suitable student must sacrifice his self-interest in order truly to learn,’ he stated, through a billow of dust.

‘So are you willing to be a shishya?’

I considered that I had been raised to regard all learning as a matter of

Buy Limitless Sky for £13.99 online from www.randomhouse.co.uk Make sure you pick up the July edition of Ocean View to read an exclusive interview with David Manners.

OCEAN VIEW 35

36 OCEAN VIEW

Five Miles From Paradise Find your own paradise on the Isle of Wight

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C

an a small island five miles from the Hampshire coast really be described as a ‘paradise’? True, the Isle of Wight doesn’t exactly evoke images of palm-fringed beaches or crystal clear lagoons – there are no tropical rainforests, indigenous tribes or exotic birds here, and you’re more likely to stumble upon a cosy country pub than a poolside cocktail bar. But as most keen travellers know, ‘paradise’ isn’t always the obvious brochure image. It can be found in the most unexpected of places… even those right on our doorstep.

A Paradise for Walkers Here at Ocean View, nothing gets us more excited than an English county bordered on all sides by sea. With its great stretches of golden sand, sapphire seas and dramatic meadow-topped cliffs, there’s no shortage of breathtaking ocean views on the Isle of Wight. In fact, over half of its 150 square km of fertile land has been designated an official ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’, where 38 OCEAN VIEW

endangered animals such as red squirrels, skylarks and small pearl-bordered fritillary butterflies all thrive in a range of habitats – meaning a simple countryside ramble can quickly become a Great British safari.

As well as hosting an abundance of wildlife, the Isle of Wight is also home to some incredible geological features – including the famous Needles at Alum Bay. These iconic chalk stacks jut out from the surface of the ocean like ice burgs, creating a highly unusual view that attracts millions of visitors from all over the world. The island is also renowned for its density of dinosaur fossils and has been dubbed the ‘Dinosaur Capital’ of Great Britain. Head down to Compton Bay or Yaverland for the best chance of stumbling across your own ancient relic.

500 miles of footpaths snake between villages, cliff tops and historic downland all over the island, giving keen walkers access to nooks and crannies that might otherwise be difficult to access. Most of the paths are

suitable for novices, with gentle slopes and regular watering holes. After a long day hiking, what better way to reward yourself than with a cold beverage in a country pub garden? There are plenty of charming pubs all of the Isle of Wight, offering classic log fires, suntrap beer gardens and great food menus, often offering lunch, afternoon tea and dinner.

A Paradise for Culture Junkies The Isle of Wight has over 30 museums to keep culture junkies satisfied. From the Shipwreck and Maritime Museum at Arreton, to the Lilliput Doll and Antique Museum in Brading, there truly is something to interest every curious mind out there.

At Alum Bay, you can watch traditional Isle of Wight glass being made by hand, and even buy yourself a beautifully made souvenir to take home. www.alumbayglass.co.uk If you prefer your glass half full, or fully

full, then head to Adgestone Vineyard for a tour of the winery cellars. First planted in 1968, the vineyard is one of the oldest in Britain, and its produce has even been enjoyed by Her Majesty The Queen. www.english-wine.co.uk For a really cultural experience, get on the Ale Train at the Isle of Wight Steam Railway at Havenstreet. On Saturday 19 July you can enjoy a balmy summer evening of trains and fine ale as you travel from Havenstreet to Wootton for an hour, with a range of beers on tap plus a heart meal of bangers and mash along the way. www.iwsteamrailway.co.uk A Paradise for Music Fans Just like the countryside, the towns and villages on the Isle of Wight pulse with life. All year round the island hosts a wide variety of cultural, music and food festivals, including the famous Isle of Wight Festival, Bestival and Folkstation, which all attract international

attention and draw in thousands of music lovers from all over the world, putting this tiny isle well and truly on the world’s music map.

Bestival runs from 4-7 September 2014.

Find out more at www.bestival.net Rhythmtree runs from 18-20 July 2014.

Find out more at www.rhythmtree.info Newport Jazz Weekend runs from 1820 July 2014. Find out more at www.newportjazzweekend.co.uk The Isle of Wight is an unedited, unadulterated, untouched paradise.

It’s a paradise for walkers, nature lovers, music fans, history buffs and sun worshipers. And the best thing about it? It’s just a few miles away from the coast of England, so you don’t need to worry about going to the airport, spending extortionate amounts of money, or booking too much time off.

In a word: perfect!

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A Kick of Chilli in Brighton Ocean View’s Lottie Doweswell reviews My Hotel and The Chilli Pickle in trendy Brighton

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y hotel, with its fabulous location, intriguing name and ideal city centre location, will wow you from the start. First and foremost, it offers practicality in the form of pre-booked private parking beneath the hotel, thankfully allowing me to avoid driving in circles around Brighton in fruitless search for a space.

The aesthetics are striking, with the fabulous front desk area basking in coloured lights and porthole style windows giving the appearance of a luxury cruise – plus the chic cocktail bar (always a delight to see), and what proved to be the most delicious restaurant in Brighton: The Chilli Pickle.

The hotel receptionists were very friendly, explaining the hotel’s details and showing us to our room, where the décor was basic but trendy, oozing Brighton. The room was 40 OCEAN VIEW

well-lit with a feature light that changed colour slowly on the stark white wall, giving a rather romantic ambience. The chaise set into the window was a fantastic idea, allowing guests to sit and watch the world go by – and perhaps spy on the somewhat unusual characters that frequent the Brighton Lanes.

The extensive mini bar had everything from the standard teas and coffees, to a long list of tipples such as Kir Royals and chocolate liquors. There was something for everyone including the kids, with an assortment of sweets and chocolates also on offer. Although basic, the room offers all the amenities you need from a city centre hotel.

The appeal is in its location, in the middle of all the action and ready to take you to new places to try new things in this diverse and interesting city.

Before dinner at the hotel’s partnered restaurant the Chilli Pickle, we gave the cocktail bar a quick try, where dim lights gave the place a moody ambience, and we sipped a rusty nail and strawberry daiquiri while sophisticated types mingled around us. After one Mojito too many, we left our perches at the bar and prepared to be spoilt with lavish Indian cuisine.

A life-size plastic cow at the entrance of the restaurant offered a perfect photo op for a quick selfie! Once seated in the colourful interior, we were given menus with an array of fabulous sounding dishes all very different to the usual Indian menus you would perhaps be used to.

With our senses buzzing, we opted for the Mini Puris filled with chickpea salad and served with fresh herb and green tomato chutney. These little delights burst on the

tongue and were definitely worth coming in for. I also ordered the Paneer Shotti Boti, an Indian cheese and pepper dish with a mint and garlic sauce –something I had not tried before but that I hope to be able to recreate at home. We then opted for the aubergine stew, which was fried aubergine pieces with a tamarind and peanut gravy. WOW – what a triumph! This simple dish stole the day.

We were so full we couldn’t fit pudding in so, not willing to miss out of the delicious sounding menu, we asked to take away a selection of traditional Indian sweets to enjoy in the hotel room later. And boy were we impressed with the delicate and exotic flavours of rose water, spices and fruits – so unlike anything we’d had before, but something we’ll no doubt be trying again soon!

Contact My Hotel at www.myhotels.com/my-hotel-brighton Contact The Chilli Pickle at www.thechillipickle.com OCEAN VIEW 41

Columbia Beach Resort in Cyprus Nominated for Four World Travel Awards 2014 Columbia Beach Resort, the luxury five star hotel in Pissouri Bay Cyprus, has been nominated by this year’s World Travel Awards (WTA), for 4 awards; Europe’s Leading All Suite Hotel, Mediterranean’s Leading Spa Resort, Cyprus’ Leading Resort, Cyprus’ Leading Spa Resort Considered by many to be the Oscars of the travel industry, WTA celebrates those brands that are at the forefront of industry excellence.

One of only two hotels in the panoramic Pissouri Bay on the south west coast of Cyprus, the Columbia Beach Resort and its sister hotel Columbia Beachotel, enjoy an unspoiled location on a 2km Blue Flag beach.

Distinctive architecture, inspired by typical Cypriot buildings, featuring low rise buildings in local stone, ensures that the Columbia Beach Resort blends in with the stunning landscape. Sloping roofs furnished with reclaimed terracotta tiles and shutters on the windows and abundance of natural wood give the hotel a discreetly aged and traditional look, created so that old and new blend together. An all-suite property, the accommodation is arranged in ‘villas’ clustered around the 80m lagoon style pool 42 OCEAN VIEW

and the property features a taverna, ouzeri and chapel arranged to resemble a Cypriot village square.

Renowned for its cuisine, offering a first class version of the Cyprus meze and Italian Gourmet at its best, the resort also features the highly-regarded Hébe Spa located at the heart of the property.

A well-equipped gym and an aerobics hall where guests who choose an active break can take part in free fitness, yoga and relaxation classes. On site there are tennis and squash courts and first class water-sports tuition in the Bay where the warm clear waters provide ideal conditions to learn wind-surfing and Hobie Cat sailing.

Regular transport takes golf enthusiasts to four selected championship courses in the vicinity. Cyprus is definitely a golf destination of merit with courses at this level, including the newly Nick Faldodesigned Elea course.

www.columbiaresort.com

COL A

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COL Ad 2014 210x242.indd 1

02/05/14 10:34

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Aruba: One Happy Island Feel your stresses fade away on a health and wellbeing break in Aruba‌

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Things to know about Aruba • Aruba is a constituent country of the Netherlands • The island is 19 miles long and 6 wide • The population is approximately 101,000 • The average year-round temperature is 27ºC, with northeast winds giving a pleasant breeze • Aruba is outside of the Caribbean hurricane zone • The official language is Dutch but the native language is Papiamento.

• Most Arubans also speak good English and Spanish • US dollars can be used as currency • Aloe plants were first introduced to Aruba from Africa in 1840 – now the island is famous for its pure, high quality aloe vera products.

46 OCEAN VIEW

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ritish people spend an average of nine hours a day staring at their laptop, smartphone, tablet and television screens – that’s 30 years of their lives wiled away sitting stock-still indoors.

Now that we live in the digital age where it’s possible to shop, play, learn, work and even find love without ever leaving our desks, it’s more important than ever to take a break from life to recuperate and disconnect from the persistent buzz of technology. Just north of the Venezuelan coast near South America, encircled by turquoise shallows and bordered on one side by white sand beaches, is a place where you can do just that: The Happy Island or, as you probably know it – Aruba.

The Aruban people are well known for their friendly, happy personalities and willing hospitality towards visitors. Yearround sunshine tempered by a pleasant cooling breeze must contribute to a few smiles, and the refreshingly warm, clear waters surrounding the island provide a perfect retreat to cool down, swim, snorkel, scuba dive and – for those with

an adventurous spirit, enjoy a spot of windsurfing or kite surfing.

Amongst happy people in a beautiful setting, you’re sure to forget your stresses of life back home. Here, none of that matters. Aruba is a place to live in the moment: to feel the warm sun on your skin, the powdered sand between your toes, and the chilled side of a cocktail glass in your hand…

Recuperate on the Beach

Forget complicated breathing exercises and unlikely yoga poses for now. Sometimes the best remedy for stress is the simplest, like a beautiful beach and a fruity cocktail.

Luckily, Aruba isn’t short on either. If you’re looking for that heady mix of sun and rum, head to the west coast of the island, where you’ll find a vast choice of pristine beaches with cocktail bars aplenty.

Come to Eagle Beach, just a 10-minute drive away from Aruba’s capital Oranjestad.

Here you’ll witness incredible sunsets in tones of deep Caribbean pinks and ambers.

Many of the cocktails here come in similar

shades, and you can sip them beneath thatched palapa umbrellas as the sun goes down.

Try the famous Aruba Ariba, a two-tone cocktail made with vodka, rum, ceocoei, crème de banana, orange juice, cranberry juice and pineapple juice, with a splash of grenadine.

Head into the Unknown

Get back in touch with your own thoughts by taking a hike, horse ride, or 4X4 drive to a deserted stretch of the Aruban coastline, where the wild sea batters the cliffs, sending sea spray flying into the air. Here, you will find Cura di Totuga, a tranquil pool carved into the rock where visitors can jump in and swim in the crystalline waters.

Let Aruba Take Care of You

There are plenty of places all over Aruba that could be described as a mini paradise.

There’s nothing like immersing yourself in the lap of luxury to rejuvenate your senses and get you ready to face the big wide world once more.

Some of Aruba’s most luxurious accommodation includes…

The Ritz-Carlton Hotel The five-star Ritz-Carlton offers unprecedented luxury just a few feet from the tranquil Palm Beach. Indulge your risktaking side at the 24-hour casino, get your blood pumping in the state of the art gym, or head outside into the glorious sunshine and

take part one of the many beach activities on offer, including catamaran sailing, beach tennis and kayaking.

As the sun begins to set, take your menu from Les Crustaces onto the beach and dine on outstanding food with the Caribbean sea as your backdrop. Now are you starting to see why they call this the Happy Island? www.ritzcarlton.com Casa del Viento If you’re travelling to Aruba with a group, it can be a good idea to rent a villa – that way you can share the cost, and enjoy the luxury of privacy. Casa del Viento is located in the desirable neighbourhood of Malmok, just along the road from the Tierra del Sol golf course and the California Light House. Just minutes from the doorstep is Arashi beach, which offers some of the best snorkeling spots on the island. With a private garden, beds for 10 people, a refreshing pool and open plan modern living areas, there’s plenty of space to relax, socialise and enjoy this beautiful location with friends and family. www.casadelviento.com OCEAN VIEW 47

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New customers only. Registered office: Griffin House, 40 Lever Street, Manchester, M60 6ES.

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The Born Explorer Q&A with Phil Asker, the founder of luxury tour company Captain’s Choice

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aptain’s Choice offers all-inclusive private tours to remote and exotic destinations across the world, giving discerning travellers the chance to visit fascinating places in luxurious surroundings.

The company offers tours by private train, cruise ship and private jet, always offering the most luxurious accommodation, facilities and experiences along the way.

The company’s founder Phil Asker handpicks every detail of each tour to ensure guests see the very best each destination has to offer. He spends four months a year travelling around the world, mapping out routes and discovering extraordinary places and activities for future tours. While he may be an entrepreneur, having forged a highly unique and successful international business, Phil is first and foremost a pioneer.

He boldly goes where no tour operator has gone before, from the traditional culture of Bhutan on the Exotic India tour, to the largely unseen territory of North Korea on the Heart of Japan tour. Here, we find out how and when Phil’s love for travel first sparked, and when he first decided to take the plunge and charter a jet plane…

How old were you when you had your first taste of travel? Have you always felt an urge to discover new places?

I started travelling around my home city of Melbourne as an 8 year old and by the time I was 9 had covered every suburban train, 50 OCEAN VIEW

tram and public bus route, much of it on my own. I have always had a passion for trains, ships and planes. As a 12 year old I obtained a pass to visit every passenger ship that called in Port Melbourne, and by 14 convinced my parents to take me to New Zealand on the maiden voyage of the original Oriana.

What is your favourite form of transport and why?

It is a toss up between a private jet and a private train. Captain’s Choice has been operating private jets around the world since 1994 and I have had some incredible journeys as Tour Manager on these flights. Likewise, our private trains across the Silk Road through Africa and around India are a stunning way to see unique destinations.

How did you first come up with the idea to launch private jet tours?

20 years ago, after many years of operating tours, I felt there was a lack of group tours aimed at the top end of the market. After many months we convinced Qantas to charter us a Boeing 767 for a 16 day trip around Asia and Africa. This led to our now vastly expanded range of private jet tours.

How many countries have you visited so far?

I think it is now 172.

How do you find travelling solo?

I am a very inquisitive solo traveller. I find nothing better than going for a jog or walk early in the morning in a new destination and watching it come to life. I always seek out interesting restaurants and have no problem dining alone. About 40% of our travellers on our private jet and private train tours are solo travellers and we do our utmost to make them feel welcome.

Have you ever travelled to a place and really not liked it? If so, where?

Lagos, Nigeria. From the moment of stepping off the plane until I stepped back on the plane, I had people seeking bribes and hassling me for money in quite a threatening way. I do not plan to return.

When you travel do you feel an inclination to document the things you see, either in writing or in photography or is experiencing them enough for you?

I used to be a keen photographer, but now prefer to look at the world with my own eyes instead of looking through a viewfinder.

I record details of all my travels and can go back to tell you where I was 35 years ago, etc.

I am sure that you have seen some incredible sights in your life. Can you pin point the most awe inspiring moment you have experienced on a jet tour?

LUXURY TOURS

A hard question to answer! Circling Easter Island, viewing numerous Moai statues, seeing the quarry where they were made and landing at the world’s most remote airport (5.5 hours from anywhere) is a great experience.

Do you ever get exhausted with flying everywhere and just want to go home for a nice cup of tea?

Sometimes I do get exhausted, but I am always excited to see the next destination and experience another culture.

What would you say to someone thinking of going on a Captain’s Choice tour, but is not sure if it is worth the cost?

While our tours are not inexpensive, we do offer outstanding value for money. One of our guests wrote to us recently and said: “My wife saw your advertisement and called for the brochure. She showed it to me and I said no way – we are not group tour people. I then saw the price – no xyz way! Anyway, she won, we went and we just had the best 3 weeks of our lives and we don’t know how you do it for the money.”

Can you recommend a tour on the lower end of your price range?

Surprisingly our “the heart of Ancient Japan” tour is one of the more economical in our portfolio. 16 stunning days travelling mainly by Japan’s fabulous trains, while your luggage moves from hotel room to hotel room by truck, is a bargain at £11,550 in a notoriously expensive country. We time the tour for March to include Cherry Blossom time in Japan and always have great comments from our guests.

To find out more about Captain’s Choice tours, including prices, destinations and dates, please visit www.captainschoiceco.uk or call 0845 603 5764.

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Intimate Cruising in Classic Surroundings

Take a Portuscale Cruise and immerse yourself in beauty, culture and history

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ith its beautiful fleet of four classic ships, Portuscale Cruises offers refined worldwide travel in uniquely intimate surroundings. Unlike giant super-liners, these elegant vessels offer an experience akin to a private yacht cruise, with personal service, pristine vintage surroundings and just a few hundred fellow passengers with which to share your journey with.

MV Funchal Onboard the iconic MV Funchal, which joined Portuscale Cruises’ fleet in 2013, one gets the sense of being onboard a large luxury yacht. The ship, which started life in the ‘60s as a steam liner, has since undergone a full renovation to restore her to the elegance she has always been known for. The designers have managed to retain traditional touches with polished timber, rich fabrics and modernist furnishings that hark back to the golden age of liners. The MV Funchal even served as the Portuguese Presidential Yacht in a former life, which has helped her become a significant and muchloved vessel with a strong loyal following.

Now, this beautiful ship is taking passengers on incredible adventures across seas to fascinating destinations, including the island paradise of the Maldives, the 52 OCEAN VIEW

metropolitan lights of Singapore and the Ancient sites of Egypt.

Onboard, you can relax poolside in a lounger served by polite, highly trained staff to keep those chilled beverages flowing. If you’re feeling active, there is even an on-board gym where you can work up a sweat before relaxing at the Wellness and Beauty Centre for a massage or beauty treatment – or both!

Indulge yourself at breakfast, lunch and dinner with fine cuisine cooked up by the ship’s Executive Chef, perfectly paired with an extensive cellar of excellent Portuguese wines. Mingle, socialise, or let the babble of conversation and laughter wash over you as the ship heads on towards some of the world’s most incredible destinations.

2015 Destinations New Year Cruise – Welcome 2015 in with champagne on the deck and fireworks as you cruise around Portugal, From 28th December to 2nd January | 6 Days/5 Nights, South to Singapore – Indulge your adventurous spirit with a cruise from Barcelona, exploring Northern Africa, Indonesia and the Far East.

From 4th January to 01st February | 2 8 days/27 nights.

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South to Australia From 4th January to 17th February | 45 Days/44 Nights.

Extend your Singapore cruise by continuing on to Indonesia, the Antipodes and finally to the baking shores of Australia.

St. Petersburg & The Baltic From 5th May to 17th or 18th May | 14 days/13 nights or 13 Days/12 Nights.

Discover the richness and intrigue of some of Europe’s greatest cities great European cities by cruising the centuries-old trade routes of medieval merchants, including a journey along the historic Kiel Canal. You will pass miles of spectacular coastline with surprises waiting around every corner.

The Celtic Connection From 17th May/18th May to 25th/26th May | 10 Days/9 Nights.

Embark on a voyage of literature, 54 OCEAN VIEW

mythology, poetry and song on this Celtic cruise from the beautiful Cornish fishing village of Falmouth, around Ireland and Scotland, ending in the bustling Scrabster Harbour.

Norwegian Fjords From 25th/26th or 27th May to 4th June | 11/10 or 9 Days / 10/9 or 8 Nights Coast past dramatic fjord scenery, rolling green hills and quaint villages on this Norway cruise to the colourful harbour front of Bergen.

The Most Beautiful Fjords of Norway From 4th to 12th June | 9 Days/8 Nights.

Sail across the North Sea from Hull to Gothenburg, Sweden. From culture-rich Gothenburg , head northwards to some of the most beautiful fjords of Norway where the breath-taking scenery will astound you.

Our cruise culminates at Gothenburg,

Sweden where we will arrange your homeward journey to the UK. Treasure of te Mediterraenean From 30th or 31st July to 17th or 18th August | 19 Days/18 Nights.

Discover Azure seas, traditional Mediterranean cuisine and scenic coastline on this cruise around France, Spain, Gubraltar and the Belearic Islands.

Amazing Azores From 17th or 18th to 29th August | 13 Days/12 Nights or 12 days/ 11 nights.

Sail from Portsmouth to the unspoilt islands of the Azores, recognised as the best landscapes by UNESCO and listed as the 2014 most preferred destination.

Also calling into Oporto, best known for its famous port wine. The cruise ends in Lisbon for your return flight to the UK.

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OUR TOP PICK TREASURES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN From 30th or 31st July to 17th or 18th August | 19 Days/18 Nights Portsmouth Watch Portsmouth’s bustling waterfront, with its historic battlements and modern skyscrapers slip away as your ship departs for the Cornwall coast.

Falmouth Cruise into the deep blue waters of Falmouth harbour and explore the cobbled high street of this picturesque fishing town. Grab a bite to eat at the Marina, or head to one of the many cosy pubs along the waterfront and admire the stunning views over towards the quaint hillside village of Flushing.

Oporto Next stop is Portugal’s second largest city – Oporto, a fascinating mixture of the old and new, where baroque carvings adorn churches and great steel bridges cross the River Douro.

Cadiz On the Southern coast of Spain, you will get the chance to explore the beautiful Cathedrals and museums of Cadiz, thought to be the oldest city in Western Europe.

Palma de Mallorca Explore the thriving art scene and café culture, discover Roman remains, or swim and snorkel in the crystalline waters of the Balearic Ocean surrounding the island of Mallorca.

Mahon The capital city of Menorca offers a fascinating journey through time, where you can learn about the island’s many bloody invasions, from the Islamic Caliphate of Córdoba in 903AD, to the British invasion in the 1700s.

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Ibiza Enjoy cocktails on pristine beaches, fresh Mediterranean cuisine and glorious landscapes from the diverse island of Ibiza.

Gibralta The diversity of wildlife and flora on this peninsular is outstanding, whether it’s the legendary Macaques, flowering gardens, or dolphins playing at the stern of your ship – just don’t forget to bring your camera!

Le Verdon-sur-Mer Taste some of France’s finest wines at Bordeax vineyards in Le Verdon-sur-Mer, or buy a few bottles to take home to friends and family.

La Rochelle Soak up the character and maritime history of this charming seaside town, bordered by the Atlantic.

Lisbon Take a wander around Portugal’s largest city, built into the hillside with staggering vistas from every angle and incredible sunsets over the sea.

Find out more about the Portuscale Cruises on offer in 2015:

Bilbao Find a beautiful mix of sun, culture and architecture in the Northern Spanish city of Bilbao.

Telephone: +351 213 463 015 Email: booking@portuscalecruises.pt Website: www.portuscalecruises.pt/enGB/

In Venice Without a Map Sam Gardom visits Venice, Italy, following his heart and his nose to track down the best food in the city

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s I stepped from the airport jetty onto the slippery wooden steps of the water taxi, the freshness of the evening washed over me. We buffeted our way across the water towards the floating city glowing on the horizon, its twinkling silhouettes sliding into focus as we grew nearer.

Slipping into the labyrinth of canals that dissect the city, the boat’s engine quietened and we drifted gently through the watery thoroughfares lined with crumbling palazzos, where vaulted windows cast shimmering reflections on the dark waters beneath.

We emerged onto the Grand Canal and caught our first glimpse of the Piazza di San Marco, a postcard image with the tall square bell tower imposingly lit. Then, joining the practised chaos of boats and motor launches vying for position, we made our way up to the Rialto where we were disembarked and found our apartment.

In Venice, as with so many places today, to really find the best of what it has to offer it is necessary to explore without agenda, losing yourself to the winding passages and

hidden delights of the city. When it comes to eating well in Venice, steering clear of the tourist traps and fending for oneself is often the only way to really make the most of the amazing produce on offer.

So the next morning, as I stumbled out of the apartment bleary-eyed on a mission to find breakfast supplies, I was delighted to see that the bars in the little square were already lined with a beautiful cross-section of Venice life.

Rough handed fishermen, their working day at an end, swilled dark coffee and brandy next to the blearyeyed chefs and stout matriarchs beginning their day with strong coffee and pastries.

Venturing into the column-lined market, which has housed the Venice fish market since 1555, the wooden trestles were laden with everything that the three seas – meeting at Italy’s heel, have to offer. On some, piles of crushed ice kept huge piles of lobsters, crabs, clams and delicate pink langoustine fresh and cool.

On others, fan-like displays of sea-bream, bass and tiger striped mackerel glittered

Sam Gardom is a chef, writer and passionate traveller whose years of professional experience and love of exploring new places has taken him all over the world, eating drinking and enjoying local cultures and traditions.

In this column he will share with you a snapshot of his travels and some of the amazing recipes and produce he encounters on the way. @SamGardom www.FeastBlog.co.uk next to the more unusual inhabitants of the lagoon – like the little brown ‘go fish’, and buckets of tiny brown crabs and shrimps that are such a delicacy of local cuisine. The huge bunches of colourful chillies, dried tomatoes and porcini mushrooms, their stems as thick as my wrist, are grown on the dedicated garden islands in the lagoon.

This, for me, is heaven. So often these days we rush from airport to hotel, museum to OCEAN VIEW 57

restaurant so fast that the real life of a place – its sights and smells, characters and hidden places pass us by. So take a chance, put down the map, put your camera away and wander free, keeping your eyes open. It’s in the characters, cobblestones and hidden markets that the true secrets of Venice are to be found.

Sam Recommends: Spaghetti alle Vongole serves 4 Spaghetti fresh Shallots – finely chopped Garlic 2 cloves – finely chopped 1 red chili – finely chopped Olive oil Good white wine – large glass Clams – 500 gr (soaked in cold salt water for about ½ hr) Langoustine – 250 gr shelled Parsley Lemon Heat the olive oil in a large, lidded sauté pan or Dutch oven. When the oil has heated and thinned, add the garlic, chilli and shallots and a pinch of salt. Sweat them gently until soft and translucent, then add the langoustine and cook for about 2 minutes stirring occasionally. Then turn up the heat and add the washed clams. Stir well and add the white wine.

The wine should start to boil immediately. Place the lid on the pan and cook for another 4-5 minutes, or until the clams have opened. Discard any unopened shells and add the juice of half a lemon. Season to taste and add a handful of the chopped parsley. Mix with the hot spaghetti and serve immediately.

Where to eat Trattoria Da Romano, Burano – Legendary for their creamy Venetian Go-fish risotto, uniquely stirred by tossing the contents of the pan high into the air to incorporate air, this institution is a must for all foodies looking for something different 58 OCEAN VIEW

www.daromano.it Poste Vecie, Rialto Mercato – Over a small wooden bridge in the back of the Rialto fish market, this hidden treasure has a fairy-tale feeling to it. Courteous service and the freshest fish in Venice make this romantic spot perfect for a fishy feast. www.postevecie.com MET, Metro Hotel, San Zaccaria – Worth splashing out on for those special occasions this Michelin starred wonder turns Italian cuisine on its head. Using the freshest local ingredients the menu takes you on a journey through the Veneto. www.hotelmetropole.com

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Telephone: +351 213 463 015 | Email: booking@portuscalecruises.pt OCEAN VIEW 59

Salute to the Sun

Soak up the warm rays of sunshine. Bathe in soft ripples of waves.

Indulge yourself in the vibrant Caribbean culture that is Aruba.

Please visit aruba.com for more information or contact your local travel agent.

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