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OCEAN VIEW TRAVEL
OCEAN VIEW 3 LIFESTYLE • SAILING • DESTINATION • LUXURY • RECIPES
Issue 05 Volume 15 2015
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Welcome
August is a quiet time of year; people make the most of the last of the summer sun by either going abroad or sitting in the garden for the first time in a year. With the sun shining and the breeze not yet turned chilled, what better time than now to take an adventure on the water? We cover Cowes Week in this month’s addition (page 26) and share with you how you can get involved in the UK’s most prestigious and largest sailing regatta, with a particular focus on the impact of Ladies Day – celebrating all that women achieve in the sport. If cruising is more your thing, we’ve got special offers on Cruise Shows across the country (take a look on pages 17 and 18).
Tenerife, page 06
Thinking of booking a last minute holiday? Why not head to the south of France, the Canary Islands, or even Edinburgh to enjoy the vibrant city during its most exciting time: Fringe Festival (pages 42 to 44). There’s something for everyone to enjoy in this beautiful city, especially during the festival. Tenerife, in the Canary Islands, is a place that can be visited and appreciated all year round, and makes a perfect family destination with the children just before they return back to school (pages 6 to 9). If you’re looking further ahead, look towards autumn and experience this colourful and crisp time of year in New England (page 12), with stunning views and great potential for a road trip.
South of France, page 48
Not sure what to do on the upcoming bank holiday? Never fear, OV has some of the best travel advice around for you to take on board for making the most of that extra day – it doesn’t come around often!
Enjoy your read!
Jenny Ardagh Editor
Edinburgh, page 42
OCEAN VIEW 3
ISSUE 05, VOLUME 15 2015
OV
CONTENTS
OCEAN VIEW TRAVEL
6. 10. crusing must-haves. Get ‘holiday ready’ with our selection of summer 12. the wonderful Step into the foliage of New England and be dazzled by Autumn colours 19. dishes withMysophisticated Italian Kitchen celebrates Laura Cassai’s love of simple flavours. 24. longest runningJoinsailing the sailing frenzy at one of the prestigious and events in the world. 34. to this variedIt’sScottish festival season in Edinburgh, so here is a quick guide city. 40. South EastJenny Ardagh shares her key city and island experiences in Asia’s gem, Thailand. 46. to add to yourA compilation of some of the greatest views across the globe own bucket list. 49. and villages of theBarrie Mason introduces the stunning coastal towns South of France. 54. Flo Hardy tells OV Travel about the wonders of Egypt. 56. Bloomsbury Publishing: We pick our favourite yacht from the new book from ‘Ultimate Classic Yachts: 20 of the world’s Canary Island: Tenerife: A bit of an insight into why Tenerife is the biggest and best-known Canary Island.
OCEAN VIEW 3 LIFESTYLE • SAILING • DESTINATION • LUXURY • RECIPES
Issue 05 Volume 15 2015
Cover Image: Aberdeen Asset Management www.aamcowesweek.co.uk (getty images ©)
Spending It:
New England:
Ocean View Magazine Managing Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfield lee@lifemediagroup.co.uk Commercial Director: Simon Skinner simon@lifemediagroup.co.uk Operations Director Clare Fermor clare@lifemediagroup.co.uk Commercial Manager Patrick McCreanor patrick@lifemediagroup.co.uk Advertising Sales Steve Pike steve@ovtravel.co Editor: Jenny Ardagh jenny@lifemediagroup.co.uk Production Manager: Harriet Weston harriet@lifemediagroup.co.uk Production Designer Amy Watson amy@lifemediagroup.co.uk Accounts: Amelia Wellings: amelia@lifemediagroup.co.uk Subscriptions: Linda Grace linda@lifemediagroup.co.uk Published by: LMG SE LTD Unit 1, Swan Barn Business Centre Old Swan Lane, Hailsham, BN27 2BY Printed by: Berforts 17 Burgess Road, Ivyhouse Lane Hastings, East Sussex, TN35 4NR 01424 722733 www.berforts.co.uk
All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Life Media Group LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press. Copyright Life Media Group 2015 ©
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Recipes:
Cowes Week:
Edinburgh: Thailand:
Top Views:
South of France:
Your Stories:
Book Extract:
most beautiful classic yachts’.
60. weekend? HereUnsure of what to do for the upcoming bank holiday are some suggestions on how to make the most of it. Travel Advice:
OCEAN VIEW 5
Tenerife Best of the Canary Islands:
Jenny Ardagh gives an insight into why Tenerife is the biggest and best-known Canary Island
OCEAN VIEW 7 Photo by Nacho Pintos Š
Tenerife was a big destination focus in my childhood, going there on numerous family holidays and, as a true Brit does, staying in the same place each time. When I got older, we did start to explore a little farther than the deckchair by the pool and ‘our spot’ on the beach. We went to more beaches, of course, but we also discovered the stunning diversity of the island in all its volcanic glory. This is the largest of Spain’s Canary Islands, situated off West Africa, just a short flight from the UK but combining a Spanish lifestyle with African heat. Mount Teide is a land icon you cannot miss as you fly into Tenerife, or in fact from most places on the island. The 12,198-foot volcano towers over the rest of the island like a vulture over the desert. It last erupted in 1909 and has been dormant ever since. With 18,900 hectares surrounding it, the world’s third tallest volcano sits snuggly in one of the 8 OCEAN VIEW
most visited national parks, recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To experience this mighty mount, you can take a cable car from the bottom to the summit, in just 8 minutes. As the cable car climbs, you can appreciate the view of an island made up of many layers of history, literally and symbolically. Another popular attraction on the island is the Parrot Park, or Loro Parque. This is a family-friendly theme park, and one of the largest of its kind in the world. I’m not ashamed to say this was one of my favourite places to go in Tenerife as a child with over 4,000 parrots from 350 different species to see. Here, you can also see killer whales, penguins, sea lions and dolphins. Can’t make it to Rio Carnival? Well, you can make do with second best, in Tenerife. The annual Carnival in the capital, Santa Cruz, each February, is a spectacular event, bringing together more than a million people
from all over the world for a two week fiesta filled with colour, history and celebration. Scuba diving and snorkeling in the Canary Islands as a whole is a wonderful experience, with scope for all abilities and a wide range of things to see, including shipwrecks, walls and underwater or secluded caves. The Condesito Shipwreck is one of the most famous dives, as it has an intact cabin and hull to see and explore for the more adventurous and advanced divers. In the deeper waters, you will find rays, moray eels, turtles and all manner of fish. Whale and dolphin watching is also something I, and one member of my family, would also recommend you do – I can’t say the same for the other member, who suffers from the curse that is seasickness. This is something to do on a calm day with little wind, as the Atlantic Ocean isn’t known for its flat waters. All year round, you can spot colonies of pilot whales and free-living
Benijo Photo by John6536 ©
whales very close to the coast, alongside 21 different species of killer whale and blue whale. Of course, bottlenose dolphins are seen most commonly. Playa de las Americas is one of those destinations that tourists seem to flock to, with a buzzing nightlife and happenings 24/7. Don’t think it’s just a party destination though, as during the day there is a lot to enjoy for families, especially with the beach filled with potential things to do, and restaurants lining the coast, ready to cater for families of all sizes and ages. This is also one of the best spots for surfing, with huge waves crashing in from the Atlantic. The sea is always a little turbulent here, so don’t expect turquoise, Mediterraneanlike waters. However, the beaches, although varied across the island, are generally lovely. It’s easy to find yourself a secluded spot to sunbathe in and enjoy the volcanic, black sand. However, if you’re looking for a more idyllic or - let’ face it - generic beachside experience, head to Los Cristianos. This is a 400 metre long, white sand beach that is shielded by the port and harbour, providing sunbathers and swimmers with calmer and even warmer water. Be prepared to get there early if going with family, though, as the beach itself gets particularly packed despite its vastness. Having said that, this is a place you can certainly spend most of the day enjoying the African-meets-Spanish weather and maybe whiling away your time peoplewatching – always an intriguing pastime on busy tourist beaches.
Photo by Juan A. Del Pino ©
“It’s easy to find yourself a secluded spot to sunbathe in and enjoy the volcanic, black sand”
OCEAN VIEW 9 Tenerife - La Caleta to Las Americas
OverBoard Waterproof Zoom Lens Camera Case Transform a zoom lens compact camera into an underwater model with the OverBoard Waterproof Zoom Lens Camera Case, guaranteed submersible to 19ft / 6m and offering protection from sand and dirt as well. £24.99. www.peak-uk.com
Cruise Control Get ‘holiday ready’ with our selection of summer crusing must-haves
Jonathan Adler - Malachite Beach Towel Stay stylish on the beach with this Malachite beach towel from Jonathan Adler. Crafted from 100% cotton it’s wonderfully soft and absorbent and features a unique malachite pattern. £82. www.amara.com
APPLE iPad Air 2 At just 6.1 mm thick, the Air 2 is Apple’s thinnest ever iPad. It’s impressively light too, so it’s easy to hold in one hand, discretely slip into and bag and take anywhere. From £399. www.laredoute.co.uk 10 OCEAN VIEW
Jasper Conran at Tripp Cruise Large Scarlet Jasper Conran at Tripp Cruise is ultra-lightweight. The large hard side case finished in high shine Scarlet with bespoke trim and white pin dot lining. £149. www.debenhams.com
SPENDING IT
Floppy Ombre Hat Embrace the boho chic look and stylishly cool in the sun with this woven floppy hat in a bright yellow. £20. www.oliverbonas.com
Swarovski CL Companion 8x30 Binoculars Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II Black Digital Camera
You can use the CL Companion 8x30 binoculars with their 372 ft / 124 m field of view to gain a good overview during observation, and their 8x magnification offers you a very smooth, judder-free image for comfortable viewing. £850. http://uk.swarovskioptik.com
Ideal for capturing clear photos and movies in low light without a tripod. From vertical and horizontal angle rotations to vertical and horizontal shifts and rolling movements. Body only £899. www.olympus.com
COAST Escape Collection - Holdall Handmade in New Zealand the Grip is both stylish and versatile. Featuring a marine-grade Sunbrella shell and fully lined with a zipped internal pocket. £120.22. www.coastnewzealand.com.au
Tom Ford Sunglasses Vintage wayfarer round shiny acetate sunglasses with metal insert and signature ‘T’ logo. £250. www.visionexpress.com
OCEAN VIEW 11
Conneticut
New England in the Fall The best of:
Step into the foliage of New England and be dazzled by the wonderful Autumn colours Autumn is a season full of colour: the crisp leaves cover the ground like an orange, red-brown and yellow carpet, the trees aren’t quite bare, but portend to the winter to come and hint at the summer that’s gone. Where best to enjoy these beautiful tones than in New England, a place famous for its glorious foliage and the endless possibilities for hiking, biking, walking and taking a drive. The leaves start turning colour in the
northern regions of Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire typically around midto-late September and the ‘Fall’ peaks in around mid-October. In the more southern
lasts up until November. Inland you’ll find wilderness and adventure, and on the coast you can still appreciate the autumnal colours, whilst enjoying the sea breeze, which still has its summer warmth.
“Inland you’ll find wilderness and adventure, and on the coast you can still appreciate the Autumnal colours, whilst enjoying the sea breeze”
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states of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and along the coast of New Hampshire and southern Maine, the leaves change colour and float off the trees a little later and often
Connecticut Connecticut is the third smallest state by area in the south of New England, mixing coastal cities with rural pastures among small and larger towns. Travelling by car is one of the better ways to travel through this varied state, and the
Massachusetts
ideal thing to do is travel up through route 169. This route runs parallel to the Rhode Island border, with quaint villages such as Canterbury, Pomfret, Brooklyn, and Woodstock along the way. This is a great place for wine lovers also, with the Connecticut Wine Trail leading to 25 wineries where you can learn and taste the difference between some of the best wines available: Merlot, Chardonnay, Cayuga and Seyval. In Fall, there’s also ample opportunity to pick your own pumpkins and apples, or hike and bike in the 35-town National Heritage Corridor in the northeast corner of the state where there are 5 state parks, 7 state forests, 80 ponds and lakes, and 130 miles of trails. Hike bike or walk through the ‘Last Green Valley,’ or the East Coast Greenway. Mystic Country is an area that appeals to everyone, with the glamour of the casinos and nightlife, plus the charm of the seafarer villages, historic lighthouses and fishing heritage. Mystic Country is on the south coast of Connecticut, just East of New Haven and New London. A couple of must-sees in Mystic Country are the seaport, the aquarium with over 3,000 fish and other underwater creatures to see, the three largest casinos in the world (Foxwoods Resort Casino, Mashantucket and Mohegan Sun), the number one golf destination in New England – Lake of Isles, and the University of Connecticut. A number of different and exciting things happen in the Fall here in Mystic Country, including pumpkin carving underwater at the aquarium, and haunted ship experiences. In the first couple of weeks of October, Mystic Country hosts Groton’s Annual Fall Festival, which features a wide range of live entertainment, activities for children and adults alike and activities. Massachusetts Just North of Connecticut, you will find Massachusetts, known for its significant Colonial history. With Boston as its capital, the American Revolution is at the heart of this state. Visit the very rock where
Vermont
pilgrims landed and walk the Freedom Trail to learn about this turning point in American history. The Fall is an ideal time for a drive along the Mohawk Trail in Western Massachusetts. This is America’s first officially-designated “scenic road” and it runs over 63 miles up the Berkshire Hills, leading to 50,000 acres of vast and beautiful state parks and forests perfect for hiking and biking. Here, the colours come alive in Autumn, so get your camera out and make the most of it, especially if you’re viewing it from Mount
“Visit the very rock where pilgrims landed and walk the Freedom Trail to learn about this turning point in American history” OCEAN VIEW 13
New England
Greylock, which has stunning views of the foliage. If you want to get a bit closer to nature, you can take the zipline tour through the canopy also. Alternatively, you can take the Beauty and the Berkshires driving route, leading from North to South, or vice versa, as opposed to the East-West Mohawk Trail. On your way through, you’ll find many places you just have to stop, including the Ioka Valley Farm which hosts plenty of seasonal activities include maple syrup boiling demonstrations and pancake breakfast; pick-your-own strawberries; pumpkin and more Fall specific activities. Walking trails along the route are also plenty, with acres of land either side of the route. The Pleasant Valley Wildlife Sanctuary provides a perfect walking trail through 1,300 acres of conservation land. A foliage hotspot nearby is Wood’s Pond, a 2.8 mile trail used mostly for canoeing, which is a slightly more unique way to see the scenery should you not mind risking getting a bit wet. At the end of the route, you’ll find a different view to appreciate, with splendid mountain vistas, caves to explore, plants and wildlife to discover and forest and marshes to trek. Vermont In Vermont in the Fall, even the locals can’t help but look up and gaze at the colourful canvas that nature has provided. Nearly every weekend, there’s a craft fair, or community event to be part of, and the fun is particularly evident in September. Tunbridge World’s Fair, Killington Hay Festival, Vermont Golden Honey Festival, and the annual Peru Fair are among the many festivals and events during the boom of autumn. There are over 20 scenic drives to choose from if you’re going for the classic road trip style adventure, all offering vistas, sweeping forests, scenic farmland, open fields and parks and bridges. The major routes take you along the Highways, but for a more authentic ‘Vermont’ experience, you should consider taking the secondary roads and byways, which range from 30 miles to over 400 miles in length.
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New England
Maine
Maine
The Green Mountain Byway runs through the towns of Waterbury and Stowe and it provides stunning views of open meadows, farmlands and forests, all with a spectacular mountain backdrop. Hiking the Long Trail on the mountain and up to Vermont’s highest peak, Mount Mansfield shows you the area’s most prominent features and a stunning view. There are plenty of trail guides here that are ideal for both walking and cycling, so there’s no shortage of opportunities to see the foliage at this spectacular time of year. Maine Maine, just north of New Hampshire has a dramatic coastline, offering a wide variety of cruise opportunities, islands and historic lighthouses. Portland offers ferry trips to the islands of Casco Bay, sometimes called The Calendar Islands as it is said
you could explore a different island each day of the year, although there are less than 365 islands. A drive along this majestic coast should be based around seeing the lighthouses that are scattered along it – make sure you see at least one. Maine is also home to four National Scenic Byways: the Acadia All-American Highway, the Old Canada Road Scenic Byway, the Rangeley Lakes National Scenic Byway and the Schoodic National Scenic Byway. These are an ideal way of seeing all there is to see out your car window, perhaps even spotting a wild animal here or there – a moose, beavers, raccoons, puffins or even black bears. You’re most likely to spot one of these sites in one of the 32 state parks, which cover nearly half a million acres. Baxter State Park, a 201,000 acre-large wilderness area is set at the base of Mount Katahdin
with over 50 inter-connecting trails to ponds and peaks. Climbing the mountains in any of the state parks, or especially in the only National Park in Maine, Acadia, will give you an astounding view over the Atlantic Ocean that you won’t forget. For a lakeside retreat, head to Rangeley Lake State Park, where you can explore nearly 900 acres of land surrounding the lake. You can also hike and camp here, with sites open from May 15 to Oct. 1. The Rangeley Lakes region is made up of six large lakes, and hundreds of smaller lakes and rivers, all visible from Saddleback Mountain where it’s popular to ski in the winter months. In the Midcoast, the Maine Maritime Museum is an interesting visit for those who wish to learn more about the old boats, the shipyard and the art of the state. OCEAN VIEW 15
The CRUISE Show
Visit a world of voyages, discounts, deals and inspiration in Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow this autumn Where and when are the three autumn CRUISE Shows taking place? Birmingham - NEC Saturday 12th September 2015: 10am-5pm Sunday 13th September 2015: 10am-4pm Manchester - Manchester Central Saturday 26th September 2015: 10am-5pm Sunday 27th September 2015: 10am-4pm Glasgow – SECC, Exhibition Way Saturday 10th October 2015: 10am5pm Sunday 11th October 2015: 10am4pm For more show information please visit www.cruisingshow.com.
P&O Cruises
The CRUISE Show, Europe’s leading cruise event will be hosted this year over three locations providing a collection of some of the most prevalent cruise lines and specialist operators in one place, for one weekend. Whether you’re looking for a once-ina-lifetime expedition cruise to a far-flung destination, a sumptuous ultra-luxury voyage, maybe a relaxing cultural river 16 OCEAN VIEW
cruise or a tropical family cruise-holiday with lots of entertainment on offer for all ages – The CRUISE Show has all you need to book your next trip. The show is packed with information and inspiration on all types of cruises from a huge range of operators. Each show gives visitors the opportunity to make the most of exclusive moneysaving show offers and upgrades. Visitors
will be inspired by the informative free talks, which uncover everything there is to know about cruising, from luxury cruising to river cruising, for newcomers, or regulars who are wondering where to cruise next. In these sessions you will gain essential expert advice that can’t be found in the brochure, from cruise line executives, industry experts and journalists who will share their insider knowledge and tips. Discover different ship
styles and incredible destinations and also hear directly from the cruise lines about what’s new for 2015/2016. So, if you’re completely new to cruising and intrigued to discover what it’s all about, or you’re a seasoned cruiser wanting inspiration for your next adventure, then make sure you head to one of The CRUISE Shows this autumn.
Hurtigruten
www.cruisingshow.com
WIN! Where are the three autumn CRUISE Shows taking place?
WIN A PAIR OF TICKETS TO ANY OF THE THREE SHOWS!
Competition:
We are giving 10 lucky people the chance to win a pair of tickets to any of the three shows! Just answer this simple question on the left:
Reader’s ticket offer:
When you’ve got it, simply email the answer with the subject line ‘OCEAN VIEW COMPETITION’ to competition@cruisingshow.com. Don’t forget to include your contact details so that we can let you know if you’re one of our lucky winners! Closing Date: 31st August 2015
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Image: Star Clippers
We are also offering reduced price advance tickets to the show! Get your tickets for only £4 (that’s saving £6 off the door price!!) by quoting ‘OCEANVIEW’ when booking tickets online at www.cruisingshow.com or when calling 0871 620 4024. (Calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras).
KITCHEN GOODIES
Blomus Delta Decanting Wine Carafe, £48. www.black-by-design.co.uk
Support For Lids, £8.50. en.dawanda.com/
Joseph Joseph Nest 7 Plus Kitchen Set, £26.51. www.thedesigngiftshop.com
Foodie Gadgets
MUST HAVES iKettle, £99.95. www.red5.co.uk
Savora Red Garlic Press, £16.99. www.kitchencraft. co.uk
Egg Rack by Storm Furniture, £75. www.storm-furniture.co.uk
Blomus Acqua Water Carafe, £42. www.black-by-design.co.uk
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ESSENTIAL RECIPES
My Italian Kitchen
For Laura Cassai, great food is a way of life. Showcasing her roots in traditional Tuscan and Sicilian cooking, My Italian Kitchen celebrates Laura’s love of simple dishes with sophisticated flavours
Tomato, buffalo curd and basil bruschetta This bruschetta is perfect for breakfast or brunch occasions. Tomato, basil and cheese is the greatest combination of all time, with freshness, acidity, creaminess and crunch. What more could you ask for? Buffalo curd isn’t all that common. I’ve used it in this recipe, as I think this beautiful ingredient isn’t showcased enough. It’s the same texture as goat’s curd, but not as strong in flavour. It’s creamy and goes so well with the freshness of this dish. SERVES 6–8 10–12 thick slices Ciabatta bread 1 garlic clove 100 g (3 ½ oz/ ½ cup) buffalo curd 4 roma (plum) tomatoes, thinly sliced 1 large handful basil, leaves picked extra-virgin olive oil sea salt flakes METHOD Toast the ciabatta slices, then rub each side with the garlic clove. Spread some buffalo curd over the toasted bread, place some tomato slices on top then add some fresh basil leaves. Drizzle with some olive oil, season with sea salt and crack some black pepper over the top.
Right: Tomato, buffalo curd and basil bruschetta
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ESSENTIAL RECIPES
Fire-grilled fish and seafood SERVES 6 2 long red chillies, finely diced 150 g (5 ½ oz/1 bunch) flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 60 ml (2 fl oz/ ¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for coating sea salt flakes 4 squid 2 baby snapper (or any other small ocean fish), cleaned and scored 12 king prawns (shrimp), kept whole 12 sardines, cleaned and gutted 6 baby octopus 6 scampi 6 lemons, cut into wedges, for serving METHOD Heat your barbecue or open-fire grill. In a small bowl, mix together the chilli, parsley, garlic and olive oil. Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. This will be your marinade to baste over some of the seafood as it is cooking.
“Fresh seafood is often at its best when cooked simply. One of my favourite ways of cooking fish and other seafood is just grilled over a fire or barbecue with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. It’s quick and easy, and the simple, honest flavours are magnificent. In this recipe, I use a basic but delicious marinade to complement the fish and seafood. Some people are nervous about cooking with seafood, as sometimes the preparation can be a little tricky. Your local fishmonger can always do this for you – it may cost a little extra, but it’s often really worthwhile.”
To clean the squid, gently pull the tentacles away from the tube (the intestines should come away at the same time). Remove the intestines from the tentacles by cutting under the eyes, then remove the beak if it remains in the centre of the tentacles by using your fingers to push up the centre. Pull away the quill (the transparent cartilage) from inside the body and remove. Remove and discard any white membrane. Under cold running water pull away the skin from the tube. Cut the squid into rings, keeping the tentacles and wings. Coat all the fish and seafood with a touch of oil to prevent them from sticking while cooking. The baby snapper are going to take the longest to cook, around 4–5 minutes on each side, so place the fish on the hot barbecue or grill first. Once the fish has about 4 minutes to go and has been turned, place all the other seafood onto the barbecue or grill, and cook for 2 minutes on each side, or until cooked through. Baste the prawns, sardines, squid, octopus and scampi with the marinade while cooking. You can use a knife to check if everything is cooked through. Just make a slit into the thickest part of each piece of seafood to ensure it’s ready. Once cooked, place all the seafood onto a large platter and serve with lemon wedges.
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Right: Fire-grilled fish and seafood
OCEAN VIEW 21
ESSENTIAL RECIPES
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Profiteroles with orange cinnamon ricotta MAKES 24 PROFITEROLES 75 g (2 ¾ oz) unsalted butter, diced 150 g (5 ½ oz/1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted 4 eggs melted dark cooking chocolate for dunking
“Profiteroles are always a crowd pleaser at family events. Instead of using the traditional custard I like to put my own spin on these by using orange, cinnamon and ricotta, a traditional Sicilian combination … It really is to die for!”
ORANGE CINNAMON RICOTTA FILLING 500 g (1 lb 2 oz/2 cups) fresh ricotta 75 g (2 ¾ oz/ ½ cup) finely chopped dark chocolate 80 g (2 ¾ oz/ 1/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar finely grated zest of 4 oranges 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon METHOD Preheat the oven to 260 0C (500 0F). In a small saucepan, place 250 ml (8 ½ fl oz/1 cup) of water and the butter over a low heat and bring to the boil until the butter is melted. Add the flour and a pinch of salt and, using a wooden spoon, beat the mixture until a ball forms and doesn’t stick to the side of the saucepan. Remove the dough from the heat. Allow the mixture to cool slightly before transferring into the bowl of an electric mixer. Turn on to a low speed, adding the eggs one at a time, but beating well after each addition. The mixture should be thick, glossy and very smooth. Line two baking trays with baking paper and place dollops of the mixture, about 1 teaspoon in size, onto the trays, allowing room for spreading. Bake for 10 minutes, then drop the temperature to 180 0C (360 0F) and cook for a further 40 minutes until the puffs are golden and firm. Once the profiteroles have cooked through, make an incision in the base of each one with a knife to release the steam, and place back in the turned-off oven to dry out. This will only take a few minutes. While the profiteroles are cooling down, make the filling. Mix the ricotta, chocolate, sugar, orange zest and cinnamon in a bowl until it is all incorporated. Spoon the filling into a piping (icing) bag and pipe some filling into each profiterole, then dip into the melted chocolate. Serve immediately, when they are at their best.
Left: Profiteroles with orange cinnamon ricotta
My Italian Kitchen by Laura Cassai (Hardie Grant, £20.00) Photography: Chris Middleton
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Cowes Week Aberdeen Asset Management
Join the sailing frenzy at one of the prestigious and longest running sailing events in the world OCEAN VIEW 25
What better way than to spend your days on the open sea, wind in your hair and the taste of achievement on your tongue – or is that sea salt? Sailing is a sport that has long been seen as a prestigious and slightly expensive hobby, however it’s something that brings all walks of life together, with the sea as your ally and the world as your oyster. Aberdeen Asset Management Cowes Week, is one of the most prestigious and long-standing sporting events in the UK,
dating back to 1826. As such, it’s a huge part of the British sporting calendar and is believed to be the world’s largest and oldest sailing regatta.
Day, Charity Day and Youth Day. Other highlights include a variety of international entries, big boats practicing for the FastNet, and plenty of shore-side entertainment. The official charity for the second year in a row, is UKSA, which alongside Aberdeen Asset Management has announced its new “Unlocking Potential” Programme aimed at helping young people to develop their confidence, communication skills and, of course sailing ability through a four-week development
“Sailing not only taught me higher caliber skills, but most importantly, taught me soft skills like communication, which is key in not only sailing but life.”
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- UKSA graduate, Dee Caffari MBE
It now stages up to 40 daily races with around 1,000 boats taking part throughout the week, offering a mix of competitive sailing and social activities. This year, there are four themed days: Family Day, Ladies
COWES WEEK course. The sponsor, and UKSA, have taken on six young people from St Giles Trust, an organisation that works with ex-offenders and disadvantaged people, who will be acting as ambassadors throughout the week as well as sailing in the regatta. Simon Davies, the Director for Youth Development at UKSA views this opportunity as invaluable, helping them well on their way to raising their goal of £100,000, increasing on last year’s successful reach of £35,000. UKSA, based on the Isle of Wight itself, has a large presence in schools and youth groups on the island who, for most, will be encountering the sea for the first time. UKSA believe, and have seen first hand, that sailing can change people’s lives, with 89% of youngsters involved turning their back on a life of crime and 91% never re-offend. The teamwork involved in sailing gives young people a real confidence and self-esteem boost, and increases their sense of achievement. Some of the Ambassadors told OV Travel how enthusiastic they were about the Youth Development programmes run by UKSA, and how much they felt it has benefited them. All described it as being ‘part of a family’ with the sport making them feel ‘important’ and able to succeed. UKSA graduate, Dee Caffari MBE, having sailed around the world three times, understands the importance of the youth programme, saying: “Sailing not only taught me higher caliber skills, but most importantly, taught me soft skills like communication, which is key in not only sailing but life.” She commented: “Aberdeen Asset Management Cowes Week is simply a very special event, there is nothing quite like it anywhere else in the world so it is fantastic that these youngsters are able to look forward to it just as much as we are.” Ladies Day Ladies day is taking place on Tuesday 11th August, sponsored by Liz Earle. This is an event that started in 2006 to commemorate women’s numerous achievements in the sport. The prominence of women in sailing
is ever growing, and all involved in Cowes Week are huge supporters of this day and its meaning for the sport. Kate Johnson, Commercial and Marketing Director at Cowes Week Ltd has worked in Marketing for 15 years and joined the Cowes team in April with the aim of combining her professional life with one of her greatest hobbies, sailing. Kate especially realises the promise behind a day like this, but really brought the message home by saying: “Sailing truly is an inclusive sport. There can be a perception that women aren’t as strong so female sailors sometimes feel that they have to justify their position in a crew. Liz Earle Ladies Day at Aberdeen Asset Management Cowes Week is a chance to highlight female achievements and contribution to the sport.”
“Sailing truly is an inclusive sport. There can be a perception that women aren’t as strong so female sailors sometimes feel that they have to justify their position in a crew” - Kate Johnson, Commercial and Marketing Director at Cowes Week Ltd
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Dee Caffari proudly held the trophy at Ladies Day last year, a reward that followed a 15-year sailing career across a wide range of classes and a single-handed, non-stop journey around the world – in what she called both the ‘right’ and the ‘wrong’ direction. She is the only woman to have sailed non-stop around the world three times and was clearly utterly delighted to be acknowledged at Cowes Week 2014. On the topic of Ladies Day, Dee commented: “The perception of women in sailing has certainly changed over the 15 years that I’ve been in the sport.” She added that it would take a while for female leaders to come around in sailing, but that it’s all about confidence, which an achievement – such as winning a regatta – could kick start. “You need high self esteem and a good support network to make it in sailing,” Dee says. She points out that mixed sailing is ‘how we live our lives’ and with a third of competitors in mixed regattas this year female, it’s very promising. The Ladies trophy recognises outstanding contribution, commitment and achievement for women in sailing, and nominations for this year’s award are now open. Previous winners include the likes of Helena Lucas, a 2012 Paralympics gold medalist (and the first ever female to win gold in the category), Annie O’Sullivan, who has crossed the Atlantic Ocean 4 times, Tina Scott, Louise Morton and Sam Davies. Kate is an enthusiastic sailor herself and has raced at Cowes five times, so appreciates the hard work that goes into regattas such as those that take place in Cowes Week and, especially embarking on a journey around the world, as Dee did: “Personally, I don’t think I would enjoy sailing around the world solo. Sailing is all about the teamwork for me - that’s what motivates me. I feel sailing is best for me when I am part of a crew, and I have my specific role within that crew.” For those not getting directly involved with the sailing, there’s plenty going on for spectators. On Ladies Day itself, there will be a Best Dressed competition for which ladies are encouraged to dress in blue and 28 OCEAN VIEW
COWES WEEK
white, or ‘nautical’ to compete for the prize. There will be a champagne afternoon tea with prize draw on the Cowes Parade, also with special offers for ladies across the day. Families and Spectators Another themed day during Cowes Week is Family Day, held on Sunday 9th August. This day is aimed at both parents and children, encouraging them to make the most of the sailing opportunities that are on offer at Cowes. There is a range of family-friendly activities and exclusive group offers, as well as free events, which include ‘Open to all’ sailing sessions with UKSA, pirate fun,
open-air cinema screenings, and educational shows about how to survive on a desert island. The famous cardboard boat race will also be taking place at 3pm, and families can also enjoy a RIB ride with Solent RIB
introduce the whole family to sailing, with UKSA offering an hour’s sailing tuition with their instructors between 9.30am and 6pm for just £5. For spectators, one of the best locations to watch the regattas begin on the shore each morning in between the Castle of the Royal Yacht Squadron and the cannons. To see them finish, head towards Egypt Point along the Green. There are also a number of options for watching from the water, with a range of boat opportunities.
“Sailing is something for all the family, and this day really highlights that. It’s a great way of bonding for all ages” Charters at a special family price. Sailing is something for all the family, and this day really highlights that. It’s a great way of bonding for all ages. The ‘open to all’ sailing sessions are the best way to
Cowes Week is held on the Isle of Wight from 8th – 15th August 2015. OCEAN VIEW 29
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Memories of Sailing Caroline shares the positive experiences and lifelong memories that a family sailing holiday brings My childhood memories of sailing holidays? A heady, sensory cocktail made up of the following smells: diesel, oilskin waterproofs and seasickness. Those were the days – my brother, sister and I huddled in silent, miserable unity as my Dad sailed his 27ft Seamaster around the Cornish coastline. So, it was with some trepidation that we packed up Oliver and Esme, our six year old twins, for their first sailing holiday, with Sunsail. We needn’t have worried; the moment they set eyes on our boat, a 444 catamaran called Skywalker, they were hooked. Even before we’d hauled the luggage aboard, they’d investigated every nook and cranny, from bow to stern. It’s like a child’s dream den – plus it doubles up as their very own pirate ship! We chose the Ionian out of Lefkas, Greece for its family-friendly sailing, with short hops between stops, calm seas and plentiful beaches. And there’s plenty to sooth adult souls too, with stunning turquoise waters, picturesque harbours and delicious food in quaint quayside taverns. As we sailed, Oliver and Esme took turns at being “Captain” at the helm or “Look out”, spotting landmarks and navigation buoys. Or even, to our greatest surprise, simply laying back and watching the world go by (albeit until they started squabbling). We were on the Kefalonia Flotilla, along with 10 other boats, plus our lead boat, Quest. As it was half-term, most of the them had been chartered by families, so Oliver and Esme had a gaggle of mates from day one – it was lovely watching them piling on and off each other’s boats or grabbing their swimming costumes and heading for the water.
Throughout the week, when the weather threw everything at us, our lead crew were heroes! Whether seeing the last boat out of port in the morning or waiting in the pouring rain at the end of the day, Skipper, Tom was steadfastly cheerful. Engineer, Ray was a magician, fixing outboards, untangling painters from propellers and diving down to uncross anchor, after anchor… after anchor. Hostess, Claire ensured we knew where we needed to be and what was worth seeing on
the way. Plus, she kept us entertained with quizzes, cocktail competitions and top-ofthe-mast egg drop challenges (she mixes a mean punch too). Seeing the bright flags of Quest at each port or mooring was a reassurance. So, if it’s reassurance you’re after, Flotilla sailing is the way to go. For more information visit Sunsail.co.uk or call 02038135204 OCEAN VIEW 31
Flotilla – the perfect family holiday? Enjoy the feeling of freedom and the safety of support every day on Flotilla with Sunsail Ever since Sunsail launched the industry’s first flotilla holidays back in 1974, they’ve been helping holidaymakers realise their sailing dreams in some of the world’s most beautiful destinations. Offering a range of amazing adventures out on the water, a world-class fleet and more than 40 years of expert knowledge, a Sunsail holiday is designed to help you discover the world from a new perspective. Whether you’re a complete beginner or an ‘old salt’, Sunsail offers something for everyone. Be adventurous or laid-back; the choice is entirely yours. They can even provide a skipper to show you the ropes or 32 OCEAN VIEW
to take the wheel when you want to relax. You can plot your own course on a bareboat charter or embrace sailing’s social side on flotilla. There’s also the chance to get ICC qualified whilst on flotilla in Croatia and Greece, otherwise you can learn at 6 sailing schools in the UK and abroad. What is a flotilla? The dictionary defines a flotilla as ‘a fleet of ships’, but that doesn’t even begin to describe what’s in store on a Sunsail flotilla holiday. Enjoy the freedom to sail your own way by day, with nights spent swapping stories with your fellow sailors over dinner
and drinks. Throughout, your lead crew will be there to offer as much, or as little, support, advice and inspiration as you need. How does it work? A common misperception of flotillas is that you have to sail like ‘ducks in a row’, but it offers much more independence than that. Every day you’re briefed by your lead crew on the destination for the day, including weather updates, must-see hotspots and favourite stops for a bite to eat along the way. They’ll be on-hand to assist with casting off in the morning
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and waiting to help you moor up later on. Until then, you’re free to go your own way, whether that means carving up the waves with the wind in your sails or finding the perfect beach for a spot of sunbathing. And, you can sail with confidence, knowing that any assistance from your lead crew is only a VHF or phone call away. Evenings provide the perfect opportunity to get to know your fellow sailors, whether at a punch party or over dinner at an amazing local restaurant. After all, camaraderie and fun are what lie at the heart of a Sunsail flotilla holiday. A few top tips from flotilla customers Consider a catamaran: The space and stability makes a cat excellent for energetic young children. It can easily sleep two families, giving each the privacy of their own “hull”, with plenty of space up top (great for hosting a G&T end-of-day catch-up).
Fall for a Flotilla: Having other children around at the start and end of the day is perfect entertainment for kids, giving you time to get to know your fellow crews. And, in the summer holidays, flotillas from Lefkas have a Kids Coordinator organising daily activities to keep them busy while you relax. Maximise your peace of mind: With less to worry about, you’ve got more time to enjoy your holiday! Sunsail provides children’s lifejackets, plus you can request safety netting as an extra, removing any worry about your little ones tripping over on their first trip out. It also helps to set the rules early on – keep young children below-deck when setting off or mooring up and when under sail. Get the kids involved: Spotting landmarks,
“Enjoy the freedom to sail your own way by day, with nights spent swapping stories with your fellow sailors over dinner and drinks” making knots, rowing the dinghy, fishing off the back – there’s so much to do that you won’t do at home and they’ll absolutely love it! Visit www.sunsail.co.uk or call 02038135204
DIVE IN, SET SAIL OR JUST SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE VIEW. TRY A NEW KIND OF BEACH HOLIDAY WITH SUNSAIL If you dream of a holiday that makes you feel alive, filled with adventure and new experiences, then look no further. From going solo in the South Pacific, to our group flotillas in the Mediterranean, you can explore one of 26 stunning worldwide destinations. Can’t sail? No problem. Let a Skipper take the wheel or learn abroad at one of our sailing schools.
CALL US NOW FOR A QUOTE ON 0203 813 5204 OR VISIT SUNSAIL.CO.UK
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August Festivities
It’s festival season in Edinburgh, so here is a quick guide to this varied Scottish city
Photo byAndy Smith Š
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he centre for education, culture, festivals and the arts, and situated in the central ‘belt’ of Scotland, it’s easy to see why Edinburgh is such an inspiring capital city. Edinburgh combines stunning landscape with a city centre that boasts a hub of activity. The Old Town of the city hosts medieval courtyards, cobbled, narrow streets and alleyways and an insight into the Reformation-era along the Royal Mile. This stretch leads from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse and is particularly spectacular in August during Edinburgh Fringe, with performers lining the street. Holyrood Park is a short walk from the Royal Mile, adjacent to Holyrood Palace, and is a fantastic place to enjoy a walk through nature. The Royal Park is 640 acres in size, with a 251 metre tall hill and dormant volcano, Arthurs Seat, as its core feature, which was described by Robert Louis Stevenson as “a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design”. Arthurs Seat, if you’re brave enough to climb it, provides an excellent panoramic view over the city. The New Town contrasts the Old Town with elegance and grandeur. Here you’ll see plenty of Georgian architecture; a variety of perfectly preserved buildings from the 18th and 19th century. In Charlotte Square, you will find the Georgian House, which is an exquisite example of ‘how the other half lived’ in the 18th century - open from March to November. Edinburgh’s museums and galleries all tell the story of Scotland’s and the city’s heritage and rich artistic past, present and future. The National Portrait Gallery exhibits some of the most magnificent paintings and photographs of a selection of Scotland’s most iconic figures, for example, Mary Queen of Scots and Sean Connery. The centrepiece of the city, Edinburgh Castle dominates the skyline with its opulence. The castle is home to Scotland’s crown jewels and the Stone of Destiny, dates back to 850 BC and is the most popular tourist destination in Edinburgh. Visit in the late morning or at midday to make OCEAN VIEW 35
Photo bygreenzowie ©
the most of experiencing the one o’clock gunfire from the castle walls. The gardens below the castle, on Prince’s Street, are a lovely place to have a stroll in, and perhaps also have a picnic if it’s good weather. An exciting attraction also nearby the castle is the Camera Obscura, World of Illusions with five floors packed with optical illusions and perception manipulations. Edinburgh is the world’s leading festival city, with 12 major annual festivals bringing talents from more than a third of the world’s countries to the Scottish city’s streets and stages. Edinburgh Fringe is the world’s largest arts festival, running for three weeks from 7th till 31st August. This is an ideal time to visit Edinburgh, as long as you don’t mind the crowds, as it oozes cultural diversity, creative spirit and the essence of Edinburgh as a whole. The stages and tents all over the city show a huge range of entertainment such as comedy, theatre, dance, singing, circus, operas, musicals, exhibitions, cabaret and 36 OCEAN VIEW
children’s shows. Performers - big and small - and well-known and unknown names pining to build their career, all congregate at this festival. In 2014, there were 49,497 performances in 299 venues, making it the largest arts festival in the world. This year, Edinburgh Fringe 2015 will see 50,459 performances of 3,314 shows from 49 countries in 313 venues across the city. The festival itself began in 1947 with eight theatre groups who turned up to perform at the International Festival in order to enrich European cultural life in the wake of World War II. Year-on-year more and more performers followed their example and in 1958 the Festival Fringe Society was created in response to the success of this growing trend. However, other festivals are also packed into the summer in this city, including the likes of the Edinburgh International Film Festival, the Jazz & Blues Festival, Edinburgh Art Festival, Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, the International Book Festival, and the International Festival.
Festival dates for 2015 to keep in mind: Edinburgh Art Festival: 30th July – 30th August Edinburgh Fringe Festival & Edinburgh International Festival: 7th - 31st August Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo: 7th - 29th August Edinburgh International Book Festival: 15th – 31st August Edinburgh Mela: 29th – 30th August Scottish International Storytelling Festival: 23rd October – 1st November
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America’s Cup in Bermuda Book a luxury getaway with Prestige Holidays to one of the most luxurious destinations in the world
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Some 600 miles from the coast of the USA and some 1000 miles north from the more frenetic tempo of the Caribbean lies Bermuda, Britain’s oldest colony, where British charm meets island soul. The 150 small islands, only 21 miles long - the largest joined by causeways and bridges - make up this perfectly polished, serenely beautiful and colourful sub-tropical garden paradise. The islands are encircled by delightful coves, inlets and beaches of pink coral sand all lapped by the clear blue waters of the Atlantic. White washed roofs top delightful pastel painted homes all with well-kept gardens prolific with hibiscus, oleander and bougainvillea. Bermuda is only seven hours away but a world apart. Perhaps it’s the unhurried pace of life in the most beautiful and affluent surroundings. Maybe, it is the pink coral sand beaches which line every shore, but there is also a timeless tradition to Bermuda, with so much to fill each day. 38 OCEAN VIEW
It is an island designed for simple pleasures like an early morning swim followed by breakfast back in the privacy of your room or a stroll along one of the many stunning shoreline paths. It’s also an island rich with simple luxuries to suit every taste – from an exhilarating round of golf, to almost every imaginable activity on and under the sea, a candlelit massage in the spa, or a sumptuous private dinner on the beach. So whether you’re looking for a romantic hideaway, a honeymoon hotel, an All-Inclusive or golf resort – Bermuda has something to offer everyone. Prestige Holidays is the specialist to Bermuda – there is no-one more qualified to arrange your perfect holiday. Even more exciting, Bermuda will host the America’s Cup in June 2017. The best sailors in the world will convene in Bermuda for the 35th America’s Cup. The pinnacle of international sailing, the
America’s Cup has generated intense excitement––and fierce rivalries––for more than 160 years. Now, for the first time, this premier event will take place in Bermuda, an island founded on a legacy of sailing. The drama will unfold in Bermuda’s Great Sound, a magnificent natural amphitheatre set amid a spectacular backdrop of islands and beaches. With a new Louis Vuitton America’s Cup village to be built in the South Basin of the Royal Naval Dockyard, the Island will offer an unmatched experience for sailing teams and spectators from around the world. Bermuda will also host the Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series race event on 15th - 18th October, 2015. The World Series is the first stage of competition when all of the America’s Cup teams compete hoping to earn points that will advance them to the finals in 2017. So let Prestige Holidays book your beautiful getaway to Bermuda this autumn.
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BEAUTIFUL BERMUDA
Bermuda has it all Sun, Sea and Sand! It’s a great time to book with so many excellent offers - for the rest of the year. Prices start from as little as £1324 per person for 7 nights at Grotto Bay, saving £277 per couple, at this wonderful hotel. Why not fly home Club World from as little as £1334 per person one-way. Add a few nights in New York, Boston or Toronto, we can easily arrange that too!
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Thailand At Its Best Jenny Ardagh shares her key city and island experiences in South East Asia’s gem, Thailand
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When you think of paradise, what springs to your mind? For me, it was a long, sandy beach, secluded in a bay embraced by rainforest covered mountains and the subtle yet powerful sound of cascading waterfalls in the distance. Perhaps your imagination doesn’t get quite so carried away with poetic license, but the idea is simple: Thailand is practically heaven on earth for anyone wanting sun, sea and sand. If you thought it wouldn’t get better, then think again – Thailand is also a country absolutely packed with culture. As with any country, travelling through Thailand, especially from North to South, will provide you with a hugely contrasted view in terms of lifestyle and landscape. I was the typical graduate. I hadn’t had a ‘gap year’ to boast about through university, and had thought of it as something I could live without, until I stepped into the real world and wanted to retreat. My friend and I decided to book ourselves onto a monthlong discovery tour of Indochina, including Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam as well as Thailand.
The Cities Bangkok Bangkok was our beginning and end stop, and I honestly never thought I could go from hating to loving a city so quickly, whilst not even being in it. Bangkok is a city that defines ‘bustle’. The claim that ‘it was busy’ doesn’t even scrape the surface with this Asian hub, and when you step out onto the streets, you really must be prepared. On our first day, it took us half an hour just to cross the road to get some water from the local shop; we ended up walking a bit uncomfortably close to a local pedestrian in order to make it across in one piece. The best advice is to just embrace it, which is something I had to learn to do myself, and I’m sure is the key to why I eventually changed my mind about Bangkok. After a month of travelling, you naturally embrace it, and thus the love comes naturally too. OCEAN VIEW 41
“The best way of travelling is by Tuc Tuc – anywhere in Thailand really, but especially in Bangkok – and you can usually get for a very good price”
In Bangkok itself, there is plenty to see and do, but it’s best to know exactly where you’re heading at all times; this is not a place to aimlessly wander. The biggest scare most people have before embarking on a trip to South East Asia is about getting food poisoning or about the water – as I did also – but let me reassure you that, whilst the risk is there, the water facilities are plenty. As long as you make sure the water bottle you buy is properly secured with a plastic cap, 42 OCEAN VIEW
avoid any ice you’re unsure of, and don’t drink out of the tap, you will be absolutely fine. You will need plenty of water; so don’t be too fussy with it. In terms of food, if you like Thai curry, you’ll never go amiss. My friend and I were advised that certain meats may not be good for us to eat, that street food would be better than restaurants because it’s all freshly prepared. However – once again – these worries seemed to be based on very little. Restaurants were divine, locals were lovely (except for the odd one or two) and the smell was… well, alright, I can’t lie about the smell; it was bad! When visiting the main temple complex and attraction in Bangkok, the Grand Palace listen to no one who tells you it’s closed. On various occasions locals telling me the temple was closed due to Buddhist rituals, or refurbishment led me astray. Take what you’re told with a pinch of salt. I never worked out why I was told this, or the reasoning behind the lie, but nevertheless it would be a frustration to not go to the temple simply due to those mysterious motives. Once you get to the Grand Palace, you will see all its beauty and be glad you made it there. There is only one word
to describe it really, which is: gold. The shimmering grandeur hits you immediately when you step into the complex, which takes you around various different religious buildings, all celebrating Buddha. The detail is incredible in temples all across Thailand, but especially this one. Within the walls, you will find tiny Buddha figures – thousands of them in man-made holes, distributed every 3 to 4 inches. The best way of travelling is by Tuc Tuc – anywhere in Thailand really, but especially in Bangkok – and you can usually get for a very good price (200 baht, i.e. the equivalent of £3) as long as you barter. However, I also discovered travelling by boat. This is not necessarily more civilized, but it’s a fantastic way of giving you a glimpse of Bangkok by the river, and some of the views are far improved from this angle than on the streets. If you fancy a bite to eat in a relaxing and decadent atmosphere whilst looking out over the river itself, I recommend going to the Arun Residence restaurant on Maharat Road, Rattanakosin Island. Sitting just opposite, you can admire the Temple of Dawn – a very impressive, almost Eiffel Tower like temple. Not only is the view
spectacular, but also the food is to die for and still very cheap. Chiang Mai My stop off in Chiang Mai was for two reasons: to go to the Tiger Kingdom, and to see a Ladyboys show. I will not dwell on the latter except to say that it was genuinely very entertaining, and I feel a must if you’re in the country. It’s certainly not sleezy in any way, it’s in fact quite a classy and well-rounded performance from thoroughly impressive ‘men’ or, as they looked, works of art. Chiang Mai itself is a city filled with sightseeing potential. Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai’s most revered temple, draws sightseers for its resident Buddha and its classic Lanna art and architecture. Do remember that with all temples and places of worship, you must wear modest clothing, covering your knees and shoulders. This temple hosts a famous image of the Lion Buddha, Phra Singh. The three-tiered roof and carved gables, as well as the gold-stencilled murals inside are stunning additions to an already lovely temple. Tiger attractions, such as the infamous Tiger Temple have developed a bad reputation for drugging their tigers and generally treating them cruelly. My friend and I were apprehensive to say the least, but we were more than put at ease when we met the trainers, the keepers and experienced it for ourselves. Tiger Temple gives you the chance to get completely up close and personal with tigers of all ages. There are packages to choose from, where you can either choose to snuggle with infants, young adults or adults, or all three! As you step into the enclosure with these animals, you suddenly realise that it may be a silly idea, especially when seeing their huge muscles and large jaws lined with teeth. However, you never feel unsafe with the keepers there, who keep their tigers – whom they know like the back of their hand – very well behaved with just a bamboo stick, which they follow with their noses. I would recommend this experience, especially if you have children with you.
The Islands Anyone who has read The Beach by Alex Garland, or watched the Danny Boyle film will closely know what I mean when I describe the idyllic scene that stood in front of me when I reached the shores of the islands of Thailand. Funnily enough, I had seen the film, and read the book whilst out there, and I had previously not believed that what Leonardo Dicaprio, or Richard (as his character is called) was describing could even nearly exist. I realised, as I wandered onto the every
beach I came across on the islands of south Thailand, that I was wrong. Koh Tao Koh Tao is on the opposite side of Thailand to Koh Phi Phi, the Eastern side along with other major tourist destination islands such as Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngang. This was my favourite island by far, as it oozed life in all senses. This is an island that’s famous for its diving, so I just had to see what all the fuss was about! As I was staying in a hostel called Asia Diving Resort, it wasn’t difficult for me to find the OCEAN VIEW 43
means of exploring the island’s waters. I was taken out on a boat with 3 or 4 other people who, despite doing the same as me, were much more experienced. I was lucky enough to get an instructor all to myself who talked me through all that I needed to know about diving before I jumped in and had a go. I was sure, as I was about to take my first dive that this was a far more liberal process than anywhere else, but I was glad of that. I first went to 6 metres, breathing slowly, making my way across the seabed and gesturing that I was ‘ok’ all the way. My second dive took me to 12 metres, which was just incredible – the amount I saw was more than I had imagined, and the experience of being able to breath underwater was magical. Koh Tao, as you would have guessed, is brilliant for snorkelling also. Some beaches allow you to literally wander from the beach into a cove of fish, sea cucumber colonies and clusters of vivid plant life swaying in the current. There’s no need to go too deep either, so it’s a fantastic place to test your sea legs. 44 OCEAN VIEW
If you are a fan of brilliant views, then this is also the island to go to. It hosts dramatic hills which, if you can cope with the climb in the Asian heat, present a view that cannot be replicated elsewhere. The Suwan Mountain viewpoint is an example of a perfect place to see the very impressive scenery of Chalok Baan Kao Bay and Thian Og Bay. The viewpoint is located on a mountain ridge, at Chalok Baan Kao beach to the south of the island. It takes about 15 minutes of moderate trek over a distance of about 400 meters to reach the viewpoint, but it’s worth it for the sweeping view of the bays, and even some other islands on a clear day. The night-time is just as exciting on the island. Sairee Beach is where most of the night-time entertainment occurs. It is lined with bars; some, with live bands and others with some of the best DJs on the planet will make your rib cage vibrate. Just strolling up and down the beach will keep you entertained, but I found The Deck bar to be the perfect place to sip a cocktail and
enjoy the spectacle in front of you. Here, you can sit and listen to a mix of music whilst sitting on beanbags on the sand, and watch the nightly fire shows that occur. Fire throwers, jugglers, rope skippers and all spectators are thrown together in a celebration, which you’ll wish could go on forever. Join in and skip the fiery skipping rope, or just sit and squirm when the Thai boys spin the fire above your head. Koh Samui Ko Samui, one of the largest islands in the Gulf of Thailand, is known for its palm-fringed beaches circling coconut groves and dense, mountainous rainforest. Although it’s an attractive destination for backpackers, such as me, it’s also home to numerous luxury resorts, which I made the most of whilst there myself. My friend and I stayed in possibly the most luxurious hotel I have ever stayed in – a 5 star wonder called Peace Resort on the north side of the island for the equivalent of just £15 per person per night. We couldn’t
believe our eyes when we stepped into our room; a beautiful, and very large luxury suite with a bed the size of three singles enclosed in a glass frame, with a balcony overlooking the palm trees just shading the view of the beach, and a bath the size of most people’s cars. Staying here, it would be difficult to drag yourself away from the room let alone the pool side, but Koh Samui has a lot to see. Samui’s most popular attraction, The ‘Big Buddha’, sits 15 meters tall and is a monumental landmark on the islands north coast. Nearby, a new temple, Wat Plai Laem, features an enormous 18-armed Buddha, so you have a plethora of chances to see what all the fuss is about, and learn about the peaceful and intriguing religion that is Buddhism. Grandpa and Grandma Rocks (or locally known as ‘Hin Ta and Hin Yai’) are natural rock formations that raise indulgent chuckles from those who go to see them. Namuang waterfall and Nathon town are just some other examples of the places you can visit too. If you have yet to do a cooking class, this is a must in Thailand, and on the island of Koh Samui, they certainly won’t spare any ingredient. Koh Samui also boasts a number of waterfalls, one of which is the tallest on the island at 30 metres, lying in the centre of the island with the water cascading over purple rocks. The two other waterfalls in the vicinity: a smaller waterfall called Na Muang, and the high drop at Nam Tok Wang Saotong, are just north of the ring road near Ban Hua Thanon. A day trip is also a great idea from Samui, as just a short boat ride away lies Ang Thon Marine National Park – said to be one of the most beautiful islands in Thailand by some. It’s completely uninhabited, featuring sheer limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons and peach coloured sands. This island was the inspiration behind ‘The Beach’, so it was a shame that I didn’t have the opportunity to go there myself, but if you are planning on doing it, February to April are the best months and it’s almost always closed during November and December. OCEAN VIEW 45
Editor’s Top Picks: The World’s Best Views
A compilation of some of the greatest views across the globe to add to your own bucket list
The Amalfi Coastline, Italy In the Province of Salerno in southern Italy, the coastline provides a panoramic view of the Mediterranean in all its glory. Its intricate shape means that no two views are quite the same.
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Bangkok Skyline at night, Thailand Head up to the Sky Bar, one of the highest rooftop bars in the world, suspended over 820 feet in the air over Bangkok. No matter what your experience of it during the day, the cityscape at night is mesmerising.
The Grand Canyon, Arizona The absolute vastness of the Grand Canyon is difficult to wrap your head around, and seeing it for yourself will have you utterly boggled.
The Caribbean sunset Anywhere in the Caribbean is an idyllic spot to just sit and watch the sun retreat behind the horizon. Throughout the year, it is a spectacle to be marvelled at, and if you look closely enough you might even see the green flash before the sun disappears.
The Top of Machu Picchu, Peru This Incan citadel is set high in the Andes Mountains OCEAN VIEW above 47 the Urubamba River valley, providing a stunning vista of mountains, clouds and forgotten settlements.
The Sistine Chapel ceiling, Vatican City The official residence of the Pope is, as it’s to be expected, filled with grandeur and elegance. But the pinnacle is the astounding work of High Renaissance art by Michelangelo that hovers over ogling tourists in the Sistine Chapel.
The Northern Lights Aurora Borealis: a sight that not many can claim to have seen, but those who do never forget it. Catch this wonder of the World in places such as Iceland, Greenland, Norway or even Scotland or the north of England on occasion.
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Iguazu Falls, Argentina/Brazil border Iguazu Falls is a collection of some of the world’s largest waterfalls, with 275 drops at heights of up to 82 metres. The sheer power of the water, mixed with the beauty of the rainbows that are formed are easily a sight to top the World’s best views.
The “Perched” Villages of the Var Barrie Mason introduces the stunning coastal towns and villages of the South of France In January 2014, the French government announced the reorganisation of the separate administrative regions of France, reducing the number of regions from 22 to 13. The reason for this reorganisation was primarily to reduce costs, but also to give similar population numbers to the various regions. Each region contains several départements. One of these is the Var department in southeast France, which
provides a tropical Mediterranean climate and a perfect mix of urban and rural. The two regions that border the
that make up P.A.C.A. are Alpes-de-HauteProvence, Alpes Maritimes, Bouches du Rhône, Hautes-Alpes, the Vaucluse and the Var. The well-known towns of Nice and Cannes are in the Alpes Maritimes, while the popular holiday towns of St. Tropez, Ste. Maxime and St. Raphael are in the Var. Cruise liners touring around the Mediterranean often arrive in these towns, or moor as close as possible, in order that the passengers may visit them. St. Tropez oozes charm, glamour and
“St. Tropez oozes charm, glamour and sophistication, and as such as a hot spot for Hollywood celebrities” Mediterranean are P.A.C.A (Provence, Alpes, Cotes d’Azur) and Midi-PyrénéesLanguedoc-Rousillon. The départements
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sophistication, and, as such, is a hot spot for Hollywood celebrities. Along the harbour, visitors see no shortage of expensive yachts just waiting to be admired by the wanting passersby. As you retreat up into the narrow streets and back alleys of the town, however, you will see a different side, with terracotta and pastel houses lining the way up to the 16th Century Citadel. The more time you spend wandering through the streets and admiring the seafront, the better you’ll see St. Tropez for what it traditionally is, a fishing village. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, head to Place des Lices and enjoy the market. Within an hour or two of the Var coastline, however, you’ll find some 50 OCEAN VIEW
lovely, quaint villages, known locally as the villages perchés du Var’. These villages are often at the summit of local hills or halfway up the hillside, giving magnificent views of the surrounding countryside and the sea. Easily attainable by car and, given enough time, by local buses, the villages allow the opportunity for you to follow marked walking tracks detailed in brochures issued by the village tourist offices. Hill walking in this area is a pursuit followed avidly by local inhabitants and visiting holidaymakers, and gives not only the pleasure of making acquaintance with the local countryside but also a break, perhaps, from the bog standard tourist destinations and experiences. Visiting the villages is a pleasure in itself since most date from medieval times and the individual
communities try to maintain the appearance and ambience loved by their inhabitants. Much enjoyment can be experienced from sitting with a cool drink in a shady village square under the brilliant blue sky of the south of France after a walk in the sunshine enlivened by the loud noise coming from the cicadas. It is interesting to note that many who visit here are often seen looking into estate agents’ windows before they return to the UK. This area is certainly attractive to foreigners, and those who already live here rarely want to move away. Almost every night during the summer season, there is some activity to be found in the villages of the Var, including wine festivals, classical concerts and jazz concerts held in local vineyards. Bandol is
a popular coastal town and wine-growing region just west of the Capital of the Var, Toulon, in the Cote d’Azure. As well as being a major wine growing region, it is also host to a vibrant harbour that accommodates over 1500 boats of all shapes and sizes. So, like St. Tropez, it is the ideal place to stop off during a boat trip, to enjoy harbour-side restaurants and the casino. Whether you are visiting the area during a cruise or thinking of going there for a holiday, you will not be disappointed. And, with the strength of the pound against the euro, and acclimatisation to the beautiful weather, you may finish your trip as the new owner of a Var property! OCEAN VIEW 51
Rent a holiday home Lake Como Homes offer stunning lakeside properties for a relaxing Italian retreat Lake Como Homes, a successful holiday home rental business, offers a wonderful collection of properties including lakeside villas and luxury apartments with stunning views. Our holiday home experts will help you choose the perfect property by working closely with owners and guests to offer a range of locations and homes that match your budget. Whether you’re thinking of a romantic break, a family holiday, a short break or even an extended stay; with over 15 years experience in holiday rental business and with over 740 apartments, houses, rustico’s & villas on Lake Como, Lake Maggiore, Lake Como & Lake Garda; we can offer the ideal holiday home for you. Lake Como, in the northern Lombardy region of Italy, offers beauty, glamour, a relaxing atmosphere and historical villages and towns in the surrounding areas. It is an idyllic place for swimming, with powerboat rental & mooring facilities and chartered yacht hire plus many concierge services. 52 OCEAN VIEW
The advantage of Lake Como is its accessibility by air, train and road. It is still a hidden gem, close to the Swiss border, but those who know it become entranced by its beauty, returning year after year. Although the swimming may not be as tempting in the winter months, this is still a perfect time to visit with crisp blue skies, snow-flurried Alps and Valtellina peaks rising majestically up from the lake. Skiing locally is also possible and can add to the winter experience. Spring & early summer on Lake Como however, is a bonanza of vivid azalea colours, blossoming triumphantly on every balcony and over every lakeside balustrade. This is the perfect time to enjoy the beautiful botanical gardens of Villa Carlotta, Villa Balbianello, Villa Monastero & Villa Cipressi to name a few. If you’re feeling energetic, a woodland hike up to the romantic 7th century Castello di Vezio, is well worth it, especially for the falconry! The town of Varenna is believed to be one
of the most beautiful on the lake. It has been historically preserved by generations of Italian families who have cherished their enviable location for centuries. It is an ancient fishing village with around 1000 residents; their homes spread along the hillsides overlooking Lake Como. This is one of the four towns that share the collective name, ‘The Golden Triangle’. The others being the beautiful towns of Bellagio, Menaggio & Cadenabbia, which are the only destinations where the larger car & passenger ferries embark. Our local company Happy Holiday Homes, manage the properties, contract owners, offer a 24 hour local callout service, have secure payment systems and offer a multi-lingual team in their offices on the lake. Happy Holiday Homes Sagl. is a Lugano based company with affiliated management offices in Menaggio on Lake Como also. Our extensive portfolio of holiday rental homes may be viewed on www.lakecomohomes.com
LAKE COMO
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Your Stories: Egyptian Sun Serving as an interface between Africa and the Middle East, and just a 5-hour flight away, Egypt is a culturally diverse, idyllic holiday destination. The country covers an area exceeding one million square kilometers, bordering the Mediterranean Sea, the Gaza Strip, the Red Sea, Sudan and Libya. The primary language spoken is Arabic and the most highly practiced religion is Islam. Over the years, Egypt has attracted millions of visitors to its white-sand beaches, crystal clear seas and regions that are effortlessly rich in culture. Visit Egypt and you will be overwhelmed with options; you can hire a bike and cycle along the 54 OCEAN VIEW
picturesque coastline, spend some time looking back at the ancient history of the complex country, or simply take to a beach bed and absorb some well-deserved sun. It may be due to the presence of the Nile River, a 6,670km long waterbody ending in a 160km long delta, that such rich and extensive history has evolved in this country. The fertile banks can be sited as the source of attraction for ancient residents of the region. The annual flooding of the delta allowed for natural fertilisation of agricultural produce, thus forging optimal conditions for this industry until the construction of the Aswan Dam in 1970, which ceased further annual flooding. Whilst
Flo Hardy tells OV Travel about the wonders of Egypt the flow of water through the delta has been reduced since the dam construction, causing the swamp areas to largely disappear, the region has remained one of the world’s most important routes for bird migration. A Nile River Tour could uncover a fraction of the millions of birds that pass through from Europe to Africa each year. The species include, but are by no means limited to, the White Stork, the European Crane, the White Pelican, and the Lesser Spotted Eagle. Arguably, the feature that Egypt is most renowned for is its naturally breathtaking Red Sea, which is the home of numerous coral reefs and attracts flocks of diving enthusiasts each year. The most common
YOUR STORIES: EGYPT reef, found on the Red Sea coastline is the fringing reef system; these platforms exceed 5,000 years in age and extend along 2,000 kilometres of shoreline. What distinguishes the Egyptian coral reefs from other ocean reefs? Perhaps it is the water clarity, attributed to the minimal river discharge and low rainfall, which reduce the effect of suspension of fine material that may restrict visibility for divers at other locations. Sharm-el-Sheikh, situated in the southern tip of the Sinai, is a highly acclaimed diving destination. The Red Sea holds over 1,200 different species of fish, of which more than 200 are endemic. Therefore, if the turquoise water and more-than-agreeable temperatures weren’t enough to tempt you into the sea, the marine diversity might succeed at doing so. Nightlife in Sharm is something not to miss. Naama Bay is a magnet for tourist antics with it’s authentic bazaars, traditional stalls and copious bars that serve cocktails and provide entertainment, including performances of traditional dances by locals. You are, of course, not limited to bars and clubs for your evening activities; you could also take a stroll down the promenade and take a peak at other hotels, or admire the beach at sunset. Sharm-el-Sheikh has an abundance of hotels and resorts that offer bountiful activities designed to expose the true beauty and dynamic culture of Egypt. One trip that should not be missed is camel riding through the desert - the stargazing trip at nighttime is especially worthwhile. You are led across the sand by tour guides, disembarking for a supper in which you can enjoy a variety of traditional Bedouin cuisine and even try your hand at cooking a dish yourself. Shisha pipes may also be available for you to entertain yourself with while the details of various constellations and their meanings are explained to you. The local children will play around you as you are immersed in traditional delicacies and pastimes. The largest city in the Middle East, and Egypt’s cultural and political centre, Cairo
is a focal point of Ancient Egyptian history due to its strategic positioning, upstream of the Nile Delta. It was a major contributor to Egypt’s seven-digit tourist count in 2010. Relics from the Pharaohs, the Greeks, the Babylonians and the Romans can be found here. The blue skies and soft clouds cradle the dramatic pyramids, which are cause for admiration among the architectural community. There are countless temples scattered along the banks of the Nile, which can offer you yet another flavour of Egyptian heritage. Finally, a trip to visit
Tutankhamun’s tomb will be one thing you can tick off your bucket list. From Cairo to camels, coral reefs to constellations, the opportunities for exploration in this hospitable and unspoiled country are endless. Whether you go for five days or a fortnight, you will definitely feel the restoring benefits of experiencing the refreshingly traditional culture of Egypt. If you have a travel story you would like to share or would like to get involved, please email jenny@ovtravel.co OCEAN VIEW 55
BOOK EXTRACT
Ultimate Classic Yachts
We pick our favourite yacht from the new book from Bloomsbury Publishing: ‘Ultimate Classic Yachts: 20 of the world’s most beautiful classic yachts’
Stormy Weather (1934) Sailing With Olin It was the end of three days of racing and a small crowd was gathered on the quayside of the small town of Porto Santo Stefano, on the west coast of Italy. The judges read out the names of the winners, and the crowd applauded with varying degrees of enthusiasm, depending on the boat’s popularity, the size of its crew, and the volubility of its supporters. Mariette, Outlaw, Wild Horses and Cerida all received a good response. Then the winner of the Vintage Bermudan Yachts Over 15m was announced, and a frail old man walked unsteadily to the front. Suddenly, the crowd exploded: people cheered and clapped, cameras flashed, and even the judges wore broad smiles. The celebrated American designer Olin Stephens, from the worldfamous Sparkman & Stephens company, was collecting first prize for his 1934 design Stormy Weather, and there was no doubt who was the most popular prizewinner on the quayside that evening. Similar scenes took place throughout the regatta. Wherever Olin went, people lined up to talk to him and ask for his autograph. Several decades after designing his last winning America’s Cup yacht (the last in a six-boat winning streak), Olin had acquired a new and unexpected following on the Mediterranean classic yacht circuit. And nowhere more so than Porto Santo Stefano, where several of his yachts had 56 OCEAN VIEW
been restored to pristine condition. After attending the relaunch of Dorade in 1997, the dignified American gent with the crackly voice became a regular visitor to the Tuscan town, and won over everyone with his gentle clarity. By then in his mid-90s, he received the kind of recognition that all too many great people receive only after they die. But why Italy? And why then? ‘The Italians have a great appreciation of classic yachts,’ Olin explained. ‘I think the speed of change in society means we try to find stability in grasping things that have not changed: old cars, old houses and buildings, old furniture, and so forth. Sailors who enjoy the sea for what it is – the deep pleasure of the wide horizons and the blue water – relate to boats of the period when that was not so much sacrificed for racing.’ The focus for much of this resurgence of interest in classics was the Cantiere Navale dell’ Argentario (CNA) in Porto Santo Stefano. Although established straight after the Second World War, in the mid1990s the yard developed a reputation for restoring classic yachts, thanks to a string of highprofile restorations of designs by many of the world’s ‘greats’, including Olin Stephens, Nat Herreshoff, Charles Nicholson, Laurent Giles and Christian Jensen. Stormy Weather was the cantiere’s third Sparkman & Stephens restoration, after Olin’s first major design, Dorade, and his 12-Metre Nyala. Although she had no prior links with Italy, ‘Stormy’ (as she’s know to her friends) was
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BOOK EXTRACT
too narrowgutted). Federico Nardi, CNA’s welcomed like a prodigal daughter who had managing director, knew Stormy Weather finally come home. was for sale but considered the asking price Stormy Weather came to fame in 1935 too high. ‘It was going to cost too much to when, a year after her launch, she won restore her,’ he said. ‘It didn’t make sense.’ the Newport to Bergen Transatlantic Race Instead, he suggested her sister ship, the followed by the Fastnet Race of the same lesser known and therefore much cheaper year (see panel, page 83). Her success, Sonny, then for sale in Maine. combined with that of Dorade four years It was indicative of the earlier, established prestige attached to classic Olin’s reputation as a “I think of Stormy as yachts in Italy, particularly designer and cemented the the better of those those with a special burgeoning company of two early successes, pedigree, that Dorade’s Sparkman & Stephens (aka and she is a favourite owner stuck to his guns S&S). The 53-foot (16.4-metre) in that sense – and as a and was willing to pay over the odds for the yawl was still winning good well-balanced cachet of owning the real races in the mid1950s and design and nice fair hull” thing. Stormy Weather was took part in the Fastnet duly bought and shipped to Race again in the 1990s. Porto Santo Stefano. By then she was owned by Although in poor the former yacht broker Paul Adamthwaite, condition, the yacht was sufficiently sound who cruised her extensively before putting to sail in the 1999 Argentario Regatta, her to pasture in Canada. coming first in class, ahead of the newly The histories of the two famous S&S restored Dorade – which, bearing in designs crossed again when the owner mind Stormy Weather was designed as an of the newly restored Dorade decided he improvement of Dorade, seemed a fitting needed something a little larger (a big man, result. he wasn’t the first to find the yacht a little 58 OCEAN VIEW
But, while the histories of the yachts might have reconverged, life during the intervening years had treated them very differently. Whereas Dorade arrived at CNA needing little more than a major refit, Stormy Weather required a 50 per cent rebuild. Not only that, but most of what was there was not original anyway, so there was little incentive to preserve the old timber, as had been done with Dorade and other more unadulterated yachts. As a result, there was very little left of the original Stormy Weather, apart from some of the underwater hull and most of the interior. ‘Wherever we could, we kept the original,’ said skipper Giles McLoughlin. ‘But that wasn’t always practical.’ Relaunch day was party day at the cantiere, as the spars workshop was converted into a kitchen, and bandsaws were turned into serving tables. Invites had been sent around the world, and the world’s media descended on the small harbour tucked at the foot of the Tuscany hills. Well, not quite, but yours truly and a host of Italian photographers were there. The guest of honour was, of course, Olin Stephens, fresh from a
BOOK EXTRACT
symposium in his name at the Mystic Seaport maritime museum in Connecticut, USA. Also present were America’s Cup designer Doug Peterson and Argentinian designer Germán Frers, who both owned classic yachts restored at the yard. Over a spumante and several goat’s cheese bruschettas, I asked the great man the inevitable question. Was Stormy Weather still his favourite design, as had oft been reported? ‘I think of Stormy as the better of those two early successes, and she is a favourite in that sense – and as a good well-balanced design and nice fair hull,’ he answered diplomatically, no doubt aware that his answer could well influence the resale price of either boat by several percentage points. ‘But I prefer not to say the favourite, which would exclude later boats, such as Intrepid and Running Tide, which have claims too.’ In fact, Stormy Weather was barely ready in time for the relaunch. The coach roof had only one coat of white paint, and much of the interior was only semi-complete and roughly varnished. Unlike the Laurent Giles sloop Cerida and the 12-Metre Nyala, which both had immaculate new interiors built when they were restored by CNA, Stormy Weather retained much of her old joinery, and there were signs of patching and filling. But such is the price of originality. You have to choose between imperfect but authentic old wood, and pristine but unauthentic new wood – you can’t have it both ways. All eyes were on Stormy for her first appearance at the Argentario Sailing Week. Olin was on board for every race, not necessarily helming but sitting at his vigil in the cockpit. I joined them for the last day of racing, and while Olin and I waited for the crew to assemble, I asked how it felt to be on board after all those years. ‘The sail balance is good,’ he replied, ‘but [when she comes about] she seems to want to carry on swinging, which I don’t remember her doing before. No one else has noticed it, though, so maybe it’s just me!’ He also commented that some fittings are missing which were not on the original
drawings but were added while the yacht was being built – in particular, a turning block for the jib sheets, which after the relaunch ran straight from the sail track to the winch. The boat looked immaculate on deck – not surprisingly, as all the woodwork apart from the mast was new and had been stained an even, rich, reddy-brown colour. Most of the fittings were new too, and those that weren’t had been chromed at the owner’s request to match the new ones. All in all, she looked a bit like a brandnew boat, and I couldn’t resist asking Olin if she still felt like she did before. ‘Oh yes, she’s the same boat alright,’ he answered. ‘I didn’t sail on board Stormy as much as I did on Dorade, so I didn’t get to know her as well. But apart from the steering thing, she’s as I remember her.’ Skipper Giles McLoughlin, the only paid hand on board, had assembled an international crew for the regatta, including an Italian afterguard who chattered non-
stop about tactics. Sandro Berti Ceroni, apparently a close friend of the owner, was on the helm and called out his commands in a deep-throated voice that made Marlon Brando’s Godfather sound like a choirboy. (When I asked him later where he got his voice from, he answered simply: ‘Cigarettes!’).
Ultimate Classic Yachts: 20 of the World’s Most Beautiful Classic Yachts by Nic Compton. Published by Bloomsbury. RRP £30.
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Top Tips: Making the most of your August bank holiday Unsure of what to do for the upcoming bank holiday weekend? Here are some suggestions on how to make the most of it
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Discover somewhere new Take the plunge and book a weekend away to somewhere you haven’t been before, whether that’s a city you’ve been wanting to go to for years, an area of outstanding natural beauty or just the town down the road you’ve never managed to fully explore.
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Avoid the crowds This might be easier said than done, but there are ways to avoid the multitude of people wanting to also make the most of the bank holiday. If your usual bank holiday weekend experience is more manic than relaxing, spending most of the weekend getting from one place to another,
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“Plan your journey ahead of time and choose an end destination where you can simply enjoy the extra time you have” losing people in a crowd, and worst of all, sitting in traffic, then think of something a bit more out of the ordinary. The best way to travel may well still be by car, with train prices high and carriages packed. However, take a different route to everyone else: use the back roads. Plan your journey ahead of time and choose an end destination where you can simply enjoy the extra time you have either to yourself or with your friends and family.
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Book well ahead of time It’s always a lovely idea to go somewhere for the day or the whole weekend. Whether it’s staying in a hotel, OCEAN VIEW 61
“Head to the south of France for a long weekend, to Costa del Sol for a short beach break” eating lunch in that place you’ve always wanted to eat, or embarking on a family activity, book it ahead of time to make sure you avoid disappointment. If you are catching the train anywhere, especially book these tickets in advance. It often makes a huge difference in terms of price and your peace of mind. Escape to a better climate The biggest reason that Brits are left undecided as to how to fill their bank holiday weekend is that they are waiting to see what the weather is like. This was the case for 35% of people before the Easter Bank Holiday this year and 34% this time last year according to a Visit England survey. So, why not go somewhere you’re more likely to guarantee good weather? Head to the south of France for a long weekend, to Costa del Sol for a short beach break, find a water park somewhere warm for the children, or even go somewhere slightly further afield – if you can fit it in!
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Enjoy the great outdoors The whole of the population of England’s fingers are crossed for sunshine and warm weather. However, even if the weather isn’t quite as we had hoped, you can still enjoy being outside. Pull the children away from their computer screens, the television and their smartphones and take to the outdoors to get some fresh air. Take a picnic to a quiet spot, perhaps in the countryside or by a river – even in your back garden! Take a boat trip, adventure in the forest, go to the beach or have your
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own treasure hunt. Geocaching is a fantastic way to spend some time outdoors, and it costs nothing – just sign up and join the world’s largest treasure hunt: https://www. geocaching.com/play Go to a Festival There are plenty of exciting festivals going on throughout the UK. Search online for ones that are close by, or aim to travel to one that’s a little further away. Liverpool International Music Festival is on throughout August, as is Edinburgh Fringe. 3 Chords Festival is being held in Cornwall this year over the bank holiday weekend, as is Walesby Forest Festival in Sherwood Forest, Nottinghamshire. Plus there are plenty of things going on in the capital, London, including the famous Notting Hill Carnival, taking place on 30th and 31st August.
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See a film Now this may sound like a fairly
standard idea, but it depends on how and where you see it. There are a number of ‘pop-up’ or outdoor cinema screenings across the country. During August and September, Brighton is playing host to a beachfront, outdoor cinema experience called Brighton’s Big Screen. On the bank holiday weekend, it will be playing films such as Top Gun, Frozen (singalong), Big Hero 6, Les Miserables, The Grand Budapest Hotel, Dirty Dancing and Cinderella. General admission to these films is around £3. Additionally, in London, Nomad Cinema is screening films such as When Harry Met Sally, Footloose and The Dark Knight in venues including parks and rooftops throughout the city in August and September. Spinningfields in Manchester is back for another year also, holding its Family Film Club throughout August, with The Princess & The Frog being shown on Saturday, August 31st. This is a free event and films start at 11am.
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