Roadside History by The Virginia Gazette

ROADSIDE

History

OPENY DAIL 11-9

FAST, DELICIOUS & AFFORDABLE Prince George Street • 253-8816

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

ROAD MAP TO HISTORY

2 5

8 9 10

A tour of 60 highway markers tells the story of the Historic Triangle

York County

Gloucester

James City County

34 35

Williamsburg

28 27

14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

37 38 25

41 42

48 49 50 51 52 53 York County 54 55

Yorktown

39 40

43 44 45

Jamestown Island

Surry County

OpenStreetMap, CC-BY-SA

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Newport News

New Kent Road

White Hall Tavern

Hickory Neck Church

State Shipyard

Burnt Ordinary

Chickahominy Church

Olive Branch Christian Church

Six-Mile Ordinary

Old Stage Road in Barhamsville

Anderson’s Corner (intersection of routes 60 & 30)

Richmond Road in Toano

Forge Road, near Richmond Road

Intersection of Richmond & Chickahominy roads

Richmond Road

Intersection of Richmond & Centerville roads

Spencer’s Ordinary Intersection of Richmond & Centerville roads

Green Spring

Hot Water/Centerville

Wowinchapunke

Sir William Berkeley

Battle of Green Spring

Church on the Main

Green Spring Road

Governor’s Land

Samuel Yonge

Pocahontas

Jamestown Road

Intersection of Richmond & Centerville roads

Intersection of Centerville & Longhill roads

Two Rivers Country Club on Route 5

Intersection of John Tyler Hwy & Greensprings Road

Greensprings Road

Jamestown Road near the ferry dock

Kingsmill

Whitaker’s House

Martin’s Hundred Church

Trebell Landing

Carter’s Grove

Union Advance

Jones Mill Pond

Ringfield Plantation

Nathaniel Bacon

Cheatham Annex

Intersection of Ironbound Road & Longhill Connector (sign not installed)

Bellfield Plantation

Washington-Rochambeau Route

Indian Field Creek

Patrick Napier

Powhatan’s Village

Indian School

York River

First Inmates in Gaol

Naval Weapons Station

Vineyard Tract

Fusilier’s Redoubt

Quarterpath Road

Seaford

Peninsula Campaign

Goodwin Neck

Magruder’s Defenses

Charles Church

Battle of Williamsburg

York County

First Germans at Jamestown

First Africans

Jamestown

The Island House

Real Estate

Famous African-Americans

Great Oaks

The Palisades

Littletown

First Balloon Flight

Eastern State Hospital

Jamestown Road near the ferry dock

Jamestown Island

Colonial Parkway

Jamestown Road at Route 199

Richmond Road, near Zable Stadium

Richmond Road, near Yankee Candle

Merrimac Trail near I-64 interchange

Jamestown Road, a block from Merchants Square

Nicholson Street in Historic Area (sign not installed)

Penniman Road

Pocahontas Trail near Quarterpath Road

Pocahontas Trail at Crowne Plaza Fort Magruder Inn

Pocahontas Trail

Pocahontas Trail near Route 199

Route 60 East in front of a 7 Eleven

Pocahontas Trail near McDonald’s

Route 60 East near Carter’s Grove

Colonial Parkway

Route 238 entrance to Colonial Parkway

Seaford Road, near Back Creek Road

End of Goodwin Neck Road, just past oil refinery

Intersection of Yorktown Road and Hampton Highway

Route 17, near I-64 interchange ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

NEW KENT ROAD Where –– Route 632, Old Stage Road (formerly New Kent Road) in Barhamsville.

Big omission –– The road is best remembered for its role in the Revolutionary War during the run-up to Yorktown, but it was also a factor in the Civil War. After the Battle of Williamsburg in May 1862, Confederate troops retreated along New Kent Road to Richmond. The Union commander, Maj. Gen. George McClellan, failed to follow a diminished enemy aggressively and missed an early opportunity to capture Richmond.

Small omission –– McClellan’s delay angered President Lincoln and key cabinet members, leading to his eventual removal as leader of the Union army. McClellan retaliated by challenging Lincoln for the presidency in 1864 as a Democrat. He lost.

Update –– History buffs from eight of the original colonies made the complete march to Yorktown, including through New Kent County, in March 2006. –– Amy Jo Martin

WHITE HALL TAVERN

Where –– Anderson’s Corner, at the intersection of routes 30 and 60. Big omission –– Neighboring White Hall plantation home dates to the mid 1700s. The home has remained in the Geddy family ever since. A recent inventory of the property notes seven buildings or remains of buildings. The tavern operated out of the house.

Small omission –– While the tavern gets the mention on the highway marker, it may have only existed a few years. William Geddy Jr. purchased an ordinary license for 1804 and 1805 after inheriting the property in 1803. He was not licensed to run a tavern after that. One theory notes White Hall’s proximity within a mile of a well-known tavern, possibly “discouraging Geddy’s interest at tavern-keeping,” according to historian Martha McCartney.

Update — In 2007 both White Hall and White Hall Tavern were added to the National Register of Historic Places. –– Katelin Hall 6

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

HICKORY NECK CHURCH

Where — On Richmond Road, near Anderson’s Corner. Big omission — The church also served as a camp alternately for both Union and Confederate troops during the Civil War, much to the detriment of the building. The pulpit was dismantled, flooring was used for firewood, and one of the walls was damaged. Prior to the Civil War the church was converted to a primary school. By 1825 the oldest part of the church was demolished, and the transept from the 1770s was extended and converted into a schoolhouse.

Small omission — Earlier it was a hospital for Continental Army soldiers soldiers during the Revolutionary War. In 1781 the hospital's general surgeon, D. John Lehmann, reported that among 35 patients of the navy and militia, only one was wounded. The rest were suffering from illness.

Update — When Toano School was built in 1912, Hickory Neck was deeded to the church’s trustees, who restored the building for church services. In 1973 the church was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

— Katelin Hill

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

STATE SHIPYARD Where –– At the intersection of Richmond and Forge roads.

Big omission –– While Gen. William Phillips gets credit for the destruction of the shipyard, it was the traitor Benedict Arnold who first led the British up the James to the Chickahominy River and the shipyard more than a month before it was burned. Prior to the British raid, the yard was able to launch a galley loaded with guns to stock another ship, and the yard superintendent was able to remove “all the publick stores” two weeks before the British arrived. Small omission –– To attract skilled workers needed for the shipbuilding industry, the General Assembly granted all ship carpenters and blacksmiths, joiners, and clerks an exemption from military service. Employees were also provided with staple foods.

Update –– A 2000 underwater survey of the Chickahominy River revealed two ships from the Revolutionary War

Photo: Kelly J. Mihalcoe

period near the site of the shipyard. In 2005, near the shipyard site, the 1607 James Fort was recreated for the filming of the motion picture, “The New World.” –– Katelin Hill

The Corner Pocket James City County, VA HRACRE First Honor Award Billiards Digest Magazine First Award

Legacy Hall James City County, VA HRACRE First Honor Award

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Godspeed Animal Care James City County, VA HRACRE First Honor Award

4350 New Town Avenue, Suite 101 Williamsburg, Virginia 23188 757-220-0220 www.guernseytingle.com I

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

BURNT ORDINARY

Where — On Richmond Road in Toano. Big omission — The old tavern site is best known for who camped there during the Revolutionary War, but Burnt Ordinary saw action during the Civil War as well. In January 1863 two scouting groups of Union cavalrymen swept through the countryside. One group confronted 16 Confederate cavalrymen at nearby Olive Branch Christian Church and chased them to Burnt Ordinary. There the men of the 5th Pennsylvania came face-to-face with superior numbers of Confederates who had reached Burnt Ordinary by the Chickahominy Road. Four Union horsemen were captured and the Union advance guard drew its sabers and charged. By the end of the day both sides claimed victory.

Small omission — The area was vibrant just prior to the Civil War, William Barton Rogers wrote in 1859 about the day he boarded a steamboat headed to Williamsburg when a storm forced the boat to sail to a site on the Chickahominy River near the road to Burnt Ordinary. Rogers observed along the road “proof of prosperous and improved agriculture” and where there had once been a “ruinous charred inn” was a “hamlet of neat white houses, and on all sides… evidences of neatness and thrift.” Update — There are no visible signs of the tavern site today. An apartment complex bears the name. –– Katelin Hill

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

CHICKAHOMINY CHURCH Where — On Richmond Road at Chickahominy Road.

Big omission — The church yard was a staging area for Allied advance troops in July 1781, but their presence was no secret. British intelligence knew where Lafayette was, with spies close enough to note that he “held forth in the yard of the Chickahominy Church earlier that year in June.”

Small omission — The Chickahominy area was part of Wilmington Parish. The Rev. John Brunskil complained to the Bishop of London in 1724 that whites in his parish made little effort to provide their slaves with religious instruction. The parish was dissolved the following year, and by the late 1720s the James City Parish constructed what became known as Chickahominy Church.

Update — Chickahominy Church burned many years ago, but archaeological evidence remains. The structure now known as the Chickahominy Baptist Church was raised by blacks on land that used to have an Anglican church. Chickahominy Baptist is active today.

–– Katelin Hill

OLIVE BRANCH CHRISTIAN CHURCH

Where –– Just west of the intersection of Richmond and Croaker roads. Big omission –– Under Union occupation during the Civil War, the church windows were broken, communion silver disappeared and flooring and pews ripped apart for firewood. In 1917 Congress compensated the congregation with $500. Small omission — Months after the Battle of Williamsburg, skirmishes continued between Union and Confederate forces, including one in December 1862 that began near the church. Each side had its own version of the events that followed, both claiming victory. Church records indicate two Union soldiers among those buried in its cemetery.

Update — Electricity was run to the church after the reparation check arrived, and an annex was added in 1924. The church’s roll contains a wealth of genealogical information on several well-known area families. –– Rusty Carter ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

SIX-MILE ORDINARY Where –– Intersection of Richmond and Centerville roads. Big omission –– Known for its role in the Revolutionary War, the tavern remained in business until the Civil War began 80 years later. By the end of the Civil War, owner Elizabeth Taylor owed large sums to at least five creditors. The real estate was deeded to her son Henley L. Taylor.

Small omission — The name is based on the tavern’s distance from Williamsburg. The ordinary was part of a 150-acre farm that Elizabeth Taylor’s husband bought in 1827.

Update — In a sense, Six-Mile is still serving customers. The ordinary was located on the site of the McDonald’s restaurant next to Williamsburg Outlet Mall.

–– Katelin Hill

SPENCER’S ORDINARY Where –– Centerville Road at Richmond Road.

Big omission –– Since both armies continued on their respective missions after the day-long skirmish, the British victory (overwhelming according to British reports, narrow based on accounts from Allies) seemed to be tactically insignificant. After the battle, however, British Gen. Lord Cornwallis made a major strategic revision. Until then he had invaded Virginia at will. Following Spencer’s Ordinary he learned that his opponents were as professional as the best in his own army. He went on to Yorktown.

Small omission –– If not for British Lt. Col. John. G. Simcoe’s map, the location of Spencer’s Ordinary might have been lost forever. It pinpointed the location of the tavern and plantation at what is today’s Forest Glen subdivision.

Update — Nearly 150 men were killed or wounded, which likely gave rise to the name War Hill. The large tract between Centerville and Longhill roads is now home to a high school and park bearing the name Warhill. –– Katelin Hill 12

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

GREEN SPRING

10 16

Where — Intersection of Richmond and Centerville roads. A second sign featuring Greensprings Road is midway on Greensprings Road.

Big omission — For a time in the late 17th century the mansion at Green Spring was the interim seat of Virginia’s government. The move was forced by Nathaniel Bacon’s rebellion, at the height of which the statehouse at Jamestown was burned in September 1676. Bacon died of disease barely a month later, and the rebellion quickly disbanded. Royal Gov. Sir William Berkeley regained control of his personal estate by January 1677. Small omission — By 1650 Green Spring had become an agricultural showplace. Berkeley grew rice and varieties of fruits, and experimented with potash, flax, hemp, silk and wine. He also featured industries such as pottery-making, glass production and salt.

Update — The only physical remnant of Green Spring is the foundation of an outbuilding visible from Greensprings Road. An ambitious effort to open the site to visitors and historic interpretation died a few years ago when the National Park Service rejected the plans amid budget constraints.

–– Rusty Carter ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

HOT WATER / CENTERVILLE

Stop Hurting. Start Living! “I unequivocally recommend the expert medical services of Dr. Daniel Shaye, supported by a very dedicated staff, for anyone seeking long term relief without dependency upon medication or the need for surgery. At Performance Chiropractic you will experience a warm, caring and healing atmosphere.” — Diane Dawson, Owner Dolls of Diane

• Doctors of Chiropractic Licensed by the Virginia Board of Medicine • Practice of Acupuncture • Certified Massage Therapist • Sports Chiropractic • Chiropractic Rehabilitation

Daniel Shaye DC, CCSP, FIAMA

Call today!

(757) 229-4161 Haley Lauckern, DC

Where –– Centerville Road near Longhill Road. Big omission –– The free blacks in this community were nearly sold back into slavery within 15 years of their emancipation. A provision in William Ludwell Lee’s will required that 500 bushels of corn be provided annually to the College of William & Mary. In 1818 the college sued Lee’s executor, claiming it had not received the stipend. The case went to Virginia’s Supreme Court of Appeals, which determined that the stipend was linked to the land rather than the estate. Otherwise the college stipend would cancel Lee’s “benevolent and humanitarian interest” in freeing his slaves.

Small omission –– Natural springs on the property made the site popular with bootleggers during Prohibition in the 1920s. Archaeological field tests done after James City County bought the land in 1995 revealed the remnants of four stills. Update — James City County developed the land into a passive park. Among the features are reconstructed homes like those inhabited by the free blacks who lived there.

— Rusty Carter

Beth Allar, NCMT

State of the Art, With A Caring Touch Chiropractic • Acupuncture • Massage www.performancechiropractic.com

Williamsburg Office Park 1307 Jamestown Rd., Suite 103 171958X

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

WOWINCHAPUNCKE

Open daily at 10am The Region’s BEST Ham Biscuits Full Service Deli and Gourmet Grocery featuring: Virginia Pork Barbecue, Specialty Sandwiches, Box Lunches, Southern Side Dishes, Genuine Smithfield & Virginia Hams, Bacon, Ham Slices, and the Paula Deen Collection Stop by for a great meal and a shopping adventure!

421 Prince George Street, Downtown Williamsburg

Where — Ohe state’s newest historic markers, the sign was installed

Across from the Peanut Shop of Williamsburg

Big omission — Although regarded as a fierce warrior, two military

in late 2009 at Two Rivers Country Club in Governor’s Land.

757-258-8604

mistakes did in Wowinchapuncke. In Spring 1609 he attempted to ambush John Smith near Jamestown. The attack failed, and Wowinchapuncke was captured. He later escaped, and attempted another ambush in February 1611. That too failed, and Wowinchapuncke was mortally wounded. Within three months, his Paspahegh tribe members had scattered, surrendering their land to the English.

www.smithfieldhams.com Visit our charming and conveniently located shop at 224 Main St. Smithfield, VA 23430 Phone orders welcome: (757)-357-1798 Open daily: Monday through Saturday 10am to 6pm, Sundays 12pm-5pm

Small omission — The English did their part to drive Wowinchapuncke to his fatal assault. In August 1610 the English attacked the Paspaheghs, burning the village and destroying crops. More heinous, the English threw Wowinchapuncke’s children into the river, shooting them in the head. His wife was also executed by sword.

Featuring the region’s best selection of:

Genuine Smithfield Hams, Virginia Country Hams, Ham Slices & Bacon.

Update — Governor’s Land donated land for re-burial of Paspabegh Indian remains unearthed during a 1991 archaeological dig. This marker is part of an initiative to create dozens of new highway markers highlighting the history of Virginia Indians.

Gourmet gifts & gift baskets for every occasion are available. Our expert staff will assist youin making the basket of your dreams.

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

172113d

Fabulous Hand Cooked Virginia Peanuts and other Specialty Nut products to tempt the most discriminating palate!

— Rusty Carter

SIR WILLIAM BERKELEY

13 SPECIALTY FOODS STORE

Location — Greensprings Road near the intersection of Route 5. Big omission — Berkeley experimented growing oranges, sugar flax and rice, which he exported commercially to Britain, Holland and the West. He despised tobacco but grew it nonetheless. Enlightened agriculturally, Berkeley had much more antiquated views in other areas. His dislike of Virginia’s Quakers and Puritans led to a law to preserve the Church of England’s teachings and doctrines, and to punish any minister who taught otherwise. He also opposed public education.

Small omission — Berkeley pressed inland exploration, in part to secure Indian trade but also to search for gold. His effort laid the foundation of Virginia’s claim to the Ohio River valley.

Upate — Several years ago the National Park Service unveiled an ambitious plan to historically interpret Berkeley’s Green Spring Plantation, including options that included a visitor center and guided tours. The plan ran afoul of budget cuts, as well as a move to close the portion of Greensprings Road that ran through the property. Fire and police successfully objected to increased response times for fires and medical emergencies. — Gwenda Stratton

Famous hand-cooked Virginia Peanuts, Specialty Nuts and Nut Confections, Regional Foods and Gourmet Gifts. A visit to this charming regional specialty foods store, known for its many daily samples, is a must stop!

MERCHANTS SQUARE 414 Prince George Street, Williamsburg (757) 229-3908 Sunday-Thursday, 9:30 am-9 pm Saturday, 9 am-9 pm FARMER’S MARKET EARLY BIRDS!

10% OFF

All purchases 9AM to 11AM

www.thepeanutshop.com 172114X

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

BATTLE OF GREEN SPRING

Where –– Midway along Greensprings Road. Big omission –– The British set a trap for the Allies at Green Spring, and they nearly stepped into it. Col. Banastre Tarleton had bribed two local men to tell any Allied troops that the British had crossed the James River. But one of them fed the ruse to Gen. Anthony Wayne, commanding 800 American troops.

Small omission –– As Wayne and his troops advanced further into the trap, the Marquis de Lafayette arrived. He found a vantage point on the river and discovered the British had never left. He set up two battalions to offer cover to Wayne’s troops as they retreated. The British left Jamestown the next day, eventually bound for their denouement at Yorktown.

Update — One of the landmarks cited in accounts of the battle is Ambler Farm, occupied by the British before the battle and by Lafayette afterward. In 2007 the site served as Anniversary Park during the 400th anniversary of Jamestown.

–– Rusty Carter

A landmark on Williamsburg roads for 251 years • Rely on American’s oldest and Williamsburg’s increasingly preferred funeral home. • Bucktrout of Williamsburg provides comfort, ease and confidence with personal service to you and your family.

BUCKTROUT OF WILLIAMSBURG

• They’re your friends and neighbors – here to help you in time of need.

4124 Ironbound Rd., Williamsburg

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Greg Arnold, Owner

757-229-3822 www.bucktroutfuneralhome.com

178306X

• On-site crematorium.

Funeral Home

CHURCH ON THE MAIN

Where –– Greensprings Road, near 4-H Club Road. Big omission –– The Battle of Greensprings during the Revolutionary War was fought on the site of the church. The church may have served as a hospital for the wounded soldiers. The church foundation has been located along with 210 surrounding gravesites.

Small omission –– In 1786 the General Assembly passed the Statute of Religious Freedom, which moved away from a state church. The statute also denied the right of general taxation. Churches in continuous use survived, but many sparsely used Anglican churches wound up into the hands of other denominations or fell into disrepair. Portions of the Church on the Main stood until the1850s, a full century after it was built.

Update — Local Boy Scout Troop 103 has devoted considerable work to maintain the site, including construction of a trail spur to the church site from Greensprings Trail. Multiple youths based their Eagle Scout project on work at the church site. –– Katelin Hill

College Admissions and Scholarship Workshops for High School Students • Learn how to write successful college admission and scholarship essays • And learn how to pay for college with other people’s money Workshops begin September 19, 2010. Sign up for one or the whole series.

Free college workshops for parents of high school students Friday, September 17, 2010, at 6 pm and Saturday, September 18 at 10 am.

Contact: Pam Rambo Ed.D., at Pamela.rambo@cox.net or 757-253-2595 See website www.ramboresearchandconsulting.com for registration for parent and student workshops as well as detailed information about these workshops and others. Individual consultation programs available. Programs are held at the Herron Payne Meeting Center, 107 Bulifants Blvd in Williamsburg. ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

178045L

• Learn how to choose the right major and college

GOVERNOR’S LAND

Where –– Greensprings Road near Jamestown Road. Big omission –– The Virginia Company noted the Governor’s Land as being “in the best and most convenient place of the territory of Jamestown.” But by 1627 several inhabitants sought permission to leave. Complaints included “barrenness of ye ground” and the “badness of their utterly decayed houses and of their small strength and ability to defend themselves.”

Small omission –– Governor’s Land was a refuge during the Indian uprising in 1622, when Powhatan attacked the plantations of the James River. Though it’s documented that Indians entered the homes of unsuspecting colonists and slaughtered them, no one perished at Governor’s Land. Fleeing colonists flocked there and to Jamestown Island.

Update — Townhome construction in 1972 led to the discovery of a 1690 trash pit and the Virginia Historic Landmarks Commission carried out excavations. Fullscale excavations were conducted on acreage scheduled for development in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Today more than 600 luxury homes define Governor’s Land.

–– Katelin Hill CHILI • CRAB C AKES • C ATFISH • RIBS

We Are The First Word In BBQ!

Best of the Best! — National Barbecue News

WEDNESDAY

— AWARD WINNING — Smokehouse BBQ • Fresh Seafood Creole • Southern Comfort Food

Peel & Eat Shrimp by the pound

Fun Family Atmosphere • Patio Dining Easy on the Wallet • Cold Beverages for All Ages

DAILY SPECIALS

(757) 741-2515

TUESDAY All-You-Can-Eat Ribs

8864 Richmond Rd., Suite 101, Toano, VA Visit

www.hogwildsmokehouse.com

Lunch & Dinner: Mon.–Sat., 11–9; Sun., 11–4

186298X

• CHILI • CATFISH • RIBS • CRAB CAKES •

• B ARBEQUE • C ATFISH • RIBS • OYSTERS • JAMB ALAYA • SHRIMP • CHILI • GUMBO • ALLIGATOR • BEEF BRISKET • CRAB C AKES

• C ATFISH • RIBS • OYSTERS • JAMB ALAYA • SHRIMP • CHILI • GUMBO • ALLIGATOR • BEEF BRISKET • C ATFISH • B ARBEQUE • RIBS

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

EMPATHIZE. FOCUS ON SIMILARITIES, NOT DIFFERENCES. DO WHAT YOU CAN TO HELP. BUILD BRIDGES. In a lot of ways, people are different. But, too often, we overlook all that we have in common. In living and working together, we ﬁnd that there’s strength in diversity, and that a new perspective can help us see further than we ever thought possible.

Eighteen locations to serve you: Portsmouth Peninsula

757-638-7500 757-249-7800

Chesapeake 757-548-7200 Williamsburg 757-564-4700

Virginia Beach 757-412-2400

Norfolk

757-628-6340

Member FDIC Equal Housing Lender

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

SAMUEL H. YONGE, CIVIL ENGINEER (1843–1935)

Where — On Jamestown Road near the ferry dock. Big omission — In 1907 Samuel H. Yonge published “The Site of Old ‘James Towne.”’ Yonge reconstructed the town layout based on contemporary documents and published a map based on his findings. In his book he recollected his excavations of the Statehouse in 1903. Yonge formed three conclusions: the building burned, it was built in three stages from west to east, and the eastern section could match the description of the governmental functions recorded in 1694. According to Preservation Virginia, the excavation was crude by modern standards, but Yonge’s studies and excavations at Jamestown were remarkably thorough and insightful.

Small omission — Until 1902 it was believed that the remains of James Fort had been claimed by erosion. Yonge’s excavations placed the fort between the Confederate earthworks and the church tower. The location and orientation of the fort on his map are very close to the now-proven location.

Update — Continued excavation led to the discovery of what may be the original well dug in 1607, and from it a trove of artifacts.

178049X

— Katelin Hill

All roads lead to WILLIAMSBURG DENTAL GROUP Drs. Bennett, Butler and Associates, Ltd. 1319 Jamestown Road, Williamsburg, VA 23185

www.williamsburgdentalgroup.com

(757) 229-7210 New patient referrals always welcome and appreciated! 22

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

POCAHONTAS

Where –– On Jamestown Road, near Jamestown Settlement.

Big omission –– Her role in saving Capt. John Smith. That’s likely intentional, because most historians doubt the accuracy of Smith’s story. If Pocahontas threw herself on Smith to save him during his captivity, it was probably part of a tribal ritual. His tale was written 17 years after the incident, yet his writings in the months after his capture do not mention any rescue.

Small omission –– According to the Powhatan Nation website, Pocahontas married John Rolfe in 1614 as a condition of her release after a year in captivity by the English. Some consider the marriage political, but other evidence indicates Rolfe sincerely loved Pocahontas. In any event, an era of peace between the two cultures resulted.

Update –– Disney’s 1995 animated film “Pocahontas” caused a spike in visitation to Jamestown Settlement and Historic Jamestowne. Visitors wanted to know where the waterfall depicted in the movie was located. The 2005 feature film “The New World” took a stab at the relationship between Pocahontas and Smith. Newcomer Q’orianka Kilcher drew raves for her portrayal of Pocahontas. Her first film since, “Barbarian Princess” premiered in October 2009 at the Hawaii International Film Festival and won the Audience Award.

–– Merry Wyatt

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

JAMESTOWN ROAD

Where –– Jamestown Road, near Jamestown Settlement.

Big omission –– Today’s Jamestown Road was likely an extension of the “Greate Road” that was Jamestown’s main street. The Greate Road extended to Glass House Point, where traces of it can be seen today. The road was eventually extended to Middle Plantation (Williamsburg), perhaps following the course of a wooden barricade built across the Peninsula during 1633-34 to protect the colony from local Indian tribes.

Small omission — Expansion, upgrade, and maintenance of Jamestown Road and other byways was the impetus for the House of Burgesses to pass the first highway legislation in the English colonies in 1632. This law required each man, or a paid substitute, to work on the roads and bridges a certain number of days every year.

Update — Modern Jamestown Road provides a scenic, mostly two-lane route from the Jamestown Ferry to Merchants Square. Protecting the scenic character of the road has been a constant struggle against commercial and residential development.

–– Jim Davidson

STONE CENTER

RETAIL & WHOLESALE Large Selection of Decorative River Stone, Natural Stone, Pavers, & Retaining Wall Block. Topsoil, Nutri-green, Sand, & Gravel.

www.YorktownMaterials.com 122 Greene Drive, Yorktown (757) 898-4444

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

FIRST GERMANS AT JAMESTOWN

Where –– On the service road parallel to Jamestown Road (Route 31) near the entrance to Jamestown Settlement.

Big omission –– Nobody called them Germans. John Smith and his successors knew them as Dutchmen, not because they came from Holland but because the English found it easier to say Dutch rather than the German word Deutch.

Small omission –– Anybody who was not British was classified as a “stranger” and probably not to be trusted. Eight German and Polish glassworkers stole tools and weapons and sold them to the Indians, and when things got tight at Jamestown some deserted to Powhatan and taught his people how to use them, though apparently not very well. The Germans failed to make any exportable glass and 12 years later were replaced by Italians. These same Germans were also accused of plotting to murder John Smith. In 1610, after the arrival of Lord Delaware, two of them again offered their expertise to Powhatan, who told them, “You that would have betrayed Captaine Smith to me, will certainly betray me to this great Lord.” Powhatan thought it safer not to trust the untrustworthy and so ordered his men to beat out their brains.

Update –– The reconstructed Glasshouse at the entrance to the National Park Service’s Jamestown Island Historic Site demonstrates glassmaking techniques and offers its products for sale. Nearby are the remains of the early factory found by archaeologist J.C. Harrington in 1948. –– Ivor Noel Hume ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Servant Leadership and Community Involvement #1 Specialty Distribution Center in America!

Vice President Malcolm Gillliam (left) presents Associate of the Year Steven Jones and General Manager Brien Craft the top award.

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

• Stored fixtures for 300 stores undergoing remodeling. • Repacked trucks higher and tighter for shipment. • Saved $7.3 million on those two initiatives alone. • Raised $65,000 to build home with Habitat for Humanity. • Associates worked 250 hours for the Salvation Army. • LaTina Hassell won Darnell Newby volunteer award.

FIRST AFRICANS IN ENGLISH AMERICA

Where –– Jamestown Road, near Jamestown Settlement.

Big omission –– Race did not play a significant part in the treatment of Africans until the mid 1600s. Society in early Jamestown was divided by class rather than skin color. Some Africans before 1640 were free and owned property. Black and white laborers worked side by side until they earned their freedom from indentured servitude. Around 1640 a labor crisis arose as Native Americans were deemed unsatisfactory laborers and indentured servitude failed to meet the needs of the colonists. White landowners began to embrace black slavery as a solution. Africans were “strong, inexpensive, and available in seemingly unlimited supplies from their native continent.”

Small omission –– Even before 1619, Africans are believed to have traveled to the New World with European explorers. They typically served as crew members, servants, and slaves with Christopher Columbus, Vasco Núñez de Balboa and Cortéz.

Update — Jamestown Settlement observed Black History Month in February 2010 with exhibits and a brochure highlighting the culture of the first known Africans in Virginia, who from the kingdom of Ndongo in Angola. Fishing, hunting, construction and metalworking skills of Africans in Angola compared with technology used in 17th century Virginia.

–– Katelin Hill

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

JAMESTOWN Where –– On Jamestown Road, near the ferry dock. Big omission –– The statehouse at Jamestown, where Virginia’s General Assembly was formed, burned in 1698. Although plans for a new one had been discussed in previous years, it was considered too much effort. The House of Burgesses sent approval to construct a new statehouse in Middle Plantation, or Williamsburg, and the capital was moved. By the mid 1700s Jamestown ceased to exist as a town.

Small omission –– Never publicized because of the attention to Jamestown’s 17th century history, there are several well-preserved Civil War earthworks on the island.

Update — In early May it was revealed that Preservation Virginia, which owns several acres of land on Jamestown Island as well as a the historic church, is negotiating with Colonial Williamsburg to provide undefined support, likely interpretive services.

–– Katelin Hill

THE ISLAND HOUSE

Where — Along the loop drive around Jamestown Island. Big omission — The Nathaniel Bacon named in the marker was the first cousin of the notorious rebel Nathaniel Bacon. This fellow stayed loyal to the Crown during his younger kinsman’s rebellion, and it was at his house on King’s Creek that Royal Gov. Sir William Berkeley first set foot after his return from the Eastern Shore in 1676. Nathaniel Bacon was a prominent man in his own right: large landowner, president of Virginia’s Governing Council, the Colony’s Auditor General, and Acting Royal Governor on several occasions.

Small omission — Elizabeth Kingsmill (or Kingsmell) Bacon was the only surviving child of Richard and Jane Kingsmill. She brought extensive property and prestige into the marriage.

Update — The “Island House Tract” continues under the protection of Colonial National Historical Park and can be easily accessed via the driving loop on the island. — Jim Davidson 28

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

REAL ESTATE Where –– Colonial Parkway, close to Jamestown.

Big omission –– This transaction was more of a family matter. Gershon Buck had been orphaned at a young age, and Richard Kingsmill was his appointed guardian. When Buck and his siblings became adults they took possession of the land. Buck’s sister Elizabeth married Thomas Crompe (also spelled Crumpe), who sold the parcel to his brother-in-law. Small omission –– Land transactions at the time were often a process of the headright system, but people could also ask for property that reverted to the crown because of death or abandonment.

Update — Portions of the Buck-Crumpe transaction are part of today’s nearby Gospel Spreading Farm tract. At 600 acres the farm is the largest privately held parcel in James City County. –– Rusty Carter

A FAMOUS AFRICANAMERICAN’S DREAM

Where –– Colonial Parkway, three miles east of Jamestown. Big omission –– Among the enterprises associated with the farm was an amusement park, whose remnants were visible until the mid 1990s, and a school for delinquent children that was never built. Plans called for the parkway to turn inland and split the farm, but Micheaux persuaded the Interior Department to let it run along the river, leaving the farm intact.

Small omission –– When Micheaux bought the Gospel Spreading Farm in 1936 the land was pocked with holes. Treasure hunters had dug there, seeking riches allegedly buried by Capt. John Smith. Hence the name of the road leading to the farm: Treasure Island Road.

Update — The farm continues to operate today under the Smith family, who took over in 1968. The Smiths also operate Oleta Bus Lines, which annually carries thousands of schoolchildren on trips and W&M athletes to games.

–– Rusty Carter ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

GREAT OAKS Where –– Colonial Parkway, between Newport Avenue and Route 199.

Big omission –– They’re gone. The last of the pair of white oaks, estimated to be at least 250 years old, toppled during Hurricane Ernesto in September 2006. The fall revealed that the trunk suffered from extensive rot. The other oak fell some time in the early 1970s.

Small omission –– Ernesto knocked down around 200 trees on or near Park Service land. Despite its height, however, the great oak was set back far enough from the parkway that its crown landed near the marker rather than block the roadway.

Update –– The Park Service collected acorns from the fallen trees and planted them where the original trees stood. The saplings are growing well.

–– Rusty Carter

THE PALISADES

Where –– Colonial Parkway, a half-mile south of Newport Avenue.

Big omission –– Talk of a palisade across the Peninsula began as early as 1611 and was reenergized after the Indian uprising of 1622. The General Assembly authorized construction of the 6-mile-long barrier between Archer’s Hope (today’s College Creek) and Queens Creek. Construction began in 1633 when “one out of every forty men between Archer’s Hope and Queens Creek was ordered to report to the house of Dr. John Pott at Middle Plantation on March 1st to begin construction” and was completed in 1634. The Palisade quicky fell into disrepair after tensions eased. Small omission –– There are indications the Palisade was rebuilt following the Indian uprising of 1644. Update –– Remnants of the 1634 Palisade may have been found by Colonial Williamsburg archaeologists in excavations on the John Page house in the vicinity of the old Bruton Heights School.

— Jim Davidson 30

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

LITTLETOWN Where — On Jamestown Road near Shirley Pewter.

Big omission — Littletown was just one piece of a sprawling collection of farms that demonstrated the value and stature of land ownership in early Virginia. Originally encompassing today’s Holly Hills, by 1633 Littletown owner George Menefie had amassed a 1,200-acre plantation that included portions of today’s Kingsmill. Within 30 years it changed hands at least three times. By then, owner Thomas Pettus, a colonel and planter, exploited his holdings to become a member of the Council of State.

Small omission — Menefie sold Littletown in 1638 to colony Secretary Richard Kemp, who combined it with an 840-acre patent to form the 2,000-acre Rich Neck. After Kemp died in 1656 his widow married Sir Thomas Lunsford, an ill-tempered Loyalist and former captain of the Tower of London.

Update — The value of the land in the former Littletown is evident today. A 7-Eleven convenience store surrendered its gas pumps for a reported $800,000 to improve access to Route 199 rather than give up its prime location on Jamestown Road.

— Rusty Carter

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

FIRST BALLOON FLIGHT IN VIRGINIA Where –– Corner of Richmond Road and Scotland Street, on campus.

Big omission –– Joseph Watson had only worked on his balloon a short time before the historic flight. In an April 1 letter to his brother David, Watson admitted he had only been “engaged for several evenings in the construction of an Air-balloon.” When it finally took flight five weeks later (on the third attempt), Watson described the sight as bearing resemblence to “a moon in partial eclipse.”

Small omission –– Watson’s interest in ballooning was the product of a flight eight years earlier in Philadelphia, the first recorded in America. He didn’t live long enough to see the popularity of ballooning expand. He died in 1805 at age 25.

Update — Ballooning gained stature as a military tactic. Manned balloons were used to learn troop locations and weapons placements during the Civil War. Prior to the Battle of Williamsburg in May 1862, Confederates went aloft to observe the movement of Union troops at Yorktown.

–– Katelin Hill

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

EASTERN STATE HOSPITAL Where –– To be erected out front, at the corner of Ironbound Road and the Longhill Connector.

Big omission –– The original name and location. The Lunatic Asylum was on Francis Street. The

EASTERN STATE HOSPITAL

grounds for the 24-bed hospital included “yards for patients to walk and take the Air in” as well as a fence to keep them from escaping into town.

Small omission –– The first hospital burned in 1885, the result of a fire that started in the building’s newly added electrical wiring. By the 1930s the hospital housed 2,000 patients, and both space limitations and its proximity to the newly restored Colonial Williamsburg tourist destination prompted its move.

Update — The hospital recently went through a

Eastern State Hospital is the oldest psychiatric hospital in the United States. It was established on 12 Oct. 1773, when Virginia was still a British colony, with the mission of treating and discharging the curable mentally ill. In 1841, under the leadership of John Minson Galt, the hospital initiated new reforms characterized as “moral management,” a self-directed form of rehabilitation that changed the social perception and treatment of mental illness in America. Beginning in 1935 and ending on Jan. 27, 1970, the entire institution gradually moved to Dunbar Farm.

major overhaul, with razing of 20th century buildings and the construction of replacements, as well as downsizing to about 360 patient beds. Much of the 500 acres surrounding the hospital is eyed for redevelopment as homes, offices and retail. –– Rusty Carter

EBC Salon Spa Boutique 229-2440

www.europeanbeautyconcepts.com 1248 Richmond Road Williamsburg Shopping Center

specializes in hair care services

including

Coloring

Manicures & Pedicures Facials Massages Body Waxing

Brazilian Keratin

NEW Straightening Treatment Hair Extensions NEW

plus

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

WASHINGTON-ROCHAMBEAU ROUTE

Where –– Richmond Road in front of Yankee Candle. Another sign is on Route 1020 in Yorktown, near the Colonial Parkway. Big omission –– In July 1781, the combined armies of more than 6,000 men marched 600 miles to Yorktown to surprise the British. The allied troops forced the surrender Oct. 19 in the most decisive victory of the war, leading the way to American independence. Small omission –– A legion of French troops stayed 10-15 miles ahead of Rochambeau’s troops, protecting an exposed flank from the British. When they got to Williamsburg, the generals conferred with Gen. Lafayette, who had commanded the American forces in Virginia during the summer. Following the victory at Yorktown, Rochambeau retraced his route to Boston, boarding ships for the Caribbean. Update –– President Barack Obama signed into law the Omnibus Public Land Management Act on March 30. One of its provisions designates the WashingtonRochambeau Revolutionary Route as a National Historic Trail.

–– Judi Barnett

PER GALLON

1931

The helpful place. 36

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

ON ANY BRAND OF

Benjamin Moore Paint

2010 Ace Has Always Been The Place For Hardware Supplies

Assorted Regal Brand Expert Advice Thousands of Colors Exceptional Quality

BENJAMIN MOORE PAINTS * With coupon only. Exp 10/31/10

LOCATIONS TO SERVE YOU:

FOUR

Terry Deaver, Store Owner; Phyllis Kokoruda, Marketing Director; Brian & Kevin Deaver

5 OFF

• Williamsburg Shopping Center, 1230 Richmond Road • Governor’s Green Shopping Center, 4511 John Tyler Hwy. • 12490 Warwick Blvd., Newport News • 2098 Nickerson Blvd., Hampton

229-1900 220-9362 594-9890 850-0544

Mon - Sat, 7:30 a.m. - 8 p.m.; Sun, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.

PATRICK NAPIER, COLONIAL SURGEON

Where –– Merrimac Trail, near the Camp Peary exit of Interstate 64.

Big omission –– The cost of Napier’s voyage to Virginia was originally paid for by a Capt. John Underwood, who in turn received a “headright” for his investment. Headrights were granted to anyone who would pay the transportation costs of a laborer or indentured servant to help populate the colony. The Virginia Company allowed a 50-acre grant to the holder of a headright. Underwood transferred Napier’s headright to Peter Ford who, in turn, used Napier’s as one of ten names to secure 500 acres in Gloucester County.

Small omission –– Napier’s father, also named Patrick, was a Burgess of Dumbarton, Scotland and a barber to King Charles I of England, Scotland, and Ireland (Charles I was later beheaded by Parliamentary forces in 1649). The Scots shifted their support to Charles II, which led to the 1650 Battle of Dunbar. The Scots lost. It was sometime after this battle that Patrick the Younger was likely “sold to the plantations in America.”

Update — The Napier family has deep roots in Dumbarton, Scotland. The family lineage contains several top military leaders, “Father of Clyde Shipbuilding” (Scotland was once the world's largest shipbuilder), “Father of Logarithms,” and other notables. –– Jim Davidson

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

INDIAN SCHOOL Where –– Beside Jamestown Road, on the College of William & Mary’s 18th century campus, one block from Merchants Square.

Big omission –– The college failed to meet goals set by its English founders in the Royal Charter “...that the Christian faith may be propagated amongst the Western Indians...” But from the Indians’ perspective, it may have been more successful. It gave the Indians enough knowledge about British culture to defend their old lifestyle.

Small omission –– The gift of funds from the Boyle estate was the first instance of private philanthropy at the college. A portrait of Boyle given later by the estate’s executor, was the first known gift of art in William and Mary’s art collection.

Update –– The school building, called the Brafferton, now houses the offices of William & Mary President Taylor Reveley and Provost Michael Halleran.

–– Wilford Kale

FIRST INMATES

Where –– The Gaol is along Nicholson Street in the Historic Area. No location has been selected for the marker, which was announced October 2009.

Big omission –– Coscohunk and James Mush may have been the first inmates, but they were hardly the most notorious. Fifteen henchmen of the pirate Blackbeard were held there in 1718. Henry Hamilton, lieutenant governor of British Detroit, was jailed there in 1779 for buying pioneer scalps from the Indians. Small omission –– The original press release from Virginia’s Department of Historic Resources misspelled gaol as goal.

Update –– In 2007 the Gaol was used during filming of the HBO mini-series “John Adams.”

–– Rusty Carter 38

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

FIRST WILLIAMSBURG GAOL INMATES On May 3, 1704, two Chickahominy Indians called Coscohunk and James Mush were accused of burning the house of another Chickahominy, Tom Perry. They were held in the new Williamsburg Gaol overnight and released into the custody of the Chickahominy tribe. In September, about 40 Nanzattico Indians, accused of complicity in an assault on a family of English colonists in Richmond County, were sent to the Gaol. They remained there until May 1705, when the Virginia Council ordered those 12 or older to be transported to Antigua and sold into slavery. Their children were kept as house servants to Council members.

186436X

VINEYARD TRACT

Where — On Penniman Road near Grace Baptist Church. The sign apparently broke apart and was welded.

Big omission — Growing grapes was not only encouraged in Virginia, it was once required by law. In 1619 the House of Commons passed the “12th Acte,” which mandated male colonists plant 10 grape vines each year “until they have attained to the arte and experience of dressing a vineyard.” Alas, the grapes never yieleded enough fruit for winemaking. Small omission — The 1769 act also failed, mostly from pests and disease, though the Revolutionary War also interfered. French winemaker Andrew Estave was hired to grow grapes for winemaking in York County. If he could have produced 10 hogsheads within six years, he would have gotten the deed to the property. He too failed.

Introducing our

Super Six RD ASHFO

RIA VICTO

N SUTTO

STER LANCA

M NGHA NOTTI

NHILL BROW

$56 / SQ. FT.

Installed with FREE Sink & Countertop Removal. with any Kitchen over 40 sq. ft. Expires 10/31/10. Additional charges may apply. Contact us for a quote.

CAMBRIA IS AVAILABLE AT

Update — The vines were the problem. Estave tried to plant French vines, which couldn’t withstand Virginia’s summer heat. Today Virginia’s largest winery thrives less than 10 miles away in James City County at the Williamsburg Winery. Westward is the New Kent Winery. –– Rusty Carter

Local showroom located at

5810 Mooretown Rd., Williamsburg

Call Today 221-0040 www.cgandm.com ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

5V TH[[LY ^OH[ [OL ^LH[OLY PZ SPRL V\[ZPKL `V\Y [YPW ^PSS OH]L H Z\UU` MVYLJHZ[ H[ .YLH[ >VSM 3VKNL /LHK V]LY [V >PSSPHTZI\YN»Z VUS` PUKVVY ^H[LYWHYR ^OPJO PZ HS^H`Z H [VHZ[` KLNYLLZ HUK YLZLY]LK L_JS\ZP]LS` MVY V\Y N\LZ[Z 7S\Z LUQV` V\Y JHIPU [OLTLK Z\P[LZ NHTL HYJHKL *\I *S\I HJ[P]P[` JLU[LY :JVVVWZ 2PK :WH HUK ZV T\JO TVYL -VY KL[HPSZ ]PZP[ NYLH[^VSM JVT VY JHSS >63-

SgdqdÓr mn shld khjd ` Fqd`s Vnke shld-

40 ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Williamsburg, VA

QUARTERPATH ROAD Where — Pocahontas Trail, in front of Crowne Plaza Fort Magruder Hotel. Big omission — This road was made famous in colonial history as the route the British soldiers trooped when they snuck into town to steal the gunpowder from the Magazine in 1775.

Small omission — The terminus at the James River is near the 17th hole of the famed Kingsmill River Course. When the men’s PGA tournament played there during 1980-95, small boats would anchor near the shore. They became known as Curtis’s Strange Navy after Kingsmill’s own Curtis Strange. No one at the water could see any shots land, but they would echo the cheers of the gallery as if they could.

Update — Three separate developments have popped up with the name Quarterpath, posing some confusion. Quarterpath condos are built near this sign at the corner with York Street. Quarterpath Crossing is a shopping center built at the corner of Route 199. Quarterpath at Williamsburg is the big mixed-use development by Riverside Health System. It will straddle the road and will include Doctors Hospital as the crown jewel.

— Bill O’Donovan

Welcome, to our family serving your family

with professional compassionate care.

We have created a community that is more of an extension of your family, where caring professionals are here to offer a helping hand while you enjoy new friends, new experiences and new days. At Spring Arbor, we nurture your independence and help you thrive in a setting of privacy, security and comfort.

757-565-3583 935 Capitol Landing Rd. Williamsburg springarborliving.com

• • • • •

Spacious apartments Wellness & fitness program 24-hour Care Staff Short-term recuperative stays Month to month contracts

“

I am very happy at Spring Arbor, it is my home. The staff is just wonderful and they take great care of me!!!

Please contact Mary Scalisi at 565-3583 to schedule a tour.

— Helen Hanna

186435X

RESIDENTIAL ASSISTED LIVING

”

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Restaurant and Bar 1430 High Street, Williamsburg 757-903-2585

PENINSULA CAMPAIGN

(across from the Movie Tavern) www.terracoffeewine.com

New Hours August 1, 2010 – Mon.-Thurs., 6am-11pm Fri.-Sat., 6am-1:30 am, Sun., 5pm-11pm

Where –– In front of the Crowne Plaza Fort Magruder Inn on Pocahontas Trail.

MONDAY

$12.99 Prime Rib

In keeping with Chef Troy Buckley’s tapas style menu, Terra is offering a hand cut piece of prime rib, served with potato and local fresh vegetables, and a horseradish creme fraiche, served tapas style.

Big omission –– During the early part of the Peninsula Campaign, Gen. Joseph Johnston’s wounding at the Battle of Seven Pines led to the June 1, 1862, emergence of Gen. Robert E. Lee as Commander of the Army of Northern Virginia. Lee went on to fight a series of successful battles against Gen. George McClellan and drive him away from Richmond. McClellan and his Army survived and soon fought another campaign against Lee, in Maryland.

TUESDAY

$5.00 Tapas

Chef Troy Buckley features 14 of Terra’s favorite tapas items for only $5 each. Enjoy bacon wrapped BBQ chicken skewers, lump crab & artichoke dip, white wine bathed mussels, Chef Buckley’s award winning mac-n-cheese, and many other great menu items.

WEDNESDAY

Girls Night Out

Buy 1, Get 2nd

1/2 OFF

Ladies, buy one small plate item and get the 2nd item 1/2 off, all night long. Enjoy beverage specials from $2.00–$6.00

THURSDAY

only

$16.99

186448X

Surf & Turf

Choice of Lobster Tail or 2 Pacific Prawns

Chef Troy Buckley pan sears a 6 oz. NY strip steak and adds a 4 oz. grilled Maine lobster tail, or 2 Pacific prawns, along with potato and fresh local vegetables for your enjoyment!

LUNCH SPECIAL

only

$7.95

MONDAY – SATURDAY 10AM - 5PM

1/2 Sandwich & Soup or Salad 42

Let us make your party, luncheon or special event a success! Call us now to review our catering menu. We also have space for private parties. Call 757-903-2585

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Small omission –– The campaign spanned five months from the Union Army’s arrival at Fortress Monroe in March 1862 to its departure from Harrison’s Landing near Richmond in August. The campaign highlighted the military application of new technology through observation balloons, land mines, railroad-borne artillery and ironclad ships.

Update — Many Peninsula Campaign battlefields continue to disappear under pressure of modern development. Organizations such as the non-profit Civil War Preservation Trust (www.civilwar.org) are making strides in purchasing endangered sites to rescue them.

–– Jim Davidson

MAGRUDER’S DEFENSES

Where — Pocahontas Trail, south of the Crown Plaza Hotel.

Big omission — On the morning of May 5, 1862, Union forces charged across “ugly” ground strewn with logs and brush in front of Fort Magruder, one of 14 impressive Confederate batteries constructed to stop the Union from taking Richmond. About one-third of Redoubt 3 is preserved and nicely memorialized next to the courtyard pool in the middle of the Crown Plaza hotel. The lobby displays the best map of the battle, as well as a case of Civil War artifacts.

Small omission — If you look hard you can find a small fragment of that fort still standing on Penniman Road behind Grace Baptist Church, protected to this day by the United Daughters of the Confederacy. Though the Union took the fort after the Confederates slipped away during the night and raised the Stars and Stripes over the battery, 147 years later a Confederate flag still flies defiantly over the battlements, protected only by a chain-linked fence.

Update — A fantastic bit of preservation has been done by the City of Williamsburg at Redoubt Park, on nearby Quarterpath Road. This was Redoubt 1, holding down the right side of the Confederate line, a position of great tactical importance but little actual fighting. The new Doctors Hospital could pose a grave threat to the nearby “Bloody Ravine.” Unless something is done quickly, Confederate (and probably Union) remains will soon be bulldozed under. — Timmons Roberts

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

BATTLE OF WILLIAMSBURG

Where –– On Pocahontas Trail between Route 199 and Colonial Williamsburg.

Big omission –– If not for a surprising troop movement by Confederate Gen. James Johnston in March 1862, there may have been no Battle of Williamsburg. Gen. George McClellan’s original plan called for Union troops to sail from Washington to Urbanna, then march to West Point for a staging area only 40 miles from Richmond. When Johnston abruptly repositioned his men from Manassas to Fredericksburg, McClellan scrapped his strategy as too risky and instead landed at Fort Monroe, where his troops had to go northwest through Yorktown and Williamsburg.

Small omission –– Williamsburg’s role was largely after the battle, caring for the dead and dying. Among 21,000 men who fought in the battle, more than 3,700 were killed or wounded. Yellow flags marked public buildings, churches and private homes used as hospitals. Soldiers who died in a hospital housed in the Baptist church were buried in pits dug in a yard next to the Powder Magazine.

Update — One of the few remnants of the battle is a site preserved as Redoubt Park off Quarterpath Road. Civil War enthusiasts continue to oppose a plan for a hospital, medical park and homes proposed nearby.

–– Judi Barnett

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

UILTS

unlimited

more than just a quilt store

J.FentonGallery Whimsical • Wearable • Wonderful

Handbags by Baggalini, Donna Sharp, LeSportsac & Stephanie Dawn

Virginia’s Pre m i e r American A rtisan Gallery

Women’s Clothing, Accessories & Handcrafted Jewelry

Jewelry • Kaleidoscopes • Pottery A rt Glass • Metal A rt • Wearable A rt Whimsical Gifts • Glass Ornamee nts

Children’s Clothing & Gifts Including WEBKINZ & Bunnies by the Bay

We have the perfect gift for any occasion and a great selection of gifts from $5 to $25.

Colonial Clothing for Men, Women, Boys & Girls Exquisite Handmade Antique & New American Quilts “Williamsburg’s BEST Gift Store”

Handbags • Wallets • Watches Jewelry • Charms • Sunglasses

110 South Henry S t reet

Henry Street Shops/Merchants Square (adjacent to the Historic A rea) Williamsburg,VA Open Mon. – Sat. 9:30-9pm, S u n . 9:30-6pm

Henry Street Shops/Merchants Square (adjacent to the Historic A rea) Williamsburg,VA Open Mon.–Sat. 9:: 30-9pm, S u n . 9:30-6pm

Phone 757-253-8700

www.quiltsunlimited.com

www.quiltsunlimited.com ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

KINGSMILL

Where — Pocahontas Trail near Route 199, surrounded by a beautiful arc of flowers... at a 7Eleven store.

Big omission — Nothing. Here is a history marker that captures the early history succintly and carries it through to the end of the Revolutionary War.

Small omission — Colonial Williamsburg used to own much of the land. The deed of sale stipulated that Anheuser-Busch could not restore any of the Burwell outbuildings beyond their existing state, lest the foundation face a new competitor in history tourism.

Update — The 1969 sale of the property and two smaller parcels led to the formation of the brewery, planned community, theme park (now two), resort conference center, office park, and an industrial park nearby. The brewery set the county on firm fiscal footing as it began paying millions in machine and tools tax. In July, Kingsmill Resort was sold to Xanterra Parks and Resorts for an undisclosed amount. InBev sold Busch Gardens and Water Country, along with all of Busch Entertainment, to private equity firm Blackstone for up to $2.7 billion.

–– Bill O’Donovan

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

WHITAKER’S HOUSE

Where –– On Pocahontas Trail (Route 60 East), between the Route 199 interchange section and McDonald’s Restaurant. The house actually stood a mile or so away, near Presidents Park.

Big omission –– Whitaker’s House served as headquarters for Maj. Gen. George B. McClellan’s Army of the Potomac during the Battle of Williamsburg. Gen. W.F. “Baldy” Smith, mentioned on the sign, was a IV Corps Division commander. McClellan had remained at Yorktown to direct the embarkation of troops up the York River toward West Point to intercept the Confederate Army as it retreated toward Richmond. He arrived at Whitaker’s House to take command at 5 p.m. on May 5 when the battle had entered its final phase.

Small omission –– Also spelled Whittaker’s House in several sources. McClellan’s staff at Whitaker’s House included two members of the French royal family –– the Comte de Paris (heir-apparent to the French throne) and his brother the Duc de Chartres.

Update –– The Confederate Army continued its “strategic retreat” toward Richmond, and Union forces occupied Williamsburg until the end of the war, with a couple of brief exceptions. The French royals served with Union forces for nearly a year, leaving when relations between the U.S. and France grew tense over France’s invasion of Mexico.

–– Jim Davidson

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

HUDGINS Art Hudgins

Michael Hudgins

President

Vice President

Your Williamsburg Hometown Hospitality Dealer

CELEBRATING 28 YEARS of Exceptional Sales & Service

Richard Carter

Phil Williams Sales Associate

General Manager

Hudgins Holiday was founded in 1982 by“Big John”Hudgins & the tradition of Superior Customer Service is being carried on by sons Art and Michael Hudgins and the entire Holiday Team. Clint Payne Sales Associate

Sales, Service, Parts and Collision Center, Holiday is here to take care of your every automotive need.

David Campbell Sales Associate

Visit us at 543 Second Street in Williamsburg, or on the web at www.HolidayChevroletCadillac.com

Over 225 Years of Experience from Our Sales Team!

Phil Lorack

Michael Sharkey

Sales Associate

Big City Selection – Hometown Hospitality HUDGINS

Ben Ivey Sales Associate

Williamsburg’s Hometown Hospitality Dealer

757-253-1960

543 Second Street

Williamsburg

Nora Wood

Carrie Tyndall

Internet Sales Associate

Business Manager

See our complete new and used inventory at www.holidaychevroletcadillac.com 48

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

187426X

MARTIN’S HUNDRED CHURCH

Where –– Pocahontas Trail, near Carter’s Grove Plantation. The marker is a mile southeast of where the church once stood.

Big omission –– In the overgrown graveyard of Martin’s Hundred church, at the edge of the field on the north side of a small back road, rests the 1694 gravestone of Dr. Samuel Pond. The inscription carved on it provides the only contemporary relic of Martin’s Hundred Parish. Here Lieth in hope of joyfull Resvrrection the body of SAMVELL POND of Martins Hundred parish in james Citty covnty in the Dominion of Virginia Physician whoe DeparteD this Life the 26 of october in the year of ovr Lord 1694 aged 48

Small omission –– One of the earliest still-legible Virginia gravestones, archaeologists hoped to preserve it by moving it to the Winthrop Rockefeller Archaeology Museum at Carter’s Grove. The danger of damaging it caused the plan to be abandoned. Instead, a full size photograph was installed in the museum. The image is still in the museum that Colonial Williamsburg closed in 2002 and sold six years later.

Update –– As a physician, Samuel Pond must have been a person of importance in the parish. Yet he seems to have vanished from the records. –– Ivor Noel Hume

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

TREBELL’S LANDING Where –– Pocahontas Trail at the service entrance to Carter’s Grove Plantation.

Big omission –– Who was Trebell? William Trebell and his wife, Sarah, purchased 107 acres adjacent to Carter’s Grove and remained there until their deaths in 1789. He called himself a resident of “Martin’s Hundred,” a name whose importance was long forgotten. Trebell had previously been a tavern keeper, having purchased Williamsburg’s Raleigh Tavern in 1763. He kept an inn at his James River landing as well as operating a store selling coffee, tea, wine and whiskey. Small omission –– On Sept. 29, 1781, General Henry Knox ordered his troops to disembark at Trebell’s Landing and “camp as contiguous to the shore as convenient,” adding that, “The officers will be particularly attentive to prevent the soldiers from plundering or doing the inhabitants any injury.”

Update –– The landing site is now part of the Williamsburg Sewage Treatment Plant.

–– Ivor Noel Hume

CARTER’S GROVE Where –– On Pocahontas Trail 31⁄4 miles east of Williamsburg, at the service entrance to the plantation.

Big omission –– The property was purchased by the Rockefellerowned Sealantic Fund in 1964 and in the following year was opened to the public by Colonial Williamsburg. The mansion owed its fame more to public exposure than to its altered appearance at the hands of architect Duncan Lee.

Small omission –– The legend that British Lt. Col. Banastre Tarleton was quartered there and rode his horse up the stairs gained credence when archaeologists digging in the garden found a brass ornament decorated with Tarleton’s family crest.

Update –– As recently as 1994 Colonial Williamsburg rightly declared that Carter’s Grove “presents a sweeping panorama of Virginia’s past that embraces more than 400 years of human endeavor.” Eight years later it was closed for renovations and in 2008, being deemed unrelated to the foundation’s educational mission, it was sold to millionaire Halsey Minor.

–– Ivor Noel Hume 50

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

A UNION ADVANCE

Where –– Near the Jones Pond pull-out along the Colonial Parkway. Big omission –– Based on reports from captured slaves and confirmed by an initial scouting party, several fortifications on the Confederate left flank were unoccupied. Brig. Gen. Winfield Scott Hancock received orders to lead a flanking movement of his Union troops in that direction May 5, 1862. As he approached a dam across Cub Creek, Hancock halted his column due to the formidable Confederate fortification (Redoubt 14) on the high bluff. Lt. George Armstrong Custer volunteered to lead a detachment to determine the strength of the fort. The fortification was unmanned by the Confederates, so Hancock immediately advanced his column toward Williamsburg. Fighting became severe as Hancock’s troops moved to within artillery range of Fort Magruder and repulsed several Confederate attacks. Expected reinforcements failed to materialize and Hancock’s advance ground to a halt late in the day, but not before helping make future Confederate defense of Williamsburg untenable. The Confederate retreat toward Richmond continued, unmolested.

Small omission –– Maj. Gen. George McClellan reported Hancock’s performance on May 5 as “superb.” He was referred to as “Hancock the Superb” from that day forward. Custer would later become one of the Civil War's youngest generals but perish afterward at Little Big Horn.

Update –– The failure of the Peninsular Campaign to capture Richmond, largely blamed on McClellan's repeated delays in employing his troops, was a contributing factor to his ouster as commander and paved the way for Ulysses S. Grant to emerge as the Union’s top general.

–– Jim Davidson

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

JONES MILL POND

Where — Located at the Kilometer 15 mark on the Colonial Parkway, six miles northwest of Yorktown. Big omission — The origin of the pond. A Cultural Landscape Report conducted 1997 notes that James W. Custis owned the property in 1871 when he contracted with sharecropper Ismael Jones, who eventually bought the property and gave his name to Jones Pond. Perhaps the best known celebrity-to-be connection was that of George Custer of Little Big Horn infamy. As a lieutenant in the Union Army he led an advance across the dam on May 5, 1862, during the Battle of Williamsburg.

Small omission — When the Parkway opened in 1935, Jones Mill Pond was considered one of its most scenic vistas. It is included in the National Scenic Byways Program.

Update — The pond was at the center of a prolonged dispute between York County and the Navy. The county planned to build a municipal golf course nearby and hoped to tap the pond for irrigation. The Navy refused for years, finally giving in a few years ago. Hawks Nest Golf Course will open to the public in 2010.

— Rusty Carter

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

RINGFIELD PLANTATION Where –– Colonial Parkway, 21/2 miles east of Penniman Road.

Big omission –– The Ringfield Plantation “Great House” was built sometime during 1693-98. The house and land were sold to the federal government in 1920 to become part of the Yorktown Naval Mine Depot (now the Naval Weapons Station). The “Great House” mysteriously burned that same year. Small omission –– Ringfield Plantation sits in an area along the York River originally referred to as Chiskiack (or Kiaskiack). The Chiskiack’s were one of the more aggressive tribes of the Powhatan Confederation in attempting to stem the spread of the English settlements.

Update — Ringfield gained unwanted noteriety in 1986 when it was associated with the first of what became known as the Parkway Murders, which remain unsolved. A few years later a picnic area bearing the Ringfield name developed a reputation as a clandestine meeting place for gays, and the Park Service closed it for good. The picnic area near town was closed as well.

–– Jim Davidson

WASABI Oriental Buffet

Lunch

Dinner

11 am – 3:3O pm

3:30 pm – after

Mon. – Fri., Sat. – Sun.

$6.99

By Mike Hu

GREAT SUSHI BAR HAWAII BBQ MONGOLIAN GRILL

$1O.99

(additional $2 for Snow Crab Legs)

Children 3-9 years old $3.99 $5.99

15% OFF All buffet meals.

Excluding beverages. Tax not included. Expires 11/30/2010.

12O3 Richmond Rd. Williamsburg

757-645-3988

186014X

M–Th,11am-1Opm; F–Sat,11am-11pm Sunday,11am-1Opm

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

A History of Spoiling Williamsburg’s Birds

NATHANIEL BACON

For 20 Years

Where –– On the Colonial Parkway near Yorktown.

Come by and find out what your neighbors and their birds are squawking about.

Big omission –– Col. Bacon’s relationship to the rebel Nathaniel Bacon Jr. is disputed. “Jamestown Colony” by Frank Grizzard and 186104X

We’ve been spoiling Williamsburg’s birds for 20 years!

Boyd Smith lists him as a cousin. Another source contends he was the rebel’s uncle. Col. Bacon was Commissioner of York County and for more than three decades served as a member of the governor’s Council of State. As the council president, Bacon twice assumed the duties of governor, first in 1684 when the appointed governor left briefly, and again in 1688-90.

Small omission –– The elder Bacon petitioned Royal Gov. William Berkeley to pardon Nathaniel Bacon the rebel, even though the insurgents occupied his home on King’s Creek during the rebellion and took his wife hostage. Col. Bacon claimed the rebellion cost him 1,000 pounds sterling.

Update –– Col. Bacon’s tomb is in the burial ground of the Ringfield family, whose plantation bordered the York River along today’s

Monticello Marketplace 4640-11B Monticello Ave. (757) 253-0873 Your Local Backyard Birdfeeding Specialist! 54

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

Colonial Parkway. The National Park Service closed a picnic area named for the Ringfields in the late 1980s after it became notorious for illicit activity.

–– Dinah Mackenzie

Come see our great one-story ranch homes!

HAS BEEN VOTED ONE OF THE NATION’S

TOP 5 ACTIVE ADULT COMMUNITIES* 15,000 square-foot Residents’ Club featuring: Elegant ballroom for community and private functions • Billiards and game rooms Indoor and outdoor pool and spa • Aerobics studio and fitness center

HOMES HOMES FROM FROM THE THE LOW LOW 300’S 300’S

Experience Carefree Living. Williamsburg’s Premier Custom Home Community for Active Adults Our elegant ballroom is available for your special occasion Outside caterers welcome Call 645-3000 for more information

The Settlement Realty www.thesettlement.net (757) 645-3000 | (866) 779-9976 4101 Monticello Avenue • Williamsburg, VA 23188 Sales Office Hours Monday – Saturday 10a – 5p, Sunday 1–5p *

Source: TopRetirements.com

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

CHEATHAM ANNEX

Where –– On the Colonial Parkway, near Felgates Creek. Big omission –– Cheatham Annex was commissioned in 1943 to provide bulk storage and supply support for the Navy. As one of the few Naval supply depots left in the country, it remains as important today as it was when the complex opened 67 years ago. It was named in honor of Rear Admiral Joseph J. Cheatham, chief of what would later become the Naval Supply Systems Command.

Small omission — The area encompassing Cheatham Annex was once part of a large munitions complex owned by E.I. DuPont Nemour. The complex (named “Penniman” after a DuPont chemist) produced black powder and functioned as a shell-loading industrial area that reportedly employed 15,000 people during and after World War I. Today, Cheatham Annex’s 1,600 acres contain several naval warehouses, wildlife areas and portions of the “Lost Town” of Penniman. Update — Cheatham Annex may also contain the site of a failed Spanish Jesuit colony dating to 1570-72. –– Jim Davidson

: e Must Have

My New Hom

Charm Quality Care pointments p a o t n io t a t r Transpo gramming o r P l ia c o S Various

Wish lists can come true!

CHECK AND

OUT

DOMINION VILLAGE

W I L L I A M S B U RG

“ASSISTED LIVING AT ITS BEST” OFF YOUR LIST.

You know what you want in an assisted living community. What if you could find it all in one place? At Dominion Village at Williamsburg, we’ve got your living options covered.

4132 Longhill Road • Williamsburg, VA 23188 Pet Friendly

WWW.DOMINIONVILLAGEWILLIAMSBURG.COM

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

BELLFIELD PLANTATION

Where –– On the Colonial Parkway, near the Naval Weapons Station. Big omission –– No tobacco was better known than the famous “E Dees” or “E.D.” brand produced at Bellfield. Rev. Hugh Jones asserted that his tobacco excelled due to a particular seed and crop management rather than by the quality of the soil. In 1811 the plantation was advertised for sale as “1,000 acres in York County, the only estate where the famous E.D. tobacco was raised, which never failed to bring in England one shilling on the pound, when other tobacco would not bring in three pence.”

Small omission –– Even though attempts at silk production were abandoned at Bellfield in favor of tobacco, owner Edward Digges had inscribed on his tombstone: “the only promoter of the silk industry.” Not exactly true. Update — The plantation lies within Naval Weapons Station Yorktown. The only remnants are foundation of the house and a cemetery along nearby Digges Road, one of two roads named on the base for the site. Nearby mulberry trees at one time were used for the cultivation of silkworms.

The Bellfield cemetary

–– Katelin Hill

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

INDIAN FIELD CREEK

Where –– On the Colonial Parkway, near Cheatham Annex.

Big omission –– Most scholars concur that land between today’s Indian Field Creek and Queens Creek was the site of a Spanish Jesuit mission started in 1570. That was nearly four decades before the English arrived at Jamestown. Had the mission taken hold, America might well have become a Spanish territory.

Small omission –– The arrival of the Society of Martin’s Hundred may have hastened the departure of the Chiskiack Indians. Society investors hoped, in the words of Ivor Noel Hume, to “buy out the Indians of Chiskiack” to expand their holdings, as cited in Martha McCartney’s history of James City. Most of the deaths from the 1622 Indian Uprising occurred at Martin’s Hundred. Update — All of Indian Field Creek is on federal property. The mouth of the creek is part of the Colonial Parkway owned by the National Park Service. The remainder flows through Naval Weapons Station Yorktown.

–– Rusty Carter

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

POWHATAN’S VILLAGE Where –– On the Colonial Parkway near Indian Field Creek.

Big omission –– “Across the York River” was about as accurate as historians could surmise as to the whereabouts of Werowocomoco when the marker was erected. Its location was confirmed in 2003, two years after landowners Bob and Lynn Ripley granted access to archaeologists. The site is on Purton Bay in Gloucester, across the river from York River State Park, some 15 miles northeast of Jamestown. Small omission –– The site was first registered with Virginia’s Department of Historic Resources in 1977. Daniel Mouer, an archaeologist at Virginia Commonwealth University, collected surface artifacts just as the Ripleys did after buying the property in 1996. Mouer determined the area was the possible site of Werowocomoco.

Update –– Carbon dating from samples found in 2003 suggest that Werowocomoco was significant a century or more before Powhatan became the leader of the region’s Indian tribes. Two parallel ditches, a Native American feature, appear to date to 1400-1460. –– Katelin Hill

Waltrip Recycling, Inc. We offer a wide variety of services to meet all your landscaping needs.

172565X

• • • • • • • • • •

Hardwood Mulch Shredded Pine Blends Color Enhanced Mulch High Organic Compost Mushroom Compost Turf Top Dressing Custom Soil Blends Playground Material Erosion Control Materials Back Filling Foundations

Keep It GREEN and CLEAN by Disposing of your GREEN waste (brush, branches, trees) at Waltrip Recycling.

Residential & Commercial Mulch Pickup or Delivery

Commercial Wood Processing

757-229-0434

www.waltriprecycling.com

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

YORK RIVER

Where –– Colonial Parkway, opposite Naval Weapons Station.

Big omission –– The York played a pivotal part in the final throes of the Siege at Yorktown when Lord Cornwallis tried to escape by sailing to Gloucester Point in the middle of the night. A sudden squawl upset his tiny fleet and scattered his smaller boats downstream, and the seasick soldiers were easily captured on the shoreline. With the battle of the Capes lost and the river sealed off by Rochambeau, Cornwallis was trapped by the very river he exploited in the first place. He turned back and surrendered the next day.

Small omission –– The river originates almost as far north as Fredericksburg, where travelers along Interstate 95 cross the rivers Matta, Po and Ni which eventually form up as one of two rivers feeding the York. The Pamunkey and Mattaponi converge at West Point.

Update –– The county has 202 miles of shoreline, much of it along the York River. Camp Peary, Cheatham Annex, Naval Weapons Station and the Yorktown Coast Guard Training Center share the waterfront with the soon-to-close Western Refinery and the Dominion Virginia Power power plant. Riverwalk at Yorktown represents the county’s biggest investment in tourism-retail promotion. A walkway connects it to the Yorktown Victory Center and Colonial National Park Service Visitor Center. On the Gloucester side, the Virginia Institute of Marine Science studies pollution in the river and the Chesapeake Bay.

–– Bill O’Donovan The York River was instrumental in Cornwallis’ surrender.

60 ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

NAVAL WEAPONS STATION Where –– Colonial Parkway, along the York River.

Big omission –– The site was seized by the government through presidential proclamation. The acquisition displaced the DuPont Co., which had recently built but never began production on a dynamite plant. Thousands of civilians as well were forced to leave their homes. Many black landowners and tenants relocated to nearby Grove. John Pack Roberts, a self-educated farmer, helped neighbors gain proper compensation from the government.

Small omission –– An explosion in 1943 claimed seven lives. The base played an important role during World War II, serving as storage for highly explosive weapons including torpedoes and bombs. Nuclear weapons are officially excluded, which raises the question of what the nuclear subs are reloading.

Update –– The Naval Weapons station is one of three installations eyed for consolidating 800 Marines in a Security Force Regiment. -- Katelin Hill

We can BUILD your custom home. We can FLIP – We can REMODEL. We can CREATE whatever you like.

Hertzler Brothers, Inc. Celebrating 50 Years

Visit us online at www.hertzlerbrothers.com

186274X

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

FUSILIERS REDOUBT

WHEN PLANNING YOUR NEXT GOLF VACATION, SPECIAL EVENT, OR DINING EXPERIENCE CHOOSE THE COLONIAL HERITAGE CLUB IN WILLIAMSBURG. OUR STAFF OF HOSPITALITY PROFESSIONALS WILL GO BEYOND YOUR EXPECTATIONS TO ENSURE YOUR TIME WITH US IS UNFORGETTABLE.

“ALWAYS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC FOR AN EXCEPTIONAL GOLF AND DINING EXPERIENCE”

Where –– Route 238 entrance to the Colonial Parkway, opposite the Yorktown Victory Center.

Big omission –– The last holdout by the British, this little fortress proved impenetrable from Washington’s forces. Instead, he had Lafayette go the other way and seize redoubts 9 and 10 at the eastern end of the seige line. The Fusiliers survived in part because their post was on high ground and was bordered on one side by a cliff over the York River. Only after the signing of the surrender did the Fusiliers finally capitulate.

6500 ARTHUR HILLS DRIVE WILLIAMSBURG, VA 23188 (757) 645-2000 www.colonialheritageclub.com

Small omission –– Before the siege, Cornwallis considered sailing 2,500 troops under the Fusiliers Redoubt up the York River and into Queens Creek to surprise the allies at Capitol Landing. Who knows if such a surprise attack could have turned the tide of war?

Update –– “Fraises” is what engineers call the pikes or logs with sharpened tips that are lined up into the ground to repel an attack. The National Park Service has to replace them every so often due to deterioration from humidity and weather. 186281X

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

–– Bill O’Donovan

SEAFORD Where –– Seaford Road, near the intersection of Back Creek Road.

Big omission –– The area was once home to Algonquian-speaking Indians, who were united in the early 17th century by Chief Wahunsunacock (later called Powhatan).

Small omission –– Seaford was settled and continued to be a thriving fishing and seafood processing village until a recent influx of people looking for prime waterfront property. DeAlba and Sparrer were common surnames in these industries, and streets were named after them. In years past, barges would come in to pick up vegetables from the fields and deliver them to Maryland and Washington. Anything past the Post Office was called “Down the Neck.” Update –– Until the arrival of new property owners, residents pronounced the name “Seafoord.” Now most of them pronounce the name “Seafurd.” All of Seaford, which today has about 3,500 residents, lies in a flood plain.

–– Don Wiggins

GOODWIN NECK Where –– The end of Goodwin Neck Road, just past

the oil refinery in Yorktown.

Big omission –– Dandy was home of Les Dawson’s Crab Factory, famous for its prestige and quality backfin. Regular customers included members of President Lyndon Johnson’s staff as well as passsengers from the cruise liner Queen Mary and other ships. Small omission –– Home of Belvin Boat Works, builder of the famous Belvin Dead Rise workboats for three generations until fiberglass took over the boat industry.

Update –– In 2006 former refinery owner BP partnered with the Nature Conservancy to donate 655 acres of undeveloped land, part of which lies just east of Goodwin Neck Road. Virginia’s Department of Game & Inland Fisheries accepted the property into its system of wildlife management areas.

–– Don Wiggins ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

North Carolina Furniture & Mattress www.ncfurniture.com

CHARLES CHURCH

Where –– Near the intersection of Yorktown Road and Hampton Highway, south of Yorktown.

Big omission –– The register of Charles Church is one of two

Peninsula’s Authorized Stressless Dealer

surviving colonial church records of York County. It spans 1648-1789 with earlier entries than any other Virginia church record book. The register contains more than 3,500 entries of birth with the names of the parents and date of birth. There are nearly 2,000 death records with full names and sometimes the name of a spouse or parent.

Stressless® is proudly endorsed by the American Chiropractic Association.

Small omission –– An act of government gave the church its current

181386d

421 Denbigh Blvd. Newport News, VA 23608 1.800.913.9138 757.877.5642

STORE HOURS: Mon., Thurs., Fri. & Sat., 10am-6pm Sunday, 1pm to 6 pm Closed Tuesday and Wednesday ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

name. Originally it was known as Charles Parish at New Poquoson, one of three parishes in York.

Update — Information from the Charles Church registry has provided key information for countless genealogy searches. References to the church records are common on Internet pages about early Virginia families.

–– Katelin Hill

NTRODUCING ...

Capitoll Landingg Green • 1 Block from Historic Area • New Energy Efficient Homes • First Floor Master Suites • 12 Single Family Homes • 4 Duplex Homes • Maintained Yards • Low Williamsburg Tax Rate

View from Capitol Landing Road

Capitol Landing Green...A gem, close in

186131

For Pre-construction Sales & Information

757-592-3303

www.clgreen.net ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

YORK COUNTY

Where — Route 17, up from I-64, just over the Newport News line.

Big omission — The strict chronology is breathtaking for subordinating the siege of 1781 that put the county on the map. At Yorktown, Washington and Lafayette closed in on Lord Cornwallis after Rochambeau defeated the British fleet off the Capes. Thus was sealed the fate of the Revolutionary War and the future of the United States. Devotees of roadside historical markers can argue that the siege was covered in 19 words by another sign seven miles away –– in Lee Hall, of all places.

Small omission — Three military bases and the CIA training base at Camp Peary make York unique for dominance by the federal government in terms of land and waterfront. Update — The county evolved into a bedroom community of Newport News and eventually developed a dynamic economy of industry, commercial and retail enterprises. Today Route 17 is the “Main Street” of the county, running from the Coleman Bridge to Newport News. The upper county developed into a major commercial corridor by exploiting Route 199. –– Bill O’Donovan

Live the Good Life Williamsburg’s newest luxury adult apartments offers those lucky enough to be 62 or better a luxury lifestyle at an affordable price. Finely appointed apartments; two chef-prepared meals served daily in our elegant dining room; private clubhouse; and much more. It’s time to start living the good life!

Call Lisa at 757-345-2995 or visit: VerenaAtTheReserve.com 121 Reserve Way at 4300 Mooretown Road,Williamsburg *Except phone. Verena at The Reserve is age qualified; residents must be 62 or better. Prices, availability and amenities are subject to change without notice.

ROADSIDE HISTORY | SEPTEMBER 2010

www.VerenaAtTheReserve.com

LOVE YOUR

LAWN SAVE THE

BAY W W W. H E RT Z L E R A N D G E O R G E . C O M

10 %

OFF

Limited time o ffe Call fo r detai r. ls

We talk about saving the Bay. Now, you can actually do something. Our eco-friendly lawn care helps keep the Bay free of excess fertilizers and chemicals that threaten wildlife. We’re the ONLY local landscaper certified by the prestigious Chesapeake Club.

Call Us Today 757 • 229 • 9668 Do something beautiful for your lawn ...and for our endangered Bay heritage.

A Lifetime in Furniture; Furniture for a Lifetime. We've spent a lifetime catering to the custom furniture needs of homeowners and designers throughout the nation. Our property was paid off long ago, so we can offer you the finest selections for less, actually 30 to 60 percent below list price. Much of what we have on display can't be seen anywhere else, except in catalogs. We invite you to come, bask in the heritage and charm of America's colonial capital, and see, first hand, the outstanding and unique furniture collections on display now at The Shops at Carolina Furniture of Williamsburg.

Delivering Furniture Worldwide Since 1975 Mon.-Thurs. & Sat. 9-6pm • Fri. 9-9pm • Sun. 1-6pm 5425 Richmond Rd. (Rt. 60), Williamsburg, VA 23188 (757) 565-3000 • (800) 582-8916

Browse 24 hours a day at www.carolina-furniture.com