Lookeast February 2014

LIFESTYLE

HOTELS

DINING

NIGHTLIFE

SHOPPING

EVENTS

PERSONALITIES

ART

CULTURE

SPAS

Fashion

EST. 1971

FEBRUARY ISSN 0857-1139

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February 2014

VIENTIANE,

mon amour

Mini Guide

BUSINESS INSIGHTS:

2013, The Most Successful Year in Thai Tourism History

F ebruary 2 0 1 4 V O L . 4 3 N O . 2

The

to Udon Thani

BANGKOK’S COSMOPOLITAN CONTEMPORARY ART SCENE

CULTURE:

Makha Bucha Day

PROPERTYissue Outlook of the Real Estate Scenario in Bangkok

www.lookeastmagazine.com

thb100

scalini presents the love scene

four course chef egidio price 2,500++/person* created by

additional 1,500++/couple to get one night stay** wine pairing available by roberto visaggio information date 14-16 february reservation 02-6206666

*Tables need to be booked at least 24 hours in advance **Rooms must be used on the night of the dinner only (14-16 February 2014)

WHAT'S INSIDE FEBRUARY

FEBRUARY 2014 CALENDAR

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10 What’s On 36 Hotel Deals 60 Spa Offers 66 Dining Specials 71 Bar Specials

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LOOKEAST | WHAT'S INSIDE

14 Culture: Makha Bucha Day Feature: 18 Vientiane, Mon Amour 26 Trang’s Koh Mook and Its Emerald Cave Mini Guide: 22 Vientiane, Laos 24 Udon Thani Business Insights: 30 2013: The Most Successful Year in Thai Tourism History 32 Thailand: An Aviation Hub with a Difference Itineraries: 34 Fun things to do in Bangkok!

35 Visiting Thailand Versus Living There 36 Hotel Deals 38 My Favorite Place: Ubon Ratchathani, by interior and landscape designer ML Poomchai Chumbala 72 Hotel Directory

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WHAT'S INSIDE FEBRUARY

FEBRUARY 2014 LIFESTYLE 40 Cover story: Outlook of the Real Estate Scenario in Bangkok; advice from experts in the architectural, construction, and legal sectors; hotels with outstanding architecture 48 Personalities: Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef for 2014, Lanshu Chen (Taiwan) 50 Fashion: Geometric Inspiration Shopping: Shop Till You Drop!

56 Art: Bangkok’s Cosmopolitan Contemporary Art Scene 62 Sports: Cycling

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WINE&DINE Restaurants: 64 Tribeca: New York State of Mind 65 Chili Hip & Walk: Walk and Chill on a Hip Rooftop at Pratunam Bars: 68 Cellar 11: Wine & Dine in French Style 70 Ocean Bangkok: An Urban Oasis 74 Restaurant Directory

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EDITOR'S LETTER

THE SUN ALWAYS SHINES AFTER THE STORM

W Apparel by Burberry Photo by Alisa Hubert

hile countries in the Southern hemisphere are celebrating the summer, we in Thailand have been experiencing cooler temperatures.

Although we’ve seen the tourism industry deeply affected by the political situation in the country, we also realize there is an opportunity for those tourists who do make it to Bangkok to enjoy increased sales when shopping and less crowded tourist attractions when out seeing the sights.

And there are also many more fun activities to enjoy in the city and around this month. Celebrate a different Valentine’s Day by participating in one of the most important dates in the Buddhist calendar: Makha Bucha Day. Get to know Trang’s Koh Mook and its Emerald Cave, visit Ubon Ratchathani and Udon Thani, and discover Vientiane’s French colonial charm in our ASEAN featured country of the month, Laos.

With the advice of experts in the real estate sector, we will explore the outlook

of its scenario in Bangkok, and while our fashion photographer got inspired by the geometric lines of architecture and garments, we also explored some outstanding design hotels in the country.

We interviewed Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef for 2014, Lanshu Chen, from Taiwan, as a preview of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants award ceremony, which will take place in Singapore on February 24. This month we’ve also added a new regular section about Itineraries, and we will give you all the information you need on cycling in Thailand. And if all this is not enough entertainment, visit with us one of Bangkok’s contemporary art galleries or one of our featured bars and restaurants this month: Tribeca, Chili Hip & Walk, Cellar 11, and Ocean Bangkok.

“If it rains, let it rain; if the wind blows, let it blow,” said Japanese Zen master and abbot, Ikkyū, back in the 15th century. This is an invitation to get out and enjoy the weather as it is, in the fantastic city that Bangkok is.

Anita Zaror Editor-in-Chief

FRONT COVER

Iniala

Iniala Beach House Phuket’s newest luxury resort.

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Alisa Hubert Photography +66 878 088 829 www.alisahubert.com alisa.paris2010@gmail.com

Model : Vachini Krairiksh Dress : Zuza Stylist : Chotiga Pormjak Lighting : Thanyarat Phumpaka Make up : Pa Purita Make Up Assistant : Montira Kwanpan Photographer : Alisa Hubert

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Dave Stamboulis A Greek-American travel writer and professional photographer based in Bangkok. His photos are represented by Getty Images and Alamy, and he is a writer for Fodor’s guidebook to Thailand and Laos, as well as for USA Today’s “Bangkok Expert” travel website.

Federico Brandi An international affairs specialist with focus on ASEAN countries, Federico fell in love with Thailand and lives in Bangkok after working in external affairs, policy analysis, and development projects in Italy, Belgium, Switzerland, Malaysia, and East Timor.

EST. 1971

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Publisher Sid Sehgal sid@thesehgalgroup.com Editor-in-Chief Anita Zaror editor@lookeastmagazine.com Editorial Assistant Coco Lavender edassistant@lookeastmagazine.com Copyeditor Melanie Blake Art Director Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Photographer Alisa Hubert

Jimmy Jacquet Hailing from France’s southwest, Jimmy Jacquet—an MBA in business management working in the hospitality industry in Thailand—started water skiing at the age of two, and he has been practicing wakeboarding and participating in competitions for eight years.

Laurence Civil “Life is all about taste and style” are Laurence’s words to live by.

Twenty-three years working for a British airline gave him his passion for food, wine, and travel, and a visit to China in the ’80s inspired his earlier stories. His articles have been published in Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Bangkok since 1994.

M.L. Poomchai Chumbala An avid traveller and well-known interior and landscape designer, M.L. Poomchai Chumbala was born in Thailand but grew up in the U.K.. He returned to Thailand to lecture in Chiang Mai for several years. He now lives in Bangkok and owns the very elegant Agalico Tea & Coffee House. He is well versed in Thai art, history, and culture.

Richard Mcleish Richard is a Bangkok-based freelance lifestyle writer from Melbourne.

While he was on a lifelong mission to learn more about the world, the City of Angels intervened six years ago and has held him captive ever since. When not sniffing out new bars, bands, and beaches, he is writing about them for glossies, broadsheets, and zines.

Special thanks to: Asia Books Manunsinee Footrakul, Gaysorn Lifestyle Image Consultant Siam Paragon

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Other contributors: Constanza Hernandez (Itineraries) ML Poomchai Chumbala (My Favorite Place) James Pitchon (Property) Sirichot Chaiyachot (Property) Uthai Uthaisangsuk (Property) Rachoat Wannakanok (Property)

Production Director Apichart Boontid Marketing Executive Ankita Malhotra ankita@thesehgalgroup.com PR Consultant Earth Saisawang Executive Assistant to Chairman Acharin Suthisawad acharin@thesehgalgroup.com Executive Assistant to CEO Panitkan Apiratanapimonchai panitkan@thesehgalgroup.com

President Ravi Sehgal Group Publishing Director Asha Narula Sehgal Executive Director Gaurav Sehgal

EST. 1971

Imtiaz Muqbil Imtiaz Muqbil, Executive Editor of Travel Impact Newswire, is one of the Asia-Pacific region’s longest serving travel industry journalists. The winner of two PATA awards for travel journalism, he is the author of the only two English-language books ever written about the historic 1987 Visit Thailand Year and its aftermath.

is published monthly by: Advertising & Media Consultants Co., Ltd. Richmond Office Building 18th floor 75/65 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Tel: + 66 2 204 2449 Fax: + 66 2 204 2984 Email: info@lookeastmagazine.com Web: www.lookeastmagazine.com Views and opinions expressed by individual writers and contributors in the articles herein, do not necessarily reflect those of Lookeast magazine or of Advertising Media Consultants Co., Ltd. All prices are correct at the time of going to press, but are subject to change.

Reproduction in whole or part without written consent from Lookeast is strictly forbidden.

WHAT'S ON FEBRUARY

Angsana Gallery Ushers In Year of the Horse with Lifestyle Collection

What: To commemorate the Year of the Horse, Angsana Gallery unveils its new horse collection, comprising a selection of deftly designed clutch bag, cardholders, coin purses, table runners, placemats, and scarfs, all adorned with the sturdy animal.

When: Daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Where: Angsana Gallery Laguna Phuket (●10 Zone A Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, Amphur Talang, Phuket), and Banyan Tree Gallery shops in Bangkok, Phuket, and Samui How much: Clutch bag THB 1,790; cardholder THB 1,190; coin purse THB 690; scarf THB 2,190; table runner THB 1,990; placemat THB 790 More info: 076 324 101, www.angsanagallery.com

Super Bowl Party and Breakfast

What: Don’t miss out getting “Game Pass Tickets” to watch the Super Bowl this month. Enjoy eggs Benedict, pancakes, smoked bacon, New Orleans French Market doughnuts, and other American and Thai goodies, while watching the game.

When: February 3, open at 5:30 a.m., buffet starts at 6 a.m., game starts at 6:15 a.m.

Where: Bourbon St. Restaurant, Oyster Bar and Boutique Hotel (●9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai) How much: THB 650 including breakfast buffet, hot coffee and tea, soft drinks, and juices; THB 100 for Bloody Marys, screwdrivers, domestic beers (bottle or draft) More info: 02 381 6801, 02 381 6802, 02 381 6803, www.bourbonstbkk.com

Tarot, Quantum Chakra Balancing, and More

What: Omroom is offering a variety of sessions to be held by its in-house practitioners: tarot, yoga, Family Constellation (intuitive therapy), reiki, crystal healing, kids’ yoga, Healing Channels (energy healing), white light healing, Qi Gong, Light Ways (energy healing), meditation, and Quantum chakra balancing. Simply book 24 hours in advance.

When: Monday to Friday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Where: Omroom (●25 Soi Chidlom) How much: Varies More info: 081 4228171, mutsumi@ omroom.net, www.omroom.net

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LOOKEAST | WHAT'S ON

“Lui e Lei” Valentine’s Day Romance at Rossini’s What: Celebrate this Valentine’s Day with Chef Paride’s five-course “Lui e Lei” menu, consisting of different dishes for her and him. The romantic meal begins with an appetizer of seared foie gras, grape sauce, and celery root for her, and seared lobster, baby globe artichoke, and basil oil for him.

There will also be a different soup, main course, and dessert for him and for her, besides coffee, tea, and a selection of sweet treats.

When: February 10–16, lunch Monday to Friday from 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner Monday to Sunday from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Where: Rossini’s, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (●250 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok) How much: THB 6,000++ per couple More info: 02 6498364, dining.sgs@ luxurycollection.com, www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

Avril Lavigne Live in Bangkok 2014

What: The pop-punk princess Avril Lavigne is on her way back to Bangkok to kick-start 2014 in high style. Lavigne has just released her latest self-titled album which has debuted in the Top 5 album charts across the globe, and already has spawned three hit singles which reached No. 1on the iTunes chart on its first day of release.

When: February 11 at 8:30 p.m. (gate opens at 7 p.m.)

Where: Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani (●99 Popular Road, T. Banmai, A. Pakkred, Nonthaburi) How much: Ticket prices are THB 1,000/2,000/2,500 3,500/4,500 More info: 02 2623838, www.thaiticketmajor.com

: Valentine's Special

So Sweet Valentine At Sofitel So Bangkok

What: This Valentine's Day, couples will have the choice of seven dining atmospheres offering seven different ways to express your love, including a casual buffet dinner at Red Oven, an exquisite Valentine’s afternoon tea, and set dinners at The Water Club, Solarium, and Park Society.

When: February 14–16 Where: Sofitel So Bangkok (●2 North Sathorn Road, Bangrak) How much: Buffet dinner at Red Oven, THB 1,500 and THB 1,800 with free flow wine, per person; Valentine Afternoon Tea at MIXO, THB per couple; 4-course set dinner at The Water Club (poolside), THB 7,500 per couple including a glass of Champagne per person; 4-course set dinner (theme: Garden of Eden) at Solarium, THB 7,500 per couple including a glass of Champagne per person; 5-course set dinner at Park Society, THB 11,000 per couple including a glass of Champagne per person; Valentine’s Day Platter at Park Society Terrace, THB 6,000 per couple including a glass of Champagne per person; 6-course gastronomic dinner for two at The Box, THB 28,000 per couple including a personal Maitre d’hôtel at your service, a bottle of Dom Perignon, and a bouquet of red roses. All prices are net.

More info: 02-6240000, h6835-fb3@sofitel.com

SHOW REVIEW Broadway Babe: “Back to Basics”

by Kompalya Thunderbird Kristen Evelyn Rossi, Bangkok’s Broadway Babe (●www. broadwaybabeasia.com, www.facebook. com/broadwaybabeasia), dazzled the stage in “Back to Basics” on December 16, 2013. A one-woman show filled with numbers that captivated the audience from show tunes to swingin’ jazz, blues, and pop hits. The audience swayed to her natural rhythms and was encouraged to snap, clap or sing along to their favorite melodies. It was an enchanting night held at Smiles Jazz and Bistro located just off of Ploenchit BTS on Soi Raum Ruedi, an intimate setting with red velvet curtains, dim lighting, and a full house set the milieu for the evening.

In a stunning gold glittering gown by Suwannee by Sam, that fit her frame from curve to curve, she looked like royalty opening the night with the upbeat “Route 66,” her energy taking over the room.

Elegant gown aside, it did not stop this showgirl from dancing and twirling about.

Kristen didn’t miss a beat as she showed off her dancing talent to jazzy tunes, “The

The 18th Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony

What: The Trang Chamber of Commerce, in association with local authorities and private sector organizations, has launched the 18th Anniversary of “Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony 2014” event to promote tourism opportunities in the province. Watch couples getting married in Trang this Valentine’s Day … or make a booking in advance next year to get married yourself!

When: February 10–12 Where: Trang How much: A number of packages are available through the Trang Chamber of Commerce starting from THB 35,000 More info: trangchamber@hotmail.com, 075 210 238

Lady is a Tramp,” “How About You” and “I’ve Got a Woman,” which she dedicated to her mom for being “her biggest fan.”

Accompanied by the outstanding Khun Beep on piano and Khun Golf on bass, she made a point to bring them into the show as well by flirting and joking in between songs, popping onto the piano, and giving the occasional serenade.

With her audience glued to the stage, Kristen proved that Back to Basics is another step forward in her movement to bring Broadway style to Southeast Asia.

A movement she leads using “Broadway Babe” as the heart and soul.

Kristen grew up in New York with a love for musical theatre which led to pursuing a BA in theater in Pittsburgh.

In 2007 she took a chance and came to Asia. Realizing a gap in the entertainment market, she started Broadway Babe, alongside then co-producer Justin Brooks, to offer Asia high-quality Broadway-style shows. The New York diva now residing in Bangkok, and she says, “Bangkok is home.

So, fellow Bangkokians, if you have yet to catch a show, be sure to stay tuned as this diva is bound to keep turning heads.”

Visit www.broadwaybabeasia.com and “Broadway Babe Asia” for information on her upcoming show this spring.

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WHAT'S ON FEBRUARY

EVENT PREVIEW

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants

Sponsored by S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, and organized by William Reed Business Media, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants (●www.theworlds50best.com/asia) will welcome some of the world’s leading chefs to Singapore on February 23 and 24, to participate in a series of interactive workshops and a forum on global culinary trends. The two-day event will offer a unique opportunity for the culinary industry and members of the public to hear from and interact with the world’s most prominent chefs.

“What does it mean to you personally to be here, representing your restaurant on a big stage?”

“What will attendees learn from your ‘Authenticity’ presentation at Asia’s 50 Best Forum? What are the key messages you hope they take with them?”

Chef Joan Roca, El Celler de Can Roca restaurant (Spain), ranked No. 1 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013: “It’s an opportunity to learn and meet its cuisine, its interesting traditional techniques and creating synergy with the local chefs. It also means having the chance of presenting our kitchen outside its walls.”

Shop For a Cause

Chef Ben Shewry, Attica restaurant (Australia), ranked No. 21 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013: “I always love coming to Singapore; this will be my fourth visit.

In particular I love eating from the hawker markets and visiting my friends like Ryan Clift (Tippling Club) and Andre Chiang (Restaurant ANDRE).”

Chef Andre Chiang, ANDRE restaurant (Singapore), ranked No. 5 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013: “It’s a big responsibility because we’re not just representing my restaurant and my cuisine, we are also trying to deliver what the best in Asia can offer. So for me, it’s really more of a responsibility than a title.”

What: You are invited to enjoy a day of feel-good shopping, food and drinks, kid’s activities, silent auction with amazing prizes, and much more. Local celebrities Cindy Bishop, Ase Wang, Natalie Glebova, Emi Stames, Sonia Couling, Debbie Bazoo, Odette Henriette, Joni Anwar, and more will participate in the “Shop For a Cause” event. One hundred percent of the proceeds go to Camillian Home for Children Living with Disabilities.

When: February 9, 2014 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Where: Dusit Thani Hotel Bangkok (●946 Rama IV Road, Bangkok) How much: Silent auction starts at THB 390 up to 12,900; jumble sale’s second-hand designer items starts start at THB 150. Donations for the Camillian Home for Children Living with Disabilities welcome.

More info: www.camillianhomelatkrabang.org, www.facebook.com/Camillian.Home

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Chef David Thompson, Nahm (Thailand), ranked No. 3 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013: “It’s about authenticity and personal culinary integrity. Authenticity in traditional cuisine has consistent and known parameters, such as cultural norms. Culinary integrity, though, has to do with one’s own beliefs and personal expression rather than an expression of a communal food.

The segment I will be dealing with will follow the gamut, from the communal to the individual, and the best way that authenticity is achieved.”

American Heritage Jazz Sundays

What: Revive the music of BB King, George Benson, Dizzy Gillespie, Wynton Marsalis, Louis Armstrong, and Duke Ellington to the rhythm of Pom Armstrong & Jazz Band at the American Heritage Jazz Sundays.

When: From now until May 26, 2014, starting 6 p.m. till late Where: Roadhouse BBQ (●942/1-4 Rama 4 Road, Bangkok) How much: Varies More info: 02 236 8010, www. roadhousebarbecue.com

contemporary indian dining

Spice things up a bit Celebrate Valentine’s Day at Indus

#71 Sukhumvit Soi 26. | Tel. 02-258-4900 | www.indusbangkok.com | indus@indusbangkok.com

TRAVEL CULTURE

Makha Bucha Day is one of the most important dates in the Buddhist calendar.

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NOT YOUR USUAL VALENTINE’S DAY THIS FEBRUARY 14, THAILAND WILL CELEBRATE MAKHA BUCHA DAY BY MAKING MERIT, MEDITATING, AND OBSERVING BEAUTIFUL CANDLELIT PROCESSIONS.

by Marianna Dietrich

This public holiday celebrates an event in which 1,250 monks spontaneously went to pay homage to the Buddha nine months after he had reached enlightenment, thus marking the beginning of the concept of “sangha,” or the Buddhist community.

During this first meeting, the Buddha was said to have laid out to his followers what would become the heart of Buddhism, the “Ovadhapatimokha.” In it, the Buddha

essentially encouraged the new members of the sangha to do good, to refrain from sins and immoral acts, and to purify and cleanse the mind.

This historic meeting occurred on the third lunar month of the year, or “Makha” in Pali language, the liturgical language of Buddhists. “Bucha” in Pali means to venerate or honor, hence the name of the holiday.

Shutterstock + nattanan726

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hile on this February 14—the first full moon of the year’s third month—the world will celebrate Valentine’s Day, Thailand will be celebrating Makha Bucha Day, one of the most important dates in the Buddhist calendar, and the first of a series of Theravada Buddhist holidays that yearly commemorate milestones in the life of the historical Buddha.

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Shutterstock + Rutchapong Moolvai

TRAVEL CULTURE

Buddhist monks are given food offerings from people.

How Is It Celebrated?

A large part of the holiday involves visiting the local temple and participating in or observing various rituals. One of the most important and recognizable rituals is the “wian tian,” where monks gather at sunset holding candles, incense, and flowers, and circle the temple clockwise three times, once for each of the “triple gems” of Buddhism: the Buddha, the dharma (Buddha’s teachings), and the sangha.

Notably, His Majesty King Bhumibol traditionally presides over the wian tian during a private ceremony at the Grand Palace on Makha Bucha Day. Other rituals include: ● “Tum boon,” making merit by visiting temples, giving donations, and listening to readings of the dharma ● “Tuk bard,” making offerings of food to monks and novices ● “Rub sil,” observing the five precepts—or the basic Buddhist code of ethics—which include practicing abstinence, and refraining from immoral thoughts and activities, among others

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Meditating and renouncing material desires are another important part of this holy day, and alcohol is generally not sold in bars, restaurants, or convenience stores for 24 hours out of respect for the holiday.

Where in Thailand Is It Celebrated?

Given the importance of the holiday, most temples throughout Thailand will be open to visitors on February 14, to observe the rituals. The following are some of the more notable temples for celebrating Makha Bucha Day in and around Bangkok: Wat Benchamabophit, the Marble Temple (●69 Nakorn Pathom Rd, 02 281 2501) This beautiful marble temple, located in Dusit, is a popular spot for observing Makha Bucha Day. Wat Saket (●344 Avenue Road, 02 621 2280) At this ancient temple, monks lead a procession up the 300 steps to the golden mount with spectacular views to observe this holy day.

Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, (●Na Phra Lan Road, Phra Nakhon, 02 623 5000) The Grand Palace closes at noon on MakhaBucha Day, and the Chapel of the Emerald Buddha will be closed to tourists all day.

Wat Pak Nam (●300 Ratchamongkhon Prasart, 02 457 9042) This larger temple, known for its meditation classes, is a good place to catch the festivities.

Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan (●Ratchadamnoen Rd) Located in Nakhon Si Thammarat Province, next to the Gulf of Thailand, on Makha Bucha Day locals celebrate the “Hae Pha Khuen That Festival” in which they wrap the Phra Borom That Chedi with cloth to bring good fortune.

Makha Bucha Day is celebrated in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar, although the date of the holiday differs among the countries.

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Patuxai Arch, Vientiane, Laos

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Shutterstock + elnavegante

TRAVEL FEATURE

VIENTIANE, MON AMOUR

FALL IN LOVE EXPERIENCING TRADITIONAL LAOTIAN TEMPLES, BEAUX-ARTS BUILDINGS, AND GALLIC GASTRONOMY AND WINE IN LAOS’S CAPITAL.

by Anita Zaror

Presidential Palace

Your perambulations will probably take you to Lane Xang Avenue, Vientiane’s Champs-Elysées; to the city’s own Arc de Triomphe, Patuxai Arch, which commemorates Laotians who died in the battle to seek independence from France; to the Bibliothèque Nationale, a Frenchstyle two-storey building from 1923; or to the Lao National Museum, a former hotel built by the colonial government in the early 20th century. And you won’t miss the French restaurants, of course, where you must try the soufflés, gratins, and quiches, the duck confit, coq au vin, and pâtés, together with French wine.

Yet the French colonial charm is only one aspect of Vientiane. A second is the religious architecture of a country in which around 67 percent of the population practices Buddhism. Part of your tour through the city will also be to highly regarded monuments such as the That Luang (the Great Stupa), originally built in the 16th century, a symbol of Lao sovereignty, and an icon of Buddhism in the country; Wat Sisaket, known for its wall with thousands of niches containing images of the Buddha, and the only ancient temple that remains intact from the Siamese attack in 1828; and Xieng Khouan, also known as the Buddha Park, among others.

Buddha sculptures at Wat Sisaket

Please Don’t Rush

Just a 20-minute drive east or northwest form the city center, a third aspect of the city shows time standing still in nearby rural and semirural areas, where farmers tend rice, corn, and livestock, and where monks, nuns, and novices perform evening poojas at places like Wat Sok Pa Luang.

And this tranquility is standard in the country. Vientiane might be the capital, but except for the traffic and noise in the larger roads, you should not expect a fast-paced city to evolve in front of your eyes. And this is part of its beauty. You can either choose to get frustrated about it—and it sometimes happens—or you can choose to let go of your expectations of getting things done immediately and being understood easily.

Although the older population might speak French, the younger generations don’t, and English is not widely spoken either, even in the tourism and hospitality sectors.

Therefore, being in Vientiane will exercise your patience and make you understand the truth behind a common joke that says “PDR” stands for “Please Don’t Rush.”

Breathe deeply when you get lost in the poorly marked streets; make time to go for a run at sunrise, or to take a stroll at sunset by the Mekong; sit in one of the city’s many cafés to have mulberry tea and macarons, and to watch people and time pass by. This is also part of the Vientiane experience.

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Shutterstock + Milosz_M

–Salut, Jerome! Ça va?

she replies.

One moment: I’m having a spell of déjà vu from any given day in France. But I’m in Vientiane, having traditional Lao coffee and éclairs on the awning-covered terrace of a bakery where the bread is “baguette de tradition.” What did I miss?

Lao People’s Democratic Republic (PDR) was a part of French Indochina from the late 19th century until 1975, when communist Pathet Lao took control of the government, ending a six-centuries-old monarchy. The country and particularly its capital, Vientiane, are still a cozy French oasis in Southeast Asia. Visitors go there for business; as a stopover before continuing to other cities like Luang Prabang; and an increasing number—like me—just want to spend a few days and relax while enjoying Gallic food and wine at lower prices than in Thailand and, needless to say, than in France.

Vientiane is an easy one-hour flight from Bangkok, and the city center is around 20 minutes from the airport. A trip there from Thailand is so short and smooth, that it is the kind of getaway that can even be done over the weekend.

On the way downtown from the airport, you will probably pass by the Presidential Palace, located on the banks of the Mekong River. The Beaux-Arts palace, built in the architectural style that was synonymous with France in the 1800s, is sometimes called “mini-Versailles.” It will no doubt be the first sight of the city that will make you wonder if you’re still in Asia.

Shutterstock + Peter Stuckings

–Bonjour!

says a Frenchman pushing a baby stroller to a Laotian woman who’s coming out from Le Banneton with a freshly baked baguette in her hand.

TRAVEL FEATURE

Ansara Hotel

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Ansara Hotel

To live Vientiane’s French colonial experience to the fullest, you must stay at a hotel that reflects part of this history.

Ansara Hotel (●Fa Ngum Road, Ban Vat Chan Tha, Hom 5, Chanthabury District, Vientiane, Laos, +856 21 213 518, www.ansarahotel.com) is a boutique property with 12 rooms and two suites with Jacuzzis, and views over a quiet garden.

Located in the peaceful neighborhood of Vat Chanthabury, and just a short stroll from fabulous sunsets by the Mekong River, Ansara was built on the same land of the former Thai consul’s residence. The hotel opened its doors under this name in June 2010 and, although as its manager Zukrimin Latief explains, “Ansara in Arabic means ‘the champions,’” in this case the name is a construction formed from the initials of the names of the hotel’s LaoFrench owner, his French-Japanese wife, and their children.

The property is both elegant and relaxed, and it exudes the warmth and hospitality that only a boutique hotel can offer. Ask about things to do in the city, for example, and the hotel manager himself will sit down with you and give you the best insider tips.

“While the building with high ceilings and windows has been done in French style, the interior décor is mostly Asian,” explains Latief. A second building with 14 rooms and suites and a swimming pool are currently under construction, and they will be finished by Q1 2014.

Settha Palace

Where to Stay

Deluxe Room at Settha Palace Hotel

La Signature, its French restaurant located on the second floor, serves breakfast from 6:30 a.m. to 10 a.m., lunch from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m., and dinner from 6:30 p.m. until 9:30 p.m.. The ground-floor terrace offers outdoor dining, and the bar, French-inspired drinks.

Ansara provides an airport pick-up and drop-off service for its passengers, who are mostly European corporate travelers, as well as Chinese and Thai travelers who stay there for business or leisure.

Now if you’re looking to be a witness of a more historical Vientiane, to smell antique wood that has been there since the beginning of the 20th century, yet to enjoy a luxurious stay with contemporary comfort, Settha Palace Hotel (●6 Pang Kham Street Rue Pangkham, Vientiane, Laos, +856 21 217 5812, www.setthapalace. com) is the place to be.

Also located in the city center, within walking distance of the commercial district, restaurants and tourist attractions, the hotel is housed in a building that dates from 1932, and is a modern testimony of that long-lost era of classical elegance, gracious service, and French colonial charm. Still owned by the same family that ran it in its heyday, the hotel has been sensitively restored in creamy ivory and natural rosewood décor.

With 29 spacious deluxe rooms, junior suites, and executive suites, perfectly manicured gardens, and period furniture, “Settha Palace is definitely a special place within Vientiane, and in Laos. It’s not just the heritage and the colonial feel, but it overall provides an experience taking you back to what it has been in the 1930s and

1940s. What makes it even better now is that now there is a comfort that has been mingled together with the charm of the French colonial buildings, exteriors, and interiors: you would have a guest come in and experience the colonial elegance and charm, but then you also have the luxury of being in a resort, feeling the peace, the quietness, and experiencing what people call ‘the best swimming pool in town’,” says general manager Yeshi Phuntsho.

La Belle Epoque Restaurant, in the hands of French chef Christophe Dugas, offers a classical menu with dishes like boeuf bourguignon and confit de cuisse de canard et sa purée à l’ail, which go well with the building’s colonial feel. A selection of fine-dining typical Laotian dishes is also available, such as the delicious or lam ngoua (Luang Prabang style beef stew with vegetables and buffalo skin) and mok pa (marinated steamed tilapia wrapped in banana leaves).

Have a glass of French wine or a Settha Delice (Lao krao, Lao vodka, banana liquor, blackberry cream, cranberry juice, and pineapple juice) at La Belle Epoque Bar, open daily from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m., and soak in the atmosphere while sitting on plush loveseats or stylish Europeandesigned armchairs that are set around polished marble tabletops, while listening to Billie Holiday.

Take Settha Palace’s limousine service, a traditional London black cab, back to the airport, and wave au revoir to a city that you might grow to love for its exquisite fusion of traditional Asian style and French colonial charm.

Pha That Luang

Ceiling Mural at Patuxai Arch

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Ancient Buddhist statue in Vientiane

Shutterstock + Charlie Edward

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Shuttertock + Chantal de Bruijne

TRAVEL MINI GUIDE

City Facts

Population: Approximately 800,000 Languages: Lao (official), French, English, other ethnic languages Time: UTC+7 Currency: Lao Kip; USD 1 = LAK 7,881; THB 1 = LAK 238. THB are widely accepted.

Climate: Tropical monsoon; rainy season (May to November); dry season (December to April) More info: Tourism Laos (●www.tourismlaos.org)

LAOS

Vientiane

Vientiane

LAO PDR’S CAPITAL, WITH ITS FRENCH HERITAGE, OFFERS HISTORICAL SITES, CHEAP AND GOOD LAO MASSAGE AND SHOPPING AND, OF COURSE, DELICIOUS FRENCH FOOD.

Mini Guide Visas

Visas can be obtained from Lao embassies and consulates in your country, or on arrival at several checkpoints: international airports, and borders with China, Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. Tourist and business visas are usually issued for 30 days, and they can be extended twice in Vientiane for 30 days. Your passport must have at least six months of remaining validity and a blank page to stamp the visa stamp on. For visas on arrival, carry two passport-sized photos with you.

Weather

Vientiane has quite stable weather year round, with a minimum of 16°C to 17°C in December and January, and a maximum of 35°C to 36°C in March and April.

Getting there

Laos has 41 airports, four of them international, in Vientiane, Pakse, Luang Prabang and Savannakhet. Wattay International Airport, in Vientiane Capital, has regular services from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, Kunming, Guang Zhou, Singapore, Seoul and Kuala Lumpur.

Direct flights are also available to Luang Prabang from Bangkok, Hanoi and Chiang Mai. Lao Airlines is popular for domestic flights, and Bangkok Airways, Thai Airways International, Vietnam Airlines,

China Southern Airlines and Air Asia for international ones.

forest temple located three kilometers from the city center.

Getting around

Xieng Khuan (●Thanon Tha Deua): This sculpture park, also called Buddha Park, was built in 1958 and it features icons of the Buddhist and Hindu traditions amidst quiet and green surroundings.

Touristic places in Vientiane can visited by bicycle (LAK 10,000 per day), which can be rented from travel agencies. Moving around by a scooter will of course be faster (LAK 300,000 per day), and although it’s not easy to find the street you’re looking for, you’ll always get to your destination eventually.

Sightseeing

Patuxai (●Thanon Lan Xang): Built in 1969 and a symbol of the pre-revolutionary war, Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe replica is a particularly beautiful spot to take photos at sunset and at night.

Pha That Luang (●Thanon That Luang): A must-see monument, it is Laos’s most important symbol of Buddhism and Lao sovereignty.

Wat Si Saket and Haw Pha Kaew (●Thanon Tha Deua): More than 300 Buddhas of different sizes and styles can be found in Wat Si Saket, while Haw Pha Kaew is today a museum showcasing religious art.

Wat Sok Pa Luang (●Thanon Sok Pa Luang): Join Buddhist nuns, monks and novice monks in an afternoon pooja at this

Taste Le Vendôme (●Thanon In Paeng): Delicious gratins, wood-fired pizzas, pâtés, salads and homemade deserts, along with French wine, all at very reasonable prices.

Le Banneton (●Thanon Nokeo Khumman): Stop by for a baguette, éclairs or macarons that you enjoy seated in French style on the terrace, looking at people walking by.

Makphet (●Thanon Setthathirat): Traditional Lao food with a social mission; everything you eat and/or buy there will help local disadvantaged children.

Café Sinouk (●Rue Samsenthai): Don’t miss stopping by to try Lao’s traditional coffee with condensed milk. Yum! La Belle Epoque Restaurant (●Settha Palace Hotel, 6 Pang Kham Street): Classic French and Thai fine dining.

FEBRUARY 2014 | 23

TRAVEL MINI GUIDE

Why Go

Udon is, after Khorat, the largest city in Isaan. Like other provincial capitals, it’s also a great base for getting one’s feet wet in one of Thailand’s least toured regions.

Here locals still go out of their way to smile and invite travelers for a drink, prices are far lower than elsewhere, and good oldfashioned hospitality with a capital H is the norm. While the city itself has only a handful of “sights” (Boeng Kak Lake being pleasant enough to have a meal on the water, and the night market well worth a stopover), it isn’t too far out to reach Ban Chiang, which is a fascinating journey into archaeology. The spicy Isaan food is also a big draw for any visitor going to Udon.

What to See

Dave Stamboulis

In 1996, an American anthropologist living in the area tripped over a tree root and came face to face with painted red shards of pottery that looked to have come from another era. Further research revealed the shards to be from the Bronze Age and suggested that a thriving civilization far ahead of its time lived there in 2,000 to 3,000 BC. This place is Ban Chiang (●043 208 340, Tuesday to Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., admission THB 150), a top tourist sight in northern Isaan where a well put-together and informative museum displays skeletal remains, pottery jars, and plenty of re-creations of what the Bronze Age society might have looked like. Despite being a UNESCO site, Ban Chiang does not see too many visitors, and if you go there

The Sala Kaew Ku sculpture garden in Nong Khai

GET YOUR FEET WET DARE TO VISIT ONE OF THAILAND’S LEAST TOURED REGIONS TO DISCOVER BAN CHIANG UNESCO ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, A SURREAL SCULPTURE GARDEN, AND THE BEST OF ISAAN FOOD AT UDON THANI. don Thani often gets little more than a passing glance, and it is usually from travelers en route to extend or renew their visas over the border in Laos. Udon—as it is called by locals—is just a train stop or bus transfer point on the way to crossing the Mekong. However, Udon is actually a modern bustling city, the

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fifth largest in Thailand, with a population of 140,000. Besides being the best spot in the area to take advantage of all the amenities offered by a big city, it is also a great base for visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ban Chiang, along with touring scenic Nong Khai and the Mekong River.

Dave Stamboulis

U

by Dave Stamboulis

Ancient pottery discovered at Ban Chiang, northeastern Thailand

What to Do

While in Udon Thani, one should definitely visit the night market, which is one of the best in all the provinces and a great place to sample Isaan’s best food. Som tam (papaya salad) and grilled fish and meats rule the roost here, along with extremely spicy larb meat salads that are eaten with fingerfuls of khao niaow (sticky rice), the staple of the Isaan diet. Food is cheap, vendors are extremely helpful, and with a large population of retired expats in Udon, English explanations shouldn’t be too hard to come by. The night market is just down the road from the train station and gets going by 6 p.m. daily until late.

The Udon Thani Sunshine Orchid Farm (●Soi Kamol Watthana, Udon-Nong Samrong Road, 042 242 475, admission THB 20) is worth a look. Home to the first hybrid orchid and giving off a heavy perfume, the nursery is more noted for its “dancing” orchids, another hybrid plant whose leaves start swaying when you play music or sing to it! It’s best to go early morning or late afternoon if you want to see the plants dance.

Detail of sculputure at Sala Kaew Ku sculpture garden, Nong Khai

Dave Stamboulis

Dave Stamboulis Dave Stamboulis

during the week, you may have the place to yourself. Take a Sakhon Nakhon bus from Udon, 50 kilometers east, and then grab a tuk tuk from the junction to the site (6 kilometers away); alternatively, hire a car and driver in Udon for about THB 800 return.

Sala Kaew Ku (●081 369 5744), also known as Wat Khaek, is in Nong Khai, just under an hour from Udon. And it’s one of the northeast’s most bizarre attractions: a surreal sculpture garden with enough symbolism and imagery to baffle any theologian, and weird enough to provide entertainment to even the most jaded traveler. This odd concrete art project was created by Boon Leua Surirat, a Laotian priest who had a vision about Buddhism and the underworld, and who fled the communist authorities in Laos to create his images across the border, in Thailand. Sala Kaew Ku contains hundreds of concrete statues and figures, some of them over 30 meters high, representing images from every major Eastern religion.

Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma, Ganesh, and all the Hindu deities, as well as Buddha, human– animal hybrids, and Naga serpents are all portrayed in various representations and styles.

Bugs for sale in the Udon's night market

Eating and Drinking

Although the best overall selection of local food is in the aforementioned night market, Rabiang Phatchanee (●53/1 Bannon Rd, 042 241 515)—set on the lake in Nong Prajak Park—is a longstanding favorite among tourists and locals that serves an authentic gaeng som pla chon tawt (snakehead fish sour soup) as you can get in Isaan. For after-dinner drinking, head over to Steve’s Bar (●254/26 Prajak Rd, 042 244 523, www.udonmap.com/ stevesbar), a long-running and happening expat-run bar located downtown.

Sleeping

The Pannarai (●042 345 111, www.thepannaraihotel.com) is Udon’s most luxurious boutique lodging, with comfortable rooms and an outdoor pool; the hotel is just minutes from downtown.

The Green Gecko (●081 9180 500,

Ancient pottery discovered at Ban Chiang, northeastern Thailand

www.thaivillarent.com) is located 30 minutes out of town, in the rice fields, and is arguably the area’s most interesting accommodation, with its exclusive and private traditional Thai teak pool villa that can be rented out for getting away from it all. The villa comes complete with a personal chef and complete pampering.

Other hotels are Napalai Hotel (●572 Pracharaksa Road, 042 347 444), www. napalaihoteludon.com) and Centara Hotel & Convention Centre Udon Thani (●277/1 Prajaksillapakhom Road, 042 343 555, www.centarahotelsresorts. com/centara/cud).

How to Get There

Thai Airways (●www.thaiairways.com), Nok Air (●www.nokair.com), and Air Asia (●www.airasia.com) all have several daily departures to Udon Thani. Overnight sleeper trains also run from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong station, with some of them now continuing across the border into Laos.

Udon’s bustling bus station has departures to just about everywhere in the country, including a regular service to Bangkok, which takes about 9 to 10 hours.

FEBRUARY 2014 | 25

TRAVEL FEATURE

Dave Stamboulis

W

hile Thailand has many beautiful islands, most of them fall short in at least one department.

Some have white sand beaches, others nice resorts; several have strong local communities with village-based tourism, some have jungle, and some picturesque bays—but rarely does the whole package come all together. And then there is Koh Mook.

Koh Mook is a small island not far off the mainland in Trang province, along Thailand’s southern Andaman coast. From December through April, the sea is the color of turquoise, calm for swimming and, at least in February, the temperature is balmy. While Koh Mook may be small, it has a great mix of towering karst cliffs

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covered in jungle on its northwestern side and beautiful shallow bays toward the south. The eastern side of the island is made up of several small fishing villages, where a mostly Muslim and “chao leh” sea gypsy population makes its living from squid fishing and rubber tapping. Despite abundant enough tourism on the island, wandering around in these villages one does not see most of the tourists, which gives an excellent feel for low-key island life.

The top beaches on Koh Mook are to be found on its southwest and southeastern sides, which are just a 10-minute bicycle or motorbike ride from each other. Hat Farang, or “Foreigner’s Beach,” is probably the prettiest of the bunch, with gorgeous sunsets, a long expanse of white sand,

and some very turquoise water looking out toward neighboring Koh Kradan.

Two inexpensive places to stay there are Charlie Beach Resort (●164 Moo 2, 084 305 9867, www.kohmookcharlieresort. com) and Mook Rubber Tree (●Had Farang Beach, 087 299 1327, www. mookrubbertree.com). On the eastern side, a small peninsula known as “the wing” juts out into the sea, with brilliant white sand, great swimming, and views of Koh Libong.

The peninsula is also home to the rare giant dugong (sea cow). The place I called home on Koh Mook was the Riviera Beach Resort (●087 885 7815, 081 8946936, www.riviera-resorts.com), where energyefficient lighting, heat-resistant roofing, and extra large windows keep the white sea villas cool. The ocean blue decorative

After the tunnel …

You will see the light UP FOR NAVIGATING A 100-METER-LONG PITCH-BLACK TUNNEL IN THE SEA? THE REWARD WILL BE A PRISTINE JUNGLE AND WHITE SAND BEACH AT ONE OF THAILAND’S BEST HIDDEN GEMS: TRANG’S KOH MOOK AND ITS EMERALD CAVE.

by Dave Stamboulis

Beautiful beach on Koh Mook island, Trang Province

FEBRUARY 2014 | 27

Dave Stamboulis

TRAVEL FEATURE

The Emerald Cave, on Koh Mook

Inside the hidden Emerald Cave (Tham Morakot)

Dave Stamboulis

Getting There

Yacht at sunrise, on Koh Mook island

concept also creates a calm atmosphere in the tropical environment. The resort is also actively involved in the Lifelong Learning Association (●www.lifelonglearning.org), which provides sustainable living and post-tsunami assistance to rural island communities. The resort owners have a policy of drawing from the local chao leh population for staff, as well as providing funding to village projects.

Sunning, water sports, and relaxation aside, Koh Mook is also home to one of Thailand’s premier sights: Tham Morakot, more commonly known as the “Emerald Cave.” The cave is featured in the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s (TAT) “Unseen Thailand” campaign, which seeks

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to explore and promote lesser-known wonders of the kingdom. The Emerald Cave is actually a sinkhole where the roof of an underwater cave collapsed, allowing skylight to flood in and a jungle environment to encroach on it. The only access to the cave is via a pitch-black 100-meter long tunnel in the sea, reachable only at low tide. The opening is wide enough for a kayak or tiny dinghy to paddle in, but most of the tours bring people out on longtail boats and have them swim in from there using flashlights and buoys provided by the tour company.

Once inside, the cave opens up to reveal a pristine jungle, towering walls, and a white sand beach fronted

) Nok Air (●www.nokair.com ) .com asia and Air Asia (●www.air from ts igh fl provide multiple daily Bangkok to Trang. Trang also rnight has a rail station, with ove some ing trains from Bangkok tak the n, tow 14 to 15 hours. Once in Rd, ee han Wunderbar (●26 Sat erbar087 624 8728, www.wund is trang.com) travel agency boat recommended to arrange all re are The s. and minivan connection and , ivan daily departures by min Koh Mook then a longtail boat out to at 11 a.m.

by emerald water. Most visitors opt for the convenience of a tour to get in, but wanting to experience the cave in silence and solitude—and equally keen to avoid swimming among all the fish and jellyfish I spotted in the sea outside the cave—I hired a dinghy and boatman and set out just after first light to enjoy the cave as an explorer stumbling upon it for the first time. After we navigated the dark tunnel with a flashlight, the rays of the sinkhole opened up, and the Emerald Cave really lived up to its billing. It looked like something right out of an Indiana Jones flick. Alone on the beach, I smiled and realized I’d probably be coming back to Koh Mook sooner than expected.

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TRAVEL BUSINESS INSIGHTS

2013: THE MOST SUCCESSFUL

YEAR IN THAI TOURISM HISTORY ASIA-PACIFIC COUNTRIES ARE KEY DRIVERS OF GROWTH.

T

he year 2013 was the most successful in the history of Thai tourism, with international visitor arrivals of 26,735,583, up 19.6 percent over 2012. Earnings from tourism also hit THB 1.17 trillion, crossing the one trillion mark for the first time. The figures show some fascinating indicators of prevailing trends, all of which will lead to major changes in Thailand’s tourism marketing, promotion and product development strategies in the next few years.

Thanks to strong airline connections, visa-on-arrival facilities, and the publicity impact of the movie “Lost in Thailand,” China has surged to become the top source-market and is likely to remain there

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by Imtiaz Muqbil for the foreseeable future. Its growth rate of 68 percent was also the highest of all markets, a unique combination unmatched by any other source market.

Russia is the third largest market in terms of volume and fifth largest market in terms of growth. The warm-weather lure of Thailand remains a big draw for Russians fleeing the harsh winters, and their escape is made all the more possible by strong airline connections and visa-on-arrival facilities.

India remained just above the one million level with 1,049,856 arrivals.

Laos has become the seventh country to join the one million arrivals club, reflecting the positive impact of four friendship bridges now open across the

Mekong River.

The Asia-Pacific region, including Australia, India, and China, now commands a whopping 70 percent of all arrivals. The 10 ASEAN countries alone are generating more visitors than all of Europe.

Arrivals grew from all the major markets except six.

According to the Tourism Authority of Thailand, here are the major reasons why Thailand’s visitor arrivals fared well in 2013: ● A long-standing geographical advantage that has positioned Thailand at the crossroads of Asia, allowing for a good balance of arrivals in terms of sourcemarkets and customer segments. ● The long-standing visa-free and visa-

Top Ten Visitor Arrivals to Thailand by Nationality in 2013 Nationality

2013

2012

%∆

Number

Number

2013/2012

China

4,705,173

2,786,860

68.83

Malaysia

2,996,071

2,554,397

17.29

Russia

1,736,990

1,316,564

31.93

Japan

1,537,979

1,373,716

11.96

Korea

1,297,200

1,163,619

11.48

Laos

1,106,080

975,999

13.33

India

1,049,856

1,013,308

3.61

Singapore

936,477

831,215

12.66

Australia

907,868

930,241

-2.41

United Kingdom

906,312

873,053

3.81

Source: Immigration Bureau, Police Department

Top-Ten Fastest Growing Source-Markets to Thailand in 2013 Nationality

2013

2012

%∆

Number

Number

2013/2012

China

4,705,173

2,786,860

68.83

Egypt

28,088

19,918

41.02

Brunei

14,304

10,459

36.76

Myanmar

172,374

129,385

33.23

Russia

1,736,990

1,316,564

31.93

Indonesia

589,079

447,820

31.54

Taiwan

503,157

394,225

27.63

Vietnam

787,301

618,670

27.26

Saudi Arabia

21,386

17,084

25.18

Eastern Europe

346,246

280,976

23.23

Source: Immigration Bureau, Police Department

Six Declining Source-Markets of Visitor Arrivals in 2013 Nationality

2013

2012

%∆

Number

Number

2013/2012

Finland

136,483

154,919

-11.90

Sweden

337,812

364,681

-7.37

Nepal

25,431

26,277

-3.22

South Africa

74,356

76,326

-2.58

Australia

907,868

930,241

-2.41

Denmark

163,907

167,499

-2.14

on-arrival policy has allowed visitors from many of its key source-markets to just make their bookings and move, without having to worry about the lengthy and tedious process of procuring visas. ● A generally favorable exchange rate has made the country’s tourism product and shopping attractions very good value for money. ● Extensive airline and aviation access to Thailand in terms of both domestic and regional linkages has ensured a plentiful, if not always adequate, supply of seats. ● A friendly and service-oriented people with a strong history and cultural tradition that is respectful of all races or religions. ● An excellent reputation for product delivery, including an extensive range of natural and cultural heritage attractions (e.g., good beaches, tropical forests, historical sites) that form a wide variety of tourism destinations and activities. ● The strong promotional campaigns during the past years, starting with the Visit Thailand Year of 1987 and leading up to the Amazing Thailand campaign of recent years, all of which have augmented the good image of Thailand cultivated by books, movies, and other icons like famous hotels. ● Strong regional cooperation and joint tourism promotion with the Mekong subregion and ASEAN neighbouring countries. A number of regional free trade agreements with the regional countries will further facilitate movement of people for tourism and business travel. ● Good transportation (rail, road, air) infrastructure as well as accommodation and restaurants catering for all budgets (backpackers to top deluxe travelers).

For 2014, the TAT has set a target of 28.01 million, generating estimated foreign exchange revenue of THB 1.326 trillion, up 13 percent. This will be achieved through extensive use of social media marketing networks, continued investment in fastgrowing markets such as Indonesia and India, and a focus on high-spending nichemarkets such as golf, health and wellness, weddings and honeymoons, and green tourism. Asia-Pacific’s millions of young people will be primary target markets.

Source: Immigration Bureau, Police Department

FEBRUARY 2014 | 31

TRAVEL BUSINESS INSIGHTS

THAILAND: AN AVIATION HUB WITH A DIFFERENCE

TOURISM AUTHORITY’S COFFEE TABLE BOOK “COLOURS OF THE SKY” A DELIGHT FOR BIRD-WATCHERS.

TAT

by Imtiaz Muqbil

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T

hailand is known as an aviation hub of Asia due to the huge number of airlines flying to and from Bangkok’s two international airports. Not so well known is that Thailand is also the hub of a different kind of aviation—some of the world’s most beautiful and exotic birds, which crisscross through the country on their transcontinental north–south migratory journeys.

In his introduction to the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)’s coffee-table publication “Colours of the Sky,” Suraphon Svetasreni, the former TAT governor, writes, “Birds are symbols of freedom.

They are the voyagers of the skies. They are also the indicators of the profusion of forests and the quality of the environment.

Wherever they make their home, it means that the area has plentiful flora and natural food, as well as being a safe and comfortable place.”

Svetasreni, who retired as TAT governor at the end of December 2013 after four of the most successful years in Thai tourism history, is an avid bird-watcher himself. He said, “Bird-watching is first on the ecotourism list, being healthy physical activity that provides enjoyment and an opportunity to understand the ecological system and the food chain. You also learn about the habits and behaviour of different bird species. Suitable for young and old, it’s a lovely way to appreciate nature using very little equipment.”

He added, “Thailand is a favorite destination for bird watchers from all over the world. It has a wide variety of habitats such as jungles, dry dipterocarp forests, mixed deciduous forests, pine forests, swamp forests, low plain forests, or mangrove forests. Birds also abound along the coastline, in archipelagos, freshwater sources, grassland, and agricultural areas. Thousands of species of migratory and indigenous birds can be seen all year round.”

Svetasreni sanctioned “Colours of the Sky” to help identify interesting birdwatching locations. Some of Thailand’s most famous photographers were commissioned to capture the beauty

of birds in the sky and in their natural habitats. “I hope the book is the beginning or inspiration for readers to get to know our small winged friends a little better. It may lead to a greater and hopefully lasting appreciation of our precious nature and homes of our birds,” the former governor said.

In an interview, Svetasreni said that the geographical location of Thailand is the primary advantage to accommodate more than 1,000 species of birds, with its diversity of Sino-Himalayan plants and animals in the north, Indo-Burmese species to the west, and a completely different species of plants and animals in the south.

The book itself says that the birds may be classified according to their seasonality into five groups, as follows: ● Resident birds comprise most of Thailand’s bird species. These are species which live, mate, breed, nest, and lay eggs in Thailand, and may be seen year-round.

They include such common garden birds as the Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Oriental Magpie Robin, Streak-eared Bulbul, Common Myna, and Common Tailorbird. ● Winter visitors rank second in number of species and comprise those birds that migrate from northern and central Asia to stay in Thailand for the duration of the north temperate winter. They include both land birds such as the Taiga Flycatcher, Siberian Blue Robin, and Yellow-browed Leaf Warbler, and many water birds such as Brown-headed Gull, Garganey, and Common Snipe. ● Passage migrants are fewer in number of species. Most also breed in Northern Asia, but they spend the winter in countries to the south of Thailand, such as Malaysia and Indonesia. They are seen in Thailand for only short periods. Some typical species include Tiger Shrike, Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, and Grey-faced Buzzard. This last species is mainly a passage migrant, but some are winter migrants. ● Breeding visitors are species that migrate into Thailand in order to breed. The Blue-winged Pitta enters Thailand from the South when the rains start, in April or May to feed their young on the flush of earthworms and insects that accompanies

the wet weather. Another breeding visitor, the Oriental Pratincole, migrates into Thailand at the height of the dry season (unusually, it starts arriving as early as late January) in order to lay its eggs on the hard-baked mud of the parched ground. ● Vagrants. These are species that do not normally occur, but which occasionally stray off course to enter the kingdom.

Some are seabirds such as the Little Gull, Sooty Gull, Black-legged Kittiwake, and Tropicbirds.

Svetasreni said that Northern Thailand, with its rich and varied culture, vegetation and topography, is suitable for almost 700 birds species, including more than 400 residents and approximately 260 winter visitors. Most of the well-known bird-watching places are higher mountains such as Doi Inthanon, Doi Pha Hom Pok, Doi Lang, Doi Ang Khang. Doi Chiang Dao, and Doi Mon Jong.

“These support a tremendous diversity of often brightly colored or strikingly marked resident and migrant or wintering montane birds—barbets, woodpeckers, orioles, minivets, bulbuls, thrushes, chats, flycatchers, warblers and babblers,” he said.

“There are also many good birding areas in the plains and foothills.”

Alongside a full list of the 13 national parks, the book also includes an extensive list of equipment and supplies for birdwatching, such as lightweight binoculars and the spotting telescope for long distance bird-watching, a backpack with water bottles, food, insect and leech repellants, an umbrella, sunscreen, and a hat.

For clothing, Svetasreni recommended green, brown, or gray shades to blend in with nature, and long-sleeved tops and long pants to protect against sunlight, thorns, skin-irritating plants, as well as mosquitoes/insects. Sturdy, rubber-soled shoes can prevent slippery falls. A hat, a raincoat, a jacket and leech socks will also be welcome depending on the season and terrain.

The best place for bird watchers to start their journey will be at the Bird Conservation Society of Thailand website (● www.bcst.or.th).

FEBRUARY 2014 | 33

FUN

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn

things to do in Bangkok!

Shopping at Asiatique The Riverfront

Chao Phraya River Tour

Escape Hunt

The Peninsula Bangkok Klong Tours

(●2194 Charoenkrung Rd., Wat Prayakrai, Bangkoleam, 02 108 4488, www. thaiasiatique.com) Located by the Chao Phraya River on what use to be a pier that started international trade between the Kingdom of Siam (Thailand’s former name) and European nations back in the 1900s, Asiatique The Riverfront has shops that offer Thai handicrafts, fashion accessories, and furniture, among other products, and it has bars, restaurants, and entertainment. Open daily from 5 p.m. until midnight.

(●399 Sukhumvit Road, Interchange (Citibank) Tower, Unit C, B2 Level, 02 611 2828, www.escapehunt.com) An addictive, challenging, educational, and fun experience for both kids and adults, Escape Hunts takes you back 100 years in time to play the part of a famous London detective who has to solve mysteries set in Bangkok. THB 795 per person for 2 players; THB 695 per person for 3 players; THB 595 per person for 4 players; THB 495 per person for 5 players.

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LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

(●78/24-29 Maharaj Rd, Maharaj Pier, 02 623 6001–3, www.chaophrayaexpressboat. com) If you haven’t seen life from the Chao Phraya River, you haven’t seen Bangkok.

The Chao Phraya is an important river in Thailand for agriculture as well as a means of transportation and commerce, and a boat tour along it is an enjoyable experience at any time of day, especially at sunset. Monday to Friday from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m.; weekends and public holidays from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Fares go from THB 10 to 32, according to the distance traveled.

(●333 Charoennakorn Rd, 02 861 2888, www.peninsula.com/Bangkok/en) Tour along the Chao Phraya River for two hours on a long-tail boat, cruising the klongs (small canals) to see the Thai lifestyle. The boat makes a stop at the National Museum of Royal Barges and at Wat Arun before going back to the hotel. Daily, flexible times. THB 3,600 for 1 person; THB 2,200 per person for 2 people; THB 1,800 per person for 3 or 4 people; THB 1,600 per person for 5 or more people.

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn

(●158 Wang Doem Road (take the ferry from Tha Thien), 02 891 2978, www. watarun.net) Probably one of the most photographed temples in Bangkok, Wat Arun is located by the Chao Phraya River and is one of Thailand’s landmarks. It features an 82-meter high prang decorated with mosaics and Chinese porcelain that glitters at sunset, and a Buddha image inside the bòht, which is said to have been designed

by King Rama II. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

USEFUL NUMBERS Tourist Police: 1699 Police: 197 Emergency Number: 191 or 123

Shutterstock + Luciano Mortula

TRAVEL ITINERARIES

TRAVEL ITINERARIES

VISITING THAILAND VERSUS LIVING THERE MY HUSBAND AND I FIRST VISITED THAILAND WHEN WE LIVED IN CHINA. TODAY WE LIVE IN BANGKOK, AND WE ARE LOVING IT.

took a boat to go snorkeling, and we visited the place where “The Beach” was filmed— and I would dare to say that Phi Phi is one of the most beautiful beaches I know.

It was an incredible trip, where everything turned out to perfection. It is so easy to travel in Thailand! Since then my husband and I always thought of coming back on holidays again … but we never imagined that, after three years, we would be actually living here.

In February 2013 we received the news that we would be relocated to Bangkok due to his work. In June we traveled to Bangkok again and, with the help of a relocation agency (●Crown Relocations, http://web.crownrelo.com/thailand), we found an apartment and a school for our son. Despite the city’s turmoil and traffic, I think it is a city with a unique charm that is easy to live in, and where people are extremely nice. From day one we have had the feeling of having lived here for a long time. Bangkok has a lot of interesting places to explore and learn about the local culture, like Chatuchak market

Constanza and her son, Lucas, at Wat Pho

Constanza's husband and son at Koh Phi Phi

Diego Molina

W

e came to Thailand for the first time in 2010, when our son was 8 months old.

At the time we lived in Beijing, so the plane ride was pretty short.

The first thing we did when we arrived in Bangkok was to take a boat ride along the Chao Phraya River, and we also did a bit of walking around the city center, Siam.

We visited Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang, the Grand Palace (●Na Phra Lan Rd, Phra Nakhon) and the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho (●2 Sanamchai Road, Phra Nakhon). We had lunch at a small local restaurant, which is where we first discovered Thai food—and we loved it.

We visited the aquarium at Siam Ocean World (●B1-B2 Floor, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan), which is a great place to take children.

After our short visit to Bangkok, we departed to Phi Phi island, where we had a delightful five-day stay at the Holiday Inn Resort (●Laemtong Beach, Phi Phi Island, Krabi, www.phiphi.holidayinn.com). We enjoyed the beach and surroundings, we

(●Mo Chit BTS station), Lumpini Park (●Lumpini MRT station), Talad Rot Fai vintage market (●Kamphaeng Phet MRT station), and so on, together with excellent restaurants with amazing food, aromas, and flavors.

After six months here, we already have an established routine. We have also been able to see places outside the city, such as Ayutthaya, the Floating Market, Khao Yai National Park, Krabi, Pattaya, and Hua Hin. I can only say Thailand—and Bangkok— are amazing places to both to visit or live in, and it’s worth coming here!

Constanza Hernandez

Lucas Molina at Wat Pho

Constanza Hernandez

by Constanza Hernandez

FEBRUARY 2014 | 35

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

Celebrate Chinese New Year in Pattaya with Centara

What: Five Centara hotels in Pattaya are offering special packages to celebrate Chinese New Year, with a range of holiday enjoyment and the beach always close by.

The minimum stay at any of the properties is for two nights, and the packages include daily breakfast. Other benefits available vary by hotel.

Starting rate for the packages is THB

2,588 net per night for two people in a Deluxe Room at Nova Hotel & Spa Pattaya (includes breakfast, a 60-minute Thai massage for one person at Spa Cenvaree, and free Wi-Fi access in the room and throughout the resort).

The highest rate is at Centara Grand

Mirage Beach Resort, where a Deluxe Ocean Facing Room for two people is priced at THB 6,888++, and includes, along with the daily breakfast, one dinner buffet for two at Ginger & Lime.

When: From now until February 13 Where: Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort; Centara Grand Modus Resort; Centara Grand Phratamnak; Centara Pattaya Hotel; and Nova Hotel & Spa Pattaya (part of the Centara Boutique Collection).

More info: www.centarahotelsresorts. com/package/pattaya-chinese-new-year

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LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

“Great Holiday Sale” at Le Méridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort: Save Up to 50 percent

What: Le Méridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort, located 83 kilometers north of Phuket International Airport and famous for its pristine beaches and waters, invites travelers to explore the Andaman Sea with its “Great Holiday Sale” campaign, offering accommodations at a rate of up to 50 percent off the standard rate, starting from THB 5,600 net, inclusive of complimentary daily breakfast for two.

When: From now until March 31, 2014 Where: Le Méridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort (●9/9 Moo 1 Tambol Kuk Kak, Amphur Takua Pa) More info: 076 427 500, www.lemeridienkhaolak.com

Escape the Ordinary for the Extra Ordinary

What: Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas invites you to enjoy its Winter Special, in five-star luxury amidst a breathtaking natural scenery. A private Pool Villa starts from THB 8,888 net inclusive of gourmet breakfast at Dalah Restaurant for two people and a THB 2,000 dining voucher per villa per day.

Friday night and Saturday night have a surcharge of THB 3,000 per night.

When: From now until April 20, 2014 Where: Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas (●9/22 Moo 5 Paknampran, Pranburi, Prachuap Khirikhan) More info: 032 708 080, sheraton.huahinpranburi@sheraton.com

Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas

Centara Hotels & Resorts

What: Celebrate the month of love in colorful and eclectic Moroccan style with the Love Aroma package, which includes accommodation in a luxurious Pool Villa, complimentary breakfast, a 45-minute Romantic Aroma Spa treatment for two people, and a candlelit dinner by the pool or on the beach. To end the day, you will also get to release a floating lantern that will carry your love into the night sky and your wishes to the stars. THB 14,000 net per night for two people.

When: February 1–28, 2014 Where: Villa Maroc Resort (●165/3 Moo 3 Paknampran, Pranburi, Prachuap Khirikhan) More info: 032 630 771, rsvn@villamarocresort. com, www.villamarocresort.com

Villa Maroc Resort

Love Aroma Package at Villa Maroc Resort

GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai Resort Advance Purchase Promotion

The Touch of Romance Package at Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Bangkok What: Book in advance and celebrate Valentine’s Day with “The Touch of Romance” package at Hua Chang Heritage Bangkok, with a one-night stay in a luxurious Premier Deluxe Room for THB 4,900 net for a couple. The romantic getaway also includes in-room breakfast for two (upon request); dinner set for two, with complimentary Valentine’s gift set at Miss Siam restaurant; Valentine’s drinks for two at chic & chill pool bar; welcome drinks, tropical fruits, flowers, and daily local newspaper in room; complimentary personal butler service; unlimited in-room Wi-Fi access; a special 15 percent discount on food and beverages at Miss Siam restaurant; and late-check out until 3 p.m.

When: From February 1 through February 28, 2014 Where: Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Bangkok (●400 Phayathai Rd, Pathumwan, Bangkok ) More info: 02 217 0777, reservations@huachanghotel.com, www.huachangheritagehotel.com

Trisara Phuket

Trisara Phuket Offers Special Rates To Thai Residents

What: Located on the unspoiled northwestern coastline overlooking a private bay, the luxurious Trisara Phuket enables residents of Thailand to enjoy 30 percent off from the normal seasonal rates, with its “Thai Resident Rates.”

When: Now until October 31, 2014 Where: Trisara Phuket (●60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, Thalang, Phuket) More info: www.bit.ly/trisarathai

GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai Resort

What: Oriental Residence Bangkok offers refined accommodation surrounded by a lush enclave and cordial service in its 145 lavishly appointed residences designed for short-term or extended stays. During 2014, enjoy a special room promotion available for a limited time through their website: sevenday advance purchases get 10 percent off until December 31, 2014 (all room types except 3-bedroom suite); 30-day advance purchases get 20 percent from now until April 30, 2014 (all room types except 3-bedroom suite); and for the Suite Deal, stay three nights pay 2 for a one-bedroom suite from now until April 30, 2014.

When: During 2014 Where: Oriental Residence Bangkok (●110 Wireless Road, Lumpini Pathumwan, Bangkok) More info: www.oriental-residence.com

Oriental Residence Bangkok

2014 Room Promotions at Oriental Residence

What: Book a room 14 days in advance and receive 15 percent off GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai Resort’s best available rate, starting at THB 4,250 net per night for a Superior Villa inclusive of breakfast for two people. Or book a room 30 days in advance and receive a 20 percent discount starting at THB 4,000 net per night.

When: From now until April 30, 2014 Where: GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai Resort (●99 Moo 3, Prunai, Koh Yao Yai) More info: 087 808 3838, rsvn. kohyaoyai@glowbyzinc.com, www. zinchospitality.com/glowbyzinc/kohyaoyai

Stay Three Nights, Pay for Two with Starwood Preferred Guest and MasterCard

What: Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide and its award-winning Starwood Preferred Guest (SPG) loyalty program announced the launch of its latest joint promotional campaign with MasterCard. SPG members and MasterCard cardholders who book a consecutive threenight stay will receive the third night free.

When: From now until March 14, 2014 Where: At more than 150 participating Starwood Hotels and Resorts across Asia Pacific More info: Bookings at www.spg.com/ mastercard3for2

FEBRUARY 2014 | 37

TRAVEL MY FAVORITE PLACE

My Favorite Place: Ubon Ratchathani EXPLORING THE ABUNDANT CHARM OF AN ETERNAL PROVINCE SITUATED IN EASTERNMOST THAILAND.

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LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

Khromma Luang Sunprasiti Prasong, a Bangkok prince who was sent here to govern the provinces, thus sealing the Ubon court with strong ties and allegiance to the Siamese state.

The museum houses a small but priceless collection of artifacts. These range from objects excavated from the pre-historic settlement sites around the province to rare religious pieces from the Dvaravati, Jenla, Khmer, Lao, and Siam empires which began to infiltrate this area as early as the fifth century AD. Lovers of textiles would be surprised to find an entire section dedicated to Ubon’s tangible heritage. Rare and beautiful hand-woven silks and cottons include the unique “Pa Sin” pieces done by a woman who was a member of the local nobility, Mom Boonyern, who established a weaving school here in the late 19th century.

It was already late afternoon when I saw the very last of the exhibits and hunger struck me again, so I headed across the street to the iconic “Jeaw Ki” restaurant.

The owner is a third generation descendant of the head chef who once served at the palace of the Ubon nobility. The cuisine and ambience of the place definitely bring to mind that lovely term “old school.” A celebrated dish here is called “buk good tei,” which is a slow-cooked pork sparerib soup. It is absolutely delicious.

Ubon Ratchathani is as beautiful at sunset as it is at sunrise, and there is no better place to be at this hour than in the drinking dens on the Moon riverside.

These are lined up along the embankment, a mere 10 minutes’ walk down the slope from the museum quarters. Although the word “moon” in the Isaan dialect means “precious,” I would never forget the sight of the very beautiful moon rising over the river that runs through this timeless city.

The Big Buddha in downtown Ubon Ratchathani

The National Museum of Ubon Ratchathani

Sleep at: Thor Saeng Resorts Breakfast: Kai Kata on the Kong Jeam Brunch: Charcoal grilled fish and prawns with glutinous rice by the roadside Late lunch: “Buk good tei,” slow-cooked sparerib soup, at Jeaw Ki in the town’s center Evening meals: Waterfront pubs on the embankment of the Moon River Must-buy: Earthenware pots, silks, and hand-crafted traditional jewelry

ML Poomchai Chumbala

L

ooking east toward the People’s Democratic Republic of Laos, I can vaguely make out the graceful outline of the Kong mountain range, lying silent in a mystical deep purple landscape. It is dawn, and the sun is just about to pierce its powerful rays through the layers of early morning mist.

“Sunrise very beautiful here,” an old man told me when I arrived late last night at Kong Jeam, a riverside village on the Mae Kong—and I could well believe him.

After all, this is the first spot in the whole of Thailand where one sees the rising sun, and from my modest wooden bungalow atop a perky cliff, I could see the vast and meandering Mae Kong River flowing quietly through the landscape down below.

It was also here that early humans first settled and began to develop agricultural and social systems. This is evident in the primitive paintings on the rock face of the Pa Taem cliffs, in an area which is truly wonderful to explore in the dry and cool winter mornings, such as the day I went.

During the hour-long drive back to the city of Ubon Ratchathani, I passed the picturesque and huge fresh water reservoir of Sirindhorn Dam. Numerous bamboo stalls lined the road, selling delicious charcoal grilled fish and river prawns. They are eaten with a spicy chili dip and a ball of soft, steamy glutinous rice, an ideal brunch after the early morning trek along the riverside cliffs.

As soon as I arrived back in the city center, I headed to the National Museum of Ubon Ratchathani, which is housed in the quaint old town hall. It was built during the sixth reign of the Chakri dynasty (1910–1925) on a large ground given to the municipality by Mom Jiangkum, a descendant of the local ruling Beach Parkour at Phuket, Phanghad Ngamarried warlords.

The noblewoman

ML Poomchai Chumbala

by M.L. Poomchai Chumbala

bangkok gets dressed.

salads, wraps, sandwiches, paninis, soups, smoothies Mercury Ville 540 Ploenchit Road Chidlom/Langsuan Intersection Ground Floor BTS: Chidlom Open Daily 10am - 10pm Tel. 02-658-6688

Siam Paragon 991 Rama1 Road Ground Floor (Opposite MK Gold) BTS: Siam Open Daily 10am - 10pm Tel. 02-610-7714

www.dressedsalads.com www.facebook.com/dressedthailand Home delivery via

LIFESTYLE COVER STORY

Outlook of the

SCENARIO IN BANGKOK K L A ST

T R E XP

E E TH

W

hen it comes to the condominium market in Bangkok, the prime downtown areas are split in three: Sukhumvit from soi 1 to 63 and from soi 2 to 42, the Lumpini area which covers Wireless, Langsuan, and Rajdamri roads, and the northern end of Sathorn and Silom roads. These areas are characterized by a mixture of commercial and residential buildings in the same area, which make a nice living environment without business areas that are dead after 7 p.m., and that integrate residential buildings, hotels, shopping centers, and offices in one location.

But unlike what is done in other cities in the world, it’s not possible to give a

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LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

Sansiri

REAL ESTATE

Where Bangkok Stands A new wave of supply for 2014 and 2015 and a weakened economy exasperated by the political turmoil are two characteristics.

by James Pitchon, CBRE Thailand value by postcodes in Bangkok because, even within the prime downtown locations mentioned above, there are areas that are farther from the main roads or the mass transit stations, that behave more like the mid-town and suburban markets.

Characteristics of the Downtown Market in Bangkok

● High-end, highest prices in Bangkok, and highest quality of product ● Areas where expatriate tenants want to locate ● Areas with best potential for finding investors ● Buyers are 80 percent Thais and 20 percent foreigners

● Who buys property in the downtown: occupiers who prefer to live in in condominiums rather than in detached houses, close to shopping centers, restaurants, and businesses; buyers for rental investment, aiming at expats who stay in Thailand on two- to three-year postings*; speculators ● It’s becoming a low volume/high value market (fewer new projects launched and highly priced projects) ● There are more Asian buyers— particularly from Hong Kong, China, Singapore, and Taiwan—of prime Bangkok property compared to before 2008, when the majority of foreigner purchasers were westerners based in Asia.

Outlook for the Real Estate Market in Bangkok

The downtown market has had a slowdown in terms of new supply and it’s looking healthy, so there is very little overhang of unsold inventory. We have seen prices of the best quality existing projects rising in 2013, and prices for new projects have become more expensive, in line with increased land prices and increased demand for better quality projects in terms of the specification. Developers’ costs have been rising, so prices have as well.

The political turmoil has definitely had an impact on the market. We are seeing a much slower rate of new sales on new projects. However, there is limited amount of stock of these new projects. So what we expect to happen while the political situation continues is that there will be few new project launches. We think it is unlikely that prices will fall, so we will see a slower market, but not a market with massive amounts of oversupply.

The opposite is true in the midtown and suburban market for one-bedroom units, where we see a slower local demand because of the increase in consumer debt; banks are becoming more cautious in their lending for projects and mortgage finance; and we have a record amount of new supply that will be completed in 2014 and 2015. So we’ve got a wave of new supply, and a weakened economy exasperated by the political turmoil.

The New Mass Transit Lines

The expansion of the mass transit lines is the most exciting infrastructure change in Bangkok, and it has had a significant effect on the way that people work, live, and shop. One of the first impacts is that historically the city center of Bangkok was “mobile,” in terms of what is regarded as the city center. To some extent that movement has now been changed because the mass transit has now anchored where the city center is. Most future development of mass transit lines is coming from the outskirts of Bangkok into the city center, and we predict that the most valuable locations will continue to be the core downtown locations of Sukhumvit, Lumpini, and northern Sathorn and Silom roads, because they’ve been anchored by the mass transit systems. This means that the city will develop alongside and around mass transit stations.

* Did you know?

ACCORDING TO THAILAND’S ALIEN OCCUPATIONAL CONTROL DIVISION, DEPARTMENT OF EMPLOYMENT, MINISTRY OF LABOR, THERE ARE MORE THAN 65,000 EXPATRIATES WITH WORK PERMITS IN BANGKOK, EXCLUDING PEOPLE FROM LAOS, MYANMAR, AND CAMBODIA, AND DIPLOMATS AND FOREIGN RETIREES.

TRENDS

Eco-Friendly Buildings Thailand has not been a bystander in the global trend to develop eco-friendly buildings that include green areas and are equipped with high technology and innovative systems to ensure optimal energy savings. Indeed, Bangkok has the honor of having one of the first U.S. Green Building Council (USBGC) LEED Platinum certificated buildings in the country. Park Ventures Ecoplex, located at the corner of Wireless Road and Ploenchit Road, is a 27,000 square meter building with offices on levels 8 to 22. The building is also home to the 240-room luxury five-star The Okura Prestige Bangkok hotel on levels 23 to 34.

In interview with Lookeast, Univentures President Worawat SrisaAn explained to us the importance of such a revolutionary concept in terms of possibly shaping the future by inspiring other builders in Thailand to implement environmentally-friendly architecture and practices: “As developer of Park Ventures Ecoplex, we are very encouraged that other developers have followed the approach of building environmentallyfriendly buildings. Park Ventures Ecoplex has proven that these types of buildings are feasible from the investment point of view and, as a benchmark for grade-A commercial buildings, Park Ventures Ecoplex has steadily increased awareness of green-building practices. There are currently 54 projects in Thailand that are in the process of acquiring LEED certification, and 20 projects—including this one—that are in the process of acquiring TREES certification.”

The building continuously makes its

tenants aware of its features through an asset management team that gives them an orientation. “We have also arranged a quarterly campaign called ‘Be Green’ to promote awareness and capitalization of eco-friendly features that have been put in place. In doing so, tenants have been involved with our drive to reduce energy consumption, as well as our initiative to reduce the office waste at Park Ventures Ecoplex,” Srisa-An explains.

–The environment is clearly benefited by a Platinum-certified building. How are its users benefited by it?

–Green buildings perform better than conventional buildings, and the primary indicators are represented in the operational savings. From our experience, Park Ventures Ecoplex has achieved savings of 30 and 15 percent on electricity and water consumption, respectively. Our tenants have also enjoyed savings of 15 percent on electricity use, and this in a healthier work environment because of the green-building features that we have in place. These features include smart elevator systems, CO2 sensors, low E coating on insulating glass units, natural light balancing sensors, and VAV (variable air volume) systems.

Univentures, through its subsidiary Golden Land Property Development, is currently working on the development of For Your Inspiration Center (FYI Center), another eco-building project with office and hotel components. The project is expected to be completed in 2017.

FEBRUARY 2014 | 41

LIFESTYLE COVER STORY

HOW CAN YOU BE SURE?

Y

by Sirichot Chaiyachot, Attorney at Law, Siam Legal International

ou may be one among many people who desire to purchase a second-hand condominium for a variety of reasons: the price may be more affordable and reasonable, or perhaps you prefer the style of the building or the decoration of the unit.

But, when considering such a purchase, an important question to consider is how can you, as a buyer, be assured that the seller is the legal owner of the condominium unit?

There are other issues as well, for

1

4

42

Check the condominium title deed with the relevant land office to verify the following basic information: ● Are the details that appear in the seller’s copy precisely in accordance with the copy kept by the land office? ● Is the title deed real? ● Is the seller truly the legal owner of that condominium unit? ● Are there any charges or encumbrances registered on the title deed, for example, a mortgage or an attachment?

Finally, do some research on the background of the developer. For example: ● Who is the developer? ● How many projects have they completed before? ● If any, what condition are these projects in now? Have they aged well?

LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

example, the question of whether there are any charges or encumbrances affecting the title must be considered as well. Is the owner capable and legally entitled to sell the property to you? If you are a foreign national and wish to purchase a unit from a Thai national, how will you know that the building has not exceeded the foreign quota of the condominium saleable area?

Here are some basic guidelines to help you do the title search yourself before entering into a second-hand condominium sales and purchase agreement.

2

FOLLOW THESE BASIC GUIDELINES BEFORE ENTERING INTO A SECOND-HAND CONDOMINIUM SALES AND PURCHASE AGREEMENT.

Meet with the condominium juristic person in order to establish some background information on the seller, the condominium juristic person, and the condominium building, for example:

● Are there outstanding maintenance fees relating to the unit? ● Are there currently any tenants with the ongoing right to occupy the unit? ● Are there any specific rules or regulations for the condominium co-owners that may affect your decision to buy? For example, do they allow pets in the building? Do they allow gas use for cooking?

● What facilities are registered as common property? ● Are parking spaces available for all units? How many per unit? ● How much is the common area or maintenance fee per month? ● If you are a non-Thai national, is the foreign quota an issue? ● Does the condominium juristic person’s staff appear helpful, professional, and reliable?

● How is the project site and environment? Is it peaceful, well maintained, and situated in a good location?

● How good is the security service and fire protection security?

3

Investigate the following information about the seller: ● Is he/she of legal age and legally competent? ● Is he/she solvent? ● Is he/she the subject of any bankruptcy proceedings? ● In the event the seller is a minor, is the representative acting legally?

By following the steps in the above guidelines, you will feel more secure and assured that you are dealing with the real owner of the unit and that you are ready to register the transfer of the ownership.

Bear in mind that all the paperwork at the land office will be in Thai. If you are not a Thai national, or you do not have a trustworthy Thai friend who has a legal background, it would be sensible to consult with a competent Thai lawyer prior to entering into any agreement.

Good luck with your new home in Thailand!

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION LOCATION IS NO LONGER A SUFFICIENT STRATEGY IN BUYING REAL ESTATE IN 2014.

t seems as if the famous phrase “location, location, location” is not a good enough strategy on its own for purchasing real estate properties in 2014. Other aspects of properties, such as design excellence, developer integrity, property management, and after-sales services that cater to the needs of buyers and residents, are key purchasing factors. In particular, brokerage services have become increasingly important as many people are seeing property not only as a residence, but also as an investment.

As far as buying a condominium is concerned, the first thing to consider is to select a development that best suits your lifestyle. An aesthetically attractive condominium is one thing, but if you have an active lifestyle, it may be equally important to select one that also offers a large swimming pool, a sufficient gym, or even bicycle spaces. If you are fond of reading, a community library may also be a plus. In some projects with an emphasis on long-term energy sustainability, there may even be openings along the walkways to allow in natural light, which will help significantly to save energy in the long term. Another aspect that should not be overlooked is the quality of the materials used in the units. They need to be not only beautiful, but also durable and easy to maintain. Having mentioned all the above, people can see why they should pay attention to the design elements of the property they are buying.

The reliability and track record of the developer are of course other important aspects for consideration, and even more so when making a decision to buy properties which are still under construction. It will provide peace of mind to know the developer you are buying from has a long-standing reputation, experience, and trustworthiness in the Thai real estate industry because you can rest assured that

Sansiri

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by Uthai Uthaisangsuk Senior Executive Vice President, Business and Project Development Division (Condominiums), Sansiri

your property will be completed according to the specified time, and with quality construction that you expect.

A well-maintained property is one that will increase in value over time, so it is essential to consider a development with professional property management.

With good maintenance, your property will remain at its best and will have a greater opportunity to be rented out or resold at a good price. Sound property management also offers you a brokerage service to buy, sell, and rent properties, making it even easier and more convenient for future options.

It is forecasted that demand will remain high for property investors to purchase properties in upcountry provinces, especially in cities such as Chiang Rai, Udon Thani, and Hat Yai, next to Thailand’s neighboring countries.

Investors also believe that residential demand in these border provinces will increase significantly when the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) is in full swing. In addition, investment in vacation condominiums in resort cities will also remain attractive because they can easily be rented out to earn income when they are not in use. Moreover, city-center condominiums in vacation destinations will continue to be great investments to be rented out to expatriates or people who

work in the hospitality industry in those areas. These are all interesting investment trends that both Thai and foreign investors should not overlook.

However, location will undoubtedly remain the number one aspect of consideration when buying a property.

High potential locations such as areas near the BTS Skytrain and in Bangkok’s CBD will continue to be among the most popular. When buying a property such as a condominium, buyers should consider more than a place to live in, but also a place which they can rent out to earn income if they choose to move—that’s when location becomes important.

Properties in “high-demand” areas usually yield much higher income-earning ability, so understanding which areas are popular for which target groups is certainly a plus. European and American expatriates in Bangkok prefer to reside in Rajdamri, Phloenchit, and areas near BTS stations in downtown Sukhumvit, as well as in other areas along the BTS Sukhumvit route. The Japanese, in particular, prefer places in Midtown Sukhumvit, between Asoke and Ekamai. Condominiums in Sukhumvit Soi 24, 31, 39, 49, and 55 (Thonglor) are among the most popular for Japanese expats because Japanese restaurants and facilities catering to this group are readily available in this area. On the other hand, Thai people, in general, appreciate locations along the routes of the BTS Skytrain and the MRT Subway, and in areas which are not far from the homes of their relatives.

Last but not least, buying a condominium is an important decision, and one that should not be taken lightly or made in a rush. Take the time to think it through, so that you can be sure that you are truly buying a property that will best suit your needs and budget. To all future buyers, may your property buying decisions in 2014 be met with great success!

FEBRUARY 2014 | 43

LIFESTYLE COVER STORY

MORE EFFICIENT USE OF SPACE, RATHER THAN MORE SQUARE METERS, PREVAILS TODAY IN NEW REAL ESTATE DEVELOPMENTS.

by Rachoat Wannakanok Architect, DB Studio

A

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MahaNakhon

square meters, larger units are considered to be luxurious.

s big cities are more densely populated, urban life has changed dramatically by making the use of space for living increasingly efficient. Location is more important, since less travelling time is preferred; housing developments are rarely seen in central business districts (CBDs); we stack up both residential and commercial units, and sometimes define them as “vertical living”—in short, urbanization is a phenomenon that affects the way people live. Not only in their work, food consumption, or travelling in a heavy traffic, but also in the way they communicate and socialize.

We select our accommodation for number of reasons: not only for a better daily life, but also for inspiration and individuality. Recently, potential buyers have chosen to buy condominiums by location, pricing, apartment size, common areas, and facilities that fitted their behaviors and spending power.

Speculators, however, still choose to buy by location, location, and location.

As mentioned, nowadays, housing developments are rarely seen in urban areas, especially in CBDs. Buyers have to compensate between longer commuting time and the size of those units. While the size of a unit in an affordable housing development ranges from 150 to 400

From Smaller, Quality Space to Luxury Condos

DB Studio

Via Botani

DB Studio

BIGGER is not always better

Bigger is not always better. Designers and developers are trying to use space on a smaller footprint of land, while creating more quality spaces as well as making better use of materials. Attached houses, which require 35 square wa in land plot, have recently become part of single or detached house development projects, so that buyers can spend the same amount in better locations. However, the construction method in Thailand has begun to change in response to mega projects: the prefabricated concrete floor and wall system has replaced the conventional system— cast-in-place concrete structure—in several projects in order to reduce construction time, cost, and quality control. Buyers should be aware of the pre-fabricated concrete’s flexibility, since concrete walls leave no option in wall penetration to create new openings or re-wiring after it’s done.

This philosophy of small space used well has become the new thing in city condominiums, which has emerged at the outskirts or even in the heart of big cities. Budget condominiums (micro living units) go from 25 to 35 square meters for a one-bedroom unit, compared to the conventional type, whose size ranges from 40 to 60 square meters. This change responds directly to clients’ budgets and behaviors: they are now are younger, single-family, individual, and flexible.

Several projects now come with extensive facilities and are fully furnished, which becomes a critical reason when

choosing. For example, Via Botani (●Sukhumvit Soi 47, Bangkok) provides a two-storey underground parking lot instead of a parking building in order to keep two huge open spaces, one for preserving an existing old tree and another for the swimming pool and recreational area.

New buyers should pay attention to mechanical and electrical systems, as well as to the quality of the materials provided by the developers, since some of them may try to cut down their construction budgets.

Mechanical systems, such as plumbing, transformer capacity, and wiring system become major features that new buyer should know about before making any decisions, and many times these systems are concealed behind the walls and can only be inspected and discovered by professionals. Luxury condominiums will always be more stylish, and provide better facilities in prime locations. When choosing one of these buildings, buyers focus more on the uniqueness of the apartment, the facilities, the materials, and the building’s characteristics.

One of the most luxurious highrise condominiums in Bangkok is the MahaNakhon project (●92 Narathiwas Ratchanakharin Rd, Silom, www. maha-nakhon.com), developed by Pace Development Corporation and designed

by German architect Ole Scheeren. Prices range from USD 1.1 million to 10 million, and the development is one of the most expensive projects in Thailand. This green building features a unique “pixelated” glass wall that creates individual units that protrude, and it also has in-room car parking, and private elevator. Size and price are not in question in these type of condominiums.

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EN

OUTSTANDING

DS

ARCHITECTURE

GET A GLIMPSE OF LE BEAU MONDE WHEN STAYING AT ONE OF THESE CHIC, ULTRA-STYLISH, AND CONTEMPORARY DESIGN HOTELS.

InterContinental Hua Hin Resort

(●33/33, Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin, 032 616 999) ● It overlooks pristine surf and white sands ● 119 rooms, three beachfront villas with private plunge pools, and a range of suites ● Six restaurants and bars, from casual to formal, serving authentic Thai cuisine and international flavors ● Golfers who stay here can play the area’s courses, including Springfield Royal Country Club, designed by Jack Nicklaus

Conrad Bangkok

(●87 Wireless Road, Phatumwan, Bangkok, 02 690 9999) ● Located in the exclusive neighborhood of Bangkok’s Central Business District with easy access to shopping destinations ● 391 rooms combining traditional Thai design with the latest technology ● Fitness center, pool, and tennis court ● 2 restaurants, 2 bars, and 2 cafés ● Meeting rooms accommodating up to 1,200 guests

AKARYN Samui Resort and Spa

wherever they are, design hotels seek to create unique experiences for their guests and, if there’s one unique component that they all posses, it’s originality.

While international entities such as Designhotels.com describe them as having “thought-provoking design and groundbreaking architecture,” and others like the International Hotel Awards recognize them annually for their architecture, construction, and interior design, did you know that Thailand is home to some of the most highly regarded design hotels in the world?

Some International Award-Winning Design Hotels in Thailand

137 Pillars House

(●2 Soi 1, Nawatgate Road, Tambon Watgate, Muang, Chiang Mai, 053 247 788) ● Architectural historians and conservationists worked to conserve the integrity of its original 1889 structure ● 30 suites combining nostalgia along with modern comforts and conveniences ● Two restaurants, two bar/lounges, and The Kitchen for Thai cooking demonstrations ● Swimming pool, fitness, spa ● Personal butler and multi-lingual concierge services

Casa de La Flora

(●67/213 Moo 5, Khuk Khak, Khao Lak, 076 428 999) ● Beachfront resort with 36 cube-shaped villas ● The first modernist hideaway in Khao Lak, presenting cutting-edge architecture and unique design amid tropical nature ● 24-hour butler service and the latest inroom entertainment ● Eco-friendly initiatives ● Restaurant and spa

Hilton Pattaya

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ou want to be pampered by razor-sharp service, gourmet food, modern facilities, and sumptuous-smelling amenities in your suite. You want to spend your holidays feeling like a celebrity while immersed in a stylish, chic atmosphere, where that dirty martini you love tastes even better when watching sunset from a white sofa bed by an infinity pool. If you want a glimpse of the life of the fashionable society, then you want to spend your next holiday in a design hotel.

Sometimes located in the middle of a desert, sometimes in the jungle, in a downtown metropolis, or by the sea,

AKARYN Samui Resort and Spa (●Hanuman Bay, Koh Samui, 02 514 8112) ● Located in Hanuman Bay’s white sand beach, surrounded by palms and bounded by spectacular granite headlands ● Accommodation in pool suites and villas ● Outdoor and indoor dining options, beach bar, pool bar, and tea salon ● Book and music library, spa

Hilton Pattaya

(●333/101 Moo 9, Nong Prue, Banglamung, Pattaya Chonburi, 038 253 000) ● Located above CentralFestival Pattaya Beach complex, Southeast Asia’s largest beachfront shopping complex ● Panoramic ocean and Pattaya bay views ● Outdoor infinity edge swimming pool ● Three restaurants and two bars ● Ballroom with outdoor balcony and beach views FEBRUARY 2014 | 45

INIALA T

he story of Iniala Beach House (●www.iniala.com), Phuket’s newest luxury resort, comes from adversity and inspiration.

Thanatos, the ancient Greek personification of death, has flirted with Mark Weingard, 47, on several occasions.

Like when he was supposed to be in a meeting in New York’s World Trade Center South Tower, which he graciously missed the morning of 9/11. When he split with his

Penthouse's exterior

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LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

One penthouse suite and three villas created by worldclass designers, nine chefs, and 10 percent of room revenues for charity define this uber-luxurious new beachfront resort in Phuket.

fiancée a few days before he was going to join her in Bali, where she passed away in the 2002 bombings. And when he saw his beach house washed away in front of his eyes by the Boxing Day tsunami in Phuket, in 2004.

Weingard, who began his career as a successful trader in the U.K., then decided it was time to do something for the world, and after ten years during which he collected more than USD 10 million in donations, he has helped hundreds

Penthouse bedroom

Iniala

THE STORY OF

T H G I L HIGH

Iniala

LIFESTYLE COVER STORY

of people through 13 education, health, and rehabilitation projects in Thailand, Indonesia, and India.

And good deeds carry good karma.

Two years ago, Weingard started working on an uber-luxury beachfront hotel in Natai Beach—in the same location where his beach house disappeared with the first tidal wave a decade ago—and everybody is already talking about it as one of Thailand’s (if not one of the region’s or the world’s) newest and most amazing design hotels.

The Design

The Food

Iniala’s restaurant, Aziamendi, is overseen

by Basque chef Eneko Atxa, the youngest chef to have ever received three Michelin stars in Spain.

Combining traditional European techniques with quality Thai ingredients, Atxa’s concept for the restaurant includes signature dishes like “bonsai tree of juicy cherry tomatoes, truffled egg, foie gras ash, mushroom tea, snapper with morning glory and petits fours, including white chocolate and mint, and cloud.”

Collector's Deck Iniala

Iniala Beach House is a 10-suite retreat that mixes design, gastronomy, and art from around the world. Opened in early December 2013, it is located 20 minutes north of Phuket Airport, and it offers uninterrupted views of the beach and the Andaman Sea. The residence comprises three villas and the Iniala Penthouse, each available to rent as a group or by individual villa/suite, and each with its own spa and personal therapist. Talk about luxury holidays.

The hotel was created by 11 designers, among them some of the world’s most renowned, including the Campana Brothers of Brazil, A-Cero from Spain, Joseph Walsh of Ireland, Mark Brazier-Jones, Graham Lamb from Britain, and Thailand’s Eggarat Wongcharit.

Hence, the residence is a real work of art that fuses in its design traditional Thai architecture with organic, contemporary forms created by designers from Spain, Ireland, Britain, Brazil, Russia, the U.S., and Thailand. Born out of a traditional beach house built in the last century, each bedroom and living space at Iniala is completely different from the others. Graham Lamb created several contemporary villas around the original structure, with Thai healing hands as his inspiration to create sumptuous carved roofs clad in teak, that reflect Thai traditions.

Gnocchi with pesto and Parmesan

The Art

Alongside Aziamendi’s world-class cuisine, the groundbreaking restaurant also features the Iniala Art Gallery, presenting some of Asia’s most talented and bestknown contemporary artists.

The inaugural exhibition is showcasing Indonesian and Thai art that highlights some of the artists on view within Iniala Beach House. The multimedia display includes brass sculptures by Entang Wiharso, carved musical drums and a lantern installation by Nasirun, mixed media painting from Made Djirna, and introducing paintings by emerging artist Krissadank Intasorn.

MBJ bedroom

Giving Back to the Community

As with all of Weingard’s projects, Iniala also has a very strong charity element in which 10 percent of room revenues and 5 percent of the food, beverage, and spa revenues will go to charity and community projects. As this is not a percentage on profits, even if Iniala breaks even, it will still be giving back to the community.

A philanthropist, Weingard is planning on starting the “1,000 fires foundation” this year, with the aim is to inspire other companies to give, and with the belief that if he can convince 1,000 companies to do so, then the world would be changed.

FEBRUARY 2014 | 47

LIFESTYLE PERSONALITIES

Lanshu Chen:

“COOKING IS ALL ABOUT FINDING THE ENJOYABLE BALANCE AMONG FLAVORS AND TEXTURES” Recently named “Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef for 2014,” the Taiwanese chef will receive her award at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in Singapore on February 24.

Veuve Clicquot

by Coco Lavender

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LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

L

anshu Chen’s parents must be very proud. The Taiwaneseborn chef of Le Moût restaurant, in Taiwan, has recently been named Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef for 2014, a prestigious award part of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants (●www. theworlds50best.com/asia/en) program, voted by more than 200 industry experts from across all parts of Asia.

Who She Is After completing her training at the Ferrandi School of Culinary Arts in Paris, Chen honed her craft working alongside some of France’s most celebrated chefs, including Pierre Hermé, and at Michelin-starred restaurants such as Les Ambassadeurs, Relais d’Auteuil, and Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in California.

Returning to her native Taiwan, Chen opened Le Moût (●No. 59, Cúnzhōng St, Xi District, Taichung City, Taiwan, +886 4 2375 3002, www.lemout.com) in 2008. Located in Taichung city, Le Moût is renowned for its uncompromising standards and innovative blend of classic and contemporary flavors. Applying the lessons learned from France’s masters of gastronomy, Chen has successfully adapted European concepts for Taiwanese diners.

By combining French culinary traditions with the local influences and ingredients she grew up with, Chen reveals both her mastery of authentic French cuisine and her ability to innovate. Her ever-changing menu is founded on classic cooking styles yet informed by her own heritage, creating a delicate cross-cultural fusion of flavors and textures.

Acknowledging the honor, Chen says, “As a chef who strives for perfection, I am truly thrilled to receive the Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef award from Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Growing up in Taiwan, food has always been an integral part of my heritage. From an early age I appreciated the pleasures that derive from preparing and sharing meals. It is a great privilege to have my work recognized by the respected industry experts who make up The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy. It is also a tremendous encouragement for our team and their uncompromising standards and dedication.”

The Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef award celebrates the work of an exceptional female chef whose cooking excites the toughest of critics. The award

is inspired by the life and achievements of Madame Clicquot, who nearly 200 years ago set the standard for women in business.

The winner reflects Madame Clicquot’s attributes of innovation, creativity, and determination.

“This award recognizes the commitment, creativity and talent of women in Asia’s restaurant industry, and Lanshu Chen is a hugely worthy recipient,” explains Veuve Clicquot President and CEO Jean-Marc Lacave.

– How would you describe your own cooking style, Lanshu?

– “Ching” in Chinese means clear, undisturbed. My cooking philosophy is all about finding the enjoyable balance—or harmony—among flavors and textures. The essence of exceptional cuisine is defined by the balance among the ingredients. Balance is not to be taken as mediocre; it is the play of sour, sweet, spice, or aroma that will ultimately create a perfect medley of flavors, which is what we call the beauty of a dish.

– What is the inspiration for your recipes and dishes?

– I’m inspired by everything that surrounds me. That includes street food, fine dining, Taiwanese and Western cuisines, and it extends to colors, pictures, and smells.

Sometimes it is just a memory that sparks a creative spirit. I always carry a small notebook with me and write down what comes to me. It may be just some irrelevant descriptions of feelings about textures and flavors. It’s like a puzzle, and sooner or later I will find the essential piece that transfers the concept to a dish.

– How will you continue to innovate in terms of new dishes at your restaurant?

– What I always take into account when I design a new menu is balance, from the visual presentation and flavors to the textures … it’s about incorporating all the details that connect a dish. French cuisine isn’t just about the food. It incorporates culture, processes, and emotion. That is what I experienced when I lived in Paris.

People appreciate all of the finer details.

– What is special about the ingredients indigenous to your country?

– There are a lot of local producers in Taiwan and local organic farms that provide exceptional quality. Apart from various

kinds of vegetables, these organic farms also grow different varieties of edible flowers, which can be used in the presentation and to enhance the flavors, from sweet to mildly spicy tastes. Fish from northeast Taiwan is also very fresh. Local chickens, organic eggs, as well as fresh milk in Taiwan are also very good.

– How does the food served in your restaurant reflect the personality of your country?

– In the French language of viticulture, “terroir” can be defined as the land that is part of Mother Nature and essential for growth. Elements such as sun, air, rain, soil, climate, and gradient produce different varieties from one harvest to another, which is why every vineyard has its own unique characteristics. When luxury products from around the world meet local delicacies, there is an instant spark. Whether it’s the freshly delivered Silkie hen’s egg, sweet baby carrots from an organic farm in Nantou, freshly plucked angelica sprouts, linecaught wild ama-dai [tilefish] from Taiwan's northeastern coastline, black truffles from Périgord, far-flung Beluga caviar, or buttery wagyu beef ... it is a sensational combination that belongs to Taiwan and can be indulged in only at Le Moût. With classic French touches, I create my own “haute cuisine” by fusing local produce with luxury ingredients from all over the world.

– What do you think is the most important thing customers look for in a restaurant, besides the food?

– Courteous and gracious service. We also like to share the pleasure and passion that derives from food. Guests also expect wellappointed interiors, exquisite table settings, and exceptional gastronomy … all these elements need to converge to create lasting impressions.

– Which cooking styles would you like to explore in the future that so far you have not?

– Fusing the essence of Chinese and French cuisines. This defines my personal style.

I find it interesting to reinterpret Chinese cuisine through the logic of French haute cuisine. Chinese cuisine is so familiar to me, but it's also very complicated. It may be my biggest challenge as a chef.

Chen will receive her award at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony on February 24, 2014, in Singapore.

FEBRUARY 2014 | 49

LIFESTYLE FASHION

GEOMETRIC

inspiration

ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS HAVE USED SQUARES, TRIANGLES, RECTANGLES, CIRCLES, AND OTHER GEOMETRICAL SHAPES FROM BABYLONIAN TIMES TILL TODAY.

U

sed in construction, navigation, and surveying by Babylonians and Egyptians, and then passed on to the Greeks, geometry started as a collection of rules created to understand lengths, areas, and volumes.

Artists and architects—and, more recently, fashion designers— have sought inspiration in geometric figures for centuries. In the 20th century, whether it has been to build pyramids or to draw recurring motifs that artists like Piet Mondrian painted on canvases and fashion designers like Madeleine Vionnet and Gabrielle Chanel printed on dresses in the 1920s, the influence of squares, triangles, rectangles, circles, ovals, pentagons, and other geometrical shapes—as the base of objects’ shapes, the spatial relationships among them, and the properties of surrounding space—is undeniable even today.

Lookeast found geometric inspiration in the outfits of Pomelo’s new collection, and in one of Sansiri’s newest condominiums, and put them together for this month’s fashion section. This is the outcome.

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FEBRUARY 2014 | 51

LIFESTYLE FASHION

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PHOTOGRAPHER: Alisa Hubert | APPAREL: Pomelo, Fresh From Seoul, Hk, Tokyo (●www.pomelofashion.com) MODEL: Vanessa Supharat Kul HAIR STYLIST: Duangporn Bumrungtham MAKEUP ARTIST: Usani Korsoongsak LIGHTING: Thanyarat Phumpaka PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: Thungtong LOCATION: Sari By Sansiri (●Sukhumvit Soi 64, Bangkok, www.sansiri.com/Condominium/Sari/En)

FEBRUARY 2014 | 53

LIFESTYLE SHOPPING

Céline Trapeze handbag

Wooden iPhone case

Gaysorn G Floor. THB 107,000

Chatuchak Weekend Market. THB 200

Shop

Till You

DROP! Emporio Armani cross-body bag

“Bite Sized Thai Food”

by Srisamorn Kongpun.

Asia Books. THB 695

Gaysorn G floor

Valentine’s Day special!

Three diamond rings, white gold, and rose gold. Siam Tiara, 1st Floor

Emilio Pucci

Cruise collection scarf.

Gaysorn G Floor, Siam Paragon M Floor. THB 18,600

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LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

Accessories with the colors of Thailand Along the roadside. THB 20

Alex’s il Sarto Measures to Excellence Exquisitely tailored suits Exclusively for you

Tailoring for connoisseurs with taste.

We create perfect apparel for gentlemen. In order to avoid disappointment, we ask you please note the following: Our house does not promise any cheap, unrealistic package deals. Only the best value for money. Dare to prove us wrong!

We are located directly across the Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok. Just ask the staff for directions.

117-121 New Rd., Bangrak 44 (Beside Shangri-La Hotel), Bangkok 10500, Thailand.

Tel: +662 237 3229, +662 237 3216 Fax: +662 236 4459 Mobile: +668 1837 9807 E-mail: ts@alexsfashion.com/ alex@alexsfashion.com Visit us at http://www.alexsfasion.com

LIFESTYLE COVER STORY

BANGKOK’S COSMOPOLITAN CONTEMPORARY ART SCENE 6

1.100 Tonson Gallery 100 (●Soi

Tonson, Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, Pathumwan, www.100tonsongallery.com) The first gallery from Thailand and the only one from Southeast Asia to exhibit at Switzerland’s Art Basel 2011, 100 Tonson Gallery is a pioneer in showcasing art and video installations, as well as conceptual art. The gallery showcases local and international contemporary artists, and participates in international art fairs. Open Thursday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

(Monday to Wednesday by appointment)

Mo Chit Saphan Khwai Ari Sanam Pao

2. Akko Art Gallery

er

Phaya Thai

Chaopraya Riv

(●919/1 Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Thong Lo, 02 259 1436, www.akkoart.com) Contemporary abstract artwork, and traditional painting.

Oils, watercolors, acrylic, etchings, woodcut prints, and mixed-media work

by Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean, and other international artists.

Open Monday to Saturday (closed Sundays) 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Ratchathewi 3

1

National Stadium

3.Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (●939 Rama 1 Road, Wangmai,

Pathumwan, 02 214 6630–8, BTS National Stadium Station, www.bacc. or.th) The center holds programs for art, music, theater, film, design, and cultural/ educational events. It also features a café, restaurants, bookshops, and an art library. Open Tuesday to Sunday (closed Mondays) 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

4.H Gallery (●201 Sathorn Soi 12,

BTS Chong Nonsi, 085 021 5508, www. hgallerybkk.com) Established in 2002, H Gallery is one of Asia’s leading venues for regional and international art. All exhibitions are organized or curated by Irish-born Brian Curtin, who received his PhD in fine arts from the University of Bristol, U.K. Open Wednesday to Monday (closed Tuesdays) from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

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(In te r S Ch chan iam it Lo ge s m ta tio Ph n) lo en Ch it

Victory Monument

Ratchadamri 8

9

7

Wongwian Yai Kr

4

Sala Daeng Chong Nonsi

un

Surasak Saphan Taksin

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Whether you always visit a contemporary art gallery as part of your travels, are an avid collector, or if even your relationship with art is more that of the memory of the Picassos you drew on your home’s walls when you were little, you can’t miss these art galleries showcasing contemporary art from Thailand and abroad.

Sukhuvit Route Silom Route 5.Lalanta

(●245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02 260 5381, 02 204 0583, www.lalanta. com) Features contemporary works of acclaimed and up-and-coming artists, connecting young Asian contemporary artists to an international audience. Open Tuesday to Saturday (closed Mondays) from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

6.Museum of Contemporary Art in Bangkok, MOCA (●499

Kamphaengphet 6 Rd, Ladyao, Chatuchak, BTS Mo Chit, 02 953 1005–7) As one of its missions is to preserve and protect Thai art and culture, MOCA seeks to encourage newcomers in various branches of the arts. Open Tuesday to Sunday (Closed Mondays) 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

7.Serindia Gallery

(●OP Garden 4, 6 Soi Charoen Krung 36 Unit 3101, 3201 Charoen Krung Road, BST Saphan Taksin, 02 238 6410, www. serindiagallery.com) Located in a boutique shopping arcade by the Chao Phraya River, this gallery features the work of both Thai and international artists. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (Mondays by appointment only)

2

5

Nana Asok

8.Tang Gallery (●The Silom Galleria,

Phrom Phong Thong Lo

Unit B-28, BTS Surasak, 02 630 1114) Featuring paintings, photographs, and other artwork by Chinese contemporary artists since 2001. Open Monday to Saturday (closed Sundays) from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Ekkamai Phra Khanong On Nut Bangchak Punnawithi Udom Suk Bang Na Bearing

9.River City (●23 Trok

Rongnamkhaeng, Si Phaya Pier, Yota Road, Sampantawong, BTS Saphan Taksin, 02 237 0077–8, www.rivercity.co.th) River city does not hold permanent exhibitions but it has, at least, one different show per month, featuring paintings, sculptures, photography, mixed media, and others, from both Thai and international artists in one of its two exhibition rooms. Open Monday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; specific times depend on the exhibition FEBRUARY 2014 | 57

Make an Adventuresome Escape to a Far East inspired sanctuary – Oasis Spa – an alluring haven of relaxation far from life's turmoil. A place both intimate and exotic, regal and resplendent with reflecting pools, waterfalls, lush gardens of tropical trees and flowers, and private treatment villas. At Oasis Spas, you will enjoy world class treatments and personalized Customer Service that assures each spa experience is a relaxing retreat. Branches are conveniently located in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, and Pattaya. Choose any treatment and gentle therapists will transport you to a state of serenity, enhanced beauty and greater health. Enjoy the Unforgettable “Thai Lanna Spa Experience” and discover for yourself why The Oasis Spa received the coveted "Tourism Award of Excellence Day Spa" multiple times along with many other prestigious awards.

LIFESTYLE SPA OFFERS

Reiki Healing

What: Reiki is a Japanese word that means “the universal life force” energy. It’s a hands-on healing technique practiced to treat physical ailments without applying pressure like massage or acupressure. This holistic system balances, heals, and harmonizes the body, mind, and emotions. Reiki can effect change in chemical structures in the body by helping to regenerate organs and rebuild tissues and bones.

When: Ongoing Where: AKA Holistic Wellness (●Silom Village Soi 31, Bangkok) How much: For one reiki session at THB 1,500, get one free aura scan (before and after session) valued THB 1,600 More info: 02 259 2288, www.aka-holistic.com

Mama’s Secret for a Beautiful You

What: Because skin goes through big changes during pregnancy, Mama’s Secret has designed a line of moisturizing products especially for pregnant women, including a daily calming moisturizer, soothing oil spray, and intensive belly cream. Not only they will help prevent stretch marks, and comfort you from itchy skin associated with the rapid expanding of the belly, but they will also help you to look your best during those nine months.

When:Ongoing Where: Mama’s Secret (●Soi Pasana 2, Ekamai Rd, Bangkok) How much: Varies More info: 083 031 1685, www.facebook.com/Mamassecret.thai

Banyan Tree Gallery

What: Australian qi gong master, Andy Mack, will lead you through a series of poses and movements that will leave you feeling the benefits of this ancient practice from the very first session. This program has been designed particularly to help release tension. In private sessions, Andy can custom-fit the program to your specific physical needs.

When: Wednesdays and Fridays 10:30 a.m. to 12 p.m.

Where: omroom (●8F Alma Link Building No. 25, Soi Chidlom, Ploenchit Road) How much: THB for a 90-minute class, or THB 1,500 for a private session More info: 082 352 4466, 02 655 6282, www.omroom.net

Qigong Vitality

Qi Gong Class

Pampering Spa Amenities at Banyan Tree Gallery

What: Recreate an indulging spa experience reminiscent of the tranquil sanctuary of the award-winning Banyan Tree Spa in your home with a visit to Banyan Tree Gallery. The shop features an assortment of natural essential oils, hand-dipped incense sticks, lead-free ceramic burners, and signature hair and body care products.

When: Daily from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Where: Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel (●21/100 South Sathorn Road, Bangkok 10120), 21st floor How much: Products starting THB 150 More info: 02 679 1200 ext 1522, www.banyantreegallery.com

AKA Holistic Wellness

OR'S EDITIC P K

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LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

What: Rekindle your romance with The Spa’s Strawberry in Love package for two.

Couples will relax and indulge in milk and strawberry body masks, with strawberry body scrub and aromatherapy massage.

When: Daily from 9 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., until March 31, 2014 Where: The Spa (●2nd floor Main Wing, Ambassador Hotel Bangkok, 171 Sukhumvit Soi 11) How much: Buy 1 get 1 free at THB 3,000 net per couple (normal price THB 3,000 net per person) More info: 02 254 0444 ext. 1254, spabkk@amtel.co.th, www.amtel.co.th

Ambassador Hotel Bangkok

Strawberry In Love Package

EXPERIENCE THE EXCELLENCE

Monday to Sunday: Dinner 06:00 p.m.-12:00 a.m. (last order 11:00 p.m.)

1,000+ Wine Labels 32 By-the-Glass Wine 3 Theme Rooms 1 Cigar Room Wine Dinners / Wine Workshop & Tastings European Bistro Cuisine

71/1 Soi Sukhumvit 11 Bangkok 10110

Special Promotion: Monday to Friday: Business Set Lunch THB 599++, Executive Set Lunch THB 899++ (Three-Course) 11:30 a.m. – 02:30 p.m.

Tuesday: Ladies Night Free-Flow Red and White Wine from 06:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.

Sunday: Brunch THB 1,250++ plus THB 500++ Free-Flow Wine (Sparkling, White, Red) 11:00 a.m. – 02:30 p.m.

Tel: +66 2 255 5833-35

Fax: +66 2 255 5836

www.cellar11.com

Facebook.com/Cellar11

LIFESTYLE SPORTS

Exploring Thailand on Two HumanPowered Wheels Whether it is to ride through the city or to travel from one city to the next, cycling has become a preferred means of transportation in Thailand among locals and tourist alike.

by Jimmy Jacquet

T

he Tour de France celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2013, and its continued popularity as sporting event that captures the public imagination goes far beyond the world of elite cycling.

Cycling is becoming increasingly popular in a world where people are increasingly environmentally friendly and health-conscious. According to the National Cycling Charity, while in countries like the U.K. the mileage cycled went up 20 percent in 15 years, from 4 billion kilometers in 1998 to 5 billion kilometers in 2012, Fausto Izquiel, director at Bangkok’s Bike Zone (●www.bikezone.co.th)—a shop that sells top bicycle brands such as Cervélo, Marin, and CEEPO and provides professional bike fitting—assures us this global trend took off Thailand three years ago.

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Rent-A-Bike in Bangkok

With the intention of encouraging the use of bicycles instead of cars, in 2012 Bangkok proudly released the Pun Pun (●www. punpunbikeshare.com) program. Whether bikes are used for short distances or to run quick errands, this alternative method of transportation offers daily bicycle rental at a reasonable rates: the first 15 minutes are free of charge, while one to three hours cost around THB 10, although overnight use is not permitted and comes with a THB 550 fine per day. Initially, there were only two Pun Pun stations, but now more than 50 stations across town offer more than 400 bikes to eco-friendly commuters. To use the service, you should register on the website and collect your smart card, which you will be able to top up, and check your balance, at each station.

Competitions in Thailand

Another cycling milestone in Thailand took place in September 2013, when Bangkok hosted the biggest cycling get-together to date. On the occasion, around 20,000 participants dressed in white, red, and blue to create a large living flag in the streets of Bangkok.

More recently, on December 7 and 8, the coastal district of Hua Hin hosted the 7th edition of one of the most important events of the year: the King’s Cup MTB race and the Queen’s Cup road tour race, which involved a road cycling race and a mountain bike race.

And, this February 16, Chiang Mai will be hosting the most exciting and challenging bike race of 2014 with the 7th Annual Conquer Doi Inthanon Ride and the ascension of Thailand’s highest peak

at the Phuket Bike Resort (●108 Moo 4, Tambol Thepkasattri, Bangtao Beach, Phuket). Besides providing free bikes for guests to use—and enough space to park your own—the resort offers luxurious and stylish suites inspired by cycling, such as the Bike Studio and the Bike Duplex, fully equipped for short- and long-stay holidays.

See Thailand by Land … on Your Bike

Shutterstock

Travelling on two human-powered wheels will give you an exclusive opportunity to go off the beaten track and meet local people while witnessing sights that most tourists never experience. When you get tired, however, keep in mind it always is very easy to put your bike on a bus or train and cover some stretches while resting for a while.

Thailand is safe for traveling by road, but the heat and humidity can be tough for some people to handle, it’s true. Remember to drink water on a frequent basis, and to take a nap in the hot midday hours.

Mosquitoes can also turn your cycling vacation into a nightmare, so use insect repellent. Also, do remember that in the middle of the wilderness, you may not come across an ATM, so withdraw sufficient money for the way. Make sure to have a good quality map because away from the tourist trail, signs tend to be written only in Thai. For this same reason, learning a few expressions in the local language could make your trip much easier. These are a few recommended routes: ● Chiang Khong to Chiang Mai: Cruise from Laos’s border to Thailand’s former capital ● Chiang Mai to Mae Sot: Get close to the Burmese border riding through Chiang Mai province

● Mae Sot to Kanchanaburi: A route of historic temples toward the bridge on the River Kwai ● Pratchuap Kiri Khan to Ao Nang Beach: Ride through beaches and palm trees from the eastern to the western coasts.

Whether you are looking for a challenging ride or a friendly familyoriented trip, many travel agencies offer custom made bike tours. Some companies that sell and rents bikes, and offer accessories, tours, and cycling information in Thailand are: Active Thailand (●www.activethailand.com/cycling) Amazing Bike Tours (●www.amazingbiketoursthailand.asia) Bicycle Thailand (●www.bicyclethailand.com) Bike Zone Recommended! (●www.bikezone.co.th) Boom Bike Tours (●www.boombikerides.com) Cycling Thailand (●www.cyclingthailand.com) Red Spokes (●www.redspokes.co.uk) Siam Bike Tours Recommended! (●http://siambiketours.com/en) Spice Roads (●www.spiceroads.com) Thailand Cycling Club (●www.facebook.com/thaicycling) X Biking Chiang Mai (●www.x-bikingchiangmai.com) Enjoy your time cycling in Thailand, and always remember to wear a helmet, as you never know when an elephant could come out of nowhere!

For official updates about bicycle races and events throughout the Thailand, register at the Thai Cycling Association (●www.thaicycling.or.th)

Other upcoming cycling events in Thailand: March 16: Amarin Outdoor Unlimited International Triathlon 2014, Phetchaburi March 21–23: Thanyapura 500 Cycle Tour, Phuket March 27–30: The Circle Summer Bike Fest, Bangkok May 31: The Singha River Kwai Trophy 2014 Adventure Race, Kanchanaburi

Cycling with the Family

If you are a cycling fan and are looking for a fun family experience or a weekend getaway from Bangkok, you might want to stay

Shutterstock + Pressmaster

(2,565 meters). The range of distances to cover goes from 16 to 50 kilometers, and the race is open to several categories according male/female, age groups, and bicycle type (and tire size).

Participate next February 16 in Chiang Mai's 7th Annual Conquer Doi Inthanon Ride

FEBRUARY 2014 | 63

White tiles, painted brick walls and wooden panels in Tribeca

Tribeca

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

NEW YORK STATE OF MIND HAVE BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER OR BRUNCH AT TRIBECA RESTOBAR’S ALL-DAY DINING FEATURING TREATS THAT RANGE FROM A GRANOLA & YOGHURT PARFAIT TO BACON-INFUSED OLD FASHIONEDS. t was just 12 months ago that the brunch-scape of Bangkok lay barren, when choices outside hotels were few and far between. But the arrival of Tribeca Restobar (●Ground floor, Nihonmura Mall, 85 Thonglor Soi 13, Bangkok, 02 7129209, www.tribecarestobar.com), in July 2012 encapsulated a shift in eating habits: a brunch revolution that is now in full swing, much to the delight of locals who have experienced the meal in brunch food capitals such as New York City and Las Vegas.

Tribeca Restobar is the brainchild (or shall we say foodchild) of brother and sister team Rishi and Shareen Arora, who have struck gold with their first culinary outing. After several visits to New York and an over-the-shoulder glance at Shareen’s cooking studies at Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School in Bangkok, Rishi had “found his calling,” he says. The two decided to bring a slice of New York to Bangkok, and they have been cramming in diners ever since.

The interior, courtesy of Whitespace design studio, captures the essence of the triangular area below Canal Street in Manhattan. A map of the district fills the entire northern wall of the rectangular

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space. White tiles, painted brick walls and wooden panels, along with three leather booths complete the loft ambience that is bathed in plenty of natural light during the day. The after-work and evening crowd enjoys a more muted ambience with the lights (housed in rustic copper fittings) turned down low and the glowing colors of the illuminated bar dictating the mood.

There’s space enough for 50, including a group of 14 at a table on the mezzanine level, plus a smoking section outside.

The all-day menu embraces the full-calorie fervor at the core of New York comfort cuisine, covering all meals from breakfast to dinner (9 a.m. to midnight).

The Granola & Yoghurt Parfait (THB 195++) features Greek yoghurt and homemade granola for a healthy start to the day. Brioche Pain Perdu (THB 240++) continues the sweet bent, propelled by caramelized bananas and walnuts. The Reuben (THB 240+) is the city’s best take on the classic sandwich with pastrami from local artisanal butcher Joe Sloane, in place of the traditional corned beef, and a Russian sauce to bind it all together.

Tribeca also works as a dessert destination, spearheaded by the signature New York cheesecake (THB 125++) among

Tribeca

by Richard Mcleish

Tribeca

I

other offerings—all created with French flour and butter. The all-important coffee is a single-origin blend from Chiang Rai that is roasted locally. Bread and croissants are courtesy of famed local bakery Maison Jean Phillipe. Cocktails include classics with a twist, such as the Bacon-Infused Old Fashioned (THB 290++), served complete with a crispy strip of pork for a full-flavored effect. And the punters keep coming back, including local celeb couple Chakrit and Woonsen and hip-hoppers Thaitanium.

The success of Tribeca evidence of the maturing palate of a city that is only starting to realize its self-proclaimed status as a food capital of the world. But Rishi isn’t bothered by the competition.

“It’s a good challenge to innovate and create different things constantly,” he says.

With full flavors, a smart interior, and a commitment to innovation, Tribeca has overlaid a New York state of mind on the city, which has embraced it with open arms and appetites.

Chai latte

Club sandwich

Open daily from 9 a.m. to midnight; kitchen closes Monday to Friday from 3:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK’S NEW ADDITIONS TO THE CITY’S NIGHTLIFE: CHILI HIP RESTAURANT AND WALK BAR.

I

by Federico Brandi

Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok

Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok

f you are familiar with the Pratunam district, you know that it is a paradise for shopaholics and a nightmare in terms of the traffic, the crowds, and the noise. Yet when I arrived to the Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok (●567 Ratchaprarop Road, Makkasan, Bangkok, 02 625 1234, www.centarahotelsresorts. com/centara/cwb), I was not sure I was in the same area, but rather felt as though I had been teleported away from the chaos.

Pratunam is the heart of the city’s wholesale and retail garment business, with Pratunam Market—Thailand’s

Walk, a trendy place to chill

largest clothing market—and the nearby Ratchaprarop shopping district and malls such as Pantip Plaza, Central World, Gaysorn, Siam Paragon, and Siam Discovery. Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel recently opened two spaces for eating and drinking while still feeling the vibe of this busy area in town, yet in a space that allows to disconnect from it all.

The Chili Hip restaurant, set on the hotel’s 20th-floor rooftop, is a fashionable yet casual venue that serves modern and creative Thai, Korean, Japanese, and Chinese cuisine, against a breathtaking panorama of the city. The dining room features a modern design based on simple features and a balanced combination of a red and black, and has a seating capacity of 64 people, including a small private room surrounded by red glass walls.

The menu, created by Italian chef John Ranaudo, is an interesting reinterpretation of traditional Thai and Western dishes that use typical ingredients of Thai cuisine—such as lemongrass, coconut milk, and sticky rice—combined in different proportions to achieve a balanced flavor.

And while the menu is Asian to the core,

Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok

WALK AND CHILL ON A HIP ROOFTOP AT PRATUNAM

The entrance to Chili Hip

the use of some Western favorites, such as gnocchi or ravioli, surprise the palate. As I am a chocoholic, my favorite was the “The Chili Dome”: a thin chocolate dome filled with spicy chocolate mousse, served with almond croquant, mango, and raspberry jelly.

Right above Chili Hip, on the 21st level, Walk is a trendy place to chill and enjoy the view of the downtown while not being involved in its chaos. The menu includes a huge variety of snacks like samosas, spicy fish cakes, and deep-fried chicken drumsticks, as well as drinks. The lounge’s cocktails are also inspired by Thai cuisine, such as the Tom Khar martini and the Tom Yum on the Rock. While the first is sweet and spicy, thanks to the coconut cream and fresh galangal, the second is strong and spicy due to the vodka and lime juice, combined with kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, and galangal. But they both have one thing in common: the unusual yet delicious taste of Thai food in a drink.

The venue features different music styles, from R & B and pop to lounge and ambient, played every night by local and international DJs, while a big screen on the wall projects fashion shows with the stunning view of Bangkok by night behind it.

Chili Hip and Walk are two welcome additions to Bangkok’s culinary and nightlife scene, as they give patrons the opportunity to experience the busy Pratunam district—arguably Bangkok’s next place to be—in a quieter and more relaxed way.

FEBRUARY 2014 | 65

Celebrate Valentine’s Day at Tower Club at lebua

What: Enjoy an exclusive seven-course dinner for two at the Mediterranean restaurant Sirocco for THB 21,999++ per couple. At Sky Bar, the drinks package is priced at THB 9,500++ per couple inclusive of a bottle of GH Mumm Cordon Rouge Champagne. Mezzaluna will offer a seven-course tasting menu for THB 6,500++ per person, plus wine pairing for THB 4,500++ a head. Breeze will offer a tasting menu for THB 5,500++ per person, plus wine pairing for an extra THB 3,500++ a head. The action continues poolside with an international buffet at the all-dining restaurant, Café Mozu, priced at THB 1,550++ per person.

When: February 14 Where: Tower Club at lebua (●1055 Silom Road, Bangrak, Bangkok) How much: See above More info: 02 624 9998, www.lebua.com

Yamazato Restaurant Pays Dining Specials at Swissôtel Le Concorde Tribute to Historic Girls’ What: To celebrate 2014, Takumi Festival Japanese restaurant has created exclusive What: Yamazato, the signature Japanese restaurant at The Okura Prestige Bangkok, celebrates the historic Japanese Girls’ Festival with special set lunch and dinner menus created by legendary Master Chef Shigaru Hagiwara.

When: From February 22, 2014, until March 3, 2014, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Where: Yamazato (●24th Floor of The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Road, Bangkok) How much: Set lunch for THB 800; fivecourse dinner plus rice and dessert for THB 3,000.

More info: 02 687 9000, yamazato@ okurabangkok.com

Be My Valentine

LOOKEAST | WINE & DINE

food experience with unagi. Also, for the first time ever at Loong Foong Chinese restaurant, you will be able to taste the finest menu of pigeon and enjoy the Lobster Festival, 2014 (pre-bookings recommended). And while Le Concorde Deli has introduced “Creamcheese Sweet and Savory,” the CrossRoad Bar on the ground floor introduces the Burgers & Beer Festival, where attendees will have a chance to enjoy free-flow brews accompanied by a variety of burger bites for only THB 840 net per person from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

When: Lobster Festival until February 28, 2014; Burgers & Beer Festival every Friday until March 30 2014; rest of the offers are ongoing.

Where: Swissôtel Le Concorde (●204 Rachadapisek Road, Huay Kwang, Bangkok) How much: Varies More info: 02 694 2222

Valentine’s Day Wine Dinner

Indus

What: Treat your special someone to a sumptuous dinner at Indus Indian restaurant’s Valentine Special. The menu includes crisp pappadum; lamb cutlets with ginger, turmeric, peppercorns and dried mint; sea bass fillet marinated in aromatic herbs and grilled over charcoal; a choice of Goan-style tiger prawns, boneless mutton masala, or chicken tikka; slow-cooked black lentils; basmati saffron pulao, naan, and velvet cake and mango kulfi, and either Indian masala chai or Illy coffee.

When: February 14 Where: Indus (●71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, BTS Phrom Pong, Bangkok) How much: THB 2,999++ for two people, including a bottle of Spanish sparkling wine (cava)

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Swissôtel Le Concorde

lebua

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

WINE&DINE DINING SPECIALS

What: Celebrate with the Valentine’s Day Wine Dinner at L’Appart. Savor a four-course dinner—paired with premium wines—that includes homemade foie gras, crab tartare, wet snow fish, and other delicious dishes.

When: February 14 Where: L’Appart, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit (●189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 1315, Bangkok) How much: THB 3,999 per person for a four-course Valentine’s Day Wine Dinner; à la carte from THB 450 net per dish More info: 02 126 9999 ext. L’Appart; h5213-fb10@sofitel.com

Cape Dara Resort Pattaya

The Banyan Tree

Romantic Dinner by the Beach

What: Cape Dara Resort Pattaya invites you to enjoy a “Romantic Dinner” with your toes in the white sand and the sparkling stars above you. Taste a wide range of mouthwatering dishes, including fresh Belgian lettuce marinated with orange dressing and roasted walnuts; ravioli stuffed with foie gras and mushrooms with pink tomato sauce; snow fish two ways, pan-roasted and poached with lemon butter sauce, served with sautéed spinach; and boiled potato chocolate lava for dessert.

When: February 14 Where: Cape Dara Resort Pattaya (●256 Dara Beach, Soi 20, Pattaya-Naklua Road, Pattaya) How much: THB 6,200 net per couple (only 10 couples) More info: 038 933 888, www.capedarapattaya.com

Valentine’s Day Celebrations at The Banyan Tree

What: Cupid is sharpening his arrows and getting ready to work his magic yet again.

Fall in love with one of the menus that The Banyan Tree Bangkok has prepared for this Valentine’s Day. Enjoy a five-course romantic gourmet dinner at Vertigo, including a chilled glass of Champagne at THB 8,800++ per couple. Celebrate the day of romance with a Cantonese twist at Bai Yun with a THB 3,600++ dinner per couple, including a romance cocktail for each. Saffron will offer a five-course loveinspired menu at THB 4,000++ per couple, inclusive of a glass of sparkling wine per person. And Romsai hosts a Valentine’s dinner buffet at THB 1,800++ per person, including a glass of bubbly. And what could be more romantic than an intimate sunset dinner while cruising along the River of Kings? Embark on a journey of love aboard the Apsara Dinner Cruise on a Valentine’s Escapade Dinner at THB 4,888++ per couple, inclusive of a welcome cocktail per person. All ladies will receive a longstemmed rose.

When: February 14 Where: Banyan Tree Bangkok (●21/100 South Sathon Road) How much: See above More info: 02 679 1200, www.banyantree.com/en/bangkok

The Oyster Bar Bangkok’s Sunday Offer

What: Enjoy a Sunday afternoon at TOB with fresh shucked oysters at a 50 percent discount. Also, try their fresh fish and chef specials with a 20 percent discount.

Bookings are recommended.

When: Sundays from 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Where: The Oyster Bar Bangkok (●Narathiwas, Soi 24, Chongnonsi, Bangkok) How much: Varies More info: 02 212 4809

What: The SQUARE at Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square invites all the lovers in town to indulge in an international buffet in celebration of Valentine’s Day. Enjoy a special Indian corner, live grill, and Japanese sushi and sashimi bar, accompanied by imported cheese, desserts, fresh coffee or tea, homemade ice cream, strawberry creations, a crêpe station, and a deluxe chocolate fountain.

When: February 14 Where: Siam Square (●Sukhumvit Soi 20) How much: THB 1,300++ per person, includes a glass of sparkling wine More info: 02 209 8888, www.novotelbkk.com

Thai Afternoon Tea at Hua Chang Heritage

What: Experience a traditional Thai afternoon tea, named Sri-Tong. The set offers includes Siamese sweets such as look chub, khao tang mieng lao, lah tieng, garee puff, and moh gaeng tua, as well as hot and cold drinks, including premium tea and coffee, as well as fresh herbal drinks.

When: Daily from 1:30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Where: The Ivory Lounge, Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Bangkok (●400 Phayathai Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok) How much: THB 600++ for two people More info: 02 217 0721, 02 217 0777

Hua Chang Heritage

The Oyster Bar Bankok

Time for Love

FEBRUARY 2014 | 67

WINE&DINE BAR REVIEW

WINE & DINE IN BISTRO STYLE WITH BISTRO CUISINE TO COMPLEMENT ITS MORE THAN 1,000 WINES, CELLAR 11 OFFERS UNUSUAL VINTAGES FROM EQUALLY UNUSUAL ORIGINS. ORDER A BOTTLE, A GLASS, OR TASTE JUST A SIP FOR THB 50.

by Laurence Civil

A

Cellar 11

Cellar 11

hidden gem that pours what is possibly Bangkok’s best selection of wines by the glass, Cellar 11 Wine Bar & Bistro (●71/1 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02 255 5833/5, www.cellar11.com) is located in a purposebuilt three-storey house, in a sub-soi off Sukhumvit 11 behind President Solitaire Hotel & Spa. On arrival, guests pass through a floorto-ceiling library of wine bottles on both sides, with a communal tasting table in the middle. In the area behind, a more formal yet equally comfortable dining room serves French and Italian food. The a la carte

The Moët & Chandon Grand Champagne Cellar

NEW!

Monday to Friday: Business set lunch THB 599++, Executive set lunch THB 899 ++ (three-course)

TAKE A PHOTO OF THIS PAGE, SHOW IT AT CELLAR 11, AND GET 10% DISCOUNT ON FOOD DURING FEBRUARY AND MARCH 2014!

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LOOKEAST | WINE & DINE

Communal tasting table

menu is shown to the guest more as a point of reference—in reality, it’s common for people to order dishes that best suit the wines they are drinking.

Cellar 11 has more than 1,000 labels on its wine list, offering customers the chance to taste unusual wines from equally unusual origins. The key to their wine by the glass experience is the four Enomatic wine dispensing machines, each of which stores eight bottles, giving guests access to 32 wines that change monthly. Prices range from just THB 50 for a sip to THB 3,500 for an exceptional glass. The capital investment for one of this machines in the region is approximately THB 500,000; some may think of it as an extravagant indulgence, but that’s what it takes to offer curious palates a wine they had previously only dreamed of tasting, and because offering wines by the glass is key to encouraging the next purchase to be a full bottle.

A unique aspect to Cellar 11 is the

thematic wine rooms. Underground, the Moët & Chandon Grand Champagne Cellar mirrors a similar one in Reims, France, with a single dining table for ten. The other two are on the second floor: the Robert Mondavi Room, exclusively for wines from Napa Valley, and the Penfolds Grange Room, dedicated to the premium label from Australia, among others. There is a private dining room with its own kitchen and a separate cigar lounge as well.

Sunday brunch has become the norm in Bangkok, and Cellar 11’s version, served from 11:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., is superbly leisurely. Starting with a pre-lunch all-youcan-eat buffet appetizer offering a selection of salad, cold cuts, cold seafood, imported cheeses, and pasta a la minute, and then a four-course a la carte menu with a choice of six dishes per course at THB 1,250 ++, brunch wouldn’t be complete without adding the free flow of red, white, and sparkling wines for another THB 500 ++.

Ocean Bangkok

WINE&DINE BAR REVIEW

Ocean Pool Lounge

AN URBAN OASIS OCEAN BANGKOK BRINGS THE STYLISH CONCEPT OF AN URBAN RESORT TO THE CROWDED HEART OF BANGKOK.

New Thai mojito

B

angkok can get overwhelming from time to time, and when you feel like getting out but don’t have the time to travel outside the city, urban resorts like Ocean Bangkok (●Sukhumvit Soi 33, Phromg Phong BTS, 02 261 2800, www. oceanbangkok.com) are a good option to escape the city’s noise and chaos for a bit.

Drawing on his experience in hotels

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Ocean Bangkok

Ocean Bangkok

by Federico Brandi

Tuna and tomato tartare at Gastro-Tapas Bar

and resorts around the world, Franck Delen thought of creating a peaceful island in the middle of Bangkok. He realized his vision when he recently opened Ocean Bangkok, by putting together a qualified team that includes Jacopo Astray, a Spanish chef who worked at the award-winning elBulli restaurant; Joseph Boroski, an experienced mixologist; Martine Pailloux, an expert globetrotter designer; and Orawan, an

avant-garde DJ with a taste for quality music. And of course Ocean, the mascot dog, who runs around making sure that everyone is doing their job!

Passing through the entrance, you will leave behind the bustle and clamor of the metropolis to enjoy superb cuisine and drinks while tanning or stargazing by the pool—and maybe having a massage, too.

The first thing I noticed when entering this urban oasis was the White Ocean Spa and Well-Being Center next to the entrance. It’s a small and cozy spot for beauty and relaxation treatments. After the spa, on the left, the Ocean Mixology Bar provides a large space to warm up for the evening while tasting cocktails and mocktails.

In the main area, a truly classy touch of this urban resort beckons: the Ocean Pool Lounge, an ideal location for sunbathing and swimming during the day, or enjoying a drink with friends in the evening. I arrived at Ocean at sunset.

With a perfectly designed arrangement of colors and lights, inviting cushions, and a relaxing atmosphere that makes you doubt you are still in Bangkok, the venue looked astonishing.

On the right-hand side of the pool, Ocean Gastro-Tapas Bar offers modern Mediterranean–Asian fusion cuisine.

The concept behind the bar is called “bistronomy”—a genuine and more affordable approach to modern cuisine, offering high-quality dishes in a more friendly and convivial environment. It’s a new idea for Thailand but is well known in Europe, particularly in France. The idea is simple: you don’t need to go to a trendy restaurant to find excellent food. You can eat it in a simple bistro, sharing time and food with your friends, and enjoying each other’s company.

The last thing you might notice is a small white door opposite reception … and that is the secret entrance to Ocean Below: a small but nicely designed club, with an excellent sound system, where good music is played by a lineup of international and local DJs. It is the combination of all these different features and atmospheres that make Ocean Bangkok a unique fixture in the city’s nightlife playground. Have Sunday brunch and relax by the pool, or party hard on a weekend night: Ocean Bangkok gives you the opportunities, but the choice is yours.

WINE&DINE BAR SPECIALS

Blues Artist Derrick Big Walker at Hotel Muse

What: Listen to legendary blues artist, Derrick Big Walker, while enjoying a drink at Medici Kitchen and Bar. When: Thursday to Sunday from 9:30 p.m. until late Where: Medici Kitchen and Bar, Hotel Muse Bangkok (●55/555 Langsuan Road, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok) How much: Varies More info: 02 630 4000, www.hotelmusebangkok.com

Shutterstock + Kesu

All-You-Can-Eat-and-Drink Tapas and Wine

Seven Wonders for Each Day of the Week

What: Enjoy promotions on drinks every day of the week at Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Bangkok. Monday: Happy hours with a buy-one-get-one-free standard drinks starting from 4 p.m. until midnight. Tuesday: “English classic” fish & chips + one standard drink at THB 399. Wednesday: “Italian night” pizza margherita + one standard drink or house wine or local beer at THB 399. Thursday: House wine by the glass at THB 99. Friday: “Burger & Brew” beef burger + one local beer at THB 399. Saturday: A bottle of wine with a cheese platter for THB 999. Sunday: Free flow of draught beer for THB 599. All prices are net.

When: Ongoing Where: Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Bangkok (●30 Sukhumvit Soi 21, Asoke) How much: See above More info: 02 204 4000, www.millenniumhotels.com

Jazz and Wine

What: Enjoy live jazz music at Aldo’s together with the bistro’s selected wine of the month, which during February will be from South Africa, at a promotional price.

When: Live jazz every Thursday from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Where: Aldo’s Bistro (●Level 7, The Ascott Sathorn Bangkok 187 South Sathorn Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok) How much: Wine by the glass around THB 430; bottles around THB 1,900 net More info: 02 676 6969, www.aldosbistro.com

What: Enjoy all-you-can-eat handcrafted tapas and all-you-can-drink wine from Australia, Chile, South Africa, and France to the rhythm and jazz and international music at Rendezvous bar.

When: Ongoing, every Friday and Saturday night from 5.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Reservation required for big groups.

Where: Rendezvous, The Landmark Bangkok (●138 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok) How much: THB 650++ per person More info: 02 254 0404, www.landmarkbangkok.com

50% Off Your Second Drink by the Poolside

What: Relax in the poolside’s sun loungers and order light bites or set menus from the Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s pool bar kitchen, and get 50 percent off every second drink.

When: Daily from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Where: Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit (●189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13–15, Bangkok) How much: Varies More info: 02 126 9999, www.sofitel-sukhumvit.com

Cocktail Marathon

What: Compete with your friends, or just enjoy the drinks at your own pace, at Aloft Hotel’s Cocktail Marathon, where you can drink all you want for three hours.

When: Fridays and Saturdays from 9 p.m. until midnight Where: The W XYZ Bar, Aloft Hotel (●35 Sukhumvit Soi 11) How much: THB 599++ per person More info: 02 207 7000, www.aloftbangkoksukhumvit11.com FEBRUARY 2014 | 71

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DIRECTORY HOTELS

BANGKOK AMARI BOULEVARD: 2 Soi 5 Sukhumvit Rd (Nana Bts) Tel: 02 255 2930, www.amari.com/boulevard AMARI DON MUANG AIRPORT: 333 Chert Wudthakas Rd, Don Muang Tel: 02 566 1020, www.amari.com/donmuang AMARI WATERGATE: 847 Petchburi Rd Tel: 02 653 9000, 02 653 9101/8, www.amari. com/watergate ANANTARA BANGKOK RESORT & SPA: 257 Charoennakorn Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS To hotel’s ferry) Tel: 02 476 0022, www.bangkok-riverside. anantara.com ATRIUM BANGKOK HOTEL: 1880 New Petchburi Rd, Bangkapi, Huay Kwang Tel: 02 718 2000-1, www.atriumbangkok.com BANYAN TREE BANGKOK: 21/100 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 679 1200, www.banyantree.com CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD: 999/99 Rama 1 Rd (Chidlom BTS)Tel: 02 100 1234, www. centralhotelresorts.com CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO: 1695 Phaholyothin Road, Chatuchak Tel: 02 541 1234 CONRAD BANGKOK ALL SEASONS PLACE: 87 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 690 9999, www.conradhotel.com

GRAND HYATT ERAWAN: 494 Ratchadamri Rd (Chidlom BTS) Tel: 02 254 1234, www.bangkok.grand.hyatt. com

PENINSULA BANGKOK: 333 Charoennakorn Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS to hotel ferry) Tel: 02 861 2888, www.bangkok. peninsula.com

HILTON SUKHUMVIT: 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Phrom Phong BTS) Tel: 02 620 6666, www.hilton.com

PLAZA ATHENEE HOTEL: 61 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 650 8800, www.hotel-plaza-athenee. com

HOLIDAY INN SILOM: 981 Silom Rd (Surasak BTS) Tel: 02 238 4300, www.holidayinnsilom.com KEMPINSKI SIAM HOTEL: 991/9 Rama I Rd (Siam BTS) Tel: 02 162 9000, www.kempinski.com MUSE HOTEL: 55/555 Langsuan Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 630 4000, www.hotelmusebangkok. com IMPERIAL QUEEN’S PARK: 199 sukhumvit Soi 22 (Phrom Phong BTS) Tel: 02 261 9000, www.imperialhotels.com/ queenspark INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK: 9743 Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS) Tel: 02 656 0444, www.intercontinental.com JW MARRIOTT BANGKOK: 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2 (Ploenchit BTs) Tel: 02 656 7700, www.marriot.com/bkkdt LANDMARK BANGKOK: 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 254 0404, www. landmarkbangkok.com

CROWNE PLAZA BANGKOK LUMPINI PARK: 952 Rama Iv Rd (Sala Daeng MRT) Tel: 02 632 9000, www.crownplazabkkk.com

FENIX, LE: 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 305 4000, www.lefenix-sukhumvit. com

DAVIS BANGKOK, THE: 88 Sukhumvit 24 (Phrom Phong BTS) Tel: 02 260 8000, www.davisbangkok.net

LEBUA AT STATE TOWER: 1055 Silom Rd (Surasak BTS) Tel: 02 624 9999, www.lebua.com/bangkok/

DREAM HOTEL: 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (Asoke Sala Daeng Sala Daeng BTS) Tel: 02 254 8500, www.dreambkk.com

MILLENNIUM HILTON: 123 Charoennakorn Rd (boat shuttle from Saphan Taksin BTS) Tel: 02 422 2000, www.bangkok.hilton.com

DUSIT THANI, THE: 946 Rama Iv Rd (Sala Daeng BTS) Tel: 02 200 9000, www.dusit.com EUGENIA, THE: 267 Sukhumvit Soi 3 Tel: 02 259 9011/7, www.theeugenia.com EASTIN GRAND HOTEL SATHORN: 33/1 South Sathorn Road (Surasak BTS) Tel: 02 210 8100, www.eastinbangkokhotel. com FOUR SEASONS BANGKOK: 155 Ratchadamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS) Tel: 02 126 8866, www.fourseasons.com/ bangkok FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON: Sukhumvit Soi 15 (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 309 3000, www.starwoodhotels.com

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METROPOLITAN, THE: 27 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 625 3333, www.metropolitan.com.bz NOVOTEL: 392/44 Siam Square (Siam BTS) Tel: 02-209-8888, www.novotelbkk.com ORIENTAL MANDARIN, THE: 48 Oriental Ave. (Saphan Taksin BTS to hotel ferry) Tel: 02 659 9000, www.mandarinoriental. com OKURA PRESTIGE, THE: 57 Wireless Rd (Phloen Chit BTS) Tel: 02 687 9000, www.okurabangkok.com PATHUMWAN PRINCESS: 444 Phayathai Rd (National Stadium BTS) Tel: 02 216 3700, www.dusit.com

PULLMAN SILOM HOTEL G: 188 Silom Rd (Chong Nonsi BTS) Tel: 02 238 1991/99, www. pullmanbangkokhotelg.com RADISSON SUITES: 23/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 13 (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 645 4999, www.radisson.com/ bangkokth_sukhumvit REMBRANDT HOTEL: 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 261 7100, www.rembrandtbkk.com RENAISSANCE HOTEL: 518/8 Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS) Tel: 02 125 5000, www.renhotels.com/ bangkok ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON: 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, Siphya Tel: 02 266 0123, www.royalotchidsheraton. com SHANGRI-LA, THE: 89 Charoen Krung Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS) Tel: 02 236 7777, www.shangri-la.com SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT: 250 Sukhumvit Rd (Asoke BTS) Tel: 02 649 8888, www.starwoodhotels.com/ bangkok SIAM HOTEL KEMPINSKI: 991/9 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam) Tel: 02 162 9000, www. kempinski.com SOFITEL BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT: 189 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 13-15 (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 126 9999 www.sofitel.com SOFITEL SO BANGKOK: 2 North Sathorn Road (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 624 0000 SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK, THE: 13/3 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 344 8888, www.sukothai.com SWISS HOTEL: 2 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 253 0123, www.bangkok-nailertpark. swisshotel.com SWISS LODGE: 3 Convent Rd (Sala Daeng BTS) Tel: 02 233 5345, www.swisslodge.com ST REGIS BANGKOK: 159 Rajdamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS) Tel: 02 207 7777, www.starwoodhotels.com

UNICO PREMIER METROLINK: 57 Asoke-Dindaeng Rd (Petchaburi MRT) Tel: 02 652 9000, www. unicopremiermetrolink.com VIE HOTEL BANGKOK: 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd (Phayathai BTS) Tel: 02 309 3939, www.viehotelbangkok.com WESTIN GRANDE SUKHUMVIT: 259 Sukhumvit Rd (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 207 8000, www.westin.com/bangkok WINDSOR SUITES HOTEL: 8-10 Sukhumvit Soi 20 (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 262 1234, www.windsorsuiteshotel. com PATTAYA AMARI ORCHID: Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 418 418, www.amari.com CENTARA GRAND MIRAGE BEACH RESORT: Pattaya 277 Moo 5 Tel: 038 301 234, www.centarahotelsresorts. com CENTARA GRAND RESIDENCE PATTAYA: Soi Na Jomtien 6, Moo 1, Jomtien Beach, Chonburi Tel: 038 706 407, www.cgrpattaya.com CAPE DARA RESORT: 256 Dara beach, Soi 20, Pattaya-Naklua Rd Tel: 038 933 888 DUSIT THANI: 240/2 Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 425 611/7, www.dusit.com GARDEN CLIFF RESORT & SPA: 220/2 Moo 5, Soi Naklua 16 Tel: 038 259 333, www.gardencliffpattaya. com HILTON PATTAYA HOTEL: 333/101 Moo 9 Tel: 038 253 000, www.hilton.com HARD ROCK HOTEL: 429 Moo 9, Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 428 755/9 , www.hardrockhotels.net PATTAYA MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA: 218/2-4 Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 412 120, www.marriottotels.com

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL CHIANG MAI: Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road 50180 Tel: 053 298 181

DEEVANA PATONG RESORT & SPA: 43/2 Rai-u-Thid 200 Pee Rd Tel: 076 341 414/5, www.deevanaphuket.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL CHIANG MAI: 51/4 Chiang Mai, Sankampaeng Road Moo 1 T. Tasala A. Muang Tel: 053 888 888

DUSIT THANI LAGUNA: 390 Moo 1, Srisoontorn Rd Tel: 076 362 999, dusitthanilagunaphuket. dusit.com

RACHAMANKHA: 6 Rachamankha 9, T Phra Singh Tel: 053 904 111, 053 814 521, www. rachamankha

JW MARRIOTT PHUKET RESORT & SPA: 231 Moo 3, Mai Khao Tel: 076 338 000 ext 35252, www.marriott. com

RATILANNA RIVERSIDE SPA RESORT: 33 Chang Klan Rd Tel: 053 999 333, www.ratilnnachiangmai. com

JW MARRIOTT KHAO LAK RESORT & SPA: 41/12 Moo 3, Khuk Khak Tel: 076 584 888, www.marriott.com

HUA HIN CAPE NIDHRA HOTEL: 97/2 Petchkasem Rd Tel: 032 516 600, www.capenidhra.com SHERATON HUA HIN RESORT & SPA: 1573 Petchkasem Rd, Cha-Am, Petchaburi Tel: 032 708 000, www.starwoodhotels.com/ sheraton/huahin DUSIT THANI: 1349 Petchkasem Rd Tel: 032 520 009, www.dusit.com KOH SAMUI AMARI PALM REEF RESORT: Chaweng beach road Tel: 077 422 015/19, www.amari.com CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT: 38/2 Moo 3, Bophut, Chaweng beach Tel: 077 230 500, www.centralhotelsresorts. com FOUR SEASONS KOH SAMUI: 219 Moo 5, Angthong Tel: 077 243 000 SANTIBURI RESORT: 12/12 Moo 1, Maennam Tel: 077 425 031/5, www.santiburi.com THE LIBRARY 14/1 Moo 2 Chaweng Beach, Bo Phut Tel: 077 422 767-8

ROYAL CLIFF HOTEL: 353 Phra Tamnak Rd, Pattaya Tel: 038 250 421, www.royalcliff. com

TONGSAI BAY COTTAGES & HOTEL: 84 Moo 5, Bophut Tel: 077 245 480, www.tongsaibay.co.th

SHERATON PATTAYA RESORT: 37 Phra Tamnak Rd Tel: 038 259 888, www.sheraton.com/ pattaya/com

PHUKET

ZIGN, THE: 555/65 Moo 5, 12 Naklua Rd Tel: 038 909 800/20, www.thezignhotel.com CHIANG MAI CHEDI CHIANG MAI, THE: 123-123/1 Charoen Prathet Rd Tel: 053 253 333, www.ghm.hotels.com

AMANPURI PHUKET: 118 Moo 3 Srissunthorn, Phuket Tel: 076 324 333 AMARI CORAL BEACH: 2 Meun Ngern Rd Tel: 076 340 106/14, www.amari.com ANGSANA LAGUNA: 10 moo 4 Srisoonthorn Rd Tel: 076 324 101, www.lagunaphuket.com

KANTARY BEACH HOTEL VILLAS AND SUITES: 64, 65 Moo2, Kukkak Tel: 076 584 700, www.kantarycollection.com MÉRIDIEN PHUKET BEACH, LE: 29 Soi Karon Nui Tel: 076 370 100, www.lemeridien.com MÉRIDIEN KHAO LAK BEACH & SPA RESORT, LE: 9/9 Moo 1 Tambol Kuk Kak Tel: 076 427 500, www.starwoodhotels.com/ lemeridien KANTARY BAY HOTEL, THE: 31/11 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd Tel: 076 391 514, www.kantarybay-phuket. com THE NAKA ISLAND: 32 Moo 5, Tambol Paklok, Amphur Thalang, Naka Yai Island Tel: 076 371 400 WESTIN HOTELS AND RESORTS: 21/4 Moo 1 T. Rasada A. Muang Tel: 076 335 600 KRABI AMARI VOGUE RESORT: 149 Moo 3 Tambol Nongtalay Tel: 075 607 777, www.amari.com/vogue CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT & VILLAS: 420/22 Moo 2 Aonang Ao Nang Tel: 075 661 027, www.centralhoetlresorts. com SHERATON KRABI: 155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Muang Tel: 075 628 000 SOFITEL KRABI PHOKEETHRA GOLF & SPA RESORT: Klong Muang beach, Tel: 075 627 800, www.sofitel.com/6184 KOH CHANG AMARI EMERALD COVE RESORT KOH CHANG: 88/8 Moo 4 T Tel: 039 552 000, www.amari.com/ emeraldcove

FEBRUARY 2014 | 73

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DIRECTORY RESTAURANTS

AMERICANA Bourbon St. Restaurant Oyster Bar (●9/39-40, Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekkamai, 02 381 6801/3, www.bourbonstbkk.com, 7 a.m. to 1 a.m.)

Specializes in Louisiana Cajun and Creole dishes and other New Orleans favorites.

Henry J. Bean’s (●Amari Watergate Hotel, 847 Petchburi Rd, 02 653 9000, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.) Tex-Mex food, beer, and fun in allAmerican style, complemented by drinks from a professional mixologist.

CAFES Duc de Praslin (●16 Soi Prasertsit, Sukhumvit 49-14, 02 712 6937, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.) Enjoy coffee along with pralines, truffles, macaroons, and other delectable treats made with Belgian chocolate, in a quiet and cozy atmosphere.

Kuppa (●39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02 663 0450/1, 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.) Stylish, modern industrial design with a relaxed and hip vibe.

CHINESE China House (●Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Soi Oriental, Bangrak, 02 659 9000, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.)

It has represented the pinnacle of Cantonese fine dining in Thailand since 1990.

Heichinrou (●Amari Watergate Hotel, 847 Petchburi Rd, 02 653 9000, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.) Cantonese specialty restaurant serving an eclectic selection of new favorites and traditional delicacies.

Liu (●Conrad, 87 Wireless Rd, 02 690 9999, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.) A gourmet Chinese restaurant offering authentic delicacies creatively presented for contemporary diners.

FRENCH Aubergine (●71/1 Saladaeng Soi 1/1, 02 234 2226, 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.) Great for a romantic evening, serves an eclectic menu based on French and Italian cuisines.

D’sens (●Dusit Thani Bangkok 946 Rama IV Rd, 02 200 9000, 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.) French haute cuisine with expansive views over Lumpini Park.

GERMAN Bei Otto (●1 Sukhumvit 20, 02 260 0869, www.beiotto.com, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.). Good traditional German food and beer.

INDIAN Indus (●Sukhumvit Soi 26 (Phrom Phong BTS), 02 258 4900, www.indusbangkok.com, lunch and dinner) A contemporary Kashmiriinspired restaurant, it has been selected as “Best Indian Restaurant” by multiple publications.

Maya (●29th Floor, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, 1 Sukhumvit 22, 02 683 4777) Maya Authentic Indian and Bar is a stylish Indian restaurant that serves authentic

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Indian cuisine from the northern region. The adjacent bar offers sky-high entertainment until 1 a.m.

ITALIAN Antonio’s (●26 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Phrom Phong BTS), 02 662 1001) Antonio’s The Italian Experience is situated in a pleasant little house that gives an intimate but classy feel. Classy decor, well-trained staff, and good food.

Bella Napoli Pizzeria (●3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02 259 0405, 08 5347 2777) Traditional Italian pizzeria that also offers pasta, spaghetti, meat dishes, and homemade desserts.

Biscotti (●Lobby Level, Four Seasons Bangkok, Rajdamri Road (Rajdamri BTS), 02 126 8866) The first restaurant to have an open kitchen in Bangkok, Biscotti offers simple, home-style Italian food of great quality for lunch and dinner.

Enoteca Italiana (●39 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02 258 4386) Quiet and romantic, it boasts attentive, professional service, good food, and an impressive wine list.

quality food and service.

Kongju (●2nd floor, Pathumwan Princess Hotel, MBK Center 444 Phayathai Rd, 02 216 3700, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.) Very popular with families.

Dishes are prepared authentically, in hearty servings.

MEDITERRANEAN Eat Me (●Convent Road (in Soi Pipat 2), Silom (Saladaeng BTS), 02 238 0931) A laidback restaurant with flair on the menu.

Doubling as an art gallery and maintaining late opening hours that appeal to the party crowd, the 60-seater restaurant has long been known for its mellow vibe, jovial staff and Aussie-style café food.”

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (●37th Floor, 188 Silom Rod, Bangrak, 02 238 1991) A meeting point for young executives, Scarlett boasts a fine selection of wines along with tapas, imported cold meats, and a large variety of cheeses. The menu is inspired by French chef Manuel Martinez, who has two Michelin stars and is the owner of Relais Louis XIII in Paris.

Giusto (●16 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 02 258 4321) Italian restaurant and bar with clean, modern interior, elegant food, an art-house cigar lounge and chef-owners who are larger than life.

Sirocco (●63rd Floor, lebua at State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd (Saphan Thaksin BTS), 02 624 9555 6 p.m. to 1 a.m., www.thedomebkk.com) A popular restaurant in Bangkok. Great menu and equally great views of Bangkok and Chao Phraya River.

JAPANESE AOI (●4/F, Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd. (Phrom Pong BTS), 02 664 8590/2, www.aoibkk.com) A typical Japanese restaurant, Aoi offers everything from udon, sushi and teppan to its popular set menu.

Vertigo (●61st floor, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd, 02 679 1200, 5 p.m. to midnight, www.banyantree.com) For a romantic tête-à-tête, glamorous cocktail party, or fashion launch, there is no better venue than this.

Shintaro (●Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Rajadamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS), 02 126 8866, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.) Get the finest quality slabs of sashimi, artfully hand-rolled sushi, succulent foie gras rolls, or tasty soba noodles here.

Tensui (●33 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02 663 2281) Fish for sushi and sashimi freshly imported from the markets of Japan; everything served is less than 48 hours old.

Yamazato (●The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS), 02 687 9000) Famous throughout the world for its consistent quality, some of the highlights of this Japanese restaurant include two teppanyaki tables and a sushi bar stocked with the seafood flown in from Tsukiji, Japan.

SEAFOOD Seafood Market (●89 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02 261 2071, 11:30 a.m. to midnight) One of the oldest seafood restaurants in the city, popular with tourists.

SPANISH Rioja (● Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS), 02 251 5761/2, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.) Known for imported fresh ingredients from Spain. Specializing in northern Spanish cuisine.

Tapas Café (●1/25 Sukhumvit 11, 02 651 947, 11 a.m. to midnight, www. tapasiarestaurants.com) Not a Spanish “theme bar” but an innovative tapas bar serving both traditional and modern tapas dishes.

Zuma (●159/99 Rajdamri Rd, beside St. Regis Hotel Bangkok (Rajdamri BTS), 02 252 4707) Contemporary Japanese cuisine. Fresh ingredients in their traditional and fusion Japanese food are always a draw for lunch and dinner.

STEAKHOUSES Artur’s: (●9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd, 02 658 6288., Daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.) From the man behind many of Bangkok’s finest steakhouses comes his most personal project; great martinis and steaks at lower-than-average prices.

KOREAN Arirang (●Sukhumvit Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02 653 0111) The restaurant always offers

Madison (●G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Rajdamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS), 02 250 1000) Bangkok’s best charcoal grilled steaks in this

high-end steakhouse, with the quality and creativity expected from the Four Seasons.

gourmets and for those who desire to learn more about authentic Thai cuisine.

New York Steakhouse (●4 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 2, 02 656 7700) New York–caliber steakhouse, with the food, service, and refinement expected from its namesake city | JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok.

BARS Apoteka (●33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS), 083 720 5586) There are two Apotekas in Bangkok. The first is a unique, fivechambered bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11 that was designed in to evoke the essence of an Old World apothecary shop from the turn of the 19th century. A newer branch has opened in Thonglor.

Prime (●Millennium Hilton Bangkok Hotel 123 Charoennakorn Rd, 02 442 2000, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.) Watch your steak caramelize in the wood-fired oven or take in the fantastic Chao Praya River view as the sun goes down.

TEA ROOMS Erawan Tea Room (●494 Ploenchit Rd (Chitdom BTS), 02 250 7777) Serves traditional Thai cuisine complemented by refreshing beverages in a beautifully appointed semi-casual setting.

THAI Baan Khanitha & Gallery (●36/1 Sukhumvit 23, 02 258 4128, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11 p.m., www.baankanitha. com) Winner of more than 10 “Bangkok’s Best Thai Restaurant,” awards, this tearoom serves high-quality authentic Thai food in a traditional atmosphere.

Blue Elephant (●233 South Sathorn Rd (Surasak BTS), 02 673 9353, 6:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., www.blueelephant.com) Another great Thai restaurant whose menu includes classics and innovations for the future.

Old World ambience enhances the dining pleasure.

Bo.Lan (●42 Soi Pichai Ronnarong Songkram Sukhumvit 26 (Phrom Phong BTS), 02 260 2962) By drawing on the abundance of natural resources and incorporating the geographical diversity that Thailand offers, the restaurant actively strives to serve Thai food at its very best, taking full advantage of the fresh and seasonal produce available.

Clouds (●251/1 Seenspace Center, Sukhumvit 55 Rd (Thonglor BTS), 02 185 2365) Clouds is praised by many for its shisha and great cocktail menu.

Speakeasy (●Hotel Muse, 55/565 Soi Langsuan (Chitlom BTS), 02 630 4000) The atmosphere merges an internationally inspired food-and-drink concept with Asian influences.

The St. Regis Bar (●St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Rajadamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS), 02 207 7777) Linger over classic cocktails as you enjoy live music with a backdrop of the setting sun, or savor an intimate midnight supper in The St. Regis Bar, located on the hotel’s 12th floor.

CLUBS Concept Cm2 (●Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 (Siam Square BTS), 02 209 8888, 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.) Longrunning favorite in the Siam Square area, and dubbed by many as a top nightspot.

KU DÉ TA (●39th & 40th floors, Sathorn Square building, 98 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, 02 108 2005, www.kudeta. com) Spread over the 39th and 40th floors, the KU DÉ TA concept includes the Club Lounge, Ku Bar, Soundgarden & Amber Bar, and Aviary, while the Grill Bar and Member’s Club will open in early 2014.

Cabbages And Condoms (●6 Soi 12, Sukhumvit Rd, 02 229 4611, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., www.cabbagesandcondoms.co.th) Established in part to support the activities of PDA with several locations around Thailand, this restaurant offers a pleasant dining experience.

Levels (●6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS), 082 308 3246) Peripherally attached to Aloft Hotel, this high-end club is accessible by a separate set of elevators that lead to the sixth floor and an enormous, high-ceilinged room whose centerpiece is a circular, glowing bar with a jazzy LED chandelier overhead.

Celadon (●The Sukhothai Hotel, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd, 02 344 8888, www.sukhothai. com) A bit pricey, but the menu offers great selection that is inventive without being ridiculous.

MIXX (●973 President Tower, Room B06-B10 in the basement of the Intercontinental Hotel (Chitlom BTS), 10 p.m. till late) Discotheque Bangkok All night dance lounge featuring house and hip hop rooms.

Long Table (●48 Column Tower, Sukhumvit 16 (Asok BTS), 02 302 2557) This restaurant is famous for both its food and for its stunning 25th-floor view and trend-setting interior featuring a 25-meter-long table and contemporary video art.

Q Bar (●Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS), 02 252 3274, daily from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m., www.qbarbangkok.com) Once notorious for crowds, but has started to turn around its image and continues to bring in top-flight DJs and after-parties.

Nahm (●Metropolitan by COMO Hotel, 27 Sathorn Rd, 02 625 3388) Awarded the prestigious “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” (Top 32) and “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” (Top 3), Nahm is a place both for serious

Spasso (●Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajdamri Rd (Chitlom BTS), 02 254 1234, 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.) An Italian restaurant by day; nightclub with live band at night. A favorite of older expats, tourists, and others who like a

more mature night out.

Tapas (●114/17-18 Silom Soi 4 (Saladaeng BTS), 02 632 7883, 8 p.m. to 1 a.m., www. tapasroom.net) One of Bangkok’s oldest clubs, it has lasted for a reason. Multi-story club with different DJs playing on each floor; be sure to check out the rooftop area.

LIVE JAZZ Bamboo Bar (●Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave, 02 659 9000, Mon-Fri 11 p.m. to 1 a.m., Sat-Sun, 11 p.m. to 2 a.m., www. dininginthailand.com) Home to some of the more refined jazz music in Bangkok.

Fat Gutz (●264 Thonglor Soi 12 Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor BTS), 02 714 9832, live music 9 p.m. to midnight, www.fatgutz. com) Innovative cocktails, chic decor, and surprisingly good fish and chips | Iron Fairies (●394 Thonglor Rd Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor BTS), 084 425 8080, www. theironfairies.com) Antique factory with live metal-crafting, a wine bar and a restaurant.

LOUNGES Above Eleven (●33/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit 38/3, Soi 11(Nana BTS), 02 207 9300) Great place to start a night of carousing and partying on Sukhumvit 11. Enjoyable eating experience and cool atmosphere.

Nest (●33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS), 02 654 6935, www.thenestbangkok.com) Wonderful little rooftop bar on the top of the @ Le Fenix Hotel. Situated in the midst of Suk 11, yet feels intimate and relaxed.

Three Sixty (●123 Charoennakorn Rd Klongsan (Free shuttle from Saphan Taksin BTS), 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily)One of the more stunning views Bangkok has to offer high up on the 32nd floor of the Millennium Hilton Hotel with panoramic views of the Chao Praya River.

Whisgars: (●16 Sukhumvit 23, Bangkok (Sukhumvit MRT), 02 664 4252) This whisky and cigar presents a large collection of singlecask whiskies in Asia, along with premium hand-rolled cigars of exceptional quality, all amidst refreshingly modern surroundings.

PUBS Londoner Brew Pub, The (●591 UBC II Bldg, Basement B 104, Sukhumvit 33 (Phrom Phong BTS), 02 261 0238/9, www. the-londoner.com) Two different pub-brewed beers, a pilsner and cream bitter, and satellite feed from around the world keep sports enthusiasts happy. Buy 1, get 1 free promo on drinks all night every Wednesday.

WINE BARS Decanter (●St. Regis, 12th floor, 159 Rajadamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS), 02 207 7829) Features a selection of vintage wines in a gentlemen’s club ambience with an oriental influence. Offers an extensive cellar that represents the world’s most celebrated vineyards, with two private rooms for exclusive tastings or wine dinners.

FEBRUARY 2014 | 75

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