Lookeast January 2015 by Lookeast Magazine

JANUARY ISSN 0857-1139

The Anniversary issue

JANUARY 2015 VOL.44 NO.1

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WHAT'S INSIDE JANUARY

JANUARY 2015 10 Reader’s Talk 80 Subscriptions

CALENDAR 12 26 54 74 76 78

What’s On Hotel Deals Spa Deals Dining Specials Bar Specials Hotel Directory

TRAVEL

18 Culture: Flower Festivals 20 Features: Ancient Cities 24 Things to Do: Chiang Mai 28 Travel News 31 My Favorite Place

LIFESTYLE

32 Anniversary Issue: ● A Look Back into How Thailand Was in the Days When Lookeast was Founded ● The Story of Lookeast 41 The Hedonist Personalities: 42 Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul, Minister for Tourism and Sports 44 David Ecija, GM at Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok and DoubleTree by Hilton 46 Nattaporn Runghajornkin, Megabangna’s Vice President of Marketing 48 Neighborhoods: Thonglor 52 Sports: Polo 55 Wellness: Shiv Yog Comes to Bangkok 2

LOOKEAST | WHAT'S INSIDE

71 WINE&DINE

Features: 56 A Look Back Into Bangkok’s Food and Drinks’ Scene 68 Thailand’s Best Street Food Restaurants: 60 J’Aime 62 Kai 62 Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen 64 Bangkok’s Food Trucks 71 Emack & Bolio’s 71 A.R. Sutton Engineers Siam The Fifth Taste: 72 Game Over Lounge and NERD 73 Rocket S. 49 77 World of Wine: Grape Varieties

JUly 2014 | 7

TRAVEL

EDITORIAL EDITOR'S NOTE

For Auld Lang Syne

There’s also something that I have to confess: this month I have mixed feelings writing this editor’s note … because it’s my last one. While I’m leaving Lookeast in the capable hands of Percy Roxas—former Editor-in-Chief of the publication for nine years—, I’m both sad about leaving a job that I love doing, and also happy because I’ll soon embark on a gastronomic journey traveling westwards around the world, before returning to Asia in a few months. But, hey, don’t forget that time flies. And as quickly as 44 years took Lookeast from an idea into what you hold in your hands right now, I know I won’t even notice it when I’m back again and taking the BTS, eating street food on Sukhumvit soi 38, visiting the new restaurants that have opened here and there, and enjoying the beaches and riches in my beloved Thailand. I would hereby like to thank the hardworking team that is behind this dreamcome-true every month and, especially, to our publisher Sid Sehgal, as working with him has been one of the most gratifying experiences I’ve encountered in the corporate world. I hope you enjoy this anniversary issue, and I wish you all the best for the New Year! May moments become memories, and may memories become infinite. This is for old times’ sake, and for those yet to come. All the best,

Photo by Alisa Hubert Apparel by Burberry

EST. 1971

ow, time flies. I still remember our team celebrating the 2013–2014 New Year. I didn’t even realize how quickly last year passed and, with it, 12 issues of Lookeast through which we took you, our wonderful readers, around Thailand and throughout Asia every month. But 2015 starts on a high note for us because, with a revamped layout, Lookeast celebrates its 44th anniversary, ensuring we remain Thailand’s longest-running lifestyle magazine in English! In fact, you might be wondering about this month’s front cover … as we were getting our hands dusty digging up old copies of Lookeast we found this one, the first magazine we ever published back in January 1971. Funky, huh? To honor the path we have walked in the last four decades, in this issue we take a look into how the country used to be back in the days when Lookeast was founded, as well as a look back into how the food and drinks’ scene has evolved since then. We will walk you around the trendy Thonglor neighborhood and in between historical temples in the kingdom’s most prominent ancient cities. And while the Wine & Dine section this month is again full of delicious new discoveries—ranging from street food to restaurants opened by Michelinstarred chefs—, in the World of Wine our expert will teach you more about the most common wine grape varieties.

Anita Zaror Editor-in-Chief

FRONT COVER

The front cover of Lookeast's first issue, published in January 1971.

LOOKEAST | EDITORIAL

is published monthly by: Advertising & Media Consultants Co., Ltd. Richmond Office Building 18th floor 75/65 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Tel: + 66 2 204 2982 Fax: + 66 2 204 2984 Email: info@lookeastmagazine.com Web: www.lookeastmagazine.com Views and opinions expressed by individual writers and contributors in the articles herein, do not necessarily reflect those of Lookeast magazine or of Advertising Media Consultants Co., Ltd. All prices are correct at the time of going to press, but are subject to change. Reproduction in whole or part without written consent from Lookeast is strictly forbidden.

TRAVEL

EDITORIAL OUR TEAM

Sid Sehgal, Publisher Wakes up at 6 a.m. on the weekend to play polo

Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee, Art Director Likes to take photos of nature

Anita Zaror, Editor-in-Chief Thinks she may have the gourmand syndrome

Percy Roxas, Editor-at-Large Has a passion for pop music and sings very well

Acharin Suthisawad, Executive Assistant to Chairman Reads detective fiction novels

Panitkan Apiratanapimonchai, Executive Assistant to CEO Loves spicy Thai food

Chairman Dato Satish Sehgal President Ravi Sehgal Group Publishing Director Asha Narula Sehgal Executive Director Gaurav Sehgal

Ankita Malhotra, Marketing Executive Collects movie tickets

LOOKEAST | EDITORIAL

Apichart Boontid, Production Director Plays football every Thursday

PR Advisor Earth Saisawang Copyeditors Melanie Blake Katherine Walsh

TRAVEL

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS

Rachel Ross, Writer Tries new recipe ideas to create vegan dishes in her kitchen

Alexander Eeckhout, Writer Is always on the look for good deals on craft beers

Alisa Hubert Photographer Is a model and a great cook

Laurence Civil, Writer Drinks Earl Grey tea at breakfast and at 4 p.m. every day

Harold Stephens, Writer Has five thousand books in his libraries in Thailand and California

Ben McRae, Writer Is a chef and loves deejaying and traveling

Richard Mcleish, Writer Says he will try anything once

Federico Brandi, Writer Is a self-confessed win e, beer, and coffee addict

Chris Mayya, Writer Spent 12 years in a Bud dhist monastery in California

Thomas Sturrock, Writer Is on a never-ending search for Bangkok’s best Negroni

Duncan Forgan, Writer Is stuck in 1960s/70s timewarp when it comes to music

Dave Stamboulis, Writer Still likes heavy metal

Contributed on this issue:

Jérôme Chambon Senior Trade Advisor for Food and Beverage at the French Trade Commission, Jérôme specializes in wine and spirits. His involvement in wine education takes many forms, including www.thaiwinelover.com

Ken Barrett Ken is the author of “22 Walks in Bangkok: Exploring the City’s Historic Back Lanes and Byways,” published by Tuttle Publishing and available at Asia Books and all leading international bookshops.

Tuptim Malakul Tuptim has done many interviews with high-profile diplomats, leading government and political figures, and well-known international personalities. She lectures at Mahidol University on TV script writing. JANUARY 2015 | 9

EDITORIAL READER’S TALK

WE HAVE TWO WINNERS!

Magdalene Teo-Yong

Engage in the conversation and you might also win fun prizes we give away every month! Send photos or stories from your travels through Thailand to editor@lookeastmagazine.com before the 15th of each month.

Magdalene Teo-Yong

Mantanakorn Kampangnil

This page, clockwise from top: Palio, Khao Yai; photo taken during road trip to Muak Lek, Saraburi; Wat Phra Phutthachai, Nakhon Nayok

First Prize

Mrs. Magdalene Teo-Yong from Singapore won a two-night stay in Deluxe Panorama room at Sukantara Cascade Resort (●www.sukantara.com) including breakfast for two people, worth THB 18,400!

LOOKEAST | READER’S TALK

Runner-Up

Khun Mantanakorn Kampangnil from Thailand won a voucher for two people for the Colonnade’s chocolate buffet for two people, at The Sukhothai Bangkok (●www.sukhothai.com)!

WHAT'S ON JANUARY

festivals & events

Tourism Authority of Thailand

Trekking Season at Phu Soi Dao

What: The trekking season at Phu Soi Dao National Park ends January 31. Phu Soi Dao National Park, covering areas both in Uttaradit and Phitsanulok provinces, is abundant with natural flora and fauna. With its highest peak situated at 2,102 meters above the sea level, the mountain is considered the fifth highest in Thailand, and offers many activities for nature lovers. When: Until January 31 Where: Phu Soi Dao National Park, Nampad district, Uttaradit How much: Free entrance More info: 054 521 118; tatphrae@tat. or.th

Udon Thani’s Red Lotus Sea

Jim Thompson Farm

What: For three months of the year, the “red lotus sea” in the Kum Pavapi district of Udon Thani covers the area with beautiful pink lotus flowers. Tourists will see red lotuses in full bloom at the fresh water swamp, which is also filled with a variety of fish, birds, wildlife, and aquatic plants. This red lotus sea is best witnessed during the cool season, which ends in February. When: Ongoing until February 28 Where: The Red Lotus Sea in Kum Pavapi District, Udon Thani How much: Free entrance More info: 042 325 406–7; tatudon@tat.or.th

Jim Thompson Farm Tour

What: Among the healing powers of the Holy siddhas, the most powerful one was considered to be one directed from the third eye, called the Shambhavi Shakti. Presently, the “Father of Indian Healing” Avdhoot Baba Shivanand ji has pioneered in this art, and is coming to Bangkok to give a hands-on healing training. When: January 15–19 Where: Grand Sukhumvit Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 6, Bangkok How much: TBC More info: 081 830 0547, 081 837 6179, 081 622 1997; www.shivyog.com; shivyoginbangkok@gmail.com

LOOKEAST | WHAT'S ON

Shiv Yog

Self-Healing Course

What: One of Isan’s most popular agro-tourism and eco-tourism attractions, this tour highlights the farm’s natural beauty and green activities as well as the opportunity to observe up-close the full life cycle of the silkworms and the silk-farming process, which is part of the Isan way of life. When: Until January 21 Where: Jim Thompson in Pak Thong Chai district, Nakhon Ratchasima How much: Contact the farm for fee More info: Jim Thompson Farm at 044 373 116; farm@ jimthompsonfarm.com

WHAT'S ON JANUARY

art & culture

trade fairs & shows Thailand Mega Show 2015

What: World Fair Co., Ltd. organizes Thailand Mega Show 2015, a lifestyle trade exhibition highlighting the best and the latest in furniture, home and décor, electronic, gardening, fashion and jewelry, wedding, health, beauty and spa, kids and toys, books, travel and leisure, and food. When: January 10–18, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Where: Hall 1–8, Impact Muang Thong Thani, Nonthaburi How much: Free entrance More info: 02 731 1331; www.worldfair.co.th

Thailand Furniture Show 2015

What: Thailand Furniture Show 2015 is another trade fair by World Fair Co., Ltd. that you'll enjoy. This one focuses on furniture and home decoration products but also on electrical appliances, as well as IT products and peripherals. When: January 10–18 Where: Hall 1–5, Impact Muang Thong Thani, Nonthaburi How much: Free entrance More info: 02 731 1331; www.worldfair.co.th

Pop-Up Gallery

What: An exhibition of the artworks of famous international sculptors, painters, and craftsmen living in Thailand. When: Daily until February 29, 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. Where: Oriental Arcade, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok How much: Free entrance More info: 02 659 9000

Days of Endless Meaninglessness

What: Sydney-based Thai mural artist Phaptawan Suwankudt presents her contemporary work in the last exhibition of the year: five sets of acrylic on canvas, inspired by selected photographs of Bangkok during the political turmoil of 2013 to 2014. When: Until January 4 Where: 100 Tonson Gallery, 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd (BTS Ploenchit), Bangkok How much: Free entrance More info: 02 684 1527

Memorandum

What: This exhibition brings together selected artworks by four artists: Chalarak Rueanchumchoei, Dusadee Huntrakul, Kentaro Hiroki, and Nipan Oranniwesna, all of which have previously been exhibited under different conditions.

Thai Crafts Fair 2015

What: The first Thai Craft Fair for this year unfolds. As usual, the event features Thai handmade products for your home and wardrobe, all manufactured with Fair Trade policy in support of the local artisans. When: January 24 Where: L floor, Jasmine City Building, Sukhumvit 23 entrace (BTS Asok) How much: Free entrance More info: nan@thaicraft.org

LOOKEAST | WHAT'S ON

When: Until January 17 Where: Bangkok University Gallery (BUG), 109, Rama 4 Rd., Bangkok How much: Free entrance More info: 02 350 3626

Mit Jai Inn

What: H Gallery inaugurates its new space G 1 Contempory at Gaysorn, in Bangkok, with an exhibition by Mit Jai Inn. Mit has emerged as one of Thailand’s leading artists with a practice that shifts from lushly painted surface. “Pastorale” is an ambitious showcase of specially created works. When: Until January 31 Where: G 1 Contempory, Ground Floor Gaysorn Sopping Center, 999 Ploenchit Rd (BTS Chidlom), Bangkok How much: Free entrance More info: 085 021 5508

Joyful Khaen, Joyful Dance

What: The Jim Thompson Art Center presents the soul of Isan during its latest exhibition, “Joyful Khaen, Joyful Dance,” which reveals the art of molam, the traditional Isan folk music and performance. When: Until March 31 Where: Jim Thompson Art Center, 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd (BTS National Stadium), Bangkok How much: Free entrance More info: 02 762 2562

Lotus Disco

What: For his new solo exhibition, Maitree Siriboon displays mosaic tile covered "disco balls" produced during a residency at Thaillywood arts studio in Chonburi. When: Until January 18 Where: Whitespace Gallery, Soi 3, Pathum Wan, Bangkok How much: Free entrance More info: 02 235 2500

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WHAT'S ON JANUARY

concerts & gigs

T’ai Chi Ch’uan Class

What: “T'ai Chi Ch'uan” is a traditional Chinese method of physical training, meditation, and self defense, where students memorize the first 108 martial art postures. The practice slowly increases breathing, circulation, and stamina through “meditation in movement.” SiFu Mark Hindelang, who has spent years learning this martial art from the direct descendant of master of the Wu family, leads the class. When: Ongoing, every Thursday How much: THB 400 for 60 minutes

Yin Yoga

What: The concept of Yin yoga has been around for thousands of years. Initially called “Daoist” yoga, it targets the deep connective tissues of the body (as opposed to the superficial tissues) and the fascia that covers the body; helping to regulate the flow of energy to sustain wellbeing. When: Every Tuesday from 10:30 a.m. till noon How much: THB 400

Body Psychology

Michael Buble in Bangkok

Avenged Sevenfold World Tour 2015 in Bangkok What: The first of a series of international band concerts happening in Bangkok in 2015, that promises to be an unforgettable year-opener. When: January 20 at 8:30 p.m. Where: Impact Arena, Impact Muang Thong Thani, Nonthaburi How much: THB 1,500/2,500/2,700 More info: 02 262 3838; www.thaiticketmajor.com

Made in Thailand Focus

What: Teacher Wanee uses intuition to detect psychological emotions, and feel the memories stored in the body parts. Her soft touch releases tension by stretching your muscles to the right position. When: Ongoing How much: THB 2,000 for 1 hour; THB 3,000 for 1.5 hours

What: An annual trade exhibition aimed to promote Thai-made products in the ASEAN consumer market. When: January 28–February 1 Where: Bangkok International Trade and Exhibition Center, Bangna-Trad Road How much: Free entrance More info: 02 507 7999; www.madeinthailandfair.com

Where: Omroom, 8th floor Alma Link Building, Chitlom, Bangkok (BTS Chitlom) More info: 02 655 6282; www.omroom.net

Gardens of Eden

LOOKEAST | WHAT'S ON

What: Singing superstar Michael Buble, known for big-selling hits such as “Home,” “Hold On,” and golden covers such as “Cry Me a River,” “Georgia,” and “Heartache Tonight,” among others, takes his Asia Tour 2015 to Bangkok. When: January 24, door opens at 7:30 p.m. Where: Impact Muang Thong Thani, Nonthaburi How much: THB 2,000/3,000/5,000/6,500 More info: 02 262 3838; www.thaiticketmajor.com

Zimerman Plays Brahms

What: A classical concert featuring Krystian Zimerman, who came to fame when he was awarded the first prize in the Chopin Competition at the age of 18. Sincethen he has enjoyed an international career, working with the world’s most prestigious orchestras and giving recitals in the top international concert halls. Charles Oliveieri-Munroe conducts. When: January 27 at 8 p.m. Where: Thailand Cultural Center, Main Hall How much: THB 4,000/3,200/2,400/1,6 00/1,000/800 More info: Thaiticketnajor.com

What: The first art exhibition by overseas artist Tjasa Iris is part of 137 Pillars House’s Signature Brand Initiatives to deliver authentic guest experiences. The exhibition depicts tropical gardens in southeast Asia, painted with acrylics on canvas. The selection of paintings will be changed regularly keeping the exhibition fresh and new throughout the duration. Iris is known for her large paintings and use of bright colors, depicting vivid gardens, lush vegetation, and bright light. When: On view until March 15 Where: 137 Pillars House, Chiang Mai How much: Free entrance More info: 053 247 788; stay@137pillarshouse.com

137 Pillars House

classes

TRAVEL CULTURE

FLOWER POWER Phu Ruea Winter Flowers Festival

Loei – Until January 3, 2015 In this event you will find many winter flowers displays, concerts, OTOP (One Tambon (meaning sub-district) One Product products for sale, and the Mae Kaning beauty contest. More info: TAT Loei office, 042 812 812

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

Lopburi Sunflower Blooming Festival

Lopburi – Until January 31, 2015 This festival is great for photography lovers, and perfect for bicycle rides in scenic sunflower fields. OTOP products are for sale, and tours are offered. More info: TAT Lopburi office, 036 422 768–9

Blossom Flowers at Mo Hin Khao

Chaiyaphum – Until January 1, 2015 This event features a mini-marathon, a mountain bike race, horseback riding to visit the rock park, a tree planting in honor of H.M. the King, drawing and photography activities, a concert, a New Year’s Eve party, and offering colored sticky rice to monks in the morning. More info: TAT Chaiyaphum office, 044 213 666, 044 213 030

The winter in Thailand is highlighted by beautiful flowers blossoming in different parts of the country. Check out these flower festivals if you happen to be around these towns!

Suphanburi – Until January 6, 2015 This is wonderful opportunity to see the beautiful gladiolus flowers and orchid fields, together with other flowers and ornamental plants, which are important for the country’s economy. At this festival visitors will also be able to see various plants, agricultural products, and an exhibition on plants. More info: TAT Suphanburi office, 035 536 030, 035 535 789

Chiang Rai ASEAN Flowers Fair

Chiang Rai – Until January 31, 2015 The fair, held at the Rim Kok Park (near Ban Fang Min government office), features a parade of flowers, the Tin Thai Ngam beauty contest, a winter flowers park, many species of orchids, a decorative plants contest, a gardening contest, an agricultural market, and agricultural academic exhibition. More info: TAT Chiang Rai office, 053 717 433, 053 744 674–5

Wawee Tea Tasting and Luscious Coffee of Doi Chang Festival

Chiang Rai – Until January 31,2015 If you attend the Chiang Rai ASEAN Flowers Fair, don’t miss the opportunity to visit this other festival, where you will be able to taste tea from Doi Wawee and fresh coffee from Doi Chang, as well as see tribal performances and the Doi people’s sports competition. More info: TAT Chiang Rai office, 053 717 433, 053 744 674–5

Below: A sunflower field in Thailand

Shutterstock + photofriday

Suphanburi Winter Flowers Festival

JANUARY 2015 | 19

TRAVEL FEATURE

THAILAND’S TOP HERITAGE SITES The best way to understand present Thailand is to take a look back at its past. Don’t miss visiting these ancient cities during your stay in the kingdom. by Dave Stamboulis

N This page, from top: Buddha head entwined in roots at Wat Phra Mahathat, Ayutthaya; stone stairs at Phanom Rung Opposite page: The Grande Hall of Wat Mahathat, Sukhothai Historical Park

o visit to Thailand would be complete without a trip out to some of the ancient cities. The top choices would be Sukhothai and Ayutthaya, Thailand’s first and second capitals, which were built in the 13th and 14th centuries, respectively, and have great historic and cultural value to the kingdom. Most of the great temples and stupas one sees today throughout Thailand attribute their heritage and style to these places and their periods in Thai history. Also of significance during this ancient time were the fantastic temples and landmarks of the Khmer Kingdom, which include the monuments at Phimai, Phanom Rung, and Pra Wihan. Here’s a look at all of these sites, along with Muang Boran, also known as Ancient Siam, where one can practically have a look at all these holy spots without ever leaving Bangkok!

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

JANUARY 2015 | 21

All photos by Raquel Morgado and Dave Stamboulis

TRAVEL FEATURE

This page, from top: Tourists riding elephants at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ayutthaya; Buddha figures in ancient city ruins, Ayutthaya; International Air Balloon Festival, Ayutthaya

Sukhothai

Sukhothai, which means “the dawn of happiness,” was Thailand’s first capital, founded in the latter part of the 13th century and by King Ramkamhaeng. While it lost its capital stardom to Ayutthaya less than 100 years after it was created, the city remains immortalized today with its Muang Kao “old city” awarded UNESCO World Heritage status, thus making Sukhothai one of Thailand’s premiere tourist attractions today. The World Heritage Sukhothai Historical Park is the big draw here, and one should plan on spending at least half a day in it. The Central Zone of the park is the most visited and considered the most impressive section, with its centerpiece being the towering Wat Mahathat, which was the center of the ancient kingdom and which is in phenomenal condition considering its age. Other highlights of this part include the Khmer Wat Si Sawai and Wat Phra Phai Luang, and the beautiful Wat Sa Si, which sits on an island surrounded by a reservoir. The nearby Northern Zone is also a must see and contains the often

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

photographed Wat Si Chum, home to a massive giant Buddha image that peeks out from between two walls.

Ayutthaya

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, or the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, was established in 1350 and served as Thailand’s capital for 400 years until it was destroyed by raiding Burmese armies. Today it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the Ayutthaya Historical Park comprises all the old ruins, which include gargantuan temples and stone towers, such as that of the majestic Wat Ratchaburana, which has a fully restored “prang” tower. Sunsets are particularly atmospheric, and it’s quite popular to take boat tours to access all the sites, as they sit off the town’s various canals. There is also a re-creation of a traditional floating market, and the Thailand Balloon Festival has taken place in Ayutthaya as well, with hot air balloons soaring over the temples, much as they do in Myanmar’s ancient Bagan.

Pra Wihan and Phanom Rung

The most remote, stunning, and special Khmer monument in Thailand is Pra Wihan in the northeast, which unfortunately has been at the center of political squabbles for the past several years between Thailand and Cambodia over its UNESCO Heritage status— and who controls the land and access on the border—and thus has been off limits to public visits (from the Thai side, however, one can get to the temple complex known as Preah Vihear in Khmer quite easily from the Cambodian side). A visit to this area is still worthwhile, however, as nearby Phanom Rung in Buriram is open to visitors and is spectacularly located on the summit of a 380-meter extinct

volcano. The ruins of Phanom Rung look out at the Dong Rak mountains of Cambodia, and house an ornate temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The temple and ruins complex are the largest in Thailand and visually stunning. Occurring each spring and fall, twice for sunrise and twice for sunset, the temple has a unique solar alignment during at which time the sun shines directly through all fifteen of the temple’s sanctuary doorways, which is considered a most auspicious time to visit the site. Also near to Phanom Rung is the 11th-century temple of Prasat Hin Mueang Tam, a completely restored monument that is built with five towers, symbolizing Mount Meru, the Hindu abode of the gods.

Phimai

Not too far from Phanom Rung in the city of Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima), is Prasat Hin Phimai, which predates Angkor Wat and possibly may have served as a model for its construction. Originally Phimai was an important Khmer administrative center and connected to Angkor by a road known as the Royal Way. Phimai has been painstakingly restored and is set in a beautiful green historical park, and the 28-meter temple is adorned with beautiful Hindu sandstone carvings.

Muang Boran

Muang Boran, which means “Ancient City” in Thai, is an immense outdoor museum spread over 100 hectares on grounds that are sculpted to resemble Thailand. Muang Boran, which lies just east of Bangkok, is also known as “Ancient Siam,” and it’s supposedly the world’s largest outdoor museum. Muang Boran boasts over 100 miniature replicas of famous Thai buildings and sites, all of them placed on the grounds in geographic preciseness to their real counterparts. The creator of Muang Boran— Lek Virayaphant, who also made the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya and the Erawan Museum—worked alongside experts from the National Museum to ensure that exact detail and accuracy were followed, and the result is astounding. Virayaphant believed that his creation might help make up for the decline of civilization (as he saw it, which resulted in the decay of all these ancient monuments), and he certainly has made good on preserving some of the past for future generations. For those who don’t have the chance to travel the country and see the real thing, this attraction is a must-visit, and even if you’ve already been to some of the temples, this is a great way to get some insight into Thai history and culture. All of the above temples and monuments of Ayutthaya, Sukhothai, Phanom Rung, Phimai, and Pra Wihan are on display here, plus many more.

This page from top: Khmer temples of Prasat Hin Phimai; Pavilion of the Enlightenment

JANUARY 2015 | 23

TRAVEL THINGS TO DO

9 MustAdds to Your Chiang Mai Trip Want to see more than the usual in Chiang Mai? Here are nine off-the-beatentrack attractions to add to your sightseeing program. by Percy Roxas

Top: Doi Inthanon Right: Ganesha Museum Bottom: Wieng Tha Kan

1. Doi Inthanon

From Chiang Mai city, take Highway No. 108 on Chiang Mai-Hod Road to Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest elevation at 2,599 meters above sea level, on Chomg Thong district. The “doi” enjoys a year-round cool climate and boasts attractions such as the Royal Air Force Radar Station and the King Inthawichayanon stupa. The road to the top is scenic, and the view is awesome. Visitors can also camp, walk trails, see the waterfalls, and enjoy other activities.

Percy Roxas

2. More in Chom Thong

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

On the way down, drop by Phra Mahathat Napha Methanidon and Phra Mahathat Naphadon Phumsiri on Km 41.5. Built to commemorate the fifth cycle birthdays of Their Majesties, King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit, the two pagodas enshrine the ashes of Lord Buddha, and some Buddha images overlook the exhilarating scenery of Doi Inthanon.

Also drop by Ban Rai Phai Ngam, famous for high-quality traditional cotton weaves; Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong on Km 58, a Burmesestyle chedi that houses a highly revered bronze Buddha; and Wat Phar That Doi Noi, a hilltop temple built by Queen Jamathevi in 658 AD.

3. Ganesha Museum and Sanpatong Temples

On Highway 108, in Doi Lo, is the Ganesha Museum on Km 35. Said to be the only such museum of its kind in Thailand, it was built by Banthom Teerakanont, one of Thailand’s leading devotees of the Indian god Ganesh. Nothing fancy here, but there are three rooms full of 1,000 Ganesh statues, paintings, gemstone pictures, and other Ganesh images made from metal, wood, and papier mâché. A visit here will give you a glimpse of how Thais show devotion to a Hindu god, which only reflects their basic religious tolerance.

4. Wieng Tha Kan

Wieng Tha Kan, an ancient walled city dating to the Haripunchai period is located on Km 34. Excavations here have unearthed Buddha images, earthen amulets, brown jars and bones, and Chinese porcelains from the Yuan Dynasty circa 1280–1368. The ancient ruins were not as grandiose as those in Ayutthaya or Sukhothai but they definitely add to the mystique of this charming little, but not so often visited, place.

5. Dok Mai Garden

antiques and woodcarvings—a major cultural attraction in Chiang Mai for many years. The shopping village is a cooperative endeavor of about 70 or so local families.

7. Supha Museum

Supha Museum on Km 14, houses a museum with, again, a great collection of Lanna arts. If you have not yet seen the range of arts and crafts that prove the rich cultural breadth of the Lanna kingdom, this is one of the places to go. Built in 1999 by a local named Supha Limsakdakul, the museum is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

9. Mountain Enclave of Mae Kampong

If you still have more time, visit Ban Mae Kampong—a typical Northern Thai village with unique culture, customs, and dialect—nestled in the heart of the lushly forested mountainous area of Chiang Mai. Mae Kampong has been a favorite backdrop for many Hollywood films, and there are nature trails, a viewpoint some 480 meters above sea level, and waterfalls. The village offers complete breakaway from the modern world. Homestays are available for overnight stays.

8. Baan Muang Goong Pottery Village

Baan Muang Goong Pottery Village, on Km 10, Hang Dong, is a major pottery center. Feast your eyes on highly prized items such as celadon, produced in many forms: jars, pots, and other decorative items. A few more stops in the other major thoroughfares of Han Dong, and you will enjoy houses of great architectural beauty, along with run-down factories, and chic manufacturing shops and display complexes, all in this district.

Percy Roxas

From Ganesha Museum, drive toward the main highway for Sanpatong, passing by idyllic rows of green fields and old Lanna houses. Interesting stops should include the sacred statue of Luang Po Pech at Wat Nong Pan Ngerm (Moo 13, Yu Wah sub-district), where scores of ancient Buddha images are located. Two other temples worth visiting: Wat Pa Charoen Tham, with its park-like temple grounds and a large reclining Buddha; and Wat Sri Nawarat, home to an 18th-century teakwood Buddha image that is also famous for its beautiful murals inspired by the King Rama V-era tale of Phra Suthon and Manorah.

Dok Mai Garden, the agricultural tourism destination in Nam Phrae District is a private tropical botanical garden developed by the Seehamongkol family in collaboration with Western scientists. The garden covers four hectares and has more than 1,000 plant species and a number of free-living butterflies, birds, reptiles, and fish. The place also hosts seminars, excursions, and conducts special courses related to gardening.

Also on the same route is Ban Roi An Phan Yang, an exhibition center for antiques and woodcarving masterpieces. Then, on Km 15, Chiang-Mai-Hod Road, there’s Baan Thawai—famous for imitation

Lorna BC

6. Ban Roi An Phan and Baan Thawai

This page, from top: Temple on the way up to Doi Inthanon; Borsang umbrellas JANUARY 2015 | 25

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

Asita Eco Resort

MICE Package

Touch of Asita

What: Escape the congestion of Bangkok and relax in an eco-friendly lifestyle resort at Asita Eco Resort, surrounded by a peaceful natural environment designed to preserve the simple, yet elegant rural Thai lifestyle. When: Ongoing Where: Asita Eco Resort, just 10 minutes from the Amphawa and the Damnoen Saduak floating markets, only 65 kilometers from Bangkok in Samut Songkhram How much: THB 2,500 for two with AFB More info: 089 866 2168, 089 866 3168; www.asitaresort.com

What: Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel is offering grand options for MICE planners to create group meetings that are truly rewarding. Simply confirm a group of 50 to 99 room nights with a meeting, and pick two rewards from a long list of tempting extras that best fit your needs. Booking for 100 or more rooms reap the benefits of three rewards. When: Valid on all new Group Meeting bookings from now until January 15, 2015. Where: Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel, Ploenchit Road (BTS Chitlom) How much: Varies More info: 02 125 5065; www.renaissancebangkok.com

Hot Deals in Samui

Holiday Season Freebie

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

The Peninsula Bangkok

Year of the Ram Package

What: A truly exhilarating Chinese New Year getaway package that includes three nights’ accommodation, complimentary daily breakfast at the River Cafe & Terrace, Chinese New Year Afternoon Tea for two at The Lobby, Chinese New Year set dinner for two at Mei Jiang restaurant, welcome amenities, round-trip transfer from the hotel to Chinatown, and more. When: Reservation before February 15 for stays between February 18 and 29 Where: The Peninsula Bangkok How much: THB 38,000++ More info: 02 861 2888; pbk@peninsula.com

X2 Resorts

What: Three Centara resorts are offering the “Life’s a Beach” package, applicable for two adults and up to two children sharing their parents’ room and bedding. This offer is available in Centara properties in Krabi, Khao Lak, and Phuket. Rates include roundtrip airport transfers, daily breakfast, free Wi-Fi, welcome cocktails for two adults, and a 60-minute aromatherapy massage for two. When: Ongoing until March 2015 Where: Centara Grand Beach Resort Samui, Chaweng; Centara Villas Samui; Centra Coconut Beach Resort Samui How much: Check the hotels for individual rates More info: 02 101 1234 ext. 1; www.centarahotelsresorts.com/package/life-is-a-beach.asp

What: X2 Resorts’ holiday season freebies has been extended. Stay in style at X2 Samui or X2 Kui Buri and, for every direct booking, guests will receive either a THB 500 cash rebate or a THB 500 credit to spend at the restaurant or spa. When: Ongoing until March 2015 Where: X2 Kui Buri is located in Pranburi, 3.5 hours south of Bangkok; X2 Samui is on Hua Thanon beach, Koh Samui How much: Deluxe Pool Villa at X2 Samui starts at THB 4,928++ per night; at X2 Kui Bui, THB 5,947++ per night More info: www.X2LOBBY.com

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Slip ‘N Fly

Oasis Spa

TRAVEL NEWS

Oasis Spa Voted “Asia’s Top Wellness Spa”

DKSH Thailand, exclusive franchisee and distributor of Levi’s in Thailand, recently launched the “Live in Levi’s Live on Stage” music challenge contest. Winning challengers of the first round performed with famous singers at the “Levi’s Pop-up Live House” concerts around Bangkok in November, with the six finalists joining the final “Live in Levi’s Live on Stage” concert. Peter Hornby, general manager of Consumer Goods Fashion Apparel, DKSH Thailand, said, “We are very proud to showcase Thailand’s future music stars with the ‘Live in Levi’s Live on Stage’ music challenge concert. The competition has connected us directly with many customers. The contest has exceeded expectations with about 300 entries, big concert crowds and lots of new talents on show.”

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

Koh Phangan is world-famous for its full moon parties. And now, a groundbreaking waterpark has opened to provide daytime entertainment, too: Slip ‘N Fly (●www. SlipNFlyParty.com). The waterpark boasts two 40-meter slides, the first of their kind in Thailand. To showcase its attractions, Slip ‘N Fly will hold more parties from February onward, and there will be five parties a month, with one family day for the little ones to get in some slide action for themselves.

Ao Nang Among TripAdvisor’s “10 Destinations on the Rise for 2015”

Ao Nang, one of the most popular tourist attractions in the southern Thai province of Krabi, was named among the “10 Destinations on the Rise in the World” by TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Awards. Ao Nang was ranked fourth after Da Nang (Vietnam), Sihanouville (Cambodia), and Limassol (Cyprus). In fifth to tenth place are: Bodrum City (Turkey), Naha (Japan), Hurghada (Egypt), Kazan (Russia), Manaus (Brazil), and Eilat (Israel). The award highlights 52 spots around the world that have seen the greatest increases in positive feedback and interest from the TripAdvisor community.

De Naga Hotel Chiang Mai Gets World-Class Food Safety Certificate

De Naga Hotel Chiang Mai has received a Certificate of World-Class Food Safety Standard Mass Catering award at “The 2nd Thailand Culinary World Challenge 2014” organized by the National Food Institute in Bangkok recently. This is the third award for De Naga in 2014. The hotel has also received the 2014 TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence Award and 2014 HolidayCheck Quality Selection Award.

De Naga Hotel Chiang Mai

Levi’s Hosts “Live in Levi’s Live on Stage” Concert

Koh Phangan’s First Waterpark Opens

TAT

Levi’s

Travel Asia magazine readers recently picked Oasis Spa (Thailand) as “Asia’s Top Wellness Spa.” Oasis Spa’s managing directors, Pakin Ployphicha and Toby Allen, received the award at a ceremony held recently at the Pathumwan Princess Hotel in Bangkok. The award praises Oasis Spa for its exceptional spa services for more than a decade. The spa now has 10 branches in Thailand, particularly in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pattaya, and Phuket.

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Books can be purchased online directly from the publisher.

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"I love all of Harold Stephens books"

— Han Suyin, Author of A Many-Splendoured Thing

“Autographed copies available at the Kisok, The Mandarin Oriental Hotel”

Government of India, Ministry of Tourism

TRAVEL NEWS

New Visa Rules to Benefit Thai Travelers to India

Top: Woman at the Thar desert, Rajasthan Bottom: Taj Mahal, Agra

ood news for Thai travelers intending to visit India: Thailand is one of the 43 countries whose citizens will no longer need visas to visit India. The announcement of the long-awaited easing of border controls was recently made in New Delhi. According to an announcement broadcast on NDTV, tourists from several countries, including Australia, Brazil, Germany, and Japan, can now apply online and receive the green light within four days before getting their visa at an airport on arrival in India. The new rules also apply to travelers from Cambodia, Singapore, and Thailand. Currently, travelers have to submit their applications at visa processing centers in their countries and usually have to wait several weeks before learning whether they will be allowed to enter India. In a statement, the Indian tourism minister Mahesh Sharma said, “This scheme is a dream come true for the entire tourism industry

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

of India, and is bound to positively impact the economy. The objective is to boost tourism, and implementation of this scheme will send out a clear message that India is serious about making travel to the country easy.” The minister also said the scheme would eventually be expanded from the list of 43 countries. Britain, India’s former colonial ruler, is not included on the new list. Under the old scheme, citizens of 12 countries were eligible for a visa on arrival. Under the new scheme, tourists will be able to pick up their visas from nine Indian airports— Bengaluru, Chennai, Kochi, Delhi, Goa, Hyderabad, Kolkata, Mumbai, and Thiruvananthapuram. They can apply twice a year for 30-day visas, which cannot be extended, and must also have return tickets. The new scheme is seen as an effort to increase India’s competitiveness as a travel destination. Out of 140 countries in a World Economic Forum ranking on travel and tourism competitiveness conducted in 2013, India placed 65th.

Despite its range of attractions, the country received about 6.58 million tourists in 2012, a fraction of the number that visit destinations like Thailand and Malaysia. But the tourism ministry statement emphasized that the facility is available to foreigners whose sole objective of visiting India is recreation, sightseeing, short duration medical treatments, and casual business visits, and not for other purposes.

TRAVEL MY FAVORITE PLACE

THE EXPAT

THE TOURIST

My favorite place: Chiang Mai Bring there: Comfortable shoes and sandals for all the walking you'll do. Must-do: Rent a motorbike and take a week to drive the majestic Mae Hong Son Loop. Don’t do: Loi Kroh Road or the Night Bazaar, which are huge, inauthentic tourist traps. Must-see: Sport Day festivities at Chiang Mai University—one of the most amazing and vibrant displays of ingenuity and creativity. Must-buy: A week-long Thai massage course at ITM. Learn how to give Thai massage while making lots of friends! What’s not to like? Eat at: Burmese Restaurant and Library for their out-of-this-world tamarind leaf salad. Drink at: Northgate Jazz Co-op, one of the best places for live jazz, hanging out, and a cold Singha beer. Sleep at: The Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, to literally feel like Thai royalty for a night.

My favorite place: Chiang Mai Bring there: Don't bring much. The city has a great shopping scene. Must-do: It was a dream of mine to wash an elephant. For me that is a must-do! Go to one of the many elephant camps and work there for a day or more. Don’t do: The night bazaar. Most of the stuff there is very generic touristy items. Instead, go to Sunday walking street market and buy gifts from there. Must-see: Go for the huge lantern release, Yi Peng. It’s one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. Must-buy: Handmade everything from Sunday walking market. Eat at: Dada Kafé, a great small place in the old town. Everything is good there! Drink at: When you miss the West. just go to Zoe in Yellow, a great place to have drinks with like-minded travelers. Sleep at: If you want to be away from the tourist area and stay in the hippest part of town, go for the Nimmanhaemin area. There are many boutique hotels and hostels there.

Henry Wu 37, United States) Freelance front-end developer at Pixel Alchemists

Zornitsa Shahanska (29, Bulgaria) Designer at The Cute Pixel, California, U.S.

From top: The night bazaar; Doi Suthep; elephant trekking

JANUARY 2015 | 31

LIFESTYLE ANNIVERSARY

Dusit Thani Bangkok

Right: Rama IV Road in the 1970s Opposite page: Dusit Thani Bangkok in the 1970s

All Our Yesterdays A look back into how Thailand was in the days when Lookeast was founded. by Ken Barrett

ather alarmingly for those of us who were around at the time, 1971 is beginning to sound rather like ancient history. That was the year President Richard Nixon lifted the U.S. trade embargo against China, and the year in which the Pentagon Papers, detailing America’s policies in the Vietnam conflict, were released. Thailand had very little international profile at that time, so the 1971 coup overturning the civilian government and replacing it with a military junta and martial law made little impact in the way of headlines. A distinguished visitor arrived during that year, when California Governor Ronald Reagan came

LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

to Bangkok as President Nixon’s representative. Nixon himself had been to Thailand two years previously, when Bangkok’s mayor, Chalit Kulkanthorn, had presented him with the keys to the city. Mass tourism had yet to happen in the Kingdom, with the bulk of the tourists being American military who used the country as an operational base and as an R&R destination. Some far-sighted people, however, knew that one day tourists would flock to the country in their droves. One of them, Thanpuying Chanut Piyaoui, built one of Thailand’s new generation of fivestar hotels and the Dusit Thani successfully opened in 1970. Standing on the site of an old mansion, it was

Bangkok’s second tallest building standing at just a handful of meters shorter than the Chokchai Building on Sukhumvit. However, there were concerns that its shadow would pass over the revered statue of King Rama VI that stands at the gate of Lumpini Park. Despite its size, the hotel had been built in a time-honored way with ropes and pulleys, for Bangkok had no tower cranes in the 1970s. The construction workers lived in the basement while the building grew above them. In front of the Dusit Thani, the Sala Daeng intersection with Rama IV Road was busy with traffic, as there was no flyover. The Rama IV Road was a traffic nightmare for

JANUARY 2015 | 33

Dusit Thani Bangkok

LIFESTYLE ANNIVERSARY

Top: Cars in the 1970s Middle: An anniversary celebration at Dusit Thani Bangkok Bottom: Pond in Lumpini Park Opposite page: Siam Discovery a couple of centuries ago

LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

many years as the Thai-Belgian Friendship Bridge, which was originally built in Brussels as the King Leopold II Bridge, and then used as a temporary structure for the World Expo in 1958, was not shipped to Bangkok until the late 1980s. The trams had only stopped running along Silom Road a few years before in the early 1960s, and the klong had been filled in soon after. In Patpong, taxis and tuktuks cruised down the strip, as the now popular Patpong Night Market was still many years away. Patpong itself had only just emerged as a nightlife center. Conceived by Udom Patpongse as a business district for the Western companies that were piling into Bangkok after World War II, Patpong housed airline offices, shipping lines, news bureaux, the U.S. Information Service, and a few restaurants and bars. The first go-go bar, the Grand Prix, opened in 1969 in what had been a barber shop. The district was just dawning into its glory days, which continued through the 70s and 80s right up to the advent of the night market, which somewhat defused its potent exoticism. Further down Silom Road, the site of the Bangkok Bank, which was to become the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest structure in 1980, was occupied by a distinctive old mansion house, while another of the first wave of international hotels, the Hilton, stood on the corner of Surasak Road. This structure, now remodeled, is today a Holiday Inn. On the other corner of Silom Road that is now the site of a Robinson Department Store stood an old house that was used as a school, and diagonally opposite to the hotel was an enormous stretch of green lawn in front of the mansion housing the Queen Saovabha Institute and the Thai Red Cross. Behind here, as it does today, stretched the campus of Chulalongkorn University. Slightly to the northwest there had been another large expanse of greenery,

Archive

Right: Lookeast has been sold in bookstores since its early days

magazine very useful because in it we provided information on everything they needed while visiting Thailand— what to see, what to do, where to eat, and more,” says Dato Satish. “This was especially vital for first-time visitors to the country.” Current readers agree wholeheartedly. “Lookeast has always been considered a host and friend by its readers,” says Earth Saiswang, the Thai doyenne of PR in Thailand and a longtime friend of the magazine. “Travelers, expats, and those in local hospitality needed an honest guide. In fact, it is through Lookeast that I learned about and visited many locations in Thailand.” This is not surprising, considering how much attention has always been devoted to highlighting pertinent travel information, and to offering fascinating feature stories that capture the interest of tourists and locals alike. That this interest is sustained is explicit in the growth figures: from an initial print run of 3,000 copies, today’s monthly circulation is more than 20,000. Lookeast continues to

LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

be the leading magazine of its kind in Thailand. And in the past few years it has developed a strong online presence (www.lookeastmagazine. com) that now attracts an additional 10,000 to 15,000 hits a month—and continues to grow. After many years in their offices on Silom, since 2009 Lookeast’s new premises have been on the 18th floor of the Richmond Building on Sukhumvit. “Lookeast today looks much, much cooler,” says Knaokros Sakdanares, group corporate communications director for the Centara Hotels & Resorts’ Group and currently president of the Thailand Hotel PR Association, of the magazine. “I like the layout, look, and feel. And it’s even easier to find information. Young publisher Sid Sehgal is awesome and never stops, and the editors Anita Zaror and Percy Roxas are always very supportive.” Lookeast has long been a solid training ground for many of the big names in the Thai editorial and publishing industry today. Throughout the years, Lookeast has

kept its dynamic spirit and ability to change with the times. “We remain one of the leading travel magazines in the country today,” says Dato Satish. “Despite the stiff competition and the changing behavior of tech savvy readers, Lookeast continues to flourish. It is still widely read and accepted, judging by the many reader comments we receive. And we will endeavor to continue publishing the magazine for many, many more years to come.” As reader Toon Hiranyasap says of Lookeast, “The magazine never ceases to captivate me with its gorgeous photos and intriguing stories of life and times in the kingdom. Over the years, Lookeast has grown, not into an older, but into a seemingly younger, more energetic magazine, with useful, relevant, and entertaining articles in every issue.” As Lookeast celebrates a happy 44th anniversary, it is also a great occasion to look forward to new horizons for this trail blazing publication, now under the able leadership of Sid Sehgal.

ThaiWOA Flying

Club

I Believe I Can Fly

Anita Zaror

LIFESTYLE THE HEDONIST

Oh, how it feels to grab a plane by its control wheel and see the world through a bird’s-eye view!

’ve had a fascination with airplanes, airports, and everything wings-related since I was little, probably because they are all related to traveling. One time I took a gliding class over the rising thermal currents along the Chilean Andes Mountains; another time, a paragliding course to fly over the Pamukkale travertines in Turkey; and on several occasions I have had the chance to fly in small airplanes and helicopters, all experiences I have absolutely loved. But I recently flew a single-engine Piper Warrior II aircraft on my own in Thailand (well, with a lot of help) … and that was something else! The sound of the engine (that sound you secretly pray you won’t stop hearing because, if you did, it would mean you would have to glide down); the comforting voice of your copilot (a certified instructor) through the headset, which reminds you you’re not alone; passing a bird flying in the

LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

by Anita Zaror opposite direction and realizing that, when you look down, you see what it sees; being challenged by losing sight of the runway and learning that a pilot should always keep track of it … I can list countless thoughts, sensations, and views you will experience when taking a flying class. But nothing will truly give you an accurate idea of what it feels like to take a plane by its control wheel—you need to try it yourself to understand the ecstasy behind it. I joined this adventure on a sunny day with ThaiWOA Flying Club (●083 602 3557; www. wingsoverasia.com; www.facebook. com/thaiwoa; clubthaiwoa@gmail. com) at the Ocean Air Park in Samut Sakorn. ThaiWOA is not a flying school, but rather a private club where wings lovers pay a monthly membership of THB 1,500 to make use of the facilities. The one-hour pilot fun-flying course offered by

the club at THB 8,000 includes a 20-minute presentation about funflying and a 10-minute pre-flight introduction that will help you to understand the basics of the aircraft you will fly. The actual fun-flying class lasts 20 minutes, which doesn’t sound like a lot but, trust me, it’s more than enough considering the psychological and emotional effort required. A 10-minute after-flight briefing and insurance are also included. Don’t worry because it really feels safe at all times, but beware: after you’ve taken this course, you might be hooked forever. The good news is that for around THB 350,000 you can take a 60-hour course to get your own pilot’s license in Thailand (around the same price it would cost in the U.S.). In 1903 the Wright brothers dreamt of flying … and thanks to them, today people like you and me can fulfill this same dream as well.

From top: Piper and Cessna aircrafts at Ocean Air Park; your instructor will go through a cheklist before and after flying

LIFESTYLE PERSONALITIES

Unseen Thailand Plagued by political unrest, military coups, and a drop in tourism, the newlyappointed minister of Tourism and Sports has taken on the monumental task of ensuring safety, promoting new destinations, and revitalizing traditional Thai ways. Meet minister Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul.

Opposite page: The minister was described by her team as the “Iron Lady,” for the amount of energy she possesses.

ppointed Minister for Tourism and Sports in September 2014 by the newly formed cabinet of Prime Minister Prayuth Chan-ocha, Her Excellency Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul is well-known as a powerful woman through her success of managing the family’s business, Toshiba Thailand, as their CEO. With it, she brings a new look into Thai tourism and sports. Married to a high-ranking police major general, Choonasith Wattanavrangkul, Minister Kobkarn has two children and, since her appointment, her sister has taken the reigns of handling Toshiba Thailand. In her capacity as Minister of Tourism and Sports, it has been a challenging time to reverse the decline in tourism due to political turmoil; she explained her short- and long-term goals that span a range of plans in a newly defined roadmap. Before she tackled any of the prepared questions, she wanted to reiterate safety precautions now in effect for traveling in Thailand. Minister Kobkarn said, “Safety for tourists is the number one priority, and ‘Do and Don’t’ manuals are provided for tourists at Suvarnabhumi Airport.” Just as she took up her ministerial position, the key objective being in resurrecting the country’s tourism, the country was again shaken by the murder of two British tourists in Koh Tao. Perception and reality can be key opposites so the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) activated a reverse psychology media strategy and produced the YouTube “I Hate Thailand” video about a fictional British tourist who is angry after

LOOKEAST | LIFESTYLE

by Tuptim Malakul Lane losing his bag on a beach in Thailand, but ends up getting everything back. This video drew more than one million views within days of being posted. Still on safety measures, as 2015 approaches, the ministry will be issuing to beach resorts new lifejackets that propel the body to float face-up. “This has gradually been supplied for use,” said the minister. Safety bracelets with tourists’ IDs have also been implemented. “When tourists check-in to a hotel, they will be given a wristband with a serial number that matches their ID and shows the contact details of the resort they are staying [at] in case they’re out partying late and, for example, get drunk or lost, they can be easily assisted,” she added. The start of 2015 plays an important year for Thailand as the country emerges into the AEC. Ready or not, many neighboring countries will join forces in promoting their respective countries. “For instance, Malaysia together with Thailand are promoting Two Kingdoms – One Destination,” said the minister. Finding new destinations within Thailand will help to lessen the image of sex and drugs and more on traditional Thai ways. The twelve unseen Thai destinations are what minister Kobkarn is talking about. Launching these in the first three months of the 2015, she sites “Nan” as an example to invite tourists to be a part of Thai traditions, touring Thailand in the Thai way. “It is about presenting our rich culture, the Thai lifestyle of going to the temple, of visiting caves and mountains, learning about old art and new modern art. The pace would

be slower; a bicycling town, Nan is accessible from Chiang Rai or Chiang Mai,” she explained. In the world sports arena, chairman of the Olympic Council of Asia, sheik Fahad Al-Sabah, who visited Thailand early in November 2014, held talks with minister Kobkarn regarding the push for Muay Thai to be represented in the Asian Games. Singapore has its F1 Grand Prix and Malaysia its Motorcycle Grand Prix; the suggestion of Bangkok having one is subject to various oppositions from the private sector. Addressing long-range plans to be completed before the February 2016 election, Minister Kobkarn has begun reform of the ministry using applied science to tourism and sports in a draft plan for 2020. This includes Sport for Excellence, Sport for All, Sport for Unity, and Sport for Tourism. Another aspect of her challenging portfolio is medical tourism. Whereas most tourists aim to stay out of the hospital while on holiday, there are a growing number of medical tourists, and Thailand has become an international medical travel destination for patients seeking world-class treatment at competitive rates. “We are the number one destination in medical tourism in Asia,” she said, “our hospitals are efficient and the Ministry of Health hopes to bring the price more affordable for all.” Her charming, classy determination, her honest approach, and her love of her country were more than evident—it would be hard to object to any of her reforms, plans, or even change of pace for the ministry.

JANUARY 2015 | 43

Ministry of Tourism and Sports, Thailand

LIFESTYLE PERSONALITIES

“BANGKOK HAS THE PERFECT BUZZ FOR ME” David Ecija, GM at Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok and DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel, tells us why he loves living in Asia while he shares what’s new and fun at both properties he manages. by Laurence Civil

avid Ecija, a Spanish national, started his hospitality career as a graduate management trainee with Intercontinental and had two management roles within the company in Spain before joining Hilton in 2000. He arrived in Bangkok in May 2014 as the general manager for both Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok and DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel. “For the past eight years I was hungry to work in Asia,” says Ecija. “Travelling through Asia, I was always transiting through Bangkok as it’s one of the two major hubs in Southeast Asia. I am a city guy, and Bangkok has the perfect buzz for me. And, as a hotelier, it’s a dream to work in a city where people are smiling and have the attitude to please – the core values of hospitality. “One of the benefits of working in the hospitality industry with a group such as Hilton is that we can do the same job anywhere in the world. They have consistent standards and procedures. As a manager I need to offer leadership and respect everyone who is working with me, irrespective of their job role as they all play a part in the overall guest satisfaction. “Asia is the future global economic leader,” he adds. “My son is only five years old but he is starting to learn Mandarin at his school in

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Bangkok. When I was his age in Spain I was looking to learn another European language. The world has changed in one generation.” Ecija takes care of two very different brands from the Hilton’s portfolio of 14, which are interconnected on a common site that stretches from Sukhumvit Soi 24 to Soi 26. Essentially, Hilton targets the business traveller while DoubleTree by Hilton offers a more relaxed experience for the leisure market and families, and is most definitely “kid-friendly.” No matter which of the two locations a guest chooses, they can charge services in either hotel to their room. “Every month we have a food promotion reflecting different cuisines from around the world,” he says. “It’s purely coincidental that our executive chef Lluis Cantons and I are both Spanish, and in January we are promoting Spanish cuisine in Dee Lite, at DoubleTree during which visitors can buy a glass of Spanish wine and the second will be with our compliments. On arrival we will serve brava potatoes, deep-fried wedges topped with a spicy sauce. Then, you can help yourself from the buffet to typically Spanish delights such as tortilla de patatas, Serrano ham carved on request and served with fresh tomato bread. Our musttry main course dish is almejas a la marinera, which is mussels with a

seafood fisherman’s sauce and paella mixta that consists of a Spanish rice mix of seafood and chicken.” He continued: ”There is nothing better than preparing you own burger just the way you want it,” he says. “This is why Dee Lite is offering a DIY burger promotion. There is a choice of four buns and six different patties: fish & chips, minced prawn, Indian vegetarian, the ‘classic’ beef, imported turkey, and chicken all served with eight different toppings. The value added benefits are a complimentary glass of Chang beer with every burger ordered, and a 15 percent discount off the total bill for parties of six people or more.” “Sunday Brunch is a phenomenal success in Bangkok – it’s almost an institution,” he says. “We wanted to offer our diners the flexibility of having brunch either on a Saturday or Sunday, so that they can optimize how they plan to use their precious weekend time. Throughout January, Scalini is offering a Saturday and Sunday a la carte brunch by Bollinger Champagne. The price per person is THB 2,200 with flexible add-on Champagne packages: by the glass (THB 850), by the bottle (THB 4,250) and, for those in the mood to celebrate you can enjoy freedom and total flexibility to suit your individual needs for THB 5,000 per person.”

Hilton Sukhumvit

JANUARY 2015 | 45

LIFESTYLE SHOPPING Interview with Megabangna’s VP of Marketing:

EYE ON EXPANSION

Why super-regional mall Megabangna is the ultimate family shopping destination in Bangkok. by Percy Roxas

hen Megabangna (●02 105 1000; www.mega-bangna. com) opened in 2012, it was billed as the largest low-rise shopping mall in Southeast Asia. Other malls in the region might refute that claim but Megabangna is certainly large; humongous in fact, even by Thai standards. With more than 800 shops and restaurants, parking spaces for 9,000 vehicles, 200 leading fashion boutiques and 100 international cafés and dining venues, 30 kids and baby stores, and a variety of entertainment offerings, it is certainly a “super regional mall,” as its vice president of marketing Nattaporn Runghajornkin describes it. And if Megabangna is a “super regional mall,” then Runghajornkin must be a “super guy.” Armed with a masters’ in commerce and economics from the University of New South Wales, Australia, among other credentials, he is not only the “face” of Megabangna but also the main catalyst for its rapid success. From the beginning, Megabangna’s concept was strong and clear. It is a destination for the

This page, from top: Megabangna's Money Zone; Megabangna's Thai Bazaar Right: Products on sale at the Thai Bazaar

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modern family. “We know who our market is. We have strong core values, and we’re very familyfriendly. That’s what differentiates us from others,” said Runghajornkin. “There is something for every member of the family here. Everyone can enjoy the various activities and events. Our shops and tenants fit all demographics … and the end result is happiness for all. That is why our current slogan is: “Megabangna: Your Space, Your Happiness.” With about three million people visiting per month and more at the weekends, Megabangna is obviously a solid success. “Our visitor numbers are increasing at an average of eight percent per year, and we are about to hit 35 million visitors this year. Indeed, we see a very good trend in growing visitor numbers,” he said. “Business growth for our tenants is also on the up, at about 20 percent year on year.” Now in its third year, the first low-rise regional shopping center in Southeast Asia is celebrating its success with an ever-increasing high standard of service. Megabangna has earmarked more than THB 10 million to open three new zones to meet the changing lifestyles of its customers to become the ultimate family destination. To quote Runghajornkin, it will be “a shopping center for all the family filled with shops, restaurants and services from leading brands, which is spacious and comfortable.” “Megabangna’s commitment and services continue to meet the changing needs and lifestyles of people coming to the center,” he explains. “According to a recent study, clients demand a shopping center with products, services, and facilities in one zone; they want all

a variety of styles to suit the different lifestyles of the center’s customers. This is known as the “Jewelry Zone”, which has an improved layout, allowing paying customers to shop more comfortably and conveniently. Each store offers decorative patterns according to the character of the products and it is worth noting that some clothing stores have moved to a new area called the “Fashion Galleria.” This is Megabangna’s main fashion zone, which is a convenient area to buy fashionable products. It offers a superior shopping experience, as well as all the full comforts that Megabangna always provides. The shopping center sector is going to grow, says Runghajornkin, and for places like Megabangna, the challenge is how to always remain on the top of the game. “And we’re ensuring we achieve just that,” he concludes. “As for myself – I love retail, I love brands, and I love dealing with customers so it’s very exciting. You can even say that here, I am living the dream!” Top: Megabangna's vice president of marketing, Khun Nattaporn Runghajornkin Bottom: All Jewelry

Megabangna

the services and facilities to be in one place. “In response to this, we’re giving customers newly designed and improved zones where the tenant selection and layout will meet their demands. We place high importance in making sure that customers are satisfied every time they come to Megabangna.” Runghajornkin went on to say that they expect to attract more customers with the new zones. The first zone to officially open is “Mega Money,” which has a sleek new look that has been very well received by all of the leading financial institutions, from banks and financing companies to loan and insurance firms. “In addition to rental space for new stores, this zone will also offer a range of stylish and innovative financing companies,” says Runghajornkin. “The Mega Money Zone offers a wide range of QSRs (Quick Service Restaurants) to suit different lifestyles in a grab-and-go style, with ready to serve food such as Sunrise, Subway, and Pizza Hut Express. The innovative financing services here boast a unique concept inspired by 5th Avenue in Manhattan, New York, and the products and services here are provided by financial institutions, insurance companies, banks, and currency exchange services, such as Thailand City Life Promise, Securities Asia Wealth, TISCO, and many others.” Zone II is called “Thai Bazaar”, which will be located in the newly opened entrance to the parking spaces in the basement, close to the main entrance near the information counter. Here, customers will find Thai souvenir products such as food, drink, clothing, jewelry, and decorations. Also in this zone are handmade bags, and porcelain and ceramic ornaments that have been made in Thailand. For foreigners, “The Tour” will be highly appealing. “Because of Megabangna’s location, which is just 20 minutes from the Suvarnabhumi International Airport, this zone will further support our expansion that involves targeting foreign visitors,” he adds. Another newly updated zone has

JANUARY 2015 | 47

LIFESTYLE NEIGHBORHOODS

GETTING TRENDY Some of the hippest places in town all have one thing in common: they are in Thong Lor. by Dave Stamboulis

hen it comes to food and drink, no guide to Bangkok is complete without extensive mention of Thong Lor, which remains Bangkok’s trendiest and most innovative eating and drinking area. It is home to an exhaustive list of possibilities, from food trucks and traditional restaurants to the finest sashimi and the most intricate cocktail mixes. Here are a few of the leading places to get you started.

Right: The Water Library

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Soul Food Mahanakorn

(●02 714 7708; www.soulfoodmahanakorn.com)

Serves authentic regional Thai food, has a fine cocktail bar, and is located in a charming shophouse setting. It is part of Atlantic Monthly food critic Jarrett Wrisley’s award-winning healthy take on Thai street food that has become a Thong Lor staple over the past few years. From chicken wings to duck salads and Lycheegrass Collins on the innovative drink menu, this is a great spot to impress a date and tickle your taste buds.

Supanniga Eating Room (●02 714 7508;

www.supannigaeatingroom.com)

Restaurateur Thanaruek Laoraowirodge, who has several successful eateries here in Bangkok as well as a northeastern Isaan Thai restaurant in New York, has gone back to his roots here, offering up his grandmother’s hard-to-find recipes that come from Trat in Eastern Thailand. The quaint shophouse has become another Thong Lor trendsetter, with authentic dishes

All photos by Dave Stamboulis

like “moo chamuang,” a spicy and sour pork simmered in chamuang leaves dish that uses the most succulent stewed pork that has been cooked for several days to give it a mouthwatering flavor. A great place to experience real Thai cooking and find dishes you’ve probably never even heard of.

The Water Library

(●02 714 9292; www.waterlibrary.com)

While the Water Library does get accolades for its fine gourmet food restaurant, we came here to drink. Bartender Mirko Gardelliano has been mixing drinks for decades, winning titles such as Bartender of the Year in Germany several times, and is a master craftsman concocting wonders such as gummy bear infused tipples and Belgian chocolate mojitos that delight. With a 400-bottle wine cellar surrounded by plush leather sofas, it’s a pretty snazzy spot to relax in as well. Just make sure you bring a credit card.

Mugendai (●02 726 9222;

www.mugendaibkk.com)

While Thong Lor is the epicenter of the Japanese expat community with hundreds of restaurants to choose from, Mugendai sets the bar high as far as fine sushi and sashimi go. From the signature Aburi 7, which features fatty bluefin tuna, giant scallops,

snapper, halibut fin, salmon, Alaskan king crab, and Matsuzaka beef, to the unagi foie gras, in which wild freshwater eel is made in an insideout roll stuffed with foie gras. The fish here is flown in from Tokyo’s Tsukuji Fish Market several times a week, ensuring maximum freshness, and while the prices here are as high as the real estate, they are well worth the splurge.

Orn the Road (●095 628 0416;

www.fb.com/orntheroadbkk)

The Thai-Western couple behind this Thong Lor hamburger truck (located opposite Grass) ran a bar and grill for 28 years in Bangkok, and they know their burgers well. Orn’s (and yes, the name is inspired by Kerouac’s travel classic) grills over charcoal and features different grades of patties topped with signature dressings, and is one of several mobile food trucks to be taking the town by storm.

O’zake

(●02 712 7555)

Chavayos Rattakul, the foodie restaurateur who runs the outstanding Tenyuu Grand in Sathorn, not only serves up fresh sashimi at this stellar Nippon eatery, but sets himself apart from other Japanese restaurants in this neck of the woods by having a young hip vibe. It serves up some outstanding cocktails and other

drinks made from a range of Japanese liquors from sake to umeshu plum wine and various infused whiskeys. Try a Blushing Geisha (Gekkeikan Nigori sake and green tea) to wash down some blowtorched Matsuzaka beef wrapped around fresh sashimi and it might be enough to make you decide to purchase a condo around the block.

Iron Fairies & Fat Gutz

(●IF: 02 084 520 2301; www.theironfairies.com

●FG: 02 714 9832, www.facebook.com/fatgutzsaloon)

No mention of Thong Lor nightlife would be complete without paying homage to Ashley Sutton, an Australian nightlife designer and creator of Iron Fairies & Fat Gutz. His empire of avant-garde cutting edge bars has ensured he is now a legend in the industry, but it was here that the first few took hold. Iron Fairies features a Gothic Victorian fantasy appearance where a blacksmith’s forge meets a bar that meets a gallery. Fat Gutz is, as he put it, “a fish and chips saloon for sexy people.” There is a mariner’s saloon vibe here, and the food and drink menu lays tribute to sunken ships. At Iron Fairies, renowned mixologist Joseph Borowski’s creations blow your mind from the likes of blow-torched marshmallows and absinthe fairypotion cocktails.

Top left: Supanniga Top right: O’zake JANUARY 2015 | 49

LIFESTYLE NEIGHBORHOODS

Maevaree

Phuket Town

Octave

This simple open street shop is actually the ultimate seller of mangoes and sticky rice in the entire nation, something that might dawn on you when you see the price per kilo. Maevaree sells the most perfect mangoes to go with “khao niaow moon” sticky rice from Chiang Rai, along with ultra-high grade coconut milk. This wonderful dessert, along with their sticky rice and durian, ensures there is a constant line and cements it as a prime spot atop the Bangkok dessert elite.

PhuketTownRestaurant)

While sky bars used to be confined to Sathorn and the river area, the east side now has some of the best views in town. Not on soi 55 proper, but located one block over, this rooftop venue (45th floor) at the Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel offers views down Sukhumvit Road, the skytrain line, and an incredible 360 degree open air panorama, which could only be rivaled by a private helicopter flight. Enjoy a refreshing Bangkok 57 (champagne with saffron infused vodka) and remember that the buzz you feel up here won’t be simply from the drinks.

(●02 392 4804; www.maevaree.com)

This page, clocwise: Maevaree; Octave; Phuket Town

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(●02 714 9402; www.facebook.com/

You don’t have to go to Phuket to enjoy some pungent southern cooking. This atmospheric little eatery has great artwork and has set up the shop to look like a typical corner cafe that one would find down south. They do great plates of “kanom jeen” noodles and curry, plus other fiery southern stalwarts like “sataw” (string beans in chili paste) and “kua kling” chicken or beef saturated with spices. Make sure to bring a hanky, you will be sweating after a tasty spicy meal here.

(●02 797 0000)

Queen’s Cup St. Regis Pink Polo

LIFESTYLE SPORTS

GAME OF KINGS How did polo come all the way from Persia to Thailand? by Alexander Eeckhout

Top: HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana at the official opening ceremony of Queen’s Cup St. Regis Pink Polo 2014

rom Persia to India to Great Britain to Argentina to Thailand. Polo has definitely traveled a good deal of miles before conquering the world. The game of kings originated in Persia around 500 BC, and its popularity has been growing ever since. It went from Persia to India, where the English discovered it and spread it across the world. And, of course, when the game reached the Argentinian gauchos, they were eager to pick it up. Since then some the best players in the world have come from this Latin American country. The oldest polo club in the world is the Calcutta Polo Club in India—a British club in an Asian country. And as polo’s popularity grew, this international East-meets-

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West cocktail recipe was savored in Thailand as well. Polo was first played in Thailand by English sportsmen from Penang as a royal command performance before King Rama VII. When Franklin Hurst got permission to set up a racetrack and sports field in Bangkok (now known as the Royal Bangkok Sports Club), polo had found its first location in Thailand. When the Second World War came along, many expatriates—key to the game’s survival in Thailand—had to leave the country, and the sport’s popularity decreased. The game saw a resurgence during the 1990s and during the 13th Asian Games in Bangkok in 1998, when things really took off for polo in Thailand. Awareness was raised, and the game gained unprecedented

support when the Thai polo team won a gold medal during the threeday event, and a bronze medal in dressage. This was the work of many dedicated expatriates investing time and passion into developing the game and culture in Thailand, making Thailand the leading nation for polo in Southeast Asia. If you wonder what polo’s appeal is, apart from the unique and exciting feeling of competing for a ball while racing a horse at an incredible speed, Santiago Bachmann, Argentinian manager and vet of the Thai Polo & Equestrian Club, tells us that it’s about traveling to other countries to play other teams, about friendships, and creating bonds. Agustin Arestizabal, manager of Polo Escape, says that next to the thrill of riding

Polo Escape

staff includes vets, farriers and a number of Thai assistants. Renowned Australian course designer Wayne Copping was recruited in 2007 to create an international standard cross-country course suitable for the Southeast Asian Games. Copping called the course at the club one of the best cross-country courses in Asia. When an endurance course and an International Derby facility were added to the fields, the name was changed to Thai Polo & Equestrian Club. Another notable polo club in Thailand is Polo Escape (●www. poloescape.com). The club was established in 2007 by two sisters, Robin and Susy Lourvanij, both of whom were actively involved in the Thailand Polo Association. They have all the facilities needed, such as a fullsize polo field as well as practice fields and a fully equipped veterinary, and it’s the only facility in Thailand that has its own breeding program.

Queen’s Cup St. Regis Pink Polo

amazing horses, one has to be focused and willing to constantly improve his or her skills. Much like any other sport, polo is larger than the game played out on the field—it’s about people creating a community over a shared love of horses, sports, and simply enjoying each other’s company. The Thai Polo & Equestrian Club (●www.thai-polo-club.com) is one of Thailand’s most prominent polo clubs. Set among wooded hills, the club overlooks the Gulf of Thailand and boasts high-quality facilities attracting many local and international players. The Thai Polo Open hosted at the club, for example, attracts six to eight teams every year. The club opened in 2005 in Pattaya and is set over 250 hectares. It has three international-standard, fullsized fields, two practice grounds, stabling for over 250 horses, paddocks, and approximately 80 horses for the use of members. The

Queen’s Cup St. Regis Pink Polo As polo’s popularity is growing, a number of polo cups take place in Thailand. One of them is the Queen’s Cup St. Regis Pink Polo, organized by and taking place at the Thai Polo & Equestrian Club in Chonburi. The Pink Polo Cup is a charitable ladies’ polo tournament that has been taking place for a number of years, and aims to raise funds to support King Chulalongkorn Hospital’s Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer. The final polo match saw Paisano Dragons team win this year, with a 3-2 score against the Maple Leaf team. This glamorous and high-octane ladies’ polo tournament was the opener for the Thai polo season and is organized by Harald Link, chairman of B. Grimm Group, and Nunthinee Tanner. Tanner is the first woman to play polo in Thailand, and is the co-owner of the Thai Polo & Equestrian Club. As usual, most of the guests were sporting pink clothing to show their support for the charity; one of those guests was HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana, who presided over the event. The St. Regis Bangkok served its traditional St. Regis Afternoon Tea to its guests, resulting in a pleasurable and delicious afternoon.

Right, from top: HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana greeted upon arrival to Pinlk Polo by Harald Link, chairman of B. Grimm Group ; Paisano Dragons, the winning team Left, clockwise from top: Nunthinee Tanner (4th left) and Harald Link (7th left) during divot stomping; a game at Polo Escape

JANUARY 2015 | 53

LIFESTYLE SPA DEALS

Fly Studio Fitness Classes

What: This irresistible introductory full-body treatment offer starts with a cool pool dip, Thai herbal steam, then a gentle skin exfoliation with the Ocean Breeze body scrub, followed by an Aloe Vera Lavender Body Wrap, Ayurvedic Body Massage, and a Head, Back, and Shoulder Massage. Your journey to serenity is completed with a cooling After Sun Facial Treatment. What’s more, you can share this deal with a friend for free. When: Until further notice Where: Oasis Turquoise Cove Spa: Kamala Beach, 71/10 Moo 5 Soi FantaSea, Phuket How much: Four hours at THB 6,500++ and free beach wrap or beach bag when booked at Oasis Turquoise Cove Spa More info: 076 337 777

Oasis Spa

Buy-1, Get-1 Free Deal from Oasis Phuket

What: Experience a whole new concept in wellness of the mind and body with The FLY Studio’s new fitness packages. Headed by an award-winning trainer with eight years of fitness experience, FLY offers flexible, customized, group or personal fitness training that covers every genre of physical exercise: from yoga to strength training, to fitness for speed, agility, flexibility, and power, for all levels and ages. When: Ongoing Where: 89/54 Mooban Enterprize Park, 15 Bangkaew, Samut Prakarn, Bangkok How much: THB 4,990 (Silver: 10 classes for 2 months), THB 9,000 (Gold: 20 classes for 4 months), and THB 12,000 (Platinum: 30 classes for 6 months). THB 250 for trial class. More info: 08 3135 0336, 09 5653 1307; www.the-flystudio.com

Cleansing Bamboo Charcoal Spa Package What: Enjoy the cleansing benefits of this exclusive new 90-minute Bamboo Charcoal Body Scrub, combined with the Signature Stress-Relief Massage for a perfectly balanced wellness experience. Where: Lotus Spa, The Sukosol Bangkok, Sri Ayuthaya Road, Bangkok Availability: Until end of January Price: THB 1,800 ++ per person Contact: 02 247 0123 ext. 1606–7

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What: Borisud Pure Spa presents a new Pure Cashmere & Silk treatment that harnesses the power of Biodroga. Enjoy a thorough pampering session with luxurious and nourishing essences extracted from the cozy coats of cashmere goats from the Himalayas. So effective is the treatment that it puts you in the mood to party even on a workday. When: Ongoing Where: Mode Sathorn Hotel Bangkok, Sathorn Road (BTS Surasak) How much: THB 3,400 for 60 minutes More info: 02 623 4555 ext. Borisud Pure Spa; www.modesathorn.com

Signature Hot Stone Massage What: Enjoy this 90-minute Signature Hot Stone Massage, created to soothe muscles and relieve tension. Where: Spa Cenvaree, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok Availability: Until February 28 Price: THB 2,000 with additional discount for a 30-minute Indian Head Massage at THB 600 per person Contact: 02 541 1234 ext. 4292 and 4567; spacenvareecglb@chr.co.th

Spa Cenvaree

The Sukosol Bangkok

Bliss of Pure Cashmere and Silk with Biodroga

LIFESTYLE WELLNESS

HEALING FROM WITHIN The Indian holistic healing organization, Shiv Yog, is coming to Bangkok this month to give hands-on training on self-healing.

Shiv Yog

ver the last decade or so, physical, emotional, mental, and spiritual stress has affected mankind like never before. To nullify the negativism, what men need to do is to create an equal amount of positivity and a congenial environment for peace, prosperity, and happiness to take over. It is here that the holistic healing organization Shiv Yog (●www.shivyog.com) steps in with a vast range of powerful meditation practices. Shiv signifies “infinite” and Yog means “union.” So, literally understood, Shiv Yog is defined as the state when an individual realizes the infinite powers within himself to heal all aspects of his life for a healthy, whole, and complete existence. Based on the energy concept, and with the effectiveness of its meditative processes clinically proven through lab testing by distinguished researchers, Shiv Yog is altering the lives of millions around the globe. Excellent physical health, sound relationships, affluence in life, peace of mind, improved work efficiency, tranquility, and an enhanced standard of living are only some of the benefits which the practitioners of Shiv Yog meditation have experienced firsthand. This precious learning is imparted by international healing master, holy sage, and holistic lifestyle coach, Avdhoot Baba Shivanand ji, who has decades of meditative experience behind him. The Awakened Baba ji, an embodiment of unconditional love and a powerhouse of healing

by Parmesh Chopra

energy, shares esoteric wisdom of the Himalayan yogis through which one can also learn how to tap cosmic energy to heal all factors in life. Among the healing programs in the Shiv Yog curriculum, the Shambhavi program ranks right up there. In this healing process, first an Awakened Master (in this case Baba ji) cleanses an individual of all past negativity so that he becomes ready to receive the grace. After the deterging process, Baba ji kindles the flame of Shambhavi in the individual, enabling him with the power to tap, harness, and direct healing energy from the body’s subtle energy centers to cure diseases, heal relationships, and other aspects of life. The Shambhavi program involves in-depth training in the true spiritual

identity of a person, that is: five bodies; seven energy meridians; subtle energy veins; the origin of thoughts and emotions and all about the onset; diagnosis and holistic cure of every possible situation in life. In the words of Avdhoot Baba Shivanand, spiritual master and yogi from India, known as “the father of Indian healing”: “The solution to all problems lies within us.” Bangkok will be hosting Shiv Yog hands-on healing training during a five-day workshop, on January 15–19, 2015. On January 14, Baba ji will conduct an orientation healing seminar to acquaint all participants with Shambhavi healing.

Top: Avdhoot Baba Shivanand ji

JANUARY 2015 | 55

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

CHANGING TASTES Experts taste the pulse of Bangkok’s food and drink scene today – and tell us about the dramatic changes that have entirely reshaped it.

angkok’s food and drink scene has undergone a drastic transformation in recent years. It was, once upon a time, a culinary backwater with no cocktail culture or bar scene

LOOKEAST | WINE & DINE

to note. Now, of course, it is one of the region’s most cosmopolitan cities and a dining destination boasting untold varieties. We chatted to a handful of experts about the way Bangkok has reinvented itself.

All photos by Paul Cypert

by Thomas Sturrock

Joe Cummings Writer and musician “I first arrived in Bangkok on March 18, 1977. Nightlife here back then catered to two very different markets. One served the American presence— with five major military bases just having packed up before I got here (to be replaced by the backpacker market)—and the Thai male market. ‘Good’ Thai girls rarely went to pubs, bars or other non-restaurant-related night-time establishments then, so it was heavily male-dominated, with working girls being the main female component. He adds: “Most live music back then, and up until the mid-1980s, was found in clubs and bars along the Ploenchit and Sukhumvit roads. In the late 80s, live music venues popped up in other parts of the city. The most important neighborhood, in terms of both numbers of venues and quality of music, was Soi Lang Suan and Soi Sarasin. None of these places exist anymore. “Overall the nightlife is better. Big and flashy is out; small and funky is in. For dining out, there are way more international and high-end eateries now than pre-2000. The only thing I miss is the quality of the street food and night markets in the 1970s and 1980s. In my opinion, these have decreased both in numbers and more importantly in quality.”

Steve Craig Artisanal butcher at The Accidental Butcher (●www.theaccidentalbutcher.com) “Casual dining and wine conceptbased restaurants would be the biggest segment shift in the hospitality industry throughout Bangkok – this is both within independent businesses and also in outlets within hotels. He continued: “It’s driven by disposable incomes and kids leading the way, encouraging their parents to try something outside of the norm. They can relax and enjoy the fruits of their labor. “The growing appetite for beef is all about availability,” he added. “Often, the issue here is being able to find the products. Once found, purchases follow as does word of mouth. Many a chef in Bangkok will say that Thai people do not like grassor pasture-fed beef – I say they’re wrong: 50 percent of my customers are Thai and we don’t sell any grainfed beef, it’s all grass-fed. Who’s right and who’s wrong? It’s debatable, but it’s all about education. “I have many friends that are chefs, and me being a food person and a cook of sorts, we talk about food, ingredients, the industry, etc. But the funny thing in Bangkok is that we never talk about the next big thing … this is sad! Trends exist for a very short period here and I think the great culinary experience we are missing here are the pub grub and gastro bar experiences.”

Ian Kittichai Chef and restaurateur “I think the variety of restaurants and cuisines has expanded quite rapidly. Bangkok is still behind the trends of other big cities, but it is closing the gap very fast. He adds: “People are appreciating that Thai food doesn’t have to be something cheap and fast, and that there is more to experience with flavor combinations, and ambience and service as well. Dining should be an overall experience and there are now all types of different ways and settings to experience Thai cuisine. Kittichai continues: “I think Bangkok has always been an attractive dining destination, but now we see a depth and variety of cuisines and dining experiences offered versus what was available in the past. Many more restaurants now operate outside hotels and I think that is quite important – we see that development all over Asia. It increases the competitive landscape and pushes restaurants, hotels and chefs to continue improving and innovating. “Some of my formative career background was spent working in five-star hotels. Back then, the hotels would be the only ones to bring in famous or Michelin-starred guest chefs. Now the chefs themselves are coming to Bangkok to open restaurants or do guest chef events in restaurants.”

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WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

Daryl Scott Nightclub owner and entrepreneur “The Thai market has opened its heart and mind and has accepted new trends. Just in the last four years, wines bars, craft beer bars, and upscale cocktail lounges are appearing. Bangkok never had that until four or five years ago. You have these places that do molecular cocktails – even three years ago, no one was doing that. “When I first came out here, working in clubs, you could only get Johnnie Walker Black, maybe Johnnie Blue; for vodka, only plain Absolut, nothing else. That change all happened slowly so we had to bring it in by hand-carrying bottles. Thousands and thousands of dollars of alcohol every month was brought in inside people’s suitcases. Single malt, every tequila, every other whiskey, every other vodka. The demand has become more sophisticated and the market has expanded to cater to that. “When I open Chi Ultralounge (●facebook.com/ChiUltralounge) on Soi 15, it’s going to be only about the best, premium ingredients in the cocktails. That’s what banging nightclubs specialize in now. It’s not just about volume any more. That was the biggest change. “For DJs, Bangkok just wasn’t part of anyone’s grand plans for Asia. It’s now 100 times what I used to see when I first came here. The economy changed and Bangkok became more appealing – a top tourist destination rivaling anywhere in the world.”

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Nooror Somany Steppe Executive chef and co-founder of Blue Elephant Restaurant Group “Thai food has become very popular. I’ve seen it when I travel as well. It’s really interesting to see the modern techniques being used. As a chef, I love to use modern techniques but you have to keep Thai tastes and retain its authenticity. “Chefs have changed their attitudes to Thai food but customers have changed as well. They still want the Thai tastes but the modern presentation can be there. I have seen that change occur quickly in maybe three or four years. “People have become educated about food – a lot of customers are foreigners; they know more about Thai food as well. And Thai people tended to eat at home because their mothers were the best cooks but they have become more interested in going out and going to restaurants. “Thai people traditionally had a “som rap” or shared dining style. But we needed to make it so that everyone had their own plate, like in a French restaurant or any other cuisine. That had to happen for Thai food to become more like fine dining. “Everyone loves to drink wine now, so we need to think about pairing wine and Thai food. It depends on the dish, of course. A pomelo salad, you want a fruity wine. If it’s a meat dish, then that goes with red wine. But you can also have a chilled red wine or rose as well.”

David Jacobson Q Bar founder and current owner of Smalls (●www.facebook.com/smallsbkk) “It’s changed so much. I came here and opened Q Bar in 1999, and having lived in Hong Kong and Singapore, I saw that the bar scene was so bad here. You’d order a scotch and soda and the servers didn’t even know the word ‘scotch.’ I thought it was easy pickings—there was no competition. That’s how primitive it was – they had nothing available in terms of drinks. That’s one of the biggest changes, the amount of different alcohol that’s now available … good gins, good bourbons. None of that stuff was here. “In the early years, I was asked to be a judge for Bacardi’s Bartender of the year and it was all flair. That was what people thought bartending was all about – not cocktails or mixology. Now, young Thai guys from good families actually want to be mixologists. They’ve changed the way Thai people drinks – they’ve become more brand-conscious and more interested in good cocktails. “In terms of food, Thailand was ignored for a long time. No one talked about Bangkok – that took time. But that all changed when David Thompson came in. Bo.Lan, Sra Bua, Soul Food, Paste came later. People are eating in a different way than they did five years ago, when they were still going to pubs and getting a Shepherd’s Pie.”

JANUARY 2015 | 59

All photos by Paul Cypert

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

FRECNH WTIH A TIWST Another venture backed by a Michelin-starred chef comes to town: J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain.

This page: Bourguignonne beef cheeks with marinated onions and a coriander salad Opposite page, bottom left: Tuna tartar with marinated eggplant, green tomatoes, and spicy cucumber bubbles Opposite page, center and bottom: Trio of desserts; oyster terrine with confit shallots, red wine gelée, and spinach

oodies in Bangkok are being spoiled by a wave of chefs either holding Michelin stars or having worked in Michelin-starred establishments around the world, who are coming to Thailand to open or to be a part of restaurants that deserve a visit: La Scala, Brasserie 9, Aziamendi, Vogue Lounge Bangkok, and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon are just a few, while J’AIME by JeanMichel Lorain (●U Sathorn Hotel; 02 119 4899; www.jaime-bangkok. com), will be the focus of our attention this time. Opened this past November, J’AIME’s menu is inspired by Lorain’s experience and success, which granted his hotel and restaurant, La Côte Saint Jacques, in France, nothing

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by Anita Zaror less that three Michelin stars. However, J’AIME’s concept is different to that of the restaurant located 90 minutes from Paris. Through his Italian protégé and resident chef at J’AIME, Amerigo Sesti, and her daughter Marine as front of house, Lorain is making sure a standard is maintained. The French fare served here, however, has a twist: it combines contemporary and classic French dishes and techniques, which are served on a shared Asian table. The restaurant’s décor, based on an “upside down” interior design concept—that features chandeliers used as tables and a piano that will hang from the ceiling, among others— also emphasize the fact that they are trying to do things differently. The menu at J’AIME consists

of soups; appetizers; fish, shellfish, and crustaceans; meat and poultry; and desserts. We started with a red pepper and blood orange soup with goat’s cheese and Provencal herb foam (THB 300). Although I’m not a very big fan of foams, this dish was one of my favorites of the evening, and definitely one of the highlights of the menu with its tangy and creamy contrast of flavors. We continued with an ocean oyster terrine with confit shallots, red wine gelée, and spinach (THB 910); this dish is one of the stars of Lorain’s restaurant back in France and, hence, is included in J’AIME’s menu as well. Plated as a true work of art, you won’t guess what you’re about to eat until you have a piece of the brownish gelée in your mouth. A very interesting

Then, pan-seared foie gras on lightly mashed new potatoes and Gaeta olives (THB 920), which works well both as an appetizer or an entrée, followed by the Bourguignonne beef cheeks with marinated onions and a coriander salad (THB 1,550) to end a fabulous dinner in a traditional French style. For dessert you want to go for the three- or five-piece sets (THB 420 and THB 700 respectively), and make sure your selection includes the chocolate and coffee gateau Opera, the passion fruit soufflé, and the mille-feuille Napoleon. And one thing that needs to be said about presentation: Lorain and his team don’t take it for granted. Although he was back in France when we visited the restaurant, we had the chance to speak to chef Sesti, who told us they are currently looking for local producers that can produce certain products for them, instead of having to import 80 percent of the ingredients, which is what they do now.

– There seems to be a new trend of restaurants backed up by Michelin-starred chefs being opened in Bangkok. What do you think about this? – Maybe this is the new marketplace to come to. Perhaps the market is ready for this kind of gastronomy, so the chefs start to arrive and people begin investing and call other chefs to come. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.

This page, from left to right: Amerigo Sesti, Jean-Michel Lorain, and Marine Lorain

U Sathorn Bangkok

element of this dish is an oyster leaf (mertensia maritima), also known as “vegetarian oyster.” You have to try it as you’ll be nicely surprised … it’s not only for decoration! Next came a fresh tuna tartar with marinated eggplant, green tomatoes, and spicy cucumber bubbles (THB 510) and a dish of pearl barley and arugula salad with cured egg yolk and Parmesan spume (THB 450), again one of my favorites of the evening for its colorful, inventive presentation and layers of textures and flavors that come in as a pleasant, refreshing break in between courses. Onto the seafood. Being that scallops are one of my favorite types of shellfish, the pan-seared scallops with chanterelle mushrooms and cappuccino-style foam (THB 1,260), perfectly seared, was simply delicious. Thai people will probably love the lightly-seared cod on a creamy soft crab brandade with confit tomatoes and chili oil (THB 1,120) – don’t underestimate the “chili” part.

JANUARY 2015 | 61

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

Kai

looking for lunch. The Canterbury Plains (THB 320) is stacked with gorgeous New Zealand lamb, mint paste, honey roasted carrots, and rosemary potato, and is definitely one of the highlights. But as the sun sets and Kai morphs into a sleek, evening dining venue, it’s hard to shake the sense that the seafood dishes are the more upscale, more ambitious offerings. For example, the South Pacific ceviche (THB 350), combines gurnard marinated in lemon juice, garlic, ginger, and chili, topped with tomato, red onions, coriander, and coconut cream. The Kiwi approach to food may be uncomplicated, but this is a spectacular dish. Kiwi oysters are generally excellent, so by all means go for the Bluff oysters (four for THB 560). And no seafood banquet would be complete without trying Kai’s wholesome fish and chips, whether it’s the orange roughy (THB 550) or Southern hake (THB 450), battered and pan-fried alongside a generous portion of thick-cut chips. Open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

THE NEW KAI IN TOWN Kiwi foodies advertise the undeniable appeal of New Zealand cuisine.

by Thomas Sturrock

iners in Bangkok may not immediately know what to expect when they come across a restaurant serving “New Zealand cuisine.” But upon entering Kai (●142/22–23 Sathorn Soi 12; 02 635 3800; www.kai-bangkok.com)—which means “food” in Maori—it is quickly apparent that these Kiwi foodies have a clear vision.

Run by the same guys behind Snapper on Sukhumvit Soi 11, Kai keeps the focus on quality produce presented in a straightforward fashion. Seafood features heavily, but Kai also branches out beyond that, allowing much-celebrated Kiwi lamb and beef to shine as well. There’s an all-day dining approach to the menu, ensuring some serious sandwiches for anyone

TUSCAN INDULGENCE Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen has arrived in town with more than just delicious Italian ingredients … rancesco Lenzi has recently opened his own restaurant, Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen (●69/1-2 Ruamrudee 2, Bangkok; 02 001 0116; www.lenzibangkok.com), serving up his unique Tuscan dishes. The view into the open kitchen is an integral part of the dining experience. When we visited, the first dish to come out was the tagliere del Lenzi platter of Bazzone ham, and black and white truffle-stuffed mortadella culatello, the best Tuscan ham imported from his uncle’s organic farm. He doesn’t serve pizza but has a wood-burning oven as it’s the right technique for some of his dishes. Charcoal from the oven is taken out to fuel the grill. For other dishes he

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cooks on the gas range, using heavy steel pans. His gnudi is a naked ravioli, ricotta cheese served without the pasta wrap. His Parmesan and prawn risotto is both beautiful in its presentation and has amazing multiple complimentary flavors. The 12-year aged balsamic vinegar pairs well with both the strawberry and the Parmesan, while the prawns and strawberries are both sweet. He serves his tournedos Rossini, traditionally filled steak topped with truffles and foie gras, by replacing the beef with lamb served on a bed of spinach. Italian with a difference and quality. Kai

by Laurence Civil

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WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

TAKING IT TO THE STREETS Here’s what you need to know about Bangkok’s food truck revolution by Dave Stamboulis

hile street food and street carts have always been an integral part of Bangkok life, local eats have gotten that much more interesting over the past months. A burgeoning movement of food trucks has sprung up, adding to the mushrooming foodie fanaticism that has entrenched Bangkok firmly on the Asian gourmet map. We take a look at some of the city’s best meals on wheels.

La Monita

(●02 650 9581; www.lamonita.com/ taco-truck/#truck)

This is one truck you won’t ever have to worry about finding. La Monita, Bangkok’s well-noted Mexican restaurant, has opened a truck which sits permanently parked on the restaurant (ground) floor of Siam Paragon. Inspired by the taco trucks of San Francisco, it serves up guacamole, burritos, and carne asada without the outdoor humidity.

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(●09 5628 0416; www.facebook.com/ orntheroadbkk)

A leader in the gourmet burger scene, Orn’s charcoal grills its patties and tops them with signature sauces like bleu cheese. This farang/Thai duo had 28 years in Bangkok running a grill, so they know their burgers well, and the truck does take some inspiration from Jack Kerouac. The burgermeisters do visit a lot of food fests, but they usually can be found between Thong Lor 11 and 13 right across the street from Grass.

Annette I Tim Tuk Tuk

(●09 0402 9349; www.annetteitimtuktuk. com)

To succeed in this business, you need a novel product and niche, and Anne’s homemade gelato certainly fits the bill. This enterprising Thai artiste now operates nine custom made tuk tuks from which are hawked homemade gelato bars that only have 7 to 9 percent fat. The combo of iconic tuk

tuk with ice cream has done so well, you can even find them in Pattaya and Chiang Mai these days, but the most central location is the one parked up on the fourth floor of the Siam Center. Mango and passion fruit is the bestseller, but the tiramisu comes a close second.

All photos by Dave Stamboulis

Orn the Road

Summer Street

(●www.facebook.com/pages/ SummerStreet/1615933711964393)

Eschewing the traditional burger truck theme, Summer Street dishes out grill-it-yourself barbecued seafood baskets out of a vintage Citroen truck that is fixed to the sidewalk in hipster Ari. The three young Thai friends behind this operation all have design backgrounds and were inspired by a trip to Japan to open an izakaya-style eatery in a classic mobile format. You can even get craft beer to go with your freshwater prawns here. The silver truck can be found just at the start of Ari Soi 2.

Banh Mi Boy

(●091 859 0926; www.facebook.com/ banhmiboythailand)

This Vietnamese sandwich truck is a most welcome addition to the mobile ethnic eats mix, serving up delicious crispy roast pork and lemongrass chicken on homemade baguettes. It is only open for lunch at present and does move around a bit, although its main haunt is on Sukhumvit Soi 47. As with all these mobile vendors, make sure to check their Facebook pages before heading over. JANUARY 2015 | 65

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

Daniel Thaiger

Kofuku

Mother Trucker

DanielThaiger)

kofuku.japanese.sandwich)

MotherTruckerBKK)

Blame Daniel Thaiger for all of this gourmet mobile food. Considered the pioneer of the Bangkok truck movement, this rig, which is usually found in Sukhumvit Soi 38 just past all the street eats, was started by Mark and Honey Falcioni, whose friends complained about the lack of good hamburgers in Bangkok. Their truck, named after their son, gets endless accolades, with lines down the block and waits of up to an hour for their renowned burgers.

Built to look like a Japanese izakaya eatery with hanging lanterns, this truck specializes in tonkatsu pork cutlets, served up as a sandwich or with rice and curry. The idea has been so successful that Kofuku now runs four trucks, but the original and main one can be found at Lad Phrao’s happening Town in Town at The Scene on Sri Wara Road.

These heavyweights have also muscled in on the mobile burger trade and serve up Bangkok’s most whopping hamburgers, 150-gram beef and pork patties. They provide a much-needed burger lift to the Khao San area and are usually found in Banglamphu (Soi Kraisi opposite the famed Jok Banglamphu) and the truck also calls in at Thaniya Plaza in Silom.

(●084 5490 995, www.facebook.com/

Pizza Aroy

(●08 1752 6368; www.pizza-aroy.com)

Yes, there even is a wood-fired mobile pizza oven to go with all your truck choices. This decked-out Tata truck supports a real wood-burning oven and serves up pies that are far above average. The most popular is the funnily named Pizza Mai Sabai, which adds the Thai twist of spiced chicken and holy basil. The truck caters events, but its main home is at Lad Phrao’s Town in Town Soi 4.

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(●08 9766 7768; www.facebook.com/

Cheesebreak BKK

(●08 3272 7999; www.facebook.com/ FullMoonFoodTruckBKK)

Leave it to two New York dudes to make Philly cheesesteak sandwiches and mac and cheese Bangkok staples. While one would think only expat Americans crave an overdose of cheesy goodies, locals have embraced it as well. The truck used to be miles out at Chatuchak, but it now operates at the On Nut Night Market each evening.

(●08 5121 3767; www.facebook.com/

Tuttle Publishing

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

THAILANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST STREET FOOD A list of some of the best roadside eats to be found in the northern, northeastern, and southern regions of the kingdom.

Bottom right from top: Pad Thai wrapped in egg at Thipsamai; chicken satay

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Chawadee Nualkhair

or beef stew flavored with fermented soybeans and chilies When something is delicious, it is called lum in the northern dialect. In Isan (northeastern Thailand), Laotian and Vietnamese influences predominate. This means a lot of dishes (like kai kratha) still bear strong traces of their culinary ancestry. Here, strong, fiery, tangy, and salty flavors come to the forefront. Isan food (grilled chicken, green papaya salad, sticky rice) is some of the most popular in the country. However, other dishes have so far eluded widespread attention. Some other must-try dishes here include: 1. Jaew hon (also known as jum jim), a Thai-style sukiyaki that uses an Isan-flavored broth that is especially spicy

Tuttle Publishing

angkok isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only city to go to for great street food. In the north, street food is characterized by Chinese and Burmese influences, frequently resulting in richer textures, heavier flavors, and a slow-building heat undercut by salt and a slight bitterness. The most popular dishes to get here are: 1. Khao soi, also known as the curried noodle dish, incorporating egg noodles with your choice of protein and coconut milk. 2. Sai oua, the Northern Thai pork sausage seasoned with dried chilies, mahgrood lime leaves, shallots, garlic, lemongrass and plenty of turmeric. 3. Khanom jeen nam ngiew, a Monstyle fermented rice noodle dish slathered in a Bolognese-like pork

by Chawadee Nualkhair

contemporary indian dining

Nawabi Raan by Chef Pratab Singh, formerly at Bukhara (ITC Maurya New Delhi)

#71 indus@indusbangkok.com #71Sukhumvit SukhumvitSoi Soi26. 26.||Tel. Tel.02-258-4900 02-258-4900 | | www.indusbangkok.com www.indusbangkok.com ||indus@indusbangkok.com

Tuttle Publishing

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

Tuttle Publishing

2. Mieng pla, steamed or deep-fried fish that is wrapped up in lettuce leaves with rice vermicelli and herbs and dipped in a spicy chili sauce 3. Kai kratha, roughly translated to “egg in a pan,” a culinary import from Vietnam The word for delicious in northeastern Thailand is saab. The south is where some of the country’s most distinctive food can be found, thanks to Malaysian, Thai-Muslim, and Hokkien Chinese influences. On the island of Phuket, unusual dishes such as o-tao (oyster omelets topped with pork rinds) and mee pad Hokkien (Hokkien-style

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fried noodles with egg) are available, while the seaside towns of Cha-am and Hua Hin abound in Chinese-style soup noodles and old-fashioned Thai desserts. You can find just about any kind of street food you can think of in the south, but some excellent choices here would include: 1. Khanom jeen nam ya, the slightly sour fermented rice noodle that, unlike in the north, is topped with a shredded fish or crabmeat coconut milk-based curry 2. Gai tod, or fried chicken, considered a specialty of southern Thailand and a delicious addition to any lunch or dinner alongside rice, soup and a curry 3. A Thai-style dessert involving some sort of dumpling floating in coconut milk such as khanom ko or kai thao (translated to “turtle’s eggs” because of their round appearance) 4. Khanom jeen stalls are always instantly recognizable by the sheer volume of garnishes on the table for each curry served. You will likely encounter fresh mango and/or cashew nut leaves, plus bean sprouts, sliced green beans and a motley collection of herbs, as well as pickled mustard greens and hard-boiled eggs at the very least

This article is an excerpt from Chawadee Nualkhair’s book, “Thailand’s Best Street Food,” published by Tuttle Publishing. Available in Asia Books and Kinokuniya for THB 495.

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

THE BEST SCOOP IN BANGKOK Guess which country the American ice cream brand Emack & Bolio’s chose to open its first international venture … by Percy Roxas international foray, is managed by Ben Leiner, founder and chief ice cream officer of NYC-Thai BD Co., Ltd. What’s unique with Emack & Bolio’s is that it doesn’t use milk from cows injected with genetically induced hormones. Also, many of its more than 100 flavors are certified halal. All of the ice cream is made in the U.S. and imported to Thailand. Then there are the unique, outrageous flavor combinations, and the fact that they’re always fresh, rich, delicious … and fun to eat! But don’t just believe us, go try them for yourself—not only the premium ice cream, but also the signature cones and the smoothies.

Emack & Bolio’s

n March 2014, a new ice cream brand from the U.S. made its debut in Thailand by opening a store at Nichada Plaza in Nichada Thani. It was such a hit that after just four months, this brand had to open another shop— this time on the sixth floor of the hugely popular lifestyle destination, CentralWorld. What is this ice cream that is taking Bangkok by storm? It’s Emack & Bolio’s: a chain of premium ice cream founded by lawyer and selfprofessed hippy, Robert Rook, in 1975. Now based in Massachusetts, Emack & Bolio’s boasts a number of boutique ice cream parlors in several U.S. states. Bangkok, its first

COLONIAL CHARM The freshly opened A.R. Sutton & Co Engineers Siam stamps a seal of refinement on the Ekkamai area, and returns Ashley Sutton to the forefront of the Bangkok bar scene

micro-distillery which, according to Sutton himself “specializes in the spirit purification of local fruits and botanicals of Thailand and Southeast Asia.” Although not yet fully functional, we can look forward to the essence of the place ending up in each glass, taking the cocktail game in the city to new heights. During the week, visitors can catch classical recitals from small ensembles that complete the polished picture of the venue. The drop-in crowd is a mix of Sutton devotees, bar-hoppers, and voguish locals. Reservations are not accepted, because there is no phone. You can also pop next door for

some Thai tapas plates at Hot Rod – a perfect dovetail venue for a night out in the area. Open daily from 6 p.m. until midnight.

A.R. Sutton & Co Engineers Siam

dding a sense of colonialera sophistication to lower Ekkamai is the new arrival of A.R. Sutton & Co Engineers Siam (●G/F, Park Lane, 18 Sukhumvit Soi 63; www.fb.com/A.R.Sutton.engineers), courtesy of namesake “bar-chitect” Ash Sutton. Tucked away in the multipurpose Park Lane precinct, Sutton’s signature attention to detail is visible in every nook and cranny of the ornate mezzanine-lined venue, which houses around 20 people inside, and another 20 outside. Not to be lost in the finer details, standing in the front glass atrium that extends from the main room is an impressive artesian brass

by Richard Mcleish

JANUARY 2015 | 71

WINE&DINE THE FIFTH TASTE

) W.FIFTHTASTE.COM.AU CHEF BEN MCRAE (●WW ING NN WI DAR OF S AW IN CK JO ILS THE TIPS AND TRI COLUMN, AS HE UNVE A EVERY MONTH IN THIS STOMERS LEAVE WITH BARS THAT ENSURE CU D AN TS AN UR E STA RE OS E TH THOS EM DESIRE YMENT THAT MAKES TH JO EN IC OM ON STR SENSE OF GA ER AGAIN. FLAVORS OVER AND OV

Game Over Lounge and NERD:

Center, from left to right: Board games; Daniel Thaiger beef burger

ust when I was starting to feel that Bangkok needed a new outlook on dining and socializing, a new little venture popped up in Thonglor. Well, not that little. In fact, this new venue is actually quite large and impressive in many ways. Offering a friendly and comfortable space for online gaming, beer pong, board games and even a game of pool, the new Game Over Lounge (●1000/39 Liberty Plaza, Thonglor, Bangkok) has all you need to enjoy a fun night out without the need to be part of a Tri-Lamb fraternity. But we are here to talk about NERD, the aptly-named restaurant that operates inside the

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NERD

Ben McRae

GAME ON!

complex. It will keep you on top of your game with a simple yet satisfying menu that has all the elements of an American-style diner. Those familiar with Mark, who operates the well-known burger food truck from Sukhumvit soi 38, Daniel Thaiger, will be pleased to know that he’s the one behind NERD. I tasted several menu items on my visit and was not let down by any of them. From the addictive truffle and Parmesan fries (THB 150) to the peanut butter and chocolate malted shake (THB 240), from the Uncle Tew Lamb Burger (THB 340) to the Slammin’ Salmon Burger (THB 280), each dish was unique and delicious. Although the menu really is

just burgers, snacks, milkshakes, cocktails, and craft beer from Beervana (●www.seekbeervana. com), including the outstanding Kagua red from Japan (THB 290), if you are after a satisfying comfort fix—together with a bit of gaming— you will love NERD. With its imaginative interior and colorful décor that will make you feel as if you are inside a video game, this funky new outlet really is a mustvisit. Well done to the Game Over and NERD team. Being a nerd has a cool side after all! Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Rocket 49:

ANOTHER STYLISH BRUNCH AND COCKTAIL CAFÉ SET TO ROCK spearmint (THB 330). This was a very refreshing drink with an awesome hit of spearmint. Not having eaten Scandinavian food for quite some time, it was a good choice that Thomas then brought to the table a selection of classics. Salmon gravlax on rye with pickled vegetables, horseradish, and a lemon dill cream (THB 300); toast Skagen, a delicious salad of prawn, mayo, tobiko with lemon, and iceberg lettuce (THB 300); Swedish meatballs served with gravy, mashed potato, lingonberries, and pickled cucumber (THB 330); and, last of all, a grilled mackerel on rye bread with potato chips, mustard leaves, and a creamy cucumber salad (THB 195). All the dishes had their own stand-out points and were executed well in true Scandinavian fashion. With the savory food I enjoyed a bottle of Phuket beer (THB 180), a boutique beer made in Thailand, and available at selected outlets. It was a perfect match for the dishes I indulged in. Despite already feeling satisfied, desserts were then brought to the table: the Sapparot, Ichigo, and Mokaya (all at THB 240). These were by far the tastiest desserts I’ve had in Bangkok and were paired with an Italian Rose and two more of Thomas’s cocktails – the perfect way to finish off the evening. With an upstairs eating terrace overlooking the main dining area, awesome chillout music and friendly hospitality, Rocket S.49 is definitely worth a visit. I have a feeling we haven’t seen the last of the Sapparot group’s adventures, and I am looking forward to seeing what they come up with next … The Fifth Taste was impossible to miss here and the lasting memory still in my head today are the mindblowing desserts. Open daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.

From top: Branded fresh coconuts; view from the second floor; salmon gravlax on rye with pickled vegetables

xxx

ocated on Sukhumvit 49 under the well-known nightclub Grease, the hospitality gurus behind the Sapparot Group (sapparot meaning “pineapple” in Thai), have set into another new expansion within the company. Based on the same concept as the original Rocket café in Sathorn, Rocket Coffeebar S.49 (● Sukhumvit soi 49, Bangkok; www. rocketcoffeebar.com) is ready to bring in the crowd from the other side of town. Sticking to its classic Scandinavian décor of wooden furniture and funky light fittings, Rocket S.49 provides you with the quaint, welcoming atmosphere that the group is now a master at providing. Open from early morning until late at night, the food is almost identical to the original café, offering a delicious brunch menu with hill tribe eggs any way you like, nutritious mueslis, traditional Scandinavian fare, “Rocket Fuel” coffee, salads, and pasta. Then there is the dessert menu. Four items to choose from, and all of them are well created, perfectly executed, and outstandingly presented. I was fortunate enough to have been hosted by Thomas Anostam on my visit. He is one of the group’s partners, a mixologist whiz, with an in-depth knowledge of hospitality and a passion for what he does that was clear to see. On arrival I was treated to two cocktails. The first was a Botany Bay, which is a refreshing blend of freshly squeezed grapes, gin, sake yuzu, and slow-juiced pineapple (THB 360) – a good balance of flavors that awakened my taste buds and had me wondering what would come next. The second cocktail was the Fresher Mule, which is Rocket’s take on the Moscow Mule: a mix of vodka, slow-juiced ginger, lime, soda, cucumber, and

JANUARY 2015 | 73

WINE&DINE DINING SPECIALS

Catch of the Day

What: Indulge in selected fresh fish— such as red garoupa, sand goby, and gray promfret—and have them prepared in your favorite way: steamed or deep-fried with light soya sauce, steamed with lime and chili sauce, stir-fried with celery in black bean sauce, or otherwise. When: Ongoing Where: The Mayflower Restaurant, Dusit Thani Bangkok, Rama IV (BTS Sala Daeng) How much: Fish fillet starts at THB 500++ and whole fish starts at THB 1,800++ More info: 02 200 9000 ext. 2345; dtbkdining@dusit.com

LOOKEAST | WINE & DINE

Modern Thai Cuisine Unlimited

What: One of the best ways to explore an original take on Thai culinary classics and fresh inspirations, the “Gourmet One Unlimited Set” is presented by a passionate team of chefs. When: Every Tuesday through Saturday evening Where: Rice & Chilli Restaurant, 5th floor, Mode Sathorn Hotel Bangkok (BTS Surasak) How much: THB 1,900 net for two More info: 02 623 4555 ext. Rice & Chilli; www.modesathorn.com

The Sukhothai Bangkok

What: Food plays a key role in Chinese culture more so than during the Chinese New Year. At The Peninsula Bangkok, guests can indulge and celebrate the Chinese New Year with special Chinese meals at the award-winning Mei Jiang Cantonese restaurant and River Cafe & Terrace. When: February 15–22 Where: Mei Jiang and River Terrace, The Peninsula Bangkok, Charoen Nakorn Road (free shuttle bus from Saphan Taksin Pier) How much: THB 2,580++ per person and THB 2,980++ per person at Mei Jiang. The Chinese New Year Dinner Buffet at the River Cafe & Terrace is priced at THB 1,800++ per person More info: 02 626 1919, 02 861 2361 or email: ckasemsuk@peninsula.com

Dusit Thani Bangkok

Quintessential Gourmet Delicacies

What: Dusit Thani Bangkok launches its newest restaurant, 22 Kitchen and Bar, at its famed panoramic rooftop venue. The new restaurant offers diners a menu based on Pacific coastal cuisine, prepared by a team led by chef Nikolas Ramirez (formerly of El Encanto by Orient Express and the Wine Cask, both in California, U.S.). The menu reflects his personal and professional history as a native Hawaiian with Latin roots, and classic culinary training. When: Daily for dinner Where: 22 Kitchen & Bar, Dusit Thani Hotel Bangkok (BTS Sala Daeng) How much: Varies More info: 02 200 9000 ext. 2345

Mode Sathorn Bangkok

The Peninsula Bangkok

New Vision, Same Fantastic View

Coffee’n Coffee

What: Ensure a great start to the year, wake up to the taste of “Coffee’n Coffee” by executive Pastry chef Laurent Ganguillet. Indulge in bittersweet marbled coffee mousse on almond sponge cake, garnished with crunchy chocolate pearls. When: January 1–31 Where: Thimian, The Sukhothai Bangkok, Sathorn Road How much: THB 720 net for one pound; THB 1400 net for two pounds; THB 2,100 net for three pounds (whole cake) More info: 02 344 8888; promotions@sukhothai.com

Centra Central Station Bangkok

Cantonese Food with Wines

Candy Crush Soda Saga

Jazzy Canapés

What: Enjoy memorable evenings of red hot live jazz and discover a menu of new gourmet light bites created by a talented culinary team – the perfect accompaniment to The Living Room’s exceptional wine list and classic cocktails. When: Ongoing Where: The Living Room, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Road (BTS Nana) How much: From THB 540++ for eight canapés More info: 02 649 8353; dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

What: Enjoy treats, from sweet frosting to scrumptious candies and sodas, at Chocolab. You can also eat as much as you can during Cocoa Rush Hour. When: From 4 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. (Mon-Fri) and from 3 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. (SatSun) until end of January Where: Chocolab, G Floor, Sofitel So Bangkok, Rama 4 Rd (MRT Lumpini) How much: THB 750++ per person More info: 02 624 0000; h6835-fb3@sofitel.com

Japanese Beef Promotion

What: Elements is adding beef from Japan to its extensive a la carte menu. Guests may order the finest cuts of Hokkaido, Matzusaka, and Kiwami beef, cooked to order as part of a memorable dining experience. When: Throughout January Where: Elements, 25th floor, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Wireless Road (BTS Ploenchit) How much: From THB 2,200++ More info: 02 687 9000; elements@okurabangkok.com

Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam

Sofitel SO Bangkok

What: An adventurous set menu for lovers of food and wine, pairing Cantonese dishes with a selection of white, red, and plum wines from China at the Chinese restaurant of Centra Central Statiaon Hotel Bangkok. When: Ongoing Where: Chyna at Centra Central Station Hotel Bangkok How much: THB 789 net per person, with a minimum of two people per table More info: 02 344 1699 ext. 3; csb@chr.co.th

Seafood BBQ Festival

What: A spectacular weekend buffet brunch with a variety of fresh seafood on ice! Be spoiled with a choice of fresh oysters, mussels, prawns, crab, and more, including international and Asian favorites such as sushi, dim sum, crispy pork belly, and roast duck. Enjoy also a delectable array of homemade desserts highlighted by a chocolate fountain plus a wide variety of cakes, mousses, crepes, and traditional Thai desserts. When: Every weekend Where: The Square Restaurant, 6th floor, Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam How much: THB 849++ per person including free flow of juices or THB 1,349++ per person including free flow of beer and wine More info: 02 160 7123, 02 160 7100 ext. 8702; www.novotelbangkokplatinum.com

JANUARY 2015 | 75

WINE&DINE BAR SPECIALS

Ladies Night

What: Free red or white wine for all women guests all night. When: Every Tuesday Where: Cellar 11, Sukhumvit 11 (BTS Nana) How much: Varies More info: 02 255 5833; www.cellar11.com

Massive Thursday

What: Ladies get in free, and get five free drinks before midnight. Enjoy the music by DJ Nut, MC Conga, DJ Don, and DJ Champ. When: Every Thursday Where: Narz, Sukhumvit 23 How much: Varies More info: 02 258 4805

Whisgars Opens in Silom

Jazzy Season with New York Diva

What: Enjoy some drinks to the rhythm of New York jazz diva, Pucci Amanda Jhones, who will light up the night at The Living Room. With a well-deserved reputation among the jazz cognoscenti for her highly original voice, Pucci will delight music lovers with memorable performances at this jazz venue. She has performed from Manhattan to Los Angeles, from Las Vegas to Switzerland, from Japan to Kuala Lumpur. When: Until February 14 Where: The Living Room, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (BTS Asoke/MRT Sukhumvit) How much: Free entrance More info: 02 649 8353; dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com

LOOKEAST | WINE & DINE

Fraser Suites’ Ladies Night

Whisgars

What: Whisgars launched its fourth branch in Silom in December, with two exciting additions, a smoke-free speakeasy themed cocktail mixology lounge and vodka ice bar. Whisgars Silom now offers an incredible selection of single cask whiskies, cigars, and menu of creative canapés. When: Open nightly Where: Whisgars Silom, Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd corner of Surasak How much: Varies More info: www.whisgars.com

New Trendsetting Lounge & Club Opens in Pattaya What: The sophisticated Kandy Lounge & Club has opened in Pattaya recently. The trendy premier night venue brings to the resort city a new level of the finest lounge experiences in a metropolitan setting. With its refined décor, exquisite signature menu from its London chef, outstanding entertainment acts, and DJs from around the world, Kandy Lounge & Club is that perfect fusion for those who are seeking a tasteful spot to hang out with friends, entertain guests and clients, impress a date, or even throw the coolest party of the year. When: Ongoing Where: Chateau Dale, Thappraya Road, Pratamnak, Pattaya How much: Varies More info: www.weluvkandy.com

What: Enjoy salsa music and 50 percent discount for ladies on drinks every week at Above Eleven. When: Every Wednesday from 9 p.m. Where: Above Eleven, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit 11 (BTS Nana) How much: Varies More info: 02 207 9300

Wine Tasting and Premium Cheese

What: A wine tasting and premium cheese platter promotion with five kinds When: Every Monday Where: Axis & Spin, Continent Hotel (BTS Asok) How much: THB 999++ More info: 02 686 7000

Black Swan Happy Hours

What: Happy Hour from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. with special prices for beers When: Daily Where: Black Swan, 326/8-9 Sukhumvit Soi 14 How much: Varies More info: 02 626 0257

WINE&DINE WORLD OF WINE

Did You Know? There are thousands of grape varieties, but only a few hundred are used to make wine. Learn about the most prominent ones. by Jérôme Chambon, senior trade advisor for Agribusiness, French Trade Commission

ine is an endlessly fascinating subject. One of the most important elements of a wine education is knowledge of the main characteristics of grape varieties, as among the thousands varieties in existence, only a few hundred are used to make wines. Ten of them have established a reputation for making premium quality wines in locations across the world, and they are considered as international grape varieties.

White Grapes

Chardonnay is a very delicate variety which is not aromatic and has the particularity of being able to generate premium wines in very different types of climates. Its flavors can vary from green fruits to tropical fruits depending on the climate. Moreover, the production process has a great influence on the wine flavors, and Chardonnay is often associated with a creamy taste. Burgundy is the classic region of production, but an increasing number of countries such as Australia, New Zealand, the United States, Chile, Argentina, and South Africa can also produce premium quality wine from Chardonnay. Chenin Blanc is very acidic and can be vinified in a number of different styles, from dry to sweet and from sparkling to fortified. The classic region of production is the Loire Valley in France, and one other famous country for premium Chenin Blanc is South Africa. Riesling is a fruity and floral aromatic variety that can develop different kind of flavors depending

on the climate of the region in which it is grown. It can be used to produce dry wines as well as sweet wines. Germany and France (Alsace) are the classic regions of production, while Austria, Australia, and New Zealand are the other most famous countries able to produce prime quality Riesling. Sauvignon Blanc is an aromatic variety and produces usually dry wines with high acidity, medium body and display aromas of green fruit and vegetation. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire Valley of France are the two classic regions of production. Nowadays, New Zealand, Australia, and Chile can also produce premium Sauvignon Blanc. But Sauvignon Blanc can also be used to produce sweet wines. In Sauterne, it is added to Sémillon to provide fruit flavors but also and primarily acidity, which is needed to balance the sweetness of the wine. Nowadays, Chile, France, and Australia are the main countries cultivating Sémillon.

Black Grapes

Cabernet Sauvignon has thick skins that generate deeply colored wines with lots of tannin, acidity, and black fruits flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon is often blended with Merlot, which is the perfect match, providing alcohol and structure, and minimizing the astringent character of Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot can develop flavors of black or red fruits depending on the climate where it is grown. In Bordeaux, the blend of these two grapes is sometimes completed by Cabernet Franc and,

sometimes, Petit Verdot. Pinot Noir has thin skins, is difficult to grow and produces a delicate wine with light color and low to medium levels of tannins. It usually displays flavors of red fruits with sometimes vegetal or animal traces. Burgundy is the classic region of production for Pinot Noir, while Central Otago in New Zealand and Oregon in North America are the other most famous premium regions. Pinot Noir is also one of the three main grape varieties that are used to produce Champagne. Syrah, called Shiraz in Australia, is made of thick skins like the Cabernet Sauvignon. It produces full-bodied deeply colored wines with medium or high levels of tannins and medium acidity. It displays black fruit and chocolate flavors with hints of spices. Syrah is often blended with Grenache, which is the third most widely planted black grape variety worldwide. It has large berries with thin skins, low acidity and high levels of sugar. It produces light colored but full-bodied wine with red fruit flavors. Grenache is the main grape variety of Southern Rhône, while Syrah is the only black grape variety accepted in Northern Rhône. Apart from France, many other countries now produce wines from these two grapes, the most famous ones being Australia for Shiraz and Spain for Grenache. Wine education is a combination of reading and tasting. If the theoretical part is important, the opportunity to taste wine is even more essential, and the combination of both will definitely allow you to explore the world of wine with confidence.

JANUARY 2015 | 77

TRAVEL

DIRECTORY HOTELS

BANGKOK Amari Boulevard (●2 Soi 5 Sukhumvit Rd (Nana Bts), 02 255 2930, www.amari.com/ boulevard)

Hilton Sukhumvit (●11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Phrom Phong BTS), 02 620 6666, www.hilton.com)w

Radisson Suites (●23/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 13 (Asok BTS), 02 645 4999, www.radisson. com/bangkokth_sukhumvit)

Amari Don Muang Airport (●333 Chert Wudthakas Rd, Don Muang, 02 566 1020, www.amari.com/donmuang)

Holiday Inn Silom (●981 Silom Rd (Surasak BTS), 02 238 4300, www. holidayinnsilom.com)

Rembrandt Hotel (●19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (Asok BTS), 02 261 7100, www. rembrandtbkk.com)

Amari Watergate (●847 Petchburi Rd 02 653 9000, 02 653 9101/8, www.amari. com/watergate)

Muse Hotel (●55/555 Langsuan Rd (Ploenchit BTS), 02 630 4000, www. homusebangkok.com)

Renaissance Hotel (●518/8 Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS), 02 125 5000, www.renhos. com/bangkok)

Anantara Bangkok Resort & Spa (●257 Charoennakorn Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS To ho’s ferry), 02 476 0022, www.bangkokriverside.anantara.com)

Imperial Queen’s Park (●199 sukhumvit Soi 22 (Phrom Phong BTS), 02 261 9000, www.imperialhos.com/queenspark)

Royal Orchid Sheraton (●2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, Siphya, 02 266 0123, www. royalotchidsheraton.com)

Intercontinental Bangkok (●9743 Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS), 02 656 0444, www.intercontinental.com)

Shangri-La, The (●89 Charoen Krung Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS), 02 236 7777, www. shangri-la.com)

JW Marriott Bangkok (●4 Sukhumvit Soi 2 (Ploenchit BTs), 02 656 7700, www.marriot. com/bkkdt)

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (●250 Sukhumvit Rd (Asoke BTS), 02 649 8888, www.starwoodhos.com/bangkok)

Landmark Bangkok (●138 Sukhumvit Rd (Nana BTS), 02 254 0404, www. landmarkbangkok.com)

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok(●991/9 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), 02 162 9000, www. kempinski.com)

Fenix, Le (●33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS), 02 305 4000, www.lefenix-sukhumvit. com)

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit (●189 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 13-15 (Nana BTS), 02 126 9999 www.sofi.com)

Lebua At State Tower 1 (●055 Silom Rd (Surasak BTS), 02 624 9999, www.lebua. com/bangkok/)

Sofitel So Bangkok (●2 North Sathorn Road (Lumpini MRT), 02 624 0000)

Atrium Bangkok Hotel (●1880 New Petchburi Rd, Bangkapi, Huay Kwang, 02 718 2000-1, www.atriumbangkok.com) Banyan Tree Bangkok (●21/100 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT), 02 679 1200, www.banyantree.com) Centara Grand At Centralworld (● 999/99 Rama 1 Rd (Chidlom BTS), 02 100 1234, www.centralhoresorts.com) Centara Grand At Central Plaza Ladprao (●1695 Phaholyothin Road, Chatuchak, 02 541 1234) Conrad Bangkok All Seasons Place (●87 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS), 02 690 9999, www.conradho.com) Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park (●952 Rama Iv Rd (Sala Daeng MRT), 02 632 9000, www.crownplazabkkk.com) Davis Bangkok, The (●88 Sukhumvit 24 (Phrom Phong BTS), 02 260 8000, www. davisbangkok.net) Dream Ho (●10 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (Asoke Sala Daeng Sala Daeng BTS), 02 254 8500, www.dreambkk.com) Dusit Thani, The (●946 Rama Iv Rd (Sala Daeng BTS), 02 200 9000, www.dusit.com)

Millennium Hilton (●123 Charoennakorn Rd (boat shuttle from Saphan Taksin BTS), 02 422 2000, www.bangkok.hilton.com) Metropolitan, The (●27 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT), 02 625 3333, www. metropolitan.com.bz) Novo (●392/44 Siam Square (Siam BTS) 02-209-8888, www.novobkk.com Oriental Mandarin, The (●48 Oriental Ave. (Saphan Taksin BTS to ho ferry), 02 659 9000, www.mandarinoriental.com)

Eugenia, The (●267 Sukhumvit Soi 3, 02 259 9011/7, www.theeugenia.com)

Okura Prestige, The (●57 Wireless Rd (Phloen Chit BTS), 02 687 9000, www. okurabangkok.com)

Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn (●33/1 South Sathorn Road (Surasak BTS), 02 210 8100, www.eastinbangkokho.com)

Pathumwan Princess (●444 Phayathai Rd (National Stadium BTS), 02 216 3700, www. dusit.com)

Four Seasons Bangkok (●155 Ratchadamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS), 02 126 8866, www. fourseasons.com/bangkok)

Peninsula Bangkok (●333 Charoennakorn Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS to ho ferry), 02 861 2888, www.bangkok.peninsula.com)

Four Points By Sheraton (●Sukhumvit Soi 15 (Nana BTS), 02 309 3000, www. starwoodhos.com)

Plaza Athenee Hotel (●61 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS), 02 650 8800, www.hoplaza-athenee.com)

Grand Hyatt Erawan (●494 Ratchadamri Rd (Chidlom BTS), 02 254 1234, www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com)

Pullman Silom Hotel G (●188 Silom Rd (Chong Nonsi BTS), 02 238 1991/99, www. pullmanbangkokhog.com)

LOOKEAST | DIRECTORY

Sukhothai Bangkok, The (●13/3 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT), 02 344 8888, www.sukothai.com) Swiss Hotel (●2 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS), 02 253 0123, www.bangkok-nailertpark.swissho.com) Swiss Lodge (●3 Convent Rd (Sala Daeng BTS), 02 233 5345, www.swisslodge.com) ST Regis Bangkok (●159 Rajdamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS), 02 207 7777, www. starwoodhos.com) Unico Premier Metrolink (●57 AsokeDindaeng Rd (Petchaburi MRT), 02 652 9000, www.unicopremiermetrolink.com) Vie Hotel Bangkok (●117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd (Phayathai BTS), 02 309 3939, www. viehobangkok.com) Westin Grande Sukhumvit (●259 Sukhumvit Rd (Asok BTS), 02 207 8000, www.westin.com/bangkok) Windsor Suites Hotel (●8-10 Sukhumvit Soi 20 (Asok BTS), 02 262 1234, www. windsorsuitesho.com) PATTAYA Amari Orchid (●Pattaya beach Rd, 038 418 418, www.amari.com)

Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya (●277 Moo 5, 038 301 234, www. centarahosresorts.com)

Ping Nakara Boutique Hotel & Spa (●135/9 Charoen Prathet Road, Amphur Muang, Chiang Mai 50100, 053 252 999)

Centara Grand Residence Pattaya (● Soi Na Jomtien 6, Moo 1, Jomtien Beach, Chonburi, 038 706 407, www.cgrpattaya.com)

Rachamankha (●6 Rachamankha 9, T Phra Singh, 053 904 111, 053 814 521, www.rachamankha)

Cape Dara Resort (●256 Dara beach, Soi 20, Pattaya-Naklua Rd, 038 933 888)

Ratilanna Riverside Spa Resort (● 33 Chang Klan Rd, 053 999 333, www.ratilnnachiangmai.com)

Dusit Thani (●240/2 Pattaya beach Rd , 038 425 611/7, www.dusit.com) Garden Cliff Resort & Spa (●220/2 Moo 5, Soi Naklua 16, 038 259 333, www. gardencliffpattaya.com) Hilton Pattaya Hotel (●333/101 Moo 9, 038 253 000, www.hilton.com ) Hard Rock Hotel (●429 Moo 9, Pattaya beach Rd, 038 428 755/9, www.hardrockhos.net)

Angsana Laguna (●10 moo 4 Srisoonthorn Rd, 076 324 101, www.lagunaphuket.com) Deevana Patong Resort & Spa (●43/2 Rai-u-Thid 200 Pee Rd, 076 341 414/5, www.deevanaphuket.com) Dusit Thani Laguna (●390 Moo 1, Srisoontorn Rd, 076 362 999, dusitthanilagunaphuket.dusit.com

Royal Princess (● 112 Chang Klan Road Chiang Mai 50100, 053 253 900)

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa (●231 Moo 3, Mai Khao, 076 338 000 ext 35252, www.marriott.com)

Shangri-La (●89/8 Changklan Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai 50100, 053 253 888)

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa (●41/12 Moo 3, Khuk Khak, 076 584 888, www.marriott.com)

Tamarind Village (●50/1 Rajdamnoen Road, Tambon Sri Pum Amphoe Muang, Chiang Mai 50200, 053 418 896)

Kantary Beach Hotel Villas And Suites (●64, 65 Moo2, Kukkak, 076 584 700, www.kantarycollection.com) Méridien Phuket Beach, Le (●29 Soi Karon Nui, 076 370 100, www.lemeridien.com)

Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa (●218/24 Pattaya beach Rd, 038 412 120, www. marriottos.com)

HUA HIN Cape Nidhra Hotel (●97/2 Petchkasem Rd, 032 516 600, www.capenidhra.com)

Royal Cliff Hotel (●353 Phra Tamnak Rd, Pattaya, 038 250 421, www.royalcliff.com)

Dusit Thani (●1349 Petchkasem Rd, 032 520 009, www.dusit.com

Méridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort, Le (●9/9 Moo 1 Tambol Kuk Kak, 076 427 500, www.starwoodhos.com/ lemeridien)

Sheraton Pattaya Resort (●37 Phra Tamnak Rd, 038 259 888, www.sheraton. com/pattaya/com)

Hotel De La Paix (●115 Moo 7, Tambol Bangkao, Amphur ChaAm, Phetburi 76120, 032 709 555)

Kantary Bay Ho, The (●31/11 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd, 076 391 514, www.kantarybay-phuket.com)

Zign, The (●555/65 Moo 5, 12 Naklua Rd, 038 909 800/20, www.thezignho.com)

Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa (●1573 Petchkasem Rd, Cha-Am, Petchaburi, 032 708 000, www.starwoodhos.com/sheraton/ huahin)

Sri Panwa (●88 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Tambon Vichit Muang, Panwa, Phuket 83000 076 371 000)

CHIANG MAI 137 Pillars House 2 Soi 1 Nawatgate Road Chiang Mai 50000 053 247 788 Anantara Chiang Mai Resort & Spa (●123-123/1 Charoen Prathet Rd, 053 253 333, www.ghm.hos.com)

KOH SAMUI Amari Palm Reef Resort (●Chaweng beach road, 077 422 015/19, www.amari.com) Centara Grand Beach Resort (●38/2 Moo 3, Bophut, Chaweng beach,077 230 500, www.centralhosresorts.com)

Dusit D2 (●100 Chang Klan Road Amphur Muang, 50100, 053 999 999)

Four Seasons Koh Samui (●219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077 243 000)

Four Seasons Ho Chiang Mai (●Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road 50180, 053 298 181)

Santiburi Resort (●12/12 Moo 1, Maennam, 077 425 031/5, www.santiburi.com)

Furama (●54 Huay Keaw Road, Muang, Chiang Mai 50300, 053 415 222)

The Library (●14/1 Moo 2 Chaweng Beach, Bo Phut, 077 422 767-8)

Le Meridien (●108 Chang Klan Road, Tambol Chang Klan, Amphur Muang, Chiang Mai 50100 053 253 666) Dhara Devi Chiang Mai (●51/4 Chiang Mai, Sankampaeng Road Moo 1 T. Tasala A. Muang, 053 888 888)

Tongsai Bay Cottages & Hotel (●84 Moo 5, Bophut, 077 245 480, www.tongsaibay.co.th) PHUKET Amanpuri Phuket (●118 Moo 3 Srissunthorn, Phuket, 076 324 333) Amari Coral Beach (●2 Meun Ngern Rd, 076 340 106/14, www.amari.com )

The Naka Island (●32 Moo 5, Tambol Paklok, Amphur Thalang, Naka Yai Island, 076 371 400) Westin Hotel And Resorts (●21/4 Moo 1 T. Rasada A. Muang , 076 335 600) KRABI Amari Vogue Resort (●149 Moo 3 Tambol Nongtalay, 075 607 777, www.amari.com/vogue) Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas (●420/22 Moo 2 Aonang Ao Nang, 075 661 027, www.centralhoetlresorts.com) Sheraton Krabi (●155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Muang, 075 628 000) Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort (●Klong Muang beach, 075 627 800, www.sofi.com/6184) KOH CHANG Amari Emerald Cove Resort Koh Chang (●88/8 Moo 4, 039 552 000, www.amari.com/emeraldcove ) JANUARY 2015 | 79

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