Lookeast June 2014 by Lookeast Magazine

LIFESTYLE

HOTELS

DINING

NIGHTLIFE

SHOPPING

EVENTS

PERSONALITIES

ART

CULTURE

SPAS

Fashion

EST. 1971

JUNE ISSN 0857-1139

TRAVEL

JUNE 2014

PATTAYA Why Go, What to See, What to Do

MEDITATION

Retreats in Thailand

JUNE 2014 VOL.43 NO.6

Networking for the Beautiful People

MALAYSIA:

A Day—and Night—Out on Penang

New Latitude Wines

Bangkok Shopping Guide www.lookeastmagazine.com

thb100

WHAT'S INSIDE JUNE

JUNE 2014 CALENDAR 8 44 58 68 70

What’s On Hotel Deals Spa Deals Dining Specials Bar Specials

TRAVEL

14 Culture: Ayutthaya Klongs Features: 18 Meditation Retreats in Thailand Checking In: 24 Crowne Plaza Lumpini Bangkok 26 My Favorite Place: Bangkok, by Sarah ChangChalermkittichai 28 Malaysia: A Day—and Night—Out on Penang 34 Cover story: Pattaya Everything for Everyone 38 Mini Guide 43 Lookeast’s Picks of the Month 48 Travel News

LIFESTYLE

50 2

Lookeast | WHAT'S INSIDE

Shopping: 50 Shopping in Bangkok 54 Hipster Shopping at Talad Rot Fai 56The Hedonist: Networking for the Beautiful People 59Wellness: Omroom

WINE&DINE

Restaurants: 60 The District Grill Room & Bar 62 Le Du Wine Bar + Restaurant 64 Benjarong 66 News: Eggceptional! Chiang Rai’s Hilltribe Organic Eggs 71 The Oenophile: New Latitude Wines

travel

EDITOR'S LETTER

You Love It and We Know It

Photo by Alisa Hubert Apparel by Club 21/Calvin Klein Hair and makeup by Usani Korsoongsak Lighting by Thanyarat Phumpaka

t’s again that time of the year that many of you have been waiting for: the Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2014, which starts June 15 and ends August 15, with discounts of up to 80 percent in various outlets throughout the country. We know you love shopping, so in this issue of Lookeast we are giving you the ultimate list of places in which to satisfy your shopaholic instincts in Bangkok. We are also taking you to our featured city of the month, Pattaya, not only because it’s a fantastic spot to enjoy everything from sightseeing to watersports and from culinary holidays to a vibrant nightlife, but also because it’s home to Central Festival Pattaya Beach, which happens to be Asia’s largest beachfront lifestyle shopping complex. This month we will also take you on a tour to the ancient and fascinating Ayutthaya klongs; we will explore everything you need to know about meditation retreats in Thailand; and,

moving farther south, we’ll take you to Penang island, which we discovered to be just one of many examples of M alaysian cities that offer vast cultural options, from UNESCO heritage sites to street art and more. We are honored to have restaurateur— also the wife of chef Ian Kittichai—Sarah Chang-Chalermkittichai collaborating with Lookeast this month, as she gave us amazing tips on the places you can’t miss for a delightful dining experience in Bangkok. While The Hedonist this month will tell you where the beautiful people are networking these days, The Oenophile will explain that denomination you might’ve heard of but aren’t sure what it’s about: new latitude wines. It’s hot in Thailand these days, so beat the heat with this issue while shopping in one of the many AC-cooled options offered in the capital and beyond, or while staying outdoors by the beach or a pool in Pattaya, chilling and reading Lookeast.

Best,

Anita Zaror Editor-in-Chief

FRONT COVER Royal Cliff Hotels Group

Lookeast | EDITORIAL

EDITORIAL EDITOR'S NOTE

Dave Stamboulis A Greek-American travel writer and professional photographer based in Bangkok. His photos are represented by Getty Images and Alamy, and he is a writer for Fodor’s guidebook to Thailand and Laos, as well as for USA Today’s “Bangkok Expert” travel website. Federico Brandi An international affairs specialist with focus on ASEAN countries, Federico fell in love with Thailand and lives in Bangkok after working in external affairs, policy analysis, and development projects in Italy, Belgium, Switzerland, Malaysia, and East Timor. Harold Stephens The author of 32 books and thousands of newspaper and magazine stories, Harold Stephens began writing travel and adventure stories for Lookeast in 1974. He worked with the Bangkok Post for 14 years and is a travel correspondent for Thai Airways. Kit Yeng Chan Kit is a freelance photographer and licensed tour guide in Penang, Malaysia. She has traveled and shot independently in all corners of Asia and beyond. Her pictures have appeared in Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Lookeast, and Penang Monthly, among others.

Laurence Civil “Life is all about taste and style” are Laurence’s words to live by. Twenty-three years working for a British airline gave him his passion for food, wine, and travel, and a visit to China in the ’80s inspired his earlier stories. His articles have been published in Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Bangkok since 1994. Sarah Chang-Chalermkittichai French-Canadian-Chinese-American who lives in Bangkok when not traveling for work or pleasure. She is a former financial industry professional who found her true calling as a restaurateur, author, and food and beverage consultant after meeting her husband, chef Ian Kittichai. Marco Ferrarese Overland-obsessed travel writer and metalpunk guitarist who visited 50 countries before setting up base in Penang. He freelances for several international publications, focusing on Southeast Asian travel and culture. His debut novel “Nazi Goreng” is a quirky subcultural thriller set in Penang. Follow him @monkeyrockworld

Lookeast | EDITORIAL

Publisher Sid Sehgal sid@thesehgalgroup.com Editor-in-Chief Anita Zaror editor@lookeastmagazine.com Editorial Assistant Coco Lavender edassistant@lookeastmagazine.com Editorial Consultant Melanie Blake Art Director Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Photographer Alisa Hubert Production Director Apichart Boontid Marketing Executive Ankita Malhotra ankita@thesehgalgroup.com PR Consultant Earth Saisawang Executive Assistant to Chairman Acharin Suthisawad acharin@thesehgalgroup.com Executive Assistant to CEO Panitkan Apiratanapimonchai panitkan@thesehgalgroup.com President Ravi Sehgal Group Publishing Director Asha Narula Sehgal Executive Director Gaurav Sehgal

EST. 1971

Chris Mayya After 12 years in a monastery in California, Chris decided to move to Thailand to explore further his interests in Buddhist meditation. His blog www.chrismayya.blogspot. com and other publications are dedicated to effectively coping with common life issues.

EST. 1971

travel

is published monthly by: Advertising & Media Consultants Co., Ltd. Richmond Office Building 18th floor 75/65 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Tel: + 66 2 204 2982 Fax: + 66 2 204 2984 Email: info@lookeastmagazine.com Web: www.lookeastmagazine.com Views and opinions expressed by individual writers and contributors in the articles herein, do not necessarily reflect those of Lookeast magazine or of Advertising Media Consultants Co., Ltd. All prices are correct at the time of going to press, but are subject to change. Reproduction in whole or part without written consent from Lookeast is strictly forbidden.

WHAT'S ON JUNE

Ambassador Hotel Bangkok

Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok

OR'S EDITIC K P

Wedding Fair 2014

What: Discover over 30 hotels and more than 100 presentations for outstanding weddings and luxurious honeymoons at the Wedding Fair 2014. For example, Ambassador Hotel Bangkok will present an exclusive offer for every couple who books a wedding package during the wedding fair, including a romantic one-night stay at the Ambassador Honeymoon Suite inclusive of buffet breakfast, 20–50% discount on “Bride & Groom Treatment Package” at The Ambassador Spa, free membership at the Health Centre, cocktail menu special prices starting at THB 750 net per person, and Chinese set menu starting at THB 9,000 net per table for 10 people. When: June 5 –8, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Where: Plenary Hall 1–3, Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre; Ambassador Hotel Bangkok, booth P52 How much: Varies More info: www.thaiweddingfair.com, 02 254 0444 ext. 1620, bq1bkk@amtel.co.th

Opening of Whisgars Ploenchit

What: Bangkok receives its second Whisgars location in early June 2014, with a New York-inspired speakeasy concept premier whisky and cigar bar at Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit. ChindAsia Capital Partners Limited, the investment group behind the unique Whisgars brand, launched the first Whisgars bar on Sukhumvit Soi 23 last year. Following its popularity and strong revenue performance in its first year of operation, ChindAsia will open Whisgars Ploenchit as a franchised outlet. The new venue will carry the full range of Whisgars’ whiskies and cigars. Several other Whisgars outlets will be opened in the next 18 months. When: Early June 2014 Where: Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit How much: Varies More info: www.chindasia.com

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

6th Asian Ministerial Conference on Disaster Risk Reduction

What: Ministers of 63 countries will gather in a conference in Bangkok to discuss sustainable development, climate change, disaster risk reduction integration. There will be panel discussions, cultural shows, and a video clip competition. Thailand is holding this conference for the first time; the biennial conference was earlier held in India, China Korea, Malaysia, and Indonesia. When: June 22–26 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Where: Grand Centara Bangkok, Central World (●999/99 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan) How much: Free More info: 6thamcdrr-thailand.net

Great Value Bento Set at The Eatery

What: Grab a Lunch Bento Set featuring a variety of Japanese dishes plus dessert at The Eatery, Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok. The Bento Box Menu is available in four options: Pork Tonkatsu, breaded fried pork with Japanese barbecue sauce, steamed rice, and cheese cake; Beef Yakitori, skewered beef, grilled vegetables and teriyaki sauce, garlic fried rice, and sliced fresh fruits; Hibachi Chicken, sautéed chicken, zucchini and mushrooms, garlic fried rice, and carrot cake; Salmon Teriyaki, salmon teriyaki, steamed rice, and sliced fresh fruits. All sets are served with miso soup and house salad. When: Ongoing, daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Where: The Eatery, Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15 How much: THB 450 net per set More info: 02 309 3201, fbadmin. sukhumvit15@fourpoints.com

Lookeast’s Survey

Win a Stay at Grand Mercure Phuket Patong! In order to always bring the very best to you in every issue of Lookeast magazine, we invite you to share with us your opinions and feedback by answering our online survey. If you participate, you might be the winner of a complimentary night stay including breakfast at Grand Mercure Phuket Patong! What: Visit our Facebook page and look for Lookeast’s annual survey. Participate When: From now until June 26 Where: www.surveymonkey.com/s/ Q6L2HQK How much: Free More info: www.facebook.com/ LookeastMag

WHAT'S ON JUNE

SHOW REVIEW

Siam Niramit, A Journey to the Enchanted Kingdom of Siam Siam Niramit (●Bangkok: 02 649 9222, reservation@siamniramit.com; Phuket 76 335 000, reservationphuket@siamniramit.com; www. siamniramit.com) is not just a must-see show, but also a cultural complex that gives visitors a unique chance to learn about and experience Thai history, culture, and arts in one place. The Siam Niramit show takes place on a gigantic stage that holds a place in the “Guinness Book of World Records.” It takes 100 performers, 500 costumes, spectacular set designs, and state-of-the-art special effects technology to create a “world-class performance of Thailand’s arts and cultural heritage” that will take your breath away. The 80-minute performance starts with a journey back in time to the Ancient Kingdom of Lanna in the North, followed by a trip to the South Seas together with traders from overseas. The audience witnesses the Legacy of Khmer Civilization, who lived in Issan in Northeast Thailand. From there the show heads to the Central Plains to Ayutthaya, the Mighty Capital. The second act, “Journey beyond Imagination,” takes the audience through the Fiery Hell, ruled by Phrayom, to the Mystical Forest of Himapaan, populated by magical creatures, to the Blissful Heaven, where Lord Indra, the God of Gods, presides atop Mount Phrasumera at the center of the universe. The third and final act of the show depicts joyous festivals that take place in Thailand throughout the year. Although the show is the highlight of the evening, spectators should definitely arrive to the cultural center before the show starts to appreciate all the facilities it has to offer. The doors of the cultural center open at 5:30 p.m. and spectators are invited to visit a village of four regions of Thailand to learn about traditional Thai lifestyle, arts, and crafts. They can enjoy elephant feeding and rides, relax with the traditional Thai massage, and buy handicrafts from all regions of Thailand. Be sure to savor the Thai-Western buffet dinner before the outdoor pre-show entertainment with traditional Thai music and dance. The show won the prestigious Thailand Tourism Award in 2008 and 2010 for a reason, and it’s not to be missed. The Siam Niramit experience is available daily in both Bangkok and Phuket.

Kafka Film Fest

What: From May 2014, and for just three months, Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok has introduced a brand new dining concept in the Parichart Court, the PopUp Charcuterie Room. The new Pop-Up will be the place to stop for a glass of wine or two enjoyed alongside the best cold cuts from around the world. With a wide selection of hams, salamis, chorizo, saucisson, speck and much more, served in a casual, cozy environment. Wines will be selected from different regions around the world to pair well with the day’s charcuterie selection, with an extensive selection available both by the glass and the bottle. When: Monday to Saturday from 5 p.m. onward Where: Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok How much: Varies More info: (02) 126 8866

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok

Popping Up at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok

Siam Niramit

by Maia Kara

What: In cooperation with the Embassies of the Federal Republic of Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and the Czech Republic, the Goethe-Institut Thailand will host a three-day Festival to remember Franz Kafka on the occasion of his 90th death anniversary. The festival will feature an exhibition, selected film screenings as well as a scenic reading and a skit. Professor Thanomnuan O’charoen, from the German Department, Faculty of Arts, Chulalongkorn University, will give a keynote speech on the Kafka-perception in Thailand on the opening day. When: June 3–5, opening ceremony June 3 at 6 p.m. Where: Auditorium, Goethe-Institut Auditorium How much: Free More info: www.goethe.de

The Magic of the Musicals

What: Back by popular demand, The New Broadway Company will once again take the stage at the St. Regis Bangkok with some of Broadway’s biggest hit musicals all this year, and a medley of stage favorites including CATS, Fiddler on the Roof, My Fair Lady, Chicago and much more. During June, don’t miss the presentation of Miss Saigon. When: June 27 at 8:30 p.m. Where: St. Regis Bangkok How much: THB 1,650++ including tapas and unlimited white, red, and sparkling wine, and selected cocktails More info: 02 207 7777, fb.bangkok@ stregis.com, www.stregisbangkok.com

Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

ThaiCraft Fair

The New Broadway Company

WHAT'S ON JUNE

ThaiCraft Fair

What: For some, a new school year is beginning. For others, the long summer vacation lies ahead. But, from start to finish, there are always good reasons for giving and receiving, and at ThaiCraft, you can do both by supporting fifty artisan groups nationwide while having fun buying accessories, textiles, home decor, baskets cosmetics, toys, and much more. When: June 7, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Where: Jasmine City Building, basement bloor, Sukhumvit Rd, at the entrance of Soi 23, BTS Asok station exit 3, MRT Sukhumvit station exit 2 How much: Free entrance More info: www.thaicraft.org

EVENT PREVIEW

Four Regions of Thailand at InAzia Restaurant

What: Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa invites you to join a culinary journey across Thailand. The chefs at InAzia, its Pan-Asian specialty restaurant, have prepared traditional dishes from four different regions, using typical spices and ingredients of each distinctive cuisine. From northern style pork curry to marinated and grilled chicken from the south, and black mussels cooked in red curry with betel leaves from the central region to steamed ruby fish with spicy sauce from the East. When: Daily from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Where: InAzia, 1st floor, Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa How much: Varies More info: 032 708 000 ext. 4303

Discovering Thai Spirit Houses and Invoking Land Guardians by Pandit Bhikkhu English speakers are invited to a very special event on Monday, June 16, explaining everything you didn’t know about Thai spirit houses. The event is free of charge at the Neilson Hays Library (●195 Surawong Road, Silom, Bangkok, BTS Chong Nonsi or Sala Daeng). You can see these tiny spirit houses everywhere, yet they are a total mystery to most people. Wonderful icons of spiritual fusion, they blend ancient nature worship, Hindu rituals, and Buddhist faith. On this special evening, visiting expert Marisa Cranfill Young will reveal to us the hidden layers of deep meaning within the spirit house tradition through a vivid explanation of the symbols, myths, and rituals that Thais continue to adapt to modern lifestyles. She will show what the spirit houses mean to Thais and their beliefs. Marisa Cranfill Young has lived and studied in Thailand and Asia for more than 16 years. She is fluent in Thai and ran a large and successful business exporting highend Thai silk fashion to the U.S. under the label Marisa Baratelli. In stark contrast to all this glamour, she yearned to develop the more personal, spiritual side of life. Young became a yoga, Qi Gong, and Vipassana meditation teacher, and is currently writing a novel about the Thai spirit house tradition. She is one of only a couple of Westerners who have studied the Thai spirit house and shaman tradition in depth. For more info and a growing library of short videos on local Thai shrines, visit www.spirithouseconnection.com. There is no need to book. Details on this event, including a map and directions, are on www.littlebang.org.

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

La Fête de la Musique

What: Created in France in 1982, La Fête de la Musique is a worldwide not-to-miss event. The Bangkok edition will rise over the city from the 17th floor of ZEN World, at Zense, offering a unique view of the Thai capital. For one dazzling evening, La Fête de la Musique brings together Thai bands and the French duo Systaime/Kantes, an explosive and corrosive VJ and DJ mix, combining electronic music and live video projections. When: June 6 from 8 p.m. onward Where: ZEN World, at Zense How much: THB 500 (including two drinks) More info: www.lafete-bangkok.com

The Prime inister s Business Enterprise Award

Harold Stephens

TRAVEL CULTURE

EXPLORING THE KLONGS OF AYUTTHAYA Without canals, the history of Thailand would have been much different and Bangkok would not have been dubbed “Venice of the East.” by Harold Stephens

e hear about the klongs, or canals, that make up the many waterways of Bangkok, but seldom is there mention of the klongs of Ayutthaya. Yet look at a map of Ayutthaya (not a map of the old city, but an up-to-date one) and the surrounding area as it is today. You’ll be surprised to discover that Ayutthaya looks like a gigantic cartwheel with dozens of small klongs radiating out from it, making the city an actual hub. There are so many klongs that it’s impossible to determine where the Chao Phraya River enters the city and where it departs. No wonder the Burmese had a tough time taking Ayutthaya in 1767. History books don’t tell the story, but I would imagine that more soldiers in the invading

Lookeast | TRAVEL

army got lost in the maze of canals than reached the wall. But we know that the Burmese did reach the wall, and what resulted was that Ayutthaya was destroyed and fell into ruin. But ruins are what interest travelers today. With eco-tourism the objective, exploring the klongs of Ayutthaya adds another dimension to travel. Several new tour companies now offer klong tours of the old capital. Thais began digging klongs when their history first began, but it was during the Ayutthaya period when international trade increased that the need to shorten transport distances between the capital and the sea was recognized. Between 1522 and 1722, the monarchs dug six major klongs, many of which eventually not

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T. +66 2632 9000 F. +66 2632 9001 www.facebook.com/crowneplazabangkok

Harold Stephens

only shortened travel on the river but also became the main streams. In 1522, King Chairachathirat of Ayutthaya commanded that a series of new klongs be dug around the capital, not only to facilitate trade but also to serve as a perimeter of defense. There’s no doubt that klongs were once of vital importance to Ayutthaya. It was only after Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese that they began to decline, and the last blow came when King Taksin moved the capital downriver to Thonburi, across from present-day Bangkok. Efforts have been made to dredge many Ayutthaya klongs, and they are beginning to see service once again. However, the difficulty of negotiating these klongs is due not to their shallowness but to the many small bridges and walkways that span the klongs. Some bridges are merely foot walks, but nevertheless, they are a hindrance to klong traffic. A different type of boat has to be used from those we see downriver around Thornburg and Bangkok. Unlike the converted rice barges that operate on the river and on klongs below Ayutthaya, with their top-heavy decks high above water line, the klong boats of Ayutthaya are shallow draft with low superstructure. To successfully do canal tours, boats have to be able to slip beneath the bridges at high water. At the south end of the city, at the foot of the old wall and gate that have been refurbished, there are klong boats for hire. The site at this spot is one of the historical landmarks of Thailand. In my book “For the Love of Siam” I tell how it was here that trading boats from every nation in the world came upriver to unload their wares. I like to imagine, when I stand at the old gate and look down the Chao Phraya River, that one time in the center of the river, as

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Harold Stephens

TRAVEL CULTURE

many as 200 ships waited in line to unload. Ayutthaya was at one time the greatest cities of the world, greater even than Venice and Genoa, and it was here, where you rent your boat, that it all began. The boats for hire are flat-bottom boats with a canopy above for protection from the sun or from sudden rain showers that may occur. A trip completely around the island of Ayutthaya will cost about THB 700 and will take about three or for hours. It’s a delightful trip, and you can make it as leisurely as you want, or if you wish, as rapidly as you want. There are delightful little restaurants on the klongs, and at any one of these the boat will wait while you go ashore to dine. The other possibility is to pack your lunch and have a picnic aboard. This will make an interesting family adventure and outing.

Many of the klongs in Thailand, aside from serving as a means of transportation, became urban dwellings. By 1900, both sides of the Chao Phraya River and all the klongs were floating habitations, shelters resting on rafts of bamboo moored to the shores, occupied by two, three, and four families each. Today the picture has changed. Boat families live aboard their barges, as they have done from one generation to another, but for others municipal law prohibits living aboard any vessel or raft on the river. Now along the banks of the klongs you can see some costly homes. Without klongs, the history of old Siam and modern Thailand would have been much different, and Bangkok would not have been dubbed “Venice of the East.”

The More The Merrier, over the rooftop 2 glasses for only THB 300

TRAVEL FEATURE

Meditation Retreats in Thailand Understanding what they are about, where to practice, and how to behave

Chris Mayya

by Chris Mayya

Lookeast | TRAVEL

here’s more to the Land of Smiles than delicious pad thai and mango sticky rice, the rejuvenating hot springs, and Thai massages. Thailand is the one of the countries where Buddhism has been practiced for hundreds of years. If you are like most tourists, then your exposure to this facet of Thailand may end with just a visit to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha or, at the most, it will consist of marveling at the architecture of some of the famous Buddhist temples on your tour. But if you have an interest in meditation, or feel an impulse to explore Thai Buddhism more deeply and with an open mind, then you can discover the real heart of Thailand. A sojourn at one of the many meditation retreats found throughout the country is actually a journey—into the profound hidden depths of one’s own mind; the gaining of direct and personal insights into life. Hidden beneath the Thai and Pali terms and the stories and experiences of celebrity-like monks is a wealth of meditative practices that are available for all to partake of, and experiment with. Surprisingly, the core of these teachings and practices is free from all forms of cultural, religious, and sectarian beliefs (even the self-proclaimed atheist and writer Sam Harris recently has been recommending this form of meditation to his followers). This unique form of meditation is called vipassana, translated broadly as “seeing things as they really are.” Vipassana is a Pali word. You can find a lot more information about it on the Internet, but here are some basic concepts based on its practice in Thailand.

TRAVEL FEATURE

Understanding Vipassana Meditation

Chris Mayya

One of the common myths about meditation in general is that you have to find a secluded spot, sit in a certain rigid posture with eyes shut, and disconnect from your immediate environment by using the power of concentration. While this may be true to some extent, these are not prerequisites for beginners and, certainly, not the goal of even advanced vipassana practitioners. At most of the vipassana meditation temples and centers in Thailand, meditation is taught in a way where one cultivates the faculty of awareness as opposed to concentration. At these locations, it is common to see retreatants walking, eating, and performing other everyday activities in a “mindful” manner. Seated meditation is practiced for only short but frequent periods of a half or a full hour and intermittently alternated with walking meditation. This helps to cultivate the quality of mindful awareness in all of one’s daily activities, thus making this form of meditation more popular in recent years among those living in busy societies.

Chris Mayya

Retreats in Thailand

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Similar to certain Western countries, Thai culture is rooted strongly in its religious practices, and certain norms and behavior are inculcated in every Thai person beginning in childhood. But faith in Buddhism is not something that foreigners need to embrace blindly before testing out for oneself the various meditative practices. Thereby most of the retreats/ monasteries welcome participants with no previous meditation experience at all. There are some monasteries/temples, however, which do not allow foreigners to stay and practice at their premises, mainly because of the communication challenges. But with increasing demand among foreign visitors, and with an earnest desire among the monks to teach them, more and more centers are conducting special English/ foreign language programs with the help of translators.

Code of Conduct

Although most of these retreat centers will welcome you even if you are not a Buddhist, they will however expect you to follow certain “precepts” or rules of conduct while you are at the retreat. Most formally conducted retreats require you to remain in silence with certain exceptions for necessary communication. To facilitate this, you are asked to hand over or shut down your phones, tablets, etc. These requirements are intended to help you to make the most of this time and to tap deeply into the inner silence of the mind. There is also a strict rule against consuming any intoxicants with occasional exceptions for smokers. Every participant is also expected to abstain from any form of physical contact with members of opposite sex. Most monasteries where these retreats are held expect retreatants (particularly

Chris Mayya

TRAVEL FEATURE

women) to maintain a certain dress code and to keep a reverential distance from the monks. In keeping with the monastery routine, meals are generally provided only in the mornings and afternoon, with no supper or just some light snacks and drinks. Of course, reasonable exceptions may be made for those with health conditions.

A large number of vipassana meditation practices in Thailand originally came from Burma. So in the northern part of the country, many retreat centers offer the Burmese style of vipassana, referred to as the Mahasi tradition. But, over the years, vipassana masters in Thailand have developed many “homegrown” vipassana styles. ● For beginners in vipassana who are willing to put up with just basic necessities, Suan Mokk International Dhamma Hermitage (●www.suanmokkh-idh.org), in the south, may be the ideal retreat. They conduct an organized English-language retreat every month, which requires no prior reservation. ● Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep (●www.fivethousandyears.org) and Wat Ram Poeng (●www.watrampoeng.com), near Chiang Mai, are ideal and convenient locations for those interested in a longer retreat. ● Then there are ubiquitous Goenka-style (●www.dhamma.org) vipassana courses, with several centers throughout Thailand. ● The Little Bangkok Sangha (●www.littlebang.org), a small meditation group in the capital, is a good resource for more information on English-language meditation programs. Their website also lists various retreat locations. There are several websites on the web listing vipassana centers. However, the information on some of them is outdated. It is better to venture forth and make some inquiries either at the temples you visit or on online forums to find the right location for your first retreat. Thailand offers you a range of opportunities on your path to self-discovery!

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Chris Mayya

Choosing the Right Location and Style of Meditation

contemporary indian dining

The Indus Experience has just been revamped. Come and try our brand new menu.

#71 Sukhumvit Soi 26. | Tel. 02-258-4900 | www.indusbangkok.com | indus@indusbangkok.com

HOTELS CHECKING IN

A View Over the City’s Green Lung Checking in to the newly renovated Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park

fter two years of renovation, the Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park (●952 Rama IV Bangkok, 02 632 9000, www.crowneplazabkk.com) is even better than before, and ready to spoil you. Ideally located next to Lumpini Park, in the heart of the city and walking distance from Sala Daeng BTS station and Silom MRT station, Crowne Plaza offers easy access to the metropolis and to Silom’s vibrant nightlife. Crowne Plaza hosts mostly business travelers, especially Japanese, and features an extensive list of services and amenities that allow for a pleasant and relaxing stay.

Lookeast | Hotels

by Federico Brandi The hotel has more than 240 rooms, both smoking and non-smoking, and all of them offer panoramic views of the city’s skyline thanks to their location on the 24th to 32nd floors. There are six different types of rooms—Superior, Deluxe, Club, Club Deluxe, Junior Suite, and Executive suite— to adapt to all needs. Imagine you come back after a long day around burning Bangkok, step into your room, and insert your key card, and your favorite music starts playing automatically. I just loved the classy touch of the iPod player in the room. Many are the facilities, including the club lounge, a fitness center—accessible to

Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park

non-guests, too—a wellness spa and health club, sauna, three massage rooms, a stylish outdoor pool with a city view, a 24-hour lounge, and Petal, a florist service. There are also plenty of options for MICE guests, such as 12 function rooms, a business center, and the White Room, which adapts both to social occasions and weddings. But what I found particularly amazing was the variety of the food choices. Panorama restaurant on the 23rd floor offers a stunning view of the city’s skyline and a menu ranging from international to Japanese and Thai cuisine. If you prefer a more intimate venue, private rooms are available, which are perfect to book a cooking class with the skillful kitchen staff. On the right side of Panorama is the Finishing Post, a hideaway bar and cigar club with a wide selection of whisky and wines. On the 22nd floor is the award-wining Xin Tian Di, an innovative Chinese restaurant with a large menu of mouthwatering dishes. It is ideal for families and large groups thanks to its seven private rooms. I highly recommend the delightful combination of wasabi prawns, and the homemade bean curd pan-fried with spinach in X.O. sauce. For lunch, a dim sum set is available. On the ground floor, the Short Cuts Deli, a small bakery, is the perfect choice for sweets lovers. And the Short Cuts Deck, on the outdoor terrace of the hotel’s main entrance, is a good choice for a drink after work in an urban environment. The staff is friendly, they will welcome you with a warm smile, and they will pay attention to details. The service is personalized and attentive, leaving you with less to worry about and much to enjoy during your stay.

JUNE 2014 | 25

Sarah Chang

Hyde & Seek

Issaya Siamese

MY LOVE STORY WITH BANGKOK From the people to the food, there are many reasons to fall in love in this city. can distinctly remember the first time I set foot in Bangkok in the mid-nineties. I was at university in the United States and came to visit classmates from Bangkok. It was blisteringly hot and humid, fast-paced yet relaxed at the same time, and full of contrasts. I fell so in love with Bangkok that when I had a choice of places in Southeast Asia to do a research grant in economics, Bangkok was my first choice. Ten years later I was living and working in New York City in the financial sector when I met my husband, who at that time had just opened his first restaurant in NYC. After several years in New York, in 2008 we started our own food and beverage consulting firm and never looked back. We found ourselves increasingly often in his hometown, and have based our consulting business in Bangkok while expanding our own restaurant brands worldwide. So, why Bangkok? Why is it the place one falls in love with and always comes back to? For me, there are many reasons, including the people, the contrasts between old and new, the lack of snow and freezing cold, and the FOOD! Bangkok is truly one of the food capitals of the world—rarely do a few days go by when there is another new restaurant

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opening or I get a message from a chef or hospitality professional coming through the city looking for the best places to eat. The sheer number of restaurants—not including the street food offerings—dwarfs the restaurant offerings on the mighty island of Manhattan. Obviously the Thai food here in Bangkok is tops, but we are also blessed with an abundance of non-Thai cuisine restaurants that are some of best found in any city. Living here one can easily have a breakfast of eggs Benedict; a northeastern Thai feast of laarb moo, sticky rice and gai yang for lunch; then a delicate and delicious 12-course tasting menu featuring ingredients such as foie gras, sea urchin, and oysters.

Smith

Sarah Chang

by Sarah Chang-Chalermkittichai

My advice for those coming to Bangkok is to really explore all the different foods the city has to offer: ● For Thai cuisine, start from some of the wet markets, such as Klong Toey market, Aor Tok Kor market, and Wong Wen Yai market. ● For street food, Chinatown and Sukhumvit Soi 38 at night are both great places. ● During lunch, wander around the sois of Silom (such as soi 7 or soi 5, or ITF market next to ITF tower) for some lunchtime food markets—just follow the masses of office workers making beelines for these areas. ● For indoor dining with ambience, air conditioning, wine lists and cocktails, there are a growing number of options to choose from that are not the typical tourist traps or stiff hotel dining, such as Nahm, Issaya Siamese Club, Soul Food Mahanakorn, and Supanniga Eating Room. ● For those who want to see a variety of Thai food and products in the cool comfort of air conditioning, the sparkly new Central Embassy features a Thai food and product bazaar aptly named EatThai that is worth a visit. Not to be overlooked are the plethora of non-Thai cuisines on offer in the city, for example: Aoi, Maru, Bankara Ramen and Ramen Tei (Japanese); La Bottega di Luca, La Scala and Appia (Italian); Hyde & Seek Gastro Bar, Smith, Quince, and The Library by Water Library (New American/ British/Australian); Hong Bao, Ah Yat and Chef Man (Chinese), among others which are far too numerous to list here. After stuffing oneself silly with all the culinary and beverage temptations the city has to offer, I would recommend sleeping it off at the Mandarin Oriental or The Siam for beautiful river views; the St. Regis or Intercontinental Hotel to be close to shopping areas and direct access to the skytrain; Silq, La Cabochon or Salil Hotel on Thonglor for the more budget minded. Bangkok is truly a delicious melting pot of cuisines and hospitality unlike any other, which is why it is one of my favorite places not only in Thailand, but in the world.

Sarah Chang

TRAVEL MY FAVORITE PLACE

HOTELS CHECKING IN

ADVERTORIAL

Vana Belle

From a mythical forest in the Himalayas, to Koh Samui

nder the shade of native trees, protected from the sun’s dazzling rays, and surrounded by the gentle sound of waves lapping the soft white sands of Chaweng Noi beach, Vana Belle (●9/99 Moo 3, Chaweng Noi Beach, Surat Thani, Koh Samui, 077 915 555, www.vanabellekohsamui.com) is nestled exquisitely in a stunning cove overlooking the Gulf of Siam. It is a private haven of luxury offering an enchanting getaway and memorable experiences. The concept of the resort is based around the “Himmapan”, a mythical forest which is located somewhere in the Himalayas, outside of the human realm, somewhere between Heaven and Earth, and is invisible and inaccessible to mortal beings. Inspired by this mythical forest, Vana Belle is designed around existing trees and natural rock formations, to work harmoniously with nature and complement the native flora and fauna around the resort. The first Luxury Collection property on Koh Samui, Vana Belle offers a selection of

stunning guest Suites and Villas, ranging from 86 square meters to 211 square meters. The architecture and design of the 80 guest Suites and Villas reflect the rich and indigenous local culture and feature views of the tropical gardens and cerulean waters. Each unit offers a private pool and a spacious terrace along with every modern luxury and convenience. Guests will enjoy signature Luxury Collection beds, 40” LCD TV’s with DVD players, iPod docking and a fully-stocked mini-bar complete with a Vodka mixology set. Separating Vana Belle from other resorts, the services of a 24-hour on-call butler are available to guests of the Ocean View Pool Suite and Tropical Pool Villa for the duration of their stay. Beginning with a warm greeting upon arrival, guests will have the same butler offering personalized service for their entire stay. Vana Belle also introduces the brand’s signature Luxury Collection Concierge service to all guests, offering the most discerning global travelers an extraordinary experience and impeccable

service. The Luxury Collection Concierge provides guests with recommendations to discover and experience Koh Samui in an authentic and indigenous way. Kiree is Vana Belle’s signature venue, and sits atop a hill offering unparalleled views, and serving the finest authentic, Southern Thai cuisine. Panali is located beach side, next to the fine white sand, and serves scrumptious Italian cuisine throughout the day. For those who seek reprieve, Vana Spa provides a realm of healing and revitalization through cleansing treatments that soothe the senses and an atmosphere that mirrors the fauna and flora of the mystic forest. Recently, Vana Belle has extended a service of events and wedding organizing. Each experience will be carefully designed to ensure our guest’s day is as perfect as they imagined. From pre-wedding preparations to romantic beach private dinners, they will help to curate the most exceptional moments in this magnificent paradise. JUNE 2014 | 27

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A DAY—AND NIGHT—OUT ON THE ISLAND Located on Malaysia’s northwestern coast, Penang is a multitudinous expression of a country featuring everything from UNESCO heritage sites and cultural expressions to vibrant nightlife. by Marco Ferrarese

W Kit Yeng Chan

elcome to Penang, center of the Malaysian art renaissance, where retro and historical are the new cool. An island celebrated as must-go spot for foodies in 2014 by none other than Lonely Planet. A place where three races send prayers in three different languages to an array of polyglot gods in the sky, and joss-sticks perpetually waft before multicolored temple gates. It’s not always been like that, though: just five years ago, what are today sparkling heritage buildings lay abandoned under the unforgiving sun, and thoroughfare Chulia Street was just a waiting room for Thailand visa runners. Penang’s UNESCO Heritage listing came handy in 2007, and with it come a phalanx of make-up artists and expert coiffeurs to spiff her up. The final facelift is a brandnew old town that’s won hearts the world over, and has become a synonym for Southeast Asian trendy. Read on for an insider’s guide to cruising Penang’s artsy street like a local by day and soaring with its clubbers at night.

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TRAVEL FEATURE

Street Art

prominent cultured Chinese who adopted the ways of educated Malays and British settlers. Their legacy is opulent in the mansion, where antiques and luxurious halls give visitors a unique tour of an age past. The Whiteaways Arcade (●+60 4 226 1199, www.facebook.com/ whiteawayspg), a renovated colonial building filled with upmarket dining and entertaining options, offers a modern take on heritage visits. Grabbing a sandwich at Subway or sipping coffee at Old Town Café is much more inspiring if done inside an 18th-century building. Muntri Street, once a dodgy artery of Penang harbour’s underworld, today looks better than ever with its rows of renovated shophouses. Among the guesthouses and flash-packer hotels, find the interesting Camera Museum—the first in Southeast Asia—or quirky Purrfect Café (●53 Jalan Muntri, +60 4 261 1197, www.facebook. com/penangcatcafe). Have coffee and cake on the second floor before you start petting one of the nine resident cats. The ground floor has a collection of cat-themed gadgets for sale to satisfy the needs of any serious feline lover.

meters from Zacharevic’s iconic kids. He drew cartoons of the shop owner’s children snatching Chinese “baozi” from a basket perched at the back of the bicycle. Even itinerant travellers with a penchant for art, such as Okinawan truck driver Takayuki Miyazono, have added their touch to the city walls. He has transformed a school’s wall into the set of a Japanese fairy tale. However, Zacharevic continues to lead Penang’s art scene: he just redecorated the walls of the old Hin Bus Depot (●31A Jalan Gurdwara, www.facebook.com/ hinbusdepot), where he launched his “Art Is Rubbish/Rubbish Is Art” exposition in January 2014, and quickly became the island’s premier space for visual arts. Penang is also branching out to cinema, as Australian-born short film festival Trop Fest made George Town its Southeast Asian hub this year.

Heritage

George Town oozes history and art from every back street, but there’s more to be experienced by going inside. The Peranakan Mansion (●+60 4 264 2929, www.pinangperanakanmansion.com.my) is a trip back to the time of the Baba-Nyonya,

Kit Yeng Chan

Murals are the bread and butter of Penang’s nascent tourism. Take a stroll at the end of Armenian Street to see crowds queued up for the perfect photo next to Ernest Zacharevic’s “Two Kids on a Bicycle.” Created for George Town’s Festival 2012, the Lithuanian artist’s paintings became a serious tourist draw, but they’re not the first attempt to beautify the old walls of Penang’s historic city center. Honors were reserved for the 52 steel rod caricatures that the Kuala Lumpur– based company, Sculpture at Work, realized in 2009 for the project “Marking George Town.” Perched at the town’s most iconic corners, the metal signs help visitors learn more about each street peculiar name. For example, we learn that Love Lane—today’s backpacker central—was in colonial times the residence of the island elite’s mistresses. Other local artists have followed the mural trend: Johor native WK Setor installed another bicycle on the façade of the Ming Xiang Tai Pastry Shop (●26 Gat Lebuh Armenian, 10200 George Town, +60 4 261 9887, www.facebook.com/ MingXiangTai1979), just a few hundred

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TRAVEL FEATURE

There are several clubbing or bar-crawling options in Penang. Cuvee (●Precinct 10, Jalan Tanjung Tokong 10-C-18/19) is a champagne and wine venue with psychedelic lights and a funky décor. If you want to be chic, there’s no better place in town to swing a high heel-shod foot with a wine glass in hand. For more casual times, The Press (●2, Lebuh Chulia, George Town) is a delightfully wood-themed, tunnel-shaped club with a rooftop and a view just a short walk from George Town’s main jetty. Happy hours are long, and the mix of live bands and local DJs spinning an array of vibrant dance beats keeps the parties up until late. When looking for real clubbing, SOJU (●B2, Entertainment City, Penang Times Square) offers pyrotechnic dance shows starring international artists, Russian pole dancers, and a mix of the latest, most disparate dance sounds. Book a table, bring your friends, and enjoy the show.

Alternative Parties and Live Music

If official clubs and bars are not your pick, Penang also boosts occasional alternative dance parties hosted by underground collective Ze Arcade Paint (ZAP). The collective started organizing “friendsonly” rooftop parties and evolved into full-fledged events. The most spectacular was “Disappear Here” in January 2013: urban tribes of alternative rockers and dancers came together in a day and night out on the top of iconic Penang Hill, the island’s colonial hill resort. Held under an inspiring geodesic dome and its surrounding gardens, it was the first fusion of alternative rock and dance beats ever held on the quaint hill. There’s chance to see—and move— more, as ZAP continues to organize parties (●www.facebook.com/zearcadepaint for updates). Live music is also on every weekend at Soundmaker (●+60 174 287 327, www. facebook.com/Soundmakerstudio), the local den of alternative rock, punk and heavy metal bands, and a great venue in which to meet Penang’s eccentrics.

Kit Yeng Chan

Nightlife

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TRAVEL COVER STORY

EVERYTHING FOR EVERYONE

Royal Cliff Hotels Group

Pattaya and its surrounding areas have indeed made a comeback, and they are now among Thailand’s most vibrant resort areas. Easy to reach and with something to do for everyone—it has accommodations, dining opportunities, and activities designed to fit every pocketbook—Pattaya is expected to remain as one of the country’s most visited tourist destinations.

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Up in the Air, on Firm Land, or in the Water

Deconstructing Pattaya

Located in a crescent on Thailand’s “Eastern Seaboard,” Pattaya only 110 kilometers from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, and 147 kilometers from central Bangkok, Greater Pattaya comprises three distinct beach areas: Naklua to the north, Jomtien to the south, and Pattaya Beach—largest and most popular stretch of sand—sandwiched in between. Generally speaking, Naklua and Jomtien are more family oriented, while Pattaya Beach is where most of the nightlife and bars are found. Many families, however, prefer Pattaya Beach, especially the northern areas, because of the numerous restaurants, budget accommodations, and array of watersports activities available.

The most popular activities in Pattaya are connected with the water. For many this means simply lazing around the pool or on the beach. For the more active, watersports activities include banana boat rides, waterskiing, parasailing, windsurfing, and jet skiing—all at prices that are reasonable by international standards. Snorkeling, deep-sea fishing, and especially scuba diving are other popular water-related activities. Pattaya is a great place for novice divers who can dive near wrecks or take scuba lessons to receive NAUI or PADI certification. If you tire of the beach, there are oodles of things to keep you busy. You can leap into space and bounce back again when bungee jumping; or, if you don’t want to bounce back, you can learn how to skydive with a parachute attached to your back. If you have fantasies of being a Formula One driver, Pattaya Kart Speedway will allow you to put your dreams into action. If you’ve never fired a handgun, you can blast away to your heart’s content in a shooting range. And if you long for combat, you can get into a shoot-out with your buddies playing paintball. Activities especially suited for the

entire family include the Flight of the Gibbon (see our mini guide in the next pages), Underwater World Pattaya, a massive aquarium with a Plexiglas tunnel through a tank; Pattaya Water Park is a giant amusement park dedicated to water activities; and the Fishing Pond at the Jungle Bungy Jump in Jomtien, where you and Junior can hook up with a gigantic fish, land it, have photographs taken, and then throw it back in the water for someone else to catch. Museums include the Bottle Art Museum and Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum. For many, a trip to Pattaya means a golfing holiday. The area has over 20 international standard 18-hole courses within an hour’s drive. The courses have been designed by luminaries such as Robert Trent Jones Jr., Pete Dye, and Jack Nicklaus. Green fees are remarkably low by international standards and, for those new to the game, reasonably priced lessons from trained professionals are available. Many hotels offer golfing packages that include green fees and transportation to the golf course. In short, greater Pattaya is one of the best places in the world for golf lovers to spend a holiday.

JUNE 2014 | 35

TRAVEL COVER STORY

seafood and international dishes. For reasonably priced Thai and Lao dishes in a standalone restaurant, many swear by the Vientiane (●038 411 298) on Soi Yamato. The Continental fare and wine list at Bruno’s Restaurant (●038 364 600) are world-class. Next to Bruno’s is Gian’s (●038 364 934), one of Pattaya’s best standalone Italian dining spots. Steak lovers are treated well in Pattaya, and Manhattans Restaurant & Bar (●038 259 790) is an elegant place with a popular piano bar and top-notch steaks. This is just the tip of the iceberg; there is much, much more, but it is up to you to find it. Oh, and don’t miss Mantra (●038 429 591), a dynamic, stylish, and seriously cool restaurant at the northern end of the Beach Road. Smaller, more humble dining spots are best found by wandering the sois and stopping at places that catch your fancy. In addition to Thai places and the Italian, French, American, Japanese, Chinese and Indian food found everywhere, you will stumble on dining spots serving food from Belgium, Russia, Turkey, Mexico, Uzbekistan, Holland, Sweden, and numerous other countries. Dining in Pattaya is always a cosmopolitan treat loaded with excitement and the chance to try something new every night of the week.

Culinary Holidays

All the world’s major cuisines are represented in Pattaya and it is almost pointless to try to enumerate them. Every major hotel has a signature restaurant and many of these are worth visiting. For an elegant night out, the Grill Room & Wine Cellar (●038 250 421) at the Royal Cliff Beach Resort is long-established and noted for its fantastic grills and extensive wine list. Also at the Royal Cliff Beach Resort is what many consider Pattaya’s most elegant Thai restaurant: Larn Thong & Terrace (●038 250 421). At the Dusit Thani Pattaya, Peak Chinese

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Restaurant (●038 425 611) serves highly regarded Chinese food while offering one of Pattaya’s best panoramic views. Casa Pascal (●038 723 660) in South Pattaya opposite the Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa offers a great selection of European dishes prepared by a Swiss who has spent extensive time in Asia. Horizon (●038 253 000), at Hilton Pattaya, offers some of Pattaya’s best views from level 34. A bit off the beaten track, Rimpa Lapin (●084 4515 686) strives to bring bold new flavors to some favorite Thai Dishes, while The Glasshouse Pattaya (●038 255 922) is a beachfront bar and restaurant offering Thai

Don’t Miss in Pattaya!

Central Festival Pattaya Beach (●www.centralfestival.co.th) is the largest beachfront lifestyle shopping complex in Asia. Spanning a seven-story building set on an 11-meter long stretch of sand, this shopping mall offers more than 200 chic fashion outlets and boutiques, plus hip restaurants that line the beachfront for an exceptional al fresco dining experience. Siam Country Club Pattaya Plantation (●www.siamcountryclub.com) was built at the same time of the renovation of Siam Country Club Pattaya Old Course, and opened in April 2008. Designed by Lee Schmidt of Schmidt & Curley, the Plantation is a 27-hole golf course sitting high on rolling hills of the natural terrain, meandering mountains, and natural creeks with a panoramic view of Pattaya. From 2009 onward, the Plantation has been awarded the “Best Maintained Golf Course in Asia Pacific.” Thai Polo & Equestrian Club (●www.siampolopark.com) is located 25 minutes north from Pattaya. Opened in 2005, it is set in more than 250 hectares and has three international-standard, full-sized fields, two practice grounds, stabling for over 250 horses, paddocks and, approximately, 80 horses for the use of members. Clinics are offer for all skill levels and age groups.

Queens of the Night

When the sun goes down, Pattaya’s numerous and notorious bars come to life. Even if you aren’t participating, walking down the narrow sois and watching the action is highly entertaining. If you do stop in at one of the bars, watch your belongings and be sure to exercise some common sense. Female impersonators are big on Pattaya’s after-dark agenda. The cabaret shows at Alcazar (●038 429 694) and Tiffany’s (●038 421 701) are considered the best. For a traditional pub, Jameson’s Irish Pub (●038 361 873/4) and Jomtien (●038 303-490) are worth visiting. Live music is rare in Pattaya. The best places to enjoy a drink and music are in the lobby bars of the resort’s upmarket hotels. In addition, several of the larger Thai restaurants have live Thai music and classical dancing in the evening.

JUNE 2014 | 37

Dave Stamboulis

TRAVEL COVER STORY

PATTAYA MINI GUIDE Why go, what to see, what to do, where to eat, drink, and sleep By Dave Stamboulis

attaya has reinvented itself over the past few years and now features some world-class resorts and restaurants, plus plenty of interesting sights and day trips in the surrounding areas. The central beach is no great shakes, but a short ferry ride will get you out to Koh Larn island, which is blessed with many sandy coves with large beaches and water with a color and clarity that will make you think you are somewhere much farther south.

for a swim, eat good seafood, check out a winery, take a boat to an island, drink in a -20°C bar, see a go-go or cabaret show, and relax in a pampering resort. Not too many other spots in the kingdom can give you such variety. Pattaya also is home to excellent festivals throughout the year, ranging from the Silverlake and Pattaya music fests to the International Fireworks festival, along with a huge New Year’s countdown and Songkran Thai New Year events.

Why Go

What to See

Pattaya makes for an excellent quick escape from Bangkok. In one weekend you can go

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The Silverlake Winery (●Silverlake, 02 261 6565) seems misplaced out here, more

akin to a piece of France than Pattaya. Owned by former Thai actress Supansa Nuangphirom, it features fantastic lake views, horse-drawn carriages, plenty of greenery, and good wine from the abundant vineyards. The renowned international Silverlake Music Festival (●www.silverlakemusicfest.com) takes place here each March. Nearby Khao Chee Chan mountain is also a big draw, with its 130-meter giant Buddha carved into the hillside, set in a beautiful park. The all-wood temple filled with Buddhist and Hindu themes and plenty of visionary art at the Sanctuary of Truth (●206/2 Moo 5, Soi Naklua 12, 038 367 229, www.

TRAVEL COVER STORY

Eating and Drinking

Mantra Restaurant & Bar

Foodies from Thong Lor will want to visit Mantra (●Amari Pattaya, Pattaya Beach, 038 429 591, www.mantra-pattaya.com), which features seven open kitchens where you can watch master chefs prepare a range of Asian and Western foods. There is a Japanese kitchen, a Chinese dim sum and roast duck spot, a Mediterranean kitchen, grill and seafood venues, a Western corner, along with an Indian kitchen with a tandoor oven. Mantra Restaurant and Bar also showcases a walk-in glass wine cellar housing a collection of top vintages and rare labels from more than 160 brands across four continents. Sunday Brunch is also served and is one of Pattaya’s best – featuring an assortment of delicacies from around the world. For something unique, have some homemade noodles while getting your feet nibbled by fish at The Spa Noodle Café (●Moo 9, Pattaya Central Road, Tel. 038 427 374, www. lolepop.net/spanoodle.htm). The summer months in Pattaya are hot, so cool off at V2O Ice Bar (●Soi 15 Corner, Walking Street, 080 107 0704, www.v2o-icebar. com), which provides all of its guests with parkas, hats, and gloves for dealing with the cold, and serves frozen Absolut vodka shots to the hearty.

sanctuaryoftruth.com) is also worth a stopover, as is Pattaya’s Floating Market (●451 Moo 12, Sukhumvit, 038 706340), a tastefully recreated traditional floating market full of regional products, traditional arts and performances, and fun for the whole family.

What to Do

Make sure to visit Koh Larn island (●www.kohlarn.com). Speedboats and ferries regularly make the trip (45 minutes and THB 30 by public ferry) out to this small island that has some gorgeous beaches and seems miles away from central Pattaya. Banana boat rides and jet skiing are popular water sports on

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the main beaches. Attending a ladyboy cabaret is actually a family-friendly event at Tiffany’s (●464 Moo 9, Pattaya 2 Rd, 038 421 700, www.tiffany-show.co.th), now in its 40th year and voted by Travel. com as the fourth best show in the world. Golf is also a big draw in Pattaya, with more than 30 courses, such as the Laem Chabang International Country Club (●Sri Racha, 038 372 273 ext. 444, www.laemchabanggolf.com) designed by golf legend Jack Nicklaus. For some real adventure, try the popular zip lines over the rain forest canopy with Flight of the Gibbon (●053 010 660, www.treetopasia. com) with its adventure course in the Chompoo Wildlife Sanctuary next to the Khao Keow Zoo.

BKSP-368

The Centara Grand Mirage (●277 Moo 5, Naklua, 038 301 234, www. centarahotelsresorts.com) is far more than just a hotel. The luxury resort, located on Wong Amat Beach, is Pattaya’s largest water facility (the sea aside), with the entire resort built around a mammoth water park that features swimming pools, waterfalls, water slides, and even a river flowing through it all. For Pattaya’s best hideaway on a private bay on Phra Tamnak hill, the Sheraton Pattaya Resort (●437 Phra Tamnak Rd, 038 259 888 www. sheratonpattayaresort.com) is a fantastic option, featuring the best sunset view in all Pattaya. The Dusit Thani Pattaya (●240/2 Pattaya Beach Rd, 038 425 611, www.dusit.com) has a prime downtown location near dining, nightlife, and the beach, and features excellent views from its terrace. Also in Central Pattaya and right by the beach, the Amari Ocean (●Pattaya Beach, 038 418 418, www.amari.com) sits 20 stories above the action and is home to Mantra, one of Pattaya’s best restaurants. The Hilton Pattaya (●333/101 Moo 9,

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Nong Prue, 038 253 000, www.3.hilton. com) is another central winner, offering rooms that soar 34 levels above Pattaya’s Central Festival, Southeast Asia’s largest beachfront shopping complex. The Centara Grand Phratamnak (●352/430 Moo 12, Nong Prue, 038 306 337, www.centarahotelsresorts.com) is a new and swank South Pattaya beachside resort, with a pool and Jacuzzi on the roof and superb views across the bay. Finally, for a private sanctuary, built into a cliff side and surrounded by tropical shrubbery, the Royal Cliff Hotels Group (●353 Phra Tamnak Rd, 038 250 421, www.royalcliff. com) is a low-rise boutique resort built in exotic Thai style.

Sheraton Pattaya Resort

Sleeping

How to Get There

Dusit Thani Pattaya

Royal Cliff Hotels Group

Centara Grand Phratamnak

Amari Pattaya

Hilton Pattaya

Centara Grand Mirage

TRAVEL COVER STORY

Pattaya is less than two hours from Bangkok. While having a vehicle can be useful for seeing the sights around Pattaya, save yourself the driving hassles as it is ultra convenient to come from Bangkok on public transport. Buses run every 15 minutes or so from Ekkamai Eastern Bus Terminal, while minivans fill up quickly and are an even faster alternative. They are found just below the BTS Station at Victory Monument.

TRAVEL LOOKEAST’S PICKS OF THE MONTH

PLACES TO STAY IN PATTAYA Amari Nova Suites Pattaya (●Bang Lamung District, Chon Buri, 038 489 488, www.amari.com/novasuites) Located in the heart of Central Pattaya, Nova Suites applies Amari’s warm, gracious service and laid-back comfort to the serviced apartment concept so that your stay is effortless. Close to Pattaya Beach, the vibrant downtown shopping areas as well as the city’s famous nightlife, Amari Nova Suites Pattaya puts you within reach of everything this dynamic Thai vacation city has to offer. Dusit Thani Pattaya (●240/2 Pattaya Beach Road, Pattaya City, Chonburi 20150, 038 425 611) This five-star hotel, which is located amidst a tropical garden and boasts stunning panoramic views over Pattaya Bay, offers Thai luxury and hospitality in the heart of the city. Conveniently located near the shopping and dining venues of Pattaya City, Dusit Thani Pattaya offers the perfect beach getaway for all types of travelers. It also makes for a perfect venue for any number of social functions or meetings.

Hilton Pattaya (●333/101 Moo 9, Nong Prue, Banglamung, Pattaya, 038 253 000, pattaya.hilton.com ) Hilton Pattaya is a stylish hotel that soars 34 levels above Pattaya’s CentralFestival Pattaya Beach, Southeast Asia’s largest beachfront shopping complex. The award-winning Hilton Pattaya offers contemporary luxury alongside instant access to beaches, shops, restaurants, and attractions. Royal Cliff Hotels Group (●353 Phra Tamnuk Road, Pattaya, Chonburi, 038 250 421, www.royalcliff. com) Experience the tropical ambience throughout 64 acres of lush tropical gardens overlooking the turquoise ocean of the Gulf of Thailand at of one of Royal Cliff Hotels Group’s four five-star properties, each with its own character. Royal Cliff Hotels Group also features the Pattaya Exhibition and Convention Hall (PEACH), a world-class multipurpose meeting facility.

Villa Villa Pattaya (●99/9 Moo. 13, Pattanakarn Rd, Nongprue, Banglamung, Chonburi, 038 224 507–9, www.villavillapattaya.com) Villa Villa elegantly combines traditional Thai and contemporary architecture. The designs are inspired by the elements of the nature, water, earth, wood, and stone. Pick from a choice of 29 luxury units comprising 21 appointed rooms and eight luxury pool villas. Amari Pattaya (●240 M00. 5, Pattaya Beach Road, 20150, 038 418 418, www.amari.com/ ocean-pattaya/) A beach lifestyle hotspot on the picturesque northern crescent of vibrant Pattaya Bay, the resort offers an array of seaside experiences from an idyllic Thai beach holiday, to destination dining among the fashionable crowd, and much more. Pattaya is upbeat and relaxing, with endless entertainment and sporting opportunities. The hotel’s oceanfront location is close to the city’s throbbing entertainment zone, museums, golf courses and other recreational activities.

JUNE 2014 | 43

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

Special Offer for CIMB Membership Credit Card at Amari Pattaya

Weekend Staycation at Oriental Residence

What: Kick back and relax with Oriental Residence Bangkok’s most recent “Weekend Staycation” package, a good choice for a quick break away from the everyday life. The offer includes: Grand Deluxe or One Bedroom Suite with a minimum of two nights; complimentary first two drinks at Play Desk from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; complimentary schedule shuttle service every 30 minutes to Central Embassy; food and beverage discount of fifteen percent; late check out until 3 p.m., and more. When: From now until December 31 Where: Oriental Residence Bangkok More info: 02 125 9000, reservations@oriental-residence. com

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

Oriental Residence Bangkok

Amari

What: Amari Pattaya in cooperation with CIMB Bank present a special offer for the CIMB Membership Credit Card, with discounts up to fifteen percent. Just book via www.amari.com and use the promo code: CIMB2014. Amari Pattaya has separated the accommodation style for this promotion into two offers: Get a ten percent discount when making a booking seven days in advance at Amari Garden Pattaya (●www.amari.com/gardenpattaya), with room prices starting at THB 2,760. Or get a ten percent discount when making a booking seven days in advance, or a fifteen percent discount when making a booking 14 days in advance at Amari Ocean Pattaya (●www.amari.com/ocean-pattaya), with room prices starting at THB 3,220. When: From now until December 31 Where: Amari Pattaya More info: 038 418 418

Twenty Percent Off Your Stay at Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

What: Plan ahead for your holiday and save up to twenty percent off Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa’s Best Available Rate, by booking in advance. The only hotel in Hua Hin offering sea views from all 296 guest rooms and suites, the resort is built around a large free-form swimming pool with Jacuzzi and slide, and boasts direct access to the public beach. When: Ongoing Where: Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa More info: 032 538 999

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

What: Enjoy four-nights accommodation in a luxurious Lagoon Access Room with daily buffet breakfast for two people, sparkling wine and an in-room floral bath, a romantic three-course dinner, an afternoon tea ritual for two people per stay, 90-minute Shine Massage for two people per stay, late check-out until 4 p.m., and more for THB 59,999 net per room, for a four-nights stay. When: From now until October 31 Where: Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa More info: 032 708000, www.sheraton. com/huahin

Free Night Stay for Every Booking During the Weekend

Presidential Package

What: Pamper yourself with the Presidential Package at Hotel de la Paix, Cha Am Beach, including two consecutive nights accommodation in a Pool Villa, with breakfast for two people; nightly sunset cocktails and canapés on the beach; one-time Romantic private cabana beach BBQ for two people; one-time 90-minute Mochachino Energizing Scrub with Aromatic Massage for two people, and more. Rate starts at THB 30,500 net, and is applicable Sunday thru Friday. Overnight stay on Saturday or public holiday has a surcharge of THB 2,500 THB per package. When: From now until September 30 Where: Hotel de la Paix, Cha Am Beach, Hua Hin More info: 032 709 555, book@ hoteldelapaixhh.com

Hotel de la Paix

Room, Dine, and Spa for Two

Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square

What: Swissôtel Le Concorde is offering a free night-stay for every booking during the weekend! Rates for this offer start as at THB 2,600 net per night for the first two nights, and the third night is free. Limited rooms are available for this promotion. Mention “Facebook stay two nights, third night free” when booking. When: From now until June 30 Where: Swissôtel Le Concorde More info: 02 694 2222 ext. 1130–34, reservation.bangkok@swissotel.com

Weekly Discount Plus for Thai Residents

What: Whether on a family vacation in the vibrant city of Pattaya, on a romantic getaway, or an adventure weekend escape, Thai residents can now enjoy an ultimate hotel experience in one of Thailand’s premiere five-star hotels for less, with Royal Cliff Hotels Group’s Weekly Discount Plus Package. Book now and receive a forty percent discount on the guest room rate, and forty five percent discount on the suite rate. When: From now until October 31 Where: Royal Cliff Hotels Group More info: www.royalcliff.com

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Super Saver and More

What: Located in the heart of Siam Square, Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square is ideal for shoppers, culture seekers, and business travelers, due to its proximity to an array of international shopping centers, local designer markets, entertainment, and a myriad of dining options. Take advantage of the hotel’s Super Saver Package, with rates starting from THB 2,700++ per night, including breakfast. The first 100 Accor Advantage Plus members who book through the website will receive a Welcome Pack valued at THB 25,000,including free skin care, spa product, facial and beauty treatment, souvenir, and discount coupons at Siam Paragon shopping mall. When: Book before June 30 for your stay before September 30, 2014 Where: Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square More info: 02 209 8888, www.accorhotels.com

Chao Phraya River Cruise Riding Along a Major River in Thailand

Baan Silapin

long the Chao-Pra-Ya River is where you can ﬁnd many of Bangkok’s tourist attractions. The river has much to offer along it’s banks, whether you in search of a restaurant to dine at or a Buddhist temple to explore; many of these attractions offer a variety activities that draw in both tourists and locals alike.Throughout the history of Thailand, the Chao Phraya River has played a very important role in Thai society and everyday life. The heads of the river begins in the North of Thailand from the Ping, Wang, Yom, and Nan rivers. The four rivers all meet at the Paknam Pho District of the Nakorn Province forming a creek, which is surrounded by an area once called the Chao Phraya district from which the river draws its name. In Bangkok, the Chao Phraya River ﬂows along the locations of various tourist attractions and restaurants that are dotted along its banks. Famous attractions include Wat Arun Ratchawararam, Asiatique, The Artist House so called ‘Bann Silapin’, and numerous monuments such as The King Rama II monument. In this article we will be mapping key attractions along the river and can act as a guide to travelers hoping to gain in-depth information about what the Chao Phraya River has to offer.

One of the best ways to travel along the river is to commission a rental Tourist Boat for about 500 baht per person. The best place to start off is at the Saphan Taksin Peir from which you can make stops along the way up the river at Wat Arun Ratchawararam, known as the Temple of Dawn, located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. Built in the early nineteenth century during the reign of King Rama II of the Chakri Dynasty, the temple is best known for its beauty and architecture as well as its rich history. It gets its name the manner in which the the first light of the morning reflects off its surface with pearly iridescence. Just a few minute’s walk from Wat Arun by foot, you can find the monument for King Rama II. Here you can observe the area, enjoy the view, as well as pay respect and give blessings. The next stop along the river is the Artist House, known in Thai as “Baan Silapin”, it is a puppet house located on the east bank of Bang Luang Canal, a part of Chao Phaya River. Here you will get to watch a series of puppet shows free of charge. Not only can you stop for the puppet show at the Khlong Bang Luang but the floating market and the antique shops are also big attractions.

Resturants at Asiatique

At the last stop along the river you find yourself at the Asiatique the Riverfront, where you can spend the rest of the day among a plethora of fine dining and shopping venues. This 12 acre area is divided into four districts that cater to different tastes. The Factory District is where you’ll find most of the 1500 small shops located in old warehouses. Here you can find lots of fashion outlets, some souvenirs shops, design items, handicrafts, and many other products. The Waterfront District is what you see when you first arrive by boat. Here you find fancy restaurants and event venues lined up along a 300m boardwalk. Concerts, festivals and the New Year’s countdown celebrations all take place here. The Down Square District is a mixture of Thai & Western influences a large sports bar, international food, and a small events area. Last but not least, the Chareonkrung District is where you find more than 1,000 retail shops selling handicrafts, home decor, souvenirs, but also the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and the Calypso Show. The Chao Phraya River runs through the heart of Bangkok and offers both Tourists and Locals a wide range of activities and experiences, and along its banks you can find all the things that make Bangkok the wonderful city that it is.

Asiatique Broadwalk

TRAVEL NEWS

Asiatique The Riverfront to be the First Shopping Destination Partner for TripAdvisor VFS Global

VFS Global inaugurates a new Joint UK and Australia Visa Application Centre in Bangkok

VFS Global continues to be responsible for accepting applications for UK and Australia visas from applicants residing in Thailand. The new Joint Visa Application Centre (JVAC) is centrally located at Trendy Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 13, and offers convenient services with improved infrastructure and ultra-modern facilities. VFS Global has a dedicated website (www.vfsglobal.co.uk/thailand and www.vfs-au.net) to provide all information about visa applications. The new center also offers additional services including premium lounge, fast-track, priority, courier and SMS, and it is open from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on weekdays.

Sheraton Pattaya Resort Apponts New Director of Culinary & Service

Asiatique The Riverfront and TripAdvisor, the world’s largest travel website, recently joined hands to promote the “Asiatique The Riverfront pass TripAdvisor” development online, gaining access to travellers in all corners of the globe. This is the first time TripAdvisor aligned with a shopping venue, and it marks an important step that will make Asiatique known far and wide in the international arena. As part of the partnership, there will be a customized Asiatique The Riverfront attractions page on TripAdvisor China, also known as Daodao to Chinese users, featuring traveller reviews and a detailed listing of its numerous boutiques and restaurants.

Spring and Summer Holidays Surrounded by Natural Beauty at Club Med Guilin

Club Med Guilin

Club Med invites holidaymakers and corporate incentive groups to discover China’s “Most Beautiful Natural Landscape” at Club Guilin, recently honored by TripAdvisor as number one out of 398 hotels in the city. Club Med Guilin unveiled several new 2014 Spring programs available from now until June 30, including floristry classes, cooking classes, and wine tasting lessons. This season’s guests can also discover Taiwanese-style Mongolian barbecue at the newly opened Atelier Rooftop BBQ; children can sign up for the new “Happy Nature & Art Passport 2014” and try dozens of different fun activities; while corporates can take advantage of newly opened meeting facilities. Other activities for holidaymakers include mountain climbing on the region’s famous limestone karsts with 10 paths and three different levels available; stroll through the resort’s Modern Sculpture Park; practice archery; play golf at its nine-hole “Pitch and Putt” course; and participate in daily tai chi and yoga classes for all levels, among other.

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok

Sheraton Pattaya Resort welcomes Jack Yoss as the hotel’s new Director of Culinary & Service; he leads the operation of three venues—Elements, Infiniti, and Latitude Lounge—, and oversees the food and beverage culinary and service team. American-born chef Yoss blends his Pan-Asian culture with fine dining technique, to create fine dining experiences. Prior to his appointment at Sheraton Pattaya Resort, Yoss was Executive Sous Chef at Indigo Pearl, Phuket. He also works as an advisory board of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014.

Newly Refurbished Modern Meeting Space, “Zap”

Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15, one of Starwood Hotels & Resorts, announces the completion of the hotel’s THB 4 million meeting space refurbishment. With a modern yet “homely” look which inspires creativity and comfort, Zap features a spectacular 70" interactive display system, a self-service refreshment center stocked with unlimited nonalcoholic beverages, and an easy access from the main road. Offering a 70 square meters of space, Zap can accommodate small to medium size group meetings for up to 40 people. Apart from business meetings, Zap is a good option for dinners or cocktail parties, with an option to extend into Zap Garden.

LIFESTYLE FEATURE

Siam Paragon

(●Siam BTS station, open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.) Located at the center of Bangkok’s shopping area, close to Siam Center, Siam Discovery Center, MBK, and Central World, Siam Paragon is easy to reach by BTS, and it is the place where Thai and foreign shoppers go looking for high-end international brands, such as Gucci, Armani, Marc Jacobs, Burberry, and Louis Vuitton, among others. But Siam Paragon is not only about shopping: there is a gourmet market and a food hall, plus Thai traditional art shops. In addition, the Blu-O Rhythm & Bowl bowling; Siam Ocean World, Asia’s largest and first giant city center aquarium; and a premium cinema complex will all bring your shopping experience in Paragon to another level.

O.P. Place

(●30/1 Soi Charoen Krung 38, Charoenkrung Road, Bangkok, open daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.) A boutique shopping arcade housed in a neo-classical building, with more than 50 retail shops selling everything from Asian antiques to handicrafts, and form home décor items to fine jewelry and art. The complex also houses the Aksra Theater and Ramayana restaurant.

Terminal 21

(●Asok BTS station, open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.) Terminal 21 will make you feel as though you are constantly traveling. With architecture designed to resemble an airport terminal, each of its nine floors will take you to a different city, from Carnaby Street in London to San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf. Terminal 21 is the newest lifestyle shopping mall in Bangkok, and it will give you a slightly different shopping experience from that offered by other malls thanks to its numerous privately owned retail stores, as opposed to the big chains present elsewhere. There are also cozy cafés and restaurants, particularly on the top floors.

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

Chatuchak Weekend Market

Pantip Plaza

(●Rachatewi BTS station, open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.) Located in Phetchaburi road, close to the Platinum Fashion Mall, this shopping plaza is a paradise for all tech enthusiasts in Bangkok. Laptops, cameras, smartphones, tablets, memory cards, and every other possible high-tech gadget can be found in its five-story building. The range of quality is also wide; it is possible to find both original products as well as “same same” ones. The best way to be certain of the authenticity of the goods is to buy from official resellers. On the fifth floor, IT City offers quality products and, at a large open space on the ground floor, there is a promotion almost every day. A small food court is located on the first floor. Avoid Pantip Plaza during weekends if you don’t like big crowds.

(●Mo Chit BTS station, open Saturdays and Sundays 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.) When the shopping experience in Bangkok starts looking repetitive after jumping from one shopping mall to the next, paying a visit to Chatuchak Weekend Market—also known as J.J. by locals—is worthwhile. This is one the largest open-air markets in the world and, because if its intricate little streets and the variety of products it offers, it can easily compete with the world-famous Arab souks. Anything you can possibly imagine can be found in this market, from clothes and shoes to typical Thai handicrafts; from pets and vintage leather items to glassware and bed linen. Lose yourself in its alleys and enjoy every stand and corner, try the food, and remember that at J.J. bargaining is not only suggested, but compulsory.

MBK

(●National Stadium BTS station , open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.) Mahboonkrong, or MBK, is the mall to go to and experience how Bangkokians like to shop. Once the largest shopping mall in Asia, MBK is loved by tourists and by Thais, who make up more than half its daily visitors. Conveniently located at the intersection of Phaya Thai Road and Rama I Road, it is easy to reach by BTS. The first three floors are dedicated to clothes and shoes, but cosmetics and beauty products can be found, too. The fourth floor is dedicated to electronics, and many official stores can be found there. On the fifth and sixth floors, different cuisines can be tasted, close to where you can find high-tech, furniture, and souvenir shops. And the last two upper floors are dedicated to entertainment: cinema, bowling, and karaoke.

Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2014 It’s no news that Thailand is one of the shopping capitals of the world. And from June 15 to August 15 it will live up to its promise by offering up to 80 percent discount on products in department stores, hotels, resorts, restaurants, and tourist attractions nationwide, during the Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2014 (●www. thailandshoppingparadise.com). Clothing, accessories, Thai handicrafts, electrical appliances and more will be on sale at discounted prices in cities like Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, Hay Yai, Koh Samui, Hua Hin, and Pattaya. Hotels and restaurants will also offer discounts on their products and services to cater for the shopaholics’ needs. Participating department stores in Ratchaprasong area will offer a diverse selection of products, especially brand names, at incredible bargain prices. Tip: Check for promotions available with your credit card for this campaign.

JUNE 2014 | 51

LIFESTYLE FEATURE

Central Embassy

(●Ploenchit BTS station, open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.) Paying homage to traditional Thai temples, Central Embassy’s 200 meters of stunning façade are constructed of shimmering shingles that punctuate the continuous, rippled frontage. Comprising an eight-story retail podium, verdant sky terraces and a six-star hotel tower, this luxury shopping mall offers bridge fashion and designer brands; watches and jewelry; cafes, bakeries, and restaurants; spas; home, décor and technology stores, and much more.

Erawan

(●Chiltom BTS station, open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; restaurants open from 8 a.m. until midnight) Erawan Bangkok is a new concept “boutique mall” specifically designed to cater to and service the needs of sophisticated urban chic lifestyles. Located in the major shopping district on the corner of Ratchaprasong Square, which attracts several million tourists and office workers a year, the mall includes Urban Kitchen, a meeting point where city dwellers can enjoy selections of 13 ethnic cuisines and tastes; luxury fashion and accessories; and wellness and beauty centers.

King Power Downtown Duty Free Mall

(●Victory Monument BTS station, open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.) Located in Rang Nam Road, not far from Victory Monument BTS station, King Power Complex is the downtown duty-free store of the King Power International Group. It is the place to go for famous international brands, such as Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, and Lacoste, among others. Besides shopping, the complex is also worth a visit for its modern architecture, made of glass and steel. Promotions and discounts are offered to guests of the Pullman hotel, and a pick-up service is provided to and from many hotels, mainly in the city center. The complex also houses the Aksra Theater and Ramayana restaurant.

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

Gaysorn Shopping Centre

(●Chitlom BTS station Gaysorn is a luxury mall that offers international lifestyle brands, from flagship stores to luxurious brands from around the world, and stylish fashion and accessories by luxury Thai brands. To enhance the visitors’ shopping experience, Gaysorn has a dedicated team of valets and concierges. It offers apparel, shoes and handbags, jewelry and accessories, gadgets, home accessories, food and wine options, and more.

River City

(●23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Si Phaya Pier, Yota Road, Sampantawong, open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; restaurants open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.) River City describes itself as a “picturesque shopping experience.” Located by the Chao Phraya River, this shopping complex offers lifestyle shops; river cruises dinner cruises, and cruise tours; arts and antiques; an auction house; performances and exhibitions; a sky walk, and a grand hall that integrates both Thai and European architectural styles.

Asiatique The Riverfront

(●2194 Charoenkrung Rd., Wat Prayakrai, Bangkoleam, open daily from 5 p.m. until midnight.) Located by the Chao Phraya River on what use to be a pier that started international trade between the Kingdom of Siam (Thailand’s former name) and European nations back in the 1900s, Asiatique The Riverfront has shops that offer Thai handicrafts, fashion accessories, and furniture, among other products, and it has bars, restaurants, and entertainment.

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Dave Stamboulis

LIFESTYLE FEATURE

HIPSTER SHOPPING at Talad Rot Fai

angkok is renowned for its upscale shopping malls like Siam Paragon, Terminal 21, and Central World, not to forget the very latest addition of Central Embassy—all of which are (justifiably) as famed for their cold air conditioning during the hot summer months as for their designer goods. But a great alternative to the generic indoor mall look is a visit to the stylish and fun retro market at Talad Rot Fai (●Sri Nakarin Soi 51 (behind Seacon Square), 081 827 5885, www.facebook. com/TaradRodFi, open Wednesdays and weekends from 4 p.m. till midnight). Talad Rot Fai is also known as Talad Dek Neaw (hipsters’ or “cool people’s” market!), but the original name (which means “train market”) comes from the startup of this retro goods and antique market, begun when the owner of a chic antique shop at Chatuchak Market decided to relocate. Thanayut “Troy,” the boss

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

Find from ABBA records to G.I. Joe soldiers at Bangkok’s biggest hub for antiques and retro goods by Dave Stamboulis

a large 50 rai property just behind Seacon Square on Sri Nakarin Road, and despite initial thoughts that vendors wouldn’t move all the way across town, nor would customers enjoy coming to a fairly far out location, the new retro market has taken off to just as much popularity and good fortune, and is once again the place to go retro shopping on weekends. Talad Rot Fai will make frequenters of U.S. flea markets feel right at home. Here one will find ABBA records and plenty of other ancient vinyl, old clocks, telephones, and bar signs, plastic Ultraman and G.I. Joe toy soldiers, roller skates, furniture out of a “Leave It to Beaver” episode, and plenty of antiques, from cars to lamps and everything including the kitchen sink. Clothing includes cowboy boots, vintage skirts and dresses, and just about anything the modern-day Thai retro hipster would love. Retro is all the rage in Thailand at the moment, and in addition to all the vintage clothing and bric-a-brac, there is plenty of high-end antique furniture, ranging

from beautiful wooden tables and dressers to all types of carved tableware, sculpted knives. The selection includes lots of well preserved pieces from Germany and Denmark easy to spot. Other shops here sell secondhand books, toys, hand printed t-shirts, decades-old gramophone records, and plenty else. There are over 2,000 stalls at Talad Rot Fai, and the market is now Bangkok’s biggest hub for antiques. In addition to the furniture section, there are plenty of vintage cars, bikes, and scooters on display, and even old gasoline pumps and filling station memorabilia to go with them. The new area of Talad Rot Fai is bigger than the Chatuchak location, so market-goers don’t have to fight crowds and space, which is often a detriment to enjoying outdoor markets in Thailand, and all of the popular VW cocktail bars and cool food hangouts are still in business, offering cheap and delicious food and drinks. Some of the cafés and antique bars are well situated for just hanging out and people watching, and the prices here for a mojito, margarita, or bottle of Singh are still at a fraction of those you’ll encounter on Thong Lor and Silom, with a far more interesting vibe to boot. Granted, there’s no air con, but hey, the market is at night, with all those cool breezes blowing in from the southwest, and summer is now belching out its last fumes, so head on out for some hipster shopping.

Dave Stamboulis

of Rod’s, an antique shop cum bar cum restaurant that was part of the Chatuchak scene, wanted a bit more space for his operation, and he set out to find a suitable nearby venue. He rented out an empty warehouse on land owned by the State Railway of Thailand, site of some former train tracks and rusty carriages, and set up shop. As the property was so enormous, Troy invited some of his vendor friends from Chatuchak to come sell their stuff there, free of charge. Word got out, and soon loads of vendors set up camp. Eventually, Troy started charging vendors to sell, and most interestingly, even more folks came to peddle their wares, and the market became thronged with visitors. The original site had empty train carriages that shoppers could hang out in, drinking beer and watching the world go by, and loads of vendors set up impromptu tricked-out VW bus bars, offering cheap cocktails and beer, as well as plenty of charm to go along with the amazing collection of retro items for sale. However, all of this came to a crashing halt a bit over a year ago when the lease with Thai State Railways expired and the area was slated for development of a future BTS Skytrain line. The vendors protested their removal, but the developers went in anyway and demolished stalls, and efforts to find a suitable nearby replacement site didn’t work. However, the owners of Rod’s found

JUNE 2014 | 55

AEW

LIFESTYLE THE HEDONIST

NETWORKING FOR THE BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE They have limited members and are somewhat secret. Meet the world’s most high-end online social networks.

t. Moritz, Switzerland, 2011. A friendship club was formed among a few people sharing similar interests and helping each other open doors for business and personal matters, with its main asset being a contact list with very good connections. Two years later, anexclusiveworld.net (AEW) was born— it’s one of a few global high-end social networks that you might have heard of, and that you are secretly hoping to get an invite for … with no luck. Being part of these exclusive online social networks where le beau monde—including models, businessmen, millionaires, and celebrities, among other common mortals—mingles before meeting in person is not easy, and that won’t change. As AEW’s business development manager, Peter Schmidlin, explains, the

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

by Anita Zaror value of these communities being membervetted lies in the fact that their members want to feel they are part of a trusted community. “At AEW we offer a regulated, safe environment where we do not sell or misuse our members’ data. The most important thing is that they do not want to meet any random people, but trusted people in a trusted surrounding—people with the same interests, the same problems, who are facing the same challenges in life. In our modern days of platforms like Twitter and Facebook, a lot of people ‘publish’ their lives to the open public. That is when closed, highend networks are sought. The fact that our members live after the principle of social arbitrage, where they support each other in all kind of areas, makes it much

more attractive. Another value is that our members get to know each other faster and better than in any public network,” he explains. How would you like to test drive the newest Tesla car? Or access exclusive events worldwide such celebrity parties, award ceremonies, galas, movie premieres, film festivals, and fashion weeks? You can if you are a member of AEW and visit its Opportunities section, where the focus is “not to offer common privileges like discounts, but more that the members most likely help other members thrive and open doors.” AEW lives up to principles of sharing access to people and venues, exchanging favors and trusted intelligence, as well as opening backdoors to its members on a not-for-profit basis, supported by donating

“social arbitrage” that Schmidlin referred to: “How to invest when you are an expat?”; “The French Riviera”; “Attractive, intelligent, successful … yet single?”; “Desert adventure”; “Looking for work opportunities in Paris”; “Confessions of a serial expatriate”; and “Zurich ASWers catch up!” are just a few posted to the site. But what role do these high-end online communities play in shaping offline relationships? “They are a getaway for successful, broad-minded people. Mostly businessmen and women who would like to meet and exchange opinions, and share opportunities with other sophisticated people online,” assures Schmidlin. According to him, these online networks are required to bring the right people together, and they do so by taking those online acquaintances to an offline level through real-life get-togethers. ASMALLWORLD also organizes around 50 events worldwide a month, the most recent in Bangkok celebrated April 5 at Whisgars (●www.whisgars.com). A third high-end social network seeking to cultivate online socializing with people who share similar interests and passions is BestofAllWorlds.com (BOAW). Based in Stockholm and founded

by Erik and Louise Wachtmeister—the original founders of ASMALLWORLD— BOAW is also by invitation only. It is targeted at entrepreneurs and influencers, and it aims to “return relevance, trust, and usefulness to the online world,” according to its website. When asked how many members they have, these networks are reserved. The word got out that ASW used to have around 800,000 members worldwide until the re-launch, when the figure was reduced 75 percent to keep only the crème de la crème. All in all, quality over quantity is the principle. Or, as Schmidlin says, “We try to have as few members as possible, but as devoted as possible.” Both ASW and BOAW already have members in Asia, but this is a market that AEW will start developing in Q4 2014, with the help of local ambassadors. What does it take to become a member of one of these high-end online communities? “A valuable personal network is the most important asset a cosmopolitan person can possess,” says Schmidlin. And, like in the diamond–water paradox, this seems to be true: money won’t get you a membership, but a good contact might.

AEW

members. In the meantime, other private networks such as ASMALLWORLD. net (ASW), founded in 2004 and relaunched in 2013, are subscription-based (USD 105 annually). But to cultivate that distinct sense of trust ASW describes as “atypical to digital platforms,” membership in the network still requires an invitation from an existing member, or an approved membership application by its international committee of trustees. An altruistic sense of purpose is also supported by what ASW calls its “inherently conscientious community” through the ASMALLWORLD Foundation. This “international members-only travel and social club” offers lifestyle content to its members, and gives them benefits from more than 500 luxury partners as well as the possibility of networking in more than 100 cities around the world. Its privileges include, for example, an annual membership card to The World’s Finest Clubs (●www.finestclubs.com) and a complimentary week-stay in a five-star resort in Saint Kitts and Nevis. Just the titles of the discussions had by thousands of ASW members on its forums confirm the presence of the

JUNE 2014 | 57

LIFESTYLE SPA DEALS

Spa Indulgence @ the Cliff Spa

What: This month, Cliff Spa provides you the option of enhancing and upgrading your spa experience! 90-minute treatments (chosen from their a la carte menu only) can be upgraded to 120-minute treatments with a choice of any of 30-minute De-stress Facial Massage, Foot Massage, or Purifying Back Massage. When:From now until June 3 Where: Royal Cliff Hotels Group How much: Varies More info: www.royalcliff.com, www.peachthailand.com

Wellness and Weight Loss Retreats at Thanyapura What: Thanyapura Health has unveiled a menu of weight loss retreats and life transformation 10- and 14-night programs, that get guests in the right weight range as they learn about healthy ways to exercise and eat via a personal health and fitness consultation. When: Ongoing Where: Thanyapura Sports Hotel How much: 10-night weight loss package (including accommodation) at THB 101,000; 14-night package (including accommodation) at THB 143,000. More info: 076 336 000,  www.thanyapura.com

TIME TO HAPPINESS AT SPA VILLA

Time To Happiness At Spa Villa

What: Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas has designed a combination of the treatments at “Spa Villa,” for spa lovers. Relax, as they help you to maintain flexibility and suppleness, improve inner balance, and give you an outer glow. Choose between the “Time to Relax 120 minutes” (60 minutes relaxing aroma massage and 60 minutes relaxing foot massage) or the “Time to Memory 120 minutes” (45 minutes Thai traditional herbal scrub, 60 minutes aroma fusion massage, and 15 minutes scalp massage with coconut oil). When: From now until June 30 Where: Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas How much: THB 3,990 net per person More info: 032 909 900, www.sheratonhuahinpranburi.com

Siamese Therapeutic Wisdom Buy-1 Get-1 Free! What: Find relief from aches caused by stress and tension, and find your body’s natural energy and equilibrium through the Siamese Therapeutic Wisdom, which combines the ancient wisdom of Thai massage with the modern knowledge of anatomy and physiology. In this treatment, therapists focus on the core of the problem by kneading away obstructions in the five primary stress areas—head, neck, shoulders, upper, and lower back—, while utilizing pain relieving ointments, hot compresses, deep stretching, rubbing, and acupressure. A truly fantastic wellness experience to be enjoyed during two and a half hours. When: From now until July 31 Where: At all Oasis Spa’s branches How much: THB 4,600++. Buy-1-Get-1 Free when you begin your treatment before noon. More info: 02 262 2122, www.oasisspa.net

Lookeast | Lifestyle

COMPLIMENTARY WELLNESS TREATMENTS FOR GUESTS

Complimentary Wellness Treatments for Guests

What: Conrad Koh Samui, winner of the Best Luxury Wellness Spa Award in Thailand by the World Luxury Spa Awards 2014, is offering its guests a wide variety of complimentary daily wellness programs, including tai chi and pilates, and spa workshop activities that will allow you to learn the D.I.Y. body scrubbing, nourishing hair mask, or Thai stretching techniques for neck and shoulder, during your stay, while enjoying a luxurious spa experience at the resort. When: Ongoing Where: Conrad Koh Samui How much: Varies More info: conrad_koh_samui@ conradhotels.com, www.conradkohsamui.com

OR'S EDITIC K P

ADVERTORIAL

Omroom

LIFESTYLE WELLNESS

Bangkok’s Little Spiritual Haven How to take responsibility for your life through Omroom’s Qi Gong, yoga, meditation, workshops, and private healing.

“O

m” in Sanskrit is the primordial sound. Buddhists have used Om to chant mantras for thousands of years; the sound reverberates at 136.1 Hz and activates a vibrational frequency that stimulates your pineal and pituitary glands. As the vibrations affect your body fluids and Qi (vital energy), they course through your meridians to affect your physical, mental, and energy bodies. This can be very therapeutic, healthy, and vitalizing. Western doctors can repair physical symptoms but have traditionally not considered the body and mind as a dynamic system where each part is related to the whole. As quantum theories have advanced, science has started to realize that there is more to health than what goes on in the physical body. Our biology

is also affected by the tiniest changes in energies around us, and the mind and energy systems within the body itself have a profound affect on our physical health. Science has also demonstrated that our true reality is a holographic reflection of our consciousness and our entire universe reacts to how we observe it. The conclusion, as mind-boggling and paradigm-changing as it may seem, is that all is one and everything is interconnected. This is where such wonderful and unorthodox solutions as the sound of Om can have a positive effect. Energy is all we are, and when we alter this state through our intention to heal and apply energies to our problems, such as by using sounds, we can have a profound affect on health without drugs and without surgery, and we can avoid the painful healing crises that can occur with conventional medicine. Helping people heal in unconventional

ways is what we do at Omroom (●8th Floor, Alma Link Building, 25 Soi Chidlom, Bangkok, www.omroom.net, consult@ omroom.net), and we do it effectively, without drugs, and with less trauma. We are a cozy little place for you to discover all this cutting-edge information, where you can form your own opinion, with a fair and rounded view of what is helpful to you and what is not. We gather a community of practitioners and students who are interested to learn more and to empower themselves with daily exercises like Qi Gong, yoga, meditation, workshops, and private healing. Our job is to help you transform your life and to take responsibility for your health and, by doing so, take control of your life.

JUNE 2014 | 59

Marriott Sukhumvit

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

FROM “HELL’S KITCHEN” TO THE DISTRICT Canadian chef Chris Irving recently arrived in Bangkok from the Gordon Ramsay Group to bring a splash of style to Marriott Sukhumvit’s steakhouse.

by Neil Dunphy

eeping up with Canadian chef Chris Irving isn’t easy. He has worked for Gordon Ramsay and cooked all over the world for both the official British royal family as well as the unofficial one, the Beckhams. But such a gilded CV belies the seriousness of the man and the art of his cooking. Find out for yourself at The District Grill Room & Bar at the Marriott Sukhumvit (●57 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok), where Irving is guest starring for the foreseeable future. Having earned his stripes in Vancouver, in 2005 Irving bought a one-way ticket to London to “get my ass kicked,” as he describes it. Part of the

Lookeast | wine & dine

team that helped Marcus Wareing earn his second Michelin star, he opened his own restaurant in Vancouver before returning to London and a senior position overseeing Ramsay’s empire of London eateries. Phew. Seeking a new challenge, Irving recently arrived in Bangkok to bring a splash of style to the menu at The District, bringing a selection of dishes that are closest to his heart. See him in action for yourself in the open plan kitchen, surrounded by an attentive, if slightly starstruck, team of Thai cooks. The menu certainly complements the eatery’s jazzy vibe. It took Lookeast more than three hours to make it through a selection of the menu; the portions are

man-sized and substantial, yet light enough to enable us to finish with a mound of his apple tarte Tatin (THB 350). We licked our plates clean. “It’s all about working to bring out the integrity of the ingredients,” Irving says of his overall philosophy. To start, we tried the immaculately cooked grilled yellow fin tuna (THB 750) with fennel, coriander and black sesame. The no-frills celery root soup (THB 410) was enlivened by strips of Alaskan crab, while the tomato gazpacho (THB 450) with red mullet was a candidate for dish of the evening. Chris pointed out that “cold soup” has been a bit of a hard sell to the Asian clientele, yet the unadventurous don’t know what they’re missing. Hard pressed to reveal what gives the soup its oomph, he would only say, “It’s the taste of a happy kitchen working together.” I’m sure Ramsay would be appalled at such a love-in. One of the chef’s signature dishes is the espresso-braised beef short rib (THB 890). Marinated for six hours in red wine, the meat melts off the bone but stands up for itself with a powerful coffee kick. The Australian Angus Tomahawk prime rib (THB 4,200, can serve two) had this carnivore in culinary nirvana, the panroasted wild Pacific halibut (THB 1,050) adorned with pork belly pieces and garlic puree was a counterintuitive delight. As he’s only a blow-in to Bangkok, one senses Irving will stick around until the next challenge presents itself. Catch him while you can.

Co., Ltd.

Books can be purchased online directly from the publisher.

www.wolfendenpublishing.com Orders with a Bangkok mailing address same day delivery.

"I love all of Harold Stephens books"

— Han Suyin, Author of A Many-Splendoured Thing

“Autographed copies available at the Kisok, The Mandarin Oriental Hotel”

Lucie Barke

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

SEASON IT UP Le Du Restaurant + Wine Bar keeps changing … every season. by Lucie Barke

Lucie Barke

Lookeast | wine & dine

e Du Restaurant + Wine Bar (●399/3 Silom Soi 7, Bangrak, Bangkok (Chong Nonsi BTS exit 4), 09 291 999 69, www.ledubkk.com) opened its doors in November 2013, and the venue could not have picked a better name to represent the magic its four chefs work in the kitchen, as Le Du means “season” in Thai. Going to Le Du is a new experience anytime of the year. As you pass by the glass wall between the kitchen and the dining area, showing both honesty in their cooking and style in the plating of the dishes, you’ll always be welcomed with a new menu that changes according to seasonal produce. Le Du is a dual concept restaurant that serves up European bistro-style menus for lunch and modern Thai-inspired dinners in the evening. The best way to enjoy and discover Le Du’s seasonal food statements is by choosing the four-course menu (one starter, one dish “from the forest and sea,” one “from the ranch,” and one dessert for THB 990) or a seven-course menu (one amuse bouche, two starters, three main

courses, and one dessert, at THB 1,590), being both a true gastronomic experience, that is also possible to indulge in with wine pairings (THB 990 and THB 1590, additionally, in each case), selected by their certified sommelier. The pairings feature wines from around the world. Those of you with a smaller appetite can also pick any a la carte dish on the menu. There are a range of prices: from THB 250 marinated oysters, corn mousse, pickled grill corn, and tapioca pudding, to THB 1,200 Australian Wagyu beef, scallion crêpe, hoisin, and petite cabbage. One thing that is really interesting about this restaurant is that all its products are sourced locally, while the techniques applied to the preparations come mainly from abroad. Take the ant larvae, dried local tuna, herbs, caramel, cream of toasted coconut, and leaves dish. Yes, you read it right. Quite a surprising starter that is both loyal to Thais’ relish for eating certain insects and equally satisfying for a more traditional palate. The fried ant larvae are light and crispy, while the dried tuna has a rich, strong taste while still being moist. And the balance between the sweetness of the caramel and the velvety texture of the coconut cream is really well thought out— we could have eaten plate after plate of it, to be honest. It might be challenging to make your mind up when it comes to the main course, If you choose to pick something “from the forest,” you may want to go for the local porcini, pickled oyster mushroom, gourd, chicken skin, and chlorophyll. If you are more into meat, you may select something “from the ranch,” such as the chicken cooked sous vide, which keeps it perfectly moist and juicy. The cherry on the cake is a piece of artwork on its own: dessert. Could you ever think that pork blood could taste like salted caramel? Well, it does on the pork blood pudding, almond sablé, black tapioca pearl, and caramel gel dish. It might seem risky to present a dessert that contains mainly pork blood, but “chapeau bas,” as we say in French (hats off). Not only does it work … it’s delicious! Open Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Closed on Sunday.

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

THE REBEL IN THE HERITAGE HOUSE This is how Danish chef Morten Bojstrup Nielsen is pleasing—and surprising—commensals as Dusit Thani Bangkok’s new Group Chef of Thai Cuisine. by Laurence Civil

Lookeast | wine & dine

fish and green mango salad; to keep the crispness of the catfish it’s presented in a clear glass cone that sits on the tom yam custard with crab meat. Once on the table, the crispy catfish is shaken on the custard— it’s a dish best eaten by driving the spoon to the bottom of the bowl and scooping upward to get all the complex flavor. Non-traditional seared foie gras acquires a Thai accent when dressed in a pineapple, tamarind, and fresh ginger sauce. Nielsen serves his gung satay off the stick: river prawn with peanut sauce, satay spices, and cauliflower purée. He slow-cooks a succulent beef rib on bone and serves it with an aromatic green curry gravy, for contemporary plating with an authentic taste. Dinner concludes with basil ice cream and a perfectly ripe fresh pineapple. The rebel with a cause: the global evolution of Thai cuisine.

Jesper Haynes

oreign chefs successfully cooking Thai cuisine have ruffled the feathers of some Thai traditionalists, but Thai cooking is not a geographically protected food style, so it’s fair game, especially considering the results these chefs are achieving. Now a rebel has turned up in the Heritage House of Dusit Thani Bangkok (●946 Rama IV Rd, Bangkok, 02 200 9999 ext 2699) with the appointment of new Group Chef of Thai Cuisine, Morten Bojstrup Nielsen. His mission is to change without changing, to revamp the Benjarong brand with its deep, classic roots, and give it a flourish that marries the best of Thai cuisine with New World innovation. The award-winning Danish chef, who worked at David Thompson’s Nahm and at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin in Bangkok, specializes in combining modern techniques with traditional flavor profiles to produce contemporary dishes that are distinctly Thai at heart. Based in the flagship Benjarong branch at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, he oversees the kitchen, the group’s global Thai taste headquarters to develop the next generation of Dusit Thai’s global culinary talent. The culinary journey begins with deep-fried tom yam flavored taro chips, which make a perfect bar snack to accompany the restaurant’s signature Margarita Thai cocktail. Scallop and papaya with lemongrass and coconut milk had intriguing layers of taste. The dish also incorporated diced slow-cooked chicken, with tongue-tingling smoked chilli tomato jam and crispy skin. The next course came in two components. Soup river prawns, shimeji mushrooms and coriander were sitting in the bowl, and the perfectly extracted hot and sour soup was poured on top from individual jugs. The second element was a deconstructed yam pla duk foo, a crispy

Zachary Gomes

EGGCEPTIONAL!

This is how Hilltribe Organics is both helping hundreds of families and providing diners with a healthier organic option for eggs in Thailand. by Zachary Gomes

Lookeast | wine & dine

produce eggs as an extra source of income. Since joining, Aso, father of three young children, has been able to more than double his income, offering him security and the ability to guarantee his children an education beyond Mattayom 3 in Chiang Rai. In return, Aso and his family's wellcared for hens deliver some of Thailand’s most purely organic eggs, packed with vitamins and rich in flavor. Indeed, each of Hilltribe Organics’ eggs comes from a family free-ranging their chickens on pastures ranging from grassy fields to fruit orchards, to vegetable patches, river runs, and wild forest. The chickens eat unique diets and the results are fresh eggs with exceptional taste. “Not only does HTO have a great story to tell, but behind it lie eggs of quality,” said Chalee Kader, head chef of Surface Kitchen in Bangkok as well as food stylist and consultant. “I was introduced to this product not very long ago and to my surprise found an egg that looks great and has an excellent taste. When broken onto

a plate you could immediately see the difference in quality--strong albumen and beautiful yolk. I have personally switched to using HTO eggs in all the restaurants I own and consult for, and even at home. Truly worth it.” Along with Surface, well-respected Bangkok eating establishments like Karmakamet Diner and Tribeca Restobar are making Hilltribe Organics’ free-range and socially conscious eggs part of their menus. Villa Supermarkets now carry Hilltribe Organics eggs, joining the array of genuinely natural foods for retail sale at stores across Thailand, including Bangkok, Hua Hin, Pattaya, Lad Krabang, Udon Thani, Chiang Rai, Koh Samui, Phuket, and Trang. Hilltribe Organics Tel. 090-914-9090 www.hilltribeorganics.com www.facebook.com/hilltribeorganics sales@hilltribeorganics.com Instagram @hilltribeorganics

Zachary Gomes

t is still early morning as the sun peeks over the Mae Suay mountains of Chiang Rai. Rays alight on a long building of thatched grass and bamboo, slanting golden through the walls of rice straw. Inside, Aso Cheugong and his wife are serving breakfast—a feast of organic grains for their flock of free-range chickens. The Cheugongs and their feathered wards are several kilometers from the nearest village so, at this early hour, the only sounds to be heard come from the chickens enjoying breakfast and the call of wild birds from across the mountain valley. Later, as they do every day, the flock will spend the day running about freely in their secluded mountainside pasture. Thus their daily diet also includes what they find tasty, be it worms, seeds, guava, longan, pineapple, or whatever else they choose. Aso is one of the first farmers to work for Hilltribe Organics, an organization that offers underprivileged hill tribe families free laying hens and free organic feed to

JUNE 2014 | 67

WINE&DINE DINING SPECIALS

The St. Regis Chengdu Spices Up Bangkok

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

What: The St. Regis Chengdu sent three of its top chefs to participate in the Sichuan Cuisine promotion held at The St. Regis Bangkok, to demonstrate Chengdu’s world-famous Sichuan cuisine. Set to open in July 2014, The St. Regis Chengdu will feature six destination restaurants and bars inspired by Chengdu’s prestigious position as the first Asian city to win a UNESCO listing as a City of Gastronomy. When: July 2014 Where: Chengdu, China How much: Varies More info: www.stregis.com

Yamazato Celebrates Classic Japanese Love Story

Mango Festival at Cape Dara Resort Pattaya

What: Radius restaurant invites you to beat the heat and taste our all-time favorite mango festival. Chef Yongyuth proudly presents a selection of mouth watery mango menus including, Tiger prawn with mango salsa, Smoked salmon and mango wasabi, Spicy Mango salad with seafood and more. Finish your meal with mango dessert such as Banana tart with mango sauce or Mango with Sticky Rice. ‘Mango Festival’ promotion is available every day at When: Daily from now until July 31, from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Where: Radius restaurant, Cape Dara Resort Pattaya How much: Starts at THB 155 net More info: 038 933 888, www.capedarapattaya.com

Lookeast | wine & dine

Saturday Night Dinner

What: Thai classical music performance and all-you- can eat authentic Thai cuisine dinner prepared featuring spicy chicken with Thai herb salad; shrimp salad with lemongrass and mint; hot and spicy coconut soup with tilapia fish; minced chicken and shrimp wrapped in egg-net, etc. When: Every Saturday from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Where: Am café, Ambassador Hotel Bangkok How much: THB 599++ per person More info: fbmbkk@amtel.co.th, www.amtel.cot.h

Unlimited Dim Sum Dinner

What: Bau Yun is offering the “Unlimited Dim Sum Dinner” available daily, at dinner. The All-You-Can-Enjoy menu includes more than forty items to choose from, including; egg yolk in crystal bun, steamed molten gold-filled bun, steamed fresh scallop and shrimp wonton, steamed pork ribs, Chinese olive, shrimp, canton kale, tofu sheet roll, crisp tofu sheet, Seafood Combinatio. Cold appetizers and soup, a choice of rice or noodles, and dessert are are also available. When: Daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch; from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. for dinner Where: Bai Yun (●60th floor, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Road) How much: THB 1,200++ per person More info: 02 679 1200

Banyan Tree Bangkok

Cape Dara Resort Pattaya

What: Tanabata celebrates a Japanese love story about the weaving princess Orihime and her love for Hikoboshi. Legend states that Orihime and Hikoboshi may only meet once a year on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month, and Yamazato brings these legendary characters together with the celebration of Kaiseki and Gozen menus. When: From June 29 to July 7, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Where: Yamazato, The Okura Prestige Bangkok How much: Gozen lunch menu at THB 800++ per person; seven-course Kaiseki dinner menu at THB 3,000 per person More info: 02 687 9000, yamazato@okurabangkok.com

Anantara Bangkok Riverside

Sofitel So Bangkok

Truffles Promotion

What: Visit Park Society rooftop restaurant and bar, on Sofitel So Bangkok’s 29th floor, for an exclusive highlight menu that uses fine truffles from around the world. This five-course set menu was prepared by Park Society’s Chef de Cuisine, Angela Brown. When: From now until July 31 Where: Park Society, Sofitel So Bangkok How much: Five courses at THB 3,999++ per person More info: 02 624 0000, H6835-FB5@Sofitel.com

Benihana’s Special Birthday Party Packages

What: Birthday celebrations are full of delicious eastern “eatertainment” at Benihana, with three special birthday party packages available every day for lunch and dinner, designed for families, friends, and colleagues looking for a gourmet Japanese dining occasion, as well as children wanting a party with fun games. When: Ongoing Where: Benihana, Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa How much: THB 999++ per person; Benihana Birthday Extravaganza at THB 1,299++ per person; the Benihana Children’s Birthday Party at THB 599++ per child More info: 02 476 0022 ext. 1416, riversidedining@anantara.com, www.bangkokriverdining.com

Delicious Weekday Lunch

Sheraton Hua Hin

What: Dusit Thani Bangkok’s Hamilton’s Steak House is offering a new special set lunch menu during the week. Different set menus are available every day. When: Every Monday to Friday Where: Hamilton’s Steak House, Dusit Thani Bangkok How much: THB 750++ for a two-course meal and THB 950++ for three courses More info: www.dusit.com

Crowne Plaza

Fabulous Burgers at Luna Lanai

Discounts for Dining at Crowne Plaza

What: Exclusively 20 percent discount at Short Cuts Deli (G level) on bakery and food for guests at Xin Tian Di restaurant (level 22), and Panorama all-daydining restaurant (level 23). Just present your dining receipt to Short Cuts Deli and get the discount. When: Ongoing Where: Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park How much: Varies More info: www.crowneplazabkk.com

What: The famous beef burger is a bestseller all over the world, but the chefs at Luna Lanai have created some more fabulous choices made with chicken, lamb, and pork or shrimp meat. Served on a home baked sesame bun and with various toppings, all come with golden fried steak fries, sliced tomato, lettuce and cornichons. A real treat for burger lovers. When: Daily from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Where: Luna Lanai Beachfront Bar and Restaurant How much: Varies More info: www.sheratonhuahin. com JUNE 2014 | 69

Wine Dinner at Café Claire

What: Enjoy an exclusive wine dinner at Café Clair with an exquisitely created French menu by executive chef Nattakit, together with Georges Duboeuf wine pairings for each course. Some dishes include fillet steak Diane flambé in cognac with onion and mushroom sauce; salmon supreme flambé in vodka on artichoke and shitake risotto with a caviar butter sauce, and other delicacies paired with Duboeuf Suvignon Blanc VDP Val de Loire, Duboeuf Domaine Chenvierer Macon Villages AOC, Duboeuf Domaine des Rosiers Moulin A Vent AOC, and other preferred choices. When: June 21 Where: Café Claire, Oriental Residence Bangkok How much: Four-course set menu at THB 3,000 net per person More info: 02 125 900 ext. Café Claire

Happy Hours at Samutr Bar

What: Amari Phuket introduces the allnew Samutr Bar offering daily happy hour for all beverages, except wine and coffee. When: Daily from 5–7 p.m. and 9–11 p.m. Where: Samutr Bar, Amari Phuket How much: Varies More info: 076 340 106 ext. 8048

Lookeast | wine & dine

Martinis with a Local Twist

What: Inspired by the classic martini, mixologists at The Living Room—one of Bangkok’s premier live jazz venues—have created exotic blends infused with Thai flavors, such as Jasmine Martini, Roselle Cosmo Martini, Thai Basil Colada Martini, Lychee Rose Martini, Banana Martini. When: Ongoing Where: The Living Room, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit How much: THB 290++ per glass More info: 02 649 8353, dining.sgs@ luxurycollection.com

Ladies Night Free-Flow Wines at Cellar 11

What: Ladies, get your friends together and meet at Cellar 11 to enjoy European Bistro cuisine every Tuesday for Ladies Night, where you will be pampered with free-flow red and white wines. When: Every Tuesday from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Where: Cellar 11 Wine Bar & Bistro How much: Free-flow wine free for ladies More info: 02 255 5833–35, www.cellar11.com

All-You-Can-Drink Cocktails

What: Compete with your friends, or just enjoy the drinks at your own pace, at Aloft Hotel’s Cocktail Marathon, where you can drink all you want for three hours. When: Fridays and Saturdays from 9 p.m. until midnight Where: The W XYZ Bar, Aloft Hotel How much: THB 599++ per person More info: 02 207 7000, www.aloftbangkoksukhumvit11.com

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Oriental Residence Bangkok

WINE&DINE BAR SPECIALS

Hi-So Ladies’ Night

What: Every Wednesday, cheers to midweek with Ladies’ Night at HI-SO. All ladies receive one free glass of Chandon to kick off the evening. Cocktails and bottles at special prices. When: Every Wednesday from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. Where: Sofitel So Bangkok How much: Varies More info: 02 624 0000, h6835-fb5@ sofitel.com

Social Wednesday at Ocean Bangkok

What: Wednesday night is social at Ocean Bangkok. Play games, win prizes, and socialize while enjoying the happy hour. When: Every Wednesday from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Where: Ocean Bangkok, Livingstones Urban Boutique Resort How much: Varies More info: 02 630 4000, www.oceanbangkok.com

WINE&DINE THE OENOPHILE

New Latitude Wines The story of PB Valley Khao Yai Winery

raditionally, wine grapes are grown between the latitudes of 30 and 50 degrees in the Northern and Southern hemispheres. In contrast, most of Thailand’s vineyards lie between 14 degrees N and 18 degrees N, a region once considered unsuitable for wine grapes. In fact, at one time, you wouldn’t often hear the words “wine” and “Thailand” in the same sentence. These days, it’s a different story. The birthplace of the Khao Yai wine region in Thailand is only a couple of hours drive up the expressway from Bangkok, to the relatively peaceful countryside at the edge of Khao Yai National Park. Khao Yai means “big mountain” in Thai, and the National Park covers an area of almost 200 square miles with endless hills, evergreen forests, and grasslands.

PB Valley Khao Yai Winery

by Colin Kaye

a million bottles a year. PB Khao Yai Winery currently produces eight wines— the letters “PB” are the initials of Dr. Piya Bhirombhakdi, the founder of the company. The Sawasdee Chenin Blanc and the Sawasdee Shiraz are entry-level wines, and the Chenin is a real charmer, with a lovely aroma of banana, melon, green apple, with hint of orange blossom and almond. The Sawasdee Shiraz has rich aromas of dried apricot, cherry, plum and raspberry, with a dash of cloves and black pepper. For something more complex, they also produce the Khao Yai Reserve range. The PB Khao Yai Reserve Chenin Blanc 2012, for example, is a beautifully balanced and superbly mellow wine with aromas of ripe banana, pineapple, hazelnut, and almond. The top range includes some wines of extraordinary complexity. The Pirom Supremacy 2012 Shiraz Cabernet won a commendation the prestigious 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards, and four of the Reserve range won recognition at the 2013 AWC Vienna International Wine Challenge. No doubt these achievements have gladdened the heart of Dr. Piya Bhirombhakdi, who planted the first vineyard in Kao Yai 25 years ago, as they have helped set Thailand as a serious player internationally when it comes to new latitude wines.

Prayut Piangbunta is Thailand’s first oenologist/winemaker and the Director & Chief Winemaker at Khao Yai Winery, the registered company name for PB Valley Khao Yai Winery (●102 Moo 5, Phaya Yen, Pak Chong Nakorn Ratchasima 30320, 036 226 415–6, www. khaoyaiwinery.com). He produces a range of “new latitude” Thai wines using international varietals like Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Shiraz, and Tempranillo, which of course is normally associated with Spain. The Chenin Blanc, with its natural acidity, adapts well to the local climate, and the Shiraz produces surprisingly elegant and complex wines not unlike their distant Rhône cousins. The winery lies on an 800-acre plantation and, with two fully accredited Thai winemakers and state-of-the-art technology, it has the capacity to produce JUNE 2014 | 71

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