Lookeast Magazine November 2013 by Lookeast Magazine

LIFESTYLE

HOTELS

DINING

NIGHTLIFE

SHOPPING

EVENTS

PERSONALITIES

ART

CULTURE

SPAS

Fashion

EST. 1971

NOVEMBER ISSN 0857-1139

TRAVEL

NOVEMBER 2013

Culture:

The Surin Elephant Roundup

Must-Have Items In Every Woman’s Closet

Shopping! Fashion, food, beauty. It’s all about…

N ovember 2 0 1 3 V O L . 4 2 N O . 1 1

Meditation In

MYANMAR

“The biggest challenge for me is how to get 12 board members to agree on something.” Small Luxury Hotels of the World Chairman Anchalika Kijkanakorn

Business insights: Financial support for MICE

www.lookeastmagazine.com

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WHAT'S INSIDE NOVEMBER

NOVEMBER 2013 CALENDAR

8 What’s On 14 Reel Life 32 Hotel Deals 64 Spa Offers 73 Dining Specials 78 Bar Specials

TRAVEL

16 Pack&Bring: Beach reads and travel gear

18 Culture: The Surin Elephant Roundup 20 Exploring Buddhist meditation in the monasteries of Myanmar 24 Shopping at Chiang Mai’s night markets 30 Mini Guide: Sukhothai 35 Travel News

BUSINESS INSIGHTS

Lookeast | WHAT'S INSIDE

38 Financial support for MICE organizers to hold futures event in Thailand 40 Khon Kaen helps raise Northeast Thailand’s profile for MICE events

HOTELS

42 Cabouchon, Bangkok 44 Cape Dara, Pattaya 80 Hotels directory

WINE&DINE

66 My favorite place: Hua Hin. By Siwat Thitipornwatthanakul, sommelier at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok Restaurants: 68 Hokkai-Don 69 yoomoo 69 Costa Coffee 70 Perfume: Fragrance Bar and Aromatic Cuisine 72 Up & Above 82 Restaurant directory

LIFESTYLE

48 Shopping the traditional and the Thai ways

Personalities: 54 Anchalika Kijkanakorn, MD of Akaryn Hospitality Management Services and Chairman of the Board of Directors of Small Luxury Hotels of the World 56 Bastian Mantey, Executive Chef, St. Regis Hotel Bangkok 58 Fashion: 10 must-have items in every womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet 62 Wellness: Shopping for beauty NOVEMBER 2013 | 3

WORLD-CLASS LUXURY

100 BRANDS MORE THAN 500 FASHION SHOPS WITH OVER

Dave Stamboulis A Greek-American travel writer and professional photographer based in Bangkok. His photos are represented by Getty Images and Alamy, and he is a writer for Fodor’s guidebook to Thailand and Laos, as well as for USA Today’s “Bangkok Expert” travel website. Imtiaz Muqbil Originally from Mumbai, and holding a diploma from the London School of Journalism, he started his career in Kuwait with local English-language newspapers. Since joining the Bangkok Post in 1978, he has expanded his expertise in economy and finance to the tourism industry. Laurence Civil “Life is all about taste and style” are Laurence’s words to live by. Twentythree years working for a British airline gave him his passion for food, wine, and travel, and a visit to China in the ’80s inspired his earlier stories. His articles have been published in Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Bangkok since 1994. Henry Wu A San Francisco photographer and foodie who now lives in Chiang Mai, armed with his passport, a camera, an open sense of humor, and a willingness to eat almost anything. He has traveled extensively through Europe and Southeast Asia and is a contributor of stories about the path less traveled for several blogs. J. McGee J. McGee has worked in education and training for the past 15 years. He took his first vipassanā meditation course in 2001. Work initially brought him to Myanmar in 2007, where he has studied the language and resided in rural monasteries for extended periods. He is working on a book about Burmese Buddhism. Special thanks to: Alisa Hubert Asia Books Burberry Ministry of Hotels and Tourism, Myanmar SF Cinema The Mall Group

Lookeast | EDITORIAL

Other contributors: Alisa Hubert (Photography) Coco Lavender (Wellness) John Lowe (Wine & Dine) Kornkanok Yongsakul (Fashion)

Publisher Sid Sehgal sid@thesehgalgroup.com Editor-in-Chief Anita Zaror editor@lookeastmagazine.com Editorial Assistant Federico Brandi edassistant@lookeastmagazine.com Copyeditor Melanie Blake Art Director Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Production Director Apichart Boontid Marketing Executive Ankita Malhotra ankita@thesehgalgroup.com PR Director Earth Saisawang Executive Assistant to Chairman Acharin Suthisawad acharin@thesehgalgroup.com Executive Assistant to CEO Panitkan Apiratanapimonchai panitkan@thesehgalgroup.com

Chairman Dato Satish Sehgal President Ravi Sehgal Group Publishing Director Asha Narula Sehgal Executive Director Gaurav Sehgal

EST. 1971

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS

EST. 1971

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is published monthly by: Advertising & Media Consultants Co., Ltd. Richmond Office Building 18th floor 75/65 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Tel: + 66 2 204 2449 Fax: + 66 2 204 2984 Email: info@lookeastmagazine.com Web: www.lookeastmagazine.com Views and opinions expressed by individual writers and contributors in the articles herein, do not necessarily reflect those of Lookeast magazine or of Advertising Media Consultants Co., Ltd. All prices are correct at the time of going to press, but are subject to change. Reproduction in whole or part without written consent from Lookeast is strictly forbidden.

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EDITOR'S LETTER

All the reasons we love...

Alisa Hubert

he first time I came to Bangkok, in 2008, I thought to myself, “I love this city… I could live here.” Five years later, I find myself writing this editorial from the 18th floor of a building, with an amazing view of the City of Angels. I’m from Chile, and I’d say that back in those days, coming to Thailand from Latin America was quite an exotic thing to do. Currently, however, I see more and more people arriving here from the other side of the world, and more frequently. Doesn’t it make you wonder why? According to The United Nations World Tourism Organization, international tourism receipts saw an increase of 18 percent in Thailand in 2012. This comes as no surprise, when the country is a hedonist’s paradise: delectable food, pleasant weather, ancient healing massage techniques, and smiling people. And we’ve dedicated this issue of Lookeast to honor a fifth aspect that is in the heart of every Thai and farang in the country: shopping. Small Luxury Hotels of the World’s Chairman, Anchalika Kijkanakorn; St. Regis Bangkok’s Executive Chef, Bastian Mantey; and Four Season’s Sommelier Siwat Thitipornwatthanakul reveal to us

Note from the Publisher It is with great sadness that we say farewell to Percy Roxas as Editor-in-Chief of Lookeast, after 9 wonderful years working together. Percy is responsible in large part for the success of the magazine today, and it has truly been a pleasure to work with him. We wish him the best of luck and success in his future endeavors. And it is with great pleasure that we welcome Anita Zaror on board as our new Editor-in-Chief! Anita has the experience, creativity, and passion that we have been looking for to take Lookeast to the next level. She has incredible plans in store which include a modern design facelift, new editorial sections, fun and interesting articles, and some great stuff for our website and social media. This is an exciting time for all of us, and we thank you for reading Lookeast.

their favorite places to shop. Discover what’s new and hot in Bangkok in our Wine & Dine section, and don’t forget to take the recommendation of our fashion expert if you’re wondering what’s missing in your closet. And if too much shopping overwhelms you, we hope you find the peace of mind and inspiration you are looking for when reading our article about meditation in Myanmar. Two months ago, our former Editorin-Chief wrote on this same page, “The more things change, the more they remain the same.” The magazine you have in your hands now has already updated its look, and there are many more changes to come. And, as today I’ve humbly taken on the challenge to keep bringing our readers reliable, entertaining, and useful information— as Lookeast has done for the past 42 years—I’d like to thank our 8,000 followers on Facebook, our distribution partners, and you, for your loyalty. With the heartfelt passion of a latina, I hope that you enjoy this issue, and I invite you to stay tuned and keep discovering with us all the reasons we love Thailand. Best,

Anita Zaror Editor-in-Chief

Correction The photo on the front cover of our October 2013 edition corresponds to The Chedi Muscat, and not The Chedi Chiang Mai. Our sincere apologies to GHM Hotels for the confusion.

NOVEMBER 2013 | 7

WHAT'S ON NOVEMBER

Art and Culture The Spirit of the Festive Season” Charity Gala Dinner and Concert

What: Dine and take in the “Spirit of the Festive Season” prepared by the executive chefs of InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG) in Thailand. Enjoy the auction and a threecourse dinner paired with champagnes, wines, and whiskies, before the performance of the Bangkok Charity Orchestra, a winner of the Thomson Reuters Community Champion Award 2011, and the first orchestra in Thailand committed to raising funds for charities and to promote cultural activities. Profits from the charity gala dinner and concert will benefit the IHG Shelter in a Storm Foundation, an organization that supports local communities in times of disaster. When: December 6, 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Gala dinner at Pinnacle Hall, 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. concert at Grand Ballroom Where: InterContinental Bangkok (973 Ploenchit Road, Bangkok) How much: Gala dinner and concert,  THB 3,500 net per person; concert only, THB 1,500 net per person More info: bangkok.charity.dinner@ihg.com

The Betters Live, The Beatles Top Tribute Band, at BarSu

What: To celebrate the 50th anniversary of The Beatles’ first LP recording, “Please, Please Me,” Asia’s top tribute band, The Betters, will perform these special shows at BarSu. With a reputation for re-creating the original look and sound of the world’s most loved band, The Betters has been performing Beatles hits since 1999. Their repertoire at BarSu will include a list of all-time favorites such as “Love Me Do”; “Please, Please Me”; “A Hard Day’s Night”; “Ticket to Ride”; “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds”; and many more. When: November 8 and 22 and December 13 and 27. Each performance will feature two 45-minute sets starting at 8 p.m. and 9 p.m., respectively. Where: BarSu, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, ground floor (250 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok) How much: Free entry. Free flow package of beers, cocktails and spirits for THB 650 net per person, or THB 850 net including wines More info: 02 649 8362, dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

WHAT'S ON NOVEMBER

Events and Festivals The Peninsula Bangkok Celebrates Loy Krathong What: Enjoy this festival with a grand party on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. By floating crafted floats made from lotus or banana leaves containing a candle and incense, on the river, misfortunes are said to be washed away dreams become true. At The Peninsula Bangkok’s Loy Krathong celebration, guests will partake in an evening filled with cuisine, fireworks, classical Thai dancing, music, and puppet shows performed by the award-winning Joe Louis Theatre. Guests will also have the opportunity to make and float their own krathongs on Chao Phraya River. When: November 17 Where: The Peninsula Bangkok (333 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan, Bangkok) How much: THB 5,990 net per person at The Peninsula Lawn and River Cafe & Terrace; free for children under 6 years old, and 50 percent off for children 6 to 12 years old; THB 5,990 net per person at Thiptara; THB 7,990 net per person for food only, and THB 11,990 net per person with unlimited soft drinks and house wine, at The Lobby Terrace; THB 12,550++ for the Loy Krathong package (if booked before November 15), including one night’s stay in a Balcony Room, dinner buffet, international breakfast buffet, and vouchers for The Spa. More info: 02 626 1841, 02 861 2388, diningpbk@peninsula.com, reservationpbk@peninsula.com

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

Celebrate Loy Krathong at The Siam

What: Celebrate Loy Krathong along the River of Kings in Bangkok’s Historic Old Town. Float your wishes for the future on your own personal handmade krathong from The Siam’s private pier while enjoying a northern-style market festival with live music and food. The Siam’s award-winning Chon Thai restaurant will then serve a traditional shared table four-course dinner of nine dishes. When: November 17 Where: The Siam Hotel (3/2 Thanon Khao, Vachirapayabal, Dusit, Bangkok) How much: THB 6,500++ per person for the Siam Loy Krathong dinner (includes market festival with aperitif, four-course dinner featuring nine dishes, a bottle of house wine, Krathong making workshop); THB 11,500++ per person for the Romance Loy Krathong dinner (includes the same, plus a secluded, romantic table on the Chon Lawn next to the river and a bottle of champagne) More info: 02 206 6999, info@thesiamhotel.com

Pattaya International Fireworks Festival 2013 by Dazzling View

What: Pattaya International Fireworks Festival 2013 will be celebrated at Holiday Inn Pattaya, with a view from the infinity pool (Splash), a BBQ seafood buffet, and unlimited soft drinks, beer, wine, sparkling wine, and a welcome drink. When: November 29-30 Where: Holiday Inn Pattaya (463/68 Pattaya Sai 1Rd. Nongprue, Banglamung, Chonburi) How much: Adults THB 2,290 net per person; children 7-12 years old THB 690 net per person; extensive BBQ at Café G’s terrace for THB 1,890 net per person More info: 038 725 555, info@holidayinn-pattaya.com

WHAT'S ON NOVEMBER

Children and Charities The Solange Paz Mendoza Foundation's Charity Event

What: The Solange Paz Mendoza Foundation is holding a charity event to raise money for the Queen Sirikit National Institute of Child Health for the Sight4Life project, focusing on children’s vision. There will be a live band, food, drinks, a raffle, and a silent auction. When: November 21 at 6:30 p.m. Where: Above Eleven (33rd Floor, Fraser Suite, Sukhumvit Road, Soi 11 Bangkok) How much: THB 2,500 More info: salonijwongse@yahoo.com.au

Don't Eat Sharks, Play With Them!

What: Swissôtel Le Concorde Bangkok is taking steps to help create awareness on the ban of shark fins, and the hotel is inviting everyone to be a part of this great cause by purchasing a shark doll for Christmas. All the proceeds of sales from the shark dolls will be used to support a Fin Free Thailand, a nonprofit organization, and also donated to children in need. When: Until December 25 Where: Swissôtel Le Concorde (204 Ratchadapisek Road, Huay Kwang, Bangkok) How much: Small for THB 199, large for THB 399 More info: 02 694 2222

DIY Gingerbread House for a Fun Family Christmas

What: The culinary team at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit has created a special do it yourself (DIY) gingerbread house, which includes all the ingredients and pre-baked pieces to easily assemble them. When: Order your gingerbread house before November 30 and get 15 percent off; also, on Sunday, December 1, 8, 15, and 22, children will be able to enjoy the hotel’s renowned Sunday Jazzy Brunch, and make a gingerbread house at basil restaurant. Where: Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (250 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok) How much: THB 1,500 for the DIY gingerbread house; Sunday Jazzy Brunch THB 999++, plus THB 1,000 for a DIY gingerbread house More info: 02 649 8368, dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com, www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com/en/store

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

REEL LIFE NOVEMBER

"Don Jon" Jon Martello is a handsome guy called Don Jon by his friends for his ability in flirting with girls, but he has a secret: a dependence on pornography. He will meet Barbara, a beautiful and oldfashioned girl. The two of them will struggle against their expectations and the mass media culture to find true intimacy. Director: Joseph Gordon-Levitt Cast: Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Scarlett Johansson, Julianne Moore, Tony Danza

Cinemas in Bangkok Paragon Imax Theatre 5th and 6th Floor Siam Paragon (Siam BTS), Tel: 02 515 5555 SF World Cinema 7th Floor Central World Plaza (Chit Lom BTS), Tel: 02 268 8888 SFX Cinema Emporium 6th Floor, Emporium (Phrom Phong BTS), Tel: 02 268 8888 Major Sukhumvit 1221/39 Sukhumvit 63 (Ekkamai BTS), Tel: 02 381 4855

Lookeast | REEL LIFE

"The Hunger Games: Catching Fire" Katniss returned home after that her win the 74th Annual Hunger Games sparks a rebellion in Panem. She and Peeta will become a target of the Capitol and a danger for the status quo. Director: Francis Lawrence Cast: Jennifer Lawrence, Josh Hutcherson, Liam Hemsworth, Woody Harrelson, Elizabeth Banks, Lenny Kravitz, Phillip Seymour Hoffman, Jeffrey Wright, Stanley Tucci, Donald Sutherland

"The Counselor" A greedy lawyer finds himself involved in drug trafficking and has to face a world he didn't know before. A collaboration between Ridley Scott and Cormac McCarthy, the result of which is a deep and dark thriller. Director: Martin Scorsese Cast: Michael Fassbender, PenĂŠlope Cruz, Cameron Diaz, Javier Bardem, Brad Pitt

"Thor: The Dark World" Thor, the Mighty Avenger, has to fight a shadowy enemy to save Earth and all the Nine Realms. Faced with an enemy that even his father Odin and Asgard cannot withstand, Thor must embark on a perilous journey; yet, it is a journey that will reunite him with Jane Foster and force him to sacrifice everything to save us all. Director: Alan Taylor Cast: Ray Stevenson, Chris Hemsworth, Tom Hiddleston, Natalie Portman, Anthony Hopkins, Tadanobu Asano, Idris Elba, Kat Dennings, Rene Russo, Jaimie Alexander, Stellan SkarsgĂĽrd, Christopher Eccleston.

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TRAVEL PACK & BRING

Beach reads

Travel gear Guess and Just Cavalli phone covers

Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation

Bunker Hill: A City, a Siege, a Revolution

In a culture of celebrity chefs and food reality shows, in countries that are crammed with fresh ingredients flown in from every corner of the globe, people nonetheless wade deeper and deeper into processed food. In a series of encounters with chefs from around the world, Michael Pollan takes readers on a journey through the fundamentals of cooking while uncovering many of its inner mysteries, from tiny specks of yeast to a whole hog roast. The result is a funny and surprising book that encourages us to revel in the magical activity of cooking.

Lost in the story of America’s path to independence is the tumultuous nature of that nation’s origin: the interplay of ideologies and personalities that provoked a group of merchants, farmers, artisans, and sailors to take up arms in pursuit of liberty. Through stories of patriotism, violence, and courage, and written with passion, insight, even-handedness, and eloquence, Nathaniel Philbrick’s book brings to life in Bunker Hill the robust, chaotic, and blisteringly real origins of America.

Author: Michael Pollan

Author: Nathaniel Philbrick

Covers for smartphones and tablets have become fashion accessories. Guess and Just Cavalli designed two collections of covers for these devices to help owners match their high-tech accessories with their outfits and to protect them from falls or from being scratched by other objects in one’s purse. While Guess chose a simpler design that showcases pattern and color, Just Cavalli opted for animal prints, using modern materials and bright tones.

MIO Alpha When traveling, there is often not enough time to stick to a training regimen, and MIO Alpha can be helpful for travelers who want a short but efficient workout. This is the first and only sports watch designed to provide continuous and accurate heart rate monitoring—at performance levels—without a chest strap. Because it can connect via Bluetooth Smart to apps and other devices, it can be a great companion for sporty and dynamic people who want to stay fit during lazy holidays or hectic business trips.

Lookeast | Travel

Dave Stamboulis

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TRAVEL CULTURE

Elephants help to reenact a historic battle

CHANGLAND: THE SURIN ELEPHANT ROUNDUP

he northeastern Isaan town of Surin is a sleepy provincial capital of some 40,000 people, with one main street and a decent night market. Other than being famed for its local silk production and nearby Khmer temples of Ta Muean, the town is not a major tourist destination. However, on the third weekend of each November, the city roars to life and greets thousands of visitors with the arrival of the annual Elephant Roundup. The Asian elephant is highly revered in Thai culture, both as a working asset and as an international symbol of the kingdom. It has been depicted in art, architecture, and literature, and shown as an auspicious symbol of the king. During the rule of King Rama II, even the national flag had an image of the elephant emblazoned on it.

Lookeast | Travel

By Dave Stamboulis In Ban Tha Klang, a small village some 60 kilometers from Surin, elephants have been raised and trained for ages by their mahouts (trainers), members of the Kui tribe, originally from Cambodia. Famed for capturing, domesticating, and training wild elephants, the Kui have taught the animals to become providers, work companions, and lifelong friends. In Kui families, it is normal for elephant training skills to be passed from father to son, and the boys often grow up with baby elephants that are the offspring of animals that have been in family through generations. There is thus a very deep bond between the men and the elephants. It is from Ban Tha Klang that the majority of the hundreds of elephants that grace Surin’s roundup come.

On arrival at Surin’s train station during the festival, one can opt for an elephant ride rather than a taxi to get to one’s hotel, as the elephants get free rein and run of the town and its streets for several days! Prior to the main event, the city even hosts the world’s largest elephant buffet, where the animals are gathered next to the railway station for a banquet in their honor, and for providing Surin with its golden cash cow (er … elephant)! Once the roundup gets going, the elephants engage in football and polo competitions. Despite their girth, they are actually quite agile, and the football match usually proves to be highly competitive and entertaining. Lighter antics include clown performances, comic relief, and stunts like an “us versus elephant” tug of war, in which thirty or forty of Surin’s strongest young men

known for its excellent gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tam (papaya salad). In addition, beer gardens are set up all over the city, and the weather in Surin in November is cool and refreshing: perfect for sitting outside and telling stories of the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s events over bottles of the appropriately named sponsor of the whole event, Chang, your one and only elephant beer!

ancient warfare, the grand finale of the festival involves elaborately crafted mock battles fought in full traditional costume, with elephants leading the respective armies into their forays. This period piece is beautifully choreographed, as it features the elephants in battle costume, along with several thousand participants dressed as warriors. They engage in everything from horse jousting to firing cannonsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the proceedings feel extremely authentic. In addition to these activities, there is also a local beauty pageant, colorful parades, and rides available on the backs of the mighty beasts, not to mention photo sessions with the babies. Needless to say, there are plenty of food vendors and stalls to be found during the festival, and Surin is well

It's bath time!

Dave Stamboulis

A smiling mahout aboard his elephant

Dave Stamboulis

take on a single elephant in a massive rope pulling match. Needless to say, the elephant always wins! The roundup also offers a chance to see mahouts tending their charges, washing them down, displaying how the elephants are captured and tamed, and performing traditional ceremonies like phi pakarn, a ritual done to fend off danger during roundups of wild elephants. Some object to the rather circus-like atmosphere that seems to surround the elephants during the stunts and games, but a visit to the area behind the stadium where the mahouts wash, groom, and feed themselves reveals a more personal and tender side to the relationship between animal and trainer. As elephants were a vital part of

phant Roundup Travel Tips: The Ele weekend of happens the third place this year on November, taking e main events Th November 16â&#x20AC;&#x201C;17. ng Stadium, from happen at Si Naro e til 11:00 a.m. Ther about 8:30 a.m un r he ot d an , es rid , are also roundups e afternoons. performances in th

Elephant football match

Dave Stamboulis

: Often booked Accommodation e festival is a th far in advance, both Thais and g on am huge draw ices tend to foreigners. Hotel pr e bookings are nc double, and adva g Tarin Hotel (Tel: essential. The Thon thongtarinhotel. 044 514 281, www. m THB 2,300 com) has rooms fro and dinner. st kfa including brea : More information of Thailand, Tourism Authority Surin Office 044 518 529 Tel: 044 514 447-8,

november 2013 | 19

TRAVEL FEATURE

HOLIDAYS IN VIPASSANA Exploring Buddhist meditation in the monasteries of Myanmar By J. McGee

Monks at sunset, Mandalay

Lookeast | TRAVEL

a strange feeling that something was happening beyond this framework of the body but, as went my meditation training, I kept my eyes steadfastly closed. In time, however, the energy seemed to reach a kind of crescendo and I couldn’t resist finally taking a peek. To my amazement, I found myself sitting in a sea of people, more than I’d ever seen at the pagoda before. I stood and began to walk around, and I found hundreds of families lighting thousands of candles that made the golden glow of the temple shine even more brightly. As I was to find out some time later, I had just happened to wander there on the fall night of Thadingyut, a holiday marked by placing candles in monasteries and pagodas across Myanmar. This was going to be one of many learning experiences ahead of me during my time there.

Det-anan + Shutterstock

t had been another full day at work and, I felt that instead of going home, an evening visit to the sacred and age-old Shwedagon Pagoda seemed in order. I’d now been living in Yangon long enough that I knew how to avoid the noisy thoroughfares. I could walk the entire way on small backstreets that skirted through local neighborhoods, parks, and monastery grounds, allowing me to slip out of work mode and prepare for the greater work of the mind ahead. It was still afternoon when I reached the pagoda and, with few pilgrims yet arrived, a sense of spaciousness pervaded the environment. I sat down at my usual spot and started the purification work of ānāpāna and vipassanā, my mind now focused on an inner awareness of breath and body sensations. As the hours passed, I had

november 2013 | 21

Temples in Bagan

Szefei + Shutterstock

Novices at Shwe Yan Phe monastery

Woman praying with incense sticks inside a temple

The practice of dhamma For nearly 200 years, interest in Buddhism and meditation has grown steadily in the West, even if accurate understanding has often lagged behind. From the early Orientalists in the 19th century to the 1950s Beat poets and alternative spiritual traditions in modern times, for many, Buddhist meditation was most attractive for its perceived exoticism. John Coleman, a former CIA agent who became one of the earliest appointed Western vipassanā teachers, notes that this was a driving force even in his own search. In “The Quiet Mind,” he writes, “In the West there had always been a feeling that the East was in closer contact with unspecified mysteries than ourselves.” Those Westerners like Coleman who went beyond the sound bites and devoted themselves to learning

Lookeast | TRAVEL

meditation found a scientific and resultsoriented practice that granted real personal clarity and inner calm. And as a young generation that was increasingly mistrustful of all authority and skeptical of all past traditions came of age in the West, vipassanā offered the opportunity to directly experience these truths inside. Meditation is an incredible activity, utterly unimaginable and virtually unexplainable to one who has never attempted it. It is like describing the ocean to someone living in a landlocked region or the color green to someone who is blind. Buddhist meditation holds the promise of full liberation and freedom. However, the implications of these profound words will not resonate properly until one has begun to understand the extent to one’s own

Gnomeandi + Shutterstock

TRAVEL FEATURE

Bule Sky Studio + Shutterstock

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conditioning, blind habit patterns, and mental stresses. For a Western dhamma student, the joy that a visit to Myanmar affords is the experience of a country where many Buddhist values are integrated across society. This is in sharp contrast to other countries in which meditation centers can feel like sacred grounds far removed from communities. For many of us Western meditators, it can also be an unexpected challenge to negotiate unexamined expectations arising from our own nascent practice with one that is many centuries older. In my own experience, as I began to stay longer during each visit to Myanmar, my understanding of the very nature of Buddhist practice began to change. This happened as I gradually came to appreciate how my Burmese friends showed their devotion and integrated Buddha’s teachings into their own lives. As valuable as I continue to see the formal practice to be, I saw how even the smallest, most mundane aspects encountered in the course of a day could provide an opportunity for contemplation and application. Mindfulness, generosity, compassion, humility, and awareness could manifest naturally, as I often saw through the interaction with monasteries and the

Beginning a Buddhist practice community. And in Myanmar, where simplicity is still widely acknowledged as one of the greatest virtues one can cultivate, the “good life” is understood by many as following Buddha’s words to the best of one’s ability. As one monk once told me, with every other life endeavor there is no end—it just keeps getting increasingly complicated and advanced, and there is no rest. In dhamma practice, however, as one progresses the mind gets unburdened and simplicity follows. For those from a Western society that has been getting increasingly complicated, overwhelming, and generally “full” at exponential rates, notions of basic contentment can feel farther away than ever. This sentiment was never expressed better than when comedian and actor Louis C.K. said in 2008 that with the constant rise of ever-new technological gadgets, “Everything is amazing and nobody is happy.” Indeed, the idea that “more” and “more advanced” will not ultimately lead to any lasting contentment is a very hard life lesson that continues to elude many of us. Unfortunately, it is also an attitude that many carry over to their spiritual practices: by trying to “get away from it all” one ends up simply carrying the burden to their next destination or activity, hoping that the next “new” thing will be the one that will finally bring fulfillment.

For those interested in learning formal meditation, several monasteries and meditation centers in Myanmar are especially welcoming to foreigners, and no prior experience is required:

There are many ways in which one can engage in Burmese Buddhist meditation, from requesting permission to stay at a village monastery to studying the scriptures, and from ordaining temporarily to undertaking formal meditation instruction. While all will illuminate a part of Buddha’s teachings, it is important that one approaches any of these activities with an inner volition of renunciation and commitment. Even if one has only a week to spend, this is one full week where one can try to follow the practice of “letting go” within the heart, to a greater extent than it is possible in daily life. While visits to spas and healers promising that “more is better” may not insist in a customer giving up his or her own perspectives and steadfast beliefs, Buddhist practice emphasizes that real insight and clarity can only arise once this release is made, for it is only then that one becomes open to real learning. It is for this reason that Myanmar may not be the ideal destination for those still searching for the next big thing, but it is certainly the right one for those curious about the many small things that can only be understood when greater mindfulness and attention are applied. Check the side box for more information about meditation centers in Myanmar in case you are considering to spending your next holidays in vipassanā.

• S.N. Goenka: These centers offer 10-day courses year-round throughout the world, for which one must pre-register. The courses follow a rigorous schedule of formal sitting and strict silence. (www.dhamma.org) In the two following centers, permission must be requested directly from the head abbot for one’s intended dates of stay: • Shwe Oo Min Monastery: It teaches how to observe the mind and its contents, and students are encouraged to practice mindfulness and to watch the “knowing mind” during all activities of the day. (www.sayadawutejaniya.org) • Chan Myay Myaing Monastery: It teaches vipassanā meditation according to the Mahasi method of observing the rise and fall of the abdomen, and slowing down one’s movements to better note them. It also offers comprehensive teachings in the practice of mettā, or lovingkindness. (www.meditation-inburma.com/en)

View of the Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangoon, at dawn

Isarescheewin + Shutterstock

More information: • Burma Dhamma: This is a blog about Burmese Buddhism, and it features excerpts from the upcoming book about meditation in Myanmar, “Shwe Lan Ga Lay.” (www. burmadhamma.blogspot.com) • Compassionate Travel Myanmar: Burmese travel agency specializing in Buddhistthemed travel (tours, pilgrimages, etc.) to Myanmar. (www. compassionatetravelmyanmar. com) november 2013 | 23

TRAVEL FEATURE

SHOPPING IN CHIANG MAI'S NIGHT MARKETS The streets of Chiang Mai come alive at night with the sounds and colors of these local markets

Custom-made t-shirts at the Sunday Market

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Henry Wu

by Henry Wu

TRAVEL FEATURE

Sunday Walking Street Market

The most popular and crowded night market in Chiang Mai, the sprawling Sunday Night Market, runs along the length of Rachadamnoen and Intrawarorot roads plus some side streets in between. To find the entrance, start at either Thapae Gate on the eastern end of the moat, or at Wat Phra Singh on its western side At the Sunday Night Market you’ll find more handcrafted, locally sourced products for sale than in any other night market in Chiang Mai. In fact, many Chiang Mai University (CMU) art students and graduates use this market to display their talents, which spill over into the designs and creativity shown at the many booths. On a recent outing to the market, I discovered one of those students selling handmade t-shirts with his own custom typography. At another booth, another CMU graduate specializing in clay molding attracted a crowd with simple but melodic tunes from coming his handcrafted ocarinas.

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Local artists and customers at the Sunday Night Market

In addition, you’ll discover a wide array of items on sale, including artsy t-shirts, edgy and modern paintings, recycled art, and hill tribe woven products. If you get tired of so much shopping, you can always sit and watch the seemingly unending crowd of people surge by, while street performers sing and dance. There are even Chiang Mai policemen singing karaoke all night at one corner of the market. After shopping, bargaining, and dodging all the crowds, you’re bound to get hungry. Luckily, shopping and eating go hand in hand in Thailand. Scattered along the market are numerous food stalls to quench your thirst and satisfy any palate. For those in need of a full meal, head over to Phan Ohn Temple, located at the intersection of Rachadamnoen and Ratpakinai roads. You’ll be met with a huge courtyard filled with vendors serving a variety of food, such as vegetarian Indian food, Japanese sushi, Singaporean chicken rice, and a wide selection of Thai street fare. Prices start as low as THB 20 and average about THB 50 for a meal.

After having your fill of street food, pamper your sore feet with a street side Thai massage. You can choose from among the many makeshift massage shops and get back in shape for about THB 150 for 120 minutes. Tips The market tends to become more and more crowded as the night runs on, so it’s better to arrive early (5 p.m.) If you’re the first customer of the night, there’s also a good chance of getting a bigger discount, as the vendors believe the first sale brings them good luck! At 6 p.m., when the national anthem is played over the loudspeakers, everyone freezes in place like a giant flash mob. It’s worth coming to see that, as all activity stops for a minute or so. Because prices are very reasonable, expect to get only about 10 to 15 percent off when bargaining. Address: Full length of Rachadamnoen Road, starting at Tha Phae Gate to Wat Phra Singh, along with some intersecting roads. Hours: 4:30 p.m. to midnight

Henry Wu

n the Old City, the day belongs to temples, cooking classes, and spa adventures. At night, however, Chiang Mai’s Old City awakens from its peaceful slumber to host its teeming night markets. Of all the markets, the Sunday Night Market, the Saturday Night Market, and the Night Bazaar offer the best variety of shopping and convenience. Whether you’re looking for t-shirts, Thai silk scarves, trendy clothing, or handmade hill tribe products, they can be found at all three. Just be careful not to go overboard, or you might find yourself with an extra bag to check in at the airport!

TRAVEL FEATURE

If you can’t make it to the Sunday or Saturday night markets, the Night Bazaar, which runs every night, is a perfectly good option as well. To get there, head east on Loi Kroh Road from Thaepae Gate until you hit Chang Klan Road. The origins of the night bazaar lie in the old Yunnanese trading caravans stopping near the Ping River while en route between China and Myanmar. Nowadays, its a popular, brimming tourist hotspot where visitors from all over the world come to find great deals on anything from Thai silk, hand woven fabrics, licensed and pirated DVDs, hand paintings, and hill tribe jewelry. A bonus of this market is that most of it is covered in some way, so it’s possible to shop here if it’s raining. For a real treat, find the underground shops across from Kalare Center, where you’ll see local artists

painting and drawing on site. Custom pieces of art range from THB 500 to THB 10,000. When you’re done shopping, cap off the night at the Kalare Food Court with its vast array of food ranging from khao soi to basil pork rice, accompanied by live music played enthusiastically by a local Thai singer–songwriter. Tips Prices here are higher than in the other markets, so remember to bargain down and be prepared to walk away if necessary—you’ll be surprised how much the vendors will come down when you do. You should be able to bargain down prices about 20 to 40 percent depending on the vendor. Rjurate + Shutterstock

Night Bazaar

Address: All along Chang Klan Road between Tha Phae and Sridonchai roads Hours: 7 p.m. to midnight

This is the Sunday Walking Street Market’s little brother—many of the vendors come to both markets, but the Saturday market is smaller and less popular. Even so, you can still find many of the same items from the Sunday Night Market, such as t-shirts, farmer pants, Thai silk, and art pieces. In addition, since this market was built up around the old silversmiths’ district of Chiang Mai, you’ll see some traditional silver shops along the market. Prices tend to be a bit more reasonable compared to the Sunday Night Market and the Night Bazaar owing to the smaller crowds, so there’s definitely a higher chance of getting a good deal here! Also, there tend to be fewer food options than at the Sunday market, but you’ll find a nice food courtyard about halfway down the street. Overall, if you want a low-key street shopping experience, the Saturday Night Market is definitely worth checking out. Tips Similar to the Sunday Market, it’s smart to arrive there early (5 p.m.) as crowds tend to hit their peak later on in the evening. To get to the market, go to the southern end of the moat and then head for Wualai Road. Because the market begins on Wualai Road, it is also known as Wualai Market to locals. Address: Wualai Road at the Southern Moat Hours: 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.

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Close-up of soap carvings

Angelo Giampiccolo + Shutterstock

Saturday Night Market

travel

TRAVEL MINI GUIDE

SUKHOTHAI MINI GUIDE A mini guide to Thailand’s first capital and current UNESCO World Heritage Site

Dave Stamboulis

By Dave Stamboulis

Wat Mahathat, the central ruin at Sukhothai Historical Park

ukhothai, which means “the dawn of happiness,” was Thailand’s first capital, founded in the late 13th century by King Ramkamhaeng. While it lost its capital stardom to Ayutthaya less than 100 years after, it remains immortalized after being awarded its Muang Kao “Old City” UNESCO World Heritage status, thus making Sukhothai one of Thailand’s premiere tourist attractions today. The old ruins are a bit far from Bangkok to do justice to in one day, but Sukhothai does have attractions that make it worth the overnight trip: comfortable inexpensive lodging for well under THB 1,000, good local noodles and even some Italian food, a very laidback vibe, and easy access by train or

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bus. The city and ruins make for a great blend of historical outdoor museum and present-day small town life, and it is a must-see on any visitor’s itinerary in Thailand.

the ruins. The Sukhothai celebration features muay thai demonstrations, traditional dances and music, parades, and a massive fireworks display over the Historical Park.

Why go

What to see

Visit Sukhothai to get an understanding of Thai history, and to see atmospheric and well-preserved ancient ruins. The historical park is spread out and can provide hours of fascinating exploration by bicycle or tram. Sukhothai is also one of the best spots in the country to take in Loy Krathong, the full moon lights celebration which takes place at the end of the rainy season (in November each year), when Thais throw “krathong” (floating offerings) in rivers, lakes, and ponds beneath

The World Heritage Sukhothai Historical Park is the big draw here, and one should plan on spending at least half a day in it. The central zone of the park (each zone requires separate admission of approximately THB 100 each) is the most visited one, and it’s considered the most impressive section. This is largely because of the towering Wat Mahathat, which used to be the center of the ancient kingdom and is still preserved in phenomenal condition despite of its age. Other highlights of this part include

the Khmer Wat Si Sawai and Wat Phra Phai Luang, and the Sri Lankan chedi styled Wat Sa Si, which sits on an island surrounded by a reservoir. The nearby Northern Zone is also a must see and contains the often photographed Wat Si Chum, home to a massive giant Buddha image that peeks out from between two walls. The West Zone is less impressive as it doesn’t have as many towering temple ruins, but at the same time it’s less visited and a peaceful escape, as it sits on a hillside and has a standing Buddha image overlooking the plains below. It is also well worth calling in at the Ramkamhaeng National Museum to take a look at its preserved carvings and inscriptions, and to learn a bit more about the history of the old city.

What to do

Sukhothai was made for bicycling, and it is the perfect way to get around the spread out ruins and to go farther afield. Most guesthouses rent out bicycles for THB 50 a day or less, as do many shops in the old and new towns. For something a bit more comprehensive, Cycling Sukhothai does countryside and sunset tours in addition to trips around the historical park. (www.cyclingsukhothai.com) The ruins at Si Satchanalai are also worth a detour, located some 60 kilometers from Sukhothai. The temple ruins here have also received UNESCO status, they are far quieter than those of the Old City. They have the added bonus of being located in a lovely forested

setting on the Yom River. There might not be too much to look at New Sukhothai, but its bustling fresh market is worth a stopover. It’s at its apex early in the morning, when one can find specialties like spicy pork wrapped in banana leaves alongside mountains of colorful fresh fruit and produce that vendors hawk until they are gone.

Eating and drinking

Sukhothai may be the countryside, but it has plenty of delectable eating spots. The local claim to fame is kuay tiaow Sukhothai (Sukhothai noodles), which combine roast chicken, fatty pork shoulder, peanuts, string beans, and rice noodles in a sweet and sour lime sauce, and are sold on virtually every street corner in town. • Kru Eew (203/25 Vichien Chamnong Road), in the new town, is a good spot to try kuay tiaow Sukhothai. • For something a bit fancier, the Dream Café (86/1 Singhawat Rd, tel: 055 612 801) serves up excellent Thai fare in an atmospheric old Thai house full of antiques and cute knickknacks. • If you’re in need of a farang fix, Felice (39 Vichien Chamnong Rd, tel: 089 960 9660) does praiseworthy fettuccine and plenty of other Italian standouts. • For drinking, most visitors head for the Chopper Bar (Prawet Nakhon Road), a Wild West saloon-type spot with bull skulls on the wall. Thai food is also available here, along with mixed cocktails and your standard Thai beers.

Buddha peering out at Wat Si Chum

e how to get ther

Dave Stamboulis

The main Wat Mahathat complex reflected in a pond

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Sleeping

Sukhothai offers great value for money when it comes to resting one’s head. • The Lotus Village (www.lotusvillage.com, tel: 055 621 484) is the nicest spot in town, offering artistic boutique accommodation in cozy teak bungalows surrounded by lotus and fish ponds, with an in-house spa, too. • The Orchid Hibiscus (www. orchidhibiscus-guesthouse.com, tel: 055 633 284) is an intimate resort with a swimming pool, landscaped tropical gardens, hammocks, and private Jacuzzis, and it is located less than a kilometer from the Historical Park. november 2013 | 31

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

Bangkok

What: Enjoy a 2-night stay at rates starting from THB 11,044++ depending on the category of room and the season. Choose from any of the room types. Along with the accommodation come daily set breakfast for 2 people, a complimentary half-day city tour, complimentary 2-hour spa treatments for 2 people, and complimentary a high tea set for two. When: Available from now until December 31, 2013 Where: Sawasdee, Wattana, and Eugenia Suites (267, Soi Sukhumvit 31, North Klongtan, Wattana, Bangkok 10110) More info: 02 259 9011, enquiry@theeugenia.com, www.theeugenia.com/offers.html

Northgate Ratchayothin

The Eugenia Hotel & Spa: Exclusive Package with Room, Spa, and High Tea

Northgate Ratchayothin: Stay 2 Weekend Nights & Save 20 percent What: Stay Friday to Sunday night, with 20 percent off their best available rate when booking a Studio room for 2 nights or more at THB 1,760 net for two people. The rate is inclusive of in-room Wi-Fi throughout the stay. When: Available from now until December 31, 2013 Where: 248 Ratchadapisek Road, Ladyao, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900 More info: 02 939 7949, reservation@northgatebangkok.com, www.northgatebangkok.com

GLOW Pratunam: Stay 3 Nights and Save 20 percent

GLOW Pratunam

The Eugenia Hotel & Spa

What: Book a Deluxe room for 3 nights or more and receive 20 percent off the website rate. Rooms start from THB 2,400 net per night, including free Wi-Fi. This promotion is also valid for Deluxe Corner room and GLOW Suite bookings. When: Available from now until December 31, 2013 Where: 919 Petchburi Road, Kwang Thanon Phayathai, Rajdhevi, Bangkok 10400 (Rajdhewi BTS; Phayathai MRT) More info: 02 257 3999, rsvn.pratunam@glowbyzinc.com, www.glowbyzinc.com/pratunam

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Hua Chang Heritage Hotel: Family Getaway Package

The Peninsula Bangkok

Hua Chang Heritage Hotel

What: For THB 12,500 net get: 3 night accommodation in suite adjoining Premier Deluxe room for two adults and three children (under 12 years old); complimentary daily international and traditional Thai buffet breakfast at Miss Siam restaurant; complimentary inroom minibar (excluding alcohol) and daily local newspaper; complimentary welcome drinks and tropical fruits; and complimentary unlimited in-room Wi-Fi access. When: Available from now until December 31, 2013 Where: 400 Phayathai Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 More info: 66 2217 0777, reservations@huachanghotel.com, www.huachangheritagehotel.com

The Peninsula Bangkok: Celebrating 15 Years by Giving Away 15 Nights of Luxury

What: Now celebrating its 15th anniversary, the hotel is rewarding customers with the chance to win a grand prize of 15-night complimentary stay in one of The Peninsulaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s luxurious rooms. Local residents living in Thailand (Thai and expatriate) who dine at any of the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurants or go to enjoy a Peninsula Spa treatment will receive a ticket with their bill and will enter the draw. When: Available from now until December 15, 2013. The prize is valid for use anytime throughout 2014, subject to confirmation. Where: 333 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan, Bangkok 10600 More info: 02 861 2888, prpbk@peninsula.com

november 2013 | 33

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

Regional GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai, Phang Nga: Advance Purchase Promotion

What: Book 14 days in advance and save 15 percent. Rates start from THB 4,165 net per night for a Superior villa, including breakfast for 2 people. Receive a 20 percent discount when booking 30 days in advance. Rates start from THB 3,920 net per night for a Superior villa. The advance purchase promotion is also valid for Deluxe villas and Beach Front Pool villas. When: Available from now until December 31, 2013 Where: 99 Moo 3, Prunai Koh Yao Yai, Phang Nga 83000 More info: 087 808 3838, rsvn.kohyaoyai@glowbyzinc.com

Asian Mandarin Oriental, Manila: A Suite Stay Weekend Package

Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi

GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai

What: Priced at PHP 6,500 net per night for single or double occupancy in a Junior suite, a Suite Stay weekend package includes international buffet breakfast at Paseo Uno, a PHP 1,000 spa or dining credit (per room per night), a welcome bottle of wine, MOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature pralines, and guaranteed late checkout at 4 p.m. When: Valid on weekends (Fridayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sunday) until December 31, 2013, subject to availability Where: Makati Avenue, Makati City 1226, Metro Manila, Philippines More info: +63 2 750 8888, momnl-reservations@mohg.com, www.mandarinoriental.com/ manila

What: Book a Pool Court room 14 days in advance and receive a 15 percent discount. Rates start from THB 6,800 net per night inclusive of breakfast for two people and inroom minibar with nonalcoholic drinks. Or receive a 10 percent discount when booking 7 days in advance, starting at THB 7,200 net per night. Pool villas and Two Bedroom villas are also available. When: Available from now until December 31, 2013 Where: 165/3 Moo 3 Paknampran Pranburi, Prachuap Khirikhan 77220 More info: 032 630 771, rsvn@villamarocresort.com, www.villamarocresort.com

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Mandarin Oriental

Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi: Advance Purchase Promotion

British Airways

TRAVEL NEWS

Rosewood Bangkok

British Airways Announces New Flight Times and Arrival Terminal Upgrade for Bangkok–London Route

Rosewood Bangkok Scheduled for 2017 Opening

Rosewood Hotels & Resorts has been appointed by hospitality investment company RENDE to manage the ultra-luxury Rosewood Bangkok, scheduled to open in 2017. This latest signing marks Rosewood’s ninth management agreement to be announced globally, and the fourth this year in Asia Pacific. Rosewood Bangkok will be located on prime real estate within Bangkok’s central business district, adjacent to the Ploenchit Skytrain station, to which it will be directly linked. The 146-room, 33-story property will have two restaurants and bars, a spa, a swimming pool, a fitness center, and meeting facilities. Guestrooms will include 64 square meter Pool Sky villas that feature large terraces and private plunge pools.

Thai travelers flying British Airways to the United Kingdom will soon experience a more convenient arrival at London’s Heathrow Airport. From October 27, 2013, the airline’s flights from Bangkok to London arrive at Heathrow’s newest terminal, Terminal 5 (T5). Previously, British Airways flights landed at Heathrow Terminal 3. As T5 is the world hub of British Airways, passengers are now also able to catch connecting flights to UK travel spots, and many other European and U.S. East Coast destinations, from a single terminal. The service is being operated by a Boeing 777 aircraft in three class configurations with Club World, World Traveller Plus, and World Traveller.

november 2013 | 35

OnAir Provides Full Inflight Connectivity on Associated Air Center B747-800i VVIP Completion Program

OnAir will provide the fully certified complete range of its inflight connectivity products on Associated Air Center’s (AAC) Boeing B747-800i VVIP completion program, for an undisclosed customer. This marks the first time Boeing’s flagship aircraft type has been equipped with OnAir’s GSM and Wi-Fi connectivity. The OnAir solution, comprising both Internet OnAir and Mobile OnAir, will be installed by Associated Air Center. The owner and the plane’s passengers and crew, will have access to the full range of connectivity options, including email, calls, text messages, and the Internet. As a result, passengers will be able to use their own personal electronic devices in exactly the same way as they do on the ground.

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Etihad Airways, the national airline of the United Arab Emirates, has expanded its codeshare agreement with Korean Air, South Korea’s largest airline, to include six new destinations. In the second phase of cooperation, Etihad Airways will place its EY code on Korean Air services from Seoul Incheon to Honolulu, Vancouver and Hong Kong. Korean Air will place its KE code on Etihad Airways’ flights from Abu Dhabi to Johannesburg, Muscat and, subject to government approval, Khartoum. The new arrangements augment the airlines’ existing codeshare services between Abu Dhabi and Seoul Incheon.

Gulf Air

OnAir

Etihad Airways and Korean Air Expand Codeshare Agreement

Korean Air

TRAVEL NEWS

Gulf Air Launches Special Fares to Popular Holiday Destinations for Its Passengers from Bangkok

Gulf Air, the national carrier of the Kingdom of Bahrain, has launched a special promotion in time for passengers who are traveling during the winter holidays from Bangkok to popular destinations across the airline’s network in the Middle East, North Africa and Europe. Promotional fares on Economy class start from THB 18,950 to the Middle East and THB 24,600 to Europe. Falcon Gold class special fares start from THB 46,600 to the Middle East and THB 82,000 to Europe. Destinations included in the promotion are London, Paris, Frankfurt, Dammam, Riyadh, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Amman, Cairo, and Khartoum. Tickets can be purchased through travel agencies and are available for travel until December 31, 2013.

AUTHENTIC THAI STYLE RESORTS IN PHUKET, THAILAND NEWLY RENOVATED LUXURY ROOMS IN SPACIOUS EXOTIC GARDENS BOOK NOW: 30% DISCOUNT PROMO CODE: LKEAST WWW.THAVORNPALMBEACH.COM WWW.THAVORNBEACHVILLAGE.COM 311 PATAK ROAD, KARON BEACH, AMPHUR MUANG, PHUKET, THAILAND 83100 TEL : +66(0)76 396090–3 EMAIL : INFO@THAVORNGROUP.COM WEBSITE : WWW.THAVORNGROUP.COM

TRAVEL BUSINESS INSIGHTS

FINANCIAL SUPPORT "CARROT" FOR MICE ORGANIZERS TO HOLD FUTURES EVENT IN THAILAND

rganizers of global meetings, incentives, conferences, and exhibitions (MICE) are being invited to avail of tantalizing financial incentives to hold a future event in Thailand. Announced by the Thailand Convention and Exhibition Bureau (TCEB) in October 2012, the tactical offer is a key component of “Thailand Connect,” a global marketing campaign designed to help the kingdom achieve a 2014 target of 987,000 MICE visitors from abroad, with revenues projected at

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Maxim Blinkov + Shutterstock

by Imtiaz Muqbil

THB 96.9 billion (USD 3.09 billion), up 5 and 10 percent, respectively, over the figures projected for 2013. Corporate buyers and meetings organizers keen to bring their next event to Thailand will be able to entice their clients, corporations, or associations with a variety of options to help them save costs and enhance the participant satisfaction. The exact level of support will depend on the return on investment that the organizers can offer Thailand in terms of the average length of stay, number of participants, and other such

measurable indicators. The “Thailand Connect” campaign was launched at the IT & CMA and CTW Asia-Pacific, which is a major tradeshow for the business and incentive travel and international meetings industries organized annually in Thailand by TTG Asia Media. Now in its 12th year in Thailand, the event was held this year from October 1-3 at the Bangkok Convention Centre at Centara Grand CentralWorld. Altogether, more than 2,600 delegates from 60 countries participated.

Established in 2004, TCEB is a Thai government agency responsible for promoting the MICE sector. It works to drive growth, elevate quality standards, and inspire creativity in the industry. Nopparat Maythaveekulchai, TCEB’s president, said that owing to their high spending and purchasing power, MICE delegates are a very important component of the Thai travel and tourism industry. In 20122013, Thailand hosted a total of 7,382 MICE events, including prestigious mega-events such as the 2012 Rotary International Convention, World Stamp 2013, the 65th World Newspaper Congress, ITU World, Telecom 2013, and more. Nopparat said the new “Connect” campaign will help the TCEB to enhance the global visibility of the Thailand brand as part of its Five-Year Master Plan (2012–2016). The campaign comprises three key strategies: win, promote, and develop. “The key word here is ‘connect.’ We believe that Thailand can ‘connect’ extremely well with global buyers by offering a combined package of three unique selling propositions,” Nopparat said. These USPs are:

• Diversity of Destinations

Thailand’s strategic location at the heart of Asia, together with its convenient facilities and infrastructure, offer visitors an extensive choice of venues covering five “MICE Cities”: Bangkok, Pattaya, Phuket, Chiang Mai, and Khon Kaen. Six international airports connect to 190 destinations worldwide with more than 500 flights per day. Nine conference and exhibition venues offer a combined total exhibition space of 222,984 square meters.

• Unrivalled Business Opportunities

ASEAN’s second-largest economy is poised to play a leading role in the forthcoming unified regional market of the ASEAN Economic Community, or AEC, in 2015. Economic integration will remove trade barriers and bring free transfer of goods, services, skilled labor, trade, and investment among

the ASEAN population of almost 600 million. Thailand is a production and export base for key industries such as automotive and industrial components, computers and IT, energy, rubber, and plastics. In addition, Thailand’s free trade agreements with 11 countries will create more business opportunities.

• High-Quality Professionals

In addition to its legendary hospitality and quality of service, Thailand’s MICE industry has led the world in setting global standards and winning numerous global accolades and awards. ICCA ranked Thailand as worldwide No. 1 by number of international meetings, while UFI ranked Thailand No. 1 by number of international exhibitions. The market promotion packages backing the Thailand Connect campaign include the following:

1) Connect Destinations

For meetings and incentive travel groups, TCEB offers support of THB 200,000 or about USD 6,660 for events with more than 200 participants. Participants must stay at least five nights in Thailand, including an overnight stay in at least one other province apart from the main meeting location.

2) Connect People

For international conferences, TCEB offers support for events from the ASEAN+6 countries, including Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, Myanmar, Vietnam, Korea, Japan, New Zealand, Australia, India, Taiwan, and China (including Hong Kong and Macau).

3) Connect Business

For international exhibitions, TCEB offers special support for business matching activities for trade visitor groups of 15 or more delegates from ASEAN+6 and BIMSTEC countries who travel to attend TCEB-supported international events in Thailand. To qualify for special support of USD 150 per person, the groups must stay a

minimum of three days/two nights, with at least 45 business-matching appointments. Each participant will need at least three business matchmaking appointments; for groups with fewer than 45 appointments in total, the level of support will be USD 100 per person. Nopparat said that “the MICE industry has always played a key role in driving the broader economy, earning revenues of approximately THB 80 billion, or about USD 2.66 billion per year. During the 2013 fiscal year, from October 2012 to August 2013, Thailand welcomed 993,072 MICE travelers, with revenue of over THB 86,280 billion (USD 2.87 billion). Top MICE visitors were from the conventions industry (318,663 visitors), followed by incentive travellers (247,888 visitors), corporate meetings (237,701 visitors), and exhibitions (188,820 visitors). The IT & CMA and CTW AsiaPacific is an important trade show for Thailand because roughly 60% of all the exhibitors and sellers are based in the kingdom, most of them from upcountry destinations. This year marked the first turnout by five Thai cities that are actively promoting MICE events: Bangkok, Pattaya, Phuket, Chiang Mai, and Khon Kaen. In addition, Airports of Thailand (AoT) also promoted its six international airports, Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang (in Bangkok), Phuket, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, and Haad Yai, as gateways for the growing number of regional airlines that are providing direct connectivity to the secondary cities right across ASEAN and the Asia-Pacific regions. The Royal Thai government and the private sector encourage these promotions because the national social and economic development strategy specifically calls for efforts to better spread tourism income around the country and narrow the “development deficit” between both urban and rural areas and the rich and poor income segments of the population. The reasoning is that the more MICE events that can be held in the provinces, especially those in the small and medium-sized category, the better. More info: www.tceb.or.th november 2013 | 39

TRAVEL BUSINESS INSIGHTS

KHON KAEN HELPS RAISE NORTHEAST THAILAND'S PROFILE FOR MICE EVENTS

he presence of two convention centres in the northeastern Thailand province of Khon Kaen, one within the premises of a major university and the other within a major shopping complex, has laid the groundwork for the increasingly important city to market itself as a destination for meetings, incentives, conventions, and exhibitions (MICE). For the first time, Khon Kaen exhibited at an international MICE trade show in Bangkok from 1–3 October 2013. The second-largest province in the northeastern region, Khon Kaen has been designated by the Thailand Convention and Exhibition Bureau as the country’s fifth “MICE City” after Bangkok, Pattaya, Chiang Mai, and Phuket. Once an impoverished region

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Yuganov Konstantin + Shutterstock

by Imtiaz Muqbil

plagued by years of drought, Northeast Thailand will grow in commercial and economic importance when the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) takes hold in 2015. As Khon Kaen’s airport is not yet open to scheduled international flights, the province’s most important linkage comes via the Asian Highway, which passes through en route to the neighbouring landlocked country of Laos. Over the past few years, the Royal Thai government has launched policies to promote Khon Kaen as a major hub for information & communications technology (ICT), agriculture, industry, tourism, and service sectors. This will cover everything from enhancing production of rice, sugarcane, cassava, eucalyptus, and mulberries (for use in Thai silk) to boosting the appeal of tourist attractions, including the

numerous national parks, museums, and heritage sites. The region's heritage as a part of the ancient Khmer empire has given it a rich mix of cultures, traditions, and historical sites. One of the earliest places in the world known to produce bronze ware, Khon Kaen is also famous as a major centre for production of Thailand’s famous Mudmee silk. In addition to being the home of one of Thailand’s most picturesque reservoirs, it has numerous Khmer-style ruins, dinosaur excavation sites, and idyllic rice fields. According to one promotional brochure, “Beyond city limits, the calm, picturesque E-Sarn (Thai for “northeast”) heartlands take over. Commercialisation has yet to encroach upon much of E-Sarn, and the business visitor will quickly discover another facet of the Thai identity here.”

The city’s two convention centres are:

In commemoration of the 50th anniversary of His Majesty the King's accession to the throne, Khon Kaen University constructed the Golden Jubilee Convention Hall. Today, it is considered the pride of northeastern Thailand, located just 4 kilometers from the airport and 1.5 kilometers from the central business district. Equipped with state-of-the-art multimedia technology, the hall is located in the midst of elegantly manicured grounds and has 500 on-site parking spaces, with additional capacity for up to 30 buses. The hall’s campus location makes it perfect for educational and academic conventions and conferences. According to its website, Khon Kaen University is the largest education and learning centre in Northeast Thailand. It was one of four regional universities established in 1964 as part of a decentralized development plan for higher education in Thailand. The roughly 900-hectare campus is today home to more than 2,110 staff in 17 faculties, four academic support centers, two academic services centers, a hospital, and many research institutes and centres of excellence, with more in the pipeline. It has a student population of nearly 24,000 undergraduates and more than 9,700 postgraduates, including 114 international students. It is also host to the E-Sarn software park and the Northeastern Sciences and Technology Park, making KKU an active hub for innovation and research. More info: www.gjchall.com

Khon Kaen Hall, Central Plaza Khon Kaen

Khon Kaen Hall is located in the heart of Khon Kaen adjacent to Central Plaza shopping and a retail complex. The hall itself has an area of 2,500 square meters, with superb audio-visual facilities and an indoor parking lot. More info: www.cpnhall.com/en/ convention_detail.aspx?id=2

29october + Shutterstock

Golden Jubilee Convention Hall, Khon Kaen University

Khon Kaen at dawn

Building upon this “hardware,” Khon Kaen province marked its presence at the IT&CMA and CTW Asia-Pacific trade show in Bangkok in October 2012 by publishing a marketing brochure titled: “10 Reasons to Choose Khon Kaen” for a MICE event. These are the 10 reasons listed: • Conference facilities: Accommodation, experience and service offer genuine value for money. Khon Kaen is recognised for its exquisite accommodation, experiences, and services, all at highly competitive prices. • Convenient location: Khon Kaen is the gateway to Indochina and the Greater Mekong Subregion (GMS). It has convenient links from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang airports (domestic flights only). • Rich culture: Northeast Thailand has a rich cultural background, incredible diversity, and a climate suitable for travel almost year round. • Vibrant and fun: Khon Kaen people are fun-loving, and the city is full of events and celebrations. • Sensational E-Sarn cuisine: A wealth of unique dining experiences. • Warmest hospitality: Khon Kaen offers warm hospitality to make visitors feel welcome and comfortable. The city is also committed to provide the best services and support for the successful hosting of events.

• Combination of city life and countryside: With some of the finest natural spots in the country, Khon Kaen is the ultimate twin-center destination, combining the energy of the city with the fascinating local culture and natural beauty of the rice fields. • Sustainability: The city's abundant natural environment is preserved though progressive city policies. Khon Kaen city has taken on eco-friendly programs such as Building Energy Management System and performs onsite alternative energy testing. • Security: Khon Kaen has earned a reputation as a city with high level of safety, security, and sanitation. It is also a medical and education hub of the Northeastern region. • Value for money plus quality: A “safe bet” meeting destination with tremendous value for money. This fact has made Khon Kaen a popular choice for incentive events. Roll out the red carpet and still keep within budget. Khon Kaen reflects the realities of an emerging Asian century where a new generation of ideas will lead to a new level of thinking. To hold a major convention in such a place is both a networking opportunity and an educational exercise par excellence. That is what Khon Kaen makes different from all the others. november 2013 | 41

HOTELS CHECKING IN

CABOCHON HOTEL Vintage nostalgia in the city center by Federico Brandi

Lookeast | Hotels

angkok’s crowds shopping on the sidewalks of streets full of cars can become overwhelming from time to time. But it’s still possible to find small oases in town that, through luxury and comfort, can transport you to another time and space. Cabochon Hotel is one of them. Located on Sukhumvit Soi 45, not far from Phrom Phong BTS station, Cabochon— a member of Secret Retreats, a small group of luxury boutique hotels in Asia—is housed within the Walpole Building, owned and created by Taiwanese interior designer Eugene Yeh, with ivory-colored windows and columns looking to recreate a chic Shanghai of the 1920s. After spending most of his life traveling and collecting furniture and decorative items from all over the world, Yeh fell in love with Bangkok and decided to build his second home in the city. And Cabochon did feel like a second home for me as well, the night that I stayed there. As opposed to big hotels with large impersonal lobbies, I was welcomed by a smiling and friendly staff who made me feel comfortable and protected since I arrived there. Outside the four-story building there is a small elevated garden—a perfect spot in which to relax and enjoy tranquility during the coolest hours of the day. On

the ground floor, the Joy Luck Club— named after Amy Tan’s novel—has a lounge and two private rooms, and it is decorated like a Parisian salon from the beginning of the 20th century. It features a wooden library and comfortable sofas and armchairs, and it is decorated with Louis Vuitton trunks and other colorful items. Cozy and relaxing, the environment is perfect to enjoy a drink and some finger food, and to even start writing this story. It’s a place where you can spend hours and days just sipping a fresh juice or a glass of wine, reading a book, or chatting with friends and family. A well-balanced use of wood, fabrics, and colors, create both harmony and contrast at the same time. Next to Joy Luck Club there is an authentic vintage store called Wooden Submarine: a small paradise for those who don’t like to go shopping in big and crowded places. The shop carries everything from military accessories from the 1960s to clothes from the mid 1980s, brought by the owner from the US and everywhere else in the world. The store has authentic “vintage collectible” items, meaning that every item you will find there has a story to tell. Across the lobby from Joy Luck Club, Thai Lao Yeh Restaurant is a successful attempt to combine Thai street food with a luxurious

environment. The old-timber wall panels, the hanging birdcages, the open kitchen, the wooden decorations, the tables and seats have been placed to make a smooth transition from Joy Luck Club to the restaurant, keeping the same nostalgia in the ambience. The restaurant’s main room can host around 40 guests, and there are also two VIP rooms, which can accommodate six to eight and ten to 12 diners. Accommodation is on the second floor. There are four studios and four suites, some of them with a balcony. Even though there is a retro feel to the atmosphere, the hotel features every possible modern amenity, from good quality Wi-Fi available even in the most remote corner of the hotel, to cable TV, a minibar, and VOIP phones, among others. Cabochon’s rooftop is also a perfect place to unwind among marble and teakwood, particularly at sunset, when you can enjoy the view of the city lights while swimming in the 22-meter pool, admiring the skyscrapers around you. Most of the hotel’s guests are couple and families, and its main charm in the service is the staff’s ability to make you experience luxury without excess, and with class. Certainly, the hotel offers a cozy and relaxing luxury experience in the city center.

november 2013 | 43

HOTELS CHECKING IN

CAPE DARA: MEET HALFWAY This 5-star resort attracts both Thai and international tourists, offering an experience that subtly brings out the best of the East and the West in a tranquil spot immersed in busy Pattaya.

Twinkle pool at Cape Dara

Lookeast | Hotels

Cape Dara

by Coco Lavender

contemporary indian dining

Spice things up a bit

#71 Sukhumvit Soi 26. | Tel. 02-258-4900 | www.indusbangkok.com | indus@indusbangkok.com

Cape Dara

HOTELS CHECKING IN

Dara Deluxe room

Dara Suite

fter a long week of work, wearing acupressure slippers that massaged my pressure points as I walked into the therapy room at Cape Dara’s Luminous Spa, already seemed like a great way to start my weekend. I would normally go for a traditional Thai-style massage, but this time I decided to try something new: “Meet halfway: a combination of Asian and Western techniques to create a deep sense of relaxation.” My 60 minutes of stress relief therapy began with firm pressure, followed by a deep tissue treatment with Thai aromatic oils. An interesting combination of very different massage styles, merged to perfection to achieve the ultimate goal of my short holiday: relaxing. I was going to be in Pattaya for two days, and I wanted to make efficient use of my time there in order to visit Mimosa, the open-air market, to go and try the banana boat at the island across

Lookeast | Hotels

the cape, Koh Larn, and also spend time on the beach doing nothing at all. It had been a good first day so far. And it got even better when, while immersed in a sumptuous bubble bath in my Dara suite, I was suddenly compelled to open my eyes as I felt a warm light on my face. And there it was: a huge orange sun that had appeared from between the clouds, reflecting a golden light through the bubbles the sparkling wine in my hand. The next activity of my busy agenda was even a more promising one: trying Radius, the hotel’s fusion restaurant located right by the beach. Thai food is one of my favorites, but sometimes I need to go back to my farang flavors. Hence, I thought that night I’d start with a Dara seafood platter and an all-time classic Caesar salad. And wow, I got Isaan-style grilled chicken on my lettuce, and the flavors of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves next to the Norwegian salmon and scallops, all adding nicely

to a smooth transition from fresh to hot, from salty to sweet. The cherry on top was the rack of lamb, which fulfilled entirely my wish to taste some European flavors. Everything was going well, except for the fact that it didn’t look like I was going to be riding the banana boat or going shopping, when the hotel was keeping me busy so many wonderful treats. So I decided to just stay and enjoy the private beach and its two swimming pools—one of which I took a dip in at night, with a view of Pattaya’s city lights. I wondered about the name and found out that “dara” means “star” in Thai. Hence, all the architecture and the interior design of the resort revolve around the theme of a cape that is close to the stars. This motif can definitely be seen in one of the ballroom’s massive chandeliers, which has a galactic feeling to it. Pattaya used to be a tranquil place where Thai families would go to spend a relaxing holiday. Today, the city is full of resorts, activities, and people. However, following the motto, “Once upon time is now, the yesteryear is found again here,” the owners communicate through the interior design their wish to make everybody feel relaxed when spending time there. This was attained by starting with a wide open lobby with a high ceiling that lets the sea breeze come in through it, and by keeping the resort a quiet place with a well-preserved private beach. The sea view from of each of its 264 rooms adds to the tranquility. And when it comes to the service, their staff are also trained to make guests feel like in the old days again, welcoming them with warm smiles. While Cape Dara’s guests are 70 percent Thai (and the rest usually Russia, Korean, or American), the massage I received, the food I tasted, and the peace I experienced in such a busy city as Pattaya made it clear that Cape Dara is all about meeting halfway. Off to Bangkok I went with a smile on my face, knowing it is still possible to find tranquil spots close to the capital.

Ollyy + Shutterstock

LIFESTYLE SHOPPING

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

Shopping! One of the reasons we all love Thailand:

We may be French, Chinese, American, or Thai, but surely we all have one thing in common: we love to shop in Thailand. Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, Gaysorn Plaza, King Power, Emporium, Terminal 21, MBK, Chatuchak, Pahurat Market, Pantip Plazaâ&#x20AC;Ś Whether it is in the traditional way, sheltered from the heat in a crowded mall with refreshing AC, or Thai style in even more crowded indoor or outdoor markets, where the money saved on bargain prices makes up for walking for hours under the sun or the monsoon rain, you will always find a way that suits your shopping style in Bangkok.

november 2013 | 49

LIFESTYLE SHOPPING

Shopping

Masson + Shutterstock

the TRADITIONAL WAY

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

Siam Paragon

Terminal 21

Siam Paragon

Terminal 21 will make you feel as though you are constantly traveling. With architecture designed to resemble an airport terminal, each of its nine floors will take you to a different city, from Carnaby Street in London to San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf. Terminal 21 is the newest lifestyle shopping mall in Bangkok, and it will give you a slightly different shopping experience from that offered by other malls thanks to its numerous privately owned retail stores, as opposed to the big chains present elsewhere. There are also cozy cafés and restaurants, particularly on the top floors. Hours: Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Where: Asok BTS station

Blanscape + Shutterstock

Located at the center of Bangkok’s shopping area, close to Siam Center, Siam Discovery Center, MBK, and Central World, Siam Paragon is easy to reach by BTS, and it is the place where Thai and foreign shoppers go looking for highend international brands, such as Gucci, Armani, Marc Jacobs, Burberry, and Louis Vuitton, among others. But Siam Paragon is not only about shopping: there is a gourmet market and a food hall, plus Thai traditional art shops. In addition, the Blu-O Rhythm & Bowl bowling; Siam Ocean World, Asia’s largest and first giant city center aquarium; and a premium cinema complex will all bring your shopping experience in Paragon to another level. Hours: Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Where: Siam BTS station

Krisada Boonchaleow

Other Shopping Malls Asiatique The Riverfront 5 p.m. to midnight, Chareonkrung Soi 74-76

King Power Downtown Duty Free Mall

Located in Rang Nam Road, not far from Victory Monument BTS station, King Power Complex is the downtown duty-free store of the King Power International Group. It is the place to go for famous international brands, such as Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, and Lacoste, among others. Besides shopping, the complex is also worth a visit for its modern architecture, made of glass and steel. Promotions and discounts are offered to guests of the Pullman hotel, and a pick-up service is provided to and from many hotels, mainly in the city center. The complex also houses the Aksra Theater and Ramayana restaurant. Hours: Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Where: Victory Monument BTS station

CentralWorld 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Siam BTS Central Chidlom 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Chidlom BTS The Emporium 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Phrom Phong BTS Platinum Fashion Mall 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Petchaburi Road

november 2013 | 51

LIFESTYLE SHOPPING

SHOPPING THE Thai way MBK

Phiroon + Shutterstock

Mahboonkrong, or MBK, is the mall to go to and experience how Bangkokians like to shop. Once the largest shopping mall in Asia, MBK is loved by tourists and by Thais, who make up more than half its daily visitors. Conveniently located at the intersection of Phaya Thai Road and Rama I Road, it is easy to reach by BTS. The first three floors are dedicated to clothes and shoes, but cosmetics and beauty products can be found, too. The fourth floor is dedicated to electronics, and many official stores can be found there. On the fifth and sixth floors, different cuisines can be tasted, close to where you can find high-tech, furniture, and souvenir shops. And the last two upper floors are dedicated to entertainment: cinema, bowling, and karaoke. Every Wednesday, for the past 4 years, MBK hosts a Fight Night, a free show with six muay Thai matches. Hours: Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Where: National Stadium BTS station

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

Chatuchak Weekend Market

Jorg Hackemann + Shutterstock

When the shopping experience in Bangkok starts looking repetitive after jumping from one shopping mall to the next, paying a visit to Chatuchak Weekend Market—also known as J.J. by locals—is worthwhile. This is one the largest open-air markets in the world and, because if its intricate little streets and the variety of products it offers, it can easily compete with the world-famous Arab souks. Anything you can possibly imagine can be found in this market, from clothes and shoes to typical Thai handicrafts; from pets and vintage leather items to glassware and bed linen. Lose yourself in its alleys and enjoy every stand and corner, try the food, and remember that at J.J. bargaining is not only suggested, but compulsory. Hours: Open Saturdays and Sundays 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Where: Mo Chit BTS station

CHAINFOTO24 + Shutterstock

Pantip Plaza

Other Markets Chinatown Markets (Khlong Tho, Pahurat, Sampeng Lane, Saphan Lek Market) Variable hours, Chinatown Nailert Market 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Phetchaburi road, opposite Amari Watergate Hotel Pratunam Market 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Phetchaburi Road & Ratchaprarop Road Khlong Toey Market 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Rama IV Road & Narong Road

Penang Market 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., south of Khlong Toey Market Banglamphu Market 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Jakkapong Road Damnoen Saduak Floating Market 7 a.m. to 10 a.m., Samut Sangkhram Ratchaburi province, southwest of Bangkok Bangkok Flower Market (Pak Klong Talad) 24 hours, Chak Phet Road

Located in Phetchaburi road, close to the Platinum Fashion Mall, this shopping plaza is a paradise for all tech enthusiasts in Bangkok. Laptops, cameras, smartphones, tablets, and every other possible hightech gadget can be found in its fivestory building. The range of quality is also wide; it is possible to find both original products as well as “same same” ones. The best way to be certain of the authenticity of the goods is to buy from official resellers. On the fifth floor, IT City offers quality products and, at a large open space on the ground floor, there is a promotion almost every day. A small food court is located on the first floor. Avoid Pantip Plaza during weekends if you don’t like big crowds. Hours: Open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Where: Rachatewi BTS station Also: See page 24 for tips on shopping in Chiang Mai! november 2013 | 53

LIFESTYLE PERSONALITIES

Anchalika Kijkanakorn:

“THE TASK OF JUGGLING MY TWO PASSIONS IN LIFE, MY FAMILY AND MY WORK, HAS NEVER BEEN AN EASY ONE.” The MD of AHMS collection of boutique beachfront resorts and chairman of the board of directors of Small Luxury Hotels of the World tells Lookeast about the challenges of being a businesswoman and a mother.

Akaryn Hospitality Management Services

by Anita Zaror

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

fter spending eight years working abroad in finance, in 2003 Anchalika Kijkanakorn returned to her hometown, Bangkok, to transform a family beachfront holiday villa into a boutique resort in Hua Hin. That was going to be the start of her shift to the hospitality sector and the beginning of a success story for her group, Akaryn Hospitality Management Services (AHMS). Today, Anchalika’s award-winning collection of boutique beachfront resorts encompasses four properties: Aleenta Resort and Spa Hua Hin-Pranburi; AKARYN Samui Resort and Spa; akyra Chura Samui; and Aleenta Resort and Spa Phuket-Phang Nga. She is also currently working on her newest creation, AKARYN Retreat, consisting of 42 villas located on a small private island in Cambodia, for which Kenzo Takada is helping with the design. “I grew up seeing my mother work, and I keep looking back to how she did it … I admired her when she was juggling everything around me and my brother. She’s my role model,” she says. Likewise, and with her mother as an inspiration, the current chairman of the board of directors of Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) has a full plate with what she confesses are her two biggest passions: her two sons and her work. – In March 2013, you became the first woman to become a chairman of the board of directors of SLH. What are the main challenges that you are facing in this role? – The biggest challenge for me is how to get 12 board members to actually agree on something because we’re such a diverse group of people: all independent hoteliers (either owners or GMs) and from different countries. But it’s very interesting to see different reactions on the same topic—it’s a key challenge, but also a key fun factor for me. Anchalika is putting both the female touch on and taking a fresh approach to the way things are being done at SLH. “From where I am, I want to include everyone in the decision-making, and I like to listen to everybody’s opinion, so that’s a bit of a difference in terms of being a woman and the youngest of the board,” she explains.

– Besides your many work responsibilities, you are the mother of two young children. How do you keep your business and your family life in balance? – The task of juggling my two passions in life, my family and my work, has never been an easy one. The most important recipe for me on how I keep an equilibrium between the two is to constantly remind myself on how valuable a role each element plays in my life. My two sons without a doubt will always occupy the spot of the utmost importance in whatever I do each day. However, I also use my relentless commitment to my work to teach them and to inspire them not just to be successful in life and to someday pursue their passions, but also to teach them valuable lessons on how to give back to our community. – How do you think having spent all those years studying in the US influenced your style of doing business? – If there’s one specific thing that I could fully attribute to the experiences and learning that I’ve had while living and studying in the US, it is my unwavering entrepreneurial spirit. This attitude has been the cornerstone of my passion, which led me to create my own hotel brand a decade ago with Aleenta, and it’s the same catalyst that drives me to expand my passion in the hospitality industry. – What are the main changes you have seen in the hospitality sector since your involvement with it, in terms of travelers’ preferences for destinations, hotel services, or traveling style? – From personal experience, I can confidently say that travelers’ needs are constantly evolving, [although] experiencing utmost comfort, premium personalized service, and memorable experience of every destination will always be the primordial prerequisites in every traveler’s mind. The international hospitality landscape is also evolving, with many hotels starting to offer bespoke experiences and exclusive activities to cater to the multifaceted desires of guests. The key ingredients these days are the “takeaway experiences” that transform an ordinary travel

experience into an extraordinary one. A good example of this transformation is Aleenta Phuket. The philosophy behind this boutique resort, besides making guests experience “barefoot luxury,” is enriching their stay by the fact that the property is committed to protecting the environment through programs of the Pure Blue Foundation, also created by Anchalika. “Guests will be immersed with a better understanding of the foundation’s various initiatives and gain insights on how they can make an impact—both positive and negative— whenever they travel. This is a ‘takeaway experience’ most, if not all, travelers will appreciate,” she asserts. – The Pure Blue Foundation is making a big statement when it comes to sustainable tourism. What should the hospitality sector keep in mind when developing expansion plans to try to make the least environmental impact possible? – The Pure Blue Foundation was specifically created by AHMS to ensure that each of our properties are not only making minimal negative impact to the environment, but also as a resounding statement that it is indeed possible to sustain and grow a business without leaving an irreversible scar on nature (…) The growth of tourism in Thailand has been phenomenal, to say the least, in recent years. However, it is also a fact that such growth has impacted the fragile state of our resources. I personally believe that every business entity, not only those in the hospitality industry, should try to build and create an environment-friendly and sustainable operations whenever possible. This is by no means and easy task, but I strongly believe that this is the only way to go. A few days after we interviewed Anchalika, she was leaving for Paris to meet Kenzo to finalize the details about the AKARYN Retreat’s villas design and interior. With all of this on her plate, we wondered if she ever had time to go shopping and what her favorite place to do so was. Her answer: “I don’t shop at all; I pretty much do things online. But, when I go, I head to Central Chidlom and then straight to the toy section.” (Smiles.) november 2013 | 55

LIFESTYLE PERSONALITIES

Bastian Mantey, Executive Chef at The St. Regis Bangkok:

He started collecting restaurant menus at the age of 6. He had his first job with a Michelin-star chef at 18. He’s now 35, and he’s living and sharing his passion for food and wine in Thailand’s capital. by Anita Zaror

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

The St. Regis Bangkok

“IF I HADN’T BEEN A CHEF, I WOULD’VE BEEN A SOMMELIER.”

ome children grow up knowing that one day they want to become a chef. Others don’t know what they will do after graduating from school, and they take a six-week internship in a golf club, where they spend 14 hours a day washing salad and peeling carrots under the supervision of a Michelin-star chef, only to realize they actually like being in the kitchen and decide to make a career out of it. Such is the case of chef Bastian Mantey. Nowadays, Bastian doesn’t cook as much as he did during those six or seven years he spent working for Michelinstar restaurants in Europe. Being the executive chef of The St. Regis Bangkok hotel, a post he has held since February 2013, requires more time managing and training the kitchen staff than standing in front of the stove. Although Bastian loves cooking at home, he finds a lot of competition for his own kitchen here in Thailand. “When you have a day off, there are so many good restaurants, and the street food … there are so many spots to explore. I’ve been here only nine months and I haven’t even seen 10 percent of what I want to see,” he says. When he cooks, however, his favorite places to buy groceries are Villa Market, Tops, and Gargantua, a French butchery in Silom that produces its own sausages, pâtés, and rillettes. And although in these markets—or through suppliers specializing in products from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, and all over the world— he finds many of the flavors he couldn’t normally do without, there is one that he misses: pumpernickel bread from his hometown, in the northwest of Germany, which back home he would eat with butter and air-dried ham. – Leaving aside being in a corporate environment where you have to follow a certain style, what is your preferred line of cooking? – It’s European cuisine, definitely

– south of France cuisine or French techniques. But then I like to cook with fruits in the starters, in the main course, doing salsas, or chutneys. I see fruits as a kind of vegetable, and I love them because they bring freshness into the dishes. Amazed by the color and sweetness of the tropical fruits he found while working in Maldives, Kuala Lumpur, and Bali, Bastian started incorporating papaya, watermelon, and mangoes into his dishes when he lived on the Indonesian island. “I love the fruits you can find here, and combining this with traditional techniques and the best of every product is my guideline.” An oenophile, he claims Thailand doesn’t have a good enough selection of wines available. “The good entry wines from the States, or Europe, or Chile cost so much money here, or you’re not even getting them because they wouldn’t sell— no one would pay USD 100 for wine that costs USD 10 to 15. In terms of variety of grapes, you can find everything, but for ridiculous prices. But because I love it so much, I pay USD 50 to 70 for a bottle of wine that normally is USD 15 to 25; every time it’s a little bit insane, but I always do it, because I don’t want to miss it […] I’m a big Champagne lover as well, so I go for the Champagne, but …” and he sighs again at the cost. – So you drink with pain, then. – No, no, I don’t drink with pain; I order with pain. Like other food and beverage professionals, Bastian foresees that the new tax structure on alcohol implemented by the Thai government will affect the hospitality sector. However, for those like him who refuse to leave Dyonisus’ side, he suggests fresh and fruity wines to pair with Thai food. One such wine is Riesling, Germany’s flagship varietal. Because his family liked to dine out, since he was around 6 years old Bastian

started collecting restaurants menus, and he had around 600 at some point. Now he collects mugs and, although only 50 of them are here with him in Bangkok, he still keeps the other 250 back in his hometown. There is no doubt about his passion for food and drink. But as much as he loves wine, guests and visitors of the restaurants at The St. Regis Bangkok are fortunate that the six-week internship that led him to the success he has achieved at 35, was not pouring wine, but rather washing salad and peeling carrots.

Executive Chef Bastian’s Thai food and wine pairing suggestions (all of these wines are available in Thailand): Papaya salad (som tam) + Riesling, Dr. Loosen, Mosel Valley, Germany It’s “off dry,” so it works well with chili. Indelible lemon and lime edges are the perfect match for the salad. Green curry + Sauvignon Blanc, Cloudy Bay, Marlborough, New Zealand Nectarine and lemongrass tone; fresh and focused, with ripe citrus and mineral notes that go well with the curry. Thai crispy pork belly (moo krawp) snack + Pinot Noir, Hemel en Aarde Valley, Hamilton Russel Vineyards, South Africa A focus on heavy fruits and just a little barrique, which works very well with the crispy pork skin.

november 2013 | 57

LIFESTYLE FASHION

MUST-HAVE ITEMS IN EVERY WOMAN'S CLOSET From diamond stud earrings to red lipstick. From a little black dress to a trench coat. This is the ultimate list of things you had better not do without.

Vladyslav Spivak + Shutterstock

by Kornkanok Yongsakul

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

ven though every woman’s closet changes according to the season and the trends, there are some classic items that you can’t miss if you want to look beautiful and charming no matter where you live or what your age. These 10 must-have items are combinable with almost everything in your wardrobe, and they will help you to achieve any look or style, irrespective of the season. We are talking about “evergreens,” so they can be passed down in the family from one generation to the next. And remember that no matter what your style is, the point is always to have fun and feel confident in your clothes and accessories!

Black Jacket

This is a versatile must-have. You can wear it for a formal business meeting or for a casual night out with friends. The same item can suit different styles: you can go for a very feminine blazer with a tight waist, or for a more alternative masculine-looking cut.

Pearl Necklace

A pearl necklace has the power to change any plain, casual outfit into a fashionable and elegant one. It is always better not to wear it with an outfit that is too traditional, or you will risk achieving the opposite effect. Always prefer long pearl necklaces to short ones for a younger look.

You can find a different cashmere sweater for every personality. If you think you are more of a professional type, go for a slim-fit, V-neck, pastelcolored sweater. For a more casual event, you can opt for an oversized model, combined with a classic pair of skinny jeans.

A black jacket is a versatile must-have

Anton Zabielskyi + Shutterstock

Cashmere Sweater

november 2013 | 59

LIFESTYLE FASHION

Pumps

Pumps are the ultimate pair of shoes for a hot date—there is no better way to make your legs look endless and slim than with a pair of these. But be careful not to overdo it by choosing shoes with excessive patterns on them. Plain colors are always a better choice, and easier to match.

Little Black Dress

A girl should always have a little black dress in her closet. With a classic cut, a black dress will always be the most elegant choice. It can fit fancy and professional occasions, as well as those for which there is no clear dress code.

Pashmina Shawls in Neutral Colors

Diamond Stud Earrings

Red Lipstick

Button-Down Cardigan

When in Thailand, a pashmina is a classical lifesaver when you find yourself in an environment with strong AC. Practical and beautiful, choose it a neutral color, such as camel, so that you can combine it with any outfit.

Red lipstick has become the must-have makeup in recent years. Following the trend of a vintage-retro style, you should always carry one in your purse. It comes in handy when you don’t have time to work on your eye makeup but you still want to look fabulous.

Diamond studs fit with everything. A pair of these is the ultimate classic accessory: traditional, but fashionable. You can wear them all day because they are not heavy, and they will light up your face.

Just like the cashmere sweater, a buttondown cardigan can be oversized or slim fitted depending on your style or the occasion. It’s a warmer substitute for the pashmina shawl, and you should always have a black one in your closet. If it has buttons, avoid combining it with a belt.

Trench Coat

Liv Tyler in a Burberry trench coat

Lookeast | LIFESTYLE

Burberry

KdEdesign + Shutterstock

Subbotina Anna + Shutterstock

A plain color trench coat is a very feminine item for slightly colder weather than Thailand’s. The options are infinite: short, medium, or long length, with or without a waist belt, in different colors, size and position of the buttons, etc. Even if you wear it open, it will still give you a charming and professional look.

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LIFESTYLE WELLNESS

SHOPPING FOR BEAUTY Bangkok is loaded with aesthetic centers that promise they can give their clients more beautiful faces and bodies with their treatments. Well, I decided to find out if they work, for myself. by Coco Lavender

et’s face it: after turning 30, even eating less than before, we are not getting any slimmer. According to experts, metabolism slows down after this age. I hate to admit it, but I can see this in myself. So in an attempt of getting back in shape before my holidays in Hua Hin, I decided to come up with a slimming plan. I stopped eating after 6 p.m. and tried to cut back on nibbling on something in between meals; I switched the pork belly for veg stir-fry, and it was all good … except that I could do this for only three days—some of us were just not born to exercise or diet, especially in this heat, and when living in Thailand tempts you with wonderful food all the time. I had seen a photo of Christina Aguilar, the Filipino-Thai artist, all around Bangkok promoting how she lost 12 kilograms with a program called “Perfect Fat Killer.” I had to go and check it out. So I made an appointment at an aesthetic center called Perfect Slim, determined to go back to the size that I used to wear in my 20s. I got weighed, my body water and fat were checked,

Lookeast | Lifestyle

and what seemed to be a very high-tech machine actually proved to be so when it came up with a customized plan for me based on the information it collected. According to the machine I’m not fat, but the Burberry pants that I used to wear last year are telling me the opposite, and I want to change that. Hence, instead of hiring a personal trainer to kick my bum or limiting the intake of the food I love, I went ahead and bought a slimming package at Perfect Slim. In a program that will consist of ten sessions, with three daily treatments of approximately 20 minutes each, I will be able to have Christina Aguilar’s body— well, close to it. Each set program at the center consists of four phases: draining, slimming, cellulite shaping, and firming, although each phase is customized with the use of one machine or the other depending on each person’s needs. The center also offers the possibility to buy a la carte treatments for specific areas, but my requirement was a very straightforward one: “Get me back in those pants.” Perfect Slim is a Thai brand launched approximately 9 years ago under the name Unisense Slimming Centre, and it was rebranded in 2010. There are

currently nine branches in Bangkok and one in Phuket, and they assured me that thousands of people have already tried their services and have gotten slimmer with their help. Well, at least I know two people who really did: Christina and my boss, who went for the Six Pack Transforming Treatment before his most recent holidays at the beach. To be honest, I didn’t know what to expect of a slimming center, so I have to admit that my first session felt … funny. That day, as they changed the equipment they used on my body every 20 minutes, I felt electricity, cold, heat, tingling, suction, and pressure. The first machine was for draining, the second one for fat balancing, and the third for cellulite shaping. I am on my fourth session now and, what can I say: besides the fact that I already see some changes as my body is shaping up nicely, I like that none of their treatments are invasive or painful, and I love the thought of just lying back and knowing that in less than a month I’ll be doing the same at the beach, proudly wearing my bikini. Way to go, Christina. My favorite place to shop for beauty now seems to be the same as yours.

Follow Coco Lavenderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stories about food, travel, wellness, and luxury every month on Lookeast.

CO CO LAVE N DE R

november 2013 | 63

LIFESTYLE SPA OFFERS

Muthi Maya's Bliss Spa Getaway Package

Kirimaya Golf Resort Spa

What: Kirimaya Golf Resort Spa, Phuket, is offering a two-night stay in a romantic Muthi Maya Forest Pool villa, including daily breakfast, complimentary refreshing welcome drinks at MYTH restaurant, a choice of a 60-minute aromatherapy or Thai massage per person at Maya Spa, an afternoon tea during your stay, and complimentary Wi-Fi access. When: From now until February 28, 2014, subject to availability Where: Kirimaya Golf Resort Spa (1/3 Moo 6 Thanarat Road, Moo-Si, Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima 30130) How much: THB 18,500 More info: 02 257 0455, reservation@kirimaya.com, www.kirimaya.com

Coconut Retreat Spa Package

The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa Phuket

What: Enjoy 90 minutes of pampering with this package that includes an aromatherapy massage or a sports balancing massage (60 minutes), a head massage with organic coconut oil (30 minutes), and complimentary young coconut juice. When: From now until December 31 Where: Ambassador Hotel Bangkok (171 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Bangkok 10110) How much: THB 1,499 net per person More info: 02 254 0444 ext 1254-5, spabkk@amtel.co.th

Glowing in Gold in the Festive Season at Heavenly Spa by Westin

Africa Studio + Shutterstock

What: The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa Phuket is offering two treatments that promise to awaken your senses with powerful and revitalizing effects, at the Heavenly Spa by Westin. The “Luxurious Skin Glow” (105 minutes) consists of steam, scrub, and mask, while the “Luxurious Body Revitalized” (105 minutes) includes steam, scrub, and massage with gold-infused oil. When: From December 1 to January 31, 2014 Where: The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa, Phuket (21/4 Moo 1 T. Rasada, A. Muang, Phuket 83000) How much: THB 3,900++ per treatment, per person More info: 076 335 795, www.westinsiraybay.com

Lookeast | Lifestyle

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok

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WINE&DINE MY FAVORITE PLACE

Boat on the beach at Hua Hin

CHEERS FOR HUA HIN This beach town resort is the favorite place of Siwat Thitipornwatthanakul, sommelier at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. This is why. by Anita Zaror

ometimes there are places that mark our personal story in a way that they define a path for the rest of our lives. For Siwat Thitipornwatthanakul (33), the sommelier at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, that place is Hua Hin. Ten years ago, he had his first glass of red wine at this beach resort town, located less than 200 kilometers south of Bangkok. Back then, Thai wine production was still quite new, and as the industry grew, Siwat’s passion for it also increased to the point that he integrated wine into his professional life. Around the same time, in 2002, Siwat joined the banquet staff at the Four Seasons in Bangkok, and he worked his way up to his current role as the hotel’s sommelier. In June of this year, the industry paid him back all those years of study and hard work by granting him the Gold Award at the Italian Wine Sommelier Competition held in Thailand, organized by the Italian Wine Lovers Society with the support of the Thai-Italian Chamber of Commerce. “Hua Hin has a beautiful beach and it’s easy to get there from Bangkok. It’s

Lookeast | WINE & DINE

like my second home,” he explains. “But what’s really interesting about it is that it escapes from Thailand’s climate and it’s a suitable area to produce wine.” In fact, Hua Hin has a microclimate, and three marked seasons: dry, from November to February; hot, from March to June; and rainy, from July to October. Greater temperature oscillation than in other parts of the country gives the area the right conditions to grow grapes like Colombard, which even wine critic Robert Parker once described as “the biggest surprise,” referring to Monsoon Valley’s 2008 Colombard, admired by its resemblance to the one used to be made in Napa Valley by the owners of Chalone. Klai Kang Won, King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s summer palace, is located in Hua Hin. The town is also a popular spot for Thais and tourists, for young couples and families. In fact, while Siwat enjoyed that first glass of wine with his girlfriend a decade ago, he recently got married and took his daughter for a family photo session there. Here are Siwat’s tips for enjoying the best of Hua Hin.

Bring Your swimming suit, and the desire to relax and enjoy the seafood. Must-do Shop under the starts and enjoy live music at Cicada, Hua Hin’s open-air night market. Don’t do Don’t go when there’s a holiday or festival taking place, as it gets too crowded. “That’s not Hua Hin anymore, it’s Bangkok!” Siwat claims. Must-see Monsoon Valley winery; it has a nice restaurant where you can taste some of their award-winning wines. Eat at The fish and seafood market in Khao Takiab, a town located south from Hua Hin where, according to Siwat, you’ll find the freshest seafood if you go at 6 a.m. Drink at Siam Winery-enjoy their panoramic view and see elephants passing by. Sleep at Rent a house and feel at home. Then you can also buy the fresh seafood from Khao Takiab and cook it yourself!

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

WHAT’S NEW AT SIAM PARAGON’S FOOD HALL Start with a bowl of Japanese seafood rice, continue with frozen yogurt, and finish with a freshly brewed Italian coffee. by Laurence Civil

Hokkai-Don

Lookeast | wine & dine

Anita Zaror

Hokkai-Don’s design makes customers feel they’re being seated at the edge of a pier.

Anita Zaror

Rice is Japan’s most important crop, and a bowl of it is a central part of the country’s cuisine. “Hokkai” refers to the place where many of Hokkai-Don’s fresh ingredients come from: Hakkoda, Japan. The suffix “don” is the short version of donburi: a simple and fast Japanese meal consisting of a bowl of cooked rice topped with a variety of meat, fish, and vegetables. Many restaurants in the outer zones of Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market sell it as a popular option for lunchtime. Hokkai-Don is the first restaurant in Thailand to serve this style of Japanese dish, offering it as an alternative to the traditional sushi and sashimi preparations. Being at the restaurant feels like being seated at the edge of a pier, where fishermen bring their catch back from the sea to be served fresh. Targeting both Thai and foreign customers, the dining room’s rustic light wood bar surrounded by tables could make commensals forget they are inside a food court. The branch occupies 53 square meters. A second location to be opened next year at EmQuartier shopping mall will have double the floor space,

Anita Zaror

he Food Hall on the ground floor of Bangkok’s Siam Paragon is home to some 50 carefully selected restaurants that offer a myriad of dining opportunities. The three most recent additions to the hall are Hokkai-Don, with its rice bowl dish concept, and two leading brands from the UK: yoomoo, the frozen yogurt chain, and Costa Coffee, established in London in 1971 by Italian brothers Sergio and Bruno Costa.

and it will cater more toward Japanese customers. Hokkai-Don is all about fresh ingredients: mackerel is imported daily from Japan; soy sauce is boiled to caramelize its natural sugar and give it a sweet taste; rice is grown locally by a Japanese farmer who lives in Chiang Rai, and its flavor is authentic, as the rice has been cooked with mirin and then allowed to cool, a key step in improving taste. The restaurant also serves a clear soup made from fish trimmings, as

opposed to the classic miso soup usually served in Japanese restaurants. We tasted three rice bowls: the Double Salmon Don, topped with ikura, fresh salmon, and grilled salmon; the Ume Don, with maguro, hokkigai, hotate, ikura, kanikama, and uni, and the Aburi Don, with maguro, engawa, hotate, ikura, salmon, and tamago. A tip from the chef is to eat the seafood as soon as it’s served because oxidization will quickly reduces its flavor and color.

This is Costa Coffee’s 1,000th branch outside the UK. Its coffee is a unique blend of Arabica and Robusta beans that are slowly roasted with no direct heat contact, to avoid burning. A total of 6,100 metric tons of this blend, known as “Mocha Italia,” are roasted every year in Lambeth, London, to be sold in 2,500 stores in 30 countries. Costa Coffee’s beans are selected from farms that are certified by the Rainforest Alliance, and the company’s mission statement is “to save the world from mediocre coffee.” Among other policies, they accomplish this by having their baristas make 1,000 cups of coffee before leaving school, and by teaching them to have the confidence to serve a perfect cup every time, using only machines imported from Italy in order to get the right taste and showcase the quality of their medium roast coffee beans.

Costa Coffee’s living room area, at Siam Paragon.

Yoomoo

While studying business at the University of Bath in the UK, Pattrinee Anuwongnukroh, brand manager of yoomoo Thailand, discovered this premium frozen yogurt and fell in love with it at the yoomoo bar on the 4th floor of Harrods department store. Yoomoo is fat-free, gluten-free, made with fresh British milk, a rich source of calcium, and with no nasties allowed. Picking up on the trend that Thais are slowly changing their eating habits to more healthful, fat-free diets, Anuwongnukroh spent a year putting her business plan together to now share her “love affair” with Bangkok. “The ingredients are shipped to Thailand in powder form,” she explains. “We then blend it with water filtered to a specified pH level, and freeze it to ensure total consistency of taste. At the request of The Mall Group, the model for this branch is similar to the one in Harrods.” Yoomoo is probably as close as it gets to a guilt-free dessert, and it comes in an assortment of flavors. You’ll find

yoomoo frozen yogurt in the form of Devilmoo, chocolate frozen yogurt with swirls of chocolate sauce and rich brownie chunks, topped with milk chocolate stars; Tropicoolmoo, with juicy mango and passion fruit sauces, topped with tangy freeze-dried mango puree pieces; Strawbswirlmoo, with strawberry sauce and with freeze-dried strawberry pieces; and Veryberrymoo, natural and blueberry fro-yo topped with mixed berries, granola, and swirls of raspberry sauce. The list also includes Cherrychocmoo, Vanillamoo, and Nakedmoo, a natural flavor you can use to create your own unique taste, among many others. On the 4th floor of Harrods, a regular portion of Yoomoo’s frozen yogurt costs GBP 5.50 (THB 270), while the same serving size costs just THB 199 in Bangkok. And because the portions are generous, one of them could easily be shared by two dessert lovers. Our tip: eat first and talk later, as frozen yogurt melts quickly.

Yoo Moo

Costa Coffee

Devilmoo: chocolate flavor frozen yogurt with swirls of chocolate sauce and rich brownie chunks.

november 2013 | 69

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

PERFUME: FRAGRANCE BAR AND AROMATIC CUISINE A story of dreams that come true by Federico Brandi

Lookeast | wine & dine

with little umbrellas. I studied in the Hawaii, I know that!” “That’s one of the reasons why many cocktail bars become wine bars,” adds Arin. It took the pair a year and half to decide on the concept of their new place, as they were looking for something both fashionable and easy to sell. “I thought: when I create cocktails, I have to think of the balance of ingredients. It could be similar to the creation of perfumes. So I decided to take a short course on perfumery when I was in France,” explains Thumb. Combining his background in mixology—which he warns us not to call “molecular gastronomy” —and his knowledge in perfumery, he started forging a new path for their place. “Perfume was perfect,” continues Arin. “It is unisex, fashionable, and classic, but still, perfumes evolve. That’s the concept we were looking for: to

create something classical but futuristic. We want sell an experience of the senses.” Having figured out the concept, the next step was the location. “We wanted to be on Thong Lo,” says Arin, “We were really stubborn about that.” And so, Perfume is now located at the left corner of 8 Thonglor Building, in Sukhumvit Soi 55. According to Arin, the concept of perfume is reflected in every detail: food, drinks, and design. “We worked with very talented interior designers to express in the design of the place the same combination of classic and futuristic we have in food and drinks, and we came up with a neo-European concept,” he says. And, yes, the use of metal in contrast to classic materials such as marble, leather, and wood does give Perfume a post-modern look.

Federico Brandi

ow many times have you heard of someone whose dream it is to open a restaurant or a bar? Natakorn Changrew (Thumb) was working in the real estate sector, and his creativity and artistic side brought him to study mixology in Hawaii. Arin Malhotra was studying in Australia, where he worked as a business development manager for the IT sector. But despite being involved in completely different sectors, Thumb and Arin had something in common: a passion for food and drink. And that was the start of Perfume: Fragrance Bar and Aromatic Cuisine, a place where they “sell experiences of the senses” and with which both saw the dream of opening a bar and restaurant— with a strong character and a story behind it—come true. “The cocktail market in Thailand is very young,” says Thumb. “Men still think of them as something fruity and

Federico Brandi

The venue features a very large bar and an open kitchen, to show the skills and quality behind every product. “We produce our ice with pH control, and we grow most of our ingredients,” explains Thumb. “Every alcohol we use has no preservatives, improving drastically the quality of the drinks.” “Tastes are limited, so stimulating the different senses and using food science is like adding colors to your palette,” says Thumb. Another important part is presentation. “Molecular gastronomy is usually all about test tubes and gels,” he continues. “It is fascinating but repetitive, and it tends to fade in clients’ memories. We want something that lasts.” And there’s nothing that can remind us so much of strong memories than smell. The kitchen and the bar cooperate constantly, and chefs and bartenders

exchange ideas and tools to create new things. Every dish with a “V” in the menu is for vegetarians and, and they can even make it vegan, if you ask; gluten-free options are also coming up soon. The staff’s attention to detail is almost excessive, and I can feel the extreme level of professionalism they want to achieve in everything. “We want to revise the classics, adding a personal touch to the standard ingredients and recipes,” they say. And, how lucky are we, that they were willing to give us a real example of this by sharing the recipe of one of their classics with Lookeast’s readers: the “Bangkok Blush,” a spinoff of the traditional margarita. If you wish to try something out of the ordinary, Perfume will give you a delectable experience through the senses. Try the Bubble-52 and let us know though www.facebook.com/ LookeastMag how you liked it!

The “Bubble-52” maintains the taste of the classic B-52, with a different texture

The “Smoking Aces” drink has an aroma of apple shisha

Bangkok Blush Ingredients: Tequila Triple sec Lime juice Perrier sparkling water Syrup (it can be prepared by boiling water and sugar at a 1:1 ratio) Butterfly pea flowers Preparation: 1. Add the butterfly pea flowers to the syrup to give it a dark blue color. 2. Mix 1 part tequila, 1 part butterfly pea flower syrup and ½ part of triple sec 3. Add Perrier and shake 4. Prepare the glass by putting some salt on half a side, and keep the lime on the other side. When you pour on the lime juice, the blue will change to a bright pink, creating a beautiful effect.

november 2013 | 71

Federico Brandi

The concept of perfume is behind the restaurant’s design and cuisine

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

UP & ABOVE A fresh buffet and a la carte dining, 24 floors above Ploenchit

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

by John Howe

View from Up & Above at night

’ve found a place of quietness and calming peace 24 floors above Ploenchit. The road to this space for recharging and revitalizing is called Up & Above, and it’s located at the west side of The Okura Prestige hotel. Walking into Okura’s lobby feels like entering a world of tranquillity. Past a small Japanese garden with patterns shaped like gentle oscillating waves, and into a large open space where a long bar stands center stage, I found as a backdrop a glass wall that reveals the spectacular panorama of Wireless Road and its lushly-gardened embassies. In a place surrounded by silence, with no intrusive waiters, and just an environment made for contented eating, I wandered around the buffet stations. I grabbed some sushi, shiny pink prawns and shrimp, smoked salmon, fleshy tuna steaks, and crayfish along with the tastiest, plumpest muscles it has ever been my pleasure to devour. If there’s one reason that would take me back to Up & Above’s seafood buffet, is the freshness of the ingredients.

Lookeast | wine & dine

At the equally enticing Thai buffet, I particularly enjoyed the larb; it was tart, but the zing only made this typical Isaan dish authentic in taste and texture. For those not into Thai food, there is also a Western buffet selection. Thai and Western sweets abound; shot-type glasses filled to the brim with mousses made from all kinds of berries tempt the eye and the appetite, as do the vibranthued macarons and dainty fruit tarts, crème brûlée, and ice creams. Something a little more Asian is the superb selection of regional fruits, from mango (along with sticky rice) and star fruit, to dragon fruit and melon. Having left a little space to try items from the a la carte menu, I spent some time mulling over the extensive list of dishes. The yam talay, a spicy seafood salad of muscles, prawns, and squid, was perfectly cooked to bring out the flavor of the shellfish, while the spices only enhanced the freshness of the ocean. The duck was moist, with firm flesh, and its rich red sauce was smooth and creamy.

By this time I was a sated but happy eater, so much so that I can highly recommend both the buffet and the a la carte lunch at Up & Above. I will also be returning for Britain’s great contribution to world culture: the afternoon high tea and hard-to-ignore chocolate boxes—the kind of British legacy that I admire and that is, thankfully, now available in Bangkok.

ntures Ecoplex, Where: Park Ve , Lumpini, 57 Wireless Road kok Pathumwan, Bang 02 687 9000, Reservations: urabangkok.com upandabove@ok ily. Breakfast, 6 Hours: Open da .; lunch, noon to a.m. to 10:30 a.m 0 6:00 p.m. to 10:3 2:30 p.m.; dinner ch 11:45 a.m. to pm; Sunday brun 3:00 p.m. Website: ngkok.com www.okuraba

WINE&DINE DINING SPECIALS

Diwali at Indus

D.Shashikant + Shutterstock

What: Indus invites you to a culinary journey through the magical festival of lights, with a specially designed vegetarian and non-vegetarian menu to be enjoyed indoors or in the garden, surrounded by hundreds of candles. The menu includes an amuse bouche, a starter, a main course, dessert, and tea or coffee When: November 4 Where: Indus (7 Suhumvit Soi 26, Bangkok) How much: THB 1,200 net or THB 1,800 net with wine pairing More info: 02 258 4900, www.indusbangkok.com

Cordero Di Montezemolo Wine Dinner

Markus Mainka + Shutterstock

What: Enoteca Italiana, in collaboration with Texica Wine, is hosting this winemakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dinner, consisting of welcome appetizer with Prosecco Bottega, Mediterranean sea bream carpaccio with Langhe Arneis 2011 DOC, slow-cooked egg and fresh white truffle from Alba with Langhe Nebbiolo 2011 DOC, risotto with onions from Tropea and quail with Barolo Monafalletto 2008 DOCG, sous-vide lamb shoulder with Jerusalem artichoke, paired with Barolo Enrico VI 2008 DOCG, and dessert with Grappa Bottega. When: Thursday, November 7 at 7 p.m. Where: Enoteca Italiana (Sukhumvit Soi 27, Bangkok 10110) How much: THB 3,900 net per person More info: 02 258 4386

november 2013 | 73

ATIKARN MATAKANGANA + Shutterstock

WINE&DINE DINING SPECIALS

Sofitel So Bangkok

Pattaya International Fireworks at Cape Dara

Sofitel So Bangkok

What: Cape Dara Resort invites you to experience the spectacular display of the annual firework competition with a promotional barbecue seafood buffet When: November 29 and 30 Where: Cape Dara Resort (256 Dara Beach, Soi 20 Pattaya-Naklua Road Pattaya 20150) How much: THB 2,700 net per person for the barbecue seafood buffet (includes drinks), THB 1,800 net per person for the seafood buffet only, and THB 900 for drinks only. Room packages start from THB 9,590 net. More info: 038 933 888

What: For the first time in Bangkok, Paris-based Michelin-star chef Alain Pégouret will give a five-course gala dinner at Park Society to share his celebrated cuisine alongside Château Palmer’s finest wines. This is a unique occasion to discover five vintages of Château Palmer’s “Alter Ego” and other Château Palmer wines while having the privilege of discovering Pégouret’s first event in Bangkok. When: November 9 at 7:30 p.m. Where: Park Society, Sofitel So Bangkok (2 North Sathorn Road, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500) How much: THB 17,600 net per person More info: 02 624 0000, h6835-fb5@sofitel.com

Lookeast | wine & dine

Northgate Bangkok

Gala Dinner by Michelin-Star Chef Alain Pégouret and Château Palmer

Two Forty Eight Café & Bar Presents "Special A La Carte"”

What: Teekanun Mandachitra, Two Forty Eight Café & Bar’s executive chef, invites you to discover the new “Special a La Carte” promotion, with dishes like lamb shank with rosemary and mint sauce, and salmon fillet with white wine and light cream sauce. When: Daily from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., from now until November 30 Where: Two Forty Eight Café & Bar, Northgate Ratchayothin (248 Ratchadapisek Road, Ladyao, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900) How much: Starting THB 390++ More info: 02 939 7949, www.northgatebangkok.com

WINE&DINE DINING SPECIALS

What: Experience a sizzling dining occasion at The Colonnade, The Sukhothai Bangkok, with the special menus prepared from original recipes from Executive Chef Antony Scholtmeyer. Appetizers include oysters, sautéed foie gras, French onion soup and rustic lentil soup; a choice of premium meat such as Australian pasture-fed beef fillet or veal chop for the main course; fresh seafood; and desserts such as cherries jubilee, chocolate mousse, and a traditional crème brûlée, among others. When: From now until March 31, 2014 Where: The Colonnade at The Sukhothai (13/3 South Sathorn Road, Bangkok 10120) How much: THB 900++ for two courses (appetizer or soup and main course or dessert), and THB 1,100++ for three courses (appetizer or soup, main course, and dessert) More info: 02 344 8888, promotions@sukhothai.com

MIGUEL GARCIA SAAVEDRA + Shutterstock

Sizzle the Night Away with Classic, Delectable Grills at The Colonnade

The Sukhothai

The Zuk Bar has introduced a Japanese izakaya menu offering an array of à la carte sushi and sashimi, including maguro or yellowfin tuna, shake or salmon, and hamachi or yellowtail, plus tempura and yakitori such as wagyu sirloin, scallops in bacon, and Australian sirloin. Bento sets include a sashimi set, nigiri sushi, and tempura sets. When: Monday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Sunday from noon till midnight Where: The Zuk Bar, The Sukhothai Bangkok (13/3 South Sathorn Road, Bangkok 10120) How much: Variable More info: 2344 8888, promotions@sukhothai.com

Lookeast | wine & dine

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Japanese Izakaya at The Zuk BarWhat:

Savor Chef Kesinee's Exotic Lemongrass Cuisine at basil

What: Chef Kesinee invites lovers of authentic Thai cuisine to savor a selection of her exotic lemongrass dishes at basil. Enjoy appetizers like moo tod ta-krai nga khao (deep-fried marinated pork loin with white sesame and crispy lemongrass); main courses like goong pad nam prik pao ta-krai oon (stir-fried tiger prawns with roasted curry paste and fresh spring lemongrass); and desserts like woon ta-krai nom sod (lemongrass-infused panna cotta). When: All of November and December, Monday to Friday from 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Where: Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (250 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok) How much: THB 350 ++ per dish More info: 02 649 8888

Sofitel So Bangkok

WINE&DINE BAR SPECIALS

What: All ladies receive one free glass of Chandon to kick off the evening! When: Every Wednesday from 9 p.m. to 11 p.m. Where: HI-SO, Sofitel So (2 North Sathorn Road, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500) How much: THB 250++ for cocktails and THB 1,950++ for a bottle of Chandon More info: 02 624 0000, h6835-fb5@sofitel.com

lebua

Hi-So Ladies’ Night Sofitel So Bangkok

Three New Cocktail Series at Distil, Tower Club at lebua

What: Lebua’s mixologist Ron Ramirez has been busy creating three new cocktails series: “Aged,” created through two processes of macerating fruits, first by spraying them with house-made jasmine bitters for three days, then adding the mixture to a fine bourbon and aging it in a French oak barrel for 50 days. The “Art” series uses various techniques, including shaking, muddling, smoking, foaming, macerating, building, and stirring, in their creations, one of which is Earl’s River, a light cocktail named after Earl Grey tea. And the “G&T” is consists of premium gin infused with other flavors at low temperatures. When: Daily from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Where: Distil Bar, 64th floor of lebua (1055 Silom Road, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500) How much: Variable More info: 02 624 9550-2

What: Hansar Samui is offering 90-minute cocktail-making classes that allow guests to get hands on behind the bar by shaking up two different types of cocktails as well as learning some bar skills and tricks. At the completion of the class, participants get to relax and enjoy their creations with canapés. They also receive a certificate, a souvenir gift and a further farewell drink. When: Mondays and Fridays from 3 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Where: Chill Lounge, Hansar Samui (101/28 Moo 1 Bophut, Koh Samui 84320) How much: THB 1640 net per person or THB 2,800 per couple More info: 077 245 511, reservation@hansarsamui.com

Lookeast | wine & dine

Hansar Samui

Learn to Shake, Muddle, and Stir with Hansar Samui’s New Cocktail Classes

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DIRECTORY HOTELS

Bangkok AMARI BOULEVARD: 2 Soi 5 Sukhumvit Rd (Nana Bts) Tel: 02 255 2930, www.amari.com/boulevard AMARI ATRIUM: 1880 New Petchburi Rd Tel: 02 718 2000, 02 718 2020, www.amari. com/atrium AMARI DON MUANG AIRPORT: 333 Chert Wudthakas Rd, Don Muang Tel: 02 566 1020, www.amari.com/donmuang AMARI WATERGATE: 847 Petchburi Rd Tel: 02 653 9000, 02 653 9101/8, www.amari. com/watergate ANANTARA BANGKOK RESORT & SPA: 257 Charoennakorn Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS To hotel’s ferry) Tel: 02 476 0022, www.bangkok-riverside. anantara.com BANYAN TREE BANGKOK: 21/100 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 679 1200, www.banyantree.com CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD: 999/99 Rama 1 Rd (Chidlom BTS) Tel: 02 100 1234, www.centralhotelresorts. com CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO: 1695 Phaholyothin Road, Chatuchak Tel: 02 541 1234 CONRAD BANGKOK ALL SEASONS PLACE: 87 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 690 9999, www.conradhotel.com CROWNE PLAZA BANGKOK LUMPINI PARK: 952 Rama Iv Rd (Sala Daeng MRT) Tel: 02 632 9000, www.crownplazabkkk.com DAVIS BANGKOK, THE: 88 Sukhumvit 24 (Phrom Phong BTS) Tel: 02 260 8000, www.davisbangkok.net DREAM HOTEL: 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (Asoke Sala Daeng Sala Daeng BTS) Tel: 02 254 8500, www.dreambkk.com DUSIT THANI, THE: 946 Rama Iv Rd (Sala Daeng BTS) Tel: 02 200 9000, www.dusit.com EUGENIA, THE: 267 Sukhumvit Soi 3 Tel: 02 259 9011/7, www.theeugenia.com EASTIN GRAND HOTEL SATHORN: 33/1 South Sathorn Road (Surasak BTS) Tel: 02 210 8100, www.eastinbangkokhotel. com FOUR SEASONS BANGKOK: 155 Ratchadamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS) Tel: 02 126 8866, www.fourseasons.com/ bangkok FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON: Sukhumvit Soi 15 (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 309 3000, www.starwoodhotels.com

Lookeast | DIRECTORY

GRAND HYATT ERAWAN: 494 Ratchadamri Rd (Chidlom BTS) Tel: 02 254 1234, www.bangkok.grand.hyatt. com

PENINSULA BANGKOK: 333 Charoennakorn Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS to hotel ferry) Tel: 02 861 2888, www.bangkok.peninsula. com

HILTON SUKHUMVIT: 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Phrom Phong BTS) Tel: 02 620 6666, www.hilton.com

PLAZA ATHENEE HOTEL: 61 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 650 8800, www.hotel-plaza-athenee. com

HOLIDAY INN SILOM: 981 Silom Rd (Surasak BTS) Tel: 02 238 4300, www.holidayinnsilom.com KEMPINSKI SIAM HOTEL: 991/9 Rama I Rd (Siam BTS) Tel: 02 162 9000, www.kempinski.com MUSE HOTEL: 55/555 Langsuan Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 630 4000, www.hotelmusebangkok. com IMPERIAL QUEEN’S PARK: 199 sukhumvit Soi 22 (Phrom Phong BTS) Tel: 02 261 9000, www.imperialhotels.com/ queenspark INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK: 9743 Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS) Tel: 02 656 0444, www.intercontinental.com JW MARRIOTT BANGKOK: 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2 (Ploenchit BTs) Tel: 02 656 7700, www.marriot.com/bkkdt LANDMARK BANGKOK: 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 254 0404, www.landmarkbangkok. com FENIX, LE: 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 305 4000, www.lefenix-sukhumvit. com LEBUA AT STATE TOWER: 1055 Silom Rd (Surasak BTS) Tel: 02 624 9999, www.lebua.com/bangkok/ MILLENNIUM HILTON: 123 Charoennakorn Rd (boat shuttle from Saphan Taksin BTS) Tel: 02 422 2000, www.bangkok.hilton.com METROPOLITAN, THE: 27 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 625 3333, www.metropolitan.com.bz NOVOTEL: 392/44 Siam Square (Siam BTS) Tel: 02-209-8888, www.novotelbkk.com ORIENTAL MANDARIN, THE: 48 Oriental Ave. (Saphan Taksin BTS to hotel ferry) Tel: 02 659 9000, www.mandarinoriental. com OKURA PRESTIGE, THE: 57 Wireless Rd (Phloen Chit BTS) Tel: 02 687 9000, www.okurabangkok.com PATHUMWAN PRINCESS: 444 Phayathai Rd (National Stadium BTS) Tel: 02 216 3700, www.dusit.com

PULLMAN SILOM HOTEL G: 188 Silom Rd (Chong Nonsi BTS) Tel: 02 238 1991/99, www. pullmanbangkokhotelg.com RADISSON SUITES: 23/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 13 (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 645 4999, www.radisson.com/ bangkokth_sukhumvit REMBRANDT HOTEL: 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 261 7100, www.rembrandtbkk.com RENAISSANCE HOTEL: 518/8 Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS) Tel: 02 125 5000, www.renhotels.com/ bangkok ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON: 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30, Siphya Tel: 02 266 0123, www.royalotchidsheraton. com SHANGRI-LA, THE: 89 Charoen Krung Rd (Saphan Taksin BTS) Tel: 02 236 7777, www.shangri-la.com SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT: 250 Sukhumvit Rd (Asoke BTS) Tel: 02 649 8888, www.starwoodhotels.com/ bangkok SIAM HOTEL KEMPINSKI: 991/9 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam) Tel: 02 162 9000, www. kempinski.com SOFITEL BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT: 189 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 13-15 (Nana BTS) Tel: 02 126 9999 www.sofitel.com SOFITEL SO BANGKOK: 2 North Sathorn Road (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 624 0000 SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK, THE: 13/3 South Sathorn Rd (Lumpini MRT) Tel: 02 344 8888, www.sukothai.com SWISS HOTEL: 2 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS) Tel: 02 253 0123, www.bangkok-nailertpark. swisshotel.com SWISS LODGE: 3 Convent Rd (Sala Daeng BTS) Tel: 02 233 5345, www.swisslodge.com ST REGIS BANGKOK: 159 Rajdamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS) Tel: 02 207 7777, www.starwoodhotels.com

UNICO PREMIER METROLINK: 57 AsokeDindaeng Rd (Petchaburi MRT) Tel: 02 652 9000, www. unicopremiermetrolink.com VIE HOTEL BANGKOK: 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd (Phayathai BTS) Tel: 02 309 3939, www.viehotelbangkok.com WESTIN GRANDE SUKHUMVIT: 259 Sukhumvit Rd (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 207 8000, www.westin.com/bangkok WINDSOR SUITES HOTEL: 8-10 Sukhumvit Soi 20 (Asok BTS) Tel: 02 262 1234, www.windsorsuiteshotel. com Pattaya AMARI ORCHID: Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 418 418, www.amari.com Centara Grand Mirage beach resort: Pattaya 277 Moo 5 Tel: 038 301 234, www.centarahotelsresorts. com

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL CHIANG MAI: Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road 50180 Tel: 053 298 181

DEEVANA PATONG RESORT & SPA: 43/2 Rai-u-Thid 200 Pee Rd Tel: 076 341 414/5, www.deevanaphuket.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL CHIANG MAI: 51/4 Chiang Mai, Sankampaeng Road Moo 1 T. Tasala A. Muang Tel: 053 888 888

DUSIT THANI LAGUNA: 390 Moo 1, Srisoontorn Rd Tel: 076 362 999, dusitthanilagunaphuket. dusit.com

RACHAMANKHA: 6 Rachamankha 9, T Phra Singh Tel: 053 904 111, 053 814 521, www. rachamankha

JW MARRIOTT PHUKET RESORT & SPA: 231 Moo 3, Mai Khao Tel: 076 338 000 ext 35252, www.marriott. com

RATILANNA RIVERSIDE SPA RESORT: 33 Chang Klan Rd Tel: 053 999 333, www.ratilnnachiangmai. com

JW MARRIOTT KHAO LAK RESORT & SPA: 41/12 Moo 3, Khuk Khak Tel: 076 584 888, www.marriott.com

Hua Hin CAPE NIDHRA HOTEL: 97/2 Petchkasem Rd Tel: 032 516 600, www.capenidhra.com SHERATON HUA HIN RESORT & SPA: 1573 Pechkasem Rd, Tumbol Cha-Am Tel: 032 708 000

CENTARA GRAND RESIDENCE PATTAYA: Soi Na Jomtien 6, Moo 1, Jomtien Beach, Chonburi Tel: 038 706 407, www.cgrpattaya.com

DUSIT THANI: 1349 Petchkasem Rd Tel: 032 520 009, www.dusit.com

CAPE DARA RESORT: 256 Dara beach, Soi 20, Pattaya-Naklua Rd Tel: 038 933 888

AMARI PALM REEF RESORT: Chaweng beach road Tel: 077 422 015/19, www.amari.com

DUSIT THANI: 240/2 Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 425 611/7, www.dusit.com

CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT: 38/2 Moo 3, Bophut, Chaweng beach Tel: 077 230 500, www.centralhotelsresorts. com

GARDEN CLIFF RESORT & SPA: 220/2 Moo 5, Soi Naklua 16 Tel: 038 259 333, www.gardencliffpattaya. com HILTON PATTAYA HOTEL: 333/101 Moo 9 Tel: 038 253 000, www.hilton.com HARD ROCK HOTEL: 429 Moo 9, Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 428 755/9 , www.hardrockhotels.net PATTAYA MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA: 218/2-4 Pattaya beach Rd Tel: 038 412 120, www.marriottotels.com ROYAL CLIFF HOTEL: 353 Phra Tamnak Rd, Pattaya Tel: 038 250 421, www.royalcliff.com SHERATON PATTAYA RESORT: 37 Phra Tamnak Rd Tel: 038 259 888, www.sheraton.com/ pattaya/com ZIGN, THE: 555/65 Moo 5, 12 Naklua Rd Tel: 038 909 800/20, www.thezignhotel.com Chiang Mai CHEDI CHIANG MAI, THE: 123-123/1 Charoen Prathet Rd Tel: 053 253 333, www.ghm.hotels.com

Koh Samui

FOUR SEASONS KOH SAMUI: 219 Moo 5, Angthong Tel: 077 243 000

KANTARY BEACH HOTEL VILLAS AND SUITES: 64, 65 Moo2, Kukkak Tel: 076 584 700, www.kantarycollection.com MÉRIDIEN PHUKET BEACH, LE: 29 Soi Karon Nui Tel: 076 370 100, www.lemeridien.com MÉRIDIEN KHAO LAK BEACH & SPA RESORT, LE: 9/9 Moo 1 Tambol Kuk Kak Tel: 076 427 500, www.starwoodhotels.com/ lemeridien KANTARY BAY HOTEL, THE: 31/11 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd Tel: 076 391 514, www.kantarybay-phuket. com THE NAKA ISLAND: 32 Moo 5, Tambol Paklok, Amphur Thalang, Naka Yai Island Tel: 076 371 400 WESTIN HOTELS AND RESORTS: 21/4 Moo 1 T. Rasada A. Muang Tel: 076 335 600 Krabi

SANTIBURI RESORT: 12/12 Moo 1, Maennam Tel: 077 425 031/5, www.santiburi.com

AMARI VOGUE RESORT: 149 Moo 3 Tambol Nongtalay Tel: 075 607 777, www.amari.com/vogue

THE LIBRARY 14/1 Moo 2 Chaweng Beach, Bo Phut Tel: 077 422 767-8

CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT & VILLAS: 420/22 Moo 2 Aonang Ao Nang Tel: 075 661 027, www.centralhoetlresorts. com

TONGSAI BAY COTTAGES & HOTEL: 84 Moo 5, Bophut Tel: 077 245 480, www.tongsaibay.co.th

SHERATON KRABI: 155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Muang Tel: 075 628 000

Phuket

SOFITEL KRABI PHOKEETHRA GOLF & SPA RESORT: Klong Muang beach, Tel: 075 627 800, www.sofitel.com/6184

AMANPURI PHUKET: 118 Moo 3 Srissunthorn, Phuket Tel: 076 324 333 AMARI CORAL BEACH: 2 Meun Ngern Rd Tel: 076 340 106/14, www.amari.com ANGSANA LAGUNA: 10 moo 4 Srisoonthorn Rd Tel: 076 324 101, www.lagunaphuket.com

Koh Chang AMARI EMERALD COVE RESORT KOH CHANG: 88/8 Moo 4 T Tel: 039 552 000, www.amari.com/ emeraldcove

NOVEMBER 2013 | 81

travel

DIRECTORY RESTAURANTS

AMERICANA

ITALIAN

BOURBON ST. RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR: Specializes in Louisiana Cajun and Creole dishes and other New Orleans favorites | 9/39-40, Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekkamai. Hours: 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. Tel: 02 381 6801/3, www.bourbonstbkk.com

ANTONIO’S: Antonio’s The Italian Experience is situated in a pleasant little house that gives an intimate but classy feel. Classy decor, well-trained staff, and good food | 26 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Phrom Phong BTS). Tel: 02 662 1001

ZUMA: Contemporary Japanese cuisine. Fresh ingredients in their traditional and fusion Japanese food are always a draw for lunch and dinner | 159/99 Rajdamri Rd, main entrance located beside St. Regis Hotel Bangkok (Rajdamri BTS). Tel: 02 252 4707

HENRY J. BEAN’S: Tex-Mex food, beer, and fun in all-American style, complemented by drinks from a professional mixologist | Amari Watergate Hotel, 847 Petchburi Rd. Hours: 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Tel: 02 653 9000

BISCOTTI: The first restaurant to have an open kitchen in Bangkok, Biscotti offers simple, home-style Italian food of great quality for lunch and dinner | Lobby Level, Four Seasons Bangkok, Rajdamri Road (Rajdamri BTS). Tel: 02 126 8866

KOREAN

CHINESE CHINA HOUSE: It has represented the pinnacle of Cantonese fine dining in Thailand since 1990 | Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Soi Oriental, Bangrak. Tel: 02 659 9000. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. HEICHINROU: Cantonese specialty restaurant serving an eclectic selection of new favorites and traditional delicacies | Amari Watergate Hotel, 847 Petchburi Rd. Tel: 02 653 9000. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. LIU: A gourmet Chinese restaurant offering authentic delicacies creatively presented for contemporary diners. | Conrad, 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. FRENCH AUBERGINE: Great for a romantic evening, serves an eclectic menu based on French and Italian cuisines | 71/1 Saladaeng Soi 1/1. Tel: 02 234 2226. Hours: 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. D’SENS: French haute cuisine with expansive views over Lumpini Park | Dusit Thani Bangkok 946 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 200 9000. Hours: 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. GERMAN BEI OTTO: Nice traditional German food and good beer | 1 Sukhumvit 20. Tel: 02 260 0869. Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., www.beiotto. com INDIAN INDUS: “Best Indian Restaurant” winner from multiple publications. A contemporary Kashmiri-inspired restaurant | Sukhumvit Soi 26 (Phrom Phong BTS). Tel: 02 258 4900. Hours: Lunch and dinner, www. indusbangkok.com MAYA: Maya Authentic Indian and Bar is a stylish Indian restaurant that serves authentic Indian cuisine from the northern region. The adjacent bar offers sky-high entertainment until 1 a.m. | 29th Floor, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, 1 Sukhumvit 22. Tel: 02 683 4777

Lookeast | DIRECTORY

ENOTECA ITALIANA: Quiet and romantic, it boasts attentive, professional service, good food, and an impressive wine list | 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27. Tel: 02 258 4386 GIUSTO: Italian restaurant and bar with clean, modern interior, elegant food, an art house cigar lounge and chef-owners who are larger than life |16 Soi Sukhumvit 23. Tel: 02 258 4321 PIZZERIA LIMONCELLO: Friendly, relaxed restaurant offering truly Italian thin-crust pizzas baked in a traditional wood-fired oven | Sukhumvit Soi 11. Tel: 02 651 0707. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to midnight (Tues-Sun) JAPANESE HONMONO SUSHI: Sushi joint on the expensive side, but worth it. Sushi and maki, such as the dragon avocado and the grilled Matsusaka beef, are recommended | 19 Thonglor Soi 23 (Thonglor BTS). Tel: 02 185 1447 AOI: A typical Japanese restaurant, Aoi offers everything from udon, sushi and teppan to its popular set menu | 4/F, Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd. (Phrom Pong BTS). Tel: 02 664 8590/2, www.aoi-bkk.com YAMAZATO: Famous throughout the world for its consistent quality, some of the key highlights of this Japanese restaurant include two teppanyaki tables and a sushi bar stocked with the seafood flown in from Tsukiji, Japan | The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd (Ploenchit BTS). Tel: 02 687 9000 SHINTARO: Get the finest quality slabs of sashimi, artfully hand-rolled sushi, succulent foie gras rolls, or tasty soba noodles here | Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Rajadamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS) Tel: 02 126 8866. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. TENSUI: Fish for sushi and sashimi freshly imported from the markets of Japan; everything served is less than 48 hours old | 33 Sukhumvit Soi 16. Te: 02-663-2281

ARIRANG: The restaurants always offers quality food and service | Sukhumvit Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 12. Tel: 02-653-0111 KONGJU: Very popular with families. Dishes are prepared authentically, in hearty servings | 2nd floor, Pathumwan Princess Hotel, MBK Center 444 Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 216 3700. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. MEDITERRANEAN EAT ME: A laidback restaurant with flair on the menu. Doubling as an art gallery and maintaining late opening hours that appeal to the party crowd, the 60-seater restaurant has long been known for its mellow vibe, jovial staff and Aussie-style café food.” | Convent Road (in Soi Pipat 2), Silom (Saladaeng BTS). Tel: 02 238 0931 SIROCCO: One of the most recommended restaurants in Bangkok. Great menu and equally great views of Bangkok and Chao Phraya River | 63rd Floor, lebua at State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd (Saphan Thaksin BTS). Tel: 02 624 9555. Hours: 6 p.m. to 1 a.m., www.thedomebkk.com SCARLETT: Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant is a meeting point for young executives who like to have fun and chill out. The place boasts a fine selection of wines along with tapas, imported cold cuts, and a large variety of cheeses. The menu is inspired by French chef Manuel Martinez, who has two Michelin stars and is owner of the Louis XIII Restaurant in Paris | 37th Floor, 188 Silom Rod, Bangrak. Tel: 02 238 1991 VERTIGO: For a romantic tête-à-tête, glamorous cocktail party, or fashion launch, there is no better venue than this. Fresh grilled seafood and premium steaks. Wide selection of cocktail and drinks | 61st floor, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200. Hours: 5 p.m. to midnight, www.banyantree.com SEAFOOD SEAFOOD MARKET: One of the oldest seafood restaurants in the city, popular with tourists | 89 Sukhumvit Soi 24. Tel: 02 261 2071. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to midnight SPANISH RIOJA: Known for imported fresh ingredients from Spain. Specializing in northern Spanish cuisine | Ploenchit Rd (Chidlom BTS). Tel: 02 251 5761/2. Hours: 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.

TAPAS CAFÉ: The first authentic Spanish tapas bar in Bangkok. Not a Spanish “theme bar” but an innovative tapas bar serving both traditional and modern tapas dishes | 1/25 Sukhumvit 11. Tel: 02 651 947. Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight, www.tapasiarestaurants.com STEAKHOUSES ARTUR’S: From the man behind many of Bangkok’s finest steakhouses comes his most personal project; great martinis and steaks at lower-than-average prices | 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 658 6288. Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. MADISON: Bangkok’s best charcoal grilled steaks in this high-end steakhouse with the quality and creativity expected from the Four Seasons | G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Rajdamri Rd (Rajdamri BTS). Tel: 02 250 1000 NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE: New York– caliber steakhouse, with the food, service, and refinement expected from its namesake city | JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok | 4 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 2. Tel: 02 656 7700 PRIME: Watch your steak caramelize in the wood-fired oven or take in the fantastic Chao Praya River view as the sun goes down | Millennium Hilton Bangkok Hotel 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000. Hours: 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. THAI BAAN KHANITHA & GALLERY: Winner of more than 10 “Bangkok’s Best Thai Restaurant,” awards this tea room serves high-quality authentic Thai food in a traditional atmosphere | 36/1 Sukhumvit 23. Tel: 02 258 4128. Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11 p.m., www.baankanitha.com BLUE ELEPHANT: Another great Thai restaurant whose menu includes classics and innovations for the future. Old World ambience enhances the dining pleasure | 233 South Sathorn Rd (Surasak BTS). Tel: 02 673 9353. Hours: 6:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., www. blueelephant.com CABBAGES AND CONDOMS: Established in part to support the activities of PDA with several locations around Thailand, this restaurant offers a pleasant dining experience | 6 Soi 12, Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 229 4611 Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., www. cabbagesandcondoms.co.th

BO.LAN: By drawing on the abundance of natural resources and incorporating the geographical diversity that Thailand offers, the restaurant actively strives to serve Thai food at its very best, taking full advantage of the fresh and seasonal produce available | 42 Soi Pichai Ronnarong Songkram Sukhumvit 26 (Phrom Phong BTS). Tel: 02 260 2962 NAHM: Awarded the prestigious “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” (Top 32) and “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” (Top 3), Nahm is a place both for serious gourmets and for those who desire to learn more about authentic Thai cuisine | 27 Sathorn Rd | Metropolitan by COMO Hotel, Bangkok. Tel: 02 625 3388 LONG TABLE: This restaurant is famous for both its food and for its stunning 25th-floor view and trend-setting interior featuring a 25-meter-long table and contemporary video art | 48 Column Tower, Sukhumvit 16 (Asok BTS). Tel: 02 302 2557 BARS APOTEKA: There are now two Apotekas in Bangkok. The first is a unique, fivechambered bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11 that was designed in to evoke the essence of an Old World apothecary shop from the turn of the 19th century. A new branch has opened in Thonglor | 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS). Tel: 083 720 5586 CLOUDS: Clouds is praised by many for its shisha and great cocktail menu | 251/1 Seenspace Center, Sukhumvit 55 Rd (Thonglor BTS). Tel: 02 185 2365 SPEAKEASY: The atmosphere merges an internationally inspired food-and-drink concept with Asian influences. Encompassing the entire 24th and 25th floors and comprising a number of different types of watering holes: Long Bar, Terrace Bar, The Blind Pig cigar lounge, a rooftop bar, The Lawn, as well as a boardroom and three private rooms (“It’s Personal”, “Private Affair,” and “Never Tell”) | 24th & 25th floors, 55/565 Hotel Muse, Soi Langsuan (Chitlom BTS). Tel: 02 630 4000 CLUBS CONCEPT CM2: Long-running favorite in the Siam Square area, and dubbed by many as a top nightspot. | Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 (Siam Square BTS). Tel: 02 209 8888. Hours daily: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.

TAPAS: One of Bangkok’s oldest clubs, it has lasted for a reason. Multi-story club with different DJs playing on each floor; be sure to check out the rooftop area | 114/17-18 Silom Soi 4 (Saladaeng BTS). Tel: 02 632 7883 Hours: 8 p.m. to 1 a.m., www.tapasroom.net Q BAR: Once notorious for crowds but has started to turn around its image and continues to bring in top-flight DJs and afterparties | Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS). Tel: 02 252 3274 Hours: 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily, www.qbarbangkok.com LEVELS: Peripherally attached to Aloft Hotel, this high-end club is accessible by a separate set of elevators that lead to the sixth floor and an enormous, high-ceilinged room whose centerpiece is a circular, glowing bar with a jazzy LED chandelier overhead. There are house-heavy DJs every night, with the occasional visiting big deal international act | 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS). Tel: 082 308 3246 LIVE JAZZ BAMBOO BAR: Home to some of the more refined jazz music in Bangkok | Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave 02 659 9000 Hours: Mon-Fri, 11 p.m. to 1 a.m., Sat-Sun, 11 p.m. to 2 a.m., www.dininginthailand.com FAT GUTZ: Innovative cocktails, chic decor, and surprisingly good fish and chips | 264 Thonglor Soi 12 Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor BTS). Tel: 02 714 9832 Live music 9 p.m. to midnight, www.fatgutz.com IRON FAIRIES: Antique factory with live metal-crafting, a wine bar and a restaurant | 394 Thonglor Rd Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor BTS). Tel: 084 425 8080, www.theironfairies. com LOUNGES NEST: Wonderful little rooftop bar on the top of the @ Le Fenix Hotel. Situated in the midst of Suk 11, yet feels intimate and relaxed | 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS). Tel: 02 654 6935, www.thenestbangkok.com THREE SIXTY: One of the more stunning views Bangkok has to offer high up on the 32nd floor of the Millennium Hilton Hotel with panoramic views of the Chao Praya River | 123 Charoennakorn Rd Klongsan (Free shuttle from Saphan Taksin BTS). Hours: 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily

CELADON: A bit pricey, but the menu offers great selection that is inventive without being ridiculous | The Sukhothai Hotel, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888, www. sukhothai.com

MIXX: Discotheque Bangkok All night dance lounge featuring house and hip hop rooms | 973 President Tower, Room B06-B10 in the basement of the Intercontinental Hotel (Chitlom BTS). Hours: 10 p.m. to late

ABOVE ELEVEN: Above Eleven is a great place to start a night of carousing and partying on Sukhumvit 11. Enjoyable eating experience and cool atmosphere | 33/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit 38/3, Soi 11(Nana BTS). Tel: 02 207 9300

MAHANAGA: High-end, relaxed al fresco experience. Serves high0quality classic Thai dishes with a subtle fusion twist | 2 Sukhumvit Soi 29. Tel: 02 662 3060. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.

SPASSO: An Italian restaurant by day; nightclub with live band at night. A favorite of older expats, tourists, and others who like a more mature night out | Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajdamri Rd (Chitlom BTS). Tel: 02 254 1234. Hours: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.

WHISGARS: Whisgars presents the largest collection of single-cask whiskies in Asia, along with premium hand-rolled cigars of exceptional quality, all amidst refreshingly modern surroundings | 16 Sukhumvit 23, Bangkok (Sukhumvit MRT). Tel: 02 664 4252 NOVEMBER 2013 | 83

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