Lookeast September 2014 by Lookeast Magazine

LIFESTYLE

HOTELS

DINING

NIGHTLIFE

SHOPPING

EVENTS

PERSONALITIES

ART

CULTURE

SPAS

Fashion

EST. 1971

SEPTEMBER ISSN 0857-1139

TRAVEL

THE insider ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2014

A Round-Up of the Kingdom’s Best

SATHORN

Tokyo CITY OF CONTRASTS

SEPTEMBER 2014 VOL.43 NO.9

Mini Guide

ASEAN:

Socio-Cultural Community and the AEC

Annual

WORLD GOURMET FESTIVAL www.lookeastmagazine.com

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• 2 Most Prestige Waterfront Residences of Asia designed to be among the world's best residential properties with the Bangkok skyline rising above the river. An Icon of the futuristic living quality • 2 Unrivalled Glamorous Retail & Entertainment Complexes - where the best of world-class brands meet the best of Thailand's exquisite products: 500 shops and 100 of the finest restaurants from around the world • State-of-the-Art, World-Class Auditorium, ready to serve ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) Seminars, International Trade Exhibitions and cultural performances • The Museum of Treasures, featuring Thailand's Heritage and Wisdom

Ready to enchant the world in 2017

WHAT'S INSIDE SEPTEMBER

SEPTEMBER 2014 CALENDAR 12 30 65 74 76

What’s On Hotel Deals Spa Deals Dining Specials Bar Specials

TRAVEL

18 Culture: ASEAN, One Vision, One Identity, One Community 23 Business Insights: Understanding the AEC 24 Sightseeing in Bangkok 28 Checking In: The Racha, Phuket 34 Travel News 36 My Favorite Place: The Thai Polo Club, by Caroline Link 38 Feature: Tokyo, City of Contrasts

LIFESTYLE

42 Cover story: ● The Kingdom’s Best: A Round-Up ● Thai Food: Expanding Horizons ● Bangkok River Nights ● I Dare You: Adrenaline-Filled Fun in Thailand ● Expat Secrets: We Learned the Hard Way, So You Don’t Have To 60 Mini Guide: Sathorn Road 64 The Hedonist: The Secret to Longevity Genes, by Dr. Konstantinos Papadopoulos

Lookeast | WHAT'S INSIDE

28 WINE&DINE

68 Feature: Getting into the Spirit(s) of ASEAN 70 News: 15th Annual World Gourmet Festival in Bangkok Restaurants: 72 Harrod’s The Plantation Rooms 73 Dressed Empire Tower 77 Interview: Mixologist Joseph Boroski in an Interview with Lookeast 78 The Oenophile: Keep the Wine Flowing

JUly 2014 | 7

travel

EDITORIAL EDITOR'S NOTE

WHAT MAKES YOU A LOCAL?

aybe it was when we knew, without hesitation, that we had a preference for Meiji, Dutch Mill, or Foremost milk. Or when we finally started looking right—instead of looking left—when crossing the street. When we left aside the joy of cooking at home and started buying ready-made food on our way back from work (and that made us equally happy). Or when we got the Rabbit card because we were using the BTS Skytrain way too often. The more I found myself doing small things like these, the more I realized I was suddenly embracing “localness.” At the beginning of last month, we sat with our best writers to share lunch at Indus and brainstormed on all those tiny bits of information that only we would know about, because we’ve been in Thailand long enough: how to avoid scams, where to enjoy Thai food—be it on the street or at an award-winning restaurant— and which are the real must-see places we wouldn’t want our friends to miss when they come visit. The result of that lunch is in your hands now. As one of our writers aptly said, “We learned the hard way, so

you don’t have to.” In this Insider issue are the tips that you want to know about being in Thailand. At a regional level, this year we have covered almost every ASEAN country with a feature article. In this issue of Lookeast we are bringing you more content on this association that has brought Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Vietnam, and Thailand together to accelerate economic growth, social progress, cultural development, and more. All this because we wanted to give you a heads-up in preparation for a milestone that might change the face of the region we now know, starting 2015: the creation of the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC). Please keep feeding our Reader’s Talk: that section is yours. Send us your photos or stories of your travels in Thailand and win fun prizes every month. And now, please fasten your seat belts, and get ready to take off with one of Lookeast’s most exciting issues of this year!

Enjoy the ride!

Shutters

shish Do tock + Pu

nhongsa

Anita Zaror Editor-in-Chief

Lookeast | EDITORIAL

FRONT COVER Old man inside his Thai house

Photo by Alisa Hubert Apparel by Burberry

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Chris Mayya After 12 years in a monastery in California, Chris decided to return to the ASEAN region, where he used to work as a business consultant. He writes for magazines and blogs about alternative health, Buddhism, and culture. Follow him on www.facebook.com/chris.mayya Dave Stamboulis A Greek-American travel writer and professional photographer based in Bangkok. His photos are represented by Getty Images and Alamy, and he is a writer for Fodor’s guidebook to Thailand and Laos, as well as for USA Today’s “Bangkok Expert” travel website. Duncan Forgan Duncan has spent the past five years living and working in Vietnam, Singapore, and Thailand. He was a features writer for the national newspapers in his native Scotland, and an editor of various travel guides in the Middle East. He writes and broadcasts for outlets worldwide on Asian travel, culture, and cuisine. www.duncankarol.com Harold Stephens The author of 32 books and thousands of newspaper and magazine stories, Harold Stephens began writing travel and adventure stories for Lookeast in 1974. He worked with the Bangkok Post for 14 years and is a travel correspondent for Thai Airways. Dr. Konstantinos Papadopoulos A polyglot, published author, and specialist in endocrinology, metabolism, and diabetes, Dr. Kostas is the Chief of Medical Research & Development at THAI StemLife. He is fascinated by how hormones, metabolism, genetics, nutrition, fitness, and the mind can transform health. Richard Mcleish Richard is a Bangkok-based freelance lifestyle writer from Melbourne. While he was on a lifelong mission to learn more about the world, the City of Angels intervened six years ago and has held him captive ever since. When not sniffing out new bars, bands, and beaches, he is writing about them for glossies, broadsheets, and zines.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS: ● Caroline Link (My Favorite Place) ● Nadia Willan (restaurants, travel) ● Thomas Sturrock (food and drinks) ● Yongmin Shon (travel)

Lookeast | EDITORIAL

Publisher Sid Sehgal Group Publishing Director Asha Narula Sehgal Editor-in-Chief Anita Zaror Editorial Assistant Coco Lavender Editorial Consultant Melanie Blake Art Director Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Photographer Alisa Hubert Production Director Apichart Boontid Marketing Executive Ankita Malhotra PR Consultant Earth Saisawang Executive Assistant to Chairman Acharin Suthisawad Executive Assistant to CEO Panitkan Apiratanapimonchai

Chairman Dato Satish Sehgal President Ravi Sehgal Executive Director Gaurav Sehgal

EST. 1971

travel

is published monthly by: Advertising & Media Consultants Co., Ltd. Richmond Office Building 18th floor 75/65 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Klong Toey, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Tel: + 66 2 204 2982 Fax: + 66 2 204 2984 Email: info@lookeastmagazine.com Web: www.lookeastmagazine.com Views and opinions expressed by individual writers and contributors in the articles herein, do not necessarily reflect those of Lookeast magazine or of Advertising Media Consultants Co., Ltd. All prices are correct at the time of going to press, but are subject to change. Reproduction in whole or part without written consent from Lookeast is strictly forbidden.

EDITORIAL READER’S TALK

We Have a Winner!

Sabai Jai Gai Yang's famous Isaan grilled chicken, Bangkok

Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya

Evan Barke

Congratulations to Khun Evan Barke, who sent us photos of his travels through Thailand and won two tickets for the Issaya Recipes Class at chef Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Cooking Studio (●www.issayastudio.com) worth THB 4,000++!

Engage in the conversation and you might be the winner of fun prizes we give away every month. WAYS TO JOIN THE READER’S TALK:

Send our editor your comments on the articles you’ve read; let her know what you’d like to read in the future; give an opinion about a topic treated in one of our articles; tell us how great you think Lookeast is, or how you think we can improve in less than 200 words. Just email us at editor@lookeastmagazine.com before the 15th of each month, and write “Letter to the editor” in the subject line of the message.

Lookeast | READER’S TALK

Send us smoke signals. OK, this might not work, but you can still do any of the above! Wat Thammikarat, Ayutthaya

Lookeast reserves the right to select letters for publication and to edit for grammar, style, and length in those published, while making efforts to retain the context of the author’s message.

Evan Barke

Send us photos from your travels through Thailand. Just email us a high-resolution image with no logos or text on it to editor@ lookeastmagazine.com, before the 15th of each month. Write “Travel photo contest” as the subject line and please explain what the photo is about or where it was taken.

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*Discount not applicable for special events, any other promotional or discounted activity

WHAT'S ON SEPTEMBER

What: Two top chefs at The Okura Prestige Bangkok are merging their culinary styles and skills to present an exclusive menu that combines the contrasting flavors produced by kitchens in Japan and in the West. The “Living Kitchen” menu starts with amuse-bouche created by chef Hagiwara and chef Henry. Chefs take turns to serve their own specialty dishes, such as Japanese seafood impressions and grilled alfonsino, duck foie gras, and progression of wagyu MB 9. All this and more, followed by a sweet ending from their pastry chef. When: September 5–6 from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Where: Elements restaurant, The Okura Prestige Bangkok How much: THB 3,800 net per person (includes amuse-bouche, six-course menu, and petite fours) More info: 02 687 9000; fb@okurabangkok.com

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Culinary Worlds Combine at The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Bangkok’s Broadway Babe is in Town

All You Can Eat at The St. Regis Bangkok

What: Eat all you can with these promotions: mussels and barbeque ribs at THB 990 net per person; crab at THB 1,490+ net per person; beverage package at THB 500 net (freeflow beer and house wines); free-flow mussels and French fries on Wednesdays; free-flow barbeque ribs, pumpkin gratin, and grilled vegetables on Thursdays; free-flow crab, rice, and som tam on Fridays. When: Ongoing Where: Viu, The St. Regis Bangkok How much: See above More info: 02 207 7777; www.stregisbangkok.com

Joe & Kong at Hard Rock Café Bangkok

What: Fans of former Nuvo heart-throbs Joe and Kong will have a chance to get up close and personal with the duo, when they perform at the Hard Rock Café Bangkok. Jirayuth “Joe” Wattanasin and Saharat “Kong” Sangkapreecha share a love of music and have been performing together since their secondary school days, reaching the height of their fame locally in the 1990s with the band Nuvo. Now regarded as members of Thailand’s pantheon of pop/rock idols, they have managed to remain in the public eye despite the break-up of Nuvo. Kong is currently one of the judges on local TV talent show The Voice, while Joe is on the panel of judges for the Thailand's Got Talent series. When: September 12 at 9:30 p.m. Where: Siam Square How much: THB 3,000 for a table for two; THB 5,200–6,000 for a table for four More info: 02 658 4090

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

Issaya Cooking Studio

What: Don't miss Burlesque at Betty’s, with Bangkok’s Broadway Babe, Kristen Evelyn Rossi, every Wednesday. Popup cabaret style performances throughout dinner, and if you are still around until the last set, you may just get a little extra with your dessert! When: Every Wednesday Where: Bangkok Betty, Sukhumvit 22 How much: Free; table booking suggested More info: 02 633 4223

Dinner Pairing with the Bounty of New Zealand and Revolutionary Craft Beer

What: Each course of this rugged food adventure—prepared by internationally acclaimed Australian chef, Ben McRae— will spotlight the natural bounty of New Zealand, such as wild venison loin from the Raukumara gorge, King Ora cured salmon from the cleanest waters in the world, and never-before imported bush plants like piko piko, horopito, kawakawa, and kumara. Each course will be paired with rare beer selections handpicked by Beervana from its global portfolio of craft beers. Seating is limited to 18 people. When: September 25 from 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Where: Issaya Cooking Studio How much: TBD More info: 02 160 5636; booking@ issayastudio.com

WHAT'S ON SEPTEMBER

First-Ever Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge in Thailand

EVENT REVIEW Jazz Up in Hua Hin: A Festival to Remember

Jazz Up in Hua Hin

What: Internationally-acclaimed Japanese eatery IPPUDO brought the ultimate ramen experience to Thailand with the opening of its first outlet at luxury shopping center, Central Embassy. With over 80 stores in Japan, and about 40 international stores in places such as New York, Sydney, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taipei, Seoul, Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Beijing, and Chengdu, IPPUDO (pronounced ih-PU-doh) has gained a worldwide following with customers patiently queuing for a taste of what many have dubbed “cosmos in a bowl”: a signature rich and flavorful tonkotsu (pork-based) broth combined with delicate hand-pulled noodles made from a secret recipe. When: Ongoing (open since August 22) Where: IPPUDO, 3rd floor Central Embassy How much: Ramen starts at THB 200 More info: www.ippudo.co.th

by Maia Kara

For those who have been in Thailand for a while and follow the music events’ scene, Hua Hin Jazz Festival is a well-known annual event. However, this year it held more than a few surprises for returning fans, and for those attending for the first time. The stage set up was extended up to the shoreline, with state-of-the-art sound systems to create a fantastic acoustic feel for everyone who attended. Areas for seating were plenty, from VIP seats that allowed a closer view of the stage, to free seating on the grass around the area. Food stalls, sponsored by Hua Hin’s most renowned hotels and restaurants, offered a large variety of delicious treats for visitors to fuel up, from Thai classics and German sausage with sauerkraut, to healthy vegetarian salads. The evening’s line up was impressive, and included young performers and legendary jazz heavyweights. Among many performers, the audience had the delight of listening to Steve Canon, the famous American trumpeter; “Infinity,” Thailand’s very own jazzfusion band; The Travelers, indie-jazz style band from Japan (the crowd’s favorite performer of the night), and “Soul After Six,” whose alternative legacy conforms to pop, rock, and jazz. The show lasted till well after midnight, and left you longing for more.

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

Novotel Bangkok Bangna

IPPUDO

IPPUDO Ramen Comes to Central Embassy

What: The Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge was inaugurated by Dilmah in 2007, and it has been staged in over 12 countries including Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore, Malaysia, Australia, New Zealand, Saudi Arabia, Chile, and The Netherlands. This year the first-ever Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge will take place in Thailand. The panel of judges will be headed by Dilhan Fernando, the younger son of Dilmah founder, Merrill Fernando. When: September 30 and October 1 Where: Sofitel Sukhumvit Bangkok How much: TBA More info: 02 348 2449

All You Can Eat Dim Sum

What: Shui Xin, the Chinese restaurant at Novotel Bangkok Bangna, is featuring an “All You Can Eat Dim Sum” lunch, with more than 30 items available including traditional steamed and fried dumplings, together with a choice of soups, fried rice, noodles, and dessert. Their Dim Sum chef particularly recommends the barbecue pork buns, the steamed crab with curry sauce, bamboo pith with minced shrimp, black mushroom with clams, century eggs with minced shrimps, and their popular mango pudding for a sweet ending. When: Ongoing Where: Shui Xin, Novotel Bangkok Bangna How much: THB 580 per person including Chinese tea More info: 02 366 0505 ext. 1450 and 1451

t the racha, luxury doesn’t come at a price.

At The Racha, guests rest easy knowing that the resort embraces the highest standards of eco-responsible tourism. The resort is also a recognized leader* in its field. Some of the resort’s initiatives - All the buildings are built in harmony to the island’s natural topography; no land was cut or filled in the process. For every coconut tree that was felled in all pools at the racha are ozone-treated. not only is it gentler on your skin, it’s also kinder to the environment.

building the resort, two were planted in its place. Instead of a concrete pier, The Racha utilizes an environmentally sound floating pontoon to preserve underwater ecology. Priceless practices. To sustain the island’s natural beauty for years to come. www.theracha.com

X O

P R I VAT E

Enjoy your 3rd night free with every 2 paid nights (Pool Villa Free Nights Hot Deals) for selected pool villas**. For stays until 31st October 2014 at www.theracha.com.

A menber of Small Luxury Hotels of the World

85 luxurious villas • 3 ozonated pools (excluding private ones) • 3 signature dining establishments & bar

world-acclaimed anumba spa • club del mar for chilling • personalized sea and land experiences • to-die-for-views complimentary tel: 66 76 355 455 fax: 66 76 355 637 email: reservation@theracha.com www.theracha.com

*as awarded by the Thai Ministry of Natural Resource & Environment and the Ministry of Energy 2014

** terms & conditions apply

New Wedding Galleria at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok

What: Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok announced the opening of the hotel’s new Wedding Galleria, a one-stop wedding shop offering all that’s needed for that big day, from invitation ideas to gowns, photography, flowers, and much more. A personalized space reserved for just one couple at a time, the Wedding Galleria is the place to consult a team of experienced Four Seasons wedding and banquet experts who will be able to share suggestions for décor, menus, gifts, etc. Taking pride of place in the show windows are beautiful wedding cake designs from chef Stéphane Calvet and the pastry team. When: Daily from 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Guests can make an appointment for a personal consultation with an expert wedding specialist. Where: Four Seasons Bangkok How much: Varies More info: 02 250 1000

Family Flavor at Dusit Thani Hua Hin

What: Let your little ones unleash their culinary creativity and find out if there is a future king or queen of the kitchen! Dusit Thani Hua Hin has cooked up a tasty two-night Junior Super Chef package, where great food and family fun are the main ingredients. Your child will enjoy a hands-on 60-minute cooking class, learning basic baking techniques under the watchful guidance of one of the hotel’s own master chefs. After tasting their Super Chef’s creations, everyone gets to enjoy the delectable Dusit buffet dinner. When: From now until December 15 Where: Dusit Thani Hua Hin How much: THB 17,000++ per package More info: 032 520 009

Eat Well and Be Happy

What: Asiatique The Riverfront would like to invite everyone to “eat well and be happy,” while celebrating the Jia Chai Vegetarian Festival. Listen to dharma teachings given by venerable monk Talputto; delve into the past to learn the story of the origins of the vegetarian festival with professor Visit Taechakasem; pay homage to the nine sacred deities; fill up and gain good fortune with auspicious noodles from a giant wok and over 50 high quality and popular vegetarian restaurants carefully selected from all over Bangkok; and receive special souvenirs that grant good luck every day. When: September 23 to October 2 Where: Warehouses 4 and 5, Asiatique How much: Varies More info: www.facebook.com/Asiatique. Thailand

K Village Street Market

What: Market lovers will enjoy this street market, that takes place the third weekend of every month. Shop for clothing, handbags, shoes, accessories, products for children, gifts, gadgets, food, and more. When: Friday 19 from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Saturday 20 from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Where: K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 How much: Varies More info: www.kvillagebangkok.com

What: Get ahead with year-end shopping at the ThaiCraft Fair! Add value to your gifts by directly supporting those who carry on Thailand’s heritage of quality craft, traditional and modern. Choose fair trade products and you’ll be supporting tens of artisans nationwide while having fun buying accessories, textiles, home decor, baskets, cosmetics, toys, and much more. When: September 20, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Where: Jasmine City Building, basement floor, Sukhumvit Rd, at the entrance of Soi 23, BTS Asok station exit 3, MRT Sukhumvit station exit 2 How much: Free entrance More info: www.thaicraft.org

Lookeast | WHAT'S ON

ThaiCraft Fair

Asiatique The Riverfront

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok

WHAT'S ON SEPTEMBER

TRAVEL CULTURE

ONE VISION, ONE IDENTITY, ONE COMMUNITY

by Chris Mayya

Lookeast | TRAVEL

“

I would love to travel to many countries and learn about their people and cultures.” Thus a teenager in Myanmar once expressed to me his aspiration. Although many young people I meet in Asia love to inquire about the countries I have traveled to, what intrigued me most was this teenager’s interest to “learn about people and cultures.” An ASEAN Socio-Cultural Community is one of the goals of the ASEAN Community vision. The establishment of the community is expected to increase tourism and business travel within ASEAN nations in the next few years, resulting in a greater socio-cultural exchange. But understanding the sociocultural factors of any country requires a deeper insight than what is visible on the surface. Just as it is not possible to accurately understand American culture based solely on how Hollywood represents it, so the very soul of cultural and social identity of any nation lies not so much in its folktales, festivals, and traditions, but in the seeming trivialities of everyday life. This is why travel and work in other countries enrich one’s understanding of other cultures and lead to an appreciation of one’s own. Here are some unique everyday peculiarities I have observed that have given me insight into the socio-cultural fabric of the ASEAN communities of today:

Dave Stamboulis

Each of the ASEAN member countries has its own unique identity, such as a love of tea, which permeates simple cross-cultural manifestations. A greater exchange on several fronts is expected to take place with the ASEAN Socio-Cultural Community.

TRAVEL CULTURE

“Mai Pen Rai” (Thailand)

Dave Stamboulis

It may seem like just another phrase, but this simple expression represents the Thai people’s attitude towards life. “Mai pen rai” is a phrase that can be used in multiple situations to express any of these sentiments: “Never mind,” “It’s OK,” “Don’t worry,” “You are welcome,” “Not a big deal,” etc. In most social situations Asians are, as a rule, less confrontational than their Western counterparts. Preserving harmony takes priority over expressing oneself or getting to the truth. So “mai pen rai” may be at times an attempted deflection from the course of discussion, especially if it involves a difference of opinion. However, do not hastily jump to that conclusion. At a deeper and more sincere level, a “mai pen rai” attitude to life is the goal of all practicing Buddhists. In all challenging and complex situations, it is the philosophy that helps them to develop greater resilience to life’s conditions and to take things with equanimity. It’s a “letting go” process. Personally, I like to interpret mai pen rai as “Take it easy” or “Just chill!” Try it— especially when you are stressed out.

When in Laos, Do as the Laotians Do (Laos)

Dave Stamboulis

While Westerners may shy away from bright and colorful clothes, these are quite common in many parts of Asia. The women in Laos don the customary “sinh” (silk dress), and it is common also to see men with a colorful band or strap tied to their waist.

Lookeast | TRAVEL

What’s In a Cup of Tea? (Malaysia)

A good friend of mine in Malaysia loves to take me out for a late night supper at some local food court whenever I visit him. Included in the supper could be Malay– Indian or Chinese tea. It is common in Malaysia, and in other parts of ASEAN, to see locals socializing with friends and family over a cup of tea, during the day and sometimes at night. Asians, in general, tend to consider their family and their circle of close friends as their “insurance” in difficult situations of life. So instead of waiting until Thanksgiving or Christmas to pay their “premiums,” they seek more frequent means of keeping in touch. Even before the advent of Starbucks, it was common in parts of Asia to socialize over a cup of tea. And now with the addition of coffee as a fashionable beverage to sip while connecting with companions—yes, Starbucks does deserve some credit for this innovation—more and more ASEANs are appreciating this facet of their culture.

TRAVEL CULTURE

Going Beyond Rice and Noodles (Philippines)

Rice and noodles form the staple of the ASEAN diet. Yet what is baffling to the tourist is the variety, shapes, and colors these rice and noodle dishes take in different parts of ASEAN. The Philippines are a hub in Asia when it comes to food. The local cuisine in the Philippines has both Asian and Western origins. It is quite common to see Spanish empanadas alongside local fare.

Singapore is a melting pot of languages, as its local English dialect borrows words from various tongues. Here’s a quick glance at some commonly used Singlish words: ● “Ang moh” is a Hokkien word that means “foreigner” (similar to “farang” in Thailand) ● “Boleh” is a Malay word that means “can” or “possible” ● “Lah” or “Leh” are adaptions from Malay or Hokkien words and are now considered native Singlish; these words have no specific meaning but are commonly added at the end of many phrases ● “Sotong” is a Malay word signifying “forgetful” or spineless, like the squid ● “Ta Pau” derives from a Cantonese word that means “take away” (referring to food) Check out Singlishdictionary.com and the Wikipedia Singlish dictionary if you are traveling for the first time to Singapore, lest you inadvertently offend someone by inquiring, “Do you speak English?”

Dave Stamboulis

Do You Speak English? (Singapore)

Interesting to Explore, Sensitive to Tread On

Religion is an integral part of the ASEAN countries that draws many Westerners to explore practices or to visit monuments. Buddhism and Islam (the major religions in the ASEAN nations) have adapted certain uniquely ASEAN rituals and practices. I am always struck how in countries like Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Myanmar nearly everyone—even small children—expresses what seems to be an instinctive respect for those in monastic robes. On the other hand, government efforts to curtail the influence of religion are also prevalent, particularly in countries where some form of military rule exists. But where democracy prevails, such as in the Philippines, the church plays a major role in politics. In most ASEAN nations, the practice of religion and politics does not meet Western standards of democratic freedom. But historically these have been significant cultural factors, at times nurturing but also at times stifling individual expression. Travelers are cautioned that flippant references to religious customs or opinionated comparisons between Western and ASEAN democratic models are considered rude and intrusive. The proverbial wisdom of avoiding these two subjects in casual conversation seems to be universal!

Preserving ASEAN Socio-Cultural Identity

Brunei Tourism

Overall, ASEAN culture is quite multi-faceted, and each country has its unique identity. But with the increasing effect of mass global culture, preserving local socio-cultural identity has become a priority for ASEAN leaders. Thus the main goals of ASEAN Socio-Cultural Community are “to forge a common identity” and “to nurture human, cultural and natural resources for sustained development in a harmonious and people-oriented ASEAN.” Regardless of the outward changes brought about with interspersing with Western culture, the core of ASEAN member countries’ culture has remained untainted over the years. Phrases such as “mai pen rai” and “lah” and other linguistic idiosyncrasies, socializing over tea or supper at the food court, the particularities of religious practice—all are strands in the region’s socio-cultural fabric. By observing the seemingly mundane and trivial during your visit to the ASEAN region, you can get a profound glimpse into its people and culture. More information: www.asean.org

Lookeast | TRAVEL

TRAVEL BUSINESS INSIGHTS

Understanding the AEC

he ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) is an initiative by ASEAN leaders to bring about economic integration and free trade among its member nations. It is comparable in the West to the European Economic Community (EEC) and the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). ASEAN comprises 10 member countries: Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. All the governments of these member countries have made public their commitment to developing a vision for the ASEAN Community by 2015. AEC is one of the three pillars for establishing and developing an ASEAN Community, the other two being the ASEAN Socio-Cultural Community (ASCC) and the ASEAN Political-Security Community (APSC). As with the AEC, the main objectives of these pillars are to transform ASEAN into a region with free movement of goods, services, investment, skilled labor, and freer flow of capital.

Selected Key ASEAN Economic Indicators

Facts About and Benefits for ASEAN Members

● With a land area of 4.4 million square kilometers and a population of more than 625 million, the ASEAN Community will have better resources and scale efficiencies to be competitive at a global level. ● The AEC has the potential to improve regional cooperation within ASEAN. ● Many businesses have been gearing up for the past few years to meet the challenge and opportunities of the AEC. ● This aim of a common market shall facilitate smoother movement of businesspersons, skilled labor, and talent within ASEAN. The goal is that investors from these countries will face fewer regulatory measures, and qualified/skilled workers will have greater mobility and fewer restrictions on working in any of the ASEAN countries. ● The tourism sector and the healthcare industry anticipate plenty of opportunities from the AEC. ● The initiative has the potential to overcome the current inequitable economic development among the ASEAN nations. ● It could ultimately lead toward adopting English as the common language for business communication across ASEAN.

What Will 2015 Bring About?

How It All Started

● ASEAN leaders met in Kuala Lumpur in 1997 to form the Vision 2020 Blueprint. ● At the 12th ASEAN Summit in 2007, with the world economy becoming more competitive, the leaders realized the importance of accelerating the formation of ASEAN Community. ● In early August 2014, the leaders met at Nay Pyi Taw in Myanmar to reiterate their commitment to accelerating the implementation of an ASEAN Community vision for 2015, particularly for the AEC. ● The AEC is now on the fourth and final phase of implementation.

Characteristics of the AEC

As envisioned at the ASEAN Summit in 1997, the following are the key characteristics: ● A single market and production base ● A highly competitive economic region ● A region of equitable economic development ● A region fully integrated into the global economy These characteristics are considered to be inter-related and mutually reinforcing.

The year 2015 is when specific changes are due to be implemented across ASEAN as outlined in the AEC blueprint “Strategic Schedule.” It includes the elimination of certain tariffs and import duties, leading to fewer restrictions for trade and investments. However, there is widespread speculation that many AEC measures are too ambitious and far-sighted for members to see any tangible changes in key areas, such as “facilitating free labor movement, freer movement of capital, and the elimination of Non-Tariff Barriers (NTBs).” Much will depend on how the local governments and markets in each of the member countries follow through and overcome local political opposition that values immediate national goals over longterm regional goals. Nevertheless, 2015 will be a landmark year to bring home to each member country the weight of its commitment to the AEC and to kick-start time-bound measures toward integration into the regional economy. september 2014 | 23

TEMPLE OF THE RECLINING BUDDHA

Copy right of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)

TRAVEL SIGHTSEEING

TEMPLE OF DAWN

SIGHTSEEING IN BANGKOK Not many days in town? Make sure to leave some time to visit these must-see attractions. Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho)

(●2 Sanamchai Road, Grand Palace Subdistrict, Bangkok; 02 226 0335; www.watpho.com) The Temple of the Reclining Buddha, or Wat Pho, is undoubtedly one of the largest and oldest temples in Bangkok. It is mostly famous for the gigantic statue of a reclining Buddha that measures around 45 meters in length, and has been the main attraction in Bangkok for many years. The galleries are also worth a visit as they house images of the Buddha from the ruins of the historic capitals, Sukhothai and Ayuthaya. Wat Pho is also known for the traditional Thai massage school where customers can both enjoy massages and take courses.

LOOKEAST | TRAVEL

Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun)

(●158 Wang Doem Road, Wat Arun, Bangkok (take the boat to Pier Tha Tien and then take the ferry to cross the river; 02 891 2978; www.watarun.org) Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn, is best known for the stunning tower that sends out beams of light to brighten up Bangkok’s nightscape. The monumental tower is 70 meters in height, and it features pieces of colored glass and broken Chinese porcelain. Wat Arun is somewhat like the Eiﬀel Tower of Thailand: it glows brightly at night, and travelers can enjoy its magniﬁcent sight while cruising on a boat along the Chao Phraya River. Because of its vibrancy and outstanding architecture, it is voted as the most popular sight for photography.

The Grand Palace

(●Na Phra Lan Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok; 02 623 5500; www.palaces. thai.net) Located near Wat Pho, the Grand Palace is considered one of the most signiﬁcant places in Thailand. The monument houses much of Thailand’s history. The Grand Palace is exceptionally beautiful at night, as it glows with stunning golden lights. The sight’s major attraction is the magniﬁcent Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Grand Palace Hall contains historic items such as old weapons and artifacts. Each year, a crowd of people gathers around the Grand Palace to get a brief view of the Queen as she makes an appearance on the occasion of her birthday.

ANCIENT CITY

Ancient City (Mueang Boran)

(●296/1, Sukhumvit Road, Bang Pu, Samutprakan; 02 709 1644; www.ancientcity.com) The ancient city is one of the largest outdoor museums in the world. This massive historical site is 80 hectares in size and features 109 copies of the country’s most illustrious monuments and buildings. When entering the city, people can imagine themselves living in the past in a tranquil setting that greatly differs from the city outside. This site educates the visitors about the history of Thailand and also impresses them with scale models of monuments to offer a realistic experience for visitors. The museum offers bicycle rental service to make the tour even more convenient and efficient.

Copy right of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)

TRAVEL SIGHTSEEING

TEMPLE OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA

Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew)

(●Na Phra Lan Road, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok (same location as The Grand Place); 02 224 3290) Wat Phra Kaew, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is considered the most valuable temple in Thailand. It is located inside another major attraction, the Grand Palace. The sight was sanctiﬁed back in the 14th century, and it remains the spiritual center of Thai religion today. Unlike the statues of the Buddha in other temples, the Emerald Buddha is relatively small, as it is only approximately 66 centimeters tall. Despite the statue’s small size, it is one of the most visited attractions due to its historical value. The Buddha is covered in diﬀerent robes every season for ceremonial purposes.

Books can be purchased online directly from the publisher.

www.wolfendenpublishing.com Orders with a Bangkok mailing address same day delivery.

"I love all of Harold Stephens books"

— Han Suyin, Author of A Many-Splendoured Thing 26 LOOKEAST | TRAVEL “Autographed copies available at the Kisok, The Mandarin Oriental Hotel”

The Racha

HOTELS CHECKING IN

ISOLATE YOURSELF ON A CASUAL RETREAT Overlooking Andaman Sea, The Racha offers tranquility on one of Thailand’s busiest islands.

he city often exhausts you with waves of heat, neverending traffic, and unwanted interactions. Sometimes all you want to do is get away from it all. Sail away to the south of Phuket, where you will find The Racha (●42/12–13 Moo 5, Rawai, Muang, Phuket; 076 355 455), a remote destination where you can enjoy solitary freedom. The Racha is accessible only by sea, meaning that travelers will have to take water transportation to get to Racha Yai Island. Located 19 kilometers south of Phuket, the resort is a 35-minute speedboat ride from Chalong Bay. The speedboat costs THB 1,600 per person, although the fee is halved for children under age of 12 and is free of charge for infants under four. Surrounded by pristine water of the Andaman, The Racha makes an ideal stay

Lookeast | Hotels

by Yongmin Shon for leisure travelers, families, and couples. The first impression of The Racha is of a tropical, nature-oriented, and communal resort. The villas stand closely to one another in a way that feels homey, but they are far enough so that you have your own private space. The Racha features 85 villas in total, all equipped with indoor and outdoor couches, private terraces, large bathrooms, and enclosed and openair showers. Guests are also provided with access to wireless Internet, a movie collection, LCD TV, satellite TV, DVD player, mini bar, electronic safe, as well as an iPod dock. There are eight different types of villa, including the Deluxe Villa, Grand Deluxe Villa, Grand Deluxe Pool, Junior Pool Suite, Spa Pool Suite, Grand Pool Suite, and Two-Bedroom Grand Pool Suite. The most intriguing accommodation is The Lighthouse, a structure shaped like

a real lighthouse, where visitors can enjoy the view from a higher perspective. I’m particularly impressed by the contribution The Racha has made to the environment. The resort has prohibited cutting and filling of the land to mitigate environmental damage, and thickened the property’s walls to reduce load on air conditioning. Rope lights and low-power lamps are used throughout the resort, as well as ozone rather than chlorine in all pools. The staff members clean the beach daily, recycle waste, and operate public toilets for day travelers. One of the advantages of staying at The Racha is the abundance of wine and dining choices. Each restaurant or bar offers different cuisines and characteristics in a distinct atmosphere. Some key places are listed below:

The Racha The Racha

divers can explore. For those who wish to learn diving, the resort houses a PADI 5-star dive center, where visitors can take lessons and take short trips to some of the famous diving sites nearby. Thanks to the clear water and natural surroundings, visitors can enjoy various outdoor activities. Some land activities that the resort offers include ATVs, mountain biking, and nature walking. Aquatic activities such as canoeing, kayaking, and diving are all worth a try. The resort has outdoor tennis and

The Racha

● The Earth Café: The all-day dining area specializes in Western and Thai cuisines in a comfortable indoor or outdoor setting. ● Fire Grill: A fine-dining restaurant that serves predominantly Mediterranean cuisine, a perfect place for couples. ● Ice Bar: The bar offers wide-ranging selection of cocktails, accompanied by live bands playing your favorite tunes. ● Sunset Beach Restaurant: A casual restaurant located by the shores of the Andaman, which offers local specialties and barbecue. ● Club Del Mar: In this club located by the pool, visitors can enjoy good food and drinks, as well as underwater music from day to night. There are four main beaches that surround The Racha: Batok Bay, Siam Bay, Ter Bay, Kon Kare Bay. Well-known diving sites are situated near each area, including Home Run, Staghorn Reef, and Lucy’s Reef. Home Run dive site, located near the Ter Bay, is especially popular for having clear visibility and for the small wrecks where

basketball courts as well. For those who prefer staying inside, The Racha offers Thai boxing classes, Thai craft classes, cooking classes, and a pool table with full equipment. A quality spa is a necessity for any relaxing getaway. The Racha’s acclaimed Anumba Spa operates under the goal of “rejuvenating mind, body and spirit” for customers. It strives to achieve this goal through signature therapies and treatments that use unique ingredients. Treatments such as Anumba Aromatherapy Massage, Oriental Oil Massage, and Sanctuary Sports Massage are popular choices among visitors. A sauna, steam room, fitness center and studio are also situated on the same grounds. Relaxation aside, Racha Yai Island is a renowned destination for a romantic getaway. Travellers choose The Racha for an ideal honeymoon. Weddings can be held at The Racha as well, with options of Thai traditional weddings or Western weddings. Many couples have held private sunset weddings at The Racha by the shore. For me, The Racha was the perfect place to spend some time alone on a casual retreat with great food and service, and breathtaking views. september 2014 | 29

The Racha

Hua Change Heritage Hotel

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

Thai Residence Special Rate

What: Take advantage of The Racha Phuket’s Thai Resident Rate, with big discounts. For example, book the Deluxe Villa for THB 5,070 net (normal price THB 7,800 net), the Spa Pool Suite for THB 10,920 net (normal price THB 16,800), and 2BR Grand Pool Suite for THB 17,745 net (normal price THB 27,300). Valid for all villa types. The third person charge is THB 1,200++ per person per night inclusive of breakfast, 50 percent discount for children under 12 years of age. When: From now until October 31 Where: The Racha More info: www.theracha.com

Launch of The Ivory Lounge & Pool Bar

What: Enjoy great savings from the Super Deal Super Discount promotion when you stay at Vic3 Bangkok. Get 20 percent off their Best Flexible Rates and many extra benefits including complimentary daily breakfast for two people, basic Wi-Fi Internet access and two pieces of laundry service for free. The offer is valid for a minimum stay of two consecutive nights. When: For booking from now until December 31 Where: Vic 3 Bangkok More info: 02 618 9888; reservation.vic3@the-ascott.com

Unique Resort Kids Program

What: DoubleTree Resort by Hilton Phuket has expanded its “Unique Resort Kids Program,” which started in July this year. To provide more benefits to parents who travel with kids, it created a unique resort kids program for children ages 5 to 12 years old. A journey of the kids program begins with a warm welcome kit offering DoubleTree cookie and milkshake drink upon arrival. The resort also provides kids a welcome package including activity schedule, coloring book, and a resort map with a friendly explanation accompanied by Mr. DoubleTree Cookie. Kids can get to take part in various activities such as swimming in a kid’s pool with two giant waterslides, colour painting, balloon art twisting, and making a handmade souvenir. When: Ongoing Where: DoubleTree Resort by Hilton Phuket More info: 088 451 1152

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Vic3 Bangkok

Vic3 Bangkok Launches Super Deal Super Discount Promotion

What: Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Bangkok, at Phayathai, unveiled its newest chic “The Ivory Lounge & Pool Bar.” Experience afternoon treat with a variety of Thai favorites, specialty bite-size cuisine, premiere spirits, sparkling wines, premium wines, and imported beers from around the world. Take advantage of the bar’s Social Hours “Buy 1 Get 1 Free,” available daily from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. When: Ongoing Where: Hua Change Heritage Hotel More info: 02 217 0777; www.huachangheritagehotel.com

SALA Seven Nights Getaway Package

What: Stay at the award winning SALA Samui on the “7 Night Getaway Package” and receive daily breakfast for two, transfers from/to Samui International Airport or any other point on Koh Samui, a bottle of sparkling wine on arrival, a 90-minute Aroma Therapy Massage for two, the choice of either Western or Thai set dinner for two (Food only), complimentary daily shuttle bus to Chaweng, based on schedule and complimentary late check out until 4 p.m., subject to availability. When: Ongoing Where: SALA Samui More info: reservations@salasamui.com

TRAVEL HOTEL DEALS

Your Dream Party Package

What: Your Dream Party Packages start at THB 650 net per person for a group booking of minimum from 50 people including free flow package of soft drinks, special price for corkage (THB 300 net per bottle), Thai buffet, etc. Book your party package with 30 percent deposit prior to September 30, and get a complimentary voucher for a one-night stay in the fabulous Deluxe Room with buffet breakfast for two people. When: From now until December 31 Where: Dream Hotel Bangkok More info: 02 254 8500; dos@dreambkk.com

Amari Phuket

What: Plan your stay with GLOW Trinity Silom ahead of time and receive a special 30 percent discount off their website’s rate when making a reservation, with the “Advance Purchase 60 days”. Rates start from THB 1,470 net per night at Superior Room and, alternatively, Deluxe Room is also available. Get more value when booking a Premier Room to enjoy 35 percent discount off their website rate at THB 1,820 net per night. When: From now until September 30 Where: GLOW Trinity Silom More info: 02 231 5050; rsvn.silom@ glowbyzinc.com

Ambassador Hotel Bangkok

Advance Purchase 60 Days Promotion

Amari Phuket Super Saver Package for Travel Lovers

What: Amari Phuket is launching a special Phuket Super Saver Package that offers a very competitive rate for stays until September 30. The room categories available are Superior Ocean Facing Rooms, Superior Ocean View Rooms, and Deluxe Ocean View Rooms. The package starts from THB 17,100 net for a six-day, five-night stay. This includes a complimentary round-trip airport transfer, daily buffet breakfast, a Thai set meal for an exclusive dinner at Rim Talay restaurant, and late check-out until 4 p.m. Additional nights added to this package will receive a five percent discount. When: From now until September 30 Where: Amari Phuket More info: 076 340 106 ext. 8033 or 8034; reservations.phuket@amari.com

Ambassador Shock Sale 20-70% Off

What: Visit Ambassador Hotel Bangkok’s G265 booth from September 4–7at the 32nd Thai Teaw Thai 2014, to be celebrated at Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to enjoy Ambassador Hotel gift vouchers offering 20–70 percent discount on rooms, food, beverages, and health center. Accommodation in Superior room at THB 2,200 net, inclusive of breakfast. Am Café ‘s international buffet lunch at THB 499 net. Hong Teh Chinese restaurant’ s buffet dim sum lunch or dinner at THB 555 net. Health center: three months’ membership at THB 3,000 net; yearly membership at THB 8,000 net. When: September 4 to 7 Where: Ambassador Hotel Bangkok More info: 02 254 0444 ext. 1230

What: The Peninsula Bangkok invites families and friends to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival with a special package for bookings with staying periods from until September 10. Priced at THB 15,888 net for two, the package includes two nights’ accommodation in a Deluxe Room with river views for two; daily buffet breakfast for two at the River Cafe & Terrace; “Happiness” set dinner at Mei Jiang restaurant for two; one box of egg custard mooncakes; 10 percent discount on Peninsula mooncakes purchased at The Peninsula Boutique. When: From now until September 1 Where: The Peninsula Bangkok More info: 02 861 2388; reservationpbk@peninsula.com

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Dusit Thani Hua Hin

Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival at The Peninsula Bangkok

Triple Nights Delight Promotion

What: Dusit Thani Hua Hin launched the new Triple Nights Delight promotion making Dusit’s Best Available Rates even better for a limited time. Travellers looking to make the most out of the remaining summer holiday months need only book a minimum stay of three nights to receive the third night free. Additionally, guests can receive double membership or mileage points from a select number of Dusit International’s airline and banking partners. When: From now until October 31 Where: Dusit Thani Hua Hin More info: 032 442 100; www.dusit.com/offers

TRAVEL NEWS

Sala Ayutthaya, Now Open!

ICONSIAM

SALA Hospitality Group’s latest gem, sala ayutthaya, welcomed its first guests and visitors on August 1, 2014. This new property, located along the northern banks of the Chao Phraya River in the heart of historic Ayutthaya, and directly opposite the famous Wat Phutthaisawan (Phutthaisawan Temple), is the fourth sala boutique branded property for the group, joining sala khaoyai, sala lanna Chiang Mai, and sala rattanakosin Bangkok.

A New National Landmark to Rise in Thailand

Grand Opening Party for DECA and Hua Hin’s White Lotus Sky Bar

The largest investment ever made by the private sector in Thailand in a property endeavor (THB 50,000 million), ICONSIAM, is a new riverside landmark being constructed in Bangkok. The development, for which piling has begun, promises to be a new landmark of national pride for Thailand. It will include two retail complexes, two world-class waterfront residential condominium buildings, as well as seven attractions that will be the first of their kind in Thailand, and will be called the “Seven Wonders at ICONSIAM.” The completion of the project is scheduled for 2017.

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa had the official opening of its New Designed Chilling Place “Deca” And “White Lotus Sky Bar,” the highest bar in Hua Hin town on August 8, 2014, which was held on the 17th floor of the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa. DECA is located next to the lobby of the resort. This lounge offers live entertainment from the Phillies’s band, it is decorated in modern contemporary style, and has indoor and outdoor areas.

Hilton Pattaya

Hilton Pattaya Receives HolidayCheck Quality Selection 2014 Award by HolidayCheck.com

Hilton Pattaya announced that it has earned HolidayCheck Quality Selection 2014 award for the second consecutive year. The award recognizes the hotels that have been rated exceptionally well by guests who have given their feedback on the hotel review portal HolidayCheck.com.

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Rayavadee Krabi Appoints Dalin Snidvongs Na Ayudhya as New General Manger

Rayavadee Krabi appointed Dalin Snidvongs Na Ayudhya as general manager. Snidvongs brings more than 20 years of experience in hospitality to her new assignment, having held posts at the Four Seasons Bangkok as director of restaurants; as managing director of Très Bien Co., and as the first Thai to hold the post of director of food and beverage at The Sukhothai Bangkok. During her seven years overseeing this Leading Hotel of the World property’s restaurant and events operations, she successfully launched its “Art of Dining” program which brought two and three Michelin-starred chefs from around the world and introduced them to Bangkok’s culinary scene.

Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin

Amari Phuket, led by Pierre-Andre Pelletier, vice president, area general manager, South Thailand (front row, the third from the left) and the management team received the Smoke Free Hotel Award 2014–2016, which was recently awarded by The Green Leaf Foundation and Thai Health Promotion Foundation.

Amari Phuket

Amari Phuket Receives the Smoke Free Hotel Award

Hagi and Railway Restaurant Received Excellence Award from Wine Spectator

Jan Weisheit (left), director of food and beverages of Centara Grand Beach Resort and Villas Hua Hin; On-anong Udomsed (2nd left), restaurant manager (Railway); Pornpirom Suksri (3rd left), restaurant manager (Hagi), and Tosaporn Setachita (right), wine sommelier, received the Award of Excellence 2014 from Wine Spectator magazine, for Hagi Japanese Restaurant and Railway Restaurant. This prestigious award recognizes restaurants with the most outstanding wine lists in the world.

Thai Polo Club

TRAVEL MY FAVORITE PLACE

FOR THE LOVE OF TRANQUILITY The Thai Polo Club and its surrounding countryside is my favorite place. And this is why! by Caroline Link

ature reenergizes you and gives you perspective. It’s therapeutic, relaxing, and so enjoyable. So why not escape from the city and enjoy Thailand’s beautiful countryside, just an hour and a half outside of Bangkok. The Thai Polo & Equestrian Club Thailand (●www.thai-polo-club.com) is like a beautiful piece of countryside tucked away inland, by the hills. It’s peaceful, and a sense of freedom, tranquility, and simplicity of life surrounds the area. And it’s not only countryside: from the club you can also see Pattaya’s skyline, and, in the distance, the sunset over the Gulf of Thailand. You’ll get to ride your horse past pineapple fields fields, and why not ask one of the farmers for a fresh slice that you can enjoy under the palm trees. You can continue your ride through the tapioca fields and up the mountain onto a beautiful viewpoint where all of Pattaya and its surroundings can be seen. I personally love the fresh air, and going for a walk along the plantation’s sand paths, where there is not another soul to be found.

Lookeast | TRAVEL

The clubhouse and Chukka bar are where everybody comes together. Polo players, riders, the whole family and friends gather to enjoy a meal or a drink. Fun is at its peak during and after the polo match, when you can watch all the excitement of the players, and you can hear the horses racing across the fields while kids are running around playing under the open sky. Some people lounge by the pool, soaking up the sun that shines through the palm trees. And after the game of polo, we all get together for drinks and barbecue. There is activity at the club, yet it is calm. It’s a place where everything is OK, where the world, nature, and people are one. You can feel the harmony. Everybody is happy. If you don’t get enough in just one day, you can stay there in old Thai houses with a view of the countryside, or in the rooms next to the stables, close to the horses. The Thai Polo & Equestrian Club is the perfect getaway from Bangkok. I love it there, and everybody else who has the chance to visit it does, too.

● Bring: Riding pants and bathing suit ● Must-do: Take a regular or poloriding lesson; go for a ride in the countryside; play golf at Siam Country Club or St. Andrews ● Must-see: View of the sunset with the sea, islands and Pattaya skyline from the hill; watch a game of polo while lounging by the pool or having a beer or a glass of wine at the Chukka bar; watch the ponies being ridden to the training track at sunrise. It looks beautiful with the lighting and the atmosphere is fantastic! ● Eat at: Lunch at Siam Country Club (Old or Plantation course) with a view of the countryside; dinner at The Glass House, Rimpa Lapin or Pan Pan (Italian) ● Drink at: The Glass House, Rimpa Lapin, or Chukka Bar, at the club ● Sleep at: The Thai House at the Thai Polo Club

Japan National Tourism Organization

TRAVEL FEATURE

City of Contrasts From geek culture and neon-lit madness to chic shopping and leafy pockets of seclusion, Tokyo has something for everyone. by Duncan Forgan

okyo’s Akihabara district isn’t a place for the noise and neon averse. The spiritual home of otaku (geek) culture, this enclave to the northeast of the city center conforms to preconceptions of Japan’s capital as a place of constant sensory overload. Garish, hyperactive emporiums sell every electronic gadget a tech-lover could ever crave. They sit cheek by jowl with book and comic stores packed with bespectacled teens browsing new and vintage manga and anime. Meanwhile, multi-level complexes resound to computerized cacophony as gamers immerse themselves in alternate realities. Loudest of all are the area’s string of parlors specializing in pachinko,

Lookeast | TRAVEL

Japan’s vertical version of pinball. There’s some kind of pounding Japanese techno concoction in the background, but the most potent sound emanates from the rows of machines, where rapt aficionados seem oblivious to the deafening noise of millions of small metal balls cascading through forests of pins. A five-minute hop away on the metro, a different Tokyo awaits. Heading north from Ueno Station, the buzz of the city gives way to the vast green expanse of Ueno Park. Couples unwind by the park’s many lakes and elderly gentlemen peruse newspapers on shaded benches. The park is considered by many to be Japan’s premier spot for arts and culture. The Tokyo National Museum is here, and so too

is the National Museum of Western Art, which is housed in a building by Le Corbusier. Nature abounds here also. Egrets and cormorants flit between thick stands of gingko. The cherry tree count, meanwhile, comes in at around 1,000 making this one of Japan’s most evocative spots during the spring cherry blossom season, a fact commemorated in verse by Matsuo Basho, the celebrated poet. Contrasts are inevitable in a city of Tokyo’s sheer size, but Ueno and Akihabara are far from the only contrasting nearneighbors in the city. Glitzy Ginza, with its super deluxe shops and exclusive ryotei (introduction-only restaurants), is a stone’s throw from the commercial center of Shinbashi, where armies of salarymen in identikit suits find post-work respite by downing gallons of sake and participating in raucous karaoke sessions. Meanwhile, over in Shinjuku, the sleaze of Kabukicho, the city’s most notorious red-light district, is offset by the beauty of the verdant Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, a mere 15-minute walk away. Visually too the city is something of a jumble. Often labeled “the most beautiful ugly city in the world,” Tokyo has little in the way of architectural consistency. However, amidst the soaring shards of steel and glass are contemporary masterpieces such as St. Mary’s Cathedral designed by the great Kenzo Tange and

Japan National Tourism Organization

also rewards when viewed from an elevated perspective. At an impressive 634 meters, the Tokyo Skytree in the Sumida area of the city is the tallest structure in Japan, and the views over the metropolis and out toward Mount Fuji are as stupendous as you might expect. Although gloriously random in many ways, one aspect in which Tokyo achieves near perfect consistency is in its dining options. In fact, such is the near uniform brilliance of the food here you could be forgiven for assuming that the authorities had threatened severe punishments on substandard cooks. There doesn’t seem to be any. In 2010, Tokyo surpassed Paris as the city with the most Michelin-starred rated venues and upscale dining can encompass everything from lavish kaiseki (multi-course) dinners to simple—but often prohibitively expensive—Japanese favorites such as sashimi and yakitori. You don’t have to max out your credit cards to eat like a shogun, however. Impeccably fresh and inexpensive sushi and sashimi can be found everywhere—most famously at the Tsukiji early-morning fish market—while bowls of deliciously creamy, salty ramen are the city’s go-to fast food. Many of the city’s best restaurants, meanwhile, also offer lunch deals at a fraction of the price of their evening sittings. Tokyo’s nightlife scene is just as vibrant. Bars and venues are everywhere

Japan National Tourism Organization

the crystalline Prada flagship store in Omotesando, the city’s current hive of high-end fashion. There’s plenty of charm to be found in among all the modernism too. The gargantuan Meiji, Tokyo’s most famous Shinto shrine, snares most of the tourist traffic, and deservedly so. Other secondary temples—some located yards from the city’s most futuristic edifices— are equally evocative however. Oldschool neighborhoods such as Yanaka, meanwhile, with their vibrant markets, low-rise wooden architecture, traditional shops and narrow twisting lanes offer a tantalizing window back to the Edo period. Tokyo is rightfully regarded as a world leader in fashion, and shopping opportunities are multifold. Ginza and Omotesando are known as high fashion Meccas and feature a multitude of flagship stores with Japanese brands such as Comme Des Garçcons and Issey Miyake located alongside the likes of Prada, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton. More down-market, but just as visually enthralling, is Harajuku, Japan’s center of youth culture and fashion. Here, throngs of (mostly) young girls use the crowded streets as a catwalk for outlandish and often provocative outfits, inspired by everything from manga and anime to Western musical subcultures such as hip-hop and glam rock. In Tokyo, there’s always something going on at street level. However, the city

september 2014 | 39

While foreigners are not allowed in some of the bars—their size can make language barriers seem even more obvious—most are friendly and welcoming. Many of the bars are geared toward the affinities of their owners and customers, and themes vary from British punk rock to horse racing and Chinese board games. Obsessive, anarchic, and completely one of a kind, Tokyo is a city that revels in such unlikely juxtapositions.

Where to Sleep

What to Do

Conrad Tokyo (●+81 3 6388 8000, www. conradhotels3hilton.com) Located among the skyscrapers of Shiodome, overlooking Tokyo Bay and within easy striking distance of Ginza and Tsujiki, the Conrad is an excellent luxury choice. Rooms are very spacious and there are two Michelin-starred restaurants inhouse.

Studio Ghibli Museum (●www.ghibli-museum.jp) Known as the “Disney of the East,” Studio Ghibli is famous for creating the bestquality anime (Japanese-style animation) around. This fantastic museum is where fans from around the world come to pay homage to the genre.

Sushi Dai A trip to Tsukiji, Tokyo’s giant morning fish market, is an essential pitstop for visiting foodies. A sushi breakfast is de rigeur, and the seafood at Sushi Dai is justifiably famous for its amazing freshness and equally astounding value. Omoide Yokocho Nicknamed “Shonben Yokocho” (piss alley) by the locals, this tiny side street near Shinjuku station is packed with small yakitori stalls where delicious sticks of meat, seafood, and vegetables are served up 24-hours a day. Ramen Street This thoroughfare at Tokyo Station is devoted to the Chinese-derived, umamiladen, bowls of egg noodles in broth. With some of the city’s most vaunted ramen alchemists such as Rokurinsha represented, it is a one-stop shop for the noodle obsessed.

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Inner City Onsen There’s no need to venture out of Tokyo to bathe in natural hot springs. The capital has a diverse range of onsen from oldschool public baths to giant complexes such as Oedo Onsen Monogatari, the city’s most famous source of geothermal goodness.

New York Bar The most sophisticated view in the city can be found in the Park Hyatt’s sumptuous cocktail bar, where the character played by actor Bill Murray famously spent large portions of the film “Lost in Translation” sipping whisky.

What to See Tokyo Skytree Currently the second-highest building in the world after Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, this 634-meter structure was completed in February 2012. The upper observation deck at 450 meters offers panoramic views over the city and on to Mount Fuji, 100 kilometers in the distance.

Japan National Tourism Organization

Where to Eat

Shibuya Crossing Arguably the most famous intersection on the planet, this Shibuya landmark is one of the best people-watching spots in town. The preferred vantage point is from the Starbucks in the Tsutaya building on the crossing’s north side, which is one of the coffee chain’s most lucrative outlets.

Metropolitan City Hall Kenzo Tage’s city hall building in Shinjuku is one of Tokyo’s most imposing structures. It also has one of the best free vistas in the city at a pair of observation decks 252 meters high.

Japan National Tourism Organization

and range from casual izakayas (drinking restaurants) and laid-back venues where music-obsessed proprietors take time out from mixing cocktails to select items from vast collections of vinyl to cutting-edge design bars and super-clubs. One of the most charismatic spots is Golden Gai in Shinjuku. A network of tiny alleys, connected by even narrower passageways, Golden Gai plays host to more than 200 shanty-style bars, many with room for around six patrons or fewer.

Japan National Tourism Organization

TRAVEL FEATURE

THE KINGDOM’S BEST: A ROUND-UP by Richard Mcleish 42

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Nikki Beach Phuket

LIFESTYLE INSIDER

RockPool, Koh Samui

A treasure trove of delights, Thailand rewards even its most regular visitors with thrills and surprises each visit. Here we update your mental lists, just to make sure you don’t miss out on anything during your next visit.

Top Brunch Spots (Independent) Nikki Beach Phuket (●076 681 161, www.nikkibeachthailand.com/phuket) The biggest weekly party on the island happens every Sunday at Nikki Beach. Since landing in March, the famous party brand hasn’t failed to disappoint with its signature spread of culinary treats and regular champagne bottle fights. RockPool, Koh Samui (●077 234 500, samuirockpool.com) Nestled right on the water and conveniently close to a fish market, one of Samui’s best daytime eating options comes to life on Sundays when oysters are the play of the day. Mantra Restaurant & Bar, Pattaya (●038 429 591, www.mantra-pattaya.com) The self-dubbed “stylish” dinner destination of Pattaya, Mantra shakes off its hangover on Sundays to open for a brunch well worth getting out of bed and possibly back on the bubbly for.

Mantra Restaurant & Bar, Pattaya

Rocket Coffeebar, Bangkok (●02 635 0404, www.rocketcoffeebar.com) For considered, organic ingredients and some of the best coffee in town, the stylish set head to Rocket for their brunch, available every day of the week. Don’t miss the vitamin-filled smoothies or sous vide eggs Benedict. Quince – Eatery & Bar, Bangkok (●02 662 4478, www.quincebangkok.com) Nestled cosily on Sukhumvit Soi 45 is local favorite Quince, which began throwing its doors open to weekend brunchers due to popular demand this year with a fresh menu that’s not to be missed.

september 2014 | 43

Namsaah Bottling Trust

Baba Nest at Sri Panwa, Phuket

LIFESTYLE INSIDER

Top Thai Restaurants (Mid-Range)

Top Cocktail Bars Sineha Bar, Phuket (●Yaowarat Road) Enter the tall wooden blue doors to find an enclave of Phuket Town’s upwardly mobile. With live music most nights of the week, the place has a reputation for providing lively nights out and decent snacks, too. Baba Nest at Sri Panwa, Phuket (●076 371 000, www.sripanwa.com) At one of the most spectacular bars in the region, settle into a beanbag and take in the surreal setting at sunset over a glass of something delicious. The word is out, so reserve in advance for your perch in the sky. Also available for functions. V20, Pattaya (●080-107-0704, www.v2o-icebar.com) Escape the bustle of Walking Street and head into the ice-cold surrounds of V20 vodka bar. Fueled by Stolichnaya, you’ll have had more shots than you can remember before you realize you’ve already forgotten in this chilled-out chill out lounge.

Raya, Phuket Old Town (●076 21 8155) A famous foodie destination of the island, Raya is situated in a charming old Portuguese colonial house. Don’t miss the signature crabmeat curry and pork belly. Cooking classes are available, too.

J. Boroski Mixology, Bangkok (●02 712 6025, www.josephboroski.com) Tucked behind a secret door in a neglected Thonglor soi is mixologist Boroski’s cocktail headquarters. The drinks are bespoke, the service is sincere and the mood is full of understated style. Perfect for a date.

Namsaah Bottling Trust (●401 Silom Soi 7, Bangkok; 02 636 6622; www.fb.com/namsaahbottlingtrust), Thai cuisine? Western? Fusion? Chef Ian Kittichai is ready to have a little fun on the menu rather than conform to a cuisine canon at his recently opened restaurant. The result is a fresh take on what’s already been done well, in a great new setting.

Glam, Bangkok (●02 714 8946, www.facebook.com/glambkk) With the name saying it all, this venue is located in the heart of the Thonglor/Ekamai party zone. While the shisha smoking laws of the city hang in the balance, there’s plenty else to keep your social self occupied here.

EAT, Bangkok (●02 251 1230, www.facebook.com/eatallthai) Short for “eat all Thai” this spin-off from the ever-popular Supanniga in Thong Lor easily justifies its flashy position at new food destination Groove. Half of the menu is new, and continues the style of regional dishes such as the juicy Ayutthaya river shrimp. The 66 Cottage, Bangkok (●02 744 9622, www.facebook.com/The66Cottage) Tucked on the even side of deep Sukhumvit, The 66 Cottage affords visitors who make the trek an extensive garden and tranquil surrounds. On the menu are simple homestyle Thai dishes and a tempting spread of sweets for after. They also host markets and yoga classes.

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EAT, Bangkok

Chao Lay, Hua Hin (●03 251 3436) Situated on a rickety wooden platform in downtown Hua Hin, this regular restaurant is typically packed with locals and tourists alike. Dine on huge plates of seafood or fresh fish, cooked to your liking, amid a bustling spectacle.

LIFESTYLE INSIDER

Top Chill-Out Coffee Spots

Top Daytime Parties

Ristr8o Coffee, Chiang Mai (●053 215 278, www.ristr8to-coffee-chiangmai.com) An early player in the Kingdom’s coffee revolution, Ristr8o raises the practice to an art form. Serving signature ristretto doppio, the rotating menu of single origin beans depends on the season. Their latte art is already all over Instagram.

KC Beach Club, Samui (●077 915 155, kcbeachclub.com) During the week the resort ticks over with a steady stream of guests ready to chill, but on weekends the pool winds up into an actionfilled arena of fun. Keep an eye out for special parties, particularly during high season.

Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House, Chiang Rai (●081 984 2925, www.chivitthammada.com) Situated in a colonial house that takes in sweeping views of the river, this could be the perfect perch to enjoy Thai cuisine and while away a northern afternoon in style. A Spa is attached for further indulgence.

Catch Beach Club, Phuket (●076 316 567, catchbeachclub.com) One of the oldest day clubs in Thailand, Catch Beach Club has been running the Surin Beach party scene for years. While it’s priced accordingly, being this cool was never cheap or easy. Entry does include the same value in F&B.

La a natu Bread & Bakery, Prachuap Khiri Khan (●081 731 8688, www.laanatu.com) Not your average seaside resort, La a natu is an eco-friendly haven just a few hours’ drive from Bangkok. The Thai–Lao architecture will soothe as you enjoy homestyle bakery items such as cakes, tarts, and the signature banoffee pie.

Beach Republic, Samui (●077 458 100, www.beachrepublic.com) The stylish option of Samui brags two infinity pools and a steady roster of entertainment, including DJs and live acts. Mingle with the glam set of the island on Sundays when an international buffet is available.

Rocket @ Siwilai, Bangkok (●02 635 0404, www.rocketcoffeebar.com) After initially opening in Sathon, the coffee bar’s popularity prompted the appearance of this second outlet inside slick new mall Central Embassy. With fresh menu items and a vista-soaked balcony, the popularity is sure to continue.

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Beach Republic, Samui

Pool Parties at DoubleTree by Hilton, Bangkok

Casa Lapin X26, Bangkok (●081 261 2040, www.facebook.com/CasaLapin) Another early participant of the coffee race, Casa Lapin recently opened its fourth store in the city into a bigger space that has plenty of elbow room for a Sunday morning. It shares the building with a co-working space, a hostel, and a flower shop.

Kolour Sundays, Bangkok (●www.wearekolour.com) Starting as a simple sunset bash among friends, Kolour Sundays now has a great reputation for hosting regular sold-out party events in the capital. Keep an eye on their roster, which usually reaches top gear during the cooler months. Pool Parties at DoubleTree by Hilton, Bangkok (●02 649 6666, www.facebook.com/ DoubletreeSukhumvit) A newcomer to the Bangkok day party scene, Pool Parties’ regular events always pull a steady crowd that wants to up keep its weekend social momentum. The handy midSukhumvit location helps, too.

Paste

LIFESTYLE INSIDER

Expanding Horizons The bold flavors of Thai food are beloved the world over. But one of the great joys of living in Bangkok is having a front-row seat to watch the way this intoxicating cuisine is evolving …

here are certain dishes that are staples of Thai menus wherever you go: a pad thai, a green curry, and certain stir-fries, like a pad krapow. But Thai cuisine is rapidly developing beyond that, with modern Thai menus increasingly prominent. Broadly, this entails taking essentially Thai flavors and retaining that authenticity while reimagining certain dishes, incorporating contemporary technique and high-quality produce. Of course, that leaves plenty of room for interpretation

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by Thomas Sturrock and, within Bangkok, there is a spectrum of different approaches. Since opening Paste (●www. pastebangkok.com) in Thong Lor last year, Australian chef Jason Bailey has been serving up some of the city’s most considered, innovative Thai food. “Good Thai cooking produces a series of paradoxical tastes, not just several tastes smashed into an unidentifiable whole,” Bailey says, whose approach emphasizes freshness and complexity. “When you’ve finished a mouthful, you want a symphony

still pinging off on your palate. The order in which the cook scales these flavors is very important—that’s known as ‘rot chart’, meaning correct or harmonized taste.” Some of Bailey’s amuse-bouche offerings are particularly delicious examples. He serves crispy prawns with roasted coconut and cashew nuts served on rose apple, known as “ma haw”, but traditionally served on pineapple. There’s also a betel leaf wrap, known as a miang, combining watermelon and ground salmon with crispy shallots and

INTRODUCING NEW A-LA-CARTE, WEEKEND BRUNCH, AND WEEKDAY THALI MENUS

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contemporary indian dining

Paste

Benjarong restaurant

LIFESTYLE INSIDER

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roasted coconut. Next, rice crackers topped with roasted duck, nutmeg, curry paste, and sawtooth coriander. The original recipes for these dishes can be heavy on dry spices, like nutmeg, cinnamon and star anise, which were all the rage during the Ayutthaya period. Bailey’s approach is to offset these earthy, fermented flavors with an herbal lift. “That’s how we’re modernizing it,” he says. “A modern palate responds to freshness.” “You need to be able to taste the lemongrass, the coriander root, the garlic, the galangal. They should be pinging off inside your mouth. You want to get all those receptors going, the front of tongue, the back of tongue, inside the cheeks.” Anyone who has spent much time exploring Bangkok’s endless street food options will be familiar with a som tam, the relatively simple Thai salad using shredded papaya, fresh lime, chili, fish sauce and a dash of palm sugar. It’s a common staple among Bangkok’s street stalls, but Bailey’s version of the dish is another example of the way modern Thai cuisine reworks and elevates traditional dishes. The reimagined som tam is served here with crispy flashfried soft shell crab, green apple and mango alongside chili-lime foams thickened to the consistency of purees. The flavors of the street food som tam are still detectable but are more refined, complemented by textural adjustments and top-drawer produce. “Thai food embraces a ‘sum rap’ philosophy, all the dishes should interact with each other— it’s shared dining,” Bailey says. “But restaurants move past that—we tried to have those offsets on the one plate.

A restaurant is not a cultural museum, although it’s an expression of culture in a particular respect. You’re at a restaurant; you’re not in someone’s home. My job is to cook something that you could not do at home.” Earlier this year, the Dusit Thani Bangkok re-launched its renowned Benjarong restaurant (●Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd; 02 236 9999; www.dusit.com/dusitthani/bangkok), shifting the emphasis from traditional Thai food to a more contemporary style and presentation. To do this, they enlisted chef Morten Bojstrup Nielsen, who previously worked at Nahm in London and Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, in Bangkok. “We are now in a stage where it’s OK to do something modern with Thai food as long as we don’t say that it’s traditional Thai food,” Nielsen explains. “We have to be open about it—it’s my way of doing it. It’s based and inspired by Thai food. It’s not traditional but we’re using Thai flavors, I call it modern Thai. I think people are ready, as long as we’re open about it.” For example, Nielsen’s new menu at Benjarong includes a deconstructed tom yung koong, where the broth and seasoning are served separately before being combined at the table. The emphasis here is on presentation, on leading diners to think differently about the most familiar Thai dishes. Benjarong also serves a prawn satay with a side marinated cauliflower and cucumber. These flavors have also been reduced to an emulsion that can be used as a dipping sauce for the prawn. “I want to keep the flavor of the

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prawns without marinating them,” Nielsen explains. “And a little bit of the cucumber as well.” Certainly, Nielsen’s technique for separating flavors and style of presentation are several steps removed from anything in traditional Thai restaurants. But he insists he still adheres rigorously to the elements that, in his view, make Thai food distinct. “For me, Thai food is all about sauces, dressings, the curries, the relishes,” he says. “Sometimes there are ingredients used that are not classically Thai but that’s OK as long as you keep these condiments, these flavors. “I don’t have the Thai background— there’s a lot of tradition that they follow. Coming in as a foreigner, you might not mix mango and ginger as a Thai combination, but as a foreigner you might think that works. Modern cuisine is all about breaking out of that way of how things used to be.”

Also Visit Nahm (●Metropolitan Hotel, 27 South Sathorn Rd; 02 625 3388; comohotels.com/ metropolitanbangkok) David Thompson has done as much as any chef to put Thai food on the map and his restaurant in Bangkok, although more traditional in its approach, has some of the most considered Thai food anywhere in the world. Earlier this year, it was rated No. 1 in the San Pellegrino list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Siam Wisdom (●66 Sukhumvit Soi 31; 02 260 7811; www.siamwisdomcuisine.com) One of the more recent additions to Bangkok’s roll call of fine dining Thai restaurants, Siam Wisdom occupies a spectacularly refurbished Thai house in the backstreets of Asoke. The menu straddles traditional and modern Thai, with plenty of twists thrown in. The pomelo salad is outstanding.

Nahm

Issaya Siamese Club

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Issaya Siamese Club (●4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd; 02 672 9040; www.issaya.com) Ian Kittichai was Thailand’s first celebrity chef and, more recently, has become perhaps the country’s busiest, building an international empire of bars, restaurants, cafes, and cooking schools. His calling card in Bangkok is Issaya, where his dishes are characterized by innovative combinations and bold flavors.

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The Grand Pearl Dinner Cruise

s the summer humidity kicks in and the monsoon rains fall, head to the cool of Bangkok’s iconic Chao Phraya River at night to sip sunset cocktails, soak up the yesteryear feeling of Old Siam, marvel at the twinkling city lights on a dinner cruise, relax Australian café style, and go shopping!

The Deck By The River

(●La Grande Perle Restaurant, River City, Charoen Krung Road; 02 861 0255; www.grandpearlcruise.com) Glittering Thai architecture lit up at night looks spectacular as you glide by on one of the most established dinner cruises in the city. Starting at 7 p.m. from a French riverside restaurant—that happens to serve an exquisite truffle soup—step aboard for gourmet food, live music, and an unforgettable evening before docking again at 9:30 p.m.

The Grand Pearl Dinner Cruise

Bangkok River Nights

The Deck By The River

Asiatique The Riverfront

(●36–38 Maha Rat Road; 02 221 9158; www.arunresidence.com) One you find this restaurant tucked in a small side street leading to the river, climb the stairs beyond the restaurant to the small cocktail bar and behold one of the best sunset views in the city. On a clear day the open-sided roof bar perfectly frames Wat Arun across the river, bathing the scene in golden light as the sun goes down. With lovely cocktails to sip, too, this place is a wonderful start to any evening.

Asiatique The Riverfront

Dave Stamboulis

(●2194 Charoen Krung Road; 02 108 4488; www.asiatiquethailand.com) With 1,500 boutiques, a small village of indoor and al fresco restaurants serving cuisines from all over the world, not to mention a cabaret show, 4-D cinema, and Asiatique Sky Ferris wheel, this shopping and dining extravaganza is a new evening entertainment riverside venue. While there is a free shuttle boat from the pier at Saphan Taksin, the queues can be long, so you can hop in a cab to get there instead.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel (●23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng Si Phraya Pier, Yota Road; 02 639 6305; www.vivaaviv.com) A breezy, laid-back café and bar that is a relative riverside newcomer. Quirky cocktails and seating right on the dock with great river views, good food, and chilledout tunes. A perfect riverside retreat!

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Mandarin Oriental Hotel

Viva & Aviv The River

(●48 Oriental Avenue; 02 659 9000; www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok) Opened in 1876, this splendid five-star riverside beauty has all the glamor of a movie star. Although there are ten outstanding restaurants and bars to choose from, The Riverside Terrace is perfect for al fresco dining by the water, with an appetizing international menu that features some classic Thai dishes too.

LIFESTYLE INSIDER

hat does the perfect post-holiday travel anecdote involve? A paradise beach? A vast cuisine to discover? Perhaps a new mate from a faraway land? These days it can involve a lot more, particularly if you’re a little daring. With its established travel infrastructure, Thailand caters well to more adventurous visitors looking for some adrenaline-tinged activities to balance their relaxation. Try these at your own risk (and fun). While it’s tempting to contemplate your navel from a hammock on a southern beach, the Krabi area in the south is home to some of the most spectacular rock climbing in the region. The Railay peninsula has been a climbing Mecca ever since backpackers first discovered its spectacular limestone rock faces in the 1970s. It offers more than 700 routes ranging from beginner to extreme, some of which ascend right from the sand and

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Hot Rock climbing school

From rock climbing to rafting, Thailand offers its more intrepid visitors a plethora of options. Richard Mcleish pushes the boundaries of his travel insurance policy to find the Kingdom’s outer limits of adrenaline-filled fun.

overhang turquoise waters below. For info and guides, try Hot Rock Climbing School (●www.railayadventure. co) and Tonsai Basecamp (●www. basecamptonsai.com). Every year as the wet season descends, the rafting element of the Kingdom mobilizes to make use of the swelling rivers and gurgling rapids. The most popular spots are located closer to Bangkok, but the North is where the real adventure is, rewarding the more intrepid with smaller crowds and more itinerary options. The Pai and Mae Tang rivers attract the most attention with their jungle scenery, frequency of rapids and reliability. For info, contact Thai Adventure Rafting (●www.thairafting.com) or Siam River Adventures (●www.siamrivers.com), both of which offer 1- to 3-day packages that suit all levels of experience. If you prefer petrol-driven thrills, Pattaya is the go to place for many adrenaline junkie scenarios. Dive through

the sky with Thai Sky Adventures (●www.thaiskyadventures.com) who run training courses and tandem jumps 30 minutes’ drive from the city (or 90 minutes from Bangkok). The undisputed home of motor racing in Thailand is Bira Circuit (●www.bira.co.th), a 2.4-kilometer international-standard track that lies 20 kilometers from Pattaya’s center. After you’ve whet your racing appetite there, Pattaya Kart Speedway (●www. pattayakart.com) offers two dedicated karting tracks: professional (750 meters) and beginner (450 meters). EasyKart (●www.easykart.net) maintains a smaller circuit also with public access in the downtown area. With these guidelines in mind, plot your own unique adventure in the Kingdom and script the quintessential travel tale for ultimate bragging rights to match your post-holiday tan and grin.

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Expat Secrets We learned the hard way, so you don’t have to. For God’s sake, make sure you’ve got the right airport. There’s nothing worse than jumping in a taxi and being halfway to Sukhumvit before realizing your flight leaves from Don Mueang.

Motorbike taxis may appeal as an alternative; the drivers are usually more easygoing. But choose carefully, especially at night once they’ve had time to start drinking, and agree on a fare in advance.

If you’re out for dinner at 7 p.m. and then waiting around for nightlife to pick up, you’ll get bored. In general, Bangkok is at its best around midnight or later.

Ignore tuk tuks completely. If anything, take one once to know what it is like, but they’ll ask THB 200 to take you just a few blocks along Sukhumvit. Also, if they take you out for the day, they’ll likely take you to shops where they’ve organized kickbacks.

Make the effort to see a live band or go to a Thai club. Although the lyrics sometimes get slightly warped in translation, Thai performers often have a real gift for musicianship.

Don’t just stick to the main roads—the greatest discoveries are to be found in the sub-sois. Explore the back alleys of streets that run along the rivers, or the various sois branching off Silom. You’ll be rewarded. Don’t be timid when it comes to street food—it’s great stuff. It’s easy to be intimidated by places that don’t have a menu, but don’t be afraid to take a few risks. Or, at least, find a few staples you know you like.

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In the rainy season, expect to get wet about 3 p.m. Even if the skies look clear enough, there’s a good chance it won’t last. So get wherever you’re going early—you don’t want to be on the back of a bike when the heavens open. Rooftop bars are very popular, but pick and choose. Some trade entirely on their location without making much effort when it comes to the food and drink, while still charging inflated prices. When getting a massage, firm pressure means firm. You might wonder whether the tiny Thai masseuse has got what it takes, but don’t be fooled—they’ve got strong little hands. Try to learn some Thai phrases. At the very least, learn some numbers to negotiate prices, as well as how to communicate basic directions. You’ll be less likely to be ripped off.

Be patient. Thai people are friendly and hospitable (apart from taxis drivers) but they are rarely in a hurry, and losing your cool can quickly make an awkward situation worse. Bangkok is not a city you want to be running late and desperately in, trying to get across town in a rush. That will end in hot, sweaty frustration. Plan ahead; leave early.

Takumi Iigai

Eating Thai food is one of the great joys of visiting or living in Bangkok. Thai flavors are usually pretty bold but, if all you can taste is lime and chili, the restaurant isn’t trying hard enough. Complexity is quality.

Takumi Iigai

Thais are generally a helpful and friendly bunch. Taxi drivers are the big exception: they’ll simply refuse to take you if you’re going out of their way. Always get them to turn on the meter.

contemporary indian dining

Nawabi Raan by Chef Pratab Singh, formerly at Bukhara (ITC Maurya New Delhi)

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Dave Stamboulis

TRAVEL MINI GUIDE

ZOOM SKY BAR AND RESTAURANT

Mini Guide: Sathorn Road From must-visit bars and restaurants to Bangkok’s best-hidden places, this neighborhood will never disappoint you. Hit Saphan Taksin BTS station and see it for yourself. By Dave Stamboulis

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and some chic lounging to go with French Mediterranean and Asian delights on the menu, paired with an extensive cocktail and wine list.

Zoom Sky Bar and Restaurant

(●27 South Sathorn Road, Metropolitan Hotel; 02 625 3388; www.comohotels. com/metropolitanbangkok/dining/nahm) It’s not only the best restaurant on Sathorn, it’s one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, at least according to UK’s Restaurant Magazine. Nahm, run by Michelinstarred winning master chef, Australian David Thompson, serves up central Thai cooking at its finest, whipping up fresh and mouthwatering Thai delicacies without toning down the spice. The coconut and curry blue swimmer crab is a knockout, as is the kurobuta pork with yellow beans, but just about everything is a winner here.

hile Thong Lor and Silom have long gotten the accolades for great food and drink, Sathorn is now firmly established on the city’s foodie list, with a host of new top-notch spots along with plenty of old favorites to grab a bite or have a sip in. Accessed by the Lumpini MRT station on its east end, and by Saphan Taksin or Surasak BTS stations on the west end, there are plenty of reasons to head out here for some wining and dining.

(●36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Road; 02 210 9000; www.bangkok-sathorn. anantara.com/zoom-sky-bar-restaurant) Not so many folks know about this killer rooftop bar and restaurant, set on top of the Anantara Sathorn Hotel. Zoom features great sunsets, 360-degree city views (one of the only roof bars to look out on the southern bend of the Chao Phraya River),

Nahm

TRAVEL MINI GUIDE

(●21/100 South Sathorn Road; 02 679 1200; www.banyantree.com) The seafood grill here, led by roasted snow fish served with capers and butternut squash as well as the Appetizer Plate featuring seared bay scallops, seared foie gras, tuna tartare, and lobster spring rolls make the journey worthwhile, but the top reason to come to Vertigo is to dine with the best view in Bangkok. The restaurant is perched on the rooftop of the Banyan Tree Hotel on the 61st floor, and the views are unmarred and open air. Besides seafood, Vertigo also does high-end meat dishes, such as Wagyu beef and roasted rack of lamb. If you arrive early, you can have a drink at the neighboring Moon Bar. Be prepared to blow the bank here; it isn’t cheap. But for a magnificent splurge, it’s one of Bangkok’s true highs.

UNCLE JOHN’S

Dave Stamboulis

Rocket

(●149 Sathorn Soi 12; 02 635 0404; www.rocketcoffeebar.com) To say that Rocket is just a coffee bar is not really fair. While the coffee here is stellar, with slow drip pour-overs ranking with any spot in town, the food is also worth stopping in for. The queues can be long for

brunch, with Bangkokians faithfully trying to secure a counter spot to sample the excellent eggs Benedict. Rocket also dishes out soup and baguettes, granola, banana waffles, gravlax on rye, and homemade ice cream. All the seating is around an open kitchen, both intimate and cozy, with large windows affording views out to see what the latest eatery or bar on Soi 12 might be.

Uncle John’s

(●279/2 Suanphlu Soi 8; 081 373 3865) Located slightly off Sathorn on Suan Plu, this is one spot worth seeking out. Started by the former head chef of the five-star Sukhothai hotel, Uncle John’s is a hole-in-the-wall cafe in an alleyway full of noodle vendors where you can dine on foie gras and filet mignon for two-star prices! Although the restaurant is no longer Bangkok’s best kept secret, having been written up recently by a handful of magazines, the ambience remains just as delightful and the food just as superb as ever. Uncle John has brought his wife aboard to handle the full house every night, as people come to sample some truly gourmet food in a most down-to-earth and homey environment.

THE MOON BAR AND VERTIGO

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Dave Stamboulis

ROCKET

Dave Stamboulis

The Moon Bar and Vertigo

Dave Stamboulis

PARK SOCIETY & HI SO

Park Society & Hi So

(●2 North Sathorn Road, Sofitel So; 02 624 0000; www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com/ en/park-society.html) For over-the-top gastronomy and incredible views, a night at Park Society and Hi So will dazzle. This chic rooftop restaurant and adjoining bar on top of the Sofitel So combines superb French-style gastronomic dining with bird’s-eye views of Lumpini Park through the full-length windows and outdoor bar area. There is an Asian Pacific set menu featur-ing Hokkaido scallops, pan-seared foie gras with pear purée, Wagyu beef, and snow fish, and an even more extensive Chef's Table with five courses for THB 5,000. Other delicacies include roast pigeon and Canadian lobster. Don’t forget to leave room for some crème brûlée or soufflé for dessert. Chef Paul Smart presides over a stylish kitchen, and all the set menus are available with wine pairings. The views of Lumpini Park are the best you will find in Bangkok, and it’s worth coming at sundown for a drink in the bar to watch the park change colors.

Hanakaruta

(●Sathorn Soi 10; 085 061 7318) Following in the footsteps of the original Hanakaruta over on Sukhumvit Soi 39, this Japanesestyle watering hole makes some amazing cocktails. The place looks like a library,

except that the walls are plastered in just about every brand of Japanese whiskey and sake that you will ever come across. The specialty here is plum wine, in fact Hanakaruta makes its own, and the ume highballs, made with Suntory whiskey, are some of the tastiest and most affordable cocktails (THB 130) in town.

Ku De Ta

(●40th Floor, Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Road; 02 108 2000; www. kudeta.com) No Sathorn eating and drinking list would be complete without the inclusion of Ku De Ta. This 40th-floor of the Sathorn Building collection of elegant bars and restaurants combines sumptuous dining, fine drinking, and knockout views for those with pocket money. Standouts here include Izakaya, a casual Japanese restaurant; Signature, the Japanese rooted flagship restaurant run by gourmet chef Jonathan Maza; and the Ku Bar, where the Nordic Bar Syndicate (whose motto is “a cocktail is not just a beverage but an occasion worth remembering”) has created wild drink concoctions for the brave.

Lady Brett

(●149 Soi Sueksawittaya, Sathorn Soi 12; 02 635 0405; www.ladybrett.com)

This charming new casual tavern is winning over fans by serving up rustic fare from the barbecue-like fire roasted mustard chicken and braised lamb shank to go with the signature cocktails such as the Seafaring Trader (Gosling’s Black Seal rum, Averna, lime, cocoa nib syrup, chocolate bitters) in a New York–style tavern setting. There is also an elegant lounge called U.N.C.L.E upstairs where you can continue a chilled out night out.

Green

(●956-58 Sathorn Soi 8; 02 636 6222; www.greensaladthailand.com) Not only can you indulge in fine gourmet eating in Bangkok’s new foodie enclave between sois 8 and 12, but you can eat healthy, too. Green offers good-for-thesystem soups, salads, and sandwiches using organic vegetables supported by local farmers. Dig into tasty treats like minestrone or pumpkin soup, or one of Green’s homemade stews or premium sandwiches like chicken pita or pork panini. Green also makes healthy smoothies and juices, and it even does delivery and catering. The rice and tea here are organic, grown by Karen hill tribe farmers up north, and the restaurant partners up with the Royal Project in Chiang Rai. september 2014 | 63

LIFESTYLE THE HEDONIST

THE SECRET TO LONGEVITY GENES Predictive genetic testing can tell you what disease you—or your unborn child—might have in 10 years … and help you change it. by Dr. Konstantinos I. Papadopoulos, MD, PhD, Endocrinologist and Diabetologist

s the Delphic oracle precept states: “Know thyself” and “re-stamp the currency.” That is, “pay no attention to the opinion of the multitude” and “revalue not the truth but the accepted custom.” There is an ultimate knowledge that these days that is available to all: genetic knowledge. What would you say if I told you the once mysterious information from the hugely expensive Human Genome Project and Genome Wide Association Studies-GWAS is now easily available and affordable for anyone? Our DNA and the nucleotides, the chemical bases A, T, C, and G, that make it up, are the blueprint and exactly the same for everyone, yet the result in combining the bases (called “genes”) varies to a great extent, functions fluctuate widely, and associations to diseases differ considerably. We all have the same components arranged in the same order, but the “manufacturing,” the fitting together of all of these components, and their anatomy and function, all varies significantly.

Unraveling Your Genetic Code

Our genes and our DNA carry sites where environment (chemical disruptors, pollution, climate, light), lifestyle (stress, nutrition, exercise, supplements, medications) and many unknown factors act and regulate what will happen with a particular gene, whether it will be silenced or expressed, without any change to the gene code itself (same ingredients, different recipe). That means what we do with the genes we have been given by our parents is what makes us who we are; that we can modulate what we have inherited; that talent and hard work can work together or against each other depending on us! Environmental cues, whether in the

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womb or in our adult lives, may modulate gene and, thus, disease expression. A lot of it we can control, like what we eat and how much, whether we smoke, drink, and avoid or prefer exercise. This phenomenon is called epigenetic modification, and it may be one of the main answers of why we are all different. You are unique, and so are your actions and their effects on yourself. Many of these epigenetic changes can be inherited, so a bad gene that has been modified can be inherited in the silenced form to your children and conversely. This means that your destiny is not carved in stone; rather, you can change it, and you can write a different ending than the endings you have seen in your family. The blindness of your maternal grandmother and the genes to macular degeneration you and your mother bear; the diabetes and obesity before the heart attack of your father and the genes to all these conditions you carry; the breast cancer of your aunt and your mother. All this can be known beforehand—and possibly be changed—through genetic testing. Do you know what your chance is to survive the next 10 years? By knowing your fitness level, your weight and height, body fat percentage, smoking and alcohol habits, blood pressure and also blood fat levels, a doctor (and an insurance company) can tell you your risks, and precision can be refined through predictive genetic testing. In Thailand, companies like THAI StemLife (●www.Thaistemlife.co.th) and most of the leading hospitals provide this test for the price of a high-end health checkup. Fitness and nutrition reflect on how your body looks and perform. No matter how much you insist on your lifestyle being healthy, your body speaks and tells the truth all the time.

Don’t Fool or Just Try to Impress Yourself

What’s the secret to live a long, healthy life? If you’re still looking for a shortcut, a pill, a potion, a vitamin, a supplement, an antioxidant, a detoxification cure (that is more clever than your own liver?!), an antiaging cream, a super workout that in half the time, half the effort will give you double the results, a six-pack in a bottle, it means that you still have not believed in yourself. Similarly to fluency in a foreign language or mastering a musical instrument, health and fitness cannot be faked—appearance can, but it won’t last through the night. What you eat in secrecy, you display in public. Acquiring knowledge changes one the same way epigenetic modifications change genes. How so? Don’t lie to yourself. Don’t listen to people telling you how handsome or pretty and fit you look; don’t listen to that voice in your head because deep inside you don’t want to leave your comfort zone; don’t negotiate, don’t make resolutions, just acknowledge and renounce what you have done in the past. Burn the bridges and your ships and commit to the one issue that matters: your own health. Predictive genetic testing gives you a strong cue of unique and personal connection between your past family history, your current clinical picture (blood tests, disease symptoms, fitness levels) and the genes you carry, which may aid you to resolve future uncertainties. Lifestyle changes based on this personalized background help you realize that it will be a four- to six-month rather than a three-day miracle before you see results in your weight and fitness. If you know that, you can manage your finite willpower better and resist that pizza in the present moment. The secret to longevity genes has finally been unveiled.

LIFESTYLE SPA DEALS

What: Thanyapura Phuket launched of Fit Gene, a cutting-edge scientific endeavor that highlights the strengths and weaknesses of someone’s genetic makeup to enhance sporting performance.  The award-winning sports training and educational facility’s medical team at Thanyapura Health produce a personalized genetic report that determines whether a person is best suited to an endurance or power-based physical activity, or a mixture of both. Knowing this, means a more effective training program can be devised and participants can pursue sports that best match their ability. When: From now until December 31 Where: Thanyapura Phuket How much: THB 17,000 (from retail price THB 24,280) More info: 076 336 000; www.thanyapura.com

What: While the rest of the world only appreciated its flavor, for thousands of years Asian and Polynesian women have been nuts about the secret benefits of coconuts. They discovered that it softens and moisturizes skin, prevents wrinkling and age spots, while forming a protective barrier against all kinds of skin conditions. In a nutshell, this 150-minute treatment begins with a Natural Coconut Body Scrub; then a rich Fresh Coconut Hot Compress Massage nourishes your body, and they finish with a Full Body Coconut Hot Oil Massage. When: From now until September 30 Where: Oasis Spa, all branches How much: THB 3,900++ and the second one at 50 percent off More info: 02 262 2122; res@oasisspa.net

TONI&GUY

Hair Products by JeanFrancois Lazartigue

What: Known internationally as a specialist for hair care treatments, Jean-Francois Lazartigue took created his own products to repair, protect, and embellish hair, such as: the treatment cream shampoo with collagen, the preshampoo cream with shea butter, the vita-cream with milk proteins, and the protective hair milk. When: Ongoing Where: Paris Spa (Alma Link Building, 25 Chidlom Road); Peninsula Plaza (Rajdamri Road); J.F. Lazartigue (Central Chidlom GF) How much: Varies More info: Paris Spa, 02 655 2550, 02 254 8354; Peninsula Plaza, 02 652 2168, 02 652 1279

Omroom

Coconut Nourishing

Celebrating LOFT’s 17th Anniversary

What: TONI&GUY is giving Loft customers a THB 300 voucher for hair dressing services. Just spend THB 2,000 at LOFT and show your bill at TONI&GUY, located on the fifth floor of Siam Discovery. Promotion limited to one voucher per person, per week. When: From now until November 15 Where: Fifth floor, Siam Discovery How much: Varies More info: 02 658 0128

Oasis Spa

Blueprint to Create a Better You

What: Stress might be one of the major health factors your child could face growing up, so giving them a practice which is specifically designed to release stress from the body and mind is a great way to support their long-term health and fitness. Take your children to fun 60-minutes yoga class at Omroon. Age limit: 3–7. When: Every Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Where: Omroom How much: THB 400 or 10 classes for THB 3,600 More info: www.omroom.net

Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas

Thanyapura

Kid’s Yoga

Best of Renewal at Spa Villa

What: Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas Soothe your body, mind, and spirit with their refreshing jasmine rice body scrub (60 minutes) which exfoliates dead cells and removes impurities from the skin. Afterwards, give your body a rest with body massage (60 minutes). When: From now until September 30 Where: Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas How much: THB 3,990 net More info: 032 909 900 september 2014 | 65

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

GETTING INTO THE SPIRIT(S) OF ASEAN Each country has its own national drink. Try them all, but never attempt to compete in their drinking habits with local citizens—you may not get very far.

ver had a glass of good Italian red wine at the GranMonte Vineyard in Thailand? Or a half-pint bottle of warm sake at a sushi bar in Singapore? A bottle of Tanduay rum with Coke chasers in a dingy bar in Zamboanga, Philippines, a margarita at a Mexican restaurant in Bangkok? A cold Beerlao at a street café in Vientiane? A “tuak” in a dirty glass in a longhouse up the Rejang in Sarawak? These are times worth remembering! Unless one is a confirmed teetotaler, or abstains from alcoholic beverages for health or religious reasons, one of the pleasures of travelling around ASEAN

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by Harold Stephens countries these days is sampling the refreshments of each place visited. Granted, as Indonesia and Malaysia, including Borneo, are Islamic nations, they may not have their own vineyards for wine producing and their own brews, but instead rely on European, Southeast Asian, and other international brews to dominate the wine and beer scenes. Local brands like Tiger, Chang, Singha, and Anchor and foreign brands that have established local breweries, such as Guinness, Carlsberg, and Heineken, are extremely popular among the locals, and they are easily found in most supermarkets, pubs, bars, or clubs. For beer lovers, Southeast Asia is a

holiday, and topping the list of countries producing beer is Vietnam, with 46 known microbreweries. Several local breweries have been set up by foreign governments but are run by Vietnamese. There is an excellent Czech brewery very near the U.S. and French embassies. Of the Vietnamese brews, I prefer LaRue, and it is very cheap as well. When I was a young Marine in Old China, we drank Huba Huba vodka, but those days are gone. When it comes to distilled spirits, several ASEAN counties produce a drinkable rum or whiskey, but no country can compare with the Philippines. In a country with an overabundance of

taste, but to get others drunk. The Japanese are great drinkers, but if you are a tourist without a company credit card, forget it. It could cost you USD 200 for a bottle of Chivas Regal Scotch. In Hong Kong I was invited to a party at a posh apartment owned by a man who was a world traveler. He had a collection of spirits from nearly every country in the world. I envied his collection. Then one day I read about a wine dealer who paid something like USD 2,000 for a bottle of rare French wine. How would the wine taste after years in a bottle? To find out was to drink the wine. That got me thinking: a collection of wine is good only if you drink it. It’s true. What good is it to put bottles on a shelf and never sample the contents? It’s not like collecting paintings or sculptures that you can look at and admire. Nor is it like collecting recordings that you can listen to, and still keep. No, with wine or liquor, that’s something else. To enjoy it, you have to drink it. And there goes your collection. And there’s a lot out there to sample. Happy traveling!

Panitharn Doshitz Rattana

Boon Rawd Brewery

sugar cane, just name the sprit and you have it—rum, gin, Scotch, brandy, and all sorts of liquors. Yes, just name it! Say “Mexico” and I can taste Sauza tequila, and when I hear Japanese spoken I can feel the smoothness of Sakura sake, when it’s warm sake. With the Philippines it’s rum, and in Singapore, Hennessy VO at Chinese weddings. And so it goes. When one travels to new and different places, I don’t mean he or she should attempt to imitate the drinking habits of the local citizens of each country visited. One may not get very far. Unless one has had training, one could never compete with the Aussies when it comes to drinking beer. If you are a beer drinker, you really can’t go wrong when you travel. They make some pretty good brew around ASEAN. And after all, the world has had a long experience brewing beer. Drawings on temple walls show the early Sumerians entertaining themselves with beer at public functions. The Germans perfected the technique and passed it on to the rest of the world, including the Far East. Before the First World War, Germany occupied Tsingtao on the Shantung Peninsula in China. Today, Tsingtao beer is the best in China. The brewers learned the trade from the Germans. And, for certain, each country around the world seems to boast about its own product. Some countries, like Mexico, a nation of 55 million, produce more than 25 brands of beer. Which is the best? Ask four people and you get four different answers. Singapore and Malaysia have Tiger and Anchor, and Indonesia it’s Bintang. Many countries in Southeast Asia produce an illegal “poor man’s” beer called toddy, extracted from the central part of the young stem of a coconut palm. The village of Tenganan on Bali is famous for its “tuk bayu,” or palm beer. In a longhouse on Borneo it’s “tuak.” Most countries in the world have their own national drink. In Thailand, of course, it’s Mekong. While in Pattaya and the Russian community there it’s Stolichnaya vodka, France has her cognac and Germany, schnapps. The Chinese of Singapore are the world’s largest consumers per capita of Hennessy cognac. If you go there and are invited to a Chinese wedding, you’ll know what I mean. The Chinese drink not for

september 2014 | 69

WINE&DINE NEWS

NOT TO BE MISSED: 15TH ANNUAL WORLD GOURMET FESTIVAL IN BANGKOK The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok welcomes chefs, winemakers, and food experts from around the globe for a celebration of great cuisine and wine from September 1 to 7. by Coco Lavender

Chef Akrame Benallal (A.B.)

angkok will become once again a melting pot for world cuisine, when seven master chefs from six different countries take part in the World Gourmet Festival, a seven-day celebration that will take place from September 1 to 7, at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. Once again this year, the festival supports HRH Princess Soamsawali's “Save A Child's Life from AIDS” project, under the auspices of the Thai Red Cross Society. THB 600 from the price of every World Gourmet dinner ticket, as well as proceeds from the World Gourmet live auction, will be donated to this charity. More information: www.fourseasons.com

Chef James Viles (J.V.) Chef James Syhabout (J.S.)

Chef João Rodrigues (J.R.)

Chef Paolo Casagrande (P.C.)

Chef Thierry Dufroux (T.D.)

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Chef Hideaki Sato (H.S.)

Participating Chefs ◊ Chef Akrame Benallal (A.B.) from two Michelin-starred Akrame (●www.akrame.com), Paris, France ◊ Chef Paolo Casagrande (P.C.) from two Michelin-starred Lasarte Restaurante (●www.restaurantlasarte.com/en), Barcelona, Spain ◊ Chef Thierry Dufroux (T.D.) from Bistrot Belhara (●www.bistrotbelhara.com), Paris, France ◊ Chef João Rodrigues (J.R.) from one Michelin-starred Feitoria (●www.altishotels.com/EN/HotelAltisBelem/Feitoria-Restaurant) Lisbon, Portugal ◊ Chef Hideaki Sato (H.S.) from two Michelin-starred Tenku RyuGin (●www.ryugin.com.hk/index_e.php), Hong Kong, which this year made it on to the coveted San Pellegrino list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants ◊ Chef James Syhabout (J.S.) from one Michelin-starred Commis (●www.commisrestaurant.com), Oakland, California, USA ◊ Chef James Viles (J.V.) from two-hatted Biota Dining (●www.biotadining.com), Bowral, NSW, Australia

What the Chefs Have to Say —What are you the most excited about with regards to participating in this year’s World Gourmet Festival? A.B.: The project itself. What really motivates me is its charitable purpose. I like taking the time and giving time to causes that are worth it. P.C.: I’m really excited about joining the festival because it joins charity and gastronomy together. I like to help support such events. T.D.: It is a great honor for me to be chosen to represent French gastronomy at this year’s World Gourmet Festival. I am particularly thrilled to spend a week in Bangkok and discover new products in its floating markets. J.R.: To visit this beautiful country, learn about the culture, to be part of the event itself, and to meet other chefs. H.S.: I respect Thai culture, food and people. And I’m most excited to have this opportunity to share the Ryugin experience with Thai people. J.S.: I am just very thrilled to be cooking “back home” after 20 years since my last visit to Thailand. J.V.: It is a wonderful initiative that we are honored to be involved in. I am excited about using the abundance of fresh botanics available in Thailand, and about seeing and using new ingredients. —What is the one dish you’ll be preparing that visitors to the festival shouldn’t miss? A.B.: The bamboo charcoal pineapple. P.C.: The egg. It’s a really simple plate, with simple ingredients, but always surprising in my restaurant. J.R.: Scarlet shrimp from the Algarve with cucumber and nasturtium.

H.S.: “Peach Candy” because if a chef’s recommended dish comes last, customers can keep their expectations until the end of the meal! J.S.: I love egg dishes. We are going to do an egg with potato and sweet and savory spices. J.V.: One of the dishes we will be making is a dish based on smoke, local fish roe, and lettuce. —Describe your cooking philosophy. A.B.: My cooking is very personal, it has its own identity, it’s instinct-driven and with a lot of feelings. P.C.: My philosophy in the kitchen is working and searching all the time for the best product and, when you get, respect it. Another really important part is teamwork—your team supports you and shares all that happens and all that you create in the kitchen. T.D.: I love simple cooking based on quality products, perfect cooking time, and good seasoning. The nature of the product, its color, taste, and texture should be enhanced, and I see my role as a magnifier. J.R.: I like to use local products from small producers, everything organic, and a strong Portuguese cultural influence with a twist. My cuisine is all very natural in order to keep the flavors the most authentic as possible. H.S.: Pure, simple, and seasonal—these three words describe my cuisine best, and Japanese cuisine as well. I always try to bring out the pure taste, so I choose simple ways of cooking and presentation. J.S.: Naturalistic and minimal, with a focus on concentrating and extracting natural flavors and aromas. J.V.: We rely on Mother Nature to guide us in what we do and how we think; our food is inspired by nature and tells a story of connection.

—Are there any key ingredients you’ll be focusing on for this year’s festival? A.B.: No, my menu will be full of surprises… P.C.: Iberian presa. I will come from Spain and I feel I have to showcase a product like this. J.R.: For sure, the fish and the seafood. H.S.: Japanese vegetables and fruits. Of course, Japan is famous for its seafood, but vegetables such as tomatoes, eggplant, and sweet corn are of very high quality. In this event, I use Japanese peaches that have such a nice fragrance. J.S.: I am going to try to use a lot of the native ingredients in Thailand as that is a part of who I am and where I am cooking at the event, but these will be presented in the way we cook at Commis. J.V.: We will be focusing on the local ingredients of Thailand. I want to maintain our philosophy of using ingredients native to their lands. —What do you never travel without? A.B.: My mobile phone, and my cooking pliers to dress up plates. P.C.: I’m always traveling with open eyes, to learn what I try and see around the world, recipes, ingredients, traditions, etc. T.D.: I always slip piment d’Espelette and a pala racquet into my luggage. The first to spice up my dishes, and the second to play pelote. Both are symbolic of the Pays Basque, the Southwest region of France, which I am especially fond of. J.R.: A Moleskine and a pen for taking notes. H.S.: Nothing in particular. Just experience, technique, and taste. J.S.: I never travel without flip-flops or sandals. Even if I were to travel to the Netherlands in the winter, for sure you would see a pair of sandals in my luggage. J.V.: My iPhone, camera, access to email, and connection to the world. september 2014 | 71

Harrods The Plantation Rooms

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

A TASTE OF THE OLD EMPIRE Serving up everything from classic beef Wellington to creative foie gras Benedict, Harrod’s The Plantation Rooms will surprise you with more than just English tea.

by Thomas Sturrock

here is an immediately identifiable Englishness about the Harrods-branded The Plantation Rooms at Central Embassy (●2F Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd; 092 225 4052). The white décor and demure detailing recall the kind of tea rooms you’ll find skirting Hyde Park and Knightsbridge in London, all transported to the middle of Bangkok, overlooking Sukhumvit.

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The menu caters to those seeking a taste of old-school Britannia, while also acknowledging the Thai appetite for all-day brunch. Because, let’s face it, why shouldn’t you be able to get a foie gras Benedict at 4 p.m.? A glance at the list of specialty teas reveals some truly exotic brews: try the Sri Lankan Idulgashinna (THB 280) or the organic chamomile flowers from Egypt (THB 240). The perfumes alone are far more interesting than your run-of-the-mill English Breakfast blend. If you’re after something stronger, the sangria blends (THB 165) are truly first-rate, dialing down the sugar content in favor of crisp, refreshing flavors. The pearl sangria combines green apple, cloves, star anise, cardamom, cinnamon, fresh orange, and white wine, while the ruby sangria uses fresh strawberry and red wine. After wetting your whistle, order one of the high-tea sets, which combine savory and sweet. For example, the Plantation Rooms Set (THB 1299 for two people) begins with a deluxe pan-seared foie gras with truffle scone before proceeding to a Canadian lobster roll and Scottish

smoked salmon rosette. The truffle scone is particularly rich, powerfully flavorful in combination with the foie gras. There is a commitment to elegance throughout, and this is borne out further in the selection of miniature British sweets, like the bite-sized Eton mess, and traditional scones. Once the tea set is cleared and the focus turns to mains, its clear that The Plantation Rooms is also willing to present the heartier British staples—it’s not all tea and scones and miniature sweets. In particular, the fish filet and chips (THB 490) is a straightforward but well-executed example of that beloved British favorite, beer-battered cod served with french fries, mushy peas and tartar sauce. The crispy exterior of the beef Wellington (THB 650) is particularly satisfying, flaking away to reveal Australian beef tenderloin with foie gras and a Madeira sauce that adds a delightful kick. This is rich food that recalls an earlier era of British food before all the bells and whistles of modern gastronomy. Whether you visit for a high tea, quick brunch or long lunch, The Plantation Rooms channels what could perhaps be described as “colonial cuisine” with real panache and attention to detail.

Dressed

WINE&DINE RESTAURANTS

EMPIRE TOWER GETS DRESSED The third branch of this international healthy food chain opened up in Bangkok.

s the city’s food scene gets savvier, Bangkokians are increasingly aware of not only where they are eating and who with, but what they are actually putting into their bodies. Enter Dressed Empire Tower (●2/F, Empire Tower, 195 Sathorn Tai Road, Sathorn, Bangkok, BTS Chong Nonsi; 02 658 6688; www.facebook. com/DressedThailand), a super-healthconscious café concept that originated from Atlanta, in the U.S., and has now found its way through Hong Kong and Taiwan to Thailand. They offer “fresh salads, artisan sandwiches, panini, wraps, pastas, soups, and smoothies” in a straightforward take on the sandwich bar that is still curiously under-realized in Bangkok. While the concept is not new, don’t be fooled by its pedestrian predecessors. Part of the secret to elevating the status of the style of eatery is Exec Chef Justin Smolev, the prime mover of the project. Far from a kitchen hand, he trained in Michelin-starred restaurants before turning his expertise to the deli

format. Hence, Dressed takes the concept to new heights with extended menu choices, premium ingredients, health awareness, and heightened flavors. As a franchise, the easy-handling menu is broken up into salads (that are also available in wraps), sandwiches, panini, pasta, and smoothies. While the menu features many recommendations, discerning diners can create their own meals from the large range of ingredients

Dressed

by Richard Mcleish

tantalizingly displayed behind a glass counter. For regional variety, additions to the local menu include flaxseed, quinoa, goji berries and quail eggs as well as new dressings. Go-to menu items include the signature seared tuna salad (THB 349) – a generous plate of greens with dressing and generous lightly seared slices of pepperrolled tuna. Chili lime chicken panini (THB 159) is a juicy toasted sandwich with mozzarella that is perfect for lunch. Penne arrabbiata with sundried tomatoes (THB 199) is a tangy take on the classic that also works well. Wash down your meal with a goodness-packed smoothie, such as ginger pear (THB 79 small, THB 129 large) or mango tango (THB 89, THB 129). The Empire Tower branch—currently one of three in Bangkok—is conveniently positioned near the entrance to the building from the BTS raised walkway access. The good use of space takes in an outdoor area with comfortable seating for around 25 diners, with cooling equipment on the way for the hotter months (as well as another twelve chairs inside the busier arcade). Dressed Empire Tower has quickly endeared itself to the nearby workers in the area’s high density offices, many of whom were present at our lunchtime visit. But it has also attracted the immediate attention of health-conscious customers of Virgin Gym, which lies just down the corridor. We hear collaboration between the two outlets is in the pipeline, which sounds like a healthy win-win for the city. Open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Other branches: The Mercury Ville and Siam Paragon.

september 2014 | 73

Dusit Thani Hua Hin

The Okura Prestige Bangkok (White Space Conflict)

WINE&DINE DINING SPECIALS

Ninth Culinary Classics: The Trinity Trio

What: Dusit Thani Hua Hin presents an evening of music and dining with their ninth series of Culinary Classics. The up-and-coming Trinity Trio of Korean-born New Zealand residents Tina Kim on piano, Stella Kim on violin, and Sally Kim on violoncello, will perform an eclectic mix with their take on Mendelssohn’s classic Piano Trio No. 2 in C Minor, alongside favorite modern compositions in Gareth Farr’s Ahi and Paul Schoenfeld’s Café Music. When: September 5, registration starts at 6 p.m., concert starts at 6:30 p.m. Where: Napalai Ballroom, Dusit Thani Hua Hin How much: Ticket only THB 500 net; ticket including post-concert Thai Market Night buffet dinner: THB 1,400 net; ticket including post-concert Italian four-course set dinner: THB 1,600 net. All tickets include one complimentary drink during the preconcert reception or the intermission. More info: 032 442 100; dthhfb@dusit.com

Art Di’Wine Dinner at EVE Restaurant

What: Hansar Bangkok will hold a unique art and wine to show its love for culture and gastronomy. The “Art Di’Wine” dinner will offer the opportunity of tasting a five-course menu specially prepared by chef Charles Christiaens and paired with an selection of fine wines, while watching live painting and an exhibition by Sath, to the rhythm of live music by Yves Baron & Friends. When: September 26 from 7 p.m. onward Where: EVE, Hansar Bangkok How much: THB 3,500 ++ More info: 02 209 1234; reservations@hansarbangkok.com

Healthy Choices for a Vegetarian Week

What: Chefs at The Okura Prestige Bangkok are pushing the boundaries of creative vegetarian cooking as the hotel prepares to celebrate Vegetarian Food Week. At Yamazato, master chef Shigeru Hagiwara’s vegetarian dishes feature traditional vegetables, seasonings and sauces fresh from Japan. À la carte dishes include handmade edamame sesame tofu, avocado sushi roll, and more. Dishes of Up&Above’s set menu include massaman curry with mock chicken, red curry with mock duck, and noodles with black soya sauce and shrimps. When: September 24 to October 2, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Where: The Okura Prestige Bangkok How much: Dishes at Yamazato start at THB 200++; set menu at Up & Above at THB 1,000-1,200++ per set More info: 02 687 9000; fb@okurabangkok.com

What: To celebrate Benihana’s 50th anniversary worldwide, and 22nd in Thailand, the Japanese steakhouse at Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa is dishing up a Beni Burger special and artistic Teppan Shushi Set Menu. The Beni Burger special offers three succulent choices; the Beni Beef Burger at THB 650++, the Beni Fish Burger at THB 550++, and the Beni Mushroom Burger at THB 380++. The Teppanyaki Sushi special begins with a Benihana onion soup and a Benihana salad as a appetizer. Guests then enjoy prime meat, foie gras, unagi, scallop, and salmon, to be sliced and seared by a master Japanese chef at the sizzling teppanyaki table, around which guests are seated. Dessert options also available. When: From now until December 30 from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch, and from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. for dinner. Where: Benihana, Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa How much: For Beni Burger, see above; Teppanyaki Sushi special at THB 1,100++ More info: 02 476 0022 ext. 1416; riversidedining@anantara.com; www.bangkokriverdining.com

LOOKEAST | WINE & DINE

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa

Benihana’s 50th Anniversary Special Celebration Offer

Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

Authentic Roasted Duck at InAzia

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok’s First-Ever Collection of Luxury Mooncakes

Dining in Style in a Lush Tropical Garden Café

What: Rayavadee and Tamarind Village are pleased to introduce their sister property in Bangkok,  99 Rest Backyard Café, located just 15 minutes from Thong Lor (Sukhumvit 55). At 99 Rest Backyard Café, guests dine indoors in a welcoming ambience with views onto the restaurant’s lush, green surroundings, or al fresco in the “backyard café” garden. An exciting new menu offering even more choices and a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients, hand-picked local produce, and a creative selection of cocktails keep guests visiting. When: Daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Where: 99 Rest Backyard Café How much: Varies More info: 02 300 4339

What: To celebrate the launch of a fresh new menu and all new look courtyard at the Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant, The Tongsai Bay's owners Saisiri and Thanakorn Hoontrakul and general manager Leisa Kenny hosted a lavish dinner. The culinary delights created by executive chef Robert Mujagic and senior sous chef Kak (Jaturan Ounnahasuwan) feature authentic Thai cuisine, with many Southern Thai favourites. When: Ongoing Where: Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant, The Tongsai Bay How much: Varies More info: 02 381 8774

The Tongai Bay

New Menu at Chef Chom’s Thai Restaurant

What: To celebrate this year’s MidAutumn Festival, Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok launched its very first collection of luxury mooncakes. Presented in a beautiful coffee and gold gift box featuring a lotus design inspired by the hotel lobby’s ceiling murals, the mooncakes are available to purchase in packs of four and nine pieces, and feature four different flavors: traditional lotus paste with salted egg yolk, durian with salted egg yolk, jujube with salted egg yolk, mixed fruit and nut When: From now until September 10 Where: Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok How much: THB 888 for a box of four pieces; THB 1,988.00 for a box of nine pieces More info: 02 126 8866; dining. bangkok@fourseasons.com SEPTEMBER 2014 | 75

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok

What: Experience China’s most loved dish with InAzia’s Roasted Duck Special. The Indo-Chinese inspired Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa is offering a special three-courses set menu serving the crispy duck skin wrapped in thin pancakes; its legs simmered in aromatic soup, and the succulent breast meat either cooked in Panaeng curry sauce or wok-fried with black pepper and garlic. It is the perfect dish to share for two. InAzia is located on the first floor, offering indoor and al fresco seating. The adjoining 10° Wine Cellar holds a fine selection of champagnes, Old, and New World Wines. When: Daily from now until September 30 everyday from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Where: InAzia, Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa How much: Varies More info: 032 708 000 ext. 4303; fb.huahin@sheraton.com

Hi-So Sofitel So Bangkok

Presenting the Bonny Honey from the Plan Bee Project

Amari Pattaya presented its latest CSR project called “Plan Bee.” The objective of this project is the conservation of natural biodiversity in a bid to save the Asian honeybee (Apis Cerena) from extinction. The project started rural beekeeping at Baan Khao Kra (Krabi province) and has just harvested the first batch of pure natural honey to be used in ONYX hotels. Amari Pattaya is supporting Plan Bee with special drinks at the ICE Bar within the Ocean Tower, like with the “Bonny Honey,” which is made from bananas, vanilla ice cream, milk and, of course, honey from Plan Bee. When: Ongoing Where: ICE Bar, Amari Pattaya How much: Varies More info: www.amari.com

So Bring Me Back Party at Hi-So Sofitel So Bangkok

What: Dusit Thani Bangkok introduced its new TWG mocktails at Lobby Lounge. The refreshing tea mocktail selections include Moroccan Mentha Iced Tea, Pink Flamingo Iced Tea, Mojito Iced Tea, and Earl Grey Tea-Trus. When: Daily from now until October 31, from 8 a.m. until midnight Where: Lobby Lounge, Dusit Thani Bangkok How much: THB 220++ per glass More info: 02 200 9000 ext. 2998; dtbkfblb@dusit.com

Lookeast | wine & dine

Timeless Cocktails at amBar Rooftop Bar

What: This year, amBar gets back to the basics with world’s renowned vintage cocktails. On top of the five signature cocktails which consist of the all-time favorite flavors like Mojito, Bloody Mary, Pina Colada, Margarita, and Caipirinha, amBar is presents “Timeless Cocktails” in a different theme for every month throughout 2014. Now the choice is yours. When: Ongoing Where: amBar, Four Points by Sheraton How much: Two for THB 300 More info: 02 309 3201; www.facebook. com/amBarBangkok

Hansar Samui

Dusit Thani Bangkok

Four Points by Sheraton

What: Every second Thursday of the month, visit HI-SO for an ultimate time travel with special guest DJ mixing up the original and famous hits from the 80s and 90s, and with an amazing view overlooking the skyline of Bangkok. When: September 11 Where: Mondo, Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok How much: Free entry from 9 p.m. to 10 p.m. More info: 02 624 0000; www.facebook.com/HiltonSukhumvit

TWG Mocktails at Lobby Lounge

Amari Pattaya

WINE&DINE BAR SPECIALS

Bean Bag Chillin’

What: Hansar Samui has added plush bean bags to relax in while watching sunset and enjoying the food and beverage selections on offer. In addition to cocktails, boutique wines, champagnes and beers, visitors can order from the Bar Bites menu which offers an array of snacks including Thai favorites, a Charcuterie selection, and imported artisanal cheeses. When: Daily from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Where: Hansar Samui How much: Varies More info: 077 245 511, www.hansarsamui.com

WINE&DINE INTERVIEW

“FIVE YEARS AGO IT WAS ALL ABOUT WINE BARS, NOW IT’S BECOMING COCKTAILS.” Mixologist Joseph Boroski in an interview with Lookeast.

oseph Boroski, Bangkok’s bestknown and most “widely drunk” cocktail master, pauses, weighing his answer carefully. When you’ve designed thousands of cocktails and opened several hundred bars worldwide, deciding on one’s favorite drink is not straightforward. “It depends on what I’m doing, where I am, who’s making,” he insists. Finally, after having the parameters narrowed—he’s making the drink, late on a Saturday night after a busy shift behind the bar—Boroski settles on a Sazerac, a bartenders’ favorite combining rye whiskey with a dash of absinthe and bitters. “One or two pieces of ice, and just a touch of absinthe, just so you can feel it at the end of the tongue,” Boroski says. “But if I go to a bar and I see them using fresh ingredients, I’ll get a sour or a margarita or something like that. I love a Negroni as well.” Perhaps it’s this preference for the classics that has helped Boroski make such an indelible mark on Bangkok’s cocktail culture, which has become rapidly more sophisticated in recent years. Of course, there are plenty of other barmen working in Bangkok, but few as ubiquitously as

Bar School

by Thomas Sturrock

Boroski, who has designed drinks at many of the city’s more influential drinking venues, such as W Hotel’s Woo Bar, Quince, and Maggie Choo’s. These places are among the standard bearers for proper drinks in Bangkok—proper Boroski drinks, as it turns out. No longer content with educating drinkers at other people’s bars, Boroski has now opened his own place, a hidden, under-the-radar den in the backstreets of Thong Lor, with a “secret bar” concept. Designed by Ashley Sutton, the place is low-lit and decked out in dark wood with some exquisite touches; the polished copper mixing tools, the hard-carved decorations on the cupboards behind the bar and the butterfly mobile suspended from the vaulted ceiling. In the bathrooms, an NPR-style radio broadcast offers tidbits of information about classic cocktails. “I do a lot of vintage drinks here because I think, in this environment, it’s nice to have the classics,” Boroski says, describing his preferred style. “I do a lot with fresh ingredients, but there’s an element of classic, traditional cocktail making.” But there’s no sign out the front, no effort to promote the bar and no menu.

Instead, you tell the knowledgeable bar staff what you like and they take it from there. The first offering is a vodka, garnished with clementine lime and butterfly flower syrup, which has a similar color and tart taste to pink grapefruit. It doesn’t have a name, but it’s excellent, slightly sour and very refreshing. Later, there’s a tweaked Old Fashioned, using Antica Formula vermouth and Rittenhouse rye whiskey, laced with orange and rosemary syrup. It’s got all the punch of an Old Fashioned but less of the sweetness that comes with bourbon, and the rosemary offset is inspired. Boroski is, of course, pleased to see Bangkok becoming more adventurous when it comes to cocktail culture, but he remains wary of fads. In any rush to embrace the latest new thing, tackiness can sometimes masquerade as cool. But Boroski is in a unique position to identify drinking trends and separate those that will stand the test of time from those destined to come and go. “I have a good sense of what’s lasting and solid as opposed to what’s fashionable,” he says. “I try to keep those things out if I don’t think they will be around for a long time.” Certainly, Boroski has ridden the upward trajectory of Bangkok’s appetite for a well-made drink. “Right now, it’s improving much faster than it has before,” he says. “We’ve seen a transition from Johnnie Walker and a mixer, basically blended whiskeys and soda, moving toward white spirits and classic cocktail culture driven by premium ingredients.” “Five years ago it was all about wine bars, but now it’s becoming cocktails. I just had four Thai people come in and ask for tequila cocktails. That would have been unheard of because most Thai people were just familiar with bad tequila.”

september 2014 | 77

WINE&DINE THE OENOPHILE

KEEP THE WINE FLOWING Drinking wine in Bangkok is no longer a passing trend—it’s established. Check out these places to have a glass, a bottle, or a free-flow evening centered on this grape elixir. by Nadia Willan

And the wine keeps flowing in more wonderful venues across the city …

is also a premium wine buffet at THB 1,050–1,300++. If you really want to push the boat out, unlimited premium sparkling wines and wine cocktails are available for THB 1,500–1,800++. Each wine buffet comes with a plate of imported cold cuts and cheese for every two guests. The wine free-flows every day between 5:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m.

Vie Lounge @ Vie Hotel (●117/39-

40 Phaya Thai Road, Ratchathewi; 02 309 3939; www.viehotelbangkok.com) In the lobby of this MGallery Collection boutique hotel, the space is relaxed and comfortable, with the first Friday of the month offering a three-hour Wine Society event between 6:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. for THB 750++, with four quality reds and four whites. There is also a fantastic Mediterranean tapas table in the center, with a cheese board and some Thai snacks, too. Plus, there’s a wine buffet with canapés served every day for THB 550++ between 6 p.m. and 9 p.m.

Rendezvous @ The Landmark

(●138 Sukhumvit Road; 02 254 0404; www.landmarkbangkok.com) A good Sukhumvit location, enjoy a lobbylevel wine buffet on Fridays and Saturdays between 5:30 p.m. and 9 p.m., and a wide selection of New and Old World reds and whites to savor for THB 650++. Tapas are also included with cheese and snacks to nibble between sips and glasses.

Lookeast | wine & dine

The Nest @ LeFenix Hotel

W Terrace @W Bangkok

(●106 North Sathorn Road, Silom; 02 344 4000, www.whotelbangkok.com) Chic and sleek, this second-floor bar in the trendy Sathorn neighborhood has a cool vibe, with mid-range to high-end wine buffet choices, starting at THB 550++ for two hours of free-flowing wine, or THB 700++ for three hours. Unlimited sparkling wines and wine cocktails are on offer for THB 700++ and THB 1000++ for two and three hours, respectively, and there

Sambal Bar & Grill @ Royal Orchid Sheraton (●2 Charoen

Krung 30, Riverside; 02 266 9214; www. royalorchidsheraton.com) Gourmet cheese and free-flowing wine for THB 599++ from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. monthly on Friday, with this month’s event held September 19.

Indulge @ Sukhumvit Suites

(●403–403/1, 407/1 Sukhumvit Road (between Sukhumvit 21 and 23); 02 661 7262; www.ssukhumvitsuites.com) Sip wine on Wednesdays with THB 100 glasses of wine, THB 500 bottles, and tapas from 5 p.m. to 10 pm.

The Nest @ LeFenix Hotel

(●33 Sukhumvit 11; 02 305 4000; www. thenestbangkok.com) Tuesday night al fresco rooftop wine celebration with resident DJs, 20 percent off bottles, and THB 200 for wine by the glass.

The Living Room @ Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (●250

Sukhumvit Road; 02 649 8000; www. sheratongrandesukhumvit.com) Every evening between 8 p.m. and midnight, enjoy live jazz and free-flowing selected wines for THB 1,200++. The Bangkok wine buffet is definitely an event to raise a glass to!

The Living Room @ Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Sambal Bar & Grill @ Royal Orchid Sheraton

W Terrace @W Bangkok

here’s no doubt about it, with an ever-increasing flow of wine into Bangkok, the city’s bars and restaurants are awash with blackberry bouquets, rich reds, and whimsical whites, not to mention fruity fizz. Not only has wine become a sensation seemingly overnight, but drinking wine in Bangkok has become a “must-do,” a veritable art form of impressive imbibing. And Bangkok, being the vibrant city that it is, has turned this practice into a wonderful vintage-themed phenomenon: a freeflowing wine buffet. While luxury hotels have been topping up wine glasses with free-flow Sunday brunches for years, a growing number of venues are pushing the food to one side and simply serving up some great wines.

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