Low Season Traveller - Issue 6 by Low Season Traveller

TRAVELLER LOW S E A SON

Issue 6 November 2023

LOW SEASON PARIS AT ‘ELLA’ SHORT NOTICE Simon Donohue’s guide to a last-minute long weekend in Paris.

MEET THE LOW SEASON TRAVELLERS Find out more about Bryony Simcox and George Webster’s low season travels.

HEMINGWAY’S CUBA

Lisa TE Sonne, our Editor-at-Large, explores Ernest Hemingway’s Cuba favourites.

M AGA Z INE

FEATURED DESTINATIONS:

GREENLAND ZIMBABWE CUBA PITTSBURGH SEYCHELLES ZÜRICH AND MUCH MORE...

? n e p p a h t i e d a m o h W Meet the team Featured and Destinations contributors

Publishing

Publisher and CEO at Low Season Traveller Ged is the founder and CEO of Low Season Traveller; the world’s first organisation completely dedicated to the promotion of travel during the off-peak seasons in each destination as a way to alleviate the growing problem of over-tourism. A passionate advocate of the advantages of tourism, Ged has spent his entire career working with leading travel and tourism organisations.

Contributors Claire French

Ryan Maley

Content Development, Community Manager & Editor, Low Season Traveller Ryan is our Content Development and Community Manager, as well as Editor of the Low Season Traveller Magazine. Ryan has worked in the travel industry for almost a decade, developing content and campaigns in his home city of Manchester, UK. He is passionate about sustainable travel, and believes that travel should be accessible to all as it truly makes for a more well-rounded and culturally intelligent society.

Chris is a member of the LST Advisory Board and is also the Founder & Executive Chairman of The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage. With more than 30 years’ experience in international tourism, Chris is a regular speaker at high profile international events and provides insights to leading news media channels such as BBC World News Asia Business Report.

Simon Donohue

Warren Pearson

Bryony Simcox & George Webster Bryony Simcox and George Webster make cinematic experiences. Co-founders of videography studio Broaden, they’re passionate about the arts, sustainability and travel. Their work has taken them from Australia to Spain to Manchester, and they are recent slow-travel enthusiasts.

Editor-at-Large

An award-winning writer who explored seven continents, dove many seas, and wrote for airline, Time-Life, and National Geographic media. Her books include “My Adventures” and “The Great Outdoors” for Quarto Publishers. Wrote for Oscar-winning and Emmy-winning projects. Co-founder- CharityChecks.org; member of Space.com’s launch team and The Explorers Club.

Tony Hallwood

Chris Flynn

Claire has crossed the globe, living and working on 6 continents. She’s now working on Low Season Traveller feature pieces and dreaming of her next adventure from her narrow boat home on a quiet stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, where it seems to be permanently low season.

Simon has travelled extensively for work and pleasure, writing travel and automotive road test reviews for the UK’s biggest regional newspaper. Following a career in mainstream journalism, he switched to communications, PR and content, developing a passion for photography and film. He is proud to have worked as the first ever content curator with a UK destination management organisation.

Lisa TE Sonne

Warren is a pan-African safari guide whose work experience extends from guiding to managing lodges, remote luxury bush camps, mineral exploration camps as well as working in disaster management and training. He has explored areas such as the Eastern Congo, Chad, Rwanda and many other regions in Africa. Warren has also spent time working for Animal Planet as well as National Geographic on different projects through Southern Africa.

Business Development Director

Tony’s career has covered senior director roles for major travel companies including SAGA, Cosmos, Airtours and My Travel. Tony’s strengths are building strong partnerships with airlines, tour operators and national tourism partners alongside maximising his extensive PR and media experience to promote a wide range of new destinations, routes and services.

Harriet Akinyi Harriet Akinyi is a Kenyan travel journalist and storyteller based in Nairobi, who’s on a mission to showcase the beauty of Africa’s tourism and conservation scene. In her seven years of travel writing, Harriet has toured several countries in Africa and her work has been featured in renowned publications both locally and internationally. You can follow Harriet’s travels on Instagram and LinkedIn at Harriet Owalla.

Chris McNicholl

Robert Isenberg Robert is a writer and multimedia producer based in coastal New England. His books include The Green Season, about the two years he spent as a journalist in Costa Rica. He loves cycling and filmmaking, especially when he can do both simultaneously. Visit him at robertisenberg.net.

Chris is a designer with over 20 years experience in the design industry. Working with some of the biggest brands on the planet in top studios and publications in London. Chris has travelled extensively and worked with Low Season Travellor from the start. Now based in New Zealand he runs Overflowcreative.co.nz.

Advertising: Get in touch with Tony Hallwood at: Tony@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

Ged Brown

Low Season Traveller

Editor’s note

I’m delighted to publish our winter edition of the magazine, which as always is packed with fantastic featured destinations, travellers’ stories, and inspiration for low season trips. Since the last edition, I have been exploring more of Spain, with visits to Málaga city and Girona before travelling to A Coruña for the WOMEX conference, which will be heading to Manchester for 2024, bringing the world’s music industry to a city with music in its DNA. A quick family visit to Whitby, one of my favourite places in the UK, was a time to rest and recuperate before the festive season really kicks in! I am currently writing from Tromsø in northern Norway, the world’s northernmost university city and one well within the Arctic Circle, where I’ve just celebrated my 30th birthday under the Northern Lights surrounded by husky dogs on the island of Kvaløya. In this edition, we have some brilliant featured destinations for travel in the winter period, including Greenland, Zimbabwe, Cuba, Pittsburgh, Seychelles, and Zurich. We also have some great contributions, including Simon Donhue’s thoughts on his last-minute low season Paris trip in January after plans to visit Iceland were postponed. Lisa TE Sonne, our Editorat-Large, takes our readers on a trip to Cuba through Ernest Hemingway’s old haunts. Meanwhile Harriet Akinyi discusses

low season experiences in Kenya’s Maasai Mara, and Warren Pearson reflects on a visit to the Republic of Congo’s OdzalaKokoua National Park. In this edition I also talk to Bryony Simcox and George Webster of video production Broaden, about their road trip from England to Chile that got curtailed due to Covid, and how they developed their recent passion for overlanding. I’d like to once again thank our readers for their valued input and passion whilst sharing our low season travel journey. If you have an idea for a feature for a future edition of the magazine, I’d love to hear from you on the email below. Until next time,

Ryan Maley Editor ryan@lowseasontraveller.com

Contribute to Low Season Traveller Magazine We’re looking to grow our team of amazing contributors that are sharing their top tips and best bits of low season travel in LST Magazine. If you’re an avid writer, traveller and are passionate about sustainable travel and combating the issue of over tourism, we’d love to hear from you! Get in touch at editor@lowseasontraveller.com

Low Season Traveller

Hello, and a warm welcome to the sixth edition of the Low Season Traveller Magazine.

Contents Greenland

Dublin

UK Paris Zürich

Pittsburgh

Tabasco and Veracruz, Mexico

Cuba

Odzala-Kokoua National Park

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Low Season Traveller

Featured destination

Low season journey Podcast Cultural heritage

Contributors..............................................................................02

Hemingway’s Cuba....................................................................39

Note from the Editor.................................................................03

Featured destination: Pittsburgh.............................................45

Contents...................................................................................... 05

Low Season in Maasai Mara.....................................................51

Featured Photograph................................................................ 07

Featured destination: Seychelles............................................57

Featured destination: Greenland.............................................09

Odzala-Kokoua National Park.................................................63

Low Season Paris.......................................................................15

Featured destination: Zürich....................................................69

Featured destination: Zimbabwe............................................21

Cultural Heritage........................................................................75

Meet the Low Season Travellers..............................................27

Top 5 travel podcasts................................................................81

Featured destination: Cuba......................................................33

Bosnia and Herzegovina Mtskheta, Georgia

Yonaguni, Japan India Goa Maasai Mara Seychelles

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Zimbabawe

Low Season Traveller

Featured Photograph

Wandering the sleepy streets of the small villages that make up the mountainous region of La Alpujarra in Granada, Spain, you’re much more likely to see the local cats than the local humans. This one was my favourite, perched up high amongst the plants and cacti, keeping an eye out for any signs of life below. Do you have a photo that you think captures the essence of low season travel? Email editor@lowseasontraveller.com for an opportunity to feature in a future edition.

Low Season Traveller

Photo by: Ryan Maley

Featured Destination: Greenland

GREENLAND Icebergs, Fjords and Fish in the Arctic Circle

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: February-March, September-November

9 Kangamiut village, Greenland

Featured Destination: Greenland

By Claire French

The huge northern nation is covered by an ice sheet the size of Western Europe leaving just the fjord riven edges of the 2 million square kilometre land mass accessible for the hardy population of 55,000 Inuits, Danes and a few intrepid

expats. Adventurous travellers are also increasingly drawn to explore one of the last great wildernesses on earth. The summer months with long hours for hiking, sailing and enjoying the midnight sun are the most popular by far, with a high price tag attached to limited hotel offerings. In contrast, cold and dark December and January see barely any daylight at all. The low season on the shoulder months of mid-September to early November and then February to March however offer amazing opportunities to enjoy some unique experiences. While Greenland is never going to be a budget destination, these are the periods you’ll get the best value for your cash and really connect with the locals. Having said that, don’t just rock up with a Lonely Planet and snow gear and be ready for adventure. A trip to Greenland requires carefully planning and advance booking. With no roads connecting the disparate towns, journeys are made by plane, helicopter or the popular coastal ferry service. A good bet is to choose a base and pre-book your excursions depending on your preferences and local conditions.

Low Season Traveller

Wrapped in a warm blanket and sipping on whiskey made from glacial ice you gaze at the Northern Lights in the silence of the long Greenlandic night. Here you know for certain what you only suspected before, that you are indeed a very small person on a very big planet. On earth’s largest island, you’re invited to connect with nature in a way lost elsewhere. Sure you can see the verdant glow of the Northern Lights in other parts of the world – Scandinavia, Iceland, Scotland even – but Greenland truly offers the space for a really personal experience; the openness to relax, reflect and reset away from our crowded lives. Here you’ll rediscover how humanity and nature are intrinsically linked, how survival frames a way of life that most of us have long left behind.

Featured Destination: Greenland Inuit Culture Greenlanders have a long history of self-sufficiency, with hunting, sledding, and fishing a means to an end rather than for fun. Despite the hardships of their lifestyle, Greenlanders remain relaxed, unpretentious, friendly, hospitable, and helpful. Sharing and rationing of valuable commodities like fruit and vegetables make sense, but hoarding is rare. Although the nation falls under the auspices of Danish rule, locals remain proud of their Inuit heritage, elected government, and Greenlandic language. Many young people these days do speak English, but you may find older folk using their native tongue only. Greenland is a haven for fish and seafood with fishermen bringing in their catch daily. Fish lovers will be in their element.

from a different perspective on board a masted vessel. It’s an unforgettable trip taking in arctic wildlife and marvelling at the way the colours and shapes of the icebergs change, like living ice sculptures with nature as the artist. Winter Dog Sledding Explore the snow-covered backcountry with a local hunter or fisherman. It’s probably the most authentic experience you’ll have as you join in their work in a tradition that goes back hundreds of years. February and March are the best times to race across the vast wintry landscape.

Adventures in Autumn Let the crowds go home while you enjoy a low season Autumnal visit mid-September to early November. At this time there is enough daylight to enjoy decent hikes among the golden colours of the spectacular Arctic mountains. You can also still sail in beautiful fjords surrounded by huge icebergs and see seals, caribou, and eagles. Temps may dip but even in minus figures, it doesn’t seem so cold due to low humidity and low rainfall. It’s also at this time that the Northern Lights come into their own, easily visible from your hotel or on a short walk into the rural environs. Remember though that the weather is king. Once the harbours freeze, sailing is no longer possible, but take the lead of locals, and switch to a more appropriate winter activity. Winter Wonderland If you long for a proper winter, then now’s your chance. February and March see tons of snow and all the fun that comes with it. Try snowshoe walking. Once you get the hang of it, it’s quite easy and an amazing way to explore the spectacular glistening landscape. If you prefer something faster, snow scooters and snowmobiling are also on offer, while authentic husky dog sledding with local hunters is a rush like no other. Ice fishing is also possible. The most popular destinations remain open for tourism year round. Not least, Ilulissat, home to the impressive UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ilulissat Ice Fjord, the fastest moving glacier globally, is a perfect base even in winter. The exhibition at the superb new centre is of hugely significant value for the study of climate change, which is becoming increasingly obvious in the Arctic and around the world.

Low Season Traveller

TOP EXPERIENCES

Sermermiut Valley The dramatic landscape is the backdrop for the visionary Ilulissat Ice Fjord Centre. Check out the thought-provoking exhibition before you walk up on the roof for some stellar views of the UNESCO recognised ice fjord and witness one of the world’s most active calving glaciers up close. Sailing the Ice Fjord Take to the ice-strewn water and experience Greenland

Dog sledding in Tasiilaq, Greenland

FOOD & DRINK Hotel Arctic, Illulisset The hotel’s Brasserie Ulo and fine dining gourmet restaurant are excellent and take great pride in including as much local produce as possible. The outstanding wine bar offers top-notch cocktails, while the views of the icebergs in Disko Bay are spectacular. Kalaaliaraq Market, Nuuk Visit “The little Greenlander” Market and you’ll see the range of fish, as well as seal, whale, reindeer, and musk ox meat. While you’re under no obligation to partake in those unusual products, it is worth noting that vegetarians and vegans will find options limited. Greenlandic Coffee You should end at least one dinner with this superb beverage, ideal for warming up a cold polar night. Made with whiskey, Kahlua and whipped cream, it’s topped with dramatically flaming Grand Marnier. It makes the Irish equivalent look quite tame. Colourful traditional dress of Greenland (Right)

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Greenland

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Greenland

Sailboat cruising among floating icebergs in Disko Bay, Ilulissat, Greenland.

Featured Destination: Greenland

INSIDER TIPS • Remember to bring appropriate clothing. Don’t let your adventure be spoiled because you didn’t bring sturdy, well worn-in boots. Body suits for snow shoeing and other outdoor activities or expeditions can be easily rented, but pack good sweaters, hats, thick socks and a warm jacket.

• Be patient. The speed of the Arctic is very different from the rest of the world. So let yourself be led by the atmosphere. You don’t need to have a packed itinerary of excursions. Make sure you allow time to simply sit and watch the icebergs as they change shape. It’s the ultimate meditation.

• Visit Ilulissat’s lovely Zion’s Church on Sunday morning. You’ll see local women in amazing and colourful national costumes as they attend service. One of the northernmost churches in the world, Zions Kirke was built in 1782 using funds collected from selling hundreds of barrels of whale oil.

GOOD TO KNOW • Many adventurous travellers shy away from group travel, but it’s actually a great way to see the best of Greenland and more cost effective than private excursions too. Group sizes are small, under 15, especially in low season. Booking about 10 months out will get you the best airline prices too.

• Check out the band Nanook, Greenland’s most popular musical group. Named after the legendary Greenlandic bear, Nanook launched a debut album in 2009. Their music evokes the atmosphere of the environment and they are known for their use of stunning Arctic scenery in their videos.

• TIME magazine recently included Nuuk on its

Low Season Traveller

list of the World’s Greatest Places. The tiny capital with its colourful homes is set to become the world’s first certified sustainable capital with low pollution and high environmental protection standards. Don’t miss the fascinating National Museum.

Low Season Traveller

Low Season Paris

When plans for a birthday trip to Iceland thawed at the 11th hour, Simon Donohue turned his attention to the French capital. Here’s his guide to a last minute long weekend in Paris during the low season. By Simon Donohue Listening to the late, great American chanteuse Ella Fitzgerald, one might conclude that there really is no low season period in which to appreciate Paris.

It’s actually a quirk of the low season experience which took my son and I to Paris at ‘Ella’ short notice and that time of year.

Performing Cole Porter’s timeless classic, I Love Paris, the legendary jazz singer famously imparts her love for ‘Paris in the springtime, winter and fall… when it drizzles and when it sizzles’.

We’d prepared an 18th birthday excursion to Iceland, intent on seeing the Northern Lights, only to have the trip cancelled at the 11th hour by severe snow storms over Keflavik airport.

In a nutshell, Ella loved Paris at any time of year.

Faced with potential disappointment, we contemplated sitting it out until Keflavik was cleared for landing later in the year, or heading somewhere else.

Fitzgerald might have most loved Paris in the springtime, but it has a particular ‘je ne sais pas’ in the more wintry month of January. It also means shorter queues and more choices in a city which can get pretty packed, so what’s not to like?

A frantic few hours of internet search threw up a number of possibilities. Where else could hold the interest of two gentlemen from different generations who’d hoped to see lights in the sky? An eyeful of the Eiffel would later confirm that we’d made the right choice, but more of that later. Here are our recommendations for a few days in Paris during the quieter months of the year.

The Eiffel Tower illuminated at night

Low Season Traveller

But the reality is that the boulevards of the City of Light set a different tone when there are darker nights and shorter days, even if wearing a warm coat becomes essential for that unmissable boat trip along La Seine.

Low Season Paris Arriving Visitors to Paris from the UK have a number of options. It’s possible to drive there in a day, particularly from southern England. Drivers can choose a cross-channel ferry or to travel using The Channel Tunnel, or Chunnel. Either way you’ll need to ensure that your car and any paperwork are prepared for travel outside of the UK. Another popular choice is to take the Eurostar train from London St Pancras station, a journey of only 2 hours between two of the world’s most famous capital cities. We flew direct from Manchester to Charles de Gaulle airport using EasyJet. Once at Charles de Gaulle, it’s simple and relatively inexpensive to take the RER B Line train into the centre of Paris (around 30 minutes and €11,45 for an adult). Or you could opt for a taxi into the centre for the fixed price of €55 to the Right Bank of Paris, or €62 to the Left Bank. Another option is to fly with Ryanair to Beauvais. Flight prices tend to be better value but the airport is around an hour and 15 minutes outside Paris by bus. Connecting Beauvais and the PorteMaillot district of Paris, a return ticket on the Aérobus Paris- Beauvais is €29,90.

Low Season Traveller

Staying There’s loads of choice and much depends on budget, the shape and size of your party (couples, families, etc) and where you’d like to head once you arrive in Paris. We stayed at the 4-star Le9 Hotel Opera, a nice and quiet location in the 9th Arrondissement. Metro stations Poissonnière and Cadet are both 230 metres from the hotel, which offer direct access to the Palais Royal, Musée du Louvre and Opera. It’s also within walking distance of both the Gare du Nord and Gare d’Est railway stations. Prices vary depending on occupancy and time of year but three nights in a very comfortable standard room with twin beds cost us €452.30 including taxes.

Getting Around Paris is a walkable city but it’s vast, with many of the things you’ll want to see some distance apart. There are surface buses, bikes and taxis, but we loved using the charming and safe Metropolitan underground train system. Stations are many and easy to find, with a large M or Metropolitan sign signifying the entrance at street level. Some are staffed, others have electronic ticket machines with an option to complete your transaction in English. There didn’t seem to be an option for tourists to use contactless travel when we visited, but the paper tickets are easy to use. A single metro ticket costs €2.10 (ticket t+), and can be used for one journey, including all connections for 1h30 between the first and last validation. At the time we travelled, you were able to buy a ‘carnet’ of 10 tickets offering slightly better value, but sadly these have now been discontinued. Weekdays, the metro operates from 5.30am to about 1.15am. On Friday and Saturday evenings, as well as on the day before a bank holiday, trains run until about 2.15am. Spend time before you travel getting to know the route and line numbers of the trains you’ll need to take. They all operate

on numbered and coloured lines to make them easier to navigate. Things to see and do in Paris during the low season You don’t necessarily need to be heading to Paris for any particular reason: the sights of the city surround you and it’s enough to stroll and sit. The city is vast and easily accessible via the Metropolitan underground system. But there are a few places you’ll definitely want to spend a while and they include: Notre-Dame Arguably the world’s most famous Gothic cathedral, Notre-Dame came within 15 minutes of being lost forever when a devastating fire swept through its Mediaeval structure in April 2019. French President Emmanuel Macron immediately promised that NotreDame - or ‘our lady’ - would be rebuilt within five years and, sure enough, reconstruction is said to be on course for visitors to return from December 2024. For now it’s possible to get a sense of the scale of the challenge by viewing the extensive scaffolding work surrounding Notre-Dame, which stands defiantly beside the Seine on the Île de la Cité, in the 4th arrondissement of Paris.

The Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre Views across Paris to the Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre (right)

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Low Season Paris

Low Season Traveller

Skulls in the Catacombs of Paris

Sacre Coeur Perched atop the charming Montmartre hill district of Paris, the white limestone basilica of Sacre Coeur provides some of the best views of the city, inside and out. It’s a bit of a climb up the narrow winding streets to the foot of Montmartre. The final approach to the Sacred Heart Basilica of Montmartre is via a choice of staircases - around the belly of the hill versus straight up - or using the funicular railway, for which there’s a small fee. Queues are shorter during the low season and the sun will be more forgiving too. From out in front of Sacre Coeur, you can see right across the valley of Paris, picking out many familiar landmarks. Inside is a place of hushed contemplation, with ceilings reaching towards the heavens, gilded statues and a series of confessional chambers. It’s all too easy to turn straight back down the stairs upon leaving Sacre Coeur, but instead spend a while walking through the nearby streets of Montmartre, where you’ll find art galleries and pavement cafes aplenty. The Basilica is open every day from 6.30am to 10.30pm. Entry is free and no reservation is required. Visitors to Montmartre arrive on one of three main Montmartre metro stops – Abbesses Station (line 12), Blanche Station (line 2), or Anvers Station (line 2). Eiffel Tower The Eiffel Tower is literally unmissable during a trip to low season Paris. It stands on the bank of the Seine but can be seen across the city, reaching 330 metres into the

sky. During the darker months, there’s more time to see le tour d’eiffel illuminated by its 20,000 low energy lights, with a spectacular searchlight reaching even further into the sky. However, a note of caution during these ecofriendly times. We set off enthusiastically to walk to the Eiffel tower on our first evening in Paris. Having arrived quite late into the evening, we were making our final approach at around 11.40pm, when… the lights went out. Take note that the lights of the Eiffel Tower are switched off every night at 11.45pm! Another benefit of being a low season traveller is shorter queuing times during the day for the lift or stairs up the Eiffel Tower. Visit www. toureiffel.paris/en for ticket prices and opening times. Arc de Triomphe Equal in iconic status to the Eiffel Tower and providing what is arguably a better view of the city is the Arc de Triomphe. It’s a landmark on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, which runs between the Place de la Concorde in the east and the Place Charles de Gaulle in the west, where the Arc de Triomphe is located. On the outside of the arc you’ll see the ornate stonework decorations depicting Napoleon’s military victories and deities. Underneath lies the tomb of the unknown soldier, its eternal flame flickering against the darkness. Best of all is a visit to the top of the arc, which affords brilliant views along the 12 avenues emanating from the Place de’toile, or the Square of the Star, the site’s historic name before the death of Charles de Gaulle. It looks particularly stunning after dark, with views of the city

Low Season Paris shimmering and the Eiffel Tower providing a focal point. Visit www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr/en/ for ticket prices and opening times.

from Châtelet station taking around 40 minutes. Trains run until after the park closes, allowing for an easy return journey to the city centre. Visit www.disneylandparis.com/ en-gb/ for ticket prices and information. The Louvre A major benefit of being a low season traveller in Paris is a slight reduction in the queues for some of the major attractions. That’s certainly the case at the Louvre, where wait times can be several hours during the busier months. Best advice at any time is to book online and ahead, securing an allocated time slot in a slightly shorter but more certain queue. Once inside, there are literally hours of things to see. You’ll definitely want to see the enigmatic smile of Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. We also loved the apartment which once used by Napoleon III, aka Napoleon Bonaparte, including incredible party and dining spaces still decked out in the finery of the day. Visit www.louvre.fr/en for ticket prices and information.

Arc de Triomphe

Disneyland Paris Marking its 30 anniversary in 2023, Disneyland Paris attracts young and old alike. New for 2023 is an incredible Marvel drone show, Avengers: Power The Night, yet another good reason to look to the night skies during the low season. It’s scheduled to run until 1 January 2024, with a scheduled break between from 6 November to 1 December 2023. Getting to Disneyland Paris from the centre of the city couldn’t be easier, with the RER A train

Tourists taking photos of Mona Lisa in The Louvre Paris Catacombs For an attraction that really doesn’t depend on the weather, head deep underground to the breathtaking Paris Catacombs. This somewhat macabre spectacle is where Parisiens relocated the mortal remains of millions of people to make way for the city’s expansion. A storage solution lay in the chambers of the former stone quarries beneath the city. Not content with simply lowering the skeletons of countless people, their remains were arranged artistically and became a tourist attraction which continues to this day. Visit www.catacombes.paris.fr/en for ticket prices and information.

Low Season Traveller

Panthéon What started out as a symbol of the monarchy had a change of purpose following the French Revolution, when it became a magnificent temple of the great men and women of the nation. But mainly men. Impressive as it is, the Panthéon survives from an era when only men were deemed heroes worthy of immortality and the travails of women went without celebration. In fact it wasn’t until 1995 that the Panthéon broke with tradition and entombed physicist and chemist Marie Curie in its hallowed halls for her contributions to the study of radioactivity. The building itself, formed around the church Sainte-Geneviève, is simply stunning. A centre piece is a pendulum clock under the great dome, kept to time by a golden globe suspended from on high. The walls are lined with giant images of figures from history including Joan of Arc. In the basement of the building is a crypt containing the remains of dozens of French luminaries, including celebrated writers. These include Victor Hugo of Les Miserables and The Hunchback of Notre-Dame fame, Alexandre Dumas, Jean Jacques Rousseau, Voltaire and Emile Zola. Visit www.parispantheon.fr/en for ticket prices and opening times.

Featured Destination: Zimbabwe

ZIMBABWE Vibrant culture, historic sites, and wildlife up close and personal

Low Season Traveller

Low Season: October-March

21 Zambezi River Cruise at sunset

Featured Destination: Zimbabwe

By Claire French

Landlocked between the rivers of Zambezi in the north and Limpopo in the south, and just north of the Tropic of Capricorn, Zimbabwe is technically tropical, but

experiences a sub-tropical climate due to its elevation. Mild dry weather in the southern hemisphere winter May to October sees the peak of the tourist season with the best game viewing. Low season arrives with the wet summer as winds from the east cross Mozambique bringing heavy rainfall when they hit the raised ground of the Eastern Highlands. The east of the country remains the wettest in the hot humid summer from late October to March while the western regions are a bit drier with less prolonged rainfall. Travelling in the low summer season might be hotter and wetter but is totally possible, especially with a high clearance vehicle, and it means you’ll have many sites to yourself, enjoy a lusher, greener environment and get the best rates at those camps that do stay open year-round. It’s also the time for top bird-watching, the arrival of baby animals, spectacular thunderstorms and colourful orange and red sunsets, especially over Lake Kariba and the Zambezi River.

Low Season Traveller

I bet if you had to come up with something interesting to say about Zimbabwe, you could probably muster one or two thoughts about a dodgy political past, rampant inflation or the collapse of Mugabe. Relevant points though they may be, they don’t begin to scratch the surface of what this historic nation is all about. Did you know for example that Zimbabwe has a host of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is home to the world’s biggest man-made lake, the ruins of an impressive 11th century empire, and scores of beautiful rare butterflies? Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, and despite economic setbacks, Zimbabweans are working hard to shape their country’s global reputation as a welcoming destination with warm smiling people and a bucket list must for safari, nature and culture.

Featured Destination: Zimbabwe Fascinating Culture Zimbabwe is simply teeming with history and heritage. The unique rock art in the spiritual ambience of Matobo Hills, an area of teetering boulders, granite kopjes and wooded valleys, is where some of the most well preserved rock paintings in Africa are located. They are said to date back at least 13,000 years. Check out the ruins of Khami and Great Zimbabwe, built by the Bantu civilization of the Shona people from the 11th century. The long artisanal history of the Shona has developed from architectural to artistic and is showcased in the stunning Chapungu Sculpture Park on the outskirts of the capital Harare. Unique Wildlife Experiences More remote and pristine than safaris elsewhere, Zimbabwe has excellent opportunities for game viewing in small, personal and exclusive camps with professional guides dedicated to lifelong training and conservation. Hwange National Park is the big draw, just 2 to 3 hours from Victoria Falls. It’s a vast 15,000sq km of protected land with good populations of buffalo, elephant, lion, cheetah and leopard. It also has some of the most diverse birds in the world, with nearly 700 species being recorded, and especially prevalent in the low season from November. Matobo has significant populations of white and black rhino, and it is possible to take a guide to track these on foot. Lesser known, more remote parks offer amazingly diverse landscapes of flood plains, grasslands, hidden valleys and lush vegetation. Hardy adventurers visiting Matusadona National Park, the Eastern Highlands, Chizarira and Gonarezhou National Parks will be richly rewarded, but do check as many camps, particularly around Mana Pools close during the wettest part of the year.

TOP EXPERIENCES Getting Wet at Vic Falls Twice the size of Niagara, this magnificent fall on the Zambian border, very popular in December, is at its best in March with a good cascade but before there’s too much spray. Adrenaline junkies can indulge in bungees, abseiling, gorge swinging and white water rafting on the Mighty Zambezi River.

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Lake Kariba Houseboat The damming of the Zambezi created an immense inland sea, 270km long, sparking the dramatic rescue of animals from the rising waters. Stay on a houseboat to explore the wildlife-laden shores or angle for tigerfish. Petrified forests add mystery to some of the country’s most beautiful scenery.

African Elephant bull by Chilojo Cliffs

FOOD & DRINK Sadza Widely consumed throughout the country, Sadza is a national dish, being to Zimbabweans, something like pasta is to Italians. It’s made by gradually cooking cornmeal or maize until it turns into a thick porridge. It’s served for breakfast, lunch or dinner, alongside meat, stew or sauce. The Boma, Victoria Falls An amazing spread is served in a vibrant and energetic atmosphere. Traditional performers entertain while you tuck into a four-course meal including a big braai barbecue with all kinds of meats. Try warthog steak or dried mopane worms or go vegetarian. Drumming and dancing ends the evening. The Victoria Falls Hotel Take afternoon tea or sip a gin and tonic on the veranda of this iconic grande dame of Southern Africa. Built by the British in 1904 as accommodation for workers on the Cape-to-Cairo railway, the serene colonial property allows dramatic views of the falls, the towering gorges and river below.

The Place of the Elephants Gonarezhou National Park is a true wilderness tucked away in Zimbabwe’s remote south-east corner. It’s a spectacular region with towering cliffs, meandering rivers and a unique ecosystem that houses 400 bird species, abundant wildlife and the 11,000 elephants which give the park its name.

Oxpeckers sitting on hippos in the water at Mana Pools, Zimbabwe (Right)

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Featured Destination: Zimbabwe

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Zimbabwe

Rainbow over Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe

Featured Destination: Zimbabwe

INSIDER TIPS • Most people over pack, so keep it simple. The dress code is conservative so don’t bring short skirts and heels. On safari light neutrals are best. White gets dirty quickly and bright colours distract the wildlife. Layers are good, and strong boots, and don’t forget your waterproofs for low season travel.

• Outside of the cities, there is little light pollution so the Southern Hemisphere night skies remain magically clear with beautiful constellations, the Milky Way and planets visible after sunset. Download an app to help you identify all you are seeing or just be amazed with the naked eye.

• Nyanga National Park in the Eastern Highlands, Hwange and the Zambezi Valley are fabulous birding hotspots in the low season with hundreds of species recorded, including colourful rare migratory feathered creatures, Livingstone’s turaco, yellow-billed hornbill, and black-headed oriole.

GOOD TO KNOW • Previously named Rhodesia after Cecil Rhodes, founder of the former British colony, Zimbabwe gained independence from the UK on 18 April 1980, a holiday celebrated as National Day. 2 years later the capital’s name was changed from Salisbury to Harare in honour of the Shona Harare people.

• Don’t get finicky about brand names. Zimbabweans call all toothpaste “Colgate,” every soft drink “Coke,” every washing powder “Surf” and every floor polish “Cobra.” No one is complaining, not so long ago, supermarkets struggled with empty shelves and none of these products were available.

• The national flower of Zimbabwe is the Flame Lily or Gloriosa, a stunningly beautiful tropical flower also found in Australia and Asia. The red and yellow symbol of purity blooms during the rainy season and the plant is used for its medicinal properties but is toxic if swallowed.

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LISTEN TO THE PODCAST

Meet The Low Season Travellers

Low Season Traveller

Meet the

Featured Meet TheDestination: Low SeasonZimbabwe Travellers

Low Season

Travellers

Bryony Simcox and George Webster are filmmakers, storytellers, and changemakers. After starting their video production company, Broaden, whilst living and working in Australia, Bryony and George planned an ambitious journey to drive their newly acquired 1994 Toyota Hiace named Suzi from the UK to Southern Chile, via India, before Covid derailed their plans when they hit València, Spain. In this interview I caught up with Bryony and George to discuss how Broaden started, their time living in a van in Spain during lockdown, the kindness of strangers, and how they have developed a passion for sustainable travel.

Ryan: Tell me about how Broaden started. George: Broaden started when we lived in Australia. I was a self-taught filmmaker and Bryony was an Urban Designer and Placemaker. We were coming up to the point where we had to decide whether to stay in Australia or not, and we realised that we didn’t like the idea of just coming back and living a ‘normal life’. So we decided to live out an idea that I had had for years of driving from England to Chile. Bryony: I was loving my career in Urban Design at the time, but in different ways we were both feeling the frustrations of working for a boss that wasn’t yourself. We were having creative aspirations alongside a realisation that we really wanted to travel. The company that I was working with had commissioned George to make a video about an urban design transport plan, and through that project we realised how much we liked video as a form of storytelling.

Bryony working in current day Broaden

George: We decided that we would make a YouTube channel and create documentaries as we travelled. Before we left Australia, we filmed a test documentary for a placemaking project that Bryony was working on as a proof of concept, and we had a series called Place Portraits which was about capturing cities in Europe with an analogue camera. So the concept was around further developing the 2010s ‘vlogging’ movement, focusing more on cinematic storytelling.

Bryony: For us, living in the van was about so many things; self-sufficiency, self-reliance, self-determination, exploration, pushing ourselves to the limit, and celebrating old technology. The videography was the curse of the creative, we couldn’t experience something like that without feeling the urge to document it. So for us, using filmmaking as a way of telling the stories that we encountered along the way was the tool we used.

(Left) Bryony and George stood with Suzi the van

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We moved back to the UK and then started looking for a very specific campervan, a Toyota Hiace 1994, which we spent our savings on purchasing and building.

Meet The Low Season Travellers Ryan: So you set out on this mammoth trip and reached València in early 2020, what happened next? George: We got to València in Spain where through Bryony’s contacts in placemaking we knew a guy who ran La Marina de València, which in itself was a really interesting city-planning intervention. Bryony: And then in early March, when we had just made our first commercial contacts for Broaden and found our first client, an English-speaking Spanish tourism company who had given us an amazing brief, Covid hit. We went from enjoying a festival the night before where the city was packed with people, to being told that you have to be two metres away from each other. George: We were stuck in a car park on the marina in our van, and we couldn’t leave. We would go to the shops and the police made us walk on opposite sides of the road. After a short time we managed to find alternative arrangements, and managed to move to a friend’s holiday home in Catalonia. Bryony: That period was actually when a lot of the projects that we had been working on for Broaden got results. We finished editing the documentary about Portland, Australia, and we finished editing another of George’s documentaries called The Hundred Miler. Looking back, being in lockdown was a really, really difficult time, and in Spain the conditions were especially tough. However, the Spanish government, to give them credit, realised the importance of culture, and this led us to getting a contract that really saved Broaden in 2020, which was filming music concerts in La Marina de València. The marina is an incredible example of placemaking that connects a working class town that used to be outside of València, with València itself. They had weekly concerts which they made for free for the public in the main square. During COVID they decided that they wanted to bring them back in whilst phasing the number of people who were allowed in, and livestream the concerts for anybody to watch. We won the commission to be the provider of the livestreams, and that job saved us.

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We moved back to València from Catalonia and week in, week out, even though we were wearing masks and even though there were rules about standing a certain distance away from people, we were able to film live music, in a Spanish square, and get paid for it.

George: Essentially, that was the step where Broaden moved from being a travelling video storytelling project, to being a commercial outfit. We realised that we would have to cut short the dream of travelling to Chile, and so we took the livestreaming job. Through that connection with València and through friends of friends, we gathered a small group of commercial clients and really started Broaden as a commercial video company.

Stood with Suzi the van in La Marina de València, where we lived during Covid Bryony: There were so many dark times in 2020, and they weren’t just because of COVID. We were coming to terms with giving up on this dream of travelling and also realising that regardless, the van itself wasn’t suitable for what we wanted. However, there were amazing times, for example being parked up at a reservoir in the middle of rural Spain and opening the van door in the morning to turquoise blue waters, or being parked on the top of the mountain next to a monastery and being able to just explore, or even sitting in the lashing rain in a campsite and grudgingly being plugged into electric because your solar panels aren’t generating enough to run your laptops. All of those really empowering nature-based experiences of the van, combined with getting the bug of self-employment, are moments that shone through. Ryan: How did you end up coming back to the UK? Bryony: In December 2020 we came back to the UK in the van, with the plan of selling it and going back to Spain. We had decided about a month or two before Christmas 2020 that we wanted to stay in Spain, but unfortunately that Christmas was when the Brexit rules were coming into force. George: We employed a Spanish immigration lawyer to help us get a visa to permanently move to Spain, which took 18 months and £3,000, and we still got denied. However, within the 18 months that we were forced to be in the UK, we had actually started putting down roots. I started falling

Meet The Low Season Travellers

Bryony: For those 18 months while we were one foot in and one foot out of the UK, we were feeling like there was someone else making our decisions for us. And I think, as George says, even before we had the decision made for us by being rejected, we’d come to terms with staying in the UK anyway. Ryan: So what is Broaden now? What kind of projects are you interested in? Bryony: Broaden is a creative company that makes films, but more broadly, that makes cinematic experiences. We’re really interested in using storytelling as a way of inspiring action, but we understand that anything on the journey to inspiring action can start with a thought or a conversation. Whilst we’ve got a team that’s growing, the company is a reflection of mine and George’s skills and passions. We really do believe that the world needs to change. We’re very much driven by this purpose of people living more sustainably, people living more equitably, people investing in culture, and looking after each other. George: The reason why I have settled on film as a main communicator of ideas is because I am, as I describe, cripplingly dyslexic. I’ve never read a book in my life, but I’ve watched millions of hours of documentaries, and that’s where my knowledge of the world comes from. Film has informed my view of the world from being a kid and watching Michael Palin documentaries on a Saturday

Early days of travelling, George in Australia

afternoon with my dad. So when it comes down to the subject matters that we talk about and really feel need to change to create a better society, that’s where Broaden funnels it down to an audiovisual experience. Bryony: In terms of the specific kinds of stories we would like to tell, we’re really interested in talking about the idea of DIY and repair, and why we believe that fixing and repairing things can be really empowering and really important to tackle consumer culture. We’re also especially interested in communities and community hubs, especially in parts of Britain that feel like they’re dying, and how pubs can be the social glue in those places. We’ve got a real interest in music and music education, and we’ve been lucky enough to work for a lot of music charities and music organisations who bring music education into schools. We’re both people who’ve benefited from the music education in our childhoods being a really key part of our creative expression. More generally, we’re interested in the role of nature, and of protecting nature, whether that be carbonabsorbing peatlands in Trafford, or clean waterways and clean airways. George: It’s the points where Broaden leaks over into our personal lives that we’re really interested in. When we’re deciding about projects we want to work on, we think that it surely should be the things that come very naturally to us.

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back in love with Manchester and the North, we started working here again.

Meet The Low Season Travellers

Early adventures in New Zealand Ryan: You’ve developed a passion for sustainable, overland travel. Tell me about some of your recent trips. George: I think it started when we needed to go back to València to pick up lots of gear that we left when we came back to the UK. We flew to València with two friends, and we had looked at couriers to bring everything back, but Bryony thought we could do it overland as the coaches and trains don’t have a limit on how many bags you can take.

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It was a hell of a struggle, but we packed all of our bags and took a train from València to Barcelona, and a 12-hour bus from Barcelona to Paris. We then went to a festival in Paris for three days, before coming back from Paris on the Eurostar to London, and then a train from London to Manchester.

George: After that, we got on with our lives and realised that we had done a lot of travelling, a lot of flying. We had flown to Málaga and back to do a shoot for a band. We went to Texas for South by Southwest. We got to a point where we decided that the next time that we wanted to go abroad, we would look at what it would take to do it overland. Then the next big trip turned out to be meeting our friends from Australia for a big reunion in Europe. They chose to go to Malta, which is unfortunately an island off an island, and is quite difficult to get to. It was a big experiment for us!

We acknowledge that if we would have flown from València, financially it would have been cheaper, and timewise, it would have been around eight hours door to door. But I think it was because we had a specific task of having to courier our own gear, it forced us onto these systems. I know it’s no surprise to people, but Europe knows how to do trains well!

Bryony: There was almost a comedy element to it all. Once we realised just how difficult to get to it was, it almost felt more relevant for that to be the one that we tried. It obviously takes so much more planning, so much more research, it does cost much more, it takes longer. But If you really do your research, there are often unusual combinations of legs and it was through that research that I discovered that there was a sleeper train from Milan to Sicily. And of course, the sleeper train is not only incredibly exciting if you’re British and you’ve never been on one, it’s also really efficient because it’s the overnight stopovers that really quickly add the cost to overlanding.

Bryony: I think for us it kills two birds with one stone. It’s a more pleasant experience and it’s a more sustainable experience.

George: We are in a position where, knowing what we know about sustainability and the impact of travel, it feels that we have no choice but to do the utmost that we can

Meet The Low Season Travellers do. It’s why we really steadfastly committed to doing Malta overland. But there’s some really cool elements too, like going to Paris for a day on the way. If you build it into your holiday, it’s no bad thing. Bryony: There was so much about it that felt like rediscovering that childish joy of travel. I felt like on this journey, we were really engaged with the journey. One of the things about flying that I think is so abrasive is the way that you’re just thrown into new time zones, different humidities, different cultures. Whereas a train journey is a real cross-section of a place and you see it evolve. And you don’t just see the major city, you see the urban, the suburban, the rural, and the industrial. It feels like

Sign showing CO2 emissions for different modes of travel

you’re exploring the place even if you don’t stop there. We stopped briefly in Sicily on the way back, but we also got to see Mount Etna from the train, we saw the fields where they’re growing tomatoes from the train, and you’re sitting on a train with the local people and hearing how they’re talking, and you feel totally immersed in the place. So when you do arrive and your holiday ‘starts’, you’ve already had two or three days which if you allow yourself to be in the right headspace, you’ve already eased your way into.

Train journeys whilst overlanding to Malta

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Overlanding to Malta

Featured Destination: Cuba

CUBA Seductive, complex, and colourful

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Low Season: September-December

33 Panorama of Viñales Mountains, Cuba

Featured Destination: Cuba

By Claire French

It’s worth noting that the tropical climate experiences two distinct seasons, the dry period from December to May and the rains June to November. As interest has grown in this stunning island, the summer months are now seeing more tourists prepared to dodge the showers and possible

hurricanes in return for an opportunity to experience Cuba’s magic. So, if you want to catch the best prices and avoid the crowds, September to early December is your best option. During this time, flight costs are lower, temperatures are still hot, and even when it rains, it’s usually short downpours which dry up quickly. Venues remain open and it is wonderful to visit the squares of old Havana when they are practically empty and enjoy UNESCO sites to yourself. The November and early December period in particular offer an ideal window with relatively drier weather plus a pre-festive lull in tourism, promising a blast of Caribbean sun, an enviable winter tan and a chance to find your own hips.

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“I forgot I had hips until I went to Cuba”. That was the recommendation of an uptight, over-stressed, stiff-asa-board friend after a recent visit to this, the largest of Caribbean islands. Known for revolution, controversy and iconic figureheads as much as for cigars, rum and addictive rumba beats, Cuba is increasingly opening to travellers wanting to encounter an authentic, richly textured, and genuinely sexy destination.

Featured Destination: Cuba Steamy Havana The renowned city at the island’s heart is a great place to explore Cuba’s faded colonial elegance, revolutionary history, and great nightlife. You may wonder why the streets are filled with so many vintage cars. Well it’s due to no new vehicles being imported from the US due to the 1959 embargo. Now the colourful classic motors are a way of life and available for visitors to take a tour in style. Top spots are the iconic coastal esplanade of the Malecón, the eclectic architectural mix in Old Havana, the Revolution Museum and Hemingway’s former home Finca la Vigia. Low Season Beach Life Cuba’s stunning sands can be rammed during the popular dry period, but are perfect come low season. The beach provides the ideal escape from humidity, the water’s warm and there are plenty of blue skies between the raindrops. Look out for dark clouds warning of a storm and enjoy a beachside mojito while you wait for it to pass. Low rates mean excellent bargains are to be had at top beach properties such as the serene Kempinski in beautiful Cayo Guillermo. National Parks Dig a little deeper and you’ll find a land rich in biodiversity, passionately protected national parks, and an absolute abundance of nature. Topes de Collantes National Park is about 25 minutes from Trinidad on the southern coast. It’s a mountainous place with underground caves and swimming holes idyllically set by spectacular waterfalls. Back in the north, Caguanes National Park covers 10 small islands and is a haven for birdwatchers with more than 200 species. Parque Nacional El Bagá on Cayo Coco occupies a former airfield and is a truly stunning spot with a butterfly garden, crocodiles and an impressive mangrove forest.

TOP EXPERIENCES Make your own Mojito Go and see Diana at Jibaro’s, a funky little Old Havana venue, and perfect the ultimate technique for pouring a Mojito, Cuba’s national drink. Time it for around 6pm and pop into the Baroque Iglesia Merced, one of the city’s oldest convents, or the nearby famous Boxing Club Truillo.

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Road trip from Havana to Trinidad Travel south on an iconic journey with sea experiences like diving and kayaking and land based adventures such as trekking, cycling and climbing. Take in the clear waters of the Bay of Pigs and the French town of Cienfuegos before arriving in the UNESCO heritage city of Trinidad.

Handmade cigars

FOOD & DRINK Grados, 562 E Street, Vedado, Havana A great place for a night out with friends or a romantic dinner, this fine dining venue was created by chef Raulito Bazuka and his artist friends in his mother’s Vedado mansion. Serves up authentic Cuban cuisine with a modern twist in a hip atmosphere. Fabulous tasting menu available. El Floridita, Calle Obispo, Old Havana Havanan landmark, and yes it is popular with tourists, having been made famous by American writer and journalist Ernest Hemingway. He is said to have whiled away hours in this very bar over a daiquiri or many. Regardless, it serves great food and enjoys a cool old town vibe. Finca Agroecologica El Paraiso, Viñales Wander Viñales’ streets lined with colourful colonial-era wooden houses before lunch at this farm to table eatery. This place serves delicious organic food overlooking picturesque terraced land growing fruit and veggies. Also fun for cocktails and amazing sunset views.

Join a Live Cabaret Show Don’t miss the dazzling old-style shows of the 1950s with over the top costumes and elaborate performances. Tropicana in the beautiful setting of El Salón Bajo las Estrellas is one of the best known, while Cabaret Le Parisien at the Hotel Nacional is a smaller, more intimate affair. Antique cars in Cuba (Right)

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Featured Destination: Cuba

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Cuba

Sunlight shining on the empty streets of Camaguey, Cuba

Featured Destination: Cuba

INSIDER TIPS • It is totally possible to wander alone, but consider the services of a local guide. Cuba is a complicated destination that requires careful interpretation and a guide can peel back layers of the past and reveal insights into culture. You’ll also discover favourite bars and eateries.

• Havana sunsets are even better when accompanied with a great view and sun downer. The rooftop at boutique Hotel Malecón 663 is one of the best if you want to hang with Havana’s hip crowd and enjoy the view of the Malecón, the city’s 4 mile seafront promenade.

• If it’s a dance experience you’re after, try the historic Hotel Inglaterra roof terrace on a Thursday or Friday evening. From 8pm a live band strikes up lively salsa rhythms. Travelling alone? You’ll soon find a dance partner to teach you the steps, and resistance is futile.

GOOD TO KNOW • Wi-fi is a little more complicated in Cuba than you’re perhaps used to. To access the internet, you’ll need to buy a wi-fi card and use your device in a designated hotspot. Some accommodation providers may offer use of their connections, but general access is limited.

• Cuba operates under a dual currency. Visitors usually use the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) which has pictures of monuments; and locals the Cuban Peso (CUP) with images of people. Values are different so check carefully and be aware you can’t take CUC out of the country.

• Low season cultural festivals to note are

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Havana’s biannual art fair in November and the ballet festival which sees famous dancers like Carlos Acosta come home to perform. The Latin American film festival always attracts a few great names such as Gael Garcia Bernal or Benecio De Toro.

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Hemingway’s Cuba

Hemingway’s CUBA By Lisa TE Sonne, Editor-at-Large

In Havana Through the 1930s, Ernest Hemingway would head from Key West, Florida to Havana, Cuba to fish and write, staying at the Ambos Mundos Hotel in the old center of town. Two walls in the hotel lobby offer a great array of Hemingway photos. Heading up the spiral staircase to Room 511 is worth the climb, if you want to see where the word-maestro tapped out some of his tales. 511 is now a small museum that features Hemingway artifacts -- from his fishing poles and typewriter to his distinct desk of adjustable height, so he could write standing up. Hotel history claims it was there that Hemingway started FOR WHOM THE BELL TOLLS, his novel about the Spanish Civil War, which he had experienced first-hand in Spain. The museum in his old room still offers views of the Havana Harbor and Old Havana, but these days, guests can get an even better and wider view from the hotel’s rooftop bar. For more sipping-in the Hemingway spirit and spirits, you can also stroll the nearby cobblestoned streets to enjoy two of the bars that Hemingway frequented. He’s credited to have said, “My mojito in La Bodequita. My daiquiri in El Floridita.” Both places are now lively tourist spots, good for Instagram photos. (Left) Local smoking a cigar outside La Bodeguita del Medio

At El Floridita, known as ‘the cradle of the daiquiri’, you can hang out with a life-size bronze statue of Hemingway leaning on the long, curved bar over the stool he used to favor. The bearded bard is often credited with creating his own double version of the drink, and it is still being served by consummate Cantineros (bartenders). The place was first opened in the early 19th century and served up other adventurous writers in the 20th century, including Graham Greene, John Dos Passos, and Ezra Pound. It continues to lure visitors. You can also toast Hemingway, the ‘legend in his own time,’ in the Bodeguita de Medico. Reportedly, Ernest imbibed mojitos there often, and today the glasses are lined up on the bar with the bartender crushing mints and pouring rum for the packed room. People crowd round the live musicians. It is touristy, but buzzy, too. Iconic photos of Hemingway and Castro together hang above the festivities. Upstairs is a restaurant that serves savory Cuban food. Almost every wall surface of the three-story building is covered with scribbles and autographs of visitors -- known and unknown. You, too, can add your name to the walls with the signatures of Papa Hemingway, Nat King Cole, and Errol Flynn, as well as the literary luminaries Pablo Neruda and Gabriel Garcia Marquez. You can also enjoy wild nightlife where the hard-living Hemingway did. La Tropicana, in Havana’s Marianao neighborhood, is one of the most illustrious nightclubs of the 20th century. The six-acre grounds opened in 1939 with lush gardens and an architectural wonder that served as an outdoor cabaret. Today the landmark offers extravaganza night shows in the tropical outdoors, mostly for tourists. Part of the allure for visitors is La Tropicana’s glamorous and shady history back in the 1950s, with its then-worldfamous cabaret and casino, top performers, mob action,

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With warm Caribbean breezes blowing, you can ride in a colorful 1950s convertible down the streets in Old Havana and over to gorgeous seasides that the famous author ‘Papa’ Hemingway enjoyed. You can even quaff down ‘his’ drinks in the bars he loved and visit where he wrote and fished. Ernest Hemingway lived in Cuba for decades. Inspired by the nature and culture, he did much of his writing there, which led to his winning both the Pulitzer and Nobel Prizes in Literature. THE OLD MAN AND THE SEA, TO HAVE OR HAVE NOT, ISLANDS IN THE STREAM, and FOR WHOM THE BELLS TOLL are just some of his creative works connected to Cuba.

Hemingway’s Cuba and the international jet set of celebrities and the wealthy. Ernest was earnest about his partying, and he was sometimes the host and sometimes the guest of honor. Rather than a polished show of professional performers, you may prefer the ad hoc nighttime entertainment of walking down the cobblestoned streets of Old Havana (pronounced Abana, and often written Habana). Music seems to emanate from every open window, and it’s hard not to want to move your body or be moved emotionally as you stroll through vignettes of local nightlife. Hemingway near Havana A place you can visit where the maestro spent a lot of time is about 14 and a half kilometers from the center of Havana – his La Finca Viagia (the Look Out Farm). The home and lands are where Hemingway entertained and wrote when he was in Cuba from 1940 until he left in 1960, after Fidel Castro took control of the country. Hemingway and his wife Mary left most of their belongings there, hoping to return. Hemingway’s manuscripts were later rescued by his widow with the help of the US President and First Lady Kennedy, but Hemingway’s furniture and other things are still there in what is now a government museum. Visitors are not allowed inside, but you can peek through the windows like a time-travelling voyeur to see Hemingway’s enormous desk and thousands of his books and records, as well as the mounted-animal heads that were considered to be manly hunting trophies at the time.

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Hemingway’s infamous deep sea fishing boat, Pilar, is now out in a yard at La Finca Viagia. When Hemingway was alive, Pilar, a brightly colored cabin cruiser with sleeping bunks for six, often anchored off the fishing village of Cojimar, about seven kilometers east of Old Havana. Cojimar still offers a beautiful beach, now called Playa Pilar. Overlooking the port, you can still visit the Cojimar Fort built by the Spanish in the 17th century. In 1962, to honor him, locals chose that site to erect a bust of Hemingway – reportedly a sculpture made of compiled nautical things his friends had gathered.

Colourful classic car in Cuba There were also Pilar fishing tales, like the story of Hemingway vs. the sharks. Once, when Hemingway was pulling in a thrashing shark on the end of his line, the frenetic motion triggered the gun Hemingway was holding, sending bullets through the large man’s calves. Later, in revenge, Hemingway reputedly found a gathering of sharks in the sea and fired a machine gun at them from the Pilar. (Please do not try this yourself.)

Cojimar is credited as the location that inspired THE OLD MAN AND THE SEA. It is also where Hemingway’s friend and boat pilot Gregorio Fuentes lived. The two friends enjoyed hanging out at La Terraza, a restaurant and bar with views of the sea that can enchant. It’s said that Hemingway’s and Fuentes’ regular table is treated like a shrine, and they serve a drink named after Fuentes. The two men shared many adventures and stories regarding the Pilar.

The Pilar’s even impacted Hollywood story-telling and romance. When Hemingway and his friend, the Hollywood director Howard Hawks, were fishing for several days, the legend goes that Hawks said he could turn even Hemingway’s worse book into a movie. The alcohol-fueled challenge went beyond the Pilar. The screenplay adaption of TO HAVE OR HAVE NOT was worked on by both Hemingway and (more-so) by William Faulkner-- the only movie script to have had two Nobel Laureates onboard. Originally set in Cuba like the novel, the 1944 movie changed many things from the novel including the location because of politics at the time. While filming, the two stars of the movie -- Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall -started one of the epic romances of Hollywood. You could say it all started in Cuba, where Hemingway wrote most of the book, and director Hawkes issued his challenge.

Hemingway, the ‘larger-than-life man’ who had been in the thick of WWI and the Spanish Civil War, did not want to sit idly at his Cuban outpost during WWII. He outfitted Pilar with artillery, but kept it disguised as a fishing boat. With Fuentes and volunteers, Hemingway patrolled the Caribbean waters many, many nights looking for the German U-Boats that had been sinking Ally supply ships in the Caribbean.

Hemingway also loved to take the Pilar to fish off Cayo Guillermo, a white sand islet over a coral reef that’s a stellar part of the Jardines Del Rey archipelago off the northwest Cuban coast. The island now has many resorts, and the beguiling beaches are still worth a visit. Low Season Travelers’s own founder, Ged Brown, has said, “I was there years ago and to date can say they are the most beautiful beaches I ever was on. I hope to go back.”

Havana skyline at dusk (Right)

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Hemingway’s Cuba

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Hemingway’s Cuba

Hemingway’s Cuba Hemingway Harbor and the International Hemingway Billfishing Contest For more Hemingway on the water, head to the Marina Hemingway and to HIYC of Cuba -- the Hemingway International Yacht Club – about a fifteen minute cab ride from Havana. The marina is where the avid sportsman started an annual Billfishing Contest in 1950. The Hemingway International Billfishing competition is now organized by the Cuban Ministry of Tourism and is held every May or June at the Marina. Fisherman from dozens of countries participate in the tournament that is now catch and release. One of the most lasting catches from a past tournament is not a marlin or sailfish, but the iconic photos of Hemingway and Fidel Castro, seen all over Havana and other Hemingway tourist spots. Hemingway and Castro were only together once, and it was at the 1960 fishing tournament.

Ernest Hemingway room sign

La Bodeguita del Medio First you must live it You may not be able to hang out with the living Hemingway at a colorful bar or gorgeous beach, or swap stories with him in a fishing tournament or cabaret, but seeing his favorite places is a fascinating way to experience some of this fascinating country, and in his own words from THE OLD MAN AND THE SEA:

And if you have aspirations for some of his writing mojo to rub off, you can be inspired in your travels by another Hemingway quote, “In order to write about life, first you must live it.” Typewriter and desk in room 511 at Hotel Ambos Mundos (Left) Hotel Ambos Mundos in Havana, Cuba

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“Now is no time to think of what you do not have. Think of what you can do with what there is.”

Featured Destination: Pittsburgh

PITTSBURGH A hilly maze of neighbourhoods, spectacular views, and lively entertainment in a post-industrial setting

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Low Season: January-March

Featured Destination: Pittsburgh

By Robert Isenberg

This is especially true in fall, when the leaves slowly change color over Pittsburgh’s rolling hills. Autumn days feel especially crisp in Western Pennsylvania, when the

humidity has faded and Steelers fans excitedly pull on their football jerseys. For a full century, the Steel City was pitied and mocked as an industrial wasteland, with blackened skies and coalstained row houses. But Pittsburgh has enjoyed decades of passionate redevelopment, showcasing the beauty and potential of Rust Belt communities. Today, the city boasts world-class museums, universities, urban parks, and dining options. The David L. Lawrence Convention Center draws conventioneers from around the globe, and an exploding film scene has made Pittsburgh’s vistas familiar to an entire generation of viewers, thanks to locally shot Netflix series (Mindhunter, The Chair) and Hollywood blockbusters (The Dark Knight Rises, A Man Called Otto).

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As every Pittsburgher will tell you, you simply have to take a picture at the top of Mount Washington. That’s what Grandview Avenue was built for – so you could stand on the edge of an observation platform and snap a photo in front of downtown Pittsburgh. In the background of every portrait, the river valley spreads far and wide, with handsome skyscrapers rising in the middle. Tourists come here. Newlyweds come here. Teens and retirees and college grads come here – all to take in one of the most spectacular urban skylines in America.

Skyline view of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Featured Destination: Pittsburgh Pittsburgh’s colonial history dates back to Fort Duquesne, a French outpost that, back in the 18th century, marked the frontier of westward expansion. The V-shaped convergence of the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers into the Ohio River made Pittsburgh a vital inland port, and the rise of steel mills attracted immigrants from all over Europe. Even now, Pittsburgh is a patchwork of 90 distinct neighborhoods, from Bloomfield (nicknamed ‘Little Italy’) to the North Side (formerly ‘Deutschtown’) to the nearvertical slopes of Polish Hill.

the city’s steel industry started to crumble and residents needed a major pick-me-up. On game days, the stands (and streets) are packed with fans waving ‘Terrible Towels.’ Local fervor for athletics can’t be overstated: A statue of champion running back Franco Harris stands in the middle of Pittsburgh International Airport, right next to a statue of George Washington. Fall is football season in the States, and if you happen to be in town on a Sunday, brace yourself for some enthusiastic crowds.

Piece by piece, the Industrial Age infrastructure has been adapted for the 21st Century. Freight lines have been transformed into miles of bike paths. An abandoned basilica has been repurposed as the Church Brew Works. The remnants of gears and blast furnaces decorate the walkways of Station Square. Meanwhile, Pittsburgh is home to more bridges than almost any city on Earth, from highway overpasses to Steam Age trestles. Museum City Business magnate Andrew Carnegie was both loved and loathed in Pittsburgh, but one of his great legacies is the Carnegie Museum of Art. This massive modernist complex houses an impressive collection of paintings and statues, along with rotating exhibits and the quadrennial Carnegie International. Housed in the same building is the familyfriendly Carnegie Museum of Natural History, heralded by a gigantic brontosaurus sculpture outside, and the Carnegie Library, one of the finest indoor public spaces in the state. Museum-goers will find plenty to love in Pittsburgh, hometown of both painter Mary Cassatt and scientist Jonas Salk. The Carnegie Science Center houses robots, model trains, and a complete submarine. The Andy Warhol Museum is a multi-storey gallery dedicated to the groundbreaking pop artist. The Mattress Factory contains giant rooms with avant-garde installations. And Bicycle Heaven is a converted warehouse with the largest array of bicycles in the world.

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Pittsburgh has a feisty arts scene, largely based in the ‘Cultural District’ downtown. Visitors can find block after block of theaters, galleries, and public art, as well as the August Wilson Center, an African American cultural hub named after the Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright.

Sports Capital When Pittsburghers speak of ‘the black and gold,’ they’re talking about sports, but you’ll have to clarify which one. The Penguins are the city’s beloved hockey team, which has won the Stanley Cup five times. The Pittsburgh Pirates have been playing baseball since the 1880s, and the stadium offers one of the most breathtaking views of downtown Pittsburgh. But Pittsburghers go most berserk for the Steelers, longtime darlings of American football. The Steelers have storied past – including six Super Bowl wins – but the franchise was most successful during the 1970s, when

People riding bikes on a path in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

FOOD & DRINK Primanti Brothers Sandwich Pittsburgh is the birthplace of Heinz ketchup and the Big Mac, but no culinary invention is more beloved than the Primanti Brothers sandwich, which mashes meat, cheese, coleslaw, tomato and chips between two slices of bread. This hearty treat began as a grab-and-go meal for Depression-era truckers eager to hit the highway. Growing Gastronomy Scene Pittsburgh has always been known for its pubs and diners, which once served shiftfuls of laborers. But the city routinely surprises visitors with its wealth of dining options: The university district of Oakland has a range of international cuisine, including Indian, Mexican, and Thai eateries. The long list of high-end restaurants includes Apteka, whose chefs were recent finalists for a James Beard Award. Inventive pop-ups and gourmet burger joints are scattered throughout the city; just don’t tell your cardiologist. Local Lagers and Whiskeys And there’s no better place to grab a drink: Pittsburgh boasts more bars per capita than any other city in the U.S., not even counting the scores of microbreweries that emerged in the past few years. A traveler could spend weeks just sampling local lagers and whiskeys. Penn Station, Pittsburgh (Right)

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Featured Destination: Pittsburgh

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Pittsburgh

View over Pittsburgh from the Duquesne Incline

Featured Destination: Cuba

INSIDER TIPS • More than just a rainy city, Pittsburgh is one of the most overcast in the country. No matter what season (including winter), visitors should plan to bring an umbrella and some kind of rain gear. Most of this rain is light and intermittent, but if you’re banking on sunny weather, make sure to have some indoor backups planned.

• Driving is a thrill in Pittsburgh, and GPS is your friend. The washboard hills and valleys have resulted in chaotic street patterns, and the cobblestone byways and weather-induced potholes can wreak havoc on your car. Here you’ll find the steepest street in America as well as a succession of, er, creative intersections. Keep an eye out for ‘parking chairs,’ which residents use to illegally reserve their spots.

• The Steel City isn’t known for luxury or resorts, but Downtown has plenty of upscale hotels, clustered among prime examples of historic architecture. Hotels get exponentially more expensive as you approach the city centre, but a good rule of thumb is not to stay beyond ‘the tunnels,’ as Pittsburgh’s suburbs are sleepy and feel farther away than they are.

GOOD TO KNOW • Pittsburgh has bred some of the country’s most impressive writers, including Michael Chabon, Annie Dillard, and Rachel Carson. To get a feel for the city, you may enjoy Chabon’s The Mysteries of Pittsburgh or the stage play Fences by August Wilson. (The film adaptation, filmed locally, is also excellent).

• Mill workers usually labored within walking

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distance of their houses. To help their onfoot commute, the city built hundreds of outdoor staircases, which run up and down the breakneck hills. These concrete walkways are still essential today, connecting residents to neighbors and local stores. While you’re there, book a ride on the Duquesne Incline, a 140-year-old funicular that ascends the slopes of South Side. What’s at the top? Why, Mount Washington. Make sure to snap a selfie!

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Maasai Mara

Hot air balloon ride over Maasai Mara

Maasai Mara

Low Season Experiences in

Maasai

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Mara 52

Maasai Mara

Cheetah family surveying the landscape in Maasai Mara By Harriet Akinyi Maasai Mara is not only one of the eight wonders of the world, but also one of the most popular destinations in Africa. The rugged landscape, stunning wildlife, and welcoming Maasais with a rich heritage all make the destination attractive. So popular is the destination, in fact, that it attracts thousands of visitors every year from June to October, in order to watch the 1.5 million Wildebeest cross the majestic Mara River from the Serengeti. Consequently, this has resulted in overcrowding in the park during the high season which has become a huge problem. However, all of this could change if travellers knew that it is not just the migration season that can be enjoyed in the game reserve. Aside from the fact that the ecosystem is becoming damaged due to overtourism in the high season, it is also the costliest time to visit and a challenging one to book.

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Maasai Mara is named from the Maasai people who inhabit the region, and the word means spotted in the Maa language. It is impossible to watch the migration during the low season sadly, however there are lots of activities to explore while in the Mara.

Game viewing in the Mara is excellent all year round, thanks to its beautiful weather, stunning landscapes, and the variety of resident game that one can view, including the big five (lion, leopard, rhino, buffalo and elephants). The Mara is famed for being one of the game reserves with the largest concentration of the big cats, which is one of the highlights of any safari experience. When it comes to the lions, there are a number of prides that have made the reserve their home for many years. While females are the permanent members of the family, males tend to be solitary as they often get chased by the group. Though it may be scary for a first timer, there is

nothing as soothing as hearing a deep roar from the lions on a silent night! If you are a beginner or a guru in photography, make sure you take a photographic safari during the low season in the Mara. Most camps are now including this package, with some having their own studio equipped with high quality equipment and a resident photographer to guide you through the process. For such trips, ensure that you are staying for a longer period in the Mara, and preferably the low season when there are fewer vehicles and the shortlived afternoon showers wash away the air of dust. The best game drives are night ones, and only camps located in conservancies around the reserve can offer this. While game drives in the reserve usually start at 6am and end at 6pm, the conservancies are the best places to get closer to nocturnal species in stunning landscapes. Some of the private conservancies include Mara North Conservancy, Nashulai, Mara Naboisho, Siana, Trans Mara and Olare Motorogi conservancy, where you will watch nocturnal animals such as leopards, lions, porcupines, white-tailed mongoose, civet cats, cape hares, and others. If you are tired of the game drives, a bush walking safari is an excellent way to view wildlife and also stretch your legs. It is also more eco-friendly as the objective is to see wildlife in a more natural setting, without using a vehicle. However, these must be guided walks and you should never be out without a ranger, as the wild is dangerous. The duration of the walks can be anything from 45 minutes to three hours, depending on the distance that you prefer. Some nature walks also include a packed breakfast or lunch depending on the timing of the walk. For a special experience, you can take to the skies in a hot air balloon before dawn and soar above the Mara plain, viewing wildlife and the breathtaking views of the plains

Maasai Mara from above. It’s an unforgettable experience, and its conclusion includes a well-earned glass of champagne in the middle of the reserve. However, wildlife is not the only thing that can be viewed in the park. For bird enthusiasts, the reserve has over 570 species, making it one of the best places to spot the rare, near-endemic as well as endemic species. Birding is one of the ways to connect with nature, and starting this hobby makes you pay attention to your surroundings, whilst the birds’ colours, antics, voices and plumage patterns will drive your curiosity. The best time for birding in the Mara is during the low season between November and April, when the European and North Africa migratory birds arrive.

The Mara River too is another place where you will marvel at the numerous bird species that you’ll view. For instance, you will spot the seven species of kingfishers, from giant to tiny pygmy kingfisher. The most impressive birds to watch are the birds of prey, such as the martial eagle, known to feast on young dik-diks or impala. You can watch the bateleur, one of the most iconic birds of prey in the Mara, and their kill sites also attract a huge number of vultures on a scavenging mission. Outside of the game drives, a great low season activity to enjoy is yoga. An early morning or a sunset yoga will assist in mindfulness, ease your stress and anxiety, improve your sleep and improve flexibility and strength. Most camps in the Mara have a program on this, but if you book one that doesn’t then why not create your own whilst enjoying the stunning views of the reserve with the sounds of the roaring lions, or watching the grazing zebras from a distance. Various camps in the Mara offer horse-riding, and cover a distance according to your health or equestrian ability. You can do it any time, but the best options would be at dawn or late evenings when the sun is down. To learn about the Maasais and their culture, make sure you join a cultural tour where you will have an opportunity to meet the locals and enjoy the cross-cultural interaction,

Male lion walking in the morning sun, Olare Motorogi Conservancy learning how the Maasais live, walking in their manyattas (houses made from cow dung), watching how they make their fire, and listening to their songs and dance. It’s an eye-opening experience to watch the blend between the traditional and modern lifestyle. At the end of the visit, make sure you buy a souvenir and support the local hardworking women who make them. One thing you shouldn’t leave the Mara without doing is experiencing the African sundowner. After a day filled with exciting safari adventures and wildlife viewing, the best way to end is by sitting by a fire holding a glass of your favourite drink and watching the sun dip below the horizon with the sights and sounds of wildlife as the backdrop. One of the most underrated activities while on a vacation in the Mara is spending time in the camp. Some have a swimming pool, others have a jacuzzi, whilst others still have an excellent organic garden where you can learn how to grow your own crops and find out where your food comes from. From stunning views of the Mara landscape to spa experiences that you can enjoy in the wild, a Mara glamping experience combines wilderness and luxury accommodation. So there you have it! Opting to come to the Mara in the low season offers plenty of activities to enjoy and satiate your appetite of being in the wild whilst having that unforgettable safari experience.

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As you drive along the grassland, you will catch a glimpse of the kori bustard which is the largest flying bird in Africa. These birds make the grasslands their home, and will stay for a long period of time provided there is food and water. There is also the secretary bird, famed for their snakehunting skills thanks to their powerful legs and eagle-like body that give it a height of 1.3 metres, and makes it one of the most instantly recognisable birds in the reserve. Other species that you will meet in the grassland are the turkeysized ground hornbills, flocks of white storks and crowned cranes, the Goliath heron, grey heron and the great white egret. You can spot a group of sacred ibis as well as the yellow-billed storks in the swamplands. In your game drive, try to get to Musiara Marsh in the Mara, an excellent bird watching spot and the only place in Kenya where one can spot the rufous-bellied heron breeds and the endangered Madagascar squacco during the low season months.

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Maasai Mara

Zebras in Maasai Mara

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Maasai Mara

Featured Destination: Seychelles

SEYCHELLES Cool jungles, giant tortoises, and achingly idyllic beaches

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Low Season: October, November, January-June

Featured Destination: Seychelles

By Claire French

A thousand miles from the East African mainland, in the Indian Ocean, many of the archipelago’s 115 islands are uninhabited making for a fascinating island hopping experience. Year round temperatures are great, rarely exceeding 32 degrees or falling below 24. At Low Season

Traveller however, we recommend travelling in May and June for fewest crowds and best deals. There can be showers but nothing like the very wet weather of December and January. May is still on the hot side, with June dropping a little, but the south-east trade winds begin to blow, bringing cooler air. This can make the sea choppy, especially along southern coasts, bringing seaweed to the shore and creating dangerous currents. Hence some south west beaches on Mahé can be too rough for swimming, while the north and east coasts are fine. On Praslin perhaps opt for a beach other than Grand Anse in this period too. Sea crossings can be rough, so if you get seasick you could fly, or bring lots of tablets. On the up side, surfing, windsurfing and sailing are a whole lot more exciting at this time.

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What do you seek? If it is an authentic, unprocessed, unplugged way of life, an unparalleled experience of nature and timeless beauty, then welcome to your happy place. Known for its exquisite beaches, brilliant white sand lapped by crystal clear water, Seychelles is renowned as the perfect honeymoon spot. True. Not quite there on the romance front? Never fear as singletons, friends and families find plenty to enjoy in this magical destination.

St. Pierre Island, Seychelles

Featured Destination: Seychelles Mahé The largest island is a great hub for visiting neighbouring isles but has plenty to keep you entertained itself. Explore the world’s smallest capital, Victoria, where you can easily walk around on foot, taking in Mission Lodge, once visited by Queen Elizabeth, the stunning National Botanical Gardens, Jardin Du Roi Spice or the Takamaka Rum Distillery. Hike the mountain rainforests of Morne Seychellois National Park with its waterfalls, stunning viewpoints, granite boulders and jungle trails. After all that, you deserve to relax on one of Mahé’s idyllic beaches, Anse Takamaka or Baie Lazare or Beau Vallon, particularly popular for sunset views. Praslin and La Digue These are the two other most popular islands and are far quieter than Mahé. In fact La Digue has barely any motorised transport at all. Famous Anse Source D’Argent on La Digue has been dubbed the world’s most beautiful beach due to its fascinating rock formations, while Anse Lazio on Praslin is another favourite. Visit the UNESCO recognised Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve on Praslin, where you can find out more about the Coco de Mer palm, which produces the heaviest seeds of any tree, with some weighing as much as 15kg. Other Islands Hop for a day trip to Cousin or Curieuse where you can see the Aldabra Giant Tortoise roaming free. Cousin Island is also a great place to see nesting hawksbill sea turtles. Bird lovers should head to Aride with its notable bird population. It boasts more birds than all of the other islands combined, and low season is a perfect time as many species will be nesting, with millions of birds descending on the island during May.

Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher

FOOD & DRINK Oscars on Mahé Superb beach views. Try the grilled red snapper or the best tuna steak on the planet. The Fish Trap on La Digue Great ambiance and live entertainment every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. Octopus Curry Local speciality made with coconut milk, aubergine and spices. Wash it down with a cold Seybrew beer.

TOP EXPERIENCES FetAfrik A colourful festival celebrating Seychellois African roots and Creole culture with a weekend of music, dance, fashion, food, and artistic expression. Takes place in late May on Mahé.

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Diving and Snorkelling If you tire of picture postcard beaches, take to the water and look out for angel fish, butterfly fish, sea turtles and manta rays or, around the outer islands, grey reef or silver tip sharks.

Cycling in La Digue The island is virtually free of motorised transport and by far the best way to get around is to hire a bike. Rental places are everywhere. The road follows the coast for one gorgeous view after another. Exploring La Digue, Seychelles by bike

Aldabra giant tortoise (Right)

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Featured Destination: Seychelles

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Seychelles

Anse Source d’Argent, La Digue

Featured Destination: Seychelles

INSIDER TIPS • On Praslin follow a track behind the grounds of the Chalets D’Anse Forbans to Anse Marie Louise. It seems hardly anyone comes here so you’ll be likely to have this beautiful place to yourself.

• If hiking, set off early and avoid the midday heat. Before departure, visit Victoria’s Botanical Gardens to collect information about landscape, flora and fauna to get the most out of your trek.

• Sportsmen and women can combine a holiday with the FINA open water swimming challenge, the Seychelles marathon or the new Nature Trail Run. Take part or just watch.

GOOD TO KNOW • Traditionally some restaurants close in June for staff holidays and maintenance so check before getting your heart set on a place to dine.

• It is thought that notorious pirate Olivier Levasseur once hid treasure worth over £100,000 on a Seychelle isle. It has never been found. Take a spade.

• If you fancy seeing creatures of the deep without a soaking, try one of several glass bottom boat experiences run by professional crew and often with lunch included.

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Warren Pearson

Warren Pearson Low Season Traveller

Odzala-Kokoua National Park

Warren Pearson Odzala-Kokoua National Park, in the Republic of Congo’s remote northwest, is one of Africa’s oldest national parks. It was proclaimed by the French administration in 1935 and is some 13,600 square kilometers of pristine rainforest, and an integral part of the Congo basin. Odzala is blessed with numerous habitats which range from dense primary rainforests to forest fringe, savannah, wide languid rivers and forest bais. Bais are swampy grassy areas dotted across the rainforest where various mammal species come on a regular basis for water, minerals and salts to sedges and water loving grasses. These bais range in size from less than a hectare to more than 10 hectares and represent the best chance of seeing forest wildlife. The spectacular diversity and beauty of Odzala boggles the mind. There are ancient giant trees well over 50 meters tall that emerge from the canopy, to delicate orchids that cling to the branches. All the while, the forest floors are bedecked with an incredible array of pods, fruits, flowers and fungi. I am constantly asked why go to the Congo? Odzala holds a globally significant population of western lowland gorilla and forest elephant, as well as a plethora of other incredible species. There are over 430 bird species and more than 100 mammal species, of which around 50 are classified as medium or large size. It has the highest number (11) of diurnal primates for any forest block in Central Africa, as well as Central Africa’s highest density of chimpanzees. Other species you can find include forest buffalo, leopard, lowland bongo and giant forest hog. If you enjoy butterflies, you will be stunned by the number of different species. There is often a confusion about Congo. There are two very different Congo’s here in Africa. One is the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and the other is the Republic of Congo (RoC). They are neighboring countries, but they could not be more differently governed. Unfortunately, the DRC is the one with all the troubles and rightly so, gets all the bad press. The RoC is an incredible, vibrant, forwardthinking country. Brazzaville is its capital city, a city that is busy, colorful, safe and exudes vibrant culture.

I will always keep going back to Odzala, where you are exploring an area the size of Belgium and you will be lucky if you see another tourist. You feel as though you are the only people on earth.

Early morning ‘wet’ walks start before the sun rises

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I am always asked, when should we visit? There is no best time to visit Odzala. It is a year-round destination. The temperatures and rainfall are consistent throughout the year, as you are in a rainforest, less than a degree north of the equator. The large mammals, including the western lowland gorillas and the forest elephants, do not migrate.

Warren Pearson

Spending time with La Sapeurs is a must while in Brazzaville

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On my most recent trip we stayed at the three Kamba Rainforest Experience camps. Ngaga Lodge is hidden in a dense, nearly inaccessible forest and possibly one of Africa’s most remarkable lodges. Here you get the opportunity to visit gorillas in a habitat barely touched by humanity. Ngaga is also home to a primatology research team whose members have spent decades observing the gorilla families, navigating the trails and understanding the rhythms of the forest. Here you can share in their knowledge while experiencing this intact ecosystem.

After Ngaga Lodge, we moved on to Lango Lodge, and possibly one of the most spectacular settings of any lodge in Africa. Here you are in a secluded heart of the Congolese rainforest. Suspended above a bai where elephants, buffalo and other wildlife come to bathe, feed and socialize. You have unparalleled access to a pristine ecosystem. Our time here was about getting in touch with the landscape, and also getting our feet a little wet and muddy. We did daily ‘wet’ walks and explored the numerous elephant boulevards.

until the water became too shallow, after which we continued on foot. We arrived at a beautiful drink stop set out in the middle of the bai by very warm and welcoming staff. I could have spent all week at Lango Lodge. However, we had to move on and our next camp was Mboko Lodge. Set at the intersection of Savannah, Forest and River, Mboko provided a front row seat to the staggering diversity of the Congolese ecosystem. Here we explored this ecosystem on boat as well as on foot. We cruised the Lekoli river, one of the main tributaries of the Congo River. We had incredible sightings of forest elephant mining for minerals, critically endangered slender snouted crocodiles, as well as the elusive Pels Fishing Owl. We flew back to Brazzaville and spent a night there before flying home. Just a note on Brazzaville. Take your time and spend at least two days there, exploring the city and meeting its people, most specifically the Le Sapeurs. Unfortunately, all good things have to come to an end. I cannot wait to go back to Odzala, exploring, and discovering, this otherworldly environment.

Our arrival into Lango was nothing short of spectacular. First, we drove, then when the road ran out, we kayaked Sitting with western lowland gorillas in the heart of the Congo basin is a privilege not to ignore (right)

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Warren Pearson

Low Season Traveller

Warren Pearson

Forest elephants come to the water ways in search of minerals in the soil

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Warren Pearson

Featured Destination: Zurich

ZÜRICH Arts & culture, fresh Alpine air, super clean rivers and lakes

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Low Season: September-November, January-March

Featured Destination: Zurich

By Claire French towers, the exquisite Chagall windows of Fraumünster, the vast and glorious eponymous Lake Zürich, and the beautiful Lindenhof Park, which marks the origins of the city. I won’t lie, Zürich is known for being costly. But, it is so worth it. And if you’re smart, you’ll travel in low season when the best bargains are to be had. Avoid the summer and Christmas peaks and make your trip instead in January to March or September to November. Dress warmly, be prepared for showers and you’ll find a unique destination full of surprises.

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You had me at make your own bar. Yes, at the new Lindt Home of Chocolate, you can pour your personal slab of the brown stuff and decorate it just how you like while learning all about this mouth-watering Swiss tradition. If that’s not enough, Zürich manages to cram the widest possible cultural, gastronomical and natural offerings imaginable into the smallest of urban spaces. Off the beaten track, safe and sustainable, this lifestyle city is easy to get around with many sights within walking distance and a first-class system of public transport that’s clean and easy. Explore the narrow streets of the 2000 year old riverside centre, the Grossmünster twin

Forest view from Uetliberg, Zurich

Featured Destination: Zurich Museum & Gallery Hopping With its recent extension, the Kunsthaus is the largest art museum in Switzerland, and includes works by Swiss and International masters including an impressive collection of Giacometti sculptures. The Art in Public Places scheme actively encourages random installations and with more than 1300 pieces now showing, you can wander and choose your fave. Less high brow, but well worth a visit, is the Fifa Football Museum with some brilliant interactive exhibits. We recommend getting a Zürich Card which covers your transportation and it also gives free admission to over 50 museums. Hop on Design Line 4 which takes in many of the city’s cultural hotspots. Low Season Events Off peak sometimes means the opportunity to take part in events missed by most visitors. Check out autumn’s annual offerings - the fantastic Zürich Film Festival, the Drone Champions League, or Slow Up Zürich during which all motorised vehicles are forbidden. Samichlausschwimmen is not for the feint-hearted as around 300 people swim across the freezing-cold Limmat river, while the more enjoyable Food Zürich is an 11 days’ festival with cooking classes and tastings. Fondue Frenzy There’s no better way to warm up a cold January night than in one of the chalets that open temporarily in the city serving steaming, sticky cheese fondue. High above the city rooftops, we love cosy timber-framed Fondue Chalet which invites guests with its crackling open fire, candlelight, and winter culinary delights. Cured meat and sausage specialties are traditionally served as starters before the communal main dish. Be careful though, fondue dining is fraught with etiquette, and the first to drop their bread in the molten mess is doomed to pay for the whole group.

Traditional cheese fondue on the Schnebelhorn Mountain at sunset

FOOD & DRINK Guild House Restaurants Traditional food in a truly historic setting. These decorative buildings are not only 14th century meeting places, they also offer culinary delights such as Geschnetzeltes, thinlysliced strips of pan-fried veal in a delicious creamy sauce served with handmade potato cakes.

TOP EXPERIENCES

Haus Hiltl, Sihlstrasse 28 According to the Guinness Book of Records, it’s the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, ready to treat you to Asian veggie options as well as some vegan twists on Swiss traditions. It was opened in 1898 near the popular Bahnhofstrasse and is still run by the Hiltl family.

Uetliberg Mountain Hike Zürich’s very own mountain for an unforgettable sunrise over crystal clear lakes. If that’s too much like hard work, take the train which will get you almost to the top, where the summit peaks above the cloud line, and you’ll find a handy restaurant serving warming drinks.

Confiserie Sprüngli, Paradeplatz Set in the very heart of Zürich is this famous café-salon. Taste a hot chocolate or the famous Luxemburgerli macarons or take part in the well-stocked confectioner’s buffet brunch. There also a Sprüngli boutique so you can take home some of your favourite items.

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Relax at a Thermal Spa When it’s chilly out, unwind in tranquillity at one of the city’s many bathing spots. The Old Town’s steamy hamman offers excellent body scrubs while the Zürich Thermal Baths & Spa is built into the vaults of a century-old converted brewery and boasts a rooftop hot bath with views.

Day Trip to Rhine Falls Just an hour’s train ride from Zürich lie what some claim to be the biggest falls in Europe. Rheinfall, as the Swiss name goes, is magnificent in full flow, and it’s possible to hike, walk behind the falls or take a boat trip onto the water. There’s also a cliff-top castle if you prefer dry land. Zurich downtown in the sun (Right)

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Featured Destination: Zurich

Low Season Traveller

Featured Destination: Zurich

Scenic views of Zurich city center

Featured Destination: Zurich

INSIDER TIPS • Nightlife can be pricy, so visit Langstrasse, for free to enter clubs. Unlike many cities, drinking in public is legal and common practice, so join the locals for an impromptu street party and save your Swiss francs for other activities.

• The Polyterrasse at the University offers fabulous views over the old town, particularly at sunset. Take the Polybanh funicular, and while you’re there visit the stunning law library designed by Spanish architect Calatrava.

• Autumn means mushrooms, and porcini, puffball, and parasol are served at local restaurants. You can also forage in the forests, but take great care to avoid poisonous fungi, get your picks checked for free at the inspection office.

GOOD TO KNOW • Breath-taking city views are to be had at Dolder Open-Air Ice Rink. This one of a kind 1930s feature is reached by train climbing through beautiful forests to the luxury Dolder Grand Hotel and is open from October to early March.

• For all the advantages of travelling in low season, it is worth checking the schedule of seasonal activities like the Pavillon le Corbusier, Limmat river cruises and the Felsenegg cable car, and choose alternatives if they are closed.

• Download the Drallo app for a digital wine

Low Season Traveller

tour with your smartphone. The app picks up your location and follows Zürich’s wine trail giving interesting briefings related to what you see en route through the Lattenberg area of Stäfa.

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Cultural Heritage

cultural heritage icons When it comes to cultural heritage wonders, some iconic sites like the Great Wall of China or the Taj Mahal often steal the spotlight. However, our world is filled with hidden gems that showcase the rich tapestry of human history and cultural diversity. In a regular feature in collaboration with our partners at The World Tourism Association for Culture and Heritage, we embark on a journey to discover five lesser-known cultural heritage wonders which you may not be aware of. These extraordinary sites offer unique insights into ancient civilizations, artistry, and remarkable human achievements.

SINGING STONES OF BOSNIAN PYRAMIDS, VISOKO, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

UNDERWATER CITY OF YONAGUNI, YONAGUNI ISLAND, JAPAN The Underwater City of Yonaguni is a mysterious underwater formation that is located off the coast of Yonaguni Island, Japan. The formation consists of terraces, roads, and even statues, and it is believed to be the remains of an ancient civilization. The origin and purpose of the Underwater City of Yonaguni are unknown, but it is a popular diving destination.

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The Singing Stones of Bosnian Pyramids are a collection of massive stone spheres that have been found near the Bosnian Pyramids. These stones are said to emit a humming sound when struck, and they are believed to have healing properties. The origin and purpose of the Singing Stones are unknown, but they are a popular tourist attraction.

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Cultural Heritage

Cultural Heritage WOODEN MOSQUES OF MTSKHETA, MTSKHETA, GEORGIA

PAINTED CAVES OF BHIMBETKA BHIMBETKA, INDIA The Painted Caves of Bhimbetka are a collection of over 1,500 rock paintings that date back to over 30,000 years ago. The paintings depict animals, humans, and everyday activities, and they offer a glimpse into the early life of humans in India. The Painted Caves of Bhimbetka are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they are a must-see for travellers who are interested in prehistoric art and culture.

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The Wooden Mosques of Mtskheta are two of the oldest wooden churches in the world: Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery. These churches were built in the 11th and 13th centuries, and they are masterpieces of Georgian wooden architecture. The Wooden Mosques of Mtskheta are also important religious sites, and they are a must-see for travellers who are interested in early Christian architecture and Georgian culture.

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Cultural Heritage

OLMEC COLOSSAL HEADS, TABASCO AND VERACRUZ, MEXICO The Olmec Colossal Heads are a series of massive stone heads that were carved by the Olmec civilization between 1500 and 400 BC. The heads are up to 10 feet tall and weigh up to 25 tons. The purpose of the Olmec Colossal Heads is unknown, but they are believed to have been symbols of power and authority. The Olmec Colossal Heads are some of the most iconic artifacts from the Olmec civilization, and they are a must-see for travellers who are interested in Mesoamerican archaeology. We hope this overview of these unusual cultural heritage icons has inspired you to visit one of them on your next trip. Low season travel is the perfect time to visit these sites, as you’ll avoid the crowds and enjoy a more authentic experience.

of the best podcasts Low Season Traveller Insider Guides provide low season travel insights into what tourism destinations offer during their low seasons and also identify when is the best time to experience their destination. Here, we’ve picked out five of our favourite most recent podcasts.

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LOW SEASON DUBLIN: PUB CULTURE

In this episode of Low Season Traveller Insider Guides, host Ged Brown chats with Ronan Lynch, a 3rd generation Dublin publican who runs The Swan Bar in Aungier Street. The Swan Bar is a true Irish pub that has been standing since 1661. It’s a place for drinking, conversation, craic, and perhaps a little rugby banter. Ronan shares his insights on Dublin pub culture and what makes The Swan Bar so special. He also talks about the new accommodation that The Swan will be opening later this year, which promises to be an experience true to the style of this old world pub.

Why you should listen:

• If you’re interested in learning more about

Dublin pub culture or if you’re planning a trip to Dublin

• If you want to enjoy Ronan’s fascinating insights as he brings the Swan Bar to life.

LISTEN NOW

Featured Podcasts

HOW ETHICAL IS YOUR VACATION?

Nikki discusses the role of Destination Management Companies (DMCs) in the tourism chain, and how understanding what they do is key to understanding how ethical or sustainable your next holiday might be. She also talks about the impact of COVID-19 on the tourism industry, and how it has created opportunities to do things differently. Tuan explains the mission of the Global Travel Collective, which is to bring together small operators and give them a voice in a market that is dominated by large, global players.

He discusses how the Collective is working to promote ethical and sustainable tourism practices, and how travellers can support the Collective by booking trips with its members. Why you should listen:

• If you’re interested in learning more about ethical and sustainable tourism.

• If you’re looking for ways to make more ethical choices when planning your vacations.

• If you want to find out more about the Global Travel Collective.

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Low Season Traveller

In this episode of the Low Season Traveller podcast, Nikki Morrison talks to Tuan Pham, co-founder of Travel Neutral and one of the co-founders of the Global Travel Collective. Tuan shares his insights on the ethical and sustainable tourism industry, and how travellers can make more ethical choices when planning their vacations.

Featured Podcasts

Low Season Traveller

9 DAYS OF MASSAGE IN GOA

In this episode of the Low Season Traveller podcast, host Ged Brown chats with Claire French, Chief Copywriter of Low Season Traveller Magazine, about her experience of undergoing 9 consecutive days of Ayurvedic massage in Goa.

If you’re looking for a truly unique and transformative travel experience, then listening to this episode is a must. Claire’s insights are fascinating, and she really brings her experience of Ayurvedic massage to life.

Claire explains that there is a lot more to Ayurvedic massage than just relaxation. It is a holistic system of healing that takes into account the mind, body, and spirit. The massages she received were tailored to her individual needs, and she found that they helped to improve her overall health and well-being.

• If you’re interested in learning more about Ayurvedic

Claire also talks about the importance of choosing a reputable Ayurvedic practitioner. She recommends doing your research and reading reviews before booking a massage.

experience of undergoing 9 consecutive days of Ayurvedic massage…

Why you should listen: massage and its benefits.

• If you’re planning a trip to Goa and are looking for a unique and transformative experience.

• If you’re simply curious to hear about Claire’s LISTEN NOW

Featured Podcasts

REFLECTIONS ON RIO

Ged discusses the merits of taking the bus versus flying in Brazil, and offers tips on what to do (and what not to do) in Rio. He also argues against taking “highlights tours,” and encourages listeners to explore the city at their own pace. Ged also invites listeners to share their tips and advice for Rio in the next edition of Low Season Traveller Magazine.

Why you should listen:

• If you’re planning a trip to Rio de Janeiro, this episode is full of valuable tips from someone who has recently visited the city.

• If you’re interested in learning more about the merits

of taking the bus versus flying in Brazil, or if you’re curious about Ged’s thoughts on “highlights tours,” this episode is for you.

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Low Season Traveller

In this episode of the Low Season Traveller Insider Guides podcast, Ged Brown, Founder of Low Season Traveller, shares his reflections on a short stay in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Low Season Traveller

Featured Podcasts

BRITISH SCENIC RAIL JOURNEYS In this episode of the Low Season Traveller podcast, Ged explores the beauty of British scenic rail journeys. He and Jules Townsend, CEO Community Rail Network discuss the many benefits of travelling by train, including its sustainability and its ability to connect travellers to remote and beautiful destinations. Jules also highlights some of the most scenic rail journeys in the UK, including:

• The Settle to Carlisle line, which passes through the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District.

• The Jacobite steam train, which crosses the Glenfinnan Viaduct in Scotland.

• The West Highland Railway, which winds through the

• The North Norfolk Railway, which offers a glimpse into the region’s rich maritime history.

Jules encourages listeners to consider travelling by train for their next UK vacation. She argues that it’s a far more sustainable and rewarding way to see the country. Why you should listen:

• If you’re interested in learning more about the benefits of travelling by train.

• If you’re planning a trip to the UK and are looking for some scenic rail journeys to add to your itinerary.

• If you’re simply curious about some of the most

beautiful places in the UK that can be reached by train.

Scottish Highlands.

the most picturesque countryside in the UK.

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Low Season Traveller

• The Heart of Wales line, which passes through some of

LOW SEASON TRAVEL MAKES YOU FEEL FREE

Low Season Traveller - Issue 6

Articles inside

Low Season Traveller - Issue 6

Low Season Travellers

LOW SEASON GUIDE: ZIMBABWE

ICEBERGS, FJORDS & FISH IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE