JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian ISSUE 01 / YEAR 01

#01

our cover

#01 Jewellery Historian ISSUE 01, YEAR 01 JULY 2014 Founder & Editor-in-chief : Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier www.jewelleryhistorian.com e-mail : info@jewelleryhistorian.com

Cover : Earrings by Leyla Abdollahi Photo courtesy of Leyla Abdollahi © Leyla Abdollahi www.leyla-abdollahi.com

Issue #2 will be available August 1, 2014

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submissions At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality.

Our mission is to promote, inspire and educate, so we expect designers and brands whose work we feature to be generous with their knowledge.

We always look also for talented photographers who want to show to our readers their unique creative skills and their creativity.

We welcome you to submit any and all original designs, thoughts and concepts you'd like to share. Just keep in mind that we only write about jewellery made in gold, platinum or other precious metals but we never publish articles about costume jewellery.

You should be eager to describe and explain aspects of craft; you should be willing to take photos of a work in progress or document the process in some way.

If you would like to show us your jewellery creations to consider featuring in the website and our e-magazine, please follow the instructions as provided at www.jewelleryhistorian.com We accept submission ideas for a wide variety of topics.

Please be sure to download the Submission Guidelines, which contain directions on how you can submit your material for review. The Submission Guidelines contain detailed directions for how to submit your proposals.

Send us your proposal today at info@jewelleryhistorian.com or visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com for further information.

editorial Today the jewellery industry is as dynamic as it is fast growing.

Consequential changes are under way, both in consumer behavior as well as in the industry itself. Jewellery players can’t simply do business as usual and expect to thrive; they must be alert and responsive to important trends and developments or else risk being left behind by more agile competitors. The jewellery industry seems poised for a glittering future. Consumer appetite for jewellery, which was dampened by the global recession, now appears more voracious than ever.

In this competitive industry, every jewellery brand need to strengthen and differentiate its brands through unique, distinctive designs but also through marketing and advertising.

The trend toward branded jewelry is especially hard on small artisans, who don’t have the marketing muscle of the large jewellery groups.

As a response to this fast growing industry, and the needs of jewellery brands & designers, was born the Jewellery Historian, a website for connoisseurs and people who love not only jewellery, but also design and unique craftsmanship.

The main mission of the Jewellery Historian is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects, with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery design as a form of creative expression.

What you can see today is definitely not a magazine. It is a collection of all our articles published on our website the very first month. It is a way to say, thank you to all brands and designers for their precious support & trust.

We are not a company. We do not sell anything and we just write about jewellery we love. We publish for free our articles, after we get the permission to use official material. The only thing we request from companies is to share our articles in their social media and website. The more visibility we get, the more visibility we can offer, now and in the future, to all brands and in particular to emerging jewellery designers.

The Jewellery Historian is a marketing tool, that allows to brands & jewellery designers, to reach and engage their audience in a powerful new way.

A different way to introduce the unique universe of jewellery, to the new digital generation and a website that aims to be a reference for jewellery brands & jewellery lovers.

Photo courtesy of AS29 Š AS29

AS29 architectures spines

& minimalism

www.as29.com

AS29

architectures spines

& minimalism

In 2008, Belgian designer and fourthgeneration diamond dealer Audrey Savransky has broken new ground with her fun and flirty AS29 collection.

With a passion for diamonds, Audrey has long understood women's need to sparkle and shine.

With this in mind, Audrey has created the AS29 collection as a cure for diamond envy - as healing as medicine and as tempting as candy.

The label name AS29 is a mix of Audrey's initials and lucky number. She believes in diamond therapy" as a soul medicine, and her creations are indeed presented in tablet-shaped jewel cases. Flowers, hearts, lips... AS29 pieces combine delicacy and femininity with the ultimate quality of gold and gems.

Created with the precision applied to any chemical compound, the collection's name is inspired by the elements of the period table, combining Audrey's initials and her lucky number.

Designed to relieve the aches and pains associated with a lack of diamond accessories, each piece comes in a blush pink pillbox complete with instructions for dosage and method of administration. Contraindications include the possibility of visual disturbances due to acute brilliance and the onset of jealousy in non-users.

The pieces themselves are delicate, encouraging the wearer to indulge their feminine wiles. Alluring diamond encrusted curves form rings, hearts and flowers. The necklace pendants hang from slender gold chains, while the bracelets are made from vivid colors of the season, using all the colors of diamonds, sapphire, rubies and amethyst available. >

> At the Jewellery Historian we loved the SPINE collection. It is an amazing interpretation of the spine which is so precious, from architecture to human body.

Covered with diamonds it's an absolute must have. We loved the minimal design of the LANA collection which keeps the essential of jewellery.

The pavé collections could be considered "classic" but the creativity of Audrey makes them all-time classics.

The snakes collection is simply amazing, in particular the cuffs covered of white and black diamonds.

"The AS29 pieces are a fun gift but are also perfect for self administration," reports Audrey Savransky.

"Today's woman is more than capable of looking after her own wellbeing and we all know that diamonds are an essential part of any balanced lifestyle!"

AS29 collections are available among others at Colette, Le Bon Marché and Montaigne Market in Paris, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges in London and in Rue Madame and Plukka in Hong Kong. The collections are also available at the AS29 e-shop.

Photo courtesy of AS29 © AS29

Daniela Villegas

inspired by nature

All photos courtesy of Daniela Villegas Š Daniela Villegas

Daniela Villegas hand crafted pieces are all one of a kind. Drawing inspiration organically through nature, friends and family. Her daily life is a constant blur of colors, which can be seen in her designs.

Villegas views life as a playground, her jewelry is as surprising and exciting as the changing nature of the world. These constant movements keep her inspired, dreaming and p lanning her next adventure. Her love of travel and exploration is reflected in her unique designs and distinguish who she is as a designer.

Using only the finest materials: 18K gold in every color, precious and semi-precious stones mixed with natural elements: feathers, woods, porcupine quills, insects and pebbles. Villegas designs are made for the light at heart.

Her jewellery are exceptional, with an amazing craftsmanship, combining precious gifts of mother nature, gold & gemstones to natural elements.

www.danielavillegas.com

www.jewelleryhistorian.com

Alexandre Reza

the precious gems collector

Alexandre Reza is a Paris-based jeweler known for his diverse and rare collection of precious gems.

One, or maybe, the greatest gem collector of modern times. The Maison Alexandre Reza has a unique expertise and tradition, as well as its sensitivity to beauty. More than ever, Alexandre Reza is the embodiment of high jewelry.The Alexandre Reza House is a family business which reinforces their vision of High Jewelry: an artisan’s craft that gives time to time and that is concerned with attaining perfection above all.

He could see the quality and potential of a stone beyond its appearance and was able to foresee what it would look like once re-cut. Dynamic and with an uncanny eye for gems and a flawless ability in acquiring stones, Alexandre Reza was also able to take timely risks. After the war, he began his career as a diamond expert, traveling extensively to source each stone, which served as the key design inspiration for his work.

He built up his reputation and fortune during the fifties and sixties, thanks to incessant work and a frantic social life. He had links with the jet set, with actors and writers.

Florence Gould was a close friend of Alexandre’s, before being a customer.

Alexandre Reza opened a branch in Paris around 1950 and became one of the main precious stone providers for Place Vendôme jewelers. On top of his remarkable gem collection, Alexandre Reza gradually started designing and producing an increasing number of high jewelry pieces thanks to the best studios; these then went to international jewelers or to his private clientele. >

All photos, courtesy of Alexandre Reza © Alexandre Reza

All photos, courtesy of Alexandre Reza 漏 Alexandre Reza

> Alexandre Reza travelled the world in search of the most exceptional stones.

He could anticipate market trends and buy gem lots before demand went up, as was the case of colored diamonds, Burmese or Ceylon sapphires or natural pearls. Reza knew how to adapt to new demands led by the emergence of new behaviors and new fortunes.

He created opulent and prominent jewels, no longer necessarily formal ones.

His private clientele increased. Crowned heads such as as well as tycoons were seduced by the unique quality of his stones and by the extraverted nature of his style tempered with typically 18th century French sensitivity.

In 1971, he transferred the House to 21, place Vend么me and then opened his very own studio in 1979 at the same address. This put Reza in an excellent position to make direct contact with select members of the public and connoisseurs in the field.

Whilst respecting traditions, which were essential to Reza, he modernized the established conventions of high jewelry and became a tremendously demanding master in the field.

Thanks to his success, his company became international and Reza opened salons in Geneva, Cannes and Monte Carlo, to be as close as possible to his clients. >

> Today, the Alexandre Reza House has reached a new stage and is now headed by Alexandre Reza’s son Olivier Reza. Lines are elongated, shapes are more geometrical and balanced, but grace, volumes and elegance are still very much present in Reza’s way of magnifying exceptional stones.

The Alexandre Reza House prides itself on its expertise and tradition, as well as its sensitivity to beauty. More than ever, Alexandre Reza is the embodiment of high jewelry.

Unlike most international jewelers, the House has chosen to stay in line with its own vision and has introduced an exclusive policy to remain open to the public through its salons in Paris only. This way, the Alexandre Reza House can concentrate on its design, stone collecting and craftsmanship, which is the essence of its activity.

www.alexandrereza.com

All photos, courtesy of Alexandre Reza Š Alexandre Reza

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FABERGÉ

The Imperial Jeweller

Photo courtesy of FABERGÉ © FABERGÉ

FABERGÉ

The Imperial jeweller

Fabergé, the world’s most iconic artist jeweller, creates modern collections of extraordinary jewellery, watches and accessories for a discerning international clientele. The story of Fabergé is inextricably linked to the lives, loves and tragedy of the last Romanov Tsar Nicholas II and his Empress Alexandra, and to the Russian Revolution that changed the course of world history.

Founded in 1842, Fabergé has been the most revered name in jewellery ever since Peter Carl Fabergé became official goldsmith to the Russian Imperial Court; the house created exquisite jewels and objects, including the legendary series of lavish and ingenious Imperial Easter Eggs.

Peter Carl Fabergé, legendary artist-jeweller, goldsmith to the Russian Imperial Court, was the creative and entrepreneurial genius behind the world-renowned company that bore his name. He captured his extraordinary moment in time through exquisite jewels and precious objects that still resonate today with the passions and poignancy of a lost world. Deeply imbued with the spirit of their age, these masterpieces remain timeless in their recherché beauty, breathtaking craftsmanship and absolute dedication to perfection. Like the swan song of a dying civilisation, Fabergé’s jewels, personal accessories and objects of fantasy, richly layered with cultural references, conjure up a vision of Belle Époque, its leisured luxury and ravishing refinement, the fabulous new wealth of tycoons and industrialists. They trace the captivating story of the tragic end of the Romanov dynasty, of the lives and loves of the ill-fated Nicholas II and Alexandra, cocooned in the lavish opulence of their court, cut off from the harsh realities of a fastchanging world and rocked by encroaching forces of darkness. French in their artistic sensibilities but with a profound and poetic Russian soul, Fabergé’s works of art, like the stories they tell, continue to exert a powerful fascination as hypnotic today as it ever was.

His worldwide reputation attracted royalty, nobility, tycoons, industrialists and the artistic intelligentsia of Paris, Moscow, St Petersburg and London. In 1917, the Russian Revolution brought a violent end not only to the Romanov dynasty but also to the House of Fabergé. The Bolsheviks seized the Fabergé workshops and their treasures, all production was closed down and Peter Carl Fabergé and his family fled from Russia. >

All photos of this article are courtesy of FABERGÉ, © FABERGÉ

Peter Carl Fabergé was renowned for his exquisite and artistic use of colour, making the most of each gemstone’s unique characteristics and developing a vibrant enamel palette. Of Huguenot origin, with a febrile imagination, protean talent and entrepreneurial instincts, Peter Carl Fabergé became jeweller and goldsmith to the great Russian Imperial Court, creating exquisite jewels and objects, including the legendary series of lavish and ingenious Imperial Easter Eggs.

In a legal settlement in 1951, the Fabergé family lost the right to produce and market designs under the Fabergé name. Yet, through decades of the 20th century, the noble Fabergé name, separated from the family despite their attempts to honour and perpetuate their legacy, showed an extraordinary resilience. Throughout, the legend has retained its mystique, charisma and aweinspiring romance, along with a certain enigma tied to the mystery of the whereabouts of many iconic Fabergé works of art.

History came full circle in October 2007 when Fabergé, under new ownership and direction, announced the reunification of the Fabergé name with the Fabergé family. This opened a new chapter in the intriguing story of Fabergé, and set the stage for a total revitalisation of the Fabergé name and philosophy, in tune with its original values, aesthetics and spirit. Fabergé was relaunched on the 9th September, 2009, with three Les Fabuleuses de Fabergé High Jewellery Collections - Les Fleurs, Les Fables and Les Fauves de Fabergé. >

> Today, with Katharina Flohr as Creative and Managing Director, and her in-house creative team, Fabergé is forging a fresh yet strong identity. Fabergé continues to explore and epitomise the ‘art of colour’, pushing the boundaries of artistry and craftsmanship with superlative coloured gemstones and innovative techniques.

Paying homage to Peter Carl Fabergé’s genius as a visionary artist-jeweller, and benefiting from the expertise and guidance of Tatiana and Sarah Fabergé, his great-grand-daughters, contemporary Fabergé collections are imbued with poetry, artistry and refined ideals of beauty made possible by unrivalled craftsmanship, innovation and ingenuity, all underlined with a strong emotional engagement.

Distinguished by Fabergé’s dedication to excellence and pursuit of perfection, the jewels are both linked to Fabergé’s world, yet of the moment and relevant today, demonstrating the modernity that Peter Carl Fabergé was always able to bring to his own eclectic cultural and stylistic references.

Contemporary collections are available at Fabergé boutiques in New York, London, Geneva and Kiev, as well as at Harrods in London and other exclusive international retailers. Selected items are also available via Fabergé’s online boutique at Faberge.com.

All photos are courtesy of FABERGÉ, © FABERGÉ

Photo courtesy of FABERGÉ, © FABERGÉ

www.faberge.com

Photo courtesy of Sylvie Corbelin Š Sylvie Corbelin Paris 2014

Sylvie Corbelin

the jewellery poet

Sylvie Corbelin

the jewellery poet

Sylvie Corbelin began her career as a Paris antiques dealer and quickly earned the title of "expert" in this field. Immersed in a world of strange and beautiful objects from past ages, she developed a trained eye and a love for the rare and unusual piece.

Sylvie also became fascinated with gems, and pursued this passion with studies that would lead her to become a Gemologist.

Her universe is a mysterious and sensual world, in which mythical characters coexist with naturalistic treasures. Her world is full a combination of XVII century esthetics combined to a unique craftsmanship, that allows to precious gems and fine metals to become a unique piece of jewellery.

As she says " Like a chef, I like to create my own recipes with a little air du temps. A touch of fashion, a pinch of color and a lot of passion, I sketch my heart's desires".

Combining her love for unique and exquisite objects and her knowledge of extraordinary gems, Sylvie began to design, and Sylvie Corbelin's jewelry line was born. Her jewels are made with only the finest materials such as gold or patinated silver, precious cabochons, coral, turquoise, baroque pearls and diamonds.

Her jewellery pieces are poetic and give you unique sensations, that few jewellers know to give you. Sylvie draws a powerful and joyful world, populated by precious objects that can be worn as trophies.

Her collections include and some are even centered around double serpent which became her the symbol and trademark.

Her boutique is a boudoir in Paris’ oldest - and grandest - flea markets, the boutique opened in the Paul Bert-Marché Serpette area. Customers from around the world have come calling, and experienced the Sylvie Corbelin universe: her own creations but also the beauties that Ishe had found throughout her travels and searches.

All photos courtesy of Sylvie Corbelin © Sylvie Corbelin Paris 2014

www.sylvie-corbelin.com

BAYCO

Reverie of masterpieces

Photo courtesy of BAYCO © BAYCO

BAYCO Reverie of masterpieces For over half a century, the Hadjibay family at Bayco has been on a quest for the utmost quality, beauty and purity in its gemstones and design. Bayco has established a tradition of dream jewels that speak the language of luxury, creating one-of-a-kind masterpieces that express a passion for stones that has endured for generations; Indulging in perfection, coveting the finest treasures, nurturing the uniqueness of each stone, to suit the beholder’s singular aura and elegance.

Jewelry for kings and queens is one way to explain the business model of Bayco. This is, of course, a metaphorical conception of Bayco’s audience; the modern idea of royalty has grown to include everyone who hungers luxury and who understands the intricate labor and savoir-faire that goes into every Bayco piece. The sophistication once enjoyed only by half a dozen people in each country has spread to a more generalized, but still rarefied, luxury loving elite.

At BAYCO, you enter a reverie of jewels, a world where you will find a spectacular collection of one-of-a-kind masterpieces. Magnificent gemstones and diamonds are united to create awe inspiring works of art.

Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires which seemed to only exist in dreams become a bedazzling reality.

Though Bayco is a relatively new name in the world of precious gems, the expertise and passion it brings to the field is generations old. The family saga began with Amir Hadjibay, a young man with an entrepreneurial bent.

Traveling between Iran and India, he began to develop an interest in precious gemstones, trading them for elaborately woven Persian rugs. Soon he began to visit India’s regal maharajahs, leaving with bits and pieces of their legendary jewelry collections—show-stopping diamonds, carved emeralds and fiery rubies, among other gems.

It was a simple step to create their own designs, populating them with the cherished gems they knew so well. There would be no mass production; the Hadjibay brothers decided from the beginning that they would create only one-of-a-kind pieces, the better to devote their resources to the greater glory of the exquisite stones they wanted to showcase. The family bonds persist into the next generation; Moris’s son Marco recently joined the company, bringing a youthful enthusiasm, vigor, and commitment to the future. >

Photo courtesy of BAYCO © BAYCO

> The Hadjibay brothers design as a team—having grown up together around the world of gems, they share a design vision and impeccable taste. Though neither has had any formal training in jewelry design, finely honed instinct and decades of experience guide their steady hands to create pinnacles of jewelry. These creations are among the most exceptional in the world— ravishing rubies that emanate aesthetic richness, dazzling emeralds that beguile the mind, celestial sapphires that capture the sublime and enrapturing diamonds that transcend all epochs and eras.

The family expertise in gems has led to astonishing opportunities rediscovered. Moris remembers asking his father about his greatest regret. Amir told his son about “the one that got away”—a stunning 60-carat pear-shaped sapphire of the deepest blue. It came from the Kashmir mines, Amir told Moris, a source of the world’s most exceptionally blue sapphires, which has been closed for decades. The equal of such a gem would be impossible to find again. Years later, Moris came across a sapphire the likes of which he had never seen—a huge, exquisitely perfect gem. He immediately recognized the stone that had eluded his father years before. Proving how near the apple falls to the tree, Moris bought the gem on the spot. The perfect sapphire, Amir confirmed, had indeed made its way back to the Hadjibays. Such a regal stone deserved nothing less than an aristocratic home, and the happy gem now resides in one of the most important royal collections in the world. >

Photo courtesy of BAYCO © BAYCO

>Bayco jewelry effortlessly mixes old and new trends: its pieces are often influenced by the Mogul era, jewelry of the Indian maharajahs, and classical jewelry, which makes the beauty of each stone stand out. Jewelry is eternal; its beauty never dies, so old designs and ideas live again when paired with a new neck or wrist. The story starts with the stone, but it does not end there.

The larger the stone, the more likely its design will include traditional elements. “A woman who buys a large stone wants something classic,” explains Giacomo. A fashion statement, no matter how original or compelling, cannot be worn every day, and it runs the risk of becoming dated.

The Hadjibays must recut every gem that passes through their hands in order to ensure that its full beauty shines through. Another aspect of their art enters into the equation when matching stones for an exquisite bracelet or necklace: Giacomo and Moris have access to an encyclopedic mental palette, instantly comparing a new stone to those waiting to shine, ready to pounce on a sapphire of the exact blue needed to complete a design. “Matching color depends on taste and experience,” explains Moris, and the Hadjibay brothers have both in spades. The designs are classic, yet youthful—and the stones within are justly renowned for being the finest in the world. Bayco’s precious testimony of a passion for stones is a delineation of ultimate beauty in all of its forms. It is their devotional ode to every gem.

Bayco’s pursuit of gemstone purity is its own aesthetic truth—indulging in the exquisite, coveting the finest treasures, nurturing the uniqueness of each stone, creating an emblem of the wearer’s singular aura.

The most precious stones in the world await you…

www.bayco.com

Elena Votsi

Purity of the Aegean

Photo courtesy of Elena Votsi Š Elena Votsi

ELENA VOTSI Born in the Greek island of Hydra, Elena Votsi is a Greek jewellery designer.

Her source of inspiration has always been her birthplace. After studies at the Athens Fine Art School and at the Royal College of Arts of London, she established her company.

Elena Votsi definitely sources inspiration from her rich Greek culture and her home island of Hydra. Her jewellery has the purity of the Aegean.

The spheres hold the radiance of the Greek sun, while her curved lines have the serenity of the Aegean sea.

She is definitely one of the greatest ambassador of Greek contemporary creation. The simplicity and the purity of constructive forms, inspired by Cycladic architecture and the beauty of Greece are present in almost every piece she creates.

Archeological excavations in various Greek sites have given evidence that jewellery was popular in ancient Greece. Elena has in her DNA this unique know-how, but she knows to interpret it to contemporary forms and shapes while keeping this rich heritage. She is an extraordinary designer who knows how to transform geometric shapes into magnificent jewellery like no other.

In her career of 20 years Elena has collected a multitude of awards; the most prestigious of them all was being given the honor of re-designing the Olympic Medal for the 2004 Olympic Games in Athens, Greece, a medal to be used in all games henceforth.

The Olympic Committee chose Elena’s designs for the first official ‘revamping’ of the medal since the 1928 Amsterdam Olympic Games.

She found inspiration in her strong connection to Greek Culture, both present and past. She chose the Panathenaic Stadium of Athens, the home of the first modern Olympic Games in 1896 as the setting for her design. It is the only stadium in the world made of solid white marble.

Nike, the Winged Goddess of Victory, is gracefully floating into this stadium on the medal. She is known for bestowing glory and fame among the victors of ancient battle; and she will continue to do so for today’s Olympic winners. Elena’s design was chosen to remain the front of the medal, gold, silver, and bronze, for all future Olympics; turning her work into a piece of history.

In 2009, her handmade 18-karat gold ring with diamonds won the 2009 Couture Design Award in the category "Best in the New-to-Couture," a category for first-time exhibitors at the Las Vegas show.

Her jewellery is available in selected stores worldwide, among others at Bergdorf Goodman, in New York, at stoneandstrand.com and the Elena Votsi stores in Athens and Hydra Island.

All photos courtesy of ELENA VOTSI © Elena Votsi

www.elenavotsi.com

Robert Wan

The visionary

Robert Wan is one of the pioneers throwing himself in the culture of pearls in the early seventies. Having started with nothing, Robert Wan become the first worldwide Tahitian pearls producer and has managed to rank the Polynesian cultured pearl as the only French gem, the star of haute-joaillerie. His amazing work made him to be worldwide known as “the Emperor of the Pearl”.

Without a doubt, Robert Wan's greatest passion in life is the pearl. Mythical, timeless and original, the pearl is always associated with life's happiest moments. The pearl is the world's only gem born from a living being, completely natural and requiring no treatment. Whether worn with a tshirt and jeans, a tailored business suit or a wedding gown, you’d be hard pressed to find another investment that will take you through the moments of your life with such elegance, ease and warmth as pearls can do.

The Tahitian pearl is an organic gem formed from the black lip oyster, the Pinctada margaritifera.

The cultured Tahitian pearl comes in various shapes, sizes, and colors; shapes include round, semi-round, button, circle, oval, teardrop, semibaroque and baroque. Because of their darker hues, Tahitian pearls are commonly known as "black pearls". However, Tahitian pearls have the ability to contain various undertones and overtones of green, pink, blue, silver and yellow.

All (or any combination) of these colors may be seen in a cultured Tahitian pearl. Due to the variety of shapes and colors of the Tahitian pearl, it has been known to fit in any jewelry setting.The versatility and mixture of color give it its value.>

Photo courtesy of Robert Wan © Robert Wan

>Everything started before Robert Wan was even born. While many Chinese expatriated to the United States, Malaysia, Southeast Asia and Honolulu at the beginning of the 20th Century, Wan Fong ended up in Tahiti. He had fled his country at the age of 19, hoping to make his fortune. Wang Fong and his wife, Lai Mui, had 11 children in Tahiti. Robert Wan was the seventh child.

His family was modest, and life was built on a day-byday basis. Robert Wan fondly remembers his boyhood. He grew up learning to speak Chinese at home and learning Tahitian in the street. He first came into contact with the French language while attending Tahiti's Chinese School and then while in high school. The mixed cultures are one of his major assets. Robert Wan is open-minded, par excellence, having integrated the principles of education that are as rich as they are different. At the age of 13, he received his Chinese study certificate. A self-taught man, Robert Wan, above all, learned through his experiences.

Bursting with a fierce desire for unrivalled success, Robert Wan entered the working world at the age of 19. He firstly gained experience as an employee who loved a job well-done. He quickly moved to partner status before establishing his own companies.

During the ‘60s, the Polynesian government decided to promote the pearl culture. Many investors, adventurers, and scientists gave it a try, albeit unsuccessfully.

In 1973, Robert Wan spotted in the pearl culture the beginning of a beautiful adventure. More than anyone else, he saw in pearl techniques a way to highlight Polynesia and its treasures. >

>Curious and obstinate, he constantly became interested in something, learned about it. Certainly more than anyone else before him, Robert Wan saw pearl farming as a means of putting Tahiti and those treasures in the forefront. He believed in the development of his country, and so decided to invest in Tahiti.

In 1974 Robert Wan travelled to Japan, the birthplace of the cultured pearl industry, to meet Professor Sato, a well-known figure in cultured pearl production who had worked with the legendary Kokichi Mikimoto, pioneer and father of commercial pearl farming.

Sato introduced Robert Wan to Mikimoto’s grandson, who promised to be a loyal customer if Wan could produce enough Tahitian black pearls of a consistent high quality.

They met on the now-famous Pearl Island off Toba in the Japanese prefecture of Mie. Three years later, Robert Wan’s first harvest was entirely bought by Mikimoto. He was the first to believe in Robert Wan and his Tahitian black pearls, and a strong friendship between the two men remains to this day.

Robert Wan has always been particularly attentive to life's opportunities. Starting from scratch, Robert Wan ended up making the Tahitian cultured pearl Tahiti's only French gem, the star of fine jewelry.

From nacre to pearls, haute-joaillerie to science, Robert Wan is keen on understanding and trying out everything. He invests, experiments, questions himself, adjusts his observations and makes the most of his discoveries.

He knows how resourceful are the atolls, and 40 years after his first grafting, he believes more than ever in the development of the Poe Rava (literally “Green shimmering black pearl” in Tahitian).

Photo courtesy of Robert Wan © Robert Wan

He came across Tahiti Perles, a company founded by Australian biologist William Reed. It was located on Mangareva in the Gambier Islands with the hope of producing pearls one day. But no pearls had yet been harvested when Robert Wan decided to buy the company in 1974 with two of his brothers and some friends. >

Ten years later, in 1984, he bought the atoll of Marutea Sud from Jean-Claude Brouillet, one of the first great pearl adventurers in French Polynesia. Today, the pearls from Marutea Sud are recognizable from all other Tahitian pearls. Robert Wan considers them the most beautiful pearls in the world.

He next acquired the atoll of Nengo Nengo in the Tuamotu Archipelago in 1990. This was a first for him because the atoll was totally uninhabited and undeveloped when he bought it. Today, only 70 persons live on this atoll, like a village almost cut off from the world. Robert Wan now operates various sites in the TuamotuGambier Archipelago. They are located on the atolls of Marutea Sud, Nengo Nengo and Fakarava and the island of Mangareva.

Robert Wan is a passionate business man crossing several cultures.

French from his nationality, Polynesian from the place he is born, and Chinese from his origins. He draws from his many cultures the resources that help him to develop his business in an original way.

From his Chinese culture, he gets his sense of observation, his knowledge and his inborn respect of nature. From his French side, his permanent will to work with experts and scientists. From his Tahitian side, his passion and love for his country and pearls.

For more than forty years, Robert Wan produces the best Tahitian pearls, in lagoons that can be counted among the most pure and clean of the world. While searching for perfection, his constant goal has been to improve the quality of his gems. To do that, he has combined the experiences of the earliest pearl farmers with his own observations. Today, scientists and specialists continually assist him in this mission. His efforts have been fruitful. Robert Wan today offers pearl colors and quality that never existed a few years ago. Constantly driving himself to the possible limits, he is renowned as the world's foremost producer of Tahitian pearls, both in terms of quantity & quality and the Tahitian Pearls reference thanks to his unbelievable desire to excel.

Robert Wan Tahiti has been supplying well-known pearl wholesalers and jewellery producers-such as K. Mikimoto & Co., Golay Buchel, Tasaki Shinju, Hosei co, Tokyo Pearl, Nagaori Corporation.

You can find Robert Wan's gems and jewels in Robert Wan Tahiti own stores and in fine jewellery stores throughout the world.

www.robertwan.com

Photos courtesy of ROBERT WAN, © ROBERT WAN

mauro felter

Photos courtesy of MAURO FELTER Š MAURO FELTER

Style & Character

www.maurofelter.com

mauro felter

Style & Character

Mauro Felter has grown up in a land permeated by history: a valley in Northen Italy where lived one of the first pre-historic civilization, called “Camuni”.

Deeply influenced by the past and by the wonderful nature of his native territory, Mauro Felter started his artistic career bringing back to life, through his creations, the art engraved on the rocks by ancient people.

His distinctive element is uniqueness. Jewellery strictly hand-made , with unique features. Nothing taken for granted or obvious. A style with a strong personality.

His designs are for sure inspired from human art by also of nature. But definitely his creations are an amazing and unique showcase of the gifts of mother earth to us.

He designs jewellery around a centerpiece, the heart of the jewellery being a center stone like boulder or fire opal. All of nature’s splendour seems to be reflected in the manifold opulence of fine Opals: fire and lightnings, all the colours of the rainbow and the soft shine of far seas, the universe, the ocean, a mountain lake, the blue sky with stars. >

Photos courtesy of MAURO FELTER © MAURO FELTER

> Mauro definitely knows how to show all the beauty of all at the same time. The fiery, warm glow of the fire opal emerges likes fire while water while the sparkling image of Boulder Opal is combined to diamonds and give us sensations of waterfalls and exotic seas.

Desing and creativity determined his immediate success.

He exhibited his works in various Italian art galleries and participated in important international exhibitions.

Finally he decided to open his two exclusive showrooms in the context where his best works and collections have been conceived: Vallecamonica, an hour's drive from Milan.

The continuous search for new technical solutions and the combination of gold with innovative cut precious stones, pearls and corals, makes Mauro Felter a successfull jewellery designer .

His pieces are simply amazing. A combination of unique craftsmanship, design, precious materials and easthetics, they are designed to last for generations.

BUCCELLATI Between past & future

BUCCELLATI Between past & future Tradition, skill, and excellence in handcrafting, using only the finest quality, precious materials. These are the values at the core and essence of Buccellati, a historically established family business of artisans and designers who have crafted the finest Italian jewelry since 1919. Under the Buccellati name, members of the family have preserved its stylistic identity for a hundred years by reviving and protecting centuries-old goldsmithing techniques used in only the most elevated studios of the fine jewelry industry.

At Baselworld 2014, Buccellati charts a new and unexplored category for a high jewelry house of its kind: tech accessories. In true Buccellati style, the brand has created two one-of-a-kind masterpieces that serve to encase the iPhone 5s and the most recent iPad mini.

Beyond function, the collection is a testament to the brand’s unmatched heritage, artisanal capacities, and marks an evolution for the brand as they foray into a new and modern language this year. They are not only new products for high tech devices but as well they reflect techniques, traditions and the know-how and refinement of the brand.

The two tech accessories, both designed with the illustrations of Leonardo da Vinci’s sun in mind, are cast in solid gold, and completely blanketed in Buccellati’s signature, most prized en- graving motifs; one being a technique called Rigato, in which the artisan pulls perfectly straight lines, one by one, across the surface of the gold to achieve a surprisingly real, silk-like texture in the material (a Buccellati hallmark). The surfaces of each piece have been further textured with sculpted sun rays beaming from ten suns, each encrusted with a cluster of diamonds.

A true bridge between past and future, historic and contemporary, it is just as fitting that Unica is the first collection entirely conceived, designed, and art directed by the brand’s next generation designer, Lucrezia Buccellati. Together with her father Andrea, the father/daughter duo announces their official partnership as Creative Directors of the brand at Baselworld 2014. >

Photo courtesy of BUCCELLATI, © BUCCELLATI

Photo courtesy of BUCCELLATI, © BUCCELLATI

>Since 1919, every masterpiece coming out of the high jewelry house has been designed by a Buccellati. The family has preserved their expertise by carefully exposing the upcoming generations from the time they’re young. At any given time, there are two Buccellati members in the design chairs.

Lucrezia explains, “Being part of a family business like ours is a true undertaking from an early age. You must be an expert by the time the bigger responsibilities can be yours. Adopting the DNA of our artisanal traditions is the first step, but at the same time, I had to find my individual contribution that would even- tually move the brand forward together with my father.”

As a result of this thinking, in came the notion that Buccellati could apply its historically kept craft to the fleeting cast of tech accessories like the iPhone and iPad mini cases.Introduced at Baselworld 2014 on March 26th, the radical idea was materialized in full with artistic oversight by Lucrezia and Andrea Buccellati.

In 1919, Mario Buccellati (1891-1965) - the founder of Buccellati - following the steps of his ancestor Contardo, opened his first boutique near the famous Teatro alla Scala in Milan. He invested in and emphasized the importance of employing ancient tools and traditions to bring his creations to life. In time he became one of the world's most recognized jewelry and silverware designers. He opened shops in Florence and Rome, followed by NewYork and Palm Beach, USA.>

>In 2013, the private equity fund Clessidra SGR became lead investing partners in the Buccellati brand, while the family still oversees creative direction over the collection and artisans. Andrea Buccellati is Creative Director and President, Gino oversees Buccellati’s silver business and Maria Cristina Buccellati heads Buccellati’s Global Communications.

The production of all Buccellati collections remains entirely based in Italy, in workshops where such goldsmithing skills like engraving and openwork techniques – both distinctive signatures of the brand – are methodically passed down from father to son. At present, Buccellati produces one of a kind pieces of fine jewelry as well as a core collection of fine timepieces, jewelry and pure silver accessories and tablewares.

The next evolution of the company will ignite abroad, focusing on regions in the Middle Eastern countries, Far East, China and former Soviet regions.

The iPhone 5s case and iPad mini cover became available immediately after Baselworld 2014 and begun a tour of Buccellati boutiques worldwide and in key markets until it lands in the New York City flagship location on Madison Avenue in Manhattan. The objects will retail starting at 150,000 Euro for the iPhone 5s case and 350,000 Euro for the iPad mini cover.

(Notice: iPhone 5s & iPad mini are registered trademarks of Apple Inc.)

Photo courtesy of BUCCELLATI, © BUCCELLATI

www.buccellati.com

Photo courtesy of Martin Katz Š Martin katz

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Renowned for his exquisite taste and an unparalleled eye for transforming stones into artistic creations, Martin Katz founded his eponymous company in 1988.

The company, Martin Katz, Ltd quickly gained international prominence with a clientele that includes Forbes 400 business leaders, US Ambassadors and other individuals of affluence with a collector’s spirit.

Martin’s passion for gems has earned him wide acclaim for designing beautifully-crafted, couture-quality pieces inspired from his love of vintage jewelry - contemporary pieces with an ‘old soul’. Each piece is one-of-a-kind or limited in production, signed, numbered and made with meticulous attention to detail. His work has been auctioned at Christie’s and Sotheby’s with the hammer prices being significantly higher than the original price they sold for in his salon.

Throughout the years, Katz’s creations have adorned many A-list celebrities such as Jessica Biel who wore his earrings at her wedding to Justin Timberlake, Nicole Kidman, Barbra Streisand, Sandra Bullock, Ashley Judd, Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Aniston, Annette Bening, Johnny Depp, Mark Wahlberg, Colin Firth and the list goes on. Having been one of the first to lend jewels to the stars on the Red Carpet, he opened doors for the many others that do so today.

He is a fairy gem father, adorning stars with glittering rocks for their time in the spotlight and he is one of the jewellers with an amazing talent and potential.

Articles about his jewelry are regularly published and many of his spectacular pieces have adorned the covers of the most famous magazines in the world.

His body of work is not limited to jewelry: Katz designed the Victoria’s Secret $5 million diamond bra in 2009, created jeweled sunglasses for Ray-Ban, jeweled cell phone cases for Motorola, designed a $1 million perfume bottle for Donna Karan and most recently helped design a $25,000 a night “Jewel Suite by Martin Katz” at the famed New York Palace hotel.

Katz attended Indiana University, where he began selling jewelry on campus. Upon graduation he moved to Los Angeles and became an associate salesman at the Beverly Hills Laykin et Cie, a high end jewelry salon located inside of the famed I. Magnin specialty stores throughout California, and it was here that he enhanced his knowledge and love for vintage jewelry and rare gem stones. >

Photo courtesy of Martin Katz Š Martin katz

Photos courtesy of Martin Katz Š Martin katz

>The internationally renowned jeweler launched recently his “New York” Collection that takes inspiration from the shapes, colors and skyline of Manhattan. The collection consists of bold and powerful pieces as well as classic jewels that speak to the sophistication and taste of New York.

“New York City is one of the most colorful places in the world,” says Katz. “After spending so much time designing the Martin Katz ‘Jewel Suite’ at The New York Palace, I was inspired by the views from my windows and wanted to design a collection that reflects the incredible architecture, the colors of the city that you don't fully experience when on the ground, and the overall elegance of New York.”

The brilliant combination of timeless and contemporary brought together by Katz creates an awe inspiring creative new way to see the city through the eyes of one of the world’s most famed jewelers: diamond tassel earrings reflect the stunningly tall nature of the Empire State Building; an eight-carat black opal ring evokes the luminous colors of a New York summer; a four-carat cushion rosecut diamond ring mimics the endless appeal of the fantastic white ice of The Rink at Rockefeller Center; while effortless brilliant diamonds in shapes like circles and rectangles are an ode to the geometric shapes of the metropolis called Manhattan.

Today, Martin Katz is exclusively sold at his Beverly Hills boutique and in the world’s finest department store, Bergdorf Goodman in New York City.

www.martinkatz.com

AVAKIAN a family legacy

PhotoS courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

AVAKIAN a family legacy A third-generation family jeweler, Avakian is accustomed to serving royalty, heads of state and the Hollywood elite.

Edmond Avakian brings more than three decades of experience to his role as the founder of Avakian, where he oversees the company’s creative and strategic direction. Possessing a deep commitment to quality and aesthetics, Edmond strives for perfection in every aspect of his work. His artistry is reflected in both the finely crafted pieces he creates, as well as the ambiance of his boutiques.

Having completed his education at the University of California at Berkeley, he joined the family jewelry business in 1976, with a plan to turn the family work shop into an International Household name.

In 1984, the company was relocated to Geneva, Switzerland, the hub for luxury jewelry and watches.

Dedicated to maintaining a memorable brand, Edmond has developed a line of elegant jewelry and unique masterpieces, some of which are inspired by his engineering background. Each collection comes in a unique combination of colors, congruent with Avakian's daring style. Today, Avakian is the trusted jeweler to some of the world's leading dignitaries, Royal Families and celebrities.

With boutiques in Geneva, London, Moscow, Beverly Hills and New York, and plans for Middle East, Asian and Russian expansion, Avakian has long been geared towards clients who seek the extraordinary - from extravagant crowns worn at the weddings of princes and princesses, to elaborate bespoke commissions for governments and oligarchs. Perhaps it’s no surprise then that Avakian jewels are also a regular fixture on celebrities at red carpet events including the Oscars, the Golden Globes and the Cannes Film Festival. >

>At Avakian, design influences are as eclectic and international as our family history. Bulgarian-born, American-educated Edmond Avakian, a civil engineer and a trained gemmologist, joined the jewelery business his parents had started in Lebanon. Edmond would later relocate to Geneva, opening his very first boutique there as well as four more round the world, before appointing his children, Haig and Corinne, as directors of the company.

Today, inspirations for Avakian collections range from the architecture of Byblos, the ancient Phoenician city which forms part of modern-day Lebanon, to the natural beauty of the Riviera.

The Avakian ladies watch collection is named Tzarina, after the Russian word for ‘princess’ and the Bulgarian word for ‘queen’.

Avakian jewelery and watches are focussed on versatility and stunning finish. Women love the way our glamorous designs can be worn just as easily during the day as they can at night. Many collections have interchangeable elements, like the Riviera collection, which allows wearers to switch colored gemstone pendants with a few simple clicks. The vast selection of men’s cufflinks with their playful colored stone combinations and innovative gold colors includes our ultra popular matt black gold finish, and for us a "must-have". How to resist to such beauty and perfection as the emerald & diamond cufflinks ? At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we couldn't ! >

Photos courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

The caché jewellery is a unique collection of tactile rings entirely wrapped in precious colored gemstones inside and out, set with a marquise cut stone surrounded by white diamonds. Caché comes in a choice of blue sapphires, emeralds, rubies, black, white and yellow diamonds. Can you really resist ?

Being a family owned business allows Avakian to respond immediately when clients call them with urgent requests for customised pieces, and in some cases, hand delivery. It means they regularly work with some of the same stone suppliers and the same Swiss and Italian workshops which they have been working with for over 30 years – all of them dedicated to remarkable craftsmanship, be it goldsmithing, enamelling or stone-setting.

It also allows to Avakian to offer a uniquely personal service. In particular in Beverly Hills, against Rodeo Drive’s backdrop of global luxury powerhouses, family-owned Avakian has a special cachet.

Customers visiting the boutique in the legendary Beverly Wilshire hotel know they can speak directly to a member of the Avakian family but also of the unique and prestigious customer service.

One of the secrets of the amazing success of Avakian is that at Avakian, customers are not only seen as customers. They are loyal friends, part of the Avakian family and at Avakian they find jewellery made to last for generations. At Avakian boutiques, they do not try to sell any jewellery, but to answer to the needs of their loyal customers and friends. They know how to assist them to find the one piece they need. They are gemologists and know everything to answer any question their customers may have.

This unique and customer oriented service made Avakian to earn the enormous trust of their VIP clients, which makes Avakian unique and really prestigious.

www.avakian.com

All photos courtesy of AVAKIAN GENEVE, © AVAKIAN GENEVE

Elena

Photo courtesy of Elena Syraka Š Elena Syraka

inspired by eastern light

Syraka

Elena

Recognized for her museum quality designs, Elena Syraka creates exquisite pieces; true art that reflect Greek mythology and her ancient descendants.

Her latest collection “Nour,” meaning light in Arabic, is a unique 45-piece collection of Syraka's finest handmade pieces, which were inspired by Islamic art and after studying the genre for six months the Islamic collection of the Benaki Museum in Athens.

Following a successful showing in Athens in 2012, Cairo and Alexandria in 2013 and New York in spring 2014, her latest exhibition “NOUR” heads to the Museum of Islamic Art of Doha in Qatar in winter 2014.

Her handmade pieces, give a nod to the evolution of Islamic civilization up to the 19th century, Syraka mimics its rich history through her remarkable designs and craftsmanship blending influences of the traditional East with the contemporary West.

Avant-garde, Athens based, jewellery designer Elena Syraka, commenced her studies in fashion and jewellery design with a degree from the renowned Veloudakis School of Fashion in Athens, Greece, followed by a Diploma in Fashion and Jewellery design from ESMOD in Paris, France. During this time, Elena also won first prize in textiles at the EUROMODE TEXTILIA exhibition in Thessaloniki, Greece, in 1991. After that, she went on to study Gemology. >

inspired by eastern light

Syraka

Photo courtesy of ELENA SYRAKA, © Elena Syraka

Photo courtesy of ELENA SYRAKA, © Elena Syraka

> In the 15 years that she has been designing jewellery, Elena has come to be known for the uniqueness of the forms she creates and the use of unconventional materials. Due to their often dramatic character, Elena has regularly been called upon to create pieces for the cinema and theatre and has exhibited her work in both solo and group art exhibitions. She has also been invited to design jewellery lines for a number of renowned fashion designer’s collections as well as designs for international brands; collaborations include her “Absolut Love” handbag for Absolut Vodka’s multi-national ad campaign as well as other projects for prestigious clients such as Clinique, Levi’s, Lacoste and a number of other international brands.

Her successful solo exhibitions have been showcased at the Olga Georganea Gallery in Athens (1997), the Zoumpoulaki Gallery in Athens (1999) and the Museum of Cycladic Art in Greece (2007), in which the artifacts exhibited at the Museum were the inspiration for her “Idols” collection. This exhibition was in fact to prove to be a turning point in her design philosophy; motivated by this collaboration, she began to focus on her Greek heritage and began creating jewellery with a contemporary interpretation.

Her love for Greece and its culture extended into her following collections which focused on combining tradition with modern design, as seen in the “Demi-Gods” collection” inspired by the 12 mythical Gods of Olympus and the “Protect Me” collection, an assortment of evil eyes.

Syraka’s work is unique, authentic, global, reflecting the past yet still on trend. At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we are very happy to introduce our readers to her work and in particular to the amazing NOUR collection which we love and wanted to share with you.

www.elenasyraka.com

ANMOL

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The story Anmol Jewellers is an enigmatic journey towards creating fine pieces of jewellery that last for a lifetime. Ishu Datwani's passion is the premier driving force behind Anmol Jewellers.

Ishu Datwani is the founder, who established this celebrated jewellery brand in 1986. This amazing journey with jewels and gems started after a course he had at the gemological institute whilst in college as a student of commerce. Soon after, Ishu started soliciting business while still studying.

Ishu Datwani is a first generation jeweller and made headway into the jewellery business. He had no Godfathers or advisors, all that he had was a heart filled with hope and a determined mind set. The rest, as they say, is history.

From humble beginnings 25 years ago, today, Anmol Jewellers is counted among India's finest and most revered jewellery brands.

Ishu Datwani , the enterprising power behind Anmol Jewellers, believes in fine jewellery above all else. Quality has always been a virtue of paramount significance. But perfect stones, even exquisitely crafted, need the packaging only a gifted designer can provide and that is precisely what jewellery at Anmol Jewellers is all about, an unfailing instinct in masterful craftsmanship.

Anmol Jewellers define a unique art and grace in everything that drops to form a trinket. Such brilliant features have always set this jewellery apart. This jewellery house prides itself in presenting jewellery that not only spells grace and authenticity but also makes the wearer feel beautiful. 26 years of experience, a jaunt full of trial and error but the desire to create, innovate and evolve every single time is what makes Anmol Jewellers a jewellery house different than the others.

>Today, Anmol Jewellers leads from the front when it comes to being the preferred jewellery brand for precious daughters of leading business and industrial homes in India and overseas, glamorous Bollywood actors, superiorly creative fashion designers or the discerning looking at treating themselves or their beloved to extraordinary jewels.

Call it an expression of love or an inexplicable bond: be that as it may but it is an established fact, without a doubt, that Anmol Jewellers is your true and faithful friend each time you are on the look out for something precious and priceless.

The future is full of dazzling designs and countless creations.

Opening the doors to enchantment, this season, embrace the era of panache with Anmol Jewellers’ collection of Emerald Jewellery.>

>Toying with rules of elegance Anmol Jewellers believes in carving masterpieces that can be adorned as a legacy for generations. The Emerald collection is an ensemble of quintessentially, all one of a kind pieces, thus marking an era of magnificence!

Anmol Jewellers’ Emerald collection is an assortment of fine cut rings and earrings embellished with emeralds and diamonds, infused flawlessly in gold.

Green is the colour of nature and evokes soothing emotions. On the other hand emeralds have always been the beloved jewels of royal courts. Thus wearing Emeralds would bring the perfect blend of tranquility as well as class to your persona. Each piece is unique and contemporary and can be worn with traditional as well as modern attire making each of them, a must have.

www.anmoljewellers.in

All photos, courtesy of ANMOL JEWELLERS © ANMOL JEWELLERS

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LEYLA ABDOLLAHI designer artistry

Photo courtesy of Leyla Abdollahi Š Leyla Abdollahi

LEYLA ABDOLLAHI designer artistry

Bold, beautiful and with a touch of darkness, Leyla Abdollahi’s jewellery successfully demands your attention.

The seductive pieces have a unique edge that appeals to confident sophisticated women who are drawn to strikingly dramatic jewellery with a story to tell.

Based in London, Leyla Abdollahi was born and raised with both Eastern and Western influences. She has a fine arts background in jewellery design, with a BA in Jewellery Design from Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design and studies in gemology. During this period her exquisite designs won a number of awards and were published in several magazines. This exposure led to her being commissioned to create Jewellery for private clients and larger companies both internationally and in the UK. In 2011, Leyla Abdollahi was launched- “I do not simply create jewellery, I create pieces for collectors who want something beautiful to enjoy and treasure”.

Leyla Abdollahi is a label that is unafraid to challenge conventions, explore new materials and push boundaries. Her handcrafted jewellery provokes the kind of visual pleasure that has caught the attention of many industry insiders and has led to collaborations.

Her designs have been garnering attention across the industry, and Leyla – who is also jewellery editor at Urban Life magazine – is definitely one of Great Britain’s hottest new fine jewellers, that you should known and own jewellery creations.

Her jewellery pieces are not only the expression of artistry and perfection. She has a unique way of combining cultures to the modern way of living, while the "secretly" keep a romantic sence of another time.

Her jewellery pieces are definitely created to last. It may sound extreme, but I really do believe that the unique jewellery of Leyla Abdollahi, can be one of the most essential elements one can possess in life.

As she describes her work “My jewellery reflects emotions, passions, and desire with a burst of creativity. I start with a concept that then blossoms into an elegant ornament”.

Photo courtesy of Leyla Abdollahi Š Leyla Abdollahi

Photo courtesy of Leyla Abdollahi Š Leyla Abdollahi

Myth, history and nature are recurrent themes in Leyla Abdollahi’s collections, and are evident in her latest collection- Okeanides, which debuted at London in June 2011. Inspired by nature, and “laced with opulent gems in many hues, the Okeanides collection is enchanting representation of Greek Mythology” and tells ancient tales whilst conveying mystery and offering freedom of interpretation.

When it comes to materials, the collection consists mainly of 18-carat yellow and white gold, with some pieces in the collection created in platinum. The integration of vibrant gems enhances each piece with individual character.

Leyla Abdollahi’s Okeanides collection has not only been given a positive nod by the industry, but Leyla herself has been nominated for UK Designer of the Year 2012 honoured in the ‘Professional Jeweller Hot 100’ for second year around, selected by the Houlden Group as a ‘Designer of Excellence’, shortlisted for the ‘Treasure Designer of the Year’, featured as ‘Designer of the Month’ and winning the ‘Lonmin Design Innovation Award’ for the second year in row.

Extending the parameters of her art, Leyla is currently at the design stage of her additional jewellery range where she would be using silver. The pieces will be carefully crafted and have the same quirky inventive design ethos that her fine jewellery label is now well known for.

The amazing collection Lust & Lure, is a twist combination of two collections in one. Blending colour schemes from the 1920’s into voguish, stylish and modern jewellery with a distinctive touch of designer artistry, while intriguing curves and a carefully selected range of gems such as green emeralds, white diamonds and onyx prevail throughout the collection.

Fascinated by fairy tales and magical stories her new collection Okeanides is inspired by the feminine spirits who animated the ocean waves in Greek mythology. Every piece is lovingly hand crafted in gold and set with vibrant gemstones. Visually stunning the pieces invite you to touch them and explore the tactile world of sensations which the eye can only hint at, and in so doing discover the secrets within each piece.

Expanding internationally, particularly in the Middle East, Asia and the United States, Leyla Abdollahi will continue to create fine jewellery that will deliver an artistic experience that is everlasting.

www.leyla-abdollahi.com

FANOURAKIS Refined design

All photos courtesy of FANOURAKIS © FANOURAKIS

Fanourakis company was founded in 1860 in Heraklion, Crete island, by Thomas Fanourakis.

Constantly searching for its own diverse identity, early it abandoned the more or less classical models and developed special techniques.

Through an extensive network of shops, exclusive representatives, exhibitions and galleries, its jewellery can now be found in almost every major city around the globe.

After four generations and 150 years of uninterrupted operation, the firm came to an age, aquiring a life of its own, not necessarily identified with the one of its owners. This does not mean complacency; a long traditions often proves a trap leading to a steady, sterile repetitiviness, hiding the lack of creative imagination, which is indispensable in the jewellery business.

Lina Diamandopoulou Fanourakis has been designing the entire collection of the Fanourakis jewellery line for the past 30 years, overseeing the production process to its finest detail. She has been working at the company’s workshop with a small, yet, very specialized team of goldsmiths and gem-setters.

Based in Athens, but born in Thessaloniki in northern Greece, Lina crafts timeless and elegant designs from precious metals and rose cut diamonds, merging the arts of sculpture and jewelry design. She studied Law at the University of Athens and occupied herself with costume design followed by several years of intensive exploration in jewelry design and fine arts, both in Athens and London. Since 1980 she is the exclusive designer and director of manufacturing “Fanourakis jewelry�. >

Lina is inspired by the stained glass windows of cathedrals, and how they use light to catch the eye with glamour, not glitz.

Using the prime materials of high end goldsmithery, she is designing jewellery that transcends the logic of vanity and talks straight to the heart. Laboured with humour and professionalism, her designs do not attempt to impress, nor is there anything created if not regarded essential, sincere and timely. The result is a very unique and highly distinquished “universe”.

The high lights of Lina’s jewelry are: The use of rose-cut diamonds embedded in white gold, which, as light goes through them, gives the impression of a cathedrals’ stained glass windows and the way she treats gold, almost like fabric, reminding us of gros-grain ribbons and silk gauze without ever loosing the implacable strength of Geometry. Her feeling about jewelry is that it should be a source of joy to the one who wears it and that’s why her designs can be worn with casual or more formal outfit.

By constantly searching for new lines and forms and by experimenting with new techniques and methods Lina Fanourakis aims to express the joy of life and beauty, to find accomplices in her aesthetic world, to wake up our dreaming capacity.

Her approach to jewelry is very personal and artistic with a particular sculptural quality and a pronounced sense of humour and theatricality.

Overall, her work is gaining recognition as an original piece of art.

www.fanourakis.gr

Photo courtesy of Ana De Costa Š Ana De Costa

Ana De Costa artisan fine jewellery

www.anadecosta.com

Since graduating from Central St. Martins in 2005, Ana de Costa has made a remarkable impact on the jewellery industry. Her pieces reflect her freethinking bohemian spirit and passion for jewellery.

She demonstrates a refreshing way of creating fine jewellery, from the spiritual narrative themes used, through to their execution in pieces of jewellery. Fine materials and craftsmanship are paramount to support the bespoke side of her collections and her private commission work.

Throughout this, Ana clearly demonstrates that she is a designer of our time and a young rising British talent to watch.

It is not surprising that with this winning combination of craftsmanship and quirky design, that Ana de Costa has caught the eye of journalists and international buyers alike. The jewellery editor of British Vogue, Carol Woolton has always been a fan and included her in the 2005 ‘The List.’ This was a definitive guide to the top 100 creative people to watch for the following year. Carol’s support was further extended when she nominated Ana as a ‘Bright Young Gem’ in 2006, giving her the opportunity to showcase her beautiful jewels at IJL. In late 2007, Ana launched her first fine jewellery collection since graduating, titled ‘Mystical Tarot.’ It was inspired by a rare deck of tarot cards and introduced a new design concept to Ana. Her designs for this collection form a narrative, following the story of the characters that appear on the cards and translated directly into jewellery. The launch of this collection was enhanced by the luxurious surroundings of Home House and was sponsored by Perrier Jouet, Kiehls and Godiva. The display of the jewellery in teacups was inspired by a trip to Japan, which Ana won through UK Trade and Investment in 2006. Ana won a further trade mission to New York in 2007, again with UKTI. Ana made her catwalk debut in 2008 when she was invited by Swarovski to take part in their prestigious ‘Runway Rocks’ show as part of the first Coutts London Jewellery Week. As a dedicated colourist, Ana selected a combination of colourways, golden chains and a light butter coloured napa leather glove for her piece. The latter part of 2008 saw Ana win the coveted ‘Young Designer of the Year’ award in the UK jewellery awards. This was a huge accolade for Ana and created further excitement around this rising jewellery star. It was also the first year she exhibited at the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Fair, providing a platform for Ana to nurture the bespoke commission side of her business. To date this year, de Costa has won the ‘Coutts New Jeweller’ award meaning that she has been invited to exhibit throughout CLJW in June 2009. >

Photo courtesy of Ana De Costa Š Ana De Costa

Photos courtesy of Ana De Costa Š Ana De Costa

> Today, artisan fine jeweller, Ana de Costa introduces her third fine jewellery collection since her award winning collection/receiving high acclaim with ‘Mystical Tarot’ in 2007.

Her new designs, titled Henna and spiritual Gandhi are inspired by the concept of henna and follow a mystical and spiritual path, creating an award winning aesthetic which Ana’s name has become synonomous with since graduating from Central St. Martins, London in 2005.

The collection draws inspiration from a selection of motifs seen in Henna designs, including the paisley and exotic lotus flower. It is also inspired by some of Mahatma Gandhi’s most famous quotes, including: ‘An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind’, ‘There is more to life than simply increasing its speed’, ‘The best way to find yourself is to loose yourself in the service of others’. They act as a powerful reminder of the strength of the human character and what can be achieved with passion and belief.

The collection includes sixteen elegant pieces including dress rings and bracelets, long hanging sautoir style pendants and chandelier style drop earrings. Each piece is delicately handcrafted in London, using traditional British fine jewellery techniques and is fused with Ana’s signature avant garde design style. Inspired by the way in which different coloured gemstones can be combined with coloured golds and platinum, Ana was greatly inspired by the colourways she has created in this collection- it is made up of 18ct yellow gold set with tsavorites and paved natural cognac diamonds, 18ct rose gold set with natural cognac diamonds and platinum, set with high quality white diamonds.

The rich decadence of the Art Nouveau period and the glamour of this bygone era can be seen in the collection- the paisley pieces feature Ana’s use of flowing and undulating lines, which weave in and out, twisting around each other to create a feeling of negative and positive space within the paisley motif. The abstract pear shaped pieces are a new development in Ana’s aesthetic and clearly display how she has used her knowledge of gemstones to create a mass of colour through a certain formation of the tsavorites and using very little gold to set them. A dramatic tsavorite drop earring, with mixed pear shape gemstones, designed to be worn with a smaller stud version with cognac diamonds, shows an example of Ana’s quirky approach to fine jewellery,and her innate sense of styling jewellery. The two beautiful diamond set lotus petal pendants are designed to be taken off their chains and to be displayed as objet d’art on tiny carved bejewelled stands of their own.

At the core of this collection lies Ana’s multifaceted personality. An elegant and feminine fine jewellery collection, with quirky undertones throughout. This is combined with Ana’s bohemian spirit and is informed through areas of interest in her life; mysticism and spirituality and amidst the culture of East London. Ana clearly demonstrates that she is a designer of our time, who can interpret zeitgeist powerfully and is proving to be a key trend maker in the world of fine jewellery. She is a young rising British talent to watch.

Nikos Koulis Mediterranean flair

Photo courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS

Greek born and raised, Nikos Koulis is a fine jewellery designer with international appeal, creating exquisite pieces with a Mediterranean flair. Koulis blends diamonds of various cuts and colors, gold, rubies, emeralds, pearls with unexpected materials, working with demanding techniques and detailed craftsmanship. With a subversive eye, Koulis references the ancient Cyclades islands in his designs, mixing traditional symbols with a luxe, rock-chic aesthetic, he creates exquisite jewellery, theatrical and sculptural at the same time. The result of his work is a harmonious integration of precious materials, creating jewellery of high quality and aesthetics.

While studying literature at university, he was simultaneously having glyptography and gemology lessons in both Athens and London. His exploration of the world of gemstones led him to GIA (Gemological Institute of America) where he completed his studies on gemology and jewellery design, following his family tradition in the gem wholesale market.

After his studies at the Gemological Institute of America, he decided to establish his own brand, Nikos Koulis Jewels, in 2006, showcasing a distinguished aesthetic profile and a profound crafting ethos in jewelry making.

His jewellery collections encapsulate a conceptual nature and a demanding tailored technique. Gold in every color along with diamonds and colored, customized cut stones are being transformed into unrepeated works of art: perforated and fluid creations capturing body movement and shape, multifaceted and handcrafted jewels showcasing perfectionism and sophisticated intricacy. >

www.nikoskoulis.gr

Photos courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS

Photos courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS

> His designs are immediately embraced by people and soon most of the city’s upper class becomes his customers. Among his well known customers from around the world are Valentino Caravani, Rihanna, Giorgio Armani and Daphne Guinness. His creativity, vision and craftsmanship made him a key trend maker in the world of fine jewellery.

Koulis' work reflects his Mediterranean spirit and multiple influences from Ancient Greek culture, Byzantine motifs, elements of nature, shapes derived from art and architecture as well as visionary symbols. Characterized by an elaborate technique and austere craftsmanship, Koulis experiments with bold materials and seeks for diversity in terms of shape and design.

The common denominator of his work is the transformation of the classic through a contemporary angle, revisiting diachronic staples in an intricate way. In the entire spectrum of his work, he makes an interesting journey through time; combining Byzantine patterns from 4th to 7th century blended with strict geometrical forms, visionary symbols of paradise with austere elements of ancient monuments and vivid Greek colours with quintessential Western minimalism.

His jewellery has hidden secrets. They are a contemporary interpretation of literary works and influences of great novels and authors. His literary background is hidden but almost visible in every piece, giving to us pieces with long lasting value and edgy aesthetic appeal, beyond the boundaries of fashion.

In his latest Acrobat collection, Nikos Koulis looks beyond his native Greece. Incorporating both sharp lines and gentle curves, the movement and fluidity in Koulis' jewels could be seen as the artistic expression of visual abstraction, a jewellery composition which exists with a degree of independence from visual references in the world. It is definitely a unique way to express his love for literature and visual arts.

Nikos Koulis is present in fine jewelerry exhibitions worldwide, such as the prestigious Basel World and Couture Las Vegas, where his brand is appraised by field experts and buyers internationally. As an outcome of this, his pieces can be found in key stores around the world, such as Colette and Montaigne Market in Paris, Matches in London, Tsum in Moscow, Restir in Tokyo and Alchemist in Miami. His aesthetics and amazing work gave him a press coverage in international editions of fashion magazines.

The summer of 2014 Nikos Koulis opens his first conceptual boutiques in Athens and Mykonos. Reflecting the designer’s eclectic philosophy and capturing the flair of the Mediterranean summer, the Mykonos boutique establishes a new concept of luxury through the integration of an ascetic aesthetic with multiple references in the Cycladic tradition.

The marble counter reminiscing an altar where the ‘mystery’ of showcasing the jewels is being held, combined with the tailor-made pews from the same material, redefine the position of the client toward his object of desire, establishing respect and proximity.

The boutique displays selected pieces from all the collections of the designer and features exclusively a men’s collection, as well as the new pieces previewed in Baselworld from Fontana, Spectrum and Echo collections, and the new ones presented recently in Couture Las Vegas, the Acrobat and the V collection.

Photo courtesy of Shawish Genève, © Shawish Genève

Shawish Genève Pas de deux

Shawish Genève Pas de deux Shawish Genève is experienced as a veritable adventure – without the weight of past legitimacy and free of all constraints. The young team around the Shawesh brothers cultivate the same company spirit – motivated and ready to build a different future.

The Shawish Genève founders are two brothers: Mohamed and Majdy Shawesh.

Together, they founded Shawish Genève in Geneva in 2008. The “wesh” in Shawesh became “wish” for “make a wish”.

Born in 1986, Mohamed Shawesh, the Founder & Creator, is idealistic, passionate and daring. He comes from a Libyan family that has been involved in the luxury business for several generations especially in the world of international trading in precious stones.

His constant daily contact with the most beautiful gemstones fired his imagination. In addition to immense creativity, his personality is brimming with boundless enthusiasm and energy.

Majdy Shawesh was born in 1988. His knowledge of the London market as well as his social connections make him an ideal partner for the development of Shawish Genève. He also played a key role in developing the brand’s first flagship store in the Chelsea district. >

Photo courtesy of Shawish Genève, © Shawish Genève

Photo courtesy of Shawish Genève, © Shawish Genève

>Shawish Genève is also a fresh approach that offers jewellery a new vision, a responsiveness, a dynamism and an energy that is characteristic of the current young generation. All Shawish Genève’s pieces are hand-made using refined techniques and manufactured from the finest materials to the highest quality. These jewels show the brand’s desire to assimilate its core values into the products, namely uniqueness, innovation and design creativity.

Shawish Genève collaborates with a team of worldleading craftsmen specialised in gem setting, micropave setting, hand engraving and guilloch enamelling, to reach new levels of perfection and highlighting the refinement and finesse of high end jewellery.

Shawish Genève offers a collection perfectly marrying the lightness of childhood, stylistic originality and technical skill.

Jewellery creations are transformed into authentic legends. The fairy-tale is staged through the sparkle of a precious stone combined with the essence of hand craftsmanship.

Shawish Genève becomes the accomplice of the most improbable visions and Mohamed Shawesh heralds a new era in working with precious stones. In 2012, Shawish unveil the first world's all diamond ring cut entirely from one 150-carat stone, that took more than a year to be cut.

Through its commitment to realise its clients’ wishes, Shawish Genève offers also the opportunity to create a unique jewel together with you. After a private appointment, essential to understand your needs and emotions, Shawish Genève will retranscribe your feelings in an exceptional customised creation.

The quick development of the company provided them with the chance of conquering London and Dubai.

www.shawish.ch

adler Caméléon collection

adler Caméléon collection

With a flair for fusing East with West and a passion for running a truly independent family business, the House of Adler has long been at the centre of the jewellery world.

The Adler story began in bustling Istanbul in the late 19th century, a time when the city was a world-class capital of jewellery. Jacques Adler, a Viennese trained goldsmith, moved to Istanbul to establish a workshop producing jewels that were soon sought after by royalty.

Almost a century later, his grandson Franklin Adler transported the company to another global jewellery capital, Geneva. Till this day, from its Geneva headquarters, the Adler family is intimately involved with every aspect of the business – buying and polishing gemstones, designing and crafting jewellery and running an exclusive network of boutiques in Geneva, London, Hong Kong and Gstaad. From the window displays to the interior detailing, from the luscious oriental rugs on the boutique floors to the warm curves of its jewellery designs, Adler continues to bring together the West’s technical excellence with the magic and exoticism of the East.

For Adler, jewellery embodies the pinnacle of human creativity. To be a chameleon means to listen to one’s desires, to change appearance in response to an urge, a whim, or a need for freshness. >

>The “Caméléon” collection includes jewels that let you try and switch different colours; they can take you far away, or bring you back to familiar shores. Adler designs a pair of interchangeable rings that adapts to all possible moods.

This collection celebrates the union between curves and straight lines, magic and reason. It stimulates change and exploration, sophistication and simplicity, with a large palette of sparkling colours that are interwoven. Young, flexible, dynamic, bold: the woman who wears these jewels shares these features with Adler’s "Caméléon“.

“For more than 125 years Adler has devoted its expertise to transforming the most exquisite and precious materials into unique luxury jewellery adornments,” says Leylâ Adler.

The Caméléon collection is designed for women who know to answer to their most precious desires, but want to be flexible and unique at the same time. It is a unique collection, who will offer you the luxury needed with sophistication though simplicity. >

>Minimalist design is stripped of superfluous elements, shapes and textures. Its purpose is to make the product to stand out and be the focal point, to bring the most important content to the forefront, to minimize distractions for the user while making it functional and engaging.

In the case of Adler Joailliers, they succeed it, because they have the experience, the crafsmanship and the know-how that allows them to offer you this unique and individual experience; Adler’s Caméléon jewels are sensual, naturally beautiful and with the minimalism required for the contemporary woman who wants jewellery that can be worn at any moment.

Discover the entire "Caméléon" collection in ADLER boutiques & selected stores worldwide

www.adler-joailliers.com

JOIN US The main mission of the Jewellery Historian is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects, with the goal of raising the awareness of jewellery design as a form of creative expression.

If you are a jewellery brand or designer and you would like your work to be featured in the Jewellery Historian, contact us. info@jewelleryhistorian.com

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Photo courtesy of LEYLA ABDOLLAHI Š LEYLA ABDOLLAHI