Jewellery Historian, issue #18 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian

INSIDE THIS ISSUE “At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we feature exclusively jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality.”

Conrado / SHUTTERSTOCK . COM

9 The essential role of creativity, of this allegorical dream, is that like the fables of ancient mythology, is a veil that must be lifted to uncover the truth. Our founder & editor-in-chief in his Editor’s Letter, welcomes you and invites you to discover the innovative vision of those artists, those visionaries that invite you to lift the veil of the dream to show you the truth of beauty, of creativity and their own vision of our own future.

At the Jewellery Historian we love jewellery and timepieces. Discover the latest news from around the world in our news column. From auctions, to world events and new collections, OUR NEWS introduce you to everything you must know at the exact time you need to know it.

12 Could the concept of ‘less is more’ apply to Haute Joaillerie, which usually amazes us with recordbreaking carats, rare flawless qualities and theatrical dimensions? ‘Signature de Chanel’, the latest Haute Joaillerie collection from Chanel – unveiled during January 2016 Paris Couture week – seems to

29 Photo courtesy of CHANEL FINE JEWELRY © CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

have reconciled the two.

Jewellery Historian Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos Gemology Department Editor Eva Kountouraki Haute Joaillerie Department Editor Olivier Dupon --Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier --Columnists Eva Kountouraki ( Breathtaking beauty of Gems) Olivier Dupon ( The art of creativity / Haute Joaillerie) --Contributors Martin Huynh , Christina Rodopoulou --Creative Jewellery Historian Production Jewellery Historian Publishing 16ml & Homo Evolution --Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, Freepik, The stocks Cover Kl Petro / Shutterstock. com --Advertising info@jewelleryhistorian.com Website www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-mail info@jewelleryhistorian.com --FREE DIGITAL COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2016 All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” and/or logo, may not be reproduced without prior written consent of the founder of magazine.

tinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages & e-magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohib-

Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of

ited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or dis-

Photo courtesy of JOHN RUBEL © JOHN RUBEL

From Budapest to Place Vendôme, and from the Fifth Avenue to the most prestigious auction rooms, discover the family history and the rich heritage of this century old Maison, a confidential joaillier for connoisseurs keen to the true sense of luxury, a s e c r e t i ve s e n s e o f t r a n s m i s s i o n b e t we e n generations.

61 There is no better way to capture an important and

intimate moment than by associating it with the offering of a fine jewel. Witness the magic first (the ‘Legends in Love’ exhibits), at the new temporary exhibition by Chaumet, in their ‘ephemeral museum’.

111 Bayco jewelry effortlessly mixes old and new trends: its pieces are often influenced by the Mogul era, jewelry of the Indian maharajahs, and classical jewelry, which makes the beauty of each stone stand out. Jewelry is eternal; its beauty never dies, so old designs and ideas live again when paired with a new neck or wrist.

Photo courtesy of CHAUMET © CHAUMET

hand, and through the love life of historical figures

123 We all long to find companions in life; in fact, most species do, and that includes our own. Boucheron’s Collection of Animals, whose history dates back to the early beginnings of the eponymous house, is a Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON

treasure trove of the most precious kind of companion. A fabulous and dazzling bestiary.

It came to us through the centuries and entire fortunes were spent on this ultimate symbol of luxury. Over time, lace ceased

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to be the prerogative of the aristocracy but remained a symbol of luxury, sensuality and femininity. In creating the Lace collection, with its intricate and ethereal patterns of gold and precious stones, Jewellery Theatre has endeavoured to pay homage to all the lace weaving artisans world wide.

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Photo courtesy of HEMMERLE © HEMMERLE

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In her Breathtaking beauty of gems column, Eva Kountouraki talks about some materials on this planet that have always touched the hearts of humans, no matter the people’s cultural background or their socioeconomic position. Some people hold the warm glow of gold in their hearts and unconditionally donate their light to every person who has the luck to stay or walk by them. This is also true for a luminous gem of many qualities, this special one we call

An “esthète” is a person who has or professes to have refined sensitivity toward the beauties of art or nature. In each issue, discover the personal choice of our editor-in-chief, in his esthète column.

193 Untamed and Exotic, the Ulysse Nardin Royal Python Skeleton Tourbillon Showcases a Design Evolution. Lush like the jungle, this “call of the wild” timekeeper is as original in style as it is in makeup. A limited edition of 18 pieces in rose gold 4N, the Royal Python Skeleton Tourbillon presents

195 Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN

a fearless character intended for the uninhibited at heart.

Photo courtesy of HARRY KOTLAR © HARRY KOTLAR

Amber.

201 Style icon David Beckham has shot his latest H&M campaign for the launch of the spring 2016 Modern Essentials selected by David Beckham collection.The campaign highlights David’s role as a style leader to millions of men around the world. For David, it’s about mixing the traditions of menswear with fresh ideas that move menswear forward. The pieces he wears in the film, all selected by David from the Modern Essentials collection, are the perfect example of his timeless style.

In every issue, for Jewels we Love, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. Previously known as “Our Faves”, this new column introduces you to our favorite jewellery, designed by the most talented

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jewellery designers.

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In every issue, Inspirations, introduce you to the latest trends in interior design, prêt-à-porter, accessories, travel, books and lifestyle. This new columns welcomes our new strategy to feature the best of design, as requested by you, our readers.

Our Address Book in the end of our issue contains all brands featured in this issue and the official websites where you can find more information

about each brand.

“The best kept secret in the world of luxury”

www.jewelleryhistorian.com

Mayer George / SHUTTERSTOCK . COM

Jewellery Historian

| EDITOR’S LETTER

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER Communication can best be summarized as the transmission of a message from a sender to a receiver in an understandable manner. The sender-receiver model is the simplest communication model. The sender has an idea or a concept and wants the receiver to interpret it, understand it and appreciate it. How the receiver will translate this message depends on his personal inclination and cultural background. Some people may interpret the as provocative, others as nothing special, and some may understand the hidden messages, and understand the value hidden. Contemporary vision may disturb. Amy Lowel once said that art is the desire of a man to express himself, to record the reactions of his personality to the world he lives in. Some people consider that art is only a specific view and perception, so unique that we should not have to put new things in. Nowadays, most people understand that the past feeds the present and the link is symbolized perfectly in art and culture. They understand that there is not an objective definition of beauty. All definitions amount to the same thing; that art is that which makes beauty manifest, and beauty is that which pleases without exciting desire. The artist is the opposite of the politically minded individual, the opposite of the reformer, the opposite of the idealist. The artist does not tinker with the universe, he recreates it out of his own experience and understanding of life, as Henry Miller said. The perception of beauty, for artists is different and innovative. Like novelists, fashion designers, jewelry designers, all artists have an obligation towards humanity, to say things they see that most of us yet cannot. Schumann once said that the duty of artists is to send light into the darkness of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hearts. Many people may not understand them, other may consider their vision as provocative, but their vision is innovative and after few years people will understand and appreciate the honesty of their vision. After all, as Aaron Howard said, art is...the spirit of free people, it's a question mark in the minds of those who want to know what's happening. The essential role of creativity, of this allegorical dream, is that like the fables of ancient mythology, is a veil that must be lifted to uncover the truth. The main benefit of the dream is to clearly delimit the allegorical fiction and domestic mediation with the unusual universe. Art is not vulgarity, but a different perception of our own future, that we cannot all see. Art is our emotions flowing in a river of imagination. An artist is a visionary consenting to share his vision of the future with the actual world. In this issue, I would like to invite you, like we do with our amazing team in every issue, to discover the innovative vision of those artists, those visionaries that invite you to lift the veil of the dream to show you the truth of beauty, of creativity and their own vision of our own future.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

CONTRIBUTORS

As long as he could remember, Olivier Dupon has always been passionate about how ideas can translate into designs, and as a result, he is fascinated by the umpteen creative approaches taken by many independent practitioners. He is now an expert in the fields of lifestyle and fashion, reveling in exposing these talents to a wider audience. While he began his career at Christian Dior, and then worked as a buyer and project manager for several large retail companies before running his own lifestyle boutique for several years, now based in London, he scouts international markets in search of exciting names in Art & Craft, with a focus on jewellery makers and splendid precious designs. His previous books include The New Artisans (2011), The New Jewelers (2012), The New Pâtissiers (2013), Floral Contemporary (2014), Encore! The New Artisans (2015), and Shoe: Contemporary Footwear by Inspiring Designers (2015) all published by Thames & Hudson. His new book on luxury jewellery will be published in Autumn 2016. For the Jewellery Historian, in his The Art of Creativity column, Olivier Dupon exposes inspiring, intriguing at time, and captivating stories through the presentation of talents or the exposé of current topics, all centered around creativity in today’s high-end fine jewelry.

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of polished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California, US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students-famous professionals from around world. Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful buys and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gem-passionates. For the Jewellery Historian, in her The breathtaking beauty of gems column, she introduces you to a breathtaking gemstone in every issue. Eva is also the Department editor of the gemology department of the Jewellery Historian.

Olivier is also the Department editor of the Haute Joaillerie department.

Peter Kotoff / SHUTTERSTOCK . COM

Jewellery Historian

NEWS

S OT H E BY ’ S Sotheby's Hong Kong to Offer De Beers Millennium Blue Diamond

Sotheby’s Hong Kong is honoured to present the ‘De Beers Millennium Jewel 4’, a rare and superb Oval Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond weighing 10.10 carats – the largest oval fancy vivid blue diamond ever to appear at auction (Est. HK$235 – 280 million / US$30 – 35 million*), at the Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale on 5 April 2016. Offered for sale from an Asian private collection, ‘De Beers Millennium Jewel 4’ is the only oval-shaped stone among the twelve rare diamonds eleven blue and one colourless – that form the worldrenowned De Beers Millennium Jewels collection unveiled by De Beers in 2000 in celebration of the millennium. Each of the eleven blue diamonds in the collection boasts a combination of colour intensity, even saturation and brilliance that are rivalled by few other stones.

coloured diamonds has gone from strength to strength and this spring we are thrilled to present the ‘De Beers Millennium Jewel 4’, the largest oval fancy vivid blue diamond ever to appear at auction. Fifteen years ago I had the great opportunity of seeing this magnificent stone for the first time and it is an absolute delight now to have it in one’s hand, to admire it again and to offer it for auction in Asia. This beautiful blue stone combining Nature’s rare beauty, superlative colour, unusual shape and illustrious provenance offers yet another wonderful collecting opportunity for connoisseurs worldwide. De Beers Millennium Jewels: A Once-in-aMillennium Experience To celebrate the millennium in 2000, De Beers, together with The Steinmetz Group, showcased an exceptional collection of rare and valuable diamonds, namely the ‘De Beers Millennium Jewels’, in a specially designed exhibit at London’s Millennium Dome. Assembled over decades, the collection consisted of the 203.04-carat colourless diamond ‘Millennium Star’ and eleven phenomenal blue diamonds of various shapes and sizes, totalling 118 carats, all expertly cut and polished. Nine out of the eleven blue diamonds have been graded by the GIA as of Fancy Vivid colour, the highest possible colour grading for coloured diamonds, and two of Fancy Intense colour. All of them originate from the Cullinan Mine inSouth Africa and each was specially inscribed with a De Beers Millennium number using a proprietary branding technique. Since their initial appearance at the Millennium Exhibition in 2000, only one of these diamonds have ever come into the open market, when Sotheby’s Hong Kong sold the ‘De Beers Millennium Jewel 11’, a 5.16-carat Internally Flawless Pear-shaped Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond, in April 2010.

“Blue diamonds of any intensity of colour are amongst the rarest of all gems. Highly saturated blue diamonds over ten carats combined with an Internally Flawless clarity grade are extremely rare. There have been fewer and fewer new rough diamonds discovered over the last decade that produce this colour. Most of the recent diamonds offered for sale in this category are coming from private collections—not diamond mines.” said Tom Moses, Executive Vice President and Chief Research and Laboratory Officer, GIA The ‘De Beers Millennium Jewel 4’ will be exhibited in New York, London (15 March) and Geneva (16 March) on an international itinerary, and in Singapore (13 – 14 March), Taipei (19 – 20 March) and Hong Kong (1 – 4 April) in Asia before going under the hammer on 5 April at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman, Asia, and Chairman International Jewellery, Asia, said, “Over the years Sotheby’s has had the honour to bring to the market many important coloured diamonds, including the Blue Moon of Josephine that set the world auction record for any diamond last November. The market for

For more information, exhibition dates & locations visit www.sothebys.com

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Jewellery Historian

| NEWS

U LYS S E N A R D I N Ulysse Nardin Enchants with Limited-edition Hourstriker “Horse”

A noble creature ever-present in great battles, land crossings, humble work and elite competitions, the horse shares a deep connection with human beings. They are our quiet confidants, filled with a sense for freedom, independence and service. Proud and regal, the horse is equally mystifying as it is enchanting, exuding a unique wisdom unlike any other. Powerful in stature, warm in expression, the horse connects with our hearts on many levels. Ulysse Nardin celebrates this extraordinary animal with its Hourstriker Horse. Crafting a collection of 28 pieces in 18ct rose gold or platinum, each edition features hand-carved Jaquemarts on a genuine black onyx dial. One of the rare masters of high horology to use Jaquemarts, Ulysse Nardin is also one of the earliest watchmakers to fuel the rebirth of the striking mechanism. In this sound-motion coupling, Jaquemarts move in synchronicity with each strike of a gong. A sonnerie en passant with a rare automatic movement, the Hourstriker Horse plays on hour and half hours on demand or can be set to “gong” the time in passing. Every time the hammer hits the gong, the horse Jaquemarts perform in concert. Postured between ten and 12 o’clock, and one and three o’clock, the horse Jaquemarts portray two stances. In one, the horse is showing fear, “rearing up” to fight or flee. In the other, it is racing with purpose – either toward or away from something. Interpretation is left to the wearer. Both horse figurines radiate stunning beauty, as seen in their deeply chiseled muscles, pronounced facial features, and long and voluminous mane and tail. Set within a 42mm round case, the watch is artistic as it is functional. Ample in size, it is also self-winding, has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and is water resistant to 30 meters. Its face cover is sapphire crystal, ensuring it is anti-reflective, highly durable and scratch resistant. Its caseback, also constructed of sapphire crystal, protects its complex inner workings while allowing for visibility. A tribute to the valiant horse, the timepiece is another example of music and motion telling time in rhythm within the iconic Hourstriker family. www.ulysse-nardin.com

Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN

Jewellery Historian

| NEWS

B A S E LWO R L D 2 016 COUNTDOWN TO THE ONE UNMISSABLE TRENDSETTING SHOW BASELWORLD 2016!

Baselworld 2016 is in the starting blocks poised for take-off. Anticipation rises as the one unmissable trendsetting show gets ready to capture the hearts and minds of the 150,000 attendees and 4,000 press representatives as well as consumers around the world. The premier show representing all sectors of the world’s watch and jewellery industry goes live from 17th to 24th March, 2016!

as machinery and other suppliers to the industry as every year 1,500 brands from 40 countries exhibit in spectacular pavilions on 141,000 m2. On hand to witness all of this innovation and creativity are no fewer than 4,000 of the world’s most prestigious press who deliver up-to-date editorials to consumers in every corner of the planet. A tribute to the high-value of this show for Switzerland and the wider world, Baselworld is inaugurated every year by a member of the Swiss Federal Council. This year, Federal Councillor Simonetta Sommaruga, Head of the Federal Department of Justice and Police, will grace the show with her presence and officially open Baselworld on Thursday March 17, 2016.

T H E U N R I VA L E D P R E M I E R MARKETPLACE FOR AN ENTIRE INDUSTRY What exemplifies Baselworld is its unique ability to regroup the biggest and most prestigious watch and jewellery brands in the world, emerging design talent, the finest retailers and the global press. Over and above that, Baselworld has firmly established its role as the most important platform that showcases those innovations, creations and brand new collections that set the trends and determine what will be worn and most talked about in the coming year. “There are always collections at Baselworld that stir up excitement with our customers,” says Greg Simonian, President of Westime, USA, who continues saying that he “gets text messages from clients-starting the first day of Baselworld!— asking me to get such-and-such a novelty that they just read about on a blog or social media from the show. So you can imagine how that anticipation builds all year!” Baselworld is also the leading global event for diamonds, gemstones and pearl merchants as well

N E W T R E N D S R E V E R B E R AT E AROUND THE WORLD Baselworld has achieved this unrivaled status as the one unmissable show for the watch and jewellery industry clearly because the amazement it creates reverberates around the world, extending well beyond those professionals who attend the show to the consumers who know that what is presented at Baselworld will be the must haves in watch and jewellery fashion. BASELWORLD 2016 WILL BE HELD FROM 17 - 24 MARCH 2016.

Photo courtesy of BASELWORLD © BASELWORLD

Jewellery Historian

| NEWS

M A R I A KOVA D I The ANIMALI collection to be introduced at Baselworld 2016

Beautiful and enchanting creatures share this wondrous world with us. Animali collection explores the charm and the magic of the animal world in an ironic way, with a modern take on the classic creatures. Playful animals in this mesmerizing collection not only represent life mysteries and ancient wisdom but also carry various positive symbolic associations. The spirit, mystery and magic captured in stories behind each creation hide a captivating combination of modern narratives with a fairytale world. Created exclusively for Baselworld 2016, this collection aims to mesmerize and transport you to a magical world of beautiful creatures, which aims to excite and fascinate, drawing you closer to the beautiful things in life. www.mariakovadi.com

Photo courtesy of MARIA KOVADI © MARIA KOVADI

Jewellery Historian

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A N TO N I N I The New Beauty of Geometry: ANTONINI Jewels Introduces Siracusa

Continuing their play on geometry, Antonini builds on these elements as the inspiration for the new 2016 collection, Siracusa. The name Siracusa references the birthplace of Archimedes, a Sicilian city, rich in Greek history from where a great deal of philosophical and mathematical thought is derived.

designers, Sergio Antonini designed a new line of high-end stylish jewelry, reinterpreting the family tradition with reimagined designs. Within a few years ANTONINI won the “Diamond International Award”, the most famous award in the jewel-making industry. Almost 30 years later the undeniable trend-setter, Sergio Antonini, continues to interpret the brand's history as creative d i r e c t o r, d e s i g n i n g e x t r a o r d i n a r y collections and unique pieces.

The Siracusa collection plays with geometrical shapes such as circles, ellipses and curves intersecting to form crosses and orbits. Distinguished by the clean gold lines each piece is then illuminated with singular rows of bright white diamonds.

Internationally acclaimed, stars such as Carrie Underwood, Anne Hathaway, Halle Berry, Taylor Swift, Selena Gomez, Alessandra Ambrosio and many more have worn Antonini.

The centerpiece of the collection is a large infinity cuff whose design is then translated to rings and earrings. The rings are offered in different sizes, including midi ring options, designed to be worn, on the same finger at different heights or across multiple fingers lending themselves to the popularized layered look.

ANTONINI has a showroom in Milan and is available at: www.luisaviaroma.com, Cusi Montenapoleone and Portofino, as well as a network of retailers in the US, Canada, Japan, Russia and former Soviet republics. www.antonini.com

The Siracusa collection is available in polished yellow gold with white diamonds or polished white gold with full pave white diamonds for an even brighter version. ANTONINI jewels are made exclusively in Italy and reflect a powerful bond with the city of Milan, and it’s fashion and jewelry-making traditions. Founded in Milan in 1919, the ANTONINI brand instantly became a “must have” of the Italian aristocracy. In 1989 the third g e n e r a t i o n o f A N TO N I N I j e w e l r y

Photo courtesy of ANTONINI © ANTONINI

Jewellery Historian

| NEWS

H AU T E J OA I L L E R I E The Jewellery Historian appoints Olivier Dupon as department editor of the newly introduced column about Fine Jewellery, a delicate art-form of dazzling beauty. The Jewellery Historian is happy to introduce a new column, the Haute Joaillerie column and the appointment of Olivier Dupon as the department editor of the new column.

generation within a prestigious maison, exceptional craftsmanship and materials of the highest possible quality. Each piece is unique and made entirely by hand. Each piece is exceptional, unique and cannot be reproduced.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, founder and editor-in-chief of the Jewellery Historian, announced in March 1, 2016 the appointment of Olivier Dupon as the Department Editor of the new Haute Joaillerie. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Olivier has not only the know-how required but also the aesthetics and high standards of the Jewellery Historian. His work is of exceptional quality and I am sure that as the department editor of our new Haute Joaillerie department, he will offer to our readers a unique perspective of this exceptional world of creativity.â&#x20AC;? he said.

In fine jewelery, the work is almost exclusively manual. The jewelry will be very attentive to the quality of the workshop work. This one is made entirely by hand. We are talking of unique and exceptional pieces. So even if a new part is required, all the work has to be taken from the beginning, since there is no mold. The creation of high jewellery piece is a long and rigorous process. While respecting aesthetic codes, all precious stones are carefully selected for their clarity and color.

This new column, introduces you exceptional pieces of Haute Joaillerie, a world of dazzling beauty, where the largest and most prestigious jewellery maisons present their latest collections.

Haute Joaillerie uses only exceptional gemstones, unique gems also often impossible to find exactly the same. Jewelery using the highest quality stones but are slightly less rare.

Haute Joaillerie is much more than a question of craftsmanship or expertise: it is a delicate art-form in its own. Haute Joaillerie (Fine Jewelry in english) is what Haute Couture is to fashion, a unique world apart.

This is what differentiates it from jewellery. Fine jewelry is the realm of the impossible, that of technical prowess that guarantees a unique expertise of a prestigious maison and not the price.

If we would have to define it, we would say that haute Joaillerie is a delicate a r t - f o r m , a u n i q u e k n o w - h o w, transmitted from generation to

The Haute Joaillerie column will be first included in issue 18 of the Jewellery Historian.

Hj Haute joaillerie

GUCCI Gucci announces its new ambassador for watches and jewellery

Gucci is pleased to announce that its new ambassador for watches and jewellery is the British musician Florence Welch, lead singer of Florence + the Machine.

and a mix of rings from Gucci Jewelry’s Icon, Marché des Merveilles and Flora collections. Her hands are adorned with rings in 18kt yellow and pink gold, each decorated with precious stones, diamonds, or motifs like the honeybee. These are paired with a delicate honey bee bangle, in yellow gold. The stacked rings and different metals gives a vintage allure in line with Florence’s own eccentric style.

On February 12th, the House hosted a press conference to elaborate on this new partnership at a private event in Los Angeles. Florence, who is attending the Grammys, was interviewed in front of an invited audience by British broadcaster and journalist Alexa Chung. Alexa also took over the Gucci Snapchat account this morning to reveal the House’s partnership with its new ambassador.

About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry Gucci Timepieces, one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning, has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early 1970s.

Alessandro Michele, Creative Director of Gucci, says, ‘Florence has become a good friend, but I wanted to work with her primarily because she is an exciting artist. Her dark, romantic songs are timeless and full of passion and emotion – in many ways they evoke the spirit of Gucci.’

Rigorously made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognized for their innovative and contemporary design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitalizing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewelry industries. For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.gucci.com.

Florence Welch says, ‘I am a magpie, and when Alessandro and I first met we bonded over our love of jewellery. I truly believe that what he is creating at Gucci today is magic, and I am so excited to be part of it.’ At the event, Gucci unveiled its latest timepiece, the G-Timeless automatic, which was worn by Florence Welch. A design featuring an eclectic mix of decorative bees, a heart and stars, the GTimeless automatic combines the vibrant, striking creativity of Alessandro Michele w i t h t h e t r a d i t i o n o f S w i s s fin e watchmaking, and introduces the new motifs the designer is developing for the House to the world of Gucci horology. Reflecting her eclectic personal taste, Florence Welch has also chosen a bangle

Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories, which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport and Lifestyle brands.

Art Director: Christopher Simmonds, Photographer: Colin Dodgson Stylist: Aldene Johnson, Hair Stylist: Alex Brownsell, Make-up Artist: Sarah Reygate

Photos courtesy of GUCCI ÂŠ GUCCI

Jewellery Historian

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Photos courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

Jewellery Historian

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Photos courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

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Hj Haute joaillerie

by Olivier Dupon

CHANEL Signature de Chanel

Jewellery Historian

| HAUTE JOAILLERIE

H A U T E J OA I L L E R I E by Olivier Dupon

CHANEL

Signature de Chanel Could the concept of ‘less is more’ apply to Haute Joaillerie, which usually amazes us with record-breaking carats, rare flawless qualities and theatrical dimensions? ‘Signature de Chanel’, the latest Haute Joaillerie collection from Chanel – unveiled during January 2016 Paris Couture week – seems to have reconciled the two.

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A supple cuff in 18K white gold with a quilting design composed of rounded squares sparkling with diamonds. At the centre, a 43.66-carat pink morganite pyramid reveals a secret dial when pressed.

CHANEL Fine Jewelry

‘Signature de Chanel’, the latest Haute Joaillerie collection from Chanel with forty-eight pieces (grouped into eleven families or variations around the core theme) is based on a single inspiration: the matelassé pattern, a favourite of Coco Chanel for its presence in the equestrian world.

Could the concept of ‘less is more’ apply to Haute Joaillerie, which usually amazes us with record-breaking carats, rare flawless qualities and theatrical dimensions? ‘Signature de Chanel’, the latest Haute Joaillerie collection from Chanel – unveiled during January 2016 Paris Couture week – seems to have reconciled the two. All forty-eight pieces (grouped into eleven families or variations around the core theme) are based on a single inspiration: the matelassé pattern, a favourite of Coco Chanel for its presence in the equestrian world. Although the square quilted effect has already been an active reference in the Chanel product catalogue – most iconic of all, the bestselling 2.55 bag – it is the first time it has inspired an entire collection of Chanel’s Haute Joaillerie, and admittedly the superb outcome was meant to be. With a simple proposition of mostly white (gold, diamonds, pearls) and the occasional and limited accent of colour (sapphire, aquamarine, black mother-of-pearl), this collection is a celebration of eloquence, clarity and ingenious craftsmanship. Let me introduce you to the four ‘families’ that have made a strong impression for their fascinating complexities. It is only to be expected to start with ‘Signature de Saphir’, whose pièce-de-resistance long neckpiece was presiding over the rectangular row of display tables during the preview day. It was the first jewel one could see before walking around the room, and what a jewel! Entirely composed of diamond-paved lightly curved squares, its construction is such that the squares are tightly secured to one another on the top half (mimicking a padding effect), while gradually separating on the bottom half, and as a result creating five distinct strands. A single cushion-cut blue sapphire sits on one side as a corsage. Despite the predictable weight of such an imposing neckpiece, the way it espouses the body feels truly like a second skin. A ring (a 5cts cushion-cut sapphire, 2cts of 18 square-cut diamonds and 1.1cts of 56 brilliant-cut diamonds), earrings (two cushion-cut sapphires for a total of 12.8cts, 2cts of 26 square-cut diamonds, 4.5cts of 158 brilliant-cut diamonds and 2 trilliant-cut diamonds) and a bracelet (a 10cts cushion-cut sapphire, 3.2cts of 42 square-cut diamonds, 1.4cts of 24 baguette-cut diamonds and 10.6cts of brilliant-cut diamonds) complete this family, which is all about the sophisticated interpretation of the matelassé pattern, while first and foremost retaining its geometrical nature. Meanwhile the ‘Signature de Perles’ theme somehow subverts the repetitiveness of a matelassé by deconstructing it. Rounded diamond-sparkled full, half and quarter squares appear to morph into strands of exquisite Japanese pearls, as seen in the sumptuous necklace, where a 3.4cts emerald-cut white diamond is the centre from which the magic operates. In the same manner, the wide cuff with its concealed fastening is a masterpiece of old-world elegance: 1,191 brilliant-cut diamonds (total of 12.4cts) and 308 Japanese pearls compose the richly textured piece. On each square surface, the same presentation of pearls of varied calibre (organised from the largest in the middle to the smallest on the sides) is cloned, while the pearls de facto add extra voluptuousness to the quilting replica. A graceful pair of earrings showcases the same classicism, this time with a twist: in each, a Japanese pearl hangs from a square, which in turn contains a mosaic of brilliant-cut diamonds (160 for a total of 7.9cts). The sharpness of an angle is never far from the softness of a curve. Surprisingly the matching ring is the only piece in this series that does not hold any pearl, yet it connects back to the neckpiece via a 3cts emerald-cut white diamond, accompanied by 162 brilliant-cut diamonds (total of 2.8cts). If there were any hard material that could instantly replicate the matelassé 2.55 bag effect, it would have to be mother-of-pearl for its glossy texture and smooth surface. However, how could one ever work this extremely brittle and flat product (espe-

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"Signature de Saphir" necklace in 18K white gold set with diamonds and a cushion-cut sapphire. CHANEL Fine Jewelryâ&#x20AC;¨

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"Signature de Saphir" ring in 18K white gold set with a 5-carat cushion-cut sapphire, 18 square-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2 carats and 56 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 1.1 carat. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Saphir" earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 cushion-cut sapphires for a total weight of 12.8 carats, 26 square-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2 carats, 158 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 4.5 carats and 2 triangle-cut diamonds. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Saphir" bracelet in 18K white gold set with a 10-carat cushion-cut sapphire, 42 square-cut diamonds for a total weight of 3.2 carats, 24 baguette-cut diamonds for a total weight of 1.4 carat and 582 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 10.6 carats. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Saphir" necklace in 18K white gold set with diamonds and a cushion-cut sapphire. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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The ‘Signature Morganite Secret Watch’ is a direct relative of ‘Signature de Chanel’ as it also uses the padding motif, in white gold and diamonds, with a 43.66cts central pink morganite stone faceted like a pyramid and forming a lid that hides the dial.

cially in its black variety) on a curve? The Chanel team told me that there are only a handful of craftsmen in the world that can master the challenging technique that allows the black nacreous gemstone to be bent when set. The ‘Signature de Nacre’ series is a testament to this feat in expertise. The cuff and ring in particular are impressive, as both add to the complexity due to their inherent circular shapes. Throughout this remarkable series, each jewel showcases black mother-of-pearl that has been sculpted, while a myriad of brilliant-cut white diamonds create the scalloped edges and act as precious buttons, and, when combined with the shell, form an accolade to the iconic black and white Chanel combo. To complete the array, a small square clock combines white (for the base) and black (for the dial) mother-of-pearl, while the top of the base (on which the clock is poised) displays a showstopper white diamond snow setting. You will never look at black mother-of-pearl the same way. Unlike the latter, rock crystal is actually fairly easy to carve and transform into whatever design you like. It is a recurring component in Chanel Haute Joaillerie – think of the ‘Magnétique’ collection from ‘Les Talismans de Chanel’ in 2015 – and, each time, rock crystal is consecrated as a key element to bring in limpidity, making complex pieces look ethereal. The ‘Signature Cocoon’ family is a case in point: an all-white story, where diamond-paved white gold feathers (akin to foliage in their movement) wrap around large blocks of sculpted crystal. This is the theoretical marriage between organic and mineral, and these are pieces with a great many layers, as one can see through the feathers creeping up at the back of the rock. Of course the crystal is sculpted in a square shape so as to tie in with the core concept of Signature de Chanel, the matelassé, except for one piece, the grand round brooch, as much an objet d’art as a jewel. Last but not least, on the same day we also had the chance to preview one of the Haute Horlogerie watches, part of ‘Les Eternelles de Chanel’ to be fully unveiled during BaselWorld 2016. The ‘Signature Morganite Secret Watch’ is a direct relative of ‘Signature de Chanel’ as it also uses the padding motif, in white gold and diamonds, with a 43.66cts central pink morganite stone faceted like a pyramid and forming a lid that hides the dial. The bracelet is highly supple, and the time is revealed by applying light pressure on the pastel gem. I suppose time management is not an important issue when one wears such a prized watch, or, on the contrary, the theory could be that since the wearer will not be able to keep from admiring the watch on her wrist, she will never lose track of the time. Either way, we laud the conundrum; the fact that timelessness applies to a timepiece. www.chanel.com

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"Signature de Perles" necklace in 18K white gold set with a 3.4-carat emerald-cut diamond, 717 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 38.22 carats and Japanese cultured pearls. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Perles" ring in 18K white gold set with a 3-carat emerald-cut diamond and 162 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2.8 carats. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Perles" earrings in 18K white gold set with 160 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 7.9 carats and 2 Japanese cultured pearls. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Perles" earrings in 18K white gold set with 160 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 7.9 carats and 2 Japanese cultured pearls. "Signature de Perles" ring in 18K white gold set with a 3-carat emerald-cut diamond and 162 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2.8 carats. "Signature Duo" watch in 18K white gold set with 668 brilliant- cut diamonds for a total weight of 13.5 carats. Quartz movement. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Perles" cuff in 18K white gold set with 1191 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 12.4 carats and 308 Japanese cultured pearls. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature White Tie" ring in 18K white gold set with a 1-carat cushion-cut diamond and 76 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 1.1 carat. "Signature de Perles" cuff in 18K white gold set with 1191 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 12.4 carats and 308 Japanese cultured pearls. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Nacre" clock in 18K white gold set with 789 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 38.5 carats and carved black and white mother-of-pearl. Quartz movement. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Nacre" ring in 18K white gold set with 95 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 1.4 carat and carved mother-of-pearl. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature de Nacre" necklace in 18K white gold set with a 1-carat brilliant-cut diamond, 205 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 14.8 carat and carved mother-of-pearl.

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"Signature de Nacre" cuff in 18K white gold set with 496 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 20.3 carats and carved mother-of-pearl. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature Cocoon" ring in 18K white gold set with 193 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2.7 carats and carved rock crystal. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature Cocoon" necklace in 18K white gold set with a 1.5-carat brilliant-cut diamond, 652 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 16.7 carats and carved rock crystal. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature Cocoon" earrings in 18K white gold set with 251 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 3 carats and carved rock crystal. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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"Signature Cocoon" brooch in 18K white gold set with a 1.5-carat brilliant-cut diamond, 308 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2 carats and carved rock crystal. CHANEL Fine Jewelry

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T H E A R T O F C R E AT I V I T Y by Olivier Dupon

John Rubel From Budapest to Place Vend么me, and from the Fifth Avenue to the most prestigious auction rooms, discover the family history and the rich heritage of this century old Maison, a confidential joaillier for connoisseurs keen to the true sense of luxury, a secretive sense of transmission between generations. 61

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Serendipity as played quite an important part in the ‘John Rubel’ story.

“The world of joaillerie and gemstones has always been a sort of evidence for me. Right after my studies, my family offered me the chance to train and work as a diamond and coloured gem dealer, while I kept creating jewellery designs for haute joaillerie names”

Take the night in the late 1930s, when Jean Rubel went to a Latino nightclub in New York, the city where Jean and his brother Robert had decided to settle to develop their American expansion – a move also prompted by Van Cleef & Arpels with whom Rubel Frères had established an increasingly close collaboration -, while their nephew, Marcel, stayed in Paris to look after the French workshop. That night, Jean became bewitched by one of the dancers so much so that he had to draw her graceful pose on a piece of paper towel. That sketch eventually became the basis of the first ever piece of jewellery from the ‘Ballerina’ series by Van Cleef & Arpels. Although one can confidently claim that the Ballerina brooches have become the signature style associated with the Place Vendôme House, it remains a genius Rubel Frères’ creation at the end of day. Such was their talent that they subsequently created one-of-a-kind wonders for collectors of the times, fuelled Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Cartier and other Haute Joaillerie Houses’ design studios with umpteen majestic designs, all the while producing hundreds of superb drawings. The collaboration with Van Cleef came to an end in 1942, when the Rubel Frères decided to run their house independently and open their own boutique at 777 Fifth Avenue. By the early 1950s, they had taken the American nationality and anglicized the business’s name as ‘John Rubel’, whilst during the second Wold War, Marcel had been obliged to close the Parisian workshop. As a result, he focused on a diamond-dealing career at the end of the war, which quickly led him to become one of the major international players of this niche profession. By the mid 1950s a slow down in the US activities, mostly triggered by family decisions, made the transition to full time diamond dealer strategically obvious, and subsequently the jewellery-making arm would die down at the end of the same decade. Let’s just say that the sleeping beauty rather hibernated, for Sophie MizrahiRubel, the grand daughter of Marcel, was following in the family footsteps, unbeknownst to her at the time. A gemstone dealer herself, - taught about diamonds by her grand father and coloured gems by her mother, in keeping with the tradition of family heritage -, then a freelance jewellery designer for several brands from the place Vendôme, she was soon contracted by the likes of LVMH, Cartier and Mauboussin, where she was vice president for ten years in charge of repositioning the brand. Six years of freelance consulting later, and serendipity incident number two occurred: Eric Schneider, a coloured stone dealer and colleague of Sophie, suggested they could bring the Rubel name back to life and hopefully to its former glory. ‘The world of joaillerie and gemstones has always been a sort of evidence for me. Right after my studies, my family offered me the chance to train and work as a diamond and coloured gem dealer, while I kept creating jewellery designs for haute joaillerie names’, Sophie shares. ‘Doing something else never crossed my mind as I thoroughly enjoy all aspects of the business: one has to master creativity of course, but also the marketing, buying, commercial strategy and sales.’

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MISTINGUETT necklace 18K white gold with diamonds, emeralds, pearls and rubies.

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MISTINGUETT mismatched earrings 18K white gold with diamonds, emeralds, pearls and rubies.

By choosing a John Rubel piece, one makes a statement: it is about seeking originality in an industry prone to uniformity, and voting for designers that take risks.

A comprehensive folio of talents that Sophie could master over the years that led up to the re-launching of John Rubel. How does one start given this extraordinary opportunity? In Rubel’s case, just put your hands on about three hundreds sketches saved in the family vaults, delve into their intricate details as you seek to extract the brand’s DNA. ‘The core concept is to pin point what it is like to be a John Rubel woman today. It is a balancing exercise between being spontaneous and rational with your intent. It was only when I identified the brand’s positioning that I started working on the design of our first collection’, Sophie explains. The aptly titled ‘Vie de Bohème’ collection took a year to complete and it consists of twenty pieces all inspired by iconic female performers from the 20th century, who each in her own way embodies a free-spirit set on achieving her creative ambitions no matter what: Sarah Bernhardt, Ginger Rogers, Edith Piaf…The pieces are colourful and full of life the same way these stars shine. ‘I wanted to keep the generous volumes, the rhythmic play between gems and varied hues, something Jean Rubel always incorporated – do you know that he was the precursor of the association between both turquoise and red colours, now seen in many designs?’ she says, ‘Then you have what is more abstract: a touch of joy and playfulness. John Rubel should somehow be synonymous with “dancing” jewellery.’ At the time when all was yet to invent, John Rubel fashioned highly modern renditions, so the contemporary challenge was to follow the lead whilst injecting some individuality to the new collection; in other words, interpreting the spirit of the early founders with a dash of Art Deco, unapologetic femininity and timeless elegance; a fine act that sees Sophie paying tribute to both her heritage and excellent craftsmanship, all the while looking to the future. Take the ‘Carmen’ series, which celebrates shades of deep blue and pays homage to the first ballerina brooch by evoking her skirt through the modern rendition of corollas. The design gracefully frames a centre 12.74ct Ceylon sapphire in the ring, while it delicately punctuates the geometric construction of fan-shaped stud earrings. ‘La Divine’ ring is in turn a spectacular floral ode to jubilance: a 4.09cts Mozambique natural red ruby presides over ruby cabochons stamens, which shoot out from the centre while diamond petals are wide open, an invitation to be drawn in. This is a piece that undeniably conjures up the vital force of its wearer. The same can be said of the eighteen other jewels that compose this first collection. ‘Rules can often burden creativity. That said once you know what your doing, it becomes automatic and you can anticipate what will work or not. I have the fortune not to have to follow a very strict marketing plan – contrary to what is happening in big Houses -, and therefore I can draw jewellery pieces for important gemstones that will become their centre. The cost of the setting does not indeed impact much on the final price of the object, so we do not skimp on it. ’ By choosing a John Rubel piece, one makes a statement: it is about seeking originality in an industry prone to uniformity, and voting for designers that take risks. ‘I intend to step out of the major brands’ commercial recipe – they have become a bit too commercial’ – and tap into our independence, a sense of audacity, Avant-guard and lightness.

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GINGER ring 18K rose gold with diamonds and Akoya pearls

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Amelia necklace 18K rose gold with pearl and diamonds

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Bleu CARMEN earrings White gold, sapphires and diamonds.

John Rubel is truly a confidential joaillier for connoisseurs keen on the “no logo” philosophy.’ The challenge is how to build a name that can be recognized worldwide all the while keeping it secretive, in the true sense of Luxury. A clue may have been found: ‘Timelessness is key. I would like to convey a sense of transmission between generations. John Rubel pieces appeal to both young and mature women, so when a girl decides she wants to wear her mother’s ring, let alone her grandmother’s one, then timelessness ensues’, Sophie ponders. Jewellery from the Rubel ‘family’ was always meant to stand the test of time, and now more than ever, under the astute guidance of both Sophie and Eric, it has the chance to mark centuries to come. www.johnrubel.com

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John Rubel is truly a confidential joaillier for connoisseurs keen on the “no logo” philosophy.’ The challenge is how to build a name that can be recognised worldwide all the while keeping it secretive, in the true sense of Luxury.

Bleu CARMEN ring 18K white gold with a 12.74cts Ceylon vivid blue sapphire, sapphires and diamonds.

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LA DIVINE ring 18K white gold with a 4.09cts natural ruby from Mozambique, diamonds and rubies.

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LOUISE ring 18K white gold with a 3.02cts natural ruby from Mozambique, diamonds and rubies.

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MISTINGETT ring 18K white gold with diamonds, emeralds and rubies.

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JOLIE MOME ring 18K white gold with a 4.14cts natural pink sapphire from Mozambique, black and white diamonds.

Hj Haute joaillerie by Olivier Dupon

CHAUMET Une ĂŠducation sentimentale

H A U T E J OA I L L E R I E by Olivier Dupon

CHAUMET

Une éducation sentimentale There is no better way to capture an important and intimate moment than by associating it with the offering of a fine jewel. Witness the magic first hand, and through the love life of historical figures (the ‘Legends in Love’ exhibits), at the new temporary exhibition by Chaumet, in their ‘ephemeral museum’. 81

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In other words, this exhibition celebrates the meaning of love and devotion through an array of covetable novelties as well as antique Chaumet treasures. Indeed, this joaillier has been the go-to house for anyone, famous or not, to have ceremonial or private, elaborate or discreet, always celebratory pieces made, since 1780.

There is no better way to capture an important and intimate moment than by associating it with the offering of one (or more) fine jewel. Nothing spells ‘precious moment’ more than an actual precious token; an heirloom that will be passed down from generation to generation so that the memory will live on. One can actually witness the magic first hand, and through the love life of historical figures (the ‘Legends in Love’ exhibits), at the new temporary exhibition by Chaumet, in their ‘ephemeral museum’ at number 12 Place Vendôme: ‘Une Éducation Sentimentale’ (referring to Gustave Flaubert’s 1869 eponymous novel, L’Éducation Sentimentale). So if you happen to be in or visiting the City of Light before September 24th 2016, make sure you immerse yourself in this journey as much through time (the past and present reunited, with antique pieces displayed alongside contemporary interpretations that have been created specifically for the occasion), as through iconic love sagas (Napoléon Bonaparte and Joséphine de Beauharnais, Errol Flynn and Lili Damita, Sacha Guitry and Yvonne Printemps, among others). Besides it is worth remembering that Empress Joséphine appointed Nitot, founder of Chaumet, as her official jeweller in 1805. In other words, this exhibition celebrates the meaning of love and devotion through an array of covetable novelties as well as antique Chaumet treasures. Indeed, this joaillier has been the go-to house for anyone, famous or not, to have ceremonial or private, elaborate or discreet, always celebratory pieces made, since 1780. From a small charm or medallion to the most lavish corbeille de mariage (an old French tradition that sees the groom officialise his engagement by offering his soon-tobe wife a basket filled with jewels and other lovelies), Chaumet has famously catered to anyone who has wanted his or her emotion to be captured in a jewellery object. So many milestones in a lifetime (although some traditions may have fallen into disuse, e.g. tiaras are rarely an engagement gift anymore; ditto ‘morning gifts’, traditionally offered on the day after the wedding night); so few ways of seizing any fleeting moment, other than sealing the joyous sentiment in a precious keepsake. Of all the symbols that could represent the love between two people, the tie (le lien) is the most obvious, and that is precisely why Chaumet has been using a knot template in jewellery since as early as circa 1910, as seen in a necklace with a négligé tie (or ‘loose’ tie, since it looks effortless, as if freshly tied) from that era. Other designs such as arrows, bowknots, ribbons and feathers have also been used to signify commitment, and the latter in particular has been chosen to express how love can make one feel invincible. This important aspect of Chaumet’s history is apparent through the archives (from examples dating back to the First Empire via the Belle Époque to 20th–century commissions), as well as in the unveiling of brand new pieces (Escapade de Chaumet) directly inspired by Les Liens collection. As a result, one is able to zoom in on a set of intaglio jewellery circa 1805. Empress Joséphine herself handpicked these intaglios (relics from the Roman Empire) for their symbolic and Dionysian charge; or learn about acrostic jewellery, which ‘conceals a hidden poem in the initials of the gemstones used’, as seen in the divine ‘Amour bracelet with ribbons’ (circa 1890) and its contemporary counterpart the ‘Amour bracelet’ (2004). A mysterious and rare watch supposedly commissioned by the Marquis de Montesquiou is also on show: aptly named ‘Forget-me-not’ (1908), it contains ‘a portrait of the object of affection, hidden from view’. It is a masterpiece of delicacy, with a brace-

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“ He loved her without a single  mental reservation, without any hope of his love being reciprocated, unconditionally.”  Gustave Flaubert, Sentimental education, 1869

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Arrow brooch, 1905 CHAUMET

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Corbeille de mariage of Princess Mercedes of Bourbon,  wife of Infante Juan of Spain, son of King Alfonso XIII, 1935 CHAUMET

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Necklace set with the two Indore pear-shaped diamonds, 1913

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Bowknot corsage brooches, 1915

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Drawing of Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney’s wings aigrette, 1908

Miscellaneous Chaumet drawings of wings aigrettes

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Aigrette by Chaumet, 1915

Winged bandeau, 1913

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Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wings aigrette This imposing pair of wings was mounted on an aigrette for American heiress Gertrude Vanderbilt, whose marriage to Harry Payne Whitney had brought together two fabulously wealthy families. A student of sculpture under Rodin, the founder of Vogue magazine and an avid collector, Vanderbilt was above all an artist. She opened the Whitney Museum in New York to express her passion for creativity. Her bold character and con dence translated into a fearless taste in jewellery. Among myriad pieces by Chaumet, she also owned a second pair of diamond wings. In this pair, the taut rows of diamonds contrast with the translucent curves of blue enamel. Joseph Chaumet, 1908 Platinum, gold, diamonds and enamel Thomas FĂ¤rber collection

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Titrer Wings aigrette is pair of diamond brooches has been mounted in an aigrette setting that is faithful to their Belle Ă&#x2030;poque origins. e wings can be pointed in di erent directions. e feathers are meticulously crafted and layered in a display of exacting skill on the part of the jeweller. Wings: Joseph Chaumet, circa 1915 Aigrette setting: Chaumet, 2011 Platinum, gold, diamonds, sapphire. Private collection

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Forget-me-not watch Joseph Chaumet, 1908 Gold, platinum, diamonds, fine pearls and enamel. Chaumet Paris collection

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Pendant watch & arrow pin Joseph Chaumet, circa 1910 Gold, platinum, sapphire, emeralds, diamonds and enamel. Chaumet Paris collection

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Curvilinear tiara Joseph Chaumet, circa 1930 Gold, silver, fine pearls and diamonds Chaumet Paris collection

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The Bourbon-Parme tiara Descendant of Louis xiv, brother of Empress Zita of Austria, Prince Sixte of Bourbon-Parma married Hedwige de la Rochefoucauld in 1919. For the corbeille de mariage, the mother of the bride, the Duchess of Doudeauville, ordered from Chaumet a set of jewellery which was delivered on the morning of the wedding, 12 November 1919. Included was this tiara, a masterpiece of lace-like platinum and diamonds decorated with stylised fuchsias whose stamens appear to quiver, lifelike. It is a fine example of Chaumet’s art of trompe-l’œil; the pear-shaped motifs are defined by cushion-cut diamonds punctuated with brilliant-cut diamonds.

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Bourbon-Parme tiara Joseph Chaumet, circa 1919 Platinum and diamonds Chaumet Paris collection

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The Escapade de Chaumet, in a way Chaumet had their work cut out for them. Evoking an infinity symbol, the top of the band has been seamlessly twisted. These are understated, ultra-elegant, sculptural pieces that one would easily wear all day and all night long; a modern take on 1940s aesthetics.

let composed of fine pearls and minute flowers adorning the dial. The same exquisiteness is to be found in the ‘Cupid’s Arrow pendant watch and arrow pin’, where guilloché enamelling is superbly executed. Inner princesses will succumb before ravishing tiaras, among which is a spectacular piece: the platinum and diamond ‘Bourbon-Parme tiara with fuchsia motifs’ (1919), a fine example of Chaumet’s art of trompe-l’œil, where the pear-shaped motifs are defined by cushion-cut diamonds punctuated with brilliant-cut diamonds. Inner goddesses, meanwhile, will be transported by the sight of celestial wings. Two pieces, in particular, stand out: the ‘Pair of wings brooches’ (1908) for their uncanny modern edge, and the ‘Titrer Wings aigrette’, which is a tour de force in merging past and present (its wings date from the Belle Époque, circa 1915, while the aigrette setting was achieved in 2011). Regarding the new collection, The Escapade de Chaumet, in a way Chaumet had their work cut out for them. But the sheer abundance of museum-quality pieces at their disposal, all of them having explored sentimentality to the fullest, has certainly paved the way for the new renditions. On one hand, the concept of a band (ring and bracelet) has been lovingly interpreted in 18K yellow gold set with brilliant-cut white diamonds all along the side rims. Evoking an infinity symbol, the top of the band has been seamlessly twisted. These are understated, ultra-elegant, sculptural pieces that one would easily wear all day and all night long; a modern take on 1940s aesthetics. On the other hand, the tie symbol has been used in a more classical setting. Faithful to its original inspiration, the series is an exercise in geometric simplicity. Single strands of brilliant-cut white diamonds appear loosely tied (the ‘hand touch’ effect compounded by the fact that it is an asymmetrical tie for the necklace). The ties’ ends are punctuated by a pair of emerald-cut white diamonds or square-cut yellow diamonds, or oval-cut rubies from Mozambique (earrings); or a pair of fancy-shaped red tourmalines (necklace). Another short neckpiece is composed of a row of brilliant-cut lavender sapphires, which are interspaced with diamond-paved cross-knots. The series is a full house on love chromatics: white on white says love is pure, red on white conveys passion, and lavender calls romance to mind. In this day and age, when love seems to be routinely mentioned everywhere and at anytime, it is both refreshing and heartwarming to be able to ponder on its significance and true essence. Une Éducation Sentimentale may well help reposition love as a sacred value, and remind us that it needs to be cherished with the same intensity that we would treasure Chaumet’s sentiment-laden creations. www.chaumet.com

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Necklace in white gold, set with two fancy shaped red tourmalines, one weighing 18.25 carats, the other 18.36 carats, one hundred and sixty-six brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 15.29 carats in total and two princess-cut diamonds  weighing 0.13 carats. CHAUMET

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Escapade de Chaumet bracelet, in yellow gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds. CHAUMET

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Escapade de Chaumet bracelet, in yellow gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds. CHAUMET

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Liens earrings in white gold, set with two oval-cut rubies from Mozambique, one weighing 2.02 carats, the other 2.10 carats and forty-six brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.92 carats. CHAUMET

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Liens ring in white gold, set with a cushion-cut “ pigeon’s blood ” Burmese ruby weighing 2.81 carats and  one hundred and thirty-two brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.53 carats.

Liens ring in white gold, set with a cushion-cut EVVS1 diamond weighing 3.30 carats and one hundred and fortysix brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.75 carats. CHAUMET

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Bowknot tiara Joseph Chaumet, circa 1890 Gold, silver, diamonds, pink topazes Chaumet Paris collection

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Bourbon-Parme tiara Joseph Chaumet, circa 1919 Platinum and diamonds Chaumet Paris collection

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BASEL 2016 PREVIEW

BAYCO Bayco jewelry effortlessly mixes old and new trends: its pieces are often influenced by the Mogul era, jewelry of the Indian maharajahs, and classical jewelry, which makes the beauty of each stone stand out. Jewelry is eternal; its beauty never dies, so old designs and ideas live again when paired with a new neck or wrist.

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The Conquistador Emerald A Platinum & 18kt Yellow gold ring centered upon a ravishing 23 carat unenhanced emerald-cut old-mine Colombian emerald flanked by colorless half-moon diamonds weighing 4 carats total.

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A jewel fit for an Emperor must truly be the epitome of perfection and has to be the rarest of its kind. Each jewel in The Imperial Collection by Bayco is designed around exceptional pedigree gemstones, each being a true marvel of Mother Nature. These treasures are for connoisseurs with the finest of palates.

Each year at Baselworld luxury companies from across the globe exhibit their latest collections of watches and jewels. Bayco, the New York jewelry company specializing in exquisite high-jewelry, always impresses crowds with their vibrant displays of emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds. At Baselworld, Bayco will introduce new collections and exceptional pieces. A jewel fit for an Emperor must truly be the epitome of perfection and has to be the rarest of its kind. Each jewel in The Imperial Collection by Bayco is designed around exceptional pedigree gemstones, each being a true marvel of Mother Nature. These treasures are for connoisseurs with the finest of palates. At Baselworld, the prestigious company will also introduce the Clover rings, which are designed using a mix of colored stones and diamonds, where the center stone is set to seem like it is floating atop a bed of gemstones, which is enclosed in a clover-like frame. There unique rings are large, beautiful, and made with the finest material, as all BAYCO exceptional pieces. “We make jewelry for kings and queens,” exclaims Giacomo Hadjibay, co-CEO of Bayco Jewels LLC, before reconsidering and expanding Bayco’s target clientele: “… and princes and princesses.” This is, of course, a metaphorical conception of Bayco’s audience; the modern idea of royalty has grown to include everyone who hungers luxury and who understands the intricate labor and savoir-faire that goes into every Bayco piece. The sophistication once enjoyed only by half a dozen people in each country has spread to a more generalized—but still rarefied—luxury-loving elite. Though Bayco is a relatively new name in the world of precious gems, the expertise and passion it brings to the field is generations old. The family saga began with Amir Hadjibay, a young man with an entrepreneurial bent. Traveling between Iran and India, he began to develop an interest in precious gemstones, trading them for elaborately woven Persian rugs. Soon he began to visit India’s regal maharajahs, leaving with bits and pieces of their legendary jewelry collections—showstopping diamonds, carved emeralds and fiery rubies, among other gems. It was a simple step to create their own designs, populating them with the cherished gems they knew so well. There would be no mass production; the Hadjibay brothers decided from the beginning that they would create only one-of-a-kind pieces, the better to devote their resources to the greater glory of the exquisite stones they wanted to showcase. The family bonds persist into the next generation; Moris’s son Marco recently joined the company, bringing a youthful enthusiasm, vigor, and commitment to the future. >

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Rings from the Monochrome Lotus Collection

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The Clover Rings collection

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The new Monochrome Collection, by Bayco, consists of jewels designed around the concept that each piece be crafted using one specific color, therefore creating a simple yet elegant way for a woman to express herself.

> The Hadjibay brothers design as a team—having grown up together around the world of gems, they share a design vision and impeccable taste. Though neither has had any formal training in jewelry design, finely honed instinct and decades of experience guide their steady hands to create pinnacles of jewelry. These creations are among the most exceptional in the world— ravishing rubies that emanate aesthetic richness, dazzling emeralds that beguile the mind, celestial sapphires that capture the sublime and enrapturing diamonds that transcend all epochs and eras. The family expertise in gems has led to astonishing opportunities rediscovered. Moris remembers asking his father about his greatest regret. Amir told his son about “the one that got away”—a stunning 60-carat pearshaped sapphire of the deepest blue. It came from the Kashmir mines, Amir told Moris, a source of the world’s most exceptionally blue sapphires, which has been closed for decades. The equal of such a gem would be impossible to find again. Years later, Moris came across a sapphire the likes of which he had never seen—a huge, exquisitely perfect gem. He immediately recognized the stone that had eluded his father years before. Proving how near the apple falls to the tree, Moris bought the gem on the spot. The perfect sapphire, Amir confirmed, had indeed made its way back to the Hadjibays. Such a regal stone deserved nothing less than an aristocratic home, and the happy gem now resides in one of the most important royal collections in the world. Bayco jewelry effortlessly mixes old and new trends: its pieces are often influenced by the Mogul era, jewelry of the Indian maharajahs, and classical jewelry, which makes the beauty of each stone stand out. Jewelry is eternal; its beauty never dies, so old designs and ideas live again when paired with a new neck or wrist. The story starts with the stone, but it does not end there. The larger the stone, the more likely its design will include traditional elements. “A woman who buys a large stone wants something classic,” explains Giacomo. A fashion statement, no matter how original or compelling, cannot be worn every day, and it runs the risk of becoming dated. The new Monochrome Collection, by Bayco, consists of jewels designed around the concept that each piece be crafted using one specific color, therefore creating a simple yet elegant way for a woman to express herself. As this style of jewelry has grown more and more popular over the last few years, the New York based jewelry house has elaborated its designs to satisfy the growing demand for its monochrome collection. The concept behind The Monochrome Lotus Collection is creating a large and beautiful jewel around a smaller gem-quality center stone using the monochromatic style. Diamonds are then used to accentuate the shape of the jewel, therefore balancing the final look of the piece. >

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Diamond earrings from the Monochrome Lotus Collection

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The Crown of Kashmir A platinum & 18kt yellow gold ring centered upon a unique 24 carat emerald-cut Kashmir sapphire flanked by trillion diamonds weighing 3 carats total.

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The Mogok Splendor A platinum ring centered upon a spectacular 7 carat natural unheated cushion pigeonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blood Burma ruby set within a double row surround of colorless pearshaped diamonds and colorless marquise diamonds weighing 11 carats total.

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Bayco’s pursuit of gemstone purity is its own aesthetic truth—indulging in the exquisite, coveting the finest treasures, nurturing the uniqueness of each stone, creating an emblem of the wearer’s singular aura.

> The collection consists of rings, earrings and pendants, made in either diamond, emerald, ruby, blue sapphire or pink sapphire. The Hadjibays must recut every gem that passes through their hands in order to ensure that its full beauty shines through. Another aspect of their art enters into the equation when matching stones for an exquisite bracelet or necklace: Giacomo and Moris have access to an encyclopedic mental palette, instantly comparing a new stone to those waiting to shine, ready to pounce on a sapphire of the exact blue needed to complete a design. “Matching color depends on taste and experience,” explains Moris, and the Hadjibay brothers have both in spades. The designs are classic, yet youthful—and the stones within are justly renowned for being the finest in the world. Bayco’s precious testimony of a passion for stones is a delineation of ultimate beauty in all of its forms. It is their devotional ode to every gem. Bayco’s pursuit of gemstone purity is its own aesthetic truth—indulging in the exquisite, coveting the finest treasures, nurturing the uniqueness of each stone, creating an emblem of the wearer’s singular aura. “We are always in search of that ultimate beauty,” says Giacomo, adding that the fuel for his passion lies in the awed faces of people who lay eyes on his family’s creations for the first time. “We get to see things that other people don’t even see in their dreams.”

The exhibition will take place in Basel, Switzerland from March 17 to March 24. Bayco will put on show one of their latest designs at their exhibit in Baselworld; Hall 1.1 Stand E-09. www.bayco.com

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Emeralds & diamonds ring from the Monochrome Lotus Collection

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Hj Haute joaillerie by Olivier Dupon

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BOUCHERON Collection of animals

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H A U T E J OA I L L E R I E by Olivier Dupon

BOUCHERON Collection of animals

We all long to find companions in life; in fact, most species do, and that includes our own. Boucheronâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Collection of Animals, whose history dates back to the early beginnings of the eponymous house, is a treasure trove of the most precious kind of companion. A fabulous and dazzling bestiary.

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Cypris watch Boucheron

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Cypris Bracelet paved with 558 diamonds( 22,50 carats) and 2 cabochon rubies (0,20 carat) Boucheron

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Since Collection of Animals was launched, the Boucheron joailliers have been working on the series of bejewelled fauna a few pieces at a time. Twenty types of animals were unveiled (some not for the first time) in Paris this January.

" We all long to find companions in life; in fact, most species do, and that includes our own. Boucheron’s Collection of Animals, whose history dates back to the early beginnings of the eponymous house, is a treasure trove of the most precious kind of companion. The story goes that in 1888 Frédéric Boucheron offered his wife Gabrielle a talisman, in the form of a snake-shaped diamond necklace, to accompany her each time they would be separated due to travels. Symbolically charged with protective powers, snakes are effective deterrents that also exude sensuality, and are therefore befitting as tokens to show love and attachment. It is clear that Boucheron has always sourced inspiration from the natural world, and nowhere more than in this ever-expanding collection can one find a bestiary of such enchanting and benevolent creatures. Since Collection of Animals was launched, the Boucheron joailliers have been working on the series of bejewelled fauna a few pieces at a time. Twenty types of animals were unveiled (some not for the first time) in Paris this January. Here is a glimpse of this delightful menagerie. Of all the novelties, two of the Iconic lines (existing series) were completed. In the Cypris, the Swan line, which already comprised rings, pendants, earrings and a magnificent Tourbillon watch, the addition of two new bangles plus two new watches was the ultimate full circle. For the bangles, a duo of black and white swans with piercing ruby eyes can be worn separately or together, in the latter case forming a majestic embrace – the auspicious answer to the tragic end of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake ballet. Basically identical yet different versions of each other, the yin and yang of one spirit, they spread their wings with a life-like quality that only superior craftsmanship can achieve, the white diamonds on white gold or black sapphires on blackened white gold meticulously mimicking the lightness of feathers. For the watches, befittingly named Epure Cypris for their pared down design, the same principle goes with a black or white dichotomy. An elegant swan is carved out of black or white mother-of-pearl for the dial and the straps are matching in either black or white alligator, while the watch bezel, the swan’s nape and chest are paved with white diamonds, and the crown is punctuated by blue sapphire, in both instances. These are versatile watches, which strike a right balance between glamorous and ‘sporty’, bywords for a kind of discreet luxury. In the Hans, the Hedgehog line, a similar new contribution has been made to the existing array of hedgehog-shaped jewels in the form of a generous rose gold cuff. Its bulbous proportions are deceptive, as the piece is quite light thanks to a carved-out/ hollow centre, while the spikes, which normally would repel any attempt to caress the gentle beast, here have softer edges that are hard to resist. Python Snake bracelets in both pink and white gold, from the third Iconic line presented on the day, Kaa, Python & Amvara a.k.a. Boucheron Iconic Snakes, were exhibited alongside the rest. For a moment, one is stopped in one’s tracks: the sheer uncanny resemblance to the live entity is breathtaking. The attention to detail in the design of the python’s head (in all its menacing sharpness) and the end of the tail (the slight curve, which indicates a surreptitious movement) is perfect. Of course, the excellent mechanism that allows the bracelet to sway around one’s arm conjures authenticity, while the myriad of brown or white diamonds offers spectacular éclat. Hathi, the Elephant harks back to a time when Maharajas would travel to Place Vendôme and work closely with the joaillerie houses to have their jewellery dreams realized. The Boucheron archives confirm Indian elephants were a pattern of choice from the very beginning: the drawing of an elephant brooch dating from the late 19th-century sees the pachyderm dressed with ceremonial mounts, as elephants were

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Cypris watch Boucheron

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Cypris rings when worn together ( One ring set with pavé black sapphires, diamonds and two rubies, in blackened white gold, the second ring set with pavé diamonds and two rubies, in blackened white gold ) Boucheron

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Hans, the hedgehog bracelet, set with round rubies and black sapphire, on pink gold. Boucheron

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Hans, the hedgehog ring, set with round rubies and black diamond, on pink gold. Boucheron

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Throughout the presentation, one quality kept surfacing: tenderness. This is a testament to the Mains de Lumière (Hands of Light, a.k.a. Boucheron workshops), whose unparalleled expertise means that they could capture such an elusive quality.

highly valued by the rulers of India at the time. In the contemporary interpretation, Hathi has retained its panache, being exquisitely paved with brown and white diamonds, orange and violet sapphires, rubies and black sapphire eyes for the white and pink gold version; with brown and white diamonds, blue and purple sapphires, and black sapphire eyes for the white gold version. In both instances, the pavés and cabochons replicate the opulence of Indian royal brocades. Mammals of the affectionate type further inject a soft touch: Pegasus, the Horse (as a ring or cuff), whose lush mane seems to catch a breeze, looks down with a warmhearted expression; Biladom, the Panda (ring) playfully grasps at either a blue sapphire or green emerald above 3 cts cabochon. In each case, his sweet demeanour is utterly charming. Meanwhile, Shibli, the Lion Cub stares straight at you while cozying up with his prized toy, a central pink quartz cabochon. The rest of the avian family has much to offer, with several beauties in the collection. For Hirunda, The Swallows, a pair of earrings was created to complete the story, each earring in conversation with the other, as the two birds face each other while swinging on their perch; Hopi, The Hummingbird is captured mid-air as it seems to gather nectar from a brilliant-cut 43.04cts morganite; or Nuri, the Cockatoo, one of Boucheron’s favourite birds, and one of the most colourful numbers, with vibrant sapphires, tsavorites and diamonds. Nuri is in fact a couple, with one cockatoo gently leaning against its larger mate. Yet the most impressive novelty is to be found in the Héra, The Peacock family, where a one-strand pearl and diamond necklace (a new style in two versions – white gold or white and pink gold) holds a medallion pendant: a crystal rock case showcasing a diamond paved peacock, which holds a pearl. Although the bird seems to float inside its transparent vessel, it is in fact cleverly secured in the profile centre/edge of the case: a very delicate and feminine composition that requested the most time to create and perfect in the atelier. Throughout the presentation, one quality kept surfacing: tenderness. This is a testament to the Mains de Lumière (Hands of Light, a.k.a. Boucheron workshops), whose unparalleled expertise means that they could capture such an elusive quality. They masterfully understood the kinetics of each subject so that they were able to convey strength, deftness or lightness, depending on the animal. So, for lack of a better word, ‘tender’ is how I would describe Collection of Animals – an array of endearing and sensible keepsakes, from which one is invited to select a personal match. And, once adopted, these animals will truly offer companionship for a lifetime. www.boucheron.com

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Kaa Python bracelet, set with diamonds and emeralds, on pink gold. Boucheron

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Boucheron snake necklace, 1880

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Boucheron Archives

Different snake drawings of 1878, from the Boucheron archives Boucheron Archives

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Kaa Python bracelet, set with diamonds and emeralds, on white gold. Boucheron

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An elephant drawing from the Boucheron archives

Boucheron Archives

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An elephant brooch from the Boucheron archives

A Boucheron Powder box & Lipstick Boucheron Archives

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Hathi, the elephant ring Ring set with white and brown diamonds, blue and purple sapphires, cabochon pear shaped blue and purple sapphires, in white gold. Boucheron

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Pégase, the horse bracelet Bracelet set with pavé diamonds and two cabochon sapphires, in white gold Boucheron

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Pégase, the horse ring Ring with pavé diamonds and two cabochon sapphires, in white gold Boucheron

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Biladom, the panda ring Ring set with an emerald cabochon, pavé sapphires, diamonds and emeralds, in white gold Boucheron

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Shibli, the lion cub ring Ring set with a cabochon pink quartz, pavé brown and white diamonds and cabochon emeralds, in pink gold Boucheron

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A 1907 Boucheron brooch, from the Boucheron archives

A 1907 Boucheron tiara, from the Boucheron archives

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Hirunda, the swallow earring Pendent earrings paved with diamonds, on white gold Boucheron

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Hopi, the hummingbird ring Ring with pavé diamonds, 47,88 carats morganite, pink and blue sapphires,in white and pink gold. Boucheron

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Nuri, the cockatoo pendant earrings Pendent earrings set with pavé tsavorites and orange, pink, yellow round sapphires, and diamonds, on pink gold Boucheron

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Nuri, the cockatoo long necklace Long necklace set with pavé tsavorites and orange, pink, purple, yellow sapphires, diamonds and purple cabochon sapphires, in pink gold Boucheron

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Nuri, the cockatoo ring Ring set with pavé tsavorites and orange, pink, yellow round sapphires, and diamonds, in pink gold Boucheron

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BASEL 2016 PREVIEW

JEWELLERY THEATRE It came to us through the centuries and entire fortunes were spent on this ultimate symbol of luxury. Over time, lace ceased to be the prerogative of the aristocracy but remained a symbol of luxury, sensuality and femininity. In creating the Lace collection, with its intricate and ethereal patterns of gold and precious stones, Jewellery Theatre has endeavoured to pay homage to all the lace weaving artisans world wide. 151

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The Lace collection will be unveiled for the very first time at Baselworld 2016. Inspired by the works of craftsmen from France, Italy, Flanders and Scotland, this collection is definitely a symbol of luxury, sensuality and femininity.

" In March 2016 Jewellery Theatre will once again take pride of place at the Baselworld exhibition in Switzerland. A new collection called Lace will be unveiled for the very first time at the show. " In creating the Lace collection, with its intricate and ethereal patterns of gold and precious stones, they have endeavored to pay homage to all the lace weaving artisans world wide.   " The main sources of inspiration for their designers became the works of medieval craftsmen from France, Italy, Flanders and Scotland. The origin of lace is still an enigma to us, rooted deep into the millennia. It will probably remain one of the greatest unsolved mysteries of our world, such as the story of the lost world of Atlantis and the secrets of the Mayan pyramid builders. Nevertheless, we do know that lace has always been a privilege of the elite, emphasizing the exceptional nature of its owner. The second book of Torah and the Old Testatement first mentioned ‘net-like edging with the finest embroidered pattern’, which was found on the sumptuous clothing of Egyptian kings The described events date back to the early half of the 16th century BC, the reign of the Pharaoh Apepi, who belonged to the Hyksos dynasty. Surprisingly, the technique of lace making had been forgotten after this period and rediscovered some 3,500 years later during the Renaissance, when many techniques of Ancient Egypt were applied in science, engineering and architecture of medieval Europe. It is at this point in history when fine French, Venetian and Flemish lace became famous worldwide. Entire fortunes were spent on this ultimate symbol of luxury. So much so, that Philip III of Spain was forced to issue a law, which forbade the wearing of lace. Likewise Louis XIII of France issued a law in 1613, which was to put an end to the wasteful addiction of the French public. Finally in 1662 even the English Parliament prohibited the import of Flemish lace. However, the demand was so great, that foreign lace was imported secretly and sold on as ‘English lace’, thus the famous ultra fine lace from Brussels got the name ‘Point d’Angleterre’. In the end, no amount of prohibitions could stop this developing fashion for lace. Over time, lace ceased to be the prerogative of the aristocracy but remained a symbol of luxury, sensuality and femininity. In creating the Lace collection, with its intricate and ethereal patterns of gold and precious stones, Jewellery Theatre has endeavoured to pay homage to all the lace weaving artisans world wide. The main sources of inspiration for our designers became the works of medieval craftsmen from France, Italy, Flanders and Scotland. >

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The enchanted spectator becomes a player in the show, participating in the creation of a piece of jewellery, choosing the stones and devising a motif and background for the creation of the jewellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art that is taking shape.

Life becomes so much more fulfilling when we surround ourselves with what is precious. And it is the Philosophy of Jewellery Theatre to combine Beauty with Art to take you into a world within a world; a world of wonder on a higher plane than the everyday world around you. Gaze at one of the objets d'art of Jewellery Theatre and you leave behind the everyday, the ordinary. Is this reality or is it fantasy? You may still be asking the question when you admire the beauty and craftsmanship of the jewels. The Philosophy of Jewellery Theatre is to employ the genius of brilliant designers with the craftsmanship of master jewellers. Working only with precious stones and metals, our designers and jewellers create pieces that are unique; you will not find anywhere else such a combination of a creative imagination with the natural beauty and colours of precious stones. We pride ourselves on the unrivalled quality of our jewellery; and the unique presentation of such fine art in the theatre which we call Jewellery Theatre. People who find themselves in Jewellery Theatre unwittingly turn into the audience; before you, true theatre is played out on large and small stages. The enchanted spectator becomes a player in the show, participating in the creation of a piece of jewellery, choosing the stones and devising a motif and background for the creation of the jewellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art that is taking shape. What singles out the style of Jewellery Theatre is that our jewellery carries within itself a tiny part of this theatrical atmosphere, turning any new space into a stage. Like a moveable theatre, each collection is a drama in itself and each piece an actor with its own character. It may draw from you a gasp of admiration. Perhaps you see reflected in the precious stone some long lost memory from times past. Theatre encompasses the whole spectrum of human emotion. And our jewellery may evoke joy, wonder, sorrow, fascination. Our designs will leave you breathless. We guarantee that you will experience many emotions; you will not remain indifferent. At the Jewellery Historian we love the creations of Jewellery Theatre, for their creative audacity but also for the amazing craftsmanship and exceptional quality, both of materials and design. We love wearing them because we know that when we wear a Jewellery Theatre piece, we are wearing a piece of jewellery that is unique and an unforgeatable theatrical atmosphere that brings to our lives, with its own special character, a precious lost memory. www.jewelleryhteatre.com

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T H E A R T O F C R E AT I V I T Y by Olivier Dupon

HEMMERLE Reconciling the past, present and future is a creative approach that only a few fine jewellers excel at. Yet none other than German maestro Hemmerle can succeed so well at the harmonious marriage between antiques, out of the ordinary artefacts, natural wonders and cutting-edge materials, improbable components all united in unison thanks to the superlative craftsmanship applied. 167

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Hemmerle is a fourth generation jeweller and from an early age my father used to take me with him on trips around the world hunting for stones and materials’, Christian Hemmerle

Reconciling the past, present and future is a creative approach that only a few fine jewellers excel at. Yet none other than German maestro Hemmerle can succeed so well at the harmonious marriage between antiques, out of the ordinary artefacts, natural wonders and cutting-edge materials, improbable components all united in unison thanks to the superlative craftsmanship applied. Moreover each one-of-a-kind piece is a study in ingenious experimentation and astute touches. Brass, copper, iron (and soon aluminium) are elected for their specific engineering potential, mostly low brow materials that through the Hemmerle’s formula come in myriads of colours so they seamlessly match the main gemstones, hereby enhancing the latters’ magnificence. ‘Jewellery is where my passion and heart is; it runs through my blood. Hemmerle is a fourth generation jeweller and from an early age my father used to take me with him on trips around the world hunting for stones and materials’, Christian Hemmerle, son of Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle, recalls. ‘I briefly considered other careers but ultimately I grew up around jewellery and gems, they have always fascinated me and been a big part of my life. What keeps me passionate is our collective drive for innovation and not being afraid to take risks, which keep us at the vanguard of contemporary design, whilst remaining dedicated to craftsmanship and exceptional quality.’ Here, fossil shell stones become beguiling artworks when framed in gold and bronze; there, 19th century cameos seem in a dialogue as part of a pair of mismatched earrings; or an antique jade opium pipe is stripped from its original function and is now presiding over a long, extremely flexible, entirely beaded chain like a regal pendant; over there, the left and right earrings of a same pair are subtlety mismatched in terms of hue discrepancies in the coral beads, yet in each the upper bead, made of inverted sapphires, flawlessly matches in tone the coral beads below. Each time it is a feat in imperfect perfection, what makes one stop in one’s tracks and pause to look at why it is not what it seems. This is also certainly how Hemmerle manage to inscribe their storied jewellery house into the future: ‘our creations are informed by the heritage of Hemmerle and are defined by our commitment to craftsmanship. We have a determination to continually explore new ways to captivate our imagination and challenge our minds both aesthetically and technically’, Christian Hemmerle observes. ‘We study, research and sample a new material for as long as necessary to achieve a desired texture, aiming for the highest level of creative output and innovation. We believe inspiration can reside in everything: each element, shape, form or even thought. Reinterpreting them and pushing the boundaries can result in something new. When we work with new materials, a lot of things are trial and error because we never know the outcome. Each piece is a new discovery for us and we don’t necessarily know if it’s going to work out or not. Although it’s always a risk, we never get bored of experimenting, as there are no limits and no boundaries.’ One particular recent jewel embodies that effect: a pair of earrings showcasing porcelain doll plates. ‘The porcelain plates were found at Masterpiece in 2015 and were manufactured by “Caughley” a porcelain company in Shropshire, in the West Midlands of England operating around 1780 - 1798. They are a fine example of artefacts we find and are inspired to use in a contemporary setting’, Christian says, ‘in this case in copper and sapphires in the domes of the earrings, in two different tones of blue, reflecting the hues of blue in the porcelain.’ This automatically leads me to ponder about the process that takes place from the first sighting of the artefact and what leads the Hemmerle family to imagine this could translate into a fantastic piece of jewellery. ‘We have very few limits in what we use in our jewellery. The way we work is very creative and sometimes very spontaneous. We are guided by the natural beauty of the gemstones or the treasure we find. Once we find a pair or selection of stones that complement each

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Hemmerle ́ Clematis ́ Brooch, sapphires, diamonds, aluminium, white gold Price on Application, courtesy Hemmerle Hemmerle Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 89 24 22 600, www.hemmerle.com

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In 2016 and contributing to the naturalistic theme, Hemmerle are planning on creating a selection of pieces focusing on the use of aluminium, a non-precious metal with a rich history, which is not commonly associated with fine jewellery, and exploring all its properties. They will be launching the [AL] project at TEFAF in March 2016.

other, we start to think about what to create around them’, Christian explains. Therefore through their treasure hunting, they are able to find exceptional materials like rare Burmese sapphires, Mughal-era brown diamonds and ancient Chinese carved jade. ‘Some of the more unusual materials we have found include coral beads from a Portuguese shipwreck, Shiva Lingam stones from a river bed in India, petrified dinosaur bone and an ancient Egyptian turquoise scarab. This juxtaposition of materials gives our jewellery a vivacity that lends a different edge’, he adds. Is there a secret to successfully blending antiques in contemporary jewels? Materials are mostly their starting point and often they acquire them without a design in mind. ‘Our creativity is driven by materials and we start with a particular stone or object and design around it. We travel across the world in search of rare materials such as 18th century antique cameos or Egyptian miniature mosaics, as well as unusual stones with vibrant colours such as tsavorite, tourmaline and rubellite’, Christian notes. The sophistication of colour is integral to the Hemmerle’s aesthetics and sometimes, traditional materials are not enough for them to bring out all the different hues of a gemstone and utilise its full natural potential. ‘For instance, we recently paired an unusual paler shade of aquamarine with celadon coloured pebbles, hand-carved from stones found in Indonesia and Andalusia. We don't use unconventional materials just because they are different. It truly goes back to the fact that we want to give each and every gemstone the perfect home’, he says. When it comes to technique, whilst no two Hemmerle jewels are ever alike and no combination of materials the same, they have a few signature styles as listed by Christian: ‘structural pieces with geometric lines, the open-ended harmony bangle with its seamless closure, necklaces hung with a luxuriant tassel and diamonds set upside down to give a 'spiky' effect.’ Unsurprisingly Christian’s father taught his son that inspiration can reside in everything: ‘each element, shape, form or even thought. Reinterpreting them and pushing the boundaries can result in something new. We are inspired by what we see around us: culture, history, art, architecture and the natural world. Movements like the Bauhaus, Neue Sachlichkeit and Minimalism have influenced my father’s creations over time and continue to do so for me. Tomorrow our source of inspiration might be derived from something we are still not aware of.’ Undeniably Nature is also a predominant source of inspiration, as seen in the series inspired by vegetables (Delicious Jewels, 2011) and the other one inspired by fruits, seeds, leaves and trees (Nature’s Jewels, 2014). In 2016 and contributing to the naturalistic theme, Hemmerle are planning on creating a selection of pieces focusing on the use of aluminium, a non-precious metal with a rich history, which is not commonly associated with fine jewellery, and exploring all its properties. They will be launching the [AL] project at TEFAF in March 2016. The press release indicates that the project: ‘consists of over 15 pairs of earrings and a brooch. These one-of-a-kind pieces are inspired by eclectic themes such as nature, minimalism and geometry. Intricately crafted in aluminium and paired with gemstones such as diamonds, sapphires, aquamarines and garnets, the creations reflect Hemmerle’s strong visual identity. Aluminium is a metal with a rich history; once the most valuable and sought after material in the world, it went on to become used in almost every aspect of human life. Christian Hemmerle explains: “Aluminium’s natural strength and lightness in weight provided the perfect opportunity for us to experiment further with the metal and celebrate its past splendour. Its malleability enabled us to focus on innovation and create intricate works, which are delicate in design yet, highly durable, whilst remaining true to our dedication to craftsmanship. Informed by the aesthetic we have defined over several decades, the resulting creations are distinctly Hemmerle but imbued with an element of surprise.” Through a process of anodizing,

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Hemmerle earrings, sapphires, corals, gold, copper, Price on Application, courtesy HemmerleÂ Hemmerle Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 89 24 22 600, www.hemmerle.com

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Hemmerle created aluminium in a variety of hues that complement the natural colours of gemstones.’ The clematis flower brooch, which you can see in the following pages, is exquisitely modelled in aluminium, its petals full of purple nuances anodized to match perfectly in colour its diamond and purple sapphire centre. ‘Our aim is to fulfil an aesthetic rather than large-scale commercial ambition. The family-run nature of our business and the time it takes create our pieces means we will always be specialised contemporary artists rather than a huge global enterprise. We recently completed a necklace that took around 2000 hours of work and we can spent years waiting to find the exact colour stones to complete it,’ Christian describes. There are only a few exceptional craftsmen in the world, who can work at the level they require, and that is why Hemmerle is a crucial party that helps preserve these skills among future generations. ‘More generally’, Christian says, ‘I would like to see high-jewellery more widely recognised as art. This has started to happen with important jewellery shows in museums such as The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Victoria & Albert Museum in London but there is still work to be done.’ There is no doubt Hemmerle has been offering a powerfully audacious modernity, layered with cultural references to art, architecture and artisanship, and as Christian concludes: ‘in the eyes of a collector, timelessness is identifying what will become the antiques of the future.’ www.hemmerle.com

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Hemmerle necklace, moonstones, diamonds, copper, rosĂŠ gold. Price on Application, courtesy HemmerleÂ Hemmerle Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 89 24 22 600, www.hemmerle.com

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Hemmerle earrings, sapphires, porcelain, gold, copper. Price on Application, courtesy Hemmerle Hemmerle Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 89 24 22 600, www.hemmerle.com

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Hemmerle bangle, brown diamonds, wood, copper and white gold. Price on Application, courtesy HemmerleÂ Hemmerle Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 89 24 22 600, www.hemmerle.com

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Hemmerle bracelet, diamonds, gold, bronze. Price on Application, courtesy HemmerleÂ Hemmerle Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 89 24 22 600, www.hemmerle.com

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Hemmerle ring, tsavorites, tourmalines, gold, silver. Price on Application, courtesy HemmerleÂ Hemmerle Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 89 24 22 600, www.hemmerle.com

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B R E AT H TA K I N G B E AU T Y O F G E M S

AMBER by Eva Kountouraki

There are some materials on this planet that have always touched the hearts of humans, no matter the peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural background or their socioeconomic position. Some people hold the warm glow of gold in their hearts and unconditionally donate their light to every person who has the luck to stay or walk by them. This is also true for a luminous gem of many qualities, this special one we call Amber.

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Amber is a gem that derives from a living organism. In fact, amber is fossilized tree resin. These trees are now extinct as in order for the material to be called amber, it has to be at least a million years old.

| BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS There are some materials on this planet that have always touched the hearts of humans, no matter the people’s cultural background or their socioeconomic position. With their serene character and their unique properties they prove the rule which says that the more you are worth the less noise you create. Just like us. Some people hold the warm glow of gold in their hearts and unconditionally donate their light to every person who has the luck to stay or walk by them. This is also true for a luminous gem of many qualities, this special one we call Amber. Amber is a gem that derives from a living organism. In fact, amber is fossilized tree resin. These trees are now extinct as in order for the material to be called amber, it has to be at least a million years old. This origin, as a soft and sticky resin is responsible for the unique and very particular inclusions that we occasionally find inside it; Scientists use amber in order to collect information about the ancient history by studying insects and leaves preserved in it for millennia. For this reason, amber has been given the name “a window to the past”. Paleontologists and archeo-biologists are able to reconstruct life on earth in its early phases by studying amber with insects, plants and spores, liquids like ancient raindrops and even small animals trapped in it, most of which are now extinct. It is calculated that more than 1000 species of extinct insects have been identified inside amber alone! The rarity of these trapped fossils and the state of their preservation indicates the value of this special included amber. Set on precious metals like silver and gold, matched with other gemstones, drilled and strung, carved in decorative or utilitarian objects, dedicated to gods or given as a gift to our loved ones, burnt as incense or used as body perfume, amber has accompanied us in our everyday lives and also crowned our special events since the Neolithic times. Mining for amber is usually easier than crushing mountain hard rock for other gems. In some cases it is more like collecting the amber pieces from the shore or the sea where it floats, traveling from its place of origin to the where the marine currents take it. The Baltic Sea shores hold the world’s largest concentration in amber where this magnificent gem has been extracted in large amounts since the 19th century. The Dominican Republic is the second most important source of amber where extracting involves more hard digging than the usual Baltic soft shoreline mining. Although most people are familiar with yellow and orange amber, this gem occurs in a variety of colours that range from white to red and brown, and tones that can vary from very light to very dark -appearing black under reflected light. In addition, amber can be completely transparent, translucent or totally opaque. In rare occasions, amber may display a bluish or greenish look due to fluorescence or particular inclusions. This exotic look will demand higher prices in the market, while, generally speaking, the most

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Gold & Amber Cup, Anonymous, c. 1600 The exterior of this cup has been polished to a smooth finish. The interior is decorated with carved medallions that become visible only when the lid is removed and light shines through the wall. Gold and amber (fossil resin),

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The result of this glorious pain is the bright and heartwarming precious amber, capable of preserving the fresh and hopeful beauty of life for centuries after death.

| BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS valuable amber is red and transparent. The great majority of amber we find has brown colour and contains gas bubble inclusions which reduce its transparency. To make it more marketable, treaters clarify it with gentle thermal enhancement in oils. Most times, this results in the bursting of the included bubbles that creates the discoid and shiny inclusions which we commonly encounter in average quality amber. When young Phaethon found out what an important god his father was, he rushed to the East, where he found the grand palace of Helios, the great god of Sun, and asked him for a favor. Helios, excited to meet his son, agreed without hesitation, even before listening to his son’s request. Phaethon asked to drive the Sungod’s chariot across the sky. Although Helios knew that this would be very risky he could not refuse an offer that he had already promised, so he allowed his son to drive the mighty chariot for one day. As soon as Phaethon held the reins in his hands he realized that the immortal horses that were dragging the vehicle were too powerful for his strength so the chariot was flying directionless and causing damage and destruction wherever it went; and when it went very close to the ground, it was setting the Earth’s surface on fire. To save the planet and the humans, Zeus threw a thunderbolt at Phaethon instantly killing him and plunging him in the sea. His sisters, the Heliades, sat on the banks of Eridanus River forever mourning and crying for their dead brother, and were eventually transformed into trees. Their teardrops would fall in the river and become bright amber pieces. Young Phaethon wanted to prove himself without considering the consequences of his acts. He created a great destruction that lead to his own death. His loved ones have fallen in an endless grief. However, the result of this glorious pain is the bright and heartwarming precious amber, capable of preserving the fresh and hopeful beauty of life for centuries after death.

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Gold & Amber Cup, Anonymous, c. 1600 - c. 1625 Amber is fossilized tree resin, millions of years old. It is found primarily in the Baltic Sea region. The body of this goblet is decorated with carved reliefs of ancient gods. Surmounting the lid is a gold and enamel figurine of the goddess Minerva. The abundance of gold, enamel and gemstones lends this cup an aura of luxury.

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EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHOICE

esthĂ¨te a person who has or professes to have refined sensitivity toward the beauties of art or nature.

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An exceptional ring by Harry Kotlar

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EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

ULYSSE NARDIN ROYAL PYTHON SKELETON TOURBILLON

Untamed and Exotic, the Ulysse Nardin Royal Python Skeleton Tourbillon Showcases a Design Evolution.

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Lush like the jungle, this “call of the wild” timekeeper is as original in style as it is in makeup. A limited edition of 18 pieces in rose gold 4N, the Royal Python Skeleton Tourbillon presents a fearless character intended for the uninhibited at heart.

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The Ulysse Nardin Skeleton timepiece is a transparent beauty, where the inner workings become the art form. It shares its fluid network of positive and negative space intertwined ever so delicately with its wearer. The seemingly infinite maze of individual movements, parts and bridges are reduced to essential composition and masterfully reinterpreted into a rare piece of work. The Royal Python Skeleton Tourbillon takes the beautiful complexity of its predecessor to an entirely new level. Natural, free-flowing light passes through the timepiece, creating radiant luminosity. Silicium technology and an in-housedeveloped flying tourbillon honor the mechanics of the collection, featuring a silicium balance spring, anchor and escapement wheel. Hand-painted movement bridges dotted with rubies reveal the skill and sensibility of the artist, while exhibiting the wondrous world of Ulysse Nardin’s métiers d’art. A python strap finishes the snakeskin-inspired aesthetic of the entire timepiece. Lush like the jungle, this “call of the wild” timekeeper is as original in style as it is in makeup. A limited edition of 18 pieces in rose gold 4N, the Royal Python Skeleton Tourbillon presents a fearless character intended for the uninhibited at heart. The Story of Ulysse Nardin Born in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1823, Ulysse Nardin followed in the watchmaking footsteps of his father, LéonardFrédéric, apprenticing for him, and later, working with precision timepiece expert William DuBois. In 1846 in Le Locle, at the age of 23, Ulysse Nardin founded the company that still bears his name. He paved the company’s future with his pocket and marine chronometers, setting the benchmark in both civil and military realms. When he died in 1876, his son, Paul-David, took control. Ulysse Nardin grew steadily in success and renown and was crowned by more than 4,300 watchmaking awards, including 18 gold medals. Despite its vast achievements, the firm fell victim to the quartz crisis in 1983 and was put up for sale. Yet, this setback transitioned into something remarkable: a creator of high horology that would propel its own renaissance and become revered, once again, for its revolutionary developments. Convinced the imaginative firm could become a market leader, Rolf W. Schnyder purchased the company. It was Schnyder

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Tec h n ica l Data Limited Edition to 18 pieces Movement Caliber UN-170 Manufacture, Escapement wheel and balance spring in silicium Hand painted bridges, motif Royal python, 23 jewels, 18â&#x20AC;&#x2122;000 V/H

Power-Reserve Approx. 170 h

Winding Manual Winding

Functions Tourbillion, Hours and minutes

Case Rose gold 18 ct , Hand painted flange, motif Royal python

Dimensions 44 mm

Water-resistance 30 m

Crystal Antireflective sapphire crystal

Case-back Sapphire crystal

Band Leather with simple buckle

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For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the horizon. Forever inventive, the m a n u f a c t u r e r r emains steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold innovation with undeniable style.

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meeting with watchmaking genius Dr. Ludwig Oechslin that sparked the turning point for Ulysse Nardin, resulting in the development of many milestones in the watch industry. Innovation remains embedded in the Ulysse Nardin culture, often expressed through breakthrough achievements and the proactive use of new materials, like Silicium. Its many models, including its most iconic works, are housed within a four-pillar system for simple navigation: Marine, Functional, Exceptional and Classico. The Marine pillar pays tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s rich history with the sea and includes exquisite timepieces such as the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Marine Diver and Lady Diver. “Functional” presents the game-changing Perpetual Calendar, Dual Time and Sonata. “Exceptional” showcases the Trilogy of Time series, which catapulted the brand’s comeback, and of course, one cannot forget the Freak, which stunned the Swiss watchmaking industry for its groundbreaking use of Silicium. The category also encompasses the minute repeaters, where time is not only seen, but also heard. The Classico pillar comprises timepieces that integrate in-house dials with the rare, centuries-old art of enameling. For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the horizon. Forever inventive, the manufacturer remains steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold innovation with undeniable style. November 2014 heralds a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Luxury – Watches and Jewellery “ division. Through this acquisition, Kering will support the continuation of Ulysse Nardin’s path of innovation and ensure the future growth of independence in the manufacture of in-house movements. Discover ULYSSE NARDIN at www.ulysse-nardin.com

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Modern Essentials

Style icon David Beckham has shot his latest H&M campaign for the launch of the spring 2016 Modern Essentials selected by David Beckham collection. The commercial was shot on the streets of Lisbon, where David realizes that everyone wants to dress just like him. The new Modern Essentials selected by David Beckham collection will be available in two drops – February 18 and March 10 – in all H&M stores that carry menswear, as well as online. It’s the second time David has worked with director Fredrik Bond, taking on the theme of their last commercial where comedian Kevin Hart dressed exactly like David. In this new film, David leaves his hotel to discover that everyone around him is wearing the same as him, including skateboarding kids, a baby, a grandma, and everyone in the city. The film will be accompanied by a print campaign shot by Mario Sorrenti. The campaign highlights David’s role as a style leader to millions of men around the world. For David, it’s about mixing the traditions of menswear with fresh ideas that move menswear forward. The pieces he wears in the film, all selected by David from the Modern Essentials collection, are the perfect example of his timeless style. Each season sees David select his favourite pieces from the Modern Essentials menswear collection at H&M, creating a wardrobe of updated staples and new classics that men can rely on throughout the whole season.

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Photo courtesy of H&M ÂŠ H&M

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Photo courtesy of H&M ÂŠ H&M

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OPEN CALL new talents

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You are a designer or a photographer ? You want to see your creations in the Jewellery Historian ? Go to our website and submit material today !

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Jewels we

Love In every issue we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life.

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Harry Kotlar

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Yoko London

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Maria Kovadi

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Antonini

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Bayco

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Borgioni

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Jewellery Theatre

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Butani

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Lydia Courteille

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Gaelle Khouri

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Roberto Coin

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Bavna

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Carrera y Carrera

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Arthus-Bernard

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Zolotas

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Goralska

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Boucheron

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MorphĂŠe Joaillerie

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Pasquale Bruni

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Yoko London

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| INSPIRATIONS

INSPIRATIONS

Avesun / SHUTTERSTOCK . COM

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SOPHIA : The universality of Greek thinking and design The Greek language and specifically Greek culture has had a tremendous influence on the european languages and western civilization. Greece was the birthplace of Western culture and democracy. Modern democracies owe a debt to Greek beliefs in government by the people, trial by jury, and equality under the law. The ancient Greeks pioneered in many fields that rely on systematic thought, including biology, geometry, history, philosophy, and physics. They introduced such important literary forms as epic and lyric poetry, history, tragedy, and comedy. In their pursuit of order and proportion, the Greeks created an ideal of beauty that strongly influenced Western art. In our everyday lives we still use Greek root words and definitions all the time. At the Jewellery Historian we felt in love with the amazing collections of SOPHIA-Enjoy thinking.

SOPHIA - Enjoy Thinking is a brand which strives to evoke the authentic and the cultural storytelling of Greek designers through ethical trade and collaborative processes.

They believe in starting local with the hope that these ideas spread globally. By promoting, selling or simply sharing beautiful ideas and products, we can empower local economies and strengthen communities. Based on our history's concept of beauty, health, endurance, strength, victory and wisdom, and inspired by all those things that have remained constant, authentic and true, we created our first collection â&#x20AC;&#x153;Eternity Todayâ&#x20AC;? collection. >

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> Combining eternity with modernity, art and history with design, “Eternity Today” collection is an ever growing line of handmade home accessories, exclusively made in Greece, from statuettes and cushions to tableware and jewelry. Sophia’s second collection “Philosophia” is inspired by the universality of the Greek language. From 166.724 words included in the British dictionary, a total amount of 41.214 words are of Greek origin and derivation. It is distinctive, bold and totally original, wearing its Greekness discreetly: four words that need no translation ―harmony, ecstasy, dialogue and utopia— find their way in tableware, deco and lifestyle items, fashion, wall art, stationery. All Sophia’s products can be found in their e-shop at www.sophia.com.gr

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Quinsai Garden: The timeless elegance of Asian blossoms Thirteenth-century Asia: cities are flourishing, gigantic palaces are being built, exotic trade is thriving. The largest harbour of the time was in the city of Quinsai, known today as Hángzhōu. Its presence helped the city achieve international importance; indeed it was apparently the largest medieval city on earth before Baghdad. For round-the- world voyager Marco Polo, the city was simply the "loveliest and greatest city in the world". The young Venetian had travelled to China with his father and his uncle and was overwhelmed – so overwhelmed that he recorded his impressions. "Le divisament dou monde" (Marco Polo's Travels) made literary history, fascinating Marco Polo's con- temporaries and triggering a European enthusiasm for Asia that is now firmly established. Stylistic quotations from the Asian world are today found everywhere, in fashion, in interiors – and now also on porcelain. >

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> For Quinsai Garden Villeroy & Boch has taken a décor of Asian blossoms, combined it with a paisley pattern in delicate green, and applied it to the successful Modern Grace form. The floral décor features four different blossoms that Marco Polo could have seen on his journey to and around China. All of the flowers have been faithfully drawn by hand: the opulent peony, standing for wealth and noblesse; the delicate camellia, associated with generosity; the colourful chrysanthemum, symbolising courage, stamina and a long life; and the magnificent magnolia, the flower of the emperor and beautiful women. The monochrome paisley pattern provides a bold contrast to the blossoms. Six different plates, one overall composition If the six differently decorated plates are placed next to one another the décor creates a striking overall impression. Wall mounting is available that allows the six plates to be displayed together, forming a convincing decorative highlight. Made in premium bone porcelain and decorates using lithographic techniques is dishwasher proof.

www.villeroy-boch.com

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“Squall” and “Blown” for ROSENTHAL Fascinated by materials' plasticity and limits of deformability, French designer Cédric Ragot designed two new vase series for Rosenthal. Squall and Blown pick up on the idea behind Ragot's already highly successful Fast vase, which he created back in 2007, to capture and freeze the entire dynamics of a movement. Squall and Blown are reminiscent of a whirlwind or vortex, whose elemental force is cast and immortalised in porcelain. The vases are extraordinary design objects with considerable charisma. Squall is available in three sizes (40 cm, 32 cm and 23 cm), Blown in two sizes.

Cédric Ragot (1973–2015) set up his own design studio after graduating from the French National Institute for Advanced Studies in Design, I`ENSCI-Les Ateliers. Among other things, he designed furniture for leading furniture manufacturers such as Roche Bobois. In doing so, he remained true to his philosophy at all times: "There's a great deal of variation in the way the visible part of my works can turn out...In any case, however, I try to find a surprising solution to a given task. This means I have to combine the functional appearance of an object with a suggested conceptual and stylistic solution in order to create greater possibilities of choice corresponding to everybody's emotional and spiritual longings." www.rosenthal.de

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GANT dives deep into swimwear For Spring/Summer 2016 GANT is launching their largest collection of Photo courtesy of GANT © GANT

swimwear yet to date. The collection is inspired by the relaxing lifestyle at sophisticated Manhattan beach clubs and yacht clubs – a modern take on the rich GANT heritage.

The collection is available in a wide range of sophisticated patterns and colors. The focus has been to get the t, materials and shapes designed to perfection.

GANT is positioning the collection at an upper-mid level, selling the high quality swimwear at an affordable price point, without loosing the attention to details that makes the Photo courtesy of GANT © GANT

swimwear truly GANT. The goal is that GANT Swimwear will attract a new consumer as well as a slightly younger audience. The collection for Spring/Summer 2016 is the largest collection of swimwear to ever come from GANT and will be available in stores and online from March 2016. www.gant.com

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Rosenthal elegance of purity Delicate morning dew drops, clinging like tiny jewels to blades of grass and petals, were the inspiration for Charlotte von der Lancken's design Dagg. She has captured the beauty of this moment in a simple vase. Glistening crystal droplets dangle from the 27-cm-high conical vase, as if ready to roll off it at any moment. The size and clarity of the droplets almost give them the appearance of tiny mirrors and turn them into very special gems.

In 2004, together with three friends, Charlotte von der Lancken (born 1978) founded one of the most famous avant-garde design studios in the world, Front Design. Many of her designs, including designs for brands such as Kartell, Hansgrohe, Stelton, Thonet and Moooi, are already regarded as classics. Charlotte von der Lancken likes to experiment with new techniques and materials, designs installations for shops, and gives presentations at universities. Since 2015, she has been working freelance in her own studio in Stockholm. www.rosenthal.de

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Book address

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ANTONINI www.antonini.it

HARRY KOTLAR www.harrykotlar.com

STYLE & INSPIRATIONS

ARTHUS BERTRAND www.arthus-bertrand.fr

HEMMERLE www.hemmerle.com

GANT www.gant.com

BAVNA www.bavna.com

JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com

H&M www.hm.com

BAYCO www.bayco.com

JOHN RUBEL www.johnrubel.com

ROSENTHAL www.rosenthal.de

BORGIONI www.borgionis.com

LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com

SOPHIA Enjoy thinking www.sophia.com.gr

BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com

MARIA KOVADI www.kovadi.com

VILLEROY & BOCH www.villeroy-boch.com

BUTANI www.butani.com

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com

CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com

PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com

CHANEL www.chanel.com

ROBERTO COIN www.robertocoin.com

CHAUMET www.chaumet.com

SOTHEBY’S www.sothebys.com

GAELLE KHOURI www.gaellekhouri.com

ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com

GORALSKA www.goralska.com

YOKO LONDON www.yokolondon.com

GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com

ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr

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