Jewellery Historian issue #04 by JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

Jewellery Historian ISSUE 04 / YEAR 01

#04

ISSUE 04 / YEAR 01

#04 contents

08 Editor's letter

10 News

Editor-in-chief, Lucas SamaltanosFerrier welcomes a new talented generation of designers.

Our teams brings to you the latest news from the jewellery universe.

26 YOGENDRA SETHI

16 VIVAAN

Yogendra Sethi is an renowned artist and jewelry designer. His paintings have inspired him to create his signature line of one-of-a-kind jewels. Using a palette of natural fancy color diamonds, precious gemstones, and 18K white, yellow and pink gold, Yogendra depicts incredible displays of nature in his handcrafted jewels.

With a palette of natural fancy color diamonds, rose cuts, unique gemstones set in 18kt white, yellow and rose gold, every piece at VIVAAN is an artwork in itself.

38 TRAVEL : PARIS 40 MOUSSON ATELIER

The City of Light and Capital of Fashion, it is home to the world's finest and most luxurious fashion & jewellery designers.

Founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company while paying great importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in its beauty.

60 JACK VARTANIAN Since 1999, Jack Vartanian has created fine jewelry collections infused with a unique blend of tradition, sophistication and avantgarde design.

74 FARAH KHAN Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but an artist of masterpieces and an orator of stories. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible and her tales of thought, inspiration and craftsmanship is narrated within her bejeweled jewellery theatre.

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Jewellery Historian 108 ADLER Adler introduced us to their new Haute Joaillerie parures . This exquisite collection entitled ‘Anniversaries in History’ pays homage to the jeweller’s rich history of almost 130 years dedicated to celebrating the fusion of the creative arts with the technicality of innovative design.

ISSUE 04, YEAR 01 OCTOBER 2014 L u c a s S a m a l t a n o s - F e r r i e r Founder & Editor-in-chief

*** C O N T R I B U T O R S / C O R R E S P O N D E N T S E v a K o u n t o u r a k i M a r t i n H u y n h C h r i s t i n a R o d o p o u l o u

*** L A Y - O U T & D E S I G N J e w e l l e r y H i s t o r i a n

***

122 THE BIRTH OF MASTERPIECES Hundreds of working hours are required to make the unique masterpieces of Farah Khan. The Jewellery Historian was invited to follow the steps in making these amazing masterpieces at Farah Khan Fine Jewellery and we proudly present you this amazing world, where masterpieces are born.

144 THE UNIQUE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS : OPAL Eva Kountouraki, introduces us this month the Opal , the most famous of the phenomenal gemstones, that is, the gemstones that exhibit a particular and unusual optical effect

148 OUR FAVES At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelry for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life.

www.jewelleryhistorian.com e - m a i l : i n f o @ j e w e l l e r y h i s t o r i a n . c o m

*** PUBLISHED & DISTRIBUTED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

H O M O E V O L U T I O N

Chomatianou 26, 10439 Athens, Greece

*** All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles are the author's own and do not reflect the view of the Jewellery Historian, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this site is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or e- magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

Photo courtesy of Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier ÂŠ Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

Editor's letter

Every month, at the Jewellery Historian, we see amazing masterpieces of jewellery. We are honored for the trust and support of jewellery designers and brands. We are proud to be recognized by our readers and to have so many thousands around the globe, in such a small period of time. Each issue, requests huge ammounts of time and of work. This would not be possible without the support of our readers. The fact that we already have so many readers all over the world make us proud and give us the energy we need to continue this great and unique aventure. But it is also a huge responsibility and we work hard to offer you the best in every issue. Once more, in this new issue, I would like to invite you to discover unique masterpieces, created by the most talented designers and goldsmiths of our planet. Jewellery gives you experience glamour, luxury, and elegance. With the right jewellery you can cherish the special memories and intimate luxury that a real piece of jewelry will bring to you on important days of your life. At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelry for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. We handpick the designers and brands we showcase in our articles, in order to allow you to discover their unique creative universe. To transform an idea, a dream into a piece of jewellery requires hundreds of working hours, skills and human energy and we are proud to showcase this amazing "trip", from "dream" to "birth".

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

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S W NE NIKOS KOULIS OPENS ATHENS BOUTIQUE The first Nikos Koulis Jewels boutique in Athens, located in its posh shopping area in the center of the city, is a product of a constant, evolving intercourse between masculine and feminine elements. The sources of inspiration behind its creation are universal: references to a G. Gershwin melody, a phrase by F. S. Fitzgerald, the decolorized photography of classic films, the electrical vibe of New York, Paris and Shanghai during the 30’s and 40’s. The result is the creation of an atmospheric space resembling a woman’s boudoir, combined with the mystery of an austere men’s lounge. The dialogue between the eternal game of menwomen attraction is reflected in all the design facets: fine grey flannel on the walls, grey, black and dark green marbles, intense metals such as bronze and back iron, display forms made of cement co-existing with art deco curved mirrors, custom-made graceful lighting sconces, velvet and rattan textures. The space as a whole establishes the privacy and proximity, rede!ning the the position of the client toward his objects of desire - Nikos Koulis fine jewelry. Designed by the Athens-based Stage Design Office, Stavros Papagiannis & Yorgos Kiriazis, in a close collaboration with the brand owners, Nikos Koulis Jewels boutique exceeds the commercial character of a store, inviting its clients to experience the intimacy of an 010 Jewellery Historian

uncon!ned, private moment. Alexandros Papadias designed the marble sconces, the tailor-made vitrine étalage, as well as the bronze door knobs; Michael Anastassiades the satin brass lights, while Cypriot artist Socrates Socratous has created an in-situ installation in the outdoor display, while classic music is played from the outdoor loudspeakers, creating a sensation to visitors and re"ecting Nikos Koulis’ intricate philosophy. Design: Stage Design Office Tailor-made objects: Alexandros Papadias Lighting design: L4A Photographs: Panayotis Baxevanis, Grey Studio

Nikos Koulis Jewels boutiques Athens Filikis Eterias 15, Kolonaki Square +30 210-7233783 Mykonos N. Kalogera, 35, Chora +30 22890-28688 www.nikoskoulis.gr

Photo courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS

Photo courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS Photo courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS

Photo courtesy of NIKOS KOULIS © NIKOS KOULIS

"The sources of inspiration behind its creation are universal: references to a G. Gershwin melody, a phrase by F. S. Fitzgerald, the decolorized photography of classic films, the electrical vibe of New York, Paris and Shanghai d u r i n g t h e 3 0 ’ s a n d 4 0 ’ s . "

NEW

IN TO WN Jewellery Historian

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AVAKIAN UNVEILS ITS LATEST COLLECTION IN MONACO

Panoramic coastal views of the Mediterranean, a spectacular sunset, rose champagne, flowing and a rarefied haute joaillerie colored diamond jewellery collection. Against the backdrop AVAKIAN held its annual Monaco summer exhibition cocktails at the glamorous Hotel Hermitage in Monte Carlo.

Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

UNIQU E EVENT

Highlights in a gamut of hues ranged from a pair of intricately designed pink diamonds earrings set with two pear shaped pink diamonds and surrounded by small white pear shaped diamonds. To a ring mounted with an internally flawless 3,97carat fancy pink diamond of the highest quality. A 3.29 carat radiant cut fancy light blue diamond ring and earrings set with two fancy yellow radiant shaped diamonds totaling ten carats and accented with pink diamonds. 012 Jewellery Historian

Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

AVAKIAN family members were on hand to welcome their special guests and introduce them to the third generation Geneva headquartered jeweller’s latest haute joaillerie colored diamonds collection, a veritable feast for the eyes.

www.avakian.com

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Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

NOUDAR JEWELS LIGHT UP LONDON FASHION WEEK Noudar Jewels took to the catwalk stunning the crowds with an exclusive collaboration with Julien Macdonald for his SS’15 London Fashion Week show. The much anticipated new collection by Noudar debuted yesterday in the elegant setting of The Royal Opera House, presenting an incredible selection of new designs and exclusive pieces. There was plenty of sparkle and glamour on the catwalk with Julien presenting a range of slim fitting pencil dresses, printed skater silhouettes and ruffled swimsuits, accessorised by an exclusive range of Noudar Jewels, complementing Julien's signature look.

He revealed that his inspiration for the collection, which had a theme of flowers mixed with tattoos, was a mermaid who lives in a tropical sea. Noor Al Fardan, founder and designer of Noudar Jewels, has always been fascinated with watches at the mechanisms behind the art of watch making and this has greatly influenced Noudar’s jewellery, emphasising the importance of the craftsmanship to enable more comfort, movement and flexibility in her creations. Noudar Jewels creations are available at Frost of London situated on New Bond Street. www.noudar.com

Photo courtesy of NOUDAR © NOUDAR

Featuring a range of precious metals including white, yellow and rose gold, as well as rhodium implemented with white and fancy colour diamonds, rubies and emeralds making the new collection eclectic and distinctively recognisable with the signature Noudar-style ring set and finger bracelets. Julien unveiled a diamond-embroidered wedding dress worth more than £4 million. The bridal gown was the highlight of the show at The Royal Opera House.

“I am so pleased to have collaborated with NoudarJewels at my Spring Summer 2015 Show. Her designs are absolutely beautiful, delicate and intricate - they compliment my collection.” says Julien Macdonald.

Wowing the crowds the look was completed by a signature Noudar white gold double ring.

Photo courtesy of NOUDAR © NOUDAR

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submissions At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. Our mission is to promote, inspire and educate, so we expect designers and brands whose work we feature to be generous with their knowledge. We always look also for talented photographers who want to show to our readers their unique creative skills and their creativity. We welcome you to submit any and all original designs, thoughts and concepts you'd like to share. Just keep in mind that we only write about jewellery made in gold, platinum or other precious metals but we never publish articles about costume jewellery. You should be eager to describe and explain aspects of craft; you should be willing to take photos of a work in progress or document the process in some way. If you would like to show us your jewellery creations to consider featuring in the website and our e-magazine, please follow the instructions as provided at www.jewelleryhistorian.com We accept submission ideas for a wide variety of topics. Please be sure to download the Submission Guidelines, which contain directions on how you can submit your material for review. The Submission Guidelines contain detailed directions for how to submit your proposals.

Photo courtesy of Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier ÂŠ Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

Send us your proposal today at info@jewelleryhistorian.com or visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com for further information.

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Photo courtesy of VIVAAN © VIVAAN

VIVAAN Pure Passion

With a palette of natural fancy color diamonds, rose cuts, unique gemstones set in 18kt white, yellow and rose gold, every piece at VIVAAN is an artwork in itself. Each ornament is beautifully designed and intricately handcrafted by in-house team of ardent stylists and craftsmen. The nonpareil pieces in Contemporary and Art deco styles utilize the stunning spectrum of colors found naturally in diamonds resulting in an aesthetic culmination that is sure to please the senses. At VIVAAN, art is cultured in the air.

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Photo courtesy of VIVAAN © VIVAAN

VIVAAN Pure Passion

VIVAAN is a lasting legacy of artistic values of

restorative, invigoration and healing powers.

exquisite fine jewelry collected by an exclusive global clientele. VIVAAN - The collection is inspired

Vivaan Jewelry is graciously hand-crafted by

by the elements of nature and showcases rose-

master artisans under the guidance of the

cuts, old mine cuts, raw and slice diamonds in a rich

company’s lead design director, who creatively re-

palate of vivid color combinations from natural,

imagines antique jewelry designs into new designs

fancy-colored diamonds, and precious gemstones

that are suited for today’s lifestyles. Inspired by

set in 18 karat white, yellow and rose gold.

the feminine form and the gemstones themselves, the collection must be experienced. It will capture

VIVAAN's designers are renowned jewelry artists.

your dreams, adding life to exquisite jewelry.

Landscapes, nature; the prismatic, ever-changing world, and the colorful lands of Central India inspire their jewelry designs. Their designs with natural fancy color diamonds reflect a masterful artistry, enhanced with a modern interpretation and infused with life forces of the natural world. Vivaan believes jewelry is art and that art itself has

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Photo courtesy of VIVAAN © VIVAAN

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YOGENDRA SETHI The painter jeweller

Yogendra Sethi is an renowned artist and jewelry designer. As a prolific painter Yogendra Sethi chooses unique inhabitants for his world;; rocks assume human forms and indulge in various casual activities. He captures aesthetic pleasures in mountains, cliffs and valleys in his contemporary acrylic paintings and watercolor landscapes. His paintings have inspired him to create his signature line of one-of-a-kind jewels. Using a palette of natural fancy color diamonds, precious gemstones, and 18K white, yellow and pink gold, Yogendra depicts incredible displays of nature in his handcrafted jewels.

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YOGENDRA SETHI The painter jeweller Yogendra

originating

from

Indore,

heritage capital of Central India, had the making of an impressionist in his early years. His academic career is a unique amalgam of arts and commerce. His endeavors in field of Fine Arts earned him a degree of MFA from the Indore School of Fine Arts in 1973. He took another leap by graduating as an MBA from Berkeley, California in 1975. Yogendra initially, painted the rustic countryside of India. Later he was overwhelmed

with

the

unsurpassed

beauty of Berkeley Hills, and he captured the natural wonders of California in series of

many

outdoor

landscapes

transparent watercolors. Yogendra Sethi, is a renowned jewelry artist and acclaimed international painter. Landscapes, nature;; the prismatic, ever- changing world, and the colorful lands of his homeland in Central India inspire his jewelry designs. Mr. Sethi’s paintings and one-of-a-kind Signature jewelry designs were featured at the National Arts Club in New York City. Mr. Sethi is currently featured in galleries around the world.

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His philosophy is best explained by his belief: “Life is a rainbow. The more color you infuse, the more you enjoy it!” Mr. Sethi believes jewelry is art and that art itself has restorative, invigoration and healing powers. Yogendra seem to assuage the hardness of diamonds with his subtle exploits on the canvas, depicting the exhibits of nature. His expertise with “natural fancy color diamonds” allowed him to master unusual prismatic forms. Award

winner

jewellery

designer

Yogendra is the first choice of many international star celebrities.

www.vivaan.us

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“ S E N S A T I O N ” Yogendra an Impressionist, draws upon his palette of colors of Natural Fancy Color Diamonds and other Gem Stones to create unique jewelry. The Pendant-Brooch is designed in 18k Gold with mountains of 3.16cts. of Natural Fancy Pink, Yellow, Green, Orange, Champagne and White Diamonds and clusters of 2.47cts. Rose Cut Diamond clouds kissing its feet. This magnificent work of art is held with a sensational force of 3 Green Tourmalines 49.52cts. combining in a total weight of 39.750gms. and is 81 x 41 x 5 mm. in dimensions.

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“Lifeisarainbow.Themorecoloryouinfuse,themore you enjoy it!”

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“ W H I S P E R ” Yogendra being an Artist uses his palette of colors of Natural Fancy Color Diamonds and other Gemstones to create unique jewelry. The Pendant-Brooch is designed as a unique landscape, with whispering mountains depicting human figures in 2.31cts. Natural Pink and Yellow Diamonds complimented by 2.02cts. Natural Green Diamonds. The three corners of this delicate piece are accented by six Round Rose Cut Diamonds 0.75cts. This art piece weighs 16.580gms. in 18k gold and is 75 x 35mm. in dimensions. The Painting Yogendra depicts human forms in mountains and valleys with Acrylic medium on Canvas. This jewelry piece is an extravagant display of the concept of his paintings.

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Photo courtesy of YNY Jewels © YNY Jewels

Photo courtesy of Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier © Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

travel

PARIS Paris, the cosmopolitan capital of France, is, with 2.2 million people living in the dense, central city and almost 12 million people living in the whole metropolitan area, one of the largest agglomerations in Europe. Located in the north of France on the river Seine, Paris is the most beautiful and romantic of all cities.

FOUR SEASONS HÔTEL GEORGE V A stone's throw from the Champs Elysées, the Four Seasons George V Paris defines the notion of refinement and service in the City of Light. The Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris is an eight storey building dating back to 1928. It comprises 244 guest rooms, of which a quarter are suites. All the rooms are luxurious and carry unique architectural features. A large number of them open on to a terrace overlooking the most romantic city in the world. www.fourseasons.com/paris

The Peninsula Paris Perfectly situated at 19 Avenue Kléber, just steps from the Arc de Triomphe, The Peninsula sits in the heart of Paris within walking distance of some of the world’s most famous monuments, museums and luxury shopping districts.Steeped in history, the property has been meticulously restored and discreetly modernised with the ultimate in 21st century convenience. The Peninsula houses 200 luxurious rooms, including 34 suites, which are among the most spectacular in the city. http://paris.peninsula.com

Brimming with historic associations Paris remains vastly influential in the realms of culture, art, fashion, food, jewellery and design. Dubbed the City of Light (la Ville Lumière) and Capital of Fashion, it is home to the world's finest and most luxurious fashion & jewellery designers.

Photo courtesy of MOUSSON ATELIER

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MOUSSON

atelier

creati v i t y in

motion

Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company while paying great importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in its beauty.

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MOUSSON

atelier

creati v i t y in

motion

Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Mousson Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company. They pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in its beauty. At Mousson Atelier they select the highest quality materials:18 K gold of different colors, precious stones of various shapes, colors, sizes and cuts. Together these components turn into a wide variety of unique creatures. The flawless creation of the jewellery is the product of advanced technologies of jewelry industry & high-grade hand work. Working daily with jewelry, they know that there are things which are much more important than 042 Jewellery Â Historian

gold and diamonds. What are the values of "Mousson Atelier"? Self-Expression Each bright personality is beautiful in its uniqueness. They appreciate those who can bravely make a statement and who do not hesitate to reveal his or her identity every second. Mousson Atelier jewellery is unique, original and attractive - worthy setting for the extraordinary person. Creativity Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became innovators in what we do. Creativity has become an integral part of us, and it allows them to give rise to more and more new images!

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Beauty A flash of inspiration allows them to leave the narrow frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beautiful in everything - and show it to others. Each creation of Mousson Atelier is "beauty, setted in precious metals and stones". Nature Elegant, fancy natural lines, attractive bright colors ... Images of all their creations are born by nature - and therefore by life itself. Life is limitless and always unexpected. This is fully reflected in the Mousson Atelier collections - a hymn to nature and life.

www.moussonatelier.ru

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Real wonders happen in the Mousson atelier workshop! Responsible & original in creating jewellery they love their work & creativity! Thereare9 painstaking&interestingstepsofjewellerycreation.Take a look at the workshop & find out how they create unique jewellery collections!

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Photo courtesy of Jack Vartanian © Jack Vartanian

JACK

VARTANIAN

Blend of tradition, urban style and glamorous sophistication

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Photo courtesy of Jack Vartanian ÂŠ Jack Vartanian

JACK

VARTANIAN

Blend of tradition, urban style and glamorous sophistication Since 1999, Jack Vartanian has created fine jewelry collections infused with a unique blend of tradition, sophistication and avant-garde design. Vartanian's passion for precious stones comes from his family long standing tradition in the gemstone trade. The Vartanian family business provided an early exposure and practical training for the designer. Jack began working in the jewelry industry as a teenager, developing his design skills at an early age. 062 Jewellery Â Historian

His design perspective evolved as he traveled the world and immersed himself in the study of art and design history, and discovered new stones. The result of his dedication to the craft is reflected in the brand's timeless yet contemporary pieces, "new classics" designed for all occasions. Each piece of the collection is an object of desire that evokes new ways of using materials like gold, rhodium, black diamonds, white diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires to create truly innovative jewels.

"My designs suit day and night and can be worn by women of different styles on any occasion" states Jack Vartanian. "What they all have in common is a desire to stand out". The secret to Vartanian's success for the past almost 15 years is the combination of classic forms, bold color and a definite design edge. Contrary to fine jewelry designers all over the world, Jack Vartanian launches new collections with amazing regularity, always surprising his clients, the media, and opinion leaders with his personal and often sexy, irreverent take on luxury fashion, social trends and pop culture.

"My designs suit day and night and can be worn by women of different styles on any occasion" states Jack Vartanian.

Photo courtesy of Jack Vartanian © Jack Vartanian

Walking into a Jack Vartanian boutique is a sensorial experience that reflects the brand's attention todetailateverylevel.TheFrenchBrazilian architecture firm Triptyque designed the spaces with clean black lines and a striking asymmetric architectural details, creating a perfectly dark, minimalist but super rich environment where his jewels are shown as in an art gallery, bridging the gap between commerce and art. His retail locations include Shops at Iguatemi in São Paulo and Fashion Mall in Rio de Janeiro. The United States flagship boutique is located on Madison Avenue, in New York City. His collections can also be seen in luxury boutiques and the famed American department store Barney's New York.

Walking into a Jack Vartanian boutique is a sensorial experience that reflects the brand's attention to detail at every level. Jewellery Historian

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Photo courtesy of Jack Vartanian © Jack Vartanian

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Founded in 1999, the brand's designer, Jack Vartanian, has created jewelry with cutting edge design in a way that enhances the natural beauty of each stone. His jewelry explores the excellence in gold, rhodium, black diamonds, white diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and designer´s favorite, sapphires. The workmanship resembles French haute couture, in which the construction is entirely handmade by meticulous professionals using unique techniques of stone setting. The quality control is strict at all stages of the creation process, from sculpting to finishing. Throughout his career, Jack Vartanian has established himself in Brazil and abroad as a leading jewelry designer. He has created strong trends in the segment - fringed earrings, accessories with studs, and jewels and textures on the back of the earrings – which have been featured in major fashion editorials. The brands timeless pieces blend exquisite workmanship with elegant and cool design, always current with the fashion world. "I create jewelry that transitions from day to night, that can be used by women of various styles on any occasion", says Jack. Today the brands flagship is located in São Paulo on Rua Bela Cintra . The store was designed by Triptyque, providing a unique ambiance and shopping experience. Other locations include Shopping Iguatemi São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, at the Fashion Mall and in Curitiba, Shopping Crystal. In the United States, the flagship is located in New York on Madison Avenue and the brand is also sold at Barneys New York, Chicago and Beverly Hills.

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Photo courtesy of Farah Khan Fine Jewellery © Farah Khan Fine Jewellery

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Farah Khan Where Precious becomes Priceless

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but an artist of masterpieces and an orator of stories. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible and her tales of thought, inspiration and craftsmanship is narrated within her bejeweled jewellery theatre.

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Farah Khan Where Precious becomes Priceless Farah Khan-Ali is a renowned Jewellery designer and gemologist who’s foray the jewellery line was purely by chance when she decided to do a course in Gemology at the renowned Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica, California in 1992. She graduated at the top of her class. Farah Khan-Ali has always been creatively inclined. Her sense of visual perception stimulates her senses to see design in the most least expected places. In her own words she says “I view the world around us from a different perspective. What necessarily is to others is not what I see it as. I am captivated by our natural environment and any form, shape that catches my fancy stimulates me to translate that inanimate thought into an animate object of beauty and art.” Having designed for some of the top Bollywood celebrities and people from India's 076 Jewellery Historian

foremost business families, she insists on being a perfectionist who loves to please herself first so that so that she can eventually please her clients. She admits that she has to do everything well so that it all comes together eventually. With 21 years of focus and experience in this field, she still feels like a creatively inclined soul who happened to come into Jewellery Designing by chance, only to discover that she was born for it. “When I play with precious gemstones its like creating an object of beauty and desire, one that outlives its wearer and brings a sea of memories with it when it is handed down generation.” – Farah Khan As she says “ I don’t love to design, I live to design” and “the day I discover myself, I shall cease to exist”.

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cover To find great beauty, one must look beyond what one can see, Deep within the inner depths of ones soul, For what cannot be seen is alas a limitation of a barren locked mind. Seek then to discover the world and thou shall find yourself as I did find I, For only when you look, you shall see.

Farah Khan

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer, but an artist masterpieces and an orator of stories. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible and her tales of thought, inspiration and craftsmanship is narrated within her bejeweled jewellery theatre Pioneering and carving a niche redefining the jewellery industry; The first to create bespoke jewellery designs. She sees the world through a precious gem encrusted lens for sure. Her designs have movement, her jewellery reflects light. Suddenly they're alive, ethereal and bright. She is metamorphosing the ordinary to exquite pieces of art. The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery story is a twenty year romance with exquisite gems stones.A romance that crafts and chisels metal into life Jewellery you can’t take your eyes off, One that outlives its wearer and lives forever. Becoming classic and timeless, Where precious becomes priceless. Today, her jewels leave a signature behind, Farah Khan Fine Jewellery is ornately alive. Farah Khan doesn’t love to design. Farah Khan lives to design!!!!

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RECYCLING IS A RESPONSIBILITY WE ALL SHARE

Consider the environment before printing this issue

Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

RIC O T S I H D N A R B

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Anniversaries in History

Adler introduced us to their new Haute Joaillerie parures and we are proud to showcase in this issue. This exquisite collection entitled ‘Anniversaries in History’ pays homage to the jeweller’s rich history of almost 130 years dedicated to celebrating the fusion of the creative arts with the technicality of innovative design. Encompassing five unique white gold and diamond necklace and earring sets, the collection reflects Adler’s passion for creative talent as it traverses in art history. Jewellery Historian

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This page : Necklace "Le Songe d'une nuit d'été" in 18kt white gold set with 48 pear-shaped diamonds 46.07 cts and 716 diamonds 35.01 cts Previous page : Necklace "La Princesse d'Élide" in 18kt white and yellow gold set with one Fancy Brownish Yellow pear-shaped diamond 23.33 cts and 200 diamonds 52.4 cts

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Intense passion, daring originality and classic elegance, the House of Adler’s unique Autumn/Winter 2014 Haute Joaillerie rejoices in the inspiring timelessness of the arts. The exquisite collection entitled ‘Anniversaries in History’, pays homage to the jeweller’s rich history of almost 130 years dedicated to celebrating the fusion of the creative arts with the technicality of innovative design. Encompassing five unique white gold and diamond necklace and earring sets, the collection reflects Adler’s passion for creative talent as it traverses memorable moments in art history; weaving a timeline from the ageless greats of French and English theatre, to the golden era of Hollywood, through to the talents of modern writing.

Earrings "Le Songe d'une nuit d'été" in 18kt white gold set with 12 pear-shaped diamonds 8.93 cts and 116 diamonds 2.82 cts

Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

With its origins in the Ottoman Empire, the Swiss-based Haute Joaillerie is one of the last remaining family fine jewellers. Acclaimed for its exquisite, sensual designs and artful use of materials, the jeweller is as famous for fusing the exoticism of the East with the precision of the West, as it is for its dedication to supporting film, theatre, the fine arts and narrative. For Adler, jewellery embodies the pinnacle of human creativity. This fine jeweller has always celebrated to mark this union by the exhibiting of works in its store windows from an eclectic range of both celebrated and lesserknown artists, through its arts-inspired campaigns and to now, with its Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, ‘Anniversaries in History.’>

Sketch of "Le Songe d'une nuit d'été" set

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Jacques Adler

"The exquisite collection entitled ‘Anniversaries in History’, pays homage to the jeweller’s rich history of almost 130 years dedicated to Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

Edouard Adler

celebrating the fusion of the creative arts with the technicality of innovative design."

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Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

>The Adler story began in bustling Istanbul in the late 19th century, a time when the city was a world-class capital of jewellery. Jacques Adler (photo top right) , a Viennese trained goldsmith, moved to Istanbul to establish a workshop producing jewels that were soon sought after by royalty. Almost a century later, his grandson Franklin Adler transported the company to another global jewellery capital, Geneva. Till this day, from its Geneva headquarters, the Adler family is intimately involved with every aspect of the business – buying and polishing gemstones, designing and crafting jewellery and running an exclusive network of boutiques in Geneva, London, Hong Kong and Gstaad. From the window displays to the interior detailing, from the luscious oriental rugs on the boutique floors to the warm curves of its jewellery designs, Adler continues to bring together the West’s technical excellence with the magic and exoticism of the East.>

Fascinating, unique, sensual, Marilyn Monroe, eternal icon of Hollywood glamour, was also a woman with multiple facets. Endowed with a voice of gold, she liked to sing of her love of diamonds, calling them “a girl’s best friend”. Today, a worthy tribute to a star that shines still takes the form of an exquisite white gold necklace. A river of diamonds encircles the neck, effortlessly following the contours of the bust. Marilyn Monroe marked the history of cinema forever, leaving in her wake an aura of femininity and grace. Unquestionably this necklace, too, will be unforgettable.

Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

Necklace "Rivière sans retour" in 18kt white gold set with one pear-shaped diamonds 10.02 cts and diamonds 50.22 cts Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

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Earrings "La Princesse d'Élide" in 18kt white and yellow gold set with 2 Fancy Yellow pear-shaped diamonds 10.69 cts, 2 pear-shaped diamonds 6.32 cts, 56 diamonds 1.04 cts and 66 yellow diamonds 0.62 ct

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> For Adler, jewellery embodies the pinnacle of human creativity. A retrospective glance through Adler’s advertising campaigns of the last 40 years reveals a brand that views jewellery in tandem with masterpieces of artistic expression, from theatre to architecture. For over a decade, Adler ran the tagline “Jewels Are The Memories Of The World”. Advertisements showing Adler jewels crafted to mirror the lines of iconic buildings draw attention to the similarities between architecture in buildings and in jewellery. In both there is a focus on noble materials and smooth textures, all created with an uncompromising detail and precision, along with the potential for icons to outlive their makers.

powerful, dream-like female images in sepia photography. As professional and entrepreneurial women become a growing force in the jewellery market, buying increasingly precious jewellery and more of it than ever before, today Adler’s newest advertisements continue to place contemporary women at their heart. Adler is an innovator now as much as it ever was. Decades ago, it introduced steel, wood and silk into its designs and daringly combined vivid sapphires with emeralds at a time when this was unheard-of. Nowadays, Adler is pushing the limits of carbon by teaming its matt fibrous texture with sparkling gemstones to fashion its Eclipse jewels, creating a new generation of treasures and memories to savour and safeguard.>

Adler’s longest running advertising campaign was “Mémoires de Femmes. Mémoire du Monde”, a series of

The workshop in Istanbul

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>Diamond has always been associated with virtues. From the Latin “diamas”, itself derived from the Greek “adamas” meaning invincible, the diamond is the emblem of perfection, purity and power. For the Greeks and Romans, it seems nothing was impossible. They bequeathed to us the laurel, a timeless motif of recognition and distinction still used today to mark the achievements of our peers.

Sketch of “Victoire” set

It is not surprising therefore to see two symbols of manifest values associated in the "Victoire" jeweller y set. whose reach knows no bounds.

This adornment graciously embodies two symbols that have endured for millennia, with 22.50 carat pear-shaped diamonds arranged as laurel crowns. A fusion of genius and radiance, resulting in exquisite pieces whose beauty is inalienable.>

Earrings "Victoire" in 18kt white gold set with 10 pear-shaped diamonds 7.21 cts and 112 diamonds 5.59 cts

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Necklace "Victoire" in 18kt white gold set with 20 pear-shaped diamonds 22.50 cts and 246 diamonds 34.99 cts Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

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>Inspired by Marguerite Duras’ novel "La Pluie d'été", Adler has designed an ensemble that reflects the charm of summer rain, with a white gold necklace set with 471 diamonds for 25.13 carats, tumbling down to culminate in six pear-cut diamonds for 27.47 carats, like precious, glittering raindrops Photo courtesy of ADLER JOAILLIERS © ADLER JOAILLIERS

Glorious summer brings its garland of sun and heat, dolce vita fills the air, and then, as if to cool summer's ardour, the sky pours down abundant raindrops. The grass and leaves welcome these gentle and radiant pearls, the gift of the sky, be witched by all this natural beauty.

The necklace "La Pluie d'été" (photo right) is made in 18kt white gold and set with 6 pear-shaped diamonds 27.47 cts and 471 diamonds 25.13 cts The earrings (photo top, left) are set with 441 diamonds for 21.26 carats, and deploy all their finery to trick >350 years ago, Molière created a princess who, the eye and give the impression of a scintillating although courted by three princes, sought only to be desired by the one who showed her the greatest disdain. The Princess of Elid, an enchanting comedy that is still considered to be a historic milestone, was Adler’s inspiration for a gracious and romantic ensemble in its image. Seduction, a dominant theme in the play, is a key feature of these unique creations.

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A necklace in yellow and white gold, set with a ‘Fancy Brownish Yellow’ (see, first page of this article) pear-cut diamond for 23.33 carats and 200 diamonds, complemented by earrings set with two ‘Fancy Yellow’ pear-cut diamonds for 10.69 carats, form an exceptional duo. These captivating and harmonious pieces offer a fine tribute to the masterpiece presented by Molière at Versailles in 1664.

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"Inspired by Marguerite Duras’ novel "La Pluie d'été", Adler has designed an ensemble that reflects the charm of summer rain"

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Farah Khan The Birth of Masterpieces

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but an artist of masterpieces. Hundreds of working hours are required to make her unique masterpieces and her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible and her tales of thought, inspiration and craftsmanship is narrated within her bejeweled jewellery theatre. The Jewellery Historian was invited to follow the steps in making these amazing masterpieces at Farah Khan Fine Jewellery and we proudly present you this amazing world, where masterpieces are born. Jewellery Historian

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The unique Breathtaking Beauty of NEW COLUM N

GEMS

THE MOST FAMOUS PHENOMENAL GEMSTONE by Eva Kountouraki, Graduate Gemologist ( GIA )

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.

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Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to welcome Eva Kountouraki and our new monthly column. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

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OPAL THE MOST FAMOUS PHENOMENAL GEMSTONE by Eva Kountouraki, Graduate Gemologist ( GIA ) A passionate artist’s colorful brush strokes, a summer night’s starry sky, or dancing fireworks, our imagination can only fly when looking at a beautiful opal. The roman philosopher Pliny the elder described opal as “Having a refulgent fire of the carbuncle (ruby or garnet), the glorious purple of amethyst, the sea green of emerald, and all those colours glittering together mixed in an incredible way”. Opal is the most famous of the phenomenal gemstones, that is, the gemstones that exhibit a particular and unusual optical effect. It has an important historic value as it is a gemstone that has been often mentioned in ancient texts, treasured by royals and was bestowed with magical powers throughout the history. It is a gem that was held in high esteem since the ancient Egyptian and Roman times when it was considered to be a symbol of purity and worn as a good luck charm. This high esteem was shaken for some time with Sir Walter Scott's novels, Anne of Geierstein in 1829, when people misconceived the text and jumped to the conclusion that opal would bring bad luck. Obviously folkloristic legends exist for all beautiful things in our world, including gemstones, and we can easily understand that these are simply superstitions and groundless popular beliefs of the past. Opals are extraordinary gems and the only ones that can exhibit all colours of the spectrum in a single specimen. What creates the beautiful play-of-colour (this is how we 146 Jewellery Historian

call the optical effect of shifting colours that precious opal exhibits) is actually an interaction between the light that strikes the gem and its unique structure and chemistry. Opals are composed of millions of submicroscopic silica spheres together with a water mixture in between. The difference in the way these two materials bend the light that strikes them, results in the creation of the diffraction phenomenon we see as many colours moving around as we move the gem. The size of the spheres, the spaces between them and their arrangement decides the quality of the phenomenon and which colour we see the most on our opal, with red being the most desirable, and thus the most expensive. Opals form in conditions of extreme heat (in desert areas with strong seasonal rainfalls and alternating dry and wet periods) and it takes a long and steady evaporation rate of the water to create precious opal that we can use for jewelry purposes. When this rate is uneven the result is what we call “common” opal, which is beautiful for mineral collectors, but the lack of phenomenon makes it less desirable for use in the jewelry industry. Today the major source of opal is Australia that provides about 90% of the world’s supply in opal. Other important sources include Ethiopia, Brazil, Mexico, Canada and the Honduras.

Opals come in various colours, and as mentioned above, not all of them exhibit the play-of- colour phenomenon. The most desired bodycolour of the opal is black (or dark gray) because it tends to absorb any light that is transmitted through the stone that would otherwise be scattered through the gem and this way weaken the color flashes. A dark and opaque or semi-translucent background creates a beautiful contrast with the colours of the phenomenon. As far as the phenomenon itself is concerned what the market prefers is large and distinct patches of colour (the so-called harlequin pattern) with a predominance of the red colour. More often we observe smaller dots or large flashes of cool colours such as blue and green, while contemporary designers tend to use the so called boulder opal, that is layers of precious opal within its host rock, cut and polished with this matrix attached. This results in very interesting and unique gemstones, for one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces. One type of opal that is used in jewelry even when it does not exhibit play-of-colour is the fire opal, a beautiful –usually transparent or translucent- opal that has an intense orange to red bodycolour. Most opals are cut in cabochons while fine quality opals are usually cut in irregular forms, as the cutters choose to emphasize on the play-of-colour rather than the shape of the gem. These extravagant gems become centerpieces in beautiful custom made jewelry pieces, sold in the high end markets of the world. And if you’re born in October, well, you have another good reason to delight yourself with a beautiful opal!

In our next issue, discover our article about KATHERI NE JETTER, "The Queen of the Opals".

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Our faves

Jewellery gives you experience glamour, luxury, and elegance. With the right jewellery you can cherish the special memories and intimate luxury that a real piece of jewelry will bring to you on important days of your life. At the Jewellery Historian, every month, we handpick the finest jewelry for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. We are proud to present you our selection of amazing and unique jewellery, created by designers we love their work. A unique selection of jewellery, made by the Jewellery Historian, for you.

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ADLER

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MARTIN KATZ

MORPHÉE

AVAKIAN

ORLOV

JEWELLERY THEATRE

SHAWISH

Our faves

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BAYCO

ROBERT WAN

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LEYLA ABDOLLAHI

FABERGÉ

SUTRA

ADLER

SHAWISH JEWELLERY THEATRE

Our faves

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SHAWISH

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BAYCO

Our faves

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address book ADLER www.adler-joailliers.com AVAKIAN www.avakian.com BAYCO www.bayco.com ELEUTERIO www.eleuteriojewels.com FABERGÉ www.faberge.com FARAH KHAN Fine Jewellery www.farahkhan.net MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com MORPHEE JOAILLERIE morphee-joaillerie.com JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com LEYLA ABDOLLAHI www.leyla-abdollahi.com MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru ORLOV www.orlovjewelry.com SHAWISH www.shawish.ch SUTRA JEWELS sutrajewels.com VIVAAN www.vivaan.us JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com

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Cover : Bangle bracelet by Farah Khan Photo courtesy of Farah Khan Fine Jewellery

Photo courtesy of Matthew Campbell Laurenza

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Issue #05 will be available November 2014 156 Jewellery Historian

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