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6
HOT LINES
dam Ondra climbs the A hardest sport route in the world - again! Plus a major new trad mixed line goes up in Italy & Simon Richardson reports from Scotland
WHERE THE RIVER RUNS RED 12 David Pickford hangs with rednecks in Kentucky
BACK TO THE FUTURE 26 Paul Bennett goes back in climbing time to Buoux, the world’s most influential limestone crag
32 VERTICAL DIARY
THE VAN DIARIES 42
arah Jane Dobner gets S Underneath the Arches
Adrian Baxter recounts an epic nine month road trip from Mexico City to Buenos Aires, taking in some of the best rock climbing areas in Latin America
34 DISSENT ROUTE
Stephen Watt’s Secret Diary of a Gear Freak
INJURY AWARENESS FOR YOUNG CLIMBERS 52
36 THE CLIMB INTERVIEW
Lucia Prosino talks to Italian trad maestro Matteo Della Bordella about why he thinks British climbers are among the best in the world
In a special edition of our Treatment Room series, sports physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner explains the importance of correct training for climbers under 20
40 GEAR OF THE YEAR
eginning a new feature selecting our favourite B climbing products of the year, Tom Richardson looks at gear for ice climbing
50 MCCLURE: HOW FAR CAN WE GO?
Steve McClure takes the long view of the limits of our sport
54 MOUNTAIN WORLD
indsay Griffin reports on the tantalising Rimo Group in the Eastern L Karakoram, scene of some impressive ascents in the past but unvisited by climbers for over a decade now
58 GEARING UP: GIMME’ SHELTER
om Richardson dives into the wonderful world of tents for climbing T and mountaineering
66 THE CLIMB REVIEW
I an Parnell reads The Art of Ice Climbing, a major new book by Jerome Gras Blanc and Helen Mort reads Dennis Gray’s latest collection of climbing poetry, From The Edge
74 POSTCARD FROM THE EDGE
The American Dream as described by an Ohio license plate
Chouca (8a+) at sector Bout de Monde, Buoux, one of the most famous sport climbs on the planet. Turn to page 26 to find out more about the world’s most influential limestone cliff, and why you should go there the next time you visit the south of France. COVER: Tim Emmett dancing on the shadowline as he begins the precarious crux sequence of DAVID PICKFORD CONTENTS: Matteo Della Bordella high on the famous ‘Enduro Corner’ pitch (5.12b) the 26th pitch of
Turn to page 36 to find out more about Matteo and his high regard for British climbing. PIETRO BAGNARA
4
NORTHERN SOUL
Mike Hutton climbs the hidden classics of Yorkshire gritstone, one of England’s finest cragging areas
5
W W W. C L I M B M AG A Z I N E . C O M
J U LY
Freerider (5.13a, 850m) on Yosemite’s mighty Salathe Wall.
LEAD FEATURE:
2011
W W W. C L I M B M AG A Z I N E . C O M
J U LY
2011