Across the border—Zimbabwe
IT ' S A DOG'S LIFE
Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: Shaun Stanley
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Zambezi Escarpment across the river. And Nyamatusi Camp, a stunning, brand new camp, is where, between game drives and wild dog sightings, we relaxed in the lap of e sat, silently watching the luxury. It was on an afternoon drive from wild dogs...16 in total. They lay napping in Zambezi Expeditions that we’d had our first a shady depression, camouflaged by their wild dog encounter and when we moved mottled coats. The air was warm and still and the only sound to be heard was that of camp to Nyamatusi we would see the dogs distant birds. Aside from the occasional flick again the next morning. After what had clearly been a successful hunt they lay of a tail, the pack lay inert. We observed, transfixed, as the sun sank lower in the sky. resting, with blood-smeared faces and bloated tummies. One by one the dogs awoke, yawned and stretched. Getting to their feet, the pack The Zambezi River at Mana Pools is wide members exchanged elaborate greetings, whimpering as they sniffed, smelt and licked and dotted with islands. The silhouettes of one another. The dogs became livelier, and it elephants, buffalo, hippo and more are became apparent what the 20 or 30 hooded visible, wading in the shallows and feeding on the banks. Mana Pools is a 219,600vultures, lurking in the wings, had been hectare national park and wildlife waiting for. In preparation for their conservation and World Heritage area in evening’s hunt, the dogs voided their northern Zimbabwe, situated along the digestive systems. I watched, horrified, as the vultures squabbled over and made quick lower stretches of the Zambezi River. The river has, over time, gradually changed its work of these ‘deposits’. Having ‘lightened course, leaving behind river channels, their load’, the dogs pranced and played, ox-bow lakes and seasonal pools, making half-hearted, playful attempts to catch the still lingering vultures. There was surrounded by forests of winter thorn, a definite light-hearted atmosphere amongst mahogany, wild fig, ebony and baobab trees. Mana is the Shona (local language) word for the pack members as they gambolled ‘four’, and within the park the abandoned together, waiting for the last few deep sleepers to stir. Playtime over, it was time to river channels have created four large pools, giving the park its name. All this water get to work and the pack readied itself for provides an abundance of vegetation, the night’s hunt. A hyena appeared, attracting a wealth of game. In the dry previously hidden from sight, obviously intending to follow the dogs, hoping to cash season, the shady glades beneath the trees in on their hard work and score a free meal. are filled with concentrations of wildlife: herds of impala, eland, elephant, zebra, buffalo, waterbuck and kudu. These We had come to Mana Pools to stay with African Bush Camps and were lucky enough populations provide a plentiful supply of to see wild dogs from two of their camps— prey for both predators and scavengers. Zambezi Expeditions and Nyamatusi Camp. There are several sizeable prides of lion, as well as leopard and hyena. Mana Pools is a Zambezi Expeditions is perched on the stronghold for wild dog, sometimes called banks of the Zambezi, with the painted wolves, African painted dogs, or magnificent backdrop of Zambia and the Cape hunting dogs.
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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
Currently listed as endangered by the IUCN, with only 6,600 remaining in the wild, African wild dogs are one of the continent’s most captivating carnivores and one of its most endangered species. Once found all over Africa, their numbers have drastically declined over the last 100 years. Seen as pests by farmers and frequently blamed for livestock deaths (that are more often than not the work of lion or hyena) they are often poisoned, or catch distemper and rabies from domestic dogs. With vast home ranges, wild dogs are vulnerable to humans. Nowadays, populations are limited to pockets of wildlife sanctuaries and reserves. At Mana Pools the wild dogs live far from human habitation, so the risk to their survival is relatively limited. They thrive in the park and can regularly be seen hunting twice a day, generally in the early morning and late afternoon, when the weather is a little cooler. There are six main wild dog packs in the park, numbering around one hundred individuals. Three of these packs live on the flood plains and have become relatively accustomed to human visitors. Wild dogs are hugely successful hunters, having a success rate of around 80 per cent, which is remarkable considering lions only average around 30 per cent. Hunting in packs, numbering anywhere from five to 40, the adults combine to become an awesome killing machine, communicating constantly with bird-like chirrups and hoots. They are prodigious athletes, able to outrun almost any creature over long distances. Using stamina to overcome their prey, they can maintain an impressive 50 kilometres an hour for extended periods of time, occasionally reaching top speeds of 70 kilometres an hour and basically running their prey to exhaustion. Wild dogs’ ability to co-ordinate their moves, combined with
