ISSUE 15 - SEPT - DEC 2019

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA

& ZIMBABWE SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2019 | EDITION 15

ELEPHANT CHARGE 2019

LAKE TANGANYIKA The Second Largest Body Of Freshwater On The Planet

IT'S A DOG'S LIFE ...Mana Pools

GREAT ZIMBABWE

A Royal Stronghold

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2019

CONTENTS Features

The Art Of Slow Fashion 06 Camilla Rhodes

South Luangwa In The Rainy Season Fiona Bluck

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Wild Places Of Zambia John Coppinger

Highlights From Photo Safaris Edward Selfe

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Northern Zambia: The Hidden Jewel Craig Zytkow

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My Day At Great Zimbabwe Fiona Bluck

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Zambian Ground Handlers: Celebrating 10 Years 16 Leelee Ngwenya

The Art Of Conscious Living In Style Olia Danckwerts

The Fuchs Elephant Charge 2019 Sarah Davies

Wilderness Air 39 Nirvani Pillay

The Livingstone Museum Faith Shonga

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Hwange In The Green: When The Rain Reigns Flo Coughlan

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44

Chibembe Is Back!

Andrew Muswala

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No Laughing Matter Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson

What's In A Bargain?

Karen Beattie

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It's A Dog's Life 46 Sarah Kingdom

Advertisers’ Index IFC 01 02 03 05 09 15 17 19 22 23

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The Victoria Falls Hotel PressReader Fawlty Towers Garden Court Kitwe Africa Conservation Travel Bushtec Safari Ndole Bay Chibembe Wildlife Reserve People and Places Procharter Proflight

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

24 & 25 26 27 31 31 33 35 48 IBC BC

Chiawa Safaris SkyTrails Chibembe Wildlife Reserve The Bushcamp Company Tribal Textiles Kafunta Safaris Edward Selfe Photo Safaris The AdBox Zambia Africa Albida Tourism Zambian Ground Handlers

A WORD FROM THE MD

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine

Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala kwisanoent@gmail.com Sub-Editor Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson nicky.dj@sky.com Layout & Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com

Website www.zambiatravelmagazine.com

Welcome to the 15th edition of Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine.

This edition coincides with our fourth year anniversary. We hope that by raising awareness of the attractions of both Zambia and Zimbabwe, we can encourage more visitors to these very special countries.

Authentic in essence, Zambia and Zimbabwe are two of the best tourism destinations in Africa— if not the world. If these two spectacular countries are not on your bucket list already we strongly suggest that you include them, whether you are a bespoke or discerning traveller, or maybe someone who just wants to ‘get away from it all’.

We find out about Lake Tanganyika, the second largest body of freshwater on our planet, as Craig Zytkow explores this wonderful lake (p12). Flo Coughlan takes a good look at ‘Hwange…when the rain reigns’ (p40), to discover just what we are all missing.

Elsewhere in the magazine we explore destinations in Zambia that receive few visitors, whatever the season, such as West Lunga National Park and Lumangwe Falls (p10). Zimbabwe’s appeal is not just about its wild places; more often than not its rich heritage history doesn’t get a look in. However, Fiona Bluck opens a window on Great Zimbabwe page (p36) as she explores the remains of this royal stronghold.

You can visit the Livingstone Museum with Faith Shonga (p20), and learn about ‘The Art of Slow Fashion’ with Camilla Rhodes (p6). Also in this edition, we take a look at Elephant Charge 2019 (p18), talk to Simon Bicknell (p28), and enjoy bush photography lessons (p45).

And if you love wild dogs, ‘It’s a Dog’s Life...’ by Sarah Kingdom (p46) will tell you all about these fascinating animals in Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe.

HAPPY READING!

Introducing our new contributor Flo Coughlan is a safari operator based in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe.

As a fourth generation Zimbabwean, she takes pleasure in showcasing her country as a premier safari destination and putting together personalised itineraries in Mana Pools and Hwange National Parks.

Her passion is observing nature through personal experience or on safari, and this she shares regularly through her photography and blogs. Off season, she lives with her husband, Tim, in Harare.

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Contact her on flo@machabasafaris.com and follow her on @flocoughlan on Instagram and @flocoughlanphotography on Facebook.

Subscriptions kwisanoent@gmail.com +260 977 308 711

Contributors Fiona Bluck, Olia Danckwerts, Lesanne Photography, Flo Coughlan, Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson, Sarah Kingdom, Shaun Stanley, Nirvani Pillay, Wilderness Safaris, John Coppinger, Sarah Davies, Elephant Charge, Edward Selfe, Craig Zytkow, Ndole Bay Lodge, Faith Shonga, Livingstone Museum, Karen Beattie, Project Luangwa, Julie & Adam Bates, Shutter Speed Pictures, Camilla Rhodes, Tony Barnett, Eivind Andreas Hansen, Scott Ramsay, Remote Africa Safaris, Dr. Bruce Ellender, Leelee Ngwenya, Zambian Ground Handlers, Shelley Cox Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to kwisanoent@gmail.com for consideration.

Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia

Copyright Copyright © All rights for material appearing in this magazine belong to Travel & Leisure Zambia and/or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or without due acknowledgement.

On the cover

Fishermen at sunset on Lake Tanganyika Photo credit: Ndole Bay Lodge

CREATING A GREATER CONNECTION BETWEEN TOURISM, CONSERVATION AND COMMUNITIES

info@africaconservationtravel.com www.africaconservation.com +263 774 641622

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Photography: Tony Barnett

Writer: Camilla Rhodes Photography: Tony Barnett, Eivind Andreas Hansen

THE ART OF SLOW FASHION The Perfect Waste Of Time ivingstone has long been an iconic travel destination, combining breathtaking natural vistas with heart-warming people, to evoke the senses and lure visitors back time and again to enjoy the awe-inspiring sight of ‘smoke’ rising high above Victoria Falls, the haunting cry of the fish eagle and of course the smell of leather in the air. This is WAYAWAYA’s playground and the backdrop for the creation of a socially conscious range of luxury leather accessories.

WAYAWAYA translates as ‘the art of wasting time’ and is a luxury leather accessories company with a strong social mission. At its core WAYAWAYA embraces the art of ‘slow fashion’, creating meaningful fashion pieces that stand the test of time whilst connecting to a greater social awareness.

The vision behind WAYAWAYA is the brainchild of its founder, Iris Nikolaisen, who manages expertly to fuse together Norwegian and Zambian cultures which inspire the design and functionality of each bag. Women empowerment is the backbone of the company and WAYAWAYA’s focus is

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

This blending of styles is evident in the intricately braided straps that weave together the Sámi culture of woven embroidery with the Tonga culture of basket-making, or perhaps the intertwined petals within the signature WAYAWAYA print serving as a nod to the Nordic roses seen extensively in decorative folk art and the exotic Zambian flora as well as the bold traditional chitenge fabrics. Creating seamless overlap of these two starkly comparative cultures is no mean feat, but is achieved with harmony and style.

Investment in quality vocational skills development has been the driving force behind WAYAWAYA’s success. The tightknit team of women has undergone an extensive two years of training to get the

ladies where they are today and armed with these skills for life.

‘I feel very happy. Actually, I am very proud…the skill I have now, even my friends are admiring me because it is not easy to learn how to use the leather and to do the stitching. Before, we just saw some bags at the market and in the shops, but we did not have any idea how to make them.

But for now I am proud. Even when I see someone who is selling a handbag I am not left wondering. If I look at it very carefully I know I can make it my own. Yes.’ So says Angela, head leather artisan from the WAYAWAYA team.

This same sense of pride ripples out into every facet of the design process, but is most evident in the materials hand selected for each piece. From the signature fabric designs, the rich colour palette of leather hides, right down to the stitching and the thread used, every component is carefully curated to bring together the best in quality, value and locality. Everything is sourced close to home making your WAYAWAYA bag truly a product of Africa.

Opposite page. Photography: Eivind Andreas Hansen

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the investment in long-term development of artisanal leathercraft skills, culminating in meaningful job creation. Through expert tutelage by master craftsmen from Norway, South Africa and Zimbabwe, the team of women has been honed with the confidence and technical know-how to create products that consistently encompass WAYAWAYA’s signature look and feel.

WAYAWAYA IS PART OF THE SLOW FASHION MOVEMENT; WE CREATE FASHION CONSCIOUSLY. IT IS AN ART FORM, AN EXPRESSION AND A SOCIAL AWARENESS.

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And now WAYAWAYA is turning its attention to the world of tourism with a range of travel- and safari-friendly products currently in development. So, stay tuned for upcoming designs that meld the quintessential and classical with the contemporary and sleek. The safari collection aims to be multi-functional, scalable and adjustable. Products in the works are designed for the safari purists at heart, catering to everything you need for essential sundowners, travel documents and even camera gear, streamlining the designs and cutting out the unnecessary.

Want to see it for yourself?

The workshop is always open to visitors and offers you a behind-the-scenes look at this socially conscious brand; it’s a chance to meet the women of WAYAWAYA, hear their story and see the work and dedication that goes into each and every stitch. You can learn how each bag is handcrafted and the techniques that take it from an idea sketched on paper to a buffed and polished bag on display in the showroom.

As well as the opportunity to shop at the WAYAWAYA collection, you can also ‘mix and match’ to put your unique spin on a WAYAWAYA bag or even get hands-on with creating a piece for yourself. One thing is for sure…you won’t want to leave without carrying your very own piece of WAYAWAYA with you.

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Photography: Tony Barnett

You can reach us on: sebastian@wayawaya.no iris@wayawaya.no

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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A CANVAS AND TENT company

WILD PLACES OF

ZAMBIA

Writer: John Coppinger Photography: Scott Ramsay, Remote Africa Safaris, Dr. Bruce Ellender

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n February 1994, a small group of us sat on the banks of the Lubonga River in the North Luangwa National Park, pondering our ambitious plan—to paddle to the Luangwa-Zambezi confluence, a distance of almost 1,000 river kilometres down the Lubonga, Mwaleshi and Luangwa rivers. To our knowledge nobody had attempted this before. Our primary motivation was not to be the first to achieve this but merely to immerse ourselves in one of the most amazing wild places in Africa.

Zambia is blessed with many far-flung wild places and this, for me and many others, is what is so alluring about this country which encompasses over 750,000 square kilometres with a population of around 17 million—almost six times larger than England and with less than a third of the population.

After waiting for two days there was a big downpour which brought the Lubonga to life, providing sufficient water and a swift current allowing us to launch our Canadian canoes and paddle into the wilderness. Within an hour we reached the Mwaleshi River confluence where we immediately attracted the attention of several large crocodiles. One of them crashed its jaws into my canoe, and our expedition—not to mention my life—almost came to an abrupt halt. However, we had brought a fibreglass repair kit and by the next day were able to proceed on our way.

The entire length of the Mwaleshi proved to be something of a crocodile gauntlet but fortunately, once we reached the wide Luangwa River, the crocodiles left us in peace and we were able to relax and enjoy our surroundings. Almost the entire length of the Luangwa is undeveloped and inaccessible during the rains when nature reigns supreme. It is this very seasonality that protects the integrity and wild nature of the flood plain of the Valley and enabled us to enjoy and appreciate pure wilderness.

Such was the quality of this experience that I and my whole family repeated similar canoe expeditions over the following years.

Whilst the Valley may not be quite as wild and remote during the dry season, a visit at this time doesn’t require braving hungry crocodiles and is a very rewarding and special experience.

The North Luangwa National Park remains my favourite wild place in the country and is probably the best managed park in Zambia. There’s certainly nowhere else one can walk in the midst of rhinos!

In contrast, the Liuwa plains region in the far west of the country is another wonderful, albeit very different, wild place. Wide open plains are host to huge herds of wildebeest which form the second largest migration on the continent. Liuwa Plain National Park

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differs from most parks in that there are over 12,000 inhabitants living within the park. African Parks and the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) are jointly overseeing an ambitious and forward-thinking project whereby the wildlife and local communities co-exist and benefit from a shared landscape; it is a modern day success story.

The West Lunga National Park is another success story in the making. The Trident Foundation, in partnership with DNPW, WWF and local communities, is working to restore this once game-rich reserve. Bordered by the stunningly beautiful Kabompo and West Lunga rivers, this remote and forgotten park contains a unique and intact habitat. The mavunda (Cryptosepalum) forest provides sanctuary for the surviving wildlife, including some very special bird species. With good management now in place I have no doubt that given a little time the park will regain its former glory.

Further to the north, and beyond the well-known town of Mwinilunga, another little-known jewel exists—Nchila Reserve, just a stone’s throw from both the Democratic Republic of Congo and Angola. This reserve, containing some stunning equatorial forest, is owned and managed by the Fisher family, who have been there for several generations.

Zambia is blessed with an abundance of rivers and water bodies and there are many little known but spectacular waterfalls

dotted about the country. If it weren’t for the remote nature of the Lumangwe Falls on the Kalungwishi River in Luapula Province, it would undoubtedly be overrun with sightseers. The nearby Kabwelume Falls is equally impressive.

Wonder Gorge is a far more accessible attraction...yet still wonderfully wild. This is where two spectacular gorges, carved through the sedimentary rock in the Muchinga Escarpment, converge before dispersing into the Luano valley. Beware the tempting 300-metre descent into the gorges—it is possible to negotiate but is very steep and can be treacherous in places.

There are no defined paths...sliding down is relatively easy, whilst the hike out is strenuous. My personal experience involved having to carry my wife up and out!

These are just a few of my favourite wild places in the country. I have no doubt that there are many more wonderful spots tucked away in remote corners of the bush and I hope to continue exploring and seeking them out.

Forests and wilderness areas are receding globally and Zambia is no exception to this rule. The UN forecast that our population will increase threefold by 2050 and without careful management and protection many of our wonderful wild places could be endangered. Special care needs to be taken to ensure that these remote and irreplaceable gems continue to flourish.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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Northern

Zambia

The Hidden Jewel 12

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Writer: Craig Zytkow Photography: Ndole Bay Lodge

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urquoise and deep blue waters, white sandy beaches, a traditional way of life and cultural practices...sounds like a remote Pacific island, but this is Lake Tanganyika, the second largest body of freshwater on the planet and the hidden jewel in Zambia’s crown.

suited to the Grand Canyon than northern Zambia. If you are ever fortunate enough to be on the lake at night in June, then the spectacle of early burning across the top of the cliffs and the glow from hundreds of paraffin lights belonging to kapenta (resembles a sardine) fishermen on the waters below gives the illusion of some lost metropolitan cityscape.

Past the Lufubu is Nsumbu National Park, 2,000 square kilometres of pristine wilderness, 80 kilometres of lake shore, a mixture of plains, escarpment, miombo woodland, dense itigi thicket unique to the area and untouched beaches. The park went into The lake itself is over 50 kilometres wide, partnership with FZS (Frankfurt Zoological 650 kilometres long and 1,400 metres Society) two years ago and that expertise deep, with water temperatures fluctuating between 23°C–28˚C. Surrounded by tall Rift and experience from North Luangwa has already had a huge impact on the wildlife of Valley cliffs the area has its own tropical micro climate, perfect for winter sun in the Nsumbu. The aim eventually is to reintrosouthern hemisphere and keeping the area duce some key—previously indigenous— species back to the area including black more temperate—relative to the rest of rhino and lion which should help expand Zambia—in the summer.

Zambia’s safari circuit right up into the To the east of Zambia’s only port, Mpulungu, north. are pretty bays, large fishing communities The park is already fortunate to have a and several lodges offering the type of recovering elephant population that can be exclusivity only a remote location can. As viewed regularly swimming and you approach the Kalambo River and drinking along the shores of the lake, as Tanzanian border, the transition from well as diverse antelope species. Kala Bay Bemba to Swahili culture is overtly has become a favourite bay for wildlife to displayed by the local colour choices... spend late afternoons under the opportufrom housing façades and fishing dhows to nistic gaze of some of the largest crocodiles chitenges—a chitenge is a colourful piece in Southern Africa. of clothing, rather like a sarong, usually worn by women. If you visit the villages, the This far north, on a clear day, you can see merge in cultures becomes more apparent far up along the DRC coast and all the way with the mixture of dialects and the move across to Tanzania; combine this with a very from nshima (maize) to rice as the staple low footfall national park and you have a starch of choice—even the villages either side of the Kalambo estuary share the same unique experience that really gives perspective to the remoteness and name. untouched beauty of this part of Africa.

The Kalambo Falls is still too far north Below the surface of the lake are about 250 (along with the lake) to be included in the species of cichlid fish unique to normal tourism circuits, but fairly recent development along the top of the Rift Valley Tanganyika. To find them all, one would need to dive most of the lake at a variety from Mbala has made the falls much more of depths, but there are some resorts that accessible for the intrepid explorer. offer dive or snorkel excursions and even However, the more rewarding experience, for those fit enough, is to hike the steep Rift PADI level training that allow you to see some of the best. Freshwater scuba is new Valley up to the gorge overlooking the falls to a lot of even experienced divers with the from one of the lodges below. unexpected change in buoyancy, but once acclimatised it is an unforgettable experiThe western shoreline stretches further ence, highlighted by the year-round warmth north up to the DRC (Democratic of the water (even at depth), weak currents Republic of the Congo) border with only a few lodges of note on the way. Local ferries, and unique environment. Ndole Bay Lodge remains the only registered PADI resort in now upgraded, allow low cost travel on Zambia and conducts dive experiences for a daily basis (except weekends) as far as all levels of divers.

Nsumbu town, the last major Zambian settlement on the lake. These ferries have Angling is still the main attraction on the also become a vital supply line for the lake with large perch and tiger fish at the isolated communities along this side of the top of everyone’s list. Those lucky enough lake. will be catching fish from a boat drifting parallel to a secluded beach, with elephant Between Mpulungu and the Lufubu River mouth are some of the most stunning vistas basking in the waters nearby as the sun drops low and the waters flatten out to look on the lake of the Rift Valley; the towering like glass. cliff faces, stacks and gullies look more

The emperor cichlid, otherwise known as nkupi or yellowbelly (not to be confused with the bream further south), is a staple for anglers on the lake, a strong fighting fish on light tackle with a big hit. It just so happens also to be one of the best eating freshwater fish on the planet. For serious fish connoisseurs this is a ‘must try’, fresh out of the lake onto a charcoal braai (barbecue) with a splash of lemon.

Accessibility to this gorgeous part of Zambia depends on your budget. Charter flights can get you directly to Mbala or Nkamba airstrips near the lake where your lodge of choice can organise a meet and transfer.

Making a road trip of it allows one to deviate to some of the other northern gems, and for those on a budget, buses run daily from all the major towns and cities of Zambia. However you choose to get there, there is no doubt that the end destination is well worth the time and effort.

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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ZAMBIAN GRO U N d hANDLERS Celebrating 10 Years Writer: Leelee Ngwenya Photography: Zambian Ground Handlers

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hen you first meet the team members at Zambian Ground Handlers (ZGH) you are struck by their infectious love of Zambia and wildlife safari adventures. Coming up to the company’s 10th anniversary in the tourism sector, it is delightful to see that they haven’t lost their passion for tourism and making sure that they promote Zambia to the wider world as a leading tourist destination in Southern Africa.

Nick Aslin is the founder of Zambian Ground Handlers. He has been in the safari industry since 1992 when he came to Zambia from the UK and went on in the mid-1990s to run Norman Carr Safaris until he left them in 2009 and formed ZGH. The company’s initial intention was to change how tourism worked in Zambia. The company is an independent ground handler— otherwise known as a destination management company—booking and co-ordinating safari operations in Zambia. ‘Essentially we work with the travel trade all around the world booking and co-ordinating safaris through Zambia for their clients,’ Nick explains.

At the time of inception there were no real specialists in this arena.

‘In the early days, in order for an agent around the world to get someone to co-ordinate a Zambian itinerary, they would have to either go to a destination management company based in South Africa or go to a safari company such as Norman Carr Safaris who owned several camps,’ Nick elaborates. The problem with going to a safari company like Norman Carr was that it came with its own bias and challenges because a camp operator would fill their camps first before filling others.

ZGH began as a small operation with only two people: Nick and his colleague Maggie, who had previously worked under him at Norman Carr. They had a small office with two desks and it all began with one booking which turned into another and they grew from there. Today, 10 years on, they have grown into a team of six consultants under Nick and in 2019 expect to move about 1,500 people through Zambia.

By creating ZGH, Nick and his team have been able to build a uniquely unbiased safari model that accommodates the leading safari camps in Zambia. With his team, which has an accumulated staggering 100 years of combined industry experience working in various parts of the country with different safari camps, they have been able to play a part in changing the Zambian tourism industry.

‘Our experience, knowledge and more importantly independent advice to the trade as to which camps are best for their clients has been invaluable. More companies exist now that offer similar services, if you look back over the last 10 to fifteen years at how safaris were sold and the picture is very different now to what it was back then,’ the team tells me.

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Maggie Mwale, with 15 years’ experience in the industry, was the first to join Nick 10 years ago. ‘I have grown as a person and a consultant through my experiences in the job and my interactions with the camps and the people who visit them. I have been passionate about wildlife since childhood. I grew up in the Eastern Province and my mother would take us on game drives as children. Travel and wildlife are my passion and I am proud to have a job that allows me an international platform to speak about Zambia and share its beauty,’ she reveals enthusiastically.

For the travel consultants, their background having worked at various camps across Zambia plays a huge role in gaining insight into how to curate these travel experiences for clients. Often, clients have an idea of what they want out of a trip to Zambia, especially if they have lived here or visited before. However, there are also clients and agents who need the expertise and knowledge of the team to create bespoke packages for the greatest safari experience. Being Zambian and having the work experience in camps elevates the work undertaken

by ZGH. ‘Working with the international market excites us, building these curated experiences for people to come and discover Zambia is an extremely rewarding process. We work closely with all the camps and have built solid relationships with each of them. We have a strong emphasis to treat all the camps and their operators with the same level of professionalism,’ the team divulges.

With the business of ground handling growing to become more popular in Zambia, preserving their reputation has become important and that is where marketing comes in. The company has a website and recently began using social media accounts like Facebook, LinkedIn and Instagram which they utilise as tools to engage with the agents and camps. They have also found clients following them to find out more about Zambia and their Instagram is very client friendly, with campaigns such as Safari Sunday where they feature a different camp or aspect of safari each week, and Wildlife Wednesday in conjunction with The Bushcamp Company. They also run interactive Question and Answer campaigns such as Did You Know? where they give out wildlife facts and the website also offers FAQs and advice on what to pack during which season... and more.

This allows the camps to market themselves individually, and the agents as well as potential clients to see what Zambia has to offer in terms of safari tourism. Social media and the use of visuals have been proven to attract business and are effective marketing tools. All of these marketing tools, therefore, showcase how ZGH is a one-stop shop for Zambian tourism.

Travel is an integral part for the team members when it comes to selling packages and they have been fortunate to experience the camps with which they work. This has also given them an insight into how these camps run and how they might suit client needs and expectations. Speaking with the team members it is clear that one of the most gratifying parts of being a part of ZGH is seeing how their work with agents makes clients happy. Reading letters that say ‘We had the safari of a lifetime’ are the driving force behind what Zambian Ground Handlers are all about.

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Back row (left to right): William Banda, Gerald Niyrenda, Nick Aslin Front row (left to right): Dani Rose, Evie Bwalya, Maggie Mwale, Nosizi Mwase, Pepper

It's All In The Name

THE FUCHS ELEPHANT CHARGE 2019 Writer: Sarah Davies Photography: Elephant Charge

A

hose-down due to a caking of mud, dust and one year. You have to wonder if the universe sweat gained toiling around the course. is trying to tell you something.

Then there are those wordsmiths that make the literal connection with the overall lthough arguably not the most conservation goals of the Elephant Charge, for example, ‘The Carnivore’ and ‘The Biking vital, practical component of preparation, choosing your Elephant Charge team name Baboons’, although we think ‘The Crazy Penguins’ might be a bit confused often takes the most imaginative effort. geographically. This year we can’t wait Since 2008 when the 4WD motorsport event to smash the US$1 million mark of funds was first conceptualised, teams of up to six raised for conservation projects in Zambia men and women have bravely taken up the (US$892,000 so far), supporting awesome challenge of traversing the wilds of Zambia’s efforts such as Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia, Birdwatch, bush through 10 checkpoints…but not in the shortest time…No! That would be easy… Conservation Lower Zambezi, Conservation South Luangwa etc. (For more see www. instead, the shortest distance. Thus, this elephantcharge.org/beneficiaries). intrepid adventure indeed demands a title of both calibre and eloquence.

Finally, of course, there has been the prophetic nomenclature of ‘Rolling Under’ Many go with some humorous who gymnastically rolled their vehicle interpretation of the obvious; for example we’ve had ‘The Dirty ½ Dozen’ and ‘The Dirt before the first checkpoint of their first charge; and my own dear team ‘Hot Herders’. It’s a truth universally acknowClutch’—I’m never exactly sure if it’s rude ledged that by 3.00pm on Charge day all or not—who almost set fire to our gear box team members will be in need of a good

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The Fuchs Elephant Charge 2019 will be held on Saturday, 28th September, at a secret location approximately two hours outside Lusaka, and is aiming to have a full complement of 35 teams to help us continue to raise our fundraising record.

We are delighted to be supported by several major sponsors including Fuchs, Maxxis Tyres, National Milling, Gospel Central, CC Systems and Geotab, among many others.

This year we will have new teams…shush, but rumours abound of a ‘Victorious Secret’ (genius), sponsors and chargers.

Join the herd…to register, sponsor or find out more about coming along to a weekend of family fun, discover more at www.elephantcharge.org or contact info@elephantcharge.org. You can also ‘follow’ us on Facebook and Instagram.

People and Places is a Southern Africa based DMC specialising in Zambia, Zimbabwe and Malawi.

It is the people and places of Africa that we love and our team are dedicated to ensuring that all clients that travel with us have the optimal African experience.

We focus on efficiency, flexibility, generosity and consistency. We thrive on offering a very personal service.

emma@peopleandplacesconsult.com / www.peopleandplacesconsult.com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

19

Writer: Faith Shonga Photography: Livingstone Museum

T

he Livingstone Museum is the oldest and largest museum in Zambia, containing memorabilia relating to the country’s historical events and with artefacts documented graphically and in writing. It is easy to reach as it is located in the heart of the city of Livingstone, along the Mosi-oa-Tunya Road.

The museum houses different galleries covering archaeology, ethnography, ichthyology, natural history and entomology among other subjects, with artefacts and expositions delivering an insight into the national history and ethnic heritage of Zambia. The Livingstone Museum has maintained its colonial outlook and displays a vintage aircraft visible from the main highway, and the building exudes an attractive charm, enticing one to visit.

Upon entering, one is greeted by friendly staff. To help find your way around the area, you can consult a large in-built trail map of the city, which includes the Victoria Falls, and there is also an old map of Zambia drawn on the wall, so you can pinpoint your location. There is helpful information displayed beside each exhibit to explain what it is and its significance. As I walked through, I learnt how humans have developed through time, and the different tools that were used by early man for various purposes. It is interesting to note that some of the ancient tools exhibited in the human development exhibition hall were actually taken from a place called Dambwa in the city of Livingstone.

I was very glad to see the life-size re-creation of a typical village set-up, complete with relics that characterise village life. It was also interesting to view the depiction of animals, insects, reptiles, fish and birdlife that appeared so true to life. I was mesmerised by the depiction of the town, with the lovely Mirage House, E. Susman General Dealers Store, a taxi with a driver and a passenger, the policeman, school children and the general community, all going about their business.

I found the cultural and witchcraft section particularly fascinating, displaying articles which left a lasting impression. For example, I saw fabric made from bark cloth, traditional beads and ornaments worn by women for different reasons, roots used to increase sexual power in men and herbs used for healing and cleansing purposes. Here, too, were charms and wizardry items used to bring misfortune and even to kill, as well as tools to communicate with other wizards and witches, and others to protect oneself from harm. This section was spinetingling, not only for me but also for other people who were visiting at the same time.

It was truly fascinating to visit the Livingstone gallery and view original letters written by Dr. David Livingstone. I was intrigued to learn about his family tree and see original items that belonged to him, such as his coat, mirror and other personal possessions. It was wonderful to learn of the work that Dr Livingstone did and the loyal companions he had, such as Sussi and Chuma. I was also ecstatic when I saw a map of Zambia showing famous faces associated with the country, including freedom fighters, and to read about non-Zambians who have also visited, including Great Britain’s Queen Elizabeth 11 and former political leaders in the colonial era. It was absorbing to read articles and information about the slave trade era, pre- and postindependence articles and a description of today’s political scene.

Towards the end of the tour, I saw the motorbike that belonged to the first Zambian president, Dr Kenneth David Kaunda; I enjoyed reading about him and others who had fought for Zambia’s independence. To wrap it all up, I was glad to see how this rich blend of culture, history and modern day all come alive in this vintage-themed historical house.

You can visit the museum every day (except Christmas and New Year holidays). The opening times are 9.00am to 4.30pm. Charges for Zambian residents are K10 for adults and K5 for children, while international guests are charged US$5 for adults and US$3 for children.

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THE ALL-INCLUSIVE HISTORICAL HUB

THE LIVINGSTONE MUSEUM

Unsung Heroes

Unsung

Photography: Remote Africa Safaris

Heroes

C

arol Coppinger and her husband, John, have lived and worked in the north of South Luangwa National Park for 35 years.

In 1995 they created Tafika, a tourist camp north of Nsefu sector, and this became their home where they raised and home-schooled their two children. Living permanently in this remote area, which is seasonally cut off from the outside world, they inevitably became involved with the local community and the Tafika Fund was born.

During the rains of 1997 Carol met the headmaster of Mkasanga School and was horrified to learn that all the allocated teachers had abandoned their posts to avoid the isolation of the rains. The headmaster was left with an entire school of 250 children to teach single-handedly!

Together they hatched a plan to employ untrained teachers from within the community—people with at least Senior School Certificate who could assist the headmaster and who had no incentive to leave the area.

Being a government school it was important to work closely with, and in accordance with, the DEBS (District Education Board Secretary). Carol was anxious not to interfere with the running of the school but rather to facilitate and assist the school and generally promote education within the local community.

Mkasanga Primary School teaches up to Grade 9. Pupils wishing to complete their Senior School Certificate are compelled to travel away from home and enrol in a school which offers classes up to Grade 12.

Having put in place a team of untrained teachers and arranged regular stationery packs for the school’s pupils, Carol then turned her attention to selecting the most promising pupils and sending them to secondary school. The next step was to select the best students for further studies: skills training, teacher training colleges, universities etc. She has now worked tirelessly in the Mwanya community for over 20 years. Through her programmes, over 110 pupils have completed their Senior School Certificate and just fewer than 70 have successfully completed university degrees or skills training. Amongst these are at least one doctor and an accredited accountant. Barely a day passes when at least one of her students calls her with a problem or seeking advice.

Latterly, Carol has run a football league—Football for Wildlife— involving 16 teams (eight men’s teams and eight women’s teams) between Mwanya and Chifunda, bringing much joy to the community as well as providing a platform for raising awareness for conservation. Women’s soccer is rather a revolutionary concept in Zambia but one which has been eagerly welcomed by the village ladies from the two chiefdoms in which we operate, and they certainly display impressive skills. The preparation and management of this event requires a massive effort and far exceeds the six weeks of game time.

Apart from the significant financial input, Carol puts in countless numbers of hours and energy into these pursuits purely out of her own goodwill and continues to offer opportunities to those in need from the surrounding community.

If anybody would like to support the project or find out more information they can contact us on reservations@remoteafrica.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

21

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South Luangwa

CHIBEMBE IS

BACK!

Andrew Muswala talks to Simon Bicknell and Henry Hallward, owners of Chibembe Wildlife Reserve, about the newly opened Chibembe Bush Camp and the re-birth of the traditional Chibembe walking safari experience in the South Luangwa National Park.

Kindly give us a brief background to the history of Chibembe Chibembe was first operated as a hunting camp as far back as the early 1950s before the South Luangwa National Park was gazetted a protected wildlife reserve in 1972. On his retirement from the Zambia National Parks and Wildlife Service in 1974, Norman Carr set up a small walking trails ‘bush camp’ on Chibembe Island to try out his ‘new’ safari concept where guests shot wildlife with their cameras, rather than rifles.

‘Photo tourism’ proved popular and Carr obtained a lease for his tourism company, Wilderness Trails Limited, to build Chibembe Lodge. Establishing a circuit of walking trails bush camps in the South Luangwa National Park, along the Luangwa and Mupamadzi Rivers, Chibembe Lodge became very popular helping to promote Norman’s vision of photo tourism. Aimed at the family market, Chibembe was hugely popular with all who visited and experienced the magical ‘Chibembe walking area’ in the north-east corner of the South Luangwa National Park.

In 1996, following a brief period operating under the management of MRI, owners of the UK tour operator Hayes & Jarvis, Chibembe was sold to the current shareholders. Leasing to a new safari company did not turn out well and for some years Chibembe was unoccupied. In May 2017, Simon and Henry became directors of Wilderness Trails and started the process of reviving Chibembe.

With generous support from the Wilderness Trails chairman, David Dutton, an enormous amount of site clearing and track building took place, followed in 2018 by renovation works.

2019 sees the re-launch of Chibembe as the home of the traditional Norman Carr-style walking trails safari experience in the Luangwa Valley. The Chibembe walking area covers thousands of acres in the South Luangwa National Park and Chibembe Wildlife Reserve.

All walking safaris are conducted by a qualified, experienced and knowledgeable guide, backed up by an armed game scout.

Chibembe Bush Camp comprises four tents under thatch with en suite bush showers and flush loos, providing double and twin sleeping arrangements. Set on the banks of the Luangwa River, whilst it is not a luxurious safari experience, Chibembe Bush Camp provides amazing views into the South Luangwa National Park.

Ice-cold drinks, wholesome bush cooking, hot bush showers and

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flush loos meet most people’s needs on safari. The only sounds are the calls of the wildlife and grunts of resident hippos.

Unlike a safari lodge, where the main game-viewing activities are vehicle-based, Chibembe provides walking trails safari experiences pioneered by Norman Carr in the original operating area. Exploring the wilderness on foot, away from vehicles, is increasingly difficult in many parts of Zambia; Chibembe is a rare gem in an increasingly cluttered wilderness.

An added bonus is that all Chibembe safari experiences, ex Mfuwe, include at least one half-day game drive in the Nsefu sector of the South Luangwa National Park en route into, or back from, Chibembe. Little visited, this part of the park, gazetted in 1966 as a game reserve before the national park had been created, is a fantastic entrée to Chibembe—its lagoons and springs attract huge herds of buffalo and incredible flocks of egrets as well as wild dog, wildebeest, elephants, giraffes, lions and leopards, along with their main prey, puku and impala.

When asked how he became involved in Chibembe, Simon recounts meeting Cindy Buxton, a wildlife film-maker who had filmed at Chibembe, shortly before he set off on a six-month overland safari through Africa in 1984. Cindy suggested he went to Chibembe. When he arrived at Chibembe, shortly after Norman had moved to Kapani, there was an opportunity to become a guide working with safari legends John Coppinger and Vic Gurs, among others. 35 years later he is still involved with Chibembe!

Henry became involved in October, 1995, whilst looking for new areas to expand Tongabezi Expeditions, his joint-venture mobile safari business with Tongabezi Lodge. On a recce to North Luangwa National Park he drove into Chibembe. Spending three days there he arranged a meeting with Simon in Lusaka and within a few months the Tongabezi Expeditions partners bought Chibembe.

Can you tell me what inspired the creation of Chibembe Bush Camp?

‘My vision was to cut out the unnecessary luxuries that distract from the purity of the wilderness experience and reinstate the safari experience I discovered 35 years ago when I first arrived at Chibembe,’ Simon explains. ‘There is a place for air-conditioning, vehicle and generator noise, but not at Chibembe.’

Simon continues, ‘blessed with one of the best walking safari areas in the Luangwa Valley, I wanted the total focus to be on the walking trails safari experience. There is an intimacy with the bush, the wildlife and the flora with which one can only truly connect when there are no distractions whilst on a walking safari.

Exploring the bush on foot in a leisurely way and spending time enjoying the wildlife and landscape can only be done on foot, immersed amongst the wilderness and wildlife.’

South Luangwa

Henry now runs a safari-specialist marketing company and explains some of the subtle changes that they’ve made at Chibembe. ‘Since the 1970s, client expectations have changed and the decision was to start with a walking trails camp based on the original Norman Carr formula, but with some comforts like a closed tent under thatch, en suite loo, shower, and solar lights.

The impact on the wilderness is very low and can easily be reversed. The unique offering at Chibembe is the privacy and solitude as the bush camp is booked on an exclusive basis from four to eight people.’

What sort of products are you offering at Chibembe Wildlife Reserve?

‘The charming, simple and traditional tented safari camp is the gateway to one of the finest walking safari areas in the South Luangwa National Park, a stepping stone away from Chibembe Island with its diverse woodland and grassland ecology,’ Simon points out with his safari guide’s eye. ‘A gentle morning’s walk will take you through ebony groves with water courses running through and open munga woodland (‘munga’ means thorn) as well as evergreen riverine forest. A healthy variety of wildlife is found in this peaceful landscape with dramatic visuals of the new Luangwa River course meandering around the perimeter.’ He ends with his signature expression when on safari, ‘Magic!’

How unique is your product compared with the rest in the South Luangwa?

‘Chibembe sits in its own 850-acre private wildlife reserve sharing a three-kilometre unfenced boundary with the South Luangwa National Park, making it unique in the Luangwa Valley,’ Henry explains. ‘With no uninvited vehicles driving around, and nobody other than the Chibembe clients, the safari experience is an intimate engagement with nature unlike any other in the South Luangwa.’

What is your target market?

‘Norman Carr built a great product at Chibembe offering families the opportunity to experience the wilderness together.

The ‘friends and family’ market is most suited to the Chibembe

safari experience, creating memories across the generations that will last a lifetime,’ Henry continues. ‘There are many safari lodges and camps that cater for honeymooners and couples but we are able to offer a very private, intimate tented bush camp safari experience for small groups of friends, or family and friends, from four to eight people.’

How do you think the business will evolve in the future?

Simon responds, ‘The vision for Chibembe is to re-create a family-focused wildlife destination in the Luangwa Valley for the underserved friends and family market. In addition to three walking trails bush camps, we will be developing five private tented camps set in their own five-acre plots with 120 metres of Luangwa River frontage. Owned by private investors, who will offer their private camps to clients when they aren’t in use by the owners, their camps will sleep up to eight guests and include a plunge pool, kitchen/dining area and an independent solarpowered installation,’ going on to say, ‘enquiries for the plots can be found at www.chibembe.com’ What do you think will be the key to Chibembe’s success?

‘Partnering with our fellow safari lodge and safari operators in the Luangwa Valley, providing them with an exclusive walking safari extension to their safari lodges and camps has been very well received,’ explains Simon. ‘We are able to offer a traditional walking trails safari extension to any safari lodge in the Luangwa Valley providing clients with the variety of two types of safari in different areas of the South Luangwa National Park. Details of all of the Chibembe safari experiences with all of our partners are at www.chibembe.com’ Lastly, what are your final remarks?

‘Our stakeholders, the Mwanya community and our lodge partners have been supportive in getting Chibembe operational and back on the map again. Set away from the busy Mfuwe hub it offers true wilderness lovers an opportunity to explore a remote area of the national park in solitude. For the five Chibembe private camp owners, it’s a unique opportunity to have a home opposite what is recognised as the finest national park in Africa,’ concludes Simon.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

29

South Luangwa

What's In A

T

he souks of Marrakech create a heady atmosphere: narrow alleys full of traditional crafts; the beautiful Berber carpets displayed both inside and outside the shops; the bright ‘just-dyed’ fabrics hanging across the alleyways to dry; the smell of the spices heaped up on the stalls; the men in warm djellabas touting for trade—it all adds up to become a shopper’s dream with sensory overload. Everyone tells you you’ll be overcharged in the souk—just like in every country throughout Africa—but I thought I was different and was determined to get a bargain...no one was going to get the better of me!

In one shop I picked out a couple of hand-woven, tufted and embroidered Berber rugs from among the many thrown down at my feet. I loved them both...I really only wanted one...but the starting price was US$1,000 each. I sat patiently saying they were too expensive and I couldn’t afford to pay that much. I drank cup after cup of wonderful, very sweet mint tea, and four hours—yes, four hours— later, I was the proud owner of both carpets, having parted with just US$180. And for many years I was proud of my bargaining prowess and would tell the story to anyone who would listen. But now I’m not so sure...

Working with artisans in Mfuwe, Zambia, has shown me a different side. Let’s look at basketry or woodcarving, or anything else made by hand. If it takes an artisan two days to make something, and assuming that he/she has made a good quality, well-designed piece, surely he/she deserves at least two days’ pay—plus the cost of materials? And, even if the

'I was proud of my bargaining prowess...but now I'm not so sure...' materials are freely available in the bush, it still takes time to collect and prepare them. Materials such as sand creeper (a cane-like material for weaving) must be found, dug up, boiled, stripped and then polished before a weaver can start making a basket.

Writer: Karen Beattie Photography: Project Luangwa

Bargain?

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It is true that often there is a muzungu (white person’s) price but the secret is to know when it is being applied to excess.

Many of us have at least some disposable income; we don’t struggle each day to provide our family with a good meal or have to choose which of our children attends school because we can only afford one lot of fees. The guy you are bargaining with may be facing such decisions and the few dollars you save could make a big difference to his family...but, on the other hand, no one likes to feel that they have been fleeced. We are all quick to criticise the clothing companies who buy from Asian ‘sweat shops’...but we all want a bargain.

So what is fair when buying from an artisan? If you are buying direct from the craftsman try and find out about local wages for a skilled worker before going shopping. Ask how long it took to make the item. Look to see if it is well made or hastily thrown together using little skill or care. Then, if you want it, pay a fair price. Isn’t it all about a fair wage for a fair job?

PHOTO COURTESY: ISAK PRETORIUS

www.bushcampcompany.com

www.mfuwelodge.com

info@bushcampcompany.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

31

South Luangwa

I

began my Zambia safari as the only passenger in a small Cessna, piloted by Philip. I’d chosen South Luangwa National Park for my three-day visit, and we flew into Mfuwe airport just as the rain started.

Philip parked as near the terminal entrance as he could and I ran in. He followed with my bag; but where was someone to meet us? However, there was a truck outside bearing the logo of the lodge where I was to stay and we surprised the driver who had not heard the little ‘plane arrive. An hour later I was at friendly and welcoming Nkwali Camp, operated by Robin Pope Safaris.

Nkwali is situated on private land on a bend in the river, just outside the national park. My room overlooked the Luangwa River and in front, on the muddy riverbank, I saw Humphrey the resident hippo’s sizeable footprints. At night a canvas wall is pulled across for safety reasons and I was told that having food in my room was inadvisable. After dark I must not venture out alone, and as soon as I opened my door a guard with a torch would materialise to escort me to the main area for drinks and meals, often bearing an umbrella as this was the rainy season.

One day a troupe of baboons raided my room, leaving muddy footprints on the bed, throwing all the papers around on the desk and scattering my toiletries all over the bathroom. There was a trail of intimate items in the garden and they kindly left me an unwelcome present on the shower floor. They’d obviously had a wonderful party...and I had not left any food in the room!

I went out on safari early each morning and then again in the evening, guided by John, who was wonderfully knowledgeable and interesting. I was truly overwhelmed by the amount of game we saw in the park: lion, leopard, wild dog, genet, zebra, giraffe, elephant and many species of antelope, plus numerous birds. The camp was superb and I was looked after so well, with close attention to detail as well as excellent food.

We came across a zebra kill one evening, near an escarpment popular for watching sunsets with snacks and sundowners. A pride of five lionesses lay panting, exhausted and full, amongst a grove of small trees. One female was still gnawing at the carcass but there was not much flesh left and vultures were squabbling nearby waiting for her to back off. We had planned a sundowner but saw a massive black cloud moving towards us and the storm’s preceding wind was blowing hard and spots of rain began to fall. There were two courses of action: to seek shelter at a nearby lodge or make a dash for it back to our camp; John chose the latter. Our jeep only had a roof—no sides—so we put on ponchos as the wind increased and the rain lashed down. We hurtled back as fast as possible...a real Ferrari safari!

SOUTH LUANGWA IN THE

RAINY SEASON

Wild dogs...and I was thrilled to see a pack of 17. At first they were fast asleep, their chests gently rising and falling. However later on we saw them in full flight, racing across the grass to a lagoon thick with vegetation but we could not follow as it was too wet. We also came across an enormous herd of Cape buffalo, and they passed in front of us in a great long line, their bodies glistening with rain over rippling muscles. We saw leopard on two occasions and I decided that the rainy season is a fantastic time to visit. The air is clear, there’s no dust and the grass is bright emerald green. The trees are lush with leaves, and the jasmine shrubs, covered in tiny white blossoms, smelt heavenly.

During my stay a male lion had been heard roaring every night. On our last evening we found him stretched across the track after having eaten his fill of a buffalo. A large lioness was with him but she soon disappeared into the bushes; apparently she had two tiny cubs. After a while the lion rose majestically to his feet, marked his territory and then roared loudly...twice.

This park boasts certain animals that don’t, or rarely, occur elsewhere and I was lucky to see some of these: Thornicroft’s giraffe, Crawshay’s zebra, puku (a species of antelope) and white-tailed mongoose. I was overjoyed I’d chosen South Luangwa for my safari in Zambia; it is such a special park.

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Writer: Fiona Bluck Photography: Edward Selfe

South Luangwa

Kafunta River Lodge

Three Rivers Camp

Island Bush Camp

The very best South Luangwa has to offer bookings@luangwa.com www.luangwa.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

33

H

s t h g ighli FROM PHOTO SAFARIS WITH EDWARD SELFE

In this series, we publish extracts from trip reports of photo safaris led by Edward Selfe in the South Luangwa. The full reports, with many more photos, can be found at www.edwardselfephotosafaris.com

The following is taken from the middle of a long report of a 10-night trip in South Luangwa in June 2019, while guiding a group of four photographers from the incredible Lion Camp.

E

arly on in the morning drive, I picked up the smell of lion droppings which I thought I had driven over with one of the wheels. After confirming this—with an inspection of the tyre!—I was on high alert and soon after we found one of the ‘Nomads’, a group of four young, but big, male lions who took up residence in the Lion Camp area last year.

They were very aggressive in 2018, challenging the females on kills and causing a lot of injuries, but they seem to have settled with the Hollywood Pride during the rainy season.

We followed the young male as he met with one of his three coalition partners and they sniffed the air repeatedly. Eventually they led us to a lagoon where there was a dead hippo floating in the shallows. They appeared very interested in this free meal, but made no attempt to enter the water, perhaps because there were many crocodiles waiting to feed.

We were really excited that this might turn into a ‘story’ which we could follow over the coming days.

In the dry season, hippos die regularly from injuries caused by social compression in diminishing water habitat, or nutritional compression from lack of forage. Those that die are a huge food source that can sustain an array of scavengers for days on end. Strangely, the young males moved on without attempting to feed—perhaps they knew that the carcass was still complete and they would not be able to break it open—and we stayed to photograph the waterbirds in the shallows of the lagoon.

We now had to guess when the hippo carcass would decompose sufficiently to allow the crocodiles and other scavengers to access it. The period immediately after the carcass opens up is when there will be the most competition between predators, and the time when a possibility of interaction between them is highest. We were fortunate this moment came during an afternoon safari when we were able to witness it!

We arrived on the scene to find an old lioness resting near the carcass. She had picked up the smell and approached, hopeful of a free meal. But she was not confident of her ability to break open the carcass and fight off the crocodiles…so she waited. While we watched, baboon barks advised us of the arrival of another lioness (a prime female from the Hollywood Pride who has cubs nearby). The new arrival observed the situation for a while

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and then started to approach the carcass.

We wondered if she would dare to challenge the crocodiles which were starting to nibble at the eye sockets, ears and mouth of the hippo.

Initially, she lay on the bank and watched; but as the crocodiles accumulated around the carcass she moved cautiously through the mud, entered the lagoon and waded through the murky water. She was met with aggression from the largest crocodiles which did not want to share their meal, but each time they approached she snarled and swiped her massive paws and they retreated. In the end she prevailed, feeding from one side of the carcass while the crocodiles fed from the other side! We watched as she filled her stomach with the putrid meat, happy to know that this meal would support her milk supply for the hungry cubs. After she had eaten her fill, she retreated to the bank and the crocodiles moved in on all sides, ‘rolling’ to rip chunks of meat off the carcass.

We hoped that there would be more action at the hippo carcass in the morning, so we headed there early to see if the rest of the Hollywood Pride (or perhaps hyenas) had moved in to feed. Initially there seemed to be little change, but I heard nearby squirrels calling in alarm so I searched through an area of thickets and we found a huge male lion approaching the lagoon. He had also presumably picked up the smell of the hippo and had come to take his share.

He must be one of the best-looking lions in the Luangwa so we were thrilled to see him on our last morning.

He was tentative in his approach, undoubtedly aware that he was crossing into the territory of the four young males, but he quickly rounded the lagoon and started to feed. At first, the two lionesses made way for him. However, after he had fed for a while, one of the females greeted him and they rested next to each other on the bank. Such a fantastic lion should certainly hold a pride of his own, but it’s hard to see how he might overcome the strength and numbers of the coalition of the four ‘Nomads’.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

35

Across the border—Zimbabwe

MY DAY AT GREAT

ZIMBABWE

Writer: Fiona Bluck Photography: Fiona Bluck

Z

imbabwe...at last! For nearly 20 years I had wanted to visit this country but the political situation had always deterred me. And top of my list were the ruins at Great Zimbabwe. Finally, in January 2019, the opportunity arrived.

I was staying at beautiful Amalinda Lodge in the Matobo Hills south of Bulawayo and Howard Milzane, the resident historian and naturalist there, agreed to guide me in the ‘Zim Ruins’, a road journey of four-anda-half hours. I was up bright and early at 4.00am and off we set for the site, situated near Masvingo (Fort Victoria before independence).

Great Zimbabwe is what remains of a royal stronghold built by the Shona people—more of a palace complex than a city, constructed to impress rather than for defence purposes—a personal chiefdom, covering a vast area of almost 80 hectares. Construction work began in the 11th century AD and continued until the 15th century AD when the settlement was largely abandoned. However, archaeologists have established that the area was first settled in the 4th century AD by the Gokomere, an Iron Age Bantu people, ancestors of the modern Shona. As a keen amateur archaeologist and having worked on various digs, this history was of particular interest. I had seen pictures and read descriptions but none did this site justice: it was overwhelmingly more impressive than I’d expected.

The stone ruins at Great Zimbabwe are among the largest and oldest in Southern Africa, fashioned from well-cut brick-size granite blocks built as dry stone walls with no mortar. The site is surrounded by hills and consists of three main structures: the Hill Complex (the oldest), the Valley Complex and the Great Enclosure. The area was investigated first by Europeans in 1871 and many theories and interpretations have been argued about the origins of these magnificent edifices.

I felt uncomfortable that Europeans had felt that the indigenous African people had not been capable of building these superb structures in stone.

It’s a steep climb up to the Hill Complex, but well worth the effort. This is the spiritual heart of Great Zimbabwe—an area of gigantic boulders—with a view to the Valley Ruins and the Great Enclosure way below. Howard and I sat in a cave and he told me that a shaman would sit here and the chief would come to him frequently to ask for advice or to foretell the future. It is thought that it was in a

Across the border—Zimbabwe

Sadly, with only a day at the ruins and a long drive there and back, I did not have a chance to visit the Valley Complex, which Howard told me is divided into the Upper and Lower Valley. It is thought that from 10,000 to 18,000 people would have lived in the surrounding countryside during the city’s heyday, where farming, particularly cattle, would have provided their main source of livelihood.

In the four hours that Howard and I spent wandering around the ruins and visiting the museum, I enjoyed benefiting from his knowledge of the history, wildlife and plants of this memorable site. I marvelled at, and was moved by, the skill of the builders who, block by backbreaking block, created these monumental mega structures. I was overawed that the wondrous walls have survived for so long, even though vegetation has damaged some of the stonework.

Great Zimbabwe is outstanding and certainly deserves its name.

Opposite: Steps leading up to the main entrance to the ruins of the Hill Complex Right: This human figure puts into perspective the immense size of the exterior walls of the Great Enclosure Inset: Inside the walls of the Hill Complex

Below the Hill Complex is the most impressive and best known architectural group, the Great Enclosure, with its huge conical tower measuring 9 metres (30 feet) in height and 5.5 metres (18 feet) in diameter.

This was thought to contain treasure but after investigation was found to be solid. The outer and inner walls are truly immense, and the inner wall creates a passageway that felt cool as we walked around. There would have been houses within this enclosure— the largest occupied by the principal wife of the king and her retinue. It was the duty of the principal wife to instruct the other wives and daughters in female etiquette and behaviour.

Lesser ranking wives would have lived nearby, but in smaller enclosures.

Howard stands by the conical tower inside the Great Enclosure

section of the Hill Complex, known as the Eastern Enclosure, that eight Zimbabwean soapstone birds were found, carved on the tops of monoliths each the height of a human being, and they can be seen in the museum below.

It is conjectured that these could represent bateleur eagles, which are a good omen and serve as protective spirits and messengers of the Shona gods.

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Across the border—Zimbabwe

THE ART OF CONSCIOUS LIVING IN STYLE Writer: Olia Danckwerts Photography: Lesanne Photography

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e’ve heard it all—that climate change is real, that plastic is bad and that the planet is in danger and the ice is melting. So you decide to be environmentally conscious and become an ecofriendly traveller—you find out the ways to minimise your carbon footprint, you check into an eco-friendly resort, you choose the companies that utilise the best environmental practices and make sure the straws from which you sip your well deserved cocktails on holiday are made of paper.

But now, what about the clothes that you wear—are they harming our planet? The fashion industry’s carbon footprint is no joke: according to the United Nations, its ‘long supply chains and energy intensive production’ contribute to 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions and consume more energy than the shipping and airline industries combined. But, thankfully for Mother Nature and eco-conscious fashion enthusiasts, more and more slow, sustainable fashion brands are popping up, proving that you don’t have to sacrifice style for the sake of the planet. Slow fashion is all about quality over quantity. The most sustainable way to shop is to build your wardrobe with timeless investment pieces you’ll wear forever, rather than impulsively buying trendy pieces that are out of style (or disintegrate) before you wear them twice.

Another way to minimise the impact on the planet’s health is to choose vintage clothing. And vintage, the true kind it seems, is increasingly in vogue across the board—from Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, who wore 1960s Dior to a christening, to its appearance in British Vogue that asks, ‘Does your dress look vintage?’ Aside from an increased awareness of sustainability, vintage fashion fits neatly

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into the wider mood of the Instagram age, where authenticity and originality—not being seen in the same outfit as anyone else—are highly prized. What better way to stand out than to wear clothes few others are likely to own?

If you are reading this article, chances are you are already on your journey in Africa. If that’s’ the case, we have good news for you!

Exciting things are happening in Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe, which could be the start of your journey in becoming a conscious living adept. You should plan to spend a morning in the heart of Victoria Falls at Elephant’s Walk Shopping and Art Centre (Artists and Shopping Village), where you can find the best coffee spot in town—Dean’s—hello, paper straws! Also, cool local designers and brands are united under one roof such as Ndoro.co, purveyors of contemporary African design, stocking natural lifestyle products sustainably harvested from the wild; and useful products handmade by various community projects.

The space at the recently opened concept store The Honeyguide is filled with antique furniture and rare pieces from Zambesia Books and Collectibles, carefully hand-picked vintage dresses and contemporary ethical wear—look for the Bohemian quirky pieces from the newly launched locally produced brand Kukuju—and the most beautiful hats from the neighbouring Zambian brand Wood & Feathers, as well as coffee-table and classic books…and there are plants too. Inspired by the nature and history of Victoria Falls, The Honeyguide references a time when the young Queen Elizabeth came to visit in 1947, an inspiring capsule that captures that intangible yearning of a dream of Africa, as known and seen in old movies and books…and all with the culture of care for our planet in mind.

www.thehoneyguide.org

Writer: Nirvani Pillay Photography: Wilderness Safaris

Across the border—Zimbabwe

F

rom the air, Africa takes on different hues and shapes. Beneath lie broad brown rivers, gold savannah and deep green rainforests. Elephant are grey ovals, brownblack giraffe peek out of trees, and if you’re lucky, you’ll see a rare sitatunga as it moves through the reeds.

Wilderness Air is the proud air partner of Wilderness Safaris, Africa’s leading authentic and sustainable ecotourism company with private access to some of the continent’s finest wilderness and wildlife areas. Its purpose is to offer passengers safe and reliable air connections to, from and between many remote wilderness destinations across Southern Africa, including Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, moving an average of over 80,000 passengers a year.

Since Wilderness Air began operating in Botswana in 1991, with just one aircraft servicing two camps in the Okavango Delta, the company has grown immensely.

Today, Wilderness Air has regional offices based in Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, operating over 35 aircraft and employing over 50 pilots, thus providing easy access across the region.

Wilderness Air operates a varied fleet of light aircraft, chosen for their ability to transport visitors comfortably to remote wilderness destinations with dirt airstrips across Southern Africa. Each aircraft type has been selected based on its ability to transport different numbers of passengers over different ranges and its fleet operates on a daily circuit within the regions. Throughout its time it has maintained its excellent reputation for safety and guest service.

According to Wilderness Air’s general manager for the Zambezi region, Tawanda Maruza, ‘Wilderness Air is proud to have driven aviation excellence in Southern Africa for over 28 years. We remain committed to Wilderness Safaris’ vision and sustainability values, actively seeking to reduce our carbon footprint through the development of a more efficient daily circuit; to optimise each aircraft’s movements while connecting guests to the wilderness safely and efficiently. In Zimbabwe, for example, we operate a daily flying circuit to Wilderness Safaris’ camps and a few select partner lodges.’

Meanwhile, Wilderness Air flights in Zambia are operated by its key alliance operator, Staravia. This family-run business has been in operation for over 30 years and has built up an enviable reputation for professional, personal and friendly service. Whilst Wilderness Air does not operate the aircraft, Wilderness Air Zambia is still involved in the day-to-day flying operations of Wilderness guests and all Staravia operations adhere to Wilderness Air’s safety and environmental rules.

Wilderness Air aims to provide a safe, compliant, efficient and reliable service to passengers. ‘We believe that flying is an integral part of each guest’s travel experience, offering a very different way of seeing and appreciating Africa’s scenery and wildlife, while our pilots’ passion and professionalism can make a genuine contribution to the journey,’ concludes Tawanda.

The service offered by Wilderness Air is more than a simple connection. Visit www.wilderness-air.com for more information.

WILDERNESS AIR CONNECTING YOU TO THE WILDERNESS SINCE 1991

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Across the border—Zimbabwe

HWANGE IN THE GREEN

when the rain reigns

Writer: Flo Coughlan Photography: Flo Coughlan

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ike Picasso, nature matches its colours to its moods. When it comes to national parks, Mana Pools is famous for its hazy October blues, Gonarezhou for its geographical layers of brown and Hwange for the scale and depth of its greens during the wet.

If you mention to anyone that you’re going on safari between November and March— the green season—they look at you with dismay and alarm. They ask, ‘Has nobody told you that peak safari season is from May to October?’ And they question, ‘Do you know that you won’t see a thing? And that it may rain?’

Well, truth be told, part of the last statement is valid, but as anyone who has experienced a Zimbabwean thunderstorm knows, it never lasts long, it’s a spectacular show, and there will definitely be plenty to see...especially if you look beyond the obvious.

It’s certainly a privilege to be out in the bush in general, or Hwange in particular, when the first rains come. The vastness of Hwange National Park—14,651 square kilometres (5,657 square miles)—affords a multitude of locations and vantage points from which to experience the spectacle that is a rainstorm. In early November, the onset of the rains is heralded by the intense heat—stultifying, stupefying heat—heat that beats down and bakes the earth and sucks every bit of available moisture upwards into the atmosphere. This oppressive heat slows down every aspect of nature, until it’s in a self-induced slumber... an African equivalent of hibernation or a kind of overdue pregnancy. Not a breath is wasted—not even by the wind—as the big wait continues.

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Well into November, deep rolling thunder in the distance heralds the arrival of moisture-saturation and a dull and dusty sky soon transforms into a canvas of sharp shards of lightning piercing deep purple-grey clouds. All this built-up energy is about to be unleashed and spent where it is most needed, and it must return from whence it came—earthwards.

As the wind picks up, the rain arrives at a tree near you. Big blobs of moisture bounce off dust-laden leaves and bark and there’s an audible sigh of relief as six months of dust is settled. Flora can breathe again and the animals will soon eat again.

And the best part is still to come...that first whiff of petrichor, a musky scent formed by the reaction when chemicals emanating from the concentrated spores of soil bacteria collide with the first rain drops.

Add to this the fragrance of oils given off by plants in arid conditions and the result is a heady fragrance that makes your evolutionary brain smile. Ask any African, it’s the very stuff that formed our souls and continues to feed them. It’s a primal sensation and it smells of new beginnings and times of plenty. Somebody should surely bottle it and label it thus.

When these first rains arrive, nature literally springs back to life from its heat-driven coma. The recovery is instantaneous; and as a visitor, now is the time to take pleasure in wondrous things: the migrant birds, the wild flowers and the depth and clarity of the colours. It’s also a time to share in the joy that is nature’s bounty—the grasses that shoot up overnight, the bulbs that poke their heads up through the soft earth and the new leaf on the trees. From the dark and moody skies to the soft green leaves and shoots, it’s a landscape of delight.

Throw in all the colourful birds, butterflies and new-born animals and you’ll be

forgiven for thinking that it’s a fantasy stage set. But it was not always like this...

Across the border—Zimbabwe

Hwange National Park, first created as a game reserve nearly a century ago, and later proclaimed a national park in 1961, is home to over 100 different species of mammal and 400 bird species. This naturally arid area was originally only suitable for seasonal game migration, but after having walked most of the reserve on foot between 1928 and 1929, the first warden, Ted Davison, identified areas that needed to be supported by the creation of artificial waterholes and pans to supplement the few seasonal rivers, pans and seeps. Some of these original boreholes still survive today along with many more, albeit now run on solar pumps and not their noisy diesel predecessors.

Dedicated conservationists, safari operators and friends of Hwange support this massive undertaking which ensures that the park has water at strategic locations, even during the most severe droughts.

Against all these water scarcity odds, Hwange continues to be a top safari destination. It’s not only the vastness that attracts visitors; it’s the diversity that it offers. From grasslands to wetlands, from forests to craggy granite outcrops and from seeps to springs, the landscape is ever-changing, and never more obvious than in the rainy season. There’s a habitat for every animal which is why it boasts so many different species of herbivores and of course their trusted followers, the carnivores.

Most people come on safari to see animals...big animals, and big herds of animals. The Big Five is such an overused term and sometimes an insult to them all. Of course they’re wonderful to see, but a sighting of a bee-eater snatching a grasshopper in mid-flight or an impala lamb struggling to take its first few steps can be just as rewarding as a bored lion watching over his kill. Yes, in the green season, the big herds of buffalo and elephant will have congregated and moved to outlying water sources, but the main waterholes will now be a different delight to behold as the wet season brings with it a stress-free few months for the animals. Most antelope drop their young as the rains arrive and so a game drive does not disappoint if it’s cuteness you’re after. Youngsters born with legs that they still need to grow into—calves, lambs and foals—totter and gambol about and nursery herds of eland, sable and wildebeest rest peacefully in woodland groves. These larger herbivores are much more relaxed during the green season, not having to move such great distances for food.

Now is the time to sit quietly at the waterholes and observe a totally different side to these animals. They’re calm, they’re relaxed and they’re freshly washed, with no dusty irritated skin troubling their nerves and no insatiable thirst or ever-present hunger. Food and water are plentiful and so they can afford to rest and form bonds, and the smaller antelope can dare to be more adventurous as they have more grass cover. The sun comes up earlier and dips

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below the horizon a lot later, giving visitors so many more hours to observe this serenity and time of plenty.

If you’re visiting the park in the wet season, a 6.00am game drive is brisk, not cold, but it’s the afternoon ones which will enchant you. Afternoon thunderstorms are common from late November to March. Wherever you are, whether seated at your campsite or lodge or out on a game drive, you can watch the storm clouds gather, build up and roll in, and dark skies and carpets of green vegetation make for magnificent landscape photography. Every now and again a silver shaft of light penetrates the clouds and the result is magical. Whilst the dry season brings a dusty haze which adds interesting filters to photographs, the crisp, clean colours of the rainy season make for more dramatic shots. Any sunset in Africa deserves a sundowner but when there is moisture in the distance and different layers of cloud, the resultant shot calls for a

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double. Any animal silhouetted against the setting sun is an added bonus!

On the birding front, any birder will tell you that it’s the diversity of Hwange that makes it so attractive to the migrant birds.

Woodlands, grasslands, marshlands and isolated pools all provide perfect nesting spots, and the smaller pans and pools offer safe nesting grounds for the breeding ducks as they have great cover and no crocodiles or large fish present. Whether the migrants are escaping harsh winters to the north or flying in to breed, there’s a spot in the sun for them all. From little pygmy geese to pelicans, from cuckoos to cranes, skimmers to snipes or flycatchers to flamingos, the list of arrivals is endless and worthy of a whole new article. Southern carmine bee-eaters arrive en masse just before the rains do.

European and blue-cheeked bee-eaters also fly in to join their locally resident little, swallow-tailed and white-fronted brethren.

Helping them decimate the newly hatched

insect population are all five species of rollers found in Southern Africa— purple, lilac-breasted and racket-tailed rollers are present all year round; broad-billed rollers arrive to breed and European rollers come for the company and food!

All of this insect and reptile snatching by birds, munching of grass and shoots by herbivores and efficient hunting of all of the above by the carnivores, reminds us that Hwange is still one of the finest places to watch the circle of life complete itself in one season—the green season. What comes from the earth must return to it and we are immensely privileged to bear witness to it all.

But I’ve left the best part until last. If you do visit in the green or emerald season, not only will your flight and accommodation be cheaper, but there’ll also be far fewer vehicles and humans around.

Book your tickets now!

Across the border—Zimbabwe

Thoughts from Zimbabwe...

By Flo Coughlan (Photography by Flo Coughlan)

DOGGED ELEPHANTS I was sitting under a tree one day in Mana Pools National Park watching the dogs do what they do every day at midday...absolutely nothing. It was extremely hot and so I was doing the same thing! Out of the corner of my eye I saw a young bull elephant approaching nonchalantly. Like us, he was operating on reduced power and so I knew what was to come when he inadvertently stumbled upon the dogs.

Elephants can’t bear any large carnivores for obvious reasons, but I have absolutely no idea why wild dogs irritate them so. The next time a dog even tries to chase an elephant, let alone catch one, will be the first time! However, for some reason, the minute these gentle giants catch a whiff of anything canine, they charge, trunks flailing and trumpeting loudly.

The dogs moved off, looking irritated and bemused, while the elephant looked a little comical, especially as it was a young male. Breeding herds take the task more seriously and with less noise, and the old bulls just can’t be too bothered with it all.

It’s all about wisdom I suppose...and what to waste your energy on. If you’re an elephant mother, it’s about protection; if you’re a big breeding bull, it’s the knowledge that you’re at the top of the pecking order, so why bother; and if you’re a young bull, it’s all about establishing your position...all primal things really.

WHEN IT’S JUST NOT YOUR DAY! This photo was taken many years ago in Mana Pools National Park but it still haunts me. The hapless impala had already escaped the clutches of a pack of wild dogs by jumping into the Zambezi River right in front of us. Unfortunately for him, a lioness, together with her mother and cub, was watching the whole show from a small island across the channel. We watched her get up slowly, swim across the channel quietly, and then stalk the antelope along the river’s edge. As the poor impala clambered up the steep, almost vertical embankment, he found the lioness waiting for him. She had calmly climbed out down-river and then waited for him at the top. The impala, in sheer terror, proceeded to run straight towards where we stood watching this incredible event. Fortunately for us, but not the impala, the lioness caught him just metres from us. They both tumbled down the river into a half-submerged tree, where she finished the poor animal off. It just wasn’t his day!

The cub and older lioness had watched the entire episode from the island, only swimming across once their meal was ready. They then dragged it out of the water and up the bank to feast on their very serendipitous catch.

I was the only one lucky enough to capture this shot as everyone else was too enthralled to photograph it! It does lack composition and clarity but I think the subject matter makes up for it.

BIRDS RULE I’ve spent a large part of my life observing vertebrates, from humans to hippos, but still the class that impresses me most is the humble bird. And when, like these yellow-billed storks fishing in a shallow pool in Mana Pools National Park, they are in beautiful breeding plumage (bright red faces and legs), they fascinate me even more.

Imagine, if we humans could indicate our intent so easily, it would sure save a lot of time and money, and in some cases, wasted effort! And so, if I apply a little zoomorphism and anthropomorphism, I ask myself, why do we use the term ‘bird-brained’ so disparagingly?

Could we, like some storks, and so many other migrant birds, wake up one day and fly the length of Africa or further, without a GPS or night vision goggles? No, we certainly couldn’t. And although we humans like to ‘nest’ and ‘get broody’, could we possibly weave a nest with tiny feet and a beak? Again an emphatic No! Finally, I’m of the generation where girls were still allowed to be referred to as ‘pretty chicks’. Did they rule the roost…Yes!

So my pointless point is this…have we indeed been trying to emulate birds since time immemorial?

And I haven’t even mentioned flying or fishing yet!

You can follow Flo Coughlan on the following links: Instagram: flocoughlan / Facebook: flocoughlanphotography

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Across the border—Zimbabwe Writer: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson Photography: Flo Coughlan

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hyena, a sound which always thrills me as it seems to embody the wild soul of Africa.

The following day, after I’d woken in the brief, beautiful pre-dawn, we set off on an early game drive and immediately saw n July, 1996, I had just returned from hyena, perhaps the one I’d heard last night. a week’s canoeing trip down the Zambezi, After an enormous breakfast we tried our paddling from Chirundu as far as Kanyemba hand at a spot of fishing, with no success at on the Mozambique border. Each night we all, so in the evening we had to settle for a slept out in our sleeping bags under Africa’s steak and boerewors braai instead of fish. starlit heaven. It was a week that I shall However, well fuelled and fortified, I spent a never forget. cold but mercifully snore-free night.

After my canoeing trip I felt on top of the world. Sometimes paddling had been hard work, but that was part of the challenge and the fun. I was staying with friends in Harare; it was the middle of winter and very cold at night, and on the canoeing trip I had been pretty chilly, despite my three sleeping bags.

When my friends announced that we were shortly heading off to Mana Pools for a few days I was therefore looking forward to sleeping in a nice, warm tent. I was so excited; I was returning to the Zambezi valley!

We arrived at Mana around tea-time, and the first thing to do was to put up our tents.

My friends had no problem in erecting their cosy, spacious home. However, when it came to my tent, borrowed from another friend, the poles were nowhere to be found.

‘No worries,’ I said. After all, I’d just spent a week on the Zambezi, sleeping alfresco, and a few more nights under the stars should be no problem. On our first night my sleep was fragmented. However, in between intermittent bursts of stentorian snoring emanating from the nearby tent, I managed to identify the familiar chilling whoop of a

But this was not the end of the story. The following night, our last at Mana Pools, after I had watched the baobabs silhouetted against the evening sky, with a crescent moon and a single star as a backdrop, and had seen a lone hyena on our game drive Fishermen do not give up easily, and the next and wondered if maybe it was my visitor, I day rods and lines were put to the test again. crept into my bed anticipating another This time two tiger fish and a chessa were nocturnal encounter. The night passed consigned to the smoker we’d brought with without incident, but in the morning, as I us in anticipation of piscatorial success, and awoke to a spectacular sunrise and the cry a delicious fish lunch set us up splendidly for of a fish eagle, I observed hyena spoor all our evening game drive. This was round my bed and in our camp. memorable as it was the first time I had seen cheetah in the wild. Although in the years to But where was the fish smoker? It had been follow I have seen cheetah many times, the in a plastic bag and we found it about 200 memory of those three superb, yards away, down by a water tap. I had heard supple, streamlined animals in Mana nothing, but my hyena friend had obviously remains particularly special. We had enjoyed been attracted by the smell of the smoker such a wonderful game drive that a few and had decided on a relocation exercise celebratory drinks were called for when we without first alerting me of its intent. returned to camp, but after dinner it was early to bed for everyone.

Upon reflection, I had been very lucky.

Hyenas have immensely powerful jaws and At about 2.00am I had to get up to answer a if my visitor had decided that I was fair game call of nature, and, as usual, shone my torch I probably would not be relating this around just to make sure the coast was clear. experience here. As it is, I have a deep resIt was, and shortly I returned to my camp pect and admiration for these creatures, do bed. I have no idea what time it was when not see them as the bad guys of the animal again I woke up, but it was light enough for kingdom, and my brush with a hyena, who me clearly to make out a creature right at was only curious and hungry, is one of the the foot of my bed, staring directly at me. It highlights of my ongoing African odyssey. was a hyena. We eyeballed each other for a few seconds before I came to my senses and

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loudly used language that I could not possibly repeat here. Fortunately the hyena did what I told it to, and despite waking up yet again thinking it had returned, and shining my torch around swearing vociferously, it had abandoned me for the night, much to my great relief.

Writers: Julie and Adam Bates Photography: Shutter Speed Pictures

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dvances in technology have meant that taking unimaginative selfies and shots ‘for the record’ with cameras is now very easy and the internet is filled with mediocre and poor photography. But really good photography requires a way of seeing things in an exciting way; you need to have a ‘good eye’. It also requires an understanding of how a camera works so that you can control the image instead of using the camera just to point and shoot. You have to inject some of yourself—photographer’s input— and patience, attention to detail and a keenness not to settle for just OK are also key requirements if you want consistently to produce imaginative and high impact photographs.

A couple of times a year we meet up in Mfuwe near the fabulous South Luangwa National Park to teach photography to conservation students of Chipembele (Chipembele Wildlife Education Trust). We have a week of hard core photography, stretching everyone’s creativity across camera setting alternatives such as Nature, Macro, Low Light/Night, Portraiture, Street and even Food! In between these workshops, we facilitate monthly camera club meetings; we set a project for the students and after their two-hour session they submit their images online for our feedback.

Then, at the end of each year, the most interesting photos are selected and a travelling exhibition sets off to Project Luangwa (a charitable organisation initiated by the safari operators of South Luangwa) and some of the safari lodges in the Valley...do look out for the exhibition if you’re coming to South Luangwa.

BUSH PHOTOGRAPHY LESSONS

Increasingly, we are blown away by a handful of images and wish we had taken them ourselves!

This photography project has been running for three years now but even in the first year we were impressed by some of the kids’ imagination and it was evident some of them had ‘the eye’. Some of the students have now graduated from school and fantastically one of them has gone on to become an independent wildlife and conservation film maker (Mosam Media). Another is a trainee chef at The Bushcamp Company where he manages to combine his two passions—cooking and photography—and our first female graduate is currently working on The Book Bus, encouraging reading for fun and not just for learning...she fits in some sparetime photography as well. Most of the school leaver students are keen photography hobbyists, unable to afford a DSLR (digital single-lens reflex) camera, but we have encouraged them (not always successfully!) to use their ‘phone cameras to take imaginative and impactful shots.

All in all it has been a wonderful project, impossible without the donated resources and staff of Chipembele. The students’ willingness to persevere to understand the tricky technology theory—especially the girls—grasping new vocabulary, and their preparedness to keep striving for perfection has really endeared these students to us and so our own big game photography which initially brought us to the fabulous South Luangwa National Park is no longer the only drawcard. http://www.shutterspeedpictures.co.uk https://www.chipembele.org https://m.facebook.com/mosammedia https://www.bushcampcompany.com

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Across the border—Zimbabwe

IT ' S A DOG'S LIFE

Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: Shaun Stanley

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Zambezi Escarpment across the river. And Nyamatusi Camp, a stunning, brand new camp, is where, between game drives and wild dog sightings, we relaxed in the lap of e sat, silently watching the luxury. It was on an afternoon drive from wild dogs...16 in total. They lay napping in Zambezi Expeditions that we’d had our first a shady depression, camouflaged by their wild dog encounter and when we moved mottled coats. The air was warm and still and the only sound to be heard was that of camp to Nyamatusi we would see the dogs distant birds. Aside from the occasional flick again the next morning. After what had clearly been a successful hunt they lay of a tail, the pack lay inert. We observed, transfixed, as the sun sank lower in the sky. resting, with blood-smeared faces and bloated tummies.

One by one the dogs awoke, yawned and stretched. Getting to their feet, the pack The Zambezi River at Mana Pools is wide members exchanged elaborate greetings, whimpering as they sniffed, smelt and licked and dotted with islands. The silhouettes of one another. The dogs became livelier, and it elephants, buffalo, hippo and more are became apparent what the 20 or 30 hooded visible, wading in the shallows and feeding on the banks. Mana Pools is a 219,600vultures, lurking in the wings, had been hectare national park and wildlife waiting for. In preparation for their conservation and World Heritage area in evening’s hunt, the dogs voided their northern Zimbabwe, situated along the digestive systems. I watched, horrified, as the vultures squabbled over and made quick lower stretches of the Zambezi River. The river has, over time, gradually changed its work of these ‘deposits’. Having ‘lightened course, leaving behind river channels, their load’, the dogs pranced and played, ox-bow lakes and seasonal pools, making half-hearted, playful attempts to catch the still lingering vultures. There was surrounded by forests of winter thorn, a definite light-hearted atmosphere amongst mahogany, wild fig, ebony and baobab trees.

Mana is the Shona (local language) word for the pack members as they gambolled ‘four’, and within the park the abandoned together, waiting for the last few deep sleepers to stir. Playtime over, it was time to river channels have created four large pools, giving the park its name. All this water get to work and the pack readied itself for provides an abundance of vegetation, the night’s hunt. A hyena appeared, attracting a wealth of game. In the dry previously hidden from sight, obviously intending to follow the dogs, hoping to cash season, the shady glades beneath the trees in on their hard work and score a free meal. are filled with concentrations of wildlife: herds of impala, eland, elephant, zebra, buffalo, waterbuck and kudu. These We had come to Mana Pools to stay with African Bush Camps and were lucky enough populations provide a plentiful supply of to see wild dogs from two of their camps— prey for both predators and scavengers.

Zambezi Expeditions and Nyamatusi Camp. There are several sizeable prides of lion, as well as leopard and hyena. Mana Pools is a Zambezi Expeditions is perched on the stronghold for wild dog, sometimes called banks of the Zambezi, with the painted wolves, African painted dogs, or magnificent backdrop of Zambia and the Cape hunting dogs.

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Currently listed as endangered by the IUCN, with only 6,600 remaining in the wild, African wild dogs are one of the continent’s most captivating carnivores and one of its most endangered species. Once found all over Africa, their numbers have drastically declined over the last 100 years. Seen as pests by farmers and frequently blamed for livestock deaths (that are more often than not the work of lion or hyena) they are often poisoned, or catch distemper and rabies from domestic dogs. With vast home ranges, wild dogs are vulnerable to humans.

Nowadays, populations are limited to pockets of wildlife sanctuaries and reserves.

At Mana Pools the wild dogs live far from human habitation, so the risk to their survival is relatively limited. They thrive in the park and can regularly be seen hunting twice a day, generally in the early morning and late afternoon, when the weather is a little cooler. There are six main wild dog packs in the park, numbering around one hundred individuals. Three of these packs live on the flood plains and have become relatively accustomed to human visitors.

Wild dogs are hugely successful hunters, having a success rate of around 80 per cent, which is remarkable considering lions only average around 30 per cent. Hunting in packs, numbering anywhere from five to 40, the adults combine to become an awesome killing machine, communicating constantly with bird-like chirrups and hoots. They are prodigious athletes, able to outrun almost any creature over long distances. Using stamina to overcome their prey, they can maintain an impressive 50 kilometres an hour for extended periods of time, occasionally reaching top speeds of 70 kilometres an hour and basically running their prey to exhaustion. Wild dogs’ ability to co-ordinate their moves, combined with

their relentless running skills, enables them to take down an animal over 10 times their size and literally tear it limb from limb at an astonishing rate, eating pretty much the entire carcass… right down to the eye balls!

Across the border—Zimbabwe

Wild dog packs have an extraordinary social dynamic; they play, nurture and communicate efficiently with one another, functioning as a highly integrated group.

Play forms an integral part of wild dog society and helps to reinforce pack hierarchies and bonds. Each pack member is an individual, with unique characteristics and behaviour, and each takes on a different role within the group. With their intriguing markings, each as unique as a fingerprint, and an intimate social structure combined with impressive hunting success, these are fascinating creatures to watch. After the hunt the pack will usually return to the den, where they regurgitate their kill for the pups, as well as for old or injured pack members. The whole pack will work together to raise a litter of pups, even if that means letting them feed first on a kill.

Wild dogs are a ‘weather vane’ species for conservation—an indicator of the health of the whole ecosystem. Their presence in Mana Pools is definitely a sign of a successfully balanced environment. www.africanbushcamps.com

'Inland from Mana Pools lies the hidden gem of Chitake Springs. This is an area which epitomises the wild, where annually the natural Chitake spring is a life source and of crucial importance to a diversity of wildlife occurring in this southern part of Mana Pools National Park. It is here where the "battle for survival" between large herds of buffalo and prides of lion takes place during the drier months of the year'. Shelley Cox, Africa Conservation Travel TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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