T R E N D J O U R N A L S
MAGGIE HOYLE Fall 2016
T A E O F C O
COLOR 5 Cartoon Color 6 Rich Earth Tones
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ACCESSORY 3 The Sculptural Bag 4 Futuristic Footwear
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APPAREL 1 Victorian Femme 2 Experimental Denim
N T E
PRINTS & GRAPHICS 7 Letters on Everything 8 Animale Iconography
N T S
BEAUTY 9 Glossy
APPAREL
There is a reemergence of femininity and it is being executed in the most punk way - on both the runway and in street style. I’ve labeled this trend as “Victorian Femme� because there are clear influences from the victorian age of dress but it is being done by designers in a modern, sometimes minimalistic way. Some designers, like Alessandro Michele at Gucci or J.W. Anderson, are pushing this trend over the top - from the extreme silhouette and heavy fabrics. Some other designers are opting to keep it simple and lightlike Rodarte and Self Portrait. It seems to make the transition to street style much smoother because of the variety offered.
trend1 victorian femme
Spring / Summer 2017 Runway
self portrait
j.w.anderson
gucci
rodarte
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In the past, this trend has been seen but comes off in a darker, more gothic way - or we have also seen it emerge in the 1950s from the Teddy Boys and Girls culture. This time, it seems Spring/ Summer 17 will be feeling this trend in a lighter, airier way. Even when it is being executed in a leather fabric, it is still feminine in nature. This trend continues to expand even more than the examples given - many brands are exaggerating ruffles and other feminine details. It seems like women are welcoming this new wave of femininity.
Phil O Milan Street Style 2016 Phil O New York Street Style 2016 Street Style x vogue.com Phil O Paris Street Style 2016
trend2
experimental denim
Spring / Summer 2017 Runway
Denim is popping up all over the runways and in street style but this classic textile is being used in completely new ways. The world saw denim grow in popularity in the 1970s and I feel we are having that same energy come forward but with new, modern styles. Here are just three examples from three very different designers that are experimenting with the draping and styles of denim. I think what is interesting is the fact that even Carolina Herrera used this very industrial and - dare I say - blue collar textile to design an evening gown. The versatility of denim is really being showcased. From the weights to the finishings, designers are honing in on how far this textile can be pushed.
marques almeida
carolina herrara
y/project
The experimentation does not stop at the runway level - I could argue that the true experimentation is starting from the street and working it’s way up. The beauty of this trend is that the wearers feel they have more control over the unique ways of piecing denim together. With the raw edges and patchwork trends that are coming out, I think people are having more fun seeing how far they can push the street style. There is almost an air of DIY attitude but because denim is becoming more high fashion, it doesn’t come off as cheap. I think denim will continue to grow, especially with the new wave of young designers, and I think it will be pushed back to a grunge - like style.
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Paris street style via vogue.com London street style via vogue.com London street style via vogue.com MISBHV SS17 at Made NYC image via pinterest.com
ACCESSORY
andrea jiapel
future glory
trend3
the sculptural bag
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Accessory trends are always interesting to me because most of the time is is important to craft items that are aesthetically pleasing and practical. Thats why I am really intrigued by this new trend in bags that are oddly shaped and sculptural. There is a clear influence from architecture and found objects but crafted so nicely that they are just as important to an outfit as the clothes are. These bags are becoming the staple stand out piece on an outfit - runway or streetstyle. I also think it is interesting how many designers put such an emphais on the bags which expands and shifts the point of view of the clothes presented as well.
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With each bag, every detail is taken into consideration and the entire bag, strap and all, adds to the sculptural aesthetic. Some add print to their bag and I think this is really thoughtul because it adds even more dimension and accentuates the angles and even more. It seems to me that this is taking the idea of the bucket bag and pushing it further. Accessory design is taking many cues from other art forms, like sculpture and architecture and applying for practical use.
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Lemaire SS17 Balenciaga SS17 Loewe SS17 Fendi SS17 Backstage Lemaire AW16
trend4
futuristic footwear
gray matters
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Much like the sculptual bag trend, footwear is starting to take on a similar sculptural style. However, when this new trend presents itself in footwear, it gives off very futuristic vibes. There are many ways to look at this futuristic footwear trend but I chose to focus on how feminine shapes are being restructured. Heels are something that will never lose their style and timelessness and I feel like these new styles are pulling great influence from heels from the 1940s and 1950s. We are retrieving back into classic styles with lower heels but keeping a modern shape.
Shoe design is taking on to the minimalistic approach but being more experimental in the products. Minimalist clothing is generally staying with neutral color palettes while accessories, and shoes in particular, are branching out in the color and line elements. While clothing is becoming larger and exaggerated, shoes are becoming more shaped with smaller heels. I think it is interesting how apparel is going one direction and accessory is going another when it comes to the minimalistic trend and in a way they balance out nicely. When I look at these new shoes coming out, I am triggered with images of The Jetsons and see how the new styles are putting us further into the future.
gray matters
prada
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Mulberry SS17 Marni SS17 Stella McCartney SS17 Stella McCartney SS17 Acne SS15
COLOR
Cartoon color is the new black - and I mean very bright, over saturated, playful colors. As we are going through this time in fashion that is minimalistic and colorless, it was unexpected to see so much color emerging on the SS17 runways. I reference this color trend to cartoons because there is a focus on primary colors and secondary colors which seems rather juvenile and playful - in the best way. Also, the colors are very heavy on the garments. Meaning, while many colors are represented, they are in big pieces with an overwhelming amount of the same color which comes off as heavy and flat - much like cartoons.
trend5 cartoon color
thome browne resort 2017
Spring / Summer 2017 Runway
thome browne
balenciaga
marques almeida
delpozo
balenciaga
vetements
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I think this color trend is responding to this minimazing of color in fashion loud and clear. The color is happy and exciting and brings more excitement to the street style. These bright colors are being used in visual merchandising as well - not just clothes. By using the lighter and pleasing colors it definitely draws attention of the consumer so it is beneficial to use this trend in windows of stores and I can see it soon making its way to ecommerce and graphics as well. It is expressive and seems to be drawing us out of this dark, colorless state we have been in. As the consumer begins to lead fashion etailers more and more I think this color trend will become more popular. I think people aren’t as timid with their exuberance in their clothing anymore, which is leading the wearer to be more colorful and expressive which will soon translate into the merchandising world as well.
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Phil O New York Street Style 2016 Milan Street Style 2016 x vogue.com Phil O New York Street Style 2016 Gucci Store Window AW 2016
Currently, there are many lifestyle trends that are focusing on people getting back in touch with their roots and I think this color trend is an exact representation of that idea. Earth tones are, generally, always in forecast but I feel like this time around they are much more rich and striking. This is also a direct contrast to the cartoon color palette earlier presented. While that trend had a focus on exuberance, this color palette has a more quiet and natural zest. Color trends generally tie pretty tightly to what is going on in the world and I think with all the change that is happening, people are searching for their roots and longing for a deeper connection with the Earth.
trend6 rich earth tones
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This color palette is showing up in many different markets on the runway - from evening wear to sportswear. On top of the earthly tones, they are also bringing forward tones of feminity. The palette is a warmer take on neutrals, so even the stark whites that are coming down the runway, still have some warmth. Designers are also experimenting with fabrics and textiles in these tones. Normally, when I think of neutrals, I am drawn towards lighter cotton fabrics like linen but these colors are coming out in an aray of textiles. Satin silks, sheer fabrics, and nylons. I think this is a color palette that will last long after the runway presentations and even be taken into interior design and architecture. This palette is more of a reflection on our society so it will take form in many different ways.
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wunderkind
fenty x puma
bottega veneta
loewe
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Dior Cruise 2016 Elle South Africa Self Service Ashley Rowe Saint Records
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PRINTS AND GRAPHICS
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trend7
letters on everything
Express yourself. No seriously, everyone is doing it. Whether it is brands putting their label on everything, or taking a more DIY approach - people are putting their mark and opinion on just about evrything. It seems to me that graphics and lettering are becoming popular again and it is being done in an almost nostalgic way. Forget your plain white tee, go ahead and put your heart on the sleeve and say whatever is on your mind.
gucci
vetements
off white hood by air
Street style to high end, HBA to Gucci - brands are becoming more expressive. I think this is appealing to consumers because they feel like they can relate to what is put on the clothes now. So while the brands are able to speak their minds, so can the people who buy and wear the items. This makes the gap between producer and consumer much smaller. It is the band tee re-imagined.
This is a time when people are bombarded with ideas, opinions and problems - day in a day out. To me, this graphics trend makes complete sense because people are getting their voice back. People arent afraid to speak their mind and let the world know what their opinions are. It is becoming cool to speak out. Whether is is a graphic tee or overloading brands and logos on any and every item, people are expressing what matters to them. We are in a generation where experience and emotions drive a lot of our decisions and also instant gratification. People have the freedom to put whatever they want out into the world and we can also instantly tell how others respond to it.
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image via pinterest.com Milan street style 2016 x vogue.com Milan Street style 2016 x vogue.com Avanope instagram Street style via pinterest.com
kenzo x h&m
MM6 x Maison Martin Margiela
trend8
animale iconography
Gucci x Gia Coppola
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Animal motifs are coming out from very high end designers and I think this is a very unexpected trend that many are latching on to. Gucci jumpstarted this trend in the Resort 17 collections and many are followig suit. I am intrigued by the way these motifs are being presented because they are not coming out in ditsy prints like you would expect, but instead they are large print, often embroidered or through the use of aplique, with one or two animals on an item. The animals range from cats, to birds and even lobsters - shown on the Christian Dior piece and these animals are almost presented in a idealized way.
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The fact that these motifs are being mostly embroidered or attached through aplique gives these high end clothes a genuine feel. In the Pam Gela piece there is also inspiration seemed to be drawn from traditional tattooing - another trend also popping up from Gucci. These different influences and applications add authenticity and a “cool� factor to the traditionally high end brands. I think many designers are taking to this trend because they tie more closely with prints coming from streetstyle but the fact that they are embroidered keeps the prints on brand.
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Gucci Resort 2017 Max Mara SS17 Gucci SS17 Christian Dior SS17 Pam Gela SS17 Main Booth SS17
BEAUTY
trend9 glossy
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Today, beauty trends are driving many of the lifestyle trends for women and they are becoming reflective of how women are feeling. The one I chose to focus on is this new make up trend that has a glossy finish. This trend leaves the skin looking dewy and sometimes a pop of color is added. It is a fresh new take on a fresh face - further taking the trend of the “no make up� make up. The idea of glossy skin is almost an adolescent one which is interesting and shows that women are trying to acheive a more younger, natural look.
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I feel like some of this trend is also pulling influence from the early 2000s because of the heavy gloss and especially when there is color added. It is interesting how fads from the 1990s and now the 2000s are coming back in full force. I feel like the ultra girly girl styles from the 2000s are presented in this glossy make up trend and girls are able to look ultra feminine with this look. Clearly, women are longing for the idea of femininity and youth and it is presenting itself in this girly, glossy trend - further reinforcing the idea that we are reaching back to their roots. I also think this make up trend is also allowing women to feel more pure in their girly-ness which follows closely with the new wave of feminism that is happening.
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1 - 6 images via pinterest.com
TREND JOURNALS MAGGIE HOYLE