TREND JOURNALS AW18
Maggie Hoyle FASM430-02
TABLE OF CONTENTS
beauty 1 Alien Beauty prints & graphics 2 Guy Fieri Flames styling 3 Homeless Chic social movement 4 Acne embrace accessory 5 the Ugly Shoe 6 Impractical Sunglasses 7 The Rise of Fanny Packs culture 8 The Influencers
A A
A N T I - FA S H I O N A N T I - FA S H I O N A N T I - FA S H I O N
FA S H I O N FA S H I O N FA S H I O N
The purpose of this trend journal is to showcase trends that reject the norm. These trends embrace the ‘ugly’ and turn it into it’s own form of beauty. There is a mega trend in the industry that follows these ideas and each of these smaller trends somehow conforms into the bigger picture. These trends create a space for the outsider to showcase their personal style and be accepted for it.
T R E N D T R E N D T R E N D
[beauty]
ALIEN BEAUTY
Facial contouring through means of make up is becoming a maga trend - especially through social media outlets such as Instagram and Youtube. Free tutorials make these types of make up techniques available to anyone with access to the internet. We have also seen how these new advances in make up can be widely applied and explored. Make up is even bridging the gap between women and men. This has been done for a long time now among the drag community and now it is becoming more mainstream. Drag make up has created wonderful outlets for people to showcase an artistry in the make up world and this artistry is being taken to a new cult level. To an other-worldly level. The emergence of these underground and innovative forms of drag are flooding social media and gaining traction - even Bjork hopped onto the quirky trend. This beauty trend is an experimental disguise through distortion. The result is sometimes terrifying but has it’s own form a beauty and artistry that is undeniable. A leader in this movement is @isshehungry and they got their start in Berlin and now have become international. They see this form of make up as a transformation of reality and I think this can be applied to many of these emerging artists. Some even make it a permanent piece of their body through body modifications.
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A body modification artist name Grace Neutral is one of these artist who have chosen to make these alien like distortions permanent. She can be seen on many public spaces including VICE where she explores this underground world of make up and modifications. I think this trend speaks to a new movement of growing self expression and rejection of norms. This, while an extreme form, is a response to the traditional types of beauty that flood our social media platforms. New platforms can be created from this trend and that is one that celebrates - and enhances- our flaws and fears into something that is shockingly beautiful.
1 @isshehungry 2 @isshehungry 3 @matieresfecales 4 @salvjiia 5 6 Bjork by Tim Walker
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[prints & graphics]
GUY FIERI FLAMES
The iconic flame print as a graphic is moreover associated with fast cars, big trucks, smash mouth era grunge and the infamous Chef Guy Fieri. While the loud mouth tv chef made these flames famous - while equally ridiculed- they gained attention. Now they are gaining the attention of top fashion houses like Prada and Dior and even worn by Rihanna. You could say these, dare I say cheesy, flame prints are finding their way to the high street. A print with bad boy appeal seem to emphasize this continuing bottom up trend. Many top brands are taking major inspiration from street style. While these prints and designs, especially seen on the Prada runway, feel very Johnny Depp in Fear & Loathkng in Las Vegas - they carry very high names with it. Editors at Vogue do not have the greatest hope for this trend but I see this as something that can be made more sophisticated and acceptable. With the right personal styling this could be a trend that could even be taken into the board room - and then to the dive bar after work. Due to the bottom up influence of the trend, this is also a way for big brands to tap into a different generation and wider range of customers.
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This is also a style that can be adopted in many ways and many small startup brands on Etsy and depop see this as a go to print as well. There is an underground feel to this print with a homage to 90s grunge which is making a comeback in styling as well. Along with the flame print, we have seen a reemergence of known brands with cult status such as Thrasher that fit into this trend seamlessly. Thrasher and the logo it carries has begun to infultrate high end brands as well. So whether it be the skate culture, punk culture or Guy Fieri himself, there is a definite push for this fiery graphic across all levels of the industry - mens and womens, the punks and the polished. Is it time we can we put Dior and punkin the same sentence? 1 image via pinterest 2 SSS World Corp Menswear FW18 3 Prada Menswear FW18 4 Dior Menswear FW18 5 image via Pinterest 6 Rihanna in JunJie 7 Streetstyle via Vogue 8 Vetements FW18 9 @johnyuyi
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[styling]
HOMELESS CHIC
The fashion rules are being broken and embracing non fashion trends are in. This trend we are seeing is one that uses exaggerated layers and mixed prints & patterns to create a true on the go style. I call it homeless chic because there is a messy, thrown together aspect to it and almost seems as if the person could live in the clothes. This might be the most trickle up trend to date. However, the homeless chic has a price tag. High end brands are adopting this type of stying for the runways and presentations - from Vetements to Kenzo. There is a quirk to the collections and somehow their aesthetic seem to resonate-especially with street style. The idea of taking everything in your closet and putting it all on at once is working - it’s the perfect solution to not knowing what to wear. Just wear it all. Turning garmets inside out, covering every inch of skin and excessive layering is at the heart of this trend. Demna Gvasalia stated in an interview said he was shedding some light on “the elephant in the room� which could be his transition as the new head and everyone wanting to see what he would bring forward. With that idea he ran and brought forward a new Margiela approach with his own twist. The elphant in the room could also speak to the broader ideas at play in society and how we can react out to and shift those ideas.
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By looking that elephant right in the eyes and embracing the awkardness, an awkward and quirky trend has been born. Spearheaded by these brands - Vetements, MM6, Kenzo Balenciaga - are reaching new levels of profit by tapping into this awkward and utilitarian style of dressing. Whether it is just to draw attention or speak to a broader climate, these brands are quickly get a streetwear cult following. Heightened by use of social media, the awkward and ugly trends are driving profits for these brands and this could be the broad reach it is getting - good and bad attention. With trends such as this, there will be push back because it goes against so many unstated rules of fashion but profit is still being driven and attention is still gained. I do think Gvasalia was onto something with the elephant in the room and I think society at large is switching things up and reacting in odd ways and it is only expected that fashion will follow that trend as well.
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1 Faith Connexion FW18 Menswear 2 Vetements FW18 Menswear 3 Kenzo FW17 Menswear 4 Henrik Vibskov FW18 5 PhilO Street Style 6 PhilO Street Style 7 PhilO Street Style
[social movement]
ACNE EMBRACE
There’s a new skin positivity movement among women - lead by Instagram made famous photographer Petra Collins and it quickly took hold amongst her cult like following. The #skinpositivity and #nomakeup is a step forward in challenging the standards of beauty. While clear skin is promoted across the industry, it is almost nearly unreachable for many woman out there. Skin positivity is another step in the mega trend of self-love which aims to devalue all the negative body image problems present on social media. Through banning together and showing that we all have some part of us that isn’t picture perfect, women are fighting the norms of beauty that have been engrained in our minds. No we don’t all have thigh gaps. Yes, stretch marks are a real thing. No, a size 0 does not fit all. And YES acne is a thing. And chances are, almost everyone has experienced the frustration of fighting it.
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Alicia keys had helped make the movement of wearing no make up by showing up to red carpets sans contour - embracing her natural beauty. Not only can we see peers on social media flanting their flaws, we even have celebrities promoting the positive message. By promoting wearing no make up and #skinpositivity the effect will have a positive effect on younger generations that are using social media more actively. Instead of their feed being full of perfectly contoured faces, the introduction of diversity in skin will ease that self-consciousness that comes along with purberty. Decreasing self doubt and rasing confidence in young girls, and guys too, will have far more positive outcomes even in terms of mental health. So, bring forward your pimples, whiteheads, blackheads, redness, dryness, oily skin and scars. #nofilter needed.
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1 @maryrosenberger 2 @monicagh_ 3 @hannahrenee77 4 @myfacestory 5 @petracollins 6 Alicia Keys unkown source
[accessories]
The UGLY SHOE
Your grandfather and dad’s easy, old school style are sending new trends down the runway. With the influence of athleisure and comfort, new styles of shoes are being seen on the runway and high end street style. New takes on shoes that have been deemed to ugly to be fashionable are being adopted at a fast rate. The rise of athleisure made it cool to be seen in your comfiest of clothes and allowed us to ditch the heels and tight pants. This same idea is being dramatized through our choice of shoes.
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Christopher Kane started this journey when he introduced his bedazzled crocs that accompanied his SS17 runway looks. While this stunned the audience, the first to jump on it were the ones in the front row. We’ve since seen more takes on the high end croc through Balenciaga’s platform croc (which sold out by noon on the day of it’s online debut). Moving from crocs, we have seen the revamp of the dad shoe and the always fashionable UGG boot. It seems we are revisiting 2006 with a haute couture twist.
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Many of these trends are being endosed by top models with thier “model off-duty” street style. Many are sporting this new version of the dad shoe - Balenciaga also leading this trend with the ‘TripleS’ sneaker and Adidas’ Yeezy Boost 700 Waverunner. With these extreme shoes, much of the appeal comes from the juxtaposition of the styling, often times being paired with a femme dress or jeans. This takes the dad shoe to a new level of chic. There is equal amounts of top-down and bottom-up influence with this trend as well.Many very high end brands are the ones taking the chance with design through these new shoe shapes but there is clearly strong ties to street style as well. I think what is interesting is how these brands are able to take somewhat lower end shoes and designs and by attaching their name, these “ugly” designer shoes become the most sought after item. I think many people who are trend followers strive to pull off the unexpected which lends itself well to the ones who dare try this trend. So, while displeasing to the eye at first, there is something to be said for how eye catching these shoes are and how desirable they can become.
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1 Balenciaga SS17 via Pinterest 2 Y/Project Fall ‘18 via Vogue 3 Vetements Fall ‘18 vis Vogua 4 Balenciage SS17 via Vogue 5 Fendi Spring ‘18 6 Sankuanz Fall ‘18 7 Balenciage TripleS by @nclgallery
[accessories]
IMPRACTICAL SUNGLASSES
Here’s a trend that is approved by the one and only - Kanye West. Stated in an email to Kim Kardashian, ‘You cannot wear big glasses anymore,’ and there a trend was born. Well, re-born. This new trend of teeny tiny sunglasses is revived from the nineties. Once seen on the ‘it’ girls of that time is now translating seemlessly into the new street style of today. Also being sported today’s ‘it’ girls (think Bella, Gigi and Kendall) - need I say more.
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While it seems like the smaller the better, this all completely contradicts the purpose of sunglasses in general. These glasses serve practical zero service in protecting from an UV rays shining down. Which adds to the long list of trends that seem to be taking hold because of the shock value they carry and how well they translate into street style. Though, the small sunglass revival got its start on the runway by none other than Balenciage (SS17) it is easily adaptable in all seasons and styles.
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It seems having a cool pair of sunglasses is almost imperative to any look. Many companies are using this to their advantage by producing all shapes and styles. Some brands, such as George Keburia, create styles that are a little more subdued in styling but extreme in shape. There are also many companies banking off the more colorful lensed glasses to hit the more “cool� instagram girls for a cheaper price. Sunglasses are a good way for companies to make quick money because they are one those items that arents expensive to buy but still help gain brand recognition. This makes it so people who aspire to own certain brands have the opportunity to become their customer for a lower price point. These small sunglasses are also an item that can be worn at many times of the day and year which allows for even more exposure. This is a great example of the way trends work, swinging away from those oversized, bug edyed days of glasses and entering into a more matrix inspired shape.
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1 Poppy Lissiman - Le Skinny 2 @sitabellan 3 George Keburia 4 @fengfan_x 5 Bella Hadid Street Style (unkown source) 6 George Keburia
[accessory]
the rise of FANNY PACKS
Yet another trends inspired by your dad’s “outdated” style. Tell him to search the attic for that “ugly” fanny pack because they are back. We are seeing a revival of 80s and 90s style and the fanny pack is at the heart of that trend. Honestly, this is a trend that I did not think could be made cool again - but leave it up to our street style mavens to make the impossible, possible.
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This is a trend that seems to be sticking around and I think it is becuase of not only the many ways to make it cool but exactly how convienent these fanny packs are. When it comes to styling, having a fanny pack creates a world of possibilities. Wear it cross body. Wear it as a belt. Where it in it’s traditional way around the hips. Create shapes with it. Go oversized or go micro. The fact that you can have fun with this macro trend lends to the attraction - because you can try out one of these new trends but easily put your own spin on it. These packs also have a way of making any outfit seem cooler. These words might come as a surprise but if you look at any of the latest runway shows, the proof is there. From cult like brands such as Vetements, Gucci and Balenciaga to the traditionally more chic brands such as Rebecca Mincoff, Celine and Ralph Lauren - they all have designed their own version of the new fanny pack.
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What I find interesting is how much this trend speaks to our greater need to be in constant motion. The macro trend of migration and our need to always be on the go completely inspires this trend and will keep it alive. The fanny pack is extremely popular in over populated countries like China and India because people in those place are always moving and need a convienent way to access their belongings. It also provides a sense of security when all of your things are right next to your body. Again, the pendulum swings with this trend. Away from the oversized boho bags that you can lose your life in and into a micro bag that is easily adaptable. While it does not hold much, we are learning how to travel with less and less , just the essentials. This trend works for those who live a more minimalistic lifestyle and it teaches us what is most important to carry around at all times.
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1 Gucci Cruise ‘18 Collection 2 Louis Vuitton x Supreme Collaboration 3 Celine SS ‘16 4 Street Style via Pinterest 5 Leandra Cohen street style 6 Kendall Jenner street style 7 Kenzo #LoveBlooms Capsule Collection
[culture]
the INFLUENCERS
The leading end of fashion always comes from those who hold their own unique point of view. With the rise of these off the wall fashion trends - anti fashion - there are a few influencers who are taking all of these trends by the reigns. Many of born of instagram which speaks to how much of these trends are a bottom up influence. While high end brands are adopting many of them and creating a pricier tag, much of these trends have a grunge, almost cult like, following before making it to the runway. Along with these influencers comes a peak of irony. Many of these anti fashion trends starting off with a mocking tone (think “CommeDesFuckDown” beanies sported by rappers). With these came an ironic take on fashion, while these types of mocking slogans stood against thesebrands, they also in a way drew more attention to them. In order to get the irony, you needed to know the brands. Here was born a more “tongue in cheek” street style, born with the millenials and conquered by Gen Y.
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Fred Davis, the author of “Fashion, Culture and Identity”, defines anti-fashion to be “oppositional dress, i.e., that which takes place in response to the currents of fashion change and does not just lie outside them”. Brands such as Balenciaga and Vetements are leaders in this mocking type fashion but many instagram influencers and musicians are the real trend leaders. The irony doesn’t just lie in their endorsing of low budget brands (IKEA, DHL tees) but actually in their movement of trying not to follow trends but in turn creating them. These influencers go against the grain but also create a new one all together. They make these styles desirable and even establish anti-fashion as the new couture. The beauty in this trend, is that even if you can’t afford the big names in fashion, you can style yourself in a similar way. So while these influencers may seem overly creative and hard to compete with, they actually create a very attainable style for those who just want to stand out with their creativity.
1 Billie Eilish for Urban Outfitters 2 @uglyworldwide 3 @wherearetheavocados 4 @princessnokia 5 @internetgirl 6 Tommy Genesis, Dustin Kemp and Nate Sells for LeftHand ‘16
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Fin.