Gourmet Today Issue 46

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FINE DINING AT LVB

TASTING MENUS TO TANTALISE YOUR TASTE BUDS

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ISSUE 46 • Ju

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Pippa Matte

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Nick Formos

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Editor’s note

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ummer started early this year (or at least it feels like it was earlier than last year!) and that means making the most out of longer days and warmer evenings. I tend to go out much less in the winter so now that the summer has set in, dining out becomes much more frequent.

This month we have come across some great new restaurants, like LVB in Valletta, a spot that is definitely going on our regular list, whilst also revisiting some old favourites, like Otters in Gozo – take a dip in the sea, enjoy the views, the food and the cocktails for an immediate holiday feel.

But life isn’t all about eating out and we have some great recipes to make dining in just as exciting. When we think of Japanese food we immediately think sushi, and while some of us have tried our hand at sushi, it’s never really quite as good as when it’s been made by a trained sushi chef. Japanese recipes are not all sushi though and we have some great Japanese recipes that are easy to make and great for mid-week meals.

We hope you enjoy this edition of Gourmet Today magazine and look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions.

Sasha

Shumarayev

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Amy Micalle f Decesare

Michael Diac

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Ramon Musc

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Bon appetit!

Nicola Collin

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CONTRIBUTORS

Gaby Hollan

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CONTENTS Contact us Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt Head Designer: Kevin Grech Design: Claire Ciantar Photography: James Bianchi, Rachel Zammit Cutajar, Paul Trapani Galea Feriol and Kevin Grech Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia afarrugia@mediatoday.com.mt Contact for advertising: Philippa Zammit pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt

Printed at: Print It Printing Services

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GOURMET TODAY WISH LIST These are a few of our favourite things

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TABLE-HOPPING We just love to eat out. These are our favourites this season

30 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH YOSHINORI IISHI London’s superstar Japanese kaiseki chef talks to Gourmet Today about his up-andcoming Mayfair restaurant Umu 34 EASY JAPANESE Easy make-at-home Japanese recipes that aren’t sushi

Published by:

Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt

JUNE 2017

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G FINE DININ B LV T A MENUS TO TASTING YOUR TANTALISE TASTE BUDS

Cover: Sea urchin at LVB Photo by James Bianchi

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34 51 A TASTE OF THE BALTIC Pippa Mattei returns from a holiday up north full of inspiration

40 DREAM KITCHEN Your kitchen is the heart of your home. These are the kitchens we love 63 GOING GLUTEN-FREE Michael Diacono whips up some easy recipes without gluten 67 AL FRESCO DINING Radisson Blu recipes best enjoyed outside 73 TIME FOR A FIESTA Our homecooks use Mexico as inspiration for a little bit of a fiesta

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WISH LIST

A job in food media comes with its own hazards, one of which is the huge wish list we put together when checking out different shops, meeting chefs and dining in restaurants. These are some of the items that have topped our list this season.

Whether you’re looking to treat yourself or looking for a gift for a foodie, these are certainly worth checking out

ADD A SPLASH OF COLOUR AND FUN MDINA GLASS OIL AND VINEGAR BOTTLES The vibrant colourful patterns of Mdina Glass will always add a splash of colour to your table setting. The Lifestyle Range is available in 10 different colours and comes in a clear or frosted finish. Make meal times more fun with these great oil and vinegar bottles.

Available from Mdina Glass outlets or online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt.

For more info contact 2141 5786 or onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt, facebook.com/mdinaglass

OUR FAVOURITE INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT Instagram is a huge source of inspiration for any foodie, not excluding us here at Gourmet Today. We often come across an account that makes it to our favourite list. This season we’re all crazy for this one.

Maria Shebets This food writer is based in Malta and keeps picture perfect documentation of her travels.

Follow her on Instagram @mymaltesekitchen and @shebets

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THIS HANDY 33CL SAN MICHEL BOTTLE

INTRICATE DESIGNS ON OUR TABLEWARE PORCELAIN CROCKERY BY HENRI What’s more summery than this range of HENRI tableware? Intricately decorated plates, bowls, teapots, cups, mugs and more are unique gift ideas for him, for her… or just for yourself.

Available from HENRI outlets, Pjazza Tigné & Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson). Contact: 2010 6306. www.henri.com.mt / facebook/henrimalta

SAN MICHEL’S NEW 33CL PACK This is one to pop in your handbag throughout the hot summer months. The easy-to-carry 33cl bottle is suited to our on-thego lifestyles and particularly important in summer when hydration is paramount. The bottle is ideal for lunchboxes, beach bags or even your handbag.

San Michel table water is bottled and is produced, marketed and distributed by Simonds Farsons Cisk plc, member of the Farsons Group

LOCAL RECIPES IN AN INTERNATIONAL COOK BOOK EAT IN MY KITCHEN: TO COOK, TO BAKE, TO EAT AND TO TREAT We love a good cook book and one where the German writer uses Malta as inspiration for some of her recipes is most definitely one we want on our shelves. Eat In My Kitchen: to Cook, to Bake, to Eat and to Treat by Meike Peters, features iconic Maltese recipes such as minestra, pudina, lemon ricotta cannoli, tuna and spinach pie and Gozitan pizzas all beautifully styled and photographed.

How could you resist this one?

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Trade Enquiries: Red October Co. Ltd Tel: 2147 0400 Email: info@redoct.net

RedOctoberMalta

TABLE-HOPPING As much as we love to cook at Gourmet Today, we also love to eat out. New restaurants are popping up all over the island, some that stay and some that don’t seem to make it. We take it upon ourselves to find out which ones are worth your while… a job we take very seriously. These are our favourite tables this season.

PHOTO: LVB, BY JAMES BIANCHI

A TASTE OF PERSIA In the past the only “foreign” food available was Chinese or Indian. Over the last few years, however, we have seen an influx of new restaurants offering flavours from all over the world.

Persia has been added to the list with the opening of Shafa. NICOLA COLLINS checks it out

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pleasant amble from the main road to Triq L-Imgiebah, Xemxija and we arrive at the Shafa restaurant. Not only a newly opened restaurant, but also the first Persian restaurant on the island.

It is owned by Trudi Picco and Fahrad Dargahi Shafa, who have lived in Malta for over ten years and whose dream came to fruition earlier this year when the Shafa’s doors opened for the first time, allowing customers from all over the island to enjoy a piece of Iran.

The restaurant is open from 10am until 10pm Monday to Sunday. During the day, Shafa serves lighter meals, snacks and sweets and the dinner menu commences at 6pm. What’s more, Shafa boasts an exclusive Tea Bar serving throughout their opening hours, with a choice of over 40 different loose teas from around the world carefully sourced by their very own tea expert Shawna. Coffees and soft drinks are also available. In keeping with tradition, no alcohol is served on the premises, but customers are welcome to bring their own.

Not only standing apart as being Malta’s first Persian Restaurant, Shafa’s menu incorporates a wide choice of vegan food.

Whether you’re a vegan, vegetarian or a meat lover, Shafa has the menu choices for you. Grasping with both hands the fact that people today are becoming more health conscious, environmentally conscious and ethical Trudi and Fahrad have ensured their menu incorporates both vegetarian and vegan food.

Working closely alongside their award-

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winning Head Chef Mohammad, the menu boasts a vegetarian and vegan dish alternative for every main course, a wonderful blend of complimenting ingredients Persian style. Fesenjoon replaces chicken to make an equally appealing dish of aubergine, pomegranate, crushed walnuts and herbs. A completely different taste comes in the form of gormeh sabzi a dish of fresh green herbs, turmeric, fenugreek, saffron, kidney beans and mushrooms blended with lemon.

Our meal at Shafa incorporated both vegan and meat dishes. A delectable selection put together by chef as recommended by staff member Bijan who was looking after my husband and I for the evening. From our table, we enjoy panoramic views across Xemxija, Selmun and not too distant sea views, although the view of food served to our table was unbeatable.

To start we enjoy, among others, starters of mast-o-khiar a yoghurt mixed with diced cucumber, mint and bread for dipping. This is followed by ash-reshte a divine thick soup of chickpeas, beans, noodles and fresh mixed herbs and accompanying salad combining radishes, rocket and mint. Our mains are a feast for the eyes, their kebabs are cooked traditionally – flat and on steel skewers accompanied with saffron rice zereshk, a steamed rice sprinkled with dried barberries, sliced pistachios and almonds.

Vegetarian kebabs are also on the menu.

Finally, a fresh Persian dessert prepared by the in-house baker and a delicate tea selected from the separate tea menu.

Takeaways are available and Shafa has a menu to suit all taste buds. Vegetarians, vegans and meat eaters across the island will certainly not be disappointed.

TABLE-HOPPING

Shafa Restaurant Triq L-imgiebah, Xemxija Hill, St Paul’s Bay Tel: 2157 8919

shafarestaurant

PHOTOGRAPHY: KEVIN GRECH

SUMMER DINING AT THE WATER’S EDGE Now that summer is in full swing, dining by the sea is an absolute must. But finding a spot that pays attention to good food rather than just selling their location at a premium is a tough job, AMY MICALLEF DECESARE is up to the task. She makes Naar one of her summer regulars

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fficially the summer is only a few days old but it seems like it’s been here for a while. In the stifling heat I made my way across the busy street, making a beeline for Naar, yearning for an ice-cold glass of water.

Just under two minutes later, I was in heaven; with an ice-cold cocktail in hand (what an upgrade), sitting contently in the beautiful terraced area, overlooking Balluta Bay. Just a few meters away was a live acoustic guitar player, completing the perfect picture that was my Saturday afternoon.

The overall positive vibe of the place was complemented, yet again, by the sublime food and friendly service. But I’m getting ahead of myself…

To make things interesting, my guest and I left our orders in the capable hands of Naar’s staff.

It was almost as though the waiter and I had some sort of telepathic connection because the second I took the last sip of my Long Island Iced Tea, he brought over a large dish of ‘oriental mussels’. I would usually turn my nose up at the very thought of mussels, but my guest wouldn’t take no for an answer and before I knew it, I was thrown head-first into a world I had always made my mission to avoid. I can’t believe I’m saying this… but they were delicious. Sautéed in an Asian blend of coconut milk, lemon grass and ginger, the overly ‘fishy’ taste that some of us aren’t too fond was virtually non-existent. They went down an absolute treat. What can I say? I’ve been converted.

First up: the sea bass fennel fillet. If like me, you’re exceptionally lazy and

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the last thing you feel like doing on a Saturday afternoon is cleaning a fish, don’t fret, the dish is hassle free. Cut and cleaned, perfectly seasoned and set on a deliciously simple fennel puree, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

Next: The Moroccan lamb tagine.

Read this part slowly… braised lamb shank, set on a delicious Moroccan spiced chickpea ragu. I know what you’re thinking, because I was thinking it too.

Lamb tagine is possibly the last thing you would expect to be on Naar’s menu. In spite of this, it was our personal favourite.

Besides it being absolutely divine in all its tender glory, the presentation was good fun too. Served in a traditional clay tagine pot, I cannot stress how many times we placed the lid on and off to get that perfect mid-motion shot. You know what they say – simple things please simple minds!

Just a little aside, both dishes were served with home made wedges and vegetables, both of which were utter perfection. You’d be surprised what a challenge it is to find really good side dishes as, if we’re being honest, too many restaurants tend to disregard the side dishes and only pay close attention to the mains. Naar throws this idea out of the window completely as they take every aspect into consideration, ensuring every bite is as satisfying as the last, whether you’re digging into a crispy potato wedge or the sea bass itself.

We’re not done yet! In case you’re yearning for a ‘light’ snack and believe you me, we were not, I would recommend the Southwestener. Pulled pork brisket, complete with all the extras, including

onion jam, Applewood cheese and baby spinach, served on a toasted ftira. I commend anyone who gets through this ftira and can still call it a ‘snack’.

Are you tired yet? At this point I was in physical pain but did I motion the waiter away when he brought over the desserts?

No I did not. Without an iota of shame, we proceeded to order the brownie, lemon tart and carrot and walnut cake, all of which were home made. The brownie was delectable and rich, ideal for the chocolate lovers, and slightly less ideal for the weight watchers. The lemon tart was the perfect addition to the meal – not too sweet, not too tart, the pastry with just the perfect amount of flake. My personal favourite, the carrot and walnut cake, brought back pleasant memories of my youth, when my mother would present me with freshly made carrot cake whilst I was studying. This only happened once but it’s a pleasant memory nonetheless.

And with a final bow, mission Naar was complete. Walking back out into the sunlight, I found myself mentally listing Naar as my new favourite restaurant.

Not only is the food second to none and inclusive of tons of vegan, lactose-free and gluten-free options, made fresh to order, it is the ideal place to unwind and spend your afternoon in the sun. Feel like a ‘light’ snack and a fresh dip in the open sea? Naar’s got you covered. More in the mood for a three-course meal followed by a walk along the Sliema front to burn those extra calories? Naar’s got you covered. Looking to plan a private party for 100 guests, complete with food and entertainment? Guess who’s got you covered? That’s right, Naar.

TABLE-HOPPING

NAAR RESTOBAR George Borg Oliver Street St Julian’s Tel: 21373412 Web: www.naarmalta.com Email: info@naarmalta.com

NaarMalta

WHERE PASSION COMES TO LIFE Steve Jobs said that “the only way to do great work is to love what you do”. Love what you do, do what you love, this has never been more true than in the case of LVB in Valletta. Two men, with a passion for superb ingredients, perfect flavour combinations and artistry in plating, provide an experience in fine dining without the fuss. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE falls in love with Valletta’s newest addition to the culinary scene

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t’s not often that I actively choose to face the traffic and potential parking issues head on and head down to Valletta, just for dinner. This time, however, I made the effort and made my way to LVB on a cool summer evening.

Looking back, I’d make the same decision every single day (if my bank account allowed it).

Located on Merchant street, one of the most sought after locations not only in Valletta but on the island, Toni Ventura, LVB’s owner, knows exactly what he’s doing.

I’m going to need you to take a seat and pay close attention to this one and even then, I fear a mere review of this restaurant may not even do it justice.

Move over Gordon Ramsay, there’s a new chef in town and he goes by the name of Ryan Gialanze.

After taking a seat in the small, cosy restaurant, my guest and I were presented with menus, featuring five or seven course meals. Within a split second we made the obvious decision: “The seven course meals, please”. To spice things up, I ordered the vegetarian version of the seven course menu, if even just 14 www.gourmettoday.recipes

for comparison’s sake. I’ll be honest; as keen carnivores, I expected that we’d both be somewhat unsatisfied by the vegetarian menu. I could not have been more mistaken. Hand on heart, upon returning to LVB, my greatest struggle will be whether to stick to my roots and order the Argentinian beef fillet, 48-hour cooked pork and langoustine thermidor or the hen’s egg miso soup, potato dauphinoise and beetroot variation. Who am I kidding? I’ll likely order them all again.

Starting with the amuse bouche, which varies according to the season and what’s on the market, we got through seven courses, without so much as a hiccup or pause. For every non-vegetarian dish, such as the sumptuous smoked brisket, there’s an equally delicious vegetarian dish; in this case the chargrilled pumpkin with chickpea home made dahl, yoghurt and radish. Not a single detail was missed, with stunning presentation and an undeniable passion for the art of cooking, I challenge even the most experienced ‘foodie’ to find a single fault in Ryan’s methods and techniques.

Just in case you were under the impression that LVB have only mastered the art of savoury cooking, you’d be mistaken. Moving onto the sweet section of the menu, Ryan brought round his version of a ‘palate cleanser’. Correct me if I’m wrong, but aren’t palate cleansers usually a couple teaspoons of exceedingly sweet lemon sorbet?

Not at LVB. As they did with the savoury section of the menu, they have completely revolutionized the idea of the humble palate cleanser, elevating it into a dessert in itself, one I wish I could order on a daily basis (and still have the dessert afterwards). Variations of strawberry parfait, strawberry granita and triple sec followed by a decadent chocolate mousse, warm olive oil cake and dark chocolate sorbet. Is your mouth watering yet? I know mine is.

In a hurry and on the hunt for a quick sandwich? Keep walking. On the hunt for a beautiful evening featuring unparalleled food, service and atmosphere? Book a table. I’ll even go so far as to say that if you’re even slightly disappointed, I’ll be happy to come down there myself and challenge you.

TABLE-HOPPING

LVB 65/66, Merchant Street, Valletta Tel: 79285845

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UNEXPECTED FLAVOURS AT TULLY’S FUSION Options for more than just burgers are limited in the south. This was until Tully’s Fusion came along. Marrying flavours from the Mediterranean with those from Asia and the Middle East, Tully’s is sure to provide diners with something they are not expecting. SASHA SHUMARA heads down there to check it out.

“Everyone told me because it’s the south, it’s not going to work. No, it’s different. It’s fusion. People won’t like it” But luckily, they were wrong. If you thought the south was just burgers, pasta and pizza, you need to take an evening to enjoy Tully’s Fusion — a healthy fusion concept switching things up and opening taste buds in Senglea.

I admit it; I did a little TripAdvisor scan to see if it would be worth the journey to Tully’s Fusion. With only glowing reviews about quality and price, with some going as far as claiming this was even the best restaurant in Malta, I knew I had to try Tully’s Fusion for myself.

Upcycled palette furniture and a striking black and red sign caught our attention immediately. Tucked unexpectedly along the Senglea waterfront looking out towards the majestic Fort St Angelo, we found Tully’s Fusion and Chef-Owner Jonathan Tully taking in a breath of fresh air before settling into the kitchen for the evening.

With an ever-changing menu, based on seasonal produce, I asked Chef Tully to surprise us. After inquiring about any food allergies, intolerances or choices, he hurried to the kitchen.

He would bring us a vegetarian mixed platter.

Now, I tend not to think twice about mixed platters and I’m sure most of us can relate — having nibbled from the same mixed platter repeatedly 16 www.gourmettoday.recipes

around the island. When Chef Tully brought out this beautiful mixed platter towering with fresh mixed fruits, cheeses, olives, hummus, baba ganoush, tzatziki, herbed flatbread, dolmas, dates, baked falafels and all this fresh goodness, I just don’t have words to give it justice.

The three of us chatted away in the medieval paradise that is Senglea and picked at our gorgeous platter, wishing it would never end.

Trained as a computer engineer,

Chef Jonathan Tully’s love of food has kept taking him back to the kitchen over the last 16 years from small restaurants to Corinthia’s Rickshaw Restaurant to privately serving high profile clients around the world. His diverse upbringing and life abroad has gifted Tully with the imagination to try new things in the kitchen and keep creating, picking up Asian, Arabic and Mediterranean influences along the way and further mastering the art of fusion cuisine.

A year and a half ago, family-run Tully’s Fusion was born in Senglea where guests can enjoy fresh, locally sourced ingredients in genuine dishes at incredibly reasonable prices.

We couldn’t go home without trying a main and the day’s catch was line caught tuna. Jonathan Tully whipped up some Asian fusion magic with his take on Mediterranean spaghetti aioli, expertly marrying the two cuisines.

From first glance, the dish appeared to be a traditional spaghetti aioli complimented with fresh tuna chunks, but after a few bites, I started to taste this subtle freshness and zest.

“What am I tasting?” I asked.

“I added mint, basil and lemon zest right at the end to give the traditional aioli an Asian twist. You have to touch people through their stomachs. Why not make a twist? People are bored of the same recipes again and again.”

For those wanting to master the art of fusion for themselves, Tully’s Fusion offers cooking classes and team building.

TABLE-HOPPING

Tully’s Fusion 64, Triq Dingli Cornelio Senglea Tel: 99627301

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MAGICAL SUMMER SUNSETS ON THE ROOFTOP Summer is a magical time when the day extends until dinner time. The best way to enjoy the turn of day into night is sitting on the rooftop of Palazzo Castelletti, drink in hand, mulling over the menu. SASHA SHUMARA gets a feel for Maltese summers high up above the village of Rabat

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s the sun sets, the old limestone buildings of Rabat are bathed in magic-hour light, glowing orange.

A flock of birds sweeps the sky and Rabat’s labyrinth of streets below us are at peace. With a massive jug of berry sangria filled to the brim with fresh fruits, I am at peace too. Summer is finally here.

After a long day or week of work there’s nothing more beautiful than enjoying a summer evening with your favourite people at Palazzo Castelletti’s RedWhite Roof Top restaurant in Rabat.

Taking in the ambiance, I notice the various groups dining at RedWhite Roof Top for the evening. An old group of friends reunites with laughter at the neighbouring table and tucked along the rooftop’s edge, a young couple romantically dines holding hands across the table. A family of four enjoys dinner

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in style and two elderly ladies meet near the lift in a warm embrace. RedWhite Roof Top is a place to celebrate the special moments in life or make a new one.

It comes to no surprise that the beautifully restored Palazzo Castelletti, home to three restaurants – San Andrea, RedWhite and Trois, is one of Malta’s premier venues for celebrating weddings, hen’s parties, birthday parties and the likes.

If the setting weren’t enough to keep us coming back for more, the menu is *insert cliché Italian chef kiss*. RedWhite Roof Top’s exquisite menu paired with down-to-earth staff and relaxing seating makes for a fine dining experience in familial comfort. It’s a place where you feel like the king or queen of your own palazzo and that is truly a feeling to be

savoured.

The oriental mussels as a starter are exquisite, cooked in a broth of coconut milk with a Thai influenced blend of lemon grass, ginger, coriander and chili.

My guest enjoys deep-fried crispy mushrooms served with in house pickled vegetables and delectably savory sundried tomato mayonnaise as a dipping sauce. Definitely comfort food but at the same time not heavy either. I continue with the perfect compliment to my starter: char grilled sea bass served on a bed of potato croquettes and dressed with this rich curry coconut mussel cream.

With very unique and appetising vegetarian options that can be hard to come by in Malta, my guest goes vegetarian for the night with lunette pasta filled with ricotta, almonds and broccoli, tossed in cherry tomatoes and Parmesan cream sauce.

The dishes were absolutely delightful.

As day turns to night, the ambient lighting is slowly turned on. Not wanting our dinner to end, we finish the night with dessert – tiramisu and strawberry cheesecake and of course a few espressos. We cosy up in blankets under the open night sky, reminisce about the oriental mussels and start to plan our next evening at RedWhite Roof Top.

TABLE-HOPPING

RedWhite 62, Palazzo Castelletti, St Paul’s Street, Rabat Tel: 21452562 Web: www.palazzocastelletti.com

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YET ANOTHER HIDDEN GEM AMY MICALLEF DECESARE has been busy trying out some new restaurants to see which ones will stick. She is truly delighted by this find of fine dining without the fuss combined with smoother-than-silk jazz tunes.

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ituated a stone’s throw away from the hustle and bustle of Spinola Bay, Jazz Cave is a truly delightful restaurant, an utter treat for all the senses.

The mere act of walking down the flight of stairs into the restaurant conjures up feelings of excitement and for my guest, nostalgia. I can’t help but feel that I’m in for something great.

It’s been said that Jazz Cave mirrors a style that was widely used and greatly loved during the 60’s and 70’s. Seeing as I hadn’t yet been conceived during this era, I was eager to see for myself.

We couldn’t help but be impressed by the overall ambiance of the restaurant.

Sleek décor, a spacious dining area, complemented perfectly by the large grand piano in the centre of the room, all contributing to the overall sense of elegance but without the stuffy, posh feeling generally associated with fine dining restaurants.

After resisting the urge to run to the piano like an overgrown child, we made our way to our table. Within seconds we were seated, provided with a glass of Prosecco (no complaints here!) and tablets, upon which the menus were installed.

For the less tech-savvy of us, tangible menus were also provided. We, however, were having too much fun to order in the ‘traditional’ way.

We perused the menu, which is a fusion of Mediterranean and local cuisine, offering the likes of quinoa Greek salad, Moroccan prawns and corn-fed baby chicken… all of which we ordered.

I’ve come to realise, and I’m sure you have too, that when sitting at table, we Maltese tend to be rather enthusiastic in 20 www.gourmettoday.recipes

the way we express ourselves. We’re not the most timid of people, especially when surrounded by friends. Have you ever noticed, however, that once in a while, a delicious meal has the overwhelming power to silence that same group of people in a matter of seconds? That’s exactly what happened here. Not a word was exchanged between my guest and I as we dug into the delectable dishes, unable to communicate by any other means than facial expression.

Embracing every scrumptious bite, we paused only to nod at each other approvingly.

For those who would rather steer clear of dishes like corn-fed baby chicken, both vegetarian and vegan menus are to be launched in the near future and a brand spanking new summer menu is to be launched by 1 July, ensuring that there’s something for absolutely everyone and trust me, there is.

If you’re in the mood for the complete Jazz Cave experience (which I strongly recommend), you can opt for either the Diamond menu, which includes a starter, main, dessert, bottle of wine, water and coffee, the Golden menu, including everything but the coffee and the bottle of wine being replaced with a half bottle, or for those in more of a hurry, the Silver menu, which includes a main course and a glass of wine to wash it down. Whichever one you go for, make sure you’re booked for 8:30pm, ensuring you don’t miss a second of the live jazz music, which takes place every day between Tuesday and Sunday.

If you’re female, you’re in luck. Tuesday is ladies’ night, which means you’re entitled to a sizeable discount and a night

of easy-listening, smoother-than-silk jazz entertainment. Sorry, guys!

If happy hour is more your scene, guess who’s more than happy to host you? Jazz Cave yet again. Starting at 7 till 10pm on Sundays, it’s a buy one get one free kind of deal. What more could you possibly want? Just in case your boss doesn’t take too kindly to you calling in sick on Monday morning, I would recommend you order a platter of tasty finger food to go alongside your mojito (or two).

If you’re currently running to your car to head right over to Jazz Cave, take a second to head back inside and grab a copy of Gourmet Magazine. If you present it to the waiting staff when ordering, you’ll get a discount of 15% on your meal.

Just a recap: Service? Sublime. Food?

Divine. Atmosphere? Exciting and eclectic.

I, for one, would be concerned if you weren’t fitting Jazz Cave into your schedule this weekend.

TABLE-HOPPING

Jazz Cave Restaurant Hotel Juliani Spinola Bay, St Julian’s Web: www.jazzcaverestaurant.com

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EXQUISITE CULINARY COMBINATIONS AT L’ ARTIGLIO Perhaps the city with most promising new restaurants is Valletta. But what distinguishes one from another? What makes one individual restaurant worth your lunch money?

NICOLA COLLINS heads down to the newly opened L’ Artiglio Ristorante to see what the buzz is all about

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short detour from the hustle and bustle of the popular Republica Street onto Melita Street in Valletta, among the beautifully traditional baroque buildings, is the L’ Artiglio Ristorante. Newly opened in January.

Open for lighter lunches from midday until 2.30pm and evening meals from 7pm until 10.30pm, L’ Artiglio welcomes passers-by and bookings alike, however, booking is recommended where possible, particularly at the weekend.

Greeted by restaurant manager Stefano Borg Olivier and shown to my table I immediately start to understand why this restaurant stands out from other Mediterranean ones. They truly create a dining experience with a difference.

With over 10 years’ experience, Stefano heads a young and enthusiastic front of house team who show an understandable pride in their work.

A spotless environment with an open kitchen where diners can enjoy the view of the chefs preparing meals and adding that final artistic touch before dishes are served to the table.

Introduced to their eclectic menu of the day I see that each dish is based on local foods presently in season. It is here learnt why each day a different menu is presented to customers. The very core of their menu ensures ultimate freshness 22 www.gourmettoday.recipes

and great taste combinations. I enjoy a serving of traditional bigilla with Maltese bread while I peruse the menu with staff on hand to explain to me any of the dishes.

It was a fantastic opportunity to meet head chef Janine Camilleri. We chat about each dish and I ask for any recommendations. Janine’s response, in one sentence, showed the passion put into every dish created. “If there was something I wouldn’t recommend, it wouldn’t be on the menu”. Janine’s first job in the catering industry was at the tender age of 16, where she worked as a waitress. She later graduated in accounts but knew her passion always lay in food and eventually made the switch back despite advice to the contrary. Her chef team are also young, Janine welcomes ideas and together they create, try, adapt and produce dishes based on

complimentary tastes, fresh ingredients, textures and attention to detail.

Menu choices made, I am treated to a coconut milk and prawn bisque mousse amuse bouche, delicately setting my palate for the courses to follow. I choose a starter of baked Camembert, flavoured with rosemary and garlic, topped with delectable onion relish and served with toasted bite-sized Maltese bread, shortly followed by tasters of their char-grilled octopus, acquerello rice, nero di sepia and saffron aioli and pea soup topped with crispy ham hock, comprising vibrant colours of black, green and yellow between them.

Next up was a crudité, a trio of tartare – tuna and avocado, salmon and wakame, seabass and tobiko, served with soy and citrus dressings. Deliciously mingled flavours, colours and textures including the gentle popping sensation of the tobiko. I enjoy a main of Barbary duck breast with peach and mint puree and grilled fennel.

I decline dessert. Each one is as tempting as the other courses, however I can’t possibly manage another bite.

Luckily I know I will be returning to L’ Artiglio and leaving space to try their Earl Grey crème brûlée will certainly be on my ‘to do’ list.

TABLE-HOPPING

L’Artiglio Ristorante 62 Melita Street Valletta Tel: 2247 6601 Web: www.lartiglio.com.mt Email: info@lartiglio.com.mt

L’Artiglio Ristorante

FEEL AT HOME WHEN DINING OUT

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ining at Rossini Cibo e Vino is like dining with family, if your mum (or dad) was an artist in the kitchen, putting love and attention into each and every dish. Italian chef patron, Marco Rossini and his wife Annalisa are the heart and soul behind the Rossini name, offering friendly service that is the talk of the town on TripAdvisor.

Marco hails from Italy and has a variety of experience under his belt. He has worked in a number of five-star hotels in Italy as well as at restaurants in Aspen, Colorado, USA and Kazan, the capital of the republic of Tatarstan in Russia. He recently decided to make the move to Malta and open his own restaurant on our shores.

The idea behind Rossini Cibo e Vino is to for patrons to enjoy a quiet yet friendly atmosphere while dining on the freshest dishes all prepared by Rossini himself.

The menu is extensive and includes meat dishes as well as fish, homemade pasta and homemade ice creams and desserts and

there are plenty of vegetarian options too.

They also have a wine list that matches their food menu, with wines from all parts of the world and they even have some vegan wines.

Whether you want to dine in under the stars, in their beautiful garden, or indoors, Rossini Cibo e Vino has got you covered.

Rossini Cibo e Vino 5A, Triq il-Knisja, St Julian’s.

Tel: 77028000

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PUGLIA COMES TO THE MANDRAGGIO

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izza has always been a go-to meal when we are looking for a little indulgence. With so many pizzerias on the island – some better than others – it has become increasingly difficult to pick a place that is worthy of those extra calories.

A quick visit to TripAdvisor, and you know for sure that Mandraggio is going to be worth your while. A number of glowing reviews grace their page along with a huge variety of images of what they are serving.

What they are offering is not just pizza but a taste of Puglia, including pasta dishes as well as fish and meat dishes. And what it is that links all of these together? They only use the freshest, seasonal ingredients, just like they would in the southern Italian region and the pasta they serve is either homemade or pasta di Gragnano. Linguine with vongole, nero di sepia, spaghetti ricci, zuppa di cozze and homemade tiramisu are just some of the dishes you can expect at Mandraggio.

Owner Giuseppe Matarrelli, himself from Taranto in Puglia, is a nutritionist and believes that good food, that is also good

for your body, has to be made from scratch.

This is why they make their own pasta and pizza dough as well as baking their own bread, including the Puglia specialty pucce salentine.

Like their food the wine list is also places importance on the Puglia region, with some wines like Primitivo di Manduria, wines from Leporano and Negramaro del Salento among others.

The service here is as friendly as you could expect with the owners and waiting staff treating you like part of the family, helping you with your choices and offering recommendations. Sit inside or out, take

your children or your girlfriend, have lunch or dinner, eat in or take away, whatever you fancy, Mandraggio will not disappoint.

Don’t expect fine dining here, what you can expect are generous portions of something your Italian grandmother would make, if you had one. And just like visiting grandma, you will feel obliged to return time and time again.

Mandraggio Misrah Mattia Preti Valletta Tel: 79024143 mandraggio www.gourmettoday.recipes 25

THE HOLIDAY FEELS IN GOZO As soon as you get off the ferry in Mgarr, Gozo, you immediately slip into holiday mode.

Drive right on to Marsalforn and settle at a table at Otters Bistro and you slip right into that holiday feeling – cocktails, excellent food, the views of the sparkling Med. SASHA SHUMARA takes a mid-week holiday

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arsalforn is a seaside village we are quickly falling in love with; if only it were somehow closer to home, we would surely be eating seaside at Otters Bistro every weekend. Sitting on the edge of the bay, Otters has one of the most stunning views of Marsalforn Bay and a menu that is to die for.

The cuisine at Otters relies on seasonal and fresh ingredients and is constantly varying. We couldn’t wait to see what was on the menu.

We settle in for a mojito or two. It’s a hot summer day and under Otters’ big umbrellas, sitting just metres away from the glistening turquoise sea, there is nowhere we would rather be.

For starters, we both enjoy the duck salad with chocolate sauce. With duck, the fat can be a real deal-breaker but with the touch of my fork, the fat slides right off. Perfection. I appreciate that the chocolate sauce comes served on the side as I drizzle just the right amount of chocolate balsamic sauce on my salad without overpowering the taste of the duck.

Two mojitos quickly becomes three.

Today would be a day of pure gluttony.

We thought the duck was the highlight 26 www.gourmettoday.recipes

of the day and then our handsome Italian server (can this get any better?) brings our mains – whole grilled calamari stuffed with crabmeat. We can taste the freshness of the seafood from the calamari to the tender crabmeat stuffing inside. The crabmeat is incredibly sweet and delicate yet rich, complimented with olive oil and herbs.

I suspected we would be having seafood at Otters, but this, this is seafood heaven.

Our cheery waitress comes over to see if we can handle another main, makes some jokes and leaves us laughing as we continue main number one. To be honest, with the single starter and main, we are both full but we can’t resist the temptation. Not today.

The group of ladies next to us feasts on huge bowls of mussels with the largest king prawns I’ve seen in awhile. “We’re coming back here tomorrow?!” one of the ladies semi-asks to her group of friends.

For main number two, because we can’t get enough, we try the salmon parcel with prawns. The salmon parcel is partially surrounded with puff pastry giving it this crispy, flaky outside and doughy inside. Paired with a creamy,

tomato-based, fish sauce and fresh apricot slices, we completely clean our plates.

“How often are we in Gozo? Let’s share one more?” I ask my guest. She feels the same and we decide to share the grilled beef tagliata. I’ll tell you right now, if you love steak, you will not be disappointed.

Cooked medium, not very bloody, crispy on the outside and tender inside, the beef tagliata is just as a good steak should be – sublime.

I wish I could say we stomached dessert but it was not possible and I would be very worried if it were. We plan on making Otters our go-to Gozo restaurant this summer. If we didn’t have to get back so quickly - it was a weekday afterall - we would have loved to spend a few hours sitting in a deck chair, taking regular dips in the cool blue seas, and sipping on another couple of cocktails, but alas duty called and we headed back.

Just to spend a few hours dining at Otters Bistro in beautiful Marsalforn Bay is well worth a trip to our sister island and one we will be making a little more regularly.

Otters also cater for weddings, staff parties and private events so, with any luck, we’ll be invited there again soon!

TABLE-HOPPING

Otters Bistro and Lounge Marsalforn Gozo Tel: 21556606

OttersBistroAndLounge

MAKING THE MOST OF THE MEDITERRANEAN

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amily values, warmth, attention and detail are just a few ingredients that reflect L’Aragosta’s food and service.

Passionately serving original Mediterranean cuisine for all palates including vegetarians and those with food intolerances. For those who are gluten intolerant, you can find gluten-free pasta, pizza bases and bread at L’Aragosta.

Most ingredients at L’Aragosta’s are chosen daily from the fresh local market and other specialized ingredients from overseas. All meat and fish dishes are sourced from

local and foreign suppliers according to availabilities and are served with roasted potatoes and grilled seasonal vegetables or garden salad and chips.

The wine menu is extensive with the highest quality local and foreign supplies on the market, chosen to compliment the various daily fresh dishes.

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, relax in the seaside seating and feel a home-away-from-home experience at L’Aragosta.

L’Aragosta is open daily from 10am to 12am.

L’Aragosta Al Fresco Marsalforn, Gozo 2155 4104 10am- 12am

www.gourmettoday.recipes 29 aragostamaltagozo

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PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL TRAPANI GALEA FERIOL

THE PERFECTIONISM THAT LED TO MICHELIN STARS

I I H S I I R O N I H S O Y CHEF

The restaurant scene isn London is hard to beat. With influences from all over the globe, this is where some of the very best chefs travel to set up shop. Michelin-starred chef Yoshinori Ishii meets up with B-BICHE to tell her what it takes to have your restaurant decorated with these coveted stars Umu is considered to be the very best Japanese restaurant in London and amongst the best in Europe. Despite the fact that sushi restaurants hardly ever achieve Michelin stars, Umu, situated in Mayfair, has two. The stars were mostly down to the excellence and perfectionist approach of top, superstar chef, Yoshinori Ishii.

Apart from being one of the leading Kaiseki chefs, Ishii also gained experience at some of the very best restaurants in the world, including Kitcho in Kyoto, considered one of the ultimate experiences. He then moved to NYC, to work with celebrity chef Morimoto, before taking London by storm. We caught up with this master in an attempt to understand what makes him strive for perfection What is the exact meaning of the greeting that we received on entering Umu? Basically, “Ashira shy ma zay”, is a typical welcome that is used a lot back home in Japan. There, however, its just the person greeting you that says it, whilst here in Europe, it has become trendy for everyone, from waiters, right up to the head chef, to shout it out. This is even more common in Asian fusion restaurants, and not just purely sushi ones. They believe that shouting it adds to the experience, even though it seems to surprise some customers.

You are a very prominent Kaiseki chef.

Can you explain to us what makes this so unique?

This is a 400-year-old tradition and technique derived from green tea. Not tea as we know it today, but the masters, used it in its pure form, or as is now known, matcha. This was the most common tea, and is extremely strong in its natural form, like an espresso. Europeans often eat

something sweet before a strong coffee. Us Japanese, do the same, before our green tea. Kaiseki is that sweet. It was originally chestnuts which were very seasonal, and were used to line the stomach. As generations passed, this became a delicacy and approximately 80 to 100 years ago, an entire new cuisine was created based on this kaiseki. It started in one restaurant but spread very quickly throughout the country amongst high-end restaurants. I myself learnt it though masters in Japan and now I’m trying to promote it here in London.

How do Tokyo and London compare on the restaurant scene?

I have just returned from 10 days back home in Japan, where I dedicated my trip to studying from masters. I spent the entire time at a three-Michelin-star restaurant, having lunch and dinner, day after day, observing and learning all the differences and techniques compared to my own. What I have learnt is that Japan, especially Tokyo and Kyoto, are at least one level above anything in Europe.

No comparison really so I feel it is my responsibility to raise the level here in London and especially at Umu. What makes Japan so unique compared

to Europe, is that everything in Japan is based on perfection and punctuality. For example, take a train, it would never arrive even a minute late. If it was late, it would make headlines in the news, with it being such a rarity.

Another example is, when ordering live fish. In Japan, I often order from Kyushu island, and if I want, for example, red snapper delivered from there to Tokyo, I can call, and it will be delivered by the next morning. Alive. Usually in around 12 hours. It’s never late, there’s never a mistake. Perfection every time.

Guaranteed. Those standards are almost impossible to match in Europe. Standards are not only kept or achieved in the kitchen, but numerous other things that are not in the chef’s control.

We know that you are an avid fisherman.

When fishing, do you only think about having fun or are you thinking up new recipes?

Definitely a combination of the two.

When I head out fishing as a sport, I go specifically for only one type of fish - such as salmon. If I’m going for salmon, I’m not interested in any other type of fish, so I use the perfect rod, the perfect line, and the perfect bait, to catch that salmon. That

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a lot more practice in. Every weekend, I lock myself away and enjoy this new hobby. I even dug my own clay recently!

The negative side to this hobby, is that my apartment has lots of space for pottery, and looks like a proper workshop, however, there is now no space to lay down and relax!

way, I’m only thinking about nature and salmon. To me, that is sport fishing.

On the other hand, I sometimes take fisherman friend’s boats out, in Cornwall or Portugal, and we head out just for fun.

I show them the correct way to handle the fish, since we plan on eating our catch.

Once I know what we are catching, my mind is racing and planning the meals and recipes ahead, often discovering and creating new dishes along the way.

We know you cook and grill using infra red and fanning, can you please explain this?

Not many restaurants use charcoal here in Europe, and the way it is used to cook in Japan is completely different. The European way is simply add the charcoal to the grill, and keep grilling. Back home, we try to control the light and the heat.

The more air you give the charcoal, the redder it gets and therefore hotter. The red light it gives off, is better for cooking fish from the inside. At the same time, we need to control the cooking of the outside of the fish, so that is when we fan the heat for maximum control and sending the air in the direction we need, for perfection.

By fanning, the heat isn’t directly hitting

the fish. We have mastered the proper way of fanning, and directing both the heat and the light, that the grill gives off. This is ideal for searing, when you need very intense heat for a very short period of time. At this point we fan very, very fast and sear for maybe 20 seconds.

What makes Umu unique?

This technique, I believe, is unique to Umu, as far as Europe goes. Outside Umu, I have only heard of this in Japan, and even back home, not many chefs actually know how to use this type of cooking.

Something else that makes Umu unique is the way the fish is handled, and delivered to the restaurant. We use overnight shipping that takes no longer than 15 hours to get here or we send the fish back.

That way every morning we receive the freshest possible fish for the day ahead.

Many fishermen from cold countries, including England, don’t see the need to add ice. We insist on it, and we refuse anything that is not 100% perfect.

Anything other than perfection can be a big problem for me, later on in the kitchen.

The fisherman would not see the difference between fresh and perfect, whilst I definitely would. For this reason, I don’t use fish suppliers anymore, and only buy from a few, very trusted fishermen. I can guarantee you that we use the absolute best fish in England.

Do you have any other hobbies?

Pottery! All the plates and bowls in the restaurant, I have handmade myself, as I am recently getting

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Following all your travels and experiences, what is next for you? Will you be staying in London for a while?

Even though Umu probably has the best fish in Europe, I still want to improve. Every time I dine in Japan, I realise I can’t relax, and feel the need to keep pushing. It makes me aware of how behind Europe is, and I have so much more work to do. So my need to discover more of everything never stops. It’s not only about the fish and the cooking, but also the local herbs, seasonal vegetables, meats, everything. Every area can be improved on. Just like with my pottery, which started seven years ago, you never stop learning.

Actually, thinking about it - chef pauses and smiles - pottery is also at a much higher standard in Japan! Slowly slowly, I would love to introduce all types of Japanese cultures to Europe, whilst at the same time, becoming more skilled myself.

As long as I think London is behind, I will always think there is potential.

Hopefully, I am the one that can help fulfil this potential.

B-biche is a Dutch fashion writer and stylist based in Malta. Want to see more? Check out her blog at www.b-biche.com

Umu 14-16 Burton Pl, Mayfair, London. W1J6LX Tel: +442074998881 Web: umurestaurant.com

UmuLondon

EASY PEASY JAPANESEY When we think of Japanese food, our minds immediately go to sushi, however Japanese food is so much more and not necessarily as difficult to make. Adding a few staple Japanese products to your pantry (most have a shelf life of forever) means that you can easily put a Japanese twist on some basic recipes. The larger supermarkets supply some products, like short grain rice, sesame oil and rice wine vinegar, however more specialised ingredients like bonito flakes, kombu and fresh miso paste will have to be sourced from specialist Asian food stores.

BONITO FLAKES What is it?

Dried, fermented and smoked tuna Used for: Dashi (Japanese broth) used for miso soup; onigiri (balls or triangles of rice, filled with something salty and wrapped in nori) filling; ponzu sauce (soy and citrus based sauce) Also known as: katsobushi

MISO PASTE What is it?

A mixture of soy beans, rice or barley that has been fermented with salt, water and fungus. Fresh miso paste is nothing like the instant, powder kind you find in the supermarkets.

There are three varieties of miso; white, red and mixed. White miso, which is golden in colour, is the mildest variety as the fermentation process is fairly short. Red miso undergoes longer fermentation giving it a saltier, more pungent flavour. Mixed miso is a combination of the two.

Used for: White miso is great for salad dressings and light sauces. Red miso is great for hearty sauces and soups that that can stand up to its bold flavour. Miso works well as a rub for both fish and meat, can be used in a glaze or as a sauce thickener.

KOMBU What is it?

Known as the king of seaweed in Japanese cultures as it is the only seaweed with which you can make dashi (clear stock, which is the base for many Japanese dishes). It is the source of the umami taste of dashi.

Used for: Dashi Also known as: dasima or haidai

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Used to make miso, soups, sauces and marinades, this stock is the foundation of Japanese cooking

Dashi Makes 8 cups Ingredients • 8 cups drinking water • 3 dried shitake mushrooms • 1 sheet kombu • 50g bonito flakes

Method 1. In a saucepan add the mushrooms to the water and allow to stand for 1 hour.

2. Add the kombu and bring to the boil.

3. Remove from the heat and add the bonito flakes.

4. Let steep for 10 mins and then pour the dashi through a fine sieve into a bowl.

5. The dashi will keep in an air-tight container in the fridge for up to a week.

Hot soba noodles with grilled chicken Serves 4 Ingredients • 4 boneless chicken thighs, skin on • 1 cup soy sauce • 3 tbsp mirin • 3 tbsp sugar • 8 cups Dashi stock (see recipe) • 6-inch piece ginger • 200g soba noodles • 2 cups baby spinach • 2 spring onions • Pig skin, for crackling Soy marinated eggs • 2 soft boiled eggs • 1 cup soy • 1 star anise • 1 tbsp mirin • 3 slices ginger Method 1. Place the soft boiled eggs in a zip-lock bag and add the soy, mirin, star anise and ginger. Place in the fridge for 6 hours and then drain.

2. To make the crackling, place the skin on a baking sheet and sprinkle with sea salt.

3. Place in a hot oven for approx 40 mins until golden and crispy.

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In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, mirin and sugar.

Bring to the boil and cook until the sugar dissolves (2 – 3 mis) allow to cool and set aside. Reserve ¾ cup for the soup and the remaining to baste the chicken.

Heat the grill and on a foil-lined baking sheet, arrange the chicken, skin-side down on top, score the meat and season with salt and pepper.

Grill the meat, basting with the reserved soy, mirin and sugar mixture every 4 mins until the chicken is cooked through, approx. 16 mins.

Remove from the heat and allow to rest for 5 mins before slicing into thick slices.

In a large saucepan combine the soy mixture with the dashi stock.

Using a microplane, grate the ginger into a small bowl and using a sieve, drain as much liquid as possible out of the ginger. Add 2 tbsp ginger juice to the stock.

Bring the soup to the boil over medium heat.

In a large pot of boiling water, boil the noodles until al dente, approx. 3 mins. Remove using tongs and run under cold water.

Place the noodles into 4 bowls, top with fresh baby spinach and ladle the stock into the bowls.

Top with the chicken slices, half the soy marinated eggs, spring onions and crackling and serve immediately.

www.gourmettoday.recipes 35 PHOTOGRAPHY: RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR

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Soba noodle salad with lemon miso vinaigrette Serves 4 Ingredients • ½ small red lettuce, leaves separated • Approx. 24 basil leaves • 10 cherry tomatoes • 2 carrots, thinly sliced, lengthwise • ½ cucumber, sliced • ½ red chilli, sliced, seeds removed • 1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted • 225g soba noodles Lemon, miso vinaigrette • 1/3 cup olive oil • 1 ½ lemons, juice only • 1 tbsp white miso paste • 2 tsp sesame oil • ½ tsp sugar • 1-inch piece ginger, finely grated • Salt and pepper

Method 1. Start by making the vinaigrette by placing all of the ingredients into a mixing bowl and whisking until the mixture emulsifies. Set aside.

2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the red lettuce leaves with the basil, tomatoes, carrots, cucumber and chilli.

3. Boil the noodles in salted water until al dente, approx. 3 mins.

4. Drain the noodles and place into serving plates.

5. Top with the veggie mixture.

6. Drizzle with miso dressing and top with toasted sesame seeds.

Ginger chicken meatballs with a sweet, salty glaze Ingredients • 1 cup soy sauce • 1 cup mirin • ¼ cup sugar • 2 tbsp mizuame • 500g chicken, minced • 1 – 2 inch piece ginger • 3 spring onions • Salt and pepper

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Method 1. To make the glaze, place the soy sauce, mirin and sugar into a saucepan and bring to the boil.

2. Allow to simmer until the mixture has reduced by about a third.

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Add the mizuame and stir until dissolved. Remove from the heat.

In a mixing bowl add the ginger to the ground chicken and season with salt and pepper.

Chop the white part and some of the green part of the scallions and add most of them to the chicken mixture, reserving a few to garnish.

Mix well and with wet hands, form oval balls and place on a foil lined baking tray that has been greased.

Brush the chicken balls with the glaze and place under a hot grill for approx. 8 mins until the chicken is cooked through, basting every 2 mins.

Serve with white rice and the remaining glaze on the side.

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This salad is great wi th salmon, beef or on its own as a light snack

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Japanese tea leaf salad on sticky rice Ingredients • 2 tbsp gyokuro or green tea leaves • 1 tsp rice vinegar • 1 tsp soy sauce • ¼ sesame oil • Short grain rice • Sesame seeds, to garnish

Method 1. Boil the short grain rice in salted water.

2. Steep the tea leaves in boiling water for 1 – 2 mins.

3. Drain (reserving the tea to drink) and steep again for 30 seconds and drain again.

4. Place the tea leaves in a mixing bowl and add the rice vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil and mix well.

5. Place the tea leaves on top of the rice and garnish with sesame seeds.

Baked sweet potato with miso butter Ingredients • 2 sweet potatoes • Olive oil • ¼ cup chives, finely chopped Miso butter • 2 tbsp butter • 1 ½ tbsp miso paste • 1 tbsp lemon juice

Method 1. Rub the sweet potatoes in a little olive oil and bake in a pre-heated oven at 200C for approx 1 hour.

2. To make the miso butter, place all the ingredients in a food processor and blitz until smooth.

3. When the potatoes are ready and still hot, slice in half and smother with miso butter.

4. Sprinkle with chopped chives and serve.

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Is your kitchen on 2017's top kitchen trends Empty? Cluttered? Filled with flowers? What you put on your kitchen top says a lot about you. Design of the kitchen can be a signature just the same. Are you the sort of person that uses the kitchen to make tea and toast? Or is every shelf occupied by something that is pickling slowly over time or preserved from last season’s harvest?

Are you going for a more trendy look? Or are you much more down with the classics? The choice of kitchens now available in Malta allows you truly express your individuality. So what’s hot right now? These are some of the top kitchen trends of the moment Open shelving

Luxe metallics

We are seeing a trend toward using open shelving as a practical solution for the kitchen space, rather than simply for display.

Open shelving personalises the space, making it feel lived in and warm, while keeping the kitchen functional and easy to use.

While silver, chrome and stainless steel are three commonly used in the kitchen, this year’s warmer metals, like copper, raw steel and bronze are being used. This texture of metallics provides a stunning accent to most palette choices giving the kitchen a warm, old school or industrial mix.

Adding wallpaper, a contrast wall or an otherwise simple feature wall, like subway tiles, exposed brick or a splash back, will keep the kitchen looking chic and classy.

Modern married with a traditional or industrial style This trend is affecting everything from cabinet design to colours, materials to textures. We are really mixing it up.

Flat-panel cabinet doors are being replaced with classic door profiles and handles are more old school and raw.

Materials are being mixed, such as raw steel with wood, and wood with marble.

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Which top?

Whether you’re remodelling your kitchen, starting from scratch or just trying to give your old kitchen a face lift, the counter top plays a big part in how your kitchen looks. Today the options are endless. Some are better at some things and others are better at others. So how do you choose? These are the pros and cons of some popular kitchen tops.

Marble What looks more chic than a marble counter top?

I’ll tell you what. Absolutely nothing. Whether you go for a modern kitchen or a more traditional one, a marble countertop will add a bit of glamour to your home.

Pros: Like we said, elegance. Stands up well to heat. Because it remains cool, it is particularly suitable for baking, especially in the Maltese summers.

Cons: It is very porous and therefore very susceptible to stains. It also has a tendency to crack and chip.

Solid surfaces Made from acrylic and polyester, this was first sold under the brand name Corian, though today it is made by a variety of manufacturers. It has become popular for its seamless nature and practical

functions.

Pros: Because it is non-porous it is resistant to stains and is virtually maintenance free. Scratches and cracks can be sanded out. Wide variety of colours available. Seamless installation means there is no space for dirt and bacteria to collect.

Cons: Has an artificial look and feel. Doesn’t cope well with hot pans and sharp knives.

Quartz Made from resin and quartz chips tinted with colour this is a good compromise between the beauty of stone and the easy care of solid surfacing.

Pros: Same advantages as solid surfaces in the way of maintenance whilst having the greater range of colours than natural stone.

Cons: May have an engineered look and feel, though less than solid surfaces. Relatively pricey but may be a worthwhile investment.

Stainless steel Walk into an industrial kitchen and this is the only surface you are likely to see. These surfaces have slipped into vogue over the last few years as kitchen trends dictate more of a mixture between traditional kitchens and industrial ones.

Pros: Virtually indestructible. Resists heat and bacteria.

Cons: Good luck keeping fingerprints off it! It also has a tendency to dent. Expensive due to custom fabrication.

Rovere Slavonia by Joinwell Wooden tops look great in the kitchen but they require plenty of upkeep.

Joinwell have the solution with these high-pressure laminate tops that are incased in a wooden board. This ensures better hygiene as well as being resistant to water and flames. This is a hard-wearing kitchen top that is resistant to scratches and dents.

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p?

KRION by Satariano This counter top is warm to the touch and similar to natural stone with added modern benefits. KRION does not have any pores, is anti-bacterial without the need for additives, hard-wearing, highly resistant and easy to repair. This 100% recyclable material requires minimal maintenance and is easy to clean. It is possible to achieve curved surfaces, seamless sections and designs that other surfaces to do not allow and are available in a wide range of colours, making it easy to custom make your own counter top.

Nobilia by Oxford house Nobilia worktops are distinguished by outstanding functional value. Worktop surfaces demonstrate a high degree of resistance to scratching and abrasion. This is to ensure that the worktops can withstand the wear associated with conventional household use.

The exclusive use of high quality materials, the employment of state-of-the-art technologies and the best handcrafted workmanship are guarantees for the exceptional build quality and longevity of a Nobilia kitchen.

OKITE by estea OKITE is a specially engineered quartz surfacing material, created from the perfect combination of three elements: quartz (u p to 93%), polyester resin and natural pigments, giving it a number of functional features including strength and durability. It is non-porous and resistant to staining, easy to clean and hygienic. The environmentally friendly material is available in a wide range of colours so that you can customise your own kitchen design

www.gourmettoday.recipes 45

Definitive(ly) Good Guide

CHEF OF THE MONTH

M ay

Did you always want to be a chef or did you dream of being something else?

I always liked the idea of working in the hospitality industry since I was young. We were taken to visit the Institute of Tourism studies by my school, and it just felt so right. I sat for a higher diploma in hospitality management, but I never wanted to work in an office. Kitchen work started as a part time job to earn some money to finance studies and social life. Since then, I have never looked back.

What was your favourite dish as a child? Is it still a favourite?

Cooking at home was very simple.

With both my parents working, it was just cooking as a necessity. My mum always used to make an amazing dish of lasagne. It still is a great favourite.

I’ve obviously tweaked her recipe to enhance the flavours. Comfort food in its plainest form.

What is your favourite dish on the menu at Tarragon?

We are in the process of drawing up a new menu that has a summer feeling.

Obviously, we will always keep our signature dishes. Fish is high on my agenda. My favourite dish must be the fish al sale. No extra ingredients are added to enhance the flavour. It’s just pure and simple.

best restaurants in the world, produce is very good, and the innovation in gastronomy is second to none.

What is your favourite ingredient to work with?

It must be chili. It is such a diverse spice. A pinch could change the tasting sensations from normal to out-of-thisword. Obviously, it must be used very moderately as too much would kill the taste buds.

Michael Sultana HEAD CHEF – TARRAGON What trends do you see emerging within the dining world, particularly in Malta?

Maltese chefs are travelling more and coming back inspired. We are pushing the boundaries of what is being served in restaurants locally. Diners are preferring small quantities of food, but with very high quality ingredients, though you will always find the exceptions. Maltese are known as very big eaters. But this is changing.

Which is your favourite country for eating?

I’m in love with Italy for obvious reasons – food, wine, lifestyle, trends, history, etc. But I must also say that Spain is the country to follow. They have some of the

Win a meal for two at Tarragon Restaurant with the Definitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today.

Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at these restaurants.

Competition ends 31 July, 2017.

Is there a particular ingredient you do not personally like or never use?

Artichokes. I never liked them to eat, so I wouldn’t imagine myself using them as one of my ingredients.

What do you do when you’re not cooking?

Travelling, browsing the web for ideas, socialising with family and friends.

Tarragon Restaurant Church Str St Pauls Bay Tel: 2157 3759, 9926 6999 Web: www.tarragonmalta.com Email: inform@tarragonmalta.com

WIN a meal for tw o

The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.

www.gourmettoday.recipes 47

Definitive(ly) Good Guide

CHEF OF THE MONTH Did you always want to be a chef or did you dream of being something else?

I have never had difficulty in my choice of career as my dream has always been to be a chef.

What was your favourite dish as a child?

My favourite dish used to be tortellini with mushrooms, ham and cream sauce, but since then my palate has become more sophisticated.

What is your favourite dish on the menu at Le Bistro?

I love all the dishes on our menu, it’s full of exciting recipes using seasonal, fresh, local produce, but if I had to pick a favourite it would be risotto with gorgonzola and roasted walnuts.

What trends do you see emerging within the dining world, particularly in Malta?

Both diners and chefs in Malta have become much more adventurous. One trend I see becoming popular is smoking of big joints of meat.

Which is your favourite country for eating?

This would have to be Italy.

Who is the most famous person you have ever cooked for?

Since I am a Manchester United supporter, one of my proudest moments is cooking for Ryan Giggs.

Vote for the Chef of the Month

J u ne

JAMES BONELLO SOUS CHEF – LE BISTRO What is your favourite ingredient to work with?

I love the way our fresh local garlic enhances the flavour of so many dishes.

Is there a particular ingredient you do not personally like or never use?

Frozen vegetables!

What do you do when you’re not cooking?

I love spending time with my daughter Camille.

The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants Chef of the Month Competition supported by The Catering Centre and Gourmet Today aims to recognise the chefs who make the restaurant the success that it is.

The top 150 restaurants as voted into The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants in last year’s survey were asked to nominate their chefs for the Chef of the Month Competition.

Each month two chefs are featured on www.restaurantsmalta.com and diners are asked to vote for who they think is the best based on presentation of the food, variety of ingredients used and creativity in their use.

To be able to vote for your favourite chef sign up by registering on www.restaurantsmalta.com.

Le Bistro Radisson Blu Resort, St Georges Bay, St Julian’s Tel: 21374894 Web: www.lebistromalta.com Email: fb.stjulians@islandhotels.com

Win a meal for two at Le Bistro with the Definitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today.

Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at these restaurants.

Competition ends 31 July, 2017.

restaurantsmalta.com

WIN a meal for tw o

The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.

48 www.gourmettoday.recipes

IRRESISTIBLE CHABLIS THE REGION The steep, rocky slopes that extend to the right and left bank of the river Serein are the birthplace to a long history. This is where the unique Kimmeridgian terroir, alternating marl and marly limestone, embues Chablis with minerality and great freshness.

These are vinous characteristics, envied and often imitated around the world, but never matched.

Over the centuries Chablis has grown in reputation and built on its natural assets to become one of Burgundy’s great vineyards.

THE ESTATE 1959, the year in which William Fèvre declared his first crop, marked the birth of the domain. Descended from a family that had lived in the Chablis region for over 250 years, it was only natural that he set up as a winemaker with seven hectares of vineyards.

Over the years the domain has acquired new vineyards

in Chablis, all located in the historic terroirs. William Fèvre has become one of the biggest land owners in Chablis with 78 hectares of prestigious vineyard (of which 15.9 are classified as Premiers Crus and 15.2 as Grand Crus).

Domaine William Fèvre works passionately to express Chablis’ terroirs, respecting the region’s environment and traditional practices. The team works throughout the year with care and precision to achieve excellence and reveal the true characteristics of each climate. William Fèvre have put sustainable practices in place for growing in its vineyards and has obtained the “High Environmental Value” (HVE) status.

Two-thirds of the domain’s vineyards have been grown organically since 2006, with biodynamic methods in use since 2010.

As well as maintaining

the deep-rooted values upon which the family has always insisted, the domain has managed to instill its vineyards and its wines with great vitality, thanks to modern technology and a resolute avant-garde vision. Wine’s potential lies in its sensual response. For Chablis, this is derived from its terroir, which creates freshness and minerality.

THE WINE 2015 Chablis: This wine has a fresh and expressive nose. It exhibits notes of lemon, apple and melon with accents of oyster shell and seashore. There are refined and precise medium weight flavours, particularly on the moderately long finish.

The mouthwatering finish lingers well, echoing citrus and stone elements.

William Fèvre Chablis is imported and distributed by Red October, Qormi, Malta. Tel: 21470400.

Web: www.redoctobermalta.com

Attard & Co. Food Ltd - Tel: 21 237555

facebook.com/attardcofood www.attardcofood.com

PIPPA MATTEI

A TASTE OF THE BALTIC

You haven’t lived if you haven’t experienced sailing into Stockholm through the islands of the archipelago at 4.30am with the sun rising over the sea that is as calm as a lake.

Recently returned from a cruise of the Baltic States, I brought back memories and tastes of the countries bordering the Baltic Sea. The ship we sailed in started from Copenhagen and stopped at Riga, Tallinn, Helsinki, St Petersburg, Stockholm and Klaipeda.

Get more of Pippa’s recipes in book Pippa’s www.gourmetther oday.recipes 51 Festa.

PHOTOGRAPHY: MARIA SHEBETS

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PIPPA MATTEI HOME MADE RYE BREAD This bread is a must in a Scandinavian meal, especially for the SMORGASBORD Which translates as ‘sandwich table’ where an assortment of toppings is arranged on slices of rye bread arranged on a table where guests can choose their favourite combination!

Serves 4 Ingredients • 1 sachet active dry yeast • ½ cup warm water • 1 tbsp fennel seeds • 1 tbsp anise seeds • 1 tsp salt • 2 tbsp sugar • 2 tbsp butter, melted • 2 cups milk, brought to just under boiling point, then cooled • 3 cups rye bread flour • 3 - 3 ½ cups plain flour

Method 1. Dissolve yeast in warm water, set aside for 5 mins.

2. Crush fennel and anise seeds into a powder (with pestle and mortar).

3. Add the powdered seeds, salt, butter, milk and rye flour to yeast mixture and beat well.

4. Add enough plain flour to make a stiff dough. Let this rest for 15 minutes.

5. Turn dough onto floured surface and knead until smooth, about 10 mins.

6. Grease large bowl and place the dough in bowl and turn once so greased side is up.

7. Cover and let rise, in a warm place, until doubled in volume, approx. 2 hours.

8. Punch dough down and divide into 2 parts.

9. Shape each into oblong balls.

10. Place balls on two greased baking sheets. Let rise for about 1 hour.

11. Bake at 190°C for 30 minutes or until done.

12. Cool on wire racks.

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GRAVAD LAX Salmon, and especially smoked salmon and Gravad lax feature strongly in Scandinavian cuisine.

Serves 12 Ingredients • 2 level tbsp rock salt • 4 level tbsp sugar • 1 tsp black peppercorns crushed • 1kg fresh salmon, middle cut, scaled with skin on and bones removed • 1 tbsp brandy • Large bunch fresh dill Mustard sauce hovmästarsås • 100ml Dijon mustard • 100ml vegetable oil • 5 level tbsp sugar • 4 tbsp white vinegar • 1 tsp soured cream (or crème fraiche) • Pinch salt For garnish • Fresh dill • Lemon wedges

CURRIED HERRING Pickled herring is another ingredient that features strongly in Scandinavian cuisine. This is my favourite way of preparing it.

Ingredients • 2 x 200g jars pickled herrings • 1/3 cup mayonnaise • 1/3 cup sour cream • 1½ tbsp coarse-grained mustard • 2 tsp fresh lemon juice • 1 tsp curry powder • 1 tsp sugar 54 www.gourmettoday.recipes

Method 1.

Mix together the salt, sugar and crushed pepper and rub this mixture all over the fish.

2. Sprinkle with brandy.

3. Put one third of the dill in a shallow plastic container and place one piece of salmon skin side down on top of this.

4. Put another third of the dill on top of this, add remaining salmon skin side up and top with remaining dill.

5. Cover the salmon and dill with cling film and put a heavy plate over it.

6. Weigh the plate down with heavy cans and chill the salmon thoroughly for 24 to 36 hours.

7. To make the mustard sauce, put the mustard, vinegar, sugar and salt into a medium sized bowl.

8. Slowly add oil whisking with a fork all the time until all the oil is emulsified into the mixture. Chill.

9. Stir in the soured cream and the 4 tbsp chopped fresh dill just before serving with gravad lax.

10. When ready to serve, scrape all the dill off of the salmon and carefully, thinly carve gravad lax with a fish carving knife laying the slices overlapping on a large serving dish.

11. Sprinkle the edges with fresh chopped dill and surround with fresh lemon wedges.

12. Serve with buttered rye bread and mustard sauce.

Method 1. Remove and discard skin and dark flesh from the herring.

2. Cut herring into 4cm pieces.

3. Mix all other ingredients together, add herring pieces, season with salt and pepper and serve on some rye bread.

Use the prepared gravad lax or herring on the slices of rye bread either spread with butter or lard. Top with raw onion rings and salad greens, slices of hard boiled eggs, slices of tomatoes, capers, slices of pickled gherkins, some cooked shrimps and maybe some salmon roe!

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PIPPA MATTEI

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

St Petersburg is also a city on the Balkan sea but is very different from the other cities we visited both in architecture and cuisine. Our after visits to wonderful sights like the Hermitage, the Faberge museum, the winter palace, the church of the spilled blood, our guide took us to two excellent restaurants. These are some of the dishes we sampled.

BORSCHT Ingredients • 500g bone-in brisket of beef • Some bones • 400g oxtail • 1 leek (white part) • 1 brown onion, peeled • 1 carrot, peeled • 1 celery stalk • 2 bay leaves • 2 litres water Borscht • 3 tbsp sunflower oil • 1 brown onion, peeled and finely chopped • 1 carrot, peeled and cut into thin even matchsticks • 1 red bell pepper, seeds removed, cut into thin even matchsticks • 4 large ripe tomatoes, skinned and grated (if tomatoes are not very ripe, use tinned tomatoes • 1 medium potato, peeled and cut in half • 1-2 beetroots (200g), peeled and cut into thin even matchsticks • 1/3 head young cabbage, finely shredded • A few black peppercorns • 3 cloves garlic, peeled • Salt • Lemon juice (optional) • Sugar (optional) Serve with • Slices rye bread • 1 clove garlic, peeled and cut in half • ½ beetroot, grated • Thick sour cream • Slices lemon • Dill or parsley

Method 1. To make the stock, put all ingredients into a large pot, bring to the boil and then simmer for 1 ½ hours skimming off the scum continuously, till the meat is so tender, you can pull it apart with your hands.

2. Strain the liquid, discard all the vegetables and pull meat apart into pieces removing any bones and sinews, cover and set aside.

3. To make the borscht, put oil into pot and when hot, add onions and sweat till soft. Do not brown.

4. Add the carrot to the pan and sweat it together with the onion, adding some stock. Cook for 5-6 mins.

5. Add the red pepper, cook another 5 mins, add the tomatoes and cook for 10 mins over medium heat.

6. In a separate pan, heat a little more oil and when hot, add the prepared beetroot and cook for 10 mins adding 1 tbsp of the white vinegar, then a little stock cooking till the beetroot is tender.

7. Bring the stock to a simmer, and add the meat and potato.

8. Cook for 10 mins and add the cabbage, cook for 10 more mins.

9. Add black peppercorns and sautéed vegetables and continue cooking for 7-10 mins.

10. Add the beetroot and cook gently another 5 mins.

11. Add the garlic and cook for 5 mins more.

12. Lift out the potato pieces and mash well, return to the soup and give it a good stir.

13. Season generously with salt and balance the flavours using the lemon juice and some sugar (if needed).

14. Let it stand at least an hour then serve with sliced rye bread, a garlic clove, peeled and cut in half, half of a small beetroot, peeled and grated, thick sour cream, a few slices of lemon and dill or parsley.

15. Serve with a shot of ice-cold vodka.

BEEF STROGANOFF Serves 4-6 Ingredients • 1 tbsp oil • 1 tbsp butter • 1 onion, thinly sliced • 1 tbsp flour • 200g mushrooms, sliced • 400g good beef steak, cut into strips • ¼ cup brandy • Salt and pepper • ½ cup beef stock • 1 bay leaf • 1 tsp whole grain mustard • 1 tbsp sweet paprika • 1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream • Some fresh parsley, chopped

Method 1. Heat oil and butter in heavy pot, and add onions and cook till soft.

2. Add sliced mushrooms and cook for 7-10 mins. Remove and set aside.

3. Add cut up steak to the pot and quickly fry for 3-5 mins.

4. Add flour and stir well, add brandy and continue to cook until alcohol burns off. Add stock, mustard, bay leaf and seasoning. Scrape the bottom on the pan with a spatula to release all the brown bits, they add flavour to the casserole.

5. Put the onions and mushrooms back into the pot and cook till all ingredients are very tender.

6. Finally stir in the sour cream and parsley and take stew off heat.

7. Serve with lots of mashed potatoes or rice.

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RUSSIAN EIGHT-LAYER HONEY CAKE - MEDOVIK Ingredients • 4 tbsp honey • ¾ cup granulated sugar • 2 tbsp unsalted butter • 3 large eggs, well beaten with a fork • 1 tsp baking soda • 3 cups plain flour Sour cream frosting • 1 litre sour cream • 2 cups icing sugar • 1 cup heavy whipping cream Topping • 200g berries, • Some honeycomb (optional)

2.

3.

4.

Method 1. Add ¾ cup sugar, ¼ cup honey and 2 tbsp unsalted butter to a medium sauce pan and melt them together over medium to low heat, whisking occasionally until the sugar is melted (5-7mins). Don’t put them over high heat or they may scorch the bottom.

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5.

As soon as the sugar is dissolved, remove from heat and while its still hot, add in the beaten eggs in a slow steady stream while whisking vigorously until all of the eggs are incorporated. (If you stop whisking you may end up with scrambled eggs!)

Whisk in the baking soda until no lumps remain, then fold in 3 cups flour, ½ cup at a time, with a spatula until the dough reaches a clay consistency and doesn’t stick to your hands.

Cut the dough into 8 equal pieces and move on to the next step right away (these roll out best when the dough is still warm).

On a well-floured surface, roll each piece out into a thin 23cm circle, about ¼ cm thick, saving the scraps for later. You can sprinkle the top with a little flour too to keep dough from sticking to your rolling pin.

sour cream THIS CAKE IS BEST MADE WITH LATVIAN SOUR CREAM AVAILABLE FROM SPECIALIST STORES 6.

7.

8.

9.

Transfer the dough to a large sheet of parchment paper and bake 2 at a time at 180°C for 4-5 mins or until golden.

Transfer to a wire and let cool completely before stacking. Repeat with remaining layers.

Finally bake the scraps separately evenly on the sheet of parchment.

Once the scraps are baked, cooled and firm, you can crush them with a rolling pin or pulse them in a food processor until you have fine crumbs.

To make the frosting, beat 1 cup

10.

11.

12.

13.

cream until fluffy and stiff peaks form.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the sour cream with 2 cups icing sugar.

Fold the whipped cream into the sour cream and refrigerate until ready to use.

To assembling the cake, spread about 1/3 cup frosting on each cake layer (don’t skimp on it since the cake needs to absorb some of the cream to become ultra soft.

Press the cake layers down gently as you go to keep the layers from having air gaps. Frost the top and sides with

remaining frosting.

14. Dust the top and sides with the cake crumbs, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. This cake needs time to absorb some of the cream and soften, so be patient.

It’s worth the wait!

late or Place a 22.5a csmprping form base f romer your rolled mould ov ace around it dough and ztra cutter to get wit h a piz fect circle. a per www.gourmettoday.recipes 59

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INDIVIDUAL APPLE PIES Apple pies of all sorts are very popular up in the northern countries.

Makes about 14 pies Ingredients Pastry • 350g plain flour, plus extra to roll out the pastry • 200g butter, cold • 100g golden caster sugar • Pinch salt • 1 egg yolk • 2 capfuls vanilla extract • 2 tbsp water • 1 tbsp milk, to glaze Filling • 4 large apples, chopped thinly • 1 orange, zest only • ½ tsp mixed spice • ½ tsp cinnamon • ½ tsp powdered cloves • Pinch of nutmeg • 2-3 tbsp light brown sugar Method 1. Put the flour and butter in a bowl and rub together until you have a mixture like breadcrumbs, then stir in the sugar and salt.

2. Separate the egg and put the yolk into the flour, butter and sugar with the vanilla essence. Stir with a knife.

3. Add the water, a tablespoon at a time, and stir with knife until it begins to clump together, then make a ball with it using your hands and knead until smooth.

4. Put the pastry in the fridge for an hour.

5. Peel and chop the apples and add the orange zest, then add the sugar and spices and mix in with your hands making sure the apples are all coated evenly.

6. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C and roll out the pastry to about ½cm thick.

7. Cut out circles to fit your cupcake or muffin tray and place them in the wells in the tray.

8. Fill each one to the top or just above with the apples and then re-roll the pastry to make the tops, and place them on top.

9. Glaze them with milk and stab the tops once with a knife.

10. Sprinkle with demerara sugar 11. Cook for 25 to 35 mins or until golden brown.

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THE A LL-NEW

R AVIOLI FR ESH FROZEN ITA LI A N EGG PA STA

TASTE THE TRADITION In the new Volia range you’ll explore the taste of tradition.

These ravioli are made with the finest wheat flour, the best quality eggs and inspired by traditional Italian family recipes passed down from generation to generation in Emilia Romagna.

Trade Enquiries: Attard & Co. 21237555 voliafood.com voliafood

GOURMET TV

A GLUTEN-FREE SUMMER

Following a gluten-free diet seems to be even harder in the summer when sandwiches and a quick plate of pasta become the meals of choice as they do not take long to prepare and, let’s face it, who really wants to spend hours slaving in the hot kitchen in summer?

T

he easiest way to follow a glutenfree diet is to choose options that naturally don’t include gluten at all - fish dishes, meat dishes, rice dishes. If you feel like you really need that plate of pasta, there are some pretty good options out there today. Insofar as desserts, this gluten thing can leave you wondering if you’ll ever have a decent sweet ever again.

This year on Gourmet Today TV,

Michael Diacono put considerable effort into finding interesting glutenfree recipes as presenter, Marilu Vella is celiac. What’s better is they can be prepared in under half an hour (excluding baking time). So don’t miss out this summer. Indulge in all your favourite foods. Invite family and friends over.

They won’t even notice there’s not gluten in there!

CALAMARI WITH NDUJA AND RICOTTA Ingredients • ¼ lemon • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped • ¼ hot chilli • Salt and pepper • Handful parsley, finely chopped • Olive oil • 150g nduja Ricotta mix • 1 tub ricotta • 2 tbsp pecorino • Handful mint • ½ tsp lemon zest olive oil Method 1. Chop the calamari. Remove the tentacles and cut the tubes into two flat pieces 2. Score the underside of the calamari.

3. Marinate the calamari in lemon, garlic, chilli, parsley, and season with salt and pepper.

4. Mix the ricotta with the pecorino, mint, lemon zest and olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

5. In a small saucepan melt the nduja until it turns liquidy.

6. Heat a griddle pan on high heat.

7. Grill the calamari for a few mins until cooked through on both sides.

8. Serve the calamari with blobs of fresh ricotta mix, the nduja dressing and lemon wedges.

This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 3 June, 2017.

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ZUCCHINI AND RICOTTA FRITTERS Ingredients • 250ml white wine • 1 garlic • ½ onion • 2 bay leaves • 1kg zucchini, grated • 250g fresh ricotta • ½ chilli flakes • 30g polenta • 50g pistachios • Handful parsley • A few sprigs lemon thyme • 1 strip lemon zest, finely chopped • 1 egg • Knob butter • Olive oil • Handful pea shoots Method 1. Simmer the white wine in a small

Tip

Polenta makes aougor odin substi tute for fl any frit ters

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

saucepan with the garlic, onion and bay leaves until the mixture has reduced by one third.

Grate the zucchinis and place in a colander over a bowl.

Add some salt and allow the water to come out of the veg for approx. 10 mins.

Squeeze any excess out of the zucchini and place into a bowl.

Add the ricotta and the chilli.

Add the polenta and the pistachios and mix well.

Add the fresh herbs and lemon zest.

Add the egg.

Remove the garlic, onion and bay leaves from the white wine and add just a little to the mixture until soft but not runny. Add

10.

11.

12.

13.

more polenta if the mixture becomes too wet.

In a deep frying pan melt the butter in the olive oil and when the fat is hot add spoonfuls of the batter to the pan, leaving enough space so that they do not stick to each other.

Cook until golden, flip over and cook the other side until golden (a couple of minutes on each side).

Top with pea shoots or other greens and drizzle with olive oil.

Serve with a wedge of lemon.

This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 20 May, 2017.

GOURMET TV RICH, GLUTEN-FREE CHOCOLATE CAKE Ingredients • 175g good quality dark chocolate • 175g brown sugar • 175g butter • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 6 eggs, separated • 175g ground almonds • ½ tsp salt • Cocoa powder, for dusting to garnish Method 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl placed over a saucepan of simmering water, making sure the bowl does not touch the water.

3. Add the brown sugar and the butter to a mixing bowl and cream until light and fluffy.

4. Add the vanilla extract and three of the egg yolks. Mix until combined, scrape down the mixture from the

sides and mix again.

Add the remaining yolks and mix again.

6. Add the ground almonds and the melted chocolate and mix well.

7. Whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form.

8. Add the salt and the whisked egg whites and fold in gently until just combined.

9. Add to a springform tin lined with baking paper and bake for approx.

40 mins until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.

10. Allow to cool for 5 mins in the pan then remove from the pan and allow to cool completely on a wire rack.

11. Dust the top of the cake with cocoa powder and serve with fresh pouring cream or ice cream.

5.

This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 27 May, 2017.

gluten free & vegan burgers

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C ASUAL DINING BY THE WATER’S EDGE AT THE RADISSON BLU RESORT, ST JULIANS OPEN FOR LUNCH DAILY AND FOR DINNER ON TUESDAYS, FRIDAYS AND SATURDAYS C ALL ON 21374894 FOR RESERVATIONS

TICKING THOSE SUMMER BOXES When choosing a spot for lunch or dinner in the summer there are a few criteria that simply have to be filled. The first is that the restaurant is by the sea. The second is that there is a cool breeze. The third (not necessarily the least important) is the food has to be incredible.

One spot that ticks all those boxes is The Edge, at the Radisson Blu Resort, St Julian’s. At the water’s edge, this is the perfect spot to while away a summer evening. Head chef, Ramon Muscat, shares some of The Edge’s favourite recipes this summer.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

Ricotta and strawberry salad Ingredients

Method

• • • • • • • • •

1.

150g fresh ricotta 100g strawberries 150g mixed lettuce 1 beetroot 10g roasted walnuts Salt and pepper 1 tbsp local honey 1 tbsp balsamic reduction Olive oil

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2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Cook the beetroot in sugar, cinnamon and water and leave to marinate in the water you cooked it in for 24 hours.

Pick the mixed salad leaves.

Cut the fresh strawberries in half.

Roast the walnuts.

In a separate bowl, mix the lettuce, strawberries, walnuts, beetroot, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Place in a serving bowl and put the ricotta cheese on top.

Drizzle with local honey balsamic reduction.

Risotto al profumo di mare

Ingredients • 100g king prawns • 100g mussels, shelled • 100g clams, shelled • 100g calamaretti • Handful crispy rucola • Handful fresh basil • 100g tomato sauce • 120g Arborio rice • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 100ml fish stock • Salt and pepper • 30ml white wine • 1 onion, finely chopped • Olive oil

Method 1. Heat some olive oil in a pan and sauté ½ of the onions and one clove of garlic until soft and translucent.

2. Add the king prawns and the shelled mussels and clams and the calamaretti.

3. When they are half cooked, approx. 1 min, remove from the pan and set aside.

4. In the same pan, without cleaning, sauté the remaining onions and garlic.

5. Add the Arborio rice and cook

6.

7.

8.

for a few mins, until well coated.

Add a ladleful of fish stock and stir the rice until the stock has been absorbed. Add another ladelful of stock and continue in this manner until the rice is cooked through.

Around halfway through cooking add the tomato sauce and the seafood mix.

Season to taste and add the chopped basil.

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PIZZA CAPRESE Ingredients • 650g bread flour • 1 ½ tbsp sugar • 1 tbsp salt • 11g instant yeast (1 large pkt) • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • 1 ¾ cups water, at room temperature Method 1. Combine flour, sugar, salt and yeast in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until incorporated.

2. Add the olive oil and water and process until the mixture forms balls (approx. 15 secs). Process for another 15 secs.

3. Transfer to a floured surface and knead by hand until a

smooth ball is formed.

Divide into three parts and place each into a zip-lock freezer bag.

5. Place in the fridge and allow to rise for at least 1 day and up to 5 days.

6. Allow to rest for at least 2 hours at room temperature before baking.

7. When ready to cook roll out the pizza dough.

8. Top with fresh tomato sauce, fior di latte and Roma tomatoes and season with salt and pepper.

9. Bake in a wood-burning oven for 10 mins until cooked through.

10. Top with fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil.

4.

Beef short ribs Ingredients • 1kg beef ribs • 1 onions • 1 clove garlic • 100g pear puree • 2 tbsp brown sugar • 1 tbsp soy sauce • 1 tbsp sesame oil • Salt and pepper • 3 spring onions Method 1. Peel and core the pears and add a splash of water into a saucepan. Cook on medium heat until the pears are soft. Puree the cooked pears and set aside.

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Finely chop the onion and spring onions and mince the garlic and add to a mixing bowl large enough to take all of the ribs.

Add the pureed pear, brown sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil and salt and pepper and mix well.

Place the ribs into the bowl and mix until the meat is coated.

Cover the bowl and leave the ribs to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours.

When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 100°C. Place the ribs, along with the marinade, into a roasting dish, cover with aluminium foil and cook for about 7 hours. Every hour or so, remove from the oven, uncover and mix well.

Serve with beer-battered onion rings, fries and seasonal salad.

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Chooseyour

Kinnie The unique taste for you

Bitter sweet soft drink with orange flavouring & aromatic herbs 44Kcal/100ml

Low calorie no sugar <1Kcal/100ml

No sugar with extra orange flavour <1Kcal/100ml

50% less sugar and calories 20Kcal/100ml

HOMECOOKS

CHI

Y: JAMES BIAN

PHOTOGRAPH

HOMECOOKS

When the weather gets hotter our tastes in food change. This season our homecooks look to Mexico for inspiration. Gaby Holland starts off the meal with spicy corn fritters served with an avocado and tomato salsa. These starters are great for sharing. Simply leave a large dish of these in the middle of the table and let your guests help themselves.

Pascal Holland goes for fish tacos for mains, pairing them with red cabbage, radishes and guacamole. Nick Formosa finishes off the meal with a mojito inspired cake, using lime and mint to flavour a glutenfree polenta cake

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Fritters may be kept warm in oven until ready to serve.

Space them out on an oven tray to avoid steaming.

HOMECOOKS

LEYDA CHARDONNAY With the purpose of producing a chardonnay that respects the natural fruit of Leyda’s cool climate, this wine was made in a fruit-driven style, showing in nose ripe citrus and semitropical hints of kiwi and cherimoya.

SPICY SWEET CORN FRITTERS Ingredients • 400g frozen corn • 4 spring onions • 6 slices jalapeño, finely chopped • 1-2 limes • 2 large eggs • ¼ cup milk • 1 cup cheddar cheese, grated • 1 cup self-rising flour • 2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped • 1 tsp paprika • Oil for cooking • Salt to taste • Lime wedges, to serve Avocado, tomato and red pepper salsa • 2 ripe avocados • 2 large tomatoes, diced • 1 red pepper, diced • 1 small onion, finely diced • 2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped • 1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped • 1 tsp cumin seed • 1 lime, juice and zest

Method 1. Dice the dark green and light green parts of the spring onions and put them in a large bowl.

2. Add the sweet corn and slices of jalapeño then stir in the milk, cheese, self-raising flour, salt and eggs. Mix to combine.

3. Heat a large fry pan with oil. Using a large spoon, or an ice cream scoop drop the batter onto the hot pan and pat lightly to form small circular fritters (around 5cms in diameter).

4. Fry until both sides are golden brown and the centres are cooked. Drain on paper towels.

5. Serve with a good squeeze of lime and some of the tomato and avocado salsa.

6. To make the avocado and tomato salsa, peel and cut the avocado into small cubes.

7. Place in a bowl and stir in the lime juice.

8. Add the rest of ingredients and toss well. This salsa is best eaten soon after prepared to avoid avocado from discolouring.

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LEYDA SAUVIGNON BLANC Strong expression, this sauvignon blanc shows herbal and green character together with citrus aromas, limes, mandarins, grapefruit and passion fruit. On palate it is fresh with a sweet texture, fruit concentrated with crisp acidity and juicy ending.

FISH TACOS Ingredients • 500g filleted sea bass • 4 corn tortillas • Grapeseed oil Crispy panko Coating • 1 ½ cups beer • 1 cup flour • 1 tbsp cornstarch • 1 tsp salt • 1 tbsp garlic powder • ½ tsp cayenne pepper • 1¼ cups panko breadcrumbs Toppings • 2 ripe avocados • Olive oil • Coriander, finely chopped • ½ purple shredded cabbage • 2 carrots, shredded • 6 radishes thinly sliced • 1 beetroot, cooked and shredded • Sour cream • 3 limes Method 1. Place the two avocados in a food processor along with some coriander, a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lime. Cover and 76 www.gourmettoday.recipes

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refrigerate.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the beer, flour, cornstarch, salt, garlic powder and cayenne pepper.

The consistency should be similar to pancake mix. If too thick simply add more beer.

Pour the panko bread crumbs into another bowl.

Take the fish fillets and cut into strips, around two inches long and one inch wide.

Dip the fish into the batter, making sure to coat well, then dredge through the panko breadcrumbs making sure they are well coated.

In a frying pan heat the oil, it should bubble and sizzle evenly with no splatters or popping when some breadcrumbs are dropped into the oil.

Gently lower fish in pan, fry for 2-3 minutes until golden brown and crispy.

Once done place on rack or paper towel to drain.

To make the tortillas, fold and shallow fry for a few seconds until

just golden, remove and drain using paper towels.

10. Fill the tacos with your choice of toppings and a few strips of fish, drizzle with sour cream and guacamole and serve immediately.

Malta: Attard & Co. Food Ltd. Tel: 21 237555 Gozo: Abrahamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Supplies Ltd. Tel: 21 563231 facebook.com/attardcofood

LIME AND MINT POLENTA CAKE Ingredients Polenta cake • 4 limes • 3 tbsp almond milk • 130g polenta • 225g ground almonds • 225g unsalted butter, at room temperature • 225g caster sugar • 2 tsp baking powder • 3 eggs • Butter, for greasing Syrup • 100g icing sugar • 3 limes, juice only Mint cream • 2 tubs whipping cream • 1 cup fresh mint • 150g caster sugar Method 1. Preheat oven to 150°C. 2. To make the cake, grease a circular baking tin and cover with grease proof paper, placing 2 layers on the base and one layer on the rim.

3. Grease further with butter.

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4.

Mix all dry ingredients, the polenta, ground almond, caster sugar and baking powder.

5. Beat together eggs, butter and the juice from 3 limes.

6. Slowly, start to add the dry ingredient to the wet mixture, using the almond milk to create the right consistency. The batter should feel stodgy and not loose.

7. Pour the batter into the baking tin and bake for about 40 mins, keeping an eye on the cake to make sure the top does not burn.

8. To make the syrup, heat the sugar and lime juice in a small saucepan over very low heat. Allow the sugar to dissolve completely (approx. 15 mins) until you are left with a syrup.

9. Remove from the oven and pierce holes into the cake with a skewer and pour over the lime syrup.

10. Allow to cool and store in the fridge.

11. To make the mint cream, add the mint and sugar into a pan and cook on very low heat, pressing the mint leaves down to release oils.

12. Cook for approx. 15 mins until the

sugar dissolves and you are left with a syrup.

13. Add the syrup to the whipping cream and whip to soft peaks.

14. When the cake is completely cool, top with mint cream and decorate with thin slices of limes and some mint leaves.

15. Serve with mojitos by the pool.

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JUNE 2017

RECIPE INDEX STARTERS Gravad lax

54

Curried herring

54

Zucchini and ricotta fritters

64

Ricotta strawberry salad

68

Sweet corn fritters

75

MAINS Dashi

34

Hot soba noodle soup

34

Soba noodle salad

37

Ginger chicken meatballs

37

Borscht

57

Beef stroganoff

57

Calamari with nduja

63

Risotto al porfumo di mare

69

Pizza caprese

71

Short beef ribs

71

Fish tacos

76

DESSERTS Eight-layer honey cake

58

Individual apple pies

61

Gluten-free chocolate cake

65

Lime and mint polenta cake

78

SIDES Japanese tea leaf salad

39

Rye bread

53

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