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S E A TH STM E I R SSU CH I
ISSUE 49 • D
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THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT
AT LA SUPERBA
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Pippa Matte
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Nick Formos
CONTRIBUTORS
Gaby Hollan
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Editor’s note
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he lights are on, the tree is up, presents are being bought and it’s starting to look a lot like Christmas. All we need now is a plan for food. The Christmas turkey is the star of the show on the big day, but it has a tendency to be dry and tasteless, especially if we are cooking for a large number of people. We have some great tips to make sure your bird remains succulent and full of flavour. Christmas is all about indulgence in the sweeter things in life. We have some recipes for all things sugary and spicy – think gingerbread men, ginger cakes with cinnamon frosting and Christmassy shortbread. Tis the season for indulgence afterall! Though entertaining might be tough, Michael Diacono and Pippa Mattei have some recipe ideas to get you through the day with family and friends and come out on top. Michael has some great fish recipes that would make an ideal meal on New Year’s Eve, if you are having guests at home and Pippa Mattei uses a trip to the English countryside for inspiration to make a delicious roast beef with all the extras along with a traditional Christmas pudding. We hope you enjoy this edition of Gourmet Today and hope that it inspires you to have the most indulgent Christmas. We can worry about the waistline in the New Year! Bon appetit!
Pascal Holla n
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Jimmy Aquil
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James Barto
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Amy Micalle f Decesare
Michael Diac
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Liam Gauci
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CONTENTS Contact us
10 GOURMET TODAY WISH LIST These are a few of our favourite things
Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt
15 TABLE-HOPPING We just love to eat out. These are our favourites this season
Head Designer: Kevin Grech Photography: James Bianchi, Rachel Zammit Cutajar
28 THE BIG BIRD Get some great tips to making the most succulent turkey this Christmas
Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia afarrugia@mediatoday.com.mt Contact for advertising: Philippa Zammit pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt Ester Mocchegiani emocchegiani@mediatoday.com.mt
33 ENGLISH ROASTS AND CHRISMTAS PUDDING Tea time will never be the same with these biscuit recipes
Published by:
CH ISSUE
Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt
Printed at: Print It Printing Services
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DECEMBER 2017
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51 RINING IN THE NEW YEAR Michael Diacono prepares a stress-free meal for the last night of the year
T RI HE IS STM SU E AS
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Cover: Christmas fondant at La Superba Photo by James Bianchi
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33 45 SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE Some Christmas sweets that aren’t boring old mince pies
58 PICKING GRAPES: CHAMPAGNE Gourmet Today’s top Champagnes 67 FESTIVE FLAVOURS FOR THE PARTY SEASON Chefs at the Radisson Blu Resort and Spa, Golden Sands prepare a festive meal that isn’t the same old boring turkey 73 GETTING READY FOR THE FESTIVE SEASON Our homecooks make some easy recipes that can be made any time around the festive season, or even on the big day itself 78 THE DEFINITIVE(LY) GOOD GUIDE CHEF OF THE MONTH Daniel Grech of Soreditch is The Definitive(ly) Good Guide’s Chef of the Month
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WISH LIST TRENDY OIL AND VINEGAR BOTTLES MDINA GLASS Handmade oil and vinegar bottles by Mdina Glass come in a wide variety of colours and finishes. They’ll add a splash of colour in any kitchen and make great gift ideas for Christmas. Check out Mdina Glass Open Week, between 7 and 17 December where there are great discounts to be had at any of their outlets.
For more info visit www.mdinaglass.com.mt, call 2141 5786 or email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt. Follow at facebook.com/mdinaglass
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A job in food media comes with its own hazards, one of which is the huge wish list we put together when checking out different shops, meeting chefs and dining in restaurants. These are some of the items that have topped our list this season. Whether you’re looking to treat yourself or looking for a gift for a foodie, these are certainly worth checking out
WISH LIST WARM SOUPS IN PRETTY BOWLS MDINA GLASS Enjoy your favourite soups in handmade bowls created by Mdina Glass. The glassmaker offers a wide range of bowls in various colour combinations and a clear or frosted glass finish. Check out Mdina Glass Open Week, between 7 and 17 December where there are great discounts to be had at any of their outlets.
For more info visit www.mdinaglass.com.mt, call 2141 5786 or email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com. mt. Follow at facebook.com/mdinaglass
SUPPORT LOCAL S. RAUSI HAMPERS At Gourmet Today we love local produce. The Christmas hampers at S. Rausi Trading are packed with a selection of both Maltese and imported wines, spirits, confectionery items and other delicacies. At great prices and with free delivery to all parts of the island, these hampers are the ideal Christmas gift.
For more information visit www.srausi.com, email on info@srausi.com or call on 2133 0477, 2131 6210, 7909 3197.
FESTIVE TABLEWARE HENRI TABLEWARE Eye-catching festive-themed tableware at HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique this Christmas as well as inspirational gift ideas. Visit the HENRI pre-Christmas sale for a 15% discount on everything in-store between 7 and 17 December.
HENRI…unique gift ideas for him, for her… or just for yourself. Outlets: Pjazza Tigné & Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson). Tel: 2010 6306. www.henri.com.mt or facebook/henrimalta
TRADITIONAL NEAPOLITAN PIZZA PULCINELLA PIZZERIA Good pizzas are becoming easier to find in Malta, but REALLY good pizzas are not that easy to find. The trick is to stick to the rules, use traditional recipes and use the best quality Italian ingredients on the market. Pulcinella does just that. Light and fluffy dough slathered with great Italian toppings like mozzarella di bufola, mortadella, bresaola and tartufo, who can resist a little bit of Italian comfort food? Pulcinella Pizzeria, 691, Saint Joseph High Street, Hamrun. Tel 21242084. Facebook: laverapizzerianapoletana
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MOROCCAN LAMB SHANK TAGINE Over the Christmas period we tend to go for western dishes with particular flavours. Jonathan Tully, chef patron at Tully’s Fusion in Senglea, has some recipe ideas for the holidays that aren’t your traditional turkey. This Moroccan lamb shank tagine with warming and comforting flavours are perfect for the winter months and why not at Christmas time? The team at Tully’s Fusion would like to take this opportunity to wish you and your families a Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year.
Ingredients • 175g dried chickpeas • 2 tbsp olive oil • 4 lamb shanks (medium) • 2 medium onions, chopped • 2 tsp fresh ginger, finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 fresh green chillies, seeded and finely chopped • 2 tsp ground cumin • 2 tsp ground coriander • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper • 1 tsp paprika • 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped • Pinch saffron strands • 2cm piece cinnamon stick • 450g carrots, cut into thick slices • 140g dried apricots • 1 tsp clear honey • To serve • 50g blanched almonds, fried in butter until browned • Chopped fresh coriander Method 1. Soak the chickpeas overnight. 2. Drain and tip into a saucepan and cover generously with fresh cold water. 3. Bring to the boil, simmer for 45
TULLY’S FUSION 64, Triq Dingli Cornelio Senglea Tel: 99627301 14 www.gourmett tullyfusionoday.recipes
mins and drain. Heat the oil in a large casserole and brown the lamb all over. 5. Remove and set aside. 6. Pour off most of the fat, leaving 1 tbsp in the dish, add the onions and fry for 8-10 mins until soft. 7. Preheat the oven to 160C. 8. Mix together the ginger, garlic, chillies, cumin, coriander, pepper and paprika. 9. Add half of this to the onions, tip in the tomatoes and cook for 2-3 mins. 10. Put in the lamb and chickpeas, cover generously with water (about 850ml), bring to the boil 4.
and simmer for 5 mins. 11. Cover and cook in the oven for 1½ - 2 hours until the chickpeas are really tender. (You can prepare up to this stage the day before. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Bring back to simmering point before starting step 4.) 12. Remove from the oven and stir in the remaining spice mixture, the saffron and cinnamon, carrots, apricots, honey and salt. 13. Cover and return to the oven for 45 mins – 1 hour until the lamb is tender and the vegetables cooked. Scatter the almonds and coriander on top.
TABLE-HOPPING As much as we love to cook at Gourmet Today, we also love to eat out. New restaurants are popping up all over the island, some that stay and some that don’t seem to make it. We take it upon ourselves to find out which ones are worth your while… a job we take very seriously. These are our favourite tables this season. PHOTO: SHARMA AT PORTOMASO, BY JAMES BIANCHI
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
CHRISTMAS IS COMING TO LA SUPERBA There is nowhere better than Valletta to get into the Christmas spirit. The lights, the shoppers, the diners, the drinkers, Valletta is a hub of activity come December. La Superba joins in the Christmas action with some great meals ideal for festive celebrations. RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR has the low down.
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a Superba has gained a reputation among diners in the City for using fresh, quality ingredients to create some innovative dishes. They are now gearing up for the festive season so you can be assured of the very best Christmas parties, whether on Christmas Eve or New Year’s Eve or any time in between. When you choose a place to dine during the holidays, the food is paramount, however it isn’t everything. You also want to pick a place where the ambiance fits the occasion. The modern décor of La Superba, with exposed light fittings and ropes on the ceiling makes for the perfect spot. The trendy atmosphere is sure to put you right in the mood for a festive celebration, whether you’re dining with friends, family or colleagues. The last time we ventured to La Superba, we were at the tail end of summer and this reflected in the ingredients used. Now that the winter has kicked in and Christmas is just around the corner, we move onto more earthy and warming ingredients, to combat
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those sub-20 degree temperatures we experience in the Med. More wintery dishes include baby octopus served with potato salad with drops of balsamic vinegar, chicken rolls served with dried figs and a Martini Rosso reduction and a delicate saffron risotto served with crunchy bacon and topped with crushed pistachios for starters, while mains include a warming veal casserole, while some of their signature dishes remain on the menu, like the delicious lamb chops served on polenta and their signature fish and chips. If you asked my parents (and many of their friends) what their favourite meal from childhood was, they would say liver. This fell out of fashion in my day but the recent nose-to-tail trend that has gripped the culinary world has seen dishes like this re-surface. At La Superba, they are serving veal liver cooked in the traditional Venetian style with caramelised onion and served on a large crouton. Perhaps this dish alone will be enough to get the younger generation back onto liver.
Deciding on a destination for New Year’s Eve is always tough. You want to go somewhere special, yet somewhere you know you are not going to be disappointed. It is a special night after all! The New Year’s Eve menu at La Superba will make that decision for you. Be prepared for an indulgent meal that includes splendid dishes like lemon scented risotto served with shrimps and prosecco – that’s a party dish if ever we’ve seen one! Crispy octopus cooked in honey and thyme and served with a chickpea mash, ravioli cooked in veal marrow with Pecorino and thyme and roast beef served with dried figs and winter vegetables are all dishes that make us long for New Year’s Eve. La Superba has firmly established itself as a favourite in our books. Whether it’s dining over the Christmas season or over the quieter winter months when all the chaos has died down a little, you can be sure we will be booking a table a number of times before our next issue!
TABLE-HOPPING
La Superba 60, Melita Street, Valletta Tel: 21239843 Web: www.lasuperba.com.mt
lasuperbavalletta
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
MEALS FOR SHARING The festive season is all about sharing. The idea at Sharma is that you share your meals so that you can experience a wider range of flavours from the Orient as well as the Med. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE heads down to their new outlet in Portomaso.
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icture this: the weekend has come to a bitter end, it’s a miserable Monday evening and you’ve never felt hungrier in your entire life. Edit that picture: the weekend has come to a bitter end but Monday isn’t half as miserable because you’re making your way to Sharma Ethnic Cuisines. With a spring in my step, I couldn’t help but be blown away by the authenticity of the restaurant, from the intricately designed shawls, rugs and pottery to the warm earthy tones of the tablecloths. Let me tell you, the décor isn’t the only thing reflecting rich oriental traditions. My guest and I took a seat and ordered (or rather, grossly over-ordered) no less than nine plates, working on the assumption that if we were to share all nine, the calories wouldn’t count as much, right? Sure. Let’s move on. In one swift move, Sharma successfully combined the three equally delicious, yet differing cuisines of Indian, Arabian and Mediterranean food, allowing us to explore (and boy did we explore) tastes, flavours and even textures we didn’t think even existed on this tiny island. What’s more, according to the owner, everything on the menu is halal and absolutely no alcohol is on display (unless you, like us, specifically ask for it). You can also bring along the bottle of wine from home, which you’ve been saving for a special occasion. Within minutes, a beaming waiter brought over out starters – baba ganoush, bonda, mahshe and 9-10 servings of naan garlic bread (we just
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couldn’t get enough!) The ganoush, well-known and wellloved for being that delicious smoky aubergine dip that no-one ever quite manages to master, coupled with a serving of warm garlic naan bread and you may as well call it quits, your life will never be the same again. The typically Indian bonda were also to die for, with their fluffy chickpea batter interior and crispy exterior. Just a tip: many tend to disregard the sauce which accompanies starters, possibly out of fear of the unknown. Do not make the same mistake here. Looking for more of a mild, somewhat less guilty starter? The mahshe might be for you. Bragioli-esque in nature, the Arabian appetizer is made of piping hot marrows, stuffed with tender minced beef, rice, onions, fresh herbs and baked with tender loving care. Another tip: adding naan bread to every dish completely defeats the purpose of trying to ‘eat light’. After a short intermission, and yet another serving of baba ganoush, we thought it time to take on our mains: tikka masala, haryali tikka, shish kebab and a side of ruzz asfar. I know what you’re thinking. Tikka masala, really? In spite of masala being everyone’s go-to order when eating at any kind of oriental or Indian restaurant, I cannot stress enough just how delicious Sharma’s rendition of it is. Sumptuous chicken thighs, marinated in tangy yoghurt and masala spices, it’s the perfect order, even for those who aren’t the greatest fan of all things hot and
spicy. The real winner, however, is the haryali tikka, cooked to perfection in a tandoori oven and served on a sizzler. I couldn’t help but excitedly whip my phone out to capture an image of the fascinating smoking plate. It’s like dinner and a show all rolled into one. The main concept behind the restaurant is that of sharing and combining cuisines, allowing patrons to discover varying foods and the magical ways in which they can be combined to create fusions you could only dream of. This was perfectly exhibited in our mains as we piled on generous servings of the Arabian ruzz safar - sticky rice, seasoned with saffron and turmeric – with our Indian haryali tikka and charcoal grilled shish kebab. Concept of combining cuisines to create delicious combinations of food? Mastered. The concept of sharing these delicious combinations with others? Not so much. But I digress. Despite feeling as though we may need to be airlifted out the restaurant, we thought it best to order dessert anyway. An exquisite mix of Arabian sweets, made with the winning combination of honey and almonds as well as kulfi malai, a healthy serving of Indian icecream made from thick (key word: thick) sweetened milk and topped with nut shavings. It may have been cold outside, but my stomach, hands and heart were warm, as I made a mental note to re-visit Sharma next weekend… and the next… and the next.
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Sharma Portomaso Marina, Level -5 St Julian’s Tel: 21453817
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PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
SCIANTUSI CELEBRATE THEIR FIRST ANNIVERSARY In a market where restaurants close down as fast as they open up, celebrating any kind of anniversary is special. Sciantusi have not only made it through their first year, they have garnered awards from Gambero Rosso and have a visitor from Associazone Verace Pizza Napolitana. That’s something worth celebrating. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE celebrates with pizza
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here’s nothing quite as satisfying as digging into a piping hot slice of pizza, especially after a long hard day at the office, indulging in only a handful of almonds and green tea. Without a single degree of shame or guilt, my guest and I raced into Sciantusi like rabid dogs, desperate for our fix of everything Italian. This time, however, things were a little bit different. Sciantusi were celebrating and boy, did they have heaps to celebrate. Firstly, they were celebrating their first anniversary, which is no small feat considering there are as many Italian restaurants in Malta as there are beaches and yet, not half as many are as successful. Secondly, they were celebrating their Gambero Rosso award, an Italian honour that is held in extremely high esteem and thirdly, they were welcoming a very special guest: none other than Maestro Salvatore De Rinaldi, from the “Associazone Verace Pizza Napoletana”, the Neopolitan governing board. Still with me? Good, because there’s more where that came from. In addition to the honour of even being invited to such an event, we were also presented with four completely
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revolutionary pizza slices, each paired with their wine soul mate. First up, pizza montanara, a classic pizza Napoletana. Living up to the less is more motto, this pizza couldn’t be more Italian if it tried. Featuring the classic mozzarella di Bufala, the sheer authenticity of the products used came through loud and clear. As we cleansed our palate, with a second glass of wine (how else does one clean their palate, really?), the second pizza of the night made its way to our table. The Domenico Pangallo, named after their head pizzaiolo comes complete with roasted Parma ham, fior di latte mozzarella, white asparagus and caramelised carrots. As I sit here writing this review, I find myself reaching for a tissue to wipe a tear from my cheek, as I realise that I will never in my life taste a slice of pizza as delicious. The sweetness of the carrots contrasted perfectly with the smoky taste of the Parma ham, all of which was complemented by a glass of 2016 Gewürztraminer wine. Yearning for more, even though we were breaking every diet rule in the book, Sciantusi knew what we were looking for and delivered just that and then some. The third dish of the night was their very own spin on the sorrentina pizza. Fior di
latte mozzarella, an eclectic combination of yellow and red tomatoes and conciato romano cheese, combined with a chilled glass of Rosa dei Masi Rosé. What more could you possibly ask for on a wintery evening, I wonder? The fourth and final pizza was the absolute star of the night. Made with nove ceriali, a fior di latte base, beef carpaccio, rucola and a generous helping of tartufo, I guarantee no slice of pizza will ever come close. Coupled with a glass of Nero d’Avola and there you have it, that is what heaven tastes like. As the evening came to a close, and we indulged (for the fifth time in one evening) in a slice of celebratory cake, I couldn’t help but note how the Sciantusi owners, who coincidentally are one big, born-and-bred Italian family, really do have the winning hand. The magical charm, the incomparably delicious food, the use of solely authentic DOP (denominazione di origine protetta) products put together by head chef Davide Tavano, who has been with Sciantusi since the very beginning, and his sous chef Carla Guzzardo, who is Davide’s right hand woman and also a whizz in the dessert kitchen, make Sciantusi the place to be on a Friday night (or any day of the week).
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Sciantusi 2, Milner Street, Sliema Tel: 21313181
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TAKING THE STRESS OUT OF THE FESTIVE SEASON
Everyone loves a bit of a feast over the Christmas period. Not everyone, however enjoys preparing it. The Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort is the perfect option if you’re not getting excited about the piles of dirty dishes that are bound to accumulate over the festive period. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE has the low down.
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t’s that time of year again. A time for giving, spending precious quality time with loved ones… and consuming your weight in turkey. The one thing that puts a dampener on all the Christmas cheer? Slaving away in the kitchen for days, only to spend a week (or two) scrubbing 250 dirty dishes and eating leftovers. Not to fear! The Marina Hotel has swooped in to save the day. With such a vast choice of venues and events to choose from, you could spend from dawn to dusk eating and dancing your way from Christmas Eve till New Year’s Day and not have even scratched the surface of what’s on offer this year. Hold on to your coats and scarves ladies and gentlemen, this is going to be good. It’s just before Christmas Eve and you haven’t yet finished your Christmas shopping. What a travesty! (Not to worry, you’re not alone) Before the panic sets in, stop by Café 24 and indulge in that warm German stollen and a glass of mulled wine. Go on, you deserve it. Once the shopping is done, the presents are wrapped and the mince pies are decorated, it’s time to look forward to sitting back, relaxing and feasting (and maybe undoing that top button). First up on the festive calendar: Christmas eve. There are two kinds of people in this world. Those who live for the late night/ early morning Christmas eve breakfast and those who would rather opt for a huge evening feast. I personally form part of the former team as it means you’re that much closer to the socially acceptable time for the ripping open of Christmas presents. Lucky for everyone, Marina Hotel caters for both teams. Alongside stunning views of St George’s Bay, the Bayview restaurant offers a vast selection of salumerie, no less than 18 kinds of freshly baked bread and pastries, as well as roast leg of gammon, beef and Cumberland sausages, homemade mince pies and fresh fruit. They even have a little 22 www.gourmettoday.recipes
something for those of you who are fully committed to not gaining an extra 5kg this Christmas. Breakfast is served between midnight and 3am, meaning that by the time you’ve finished off our sautéed garlic mushrooms, you just might be allowed to open that one gift you’ve been eyeing all week. If it’s a Christmas eve dinner buffet you’re after, Bayview hasn’t forgotten you. Served between 7pm and 10:30pm and featuring live music, as well as an array of delicious options, ranging from cold cuts to roast turkey crown to pastries, flans and gateaux, I fail to understand why you haven’t yet called to make a booking. Next up: Christmas day. This is the one you’ve all been waiting for, folks! Your needs and desires have been recognised by Marina Hotel and therefore, whether it’s a ginormous, delectable Christmas lunch buffet you and your family are looking forward to or a more civilized, sit-down a la carte meal, yet again they’ve got you covered. Served from 12:30pm till 3pm at Vinotheque Bistro, the a la carte meal is just what you need to set the mood right if delicious food in a relaxed, stylish environment is what you’re looking for. What’s more, judging by the weather we’re having, you may even find yourself sipping Prosecco on the outside terrace. If that isn’t the true meaning of happiness I don’t know what is.
Just when you thought you have consumed all that you’re capable of consuming, New Year rears its head. Time to break out the ginger tea, your digestive system is not off the hook just yet! Again, Bayview cuts no corners with its New Year’s Eve dinner buffet. With something for everyone, Bayview offers a wide selection of options, each one more enticing than the last, including a neverending list of freshly prepared Italian-style antipasti, fish, prawns and mussels, beef wellington, duck confit and special New Year’s themed sweets. Vinotheque, on the other hand, offers a set menu of closed pressed duck terrine, sea bass or beef fillet and Mediterranean prawn and seafood ravioli (as well as a New Year’s Delight… but I don’t want to ruin the surprise). Time is of the essence however, as there are only two seating times available so you’d better get cracking! Your food coma has subsided and the last thing you want to do is go home? Vinotheque Clients can join in the party atmosphere of Bayview. Continue the party and boogie your way right into 2018, all the while with your mind at rest, knowing that your car is parked for free just a few metres down the road. We’re almost there, I promise. New Year’s Day swings around and what better way to spend the first day of the year than feasting… yet again? You might as well give into it at this point. Here are your options: a buffet lunch served at Bayview between 1pm and 3pm, an à la carte meal, served between 12:30pm and 3pm at Vinotheque, and just in case you were in the mood for a little Italian flair, there’s Da Marina Cucina Italiana too. Dine al fresco on the beautiful terrace overlooking the bay, or in the stylish restaurant for Christmas Day or New Year’s Day, or both (why not?) as they offer a mouth-watering array of antipasti and mains. And just like that, 2018 is upon us. Just think of all the time, effort, hassle and dirty dishes you’ve saved, simply by spending a magical Christmas at Marina Hotel.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: BRIAN GRECH
Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort St George’s Bay, St Julians, STJ3301 Tel: 2370 2000 Web: http://www.marinahotel.com.mt DiscoverMarina
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DINE LIKE A CORSAIR AT THE MALTA MARIT IME MUSEUM
Looking for something different to do over the festive period? The Malta Maritime Museum has joined forces with food historians and qualified chefs to recreate a meal of a bygone and eventful era that impinged dramatically upon the shaping of present day Mediterranean and Maltese culture. LIAM GAUCI, Principal Curator at the Malta Maritime Museum tells us what to expect.
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orsair’s Dinners at the Malta Maritime Museum are indeed inspired by the multi-faceted collections in our archives and museums, in particular the detailed records of all food items loaded aboard corsairs’ vessels. A well-fed crew was a happy crew and good provisions went a long way in the successful running of a corsair ship. In 1782, for instance, Captain Leopoldo Desira bought lampuki, semolina bread, tomatoes, broccoli, pepper, radishes and succulent than male grappa, whereas a couple pigs. According to of years later Captain Agius de Soldanis, the Gaetan Cavasso loaded first librarian at the strawberries, Roman A Maltese corsairs Bibliotheca in Valletta, cheese, pork sausages battle, circa 1760s the locals cooked and port wine. Another it in earthenware dishes in the shape captain, Giorgio Mitrovish, bought lavish of a small galley, thereby the name of food for the Knights who joined the corso the dish. The pork is soaked in its own excursion, including pigeons, pork brains, blood topped with milk, and placed on a hams, strawberries, mint, calamari, dentex bed of rice or onions. Once covered it is fish and mackerel fish for the broth. steamed and cooked until tender. Agius de Provisions were sourced from Malta, Soldanis further explains that for the local Gozo and several other ports around the population this was deemed a delicacy. Mediterranean. In 1778 Captain German’s Although initially associated with peasants, felucca entered Xlendi Harbour at Gozo the Qasqusa fuq ix-Xini found its way to for a few hours to stock on artichokes, the most opulent and refined tables of sardines, tobacco and pipes for his crew. Malta and beyond by the 18th century. Likewise, in October 1794 Captain A wide array of alocholic drinks were Giuseppe Grech bought three pigs at also available on board. Wine, aquavit/ Antikytheria, an island in Greece. He grappa, rum, maraschino and port wine intended to salt the meat and preserve it are just a few examples. While wine was for the cruise. The chief steward knew that consumed in great quantities, corsairs were October was the perfect time to butcher also extremely fond of grappa and rum. At the pork meat and have it preserved in the Corsair’s Dinner at the Malta Maritime salt. It is this document that inspires the Museum clients are spoiled for choice with air-dried salsiccia served during Corsair’s a variety of free-flowing wine. Dinners. Hot beverages were also provided on A popular recipe based on pork which board, especially coffee with a strong dose we are told was exported to the most of sugar. Tea, although less popular, was opulent tables of Europe is the Qasqusa also available. fuq ix-Xini, meaning literally ‘sow on a Special victuals were also earmarked galley’. Sows are much more tender and
for the ailing sailors. A sick sailor was provided with a chicken broth served with long thin pasta and a quarter of a small roasted chicken. Furthermore, a doctor at Lazaretto administered to sick sailors almond oil as well as ice. It is for this reason that the Malta Maritime Museum is providing guest with a varied choice of ice creams which were already being produced in Malta at the time. Amongst the numerous recipes of iced delicacies one finds cinnamon and goats’ milk ices, Parmesan ices, chocolate ices and pistachio ices. Information on the food served to the higher echelons of the crew is also available. Captains treated themselves to finesse at the table, and some went as far as hiring a personal cook who would cater for the captain and the needs of the officials. Apart from a rich culinary experience, the higher echelons of the crew usually also used all the refinement expected at table like silver cutlery. Indeed, a silver dinner service at table was expected on board the larger corsair ships. To cut a long story short, Heritage Malta is giving the public an opportunity to taste history! For more information contact Liam Gauci on 21809090 or dinner@heritagemalta.org.
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THE BIG BIRD
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TURKEY TIPS Christmas day is a stressful one with lots happening in the kitchen. To make sure your Christmas lunch, aka the turkey, is perfect, we’ve put together some tips to make sure the bird remains succulent and packed with flavour. SOURCING THE BIRD Knowing where your food is coming from is important at all times of the year. Christmas day shouldn’t be any different. Try and source an organic, free range bird if possible. SIZE MATTERS How big does the turkey really need to be? Calculate 450g per person (don’t forget there are plenty of bones in the turkey so this won’t translate into a 450g meal!). It will, however, leave plenty of meat for seconds and leftovers. If you’re cooking for a large crowd, try cooking two small turkeys instead of one large one. A larger bird tends to cook unevenly. Stick to birds between four and six kilos for best results. BRINE On the other side of the pond, the Americans brine almost all of their meat. This is a step we seem to miss out in Europe. During brining, the turkey absorbs extra moisture, which in turn helps it stay more moist and juicy both during and after cooking. Since the turkey absorbs salt along with the water, it also gets nicely seasoned from the inside out. Dry brining is a better option than a traditional wet brine. When wet brined, a turkey absorbs a lot of the water and thus the flavour is slightly reduced.
TO STUFF OR NOT TO STUFF? Stuffing placed in the cavity of the bird will increase cooking time and will likely result in the turkey meat drying out by the time the stuffing is cooked. The easiest way to enjoy succulent turkey meat AND stuffing is to cook the stuffing in a separate pan. If you really want to cook the stuffing with the turkey, gently lift the skin off the breast and put the stuffing between the skin and the meat, taking care not to puncture the skin. WHEN’S IT READY? Although you can get a pretty good estimate of how long the turkey should take to cook, to be sure you’re best off using a thermometer. The bird is done when a thermometer placed in the thickest part of the turkey breast reads 65°C. If you get your turkey from a good butcher, they will give you a pretty good estimate of how long you need to cook your bird.
ROASTING PAN A good roasting pan is invaluable. Get one where your bird fits snugly. Ideally have a metal rack in the roasting pan so the bird does not sit at the bottom of the pan and burn at the bottom.
LET IT REST The bird’s done a good job in the oven. Give it time to rest before you carve. This will allow the juices to redistribute and make sure the meat remains moist. 30 minutes to 1 hour wrapped in foil should do the trick.
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DRY-BRINED ROAST TURKEY Ingredients Dry brine • ¾ cup coarse sea salt • 3 tbsp light brown sugar • 1 tbsp fennel seeds • 1 tbsp star anise • 1 Clementine, zested Turkey • 6kg turkey • 1 head garlic • 2 onions • 1 Clementine • 1 lemon • 2 sprigs rosemary • 100g butter • Salt and pepper • 1 cup chicken stock • ½ cup red wine Basting liquid • 2 sprigs rosemary • ½ cup butter • 2 tsp soy sauce Method 1. Start by mixing together the ingredients for the dry brine. 2. Cover the turkey making sure to get the brine all over the bird.
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15.
Place in the fridge, uncovered, for at least 12 hours and up to 2 days. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Wash the brine off of the turkey and pat dry. Cut the garlic head in half and place inside the cavity of the turkey. Cut the Clementine and lemon into wedges and place inside the turkey. Place the rosemary into the turkey. Cut the onions into wedges and place a few into the turkey and the rest in the roasting pan. Rub the turkey breast all over with the butter and season with salt and pepper. Place the stock and the wine into the roasting pan. Roast at 220°C for 35 mins until the skin has browned all over. Make the basting liquid by placing all the ingredients into a small saucepan and allow to bubble until fragrant. Set aside and keep warm. Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C and continue to cook for approx. 3 hours, basting with the rosemary butter every 30 mins, until a thermometer placed into the thickest part of the flesh reads 65°C. If the skin is getting too brown, cover the turkey with foil and return to the oven. Remove from the oven an cover in foil and allow the turkey to rest for 45 mins so that the juices are allowed to redistribute before carving.
SPICY CRANBERRY SAUCE The sour-tart flavour of the cranberries paired with the sugar and spices make this sauce an ideal accompaniment for Christmas turkey. Making your own cranberry sauce is so easy you’ll never consider buying store bought sauce again. What’s even better is that you can make this up to a week in advance, leaving you plenty of time to deal with other stuff on turkey day. Ingredients • 250g cranberries • 2 Clementines, juice only • 1 cinnamon stick • 1 tsp ground cloves • 150g sugar Method 1. Place the sugar and the Clementine juice into a saucepan and heat until the sugar is dissolved. 2. Add the cranberries and toss. 3. Add the spices and toss and allow to simmer until the berries start to release their liquid but are still holding some of their shape. 4. The sauce will thicken as it cools. 5. Allow to cool and serve with roast turkey.
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A TA S T E O F CHRISTMAS Christmas is coming and with its happy arrival, a plethora of celebrations and presents. Here at InterContinental Malta we are delighted to provide you with the finest festive season events and specially crafted restaurant menus around. So, celebrate with our wide array of Christmas culinary delights and unparalleled levels of service,while we proudly do the hard work this Christmas! For more information or to make a reservation, please call us on 21 377 600 or visit malta.intercontinental.com.
Live the InterContinental life.
MALTA WASHINGTON NEW YORK BORDEAUX LONDON PARIS MARSEILLE DAVOS DUBAI KOH SAMUI SINGAPORE
PIPPA MATTEI
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
CHRISTMAS TIME ON A HEREFORD FARM Recently visited dear cousins on their farm in Hereford in the UK. Surrounded by green landscape, trees, a duck pond and river with the donkey, horses, ducks and chickens housed in the grounds around the house, I conjured up what would be a perfect English lunch for the Christmas season.
Get more of Pippa’s Christmas recipes in her book ‘Pippa’s Festa’
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PIPPA MATTEI
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SMOKED SALMON AND PRAWN SURPRISE Serves 8-10 Ingredients • 300g Scottish smoked salmon • 170g packet smoked salmon trimmings • 50g butter, softened • 250g full-fat cream cheese • ½ lemon, juice only, plus pieces of lemon slices to serve • Black pepper • 200g shelled cooked North Atlantic prawns • Small bunch dill, finely chopped • Handful of dressed rocket to serve (drizzled with your favourite dressing) Method 1. Line the base and sides of the ramekins with cling film, then line the base and sides again with smoked salmon, trimming away any excess salmon. 2. Put the smoked salmon trimmings and butter in a processor, and whiz until well mixed but still chunky. 3. Add the cream cheese, lemon juice and pepper and 36 www.gourmettoday.recipes
4.
5. 6.
whiz again. Drain the prawns really well on kitchen paper and chop each into 2 or 3 pieces about the size of peas. Remove the blade from the processor and stir in the prawns and dill. Spoon into the salmon-lined ramekins and level the top. Fold any overhanging cling film over the top and transfer to the fridge. To serve, tip the ramekins upside down on individual plates, remove the cling film and serve garnished with dressed rocket and little lemon pieces.
Get Ahead
These can be prepared a day ahead and kept in the fridge. They also freeze well for up to a month.
Trade Enquiries: Red October Co. Ltd
Tel: 2147 0400 Email: info@redoct.net
/RedOctoberMalta
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PIPPA MATTEI ENGLISH ROAST BEEF Serves 8-10 Ingredients • Approx 2.4kg roasting beef – preferably good Hereford beef – sirloin or rump • 1 tbsp plain flour • 1 tbsp dry English mustard powder • 1 onion, peeled and cut in half • Salt and pepper • Fresh thyme and rosemary or herbes de Provence • 6 garlic cloves, peeled • Olive oil • Lard Method 1. Pre-heat oven to 240°C. 2. Place your beef in a solid roasting pan 3. Rub with a mixture of flour and mustard powder,
4. 5. 6.
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generously season with salt and pepper, herbes de Provence or fresh thyme and rosemary, pour over a good glug of olive oil and top with some lard. Place the two halves of the onion just under the meat. Place meat in the hot oven and leave for 20 mins, then turn the heat down to 190°C. Continue to cook, allowing 13 mins for every 450g of beef. A 2.4kg piece will take approx. 1.15 hours. Carefully open oven and ‘baste’ the meat every half hour. Once cooked, put meat on your carving board and cover loosely with foil to let it settle for at least ½ hour so as to allow the juices to seep into the joint, before carving. Your roasting tin will now have some fat. Pour out most of this into a jug (for the Yorkshire puddings see below) leaving about 2 tbsp in the tin to make the gravy.
PERFECT ROAST POTATOES Ingredients • 2-3 medium potatoes per person • Goose fat • Semolina (optional) Method 1. Peel 2-3 medium potatoes per person, and put them into a large pot. 2. Pour over boiling water to just cover, and boil for 10 mins till outside of potatoes are soft when pierced with a skewer. 3. Sieve the water out into a jug (to use for the gravy.) 4. Put the lid onto the pot and shake vigorously
5. 6.
7.
till edges of potatoes are ‘fluffy’. Sprinkle some semolina over them, if using. Put the goose fat into another oven proof heavy dish and put this onto a burner and heat till smoking hot. VERY carefully put the potatoes into this oven dish and place into a hot oven where the meat is cooking. (If you have a fan oven, you can put this on so the potatoes will cook from below). Let the potatoes cook for a couple of hours till golden and crispy. If lunch is not ready, lower the oven and leave the potatoes in there as if you take them out, they will lose their crispiness.
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THE GRAVY Ingredients • Drippings from your roast • 2 tbsp plain flour • A glug of brandy • Water that has been used to boil the potatoes or any other vegetables • Salt and pepper • Any other gravy seasoning like Worcestershire sauce, Maggi, Bisto or Bovril Method 1. Once you remove the meat and transfer to the carving board and you take out most of the fat for the Yorkshire puddings, place the dish on two
2. 3. 4.
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burners and heat up, adding the flour and mixing this into the remaining fat Add a glug of brandy and allow to evaporate. Add the water that you had boiled the potatoes in. Mixing all the time, and pressing down on the onions in the pan, season the gravy with salt and pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and any other flavouring of your choice, like Maggi, and Bisto mixed with a little cold water before adding it to the gravy (this will thicken the gravy). Test for seasoning, and now carefully through a sieve pour the gravy into a microwave-proof jug and set aside until needed when you are ready to serve. Warm in the microwave before serving.
THE YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS Makes 8 puddings Ingredients • 250ml milk • 1 egg • 100g plain flour • ½ tsp salt Method 1. Place all ingredients in a liquidiser (adding the flour last) and switch to maximum speed for 30 seconds, set aside. 2. Half an hour before serving the meal, raise the temperature of the oven to 200C, put cooking potatoes at the bottom of the oven. 3. Divide the fat you have set aside from the meat, into the Yorkshire pudding tins you are going to
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4. 5. 6.
make your Yorkshire puds in, and put into the oven and heat till smoking hot. Carefully take out of oven and then pour your pudding mix into the tin/tins dividing the batter between all the tins. Cook for 30 mins without opening the oven, until well risen and golden. Remove from oven, flip out and serve with your thinly carved meat, crispy roast potatoes, vegetables and with the hot gravy poured all over them!
To accompany the roast and potatoes etc cook any vegetables of your choice. Cooked frozen peas with a touch of fresh mint and sliced carrots glazed with honey, lemon juice, salt and pepper and a little water would be nice.
PIPPA MATTEI
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PIPPA MATTEI NANNA HILDA’S ROUND CHRISTMAS PUDDING Ingredients • 400g sultana • 400g currants • 400g raisins • 400g brown sugar • 400g breadcrumbs • 1 packet Atora (suet) • Pinch mixed spice • Pinch cinnamon • 150g good candied peel • 100g roasted chopped almonds • ½ glass rum • 8 eggs • ½ orange, juice and zest • ½ lemon, juice and zest • ½ tangerine, juice and zest • Pinch of salt Method 1. Mix all dry ingredients, then add the liquid ones, mix well and leave overnight. 2. Next day, get a strong white cloth and spread margarine over the centre, then dust with flour shaking off the excess. 3. Put your pudding mixture into a pudding basin,
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pack tight and upturn onto your prepare cloth. Remove basin and tie the pudding with strong string as tightly as possible. Tie ends of the cloth around the long wooden spoon or rod (Dick Whittington style). Prepare a large pot and fill with boiling water. Lower the pudding on the stick into this, allowing it to swing freely. Cook for 5 hours. When time is up plunge the pudding into cold water and after 5 mins, peel off the cloth. The pudding will be pale, but darkens on being uncovered. Serve hot with brandy butter, or rum custard after pouring boiling brandy over it setting it alight.
This is a ve fashioned recipery olfodr a Christmas pudding given to me by M Vassallo. The readcialpeeinweas handed down to her by her Nanna Hilda.
RUM CUSTARD Ingredients • 50g butter • 3 tbsp plain flour • 2 tbsp caster sugar • 500ml fresh milk • 3 tbsp rum Method 1. In a medium saucepan, slowly melt the butter and in another pan warm the milk. 2. Add the flour to the butter and stir briskly with a wooden spoon until you have a fairly smooth mixture. 3. Start to add the warm milk a little at a time, stirring until smooth with each addition. 4. When all the milk is in, and the mixture is smooth and creamy, stir in the sugar. 5. Turn the heat down very low and let the mixture cook for 10 mins, constantly stirring slowly to prevent it sticking. 6. Add the rum and taste to check if it needs a little more sugar (or rum!). 7. Serve with the Christmas pudding.
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Pizza lovers meet al solito posto
All recipes and dishes are typically Sicilian and they are prepared with the same care and attention as if they were proper homemade cooked meals. The range of choice in the menu is also pretty wide: from delicious starters to genuine pasta dishes, not to mention the pizza, their real speciality, available in many different topping combinations!
Al solito posto Milner Street, Sliema. Tel: 27130669. Facebook: alsolitopostomalta
SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE
Christmas is the time for a little indulgence. Sweets are everywhere, but they are you already sick of all the same old sweets? Christmas has a very particular flavour; cinnamon, cloves, ginger. Add these spices to sweets at any time of year and you immediately hear Jingle Bells playing in your head. These are some sugary spicy treats that you can make this year that will spice up your Christmas sweet game.
PHOTOGRAPHY: RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR
CHRISTMAS SHORTBREAD COOKIES Ingredients • 225g butter, softened • ½ cup superfine sugar • 2 cups plain flour • ½ tsp salt • 2 tbsp red sugar pearls or sprinkles • 2 tbsp green sugar pearls or sprinkles Icing sugar Method 1. Cream the butter and the sugar until pale and fluffy in an electric mixer. 2. Add the flour and the sugar pearls or sprinkles and mix until just combined.
3.
Tip out onto a lightly floured surface and press together until a dough is formed. 4. Roll out the dough between two sheets of baking paper and place in the fridge for 30 mins. 5. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 6. Remove from the fridge and take off the top layer of baking paper. 7. Cut Christmas shapes into the cookie dough using cookie cutters. 8. Bake in the oven for 15 mins until golden. 9. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a couple of mins on the baking tray before transferring to a wire rack. 10. Dust with icing sugar.
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GINGERBREAD MEN Ingredients • 350g plain flour • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda • 2 tsp ground ginger • 1 tsp cinnamon • 125g butter • 175g soft light brown sugar • 1 egg • 4 tbsp golden syrup • 200g royal icing • 1 tbsp lemon juice • Water as necessary Method 1. Mix together the flour, ginger, cinnamon and bicarbonate of soda in a food processor. 2. Add the butter and blitz until the mixture looks like breadcrumbs. 3. Stir in the sugar.
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Slightly beat the egg and add to the mixture. Add the golden syrup and blitz until combined. The mixture should clump together and form a ball. Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for a couple of mins until smooth. Wrap in cling film and put in the fridge for 15 mins. Preheat the oven to 180C. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface until approx. ½ a cm thick. Cut out gingerbread man shapes with a cookie cutter. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking paper, leaving some room between each one. Bake for 12 mins until golden. Allow to cool for a few mins and then transfer to a wire rack until cold. To make the icing mix the royal icing sugar with the lemon juice and as much water as you need to get the desired consistency. Pipe onto the gingerbread men in any way you like.
GINGER CAKE WITH CINNAMON FROSTING Ingredients • 350g plain flour • 350g dark brown sugar • 2 tsp ground ginger • 2 tsp ground cinnamon • 1 tsp ground cloves • ½ salt • 1 tsp baking powder • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda • 200g butter, cubed • 3 eggs • 2 tbsp treacle • 200ml milk • 2 tbsp orange juice • 1 orange, zest only • 1 tsp vanilla extract Cinnamon frosting • 400g double cream • 200g icing sugar • 360g cream cheese • ½ tbsp cinnamon Method 1. Preheat the oven to 180C and prepare three springform baking pans, lined with baking paper and greased well. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, mix together the dry ingredients (flour, sugar, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt). 3. Add the butter and mix until the mixture looks like wet sand. 4. Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl if the mixture starts to stick. 5. Add the milk, orange juice, orange zest and vanilla and beat until the mixture is smooth. 6. Divide the mixture in the three pans and bake in the oven for 25 mins until a skewer poked into the
7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.
centre of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the pan for 10 mins before removing and placing on a wire rack to cool completely. To make the frosting, whip the double cream and the icing sugar until you have soft peaks. Remove from the mixer and beat the cream cheese with the cinnamon. Slowly add the whipped cream, beating as you go along. Don’t overbeat. When the cake is completely cold, place a large dollop of the frosting onto the bottom tier and top with the second tier. Repeat with the third tier. Place some more frosting over the top and the sides and smooth over. Decorate with ginger biscuits.
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Flamant Malta, Pjazza Tigné, The Point, Sliema (+356) 2395 7630 | info@flamant.com.mt | www.flamant.com.mt |
½ Flamant Malta
PARIS | BARCELONA | CASABLANCA | DUBAI | HAMBURG | KUWAIT | LJUBLJANA LONDON | PRAAG | REYKJAVIC | SÃO PAULO | SLIEMA | TUNIS | ZÜRICH
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SPEND YOUR NEW YEAR’S EVE
�ith �s
For enquiries or to book your table please call 2157 4882 or email info@giuseppisrestaurant.com
PRIVATE
dining
CELEBRATE ANY OCCASION IN STYLE Check out our website www.giuseppisrestaurant.com
TABLE-HOPPING
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
RINGING IN THE NEW YEAR We all love Christmas time, especially when someone does all the cooking for us. But, there are days when we all have to don our chef’s hats and aprons and get our hands dirty. Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s, has put together a menu that will make your entertaining as stress free and calm as possible. Ideal for a New Year’s Eve dinner, the plan is to get as much of the prep done in good time, leaving only the minimal amount of cooking to the last minutes. Splash out and buy the best you can find, it is the festive season after all, and then let your ingredients speak for themselves.
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KING SCALLOPS WITH HAZELNUT BUTTER AND CAVIAR Serves 4 Ingredients • 12 king scallops in shell • 200g unsalted butter • ½ lemon, zest only • Salt and pepper • 100g hazelnuts, toasted • Parsley, finely chopped Method 1. Place the butter into a food processor. 2. Add the lemon zest and season. 3. Blitz till soft then fold in the parsley and nuts by hand. Do not blend as the end result would be too uniform. 4. Lay a sheet of cling film onto a flat surface and place the butter into the middle. Form a sausage shape then roll up in the cling film. Tie up the edges and store in the fridge till needed. 5. Dislodge the scallops from their shells and rinse to get rid of any grit. Remove the coral if you wish. I like to leave it attached. 6. Place three scallops into each shell, season lightly with salt and pepper. 7. Remove the butter from the fridge and cut into 1 cm thick slices and place 1 or 2 onto each shell, depending on how buttery you like them. You may prepare them to this stage up to 4 hours before needed. 8. Preheat an overhead grill. Place the scallops into a large pan that fits them all. 9. Cook on the hob for 5 minutes then place under the grill to finish melting the butter and to colour. 10. We served on sea salt to keep the shells steady, garnished with avruga caviar, samphire and finely diced tomatoes and sweet peppers to add colour.
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Congrats it’s a DOK Malta!
Wines of Distinction DOK Malta • DOK Gozo IGT Maltese Islands dokmaltadokgozo dokmaltadokgozo.gov.mt
Brought to you by
Lentils are always served on N Eve in Italy. eTwheYey arares said to bring good luck!
SEARED COD ON LENTILS WITH A MUSTARD INFUSED SAUCE Serves 4 Ingredients • 4 fresh cod fillets approx. 300g each • Salt and pepper • Extra virgin olive oil • 300g brown lentils • 2 fresh bay leaves • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • 10g butter • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped • 2 fresh thyme sprigs • 150g guanciale, cut into thin strips • Salt and pepper • Finely chopped parsley to finish Mustard sauce • 300ml fresh cream • 15g butter • 2 tsp English mustard • Salt and pepper
Method 1. Firstly prepare the lentils, which may be cooked the day before and simply reheated when needed.
2.
Place the lentils into a pot. Cover with twice the amount of water. Season with salt and the bay leaves. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 30 minutes till cooked, but still al dente. Drain and cool. 3. Heat the oil with the butter. Add the garlic and thyme. 4. To prepare the mustard sauce, place all the ingredients into a small pot and heat gently, stirring often, till slightly thickened. Set aside until needed. 5. Stir fry for a minute or two then add the guanciale. Cook to render the fat and colour the meat before adding the boiled lentils. 6. Stir well to coat with all the cooking juices. Check seasoning and adjust. Add the parsley before plating. 7. To cook the fish heat a non stick baking sheet for 15 mins in an oven set at 180°C. 8. Season the fish and brush with olive oil. Place the fish skin down on the hot baking sheet and return to the oven. 9. Bake for 10 mins before removing from the oven. 10. Rest for 5 mins before serving skin side up on the hot lentils with the mustard sauce. Be careful when handling the cod as it is very fragile and breaks easily.
SPICE INFUSED PANNA COTTA WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND ROASTED CHESTNUTS The following recipe uses spices associated with Christmas, whilst the chocolate sauce is a play on the traditional Mbuljuta. Serves 8 Ingredients • 500ml fresh cream • 200ml fresh whole milk • 150g sugar • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • ¼ tsp ground cloves • 1 star anise • 4 sheets leaf gelatin Chocolate sauce • 200g dark chocolate • 200g fresh cream • 200g liquid glucose • 45g water • ½ tsp mixed spice • Peel of ½ a mandarin, finely chopped • 1 tbs cognac Method 1. Place the cream, milk, sugar and spices into a pot and gently bring to the boil then turn off the heat and leave to infuse for 5 mins. 56 www.gourmettoday.recipes
2. 3.
Have 8 dariole moulds ready. Soak the gelatin in tap cold water till softened, remove using your hands and squeeze out any extra water. 4. Whisk into the still hot cream. Pass through a sieve into a measuring jug. 5. Fill up the moulds and place into the fridge. Leave overnight to set. 6. To make the chocolate sauce, place all the ingredients into a pot and heat gently till chocolate is melted and sauce is smooth and glossy. Cool and store in the fridge till needed. Simply reheat before serving. 7. Cut a cross into 10 fresh chestnuts and a bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. 8. Cool slightly before peeling, then chop. 9. To serve, dip the panna cotta into hot water for 1 second and unmould onto a serving plate. 10. Pour the warmed chocolate sauce into individual ramekins and top with the chopped chestnuts. 11. Dredge with icing sugar and garnish with a few pomegranate arils.
PICKING GRAPES
Much like a person, every wine variety has its own characteristics. Here we profile one grape variety and even pick some of our favourites.
e n g a p m a Ch
T
he festive season is time for a bit of bubbly and as this is a special occasion, it’s no time for the cheap imitation stuff. It’s time to pull out all the stops and go for the real deal – Champagne. Champagne is not a grape in itself but a region in France where the sparkling wine is produced. To be classified as a champagne, the wine needs to be made from specific grapes, namely Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier or Chardonnay, grown in specifically designated plots within the appellation, while adhering to strict procedure including secondary fermentation in the bottle which produces the carbonated effect. Although legend credits Dom Pérignon with the invention of champagne, it was actually the Benedictine Monks from the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire, near Carcassonne, in 1531, who are responsible for so many festive hangovers, by bottling the wine before the initial fermentation was complete. Over a century later, English
TASTE PROFILE
Since Champagne is aged longer on the yeast particles (called lees), it will often have a cheese rind like flavour that in finer examples comes across as toasty or biscuity. Since the wines are aged in bottles under high pressure the bubble finesse is fine, persistent and sharp. Vintage-dated Champagnes often have almond-like flavours along with orange-zest and white cherry.
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scientist and physician Christopher Merret documented the addition of sugar to create a second fermentation in what is now called méthode champenoise in 1662. Dom Pérignon did not set foot into the abbey until 1668. He did, however, make several important innovations in Champagne production, such as developing the technique used to make white wine from red grapes and blending grapes to make a superior wine. The carbonation was considered to be a fault by the French wine makers which they were trying to correct, however, across the channel, in England, the sparkling wine was gaining popularity, especially among the wealthy and royalty. Today the most famous names in Champagne have been improving their winemaking, creating rounder and more complex blends by upping the amount of reserve wine added to their base wine, and extending ageing times.
FOOD PAIRING
Since most Champagne is intensely dry and has high acidity it works wonderfully as an aperitif matched with shellfish, raw bar, pickled vegetables and crispy fried appetisers. Sipping Champagne with potato chips may sound low-brow, but it’s an insanely good pairing. And of course, no Christmas or New Year party is complete without a glass of champers.
TOP CHAMPAGNES HENRIOT BRUT SOUVERAIN The colour of this champagne is a brilliant light straw-gold. Initially the nose is precise, expressive and refreshing, with notes of citrus and yellow fruit; floral fragrances (vine flowers, elderflowers) and pastry aromas (brioche, toast, grilled almond) follow. On the palate, it is a lively, fresh and balanced attack, with pastry, spice (vanilla) and fruity (morello cherry, candied plum) notes. The full texture precedes a clean, refreshing finish marked by citrus fruit aromas. The Champagne has built a reputation internationally and has won a catalogue of awards last year, including a gold medal in the International Wine Challenge 2016.
Henriot is imported and distributed by Red October.
POMMERY BRUT ROYAL This fine champagne is a blend of 40 carefully selected crus from the Champagne region. It is made up of three grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and about onethird Chardonnay. This subtle blend is then aged in the Pommery cellars for about three years in order to develop its full aroma. It is fresh and vivacious, with a supple, fruity finish. A composition that is light yet well-structured and full of charm.
Available exclusively from Cleland & Souchet, Portomaso.
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MALTESE WINES OF DISTINCTION The quality of local wines has increased dramatically over the last 15 years, mainly as a result of Malta’s accession into the EU. Fierce competition and removal of levies placed on imported wines meant that local wineries had to up their game to continue to compete. This is what is required for the coveted DOK status.
M
alta has been known to produce wine ever since the time of the Phoenicians, more than two thousand years ago. Various dominations that followed make specific reference to wine production in Malta most notably the Knights of Malta. Wine production was revamped in Malta in the 1970s when various international grape varieties were imported to Malta and farmers planted them in their vineyards. However, the real revolution in modern winemaking in Malta occurred after 2004 when Malta joined the European Union. Indeed, up till that time, the wine sector in Malta was heavily protected through hefty import levies which gave a substantial competitive advantage to local wineries. At this stage, as of 1 May 2004, all protective levies for imports from the EU were totally removed thus exposing the local industry to fierce competition, both with regards to quality and to price from abroad. Thus, producers had no choice but to dedicate their energy to producing excellent wines without pushing their cost too high. Malta has indeed reached unprecedented levels with 15,340 hectolitres (hL) of quality and table wines being produced in 2010 by the sixteen registered wineries. Ten of these
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commercial wine producers, are officially registered and licensed to produce wines which are specifically protected by the EU’s geographical indications. The demand for Maltese wines is on a constant increase and the drought which was experienced in 2016 had a devastating effect on the harvest and even on the vines themselves.
economical protection to those products which are certified as GI. Moreover, small regions have experienced a substantial increase in income by protecting traditional products deeply linked to their particular territories through PDOs and PGIs. This has in turn aided in creating jobs in agriculture and ensure better revenues for the agricultural operators.
Wines protected by EU’s Geographical Indication The EU has been promoting Geographical Indication (GI) both for wines and also for other food products for decades. The GIs (similar all throughout all the EU Member States) certify that a particular product originates from a specific territory or locality and has specific quality and characteristics. The system adopted and developed by the EU for quality designation based on geographical indication provides a guarantee for wine lovers and also for the wineries. The DOK or IĠT seal is indeed an EU guarantee as to minimum standards of quality and origin of the wine. The EU has always been at the forefront to aid and promote wines and food which may be identified through GIs and also protected against counterfeit products. Thus, the EU gives cultural and also
DOK Malta, DOK Gozo & IĠT In Malta, GI wines are regulated by a specific legislation - D.O.K. WINES PRODUCTION PROTOCOLS REGULATIONS promulgated on 1 May 2007. (S.L. 436.05, S.L. 436.06 and S.L. 436.07). These regulations being specific to the production of wines which benefit from GI labels fall within the ambit of the Wine Act, 2001 (CAP 436). The initial promoters of the D.O.K. and I.Ġ.T. production protocols sought to give higher value and ensure a higher quality of wines produced by wineries in Malta and Gozo. It is interesting to note that wines from the island region of Gozo have been given specific recognition and protection. In fact, DOK wines or Denominazzjoni ta’ Oriġini Kontrollata are two distinct and fully fledged DOKs – DOK Malta and DOK Gozo. This distinction was felt necessary due to the fact that Gozo is a geographically
distinct region from the mainland. DOK makes specific reference not only to quality standards but is also intrinsically linked to the region where the grapes originate from. Consequently, DOK Malta can only be attributed to those wines that originate from grapes which are grown and harvested on mainland Malta. Meanwhile, DOK Gozo refers to those wines obtained from grapes which originate from Gozo. DOK is used for all types of wine including red, white and rose. The production manuals set the maximum yield levels which are permissible and both DOK Malta and DOK Gozo adopt the same maximums as thresholds for a DOK production. Meanwhile, with regards to IĠT wines, no such distinction exists and in fact, only IĠT Maltese Islands is recognized by law. Thus, grapes cultivated both on mainland Malta and on the island region of Gozo may give rise and qualify for the GIIĠT “Maltese Islands”. Similar to what occurs with DOK productions, IĠT refers to all wines including red, white and rose wines. It has to be stressed, however, that a DOK wine is of a higher quality than that of an IĠT wine and the production manuals for both GIs clearly reflect this. Indeed, the winemaker has to be in line with much higher production standards (including grape quality) for DOK wines than for IĠT wines.
All those other wines which do not obtain such a GIs, but which are produced from grapes cultivated in Malta or in other countries in the EU may only be marketed as table wines. This wine – which does not have any geographical indication – may be said to be at the lower end of the hierarchy of wines produced within the EU. It is amply evident that these certifications need a series of controls, checks and balances all throughout the process from the cultivation stage to the final bottling stage. This is a very arduous and stringent process involving various and continuous controls by the Ministry for Agriculture which is the controlling body responsible for the observation of these production protocols. In order to fulfill its duties, the Viticulture and Oenology Unit within the Agricultural Directorate starts with inspections at the wineries during the harvest. Wineries are indeed obliged to inform the Directorate as to the dates when crushing of the grapes destined for a GI wine is taking place so that all the process is registered. Information collated during this period is then cross-checked with the Vineyard Register wherein all areas under vine cultivation in the Maltese Islands have been previously registered. This is an essential task to be performed so that the origin of the grapes can be easily identified. Moreover, other important data including the harvest from year to year, wine produced on a yearly basis and most importantly wine stocks are always under control. Later on, the process for the certification of the wines themselves starts. Officials from the Directorate
collect samples of individual wines for testing by the Directorate prior to any bottling taking place. Wineries have to ensure that the wines being produced respect to the full the production protocols laid down by the DOK and IĠT production manuals. An accredited certification body specifically chosen by the Ministry for Agriculture will then analyse the samples to ensure that the samples provided match the criteria established by the production protocols. It is only after a long process of checks including at the moment of harvest, fermentation and subsequent bottling, that a wine may qualify to be certified as DOK or IĠT wine. Wineries which have obtained such certification may then apply for the required banderoles so that these may be affixed to each and every bottle certified as DOK or IĠT wine. This scheme may be said to have been immediately successful and by 2010, about 91% of the wine production in Malta was certified as GI wines i.e. DOK and/or IĠT. In Malta, consumers may identify wines protected by a geographical indication through a specific banderole. Wineries which are registered with Viticulture and Oenology Unit of the Agricultural Directorate have to undergo rigorous tests and procedures so that they may obtain such banderols for their wines. Maltese vinegrowers and wineries have worked hard over the past decades to recover one of the main agricultural products in Malta – wine. It is thanks to their toil and effort that locals and tourists can now enjoy Maltese quality wines and that Malta can boast of a strong and healthy wine industry.
A hand-picked range of hampers filled with gourmet foods and fine wines and spirits
Food Ltd
FREE DELIVERY ON ALL ORDERS OVER €25.00
Order your hamper gifts online christmashampers.com.mt or Email: hampers@attardco.com or visit us at : 188 The Strand, GĹźira, Tel: (356) 2131 4161 Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 11am till late www.gourmettoday.recipes 63
STAYING TRUE TO CORE VALUES The Glenfarclas Distillery’s reputation is well regarded around the world. In March 2006 Glenfarclas was named Distiller of the Year by Whisky Magazine “for being consistently good and staying true to its core values”. This is story behind the great whisky. The Family Spirit The Glenfarclas Distillery was established in 1836, on the Recherlich Farm at Ballindalloch, in the heart of Speyside. The licence was originally held by Robert Hay, who was the tenant farmer. However, after his death the farm and the distillery were left vacant and this attracted the attention of John Grant. The Grant family were prominent local cattle breeders, who were looking for an ideal halfway staging post between their farm in Glenlivet, and the market in nearby Elgin. The cattle drovers and workmen certainly enjoyed the sustenance of a dram of Glenfarclas. In the 1890’s, John and George Grant formed their own company, J.& G. Grant. After many years of hard work and shrewd accounting, the future of Glenfarclas had been secured, and the Family’s reputation firmly established. A rival distiller wrote to the Grant family in May, 1912: “of all the whiskies, malt is king, of all the kings, Glenfarclas reigns supreme”. The 1920’s saw the retirement of John Grant, and George continued to run the distillery. So on to 1948, which is remembered as the ‘year of the party’; a social milestone for the Grant family that celebrated several anniversaries, even though the date did not coincide with any of them! At this time it was mistakenly believed that the distillery was first established in 1845, and once the war was over, George saw fit to hold a centenary
celebration. Today, the Distillery’s reputation is well regarded around the world. In March 2006 Glenfarclas was named Distiller of the Year by Whisky Magazine “for being consistently good and staying true to its core values”. In 2011 the Distillery celebrated 175 years of licensed distilling, with a ceilidh in Warehouse 14, a Royal visit, and the publication of ‘Glenfarclas – An Independent Distillery’ by Ian Buxton. Today the Grant family continue to act as custodians of the Glenfarclas Distillery, and remain committed to the principle of producing superior quality Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky. From the Grain to the Glass Glenfarclas is renowned for its traditional full bodied and well sherried style, and is only ever released at natural colour. To produce Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt Scotch Whisky, these three essential ingredients are required: pure spring water, malted barley, and yeast. Only the finest ingredients, combined with the unique size and shape of the copper pot
stills, traditional distillation methods, the specially selected oak casks, and the style and location of the warehouses, are all important factors determining the final unique character of Glenfarclas. The Glenfarclas range consists of the 10 Years Old, 12 Years Old, 15 Years Old, 17 Years Old, 21 Years Old, 25 Years Old, 30 Years Old, 40 Years Old and ‘105’ cask strength. The most recent selection, The Family Casks (launched in 2007) are a unique collection single cask, cask strength whiskies. The current range comprises one cask from every year from 1954 to 2001. Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt Scotch Whisky continues to impress the tasting panels at both national and international competitions, year after year. Confirming the words of a great rival distiller in 1912, “of all the whiskies malt is king – of all the kings Glenfarclas reigns supreme.”
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Have yourself a merry little Christmas We believe that the festive season is the best time of year to spoil ourselves and indulge in nothing but the most delicious treats. So join us at Flavours for an abundant buffet, or cosy up at Mokka with one of our renowned afternoon teas this Christmas. Our talented executive chef James Bartolo,head patissier Jimmy Aquilina and their teams have combined only the best ingredients to come up with this years festive menus. Tel: (+356) 2356 1000 fb.goldensands@islandhotels.com www.goldensands.com.mt
GETTING INTO THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT The festive season is not just about one day but a period of Christmas meals, meeting with friends and family and merry-making. Whatever meal you are preparing, you want to add a little Christmas flavour to the table. Check out these recipes by Radisson Blu Resort and Spa, Golden Sands executive chef James Bartolo and pastry chef Jimmy Aquilina for some inspiration for your Christmas get-togethers. Or head on down to the Radisson and let them take care of you!
SALMON TARTARE WITH BEETROOT CARPACCIO
Method 1. Cut the salmon into small cubes. 2. Add the chopped dill, chopped basil, lemon zest and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 3. Slice the beetroot very thinly and blanch in boiling water for few seconds. 4. Allow to cool down and lay onto plates. 5. Season with salt and pepper and little olive oil. 6. Place the tartare on top and garnish with radish and chili. 7. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
Ingredients • 400g salmon, skin removed • ½ lemon, juice and zest • 2 tbsp olive oil • Handful dill • Handful basil • Salt and pepper • 2 beetroots • 1 radish • 1 chili • 1 asparagus
RED LENTIL AND SWEDE SOUP Ingredients • 1 swede, peeled and diced • Olive oil • 200g red lentils • Salt and pepper • 1 onion • 1 carrot • 1 clove garlic • 1.5l vegetable stock • Fresh cream • 2 slices bread • 100g hazelnuts • Handful parsley
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Place the chopped onion, carrot, garlic and swede in a pot with some olive oil and cook for 10 mins. Add the red lentils and cook for 5 mins. Stir in the vegetable stock bring to boil and simmer for 30 mins. Roast the hazelnuts and chop them. Add the chopped parsley and some olive oil to the nuts and set aside. Cut the sliced bread with a star shape and toast. Puree the soup and plate in a soup bowl add the hazelnuts, croutons and fresh cream.
ROAST DUCK WITH APPLE, CHESTNUTS AND CRANBERRIES Ingredients
Method
• • • • • • • • • • •
1. 2. 3.
1 whole duck 2 green apples 100g chestnuts 100g cranberries 500g parsnips 500g sweet potatoes Some star anise Some cloves 5 tbsp honey 2 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper
4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
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Pre-heat the oven to 200°C. Wash and pat dry the whole duck dry. Cut the apples in quarters and place them in the cavity of the duck with some chestnuts and cranberries and season well with salt and pepper. Place the duck into a roasting dish and roast in a hot oven for 60 mins. Peel the parsnips and sweet potatoes and cut into wedges. Place them in a roasting dish add the honey, star anise, cloves and olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss everything and roast for 45 minutes in a preheated oven at 200°C. When done let the duck rest for 15 minutes and serve.
There is add any f at no need to before put tinto t he duck oven. Plenty g it in t he o come out of f f at will t he bird itself
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LEMON RASPBERRY CAKE WITH LEMON ICE CREAM Ingredients
Method
• Lemon and raspberry cake • 250g sugar • 250g unsalted butter • 25ml olive oil • 50ml lemon juice • 250g flour • 150ml eggs whole • 1 tsp baking powder • 1 tsp baking soda • ¼ salt • 50g fresh lemon zest • 40g raspberry pieces Lemon cream • 300g fresh lemon puree • 30g sugar • 3 whole eggs • 5 egg yolks • 110g unsalted butter • 6g gelatine leaves • 300g fresh cream, semi whipped Lemon ice cream • 500ml lemon puree • 1.6l milk • 300g sugar • 65ml cream • 150g inverted sugar
1. 2.
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3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. Cream the butter and sugar in bowl of electric mixer, using paddle attachment, until light and fluffy. With mixer on medium speed, add the eggs one at a time. Add the lemon zest. Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a bowl. Finally add flour and diced raspberries and mix by hand. Pour the mix in a baking tray prepared with a baking paper. Bake for 45 mins - 1 hour, until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. To make the lemon cream put the lemon puree, sugar and whole eggs and egg yolks into a saucepan. Continue mixing until it starts to boil, then take off from heat and add the butter. Blend until dissolved and well mixed. In the meantime, soak the gelatine in cold water. Squeeze the access water from the gelatine and add it to the mixture. Allow to set in the fridge. Whip the cream and add to the cream. To make the ice cream, bring to boil lemon juice, sugars and milk. Add the cream and pour into an ice cream machine and churn.
HOMECOOKS
CHI
Y: JAMES BIAN
PHOTOGRAPH
HOMECOOKS
Christmas is a time for family get-togethers. This time our homecooks family is not altogether. Pascal Holland is spending some time in Finland where he takes inspiration for his starter from the local cuisine. He makes a traditional Finnish soup with salmon, potatoes and a dash of cream to ward off those winter blues. For mains, Gaby Holland makes a simple dish of venison fillets served with a cranberry and port sauce for a bit of a festive twist and serves it on a bed of celeriac puree. Nick Formosa rounds off the meal with a rhubarb pudding, served with custard and a rhubarb compote. These three dishes are easy to prepare but bring about a festive feel making it a perfect meal for the Christmas season whilst also giving you plenty of time to enjoy your guests’ company. www.gourmettoday.recipes 73
CHABLIS LOUIS JADOT The wine is pristine, bright and fresh with high acidity and citrus and mineral aromas and whilst palate offers lemon, pear and apple flavours with freshness
FINNISH SALMON SOUP Ingredients • 6 potatoes • 2 large carrots • 2 onions • 400g salmon fillet, with skin removed • 200ml cream • 4 tbsp fresh dill • 1 bay leaf • Salt and pepper
Method 1. Dice the onions and roughly cut potatoes and carrots. 2. Finely chop the dill and aside. 3. Cut the salmon fillet into 1-inch cubes. 4. In a pot boil 800ml of water and place onions, carrots and spices. 5. Cook for 5 minutes with the lid
6. 7. 8. 9.
on. Add potatoes and cook for a further 10 - 12 mins until potatoes have begun to soften. Add the fish, cream, chopped dill and salt. Bring the soup to the boil then allow to simmer for 5 mins. Plate with a sprinkle of fresh dill and serve immediately.
VENISON FILLETS WITH CELERIAC AND CRANBERRY SAUCE Ingredients • 600g venison fillets • Vegetable oil • Butter • ½ tsp juniper berries, crushed • Salt and pepper Celeriac purée • ½ celeriac head (approx. 400g) • 100ml cream • 100ml milk • 50g butter • Salt to taste Cranberry and port sauce • 3 shallots, finely diced • 2 sprigs fresh thyme • 5 juniper berries, crushed • 4 tbsp cranberry sauce • 200ml beef stock • 100ml port • Large knob of butter Method 1. Start by preparing the celeriac purée. This may be prepared a day ahead, chilled and reheated gently
in a Bain Marie before serving Using a sharp knife slice off the coarse outer skin of vegetable. 3. Dice the celeriac. Heat the butter in a pan and slowly cook the celeriac for approximately 5 mins. 4. Add the milk and simmer gently until soft for approximately 20-30 mins. 5. Transfer the mixture to a blender add the cream and blitz into a purée. 6. Pass through a fine strainer and season to taste. 7. The cranberry and port sauce may also be prepared in advance. 8. Gently fry the finely diced shallots in a little oil. 9. Add the beef stock and simmer until shallots are soft. 10. Add the thyme leaves and juniper berries and stir in the cranberry sauce until melted. 11. Next add the port and simmer until reduced and slightly thickened. 12. Whisk in the knob of butter to 2.
13. 14.
15. 16. 17.
18. 19. 20.
add gloss to the sauce. When reheating add some more stock if too thick . Season to taste with salt. Lay the venison on a board. Sprinkle black pepper, crushed juniper berries and a little salt on each side, pressing the seasoning into the meat. Heat the oil and butter in an ovensafe pan over medium-high heat. Add the venison and sear on all sides. About 2 mins on each side. Transfer the pan to a hot oven and cook for approximately 5 mins more or until an internal meat thermometer reads 50°C. Remove from the oven and cover with foil. Allow the meat to rest for a few minutes before slicing. When ready to serve, slice the venison crosswise so you have nice rounds of fillet. Serve with celeriac purée, a generous drizzle of cranberry and port sauce and roasted cubes of sweet potatoes and parsnips.
HOMECOOKS
COSTASERA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOCG Proud, majestic, complex and exuberant: this is Masi’s gentle giant. Traditional grapes for the Valpolicella Classica area - Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara - are laid out on bamboo racks to concentrate their aromas during the winter months
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HOMECOOKS SPICED RHUBARB PUDDING Serves 6 Ingredients • 500g rhubarb • 100g caster sugar for pudding • 3 tbsp caster sugar for rhubarb • 100g self-raising flour • 100g butter • 1 vanilla pod, split and scraped • 1 tbsp ground ginger • 2 eggs • 50ml milk • 1 orange, juice and zest • 1 lemon, zest only • 6 tbsp Golden Syrup Custard • 200ml double cream • 700ml whole milk • 4 egg yolks • 3 tbsp cornflour • 200g sugar • 1 tsp vanilla
BRUT ROSÉ BY SIMONSIG A full flavoured dry sparkling Rosé made by the traditional Methodé Cap Classique method. A sensory adventure filled with fresh red berry pockets and hints of candyfloss. A celebration of refreshing flavours tantalise the palate with a finish of quince notes. The subtle yet crisp acidity causes an array of lingering high notes.
Method 1. Cut the rhubarb into bite size pieces and put a quarter of them aside to be used later. 2. Heat a pan and add three quarters of the rhubarb along with 3 tbsp of caster sugar, the zest and juice of 1 orange and cook until soften and set aside. 3. Soften butter and gently mix in a mixer with the sugar and vanilla until light and fluffy. 4. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping the sides with each addition. 5. Add the lemon zest. 6. Keep on mixing and sift in the flour, using the milk to loosen the mixture. 7. Butter 6 ramekins. 8. Grab the remaining rhubarb bits and place them into the ramekins, then 1 tbsp of golden syrup over each one. 9. Spoon an equal amount of mixture into each of the ramekins. 10. Cover the top of each ramekin with baking papered and tie tightly with the string. Trim the edges of the baking paper around the ramekins so that they are neat. 11. Prepare a steamer and steam the puddings for 1 hour. 12. To make the custard, put the cream and milk into a large pan and bring to just below boiling point. 13. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the cornflour, sugar and vanilla. 14. Gradually pour in the hot milk, stirring constantly. 15. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan an heat gently, stirring all the time until the custard thickens. Keep warm until ready to serve. 16. Gently run a knife around the sides of each of the puddings and flip out onto a flat plate. The puddings should slide out easily. 17. Fill a deep plate with around 4 tbsp warm custard. 18. Carefully move the pudding into the centre of the plate and top with warm rhubarb compote and serve immediately.
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Definitive(ly) Good Guide
CHEF OF THE MONTHber
m e v o N
DANIEL GRECH Head chef at Shoreditch
What experience can people expect to have when they dine at your restaurant? Happiness, peace and most of all... excitement, each dish we produce cannot be found anywhere else on the island. It has our trademark!
Did you always want to become a Chef? No, I didn’t. My first job was as a dishwasher which was were I found my passion after watching the chefs cook and loved the action in the kitchen. How has your career progressed to get you where you are today? The progress was slow but sure and was due to hard work, determination and long, long hours in the kitchen cooking and working my *#!! off. Which celebrity chef has most inspired you? Gordon Ramsay! I love the way he cooks and also the discipline he shows in his kitchens. It is something very hard to achieve and maintain especially since he owns 34 restaurants.
CHEF OF THE MONTH COMPETITION What is your favourite ingredient to work with? BUTTER, lots of it and truffle. What advice would you give to an aspiring chef? If you’re going to do it for the money then don’t do it at all, the money comes after a very long time. Do it for the passion and satisfaction of pleasing others with your creations.
The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants Chef of the Month Competition supported by The Catering Centre and Gourmet Today aims to recognise the chefs who make the restaurant the success that it is. Every month two chefs are featured on www.restaurantsmalta.com and diners areasked to vote for who they think is the best based on presentation of the food, variety of ingredients used and creativity in their use. To find out who the Chef of the Year is Get your copy of the 2018 guide from www.restaurantsmalta.com.
What is your food philosophy? My philosophy is cook with your heart, rise early and work hard.
Shoreditch 43, Wilga Street, St. Julians San Giljan Facebook: shoreditchmalta
Win a meal for two at Shoreditch with the Definitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today. Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at these restaurants. Competition ends 31 January, 2018.
restaurantsmalta.com
WIN a meal for tw o
The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.
www.gourmettoday.recipes 79
DECEMBER 2017
RECIPE INDEX STARTERS Smoked salmon and prawn surprise
36
King scallops with hazelnut butter
53
Salmon tartare with beetroot capraccio
67
Red lentil and swede soup
68
Finnish salmon soup
74
MAINS Moroccan lamb tagine
14
Dry-brined roast turkey
31
English roast beef
39
Seared cod and lentils
55
Roast duck with apple, chestnuts and cranberries
68
Venison fillets with celeriac
74
SIDES Cranberry sauce
31
Roast potatoes
39
Gravy
40
Yorkshire puddings
40
SWEETS Traditional Christmas pudding
43
Rum custard
43
Christmas shortbread cookies
45
Gingerbread men
47
Ginger cake with cinnamon frosting
47
Spiced pannacotta with chocolate sauce
54
Lemon raspberry cake with lemon ice cream
70
Spiced rhubarb pudding
77