Gourmet Today Issue 44

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br uary 2017

E RT TH FO E M SU CO IS

ISSUE 44 • Fe

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GET 'EM WHILE THEY'RE HOT COMFORTING, WARM DESSERTS

Y PANCAKE DA

BIERI B R U N O BA R

STS FAMILY ROA

Would you rather wait for magic beans ...or plan for your retirement now so you can enjoy life later?

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Michael Diac

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Pippa Matte

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Editor’s note

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inter is a time for comfort food and as the temperatures dipped pretty low this winter and we’ve all been piling on the layers (of clothing). Helping ourselves to seconds or going for that warm dessert is what has pulled us through the winter.

Sunday lunch over the winter is dominated by roast lunches spent with the family. Our homecooks gather around the table to create a wonderfully comforting meal of roast pork belly with Granny Smith apples and roasted Parmesan fennel bulbs. This coming after homemade potato and pumpkin gnocchi and followed by bread and butter pudding with whisky custard – definitely a meal worth gathering the family for.

And after a meal we could always do with dessert and in the coldest months what is better than that combination of hot pudding with cold ice cream? Erin Cauchi from Radisson Blu Resort in St Julian’s shares some of his recipes for comfortingly warm sweets.

Pancake day is just around the corner and Pippa Mattei has a great recipe, whether you are looking for sweet or savoury. Make your own cannelloni with pancakes stuffed with all kinds of fillings from minced beef to chicken or salmon.

We hope you enjoy this edition of Gourmet Today and look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions.

Bon appetit!

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Nick Formos

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Pascal Holla n

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Sasha

Shumarayev

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Amy Micalle f Decesare

Erin Cauchi

CONTRIBUTORS

Gaby Hollan

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CONTENTS Contact us

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Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt

GOURMET TODAY WISH LIST These are a few of our favourite things

11 TABLE-HOPPING We just love to eat out. These are our favourites this season

Design: Kevin Grech Photography: James Bianchi, Rachel Zammit Cutajar Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia afarrugia@mediatoday.com.mt Contact for advertising: Philippa Zammit pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt

20 PIZZA LOVE All you need to know about your favourite fast food 30 FLIP IT Sweet or savoury? Get ready for pancake day with Pippa Mattei

Published by:

Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt

40 PICKING GRAPES Our favourite cabernet sauvignons ISSU

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E 44

• Feb

ruary

CO TH M E IS FO SU R E T

2017

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GET 'EM WHILE THEY'RE HOT

COMFORTING, WARM DESSERTS

Printed at: Print It Printing Services

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FEBRUARY 2017

Y AKE DA PANC

BRUNO

BARBI

ERI

FAMILY

T’S ROAS

Cover: Chocolate and hazelnut parcels at the Radisson Blu Resort, St Julian’s Photo by James Bianchi

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18 49 GET IT WHILE IT’S HOT A complete guide to warm desserts

44 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With celebrity chef Bruno Barbieri 61 COMFORT FOOD WITH THE FAMILY Winter is about comfort eating and what better way to do it than around the family table 69 CHEF OF THE YEAR Kevin Bonello is The Definitive(ly) Good Guide’s chef of the year

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WISH LIST MIXING IT UP KITCHEN AID A stand mixer is an absolute necessity if you are a regular baker (or aspiring to be one). These Kitchen Aids come in a range of colours that are absolutely gorgeous. We just love this terracotta one. Wouldn’t it look absolutely perfect in the Gourmet Test Kitchen?

Price: €399

Available from Forestals, Mriehel Bypass, Mriehel. www. forestals.com

SMOKED MEAT AND MELTED CHEESE PFGT meets NYB David Darmanin, Gourmet Today’s first editor, has been making a name for himself in London serving the hipster crowd with… toast! Though it may sound simple and perhaps a little boring this is anything but! David has been pairing humble bread with some magnificent ingredients making the toast, well, pretty f*cking good! From 14 to 18 March he will be over in Malta teaming up with NYB for a pop up weekend f*cking good toast and with smoked meat of some kind. We can’t wait to see what they come up with!

Like the PGFT Facebook page and the New York Best Facebook page to find out more.

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A job in food media comes with its own hazards, one of which is the huge wish list we put together when checking out different shops, meeting chefs and dining in restaurants. These are some of the items that have topped our list this season. Whether you’re looking to treat yourself or looking for a gift for a foodie, these are certainly worth checking out

WISH LIST

FIRING IT UP Morso Forno Wood Oven As the sun starts to shine we start to wonder what to do with our outside spaces. Anyone with a little outdoor space should definitely consider one of these. Not only does cooking become more fun, but you can achieve restaurant quality pizzas, juicy

meats and perfect bread on one of these. Tempted anyone?

Price: â‚Ź1,299 Available from Atmost, Balzan. www.atmostmalta.com

FOODIE PRINTS Gastrografija Anyone into food and/or art must get their hands on one of these. Food photographer Sean Mallia’s first exhibition, Gastrografija, not only shows his understanding of light but his ability to captivate the soul. We would love to have one (or many) of these hanging on our walls.

www.seanmallia.com

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TABLE-HOPPING As much as we love to cook at Gourmet Today, we also love to eat out. New restaurants are popping up all over the island, some that stay and some that don’t seem to make it. We take it upon ourselves to find out which ones are worth your while… a job we take very seriously. These are our favourite tables this season.

PHOTO: PALAZZO CASTELLETTI BY RAY ATTARD

PHOTOGRAPHY: JONAS KEMPTER

ART ON A PLATE AT WATERBISCUIT

Waterbiscuit has made a reputation for itself for producing menu items – from breakfasts to evening meals, cocktails to casual lunches – that are as pretty to look at as they are to indulge in. SASHA SHUMARA heads down to try the new menu by their new chef de cuisine, Brady Dalli

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aterbiscuit’s world-class service and cosmopolitan flair hits you as soon as you walk through the door. The contemporary atmosphere is a breath of fresh air everything from the various dining rooms to the lighting has been styled exquisitely.

My guest and I sat down with Charlene Le Gall, InterContinental’s Director of Communications, to try out Waterbiscuit’s innovative Mediterranean menu by their new and enthusiastic Maltese Chef de Cuisine, Brady Dalli.

But first, cocktails. We asked Luca Galea, Waterbiscuit’s expert bartender, to surprise us and boy, were we surprised with his impeccable creations. Luca welcomed us with three cocktails from Waterbiscuit’s 60 Minute Sip Down offer.

With ‘My Pleasure’, a homemade thymeinfused gin cocktail in hand, I knew we were in for a divine night.

For starters, I had perfectly pan-

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seared scallops paired with a splendid pea cassonade. The dish had such extraordinary flavour thanks to the glorious umami-rich squid ink tuile.

Between bites, my guest said that his smoked cheese royal with caramelised onion mousse was delightfully rich and creamy but not too heavy. Charlene was deeply satisfied with the beef tartare, which was coupled with caper mayo, Parmesan textures, and confit egg yolk.

Waterbiscuit’s menu truly has a dish for everyone with unrivalled seafood, meat and vegetarian plates. For our mains, we tried one of each. I chose one of the vegetarian options of grilled cauliflower on a bed of cauliflower purée, couscous, and braised spring onions with toasted almonds that added the perfect sweetness.

My guest enjoyed the grouper with smoked aubergine purée and Charlene ordered the glazed short rib of beef, which cut like butter.

The portions were just right. Even a meal

of two plates will be enough to satisfy most appetites at Waterbiscuit.

However, for us, the dessert menu was calling and how could we resist? I was dying to try the baked white chocolate with miso mousse (definitely an umami-ful night for me), sea buckthorn, and banana purée. Both my guest and Charlene went for the percentages of chocolate with kumquat pannacotta, macadamia nuts, and chocolate soil. It was absolutely beautiful.

To the say the least, our evening at Waterbiscuit was a feast for the senses.

Next time we’ll be back to try their more casual all-day dining menu downstairs which offers wonderful comfort foods like eggs Benedict and Angus beef burgers.

Waterbiscuit has certainly mastered the art of plating. Their immaculate dinner menu upstairs is a true gem with beautiful plates at very reasonable prices.

And they even offer three hours of free parking. What’s not to like?

TABLE-HOPPING

Waterbiscuit St George’s Bay St Julian’s, Malta Tel: 2376 2225 Email: info@waterbiscuit.com.mt Web: www.waterbiscuit.com.mt waterbiscuitmalta

DINING IN STYLE IN A LAID-BACK ATMOSPHERE AT REDWHITE Palazzo Castelletti is the ultimate for fine dining. However it’s not every day that you want to get dolled up and splash out on such a lavish meal. For that, Palazzo Castelletti’s got you covered. RedWhite is San Andrea’s more laid-back sister, and will make you feel at home whilst keeping the standard of food impeccably high. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE tries it out

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n a chilly winter’s night, after a long day at work, nothing is more satisfying than eating a delicious meal, sipping on a glass of slightly chilled wine and unwinding.

And no place is better to do that than RedWhite, in Rabat.

Located in the beautiful cellar of Palazzo Castelletti, RedWhite offers patrons an intimate dining experience, especially perfect for those in search of a great plate of pasta in a slightly more laid back atmosphere.

From the very first minute, my guest and I were taken care of, made to feel like we were their only diners. Greeted with friendly smiles and warm fresh bread, we perused through the vast menu. Never have we ever struggled so much to come to a decision. Beef carpaccio, deep fried calamari, brie, mozzarella di bufala, mini burgers… and these were the starters alone.

We pondered whether it would be socially acceptable to order one of everything but decided against it a few minutes later.

Ordering our mains was an even greater challenge.

What felt like hours later, we finally came to a decision and let me tell you, we could not have made better choices. I suspect, however, that I’d be saying the exact same

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thing regardless of what we had ordered.

A short while later we were presented with our starters. For my guest, buffalo wrapped in Parma ham, baked and served with roasted cherry tomatoes and fresh, crunchy rocket. Just the right amount of rosemary oil was carefully drizzled over

the dish, transforming a simple yet greatly loved meal into a delicacy.

For myself, the mini beef sliders, with smoked cheese, honey and Jack Daniels BBQ sauce and a deliciously tangy slaw.

Despite the fact that I’m 23 and an adult in the eyes of society, I always fall for mini foods. Don’t let the size of the burgers fool you however, they’re jam-packed with flavour and I guarantee you’ll be counting down the days till you can return just to order them again.

I could have called it a night based just on our first courses but we were only just getting started… and boy, were we in for a treat. The waitress brought over our mains with a smile (and a second bottle of wine). To keep things fresh, my guest and I decided to order each other’s main courses.

For her, I ordered the gnocchi sea food. For me, she ordered the melanzane parmigiana.

If I’m being honest, never in a million years would I have ordered it for myself. Being quite a keen lover of meat (and pizza), I couldn’t help but feel like my chance to guiltlessly indulge in a delicious veal tagliata had been wasted. However, I was put in my place. The intricate dish was a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Layer upon layer of soft, warm aubergine, delicately interwoven into contrasting layers of fresh, crunchy bell pepper, creating a fusion of flavour and texture. Also intriguing was the way in which the dish was presented. In an effort to break the mould of the traditional lasagne-like format of the melanzane parmigiana, it was instead constructed to resemble a stack of pancakes. Definitely different from what you would usually expect. When combined, every single element of the dish was effortlessly perfect.

As I said, I’m no vegetarian but would dare even the most avid steak-eater to try this one out and prove me wrong.

My guest’s dish was just as delightful.

Being a sucker for both gnocchi and seafood, RedWhite really hit the nail on the head with this one. With child-like eagerness, my guest dug into what she described as an “explosion of flavour”.

Perfectly pan-fried prawns, mussels, clams

TABLE-HOPPING

and bisque were tossed together with classic Italian gnocchi, making my guest smile from ear to ear. Though you wouldn’t normally associate gnocchi with seafood, the two complemented each other like milk and cookies.

As the saying goes, “plates don’t lie” and ours were polished clean. We were not done yet however. My head was saying no but my heart was screaming yes so, as we’ve often been instructed to do in life, I listened to my heart. Without hesitation, my guest and I opted for the Ferrero Roche cake and the blueberry and marshmallow mousse. The former is to die for and I very rarely make such claims. Delectable and rich, it’s the perfect dessert for chocolate lovers, of which I know there are many out there. For those who would rather go for more of a guilt-free dessert (it’s not guilt-free at all but berries count as one of your five a day, right?) the blueberry and marshmallow mousse is perfect.

Well-balanced, sweet but not too sweet, delicately layered and served in a glass, making it that much more fun to eat as you scavenge for that last berry hidden under the fluffy marshmallow pillow.

It’s with a heavy heart, I tell you, that with one final sip of our espressos, it was all over. Walking out into the cold harsh wind, I came to the realisation that meals like these bring people together and allow them to disconnect from the outside world, if even for a couple of hours, indulge and engage in conversation. RedWhite not only provided us with the perfect atmosphere to do just that, but also greatly exceeded our expectations on the food front. Though the restaurant is designed to be more laidback in nature, clearly the chef does not adopt the same mind-set when it comes to the preparation of food. Each and every dish incorporates some sort of innovative element, some sort of twist, taking your all-time favourites and elevating them to a level you never knew existed. For this reason, amongst countless others, I have no doubt people will always be knocking on RedWhite’s door (myself included).

RedWhite 62, Palazzo Castelletti, St Paul’s Street, Rabat Tel: 21452562 Web: www.palazzocastelletti.com redwhitelounge

PHOTOGRAPHY: ZACH FARRUGIA

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE CORINTHIA PALACE On your days off, there is little to do between the hours of lunch and dinner, and the cold temperatures make you that little bit peckish in between meals. This is the perfect time to tuck into the delicacies served at afternoon tea at the Corinthia Palace Hotel in Attard

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here’s something very special about the ritual of afternoon tea: the pretty crockery, the dainty delicacies and the elegant atmosphere.

It is actually an activity that can be traced back through the decades to the early 1840s, in Great Britain, when food lovers found that they couldn’t quite make it from lunch to dinner without nibbling on a tasty treat or two in-between.

It had become ubiquitous, even in the isolated village in the fictionalised memoir Lark Rise to Candleford, where a cottager lays out what she calls a “visitor’s tea” for their landlady: “the table was laid… there were the best tea things with a fat pink rose on the side of each cup; hearts of lettuce, thin bread and butter, and the crisp little cakes that had been baked in readiness that morning.” Doesn’t that just make you want to put the kettle on?

At the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa in Attard, afternoon tea is something they love to take seriously, and aren’t we glad of it! Served in the Orange Grove, guests enjoy the expertly-crafted menu served on a tiered platter – starting with delicate finger sandwiches, and followed by fine French pastries and cakes.

No afternoon tea would be complete without warm scones topped with

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clotted cream and sweet, sticky jam.

This is accompanied by a range of teas and coffees, or, if you’re in the mood for celebrating, a lovely glass of bubbly.

Here afternoon tea can also be tailored to your bespoke requirements – whether you’re planning a special occasion or would like the Corinthia Palace’s award-winning chefs to craft a personalised menu especially for your

and your party. Simply get in touch and their friendly staff will guide you through the best options for your party.

So why not book now? They guarantee, there’s no place more scrumptious to while away the hours between lunch and dinner!

Afternoon is tea served daily in the Orange Grove from 10am to 6pm.

TABLE-HOPPING

Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa De Paule Avenue Attard Tel: 25442715 Email: events.palace@corinthia.com Corinthia Palace Hotel and Spa

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

GENUINE GOODNESS AT LE BISTRO Le Bistro, at the Radisson Blu Resort in St Julian’s, has recently undergone refurbishment transforming it from any other hotel restaurant to one worthy of our lunch-money. SASHA SHUMARA heads down there to find out just how hard they have been working on creating genuine dishes made with the freshest ingredients – some even grown on their property. She was not disappointed

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alking into Le Bistro is warm and welcoming with equal parts chic and down-toearth. Nestled right by the sea, nothing beats enjoying a fresh, healthy meal with that perfect view, which guests can thoroughly enjoy on the outside deck in the warmer months. Being a bit chilly out, we settled in by the window and enjoyed the stylish, organic vibes inside. Le Bistro’s modern styling has everything from the interior décor to the copper salt shakers on each table to a tee.

We spent some time eyeing Le Bistro’s extensive menu and I have to say, it will please any appetite. Their menu offers everything from smoked ham, fried octopus, rabbit pies, gorgeous salads like prawns and avocado to all these beautiful fresh pastas and mains that we’ll be back for, like meaty lamb shanks, stuffed aubergines and of course, their fresh, line-caught Mediterranean fish.

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Bistro. Most menu items are free-range, local and organic thanks to Le Bistro’s close relationship with local farmers and suppliers. Many of the homemade dishes draw inspiration from seasonal produce and some meals even incorporate produce grown on the hotel’s premises.

Points.

As soon as our waitress announced the catches of the day, I knew I had to order the red snapper, a fish I literally dream about. My guest immediately chose the baked salmon. As a side note to rabbit lovers, the spaghetti rabbit sounds divine with slow cooked chunky rabbit ragout with garden peas.

To start, we enjoyed Le Bistro’s goat cheese and tomato cross bread. The goat cheese with plum tomatoes and red onion melted together into savoury

delicious bites that I wished would never end.

And then our mains arrived. Seafood enthusiasts, you’re in for a treat. Our fish were cooked to perfection.

A refreshing dish, my snapper was lightly herbed complimenting the sweet and firm meat. My guest’s baked salmon was moist and flavourful, just the way baked salmon should be.

Our mains were served with generous sides of mixed roasted vegetables (which added a beautiful colour to our table), buttery smooth mashed potatoes and fresh tossed greens.

Le Bistro lives up to their promise of genuine goodness. Their simple, fresh and flavourful dishes and wonderfully comforting atmosphere will keep us coming back to try their whole menu.

“LE BISTRO LIVES UP TO THEIR PROMISE OF GENUINE GOODNESS”

TABLE-HOPPING

Le Bistro Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s Tel: 21374894 Web: www.lebistromalta.com

LeBistroMalta

THE CRUST OF THE MATTER

Some like it deep, some like it thin and crispy, loaded with toppings or keeping it simple.

One thing for sure is that (almost) everybody loves pizza. While it’s great to head down to your local pizza joint to get some of that cheesy goodness, nailing a great, homemade pizza is a skill that everybody needs to have. So what makes a really good pizza? While choice of toppings is generally subjective, quality crust is not. So a recipe for the best crust, I hear you say? It’s not that simple. Different recipes result in different styles of pizza. Which one to choose depends on the result you are after and the time you have on your hands

NEAPOLITAN-STYLE CRUST This is where pizza crust first began – the origin of pizza crust, if you will.

The simplest form, Neapolitan pizza crust contains the fewest ingredients: flour, salt, yeast and water. Nothing else. No oil. No sugar. Nothing. What makes this pizza crust unique? The long fermentation process gives the starches time to break down into simpler sugars, the yeast will create flavourful by-products, and gluten formation occurs giving the dough a good stretch and dramatic rise. A pizza made in the Neapolitan style will have a thin layer

of crispiness to the dough with a soft, cloud-like centre. As it is cooked at such high temperatures, it will have leopard spots of blackened dough, surrounded by paler more chewy dough.

Putting it together A finer flour, the 00 kind, is used for this dough allowing it to absorb more water.

Though a good Neapolitan crust needs a long, cold fermentation – three to five days in the fridge – this needs relatively less work than other

pizza doughs as there is no kneading involved.

Cooking method Traditionally these are cooked in woodfired ovens and don’t take more than 90 seconds to go from raw to finished. Though ideal temperatures to cook this pizza range around the 500°C mark, most home ovens do not go over 250°C. To get this pizza right at home try cooking in a cast-iron skillet. Cook the bottom of the dough on the hob for a few mins until golden brown and then cook the top under a hot grill.

NEAPOLITAN-STYLE CRUST RECIPE

Ingredients

Method

• • • •

1.

120g 00 bread flour 4 tsp salt 11g instant yeast (1 large pkt) 1½ cups water

2.

3.

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Combine flour, salt and yeast in a bowl and whisk.

Add water and incorporate with your hands until no dry flour remains.

Cover with cling film and allow to

4.

5.

6.

rise at room temperature for 8 – 12 hours.

Divide dough into 4 balls and place each one in a zip-lock freezer bag.

Place in the fridge and allow to rise slowly for between 2 and 4 days.

Allow to rest at room temperature for at least two hours before baking.

PIZZA SICILIAN-STYLE CRUST This is the simplest kind of pizza dough and can be used the same day of making the dough, making it a great every day option for homemade pizzas. There is no kneading or rolling and everything can be done in a stand mixer and oven tray reducing the time spent cleaning up.

These pizza squares are thicker and chewier than your average pizza dough and have a distinct sweetness from the fried bottom.

Putting it together No fancy flours required for this one - bread flour or even plain flour work just fine. The high water content of this dough makes stretching it out really

easy. Simply pour out the dough from the stand mixer into a well-oiled baking tray and push the sides of the dough into the corner! The oily base will fry the bottom of the crust so that there is no need for a long ferment. You can go from raw ingredients to a finished pizza that is ready to eat in a matter of hours (though you still need proving time).

an edge is the oily base in which it is cooked. The hot oil helps the bottom of the dough to cook through in its 15 to 20 minutes of cooking.

Cooking method What gives this dough a little bit of

SICILIAN-STYLE CRUST RECIPE Ingredients 2.

• • • • •

500g plain flour 2 tsp salt 7g instant yeast (1 small pkt) ½ cup olive oil 1½ cups water, room temperature

Method 1.

Combine the flour, salt, yeast, and 2 tbsp olive oil in a stand

3.

4.

5.

mixer and whisk to combine.

While the mixer is on add the water slowly until the dough comes together and no dry flour remains.

Increase the speed and knead for approx. 6 mins until the dough is stretchy and smooth.

Allow to rise in a warm place for at least 1 hour until the dough has doubled in size.

With wet hands punch down the

NEW YORK-STYLE CRUST Cooked in slightly cooler ovens than Neapolitan pizzas, these are popular in New York City, hence their name.

Getting the correct texture here is paramount. The crust should be crisp with enough give to allow for the perfect New York fold. Hard, cracker-like bases that split when folded are a no-no.

Compared to the Neapolitan crust, the New York crust should have less of a rise and be more consistently golden than her spotty cousin.

Putting it together This crust owes its texture to two added ingredients: oil and sugar. The oil coats the individual granules of flour, limiting the formation of gluten and thus giving it less of a rise. The sugar helps the crust turn a more consistent golden colour and packs in the flavour. Bread flour is the best for this type of pizza though normal plain flour will do. This can be made in a food processor or a stand mixer and doesn’t need the long fermentation process of Neapolitan crust. Use as quickly as the day after making.

Cooking method This pizza crust takes between 12 and 15 minutes to cook, which would completely dry out a Neapolitan-style dough. Oven temperatures do not need to be as high, making traditional home ovens acceptable for this kind of pizza. Using a pizza stone rather than a traditional baking tray will give you a better finished product as the stone holds more heat and draws away excess moisture from the dough, giving you a more even finish all the way through.

6.

7.

8.

9.

dough to get rid of the air.

Pour the rest of the oil into a baking tray.

Transfer the dough into the baking tray, pushing it out into the corners of the dish.

Cover in cling film and allow to rise for another hour.

Top the pizza with your favourite toppings and cook in a preheated oven to max for 15 to 20 mins.

NEW YORK-STYLE CRUST RECIPE Ingredients • • • • • •

650g bread flour 1 ½ tbsp sugar 1 tbsp salt 11g instant yeast (1 large pkt) 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 ¾ cups water, at room temperature

Method 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Combine flour, sugar, salt and yeast in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until incorporated.

Add the olive oil and water and process until the mixture forms balls (approx. 15 secs). Process for another 15 secs.

Transfer to a floured surface and knead by hand until a smooth ball is formed.

Divide into three parts and place each into a zip-lock freezer bag.

Place in the fridge and allow to rise for at least 1 day and up to 5 days.

Allow to rest for at least 2 hours at room temperature before baking.

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MAKE YOUR OWN AT HOME

Making your own pizza doesn’t have to be difficult. Sure it takes time for the dough to rise but good things come to those who wait. Michael Diacono has a family of young kids who absolutely love pizza – the making of it as well as the eating of it. The entire family get involved, choosing their own toppings and sharing in the making a mess of the kitchen.

Follow his fool-proof recipe and add any toppings you fancy.

Homemade pizza with minced lamb and ricotta Ingredients

Method

with wet hands.

Grease a baking tray with olive oil and open up the dough and place into the baking tray pressing into the corners.

8. Add the lamb mince and a little more oregano.

9. Add the cherry tomatoes and dollops of fresh ricotta.

10. Sprinkle a little mozzarella over the top and season with salt and pepper and a little more olive oil.

11. Bake in the oven for 20 mins at 220°C. 12. Serve warm.

7.

Pizza dough • 500g plain flour • 2 tsp salt • 11g instant yeast • 2 tbsp olive oil • 300ml water (with an extra 100ml just in case) Lamb topping • 1 onion, diced • 2 cloves garlic • 200g lamb, minced • 1 tsp oregano • Salt and pepper • Handful cherry tomatoes • 150g ricotta • 100g mozzarella, dried • Plain pizza dough

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1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Place all ingredients for the dough into a kitchen aid with the dough hook attached.

Mix the ingredients for approx 10 mins adding the extra water as necessary.

Cover with cling film and leave in a warm place to rise for approx 1 hour until it has doubled in size.

In the meantime make the lamb mixture, heat the oil in a pan and add the onion and the garlic and fry until golden.

Add the minced lamb, oregano and salt and pepper and cook until browned for a few mins.

Add a little bit of olive oil to the dough and punch out the air

This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV aired on TVM on 11 February, 2017.

PIZZA

FLOUR POWER PLAIN FLOUR

Made from the seed head’s endosperm of softer wheat varieties, this makes this white flour much more shelfstable, though its nutritional value is somewhat decreased. If you are only going to have one flour in your store cupboard, it should be this one.

GOOD FOR: Cookies, bread and baked goods NOT GOOD FOR: This flour can be used for almost anything, though should be sifted for tender cakes.

00 FLOUR

This is ground to extreme fineness making rolling the dough really thin possible. This is absolutely vital for things like pasta where getting a really thin dough is paramount.

GOOD FOR: Pasta, very thin crusts NOT GOOD FOR: Bread

BREAD FLOUR

This flour has a higher protein content as it is made from hard wheat. It contains more gluten than plain flour which is developed when kneading (or beating with a dough hook in a stand mixer) resulting in much chewier baked goods.

GOOD FOR: Bread, pretzels or anything chewy NOT GOOD FOR: Cakes and pastries

CAKE FLOUR

Made from soft wheat varieties this fine texture flour is slightly bleached which damages the flour’s starches allowing them to absorb more liquid and achieve a higher rise.

GOOD FOR: Tender cakes like sponges NOT GOOD FOR: Bread

ALTERNATIVE FLOURS

There is a huge range of alternative flours, many of which are gluten free.

Some of these include spelt, rye, barley (all of which contain gluten) as well as oat, buckwheat, rice and amaranth (which are gluten-free). Gluten contributes to the chewy texture of bread, which is why baking glutenfree breads is so difficult. When using any alternative flour for any baked goods, start by mixing it with wheat flour and then increasing the amount of alternative flour and reducing the amount of wheat flour once your confidence in handling grows.

GOOD FOR: Cookies, tarts, dense cakes NOT GOOD FOR: Bread

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GOURMET TODAY’S TOP PIZZERIAS When you just have to get that wood-burning oven pizza made by the experts there are a few spots that we recommend, in no particular order. Finding them has been hard work, but we’re happy to go through as many pizzas as it takes!

VECCHIA NAPOLI As its name suggests this place specialises in traditional Neapolitan style pizza. The founding father of all pizzas if you like. The recipe for their dough is a closely guarded secret though one this that is not so secret is that they use a blend of four different grades of flour sourced from Mulino Caputo in Naples. The star of their menu is their signature Capo del Monte, a calzone-style pizza filled with a melted blend of cheeses including mozzarella fior di latte, Parmiggiano Reggiano, Fontina and Italico and is flavoured with porcini and tartufo nero and chopped Trevisano red lettuce for crunch. Over the top of the calzone you will find soft slices of Parma ham, rucola and shavings of Gran Padano.

Tower Road, Sliema Tel: 21343434 Vecchia-Napoli

I MONELLI This pizzeria is one of the few good reasons to go to Paceville if you are over the age of 25. The Neapolitanstyle dough and high quality ingredients are what has made this place stand the test of time when other restaurants have changed hands numerous times. We love their savoury pizzas, almost so much it is impossible to choose a favourite but what gets us most, is the dessert.

Tiny balls of pizza dough smothered in either Nutella or pistachio cream… or if you can’t choose, have both.

63A, Wilga Street, Paceville Tel: 21360036 I-Monelli

BIANCO’S In a world where restaurants come and go, Bianco’s, in the heart of Spinola Bay has stood the test of time and has been quietly going about its business of providing top notch food including phenomenal pizzas. While they have a bunch of different toppings to suit every taste, one that really stands out is their Pizza al Pistacchio; a white pizza (with no tomato sauce) topped with daily made pesto, mozzarella di bufala, cherry tomatoes, Italian sausage and topped with chopped pistachios.

St George’s Road, St Julian’s Tel: 21359865. Home delivery 21383030 biancosmalta 24 www.gourmettoday.recipes

PIZZA AMIGOS Amigos made a name for itself selling fast Mexican food. The first on the island to sell tacos, Amigos soon branched out into pizza, and did they do a good job of that? What we especially like is the addition of sesame seeds on the light crust. It gives it that little extra something-special. Trying to pick a favourite here is hard. All ingredients are the freshest available on the local market. We especially like the calzone gorgonzola, which as you would imagine is stuffed full of gooey gorgonzola and mozzarella paired with mushrooms and topped with rucola, Parma ham and Parmesan shavings. Their Siciliana is also pretty hot with lemon infused artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes and black olives, which then gets the addition of fresh tomatoes, basil and Parmesan shavings once it has been cooked.

Sliema - 21332480 Ta’ Xbiex - 27119936 Web: www.amigos.com.mt amigos malta

NEW YORK BEST Staying true to its roots, New York Best specialises in New York style pizzas, achieving the perfect balance of chewy vs crunchy. Caputo flour, imported from Napoli to make a 24-hour, slow-rise dough ensures the very best in pizza crust while their simple toppings are made using the freshest ingredients – roasted local zenguli tomatoes for the sauce and custom-made scamortza made by La Maltesa. They shy away from the usual ‘loaded’ capriciosa and go for more purist toppings such as the pizza bianca with ricotta, spinach and pancetta or the meatball pizza and salsa verde which are symonymous with the most famous New York City pizza houses Lombardi’s and Patsy’s.

Sliema, St Julian’s, Msida Tel: 27282899 newyorkbest

AL LENGA The best pizzas are those that stick to tradition. At Al Lenga, situated in Marsaskala, just a stone’s throw from St Thomas’ Bay, this is exactly what you’ll get.

They use traditional wood burning ovens to get the perfect cornicione (pizza crust) and their pizzaiolo is Italian. The toppings at Al Lenga are always the freshest possible and our favourite ones would have to be the one topped with cream, pistachio pesto, fresh mozzarella di bufola, speck, porcini, Paremsan and fresh basil.

Sensi Hotel, Tal-Gardiel, Marsaskala Tel: 79058368 sensipizzeria

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PIZZA PIZZA 4U Pizza 4U specialises in take away food with a wide range of items including pizzas. So if you’re hanging out at home wondering what to have to dinner, a cheesy pizza is just a phone call away. One of the latest additions to their menu goes by the name of Cher and is made with a homemade tomato sauce, mozzarella and topped with ricotta, cherry tomatoes and rucola. Sounds tempting?

5, Schembri Street, Hamrun Tel: 21255000 pizza4Umalta

SOTTO PIZZERIA Sotto, as that name implies, is located in a basement in South Street, sheltered from the elements and the crowds in a cosy subterranean space. The pizzas here are top notch, made in a wood-burning oven and served promptly, perfect for that quick weekday dinner. The staff are knowledgeable and the selection of wines is impressive. Prices are reasonable and the pizzas have a sort of oblong shape – perfect for sharing, should you be feeling generous that way.

32, South Street, Valletta Tel: 21220077 pizzeriasotto

Pizza Amore e Fantasia As far as pizzerias go we have mostly selected spots where you can sit down and eat in.

But one little take away joint in Gzira’s busy food centre provides you with the perfect accompaniment to a night in, with friends or alone! They use all of the greatest ingredients and stay true to Italian pizza-making methods. If you’re planning a night in, pass by this little place. You won’t be disappointed.

206, The Strand, Gzira Tel: 21324544 Pizza-Amore-E-Fantasia

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PIZZA

STICKING TO NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS Napoli is the motherland of pizza with every different type of pizza being an offshoot of the Neapolitan style crust. Sciantusi sticks to their Neapolitan roots, following the strict rules that give you a superior product. RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR finds out exactly what this takes.

V

erace Pizza Napoletana, or VPN, translates as the true Neapolitan pizza. This is the gold standard of Italian pizzas.

Although anyone can put together a little water and yeast, smother it in tomato sauce and top it with cheese, we need some way to be able to draw out the really good ones. This is where the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana comes in. This association in Italy takes it upon itself to certify the Neapolitan pizzas that are done right.

So what does this really mean?

For a pizza to be certified as VPN, they can only be made of certain types of ingredients, made in approved equipment and made in the traditional pizza-making methods. There are parameters on oven temperature, how long the pizza is allowed to cook and what size and shape the final product should be.

So, if all of these restrictions mean that only the very best pizzas pass the test and become VPN certified, where do we get a VPN pizza in Malta.

While there are no fully certified VPN pizzerias in Malta, one Sliema restaurant is following all the rules. At Sciantusi, the pizziaolos, two of three brothers who own the restaurant, left a VPN-certified restaurant in Naples and wanted to provide the same experience here in Malta. They have set up their pizzeria with an oven that has already been certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana.

The ingredients they use all strictly adhere to the Neapolitan style with the

bases being made from just 00 flour, salt, yeast and water.

Their toppings are all DOP certified (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) meaning that they are of the highest quality; pomodoro San Marzano DOP, fior di latte DOP, mozzarella di bufala DOP, ricotta di bufala DOP among others.

What ultimately matters is their customers’ seal of approval and by the looks of things it seems that this place will have plenty of customers lining up around the block.

Sciantusi 2, Milner Street, Sliema Tel: 21313181 Web: www.sciatnusi.com.mt Sciantusi

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PHOTOGRAPHY: RAY ATTARD

The warm comfort of bread and melted cheese Anyone who has ever lived abroad can appreciate just how wonderful Maltese bread is particularly when it is still warm. Of course everyone should appreciate it but its not until you have to live without it that you fully understand how comforting Maltese bread really is. For the very best fresh Maltese bread you have to trust a Qormi bakery and Emanuel’s goes one step further by turning this crusty bread into pizzas.

RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR indulges in some cheesy goodness

T

he only thing that can make bread even better is melted cheese. At Emanuel’s Bakery they mix the two, using fresh bread dough to make pizzas. Fresh, warm and oozing with gooey cheese and lots of toppings, they are the perfect comfort food on a cold and windy day or the perfect cure for a hangover.

Just outside Emanuel’s Bakery in Qormi a crowd of people hurry back to their cars and turn their dashboards into make shift tables while they sink their teeth into the soothing comfort of the Gozo inspired pizzas, topped with sliced potato and sesame seeds.

Qormi bread has a reputation for being the best on the island. And the Mangions at Emanuel’s Bakery carry that torch proudly. Matthew Mangion tells me about life at the bakery.

The bakery was set up by Emmanuel Mangion over 60 years ago. In that time very little has changed, though his son, Edwin, and later his grandchildren, Matthew, Mark, Joseph and David, took over the running of the bakery.

The secret, Matthew says, is sticking

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to tradition. The wood oven is the most important part of any bakery and the one at Emanuel’s is made from a rare stone from Gozo that radiates the right amount of heat for a crispy loaf, with a feathery-soft inside.

Insofar as ingredients go, there is little that goes into Maltese bread – water, flour, yeast, salt and of course a portion of sour dough made from yesterday’s batch.

The traditional oven is still used as it was years ago when few people had their own ovens – for the Sunday roast.

“People still bring their roast over to us

in the morning before they go to Sunday Mass to slow cook in our ovens for three or four hours.” Just imagine the smells of bread and a variety of roasting meats on a Sunday morning! Enough to make your mouth water!

Although the hobza Maltija is at the heart of the bakery, it is not the only thing on the menu. Over the last year, Matthew has developed a following for his phenomenal pizza ftiras. Like the ones from Gozo, these hunks of bread contain all sorts of toppings and have garnered a following from as far away as Mellieha. Pulled pork, barbeque chicken or the Italian style Parma ham and rucola are just some of the toppings available at Emanuel’s. And of course, the real Gozo influence can be seen in the finely sliced potato that covers some of their pizzas.

This isn’t a restaurant as you know it.

The pizzas come out of the oven and go straight into a box so you have to take them home to eat them. I challenge you to make it to your destination without taking a bite or five out dinner before you make it!

PIZZA

Emanuel’s Bakery Triq il-Mithna Qormi Tel: 21482239

Emanuels-Bakery

PIPPA MATTEI

30 www.gourmettoday.recipes PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

FLIP IT

GETTING SET FOR PANCAKE DAY Pancake day is just around the corner – on 28 February to be precise – but what is pancake day? And why do we celebrate it.

Though it seems that this is just another food celebration we inherited from our American friends at the dawn of social media, pancake day, or Shrove Tuesday, has its roots in Christianity. Shrove comes from the word shrive, meaning absolution from sins by doing penance. It is no wonder then that Shrove Tuesday comes just the day before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent. The idea is to empty the fridge of eggs and milk, which, traditionally, were prohibited during the 40 days of fasting leading up to Easter.

So whether you’re planning on fasting for Lent or not, this is a great excuse to bring out the maple syrup, lemons, sugar, Nutella, jam or anything else you love on your pancakes and practice those tossing Get more of techniques Pippa’s recipes in her book Pippa’s Festa.

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PIPPA MATTEI Pippa’s perfect pancakes Makes 12 Ingredients • 500ml milk • 2 eggs • 200g plain flour • 1 tsp salt • To cook the pancakes, approx 50g lard or sunflower oil Method 1. Place all the ingredients in the food processor except the flour and liquidize at minimum speed.

2. Remove the cap and spoon in the flour.

3. Replace the cap and switch on to maximum speed. Blend for 30 seconds.

4. Allow to stand for 15 mins.

5. Using a small crepe pan approx 23cm in diameter, melt 1 tbsp of lard or oil in the pan on high heat, swirling it round to cover the whole pan. Tip the excess fat. (The pan needs to be coated in fat, but the pancakes should not be cooked in fat).

6. Turn the heat down to medium and add 1 ladle of the pancake mix, tipping it around from side to side to get the base evenly coated. It should only take 30 seconds or so to cook.

7. Lift the edge with a palette knife and if the pancake is tinged golden underneath, carefully turn it over with an egg-slicer or toss it if you think you can and cook for a further 10 seconds.

8. Carefully slip the pancake onto a sheet of greaseproof paper.

9. Continue like this, adding 1 tbsp of the melted fat until all the pancakes are ready (heat more fat if necessary).

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PIPPA MATTEI SWEET OR SAVOURY This recipe works for both sweet and savoury pancakes. Use these for cannelloni recipe below If using for cannelloni, set aside with greaseproof paper in between each pancake till you are ready to use them after you have made the filling and sauces.

If you want to eat them straight away as a sweet, keep the pancakes warm and serve immediately either with a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and a sprinkling of sieved icing sugar, or alternatively with some Maple syrup (or even fill up with a chocolate spread!!)

Read on for all recipes

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Pancake cannelloni While you can use any savoury fillings of your choice to make a great meal using pancakes, what better way to enjoy them smothered in tomato sauce and melted cheese? Use this pancake recipe to make cannelloni with a variety of fillings. Each recipe makes enough filling for 24 pancakes therefore you will need to double your pancake recipe!

Ingredients • • • • •

Filling of your choice 24 pancakes Béchamel Tomato sauce Parmesan, mozzarella or cheddar

Method 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Place about 2 tbsp of the filling of your choice in the centre of each pancake.

Fold in the ends and roll up neatly.

Pack them side-by-side in a well buttered oven-to-table dish.

Pour the prepared tomato sauce over them, and then pour on the béchamel sauce down the centre.

6.

7.

Sprinkle some extra grated cheese such as parmesan or cheddar or mozzarella over them, and bake for about 45 minutes until very hot and bubbling.

Allow to settle for 5 mins and serve one cannelloni per person as a starter, or two as a main course, making sure each is well coated with the two topping sauces.

Beef and spinach Ingredients • • • • • • • • •

600g fresh beef and pork, minced 2 tbsp oil 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ tsp oregano A few basil leaves 2 tbsp tomato puree (kunserva) 1kg fresh spinach, cooked and drained (or 250g frozen spinach, cooked and drained) 1 egg

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• • •

50ml fresh cream Salt and pepper 6 tbsp Parmesan or cheddar cheese, grated

Method 1.

2.

Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the peeled and chopped onion and crushed garlic. Cook until the onion is soft.

Add the meat and cook, stirring occasionally, until brown. Pour off

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

any surplus fat.

Add the oregano, basil and tomato puree, and cook uncovered for a few minutes. Add the prepared spinach to the meat mixture.

Mix well and take off the heat.

Add the grated cheese.

Combine lightly beaten egg and the cream and pour over the meat mixture.

Mix well, season with salt and pepper and set aside until required to fill the pancakes.

PIPPA MATTEI Chicken and ham Ingredients • • • • • • • •

500g chicken breast 1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped 250g good ham, chopped Salt and pepper 40g butter 40g plain flour 425ml cold milk 2 tbsp Parmesan, grated

Spinach and ricotta

Asparagus and smoked salmon

Ingredients

Ingredients

•

•

• • • • •

1kg fresh spinach or 250g frozen spinach, cooked, well drained and chopped 1kg ricotta cheese 2 eggs A pinch of nutmeg 6 tbsp Parmesan, grated Salt and pepper

Method 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

• • • •

Method

Method 1.

•

200g smoked salmon, roughly chopped 1 bunch fresh asparagus, cooked and chopped 1kg ricotta or cottage cheese 6 tbsp cream or mascarpone cheese 4 tbsp Parmesan, grated Salt and pepper

Gently fry the chicken breast in butter till cooked through, adding salt and pepper.

Remove from the pan, chop and set aside.

Make a white sauce by combining the butter, flour, milk and salt and pepper in a saucepan over a medium heat.

Whisk until the sauce begins to bubble and thicken. Stir over a low heat until very thick, then add the grated parmesan cheese to the sauce.

Remove from the heat and add the chicken, ham and parsley.

Mix together and adjust the seasoning and set aside until ready to make the pancakes.

Mix all the ingredients together and set aside until ready to fill the cannelloni pancakes.

1.

Mix all the ingredients together and set aside until ready to fill the cannelloni.

Béchamel sauce Ingredients 4.

• • • • • • •

750ml milk, warmed 6 level tbsp flour or corn flour 100g butter 50g Parmesan or cheddar, grated 1 bay leaf A pinch of nutmeg Salt and white pepper

Method 1.

2.

3.

Warm the milk in a saucepan very gently.

Melt the butter in another saucepan over a medium heat.

Add the flour or corn flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until a roux is

5.

6.

7.

formed (thick creamy blend).

Slowly add the warmed milk to the roux, stirring continuously until it begins to thicken.

Add the bay leaf, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Continue stirring for about 6 mins, by which time the sauce should have reached a smooth creamy consistency.

Remove the bay leaf and add the grated If not using the béchamel cheese.

Take off straight away cover wit h the heat greaseproof paper to and stir pre ven t a skin from forming well.

Simple fresh tomato sauce with basil Ingredients

Method

•

1.

• • • • • •

1kg pulpy red tomatoes, skinned and chopped (or 2 tins) 4 tbsp tomato purée (kunserva) 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 3 tbsp sugar Handful of basil leaves (torn, not chopped) 4 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper

2.

3.

4.

Heat olive oil in a saucepan and add the garlic, salt and pepper.

Fry until the garlic turns golden, then add the tomatoes plus the tomato purée.

Add sugar and the torn basil leaves.

Stir well and then allow to thicken over a low heat, put aside.

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SCOTCH PANCAKES Another sweet pancake recipe with a difference is this for SCOTCH PANCAKES. This recipe was actually given to me by my friend Anna Murray Curtis.

These pancakes are excellent to make when one has prepared nothing for tea because they are whipped up and cooked in a jiffy. Keep them hot in a tea towel and when ready, spread them with butter and your favourite jam. (Anna also makes microwave strawberry jam in 20 minutes, - recipe in my book - 25 Years In A Maltese Kitchen) Serves 4 hungry people – make more!

Ingredients • 125g (5oz) self-raising flour • 15g (½ oz) sugar • 1 egg • 125 ml (4 flu oz) milk • Some lard or margarine or butter or oil • You will need a heavy frying pan or griddle Method 1. Put the flour and sugar in a bowl, add the egg and half the milk and beat with a whisk till smooth. Add the remaining milk and beat until bubbles rise to the surface.

2.

Rub the griddle or frying pan with a wad of kitchen paper and salt. Wipe clean and then grease very lightly with your chosen fat. Just before cooking the scones, heat the pan until the fat is ‘hazing’, then wipe the surface again with another piece of kitchen paper.

3.

Now ladle the batter onto the heated pan in 6 cm (2 ½ inches) rounds well spaced apart. When bubbles rise to the surface, turn the scones with a palette knife and cook for another 30 seconds or until turning golden brown. Place on a cooking rack and cover with a clean tea towel while the rest are being cooked. As soon as you can, spread with butter and jam and serve at once….delicious!

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PICKING GRAPES

Much like a person, every wine variety has its own characteristics.

Here we profile one grape variety and even pick some of our favourites.

t e b r e Cab n o n g i S auv C

abernet sauvignon is perhaps one of the most sought-after reds.

Although we see this as a variety on its own, it is actually a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc which occurred naturally in the 1600s and has evolved since then to become what it is known today.

Different cabernets have different taste profiles depending on the terroir in which they are grown. An Old World cabernet and a New World one are two completely different wines.

In the old world, 100% cabernets

TASTE PROFILE

The flavour of different cabernet sauvignons differs as a result of the different terroirs in which this grape grows across the world.

Cab sauv is a full-bodied red with dark fruit flavours including black cherries, black currants and blackberries, along with savoury tastes from black pepper and tobacco to bell pepper, liquorice, vanilla and violet.

A great description for cabernet by wine website www.winefolly.com says “imagine you’ve filled a new leather bad with a pound of black cherries and held it to your chest while rolling down a hill.”

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are rare as old world winemakers are great at blending varietals.

Cabernet sauvignon from Bordeaux tastes more like the herbal floral flavours of graphite, violets and tobacco rather than fruit. They taste a little lighter but have strong tannins and acidity that will last on your tongue. Bordeaux vintages worth your while inlclude 2009, 2008 and 2005.

Cabernets from the New World, on the other hand are just a little fruiter than their Old World cousins. Expect flavours of black cherries, liquorice, black pepper and vanilla. They have less tannins than a typical Bordeaux but also have more alcohol ranging from 13.5% to 15.5%.

FOOD PAIRING

One of the more complex and layered wines out there, its high tannins demand foods that are high in fat and umami flavours. Have a glass of cabernet sauvignon with a charred gruyere burger, a mushroom pizza, a rib eye steak or braised short ribs. The powerful umami flavours overcome the savoury quality of the wine leaving you with the intense berry flavours.

ONE FOR THE CELLAR Though we love to quaff our wine, there are some that deserve to be treated better. This is one you should have in your cellars.

Winery Tours & Tastings by Appointment Ta’Qali ATD 4000 - Tel: +356 2141 5301 Email: info@meridiana.com.mt

www.meridiana.com.mt

GRAND VIN DE CHATEAU LATOUR 2008 Country of origin: Bordeaux, France Grape varieties: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot Very deep garnet-purple coloured, the 2008 Latour has a youthfully subdued nose revealing notes of red plums and mulberries with underlying suggestions of damp earth, iron ore, pencil lead and dried Provencal herbs. The palate is superbly structured with firm, tight-knit grainy tannins and crisp acid supporting the muscular fruit, finishing long and savoury.

TOP CABERNETS PETER LEHMANN Country of origin: Australia, Barossa Valley Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon This wine was named in honour of Peter Lehmann, who mentored many people over his 50-year career. A highly complex and layered Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon, with the highest quality fruit drawn from different sites, each adding their own unique flavours. The nose shows expressive aromas of concentrated dark fruit and chocolate, whilst the palate has a remarkably silky texture and great length on the finish. A top wine from Lehmann, that can truly improve with age!

Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon is distributed by Red October. www.redoctobermalta.com

Wine & Spirit Merchants Stadium Street, Gzira GZR 1301 Tel: 2133 0047 Mob: 7909 3197 Email: info@srausi.com

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www.srausi.com

PRIMUS - A FLAGSHIP FOR MALTESE WINE

M

altese native Ġellewża grapes make themselves at home in the land in which they grow and allow themselves to be guided by the caring hands of the viticulturist. Once in their prime, they are harvested and passed on to the winemaker, who whilst respecting and protecting the strong bond created between grape and earth and without being too imposing, employs his skills to encourage the natural flavour precursors innate within the grape to flourish into PRIMUS. In 2006, the Marsovin Winery felt that

the local wine industry ought to be given a premium level wine made from the indigenous red grape - Ġellewża. Through intuitive experimentation and by virtue of chance, Primus was created, the first Imqadded Ta’ Malta wine ever produced in Malta. The process is similar to that of an Amarone Della Valpolicella except that the grapes are sun dried after harvest rather than cold dried. The grapes are handpicked just as they reach full ripeness in September, then they are left untouched in grape crates to sun dry on the winery’s roof. During this time, the grapes are

naturally dehydrated by the elements, adding to the concentration of aromas, sugars and acids in the juice. Temperatures in September are still high in Malta between 25 to 35°C, so the sun drying period is relatively short, ranging between 2-3 weeks, depending on the variety.

The Syrah (40% of the blend) generally dries faster than the Ġellewża due to the difference in size and thickness of grape skin. Following pressing and fermentation the resulting wine is transferred into 225-litre new French oak barrels and left to rest and mature at the Marsovin Cellars for a period of 17 months.

Terroir The Ġellewża variety comes from 30-year-old vines situated in the quaint village of Mġarr where soil is clay-based, the Shiraz on the other hand comes from Siġġiewi where the soil is based on a mix of clay, sand and lime soil. The classification in the D.O.K protocol for this wine is “Imqadded Ta’ Malta”. This may be used exclusively for wines made from grapes which have undergone a drying process, in whole or in part, on the vine or after harvest, resulting in the concentration of grape sugars to a minimum natural alcoholic strength of 13.5% vol.

Tasting notes and food pairing Primus is a deeply concentrated ruby-

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purple-coloured wine displaying distinct tears with intense aromas of dried fruits and amarena cherries, marrying well with new oak barrel flavours of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg leaving a very pleasant, lingering, dry finish. When dining one must make sure that the right food is chosen to compliment Primus’ strong character. This wine is best paired with beef, game and stews such as beefsteak, horse meat, lamb, veal, rabbit, wild boar and deer. Primus also works well with strongly flavoured, sharp and very ripe cheeses. A few suggestions include the dried Provolone Piccante, artisanal Pecorino Romano, gorgonzola naturale – which is the intense, aged version of gorgonzola and, Parmigiano Reggiano, the king of cheeses.

Primus was created to represent the first premium Maltese wine to be produced from the indigenous grape variety, Ġellewża. To date, no premium Maltese wine has ever been produced with Ġellewża. The aim of this concept is to raise the standard of the indigenous variety. This wine proves that when Ġellewża is dried after harvesting it can produce a wine of significant character and body, with this wine the Maltese and foreign wine drinker has a brand which they can be very proud of, and truly call it a flagship for Maltese wine of premium international standards.

This wine is available for sale from the Marsovin Cellars and from all leading retail and restaurant outlets. For more information contact 23662445 or cellars@marsovinwinery.com

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MASTERING FOOD, BUT KEEPING IT SIMPLE When launching a new food market offering quality Italian products, it makes sense to get a renowned chef on board. And very few chefs come better-qualified or as recommended as Bruno Barbieri – one of Italy’s most successful, even amongst today’s celebrity chefs. PAUL COCKS meets up with him during his stay in Malta

B

runo Barbieri was in Malta in December to give his seal of approval to Upper Food, a project spearheaded by Giovanni Dato and Fabrizio Crimi, two Italian businessmen based in Malta.

Their aim: make available high-quality Italian products, in season, to provide an authentic Italian culinary experience reminiscent of the great cuisine our neighbouring country is famous for.

Barbieri told Gourmet he immediately recognised that Upper Food was a genius idea that would serve to educate people on the range and seasonality of good quality products.

“This idea is a winner and the project we have embarked upon is a very strong one that will see locals and tourists alike exposed to a new quality of product from Italy,” he said.

It was the aim of Upper Food to not only target the end consumer, but also to establish strong relations with chefs around Malta who would prefer to buy seasonal quality products directly from source.

“Upper Food is a good idea on so many levels, because it will serve as a spotlight, highlighting produce that will be sourced from small producers around Italy … producers that pay a lot of attention to the food they grow,” he said.

The focus was on quality, Barbieri explained, making Upper Food all about seasonality and guaranteeing a supply of fresh – if diverse – produce throughout the year.

Barbieri – who was born in 1962 and grew up in Bologna – says he owes his love for cooking to his grandmother, who used to teach him all about the food she placed on the table.

Today, he has been in the business for 30plus years and is one of Italy’s best-known chefs and one of the most successful. He has seven Michelin stars to his name, the highest among all Italian chefs.

Giovanni Dato, Chef Bruno Barbieri and Fabrizio Crimi Barbieri has authored many books, including one dedicated to gluten-free cooking, and was the star of hit television shows for Gambero Rosso Channel.

Barbeiri joined chefs Carlo Cracco, chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo and the American restaurateur Joe Bastianich as one of the judges in all editions of Masterchef Italia and in the first edition of Celebrity Masterchef.

His cooking philosophy is based on a refined technique, fast cooking and, above all, the excellent quality of the raw materials that he chooses.

He is a strong believer in the need for a chef to travel in order to gain new inspiration through meeting new people and ideas.

Barbieri said he has been coming to Malta for the past ten years and believes he – and his two partners in Upper Food – know the needs of the local market.

He says Malta has great potential but that it needs to develop its cuisine further.

“Being an island and surrounded by the sea is a big plus,” he said. “But I look at Malta as still being under development and having so much more to discover.”

Barbieri said he appreciated Maltese traditional cuisine but insisted it needed some great chefs to modernise the Maltese dishes and make them marketable winners worldwide.

“In a nutshell, food has changed because the world has changed and people have

“BARBIERI COULD BE THE CATALYST THAT MAY SERVE TO ELEVATE THE SIMPLE MALTESE DISHES TO NEW HEIGHTS”

changed,” he said. “Maltese food needs to change as well, while staying faithful to its roots.”

Barbieri said Maltese cuisine was simple, yet plentiful and flavourful.

That makes it even more special to a chef that has based his culinary success on simplicity.

It makes it easier for him to understand the Maltese mindset and palate and to envision how Maltese dishes could be modernised to be presented at the world’s greatest restaurants.

Through Upper Food, Barbieri is – knowingly or not – taking it upon himself to provide local chefs and restaurateurs with all they need to take Maltese cuisine to the next level.

As he did in Italy and in many other countries, Barbieri could be the catalyst that may serve to elevate the simple Maltese dishes to new heights.

His cooking philosophy of keeping food simple and uncomplicated, yet focusing on quality and seasonality, should be an inspiration and a starting-point for local chefs.

Bruno Barbieri has thrown down the gauntlet. As to whether any local chef will take up the challenge, only time will tell.

Upper Food Triq Tal-Ibragg, c/w Il-Modd, Sweiqi Tel: 27037821

Upper.FoodsMT

In Season

THE POOR MAN’S SWEET POTATO

By Gaby Holland

D

espite its name, the sweet potato is not related to the potato but belongs to the morning glory family, (potatoes are members of the Solanaceae family) which also includes tomatoes, red peppers and eggplant. Sweet potatoes are tuberous roots and potatoes are actually swollen stems. Sweet potatoes

Sweet Potatoes

46 www.gourmettoday.recipes

are also often confused with yams although they are not related either, but share similar characteristics in appearance and taste.

Sweet potatoes are native to Peru with remnants found dating back as far as 8000 BC. Today there are hundreds of sweet potato varieties with different skin and flesh colour

PHOTOGRAPHY: GABY HOLLAND

ranging from pink and purple to cream and orange.

They have become a favourite staple ingredient throughout the world and are used in various ethnic cuisines. In America sweet potatoes were cheap to buy and gained a reputation as “food for the poor”. They had lost their popularity when people became more affluent, however the sweet potato is making a comeback, mostly because it is recognised for being another tasty and nutritious super food. They pack a powerful nutritional punch with over 400% of your daily needs for vitamin A in one medium potato, as well as vitamin C, loads of fibre and potassium.

Many studies have suggested that a higher consumption of plant foods like sweet potatoes decreases the risk of obesity, diabetes, heart disease and overall mortality while promoting a healthy complexion, increased energy, and reduce overall weight.

Use sweet potatoes as you would use normal potatoes to make simple mashes, roast them until they caramelize, or include them to casseroles, gratins, and pies.

The sweet potato is the sixth principal world food crop, and approximately 90% of the worlds’ crop is grown in Asia.

There was a shortage of wheat flour during WWI, so sweet potato flour was added to baked goods to stretch the wheat flour.

•

The first recorded instance of the name “sweet potato” was in the Oxford English Dictionary of 1775.

In South America, a dye is made combining the juice of red sweet potatoes with lime juice.

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Some companies in Taiwan are successfully making a type of fuel from sweet potatoes.

Christopher Columbus is thought to have introduced the sweet potato into Europe.

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Fun Fact s

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BAKED STUFFED SWEET POTATOES Ingredients • 4 large sweet potatoes • 1 large onion, chopped • 2 cloves garlic, chopped • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 tbsp milk • Small knob of butter • 1 tsp harissa (or chilli powder) • 100g feta cheese, chopped • Salt and pepper • 2 tbsp pumpkin or sunflower seeds • Fresh chopped chives

Method 1. Bake the potatoes, loosely wrapped in foil for about 50 mins or until tender.

(Alternatively you may cook them in a microwave. Microwave on high for 8 to 10 mins or until tender, turning the potatoes once.)

2. Remove from oven and let them cool before cutting in half.

3. Meanwhile fry the onions and garlic in the olive oil until golden, set aside.

4. Carefully scoop out the flesh

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from the potatoes keeping the skins intact.

Place flesh in bowl and mash adding the milk, butter and seasoning.

Mix in the fried onions and stir in the feta cheese.

Fill the skins with the mash and scatter seeds.

Return to the oven 200°C and bake for a further 20 mins until crisped up.

Serve with a side salad to make a complete meal or as a side dish.

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istro 48 www.gourmettoday.recipes

PRECA SISTERS BACK FOR A SECOND RUN ON GOURMET TODAY TV You may have caught Roberta and Ramona Preca on yesterday’s Gourmet Today TV show.

The girls are back for an eight-episode run after the success of last year’s shows. Working with Coca Cola, the girls are preparing easy recipes that are easy to replicate for anyone – whether you’re looking to create a romantic meal to share with your partner, something to feed a group of rowdy kids, or to have a calm and civilised dinner that could get less civilised as the night goes on. Whatever the occasion, the Preca sisters have you covered and always pair your meals with a Coca Cola

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Surf and turf burgers Serves 2 Ingredients

Method 1.

• • • • • • • • •

500g lobster 400g minced Angus beef 6 asparagus 200g mayonnaise Olive oil 4 hamburger buns Salt and pepper Lettuce leaves Wedges potato

2.

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Fresh horseradish sauce • 1 cup mayonnaise • 10g grated horseradish

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5.

Divide the minced beef into two and form into patties.

Season with salt and pepper and fry in a pan until done on both sides (We recommend cooking the burger to medium, but cook to your liking).

Saute the lobster meat in olive oil and fresh garlic and season with salt and pepper.

Grill the asparagus until charred on both sides.

Prepare horseradish mayonnaise by whisking together the mayo and grated horseradish and set aside.

6.

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Toast the burger bun and get ready to assemble.

Place a thick layer of the horseradish sauce on the bottom of the burger bun.

Add a lettuce leaf, the burger patty and the lobster and top with the grilled asparagus.

Drizzle with olive oil and serve with potato wedges.

This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 26 February, 2017.

Gourmet seafood burger Serves 2 Ingredients Burgers • 2 fish fillets (100g each) • ¼ plain flour • Salt and pepper • 2 jumbo soft-shell crabs, cleaned • 2 tbsp canola or vegetable oil • 1 tbsp unsalted butter • 6 medium prawns • 150g seaweed Tartar sauce • ½ cup mayonnaise • 1 tbsp red onion, minced • 1 tbsp capers, rinsed and finely chopped • 1 tbsp chives, finely chopped • Handful parsley, chopped Method 1.

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Whisk together all of the ingredients for the tartar sauce and set aside.

In a wide, shallow bowl, combine the flour with the vegetable oil and season with salt and pepper.

Dredge the crabs through the flour mixture to coat on both sides (if the top shells are thicker than a piece of paper, pull them off before dredging).

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet (preferably cast iron) over mediumhigh heat until hot.

Add the butter to the skillet and swirl the pan to melt it.

Add the crabs top side down and cook, shaking the pan once or twice, until crisp and browned, approx. 3 mins.

The crabs may pop and splatter, so be careful. Flip the crabs and cook until crisp and just cooked through about 3 mins more.

Transfer the crabs to a large papertowel-lined plate.

In the same pan, fry the fillets of fish until done and transfer to a papertowel-lined plate.

Grill the prawns and set aside.

Toast the burger buns and set aside.

When ready to serve, assemble the burgers by spreading the tartar sauce on the burger bun.

Top with a leaf of lettuce and 1 or 2 slices of tomato.

Top with one of the fish fillets and one of the crabs.

Serve with seaweed.

This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 26 February, 2017.

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+356 2137 4894 fb.stjulians@islandhotels.com www.lebistromalta.com

Tempting.

AT THE RADISSON BLU RESORT, ST JULIAN'S 52 www.gourmettoday.recipes

GET IT WHILE IT’S HOT Everyone loves a hot dessert, no matter the weather. But when it’s cold outside that warm dessert is even more satisfying. Pair it with ice cream and the hot-cold combination is so deliciously moreish you’d better be making plans for seconds, and maybe even thirds. Erin Cauchi, pastry chef at Radisson Blu Resort, St Julian’s, shares some incredible recipes that you’ll want to have for breakfast, lunch and dinner

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

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Chocolate and hazelnut parcels Ingredients • 5 eggs • 5 egg yolks • 125g sugar • 250g butter • 400g dark chocolate • 50g flour • 100g hazelnut, crushed

Method 1. Whisk the eggs, egg yolks and the sugar until pale.

2. Melt the butter, adding the chocolate.

3. Mix into the egg mixture and fold the flour and the nuts.

4. Allow to set until hard and form into a small ball.

5. Cut the filo pastry in small squares,

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brush with butter and put another square.

Brush with butter again add a little bit of the chocolate mix into the centre of the pastry.

Press the ends of the pastry to form a money bag.

Deep-fry in hot oil until crisp and serve immediately.

Mixed berry pudding Ingredients

Method

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250g frozen forest fruit 280g castor sugar 125ml milk 3 tbsp whisky 150g flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp cinnamon powder

4.

Divide the forest fruit in 8 ramekins.

Preheat oven to 160°C. Whisk together the eggs, milk, lemon zest, and vanilla in a bowl until combined.

Place flour, baking powder, and sugar in a bowl.

5.

6.

Pour the eggs into the dry ingredients, whisking well to form a smooth batter.

Pour over the fruit than bake for 20 mins until golden and firm to touch.

Serve warm.

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Sticky toffee pudding Ingredients • 325g butter • 325g sugar • 325g dates • 500g water • 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda • 325g flour • 4 eggs Toffee sauce • 400g sugar • 700g cooking cream • 150g butter Method Preheat the oven to 160OC. 1. Soak the dates in the water and bicarbonate of soda.

2. Cream the butter and sugar until pale.

3. Add two of the eggs and beat, followed by the flour, beating again and then the remaining eggs.

4. Put into greased moulds and bake in the oven for 30 mins until gold in colour.

5. To make the toffee sauce, cook the sugar with some water until gold colour, add the cream and finally the butter. Set aside to cool. Make the sauce ahead of time and re-heat just before serving.

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Pear upside-down cake Ingredients Topping • 60g unsalted butter • 65g light brown sugar • 3 to 4 ripe pears Batter • 150g flour • 30g baking powder • 1 tsp salt • 130g unsalted butter • 130g sugar • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 2 large eggs, separated • 65ml whole milk

sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 mins.

7. Add the vanilla extract and beat to combine.

8. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating to combine.

9. Alternating with the milk, gradually add the flour mixture to the butter mixture, and mix, on low speed, just until the flour is incorporated.

10. In a large bowl, beat reserved egg whites with a hand mixer until stiff but not dry. Using a rubber spatula, fold egg whites into batter.

11. Bake until well browned on top and the cake tester inserted into the centre comes out clean (approx. 45 mins).

12. Serve warm.

Method 1. To make the topping, melt butter in the bottom of a 10½-inch cast-iron skillet over low heat.

2. Add the brown sugar, stirring until dissolved. Swirl to coat the bottom, remove from heat, and cool.

3. Cut pears into ¼ inch thick wedges, and arrange them in a circular pattern over the brownsugar mixture to cover completely and set aside.

4. Preheat the oven to 1700C. 5. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder and salt and set aside.

6. In a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and

The Tastiest Way to Being Healthy.

Collect wrappers and exchange for gifts & money vouchers at: CD Gift Scheme Centre, Vincenti Buildings, 15/2 Strait Street, Valletta.

Tel: 2123 6629. Trade Enquiries Tel: 2269 3000

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HOMECOOKS

CHI

Y: JAMES BIAN

PHOTOGRAPH

HOMECOOKS

In the winter lunches need to be made with all the right ingredients to bring comfort to our freezing souls. Hot cheese, roasted meats, warm desserts, great wines and the best of company can make any cold day that little bit warmer. Our homecooks prepare a comforting winter meal best enjoyed with family and friends. Gaby Holland kicks off the meal with a delicate dish of pumpkin and potato gnocchi served with a creamy Taleggio sauce. Nick Formosa goes on to make a roasted pork belly with Granny Smith apples and roasted fennel bulbs topped with Parmesan. Pascal Holland winds up the meal with a hot bread and butter pudding with chocolate and banana topped with plenty whisky custard to banish the cold www.gourmettoday.recipes 61

LEYDA - CHARDONNAY Refined and complex on the nose. Ripe citrus character like lemons and tangerines combines with almond and mineral aromas. Its fine and intergrated oak notes add complexity. All in all, an elegant Chardonnay that captivates with its salinity, fresh fruit and soft toasted palate.

HOMECOOKS Most recipes call for boiling the potatoes but steaming them will give you a less watery result.

POTATO AND PUMPKIN GNOCCHI WITH TALEGGIO SAUCE Serves 4 Ingredients • 800g starchy potatoes (not new potatoes) • 500g sliced pumpkin • 200g 00 plain flour • 1 large egg, beaten • Pinch of nutmeg • Salt and pepper Taleggio sauce • 200g Taleggio, cut into cubes • 30g plain flour • 300g fresh milk • 30g butter • Pinch fresh grated nutmeg • Salt and pepper Method 1. To make the Taleggio sauce, heat the milk in a saucepan, add the nutmeg and set aside.

2. In another saucepan, melt the butter over a low heat, sift in the flour and give a good stir.

3. Pour in the milk, a little at a time whilst whisking continuously until you obtain a smooth white sauce.

4. Add the cheese cubes and keep whisking until cheese is melted. If too dense add a little milk.

Season with plenty of salt and pepper.

5. Preheat the oven to 190°C. 6. Place whole potatoes with their skin on in a steaming basket and steam for around 15 mins until tender.

7. Place slices of pumpkin on an oven tray, lightly oil and roast for around 20 mins until tender.

8. Mash the potatoes and the pumpkin as finely as possible using a potato ricer or a fine mesh sieve to get a really smooth mash.

9. Place the mixtures on a clean surface and make a well in the centre.

10. Add the eggs and season with nutmeg, salt and pepper.

11. Gently knead the mixture with your hands, adding the flour a little at a time and working quickly, to keep the gnocchi light.

12. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest in refrigerator for 20 mins.

13. shape the dough into several long rolls about 1.5cm in diameter. Cut each roll into 1.5cm pieces then roll these into sausage shapes and using a sharp knife cut it into little pillows (approx 2cm wide).

14. Press down gently with a fork to create indentation and place on a floured baking tray.

15. Bring a large pan with salted water to the boil. Gently lower the gnocchi into the water, and cook, stirring gently, until they rise to the surface – about 2 mins.

16. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain and transfer to a large, warm serving plate and serve with Taleggio sauce.

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HOMECOOKS

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ROASTED PORK BELLY WITH GRANNY SMITH APPLES Ingredients 1 2 2 1 2 6 1

tbsp fennel seed tbsp caraway seed tsp black peppercorns tbsp salt tbsp English mustard power Granny Smith apples deboned pork belly, for 6 people

Method 1. In a pestle and mortar add the fennel seed, caraway seed, black peppercorns, salt and English mustard and crush into a fine powder.

2. Slice apples into fine sticks.

3. Cut a few 50cm pieces of butcher’s string and lay them out in equal distances on a board. Lay the pork on-top of the string skin-side down.

4. Rub the dry mix into the pork and top with the apples.

5. Neatly roll the meat into a joint surrounded by the skin then use butchers’ string to tie the joint tightly at regular intervals to hold the joint together.

6. Cover and chill, leaving to marinate for a few hours or overnight.

7. When ready to cook, rub the skin of the joint with plenty of salt and olive oil 8. Put it on a wire rack and roast at 200°C for 30 mins.

9. Lower the heat to 140°C and cook for another 3 hours.

10. Once the 3 hours are done, turn the heat back up to 220°C and give it a final blast for another 20-30 mins, to finish the crisping of the skin.

11. Allow to rest for 20 mins before carving and serve with applesauce, cheesy roasted fennel and mashed potato.

Applesauce Ingredients • 3 apples • 3 tbsp sugar • Cinnamon Stick Method Add all to a pot and cook on lowest flame until softened into a sauce.

Allow to cool.

Cheesy roasted fennel Ingredient • 4 fennel bulbs • ¾ cup Parmesan, grated • Garlic bulb • Olive oil • Salt and pepper Method 1. Mix everything together and place into a roasting dish.

2. Roast for 1.5 hours (or add to the bottom shelf of the oven 1.5 hours into cooking the pork).

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Mashed potato Ingredients • 1 kg potatoes • 100g butter (more if you like them buttery) • Salt and pepper Method 1. Peel and boil the potatoes for about 25 mins or until tender.

2. Mash with a plenty of butter (the more the better) and season with salt and pepper.

CASTILLO DE MOLINA - CABERNET SAUVIGNON This wine has a complex and expressive nose characterised by fresh fruits such as plum, cherries and berries that meld with coffee and vanilla notes from the barrel aging. A fruity wine, balance on the palate with good structure and volume. Ripe, smooth tannins give for a long, persistent finish.

HOMECOOKS

BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING WITH WHISKY CUSTARD Ingredients • 8 slices bread • 1 ½ bananas, sliced • 1 cup milk chocolate chips • 1 tsp vanilla extract • ½ cup sugar • ¾ cup raisins • 1½ tbsp cinnamon • 2 handfuls walnuts • 1 cup milk • Butter • 2 eggs Whiskey custard • 570ml milk • 55ml single cream • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 4 eggs yolks • 30g caster sugar • 2 level tsp cornflour • 2-3 tbsp whisky (optional)

Method 1. Preheat oven to 175C. 2. Chop sliced bread into cubes and butter well.

3. In a large mixing bowl, whisk eggs, milk, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla until smooth.

4. Stir into the bread and add bananas, raisins walnuts and chocolate chips.

5. Allow to rest for 5 mins to allow the bread to soak up the mixture.

6. Pour into a casserole dish. Place into a larger casserole dish and fill the second dish, three quarters of the way up, with water to create a bain marie.

7. Bake for 1 hour, or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean.

8. To make the whisky custard, bring the milk, cream and vanilla extract to simmering point slowly over a low heat.

9. Whisk the yolks, sugar and cornflour together in a separate bowl until well blended.

10. Pour the hot milk and cream into the eggs mixture, whisking all the time with a balloon whisk.

11. Return to the pan and slowly bring up to a simmer, stirring constantly until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Take great care not to let the milk mixture boil or it will curdle.

12. Stir in the whisky, if using.

Serve the bread and butter pudding warm with plenty of whisky custard.

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Malta: Attard & Co. Food Ltd Tel: 21 237555 Gozo: AbrahamĘźs Supplies Co. Ltd - Tel: 21 563231 facebook.com/attardcofood

Definitive(ly) Good Guide

CHEF OF THE YEAR

7 1 0 2

Vote for the Chef of the Month

Kevin Bonello wins the Definitive(ly) Good Guide Chef of the Year Kevin Bonello, executive chef at Infinitely Xara, was presented with the award for Chef of the Year 2017 at the annual Definitive(ly) Good Guide Awards Ceremony held at The Grand Hotel Excelsior on 5 December. Lisa Grech, managing director of The Definitive(ly) Good Guide revealed the results of the survey conducted in September 2016 and over 50 awards were presented to Malta’s top restaurants on the night. To get all the results of the survey log on to www.

restaurantsmalta.com and purchase a copy of The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants 2017 edition.

The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants in Malta & Gozo felt that chefs needed to be credited more for their contribution to the success of a restaurant.

For this reason in 2015 the Chef of the Month competition and Chef of the Year award were instituted with the support of The Catering Centre and Gourmet Today.

The Chef of the month is a monthly competition conducted through www.restaurantsmalta.com in collaboration with The Catering Centre and Gourmet Today. Each month the competition highlights two chefs which have been nominated by their restaurants and diners are asked to vote for who they think should win based on the way they present their food, the creativity used in their dishes and variety of ingredients they use.

Vote for the Chef of the Month and let us know who you think should win. www.restaurantsmalta.com

Win a three-course meal for two at The Medina Restaurant including a bottle of house wine and coffee with The DeďŹ nitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today.

WIN a meal for tw o

Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at this restaurant.

Competition ends 31 March, 2017 The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.

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MEET THE CHEF OF THE YEAR

KEVIN BONELLO Kevin Bonello is executive chef with Infinitely Xara which operates five venues - its flagship de Mondion, Trattoria A.D. 1530, Xpresso Cafe & Bistro at Palazzo dePiro, The Xara Lodge and more recently The Medina How did your career progress to bring you to your present position and what are your plans for the future?

I am 39 years old, and have been in the industry for 23 years. I did a Diploma in Food & Hospitality in Malta for two years. After that I did a six-month apprenticeship in London at the Berkeley Hotel then I spent two and a half years working in renowned restaurants around the world such as Le Bristol in Paris; Gordon Ramsay, Pied a Terre and Marco Pierre White in UK and Charlie Trotters in Chicago to mention a few.

I then came to Malta and worked for two years in a couple of fivestar hotels. At the age of 22 I got the opportunity to join the Xara Palace Hotel at which time it was a 17-bedroom hotel with two restaurants – de Mondion and Trattoria. After 16 years I am still here and evolving. We have increased our restaurant portfolio to four establishments, all in Mdina, including Palazzo de Piro and The Medina and we have also branched out into banqueting with the opening of Xara Lodge in 2013.

During this time I also formed part of the national team of Maltese chefs with whom I participated in many international competitions such as the Culinary Olympics and World Cup, where I led a team and achieved the best results Malta had ever gained. In 2010 I also participated in the worldrenowned competition Bocuse d’Or. Did you always want to be a chef or did you dream of being something else?

Although at a very tender age I always loved cooking and food, I never dreamt of building a career in this sector. After I finished my secondary education I applied to follow a career in engineering. However, that year, I got a summer job in a kitchen and

that was where I noticed that this was what I wanted to do. I enrolled at the Institute of Tourism Studies and followed a course there instead of engineering school.

Duchess of Cornwall; Commonwealth Prime Ministers during the last CHOGM; actors such as Bruce Willis, Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Aniston, Brad Pitt and many others.

How important do you think formal training is for a chef?

It is the crucial part. I believe that chefs should acquire a catering school diploma, but more important is the apprenticeship that one needs to do overseas, which is a life-changing experience.

What is your favourite ingredient to work with?

I do love fish and lamb. Living in Malta makes me particularly fond of Mediterranean fish such as John Dory and red mullet. And I will always love Irish lamb.

What do you think is the secret of your success?

Be genuine and believe in what you do. Cook from the heart and be passionate. Always let the main ingredient highlight the dish and do not overpower its flavour with a lot of ingredients.

Which celebrity chef has most inspired you in the kitchen and why?

There is not a particular one really, but I do follow closely Relais & Chateaux chefs, who build their menus/cuisine in relation to their country/region in which they operate, always using the freshest of ingredients. Just to mention a couple; Regis Marcon (in France) and Max Alajmo (in Italy) Which is your favourite country for eating?

Scandinavia (Denmark, Sweden, Norway)! The reason for this choice is that they truly believe in their local produce – fish, vegetable, or game.

They have taken basic French cuisine techniques and have adapted them brilliantly to their produce.

Who is the most famous person you have ever cooked for?

There are quite a few such as Charles, Prince of Wales; Camilla,

Is there a particular ingredient you do not personally like or never use?

Not really but if I had to choose, a couple would be sweet peppers and okra.

After food, what are your other passions?

This career does not leave a lot of free time, but when I can, I love to travel, exploring different cultures and cuisines. I also like to do a 30-minute run to get the day started. Every now and then I also play a football game with friends.

What advice would you give to someone who aspires to be a chef?

It is a passionate and diverse career that gives a lot of satisfaction and reward. Although at times it will be challenging and difficult with long working hours and stress, if you have the right training and believe in what you do, eventually positive results will be achieved. It is definitely not a career for someone looking to work from nine to five, Monday to Friday.

Infinitely Xara Sqaq Tac-Cawla, Triq il-Belt, Rabat TheXaraPalace

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FEBRUARY 2017

RECIPE INDEX STARTERS Potato and pumpkin gnocchi

63

MAINS Napolitan pizza dough

20

New York pizza dough

21

Sicilian pizza dough

21

Homemade lamb pizza

22

Cannelloni

36

Meat and spinach cannelloni

36

Chicken and ham cannelloni

37

Spinach and ricotta cannelloni

37

Asparagus and smoked salmon cannelloni

37

Baked sweet potatoes

47

Surf and turf burgers

50

Seafood burgers

51

Roast pork belly

66

ACCOMPANIMENTS Bechamel sauce

37

Tomato sauce

37

Parmesan roasted fennel

66

SNACKS Perfect pancakes

33

Scotch pancakes

39

Mixed berry pudding

55

Chocolate hazelnut parcels

55

Sticky toffee pudding

57

Pear upside-down cake

59

Bread and butter pudding

67

SERVING FRESH FISH STRAIGHT OUT OF THE OCEAN

FOR RESERVATIONS PLEASE CALL: 2346 2100 FORTINA SPA RESORT, TIGNÉ SEAFRONT SLIEMA SLM 3012, MALTA WWW.FORTINASPARESORT.COM