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ISSUE 45 • A
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Spring Veggies
Six ways with marrows
Easter Goodies
Sugary treats to make with the kids
2/12/10
10:40:37 AM
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Pippa Matte
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Nick Formos
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Editor’s note
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hatever your preference of the seasons – summer or winter, few people can, hand on heart, claim that they dislike the spring (maybe if you suffer from hayfever but even then there is so much to like about spring). Warmer temperatures, longer daylight hours, and for us foodies the most important factor – the abundance of fresh veggies and berries. All these things serve as inspiration for us to get into the kitchen and try out new recipes. Pippa Mattei is a huge fan of the Farmers’ Market and for this edition she came home with a huge basket of marrows. She shares with us some of her favourite recipes for this cheap and simple vegetable, from plain boiled qarabaghli, to fritters, deep fried courgette flowers and a delectable pasta sauce with Mediterranean prawns and marrows. With spring comes the Easter celebration, where sugary treats and bright colours take over our kitchen. Although everyone loves a traditional figolla there are a great many sweets you can make at this time of year. Jimmy Aquilina of the Radisson Resort and Spa, Golden Sands shares some of his recipes and we also have a couple of recipes your kids would love to get involved with over the holidays. We would like to take this opportunity to wish you and your families a Happy Easter and hope that it is filled with love and chocolate eggs. We hope you enjoy this edition of Gourmet Today and look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions. Bon appetit!
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Pascal Holla n
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Sasha
Shumarayev
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Amy Micalle f Decesare
Jimmy Aquil
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The Preca Sis
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CONTRIBUTORS
Gaby Hollan
Malta: Attard & Co. Food Ltd Tel: 21 237555 Gozo: AbrahamĘźs Supplies Co. Ltd - Tel: 21 563231 facebook.com/attardcofood
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CONTENTS Contact us Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt Design: Kevin Grech Photography: James Bianchi, Rachel Zammit Cutajar Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia afarrugia@mediatoday.com.mt Contact for advertising: Philippa Zammit pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt
Printed at: Print It Printing Services
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GOURMET TODAY WISH LIST These are a few of our favourite things
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TABLE-HOPPING We just love to eat out. These are our favourites this season
13 GOING ASAIN From recipes to restaurants, we are indulging in our Asian side this season 29 RICH, DARK AND STRONG Anybody looking for a good, strong brew of coffee need look no further
Published by:
Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt
APRIL 2017
34 CHOCOLATE COVERED EASTER Get your chocolate on this Easter with these kid-friendly recipes ISSU
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EA TH E IS STE SU R E
SPRING VEGGIES
FIVE WAYS WITH MARROWS
EASTER GOODIESEATS
SUGARY TR TH TO MAKE WI THE KIDS
Cover: Easter cupcakes at Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Golden Sands Photo by James Bianchi
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34 36 FOR THE LOVE OF THE COURGETTE Pippa Mattei shares some of her favourite marrow recipes
46 PICKING GRAPES Our favourite chardonnays 48 THE SEASONAL BROAD BEAN Gaby Holland investigates this seasonal vegetable 55 STEP UP YOUR EASTER SWEET GAME Cookies, cupcakes, crepes and a Saint Honoré 63 EASTER AT HOME Our homecooks share the work to create and fun and easy Easter lunch
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WISH LIST
A job in food media comes with its own hazards, one of which is the huge wish list we put together when checking out different shops, meeting chefs and dining in restaurants. These are some of the items that have topped our list this season. Whether you’re looking to treat yourself or looking for a gift for a foodie, these are certainly worth checking out
RAW FIGOLLI Easter is a time of indulgence. There is no getting away from that. But you can ease the toll it takes on your waistline with these incredible handmade figolli by Theobroma. This little chocolate shop goes vegan and gluten-free using only the best quality raw ingredients. I’ll take two please!
Available from Theobroma – A Raw Cacao Collective. www.facebook.com/theobromacollective
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GOING GLUTEN-FREE Sukrin organic coconut flour This one probably gets most points with those following a gluten-free diet, but did you know it is also rich in fibre, low in carbs and high in protein? It also has a naturally sweet and coconutty flavour so you can cut down on sweeteners in the recipe! Great for that spring-time, weight-loss race!
Available from Holland and Barrett. www.hollandandbarrettmalta.com
OODLES OF NOODLES KENWOOD SPIRALIZER We absolutely love noodles and being able to make a healthier version from veggies makes us really happy. Courgettes, carrots, sweet potato – these all make great additions to salads, stir fries, casseroles and soups
Available from Crosscraft. www.crosscraft.com.mt
GET YOUR EASTER DRINKS ON Easter bunny watering cans Ok, so these are technically watering cans but at Gourmet Today we have repurposed them for our Easter cocktails. These cute little bunnies will make any Easter parties all the more festive!
Available from Flying Tiger, Sliema. www.facebook.com/flyingtigermt
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WISH LIST ORGANIC OLIVE OIL Barbuto organic extra virgin olive oil A couple of years ago buying organic produce in Malta was close to impossible. Today thanks to a local farmer in Sicily we are able to get our hands on, not only organic fruit and veggies but a whole bunch of other stuff – from olive oil to chocolate, cheese and yoghurt and this tasty organic olive oil.
Available from Barbuto. www.barbutonatural.com
ANYTHING SLOW COOKED Le Creuset Round French Oven These hand made, cast iron pots are just perfect for slow cooking, simmering soups and stews and baking everything from side dishes to artisan bread. The tight fitting lid ensures the juices stay right in the pot and prevent drying out. If you look after one of these babies they’ll last you a lifetime.
Available from Gala. www.gala.com.mt
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TABLE-HOPPING As much as we love to cook at Gourmet Today, we also love to eat out. New restaurants are popping up all over the island, some that stay and some that don’t seem to make it. We take it upon ourselves to find out which ones are worth your while… a job we take very seriously. These are our favourite tables this season. PHOTO: NAN YUAN BY JAMES BIANCHI
RHYTHM, BLUES AND A SUPERB DINING EXPERIENCE The restaurant scene in Malta has improved tremendously over the years with a great many superb restaurants opening their doors. However, getting the food right is only half the job; the right atmosphere completes the experience. The smooth sounds of jazz complement impressive dishes by chefs from all over the world to create an experience second to none. SASHA SHUMARA heads down to Spinola Bay to get her rhythm ‘n’ blues on
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here is truly nowhere on the island as unforgettable as the Jazz Cave Restaurant. Dining just never felt so smooth, so funky, so good – and that’s not just the wine and jazz talking. Upon descending the staircase into the Jazz Cave Restaurant, you are immediately entering another time and place. Inside, you could be in Greenwich Village, NYC, and a world away from the Malta we know, but, infact, tucked right in the heart of Spinola Bay in Hotel Juliani. The feel-good vibes inside the Jazz Cave Restaurant are intoxicating. Our cheery waitress welcomed us with baskets of homemade bread and sun-dried tomato tapenade to go around and the live pianist
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gently serenaded us as we settled in. The group of us started the evening with a trio of starters. Beautifully plated (and even more delicious) pan-fried scallops with chorizo, an assortment of cheeses and my newfound love affair: Moroccan prawns. After indulging in those tangy, Moroccan-spiced, grilled prawns served with minted yoghurt, I’m not sure if I ever want to eat prawns any other way again. The versatility of the Jazz Cave Restaurant with that perfect mix of class, style, and freshness, really sets a new standard in the restaurant scene in Malta. Right in the heart of St Julian’s. It’s the perfect spot for date night or after work drinks with a group of friends before
heading off to the clubs or for a business meeting (no awkward silences with the live jazz). For families there’s even a discount on Sundays to enjoy a quality meal in style. Rest assured, the kids will love it. Special events, weddings, staff parties, you name it, the Jazz Cave Restaurant has you covered with a night to remember. Let’s be honest, as a first-timer to a restaurant, you never know what to expect portion-wise. We were pleasantly surprised with our generous mains. They were of high quality, perfectly portioned and very fairly priced. The Jazz Cave Restaurant is neither budget nor fine dining but rather quality dining and a memorable restaurant experience. We wouldn’t go home hungry, like I do too often after a night of fine dining, only to succumb to the nearest pastizzeria for a guilty slice of pizza. My truffle mushroom risotto packed a flavour punch. The others enjoyed their mains like crispy salmon served with this rich and creamy prawn sauce on a bed of roasted vegetables. With a kitchen staffed with Hungarian, Arab and Italian chefs, it’s not surprising these worlds collide, and you can taste it. The kitchen brings touch of flair to the eclectic Mediterranean menu. Before we knew it, it was well past midnight. Time dissipates in a good way inside the Jazz Cave Restaurant. What can I say? We dined, we laughed, we jazzed... and we’ll be back to try their Mediterranean lamb chops.
TABLE-HOPPING
Jazz Cave Restaurant Hotel Juliani Spinola Bay, St Julian’s Web: www.jazzcaverestaurant.com
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INNOVATIVE ASAIN As westerners, we love Asian food because it is so different from what we are used to. It is exotic and packed with unusual flavours. Here at Gourmet Today we love to travel to the ends of the earth to find new recipes, or simply take a drive to our favourite Asian haunts.
PHOTO: NAN YUAN BY JAMES BIANCHI
A TASTE OF THAILAND
While there are many elements that give a country good credentials as a travel destination, here at Gourmet Today, the cuisine pretty much tops the list. Add the incredible food – from markets, to street food as well as fancy restaurants – to the fact that you could so easily pick up a culinary course and Thailand becomes one of our favourite travel spots. These are some recipes some of our team picked up along their own travels
STIR FRIED CHICKEN WITH CASHEW NUTS Rachel Zammit Cutajar Ingredients • 2 – 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped • ½ onion, sliced • 1 mushroom • 4 ears baby corn • 100g cashew nuts • 1 large dried chilli • 1 spring onion, chopped into 1 inch pieces • 50g chicken, chopped into bite sized pieces • 2 tbsp cooking oil • 1 tsp sugar • 2 tsp fish sauce • 3 tsp oyster sauce
Method 1. Heat the oil in the wok to high heat. 2. Add the cashew nuts and dried chillies. 3. Remove from the pan. 4. Add the chicken and garlic and cook for approx 1 min until the chicken turns white. 5. Add the remaining vegetables except the spring onion. 6. Add the sugar, fish sauce and oyster sauce and cook for approx 1 min till the veg has softened. 7. Turn off the heat, add cashew nuts and chilli. 8. Add the spring onions and serve with steamed or sticky rice.
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MASSAMAN CURRY Rachel Zammit Cutajar Ingredients • 4 dried chillis, soaked and chopped • 2 roasted cardamom pods, shell removed • 1 tsp coriander seeds, roasted • 1 tsp cinnamon, roasted • 1 tbsp roasted shallots • 1 tbsp roasted garlic • 1 tbsp roasted lemongrass • 1 tsp galangal • 1 tsp turmeric • 1 tsp tamarind • 1 tbsp peanuts • Lime zest • Garlic • Ginseng • Cumin • Star anise For the curry • 50g chicken • 1 cup coconut milk
You can use ei ther banana or mango, or both if you want to completely go for it!
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• • • • •
1 tbsp massaman curry paste 1 cup boiled potatoes 1 tsp palm sugar 2 tsp fish sauce 1 tbsp tamarind paste
Method 1. Place the spices for the paste into a pestle and mortar and pound until it turns into a powder. 2. Add the chillis and pound until it turns into a powder. 3. Add the remaining ingredients and pound until smooth. 4. Boil the coconut milk until oil appears on the surface. 5. Add the curry paste and stir for 1 min until fragrant. 6. Add the chicken and cook until it turns white. 7. Add the potato, palm sugar, fish sauce and tamarind paste. 8. Boil until thick. 9. Serve with jasmine rice.
STICKY RICE AND MANGO Sasha Shumara Ingredients • 2 cups black rice (use white rice if you want, or half and half) • 1 cup coconut milk • 1/3 cup sugar • Salt • 1 banana • 1 mango • Honey (optional)
Method 1. Soak the rice for at least 5 hours or overnight if you are using black rice. If you are using white you can skip this step. If you are using mixed rice, soak the black rice and then add it to the unsoaked white rice in the next step. 2. Steam the rice in a bamboo basket, or cook it in a rice cooker with 2:1 water ratio, for 15-20 minutes 3. In a wok bring the coconut milk to the boil. 4. Add the sugar and a pinch of salt. 5. Once hot, put half the coconut milk in a bowl and set aside. You will use this later to drizzle on top of the rice. 6. Add sticky rice to the wok and warm it up, constantly stirring till it thickens. 7. Prepare a plate with the sliced fruit, sticky rice, and drizzle with the extra coconut milk on top. 8. Drizzle with honey if using.
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DEEP FRIED BANANAS Rachel Zammit Cutajar Ingredients • • • • • • •
4 bananas 4 tbsp flour 2 tbsp grated coconut 1 cup coconut cream 2 tbsp palm sugar Salt Oil for deep frying
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Method 1. Mix all the ingredients except for the banana. 2. Cut the bananas into bite size pieces. 3. Dredge through the batter and fry until golden. 4. Garnish with sesame seeds and serve with vanilla icecream.
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
PLANTING DEEPER ROOTS
Many people know KuYa as the Asian street food van, having grabbed a bite to eat at many events around the island. The brothers have decided to give their street food concept some deeper roots, adding an establishment in St Julian’s to their concept. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE investigates
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ith spring in full swing, repeatedly walking up and down Ross Street in St Julian’s is not what I signed up for one Tuesday evening. I was convinced the address of KuYa Asian Pub listed on Trip Advisor was incorrect. Ready to call it quits, I walked the same road for the 20th time, except this time I was greeted by a beaming Luke Ferris, part 1 of 2. With an entrance no greater than the width of a single door, it is truly reminiscent of the entrance to Narnia. That is, if Narnia served delicious ramen. I couldn’t help but be blown away by the atmosphere and its laid back, underground vibe. I sat down and was greeted with a warm handshake and a shot of sake. Urging me to
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try it was Gabriel Ferris, part 2 of 2. Eager to delve into the minds of the Ferris brothers, I sat back with a sake in hand and let them tell me their story. In the way most siblings do, they disagreed upon most points… “I think we opened in 2013.” “No, what are you saying? It was 2012!” In spite of this, one thing they were in complete agreement on was their concept and ultimate passion for their food and establishment. With their father’s dream always being for his sons to open up a restaurant, Gabriel and Luke finally jumped on the bandwagon, following his passing. Both brothers had spent a significant amount of time travelling the world, soaking up
different cultures and embracing different kinds of foods. Gabriel worked as a professional chef in countless locations and restaurants all over the world, Malta included, but he was getting restless. The idea behind KuYa came to fruition one fine evening, following a couple of drinks and a lot of laughs. Initially, the brothers thought it would be a great idea to travel around Malta, cooking Gabriel’s specialty, Asian food (with his signature twist), out of a bus. Once the alcohol haze had cleared however, they decided that it wasn’t the most feasible, or practical of ideas. Three short months after that conversation, the Ferris brothers opened the well-loved KuYa van, together with Gabriel’s wife Diane. Their trial run was the St. Julian’s festa in 2013 (or 2012, no-one can be certain) and to their amazement, not one single noodle or strip of crispy beef remained after just two hours. The food was wholesome, indulgent and inexplicably delicious. It was also fast and easy; two factors most of us fast-paced, on-the-go,
TABLE-HOPPING impatient folk value so highly. Their main inspiration was Asian cuisine, with Gabriel describing the food as 90% Japaneseinspired and 10% of his personal twist. That 10% is absolutely crucial, as it is what gives KuYa its signature taste and charm. A full year of back-breaking work later and the brothers were yearning for more. They began looking for spots that fit the concept of KuYa perfectly. After weeks of searching, they finally found KuYa’s home. Ross Street, St. Julians, a stone’s throw from Portomaso. Almost impossible to find if you don’t know exactly what you’re looking for, the restaurant is a hidden gem. Its evasiveness is part of its charm, walking down the stairs into the restaurant, I guarantee it will become your new favourite hangout. With incredible support and backing, Gabriel and Luke successfully opened KuYa in St. Julian’s just three weeks later and not a single detail was missed, whilst a family friend, Jean Paul Cachia, took over the running of the van. Without any grand openings, the brothers were sure that KuYa’s food would speak for itself and boy were they right. The restaurant is full to the brim on almost any given night and attracts people from all walks of life, including visitors from the other side of the world, surgeons, university students, their grandparents; all eager to ‘eat like an Asian’. It’s a challenge to pinpoint exactly what patrons love most about KuYa, so we took it upon ourselves to ask around, right there and then. The general consensus was that the combination of KuYa’s overall atmosphere and food is simply unparalleled. And just in case you’re wondering if this statement only holds water for Maltese patrons, you might be surprised to find that even born-andbred Japanese customers can’t stay away. With their ever-changing eclectic menu, featuring all-time favourites such as Bang Bang chicken and yellow curry, you really can’t go wrong. Scrawled on a chalkboard in colourful chalk, there’s something for everyone, even the pickiest of eaters. Walking out a few hours later, I couldn’t help but think there truly is something magical about the gem that is KuYa. Being the first and only establishment of its kind on the island, the Ferris brothers have worked out the ultimate formula and show no signs of stopping. With friendly, down to earth staff, a keen eye for detail and incredibly strong work ethic, the Ferris brothers and KuYa itself is destined for greatness. With a couple of projects in the pipeline, all I can tell you is it’s time to get excited about the opening of a second KuYa establishment. Finger’s crossed it will be in a town near you.
KuYa Asian Pub Ross Street, St. Julian’s Tel: 2713 6517 KuYa-Asian-Pub
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
CHANGING MENUS AT A FAVOURITE SPOT
At a time when restaurants come and go, Nan Yuan, on the Valletta Waterfront, has become an icon, serving quality Chinese food for pretty close to 15 years. While many Chinese restaurants serve the same dishes year in, year out, the secret to Nan Yuan’s success is that the keep up with the times, changing to menu to accommodate the seasons as well as dining trends. NICOLA COLLINS checks it out
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alletta Waterfront is home to several beautifully restored 18th century warehouses built during the Baroque period. Vault 14 houses the family run Nan Yuan Cantonese restaurant, where I pay a visit on a gloriously sunny March lunchtime. With seating for up to140 inside and out, wherever you choose to be seated you will not be disappointed. Outside boasts sheltered seating with views of the wharf and a selection of moored yachts, while inside you will find a mixture of the warehouse architecture combined with authentic Cantonese décor. Browsing the menu, the prices are extremely reasonable and takeaway food offers a further 10% discount. With a wide choice of dishes including vegetarian and gluten-free options, the selection seems endless. A quick call to the restaurant prior to booking will see that the chefs will do their best to meet any specific requirements you may have. Dishes vary in heat and I’m pleased to find a rather handy rating is provided under each dish. While I continue to browse, I am treated to a recommended glass of sauvignon blanc. 35° South is a Chilean wine, a combination of tropical fruit flavours with a zesty taste, with hints of grapefruit, lime and cooked gooseberries. Nan Yuan is already preparing for summer, with a new menu on the way. This will include even more meals to choose from including more gluten-free options, vegetarian and a speciality dish appearing each season. Although the restaurant is closed on
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a Monday, you can dine there for lunch 12.00-15.00 and dinner 19.00 – 23.00 (when the last order is taken) for the remainder of the week. To eat, I start with a chicken and sweetcorn soup and can’t resist also trying out the delicious, homemade minced pork dumplings. To follow, a selection of mains, tofu in oyster sauce, pork in plum sauce, chicken chow mein and duck in orange. Each dish is cooked to perfection and stunningly presented. To finish, after what can only be described as a feast, I decide on a oolong tea, a gentle tea to help settle my stomach, ideal after such delicious dishes. Nan Yuan serves a variety of authentic teas to accompany their food, Chinese green tea, lychee tea, jasmine tea, chrysanthemum tea or ginseng tea are
all available. The restaurant is immaculately clean, service is superb, (made even better by that ‘family-run’ touch) and the food is out of this world. It is not in the slightest bit surprising that the Nan Yuan boasts several awards gained over the years for being a Quality Assured Restaurant. 2017 has already seen them awarded with the WRMC (www. winesandrestaurantsofmalta.com) and Silver Spoon Award – The Ultimate Award for Consistently Outstanding Cuisine Quality, Preparation and Presentation. Full from the delightful food and drink, relaxed from the Nan Yuan’s ambience and picturesque surroundings, I head for home, happy in the knowledge that this is a restaurant I will be visiting again very soon.
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Nan Yuan Cantonese Restaurant Vault 14, Valletta Waterfront, Floriana Tel: 2122 5310 Web: www.nanyuanmalta.com Email: nanyuan@maltanet.net Nan-Yuan-Valletta-Waterfront
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
THE RICKSHAW LAUNCHES EXCITING NEW MENU Want to try something new? Innovative Asian dishes are few and far between, which is what makes the launch of the new menu so much more exciting. From frog porridge to century eggs, this is one that is going to tickle your taste buds.
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he Rickshaw restaurant, within the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa in Attard, recently unveiled its newly-updated menu. Featuring a variety of innovative dishes from across the Far East, as well as wellloved Oriental favourites, its highlights include Singapore-style frog porridge, silken tofu with creamed century egg, and Nihari slow-cooked mutton in a garam-masala mix. Speaking about these new additions, the Corinthia Palace’s executive chef Stefan Hogan said, “The Rickshaw is a popular restaurant on the local gastronomy scene and some patrons have been dining here for decades. Of course we are immensely proud of that and are eager to present the dishes that they have enjoyed for years in a manner that is familiar; but we are also enthusiastic to put forward exciting
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new options that promise a completely new experience. I believe this menu provides that important balance.” Each new dish was developed in collaboration with Andy Kwok, the renowned owner of the Knightsbridgebased Asian brand and restaurant chain Good Earth, which has been operational in the UK for over 25 years. The selection promises to be truthful to the authentic flavours associated with the Rickshaw’s chosen cuisines, namely Chinese, Philippine, Malaysian, Indonesian, Japanese, Thai and Korean. Other new flavourful combinations include the octopus salad served with kimchee, asparagus, celery, and a hot and sour sauce, the aromatic beef stew simmered with papaya, coriander, chilli and ginger, and topped with crisp-fried onions, and the wok-fried golden tofu
with leek, garlic and coriander. They all complement existing favourites including the Rickshaw starter platter, the crisp-fried pork nuggets in a sweet and sour glaze with pineapple and pomegranate seeds, and the vegan sprouting broccoli with chilli, garlic and shitake mushrooms. “While it’s nice to be able to return to a dish you know and love, it’s also exciting to be able to try something completely new in an environment you trust,” Stefan continues. “The Rickshaw provides, by taking its diners on a veritable tour of genuine dishes from this beguiling region. Some of them may sound rather unusual, but they are well-worth a try… I promise!” he adds with a smile. The Rickshaw is open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday.
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The Rickshaw Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa De Paule Avenue, Balzan Tel: 25442190
RickshawRestaurant
Award Winning Restaurant
For reservations please call: 2346 6666 / 2346 2857 / 7944 3281 Fortina Spa Resort, TignĂŠ Seafront, SLIEMA
Can Thai offers an extensive menu of Chinese and Thai dishes. Dishes are prepared by a team of Oriental Chefs. Banquet and Sunday Buffet Menus available. Can Thai is located in the Fortina’s Tropical Garden, with an option of outside dining.
www.canthairestaurant.com - info@canthairestaurant.com
DISCOVER
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FROM BEANS TO BREW A fresh cup of coffee is what makes the world go around. Or at least it’s what wakes the movers and shakers as well as the workers up in the morning so that they can keep the world spinning. Adam Craig and Clayton Xuereb of the new coffee bar, Lot Sixty One, talk to RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR about what makes a really good cup of coffee
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offee beans are very much like grapes in that the fruit of both trees are picked and pressed (or ground) to create drinks that are arguably the most popular in every corner of the world – coffee and wine. Similarly to wine, the area in which the bean is grown, the process by which is it is picked and then processed, hugely impacts the quality of the coffee. Where wine and coffee are not similar at all is in their connoisseurs, particularly in Malta. While there is a great thirst for knowledge in the wine industry with many a wine-lover interested in a particular chateaux and or a particular vintage, most people will settle for any old espresso placed in front of them. All this is about to change. I must confess that I myself am not a coffee lover but the smell of roasting beans coming from the roastery smells of dark, rich, early mornings. Clayton Xuereb, owner of Crème Café in Naxxar, introduces me to his partner Adam Craig who quickly dismisses us and turns back to what he is doing. He is in the middle of a roast and is delicately balancing the temperature in the drum to make sure the bean is released at the right moment. A minute too soon and the aromas and the flavours are not developed enough. A moment too late and the roast becomes darker, as carbon starts to pop out of the beans and they begin to take on the flavour of the drum, losing the idiosyncrasies of the bean. As soon as the roast is complete, Adam quickly apologises and begins to show me around. He makes it clear from the very beginning that a good quality coffee starts with a good quality bean and, much like with any other food product, cooking it (roasting in this case) only enhances its natural flavours. This is why both Adam and Clayton are so passionate about where their beans come from. Sourcing beans direct from the farmers, they buy beans from Brazil, Guatemala, Ethiopia and Kenya. Their roasted coffee beans – available for customers to take home and brew themselves – come labelled, giving first credit to the farmer, whilst second credit goes to its process (whether it is naturally dried, giving it a sweeter taste with more
body, or washed, creating a bean that is cleaner and crisper), and final credit goes to the varietal of the bean – much as you would see on a wine label. Like everything else, coffee is a seasonal product and will produce the best harvest at certain times of year. Different longitudes and latitudes mean that the harvest season is different for different countries, meaning that right now you are likely to find more central American coffees at their new coffee bar, Lot 61 in Valletta, while in around five months there will be a tendency towards African beans. Adam, originally from Sydney, Australia, has been living in Amsterdam for the last six years, having set up Lot Sixty One in that vibrant city. On a holiday in Malta he found the coffee culture here to be somewhat lacking and on further research found that Clayton had started a specialty coffee diploma with the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe in Milan but never completed it. He was quick to get in touch and the two soon embarked on what started as the completion of Clayton’s diploma and quickly developed into a new business venture. Adam and Clayton only buy specialty coffee grade Arabica beans, carefully selecting the farms, preferably at higher altitudes. By selecting higher altitude farms they
can be sure that the beans that are ground into your cup of coffee contain the most flavour and are typically free from pesticides. Lot Sixty One, close to the old market in Valletta is a showcase of what they are doing, however that is not the sole purpose of their venture. What they are more interested in doing is spreading the specialty coffee culture and sharing their knowledge. A chef who is really passionate about the food they serve faces the hurdle of getting their excitement through to the customer as they never really get to talk to the customers themselves. A barista on the other hand can create a great cup of coffee with passion and flair and be able to talk to their customer about it, giving them an edge on sharing their passion. Adam and Clayton hope to teach baristas across the island their skills and thus spread the glory of a freshly roasted and ground bean, whilst also supplying cafés with quality coffee. Their plans for the future include coffee tastings at their roastery in Naxxar, where they plan to pair different coffees with local craft beers and chocolate. Their aim is not let this get too geeky and put some light-hearted fun into an afternoon of appreciation of food. They are currently collaborating with a liquor company to produce a coffee
flavoured liquor and there has even been talk of them teaming up with a microbrewery to produce a coffee-flavoured beer. There are good things to come from these two. Perhaps now is the time for me to really get into the ins and outs of coffee.
WHAT’S IN A BEAN Coffee beans, much like grapes used to make wine, have a different flavour profile depending on where in the world they are grown. Altitude, terroir and climate contribute to the final taste profile. These are what the coffee beans of the world have to offer. BRAZILIAN BEANS Chocolate and nuts are the primary flavours that come through, making this the most popular coffee worldwide. CENTRAL AMERICAN BEANS Grown at really high altitudes, the flavours that come through in these beans are of dark berries, cherries and dark chocolate AFRICAN BEANS This is where coffee originated with some prized coffee coming from these regions. Flavours are mostly citrus with hints of orange and tangerine INDONESIAN BEANS Grown at lower altitudes, the flavours of these beans tend to be more earthy and steamy
Lot Sixty One 30, Old Theatre Street, Valletta Tel: 7984 1561 Web: www.lotsixtyonecoffee.com
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LotSixtyOneCoffeeRoastersMalta
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STEJK SANGWICC WITH COFFEE BARBECUE SAUCE Sean Gravina Serves 4 Ingredients • 2 ribeye steaks • 2 tbsp onion compote • 1 beef tomato • 2 small gherkins • Watercress • Handful applewood cheddar, shredded • Handufl sweet cheddar • 2 ftiras Garlic, mustard butter • 2 cloves garlic • Large knob butter • 2 tsp Dijon mustard • Salt and pepper Coffee barbecue sauce • ½ cups strong-brewed coffee • 1 cup ketchup • ¾ cups firmly-packed brown sugar • ½ cups apple cider vinegar • 2 shallots, finely chopped • ½ cup sweet chili sauce • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 2 tbsp ground cumin • 2 tbsp chili powder • 1 tsp Sriracha or Tabasco sauce
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Method 1. To make the coffee barbecue sauce, stir all ingredients into a medium sauce pan. 2. Bring to simmer then reduce the heat to low until flavours meld (approx. 40 mins) stirring occasionally. 3. Cool to room temperature and serve. (Will keep for about 2 weeks or more in the refrigerator.) 4. Make the mustard and garlic butter melt the butter into a saucepan and lightly sauté the garlic. 5. Add the mustard and season with salt and pepper. Allow to cool until set. 6. To cook the steaks, heat a grill and season the meat and smear with a little oil. 7. Cook the meat to your desired doneness, depending on the thickness. I cook mine to a medium rare and allow it to rest for about 5 mins. 8. Butter the bread and toast on the griddle pan. 9. Once toasted add the compote and place the tomato and watercress, then place the meat, sliced gherkins and BBQ sauce. 10. Finally add some shredded cheese and place in a preheated oven until the cheese is melted. 11. Spoon over some BBQ sauce and place the top of the ftira onto the sandwich. 12. Cut in half and serve warm.
Freshly roasted coffee beans from all over the world at Kafe Borg KAFE BORG is a household name when it comes to freshly roasted coffee. This fourth generation family-run business has proved
their passion for coffee runs deep. With fresh beans hailing from many coffee producing countries such as Guatamala, Nicaragua, Kenya and Costa Rica among others, customers can choose straight beans or a blend of their choice, with many returning customers becoming accustomed to their own signature blend. Coffee can be purchased in beans or ground at the shop. Kafe Borg is not just a coffee specialist and sells a vast range of cake ingredients, decorations and ancillary items,
including sugar paste, cake dummies, cake boards, icing sugar, almonds, cake candles and flavourings. Kafe Borg is open from Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 4pm and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. Kafe Borg Tal-Balal Road, San Gwann. Tel: 21371626 Web: www.kafeborg.com kafeborg
Discover the taste of original coffee
Miscela D'oro
Since 1997 Multivend Services has been providing the local industry with professional coffee machines in all Maltese Islands. One can enjoy our Miscela D’Oro coffee at the famous Caffe Cordina in Valetta.
Naggar Street Mosta MST1761 Tel: 2147 0153 Fax: 2147 0154 Web: www.multivendservices.com Email: info@multivendservices.com Miscela D’Oro: www.misceladoro.com
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EASTER TREATS s d i k r u o y h ake wit
to m
Easter is a great time for the kids to get out and enjoy the sunshine looking for chocolate eggs in the garden. But why not get them involved in the sort of food prep they really enjoy. All kids love to mix and get messy and (almost) all kids love chocolate. Get in the kitchen with your little ones and make these sweets using their favourite chocolate eggs. They will have as much fun making them as they will be eating them
CHOCOLATE EGG ROCKY ROAD Ingredients • • • • • • • • •
150g salted butter 250g dark chocolate 150g milk chocolate 4 tbsp Golden Syrup 150g mini eggs (pick your favourite brand or a mixture) 150g mini marshmallows 150g Digestive biscuits, crushed into bits but not crumbs 150g white chocolate 8 Crème Eggs, cut in half
Method 1. Melt the butter in a stainless steel bowl placed on top of a small saucepan of barely simmering water. Be careful not to let the bowl touch the simmering water. 2. When the butter starts to melt, add the dark and milk chocolate and the Golden Syrup. 3. Once everything is melted, stir well to make sure everything is incorporated and the mixture is smooth and shiny. 4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for approx. 10 mins. 5. Add the crushed Digestives, marshmallows and mini eggs and mix well. 6. Line a baking dish baking paper and pour in the chocolate mixture pushing the mixture into the corners. 7. Melt the white chocolate in a clean, stainless steel bowl over a pot of simmering water. Keep the temperature low, as white chocolate tends to seize more than the darker kinds. 8. Pour the white chocolate over the top and place the halved Crème Eggs into the mixture. 9. Allow to set for a couple of hours in the fridge. 10. Remove from the fridge and cut into squares using a sharp knife. Clean the knife every time you use it to make sure the sides remain clean.
EASTER MILK CHOCOLATE BARK Ingredients • • • • • •
250g milk chocolate 80g white chocolate 3 Crème Eggs, unwrapped and halved 2 Caramel Eggs, unwrapped and halved 1 Flake Handful Smarties
Method 1. Melt the chocolate in a stainless steel bowl over a small saucepan of simmering water, making sure the water does not touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir well until everything is melted and the chocolate is smooth and shiny. 2. Pour the melted chocolate onto a piece of baking paper on a large, clean, chopping board. 3. Melt the white chocolate in a clean bowl in the same way as you did the milk chocolate. 4. Pour in blobs over the milk chocolate and, with a toothpick, swirl the white chocolate into the milk chocolate. 5. Push the halved eggs into the melted chocolate, some open-side up and some open-side down. 6. Break up the flake over the melted chocolate, allowing bits to fall over the melted chocolate. Place the bits of flake on the melted chocolate and push down. 7. Add the Smarties. 8. Allow the chocolate to harden in the fridge for a couple of hours. 9. Remove from the fridge and break into bits of bark.
FOR MORE GROWN UP FLAVOURS Use darker chocolate and top with ingredients like dried raspberries or any other dried fruit, nuts, coconut flakes, sea salt, coffee beans or even bacon bits
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PIPPA MATTEI
36 www.gourmettoday.recipes PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
IN PRAISE OF QARABAGHLI Of all the wonderful vegetables we grow in Malta, the courgette reigns supreme. Not only is it plentiful and delicious, we also have so many ways of preparing it. Here are some of the ways I use them.
Get more of Pippa’s recipes in her book Pippa’s Festa.
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PIPPA MATTEI QARABAGHLI FRITTERS When I was young, my grandfather’s cooks Sunta and Manani, made the most amazing courgette fritters. Again, this is a really simple recipe that allows the delicate flavours of the marrows to really shine. Serves 4 Ingredients • 6 round courgettes boiled till tender, drained, mashed • 2 eggs, separated • 1 clove garlic, crushed • Salt and pepper • Oil for frying • Lemon, to serve
Method 1. In one bowl mash the cooked courgettes with a fork and set aside. 2. In another bowl, beat the egg whites until fluffy and then add these to the beaten egg yolks. 3. Continue to beat until you have a light foamy batter. 4. Add salt and pepper and the crushed garlic clove. 5. Mix into this your mashed courgettes and combine well. 6. Heat the cooking oil in a frying pan, when sizzling, add tablespoons of the vegetable and egg mixture and fry till golden. 7. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
HOT COURGETTE SALAD This is a really simple dish of boiled marrows. It can be served as a side dish with just about anything or as a light supper with juicy summer tomatoes and Maltese bread. Ingredients • 4 round, green marrows • Handful mint leaves • Extra virgin olive oil • Balsamic vinegar • Salt and pepper
Method 1. Top and tail the marrows and then plunge them into boiling water and boil till tender. 2. Discard water and then put courgettes into the serving bowl, sprinkle liberally with your best olive oil, some vinegar, salt and pepper. 3. Dress with some freshly chopped mint leaves, and serve with juicy Maltese tomatoes, and fresh Maltese bread.
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PIPPA MATTEI SPAGHETTI WITH COURGETTES AND PRAWNS Serves 6 Ingredients • 600g spaghetti • 1kg red Mediterranean prawns • 4 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and chopped • 500g small round courgettes, diced • 6 tbsp best olive oil • 12 baby vine tomatoes, halved • 1 small chilli, chopped • 1 lemon, zest only • 2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce • Handful fresh parsley, chopped • 2 tbsp brandy • 50g butter Method 1. Peel prawns, set aside and put the heads and skins into medium pot, add the brandy, butter, and 2 cups water. 2. Put on fire and cook till colour has gone from prawn shells to the liquid. 3. Sieve and discard shell pressing down with a wooden spoon. Set liquid aside. 4. In a medium frying pan, heat the oil and 2 tbsp butter then add chopped garlic and fry for a few mins. 5. Add onion and cook till transparent. 6. Add the chilli, courgettes and tomatoes and cook for a few mins till courgettes are tender, and all is amalgamated. 7. Add the peeled prawns, parsley, salt and pepper and the sweet chilli sauce. 8. Add the liquid from the prawn shells just enough to have a sauce the consistency of cream and cook for another few mins. 9. Just before serving, add finely grated lemon zest. 10. Cook spaghetti in salted boiling water till tender and toss into the pan with the sauce. Mix well and serve immediately.
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PIPPA MATTEI QARABAGHLI MIMLI The courgettes stuffed with meats etc. make a wonderful all in one dish, when placed on a bed of best Maltese potatoes and sliced onions. Serves 4 Ingredients • 4 large courgettes (round or long) • 500g minced pork and beef, mixed • 2 rashers bacon, chopped • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 tbsp kunserva • 2 eggs, beaten • 2 tbsp Parmesan, grated • Salt and pepper • 1 tbsp soy sauce or Worcestershire sauce • Parsley, finely chopped • Some olive oil • 12 potatoes • 4 onions • 1 tbsp fennel seeds (optional) • Some semolina or fine breadcrumbs for topping (optional) Method 1. Top and tail the courgettes. 2. Place in salted boiling water and cook till tender. Drain and cool.
3.
Cut each marrow in half lengthwise and scoop out the white flesh putting some aside for the filling. 4. To make the filling, combine in a bowl, the prepared meats, onions, tomato puree, eggs, grated cheese, salt and pepper, parsley and seasoning of your choice. 5. To this add 4 tbsp of the scooped out marrow flesh. 6. Mix all together and fill the prepared courgettes and set aside. 7. Peel and thickly slice the potatoes and onions. 8. Arrange the sliced potatoes at the bottom of a 5cm deep roasting pan and place the sliced onions over the top of these. 9. Drizzle some oil over the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with the fennel seeds if using, then carefully place the stuffed marrows on top, meat filling upwards. 10. Sprinkle these with semolina or breadcrumbs (optional) and bake all in a hot oven 220°C for at least an hour until the marrows and meat are cooked through and the potatoes are turning dark brown. (You may want to take the marrows out and continue cooking the potatoes and onions till browned).
VEGGIE OPTION
Make this a vegetarian dish by replacing the meat with 400g ricotta and 100g Parmesan
ZALZA PIKKANTI This sweet and sour tomato sauce can be served as an accompaniment to fish or meat dishes or served as a light supper with fried eggs. Ingredients • 2 marrows, sliced • Prepared tomato sauce (homemade when the tomatoes are good) • 2 tbsp sugar • 2 tbsp vinegar • 2 tbsp capers Method 1. Fry the marrow slices in oil until golden brown, turning over once. 2. Warm tomato sauce in a medium-sized pan. 3. Add the sugar, vinegar and capers. 4. Allow to simmer for a few minutes then take off heat and allow to cool. Add the fried courgettes and mix together. 5. Serve with fish, or with fresh Maltese bread and fried eggs.
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PIPPA MATTEI STUFFED COURGETTE FLOWERS Ingredients • 12 fresh whole courgette flowers, stamens carefully pulled out Filling • 275g ricotta • Pinch nutmeg, freshly grated • Parsley, chopped • 1 egg, beaten • 4 tbsp Parmesan, freshly grated • 6 anchovy fillets, halved (optional) • Salt and pepper • Oil for frying Batter • 2 eggs, • 55g plain flour • 4 tbsp cold water Method 1. Prepare the filling by mixing together the ricotta, nutmeg, parsley, beaten egg, Parmesan and some salt and pepper. Set aside. 2. Prepare your batter by beating the eggs lightly in a bowl, adding the flour, stirring well and gradually adding the water to make a smooth consistency. Set aside 3. Put spoonfuls of the filling in each flower adding the anchovy half, if using, and gently fold over. 4. Heat the oil till very hot, then carefully coat the filled flowers with the prepared batter allowing any excess to drop off. 5. Place in the hot oil, and fry till golden. 6. Take out with a slotted spoon and place onto kitchen paper. 7. Serve hot and crispy with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. 8. Finally, the courgette flowers combined with slices of small courgettes, make the most amazing risotto.
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PICKING GRAPES
Much like a person, every wine variety has its own characteristics. Here we profile one grape variety and even pick some of our favourites.
C
y a n n ha rd o T
he chardonnay grape is the Marmite of the wine world. You either love it or you hate it. Opinions on this grape tend to be extreme with some wine lovers refusing anything made with chardonnay to others who will only drink it if it is a chardonnay. This is a fairly simplistic rule when it comes to chardonnay, particularly because the chardonnay grape offers wines of three different styles. Chardonnay is the most widely planted white grape in the world with vineyards in hot sunny regions such as Spain and California as well as the cooler regions of Burgundy (France) and New Zealand, though the higher rated chardonnays will usually come from cooler climates. Chardonnays that are allowed to rest
TASTE PROFILE
Oaked chardonnays tend to be more fullbodied with a richer profile of lush tropical fruit, pineapple, butterscotch and vanilla to a lighter profile of poached pear, lemon curd and baked apple. Unoaked chardonnays tend to be lighter than their oaked counterparts. Wines range in taste from a fruitier profile of yellow apple, fresh pineapple and mango to a leaner, more floral profile of white flowers, green apples, pear and citrus.
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in oak barrels tend to be bolder and more fullbodied. The oak introduces more oxygen to the wine which results in more baked apple and hazelnut flavours. Going through an additional process called Malolactic fermentation, the wine is generally richer, with an oily, butterlike texture. Expect chardonnays like this from the sunnier spots, like Australia and California. The citrusy, unoaked style of chardonnay was made popular by the French region of Chablis. This tends to be a lighter white wine with floral notes and fruits. This style is a more varietalpure as it doesn’t rely on additional flavours from the oak barrels. Less oxygen getting into the wine (as they fermented in stainless steel rather than oak) preserve the freshness and acidity of the wine.
FOOD PAIRING
Full-bodied, oak-aged chardonnays require a dish with an element of richness. Dishes like eggs Benedict, steak bĂŠarnaise, cheddar cheese or roasted guinea fowl. One of our favourite pairings would be a top-end New Zealand chardonnay with foie gras. Unoaked chardonnays are prefect with light and delicate food such as raw or lightly cooked shellfish or steamed or grilled fish, pasta or risottos with spring vegetables. One of our favourite pairings would be a Chablis with oysters.
ONE FOR THE CELLAR Though we love to quaff our wine, there are some that deserve to be treated better. This is one you should have in your cellars.
DOMAINE LEFLAIVE CHEVALIERMONTRACHET GRAND CRU
Country of origin: Cotes de Beaune, France Grape varieties: Chardonnay The canary-yellow colour makes this wine look as if it has just been bottled. The impact of the aroma is sulfurous due to all the minerality that is so intense it is almost painful to your nostrils. With breathing the bouquet evolves into scents of citron, Sicilian citrus fruit and white melon. It is amazing how drinkable this is thanks to the structural balance of the mouthfeel which is savoury and fresh, rich in texture and with an irrepressible stimulation.
TOP CHARDONNAYS CHABLIS LAROCHE Country of origin: Burgundy, France Grape Varieties: Chardonnay Pale gold colour. Directly extracted from the fruit and not from the oak, the flavour lees a powerful fruit expression and a rich aromatic complexity, typical of the Laroche style. Intense nose with hints of ripe white fruit and flowers. The palate accomodates aromatic richness and freshness. Lingering fruity finish.
This wine is imported and distributed by P. Cutajar Co. Ltd. www.pcutajar.com.mt
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In Season
FOR THE LOVE OF THE FAVA BEAN By Gaby Holland
T
he broad bean or fava bean (ful in Maltese) is a member of the legume family and a species of flowering plant in the vetch and pea family Fabaceae. Fava beans have been found in the earliest human settlements and probably originated in the Near East before spreading to Europe. Broad beans are pretty hardy and adaptable. They grow in most soils and climates. They’re a great source of protein, fibre and carbohydrates, as well as vitamins A, B1 and B2. Broad beans are also rich in both folate and
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B vitamins, which are needed for nerve and blood cell development, cognitive function and energy. The fruit is a broad, leathery, green pod around 5-10cms long with a dense, downy interior. The pod is generally discarded (although may be eaten when cooked) and the beans are removed from their pods much like you would when shelling peas) by running a finger up the seam of the pod, splitting it open and removing the beans. There are about four to five beans per pod. Broad beans make their appearance
PHOTOGRAPHY: GABY HOLLAND
in March up until May or June. It is best to buy broad beans as fresh as possible, when their pods are firm and crisp. Avoid any that feel soft, with pockets of air inside. At the beginning of the season the new beans are small, tender and sweet tasting making them perfect for eating raw in salads without the need to pop them out of their second skin. The older beans tend to become tougher and taste more like dried pulses. Once cooked however they are still as delicious. You would need to remove them from their second skin (which is a chore but well worth the extra effort). Broad beans may be used in many ways, kusksu being one of my favourite dishes. Also delicious are mashed freshly boiled broad beans with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and a hint of garlic and piled onto toasted Maltese bread for an easy summery starter. They are also good for flavouring meat stews or lamb dishes. Lemon, mint, crispy bacon, anchovies and pecorino all make perfect companions.
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In Portugal and Spain a Christmas cake, called bolo rei in Portuguese and roscón de reyes in Spanish (King’s cake), is baked with a single fava bean inside. Whoever eats the slice containing it, is supposed to buy next year’s cake. A similar tradition exists in France, where the fève (originally a dried bean, but often now a small china or metal trinket) is placed in the galette des rois; the person who finds it in their slice becomes the king or queen of the meal, and is often expected to serve the other guests with drinks. European folklore also claims that planting beans on
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• •
Fun Fact s
Good Friday or during the night brings good luck. In ancient Greece and Rome, beans were used in voting; a white bean was used to cast a yes vote, and a black bean for no. Fava beans have been found in the tombs of Egyptian rulers. The fava bean was very popular in the ancient Greece. However, Greek philosopher Pythagoras believed that fava bean contains souls of dead people. He, and all of his followers, excluded fava bean from their diet.
BROAD BEAN SALAD WITH POTATOES AND COURGETTES Serves 4 Ingredients • 140g broad beans, shelled • 4 young (small and narrow courgettes) • 4 new potatoes • 1 spring onion, finely chopped • Handful mint • Handful parsley, chopped • 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• • • • •
1 lemon, juice and zest Salt and pepper 1 tsp sugar 100g ricotta, crumbled ½ cup fresh peas
2. 3. 4. 5.
Method 1. Boil the potatoes until tender. Peel and chop into bite size pieces.
6. 7.
Cut courgettes into thin discs. Prepare the dressing by whisking the olive oil, lemon juice, sugar, mustard and salt and pepper. Mix the beans with the potatoes, courgettes and fresh peas. Add the chopped spring onion and the herbs. Place in a salad bowl and add the dressing and the ricotta. Toss well and serve.
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EASY WEEKNIGHT MEALS Running a number of restaurants between them and raising young families at the same time, Roberta and Ramona Preca know what it’s like to get home and not have the time to prepare lavish meals. Being in the food industry however, they will not settle for anything store-bought. They have a list of recipes that are easy to prepare and can be made in just a few minutes so that even on the busiest nights we can whip up something fresh and delicious. Whether you’re having friends over, feeding a family or just yourself, these recipes are sure to entice you!
Pan-fried sea bass on a bed of pearl barley Ingredients • 2 fillets of sea bass • 1 cup flour • Salt and pepper • 1 cup pearl barley • ¼ cups extra virgin oil • 3 tbsp fresh basil, chopped • 1 clove garlic, minced • Salt and pepper • 2 medium tomatoes, diced • 1 cucumber, cut in half lengthwise, then sliced into strips • 1 cup dried fruit and nuts • 4 spring onions, thinly sliced
Method 1. Cook the pearl barely by simmering in salted water for 25 mins. Drain and set aside. 2. Add the tomatoes, chopped fruit and nuts, cucumber and spring onions to the barley. 3. Season with salt, pepper and olive oil and toss to coat. Set aside until ready to serve. 4. Season the flour with salt and pepper. 5. Dust the fillets of sea-bass in flour and pan fry until golden on both sides. 6. Serve the sea bass fillets on a bed of barley salad.
This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 11 March, 2017.
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Barbecue chicken strips Ingredients • 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts • 1 egg, beaten • 2 cups breadcrumbs • 2 cups flour • 1 tsp garlic powder • Salt and pepper • ¼ tsp chilli powder • ¼ tsp curry powder • ¼ tsp paprika • ¼ tsp chicken bouillon powder • ½ cup barbecue sauce Method 1. Cut chicken breasts into thin strips, about one inch wide. Longer sections can be cut in half to have uniform pieces. 2. Mix into the barbecue sauce allow to marinate for at least 15 mins to a few hours.
3. 4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
Mix the breadcrumbs with the dried spices and season well. Gently take the chicken strips and dust them in flour. Dip chicken pieces into the beaten egg mixture, then dredge in crumb mixture. Preheat a frier or a deep pan with frying oil until the oil reaches 180°C. If you don’t have a thermometer, the oil is ready when a small piece of bread starts to bubble immediately after being dropped in. Fry the chicken strips in small batches until lightly browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil. Dip into your favourite sauce or eat them as they are.
This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 25 March, 2017.
Peanut butter and chocolate bites
Ingredients • 3 cups oats • ¾ cup peanut butter • ½ cup brown sugar • ½ tsp cinnamon • 1 cup chocolate chips • Pinch salt • 1 tsp vanilla essence • 1 cup butter Method 1. Line a 8-inch-by-8-inch baking dish with parchment paper, and set aside. 2. In a medium saucepan, combine the butter, brown sugar and vanilla extract. 3. Heat over low-heat, until the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved.
4. 5. 6.
Add the oats, cinnamon and kosher salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for 4 to 5 mins. Pour half of the oat mixture into the prepared baking dish. 7. Spread out the mixture evenly, pressing down. 8. In a small microwave-safe bowl, combine the chocolate chips and the peanut butter. Heat on high in the microwave, in increments of 40 seconds, stirring in between each increment, until melted and fully combined. 9. Pour ¾ of the chocolate mixture into the pan over the pressed oats, reserving about ¼ cup for drizzling. 10. Top with the remaining oats and drizzle with the remaining ¼ cup chocolate mixture. 11. Refrigerate for 4 hours, or until set. This recipe first appeared on Gourmet Today TV, aired on TVM on 25 March, 2017.
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EASTER make it special! Enjoy a traditional buffet lunch at Flavours, your favourite dish from our a la carte menu at Agliolio or home-made themed treats at Mokka this Easter weekend.
For reservations kindly contact us at restaurants.goldensands@radissonblu.com or on 23561000
GETTING READY FOR EASTER Easter weekend is just around the corner and with it comes the bright colours and indulgent sweets we have come to associate the holiday with. Jimmy Aquilina, chef patissiere at Radisson Blu Resort and Spa, Golden Sands has some ideas to make this Easter extra special. If you are avoiding gluten or lactose, fear not, you need not be left out of the Easter madness with some of these recipes
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI
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GLUTEN-FREE EASTER ALMOND BISCUITS Ingredients • 125 gluten-free flour • 125g ground almonds • 125g sugar • 125g butter unsalted • 1 egg • 5g baking powder • 1 lemon, zest only • 3g xanthan gum To decorate • Royal icing
Method 1. Put the flour, xanthan gum and the ground almonds in a bowl and add the sugar, egg, butter, lemon zest and baking powder. 2. Quickly mix the ingredients together to form a dough. 3. Leave the dough to stand in the fridge for at least 1 hour before use. 4. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 5. Roll the dough out on a floured
6. 7.
surface and cut out the shaped biscuits. Put the biscuits on a baking tray and bake in a preheated oven for approx. 10 mins. Decorate with royal icing.
MANGO AND CHOCOLATE CREPES Ingredients Crepe mix • 250g gluten-free flour • 4 whole eggs • 30g caster sugar • 460g soya milk • 10g oil • Pinch of salt Mango cream • 300g fresh mango puree • 30g sugar • 3 eggs • 5 egg yolks • 110g dairy-free margarine • 6g gelatine leaves Chocolate spread • 120g soya butter • 100g dark chocolate • 40g sugar • 50ml water • 1 tsp vanilla • ½ tsp sea salt • 125ml soya cream Passion fruit sauce • 150ml soya milk • 25g sugar • 100g dark chocolate • 50g passion fruit pulp Method 1. To make the crepes, combine the flour, salt and caster sugar in a mixing bowl. 2. Add the eggs stirring vigorously with a whisk. 3. Pour the milk and the oil and allow to rest for at least 1 hour. 4. In a very hot pan, add a ladle full of batter and cook until golden underneath. 5. Flip the pancake over and cook until the other side is golden. 6. Continue to cook the pancakes until all the batter is used up. 7. To make the mango cream, put the mango puree, sugar, whole eggs
8. 9. 10.
11.
12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
and egg yolks into a saucepan over medium heat. Mixing continuously until it starts to boil, then remove from heat and add the margarine. Blend until dissolved and well mixed. Soak the gelatine in cold water. Squeeze the access water from the gelatine and add it to the mixture. Set in fridge and when set, pipe rods of the cream on a plastic sheet using a pastry bag fitted with a plain nozzle. Set aside in the freezer. When frozen cut the rods in about 10cm and put them back in freezer. To make the chocolate spread, chop the chocolate and place it into a stainless steel bowl. Dice the butter and leave to soften at room temperature. Put the sugar into a small saucepan and add just enough
water to wet the sugar. 17. Place the pan over heat and turn the sugar into caramel until it turns golden brown. 18. When the caramel has dissolved, add the cream and the vanilla and beat. 19. While still hot, pour the mixture over the chocolate and stir. 20. When the cream and the chocolate are incorporated, add the sea salt and butter. 21. Allow the ganache to cool completely. 22. To make the passion fruit sauce, cook the sugar into a caramel. 23. De-glaze with hot milk and gradually pour over the partly melted chocolate. 24. Add the passion fruit pulp and blend. 25. Spread the chocolate ganache on the crepe, place the mango cream and wrap it around. Trim both ends and cut it in half. 26. Serve with passion fruit sauce.
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Saint Honoré Ingredients • 400g puff pastry sheet, baked • 1 vanilla sponge sheet • 30ml maraschino, to soak the sponge • 50g raspberry jam, to spread Chocolate mousse • 210ml milk • 6 egg yolks • 30g sugar • 35g inverted sugar • 6g gelatine (soaked in cold water) • 590g dark chocolate • 750ml cream Choux pastry • 500ml water • 180g margarine • 300g flour • 9 eggs • 2 tsp baking powder Chiboust cream • 245ml milk • 8 egg yolks • 310g sugar, divided into separate bowls of 90g, 180g and 40g • 32g pastry cream powder • 1 tsp vanilla essence • 8g gelatine leaves (soaked in cold water) • 50ml water • 175g egg whites
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19. Method 1. Make the base by cooking the puff pastry sheet for 25 mins until golden and set aside to cool completely. 2. To make the chocolate mousse, bring the milk to the boil in a saucepan with the inverted sugar. 3. Whisk the egg yolks and the sugar. 4. Melt the chocolate in a bain marie. 5. Add the drained gelatine to the milk and pour it over the egg yolk mixture. 6. Finally add the melted chocolate and allow to cool down.
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Whisk the cream and pour mix into the chocolate mixture. To make the profiteroles, preheat the oven to 190°C. Combine the water and margarine in a saucepan and bring to boil. Add the flour and mix well. Remove from heat and put it in an electric mixer. Add the eggs gradually and the baking powder. Transfer the dough into a piping bag fitted with a plain nozzle and pipe onto a baking sheet. Bake in a pre-heated oven for approximately 25 mins. Allow to cool and set aside. To make the chiboust cream, soak the gelatine in cold water. Heat the milk, egg yolks, 90g of the sugar, vanilla and the pastry cream powder. Squeeze the gelatine leaves of excess water and add to the mixture. Prepare a syrup by combining the water and 180g of the sugar until it reaches the temperature of 121°C. Beat the egg whites with the 40g of the sugar and then pour in the hot syrup. Finally mix the cream with the meringue until well combined. Fill the choux buns with the chiboust cream. To assemble, spread the baked puff pastry sheet with the raspberry jam. Lay the sponge sheet on top and soak it with the marschino liqueur. In the middle, pipe alternately the chocolate mousse and the chiboust cream. Leave space on both sides and arrange the choux buns on top of the dessert. Decorate to your liking.
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Easter chocolate and vanilla cupcakes Ingredients Vanilla cupcakes • 230g flour • 30g baking powder • Salt • 130g light brown sugar • 2 eggs • 350ml milk • 90ml vegetable oil • 2 tsp vanilla essence Chocolate butter cream; • 225g unsalted butter, at room temperature • 450g icing sugar • 1 tsp vanilla essence • 110g bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled To garnish • Chocolate shavings • Chocolate eggs
Method 1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. 2. With an electric mixer, beat together the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, egg, milk, oil and the vanilla until smooth. 3. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tins, filing them about two thirds full. 4. Bake for approx. 25 mins until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cupcake comes out clean of batter. 5. To make the butter cream, whip the butter with a whisk on medium-high speed for 5 mins. 6. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the icing sugar. 7. Once mixed, increase the speed to medium-high and add the vanilla. 8. Add the melted chocolate and whip at medium-high speed until light and fluffy. 9. Decorate the cupcakes with chocolate mousse, chocolate shavings and chocolate eggs. 9. Alternating with the milk, gradually add the flour mixture to the butter mixture, and mix, on low speed, just until the flour is incorporated. 10. In a large bowl, beat reserved egg whites with a hand mixer until stiff but not dry. Using a rubber spatula, fold egg whites into batter. 11. Bake until well browned on top and the cake tester inserted into the centre comes out clean (approx. 45 mins). 12. Serve warm.
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HOMECOOKS
CHI
Y: JAMES BIAN
PHOTOGRAPH
HOMECOOKS
Easter Sunday lunch is characterised by spring veggies. Our homecooks put together an easy meal that is worthy of any celebrations. Nick Formosa starts off with a plate of pasta cooked with spring greens and Maltese sausage. Pascal Holland goes for the mains with a pan-roasted duck breast served with a fresh strawberry and prosecco sauce, and Gaby Holland rounds off the meal with a British classic – a Bakewell tart with a little bit of orange blossom water (ilma zaghar) in the frangipane filling to give it a little bit of a figolla flavour
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HOMECOOKS
VINI VILLA LARENA 100%, Ruby-red colour with purplish highlights, this wine has hints of red fruits on the nose. In the mouth it is extremely pulpy, well-structured with a strong but never intrusive tannin.
ORECCHIETTE WITH SAUSAGE AND SPRING GREENS Ingredients • 500g orecchiette • 2 bulbs local garlic • Olive Oil • 2 broccoli • 1 bunch asparagus • 1 lemon • 1 chilli • 2 Maltese sausages • 1 packet anchovies • 125ml chicken stock • ½ glass white wine • Grated Pecorino • Salted butter
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Method 1. Start off by separating the Maltese sausage from its skin. Discard the skin and fry the sausage meat until brown. 2. Separate the meat from the leftover fat in the pan, and set aside. 3. Chop a very generous amount of garlic and some chill and fry very lightly. 4. At this point add a lot of olive oil and butter.
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In the meantime chop the broccoli into florets and rinse. Chop the asparagus and set aside the heads. Add half the broccoli and asparagus to the simmering garlic, along with chicken stock. As the broccoli and asparagus soften take the pan off the heat and plunge into ice cold water to stop the cooking process. This will also keep the veggies bright green. Start to boil a large pot of salted water. As the pasta is boiling, chop some more garlic, chill and half a pot of anchovies finely. Simmer on low heat in olive oil. Next, add the rest of the broccoli florets into the pan and fry with a splash of white wine until just cooked. Keeping the colour and crunch. Once the pasta is ready, drain the water and place back into the pot. Add the whizzed broccoli sauce along with the Maltese sausage and mix very well. Add the broccoli batch into the pasta, along with generous amount grated pecorino. Before serving, fry the Asparagus heads in lemon, pepper, butter and the lemon zest. Serve with pecorino, and asparagus heads and lemon zest to garnish.
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HOMECOOKS
SALICE SALENTINO A wine of an intense red colour with garnetcoloured hints, made of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. To the nose fruity sensations of blackberry and black cherry, notes of basil and sweet spices due to the refinement in oak barrels. In the mouth it is smooth and balanced with a strong but never intrusive tannin. Long last finish.
DUCK BREAST WITH STRAWBERRY AND PROSECCO SAUCE Ingredients • 4 duck breasts • 180ml prosecco • 250g strawberries • 100g sugar • 4 potatoes • 2 beetroots • Sprig rosemary
12. Add the sugar and the prosecco and cook until the sugar has melted. 13. Slice the duck breast and serve with a side of roasted potatoes and beetroots and a dollop of strawberry and prosecco sauce.
Method 1. Pre-heat oven at 200°C. 2. Peel and chop potatoes and beetroots into cubes of approx. 2 ½cm. 3. Drizzle potatoes with olive oil, add rosemary and season well with salt and pepper. 4. Place in the oven for 20 minutes. 5. Using a sharp knife score the skin of the duck cutting in a diagonal direction. Be careful not to cut through to the meat. Repeat in opposite direction and season well. 6. Heat an ovenproof pan over a low heat and place duck breasts skin side down. 7. Slow cook for 10-15 minutes until skin is golden brown. Drain the fat as it cooks and reserve. 8. Transfer the duck to the oven for 2-3 mins until the duck breasts are firm to the touch but still quite pink inside. 9. Remove from oven, cover in foil and leave to rest for 10 mins. 10. Drizzle potatoes with the reserved duck fat allow to crisp. 11. Clean and hull the strawberries and add to a small saucepan.
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EASTER BAKEWELL TART This English classic, with jam, frangipane and icing, has been modified to give it a bit of a local twist. As figolli are on everyone’s mind around Easter, I added a little orange blossom water (ilma zaghar) to the frangipane filling to give this Bakewell tart a figolla twist. Ingredients For the short crust pastry • 225g plain flour, plus extra for dusting • 150g chilled butter • 1 large egg beaten • 2 tbsp cold water
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For the filling • 3 tbsp raspberry jam • 150g butter, softened • 150g caster sugar
For the icing • 200g icing sugar • ½ lemon, juice only • A little cold water
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150g ground almonds 1 orange, zest only 1 tsp orange blosson water (ilma zaghar) 1 large free-range egg, beaten 1 tsp almond extract
HOMECOOKS
Method 1. To make the pastry, measure the flour into a bowl and rub in the butter with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. 2. Add the beaten egg and water, mixing to form a soft dough. Cover in cling film and leave to chill in fridge for at least 10 mins. 3. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured work surface and use to line a 23cm flan tin. Leave in the fridge to chill for 30 mins. 4. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 5. Line the pastry case with non-stick baking paper and fill with baking beans. Bake blind for about 15 mins, then remove the beans and paper and cook for a further 5 mins to dry out the base. Set aside to cool whilst preparing the filling. 6. For the filing, spread the base of the flan generously with raspberry jam.
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Cream the butter and sugar together until pale and fluffy. Add the ground almonds, egg, orange zest and orange blossom water and mix together. Spoon the mixture into the pastry case and smooth the surface using a palette knife. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C and bake for 25–35 mins, until golden-and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely in the tin. Meanwhile, sift the icing sugar into a bowl. Stir in lemon juice and some cold water to obtain a smooth, fairly thick icing. When the tart has cooled completely, spoon the white icing on top and spread to form a smooth surface. Leave to set and decorate with fresh raspberries, blackberries or any other berries of your choice. Try using mini eggs for Easter! Serve in slices.
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Definitive(ly) Good Guide
CHEF OF THE MONTHil
A pr
Massimiliano Marino is the head chef of Panorama in Valletta Did you always want to be a chef or did you dream of being something else? From a young age I enjoyed experimenting in the kitchen at home preparing simple dishes for myself, so to be truthful, I probably did have a soft spot for cooking. However, at that time I did not ever imagine that working in the kitchen as a chef would end up being my chosen career path.
beautiful, like a painting. This has inspired my cooking style and creativity.
What made you decide to become a chef? My career as a chef started when, as a teenager, I started working in the kitchen of a restaurant as a summer job. Despite the hard work and the long hours working in the kitchen, I enjoyed it so much that I decided to become a professional chef.
Who is the most famous person you have ever cooked for? I cooked for Luciano Moggi, the exJuventus manager, in Rome and here at Panorama, for our Prime Minsiter, Joseph Muscat and his family.
How did your career progress to bring you to your present position and what are your plans for the future? I worked in various types of restaurants from casual to fine dining all located in different parts of the world such as Italy, Germany, Bahrain, UAE, and Malta. After having obtained my diploma in culinary art and having gained experience and confidence working as a chef after a number of years, I eventually reached the rank of head chef. In the future I would like to become an executive chef managing more than one kitchen at the same time. Which celebrity chef has most inspired you in the kitchen and why? I was inspired by Gualtiero Marchesi, considered to be the founder of modern Italian cuisine. His dishes are simple and
Vote for the Chef of the Month
Which is your favourite country for eating? Being Italian, Italy of course. Every region has a wonderful history and delightful food culture. Travelling from the south to the north of Italy, one can experience an amazing culinary journey.
What is your favourite ingredient to work with? I enjoy cooking pasta. I also love fish and sea food which is very versatile in the kitchen. My favorite herb is basil. I adore its smell. Is there a particular ingredient you do not personally like or never use? I never use dry herbs. I prefer using fresh ingredients. After food what are your other passions? Playing tennis and following Juventus. What advice would you give to someone who aspires to be a chef? Once you have received basic training, don’t be afraid to experiment with your ideas. Be creative and always strive for excellence in whatever you do.
Win a three-course meal for two at The Panorama Restaurant including a bottle of house wine and coffee with The DeďŹ nitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today.
The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants Chef of the Month Competition supported by The Catering Centre and Gourmet Today aims to recognise the chefs who make the restaurant the success that it is. The top 150 restaurants as voted into The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants in last year’s survey were asked to nominate their chefs for the Chef of the Month Competition. Each month two chefs are featured on www.restaurantsmalta.com and diners are asked to vote for who they think is the best based on presentation of the food, variety of ingredients used and creativity in their use. To be able to vote for your favourite chef sign up by registering on www.restaurantsmalta.com.
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WIN a meal for tw o
Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at this restaurant. Competition ends 30 April, 2017 The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.
267, St Ursula Street, Valletta Tel: 356 7987 7980 Web: www.panorama.com.mt Email:info@panorama.com.mt
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APRIL 2017
RECIPE INDEX STARTERS Stuffed courgette flowers
45
Orichette with sausage
65
MAINS Stir-fried chicken with cashews
15
Massaman curry
16
Stejk sangwicc
32
Spaghetti with prawns and marrows
41
Qarabaghli mimli
43
Seabass on pearl barley
51
Barbecue chicken strips
53
Duck breast with strawberry sauce
67
DESSERTS Sticky rice and mango
17
Deep fried bananas
18
Chocolate tart with coffee cream
31
Peanut butter and chocolate cookies
53
Mango and chocolate crepes
57
Saint Honore
59
EASTER TREATS Chocolate egg rocky road
35
Easter chocolate bark
35
Easter cookies
57
Easter cupcakes
61
Easter Bakewell tart
69
LIGHT SUPPERS Qarabaghli fritters
39
Hot courgette salad
39
Zalza pikanti
41
Broad bean and potato salad
49
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