Gourmet Today Issue 48 by MaltaToday

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SUPERB FLAVOUR COMBOS

AT LA SUPBERBA

ctober 2017

E N TH UM E T U SU A IS

ISSUE 48 â&#x20AC;¢ O

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Pippa Matte

Nick Formos

CONTRIBUTORS

Gaby Hollan

Editor’s note

fter what felt like the hottest summer we’ve had in a long time, the weather has cooled down a little. The skies are that crisp autumn blue, and you feel like you can actually breath outside. This means our appetite comes back. Days are shorter, but that means we get home earlier and can spend more time in the kitchen. As we leave the cold salads behind alone with our days on the beach, we reach for that comfort food that we’ve been avoiding through the hot season. And what better comfort food than a steaming plate of pasta? Whether you’re looking for some great recipes to make at home, or somewhere you can get typically Italian fresh pasta with a variety of classic sauces, we’ve got you covered. Pippa Mattei also feels like she can spend a little more time in the kitchen at this time of year, and baking is on the cards at the Mattei household. She puts together an eclectic mix of classic English biscuits, like jammy dodgers and Scottish shortbread along with some local favourites like ottijiet and biscuttini tal-maghmudija. Tea time has just got an upgrade! We hope this edition of Gourmet Today inspires you get back into the kitchen. We look forward to your comments and suggestions.

Pascal Holla n

Michael Iava

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Amy Micalle f Decesare

Michael Diac

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Bon appetit!

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CONTENTS Contact us Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt Head Designer: Kevin Grech

GOURMET TODAY WISH LIST These are a few of our favourite things

TABLE-HOPPING We just love to eat out. These are our favourites this season

Photography: James Bianchi, Rachel Zammit Cutajar

19 PERFECT PASTA Whether you’re looking for recipes to make at home or great spots for a perfect plate of pasta, we’ve got you covered

Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia afarrugia@mediatoday.com.mt Contact for advertising: Philippa Zammit pzammit@mediatoday.com.mt Ester Mocchegiani emocchegiani@mediatoday.com.mt

35 PIPPA MATTEI GOES ON AN AUTUMN BAKE Tea time will never be the same with these biscuit recipes

Published by:

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Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 2138 2741 Fax: +356 2138 1992 www.maltatoday.com.mt

Printed at: Print It Printing Services

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OCTOBER 2017

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AU TH T E IS UM SU N E

SUPERB FLAVOUR COMBOS

AT LA SUPBERBA

Cover: Lamb cutlets on a bed of polenta at La Superba Photo by James Bianchi

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35 44 WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S IN SEASON Gaby Holland whips up some autumn pumpkins

47 AN INFLUENCE FROM THE EAST Michael Iavarone, from Catermax, talks about business-to-business catering 51 WHERE EAST MEETS WEST Our homecooks use eastern flavours with local ingredients to create something a little bit special

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WISH LIST DELICIOUS BREWS IN PRETTY TEAPOTS HENRI TABLEWARE What self-respecting tea-lover doesn’t love pouring a delicious brew from a stylish teapot, into an equally eye-catching cup? We love the range of teapots and cups at HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique. HENRI… unique gift ideas for him, for her… or just for yourself.

Outlets: Pjazza Tigné & Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson) Tel: 2010 6306. www.henri.com.mt or facebook/henrimalta

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A job in food media comes with its own hazards, one of which is the huge wish list we put together when checking out different shops, meeting chefs and dining in restaurants. These are some of the items that have topped our list this season. Whether you’re looking to treat yourself or looking for a gift for a foodie, these are certainly worth checking out

PERFECT TOAST EVERY TIME RUSSELL AND HOBBS RETRO RIBBON TOASTER A toaster is a toaster, right? This one is not just prettier than your average toaster, it also promises to make your breakfast 65% faster than competing brands. The clever countdown gauge lets you know how soon to expect your toast to pop. This makes it easier to ensure you have your toppings ready!

Available from The Atrium, Mriehel By Pass, Mriehel. www.theatrium.com.mt

THESE LEMON AND POPPY SEED CUPCAKES

BILLIE D â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ROLLIN KITCHEN When you have salad for lunch, you should always have dessert. And at Billie D this should always be their lemon and poppy seed cupcake. Sweet, moist and lemony, this cupcake has seen us return on more than one occasion!

Available at Billie D. www.billie-d.com

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WISH LIST WARMING SOUPS IN STYLISH BOWLS MDINA GLASS Do you start turning to soup as the cooler months settle in as a warming, tasty lunch or starter? Well, how about enjoying your favourite recipes in handmade bowls created by Mdina Glass? The glassmaker offers a wide range of bowls in various colour combinations and a clear or frosted glass finish.

Check out the options at Mdina Glass outlets or online at www.mdinaglass.com. mt. For more info call 21415786 or email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt. Follow at facebook.com/mdinaglass

CLEAN AND SIMPLE PLACEMATS

ZARA HOMEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TABLEWARE When dinner is too casual for tablecloths and too fancy for bare tables, these simple placemats do the job. The neutral colours of their brand new botanical autumn range go well with wood, white and crockery of any style or colour scheme.

Available at Zara Home. www.zarahome.com/mt

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

SHARING IS CARING There was a time when Asian food meant oily Chinese with bright red sweet and sour pork and equally bright lemon chicken. Thankfully that has changed and we are seeing more variety (and better quality) Asian establishments opening their doors. YUGTO is the latest edition, with healthier Asian dishes that favour steaming over frying and mixing flavours and textures. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE gets a sneak peek.

alking through the hustle and bustle of Old Theatre Street on a Friday afternoon, I make my way to YUGTO, eyes shining, stomach growling. Making our way up the stairs, my guest and I were taken in by the familiar smell of… dumplings? Yes, my sense of smell is that fine-tuned. Eager to get a taste and feel of the up and coming restaurant, we even sprinted up the last few steps, an activity I do not partake in very often. Out of breath, we were greeted by a beaming Shaun Lee, founder of YUGTO and creator of the ‘sharing is caring’ theme and concept of the Asian-inspired restaurant. Having spent years travelling the world, and running two popular Asian restaurants locally, Shaun developed a keen sense and passion for the eclectic world of Asian cuisine, wanting nothing more than to gift the Maltese population with his very own fresh dumplings and deliciously warm and soothing ramen soup. But as usual, I’m getting ahead of myself. As I’m sure you’ve noticed, Valletta is the place to be nowadays, with streets, funky bars and cosy restaurants over-flowing with Malta’s youths (as well as those who are a tad older) regardless of what day of

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the week it is. Love for Asian food? Check. Passion to open a restaurant? Check. All that was missing? The perfect location. That is where Frank Grima came into the picture. Whilst scouting the streets for the perfect location for his brainchild, YUGTO, Shaun bumped into Frank. The two got on like a house on fire, Frank (like myself) fell hopelessly in love with the food and the rest is history. Shaun shows as much passion for the décor of the restaurant as he does for the food. Though the doors of the restaurant had not quite opened to the public, I was there on official tasting business and Shaun explained his plans – the installation of a large, cherry blossom tree. It is clear that he is cutting no corners. I have to say, the sheer authenticity of the décor, ambiance and food is unparalleled, but I don’t want to spoil any surprises just yet. Let’s get to those dumplings, shall we? Sitting on the chef’s table, my guest and I were presented with some tasters. Accompanied by a couple of craft beers (which is on tap and also significantly cheaper than at other places on the island), they went down a right treat. Beef bulgogi – let me explain – featuring incredibly tender slices of meat, accompanied by Shimeji mushrooms and a rich Japanese

bolgogi sauce, crunchy fresh edamame beans, which are always good fun, red duck curry with jasmine rice, prawn and avocado roll tempura, pad thai and the star of the show: the-cooked-for-over-12-hours ramen soup. Need I go on? I’ve often been described as a ‘selfish eater’, with a tendency to not want to share my food. Such an attitude stems from a traumatising childhood experience, when my uncle stole my chips in cold blood. With this in mind, can you only imagine how much I suffered, knowing I would have to share those Asian delicacies? Even more so knowing they were just tasters? I digress. What makes YUGTO so different from the rest, I hear you ask? Firstly, they’ve revolutionised everything you thought you knew about Asian food by introducing the concept of ‘sharing is caring’ Asian tapas. Secondly, many associate such a cuisine with an overload of oil and late night tummy aches. Again, YUGTO goes against the grain, as they make it their mission to give you a more refined, healthier but equally (if not more) delicious version of your favourites. Invite your buds, invite your partner, invite your 23 family members and give in to YUGTO’s charm. You know you want to.

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YUGTO Old Theatre Street, Valletta Tel: 99724928 YUGTO

PHOTOGRAPHY: SARAH KHOSLA

FRESH INGREDIENTS AND INTERESTING FLAVOUR COMBINATIONS New restaurants are a dime a dozen at the moment with new places opening up all the time. This leaves diners spoilt for choice but a new problem that diners now face is choosing the right restaurant. Fresh ingredients are paramount and interesting flavour combinations come in at a close second. RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR is happy that La Superba ticks both boxes

alletta seems to be getting all the good stuff. From being a ghost town after office closing time, our capital has finally seen a little bit of life pumped into her old walls. Insofar as restaurants go, the best ones seem to be setting up shop in Valletta, and why wouldn’t you? With hundreds of people flocking in during the day lunchtime is always busy, and this new lease of life in the evening sees Valletta as a destination of choice, whether you’re up for a night at the theatre, a couple of drinks or a meal. La Superba opened its doors last December, and following a short closure, is back under new management with Adriano Cefai and Paola Fiorini at the helm. As soon as you cross the threshold of the restaurant, you know you’re in for a good meal. The ambiance is modern and cool with exposed light fittings and ropes on the ceiling, giving off the trendy industrial vibe with a more refined finish. Artworks and wine bottles adorn the walls and slim, smart customers, dressed in suits are already sipping on their first glass of wine. The menu is short – just the way it should be – as the one thing on which La Superba are unwavering is the freshness 12 www.gourmettoday.recipes

of ingredients. Carpaccios depend on what fish is fresh at the beginning of the day, so a white fish carpaccio may be sea bass one day or local lampuki (dolphin fish) the next. Three of us settled down at our table and began to leaf through the menu, while we sipped on our wine and helped ourselves to bread. When deciding whether a restaurant is excellent or simply does a good job, the devil is in the detail. It is easy to get a number of main dishes right but can you do everything else? If detail is what we’re looking for then La Superba has it – homemade breadsticks, good quality olive oil served with their bread. We love the little things. On to the most important part… the food. We ordered three different starters including a prawn bisque served with chunks of local prawns with just a hint of thyme and served with crusty Maltese toast. The second starter was a pasta dish, the impressive black ravioli – dyed with squid ink – dotted with the bright red of roasted cherry tomatoes were served in a lemon sauce with a slightly sweet notes. The third starter is La Superba’s most popular and recommended by the chef, a trio of raw fish with a Mediterranean

and Asian mix including tuna in balsamic vinegar and soy, seabass with orange, pistachio and berries dusted on cocoa powder and a salmon tartare with peanut butter and fried ribbons of zucchini and carrots. This is not your average selection of crudi, but if you if you are looking for something a little bit different then these flavour combos are sure to hit your taste buds by surprise. The mains are a little more meaty! We settled for a dish of lamb cutlets wrapped in bacon served on a bed of polenta, fish skewers and an Italian version of fish and chips. How do you make fish and chips Italian you say? The chips are made from real potatoes, thinly sliced and quick-fried, more akin to homemade crisps than the chunky English version. The fish is Mediterranean – sea bass – made with a light Italian batter. The three of us were pretty full by the end of the meal so decided to skip the desserts but the menu promises more Italian delights. I feel like you should always leave a restaurant not having tried all the things you want to try. This way there is a very good excuse to return. And one thing’s for sure. We will return.

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La Superba 60, Melita Street, Valletta Tel: 21239843 Web: www.lasuperba.com.mt

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PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

MAKING THE MOST OF MEDITERRANEAN EVENINGS Cooler weather means more staying home, right? That doesn’t have to be the case. Vinotheque is making the most of the mild Mediterranean autumn with dinner and drinks, served outside on the terrace. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE heads down there to hold onto the summer vibe for a little bit longer.

or lack of a better phrase… winter is coming (shout-out to all you Game of Thrones fans out there). Long gone are the days when you could spend your Saturdays by the sea, having a leisurely lunch and then going for a quick refreshing dip. Depressing, right? No need to fret – Vinotheque is here to save the day; to lift your spirits and to extend your ‘summer’ evenings, making the most of the Mediterranean weather that allows us to dine outdoors well into the autumn. Sitting on the spacious terrace on a cool October evening, my guest and I sipped our crisp white wine and felt the stresses of the day roll off our shoulders. With a smile, head chef Nicky Vella brought over our first dishes – cheese fritter, complete with vegetable ratatouille, local white goats cheese and tomato coulis as well as an avocado and cherry tomato saladette. Okay, let’s go through this step by step. The cheese fritter? Divine. The crunchy exterior contrasted magnificently by the soft, melted goats cheese interior, you’re left wanting more (in my case, 12 more to be exact!) The avocado and cherry tomato saladette? Fun and fresh. Perfect for those who would rather a light and easy introduction to the meal. I, for one, am 14 www.gourmettoday.recipes

not one of those people but I enjoyed it immensely nonetheless. Served in a filo pastry basket, the avocado is complemented by the traditional Greek tzatziki. Let’s be honest, who doesn’t like tzakziki? As we waited for our main courses with excitement and longing, I saw something glistening through the corner of my eye. The Maltese menu. Vinotheque certainly has a few tricks up its sleeve – primarily that of its Maltese menu. Rarely do restaurants in Malta offer an entire menu of traditional Maltese food (strange, right? Considering we actually live in Malta). Featuring winners like ravjul Malti, bragioli and spaghetti bizzalza tal-fenek, I felt a sudden wave of overwhelming sadness wash over me. In our haste and impatience, we had ordered our mains before I even knew such a thing existed. Not to fear… we’ll be back. A few minutes later, our second course arrived. Fresh tagliatelle, served with langoustine, a dash of white wine, olive oil, basil and cherry tomatoes. Chef Nicky certainly knew what he was doing with this one. Allowing the langoustine to speak for itself and let me tell you, it not only spoke, but delivered a Shakespearean monologue, it was complemented greatly by the

simplistic nature of the sauce. The slow-cooked fish special of the day was meager, gurbell in Maltese; one of the most delicious fish available locally. Cooked alongside shellfish in a seafood liquor, if you’re a fish lover, you have met your soul-mate. If you’re a meat lover on the other hand, like I am, the beef tagliata is the way to go. A perfect medium-rare, served with parmeggiano and rucola, on a beef reduction sauce, the words ‘delicious’, ‘tender’ and ‘delectable’ just don’t do it justice. You’re just going to have to try it for yourself to truly understand. With one final longing glance at Maltese menu, we bid our goodbyes to Vinotheque, all the while making a mental note to return the following weekend, if even just for those bragioli. We made our way to the car park, where diners are entitled to three hours of free parking both at lunch and dinner time. Parking can be tough in St Julian’s at any time but a trip to Vinotheque comes free of all the hassles involved with finding a spot for your vehicle. Winter is coming, but does that mean you’re destined to spend the next few months on your sofa eating cereal? Certainly not. Treat yourself and book a table at Vinotheque instead, they’re open daily for lunch and dinner, so no excuses.

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Vinotheque Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort St. Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay, St Julians Tel: 2370 2000 Email: info@marinahotel.com.mt Web: www.marinahotel.com.mt DiscoverMarina

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

BREAKING STEREOTYPES

When’s the last time you’ve eaten at a buffet? If you’re a foodie, the answer is probably not in the last year. Buffet tables don’t have the best reputation for quality food. Fra Martino, at the Corinthia in St George’s Bay is breaking stereotypes, offering the best in surf and turf right there at their buffet. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE gets converted into a buffet lover.

t’s a chilly Saturday evening and yet again, you’ve found yourself sitting in front of Netflix with two (or five) slices of buttered toast. Well, stop right there. I’ve got an alternative for you and it goes by the name of Fra Martino. Situated in the lavish Corinthia Hotel St. Georges Bay, Fra Martino Restaurant is truly a delight for all, including you, your partner, your large group of friends, even your two little kids. My guest and I arrived, ravenous, and were escorted into the beautiful dining room, complete with warm atmospheric lighting, a pianist and highly attentive, friendly staff. A few seconds later, we were seated. A few seconds after that, we were bouncing out of our chairs. We caught sight of the buffet and let me tell you, it was a beautiful sight. Just a little disclaimer: I am not the biggest fan of buffets, primarily because, let’s be honest, one does not generally associate buffets with the highest quality of food. Fra Martino have not only dashed that stereotype, but they have successfully converted me into a buffet enthusiast, or more specifically – a Fra Martino buffet enthusiast. Here’s what makes the restaurant’s buffet one to jot down in your planner. It’s a surf and turf buffet, meaning that the usual chips and chicken nuggets, chewy, overcooked pasta and lukewarm hash browns are nowhere to be seen. Featuring only the best kinds of meat and fish, the buffet table was straining under the weight of sumptuous-looking food and the freshest of ingredients, including salmon and octopus on one side and grilled rib-eye

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steak on the other. There’s nothing I enjoy more than watching chefs oozing talent as they swiftly grill a rib-eye in front of your eyes and then effortlessly present it to you on a plate. Assistant chef, Keith Cassar, prepared three beautiful dishes for my guest and I, featuring only items that could be found on the buffet table. In this way, we were able to compare and contrast the chef’s meticulously prepared dishes and those which I could potentially assemble myself. Truth be told, the only difference was the way in which they were plated. Not one detail was overlooked. Each and every item on available on the buffet table was prepared and cooked with the same exact amount of love, care and passion. Seeing as I am the clumsiest of people, my

attempts at visually re-creating the chef’s dishes were, at best, an embarrassment. As if the surf and turf tables weren’t enough to complete my Saturday evening, cue the dessert table. Out of the 15 or so desserts that were on display, we thought it necessary to try… well, 15 of them, just to be sure. To name a few: baked cheesecake, pecan and chocolate tart, warm bread and butter pudding, chocolate and cream profiteroles. Feeling like we may have exaggerated slightly, we thought it best to end the experience on a healthy note – so we threw in some fresh fruit for good measure. It’s been just over a week since I visited Fra Martino and dare I say, it’s time to go back. Ditch those slices of toast, I’ll see you there next Saturday at 8pm.

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PHOTO: BRIAN GRECH

Fra Martino Corinthia Hotel St. Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay Tel: 2137 4114 Email: stgeorges@corinthia.com Web: www.corinthiahotel/stgeorges

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Attard & Co. Food Ltd Tel: 21 237555 facebook.com/attardcofood

PERFECT PASTA While the weather is hot we tend to go for more cold foods. After a very long season of eating cold, we are happy to get back to one of our greatest comfort foods – a steaming hot plate of pasta. Whether you’re looking for an Italian-style restaurant to have the best pasta of your life, or looking for some interesting recipes you can make at home, we’ve got you covered.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

FRESH IS BETTER When you think of quality pasta you think of an Italian grandma, hand-rolling long sheets of fresh, yellow dough. Impasta takes this concept very seriously and, though they are not your grandmother, they put the same amount of love into each and every dish. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE is in for a treat as she heads down there to check it out

id you know that the recommended portion of pasta per person is 75g? Hilarious, right? Especially seeing as I personally, could wolf down as much in just two forkfuls. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Just last week, I was making my way to Impasta, in St Julian’s, unable to contain my excitement. Having spent the day restraining myself from snacking, I was yearning for the moment I could sit back and consume pasta to my heart’s content. Just in case you didn’t get the memo, I adore pasta. Being the avid fan that I am, I was certainly prepared to eat. What I wasn’t prepared for, however, was to be blown away. Let me explain. As we walked in, we were faced with a large blackboard, featuring what seemed like hundreds of options, categorised according to pasta types and sauces. Just ahead of us was a pasta bar. Yes, that’s right; A PASTA BAR. Just let that sink in. Featuring 10 different kinds of pasta, including spaghetti, penne, bucatini, fusilli, paccheri (need I go on?) and 20 different sauces, Impasta gives you the novel opportunity to mix and match your meal and thus create the pasta hybrid of your dreams.

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This was too much excitement for me to handle and therefore, I left the choice in the capable hands of owner and brain behind the whole operation, Francesco Mangio. The passion with which Francesco described the preparation and cooking process of his beloved noodles, was like I have never heard before. Nowhere else on the island, claimed Francesco, does a restaurant offer such a vast choice, not only of types of pasta, but of the different flours used. Did you happen to catch that? Impasta dashes the idea of run-of-the-mill (no pun intended) flour and makes use of only the best and somewhat bizarre. Fully embracing the concept of bringing an authentic Italian artisan kitchen to Malta, Impasta incorporates flours such as timilia, khorosan wheat, also known as kamut and wait for it… hemp flour, into their freshly-made dishes. Naturally, we tried each and every one. With each one delivering an entirely different taste and texture, I highly recommend you do the same. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed. Frankly, I don’t have the heart to describe the pasta dishes we were presented, primarily because the fact that I’m not

currently devouring their traditional and delicious plate of amatriciana physically pains me. But I’ll try. We were presented with no fewer than five plates. These included a couple of classics, such as the carbonara, amatriciana and my personal favourite, the basil pesto, as well as a few that were concocted and mastered by Francesco himself, such as the diavola, which incorporated a divine mix of fresh-off-the-boat tuna, cherry tomatoes, chili and olives and his most highly recommended, the broccolina, perfect for vegetarians and vegans and everyone else, which consisted of spring onions, cherry tomatoes, broccoli and chili. Simply put, fresh is always better. In the case of Impasta, not even your grandmother’s fresh pasta compares. I’m fully aware that that is a huge claim to make, but I dare you to prove me wrong. Seeing as they’re open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, and opening a new outlet at the new Is-Suq tal-Belt in Valletta, you have every opportunity to do so. In the not too distant future there will also be the opportunity to buy their pasta, sauces and lasagne to make in the comfort of your own home. Watch this space for more details.

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Impasta Triq Dobbie 8, St Julianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tel: 2737534 Web: www.impasta.bar

ImPasta

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

FRESH PASTA MADE BY ARTISANS IN VALLETTA If you’re looking for something to eat in Valletta you are spoilt for choice with so many eateries offering food from all over the world. If you’re looking for pasta, however, Pastaus has to your first choice offering fresh pasta, made in-house, with a selection of Italian sauces. Flour used for the pasta is totally organic, with gluten-free options including buckwheat and hemp seed among others. AMY MICALLEF DECESARE has no problems testing this place out.

he weather is perfect, the skies are blue, the sun is shining and I have never been more ready to consume my weight in tagliatelle. Walking through the busy streets of Valletta, like guided missiles, my guest and I have one goal in mind and that is to dominate the world of pasta. Finally, we caught sight of Pastaus in all its glory, in Old Theatre Street. The entire area is vibrating with life, bright red walls, the menu scrawled in coloured chalk, vibrant potted plants and dozens of satisfied customers waltzing in and out, each with a bigger smile than the one before. I cannot stress how eager I was to find out exactly what they were smirking about. Too excited to waste too much time perusing the menu, my guest and I chose to trust fate and leave our orders in the hands of owner and pasta-enthusiast Massimo Abbate and his wife Frederica. I’m not going to lie. I would probably have been as happy as a clam regardless of what kind of pasta he placed in front of me but I convinced myself that the apprehension made it that much more

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exciting. Disclaimer: I was not disappointed and trust me, neither will you be. Presenting… four dishes of pure heaven. Traditional tagliatelle, made fresh and combined with sublime salmon chunks, lemon zest, parmesan cheese, pistachio and their not-so-secret ingredient, brandy, not too heavy, not too creamy, delicious and visually enticing, much like the restaurant itself. I’m not too sure how visually appealing my guest and I looked wolfing it down, however. Next. Their most highly recommended, and my personal favourite, the norma. Made with spinach-infused flour, aubergine, fresh, home-made tomato sauce and ricotta salata cheese, the dish is so satisfying, I was concerned that nothing would ever compare. Rich and creamy, the home-made tomato sauce kicks the standard canned tomato paste out of the metaphorical park. Simply put, nothing compares to freshly made anything, much less when it comes to pasta sauces. Next up: the classic carbonara, made with spaghetti alla chitarra pasta, eggs (and a lot of them), guanciale, parmesan

and pecorino romano. Many have made the grave mistake of adding cream to a carbonara, we’ve all seen it before. Take it from a Sicilian, however, nothing more or less is supposed to be added other than the pre-mentioned four magical ingredients. Finally. We’ve come to the last dish. The gluten-free buckwheat pasta, made with chickpeas, chestnut flour and a dash of love (I know that was cheesy, but just go along with it), combined with the freshest of the fresh, including avocado, zucchini, crunchy almonds and cherry tomatoes. Ideal for the more health conscious, also perfect for those who actually have to function after lunch. Lighter and much less food-comainducing, the pasta persea is the one to go for if any or all of the above applies to you. In the same way as other pasta bars function, Massimo and Frederica encourage patrons to pick and choose exactly what they feel like eating, including pasta type and sauce. Have you ever been given such intense power over your own food (unless you’re in your own kitchen, of course)? Me neither, and the result is truly marvelous.

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Old Theatre Street, Valletta Tel: 27023141 pastaus

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A CORNER OF ITALY IN VALLETTA When you think of Italian food, what immediately comes to mind? Pasta and pizza of course. Pasta Pizza Doc is the new kid on the block in Valletta offering a made-in-Italy style of food – fresh pasta, fresh pizza with winning combinations as well as a few of their own innovations. FRESH PASTA WITH CERTIFIED SAUCES The pasta served in the restaurant is exclusively fresh pasta: spaghetti, tagliatelle, maccheroni with crest and fusilloni gigli. The pasta is made with durum wheat semolina flour “re-milled”, imported from Italy and has been handcrafted to keep its taste and remain “al dente”. The sauces, the classics of Italian and Tuscan cuisine, follow a series of recipes certified by the Accademia Italiana Chef Institute, which guarantees a 100% “Italian Taste”. THE PAN PIZZA BY THE SLICE Pizza sold in rectangular slices is an Italian classic, reminiscent of days walking the streets of Rome or Florence. Though local pastizzi shops have their own version, a 100% Italian version is difficult to find in Malta. The dough is made with selected Italian flours and is a long meticulous process, almost 24 hours, giving the dough a light, fragrant, crispy bottom with tasty toppings. All the ingredients used are strictly Italian, from the extra virgin oil to the mozzarella fiordilatte. FOR A QUICK MEAL OR A SNACK The Pasta Pizza Doc is also devoted providing quality product takeaways. Their boxes have been designed to ensure that both the pizza and the pasta arrive at their destination bearing the same quality as when they left the kitchen. WHERE TO FIND THEM Pasta Pizza Doc is situated next to the old Valletta Market. Open daily for lunch and dinner and special opening hours upon reservation. 24 www.gourmettoday.recipes

Pasta Pizza Doc 11, Felix Street, Valletta Tel: 21240411 Pasta-Pizza-Doc-Valletta

THE COMFORT OF PASTA Cooler temperatures and a returning appetite mean pasta comes back onto the menu. Pasta truly is a blank canvas that can be transformed by the many different flavours you can choose for sauces. Michael Diacono, really is the king of pasta. At the end of a hard day’s work in the kitchen, a pasta dish really is the easiest thing to put together for the family.

Ravioli in saffron butter Ingredients Pasta • 300g flour • 3 eggs • 1 tsp salt • 1 tbsp olive oil Filling • 6 fresh gbejniet • Handful borage leaves • Handful borage flowers • Salt and pepper Sauce • 1 tbsp butter • Olive oil • 1 clove garlic • Salt and pepper • A few strands saffron

3. 4. 5.

6. 7. 8.

Method 1. To make the pasta place the flour directly onto the surface and

make a well in the centre. Add the eggs, olive oil and salt and beat the mixture slowly encorporating the flour from the sides. Knead the dough until smooth. Wrap in cling film and place in the fridge for 30 mins. To make the filling place the borage leaves in a pan with some butter and olive oil and allow to wilt and allow to cool. Mix in the fresh gbejniet and grate the dried gbejniet into the mixture. Add a handful of borage flowers and season with salt and pepper. Add the chopped parsley and set aside until ready to use. Roll out the dough, using a pasta machine if you have one.

10. Place teaspoons of filling approx. 1 inch apart. 11. Moisten the sides with water and fold the pasta over the filling and press down to seal. 12. Cut into individual ravioli and place on a floured tray until ready to cook. (You can freeze the ravioli at this stage.) 13. To make the sauce, melt the butter in a pan and add the garlic, saffron, salt and pepper. 14. When ready to serve place the ravioli in boiling water and cook for a couple of minutes until the ravioli come to the top of the boiling water. 15. Place in the pan with the sauce and toss. 16. Serve with a handful of borage flowers.

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Tagliatelle with orange, black olives and bottarga Ingredients • 500g tagliatelle • 1 tbsp butter • 1 tbsp black olives, sliced • ½ tsp chilli • Handful parsley • 1/3 orange, zest only • Bottarga Method 1. Boil the tagliatelle in salted water according to the packet instructions.

3. 4.

Melt the butter in a pan with the black olives and the chilli. Add the orange zest and the grated bottarga. Add the pasta to the sauce and allow to cook in the pan for the final couple of minutes. Serve immediately topped with toasted breadcrumbs.

Penne with chicken livers Ingredients • 500g Rummo glutenfree penne • Knob butter • Olive oil • ½ onion • 2 cloves garlic • 4 large chestnut mushrooms • 200g chicken livers, cleaned and roughly chopped • A few leaves sage • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 1 glass sherry • 150ml fresh cream • Handful parsley • Pecorino, to serve Method 1. Boil the pasta in salted water until al dente.

3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Heat some butter in a pan with the olive oil and add the onion and the garlic and cook until soft and translucent. Slice the mushrooms and add to the pan. Add the chicken livers and the sage and fry until just cooked. Add the balsamic vinegar and mix well. Add the sherry and allow to cook for a few mins. Add the cream and mix well. Add the pasta to the sauce and cook for the last couple of mins in the sauce. Add the parsley. Mix well and serve with a little cheese.

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Nanna Rita’s imqarrun fil-forn Ingredients Ragu • ½ aubergine • 2 carrots • 200g beef liver, diced • 250g minced beef • 250g minced pork • 4 tbsp kunserva • 500ml tomato sauce • Salt and pepper Imqarrun • 500g penne rigatoni • 4 eggs • Salt and pepper • 500ml milk • 200g Parmesan Method 1. Start by making the ragu. Dice the carrots and the aubergine. 2. Fry the aubergine in a saucepan in vegetable oil making sure there is enough oil in the pan. The aubergine will absorb the oil and then start to burn. 3. When the aubergine is golden add the carrot and allow to cook for a few more mins. 4. Add the liver and allow to cook until the liver browns. 5. Add the minced beef and pork and season with salt and pepper. 6. Allow to cook until the meat is browned on all sides. Approx 5 mins. 7. Add the kunserva and mix well and cook for a few mins to allow the kunserva to be absorbed by the meat. 8. Add the tomato sauce, adding a little water if the sauce is too dry. 9. Cover, reduce the heat and allow to simmer for 1 ½ hours, making sure that the sauce isn’t too dry. 10. Boil the pasta in salted water leaving a little raw. If the packet says to cook for 12 mins, cook for 8 as the pasta will continue to cook in the oven. 11. Grease a dish with butter and dust with polenta. 12. I’m a separate bowl beat the eggs and season with salt and pepper. 13. Add the milk and mix well. 14. When the pasta is ready add a layer to the bottom of the dish, a layer of the ragu and a layer of cheese. 15. Repeat the same layers until all the pasta and sauce has been used up. 16. Pour over the egg and milk mixture over the top. 17. Add a little more pepper and bake in a preheated oven at 200C for 30 mins.

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www.gourmettoday.recipes 31 PHOTOGRAPHY: RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR

Spaghetti with fennel and anchovies Ingredients • 500g spaghetti • 1 bulb fennel, roughly diced • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped • 1 tsp chilli flakes • 3 sundried tomatoes, finely chopped • 4 tbsp pine nuts • 4 tbsp black olives • 2 tbsp raisins • Handful mint • Handful fennel leaves • 12 anchovy fillets, marinated in oil • Handful parsley Gremolata • 1 clove garlic • 1 tsp chilli (optional) • 1 tsp rosemary • 2 handfuls breadcrumbs Method 1. Start by making the gremolata. Heat some olive oil in a separate pan and add the garlic, chilli, if using, and the rosemary and cook until fragrant. 2. Add the breadcrumbs and allow to fry until golden. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat and set aside. 3. Add the pasta to salted boiling water until al dente. 4. Heat the olive oil in the pan and add the diced fennel. 5. Add the garlic and the chilli flakes. 6. Add the sundries tomatoes and the pine nuts and season with salt and pepper. 7. Add the whole black olives and allow to simmer for a few mins until the fennel is soft. 8. Add the raisins, mint and the fennel leaves. 9. Add the pasta to the pan with the sauce with a little bit of the water from the pot and toss. 10. Add the anchovy fillets, reserving a few for the top. 11. Add the gremolata and the remaining anchovy fillets and serve.

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Spaghetti with calamari, beans and olives Ingredients • 1 red onion, chopped • 2 cloves garlic • Olive oil • ½ chilli • 2 bay leaves • 2 sprigs oregano • 2 tbsp black olives • 4 large tbsp cannellini beans • 3 tsp smoked paprika • 1 tin whole tomatoes • ½ lemon, zest only • 1 calamari, cleaned and peeled • Salt and pepper • 500g Rummo spaghetti No. 3 Method 1. Boil the pasta in salted water until al dente. 2. Gently fry the onion in olive oil with the garlic and chilli. 3. Add the bay leaves, oregano, olives and beans. 4. Add the paprika and mix well. 5. Add the tomatoes without the sauce from the tin and the lemon zest and season with salt and pepper. 6. Score the calamari and cut into rough chunks. 7. Add the pasta with a little bit of the cooking water to the sauce and add the calamari. 8. Garnish with some more oregano and serve immediately.

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PIPPA MATTEI

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

As the weather cools down, and you clear your larder of all your summery ingredients, why not start a weekly biscuit bake? Here I have some of my favourite tried-and-tested recipes, some dating back from my dear aunts’ cookery books. Make a batch a week, and see how welcome they are with a cup of tea or coffee or anytime someone gets the ‘munchies’.

Get more of Pippa’s recipes in her book Pippa’s Festa.

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PIPPA MATTEI

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USE ROOM TEMPERATURE INGREDIENTS When at room temperature, eggs, butter, and other dairy ingredients form an emulsion that traps air. While baking in the oven, that trapped air expands and produces a fluďŹ&#x20AC;y baked good. Mixing cold butter into eggs or creaming with sugar with result in a curdled mixture.

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PIPPA MATTEI MALTESE CHRISTENING BISCUITS BISKUUTTINI TAL-MAGHMUDIA

Makes 30 Ingredients • 4 eggs • 350g caster sugar • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon • ¼ tsp ground cloves • 25g candied peel, ﬁnely chopped • 350g plain ﬂour • 1 tsp baking powder Royal icing • 1 egg white • 225g icing sugar Method 1. Pre-heat oven to 180°C. 2. Separate eggs and beat whites until stiff, whisk in the yolks. 3. Slowly add the sugar and the cinnamon and ground cloves. 4. Add the chopped candied peel and fold into the mixture.

Sift the flour and the baking powder and again fold into the egg mix. Do not beat. 6. Grease some baking paper on baking sheets, and sprinkle with 1 tbsp flour and 1 tbsp sugar. 7. Place oval tbsp of the biscuit mixture onto the baking sheet leaving space between each mound. 8. Bake biscuits for 15 mins until firm but still light coloured. 9. Cool on racks. 10. To make the icing sugar beat the egg whites until frothy. 11. Gradually add the icing sugar, then beat on high speed until stiff glossy peaks form. This should take 5 – 7 mins. 12. Decorate the biscuits with curls of white and pink royal icing. Glass cookie jar available at CAMILLERI PARIS MODE

JAMMY DODGERS Makes 12 double biscuits Ingredients • 200g self-raising ﬂour • 100g butter cut into squares • 75g sugar • 1 egg yolk, mixed with a little water + ½ tsp cinnamon • 200g (approx. ½ jar) strawberry jam Method 1. Preheat oven to 180˚C. 2. Rub the squares of butter into the flour, add the sugar and mix well. 3. Slowly add the egg yolk, mixed in a little water with the spoon of cinnamon mixed in. Only add as much as you need to make a stiff but moist paste.

Knead lightly on a floured surface and roll out to biscuit thickness 0.5cm. 5. With a biscuit cutter, cut out rounds approx. 5cm. 6. With an apple corer cut out small holes in the centre of half the biscuit rounds. Bake all the biscuits for about 20 mins until golden. 7. Take out of the oven and allow to cool. 8. While the biscuits are cooling, put the strawberry jam into a pan and warm gently until runny. 9. Put a tsp of jam in the centre of the whole biscuit rounds, then top each one with the rounds that have holes in the centre of them, pressing down gently. 10. Set aside until jam has set and bound the two biscuit halves together. 11. Store in a biscuit tin.

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PIPPA MATTEI SHORTBREAD Ingredients • 175g plain ﬂour • 75g sugar • 175g butter, at room temperature • 85g semolina Method 1. Pre-heat oven to 150°C. 2. Warm a mixing bowl slightly – it mustn’t be hot, just warm – then add all the ingredients and beat with a wooden spoon till thoroughly blended. 3. Transfer the dough on to a lightly sugared flat surface. 4. Roll it out to a rectangle to fit into a 28cm X 28cm tin.

5. 6.

Press it evenly then prick it all over with a fork and bake slowly for 1 hour. Cool for 10 mins; cut the mixture into fingers and cool them on a wire rack before storing in a tin.

Storage

Make sure biscuits are completely cold before storing in an air tight container so that they remain crisp.

MELTING MOMENTS Makes about 30 biscuits Ingredients • 150g butter, at room temperature • 120g sugar • 1 egg • 15 glacé cherries • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 200g self-raising ﬂour • 1 small packet plain cornﬂakes or some porridge oats

Method 1. Pre-heat oven to 180˚C. 2. Cream butter and sugar until pale and fluffy, beat in the egg and vanilla essence and then fold in flour. 3. Mix into a stiff dough. 4. Make small balls in your hands and roll these in the oats. 5. Put these balls onto a greased and floured baking tray, and place half a glacé cherry on each one. 6. Bake for 20-30 mins until pale golden, then allow to cool.

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PIPPA MATTEI OTTIQIET This was adapted from a recipe by Mary Ferro Montaldo Ingredients • 400g plain ﬂour • 3 tsp baking powder • 200g sugar • 150g margarine • 15g lard • 1 egg • ½ lemon, zest only, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • Good amount sesame seeds Method 1. Pre-heat oven to 180˚C. 2. Sift the flour and baking powder together. 3. Beat fats and sugar till pale and fluffy. 4. Slowly add beaten egg adding a spoon of flour and mixing with each addition. 5. Add the grated zest or vanilla extract then fold in the rest of the flour. Mix very well. 6. Prepare a clean surface and a tray scattered with sesame seeds. 7. Roll a handful of dough into a fat sausage shape on the clean surface. 8. Transfer to the sesame seed tray and continue to roll into a thin sausage shape. 9. Now make rolls into figure of eights and place on a lightly greased baking tray, and bake in oven for about 25 mins till golden and firm. 10. Take out of the oven, allow biscuits to cool on baking tray, and when cold store in airtight container.

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AUTUMN PUMPKINS

In Season

By Gaby Holland

t’s pumpkin season, with pumpkin and butternut squash recipes showing up everywhere. Because it can be cooked in a variety of ways – baked or roasted, sautéed, in a purée, in soups or stews and as a sweet addition to other hearty winter dishes – there is little chance of tiring of this well-loved vegetable. Butternut squash is one of my

favourite winter squash varieties. It is bell shaped with a nuttier, sweeter flavour than the pumpkin and with a lower water content, so it’s consistence is somewhat creamier too. It belongs to a species known as C. moschata, a group of squash that grows on a vine. Archaeological evidence suggests that squash may have first been cultivated between PHOTOGRAPHY: GABY HOLLAND

Pumpkin

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North America and South America (known as Mesoamerica) around 10,000 years ago. Squash was one of the three main crops (maize (corn), beans, and squash) planted by Native Americans. Butternut squash is very nutritious. The flesh is full of vitamins A and C, and it has a naturally sweet flavour especially when roasted. The seeds are packed with protein and heart-healthy fats. There are two ways to roast butternut squash – skin on, and skin off. It’s easiest to roast skin on, that way you don’t need to deal with peeling. This method works best if you are planning to stuff it, make a butternut squash purée, or you simply want to scoop out the cooked flesh and you’re not worried about the presentation. Butternut squash will keep in a cool, dark part of your kitchen for several weeks. It does not need to be refrigerated.

Fun Fact s • • • • •

The butternut squash is interchangeable with the pumpkin in Australia, causing them to call it the butternut pumpkin. When planting butternut squash, it is important to have a large area for cultivation, as the seeds can send out vines up to ﬁve metres long. Both the skin and the seeds of the butternut squash are edible. The seeds are best roasted with a little bit of salt. Eating butternut squash can improve lung health and studies have shown decreased incidents of lung cancer. This vegetable is often used as one of the ﬁrst foods for babies, since they are tolerated by children

•

• • •

because of the taste. The butternut squash may be high in carbohydrates but studies have shown that since not all starches are the same, this vegetable brings a lot of key nutrients. It grows on a vine and when the vegetable turns to a deep orange, it becomes sweeter, richer and more ripe. They are often regarded as the winter squash, but are never grown in the winter. They are picked in the autumn. Consuming a small cup of butternut squash can provide an ample amount of Vitamin A, which is important for eye health and immune functions.

STUFFED BUTTERNUT SQUASH Serves 2 Ingredients • 1 butternut squash, cut in halfdeseeded • 1 tsp cinnamon • 1 tsp honey • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 large onion, ﬁnely chopped • 3 cloves garlic, minced • ½ cup farro • 100g cooked chick peas (or half a tin, rinsed and drained) • 1 tsp harissa paste • 1 tsp tomato paste • 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds • 1 tbsp lemon juice • Salt and pepper • 2 tbsp fresh parsley

Method 1. Preheat oven to 220°C. 2. Cut squash in half, take the seeds out and brush ﬂesh with a mixture of some of the olive oil, cinnamon and honey. 3. Season with salt and pepper and place cut side down on a foil covered baking sheet. 4. Bake for about 40 mins, or until tender when pierced with a fork. 5. While the squash is baking, cook the farro according to instructions (you may use barley or whole grain rice instead). 6. Heat the remaining olive oil in a pan and fry onions and garlic until lightly golden.

7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.

Add the harissa, tomato paste, chickpeas and give all a good stir. Remove from heat and when farro is cooked add to the mixture. Stir in some of the parsley (reserve some for garnish and sunflower seeds. Season to taste. Carefully scoop out some of the flesh from the butternut squash to make a larger cavity to stuff. Mix excess squash into filling mixture. Stuff squash with farro mixture and return to the oven for an additional 5 mins. Sprinkle remaining parsley and serve.

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E: info.stjulians@radissonblu.com T: +356 2137 4894

CREATING A MORE PRODUCTIVE WORKFORCE Happy employees mean increased productivity and what keeps people happier than food? Michael Iavarone, chief operating officer of Catermax, a subsidiary of Corinthia Group, talks to RACHEL ZAMMIT CUTAJAR about their focus on business to business catering, helping companies to increase their own staff welfare.

ust imagine this. 1pm comes around, you’re absolutely starving – easy so far, this happens every day – you get up, head to the canteen to find a hot meal waiting for you. For a lot of Maltese workers this seems like little more than a fantasy, however some companies are starting to see the value in looking after their staff as well as they expect their staff to look after their business. Free lunch is just one way in which businesses can pay more attention to staff welfare. Research also shows that when team members are happy at work, they are better collaborators, work to common goals, and are more innovative. The Harvard Business Review published an analysis of hundreds of studies showing an average of 31% higher productivity, 37% higher sales, with creativity three times higher. So looking after your staff really does pay. Michael Iavarone is the chief operating officer, COO, of Catermax, a company that has identified the importance of staff welfare and is working towards a

happier workforce – not just in their own company, but helping other companies do the same. “Until recently Catermax was just an outside catering company, which put emphasis on weddings and events. Today we have shifted our efforts and have taken a more business to business approach, with a specific focus on contract catering, canteen and restaurant operation, hotel food and beverage sub-contracting, event cash bars and food stalls. We work with various businesses to improve their food offering and create a happier and more productive workforce by offering better quality canteen environments. If you expect five-star work from your employees you need to give back a five-star service.” Though Michael admits that most of the companies going down this route are foreign, it is a market that is growing. Having spent 10 years in London working in the same industry, he was thrilled when the Corinthia Group offered him the opportunity to become a pioneer in this area in Malta.

Michael is an avid traveller and as his job sees him taking little time off during the year, he takes a long holiday in January and February when it is quiet. At the top of his list of travel destinations is Asia – Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and he hopes to add Vietnam to that list early next year. This is the source of inspiration for many dishes he likes to cook – and eat. “I love the complexity of Asian food, their culture and love for eating. Though food is pretty cheap in Asia, the people have a great respect for quality ingredients so even if you buy something on the street, you can expect the ingredients to be fresh.” He uses this for inspiration in his job, seeking out the best of local ingredients and pairing them with interesting flavours from around the world. Menus are seasonal and change regularly. “Keeping ingredients local and seasonal not only helps local farmers but also allows us to keep our menus innovative and prices reasonable.” Visit catermax.com for more information.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMES BIANCHI

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THAI RED SNAPPER IN COCONUT BROTH Serves 2 Ingredients • 4 tbsp sesame oil • 1-inch fresh ginger, trimmed and crushed • 1 shallot, finely chopped • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped • 1 lemongrass stalk, trimmed, bruised • ½ tsp ground turmeric • 2 lime leaves • ½ long green red chilli, thinly sliced • ½ long green yellow chilli, thinly sliced • 1 tbsp fish sauce • ½ tbsp Thai red curry paste • 200ml coconut milk • 2 x 180g red snapper fillets, skin on • Handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped • 100g mange tout • 150g brown beech mushrooms (or similar style of mushrooms) • 4 tbsp soy sauce • 150g dried rice noodles • 2 lime wedges Method 1. Heat 2 tbsp sesame oil in large saucepan over high heat.

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

Remove see t he chilli fo ds f rom r less heat

Add fresh ginger, shallot, garlic, red and yellow chilli, curry paste, lemongrass and turmeric. Cook, stirring regularly until shallot, garlic and ginger has softened. Stir in coconut milk, fish sauce, lime leaves and ½ cup cold water. Bring to the boil. Add the fresh red snapper fillets with skin on as otherwise, the fish will flake into the sauce. Reduce heat to mediumlow. Stir the sauce gently and cover the red snapper with coconut infused broth until fish is just cooked. Add fresh coriander, reserving some for garnish. Place noodles in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water for approximately 5 minutes or until tender. Drain. Meanwhile, in a separate wok or medium pan, add the remaining sesame oil and soy sauce on high heat. Stir fry the mange tout and beech mushrooms until just tender, approx. 1 min. Divide and place the cooked rice noodles in the bottom of the bowls and gradually add the coconut infusion on the noodles until you have a bed of broth in the bowl. Place the poached red snapper fillet (skin down) on the noodles. Add your mange tout and beech mushrooms on the side and gradually add more sauce on the fish. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves and lime wedge.

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J’Adore

A classic French

love affair

Malta: Attard & Co. Food Ltd - Tel: 21 237555 • Gozo: Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd - Tel: 21 563231 • facebook.com/attardcofood

HOMECOOKS

CHI

Y: JAMES BIAN

PHOTOGRAPH

HOMECOOKS

Once the weather gets a bit cooler we welcome back a little bit of spice into our cooking. Our homecooks give a some local ingredients an Asian twist for some warming autumn dishes. Gaby Holland starts off the meal with a crispy coconut prawn starter, served with turmeric yoghurt and roasted pumpkin. For mains Nick Formosa give a local rabbit a bit of a kick, turning it into a madras curry. Pascal Holland rounds off the meal with a pistachio crĂ¨me brulĂŠe.

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LES BRETÈCHES BLANC Chateau Kefraya This Lebanese Muscat à Petits Grains is a noble grape variety planted in the Bekaa Valley that expresses the Lebanese terroir. With a nose of white flowers, Les Bretèches combines intense refreshing notes of exotic fruits and citrus on the palat

It is best to use fresh prawns you can get good quality– frozen prawns too wit h tail on

HOMECOOKS CRISPY COCONUT PRAWNS Serves 4 Ingredients • 12 or 16 prawns, peeled (tails left on), deveined • 2 large eggs • 1 cup shredded coconut • ½ cup panko breadcrumbs • ½ cup plain ﬂour • 1 tsp curry powder • 1 tsp turmeric • ½ tsp paprkia (optional) • Few sprigs of fresh coriander, to garnish • Salt and freshly ground black pepper Pumpkin base • 500g pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes • Olive oil • 1 leek, cut into strips • 4 cloves garlic, in their skins (to use in yoghurt sauce) • 2 tsp cumin • Salt and pepper Yoghurt sauce • 1 cup Greek yoghurt • ½ cup plain yoghurt • Roasted garlic, mashed

• • •

1 tsp turmeric 1 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper

Method 1. To make the pumpkin base, place pumpkin and garlic on baking tray, season generously with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil and scatter cumin seeds over all. 2. Bake in hot (oven 220°C) for 20 mins, add the leeks and bake for a further 15 mins or until pumpkin is slightly charred. 3. Reserve the garlic for the yoghurt sauce, and set pumpkin aside. 4. To make the yoghurt sauce, combine all ingredients and mix well. 5. To make the batter for the prawns, beat the eggs in a small bowl and set aside. 6. Combine breadcrumbs and coconut in another bowl and set aside. 7. Combine flour and spices in a third bowl. 8. Dip prawns in small batches in the flour mixture then the egg mixture

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

(letting the excess drip off) and then coat in the coconut/breadcrumb mixture, making sure they get well coated. Place the prawns side by side on a greased baking sheet in a single layer. Lightly spray with non-stick spray or drizzle with oil. Bake for 15 mins then flip them half way through cooking. They should look golden brown by then. Serve immediately with roasted pumpkin and yoghurt dipping sauce. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves. Dip avocado slices in flour mixture, lightly coating all sides. Dip again in egg and once more in panko bread crumbs. Gently fry for 30-50 seconds on each side before turning over. Colour should be golden brown. Once done, place on a rack or kitchen towel to drain. Serve immediately with dipping sauces.

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1865 SYRAH Vina San Pedro This is a complex wine with great structure and a rich and oily body, with lots of fruit, a good balance and good acidity, which lead to a slightly smoked finish, which is both lengthy and persistent. It also displays ripe and smooth tannins that grant the wine with roundness.

RABBIT MADRAS Ingredients • 1 rabbit, chopped • 4 garlic, chopped • 2 tbsp kunserva • 2 tubs plain yoghurt • 2 bay leaves • 2 tsp turmeric • 2 tsp ground ginger • 2 tsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp cardamom pods • 2 tsp mustard seed • 1 tsp Madras curry powder or paste • 2 tsp garam masala • 2 onions • 1 large thumb-sized fresh ginger • 250ml chicken stock • 1 chilli (preferably dried) • Fresh coriander • Basmati mixed with wild rice • Cumin seeds • Almond ﬂakes Method 1. Mix together a dry rub for the rabbit with ground ginger, turmeric, salt and pepper. 2. Massage into the rabbit and leave to marinade for a few hours. 3. In a large pot or wok, gently fry cumin seeds, cardamon pods, mustard seeds, bay leaves and 56 www.gourmettoday.recipes

4. 5.

chilli in oil. Be careful that the spices don’t burn. After a few mins, add the rabbit to brown. Once browned, lower the heat and add the kunserva, onions, fresh ginger and garlic along with the Madras and garam masala powders. Once the onions are looking translucent add the chicken stock, cover and let simmer for about an hour and a half or until

meat falls off the bone. Add salt and pepper if necessary and more chill should you want it spicy. 8. Add the yoghurt into the curry before serving. 9. Boil the rice according to pack instructions. 10. Toast the almond flakes and cumin seeds and pour over the rice before serving. 11. Use the fresh coriander and yoghurt to garnish. 7.

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PISTACHIO CRÈME BRÛLÉE Ingredients • 6 eggs • 6 tbsp sugar • More granulated sugar to top • 2 tbsp vanilla powder • 2½ cups heavy cream • 2 tbsp pistachio paste Method 1. Pre-heat oven to 150°C. 2. Separate yolks and in a bowl combine with sugar, pistachio paste and vanilla powder. Stir until mixture is creamy. 3. Pour heavy cream into a saucepan on low heat and heat until almost boiling. 4. Remove and stir into the egg yolks mixture. Beat until combined. 5. Pour into ramekins and place into a large cake pan or roasting pan. 6. Pour enough water into the pan so that is reaches half way up the sides of the ramekins. 7. Bake for 40 to 45 mins until crème brûlée is set but still wobbly in the centre.

8. 9.

Refrigerate for a minimum of two hours. Pour granulated sugar over the top, making sure it is spread evenly.

10. With a blow torch carefully melt the sugar until golden brown. 11. Allow to settle for 5 mins and serve.

www.gourmettoday.recipes 59

a lit y

Definitive(ly) Good Guide

CHEF OF THE MONTH mber

MARK CAUCHI Head chef at one80 Kitchen & Lounge

e t p e S

Did you always want to be a chef? I was involved in a family-run, small accommodation and restaurant property at a very young age; it all started from there. How did your career progress to bring you to one80? I worked in a number of locally renowned hotels in different ranks within the food preparation and production areas. For a number of years I was the right-hand man of a renowned local chef, where I developed my skills into the cuisine style I practice today at one80. Which celebrity chef has most inspired you in the kitchen? During my development years, I very much followed Chef Marco Pierre White and admired his skills and plating execution. Which is your favourite country for eating? Definitely Italy, I also make it a point to frequent food stalls and markets in whichever country or city I visit. Who is the most famous person you have ever cooked for? I cooked for Jose Mourinho in a hotel restaurant where I was under my apprenticeship, around 12 years ago.

There are a number of other well-known international and local personalities, many of whom I have served within my capacity as one80’s head chef. What is your favourite ingredient to work with? Local prawns – the flavour amazes me and there are so many dishes a chef can prepare with this item. Is there a particular ingredient you do not personally like? Although I need to use it at times, I don’t fancy using cucumber. I just don’t particularly like the taste or texture of it. After food what are your other passions? I love unwinding in the countryside and farming, away from it all, during which time I get inspired for any upcoming menus. I also love fishing.

start to cook for others. One needs to be fully committed and possess a natural sense of passion towards food. What is your food philosophy? Simplicity, freshness, flavour, local ingredients. What was your favourite dish as a child? Maccheroni and cheese, I wouldn’t mind treating myself to this dish every once in a while even now.

one80 Kitchen & Lounge 30, Triq il-Wied ta’ Ruman, Mellieha Tel: 21521637 Facebook: one80kitchenlounge

What advice would you give to someone who aspires to be a chef? Primarily, cook for yourself before you

Win a meal for two at one80 Kitchen & Lounge with the Deﬁnitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today. Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at these restaurants.

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Competition ends 31 October, 2017. The winner will be randomly selected.Terms and conditions apply.

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Definitive(ly) Good Guide CHARLES PRECA TAL-FAMILJA

CHEF OF THE MONTHer

Oct ob

Who is the most famous person you have ever cooked for? Alex Ferguson, Robert Plant of Led Zeppelin and Engelbert Humperdinck.

Did you always want to be a chef? If I had not followed this career I’m sure I would have chosen to be a priest since when I was younger I was part of the St Francis church choir for around 8-10 years. Who knows? Maybe my name would have been Fr Charles! What made you decide to become a chef? I applied to follow a bartender course at polytechnic. As ITS does these days, the school used to send the students on apprenticeships to hotels and mine was at the Le Roy Hotel in QuiSi-Sana where I was trained by an Austrian chef for three years. That was the turning point for me. I always wanted to own my own business. I loved the bar so when I was looking for a new venture I started off at the King’s Own Band Club in Valletta. With no money in my pockets I started off with the bar which I expanded with my knowledge from the hotel into a successful business. How did your career progress to bring you to your present position and what are your plans for the future? I owned the King’s Own for 20 years, in which time I never took a day off or sick. This paved the way to having my own restaurant. Today we have Tal-Familja restaurant, which I have owned for 21 years and my daughters are following in my footsteps. Daniela, the eldest, is front of house at Tal-Familja, Yana and Ramona run Palazzo Preca in Valletta and Roberta, together with Carla runs the former King’s Own in Valletta.

Vote for the Chef of the Month

The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to What is your favourite ingredient Restaurants to work with? Chef of Fresh locally grown herbs the Month like marjoram, basil, rosemary Competition and mint and other fresh local supported by The Catering Centre and Gourmet Today products. aims to recognise the chefs who make the restaurant the success that it is. Is there a particular ingredient The top 150 restaurants as voted you do not personally like? into The Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Yes it would definitely be fresh coriander, Restaurants in last year’s survey were second cumin and third chillies. asked to nominate their chefs for the What advice would you give to someone who Chef of the Month Competition. Each month two chefs are featured on www. aspires to be a chef? restaurantsmalta.com and diners are My advice is you have to have love and passion asked to vote for who they think is for food, commit yourself and your life to the best based on presentation of the spending a lot of time in the kitchen. In other food, variety of ingredients used and words your life will be in the kitchen, especially creativity in their use. if you own a restaurant. To be able to vote for your favourite chef sign up by registering on What was your favourite dish as a child? www.restaurantsmalta.com. My mother’s spaghetti bolognese with peas and yes it is still my favourite even though it might have changed slightly in taste since my mum doesn’t make it for me anymore. Do you have a signature dish? Our famous aljotta which everyone loves at Tal-Familja. Tal-Familja Triq il-Gardiel, Marsaskala Tel: 27632161 Facebook: talfamiljarestaurant

Win a meal for two at Tal-Familja with the Deﬁnitive(ly) Good Guide and Gourmet Today. Like the Gourmet Today Facebook page and let us know why you would like to eat at these restaurants. Competition ends 31October, 2017.

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OCTOBER 2017

RECIPE INDEX SAVOURY Ravioli in saffron butter

Tagliatelle with orange and bottarga

Penne with chicken livers

Imqarrun fil-forn

Spaghetti with anchovies

Spaghetti with calamari, beans and olives

Stuffed butternut squash

Thai red snapper

Crispy coconut prawns

Rabbit madras

SWEET Biskuttini tal-maghmudija

Jammy dodgers

Shortbread

Melting moments

Ottijiet

Pistachio crĂ¨me pistachio