Brand profile My precious Henry Jullien Interview StĂŠphane Emeric (OPAL) Trends Futuristic mask glasses Lenses & Technology Hoya
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SUMMARY
What’s on in Europe
061612
Brand profile Henry Jullien
Interview Stéphane Emeric
22 2024 28
Focus Looks from the North
36 40
In Detail ProDesign
Nordic Mood
Shows & Fairs
News
European Lenses & Technology
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Trends Mask
EDITOR’S COMMENT
A NEW MAGAZINE FOR A NEW MARKET Stefano Ampollini t
Editor in chief
t
s.ampollini@fgeditore.it
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WHAT ’S ON IN EUROPE
Coppery brown walnut, golden cherry wood and warm black acacia are the natural colors of Alto Adige wood you can find in the new Alanya model
WOODONE Inspired by nature
WooDone eyewear are carved from wood and, just like the people that own them, ref lect all of the uniqueness of the material from which they are made. Every model of the Alto Adige brand of wooden eyewear, designed by Thomas Oberegger and Klaus Tavella, is carved from a single panel composed of eight layers of chipboard, obtained from recycled tree materials with certified origins from Alto Adige. The glasses – which can feature both prescription and sun lenses – are not colored, since the simple beauty of wood is highlighted by the special lacquer used for their finishing and which makes them resistant, environmentally friendly and anallergic. The new collection, presented at Silmo, includes Alanya, a soft and feminine model made in the natural colors of Alto Adige wood: coppery brown walnut, golden cherry wood and warm black acacia. Alanya is a tribute to nature, its name is a Celtic word meaning “friendly, stately". The spring hinge offers a comfortable fit of the glasses, and an unique elastic functionality. 6
WHAT ’S ON IN EUROPE
ROLF SPECTACLES
BLACKFIN
Made of stone
The (zero) weight of titanium
Those who preferred a fighting bull instead of a jumping horse, found what they’ve been dreaming of in the Italian sport car, which was the inspiration for the ROLF designer Mary for the stone model ISLERO. The color of shale can vary from greenish, blue grey, and black grey through to yellowish, red and purple. Shale rocks are mined around the world in various countries; in Europe first of all in Spain, France, the UK, Germany and Portugal. ROLF Spectacles is always looking for new materials that fit in with the company’s philosophy. This is where the idea to combine wood with stone came from. As a young, innovative company, ROLF Spectacles is always looking for new technology, aims to set trends and distinguish itself through its uniqueness. The ROLF stone collection represents the uniqueness of their current designs.
Blackfin Zero is the definition that emphasizes the strong ultralight character of Blackfin eyewear collection. There are three new models in beta-titanium, two for men, the bold square-shaped BF700 Mackay and BF701 Galway, and one for women with a slightly cats-eye top rim, BF702 Bantry. All three new models have the innovative features of the Zero Edge range, weighing-in at only 4.1 grams, they encompass the very best of Blackfin technology. What makes these three frames different is the brand new palette of colors that sets a whole new fashion trend.
MODO Stylish and eco-friendly
OKO BY OKO For business people
MODO launches Eco Born Biobased, a stylish eco-friendly line made of 63% bio-based materials. An expansion of MODO’s Eco 2.0 line, the frames are made from castor seeds, a highly sustainable plant that grows up to 15’ in height after a few months. Lightweight and f lexible, the Biobased styles feature classic colors and vibrant hues. The collection, which is a result of a three yearlong collaboration with a French chemical company, boasts six styles with six color choices ranging from a classic black to teal. In addition to using bio-based materials to create the frames, the collection is packaged in an envelope made of recycled materials. Customers are able to donate their unwanted frames to charities that help people with poor vision in developing areas of the world. Included in the packaging is the “Look Good, Feel Good, Do Good” brochure that details MODO’s sustainability initiatives. The case, which is made of recycled fabric from soda bottles, folds f lat to reduce the carbon footprint during shipping.
OKO by OKO Paris presents its new acetate optical collection called BIZ for the business men and business women followers of elegance and style. Made in acetate – whose sheets are personally and exclusively chosen by David Beddok, Head of Design for the brand OKO by OKO Paris – the frames are duotone inside/outside which confers a double personality from classical/wise up to fun and extravagant. OKO by OKO doesn't stop to surprise through its creations always more innovative, its designs always wilder and its colors combinations always more caustic. To better answer to masculine and feminine demands, the BIZ collection is available in six different models and shapes. BIZ 1 – for man (4 colors), BIZ 2 – for man (4 colors), BIZ 3 – for woman (6 colors), BIZ 4 – for woman (4 colors), BIZ 5 – for woman (6 colors) and BIZ 6 – for man (4 colors). 7
WHAT ’S ON IN EUROPE
OGI EYEWEAR The importance of details
Ogi Eyewear presents its innovative take on metal frames with their new handcrafted stainless steel styles. This material gives each frame a durable, lightweight feel, with f lattering designer details that portray exquisite character. The essence of rich organic patterns such as wood, marble and leather, are set f lush within the metal frame, creating a slim structure that is nearly weightless on the face. The Ogi 4301 is an elegant round frame with delicate details. With the signature lightweight feel, Ogi adds in exquisite designer touches including the hairline metal rim around the front and temples as well as the diamond shaped accents.
ITALIA INDEPENDENT Unique edition for Pol Espargaró
At the end of November took place the official presentation, in Barcelona’s Hotel Omm, of the “Unique Edition for Pol Espargaró” by Italia Independent, the rider’s current sponsor. The event, which was attended by Lapo Elkann, Chairman of Italia Independent Group and Pol Espargaró, current Moto2 World Champion, was held to mark the launch of the new glasses which are the result of the motorcyclist’s collaboration with Italia Independent, first as brand ambassador in the 2013 Moto2 World Championship and from now in MotoGP. The company has created a line of glasses developed on the basis of its most popular model, the 090, using the vast experience with tailor-made products it has built up over the years. The “Unique Edition for Pol Espargaró” is the first line produced by Italia Independent for a sportsman on an individual basis, and the rider was actively involved in defining the project from the initial phases. The color and design used for the glasses were inspired by his logo, his nickname and his racing number, 44, which stands out inside the temples, symmetrical with the Italia Independent logo. The glasses feature a “to touch” effect finish, with bright blue mirror lenses. Inside the left temple is the legend “Unique Edition for Pol Espargaró”, complementing the personalisation of the product. All pairs will carry the number 44, which Pol has nearly always used, and his nickname Polyccio engraved on the inside of the temples.
VOLTE FACE Brilliance Retro
For the new season, Volte Face wears women with elegant frames that are more fashionable than ever before. Inspired by the jewellery tradition, the new models remain faithful to the brand’s design codes, such as precision finishing, unusual combinations, exquisite detailing, sculptural forms, sublime materials and astonishing surface effects. With an attention to style, the collection earns its “fashion” status, using colorful and very mixed variations on generously feminine forms and total sophistication. Made entirely in France, this eyewear collection is a tribute to the great French eyewear tradition, cleverly designed by Fabienne Coudray-Meisel. Following on from the success of the GUAX line, well known for its undulation effects, three new concepts – called Betsy, Blum and Berny – have been added to the collection. The f lowing lines are improvised on the material with a highly distinctive rendering obtained through diamond etching. The result is a combination of the brilliance of the acetates with a “retro” style. 8
WHAT ’S ON IN EUROPE
SO SOON New manufacturing division
So Soon, the design and consulting agency specializing in the eyewear industry founded by Italian designer Matteo Livans, whose portfolio includes works for brands as Armani and Hugo Boss, announces the opening of the Manufacturing Division. Aimed to provide small and large clients with the highest quality frames and sunglasses made on their behalf, So Soon will be a reference point for the Made in Italy eyewear production. “So Soon has set strategic alliances with the finest premium factories and independent workshops located in Italy and mostly unknown to the mass, way we’re able to turnkey supply the 100% Italian handmade eyewear that best meets each specific need whilst providing our clients with our expertise in design and marketing”, Livans said. Ranging acetate to metals and injection, So Soon can produce everything from customized molded parts to bespoke limited editions and complete frames collections. The capabilities cover the entire cycle from design and development to prototyping and fully certified products, using exclusively the finest Italian materials and employing only local personnel.
RODENSTOCK Brand new collection by Claudia Schiffer presented at opti
Rodenstock, Germany’s leading manufacturer of lenses and optical frames announces its first eyewear collection with supermodel and fashion icon Claudia Schiffer this month. The collection “Claudia Schiffer by Rodenstock ” features sunglasses and optical frames for women. All eyewear models are going to be presented at the opti trade fair in Munich. Oliver Kastalio, CEO Rodenstock Group, comments: “It is a great honour to collaborate with the iconic supermodel Claudia Schiffer. Her impressive career has left an indelible mark in the world of fashion and beauty with her timeless style inspiring women of all ages. Claudia Schiffer's experience and elegance are the perfect match for Rodenstock." Claudia Schiffer adds: “I grew up with Rodenstock being the pinnacle of quality in sunglasses and lenses. Therefore they are the perfect partner and I can't wait for the world to see why I chose them. Combining my design ideas and their eyewear expertise I am proud of the collection we have created together." The “Claudia Schiffer by Rodenstock" collection is rolling out globally at selected opticians and retailers. 10
BRAND PROFILE
MY PRECIOUS HENRY JULLIEN By Isabel Pereira Pictures by Henry Jullien
World expert in the production of rolled gold filled frames, and one of its last players on the market, the brand is always and everywhere recognized for quality. Pierre Fauveau, the actual President of the company, proudly reminds the highlights of his grandfather top luxury “lunetier” and of his present team
Pierre Fauveau, the present President of Henry Jullien, an eyewear company founded in 1921 by his grandfather in Lons-le-Saunier, France, without doubt one of the top luxury “lunetier” names
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BRAND PROFILE
“Gold plated frames are less qualitative as gold doesn’t remain on the frame after having being worn during several months”, explains Pierre Fauveau
Quality has always been very important for Henry Jullien, as it is really the key and the origin of the success of the brand. The inheritance of Mr. Henry Jullien since 1921 has given strength to the French brand to go through fashion evolutions and crisis even if that meant less profit. Gold filled frames, stainless steel and Sandvik nanof lex products they all demand the same level of quality, only possible within an integrated production. Pierre Fauveau, the actual President, reminds the unique process that supports the concept that until today attracts so many people. “After some 300 extremely delicate operations for a gold filled frame, the hallmark stamped on each frame is a guarantee of the quality of the rolled gold filled and of the expertise of the Henry Jullien brand. This is now unique in the world. Some of our customers come back after 10 years with their frame and ask the optician the same quality because they are very satisfied with this one”.
day. “A visit to the workshops reveals an approach to production very much in line with the traditions of the watchmaking industry, a mastery of the production process, with meticulous attention to detail, a quest for perfection in frames”, says proudly Pierre Fauveau. Aside from France, the present management team is trying to develop the brand worldwide, fighting for a place in the world. “We work very closely with partners, and the key of the success remains in the confidence they have to sell our products”, says the president, even though “when you work with an integrated production such as ours, it is easier to master the quality level, but it is far more complicated when you work with sub-contractors”, he adds. As a family company, and unlikely to big groups, Henry Jullien never had a selective distribution strategy. The brand has always wanted to be “affordable” for those who wanted to sell it. As a consequence, the brand works with several types of optical partners. “Our aim is to satisfy them in terms of quality and After Sales Service”, witness Pierre Fauveau. The brand recently received a prize for quality from the CDO group in France, which gives confidence to the consumer.
Top luxury “lunetier” fighting for a place in the world Operating to the world from Lons-le-Saunier, Jura, France, Henry Jullien best market is still the internal one, “due to the massive BtoC communication campaigns developed by the brand in the 90’s in France, leading to a strong notoriety of the brand on this territory”, recalls Pierre Fauveau. Searched mainly by women, intellectual and associate professionals, with more than 40 years old, that look for high quality products, sobriety and understatement, Henry Jullien brand distinguishes itself by being a top luxury “lunetier” name that struggles to maintain alive the long-established know-how of the brand every single
Adapting and conquering the market needs Since the 90’s, Henry Jullien put side by side the production of gold fi lled frames and a second product line in stainless steel and Sandvik nanoflex aimed at people looking for lightness and sobriety, called “Les Contemporaines”. And for its 90th birthday, in 2011, Henry Jullien decided to enlarge its target by introducing a third product line called “Les Urbaines” with new materials such
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BRAND PROFILE
as acetate or carbon fiber. “This allowed us to catch a younger clientele, more urban and trendy, as elegance, understatement and sobriety remain the guidelines of the brand”, defines Pierre Fauveau. Fitting the market needs in terms of design, is still a challenge every year to start conceiving a new collection at the right time. “It’s not easy because, considering that we have only one year between the first drawing and the delivery of a model, we must be extremely reactive”, point out President Fauveau. That’s why designer Olivier Mollard always keeps in touch with trends in design, fashion or architecture. Pierre Fauveau assures that “he can be inspired by any kind of detail in life that me or you wouldn’t even notice”. The bestsellers at Henry Jullien’s are Equinox and Karma. Described by the President of the company, “the fi rst acetate collection Equinox (2011) combined elements of both metal and acetate recalling the heart of the manufacturing craft of Henry Jullien. The Karma collection (2013) based on a similar structure, unveils both male and female models with acetate fronts and metal temples”. Selling expensive frames Worried with the present state of the country, Pierre Fauveau knows that his success depends on the sell out in optical shops. Today, sales staff is more reluctant to sell expensive frames and it’s very important for Henry Jullien brand to train them for this. “They should have no fear to sell high end products”, says Fauveau, “but, they do indeed have to argue and explain the philosophy of the brand”. Success only comes with hard and quality work, and Henry Jullien knows it since almost 100 years.
"TODAY, OUR KEY OF SUCCESS IS THE SELL OUT IN OPTICAL SHOPS”, CONFESSES PIERRE FAUVEAU
Henry Jullien took an original course at the end of the 70’s, when the price of gold suddenly increased, pursuing its quest for perfection by continuing the production of gold filled frames, for which it remains the world's expert today, in spite of all the technical and financial constraints involved in this very noble process
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INTERVIEW
STÉPHANE
EMERIC The designer started to work the ELEVENPARIS collection, released by OPAL, at the beginning of 2013, always involved with all the steps of production. He’s curious, observer of anonymous users of glasses and a big fan of "less is more" like Ludwig Mies van der Rohe
By Isabel Pereira Pictures by Stéphane Emeric
I CERTAINLY WAS NOT THE ONLY ONE TO DRAW THIS NEW COLLECTION Designer of the ELEVENPARIS collection, released by OPAL, the French Stéphane Emeric shares his actual state of mind, a few days from the release of a “truly eclectic collection”, he says
soak up its DNA before starting the first sketches. The fact that we’re talking about ELEVENPARIS make my work rather easy because, as you can imagine, this is a very dynamic creative brand, always boiling and the ideal in terms of inspiration for a designer.
The collection is going to be released this January. How is your heart and soul dealing with this imminence? I am of course, like all the OPAL team, especially those who worked closely with me, very excited and anxious with the launch of this new collection. I am very pleased with the entire collection and I look forward to the reaction of our customers and consumers. Even if we have good reasons to believe that the launch will be a success for OPAL, there is always an element of concern.
Who was your team during the creation moment? We are today a team of four designers at OPAL. Tiffany and Rémi, the last ones to arrive, are two young talented designers with some years of experience in the optical sector. Sophie is the one with more experience, already at OPAL 10 years ago, and myself here since 2010. There is no competition between us. On the contrary, we share a lot our ideas about our own projects. I certainly was not the only one to draw this new collection. And I also worked with Anne from ELEVENPARIS. She is the person in charge for the collection assignment to this brand. We have developed together the collection plan, defined the brand target,
I'm sure it was a challenge to design this first ELEVENPARIS collection. The launch of a new collection is always a challenge. We must start from a white sheet, meet the new brand and 16
INTERVIEW
A typical day at work with StĂŠphane Emeric "Usually, I start working when I arrive at the office and the first thing I do is to read my e-mails about ongoing projects while drinking some coffee! During the day I divide myself between checking technical drawings of suppliers, validation of prototypes newly received, reflection on the preparation of drawings, the choice of colors and materials for future projects. We manage many different projects at the same time, most in various stages of development and related with several brands. Our department does not have the reputation of being the best ranked in the company!"
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"I love the fact that each frame has one same signature, even if it’s treated differently, and that every model tells the same story. The ideal is to recognize the brand before reading the logo", says Stéphane Emeric
STÉPHANE EMERIC NEVER FORGETS HIS TEAM MATES AT OPAL AND ELEVENPARIS AS WELL AS THEIR SUPPORT DURING THIS LAST YEAR OF WORK number of models and type of materials used. What differentiates a designer at OPAL is that we support all stages monitoring from the development to commercialization. Designers know their suppliers well. We often encounter, visit factories, we know their qualities and choose according to their “savoir faire”. This is obviously very interesting and rewarding in a personal way because I was able to follow our products all these steps. This direct relationship between the designer and the brand, and the designer with suppliers can improve efficiency, there is no loss of information because of sometimes unnecessary intermediaries.
The obvious question: being a designer and a creative person, what did inspire you to create this collection? Family, kids in particularly, or your passions? Everything is or can be a source of inspiration when you are a designer. Obviously our experiences (which include our loved ones, our passions, our personal tastes) inf luences our designs. But ideas can come from anywhere at anytime. In the subway, on the terrace of a cafe and even during the night! Which designer was never wake up in the middle of the night to write an idea? We observe a lot at all the time. Curiosity is not a weakness but a quality on this job. I often find myself watching too long unknown users of glasses in the street or in means of transport, which can sometimes be annoying!
What would you say was the best and the worst moments of this process? Oddly the worst and best moments are often the same, like those days when we receive the first pieces from our suppliers and we can make sure that our ideas and models are, or not, well synced with our expectations in terms of product (shapes, volumes...). In most cases, satisfaction “rules” and we even got surprised. But we can also come across with a misunderstanding with the supplier or with a prototype that proves that my ideas were not that good. At that point, if it happens, it often doesn’t give us too much time to react. But there have been many more good moments lately and happily! I prefer it like that.
Which are your favourite line and model and why? As a creative designer, my favourite line is definitely “life is a joke”. Under this concept, I was able to dare and "f ly" a little more, considering the same theme on the brand clothing. Because it’s such a pleasure for a designer to be able to push a little! Personally I’m more attracted to the “la collection”, specially the male model with the metal branches and the front acetate. I find the female model of this line also very successful, it was a nice surprise and the colored shades are wonderful. But I would not be surprised if the best sellers are on the “le basic” line because the models are so easy! 18
1. Polaris 2. Nine 3. Kilsgaard 4. Lindberg 5. ProDesign 6. Carlottas Village 7. Kilsgaard 8. Ă˜rgreen 9. Ă˜rgreen 10. Carlottas Village
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NORDIC MOOD Flowing and essential lines, artisan and artistic touch, minimalism with a deep attention on high-tech materials: the essence of Nordic style, a new concept to run eyewear market, carried out by small and innovative enterprises
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LOOKS FROM THE NORTH
Panton Chair, designed by Verner Panton, 1959/1960. Photo: Hans Hansen (ŠVitra). Courtesy Vitra.
By Alessandra Albarello
Form and function combine in the creations of Scandinavian glasses producers, influenced by a strong design culture that chose to express itself through the beauty of simplicity
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FOCUS
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he Danish term "Hygge", a practically untranslatable word that means a mix of warmth and comfort with a touch of liveliness, often corresponding to the unexpected or hidden use of color, expresses the meaning of Scandinavian design perfectly. With its f lowing and simple lines, contemporary Scandinavian design has always been an important benchmark for the entire world, an example used constantly by architects and designers as an inexhaustible source of inspiration. One of the main reasons for this is the fact that from the early 20th century, well ahead of its time, it followed principles and helped to spread values that are still extremely relevant today, such as the democratisation of objects (see the phenomenon that is Ikea), the importance of always giving products an artisan and artistic touch, care for the environment, and the celebration of materials and textures with traditional and natural production techniques. It is constantly searching for the perfect balance between form and function and between simplicity, accessibility and quality, aiming to make everyday life as enjoyable as possible. It is therefore certainly no coincidence that the slogan of the Svenska Slöjdföreningen (Swedish Society of Crafts and Design) was once “Vackare Vardagsvara” (Beautiful Everyday Goods). The frontrunners of ‘good design’, iconic designers such as Alvar Aalto, Arne Jacobsen and Verner Panton therefore passed on a vocabulary of pure beauty through furniture and accessories that are still being produced today, evergreen objects that are perfectly compatible with any contemporary environment, and which become the subtle yet unquestioned highlights of any space. Naturally, this culture also inf luenced Scandinavian eyewear designers, who already had the advantage of being brought up in a unique social and natural context. It should not be forgotten that in these places nature plays a part in forging people’s character, and its rhythms instil substantiality and practicality into
C1, designed by Verner Panton, 1959. Photo, courtesy Vitra (©Vitra)
people’s creativity, imposing nature’s ethical and aesthetic rules. Furthermore, at these latitudes the artistic language used by designers has the privilege of being able to draw freely on extraordinary sights: the magical iridescent Aurora Borealis, the crystallized landscapes that reveal forms and colors for only a few months of the year, and cold, cutting lights. This is a world of contrasts, which in the universe of glasses translates into models that are classic only at first glance; every so often a detail, almost entirely hidden, suddenly reveals the region’s underlying attitude to design, which has become a unique cultural reference, almost a trade mark. That’s why glasses like Lindberg’s suit the tastes of a wide-ranging and international public, and receive extremely important awards and recognition. This is not merely the result of their long-standing VIP ‘testimonial’ from Queen Margrethe II of Denmark, who has worn Lindberg glasses since 1987, inspiring the Danish company to make a model especially for her a few years ago, with temples that stop at the side of her head to allow her to take them off and put them back on again during official events. Despite being decidedly minimalist, aiming for lightness and the concept of ‘less is more’, Nordic eyewear companies are not afraid to employ high-tech materials. However, their expertise includes an understanding of the intrinsic value of the technology, which they dress in bare but universally recognisable forms, thus allowing pure and absolute beauty to emerge. In glasses this innovation is expressed through the use of precious, high-performance materials like titanium or natural materials like horn and wood, with extremely thin frames and in sophisticated color schemes. This also serves to reaffirm the concept that true contemporary luxury lies in simplicity.
Optical frame by Kilsgaard
Model by ProDesign
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Interview with Allan Rasmussen Chief Designer of ProDesign Denmark
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candinavian design and in particular Danish design (I just want to mention Arne Jacobsen and Verner Panton…) are world famous. As designer, how do you transfer this important heritage to your actual work? Allan Rasmussen: Our design heritage surrounds us all the time, it’s the same, no matter if you are Italian, French, German or Danish. In our industry each country has their own design expression. If you are living in a country with a strong design heritage, I believe that it would actually be very difficult not to follow this heritage to some extent, at least on a subconscious level. The typical Danish expression would be the understated look, and technically to make something very complex looking extremely simple. We would try to focus at one detail, and make that dominant, and support it with subdominant details, rather than giving it competition. Danish design is in particular known for furniture design from the 40’s to the 60’s. Today we still have really strong designers in interior design and architecture, but now also in the small scale products, like watches and jewelry design. I believe that these fields of design are more connected to eyewear, and that it would be easier to see similarities between our eyewear designs and Danish jewelry design, than
By Alessandra Albarello
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IN DETAIL
similarities to chairs and lamps from the 50`s. Actually, which are your most important sources of inspiration? AR: Our inspiration is mainly on a subconscious level, we see things and people in our everyday life, and we get inspired to mix these impressions with the general trends. We try not to take too much inspiration from objects, but if we do, it should be more on a technical level, than a certain look. It could be a way to combine wood and metal, seen on a door handle, or a surtain surface structure on a leather bag. However, most important inspiration in the ProDesign collection has always been the diversified faces and personalities we see. We do not design for us, we design for them. We want to dress their faces the best possible way to support their personal image. Actually we design many of our styles directly on top of pictures of faces, using them as a canvas. Due to this philosophy you will notice that ProDesign has a much wider design expression than most of the other design eyewear oriented companies.
Model 7624 winner of various international design prizes
WE WOULD TRY TO FOCUS ON ONE DETAIL, AND MAKE THAT DOMINANT, AND SUPPORT IT WITH SUBDOMINANT DETAILS, RATHER THAN GIVING IT COMPETITION
Which are the most particular features and trends of your new collections (materials, colors, shapes…)? AR: No doubt that surface structures are extremely important right now, it is not only about look anymore, but increasingly important how it feels. We are currently working a lot with reliefs, and with sanding. We also have huge success with our rubberized surfaces on metals for which we found a special formula that doesn’t wear of. Colors should be strong but without mixing too many – Color blocking is a clear trend. Mechanisms that supports the luxurious feeling will also be important, as this will support to justify a high position in the market. Eco sustainability and lifestyle are two important keywords for contemporary collections. Which is your design approach to these concepts? AR: Eco sustainability is important, but to be honest, more in other industries than ours. It still takes the weight of 500 eyewear frames to make a bicycle. Almost all our excess materials from production are recycled, no matter if it is acetate, titanium or aluminum. Acetate goes into toys production, titanium is recycled for other industries and aluminum is the most recyclable material in the world. To me, the use of wood and horn is more a matter of showing yourself as having an eco-lifestyle, than it is about saving the world. At the same time it is a fact that wood and horn frames are not very easy to handle if you want individual adjustment. In ProDesign we have won design awards both in the UK and in Australia, for a product made in biodegradable acetate, the look is just like wood, and so is the texture for the right feeling. We believe this is the way to go, if you want to combine the eco-look with a good individual adjustment.
come more from the outside than from the inside. Consolidation in our industry and the world economy are some of the key challenges. We are doing a lot of effort to support our customers through the crises with systems that benefit both parties, and right now we win a lot of market share from that. Design wise, we are very soon introducing a new rotation hinge with integrated flex, really a mechanism that supports the clean Danish design language with clean lines and absolutely no compromise. In the coming year we expect to build a lot of designs on this mechanism, while still remembering that this series is only one of the five very diversified and strong lifestyle segments we are making collections for.
What about the future challenges and projects of ProDesign? AR: We are an extremely well driven company now, and we have ideas for many years ahead. Right now the challenges 25
NORDIC MOOD
NORDIC KILSGAARD
EGO EYEWEAR
launches smaller, minimalist models
Impeccable craftsmanship and technical know-how
Kilsgaard is once again bringing eyewear design back to basics. The company has launched six new shapes and one new color. Urban, cool looking shapes; elemental, minimalist, tight. The details are in the details not shown. Models 55-60 are smaller than what has been seen the last few season. Not because Kilsgaard suddenly finds small shapes more trendy, says the company, but simply because this is what came from their hands when designing their best shot at the line F/W. kilsgaard-eyewear.com
The frames of the Peak Performance collection show the best components from the brand´s rich Scandinavian outdoor heritage and combine natural with functional materials. Impeccable craftsmanship and technical knowhow to create a collection which suits urban life. Functional and simple but yet attractive and innovative design. The eyewear have details from the sportsworld such as climbing and skiing. Natural materials and colors. With a sporty color detail, often found as color blocking on the temple. ego.se
LINDBERG
FLEYE
New colors for the 1000 Acetanium line
turns classical shapes into pieces of pop art
LINDBERG 1000 Acetanium frames combine the look, color and impact of acetate with the strength and lightness of titanium-reinforced temples. Comfort-wise, they provide the big advantage of a titanium bridge fitted with ergonomic silicone nose pads. They feature uncoated, premiumquality acetate (made of 80+% cotton), hand-finished and polished in no fewer than five stages for the most attractive appearance. LINDBERG is presenting new colors for the LINDBERG 1000 Acetanium product line at opti Munich. lindberg.com
Inspired by Andy Warhol and the colorful pop art movement, maestro of Danish eyewear design FLEYE now launches the POP collection. This collection takes classic eyewear shapes such as the legendary aviator and turns them into playful pieces of pop art. “These are glasses customizable to your clothes. The POP pieces give you many different looks to play with” says Annette Estø from FLEYE’s design team. She adds that the POP pieces have been designed also to create contrasts in material as well as color. The cylinder shaped temples is another graphic detail that underlines the playful touch of these glasses. Available as prescription glasses. fleye.dk
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SHOWCASE
TA S T E CARLOTTAS VILLAGE
POLARIS
Caribbean inspiration without excess details
presents the 9th generation of SPD frames
Carlottas Village started out in the eyewear business designing acetate frames 5 years ago. Last year they expanded their collection with a beta titanium line, a material that is perfectly complementary to the Scandinavian design tradition that they interpret into slick, lightweight frames with no excess details. “It is not hard to add detail”, designer Charlotte Leth says. “The real challenge lies in making design that can stand alone by the shape only. That’s what we try to achieve by working over and over with the line and curves in a shape.” The beauty is in the sharp cut emphasized by the luscious color settings that have become their brand icon. This time inspired by the rich, deep hues of the Caribbean environment. carlottasvillage.dk
As they say at the Swedish company Polaris, “We don´t make unique, individual glasses. We make glasses for unique, individual people”. This year’s launch is no exception to the basic idea, of keeping a pure and clean design. With the 9th generation of STAFFAN PREUTZ DESIGN frames there has been an increase to the number of color options, now available in both transparent and solid colors, as well as with pattern or glitter. All to create eyewear for individuals, a collection full of surprises and contrasts. polariseyewear.se
ØRGREEN
NINE EYEWEAR
explores the contradictions in everyone’s character
combines Beta Titanium and Transparent Polyamide
Ørgreen brings contrast and character to this season’s newest collection of upscale eyewear. Watch for eye-catching styles inspired by espionage, undercover agents, exotic dancers, rebels, singers and bon vivants. All the frames in this collection are made of Titanium, a precious metal in a superb quality designed to last. Colors are composed in an array of opposites, from strong to fragile, intense to tranquil, raw to refined, sweet to serious and audacious to understated. Including industrial hues fused with high-brow tones. orgreenoptics.com
By combining Scandinavian design with Japanese craftsmanship, nine eyewear has uncovered the recipe for a full rim frame that can be used with the thinnest lenses on the market and whose weight never exceeds 9 grams (hence its name – nine eyewear). The secret is Beta Titanium, a material that does not only provide hypoallergenic qualities but is also lightweight, f lexible and durable. In the latest of its three collections, nine eyewear has introduced another lightweight material, Transparent Polyamide, opening up a world of new design possibilities. nine-eyewear.dk
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SHOWS
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FAIRS
OPTI: FIRST HIGHLIGHT OF THE YEAR A
ll the key players in the optic market, plus exciting newcomers, are presenting their products and services in the four exhibition halls at the fairground Messe München during opti 2014, which takes place from 10th to 12nd January. Over the past few years, the international trade show for optics & design has established itself as an international premiere platform for major and smaller manufacturers, where visitors have the chance to examine and try out the products of more than 1,200 brands and to see what will be "hot" during the next 365 days. That’s why more than 23,000 trade visitors from Germany and abroad are looking to the fair to kick off the year. Because this event offers a full review of all that´s happening in optics & design: lenses, contact lenses and frames, technical equipment, shopfittings and interior design. “opti is the international market place where the trade visitors can find – in January, right at the start of the year – all that they need for the next 12 months of business,” explains Dieter Dohr, Ceo and President of GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH, the organizer of the show. The last opti featured 491 companies from 31 countries, and hosted 23,243 trade visitors from more than 70 countries. This year around 500 exhibitors are presenting their new products and innovations on 40,000 square metres of exhibition space. Interest will as usual be high in the opti boxes, where start-up companies present themselves to the international trade audience, often for the first time. This section has been extended to twelve boxes in 2014, up from eight boxes in 2013. Despite the extensive range on display at the show, opti is a compact and highly efficient forum for business, thanks to
The last opti featured 491 companies from 31 countries, and hosted 23,243 trade visitors from more than 70 countries
the clearly structured layout. Each hall has specific focuses and highlights. Gathered together in Hall C1 are established lifestyle brands and attractive collections. World premieres in lenses and contact lenses are regularly presented by the exhibitors in Halls C2 and C3, which is also the place where visitors can find the sections on technical equipment, precision tools and low vision. Trendsetters and trend scouts come together in Hall C4, where innovative and original design ideas can be reviewed. Also on show are shopfittings and interior design, focusing on perfect presentation of products for opticians. The opti forum in Hall C2 features each day of the show many leading speakers’ interdisciplinary presentations, which are simultaneously translated into English. The continuing-education programme is free of charge for all exhibitors and visitors attending the show. 28
SHOWS
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FAIRS
100% SUCCESS IN LONDON
1
00% Optical is a new international annual optical show that will be hold at ExCeL London in February, 16 – 18, 2014. Announced last February it has already generated over 5,000 registered visitors thanks to its special formula “four shows in one” that will create a positive visitor experience (Equipments & Machinery, Lenses & Care, Eyewear, Business Services). The show is set to take the lead on lenses. 100% Optical will feature cutting-edge technology and an extensive educational programme across the ophthalmic lens and contact lens sector. 100% Optical has also forged a partnership with the world renowned Royal College of Art to stage the all-new 100% Eyewear Design Competition. The finalists’ designs will be manufactured as prototypes and displayed in the "New Designers Gallery" at ExCeL in February, with the ultimate winner being announced on the 100% Optical main stage. Furthermore the Association of Optometrist and Moorfileds Hospital will curate an educational programme which will feature four keynote seminars each day, presented by 12 leading international experts from across the globe and the industry. The worldwide conference and exhibition for eyecare and eyewear are trade-only events which draw more than 30,000 eye care professionals each year
THE COMPLETE EVENT
I
nternational Vision Expo East will be hold in the renovated Javits Convention Center in New York, March 26-30, 2014 (Education: Mar. 26-30, Exhibition: Mar. 28-30). This year the show is giving attendee and exhibitors more access to each other by flanking either side the Medical & Scientific and Lens & Lens Processing Technology Pavilions with education and with the popularity of the Galleria. Buyers could source the latest off-the-runway collections for spring and summer, setting the stage for a stylish, sophisticated and cutting-edge shopping experience. The updated floor plan will span three levels, allowing eyecare professionals to compare and source the most products, trends and newest technologies in one place. The education program expands itself introducing the Global Contact Lens Forum, a two-day project which delivers the latest scientific content and business strategies through a partnership with the British Contact Lens Association. International Vision Expos, the worldwide conference and exhibition for eyecare and eyewear, are trade-only events which draw more than 30,000 eye care professionals each year.
100% Optical will feature cutting-edge technology and an extensive educational programme across the ophthalmic lens and contact lens sector
THE FAIR HAS ALREADY GENERATED OVER 5,000 REGISTERED VISITORS THANKS TO ITS FORMULA “FOUR SHOWS IN ONE” 30
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NEW RECORDS FOR HONG KONG OPTICAL FAIR Nearly 14,000 buyers attended the last exhibition. Emerging markets showed great potential but buyers from some mature markets also had a considerable increase
The 22nd edition of the Hong Kong Optical Fair will take place at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre from 5th to 7th November 2014
TWO NEW ZONES WERE ALSO LAUNCHED TO FACILITATE SOURCING: “3D & KIDS EYEWEAR” AND “READING GLASSES”
T
he 21st edition of the HKTDC Hong Kong Optical Fair, held in November 2013, welcomed nearly 14,000 buyers from around 100 countries and regions, up 8% from past year. Most of the overseas buyers came from the Chinese mainland, Taiwan, USA, Korea, Japan, Malaysia and Australia. “Buyers from a number of emerging markets increased significantly, including Egypt, South Africa, Indonesia, Vietnam and Mexico, showing the huge development potential of the emerging markets. On the other hand, buyers from mature markets like US, the Netherlands, and Spain had a considerable increase as well. It is also a testament to the Optical Fair’s position as a major sourcing platform for the global optical industry,” HKTDC Deputy Executive Director Benjamin Chau said. “Eyewear has become a part of fashion, which drives the demand for sunglasses and many manufacturers have invested significant effort in temple design. With the aging population trend, demand for reading glasses has also risen.” HKTDC organised 70 buying missions from 50 countries and regions, bringing over 3,800 major importers,
distributors and retailers to the fair. Among the participants are Australia’s Eyecare Plus, Czech Republic’s ARDIX spol. s r.o., France’s Visiance, Germany’s Brillen Rottler HmbH & Co KG, Malaysia’s Bolton Optical Sdn Bhd, New Zealand’s Pacific Eyewear, USA’s Society 43, Spain’s Opticas Tutusau and the Philippines’ Vision Express Optical Superstores, etc. A new record 700 exhibitors from 26 countries and regions took part in 2013 Optical Fair, including first comers from Israel, Macau, the Netherlands, New Zealand and Thailand. Two new zones were also launched to facilitate sourcing: “3D & Kids Eyewear” and “Reading Glasses”. HKTDC also organised a series of eyewear parades, buyer forums, seminars and networking receptions during the fair for visitors to expand their business networks. The “11th Hong Kong Optometric Conference” was held during the three-day exhibition, bearing the theme “Advanced Optometry Care”. The 22nd edition of the Hong Kong Optical Fair will take place at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre from 5th to 7th November 2014. 32
SHOWS
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FAIRS
MIDO: A STRATEGIC EXHIBITION PROPOSAL
N
owadays a successful fair must be a place of knowledge as well as an occasion for gaining and creating experience, for communicating and for visibility. Mido is moving in this direction by enhancing and improving its services for exhibitors and visitors. During the international eyewear exhibition, that will take place this year from March 1st to 3rd in the heart of the Fieramilano Rho-Pero pavilions, the representatives of the eyewear supply chain and the ideal partners for sectorrelated business will find, once again, a qualified meeting point. The attendance results of the 43rd edition in 2013 rewarded the fair’s efforts to create a system with all the players involved: visitors increased by 3%, approximately 60% of whom came from around forty countries. About 1.100 exhibitors from all over the world, representing 5
continents, gave the show an international f lavour. The 2014 edition reconfirms the strong points of previous editions: different product areas divided among the various pavilions, each of whom is dedicated to a specific segment. Mido Design Lab is now a pole of attraction for visitors who are more attentive to leading-edge design; the Fashion District is a unique space hosting the top players in the eyewear world. Technology is the absolute protagonist of Mido Tech, the exhibition dedicated to machinery, raw materials and components. The Asian Pavilion is the exclusive showcase for Asian manufacturers. The Lens Pavilion is where major Italian and foreign companies present a complete range of products. An important new development in 2013 was “A train to Mido”, a chartered Frecciarossa train from Rome that brought over 600 Italian opticians straight to the fair on Sunday. The free, same-day round-trip that also stopped in Florence and Bologna was a huge success, so that the organization has planned to offer the same service this year. Following its debut in 2013, the appointment with Out of Mido is confirmed as well. Last April, 16 Italian and foreign companies, for which design is a source of inspiration, took part to the event that aimed to target end-consumers in the creative context of Milan during the Fuorisalone of the Salone del Mobile, Milan’s international furnishing fair. During the 4 days of the event, over 100,000 people visited the area: many of them were from abroad, about 70%, and there was a significant number of visitors from Asia, the Unites States and South America, as well as many from Brazil. This successful debut will be followed in 2014 with a new and even more exclusive location. But that’s not all: another incredible Out of Mido development awaits all sector aficionados in June 2014.
In 2013 visitors increased by 3%, approximately 60% of whom came from around forty countries. 1.100 exhibitors from all over the world represented 5 continents
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TRENDS
MASK By Alessandra Albarello
F
uturistic, oversize and hybrid; mask glasses are back on the scene. This is a modern digression on a futuristic theme, a throwback to the 1960s and 1970s when Pierre Cardin came up with the idea of moon girls, projected in space like alien creatures with Plexiglas visors, whilst Courrèges designed plastic and vinyl clothing. The new masks are sophisticated, cult pieces of design that go beyond the boundaries of the imagination and the imaginary,
drawing on post-industrial and punkrock themes or taking inspiration from vintage ski masks. They narrate stories and encounters, like that of visionary stylist Bernhard Willhelm with Mykita, and Moncler with the musician Pharrell Williams. They feature intercultural and interstellar crossovers and superimpositions, creating accessories that are simultaneously significant and evanescent, defining a way of life as well as a style, almost becoming a 36
second skin, a second glance, a screen or barrier to place between you and the rest of the world. The frames are sometimes thin, almost invisible, and simple, supporting a giant lens or screen and thus highlighting its curvature and purity. A limited selection of bold, primary colours is used, predominantly white and black alongside red, blue or yellow, or shades that magically transform into f lashes of light and energy.
TRENDS
Michael Kors F/W 2013-2014
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TRENDS
NEW DIRECTIONS Futuristic, oversize and hybrid; mask glasses are back on the scene By Alessandra Albarello
01
02
Courrèges A re-edition of an iconic model designed by André Courrèges in the 1970s, this futuristic mask has a simple frame in white or black plastic with grey shaded lenses. Courrèges is marking his return to eyewear with a collection created in collaboration with Alain Mikli.
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Dior The Dior Solar model, with its various shades and f lashes of colour that illuminate and enliven the unique metal frame, was modelled with the Cruise 2014 collection. It is available in three colour combinations: pink/turquoise/ yellow, fuchsia/pink/yellow and pink/yellow/white.
03 05 07
TRENDS
Givenchy In the SGV17 model, designed by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, the thin metal bar on the front of the glasses is curved in a sculptural movement that continues unbroken to the temples. It is available in gold, black/gold and black with matching lenses.
04 06
Hoet Design Studio Following in the footsteps of her father (Patrick Hoet, the founder of Theo), Bieke Hoet has created Cabrio, an unusual glasses collection that blends a range of design elements, experiments with alternative materials and includes collaboration with some design firms. The Cabrio Firebird model is both a visor and sunglasses, and is made from plastic and synthetic leather.
08
Moncler featuring Pharrell Williams Moncler have bagged an exceptional guest designer. The musician, music producer and winner of three Grammy Awards Pharrell Williams has designed a range of glasses that includes this unisex model, with an acetate arm covered with a thin steel lamina.
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Just Cavalli The colored, protruding stripe that highlights the front of these glasses recalls a vintage ski mask. The JC569 model is made of twotoned acetate, with inscriptions and a logo on the temples creating a unique textured effect. Available in black/yellow, white/ blue and red/black.
KTZ for Linda Farrow Gallery This eyewear collection stems from an explosive partnership between Linda Farrow and KTZ (Kokon To Zai), a brand known for its cult shops in London and Paris where music and fashion go hand in hand. The KTZ8 mask, available in blue, red and camouflage colours, has a bold, thick frame, intensified by its geometric form.
Mykita & Bernhard Willhelm The hybrid mask named Sun Visor DaisukĂŠ was created by Mykita in collaboration with the enfant terrible of fashion, Bernhard Willhelm, a restless and visionary stylist, born in Germany but now living in Belgium.
NE WS 40
VIKTOR&ROLF Unexpected elegance and a retro-modern spirit: the new Viktor&Rolf Vision collection
AREA 98 Silk, flowers, precious stones: the unique style of COCO SONG
The famous Dutch designers Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren have seen their fi rst line of optical and sun glasses launched by Albin Paget Group at Silmo 2013. The eyewear collection is composed of 30 models for both Man and Woman ages 30-40, highlighting the elegant, distinguished and unconventional spirit of the brand. For this collection, Albin Paget Group played with pure and perfect eye-shapes and chic material association presenting combined frames with acetate front and metal temples for an unexpected elegance and a retro-modern spirit. Viktor&Rolf have opened their first shop at the beginning of the month, 370 street Saint-HonorĂŠ in Paris. The hand made in France models of Viktor&Rolf Vision collection will be proposed in shop between 185 and 240 euros. Regarding Optical Frames, there will be the famous frame VRP002 (first picture above) worn by Viktor and Rolf themselves which is a flagship frame of the collection. This is a thin and light acetate optical frame for men with a minimalist shape for a great style. Available in Black, Tortoise and chic Grey. Then comes the "Bow Limited Edition" sunglasses (VRP052), a unique and extravagant acetate frame (second picture above) created in collaboration with the two designers Viktor and Rolf, according to their inspiration for a fashion show. A buzz has already been generated by this Limited Edition with only 200 pieces all over the world! That will probably become soon a collector.
Fine materials allow COCO SONG to reinterpret the appeal of the Far East, a land full of fascinating mysteries, to introduce a line of six eyewear frames that exude exotic and attractive charm. Protagonist of the collection, the Black Blade: a limited edition eyewear designed by the expert hands of skilled artisans who created a unique work of art incorporating soft silk embellished by colored ferns. Small stylized dragons in metal adorn the interior and exterior sides of the temples. The dragon is a recurring element also in the Hell Bells model, leaning on delicate feathers. Turquoise, brown, green and black hues merge harmoniously in a color palette featuring softer new combinations. The use of gem stones makes these eyewear models jewels to be worn such as the For Last model, with its small dried f lowers accents, or the Roll Dream model, with its rainbow of opposing hues between the temples and the front boasting silk with different colors. Wake Up will awaken the desire to visit unexplored lands: the dehydrated leaves on the temples and on the top rim combine with the decoration both on the temples and on the bridge, in a succession of light and colors. Finally, First Love will be love at first sight: thanks to the tiny f lowers that adorn the front with a sophisticated cat-eye shape, details in contrasting hues, and temples embellished by metal insertions. Like all the COCO SONG models, this is a true masterpiece that can summon to mind timeless worlds and distant paradises.
albin-paget.com
area98.it
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GUCCI New men sporty-chic sunglasses and optical frames
IMMAGINE 98 Silicone and color: presenting shifters and spokes, new models from X-IDE
For Spring/Summer 2014 Gucci presents a new men’s sunglasses and optical frames collection, an innovative high-tech interpretation of an urban attitude with a sporty-chic style dedicated to the contemporary man. These new sunglasses and optical frames are a blend of classic allure, with their easy-to-wear square-shaped silhouette, and contemporary touch, thanks to the use of new materials, such as carbon fiber temples which are ultra-light and highly performing, ensuring the utmost in comfort. The impeccable quality of these styles is completed by the rubber tips on the end of the temples, allowing for a comfortable fit, and by the polarized lenses, which guarantee an excellent quality of vision and perfect colour perception. The Gucci logo on the lenses and on the temples, the web green-red-green stripe and the Diamante pattern on the inside of the temples are the iconic details underlining the distinctive DNA of these frames. The sunglasses are available in brown with bronze lenses, matt black with grey lenses, military green with brown shaded lenses, blue with grey lenses. The optical model is available in black, Havana, matt black and green. These sunglasses and optical frames are available at Gucci boutiques and selected highend opticians worldwide from January.
Once again X-IDE's brilliance takes the breath away. And once again it unveils cutting-edge models that will grab everyone's attention not only for the color and material research applied to them but above all for the technical expertise and processing that has gone into them. Shifters and Spokes are the two new models that stand out for their innovative temples in silicone, a hypoallergenic, breathable and biocompatible material that is also very pleasant to the touch. Shifters has a steel front, while Spokes has an acetate front to which a special varnish has been applied giving the frame an original and innovative "soft touch" effect. The silicone sheath applied to the temple provides an opportunity to explore one's creativity and customizes each model. Indeed, by twisting it you can change both the color and shape of the temple. This makes it possible to create different color effects and, in fact, the same frame can boast multiple colors: the external color of the sheath, the internal color, alternating and multicolor effects by twisting the sheath for a fun candy-stick look. With the emphasis always on vibrant, fun hues. As is the X-IDE tradition. To be “eye-catching� every day, with every look. X-IDE glasses are produced by Immagine98.
gucci.com - Ph 0800 7234 5600
x-ide.it
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YOUR NEW SPECS So… What did you think? Like you dear reader, I too just had my fi rst look at the newly revamped 20/20 Europe. Must say, I’m quite impressed and certainly proud that a shared brand (I’m editor of the U.S. edition of 20/20) can cover the optical arena with a particular and unique focus that so specifically covers a market that is at once as global as it is diverse. There is no mistaking that eyewear as an actual product has become increasingly universal in its appeal especially in this last decade but the actual multiplicity and complexity of the specific markets remains so unique to a huge variety of countries. And there is no denying the factors that have impacted the delivery of media information in this day and age of instant, constant and basically unfiltered information. Your sources of guidance are limitless and in order to justif y existence and relevance to your profession (and, hopefully, your passion) this magazine and this brand dubbed 20/20 needs to make every word
VIEW FROM THE US
James J. Spina t VP Editor in Chief 2020 USA
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and every image count toward a better understanding of your chosen lot in life. Let’s put it in a “sight” context that plays right into the very name of this 20/20 brand. Most everything you can read in this magazine is available in some form or another out there in the word of communication. In fact, it is all there in a huge blur of context-bits and content-bytes. That “blur” is the key here. If we just shovel it back at you our gig here is pointless. We (20/20… the brand… the editorial team) need to act as the f lawless pair of glasses affording you… PERFECT VISION. Anything short of that and, frankly, we are NOT 20/20. Anything short of offering a distinct and clear POV and we’ve failed with the wrong Rx, so to speak. Try us on. Here’s hoping this renewed 20/20 is li ke a great new pa ir of spectacles offering perfect vision in a way that is insightful, st ylish and a great fit… FOR YOU.
46 - INTERVIEW Hoya/Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+: The new progressive lens taking customisation to the next level Robert Kaster, Technical Product Manager Hoya Vision Care Europe explained to EL&T main features, benefits and technologies behind the new individualised progressive lens launched during Silmo 2013 in Paris
50 - CONTINUING EDUCATION Become a Green Practice and See Your Business Bloom The What, Why and How of Going Green
56 - INNOVATIONS News & Products An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market in Europe: PPG, Adlens, Mazzucchelli 1849, Luneau Technology, Safilens, Zeiss
EUROPEAN LENSES
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TECHNOLOGY
HOYA/HOYALUX ID MYSTYLE V+:
THE NEW PROGRESSIVE LENS TAKING CUSTOMISATION TO THE NEXT LEVEL Robert Kaster, Technical Product Manager Hoya Vision Care Europe explained to EL&T main features, benefits and technologies behind the new individualised progressive lens launched during Silmo 2013 in Paris
Hoya has recently launched its new progressive lens Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+. Which are the main features of this new individualised progressive lens? The main features of Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ are the use of Hoya’s patented Binocular Harmonization Technology which balances the design performance of the lens between the right and left eye, the new Hoya iDentifier which guides the optician through the consultation process and selects the perfect lens design for each consumer out of a virtually unlimited design variety. Additionally a new and unique binocular evaluation method, the Binocular Eye Model has been developed, which guarantees that the design is verified under real life circumstances before going into production.
the right and left eye, there are different prismatic side effects for each eye, and each eye will use different areas of the lens. Because in progressive lenses the power changes in vertical direction in order to reach the addition, each eye will experience a different accommodation support. This difference in accommodation support leads to a situation where the image quality is different for each eye. As a consequence the brain will try to equalize the image quality of both eyes. This can lead to so-called asthenopic complaints which are often not directly recognised as being related to the lenses. Hoya’s Binocular Harmonization Technology balances the accommodation support in such a way that both eyes experience the same image quality.
What is Hoya’s Binocular Harmonization Technology? How does it balance the design performance between the two eyes? More than 70% of European presbyopes could experience better vision, especially in the near and intermediate area. This is related to the fact that this group of presbyopes is prescribed different prescriptions for right and left. A known side effect of progressive lenses in general is the so-called prismatic effect, which depends - amongst others - on the power of the lens. If there is a prescription difference between
Can you explain us how the Hoya iDentifier anamnesis system works? Research amongst consumers has shown that more than 75% of presbyopes find it important that their lifestyle is taken into account when buying new progressive lenses. This is exactly what the Hoya iDentifier does. The software guides the eye care professional and his customer through a three step lifestyle module, where the lifestyle of the wearer is recorded in detail. The new Hoya iDentifier 46
INTERVIEW
BINOCULAR EYE MODEL Binocular Clearness
75% OF PRESBYOPES FIND IT IMPORTANT THAT THEIR LIFESTYLE IS TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT algorithm tailors the distance-, intermediate- and near area exactly to the individual needs and combines these into the ideal distribution for each customer. Not only lifestyle, but also the prescription, frame- and wearing parameters, as well as wearing history are taken into account in this process. This unique support system with its virtually unlimited design variations guarantees a fully personalised lens profile for each wearer and can meet the most extreme visual demands.
Accomodation Demand Difference
Which additional benefit offers Hoya’s Binocular Eye Model to this new lens design? As part of Hoya’s InnoVision platform Hoya has developed five new patented binocular evaluation methods which form the very basis of the development of Hoya’s unique Binocular Harmonization Technology. The so-called Binocular Eye Model considers all elements that are important for a perfect binocular performance of progressive lenses, and includes the patented Binocular Clearness Index, Binocular Accommodation Demand Difference, Binocular Vertical Prismatic Difference, Binocular Convergence and the Binocular Magnification Difference. These unique evaluation methods guarantee that each design is verified under real life circumstances before it goes into production, and ensures unprecedented binocular performance of the lenses, regardless the prescription difference of both eyes.
Binocular Vertical Prismatic Difference
Binocular Magnification Difference
In which materials and Hoya treatments is Hoyalux iD MyStyle V + available? Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ is available in Plastic 1.50, PNX 1.53, Eyas 1.60, Eynoa 1.67 and Eyvia 1.74. All indices, except Eyvia 1.74 are available with Suntech Intense. For indices 1.50, PNX 1.53 and Eyas 1.60 Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ is available with AR coatings Hi-Vision Aqua, Super Hi-Vision, Hi-Vision LongLife and Hi-Vision LongLife BlueControl while in indices Eynoa 1.67 and Eyvia 1.74 the available treatments are Super Hi-Vision, Hi-Vision LongLife and Hi-Vision LongLife BlueControl.
Binocular Convergence
Through which Hoya channels are the new lenses available? Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ was launched during Silmo 2013 in Paris and is being rolled out in our European countries since then. The rollout will be finished this month (January 2014). Our customers can use all Hoya ordering tools such as HoyaiLog or Hoyalog, as well as fax or even by phone, for certain countries. 47
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INTRODUCTION ON PROGRESSIVE LENSES
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Two eyes with different prescriptions focusing on an object in the central position in front of the eyes
Progressive lenses feature different addition powers in different parts of the lenses. left
right
image left eye
If both eyes are in the central position, light rays pass through the lens at the same point. Therefore both eyes experience the same addition power.
image right eye
A and B: position where light ray passes through the lens
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Two eyes with different prescriptions focusing on an object close by
Due to different prismatic effects the light rays pass through the lens at different positions for the right and left eye. left
right
Therefore the eyes experience different addition powers.
prismatic effect
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BECOME A GREEN PRACTICE AND SEE YOUR BUSINESS BLOOM The What, Why and How of Going Green By Mark Mattison-Shupnick, ABOM
Learning Objectives Upon completion of this program the participant should be able to:
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Understand the shift in consumer preference for sustainable products.
Learn how the eyewear can be part of a sustainable practice.
Understand the steps to be become a green practice.
Learn the component parts of being certified and communicating a sustainability program.
This course is supported by an educational grant from MODO
M Mark Mattison-Shupnick, ABOM, is currently director of education for Jobson Medical Information LLC, has more than 40 years of experience as an optician, was senior staff member of SOLA International and is a frequent lecturer and trainer. CREDIT: This course is approved for one (1) hour of CE credit by the American Board of Opticianry (ABO). Course SJHI146 This CE is also available online at 2020mag.com
ore than 8 of every 10 consumers buy green products or select products from companies that are green in any variety of ways. That might include CFL light bulbs, natural household cleaners or organic foods as examples. If so many people think green is important then having a green conscience, using green products and communicating that you participate in the greening of the world makes a difference in the way that consumers would view you and your business. “Green has gone mainstream”, writes Jacquelyn Ottman in her book The New Rules of Green Marketing (Feb 2011). “Today, 83% of consumers (Source: Natural Marketing Institute, 2009) - representing four generations, Baby Boomers, Millennials, Gen Y’s and Gen Z’s - are some shade of green. In fact, the green industry is now a $290 billion industry." For perspective, the optical industry generates just under $35 billion. That suggests that adding and communicating “green” as a part of your practice addresses what consumers see as a requirement for any business. Becoming green is aspirational. It’s a set of goals that can be accomplished one step or multiple steps at a time. It doesn’t require complex technology but a commitment individually and, as a team, when choosing products and organizing daily tasks. Becoming a green practice should be a part of every office’s branding plan since green resonates with consumers. Here’s how. 50
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GREEN IS RIGHT
Necessary
Why should you aspire to being greener personally and, in your practice? That’s easy, it’s the right thing to do. In fact, 67% of consumers are looking for greener products, however, green still represents an unmet consumer demand. A GMA/Deloitte Green Shopper Study (2009) discovered that sustainability considerations either drive or inf luence the buying decisions of more than half of the shoppers interviewed in the study. Green consumers shop more often and spend more when they do. Erinn Morgan, in her book, Picture Yourself Going Green (Cengage Learning, 2009) defines becoming green as a cycle i.e., green is the future (what we create for future generations that they will inherit), is affordable (conservation can be budget boosting), healthy (personal choices affect self and others), necessary (responsible to the environment and individuals) and inspiring (looked up to, by self and others). When considering that green also drives consumer opinion, it suggests that adding “what consumer’s want” to the circle, since that fits with the 2/3rds of consumers that are looking for greener products. Additionally, being green fits with the changing demographics of business. In optical, about half of all sales are single vision, the other half multifocals. The 77 million baby boomers (average age 63, average add +2.25) that have driven much of the premium eyewear sales will be eclipsed by 82 million millennials (those born between ’77 and ’97). Millennials have a strong interest in health, centered on wellness, of themselves and the environment around them. Here are some key facts from a 4000-person survey last year (From, A Look at Key Sustainability Trends in the U.S. 2012, NMI Solutions, a global strategy and market research firm). First, the percentage of Generation Y (1977-1998) who report that they "buy as many green/eco-friendly products as they can" is up to
Healthy
Green shoppers
Bought more 33,8 %
Total sample
23,7 % Source: GMA/Deloitte Green Shopper Study
What consumers want
The future
36% in 2012 from 31% in 2009, a 16% growth rate during some tough economic times. Second, Generation Y seems to have higher expectations of sustainability being "baked in" to the product, rather than a line or brand extension; the whole line should incorporate sustainable attributes. And third, Generation Y is sure to shape the marketplace around its needs and desires. And Generation Y consumers have decades of purchase decisions ahead of them. Sustainability either drives or influences the buying decisions of more than half of consumers. The Boston Consulting Group (2012) found that Millennials are more receptive to cause marketing (37%) and are more likely than non-millennials (30%) to purchase items associated with a particular cause. And according to a 2011 MIT survey, sustainability is now a part of 70% of corporate agendas. How do consumers know where to shop for green products? From the Green Business Bureau, 55% of today's consumers look for eco-labels on business and products. Almost ¾’s of today's consumers actively seek out trust seals and privacy marks before doing business with a merchant. More than 80% of Americans believe third-party certification plays an important role in the oversight of environmental messaging. By using eco-conscious labeling, your office can tap into a green economy that is growing 10 times faster than the general economy. In fact, by 2015, it is estimated that 60% of US adults will identify themselves as green. So, becoming a green practice and advertising it would attract customers because green is important to current consumers. Green differentiates your office from others, improves an image of trust in the community and becomes a part of the reason for customer loyalty. Having a defined set of green goals and a green identity can motivate and inspire staff. Put it all together and it can grow a business and do some good at the same time. I’m beginning to see a plan emerging here from the resources read. The key words that keep appearing are green and sustainability, using green products, getting green certified and communicating to customers your ‘greenness’. All that is needed are the steps needed to develop the right plan of action.
Green consumers Spend more
43,7 %
Becoming GREEN Affordable
GREEN CONSUMERS PURCHASE MORE
Green consumers Shop more often
Inspiring
29,9 %
Shop more often
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5. Use Green Cleaning Products
10 STEPS TO BECOMING A GREEN PRACTICE
Look at the cleaning products used in your office and change them to greener products. I clicked on the Staples website and in addition to recycled paper products, their cleaning supply pages provide green options. In addition, non-perfumed and green cleaners may be important to patients with allergies. It says, “I’m thinking of you.”
If you agree, here’s a blueprint for your next staff meeting. Having a plan can help prioritize the steps. In fact, once you’ve agreed the plan and the dates on which various items are initiated and then regularly implemented, they become merchandisable to your customers. While these are business building for the practice, the real beneficiaries are you and your customers. I think that they’d really like to know that. Some of these, you may already do but are your customers aware that you do them? So, we’ll also need to discuss the communication side of green.
1. Recycle
For many customers, they may assume recycling is standard, but it isn’t. For example, I f ly Delta airlines often, and its f light attendants make a very visible point about separating the recyclables while picking up trash during the f light. It takes a little longer but adds to my satisfaction with them as an airline. Get the bins that are necessary. It’s OK to have them visible to customers and patients in the office
6. Take a 5 Minute Shower, Reuse Water Bottles
Each of us can do our part every time the tap is turned on. If you’ve had a drought in your area, you’ve felt the affects of not enough water in the inability to water lawns, water crops for grazing animals with resulting higher food prices. In fact, there is not enough clean water worldwide. So, a short shower, turning off the tap while brushing or shaving saves water. The small amount you save, combined with others makes a difference. For everyday use, it's a good idea to refill that water bottle. Did you know that the US disposes of almost 29 billion water bottles a year that used 17 million barrels of crude to create? Why not reuse a qualified re-usable water bottle (bpa-free, washed regularly). Consider using the bottle provided by ECO and show it to customers as part of your office program.
2. Office - Install Energy Saving Light Bulbs
There is a large variety of CFL and f loodlights that are all eco-conscious. They become a replacement for the regular lights in an office. For the retail side of the office, conversion to LED’s replicate the specialty and focused lighting of the places you love to shop. 3. Use Recycled Paper
Be sure to specify that when printing business cards, practice letterhead, invoices, and prescription pads that all materials used come from recycled paper. Most printers have this option. In addition, when doing this consider adding the words, “Printed on recycled paper” for the power that those words have with the consumer.
7. Sell 95% Recycled Material Eyewear
There are only a few companies that make eyewear from recycled materials and also provide a complete marketing program for the practice. Eco eyewear is unique because the plastic and metal frames are made from 95 percent recycled materials. In fact, its tagline “Born Recycled” is provocative, easily makes the connection for patients and helps you start the conversation on why your practice is different by carrying the Eco brand. For metal frames, the stainless steel components are constructed of 95 percent postconsumer stainless steel, i.e., stainless steel in products that have been discarded by consumers recycled by a reclaiming and manufacturing process into new eyewear frames. For acetate frames, they are made from the reclaimed scrap from the initial acetate frame manufacturing process. Why Eco? Eco was developed to be the first eyewear brand committed to sustainability and social responsibility.
4. Buy Green Power and Carbon Offsets
Bookmark the US Dept. of Energy’s webpage (eere.energy. gov) and visit it to find your local green power energy provider. The U.S. Department of Energy has programs and partnerships supporting energy efficiency and renewable energy efforts in the states and their communities. For carbon offsets, as little as $100 a year can help fund clean energy projects around the world that offset the environmental impact of other businesses. Contact Native Energy nativeeneregy.com or e-Bluehorizons bluehorizons. com for more information and ways to participate. 52
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95% PRE-CONSUMER ACETATE
By communicating this, staff and patients can look good and feel good about the way the product has been created, from what has been used, how its been manufactured and into which products they have been made.
95% POST-CONSUMER STAINLESS STEEL
“Trees for the Future trained us on how to increase the quantity and quality of our crops. Now feeding my family is not a problem and I have enough food to feed my entire family with enough left over to sell for profit to use for items such as medical expenses and additional farm labor,” says a local Cameroon farmer.
Designed by the trend-conscious eyewear manufacturer Modo, it combines the style and emotion that consumers demand of eyewear in the only eyewear brand made from 95 percent recycled materials. The ability to combine style with emotion is the essence of an eyeglass frame that a consumer loves to wear. It helps define their identity. It makes a wearer look good and when made well, it feels good. When it also represents a good idea like sustainability, then it also does good. This has become the positioning of the Eco frame line and is one that works well with consumers - look good, feel good and do good. Continue to use this positioning by also letting the customer know that this product is the only environmentally-friendly product certified by UL Environment, an independent agency that certifies environmental claims. This approval is given to products that minimize the use of new resources in their production. This validation certifies that Eco eyewear is made of at least 95 percent recycled stainless steel and plastic. The foldable Eco case is made from recycled PET (polyethylene bottles, not biodegradable) to reduce impact on landfills. All the paper products are made from recycled paper and the envelope in which glasses are received can be reused by consumers to mail their old eyewear to charity organizations. Eco helps donate unwanted eyewear to selected charities that can help provide the gift of sight to the 314 million adults and children worldwide who suffer from poor vision and cannot afford glasses.
8. Do Good, Plant a Tree
Renewal of the air we breathe benefits from every tree that exists and for those that are planted. So consider a “do good” project like an office program that supports tree planting. To date, 680,000 trees have been planted in Cameroon on behalf of MODO. In a partnership with Trees for the Future (TFT, treesforthefuture.com), ECO established the one frame one tree program and plants a tree for every frame sold. Trees for the Future, a leading nonprofit “…integrates tree planting into agriculture and land restoration projects.” “Trees”, says TFT, “bring life back to degraded lands, create better conditions to grow food and provide people with a means to generate income, and mitigate climate change through sequestering carbon dioxide.” Mr. Moshimbo Joseph Nde of Mankon, Head of TFT Programs describes the results of the MODO program for one farmer in Cameroon. He says that training local farmers to use agroforestry techniques by Trees for the Future increases the quality and quantity of crops. That allows the local faring population to support themselves as well as provide additional food for the local markets. Doing good is also more than ensuring sustainability; 53
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it’s the ability to extend your reach into the world’s communities around you. The consumer is looking to support companies that also improve their environment.
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IN-STORE MARKETING
9. Get Certified, Display an Eco-Label
Consumers look for sustainable products so get certified; then identify your office by displaying an eco-label from a certifying agency. Consider the Green Business Bureau (GBB). GBB provides independent third-party certification, assessment and tracking software, overall guidance, on-site support and audits to verify certification as well as tools to grab your customer’s attention. Labeling your practice as green, lets your customers know your commitment to sustainability. Available are scripts, images, social media messaging and press releases for an on-going and interactive arsenal of material to let customers know your green commitment. By using eco-conscious 3rd party labeling, your customers understand your practice participation in sustainability.
Sustainability stories, especially in perhaps from a new source like your optical office are of higher interest. Use them in Facebook posts, as Tweets or for local PR radio, newspaper article and cable programming. Short articles in text (borrow from this CE course), photos and a short video with audio recorded can get traction at the local stations. Describe the changes to your office programs and the products that are being carried that meet this new social responsibility. Community involvement and green practices enhance public image. According to a report by D S Simon Productions, “…media initiatives with a corporate social responsibility focus generates 35-50% more positive media coverage on television, radio, web and social media than comparable programs...” That means that public relations (PR) items that your office supplies to local radio and cable stations will have a better chance of being picked up for publication. That ensures that more than just your own patients know your office’s commitment.
10. Tell Everyone
Marketing is the strategy of communicating with your patients for all the times that they are both in and out of your office, the time between visits. Marketing can be instore or use the variety of social media tools at our disposal today. Direct marketing might be a brochure mailed to patient’s homes or handed them when they arrive at reception. It describes products or services and highlights their benefits. To communicate a socially responsible office, consider using all the vendor available items that use and portray a consistent theme and positioning. In store marketing includes posters, point of purchase (POP) materials like counter cards and displays. In an innovative move that is easily identified as recycled, the display trees are branded Born Recycled and are of a thick matte gray cardboard. The same is true of the brand plaque. In this way, there is continuity of the message of your office’s commitment to the environment and open s the door to say, “This eyewear is made from 95% recycled material. It’s our commitment sustainability.” Everything is made out of recycled material and ships f lat to further decrease the carbon footprint.
POP, Display Trees and Branded Plaque
CONCLUSION Becoming a greener practice is the transitioning from “nice to have” to “must have”. It’s an opportunity since there is an unmet demand for “sustainable” products and more than 8 of every 10 in the US population can be classified as an eco-conscious consumer seeking products and businesses committed to sustainability. Sustainability products can be differentiated and create a competitive advantage. Enhancing your brand with socially responsible products like ECO eyewear, made from 95% recycled materials, benefit the customer, the community, adds to patient loyalty and preference. It creates an environment that makes all in the office proud of where they work. Become a green practice and see your business bloom.
BECOMING A GREENER PRACTICE IS THE TRANSITIONING FROM “NICE TO HAVE” TO “MUST HAVE”
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PPG Trivex material, the best choice for every child
Children need sharp, precise vision for everything they do. Their active lives also call for impact resistance and 100% UV protection, throughout the day. How well their eyeglasses will perform depends very much on the lens material recommended by the eyecare professional. Trivex material provides the best balance of protection and vision enhancement for children – crisp, clear vision, ultra-lightweight comfort, unsurpassed strength with consistent protection. Perfect vision is fundamental for children because their eyes are still developing. Wearing lenses that deliver sharp, clear optics is a must to ensure that kids can see to their full potential. Children spend most of the time outdoors and are exposed to approximately 80% of the total lifetime exposure to UV light in their first 18 years so it is necessary to protect their eyes with 100% UV block provided by lenses made from Trivex material, that also provides impact and breakage resistance with improved durability and resilience compared to other plastic lenses. Another benefit of lenses made from Trivex material is its light weight, that makes children's eyeglasses as comfortable as possible for all-day wear. For even more comfort and protection, the combination of Trivex material with Transitions lenses guarantees the best result in children’s everyday lenses.
Adlens Variable Power Optics Centre opens in Oxford
Adlens, the global leader in variable focus technology for the eyewear industry, opened on November 21st 2013 a new manufacturing facility in Oxford, U.K., to lead the production of Adlens Focuss. Adlens has developed several lines of variable focus eyewear technology and Adlens Focuss is poised to change the landscape of progressive lenses by taking full advantage of the latest advances in Adlens’ technology. Adlens Focuss delivers a full field of vision to progressive lens wearers by allowing them to turn a small dial on the inside of the temple arm to adjust their prescription to a range of customized powers. Advances in Adlens’ current technology have also led to key design enhancements, making Adlens Focuss the company’s most fashion-forward to date. Adlens Focuss will be available in three styles, each with a choice of six rich finishes and colors. The Variable Power Optics (VPO) Centre will also provide an innovation base for Adlens as they continue to expand and improve upon their offerings. The VPO Centre is critical to enhancing Adlens’ capacity to meet demands for eyewear technology generated by partnerships with optical retailers.
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INNOVATIONS
An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market in Europe
Mazzucchelli 1849
Luneau Technology
New inspirations and colours
Optical assistant OptiTab
M49, the eco-friendly thermoplastic material developed by Mazzucchelli, is not only 100% biodegradable and 100% recyclable. A further innovation, regarding design, is represented by the process of high-definition printing on acetate sheets: frames can be personalized with very detailed and colored illustrations or high resolution images. For the collections presented at opti Munich, Mazzucchelli has followed three main trends of inspiration. RELAXED NEUTRAL: a new range of "conceptual" neutral colors. The palette reminds us of the tones of a beach by the ocean, among waves and breezes. THE JUNGLE OF WONDERS: it’s a way of re-inventing the whole repertoire of tropical motifs, camouflage and animal prints. Range is dominated by greens, from flag, to turquoise to leaf. PREMIUM QUALITY: combinations of colors and high quality sophisticated materials. They re-exploit great classics, discounted back by experimental cuts, new relations in the textures and unusual associations of materials. Tones are those warm and reassuring of tradition, from leather to bordeaux, from sepia to tile, from asphalt to mahogany.
OptiTab is the multifunctional tool for Measurement of Centration, Lens Demonstration, Frame selection, Virtual Reality. Thanks to the EY Stick technology, you simply attach or remove the stick onto the patient’s pre-adjusted frame. In contrast with pupilometers which capture PDs anatomically, and do not take into account frame fit, the OptiTab measures monocular PDs with precision. The segment height measurement is uniquely captured using the patient’s natural posture while the swing assembly on the EY Stick allows the rapid capture of the patient’s natural head position for customized results. The unique built-in prism in the EY Stick makes measurement of the rear vertex value easily measured from the front without requiring a second image to be taken from the side. Decentration Values are then able to be transferred via Barcode Printing (AirPrint compatible) or LabConnect using Cloud. This system offers a faster process by measuring all data at once, a high level of accuracy. Movement between photos will not affect results ensuring consistent results. Guaranteed mobility offers use in multiple environments (ie home-visits).
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OPEN IS A COMBINATION OF PHARMACOLOGY AND CONTACTOLOGY AND IS CURRENTLY ONE OF THE MOST ADVANCED SYSTEMS FOR MANAGING MONTHLY CONTACT LENSES ON THE MARKET
Safilens Back at opti for the German market launch of OPEN 30
ZEISS OPEN 30, the first monthly silicone hydrogel lens based on the patented Fusion Technology, is the outcome of a 3 years long research aiming to develop a contact lens that has minimal side effects. This goal was reached by using the patented bio-silicone hydrogel Filcon V and by analyzing each aspect of the interaction between the contact lens and the anterior segment to eliminate the most common causes of “rejection”. The OPEN system consists of contact lens, all-in-one “Reload” solution and sonic wave generator. As a result of the Fusion Technology, the lens benefits from the combined action of hyaluronic acid (HA) and Tamarind Seed Polysaccharide (TSP) that increases the hydrating, lubricating, mucomimetic, protective and cellular regeneration effect of the two polymers, and promotes tear film stability. “Open Reload” is an all-in-one solution containing highly-concentrated Fusion co-polymer based on a superior quality hyaluronic acid. The sonic wave generator assures that any deposit build-up is removed and HA and TSP are reabsorbed during the night, for a regenerated lens every day. The German market has always been critical for Safilens, which has been using leading local distributors to sell its Safe-Gel range for years. “However, we will be using controlled distribution for OPEN 30 and the Fusion products”, Safilens Managing Director Vincenzo Bruno said.
Sun lenses. There is much behind a filter
Not all the sun lenses are the same. Zeiss unveils the secrets behind the “Z” engraved into their sun lenses, because there is much behind a filter. It all starts with the usage of pure materials, the expertise in the development of more than 1.000 stylish and performance custom made colours, innovative shapes and coating, technology to fit fashion, design and sport frames. Every ZEISS sun lens is accurately designed to offer the finest vision and sun protection to the eyes, guaranteed by more stringent quality standards and tests than the sunglasses industry requirements. At ZEISS, the lens is not their only concern, they also take care of the quality of vision provided by the complete sunglasses. With the exclusive qualification process, a dedicated service for ZEISS customers, the Sunlens laboratories in Italy analyze each model in order to ensure the perfect match of the lens mounted on the frame according to precise optical parameters. Every sunglasses meeting ZEISS quality requirements are then registered in a website to guarantee the authenticity of ZEISS Sunlens technology. The result for the end consumer is an optically perfect sunglass.
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DER EDLE HENRY JULLIEN Qualität war für Henry Jullien stets von größter Wichtigkeit, da sie der Schlüssel und der Ursprung des Markenerfolgs ist. Das Erbe von Mr. Henry Jullien hat der französischen Marke seit 1921 die Stärke verliehen, Modetrends und auch Krisen zu überstehen, selbst wenn dies mit geringeren Profiten verbunden war. Walzgoldrahmen, Edelstahl- und Sandvik Nanof lex-Produkte erfordern eine hohe Qualität, die nur mit einer integrierten Produktion erreicht werden kann. Pierre Fauveau, der heutige Präsident des Unternehmens, erinnert sich an den einzigartigen Prozess zur Umsetzung des Konzepts, das bis heute so viele Menschen fasziniert. „Nach mehr als 300 äußerst heiklen Arbeitsgängen zur Fertigung eines Goldrahmens, garantiert der eingeprägte Stempel die Qualität des verarbeiteten Walzgoldes und steht für das Know-how der Marke Henry Jullien. Dieses ist nun weltweit einzigartig. Einige unserer Kunden kehren nach 10 Jahren mit ihrem Gestell zum Augenoptiker zurück und fragen hoch zufrieden nach derselben Qualität“. Der Top Luxus-„Lunetier“ erkämpft sich einen Platz in der Welt Weltweit von Lons-le-Saunier, Jura, Frankreich aus agierend, ist der internationale Markt noch immer der Wichtigste für Henry Jullien, „durch intensive BtoC-Kommunikationskampagnen während der 90er in Frankreich, die zu einem hohen Bekanntheitsgrad der Marke in diesem Gebiet geführt haben“, erinnert sich Pierre Fauveau. Hauptsächlich von Frauen, Intellektuellen und Geschäftsleuten über 40 Jahren nachgefragt, die qualitativ hochwertige Produkten,
Pierre Fauveau Präsident von Henry Jullien
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schlichte Eleganz und Understatement wünschen, positioniert sich Henry Jullien als Luxus-„Lunetier“ wie kein anderer Name, der Tag für Tag das lang erarbeitete Marken-Know-how pf legt und bewahrt. „Ein Besuch in den Werkstätten gibt einen Einblick in die traditionsreiche Produktion mit der Präzision eines Uhrmacherbetriebes. Ein meisterhafter Produktionsprozess mit ausgeprägter Liebe zum Detail für perfekt gefertigte Brillengestelle“, sagt Pierre Fauveau stolz. Außerhalb Frankreichs arbeitet das gegenwärtige ManagementTeam gerade an der weltweiten Markenentwicklung für eine internationale Marktpositionierung. „Wir arbeiten sehr eng mit Partnern zusammen und der Schlüssel zum Erfolg ist und bleibt das Vertrauen in unsere Produkte“, sagt der Präsident des Unternehmens, obwohl „eine integrierte Produktion wie die Unsere zwar die Verbesserung der Qualität vereinfacht, wird die Arbeit mit Vertragspartnern jedoch erheblich erschwert“, fügt er hinzu. Als Familienunternehmen hatte Henry Jullien im Gegensatz zu den großen Unternehmensgruppen niemals eine gezielte Vertriebsstrategie. Die Marke sollte stets „erschwinglich“ für jeden sein, der sie anbieten wollte. Daher arbeitet das Unternehmen mit verschiedenen Partnern aus der Optikbranche zusammen. “Unser Ziel ist es, eine hohe Qualität und einen guten After Sales Service zu bieten”, bestätigt Pierre Fauveau. Die Marke erhielt kürzlich von der CDO-Gruppe in Frankreich eine Auszeichnung für die Qualität und das darauf basierende Kundenvertrauen.
STÉPHANE EMERIC Der Designer der Kollektion ELEVENPARIS von OPAL, der Franzose Stéphane Emeric gibt wenige Tage vor dem Erscheinen einer „wirklich elektrisierenden Kollektion“ einen Einblick in seine Gedankenwelt
Anpassung an die Marktanforderungen Seit den Neunzigerjahren stärkt Henry Jullien neben der Produktion von Goldfassungen mit der Serie „Les Contemporaines“ eine zweite Produktlinie aus Edelstahl und Sandvik Nanof lex für Menschen, die auf der Suche nach Leichtigkeit und schlichter Eleganz sind. Anlässlich des 90-jährigen Bestehens hat sich Henry Jullien entschlossen, seine Produktion um eine weitere Serie mit dem Namen „Les Urbaines“ zu erweitern, in der neue Materialien wie Acetat oder Carbonfasern eingesetzt werden. „Dies ermöglicht es uns, eine jüngere Klientel mit einem eher urbanen und trendigen Lebensgefühl anzusprechen, wobei Eleganz, Understatement und Schlichtheit die wichtigsten Markenmerkmale bleiben“, erklärt Pierre Fauveau. Die Erfüllung der Marktbedürfnisse hinsichtlich des Designs ist eine jährlich wiederkehrende Herausforderung für die Konzeption einer neuen Kollektion zum richtigen Zeitpunkt. „Dies ist nicht einfach, denn wenn man bedenkt, dass zwischen der ersten Entwurfszeichnung und der Auslieferung eines Modells nur ein Jahr Zeit bleibt, müssen wir äußerst schnell reagieren“, führt Präsident Fauveau aus. Darum informiert sich der Designer Olivier Mollard laufend über die aktuellen Trends bei Design, Mode und Fertigungsstil. Pierre Fauveau versichert: „Er kann sich von jedem Detail inspirieren lassen, das Sie oder ich vielleicht gar nicht bemerken würden“. Die Bestseller von Henry Jullien sind Equinox und Karma. Der Präsident des Unternehmens erklärt: „Die erste AcetatKollektion Equinox (2011) kombinierte sowohl Metall- als auch Acetat-Elemente und verkörperte das Wesen der handwerklichen Perfektion von Henry Jullien. Die Kollektion Karma (2013) basiert auf einer ähnlichen Struktur und umfasst Damen- und Herrenmodelle mit Acetatfronten und Metallbügeln“.
Die Kollektion erscheint im Januar. Wie fühlen Sie sich angesichts dieses bevorstehenden Ereignisses? Natürlich bin ich sehr aufgeregt und unruhig vor dem Erscheinungstermin für die neue Kollektion, ebenso wie das gesamte Team von OPAL, insbesondere diejenigen, die eng mit mir zusammengearbeitet haben. Ich freue mich sehr über die gesamte Kollektion und bin gespannt auf die Reaktion unserer Kunden. Auch wenn aus gutem Grund annehmen, dass der Start der Kollektion ein Erfolg für OPAL wird, sind wir natürlich auch besorgt.
"Ich habe diese neue Kollektion sicher nicht allein erschaffen"
Verkauf kostspieliger Gestelle Besorgt um den gegenwärtigen Zustand des Landes ist sich Pierre Faveau bewusst, dass sein Erfolg auch vom Verkauf in Augenoptikgeschäften abhängt. Das Verkaufspersonal bietet kostspielige Gestelle nur ungern an und diesbezügliche Schulungen sind für die Marke Henry Jullien sehr wichtig. „Sie sollten sich nicht scheuen, High-End-Produkte anzubieten“, sagt Fauveau, „doch in der Praxis müssen sie allerdings argumentieren und die Markenphilosophie erklären“. Erfolg lässt sich nur durch harte Arbeit und hohe Qualität erzielen. Dafür steht der Name Henry Jullien seit fast 100 Jahren.
Ich bin mir sicher, es war eine große Herausforderung, diese erste ELEVENPARIS Kollektion zu designen. Das Erscheinen einer neuen Kollektion ist immer eine Herausforderung. Wir müssen mit einem weißen Blatt beginnen, die Marke verkörpern und ihre DNA aufnehmen, ehe wir mit den ersten Entwürfen beginnen. Tatsächlich erleichtert es meine Arbeit, über ELEVENPARIS zu sprechen, wie man sich vorstellen kann, da eine so dynamische und kreative Marke buchstäblich das Idealbild für die Inspiration eines Designers verkörpert. Wer war während der Kreation in Ihrem Team? Wir sind gegenwärtig ein Team aus vier Designern bei OPAL. Tiffany und Rémi, die beiden neuesten Mitglieder, sind zwei junge, talentierte Designer mit einigen Jahren Erfahrung in der
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Augenoptikbranche. Sophie ist diejenige mit der größten Erfahrung und bereits seit 10 Jahren bei OPAL, ich selbst bin seit 2010 hier. Es gibt keine Konkurrenz zwischen uns, ganz im Gegenteil. Wir teilen viele unserer Ideen für unsere eigenen Projekte. Ich habe diese neue Kollektion sicher nicht allein erschaffen. Außerdem habe ich mit Anne von ELEVENPARIS zusammengearbeitet. Sie ist verantwortlich für die Anpassung der Kollektion an diese Marke. Gemeinsam haben wir die Kollektionsplanung entwickelt, das Markenziel und die Anzahl der Modelle sowie die eingesetzten Materialien definiert. Wodurch sich ein Designer bei OPAL von anderen Designern unterscheidet, ist die Begleitung durch sämtliche Phasen von der Entwicklung bis zur Markteinführung. Die Designer kennen ihre Lieferanten gut. Wir sehen uns häufig, besuchen Fabriken, kennen die Qualitäten und treffen unsere Wahl basierend auf ihrem „savoir faire“. Dies war ohne Frage sehr interessant und eine wichtige persönliche Erfahrung, da ich sämtliche Schritte bis zu fertigen Produkt kennenlernen konnte. Die direkte Beziehung zwischen dem Designer und der Marke sowie zwischen dem Designer und den Lieferanten kann die Effizienz deutlich erhöhen, da keine Informationen durch die Beteiligung von Zwischenhändlern verloren gehen.
Brillengläser von Kilsgaard
BLICKE VON NORDEN
Welches war Ihrer Meinung nach der beste und welches der schlimmste Moment während des gesamten Prozesses? Seltsamerweise sind die schlimmsten und die besten Momente häufig dieselben, wie zum Beispiel Tage, an denen wir die ersten Stücke von unseren Lieferanten erhalten und wir uns vergewissern können, ob die Produkte unsere Ideen und Modellen entsprechen (Formen, Größen…) oder nicht. In vielen Fällen „überwiegt“ die Zufriedenheit und wir sind sogar positiv überrascht. Jedoch kann es auch zu Missverständnissen mit dem Lieferanten kommen oder ein Prototyp zeigt, dass meine Ideen doch nicht so gut waren. In solchen Fällen, falls sie vorkommen, haben wir meist nicht viel Zeit zu reagieren. Allerdings gab es während der letzten Zeit deutlich mehr schöne und glückliche Momente! Das gefällt mir wesentlich besser.
Die Brillen-Kreationen skandinavischer Unternehmen lassen Form und Funktion verschmelzen, inspiriert von einer ausgeprägten Design-Kultur, die in der Schönheit des Schlichten Ausdruck findet
Die naheliegende Frage: Was hat Sie als kreativen Menschen und Designer zu dieser Kollektion inspiriert? Familie, Kinder im Besonderen, oder Ihre Leidenschaften? Wenn Sie Designer sind, kann alles eine Inspirationsquelle sein. Ohne Frage beeinf lussen unsere Erfahrungen (inklusive der Menschen, die wir lieben, unserer Leidenschaften und unserer persönlichen Vorlieben) unsere Designs. Jedoch können kreative Ideen jederzeit überall her kommen. In der U-Bahn, auf der Terrasse eines Cafés und selbst während der Nacht! Welcher Designer ist nicht schon nachts aufgewacht und hat eine Idee aufgeschrieben? Wir beobachten laufend, was uns umgibt. Neugier ist keine Schwäche, sondern ein Qualitätsmerkmal in diesem Beruf. Ich ertappe mich häufig dabei, dass ich mir unbekannte Brillenträger auf der Straße oder in öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln viel zu lange ansehe, was manchmal belästigend sein kann!
Im Dänischen gibt es ein Wort, das den gesamten Sinn des skandinavischen Designs in sich vereint: „Hygge“. Der Begriff ist praktisch nicht übersetzbar, er steht für einen Mix aus Wärme, Behaglichkeit, Komfort, mit einer Prise Fröhlichkeit, die oftmals mit einem unerwarteten oder verborgenen Einsatz von Farbe zum Ausdruck gelangt. Mit seinen f ließenden, essenziellen Linien ist das zeitgenössische skandinavische Design seit jeher ein wichtiger Bezugspunkt für die ganze Welt, eine unerschöpf liche Quelle der Inspiration für Architekten und Designer. Dies vor allem, weil es bereits seit Beginn des 20. Jahrhunderts, seiner Zeit weit voraus, bereits Grundsätzen folgte und Werte vermittelte, die auch heute noch brandaktuell sind, wie zum Beispiel die Demokratisierung der Objekte (man denke nur an das Phänomen IKEA), das Bemühen, Kreationen stets einen kunsthandwerklichen und künstlerischen Inhalt zu verleihen, die Umweltfreundlichkeit oder das Hervorheben von Materialeigenschaften und Texturen durch Verarbeitungstechniken, die sich an der Tradition und an der Natur inspirieren. Mit anderen Worten, eine konstante Suche nach dem perfekten Gleichgewicht zwischen Form und Funktion, zwischen Schlichtheit, Verfügbarkeit und Qualität, mit dem Ziel, den Alltag angenehmer zu gestalten. So ist es auch kein Zufall, dass das Motto des schwedischen Verbands für Werkkunst und Industriedesign Svensk Form (früher Svenska Slöjdföreningen) „Vackrare Vardagsvara“ (hübscher Gebrauchsgegenstand) lautet. Vorläufer des Good Designs und Designer-Ikonen wie Alvar Aalto, Arne Jacobsen und Verner Panton haben so einen Begriff von purer Schönheit geprägt, mit Möbeln und Einrichtungsaccessoires, die noch heute produziert werden, zeitlosen Objekten, die sich harmonisch in jedes moderne Ambiente einbinden und dort zu diskreten, aber dennoch absoluten Protagonisten werden. Diese Kultur beeinf lusste natürlich auch skandinavische Brillen-Designer, bereits begünstigt durch eine Bildung, die einem einzigartigen sozialen und natürlichen Kontext entsprang. So darf man nicht vergessen, dass an diesen Orten auch die Natur die Charaktere
Welche Serie und welches Modell gefällt Ihnen am Besten und warum? Als Kreativdesigner ist meine Lieblingsserie definitiv „life is a joke“. Dieses Konzept mit demselben Thema wie bei der Markenbekleidung hat mir die Möglichkeit gegeben, etwas mutiger zu sein und ein wenig mehr zu „f liegen“. Es ist ein großes Vergnügen für einen Designer, etwas bewegen zu können. Persönlich spricht mich eher „la collection“ an, besonders das Herrenmodell mit den Metallbügeln und der Acetatfront. Ich finde das Damenmodell dieser Linie ebenfalls sehr gelungen. Der Erfolg war eine schöne Überraschung und die Farbschattierungen sind einfach wunderbar. Allerdings wäre ich nicht überrascht, wenn die Bestseller in der Serie „le basic“ zu finden sind, diese Modelle sind herrlich leicht.
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INTERVIEW MIT ALLAN RASMUSSEN, CHEFDESIGNER VON PRODESIGN DENMARK
Skandinavisches Design und insbesondere dänisches Design (Ich möchte an dieser Stelle nur Arne Jacobsen und Verner Panton erwähnen…) ist weltberühmt. Wie übertragen Sie dieses Erbe als Designer in Ihre aktuelle Arbeit? Allan Rasmussen: Unsere Designtradition ist allgegenwärtig, egal ob man Italiener, Franzose oder Däne ist. In unserer Branche hat jedes Land seinen eigenen Designstil. Ich denke, wenn man in einem Land mit einer ausgeprägten Designtradition lebt, ist es tatsächlich sehr schwierig, dieser Tradition nicht in gewisser Weise zu folgen, zumindest auf einer unterbewussten Ebene. Der typisch dänische Ausdruck wäre ein Understatement-Look und auf technischer Ebene das Bestreben, etwas sehr Komplexes extrem einfach aussehen zu lassen. Wir würden versuchen, ein Detail zu fokussieren und es zu einem dominierenden Merkmal zu machen, das durch weniger dominierende Details unterstrichen wird, statt mehrere konkurrierende Hauptmerkmale herauszustellen. Dänisches Design ist besonders aus der Möbelbranche der 40er bis 60er Jahre bekannt. Auch heute haben wir wirklich große Designer in den Bereichen Innendesign und Architektur, jedoch ebenfalls für kleinere Produkte wie Armbanduhren und Schmuck. Ich glaube, dass diese Designbereiche stärker in Verbindung mit Brillenmode zu sehen sind und sich eher Vergleiche zwischen unseren Brillendesigns und dänischem Schmuckdesign ziehen lassen als zu Stühlen und Lampen der 50er.
C1, designed by Verner Panton, 1959. Photo, courtesy Vitra (©Vitra)
der Menschen mitformt, mit ihren Rhythmen Konkretheit und Zweckmäßigkeit in die Kreativität bringt sowie ihre eigenen ethischen und ästhetischen Regeln diktiert. Außerdem hat die Sprache der Designer in diesen Breitengraden den Vorteil, sich frei an spektakulären Naturschauspielen zu inspirieren, wie an den magischen Nordlichtern, den kristallisierten Landschaften, die nur für wenige Monate im Jahr Farben und Formen enthüllen, oder dem kalten, schneidenden Licht. Diese Welt voller Kontraste wird bei den Brillen in nur scheinbar klassische Modelle umgesetzt, da fast verborgene Details mitunter sofort den Design-Charakter erkennen lassen, der sich mittlerweile zu einem unverwechselbaren kulturellen Bezug, fast zu einem Markenzeichen, entwickelt hat. Genau deshalb treffen Brillen wie die von Lindberg den Geschmack eines breiten, internationalen Publikums und kassieren bedeutende Anerkennungen und Auszeichnungen. Und dies nicht nur, weil ihr „Testimonial“ par excellence seit jeher Königin Margrethe II. von Dänemark ist, die diese Brillen bereits seit 1987 trägt. Für sie kreierte das dänische Unternehmen vor vielen Jahren ein exklusives Modell, mit geraden, kurzen Bügeln, die an den Schläfen klemmten, damit sie die Brille während ihrer offiziellen Termine leicht abnehmen und aufsetzen konnte. Die ausgesprochen minimalistischen Brillen skandinavischer Hersteller, ganz im Zeichen der Leichtigkeit und des Grundsatzes „weniger ist mehr“, vernachlässigen jedoch keineswegs High-tech-Aspekte. Ihr Knowhow setzt mittlerweile auch auf den Wert der Technologie und „kleidet“ diese in minimalistische aber universell erkennbare Formen, die eine pure, absolute Schönheit hervorbringen. Bei den Brillen äußert sich diese Innovation in der Verwendung hochwertiger, hochleistungsfähiger Materialien wie Titan oder Naturmaterialien wie Horn und Holz in extraschlanken Profilen und extravaganten Farbkombinationen. Als weiterer Beweis, dass wahrer zeitgenössischer Luxus im Schlichten liegt.
Was sind Ihre wichtigsten Inspirationsquellen? AR: Wir werden hauptsächlich auf einer unterbewussten Ebene inspiriert, wir sehen Dinge und Menschen in unserem Alltag und werden inspiriert, diese Eindrücke mit allgemeinen Trends zu kombinieren. Wir versuchen, uns nicht zu sehr von Gegenständen inspirieren zu lassen, doch wenn dies der Fall ist, dann eher auf einer technischen Ebene und nicht, um einen bestimmten Look zu kreieren. Es könnte eine Möglichkeit sein, Holz und Metall zu kombinieren, die man auf einem Türgriff gesehen hat, oder eine bestimmte Oberf lächenstruktur in das Design einer Ledertasche einf ließen zu lassen. Die wichtigste Inspiration für die Kollektionen von ProDesign war jedoch stets die Vielfalt der Gesichter und Persönlichkeiten, die uns begegnen. Für sie entwerfen wir unsere Designs, nicht für uns. Wir möchten ihre Gesichter auf die bestmögliche Weise zur Geltung bringen und damit ihr persönliches Image unterstreichen. Tatsächlich entwickeln wir viele unserer Designs direkt anhand von Gesichtern, deren Bilder wir wie eine Leinwand nutzen. Diese Philosophie ist es, die ProDesign
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OPTI, DAS ERSTE HIGHLIGHT DES JAHRES
einen wesentlich breiter gefächerten Designausdruck verleiht als dies bei den meisten anderen auf Eyewear-Design spezialisierten Unternehmen der Fall ist. Welches sind die wichtigsten besonderen Merkmale und Trends Ihrer neuen Kollektionen? (Materialien, Farben, Formen…) AR: Oberf lächenstrukturen sind ohne Frage von großer Bedeutung, jedoch geht es nicht mehr allein um den Look, sondern zunehmend darum, wie sie sich anfühlen. Wir arbeiten gegenwärtig viel mit Reliefs und mit Schliffen. Darüber hinaus haben wir großen Erfolg mit gummierten Oberf lächen auf Metallen, für die wir eine spezielle Formel gegen Abnutzung entwickelt haben. Die Farben sollten kräftig sein, jedoch nicht zu stark gemischt werden – Farbabgrenzung ist ein deutlicher Trend. Mechanismen zur Unterstreichung eines luxuriösen Feelings gewinnen ebenfalls zunehmend an Bedeutung, da dies für eine gute Marktpositionierung wichtig ist.
Die wichtigsten Anbieter und interessantesten Newcomer der Augenoptikbranche präsentieren während der opti 2014 vom 10. bis 12. Januar ihre Produkte in den vier Ausstellungshallen der Messe München. Während der letzten Jahre hat sich die internationale Fachmesse für Optik & Design als weltweite Plattform für große und kleinere Hersteller etabliert, die es den Besuchern ermöglicht, die Produkte von mehr als 1.200 Marken näher kennenzulernen und sich darüber zu informieren, was während der nächsten 365 Tage „angesagt“ ist. 23.000 deutsche und internationale Fachbesucher beginnen das neue Jahr mit dieser Messe. Denn dieses Ereignis bietet einen vollständigen Ausblick auf das Marktgeschehen in den Bereichen Optik & Design: Brillengläser, Kontaktlinsen und Rahmengestelle, technische Geräte, Ladenbau und Innenausstattung. „Die opti ist der internationale Marktplatz, auf dem Fachbesucher – im Januar, direkt zum Jahresstart – alles finden, was sie für das neue Geschäftsjahr benötigen“ erklärt Dieter Dohr, CEO und Präsident der GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH, Organisator der Veranstaltung. Bei der letzten opti begrüßten 491 Unternehmen aus mehr als 31 Ländern 23.243 Fachbesucher aus über 70 Ländern. In diesem Jahr präsentieren rund 500 Aussteller ihre neuen Produkte und Innovationen auf 40.000 Quadratmetern Ausstellungsf läche. Für großes Interesse werden auch in diesem Jahr die Opti-Boxen sorgen, in denen sich neue Unternehmen dem internationalen Fachpublikum vorstellen, häufig zum ersten Mal. Dieser Bereich wurde von acht Boxen im Jahr 2013 auf zwölf Boxen für das Jahr 2014 erweitert. Trotz des umfangreichen Ausstellungsangebots ist die opti dank ihres klar strukturierten Auf baus ein kompaktes und hoch effizientes Branchenforum. Jede der Ausstellungshallen hat bestimmte Schwerpunkte und Highlights. Halle C1 beherbergt etablierte Lifestyle-Marken und attraktive Kollektionen. Weltpremieren für Brillengläser und Kontaktlinsen werden in den Hallen C2 und C3 vorgestellt, in denen die Besucher ebenfalls die Bereiche für technische Geräte, Präzisionswerkzeuge und Sehbehinderungen finden. Trendsetter und Trendscouts finden in Halle C4 zueinander, in der innovative und originelle Designideen vorgestellt werden. Hier befinden sich ebenfalls die Ausstellungen für die Bereiche Ladenbau und Innendesign mit dem Fokus auf die perfekte Präsentation von Augenoptiker-Produkten. Das opti Forum in Halle C2 bietet an jedem Tag der Ausstellung interdisziplinäre Vorträge führender Dozenten mit simultaner Übersetzung in die englische Sprache. Das Fortbildungsprogramm ist für sämtliche Aussteller und Besucher der Messe kostenlos.
Umweltverträglichkeit und Lifestyle sind zwei wichtige Schlüsselworte für zeitgemäße Kollektionen. Was ist Ihr Designansatz für diese Konzepte? AR: Umweltverträglichkeit ist wichtig, um ehrlich zu sein, dies allerdings eher in anderen Branchen als in unserer. Man benötigt den Materialeinsatz von 500 Brillengestellen, um ein Fahrrad zu fertigen. Nahezu unsere gesamten Materialüberschüsse werden recycelt, unabhängig davon, ob es sich um Acetat, Titan oder Aluminium handelt. Das Acetat geht in die Spielzeugproduktion, Titan wird für andere Branchen recycelt und ist das recycelbarste Material der Welt. Für mich dient der Einsatz von Holz und Horn eher dem persönlichen Ausdruck eines ökologischen Lifestyles als der unmittelbaren Rettung der Welt. Gleichzeitig ist es eine Tatsache, dass der Umgang mit Holz- und Horngestellen für individuelle Anpassungen nicht besonders einfach ist. ProDesign hat sowohl im Vereinigten Königreich als auch in Australien Designauszeichnungen für ein Produkt aus biologisch abbaubarem Acetat erhalten, das wie Holz aussieht und genau die richtige Beschaffenheit für das perfekte Feeling hat. Wir glauben, dass dies der richtige Weg ist, einen ökologischen Look mit guten persönlichen Anpassungsmöglichkeiten zu kombinieren. Welches sind die zukünftigen Herausforderungen und Projekte von ProDesign? AR: Wir sind ein hervorragend geführtes Unternehmen und haben genügend Ideen für viele Jahre im Voraus. Die gegenwärtigen Herausforderungen stellen sich eher von außen als von innen. Konsolidierungen innerhalb der Branche und der Weltwirtschaft gehören zu den wichtigsten Herausforderungen. Wir unternehmen große Anstrengungen, unsere Kunden während der Krise mit Systemen zu unterstützen, von denen beide Seiten profitieren und haben dadurch große Marktanteile gewonnen. Wir werden in Kürze ein neues Rotationsscharnier mit integrierter Federung vorstellen, einem Mechanismus, der die Sprache dänischen Designs deutlich zum Ausdruck bringt, kompromisslos und mit klaren Linien. Für das kommende Jahr planen wir eine Reihe von Designs, die auf diesem Mechanismus basieren, wobei diese Serie nur eines der fünf vielfältigen und starken Lifestyle-Segmente darstellt, für die wir Kollektionen entwerfen.
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Gehirn, die Wahrnehmungsqualität beider Augen auszugleichen. Dies kann zu so genannten asthenopischen Beschwerden führen, die häufig nicht mit den Brillengläsern in Verbindung gebracht werden. Die Binocular Harmonization Technology von Hoya gleicht die Sichtanpassung so aus, dass beide Augen die gleiche Bildqualität wahrnehmen.
Hoya/Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+: Das neue Gleitsichtglas mit Anpassungsmöglichkeiten auf einem neuen Niveau
Können Sie uns erklären, wie das Anamnesesytem Hoya iDentifier funktioniert? Kundenbefragungen haben gezeigt, dass es für mehr als 75% der an Presbyopie leidenden Menschen wichtig ist, dass ihre Lebensumstände beim Kauf von Gleitsichtgläsern Berücksichtigung finden. Genau dies ist mit dem Hoya iDentifier möglich. Die Software führt den Augenarzt oder Optiker und den Kunden durch ein dreistufiges Modul, in dem die Lebensumstände des Brillenträgers detailliert aufgezeichnet werden. Der Algorithmus des neuen Hoya iDentifiers ermittelt den Fern-, Mittel- und Nahsichtbereich exakt anhand dieser individuellen Anforderungen und kombiniert diese in einer kundenspezifischen Idealverteilung. Nicht nur die Lebensumstände, sondern auch die Verordnung, Rahmen- und Trageparameter sowie die Tragegewohnheiten werden in diesem Prozess berücksichtigt. Dieses einzigartige System, das über unbegrenzte virtuelle Designvarianten verfügt, garantiert ein vollständig individualisiertes Brillenglasprofil für jeden Träger und kann selbst die höchsten visuellen Anforderungen erfüllen.
Robert Kaster, Technical Produt Manager Hoya Vision Care Europe, erläutert EL&T die wichtigsten Merkmale, Vorteile und Technologien hinter dem neuen individuellen Gleitsichtglas, das während der Silmo 2013 in Paris vorgestellt wurde
Welchen zusätzlichen Nutzen bietet das Hoya Binocular Eye Model für dieses neue Brillenglasdesign? Als Teil der Hoya InnoVision Plattform hat Hoya fünf neue patentierte binokulare Prüfmethoden entwickelt, welche die Basis für die Entwicklung der Binocular Harmonization Technology von Hoya bilden. Das so genannte Binocular Eye Model berücksichtigt alle Faktoren, die für eine perfekte binokulare Leistung von Gleitsichtgläsern wichtig sind und beinhaltet die patentierten Systeme Binocular Clearness Index, Binocular Accommodation Demand Difference, Binocular Vertical Prismatic Difference, Binocular Convergence sowie Binocular Magnification Difference. Diese einzigartigen Prüfmethoden ermöglichen den Test jedes Designs unter lebensechten Bedingungen, noch vor der Produktion und gewährleisten eine beispiellose binokulare Leistung der Gläser, unabhängig von der Sehstärkenverordnung beider Augen.
Hoya hat kürzlich sein neues Gleitsichtglas Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ vorgestellt. Welches sind die wichtigsten Merkmale dieses neuen individuellen Gleitsichtglases? Die wichtigsten Merkmale des Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ sind der Einsatz der patentierten Binocular Harmonization Technology von Hoya mit einem Ausgleich der Sehleistung zwischen linkem und rechtem Auge sowie der neue Hoya iDentifier, der den Augenoptiker durch den Beratungsvorgang führt und mithilfe einer unbegrenzten virtuellen Konstruktionsvielfalt das perfekte Brillenglasdesign für jeden Kunden auswählt. Darüber hinaus kommt eine neue binokulare Prüfmethode zum Einsatz, das Binocular Evaluation Model, mit dessen Hilfe das Design vor der Produktion unter lebensechten Bedingungen getestet wird.
In welchen Materialien und mit welchen Hoya-Behandlungen ist iD MyStyle V+ erhältlich? Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ ist in den folgenden Ausführungen erhältlich: Kunststoff 1.50, PNX 1.53, Eyas 1.60, Eynoa 1.67 sowie Eyvia 1.74. Sämtliche Indizes außer Eyvia 1.74 sind mit Suntech Intense erhältlich. Für die Indizes 1.50, PNX 1.53 sowie Eyas 1.60 ist das Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ mit den AR-Beschichtungen HiVision Aqua, Super Hi-Vision, Hi-Vision LongLife und Hi-Vision LongLife BlueControl erhältlich, für die Indizes Eynoa 1.67 und Eyvia 1.74 Super Hi-Vision, Hi-Vision LongLife und Hi-Vision LongLife BlueControl verfügbar sind.
Was ist die Hoya Binocular Harmonization Technology? Wie gleicht sie die Sehleistung zwischen den beiden Augen aus? Mehr als 70% der Europäer mit Presbyopie könnten deutlich besser sehen, besonders im nahen und mittleren Bereich. Dies hängt mit dem Umstand zusammen, dass dieser unter Presbyopie leidenden Gruppe Brillengläser unterschiedlicher Sehstärken für das linke und das rechte Auge verordnet werden. Ein bekannter Nebeneffekt von Gleitsichtgläsern ist der so genannte prismatische Effekt, der – neben anderen Faktoren – von der Glasstärke abhängt. Bei einer Abweichung zwischen dem linken und dem rechten Auge, kommt es zu unterschiedlichen prismatischen Effekten für jedes Auge. Dies führt dazu, dass jedes Auge unterschiedliche Bereiche des Brillenglases nutzt. Da sich bei Gleitsichtgläsern die Stärke in vertikaler Richtung ändert, um die jeweils benötigte Sehstärke zu erreichen, erfährt jedes Auge eine unterschiedliche Sichtanpassung. Diese Anpassungsdifferenz führt zu einer unterschiedlichen Wahrnehmungsqualität für jedes Auge. In der Folge versucht das
Über welche Hoya Vertriebskanäle sind die neuen Gläser erhältlich? Das Hoyalux iD MyStyle V+ wurde während der Silmo 2013 in Paris vorgestellt und wird seither auf unseren europäischen Absatzmärkten eingeführt. Die Einführungsphase wird in diesem Monat (Januar 2014) abgeschlossen sein. Unsere Kunden können sämtliche Hoya Bestellmöglichkeiten wie HoyaiLog oder Hoyalog nutzen sowie in bestimmten Ländern Fax oder sogar Telefon.
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