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( :[P[JO PU [PTL Burberry presents Burberry Whipstitch collection for women, a sunglass range featured on the Spring/Summer 2012 runway with hand-stitched leather cord detail through the acetate frame and temples. Inspired by the Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear and accessories collections, the styles reflect the brand’s heritage in craftsmanship. A faceted oval front combined with a metal plaque at the temples featuring the Burberry logo. The contrasting artisanal whipstitch detail between the front and temples is inspired by the colour palette of the Burberry spring/ summer collections. The colour palette features dark tortoiseshell, amber tortoiseshell, red tortoiseshell, and green tortoiseshell. Burberry Eyewear is available from Burberry stores and selected retailers worldwide.

0[HSPHU LSLNHUJL Alberta Ferretti launches a new sunglass collection in collaboration with Cutler & Gross.

The collection comprises 6 sunglass models which reflect the contemporary femininity and elegance that characterise the Alberta Ferretti world. The designs are inspired by the handmade decorations that come from the motives and linear shapes of the Ferretti ready-to-wear collection.

“Cutler and Gross is a world wide leader in the luxury eyewear field thanks to its expression of tradition and quality. They will be able to translate in the best way the elegant and sensual style that has always characterised the world of Alberta Ferretti,” explains Massimo Ferretti, president of Aeffe.

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Okia has launched the Flowers & Butterflies Collection, which focuses on extraordinary blends of colours: thanks to the use of artificial bright tones, this collection updates a theme from the past by introducing a totally new concept of nature. Always keeping close to its inner features - brightness, mirth, boldness and innovation – OKIA once again confirms the limitless possibilities offered by its HDA® Technology in terms of creativity and design. Thousands of shades connected to classical shapes: that is the primary concept of this new line! Vivid and unexpected colours highlight every single pattern shown on these cheerful models. Besides, the wonderful butterflies and flowers spread all around the frames feature special metallic effects produced through the revolutionary BMT technique. Finally, metallic rims and bridges bestow a delicate and fresh touch of refinement and style on the glasses, never forgetting to communicate originality. Conceived for people fond of new fashions and glamour who want to differ from the mass, this collection offers an eye-catching profile which diffuses vitality and confidence: definitely a must-have for the very next season that will make any other eyewear look ordinary. Keep young with the wonderful sketch-like design by OKIA and get hypnotized by the metallic colours combination! Try on the Flowers & Butterflies Collection, you will not be able to do without!

`LHYZ VM 6YNYLLU Danish eyewear brand Orgreen Optics is celebrating its 15th Anniversary in 2012. In honour of the occasion at MIDO, the company exhibited its iconic pieces from over the years, in a retrospective corner at the Orgreen stand.

These included the elegant sunglasses model, Palma Lova, a celebration of the 1950s catseye shape. The model’s sly cut-out curve accentuates the eyebrow. Available in a golden version and a sultry electric blue, among other chcices.

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W H AT ’S ON IN E U ROPE

4V]L [V )LSNYH]PH Henry Jullien presents Belgravia, a feminine model fitted with the French company’s new demountable screwless hinge. With its elegant lightweight design, this luxurious model is offered in yellow gold, rose gold and Palladium, and also a palette of complementary colours. Henry Jullien is one of the leading traditional eyewear producers in the Jura in France.

4HKL PU .LYTHU` 767 Inspired by the European Championships, Flair has developed a new marketing campaign, which gives a clear, “Yes - to Germany as a location. With this campaign we intend to enforce and support the ophthalmic optics trade”, explains the company.

The new ‘Flair - made in Germany’ decorative package includes a display/counter card, a Flair-Logo in German-flag-colours black/red/yellow and the printed certificate “commitment to Germany” as a location.

This campaign includes the message “We say yes to Germany - and are proud of our country and its values”. This also reflects the values of the optician as well as of Flair.

The delivery of this decorative package is available within a week, so it matches perfectly to the EC and can decorate the shop window area.

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=PZPVU ,_WV HUK *VUMLYLUJL -VYTZ 4LKPJHS (K]PZVY` 7HULS Reed Exhibitions, co-owner of International Vision Expo & Conference, has formed a Medical Advisory Panel to engage contact lens, pharmaceutical and diagnostic companies at International Vision Expo East and West. The new panel, which held its inaugural meeting during International Vision Expo East 2012 at the Javits Center in New York City on Thursday, March 22,

M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

comprises the following companies and representatives: Alcon Laboratories, Rick Weisbarth; Allergan, Dave Gibson; Bausch + Lomb, Mohinder Merchea; Coopervision, Inc., Arthur Alvut; Marco, Robert Kalapp; Topcon Medical Systems, Bob Gibson; and Vistakon, Lee Ball.

“For more than two decades we’ve been recognized as the premiere fashion event. What many don’t realize is that Vision Expo also educates more optometrists than any other eye care meeting,” said Tom Loughran, vice president for Reed Exhibitions. “Over the last few years we’ve taken aggressive steps to build a comprehensive education program that offers the best products, trends and solutions for all eye care professionals.” He added, “With this panel’s support, our goal is to deliver better content and improve overall attendee and exhibitor experience at International Vision Expos.” Show management has already begun to solicit feedback from the Medical Advisory Panel on new and existing programs and plans to tap into individual members’ expertise to further develop optometric programs.

Despite ongoing construction at the Javits Center, early attendance numbers and commentaries following International Vision Expo have been overwhelmingly positive. Preliminary unaudited attendance figures indicate that of the record-breaking 16,317 eye care professionals who attended the show, nearly 3,000 were ODs, a 16 percent increase from 2011. This year, show organizers introduced a new split-level floor plan, which combined pavilions and education to form a new destination on Level 1. The revised layout was part of a larger effort to better connect classroom instruction to hands-on knowledge at the exhibits.

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W H AT â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON IN E U ROPE

9VJR \W New British brand RockOptika has launched its latest optical styles, including trendy round shapes and strong vintage-feel menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs. Designed in Hastings in the UK and made in the Jura region of France, the spectacles and sunglasses are made from fine Italian acetate and reflect a retro-futuristic theme, where old-styling is brought up to date with clever patterns such as lace and classy patterned finishes.

Z[ 9L]PZP[LK Gold & Wood have ve launched model H27, a style based on the Malcolm X signature d signatur design. The mythical, retro-chic model takes on a new life as sunglasses in horn with wood. H27 is a fullrim metal panto shape with light dynamic temples. Attention is placed on the balance of volumes to give wearers a refined but light and comfortable product.

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*VSV\Y ISVJRPUN I` 4HYJ 1HJVIZ The latest sunglass collection by Marc Jacobs is characterised by a strong fashion spirit which reflects the chic, and unconventional styling of the Marc Jacobs brand. Colour plays an important role, with bright hues combined to reflect trends in fashion and accessories this season. For model MJ408s pictured, choose from nude/orange, black/bright blue, pink/mint or purple/ blue to brighten up your days this summer!

T\ZPJ PUZWPYLK Z[`SLZ Italian brand Vanni, produced by Nico Design, has presented a range of products in its Stratos colleection, inspired by the rhythms of Jamaican ska.

The Stratos frames are form formed in acetate by stratifying different colours and thicknesses. The frames are fashioned out of strips of multicoloured acetate combined with plain plastic or single-colour patterns. Both gloss and matt finishes are featured.

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Pramaor has introduced more acetate into the Blackfin collection. Please introduce the line and the new additions launched at Mido.

For Mido 2012, we wanted to increase the Blackfin optical range, and present a new collection focusing on two materials: titanium and acetate.

If you select the Blackfin brand today as a consumer, you can choose from vintage-inspired models right through to more contemporary designs, which are larger and extremely trendy.

Blackfin highlights within this

new collection designs that marry comfort and design, uniting subtle thicknesses, keyhole bridges and open nose pieces with a retro feel, fronts in 2mm thick ultra-light pure titanium and temples in 0.5mm beta titanium with a strong futuristic look.

For those who love softer lines, we have created some models with acetate fronts and ultra flexible beta titanium temples.

The acetate front contrasts ide-

ally with the titanium but, at the same time, brings an elegance and a well balanced aesthetic to the frame which becomes even more refined with the numerous colour choices introduced. The Blackfin models feature classic shades of black, brown, red or dark violet. The originality of the contrasting tones is brought out further by using temple colours featuring opaques and beautiful satin effects. Finally, to make the M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

IN DE TA IL

Bioeyes brand and the new Nylor models we have added are typical of this. Thanks to the new IDCSâ&#x201E;˘ system (Instant and Durable Connection System) patented by Pramaor, the temples are assembled during the final stages of production withmodels extremely wearable, we have inserted adjustable nose pads on the acetate fronts made from 0.5mm thick beta titanium, with comfortable soft PVC plaques. This technical detail is for us an important innovation not only because it allows us to reinforce our position in the local and European market; it also ensures we can satisfy the Asian markets. Thanks to their incredible adaptability, the nose pads perfectly suit the Asian fitting so that the frame sits on the face perfectly.

How have you extended the Bioeyes collection this season?

We have worked hard developing the Bioeyes collection in the last 2 years. We have achieved amazing results in terms of quality and technical innovation.

Recently, we introduced 8 new M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

Nylor models completely made of titanium and beta titanium. titanium The aim was to widen the appeal of the collection to a wider target market. The very light, harmonious and flexible frames now available offer exceptional levels of comfort.

For a female target, we have also introduced models that combine an elegant and refined front in pure shiny titanium and brightly coloured temples with captivating shapes. The double form of some of the models has been designed to permit the use of progressive lenses.

This is a characteristic widely used in our collection Bioeyes, where we feature unisex models in more restrained colours with minimal temple designs. Design, creative research and technical innovation are the characteristics that perfectly describe the i n t e r n a t i o n a l e y e f a s h i o n 11

IN DE TA IL

tionary technology replaces the individual parts – which in the past were soldered together – with a single, robust, resistant and aesthetically clean titanium block.

out the need for soldering, and this widens the variety of forms and colours that we can offer considerably. Finally the bridge and the pad arms are produced with a numeric system 12 20/20 Europe

from a single block of titanium with the innovative technology UNIBLOCK™: this allows us to eliminate solders and joins to increase the strength and stability of the frame. This revolu-

Please explain the qualities of the ATOM III hinge introduced into the BioEyes models.

All our new models feature the ATOM III™ hinge, a third generation innovation with out screws, made completely out of titanium. ATOM III™ offers unrivalled mechanical movement, withstanding more than 50.000 movements, without wearing down.

This is a sensational result: if you open and close the frame at least 10 times a day on average, this means that the frame will last around 14 years. We use a plastic material called MILATON™, which is strong, resistant to heat and absorbs shock even in very thin applications. We have the patent for this which allows us to benefit from a range of products that are made in Italy, according to the strict regulations of “neomadeinitaly™”.

Pramaor has recently created a

video called 53 Steps to perfection. What is the idea behind this special production.

To show our research, quality, and the continuous work we put into perfecting the styling of a brand like Blackfin which is not always easy and sometimes not even the finished product shows quite how much is done to get the end result.

We wanted to translate these characteristics into pictures with a video, “53 Steps to perfection” which shows the stages required for each product in the Blackfin range, starting with the titanium itself. “53 Steps to perfection” is like a collage, a sequence of evocative images about the style and design of the Blackfin brand, which represents the heritage of the values which form our house brand.

Explain the communications project of which the video is a part.

The new communication programme we launched at Mido 2012 is part of a new wider marketing strategy. Our primary objective is to integrate, in a single network all the media to M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

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reinforce brand awareness and communication in the sales outlets we work with. Alongside the video “53 Steps to perfection”, we have created a new campaign in a collaboration with the photographer Giovanni De Sandre which reflects the characteristics of the brands Blackfin and Bioeyes.

Concreteness and elegant minimalism are the two main elements of the new project by Anidride\design for Pramaor: the protagonists, men and women of today, express themselves with a look and eyewear that is minimal and sophisticated. The campaign was completed for the launch of the two new websites for Blackfin and Bioeyes.

With regard to Pramaor’s positioning outside Italy, what are your goals and key markets at present?

After having covered the Italian market with 10 direct agents, Pramaor is looking to expand further abroad. We are already distributing in Germany and 18 other countries including Portugal, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Switzerland, Spain, Serbia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malesia Israel, M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

Taiwan, Brasil, Russia, Turkey and Canada.

same time, the company continues in its process of research and development to create collections

of excellence, suited to consumers who wish to wear spectacles that reflect their personality.

Please summarise the Pramaor philosophy for producing frames in the context of Made-in-Italy.

More than Made-in-Italy, we refer to “neomadeinitaly™”. PRAMAOR created a new development model, which combines the traditional attention to quality represented by “Made in Italy”, with a new creative inspiration and production ethos. The neomadeinitaly™, based on concepts of design excellence and artisan control, defines a new product, sensitive to contaminations between art, culture, technique and technology, that is made in and promotes the search for innovative materials and eco-friendly elements, fully respecting the environment and the individual.

Add any further detail about Pramaor in Europe and the company’s expansion over 2012/2013.

The company is growing steadily and for the 2012-13 period we have planned expansion in the following markets: Morocco, Tunisia, USA, UK, Romania, South Korea and the Philippines. At the

www.blackfin.eu international eye fashion 13

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international eye fashion 15

BRAND PROFILE

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Luxury fashion leader Valentino has launched a new eyewear collection in partnership with Marchon. 20/20 EUROPE took a closer look at the first collection, launched at MIDO 2012, and spoke to designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

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Valentino eyewear collection, produced under licence with Marchon, was nched in March. Outline the direction of the collection in terms of design, materials, colours and detail for S/S 12.

The Valentino eyewear S/S12 Collection is characterized by vintage shapes, distinctive silhouettes and striking contrasts. It features iconic elements of Valentino style interpreted by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli: lace, precise yet feminine lines, and studs. Lace subtly appears on transparent acetate shadow â&#x20AC;&#x201C;with a hint of colour. Metal studs and inserts accent the shape of the lens. The striking, iconic Valentino â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vâ&#x20AC;? becomes a functional element or distinctive detail. Frames are oversized, with curvy silhouettes or sharp architectural shapes.

Retro themes are a key direction here. Please explain the very specific details inspired by the past.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli: Our goal was to create an eyewear

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collection with specific product characteristics and elements of the Maison.

Our style in Valentino is to combine the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic and historic values with a more contemporary approach. We basically chose timeless, classic shapes for eyewear because we believe that Valentino is a brand that must give this type of sensation to the customer. But at the same time, we have added elements that make them extremely modern and absolutely unique.

Explain any links with the Valentino apparel collections.

MGC and PPP: We found technical solutions, such as making hinges that incorporated the symbol of our Maison. We were able to print a lacy motif on the lenses that provides excellent visibility and also protects against the sun.

Valentino Eyewear is a high-tech product.

Founded in the 1960s, the Maison Valentino has come to represent haute couture at its finest. Explain further.

M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

BRAND PROFILE

The Maison Valentino is one of the most important expressions of the couture savoir fair and excellence. A “Made In Italy” label that is the most famous in the world.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, Creative Directors since October 2008, prefer a hands-on approach, writing a new language using traditional tools.

Their style is to combine the brand’s classic and historic values with a more contemporary approach. They work in this company with a prestigious past, but they also live in today’s contemporary world. That’s why they don’t want to forget their background or the heritage of this Maison: their goal is to make it more contemporary, combining elements of the past, yet being fashion forward and designing products for contemporary women.

M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

Does a brand like Valentino, with such an important heritage, have new goals and new directions today. Please explain putting the licence with Marchon in context.

MGC and PP: Our creativity can be applied to different lines, from haute couture, where we can experiment with unique to prêt-a-porter lines such as accessories and eyewear. We believe that the key of our style is our ability to transform everyday items into pieces that are special and reflect a world of reference. This is a very important objective from a stylistic perspective because it means bringing the world of Valentino to products that are not typical for the fashion house, but with the same level of commitment found in haute couture and couture.

In a haute couture fashion house, any product must be luxurious and reveal

international eye fashion 17

BRAND PROFILE

superb craftsmanship, which is essential for it to be couture. Therefore, the craftsmanship and technology used to make these sunglasses is on the part with haute couture production: they are flawlessly made and absolutely modern objects.

Marchon has been an important element of our team because our goal was to express the stylistic vision and approach of the Maison using the technical expertise of a renowned eyewear manufacturer. Marchon has been fundamental to apply the know-how typical of the eyewear industry to our concept of lightness, elegance, luxury and modernity.

Do you have any specific goals or plans for the optical/sunglasses collections in Europe.

MGC and PP:Â Europe is an important market for Valentino and no doubt it will also be one for our eyewear business.

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/& E Z Kd t t Z 'Ƃƚƚŝ ^t/d Z> E ƌĞĐĞŝǀĞĚ ƚŚĞ ŝ& ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚ ĚĞƐŝŐŶ ĂǁĂƌĚ ϮϬϭϮ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ƌĞĚĚŽƚ ĚĞƐŝŐŶ ĂǁĂƌĚ ϮϬϭϮ ĨŽƌ ŝƚƐ &ŽŶƐ ƐƵŶŐůĂƐƐĞƐ͘ dŚĞ ŵŽĚĞů ŝƐ ĨƌŽŵ ƚŚĞ ^ƉŝŶΘ^ƚŽǁ ϯϲϬΣ ĐŽůůĞĐƚŝŽŶ ĂŶĚ ƐƚĂŶĚƐ ŽƵƚ ŝŶ ďŽƚŚ ĚĞƐŝŐŶ ĂŶĚ ĨƵŶĐƚŝŽŶĂůŝƚLJ͘ ^W/EΘ^dKt ^hE'> ^^ ^ tĞĂƌŝŶŐ Ă ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ ƐƵŶŐůĂƐƐĞƐ ŝƐ ĂůǁĂLJƐ ĂƐƐŽĐŝĂƚĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ ƉůĞĂƐƵƌĞ͘ ůŽŶŐ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ŶĞǁ ϯϲϬΣ ^ƉŝŶΘ^ƚŽǁ ŵĞĐŚĂŶŝƐŵ ƚŚŝƐ ƐƵŶŐůĂƐƐĞƐ ĂƌĞ ƉůĞĂƐĂŶƚ ĂŶĚ ƌĞůŝĂďůĞ ĐŽŵƉĂŶŝŽŶƐ ŝŶ ĂŶLJ ƐŝƚƵĂƚŝŽŶ͘ ^ƉŝŶΘ^ƚŽǁ ŵĞĂŶƐ ϯϲϬΣ ƉŽǁĞƌ͘ tŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ƌĞǀŽůǀŝŶŐ ĞĂƌƉŝĞĐĞƐ ƚŚĞ ƐƵŶŐůĂƐƐĞƐ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ĨŽůĚĞĚ ƵƉ ĨůĂƚ ƐŽ ƚŚĂƚ ƚŚĞLJ Ĩŝƚ ĂŶLJǁŚĞƌĞ͘ ^ > K& Yh >/dz d :ƵƐƚ ĂƐ ǁŝƚŚ Ăůů ŐƂƚƚŝ ƐƵŶŐůĂƐƐĞƐ͕ ƚŚĞƐĞ ŵŽĚĞůƐ ĂƌĞ ĞŶŐƌĂǀĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ ĂŶ ͞Ƃ͕͟ Ă ŵĂƌŬ ŽĨ ƋƵĂůŝƚLJ͘ Z Z^ ZĞĂĚŝŶŐ ŐůĂƐƐĞƐ ŵĂĚĞ ŽĨ ŚŝŐŚͲƋƵĂůŝƚLJ ƚŝƚĂŶŝƵŵ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ĨƌĞƐŚ ĐŽůŽƌ ĂŶĚ ŐƌĞĂƚ ůŽŽŬ ʹ ƚŚĞ ŶĞǁ ZĞĂĚĞƌƐ ĨƌŽŵ ŐƂƚƚŝ ^t/d Z> E ŽĨĨĞƌ LJŽƵ ŵĂŶLJ ĂĚǀĂŶƚĂŐĞƐ͘ tŝƚŚ ĂŶ ĞƌŐŽŶŽŵŝĐ ďƌŝĚŐĞ͕ ƚŚĞ ƌĞĂĚŝŶŐ ŐůĂƐƐĞƐ Ɛŝƚ ĐŽŵĨŽƌƚĂďůLJ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ŶŽƐĞ ĂŶĚ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ĨŽůĚĞĚ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ ĨůĂƚ ƚŚĂŶŬƐ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ϯϲϬΣ ƌŽƚĂƚŝŶŐ ^ƉŝŶΘ^ƚŽǁ ƚĞŵƉůĞƐ͘ dŚŝƐ ŵĞĂŶƐ ƚŚĂƚ ƚŚĞƌĞ ŝƐ ƉůĞŶƚLJ ŽĨ ƌŽŽŵ ĨŽƌ LJŽƵƌ ZĞĂĚĞƌƐ͕ ĞǀĞŶ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƐŵĂůůĞƐƚ ďĂŐ͘

32 20/20 Europe

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N EW S

͞D z d, &KZ t/d, zKh͊͟ ŚƵŐĞ͕ ǁŽƌůĚǁŝĚĞ ĨĂŶͲĨŽůůŽǁŝŶŐ ĂĐĐŽŵƉĂŶŝĞƐ ƚŚĞ ^ƚĂƌ tĂƌƐ ŚĞƌŽĞƐ͕ ǁŝƚŚ ŬŝĚƐ͕ ƚĞĞŶƐ ĂŶĚ ĞǀĞŶ ĂĚƵůƚƐ ĨĂƐĐŝŶĂƚĞĚ ďLJ ƚŚĞ ƐĂŐĂ͘ ŝƐĐŽǀĞƌ ƚŚĞ ŶĞǁ ^ƚĂƌ tĂƌƐ ĨƌĂŵĞ ĐŽůůĞĐƚŝŽŶ ĨŽƌ ŬŝĚƐ ĂŶĚ ƚĞĞŶƐ͕ ŝŶĐůƵĚŝŶŐ ŽƉƚŝĐĂů ĨƌĂŵĞƐ ĂŶĚ ƐƵŶŐůĂƐƐĞƐ͘ DĂƚĐŚĞĚ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ǀĂƌŝŽƵƐ ^ƚĂƌ tĂƌƐ ŚĞƌŽĞƐ͕ ŽƵƌ ǀĞƌLJ ŽǁŶ ƐƉĞĐŝĂů ĞĨĨĞĐƚ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĨŽƌŵ ŽĨ Ă ůŝŐŚƚƐĂďĞƌ ŐůŽǁƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĚĂƌŬ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƚĞŵƉůĞƐ͊ ĚƵůƚƐ ƚŽŽ ĐĂŶ ŐŽ ŽƵƚ ĂŶĚ ĞdžƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞ Ă ^ƚĂƌ tĂƌƐ ϯ Ĩŝůŵ ŝŶ ƉĂƌƚŝĐƵůĂƌ ĐŽŵĨŽƌƚ ďLJ ǁĞĂƌŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƐƉĞĐŝĂůůLJ ĚĞǀĞůŽƉĞĚ ^ƚĂƌ tĂƌƐ ϯ ĨƌĂŵĞ ʹ ƐƵŝƚĂďůĞ ĨŽƌ ĨŝƚƚŝŶŐ ǁŝƚŚ ƉƌĞƐĐƌŝƉƚŝŽŶ ůĞŶƐĞƐ ;ĂŶĚ ĐĂŶ ĞǀĞŶ ďĞ ǁŽƌŶ ĨŽƌ ϯ Ĩŝůŵ ĨƵŶ Ăƚ ŚŽŵĞ ƵƐŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƌĞĂů ƐLJƐƚĞŵͿ͘ &ĂƐĐŝŶĂƚŝŶŐ Ĩŝůŵ ĞĨĨĞĐƚƐ ĂŶĚ Ă ŐƵĂƌĂŶƚĞĞĚ ĞLJĞĐĂƚĐŚĞƌ ŝŶ LJŽƵƌ ǁŝŶĚŽǁ ĚŝƐƉůĂLJ͊ >/>> / ͵ 'KZ' Kh^ &Z D ^ &KZ >/dd> WZ/E ^^ ^ &ƌŽŵ ƚŝŶLJ ƚŽƚ ƚŽ ƐĐŚŽŽůŐŝƌů͕ ƚŚĞ ŶĞǁ >ŝůůĞďŝ ĨƌĂŵĞƐ ŝŶ ƐƚLJůŝƐŚ ƐŚĂƉĞƐ ĂŶĚ ƚƌĞŶĚLJ ĐŽůŽƵƌƐ ĐĂŶ͛ƚ ĨĂŝů ƚŽ ĚĞůŝŐŚƚ͘ :ƵƐƚ ůŝŬĞ Ă ŐƌŽǁŶͲƵƉ ĨƌĂŵĞ͕ ĚĞůŝĐĂƚĞ ĨůŽǁĞƌLJ ŽƌŶĂŵĞŶƚĂƚŝŽŶ ĚĞĐŽƌĂƚĞƐ ƚŚĞ ƚĞŵƉůĞƐ͕ ǁŚŝůĞ Ă ĚĞŵƵƌĞ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĨůĂƚƚĞƌƐ ƚŚĞ ĐŚŝůĚŝƐŚ ĨĞĂƚƵƌĞƐ͘

ŬũĞůů ƌĞůŽĂĚĞĚ ϮϬϭϮ ŵĂƐĐƵůŝŶĞ͘ ĐůĂƐƐŝĐ͘ ƚŽƵŐŚ͘ ƉůĂLJĞƌ͍͊ ŐĞŶƚůĞŵĂŶ͍ ŐŽŽĚ Žƌ ďĂĚ ĐŽƉ͍ LJŽƵ ĐƌŽƐƐ ŵŽƵŶƚĂŝŶƐ ĂŶĚ ǀĂůůĞLJƐ ŽŶ Ă ŵŽƚŽƌďŝŬĞ͍ LJŽƵ ĐĂƉ LJŽƵƌ ƚƌŝƉ Žī ǁŝƚŚ Ă ďŽƩůĞ ŽĨ ǁŚŝƐŬLJ ĂŶĚ Ă ĐĂƉ ĮƌĞ͍ LJŽƵ ůŽǀĞ ƚŽ ĐŽŶƋƵĞƌ ƚŚĞ ƐĞǀĞŶ ƐĞĂƐ ŝŶ LJŽƵƌ ŽŶĞ ŵĂŶ ďŽĂƚ͍ ĂĐƟŽŶ ŚĞƌŽ Žƌ ƟŵĞůĞƐƐ ŐĞŶƚůĞŵĂŶ͕ ďĞĞƌ Žƌ ǁĂƚĞƌ͕ ŝƚ ĚŽĞƐŶ͛ƚ ŵĂƩĞƌ͘ ƚŚĞ ƚǁŽ ƟŵĞƐ ĐůĂƐƐŝĐ͕ ĂůƌĞĂĚLJ ǁŽƌŶ ďLJ ũĂƐŽŶ ƐƚƌĂƚŚĂŵ ĂŶĚ ďƌƵĐĞ ǁŝůůŝƐ͕ ŵĂŬĞƐ Ă ϮϬϭϮ ĐŽŵĞͲ ďĂĐŬ ŝŶ ĨŽƵƌ ƐƚLJůŝƐŚ ĐŽůŽƵƌ ĐŽŵďŝŶĂƟŽŶƐ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚŝŶŶĞƌ ƚĞŵƉůĞ ĂƌŵƐ ŐŝǀŝŶŐ ĞdžƚƌĂ ĐŽƌŶĞƌƐ ĂŶĚ ĞĚŐĞƐ͘ ŵĂƐĐƵůŝŶĞ͘ ĐůĂƐƐŝĐ͘ ƚŽƵŐŚ͘ ǁŽŵĞŶ ǁŝůů ŐŽ ǁĞĂŬ Ăƚ ƚŚĞŝƌ ŬŶĞĞƐ͕ ƉƌŽŵŝƐĞĚ͊ ŚĂŶĚŐĞĨĞƌƟŐƚ ŝŶ ĞŝŐĞŶĞƌ ŚĞƌƐƚĞůůƵŶŐ͕ ďĞƌůŝŶ

W Z /^ ,ĞŶƌLJ :ƵůůŝĞŶ ĐŽŶƟŶƵĞƐ ƚŽ ĨŽƌŐĞ ĂŚĞĂĚ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ŶĞǁ ŵŽĚĞů ĐŽŵďŝŶŝŶŐ ŵĞƚĂů ĂŶĚ ĂĐĞƚĂƚĞ͕ ĂĚĚͲ ŝŶŐ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ͞hƌďĂŶ͟ ůŝŶĞ ƉƌĞƐĞŶƚĞĚ ŝŶ ϮϬϭϭ ƚŽ ŵĂƌŬ ƚŚĞ ϵϬƚŚ ĂŶŶŝǀĞƌƐĂƌLJ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ďƌĂŶĚ͘ tŝƚŚ ŝƚƐ ĐŽŶƚĞŵƉŽƌĂƌLJ ůŝŶĞƐ ĂŶĚ ƐůĞĞŬ ůŽŐŽ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ŚŝŶŐĞ͕ ƚŚŝƐ ŵŽĚĞů ŝƐ ĂŝŵĞĚ Ăƚ ďŽƚŚ ŵĞŶ ĂŶĚ ǁŽŵĞŶ͘ dŚĞ ,ĞŶƌLJ :ƵůůŝĞŶ ĐŽůůĞĐƟŽŶ ĐŽŶƟŶƵĞƐ ƚŽ ƌĞŝŶĨŽƌĐĞ ĂŶ ĞŶĚƵƌŝŶŐ ƐƉŝƌŝƚ͗ ƵŶĚĞƌƐƚĂƚĞĚ ĚŝƐƟŶĐͲ ƟŽŶ͕ ƉƌĞŵŝƵŵ ĮŶŝƐŚ ĂŶĚ &ƌĞŶĐŚ ŵĂŶƵĨĂĐƚƵƌĞ͘ DŽĚĞů ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ ďŽƚŚ ŵĞŶ͛Ɛ ĂŶĚ ǁŽŵĞŶ͛Ɛ ƐŚĂƉĞƐ Ͳ ϰ ƐŚĂƉĞƐ ŝŶ ϰ ĐŽůŽƌƐ͘

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international eye fashion 33

VIEW FROM THE US

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know what they want. What they want is accessories. That has been made very clear at 20/20â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; oto shoots, featuring children between the ages of six and 12. They all wear the latest in footwearâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;colorful ndals, flip flops with wonderful accents and athletic shoes, some of which light up when they move. And the headwear? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a vivid array of baseball caps on backwards, of course, big, floppy straw hats, headbands and a wide assortment of hair ornaments. One little girl was especially fond of a flexible stuffed leopard that

she wrapped around her neck faux-fur style. A seven year-old boy proudly showed me his oversized sport watch and explained excitedly what each of the buttons did.

So how does this translate to eyewear? Kids love it. Our young models always want to look in mirrors to see themselves in glasses. They also make certain their parents, who are very admiring, see how they look. For this young group, putting on eyewear is a positive experience. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another accessory.

What kids also want is color. They love colorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;bright colorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;oranges, greens, purples, reds, and always blue for both boys and girls. I am pleased to report that after too much gold, pewter and brown in kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; eyewear, vibrant colors and fun mixes are making a strong showing. That makes me very happy. Kids love color and so do I. Listen to the kidsâ&#x20AC;Ś and meâ&#x20AC;Ś and bring on the color.

Gloria Nicola, 20/20 USA, Senior Features Editor

34 20/20 Europe

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deutsch wurden neue Stilrichtungen sowie das Modell Wolfgang, Prince oder Theo vorgestellt.

Diese Modelle präsentierten sich als dezent aber elegant in Farben wie blaugrau, rauchfarben oder mit doppelten Frontfarben sowie schwarz mit durchscheinendem braun.

Sonderteil – Deutschland Trends Einleitung Designerfinder aus Deutschland und Österreich Was Brillen angeht, tun die Deutschen das, was sie am besten können – einwandfreie und gewissenhafte Designs mit einer bemerkenswerten Qualität und Anfertigung.

Man addiere Fashion mit einer Portion Style und man erhält eine Idee davon, wie es deutsche Designer geschafft haben sich auf der ganzen Welt einen Namen zu machen. Für einen Überblick im Bereich Brillenmode 2012 hat 20/20 EUROPE einen Blick auf die Kollektionen von Brillengestelle aus Deutschland und Österreich geworfen.

Die Brillentrends aus diesem Jahr sind sehr beeindruckend und was deutsche Designer anbelangt gilt dies sowohl für optische Brillen als auch für Sonnenbrillen. Von aufregenden und ungewöhnlichen Formen hin zu trendigen Farben und experimentierfreundlichen Details. Die Brillendesigner präsentierten eine Vielzahl an stark akzentuierten Teilen und alltagstauglichen Styles die sich an jeden Lebensstil und jede Altersgruppe anpassen.

Farben für Jedermann Die Farbentrends im Jahre 2012 waren sehr vielseitig und deutsche Designer boten in ihren Farbpaletten beides an, abenteuerliche aber auch klassische Farben.

Reiz stellten dramatische Farbeffekte bei ihren Sonnenbrillen vor, diese waren gekennzeichnet durch Farbabstufungen von hellgelb bis cappuccino oder hellorange bis graubraun. Die Farben des ausgelassenen PM Frost Labels sind abwechslungsreich und ideenreich mit kräftigen Tönen wodurch hauptsachlich die Hot Glasses Reihe gekennzeichnet ist. Ihre Frost F-Type Kollektion hingegen, kombiniert technische Neuheiten mit hellen Farben für einen modernen Look. Ebenfalls, bietet das PM Frost Label seinen Kunden mindesten acht Standardfarben und mehrere Oberflächen Designs an, so dass, die Klienten ihr Frost F-Type in ihrer gewünschten Farbe aussuchen können. Weitere aufregende Farbinterpretationen wurden auf der MIDO gesehen. In der Mykita/Bernard Willhelm Kollektion findet man verspiegelte Brillengläser die mit hellen Farbtönen kombiniert sind und bei der Freudenhaus Kollektion 46 20/20 Europe

wohingegen es für Frauen eine große Auswahl an umgewandelten Klassikern gibt sowie die Katzenaugen- oder Schmetterlingsbrille, oder auch das Wayfarer Modell sowie die leicht männliche Pilotenbrille.

Zur Zeit sind sowohl Übergrößen als auch kleinere Brillen top aktuell! Vielfalt ist immer ein wichtiges Thema.

Raffinierte Formen Ic! Berlin, der Fachmann für trendige schraubenlose Metallblechbrillen, führte auf der MIDO eine beeindruckende und umfangreiche Auswahl an neuen Stilen vor.

Diese Auswahl an neuen Modellen beinhaltet auch eine sehr feminine Tres Chic Kollektion die sinnliche und provokante Formen aufweist, von kurvigen Rundung hin bis zu sehr trendigen abgewandelten Katzenaugen und dezenten Schmetterlingen.

Im Gegensatz dazu, präsentierte Flair eine Auswahl an luxuriösen randlosen Brillengestellen, die interessante Brillengläser vorweisen, sowie Kombinationen aus verziert geformten Metallgestellen mit einem ausgearbeiteten 3-d Brillenbügel. Hier erkennt man das handwerkliche Geschick und die Zuwendung zum Detail dieses deutschen Labels, dass schon seit einigen Jahren besteht.

Naturgetreu Hörner und Hölzer sind sehr geschätzte Materialien in Deutschland, Österreich und in der Schweiz. Österreichs junge und schnellwachsende Rolf Spectacles sind sogar einen Schritt weiter gegangen, was natürliche Materialien angeht, und haben Brillen aus Holz mit einer Steinoberflache, dass dem Brillengestell einen lebhaften aber doch matten Abschluss geben soll, entwickelt. Rolf’s Skylark 41, das erste handgemachte Modell aus der Woodstone Kollektion, gewann den Red Dot Design Preis 2012. Der Oldtimer, Buick Skylark Convertible, gab die Inspiration für das Brillengestell. Genau wie die ROLF Woodstone Brillen, erwähnt das Unternehmen, war auch der Buick Skylark Convertible in vielerlei Hinsicht ein von Hand gemachtes Auto.

Interesse an Titan Metallrahmen, von Edelstahl bis hin zu den luxuriösen Titandesigns und BetaTitandesigns, sind in den letzten Monaten wieder sehr populär geworden sowohl für Sonnenbrillen als auch für optische Brillen. Auf der MIDO konnte man unter den deutschen Kollektionen eine Fülle an Ideen für Metall entdecken. Einer von den Fachleuten für Titan und innovative Designs ist Markus T., der die Kollektion Titan T2 für 2012 vorstellte. Eine Kollektion, die Reinheit und optische Stärke in sich trägt. Titan T2’s klares Design kombiniert mit einer durchdachten Struktur lässt Brillen entstehen die gewagt aber äußerst bequem sind.

NEUE TRENDS Farben: helle- und Pastelltöne, hochwertige Metallfarben oder Klassiker sowie Stahl oder Edelstahl Materialien: Edelmetalle sind im Moment sehr modern, Acetat (das Material gibt einen Retrolook) hat jedoch durch andere Materialien Konkurrenz bekommen – allerdings schätzen führende deutsche Designer beide Stilrichtungen sehr Formen: für Männer gibt es eine Menge an minimalistischen und coolen Formen

Deutscher Sonderteil Deutschlands Neue Generation Innovation ist das Schlüsselkonzept für den Erfolg der neuen Generation deutscher Optiker. 20/20 Europe sprach mit zwei deutschen Unternehmern der Optikbranche, die Aufschluss über die neue Brillenmode geben, die über die Massen hinausgeht. „Ich bin sehr erfreut über den Fortschritt freier Einzelhändler die ausgewählte unabhängige Labels in Deutschland verkaufen“, erklärt Akram Husseini, Besitzer von Klar, Optikerladen in Darmstadt. „Immer mehr Einzelhändler erkennen, dass es einen Markt gibt in dem individuelle Kunden individuelle Brillenmode sehr begrüßen.

Dieser Markt gibt den freien Händlern die Möglichkeit erfolgreich in diesem Business zu werden, der nun auch sehr konkurrenzfähig geworden ist.“ Klar unterscheidet sich von den anderen durch seine Philosophie, sein Image und seine Aufmachung.

Gelegen in einer Stadt mit 150, 000 Einwohnern, die als die sonnigste Stadt Hessens bezeichnet wird, ist Klar ein Beweis dafür, dass es einen steigenden Trend in Richtung schöngestalteter und stylischer Optikerläden gibt, die zudem auch ausgewählte Designerware aus aller Welt anbieten. „Meine Kunden, die Luxusartikel möchten, sind sehr daran interessiert wie Brillengestelle produziert werden, wo sie produziert werden und wer hinter dem Design steht. Meine Klienten schätzen qualifizierte Arbeit und gut verarbeitete Produkte die eine Gesichte und Herkunft haben. Ebenfalls sind meine Kunden sowohl an der Kreativität des Designs als auch an der Tragfähigkeit des Brillengestells interessiert. Da wir unsere Produkte sehr gut kennen können wir unseren Kunden die ganze Produktionsdurchführung eines Brillengestells beschreiben und somit zei-

gen wir Ihnen unsere Leidenschaft und Engagement für unseren Beruf. Außerdem konzentrieren wir uns immer darauf jedem Kunden eine perfekte und individuelle Beratung bieten zu können.“ Das Klar Team ist auch sehr darauf erpicht seinen Kunden das perfekte Augenpflegeerlebnis auch technisch zu bieten wenn es darum geht ihnen die verschiedenen Schritte bis zum fertigen Brillengestell und seinen Linsen zu erklären. „In meinem Laden haben die Kunden die Möglichkeit dabei zuzuschauen wie ich die Linsen und das Gestell zusammensetze, da sich meine Werkstatt auf derselben Ebene befindet wie der Laden, so dass sie für jeden offen steht.“ Uta Geyer, Inhaberin von Lunettes Selection und Designerin bei Lunettes Kollektion, einem spezialisierten Brillenlabel aus Berlin kann nur zustimmen wenn es darum geht, dass es das Hauptziel sei maßgeschneiderte Designs zu entwickeln um den Bedürfnissen der Kunden vollstens nachzugehen. „Meiner Meinung nach hat sich der deutsche Markt verändert. Wir sehen eine Distanzierung vom Mainstream hin zu einer jungen und innovativen Generation, den sogenannten Boutique Optiker, die mit Leidenschaft und Geschmack individuelle Gestelle anbieten möchten die es nicht so einfach überall zu finden gibt.“ Ansässig in Berlin, legt Lunettes Selection den Focus auf den modischen und stilistischen Aspekt der Brillengestelle.

Die Lunettes Stores führen eine große Auswahl an Modelabels von Geyers eigener Lunettes Kollektion hin bis zu kleineren aktuellen Marken. Ebenfalls findet man in den Lunettes Stores auch außergewöhnliche vintage Stücke, die über viele Jahre hinweg gesammelt wurden. „Meine Mission ist es den Menschen zu helfen, die nach etwas suchen, was sie in einem „Mainstream“ Optikerladen nicht finden können“, erklärt Geyer. „Wir sind dazu da um die Bedürfnisse derer zu erfüllen, die nach etwas individuellem und einzigartigem suchen und nicht nach einer teuren Markenbrille. Ich öffnete meinen ersten Laden weil ich keine passende Brille für mich finden konnte. Um Kleidung zu kaufen ging ich immer in Gebrauchtwarenläden, erstklassigen Secondhandläden oder in privaten Labelboutiquen, aber als es darum ging eine Brille zu kaufen, hatte ich immer Probleme einen passenden Optiker zu finden. Dies legte somit die Grundidee für die Gründung der Lunettes Stores.“ Genau wie Klar, sind die Lunettes Selection Stores raffiniert stylisch eingerichtet und präsentieren somit einen Kontrast zum klassischen Optiker. „In unseren Läden geht es um Fashion und darum das perfekte Model für unsere Kunden zu finden.

Wir bieten ein vollkommen andersartiges Shoppingerlebnis das funktioniert. Die Tatsache, dass ich auch meine eigene Kollektion anbiete hilft sehr, da ich auf die Impulse meiner Kunden reagieren kann und ihnen somit das anbieten kann was sie wünschen. Dabei versuche ich immer dem Geschmack von Massenprodukten zu umgehen.“ KLAR, www.klar-augenoptik.de LUNETTES SELECTION, www.lunettes-selection.de (KLAR Fotos: Florian Schüppel) M AY / J U N E 2 01 2

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