BarberNV Issue 2

INSPIRING UK & IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS

Issue 2. October/November 2015.

£3.95 | €5

Hair For Men Academy

Pat Barry Tom Chapman Darren Jones

David Diggs & Vick the Barber

Dieuwertje Prins U NLOCKING THE SECRETS OF INSTAGR A M SUCCESS WITH KIERON THE BARBER

AMBASSADORS SPECIAL

FT. SID SOTTUNG

@BarberNV_Mag

/BarberNVMagazine

Josh Lamonaca

BarberNVMagazine

NEWS | PRODUCTS | BUSINESS | FEATURES | TR AINING

Tailored to perfection

Legacy 90

Apollo 2

Dainty

GT Sportsman

#tbuk

Image credit: Courtesy of Savills Gentlemens Barbers, Sheffield, England. Featuring Savills bespoke tailored suits. Photographer: Dominic Gregory

Barber classics

Welcome

HELLO AND WELCOME TO THE SECOND ISSUE OF YOUR ALL NEW BI-MONTHLY BARBERING BIBLE, BARBERNV. ANDREW BREWSTER It’s hard to believe the summer is over and it’s already been two months since we unleashed BarberNV into the UK barbering community. We have been inundated with feedback since our launch in August which has been truly overwhelming. There is a real buzz and energy coming from across Britain and Ireland for the magazine.

With issue 1, we really wanted to launch with a bang, all guns blazing. We had some of the top names in UK barbering involved with the likes of Alan Beak and Kevin Luchmun to name a few. It was always going to be a hard act to follow but with issue 2, I think it’s evident we’ve shown that we have a helluva’ lot more in our locker to come.

We are once more privileged to be showcasing some of the top UK talent Young Feds captain Josh Lamonica is our Barber of the Month while following in the footsteps of Hard Grind is über cool deakin & white.

In the months since our first issue, we’ve seen a real unity and movement of barbers coming together to help various charities and raise awareness for a number of fitting causes. We are proud to be able to get involved and give a platform to the likes of the Street Life project and Myles Lewis from the ‘guerrilla Barbering’ team, who are helping homeless people.

Adam Sloan and the MHFed’s ‘Barbers and hairdressers Unite’ Movember campaign, raising funds for men’s health and most recently our rising Star for issue 2, Tom Chapman’s Lions Barber Collective, who, along with PAPYRUS, are hoping to help cut suicide across the UK. Columnist Larry the Barber Man takes BarberNV stateside and interviews two of America’s top barbers in David Diggs and Vick the Barber, while columnist Sid Sottung

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF heads up our artistic director and ambassadors feature, alongside barber of the year Dieuwertje Prins, Ireland’s Pat Barry and Scotland’s Davie The Barber.

Kieron the Barber exclusively unlocks his secrets of Instagram success, Dimitri Matheou takes us behind the Cronus brand and Andrea Tierney explains why you’re never too old to train and become a top barber. Talking of training, award winning Hair For Men Academy is our training academy of the month while Andis educator Darren Jones is our educator of the month.

If that wasn’t enough, we have for you the best and latest products on the market, business advice and tips from some of the most respected industry names useful to any barber, a training directory jam packed with dates from some of the top rated training academies around and so much more.

BarberNV really gives you your fix of everything barbering.

I would like to also give a special mention and congratulations to columnists Robert and Dan Rix who recently won the very deserving gong of Male Grooming Salon of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Business awards, it really is an honour for BarberNV to have you guys, with your wealth of experience involved.

Lastly, on behalf of myself and our cofounder Joanne Reid, I would like to finish up by saying a big thank you to all our writers and everyone behind the scenes that makes BarberNV happen.

We will see you again in December for issue 3 when the sleigh bells start ringing, along with the tills of the Christmas rush!

Stay sharp, Andrew Founders Joanne Reid & Andrew Brewster | Design & Marketing PrintNV | Sales Manager Jenna McIntosh | Editor-in-chief Andrew Brewster | Sub Editor Laura Boyd Sales Support Marc Ross | Social Media Manager Andrew James | Features Writer Ken Hermes, That Little Barber Shop | Columnists Rob & Dan Rix, Larry the Barberman, Sid Sottung Thanks Garry Spencer, The Lions Barber Collective, The British Barbers Association, Adam Sloan, Anthony Copeland & The British Master Barbers, The Hair Council, The MHFed, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Myles Lewis, Liz McKeon, Salon Evolution, First Data Merchant Solutions, Dimitri Matheou, Kevin Hamm, Dan Gregory, Spencer Scissors, Stephen Farrar, The Derry Journal, Hair for Men Academy, Vivid PR, Pickle PR, Seven Publicity, Alison Jameson Consultants | Pictures Shutterstock, Terry Boyd, Alphonso Grose, Mark Shirley Cover Image Creative Director/Hair Stylist: Sid Sottung | Styling Products: Lock Stock & Barrel (England) | Make-up: Ekaterina Tarakanova | Photography: Darya Orlova Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 | Web www.barbernv.co.uk Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 3

News

INDUSTRY NEWS 06 CHARITY NEWS 10 INDUSTRY BODIES 12

Products

EDITOR’S CHOICE 15 STYLING 16 SHAVING, BEARD & MOUSTACHE 18

28 BARBERSHOP OF THE MONTH DEAKIN & WHITE 30 RISING STAR TOM CHAPMAN 32 KIERON THE BARBER INSTAGRAM SUCCESS 34 THE AMBASSADOR SID SOTTUNG

COMBS & BRUSHES 22

36 DAVIE THE BARBER

SCISSORS & THINNERS 23

38 DIEUWERTJE PRINS

WHAT IS YOUR USP? 50 TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL 51 BARBERSHOP MAN BEHIND THE BRAND 52 SALON DEVELOPMENT 54 DAN GREGORY’S 56 MAN MADE SUCCESS

Training

26 BARBER OF THE MONTH JOSH LAMONACA

ELECTRICAL 20

Business

Features

ADAM

SLOAN 62 DARREN JONES 64 HAIR FOR MEN ACADEMY 66

40 PAT BARRY 44 ROBERT RIX - WORDS FROM THE WISE 46 DAVID DIGGS & VICK THE BARBER 49 SCOTTISH BARBERSHOP OF THE YEAR: HOUSE MARTIN 57 BARBERSHOP HEALTH AND SAFETY 58 UNDERSTANDING SCISSORS #2 59 MAINTAINING YOUR BARBER CHAIR 60 ANDREA TIERNEY 61 THE IRISH BARBER SELECT

Contents ISSUE 2 | OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 5

Industry News.

INDUSTRY NEWS. THE BRITISH MASTER BARBERS BARBER OF THE YEAR This is your chance to showcase your talent and become crowned BMB Barber Of The Year 2015.

The winner of the BMB British Barber of the Year will be awarded on stage at Master Barber Live show 2015 on Saturday 1st November 2015. More details at Masterbarberlive.com.

Open to BMB members only, you can enter by emailing your greatest cut image that showcases your barbering skills along with a short biography of your barbering background, along with why you think you should win this title to info@britishmasterbarbers.com.

This competition is Free to enter and open to BMB members only. By submitting your images you are permitting The British Master Barbers to use the images for promotional purposes. The images submitted must be of cuts that are only your own work. You must be available to attend the Master Barber LIVE Show on Sunday 1st November 2015. Closing date: 20th October 2015.

REM-MEN BARBER September sees the launch of Rem-Men, a new brand by REM focussed on supporting Barbering in the UK. Having seen the massive growth in the Barbering movement REM with the help of organisations such as Barber NV, Modern Barber, Professional Barber and the British Barber Association, will be designing new products for the industry styled to suit the retro image prevalent throughout the UK High Street Barber Shops.

Soon Rem-Men will be supported by its own micro site and Twitter page which we invite you all to view and follow. These sites will give the British Barber a chance to view the latest retro product images, take part in Product Design Surveys to help make the products we supply into the industry more practical for today’s Barbers and be part of the Design Process...

Rem-Men, the new kids on the block.

SCARAMOUCHE + FANDANGO ARE LAUNCHING THREE NEW STYLING PRODUCTS TO COMPLETE ITS GROOMING PORTFOLIO: Hair cream: Non sticky, matt finish and light hold styling cream.

Hair clay: Medium hold, extra matt styling clay with pumice powder and conditioning TEGO®.

Hair pomade: Water soluble high shine and strong hold pomade suitable for all hair types.

The three products are all fragranced with Scaramouche + Fandango’s signature scent and are made in the UK.They retail at £12.

6 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Savills Barbers has been working recently with the fashion brand Dr. Martens and have invited us to support them at the Rebellion festival in Blackpool.

Rebellion, now in its nineteenth year, is a four day experience with its roots in the punk rock and alternative music scene. It is currently the largest independent punk and alternative music festival in the entire world. It promises to bring in some of the best names in the punk rock scene, including: Robert-Jan Rietveld, aka Bertus, from Schorem in Rotterdam, Frank Rimer from Thy Barber in London and, last but certainly not least, Jelle, aka Grand Master Flash.

The man from behind Savills Joth Davies, had wanted to join up for an event with his Schorem friend for quite some time. Unfortunately, time constraints prevented it until now. Fortunately, with the help of Dr. Martens, they could finally get together to realize this goal - Joth stated that he had so much fun that he could not stop laughing throughout the event. Savills Barbers has granted support by loaning the superb Apollo 2 barbering chair for the event hosted by Takara Belmont UK. Belmont coming out to support Rebellion cement their dedication and commitment to the barbering community. Their stand provided hair cuts to the participants as well to show their support and helped make Rebellion that much more fun and stylish. Even as traditionalists in the barbering scene, along with the traditionalist Dr Martens, they came together for the festival that is its own tradition.

Industry News.

FIRST EVER GOVERNMENT COMMITTEE DEDICATED TO THE HAIR INDUSTRY The Hair Council are thrilled to announce the first ever All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on hair has taken place in the House of Commons. This first meeting saw MPs from across all the main parties meeting together under the chairmanship of Shadow Minister Nia Griffiths MP. Barber John McNally MP from the SNP was elected Vice Chair and has very strong opinions on the need for professionalism throughout the hair industry.

Registrar of the Hair Council, Sally Styles, said she was “really happy that this major step towards the UK Government taking the hair industry seriously was finally a reality”.

Sally, along with Hair Council Political Director Shirley Davis-Fox MBE and Parliamentary Lobbying specialists Connect Communications, have set up the new APPG to enable important subjects close to the heart of the UK hairdresser or barber to be discussed. Such subjects as minimum wage, apprentices and VAT will be looked at as well as the need to professionalise the whole industry through registration.

For all those hairdressers and barbers in the UK who are already registered and supporting the Hair Council, this is a major step forward and they can be proud that it was their support that helped create this new initiative. For everyone else, if you’ve ever thought about becoming registered – surely now is the time to do so.

To find out more information about the Hair Council visit www.haircouncil.org.uk or call 020 8760 7010 where one of the team will be able to assist.

WAHL TO LAUNCH THE SMARTEST NEXT GENERATION CLIPPER AND TRIMMER Wahl is set to launch the most technologically advanced clipper for the professional market - the Li+ Pro².

The cordless Li+ Pro² features a smart electronic display, an intelligent design and uses outstanding Lithium-Ion technology, making it the most hightech clipper available for professional barbers.

The Li+ Pro²’s smart display is user-friendly, providing professionals with the data they need.

Barbers will no longer need to estimate when their clipper needs cleaning or oiling - clear icons on the smart-display let them know of the necessary action to take.

The display also shows precise battery capacity, has a charging icon and shows the level of speed in operation.

Simon Shaw, European Artistic Director, Wahl (UK) Ltd. commented, “we are proud to launch the Li+ Pro² - the smartest and most versatile clipper to enter the professional market.

New features, combined with advanced LithiumIon technology, mean this clipper is set to change the dynamics of clippers available to professional barbers.”

The lightweight Li+ Pro² is highly versatile with 3 available speeds to suit different hair types and individuality. Speed 1 operates at 4,100rpm, which is an ideal setting for cutting delicate hair (such as children or older clients); the clipper operates quietly with minimal vibrations through this function. Speed 2

(operating at 5,200rpm) suits most adult hair types, providing a powerful cutting performance.

Speed 3 operates at a faster 5,800rpm, and is ideal for afro hair or thick hair, cutting all hair first time. The Li+ Pro²’s chip-controlled motor provides constant and consistent speed throughout all available speed functions.

Lithium-Ion battery technology provides the Li+ Pro² with exceptional run and charge times which are superior to most professional clippers. The speed functions operate for 90 to 120 minutes from a 60 minute charge, depending on the speed selected.

The Li+ Pro² is the perfect clipper for barbers who love the newest gadgets and technology. Wahl is further enhancing this product with the accompanying launch of the Li+ Pro² Mini hair trimmer as an optional component.

“The Li+ Pro² Mini hair trimmer is an excellent addon to the Li+ Pro² clipper, transforming the hair styling experience”, said Simon Shaw. He went on to say “the Wahl Li+ Pro² range offers revolutionary new product development, and we are thrilled to be introducing it to professionals.”

The Li+ Pro² Mini is cordless and weighs just 120g and has similar features to its hair clipper counterpart, minus the smart-display. LithiumIon technology provides it with a 90 minute run time from a 30 minute charge. The Li+ Pro² Mini also features a new improved efficient motor.

Li+ Pro² Clipper will be available October 2015 SSP £169.99 Ex. VAT. Li+ Pro² Mini Trimmer will be available October 2015 SSP £109.99 Ex. VAT.

SALON INTERNATIONAL Salon International is back on the 10-12 of October at ExCeL in London. With so much to see and do at Salon International, it’s sometimes difficult to know where to start and how to make the most of your time at the event.

But rest assured there are many great products and services, practical solutions that you can benefit from whilst you’re at the show, ensuring you’re saving time as well as money, and that’s before we even start thinking about the education and inspiration available at every turn.

If you want to attend you will have to order them online from www.salonexhibitions.co.uk, 3 day tickets are £55 and single day tickets are £26.40 BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 7

Industry News.

BRITISH BARBERS’ ASSOCIATION AND THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE ANNOUNCE RETURN OF BRITAIN’S BEST SHAVE EVENT SET TO BE BIGGER AND BETTER THAN EVER BEFORE The British Barbers’ Association and premium men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge have announced the much anticipated return of iconic wet shaving competition, Britain’s Best Shave.

Following the unprecedented success of this year’s event, 2016’s offering is set to be bigger and better than ever before, with spectators once again invited to watch the final round unfold at Barber UK, which takes place at the Birmingham NEC in May 2016.

Entries are now open for the competition, with regional heats kicking off early next year. All preliminary rounds will take place at branches of Sally’s Salon Services around the country, with ten highest scoring barbers from across England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales going on to compete for the title at the live final.

The competition has proved to be a huge success since launching back in 2013, with over 200 barbers turning out to show off their razor-

sharp skills in their local heats for the past two years.

Current champion Luigi Caterino, of The Italian Job Barbershop in Galashiels, claimed the coveted title of Britain’s Best Wet Shaving Barber for 2014 after blowing away the judges with his impeccable skills, and it is expected that he will return to defend his title for 2016.

Mike Taylor, director of the British Barbers’ Association, said that the increasing number of barbers queuing up to showcase their skills

Barbers looking to enter the competition should visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/bestshave2016

THE COMPANY OF MASTER BARBERS WINS MALE GROOMING SALON OF THE YEAR AT HJ’S BRITISH HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS AWARDS This years HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards announced The Company of Master Barbers as a winner at a spectacular Award Ceremony held in the Lancaster London Hotel, adjacent to Hyde Park. Picking up the title Male Grooming Salon of the Year, they were was one of 17 winners recognised and rewarded for being the very best within the industry.

The Company of Master Barbers collated all their evidence to enter an award winning dossier that followed strict criteria and requested hard evidence of success.

Making a lasting impression on the panel of respected judges, the award entry secured them a place on the list of prestigious winners.

Now in their 17th year, the British Hairdressing Business Awards are a 8 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

was evidence of rising standards, as well as increased popularity of the profession.

“Over the past two years, we’ve seen more and more young people choosing to enter the industry, which is a really positive thing. More competition makes it inevitable that barbers will strive to improve their skills to the highest standard they can, and we expect the 2016 competition to reflect that.”

Nick Gibbens, PR and Marketing Manager for The Bluebeards Revenge, added: “We received a high number of entries for this year’s competition, and whittling it down to the final few turned out to be a tougher call than expected. We’re hoping that those who narrowly missed out on making the final will have gone away and really honed their skills, so combine those with our new entrants and it should make for a really unpredictable and exciting competition.”

highlight in the industry calendar. Hosted by Executive Director of Hairdressers Journal International, Jayne Lewis-Orr and TV Presenter, Gethin Jones, Jayne commented, “Each year the judges’ job gets harder as entries become more sophisticated. They should be proud of their achievement and I am sure they will continue to work to raise the standard and profile of British hairdressing.”

The evening began with a Champagne reception allowing finalists, guests, sponsors and industry professionals to network before being called to dinner. When The Company of Master Barber’s name was announced during the awards ceremony they took to the stage where they proceeded to thank everyone for their support.

BarberNV are proud to have Rob and Dan Rix of C.O.M.B as columnists each issue.

AUTHENTIC BARBERING WITH ATTITUDE! Heritage brand Vines Vintage has created a revolutionary range of traditionally inspired barbering products that deliver authentic results with attitude!

Global Industry Analysts Inc. estimate that the male grooming industry’s net worth is set to hit a whopping £29.4 billion by 2020. These statistics indicate trend-led gents from Mad Men to hipsters will settle for nothing less than classic barbering techniques with a contemporary edge.

This essential range of grooming, styling and finishing products provides the complete tool kit for creating strong, eclectic looks with sharp results.

Offering ease of use and outstanding finish, Vines Vintage products achieve classic effects whilst benefiting from the foremost in advanced formulation. Offering luxury, results-driven products containing natural derivatives,Japonica Seed Oil offers moisturisation whilst Carnuaba Wax brings the benefit of its hypoallergenic properties.

The quintessential modern man does not compromise on style - Vines Vintage doesn’t believe he should have to compromise on attitude!

Industry News.

THE WAHL PROFESSIONAL BRITISH BARBER OF THE YEAR FINALISTS ANNOUNCED Finalist to compete on stage at Salon International on Saturday 10th October 2015.

• • • • • • • •

MEMBERS NIGHT IMPRESSES A SOLD OUT AUDIENCE Wella Studios in London recently hosted their second Members Night of the year.

This bi-annual event was compered by David Drew, who after a warm welcome by President Bruno Marc, introduced the night reminding everyone, “you are our members and this is your night of creative excellence”.

First on stage was TH1 who showcased a Cyber Punk collection inspired by the film Fifth Element. Ben Madle from Headhunters also took to the stage with part of the Pure collection and was then followed by Birmingham’s Marchella International with their bohemian inspired looks and Gavin and Ella with their Porcelain collection from G&E McIntyre in Northampton.

David Drew then welcomed Johnny BaBa from Barber Barber to the stage. Inspired by “anti-establishment” and “non-conformity” for his Mental collection, bold masculine square shapes and internal structures were at the heart of his looks. Bruno Marc returned to the stage to welcome special guest Akin Konizi for an insightful interview that provided a glimpse into his career.

Akin revealed growth is what keeps his staff at HOB motivated and in turn drives him forward. Award winning Akin spoke honestly about his surprise at winning London Hairdresser of the year in 2005 and the importance of inspiring others.

Bruno Marc closed the evening and said, “The presentations were incredible and it has been one of the best Members Nights I have seen in a long time. A huge thank you to our sponsors and our backstage team for making this sold out event so brilliant.”

Miguel Gutierrez Jack Robinson Pullen Paul Mac Tom Chapman Davie Walker Bobby Freedman Sandra Perovic Jamie Dunning

The winner will have the opportunity to stay on stage with the Artistic Team, choose £500 worth of Wahl products and of course receive the trophy.

MASTER BARBER DAVID CRAIG CROWNED BEST IN NORTHERN IRELAND A Derry barber has been crowned the best in Northern Ireland. Master Barber David Craig, founder of the Derry Barber Company in Great James Street in the city, was awarded the prestigious title of Best Male Stylist at the inaugural Northern Ireland Hair and Beauty Awards held in the Europa Hotel, Belfast.

Speaking after receiving his award, David said he was “really humbled and honoured” to be presented with the prestigious title and to bring it to Derry.

He added: “Aside from opening my traditional barber shop setting in 2013, this award has to be one of the highlights of my career to date.

“I have been barbering for 25 years now in Derry and I would like to dedicate this award to all of my loyal customers who have allowed me to practice my passion professionally on a daily basis.

“I would also like to dedicate this award to my team of skilled barbers in the Derry Barber Company who have shared my passion for excellence in the traditional craft of barbering and male grooming.

I am delighted that my endeavors have been recognised in this way and to be an ambassador for this historic and extremely rewarding profession.”

DAPPER DAN BARBERSHOP Suppliers of tonsorial-teasing Pastes and Pomades, Dapper Dan Ltd are now on the hunt for a Barber/Manager to head up a team at their flagship barbershop, in Sheffield city centre.

Opening in October, Dapper Dan Barbershop is a cool and quirky little place, where the focus is firmly on customer care, quality cuts

and premium product advice. Backed by the already renowned global brand, this little place is bound to offer a unique feel and atmosphere.

If you think you have what it takes to drive this new venture forward, and are experienced in all aspects of modern and traditional barbering, please apply directly to info@dapperdanuk.com.

Barbershop

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 9

Charity News.

GUERRILLA BARBERING INSIDE EVERY BARBERNV

THE STREET LIFE PROJECT GUERRILLA BARBERING BarberNV caught up with James Willcock, who is embarking on a mission to spread barber love among the homeless across the UK with “The Street Life Project.”

James set up the popular Facebook group Barber Banter earlier this year and is now looking to use the group as a platform to bring barbers together across the UK to help the Homeless.

Putting down his clippers to chat to us, James explained: “Homelessness effects 1 in 10 people across the UK for various different reasons. The idea behind The Street Life Project is to bring barbers across the UK together to work either on the streets or to open their doors on a Sunday morning or after normal trading hours to invite those less fortunate than ourselves in for a haircut and beard trim.

The response to the event so far has been amazing but to make it a success we need more people to get involved.”

James also told us about the need for sponsors to make the event a success.

“In order for The Street Life Project to be a success we need input from not only individuals but companies too. We have already secured the sponsorship from Wahl and are currently in talks with Dear Barber, who are keen to help us out too. In return for being a sponsor, the companies who get involved will get as much publicity as we can provide through our social media groups, local and regional media who have already shown an interest in supporting the event and at the grand finale charity dinner, which in itself will be a great place to showcase their products or brand.”

Sound like an event you could get involved in? James can be contacted via email - james@thestreetlifeproject.co.uk

10 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Recently you may have heard of a new movement happening within the Barber industry in the UK: “Help the homeless.

Improving the image of the less fortunate.” Well, we are going to let you know who we are and how we came about...

Guerrilla Barbering is the brain child of Myles Lewis, a barber working out of Exile in Essex and this is his account.

One day I had a thought; ‘how can I help others with the skill set I have? How can I improve the profile our Barbering in our country?’

Then it hit me: cut hair on the streets of London for free. If anyone tips me, I will put that money aside and at the end of the day buy some grub and hand it out to the less fortunate who needed a meal. Low risk and a bit of fun and it may make someone smile that day.

From this initial idea, I spoke to my (now co-founder) Luke Hammond and we devised a plan to use social media to see if anyone else wanted to get involved. We thought this was a great idea and we were sure others would love to jump on board.

From this point onwards, our little event on the streets snowballed beyond belief, securing sponsorships from Wahl and Uppercut, initially.

From there we went to Barber UK in the NEC on a mission to recruit barbers and spread the word of Guerrilla. We managed to secure a few more sponsors on the day and we had people approaching us to get involved along with a brilliant array of contacts to build from.

We then recruited two extremely talented barbers in the form of Chris Austin (Old Leigh Barbers – Essex) and Sam Campagna, (Alternative Barbering Co -St Albans / Harpenden).

With their help we have taken the Guerrilla Barbering movement to a new level and have experienced an amazing amount of support.

Together we raised money for a pop up shop in Shoreditch for a one day only event based on the original idea I came up with. From this point we decided to donate all the money raised to Crisis.

About the event…

The day started on Friday the 14th of August 2015. Myles and Luke were on the road by 5.30am heading to meet Chris in Brentwood and travel into the city to get this event going. Sam and our superstar helper Greg were also en route to meet us there.

We got to our destination at about 7.30am on a dreary, wet morning, determined to make this day an absolute hit.

At 10.00am pretty much everyone was ready and set up to go. Andis’ PR company were in the shop taking some stills and getting their haircut. Customers started coming through the door and the PA system was pumping. We had Larry the Barber Man buzzing around interviewing everyone, London Live came down and recorded a piece for their news broadcast and Ken from That Little Barber Shop was also taking snaps and networking with everyone.

From 10am that Friday morning, till 10pm the same night, we were constantly busy, with customers from all walks of life. We had every barober going hammer and tong, trying to make everyone happy.

All we asked was for a donation towards the haircut they had just received, if they could afford to do so.

We had local shops bringing in food and some of our sponsors who were there on the day popping in with goodies helping fuel everyone who was cutting and shaving.

All in all, the day was a brilliant success! We had people from all over the country which really proved the following we have created and the dedication our volunteers have, not just for our profession but for the greater good, which for us, as a movement, is really humbling. We are going to be at the following events on these dates.

British Master Barbers Live (On Stage) 1/10/15 – Adora Hotel, Crawley The Great British Barber Bash (With Dapper Dan) 4/10/15 – Camp & Furnace, Liverpool.

Salon International (With Scissor Hands) 10/10/15 – 12/10/15 – Excel London.

Charity News.

THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE The Lions Barbers Collective hopes to help cut young suicide across the UK September 10 was World Suicide Prevention Day and to mark this, a group of top UK barbers announced a new initiative, which aims to help national charity PAPYRUS Prevention of Young Suicide in its work to reduce the number of young suicides in the UK. Shockingly, suicide is the main cause of death in young people under 35: over 1,600 take their own lives every year. Three quarters of them are young men.

One man who wants to help change this statistic is Tom Chapman, whose salon Tom Chapman Hair Design is in Torquay. Tom formed The Lions Barbers Collective, to raise awareness that there is hope for young men who feel they are not coping with life.

But how can barbers help?

Men often confide in their barbers with matters they wouldn’t discuss with their friends, families or partners.

Tom explained: “I feel my clients trust in me to

share any problems or troubles they are having in their life and many have done so in the past.

“As barbers we are therefore in a unique position to encourage our clients to seek help and indeed help them to find it. For example PAPYRUS HOPELineUK helpline services are confidential and anonymity is respected. Young men – and women - can call, text or email for support and where necessary work with the charity’s trained advisors to form a safe plan.”

Having lost an old friend to suicide, Tom is well aware that it is all too frequently a taboo subject. “The Lions Barbers Collective wants to encourage men to talk about it. Only then will we shatter the stigma.”

Using the trust barbers build with their clients, Tom explained: “I feel if we can be trained to recognise the signs of depression and other causes of suicide, we will be able to help people out and save some lives.

“Today I had someone message me saying

that they had a client come into their shop just before New Year’s Eve and then every year, at the same time, he’d come in with a bottle of Champagne for them with his haircut.

“He later told them that after that first visit he had planned to commit suicide, but after his appointment and conversation with the barber, he decided against it and it was down to them, hence the bottle of champagne every New Year’s Eve. “Hopefully we will be able to help more people like this.”

The Lions also have a secret weapon, in the form of X Factor Hair Stylist, Jamie Stevens.

Proceeds from the lookbook will go to PAPYRUS and here at BarberNV, we have to commend the team involved.

For information or if you would like to contact PAPYRUS, visit www.papyrus-uk.org or call 0800 068 41 41.

We at BarberNV feel that this is an incredible cause. The Lion’s Collective lookbook will have work featuring some of the top barbers in the UK, including; Tom Chapman, Warren Flynn, Will “Black Moth” Ward, Jay Murray, Kieron Price, La Luka Chitty, Micky Graham, Neal Toner, Nick Hadley, Pat Barry, Paul Mac, Phil Jarman, Rhys Green, Ryan Cullen, Alan Beak, Baldy, Brian Hackett, Conor Taaffe, Darren Jones, Darryn Pitman, Davie Walker, Dieuwertje Prins, Gary Devane, Greg Mcerlane, Harry Green, Jac Ludlow and Tenneille English.

BARBERS AND HAIRDRESSERS UNITE Adam Sloan of Mhfed and James Beattie of Barbers of Modern Britain have teamed up with Just Giving & The Movember Foundation to raise much needed money and awareness for Prostate Cancer UK and Men’s Health including Testicular Cancer, poor mental health and physical inactivity.

These charity’s are very near & dear to Adam and James. We are asking Barber shops & hairdressing salons throughout the UK to raise funds right up until the end of November. We have made a cash raffle prize available on the Just Giving page and special treats on the Movember Foundation fund raising page.

We have the backing of lots of industry legends and in particular Lee Stafford, previous winner of Men’s British Hairdresser of the year, supports us with our drive to succeed in our efforts. Please help us save lives and contribute in any way you can. If you would like our posters please contact info@mhfed.com.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 11

Industry Bodies.

THE HAIR COUNCIL’S VISION For all hairdressers and barbers to be qualified to a professional standard before practising on the public.

Who is the Hair Council: The Hair Council is the statutory body within the hairdressing and barbering industries, backed by the 1964 Act of Parliament to keep the register of qualified hairdressers. It’s a notfor-profit organisations and funded solely by registration fees and corporate sponsorship.

Reasons for believing in registration: Registration for all hairdressers and barbers will help to: • Stop unfair competition to those who are operating professional businesses properly, paying taxes, a living wage and ensuring all staff have adequate on-going training • Raise standards across the industry • Ensure consumer protection • Raise the profile of the industry in the eyes of the Government, school teachers and parents.

Quick facts about the hairdressing and barbering industries: • Hairdressing is worth 6 billion to the economy • 1% of the UK workforce • The industry is mainly made up of micro businesses • Hairdressing has the highest proportion of workers on the National Minimum Wage for any industry

THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING Why become a State Registered Hairdresser or Barber?

Earn RESPECT from your peers in the trade that you have made the effort to register and are proud to have the initials SRH or SRB after your name.

Offer REASSURANCE to your clients and future clients that you have qualifications, experience and skills to deliver a service which will make them look and feel good Gain public RECOGNITION that you are a professional and not a rogue trader.

Registration indicates that you are bona fide with the necessary insurance cover in place to protect clientele.

Who supports registration for hairdressers and barbers?

All hair and barber industry organizations have pledged their support as well as top named celebrities, the 7000 registered hairdressers, manufacturers, wholesalers, a growing number of MPs and the industry press.

Who is Eligible to become registered?

Hairdressers and barbers who have their Level 2 qualifications plus two years’ experience or can provide evidence of six years’ experience.

How to register: Register online by visiting www.haircouncil.org. uk or by contacting the Hair Council on 020 8760 7010 for a form. It costs £42 a year – just £0.80p per week. The Hair and Barber Councils – the voice of British Hairdressing and Barbering.

MEET THE MHFED The Men’s Hairdressing Federation, or MHFed as it is better known, was formed in 2013 in Essex by award winning hairdresser Adam Sloan.

MHFed is a not for profit organisation that works within the inspiration sector of the hair industry, creating highly sought after and acclaimed editorial for leading industry publications.

One of their first shoots, ‘In God We Trust’, created in 2014, went on to be published in ten magazines across Europe.

MHFed’s platform artists perform at sold out hair shows up and down the UK “to embrace, inspire and connect all side of the hairdressing / barbering industry”, and it’s certainly proving a success.

Over the next year, they will showcase their skills in front of 50,000 people at trade shows.

It’s all about the numbers as in the two 12 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

years since forming, they have seen their

social media following rocket to 80,000 fans.

MHFed also have a loyal following on YouTube, attracting over 100,000 views – a figure which is growing rapidly day by day.

As well as launching MHFeds Electricals and a grooming range, the Federation also works tirelessly to support rising stars within the industry, with the ‘Young Feds’ competition and events.

They also do a great deal of charity work, largely supporting prostate cancer charities.

MHFed put together the ‘RAW’ a look book with proceeds going towards prostate cancer, launching the book in June this year at Barber Connect in Wales.

An incredibly valuable Federation within the barbering industry and one which we can’t wait to see what they do next.

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is continuing to grow in stature and this month has seen even more successful events added to the calendar which are continuing to be eagerly attended. A non-political and extraordinary organisation that actively supports talented individuals within the industry and aims to represent the top 10%. Workshops and presentation evenings provide the education and business seminars explore the management initiatives while also encouraging networking opportunities.

An organisation run by members for members supported by an elected team of industry experts that donate their time and their knowledge for the benefit of others. Bruno Marc recently took the role as The Fellowship’s President and alongside the Council he continues to share his passion and is regularly in attendance at Fellowship events (when he isn’t cycling from London to Paris raising money for charity).

This year has seen those from the barbering community recognising the work of The Fellowship and workshops have been attended by barbers wanting to explore other creative avenues.

October welcomes Salon International to Excel and The Fellowship stage has an action packed schedule of upcoming talent and top names. This year will see Johnny Shanaham and the B.O.M.B. Squad alongside these for an existing line up and promises to be another show not to be missed. This is a chance to see some top barbers demonstrating some fantastic skills and it is also your opportunity to visit The Fellowship team at their membership stand T270 to find out how you can be part of something fantastic.

A northern membership drive has seen the expansion of members in the north and the demand for more events outside of London has seen the addition of more dates to their calendar.

November welcomes their first Scottish date with a fantastic line up at The Voodoo Rooms in Edinburgh on Monday 2nd November. Alan Findlay from Rebel Rebel will be presenting his expertise at this exciting new event reinstating the recognition Barbering is receiving within the industry. Again this is a great opportunity to find out more about this fantastic organisation with big names attending who will be answering questions on the memberships available and assisting with any questions you might have.

With projects including the F.A.M.E. Team, ClubStar, Project X, and Colour Project there are also opportunities to join tailored educational programmes providing unique workshops and mentoring days that develop existing skills and expertise.

Keeping up to date with their news is easy and you can find lots more information at www.fellowshiphair.com

Industry Bodies.

THE BRITISH MASTER BARBERS This paragraph should be like: The British Master Barbers Alliance, now commonly known as the BMB, is a non profit organisation that was created by Tony and Anthony Copeland - a father and son team who over the years have worked in all aspects of the barbering industry, from teaching, session styling, TV, movie and celebrity barbering, to running their busy award winning barbershop The Golden Scissors in Surrey.

They teamed up with various professionals who are currently at the top of their game to produce a wealth of experience in a range of Barbering related subjects. This includes a group of highly skilled multi award winning Barbers, Barbershop owners, Teachers, Lecturers, Assessors, Educators, Trichologists, Session stylists, & Barber Academy owners around the UK. We are here to support established skilled Barbershops an area usually missed, by offering many services to help barbershops and skilled barbers promote their work, promote their shops and inspire up and coming talent. We have also been awarding uk barbers who have offered large contributions to British barbering.

WHAT ARE WE TRYING TO ACHIEVE? This team effort hopes to merge its efforts & cooperate for the specific purpose to promote & enhance the work of established British Barbers and Barbershops. We believe professional barbershops can keep their standards high enough to stand out from the unskilled discount shops opening all over the country.

We aim to support the British barbers that show enthusiasm for the industry in both improving

this again is a first for UK barbering. We include a press release to send to local newspapers and other media on successful accreditation completion this offers further promotion of business within a members local area.

MYSTERY SHOPPING?

their businesses and achieving recognition for the effort and dedication they put into the craft of barbering. Run by real, time-served barbers, we want to help give something back to the industry. Together we can show the public that by using a British Master barber member they’re in safe, competent, skilled hands.

WHY BECOME A MEMBER OF BMB? All our members are enthusiastic professional barbers who wish to push themselves and their business further. Being a member of British Master Barbers is a sign for the customer to trust and we use mystery shopping verification methods which are a first for UK barbering to help us guarantee a good experience for the customer.

Our members are also promoted via our huge social media platform and now can be added to the Good barbershop Guide website for free.

These have proved to be the most favourable methods of promotion with many views. Our Accreditation has also been very popular. its not just an award thats sold ‘its earned’. All of our Accredited members are fully checked and visually examined thoroughly before completion,

The BMB has its own team of mystery shoppers that cover the country regularly stopping of at members barbershops. If certain areas do not meet the the levels we have set we contact the owners with suggestions and advice to raise the bar.

HOW IS THE BMB FUNDED? The BMB is mostly funded by the founders who have been lucky enough to have made successful careers within the barbering industry and now feel its time to give back to the industry that has supported them.

WHATS PLANNED FOR THE FUTURE? We have so much planned to continue helping barbers. Firstly after an amazing year with so much support we are holding our first birthday show Master Barber LIVE where we will be trying to bring the industry together for a day of barber filled fun. We aim to create more free services like our Barber job adverts page which has proved very popular and show a high demand for Barber staff around the UK. With over 32.000 followers on Instagram we have managed to help barbers promote their cuts and collections with great results and we will continue to push more up and coming UK talent. www.britishmasterbarbers.com.

BRITISH BARBERS ASSOCIATION Supporting barbers, male grooming salons and men’s hairdressers across the country, the British Barbering Association (BBA) is the leading association for the barbering industry in the UK. The BBA works with governmentappointed organisations and agencies to ensure the development of high-quality training and qualifications that meet the industry’s needs.

Mission Statement With now over 8000 members, we are the voice for British Barbers. We want to help raise standards and awareness of our beautiful trade and get us all licensed.

Vision Statement We are all licensed and all professional trades people, we charge what we are a worth and seen as a trade that take time to perfect.

What We Do Raising standards - The BBA was formed to help raise barbering standards in the UK and around the world.

Accreditation Scheme - This scheme was launched in the interests of both the industry and the public. It shows that barber shops that meet the criteria have the minimum standards

What the BBA have planned over the next year!

Salon International - Stage demonstrations taking place across the whole 3 days by some of the leading names in barbering education BBA Network & Workshops Event 2015 within the industry to trade and gives barbers more credibility and recognition for their commitment to professionalism.

State Registration - The BBA help form the Barber Council and shares the same vision as its parent organisation - the Hair Council: the introduction of mandatory state registration of all hairdressers and barbers.

Training - The BBA has designed a range of top quality training courses from beginner to advanced, delivered by some of Britain’s best barbering educators in the UK. Competitions - Bringing together the elite of British Barbering to compete to be crowned Britain’s Best, including the renowned Student Barber of the Year competition, BBA Masters and Britain’s Best Shave - battled out in the ring.

Held at London Barber Surgeons Hall for some of our Accredited members London Congress - Stage demonstrations will be taking place for the 2 day event by some of the leading names in barbering education Scottish Barber UK - Scottish Barber of the Year and Britain’s Master Fader Competitions will be held here Barber UK - Held at the NEC with Britain’s Best Shave and Patterns Master in the boxing ring as well as Britain’s longest serving and biggest barbering completion - The National Student Barber of the Year and the BBA Masters competitions.

For more information, please visit www.britishbarbers.com BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 13

ProductNV.

For issue 2 we’ve been working closely alongside some of the UK’s most skilled barbers, trialling and experimenting with some of the latest products to hit the barbering market whilst also paying homage to a selection of favoured tools and weapons that should be part of any barbers arsenal.

Here’is a selection of my favourite products this issue. Enjoy, Andrew.

The Adria II Vines Vintage Beard Oil A luxurious beard oil that will become an integral part of the beard grooming process to hydrate the hair and skin whilst aiding in the creation of a natural, defined style.

Infused with Jojoba to soothe and replenish the skin whilst Sweet Almond Oil, rich with Magnesium, helps to moisturise and improve hair quality. £7.00 www.vines-vintage.com

Takara Belmont’s Adria styling chair has been a global best seller since it was first introduced in 1971. Now this legendary chair has been finessed with upgrades and refinements including a fibreglass, highgloss scratch resistant backrest shell, premium upholstery and colour coordinated protective cover options.

PAO - www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

Li+ Pro² Clipper Wahl is set to launch the most technologically advanced clipper for the professional market - the Li+ Pro². The cordless Li+ Pro² features a smart electronic display, an intelligent design and uses Lithium-Ion technology, making it the most high-tech clipper available for barbers. Barbers will no longer need to estimate when their clipper needs cleaning or oiling - clear icons on the smart-display let them know of the necessary action to take.

Li+ Pro² Clipper £169.99 www.wahlglobal.com

Andis Slimline Pro Li Cordless trimmer Slimline Pro is stylish and easy to handle, as well as being faster and more powerful. Easy-clean stainless steel trimmer blades, that can be zero gapped, deliver precision cutting whilst its Lithium battery ensures uninterrupted performance for up to two hours! £59.99 - www.andis.com

Dapper Dan Matt Paste Matt Paste is the flagship product from the Dapper Dan styling range, and is fast becoming known as the best matt effect product on the market today. You can do anything with this stuff! Neat comb over, short and messy, textured long layers, this product fits the bill.

RRP £11.95 www.dapperdanuk.com

OSMO® Matt Sea Spray OSMO® Matt Sea Spray is all about the California dreaming’ Use Matt Sea Salt Spray to evoke the surfer dude in you and rock the beachy look. Matt Sea Spray is a Mattifying texturiser that can be used in the hair wet or dry to give you gritty and messed up hair. £8.99 - www.osmo.uk.com

The Black Sabbath Designed with an anatomic thumb set to provide full range of motion in the wrist, the performance of these scissors is of the highest.

Lightweight and perfectly balanced, the Black Sabbath excels with blunt or point cutting techniques in wet or dry hair. £345 - www.matakki.com BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 15

ProductNV.

Styling Hard Muk Styling Mud With its brutal hold the hard MUK Styling Mud is a salon styling favourite. With its Citrus orange fragrance, Matte, low sheen finish and flexible hold this is certainly a hair styling product you should own for styling short hair. The Hard MUK is resistant to humidity, never flakes and is Water soluble. £10.95 - www.mukme.com

Mojo Hair Clay

OSMO® corruptor

Rough up your style with Mojo Hair Clay, a medium hold product perfect for separating hair and giving it a matte texture making it ideal for deconstructed and ‘undone’ hair styles. Made in Great Britain, this styling clay will make your hair appear thicker by adding volume and texture to it. £14 - www.mojo-style.com

Prepare to be led astray with this infamous product. This is the ultimate corrupting cream for a long lasting versatile hold. It has a light cream texture with a gentle fragrance and creates volume and fullness with a firm hold. £4.99 - www.osmo.uk.com

GO24•7 Mint Thickening Shampoo With the grooming lines signature scent of ginseng and macadamia nut, this menthol infused shampoo stimulates hair growth, while honey aids cell rejuvenation. Using coconut derived cleansing agents, the entire range is sulphate, paraben and sodium chloride free! £12.50 - www.go247men.com

Hair Bond Structure Shampoo & Conditioner DUO This innovative duo from Hairbond work together to give you revitalised, full of body hair with a silky soft texture. With an alluring vanilla and pineapple scent, your hair will smell just as good as it feels. Deeply nourishing, this shampoo and conditioner will give dull, limp hair a new lease of life. £19.98 www.hairbond.co.uk

Vines Vintage Maxi-Gum The ultimate gum formula with maximum hold. Can be used to achieve extreme styles or the polished look. This fast setting gum with subtle gloss will hold firm throughout the day. Enhanced with a zesty, invigorating scent, this long lasting styling gum creates and shapes with minimal effort. £5.00 - www.vines-vintage.com

Uppercut Deluxe Pomade Uppercut Deluxe Pomade gives you a strong hold with the right amount of shine which doesn’t dry out; this Pomade really does have it all. The best bit – it washes out with absolutely no fuss. Uppercut Deluxe Pomade was designed for the discerning kinda guy who has a particular style in mind. Perfect for timeless, classic looks such as high pompadours, side parts or slick-back sides. £16 - www.uppercutdeluxe.com

16 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

ProductNV.

Introducing the styling range For trade enquiries contact the team on 020 7112 5168 or email info@scaramoucheandfandango.com www.scaramoucheandfandango.com | @Scaramouche_UK

HIGH QUALITY

. NEOCAPE .

Hair Products

The Evolution of The Hairdressing Gown

Our soft and supple Neoprene collar creates a comfortable seal against the skin that stops hair and liquids from going down the neck. This is more comfortable during and after your cut.

Available from various barber suppliers or direct from us

w w w. n e o c a p e . c o . u k 01243 573417

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 17

ProductNV.

Shaving, Beard & Moustache Captain Fawcett Eau de Parfum (CF.8836) Original Discover fresh top notes of bergamot and mandarin yielding to an exotic spicy thread of cardamon and coriander, displayed against a backdrop of vanilla, sandalwood & moss. £39.00 www.captainfawcett.com

The Dapper Duke –Moustache Wax Tame those whiskers with the Dapper Duke Moustache Wax. It creates shape without hardening your hair, despite what they say; a stiff upper lip is not always a good thing. It comes in a jar and a handy tin, perfect for popping in your pocket.

Jar £7.50, Tin £5.50 – www.dapperduke.co.uk

Jack Dean Aftershave Balm Jack Dean aftershave balm is an refreshing yet effective post shave treatment for shaving irritations.

The balm contains a balanced blend of seaweed and cucumber extracts which moisturise, soothe and calm the skin. £6.50 - www.barberblades.co.uk

The Old Barber Street Co Wooden Beard Comb Kent Boar Bristle Brush Oval beach wood brush filled with beautiful boar bristle, handcrafted by Kent – comb and brush extraordinaires since 1777. Perfect for taming and caring for your beloved beard, whilst naturally creating a full shape.

Exfoliation is key to maintaining a beard’s health; by stimulating the skin and follicles, it’ll keep beardruff at bay, evenly distribute your beards natural oils and help to promote new growth. £20.00 www.thebrightonbeardcompany.co.uk

The Wooden Beard Comb is made of pear wood and is perfect for keeping your beard tamed, simply apply the beard oil with your hands and comb through thoroughly. Then comb your beard into your preferred style, perhaps applying some moustache wax or beard balm to put any stray hairs in their place. £11.99 - www.theoldstreetbarber.co

Apothecary87 The Smooth Moving Shave Oil The smooth moving shave oil has been designed for the smooth moving man who wants to show off his manly face. The blend of oils has been designed to be thick and great for moisturising harsh man skin and softening your steel-like man hair. Perfect to allow your razor to glide through your beard without breaking any blades. £16.00 - www.apothecary87.co.uk

18 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

The Bluebeards Revenge “Corsair” Super Badger Shaving Brush A luxurious brush densely packed with super badger hair! In conjunction with the world’s finest shaving brush manufacturer, Progress Vulfix, we’ve created this ultra luxurious brush. £44.99 - www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

ProductNV.

Electrical

Ego Professional Alter Ego Hairdryer Alter Ego is an ultra lightweight dryer that has no less than 8 heat and speed settings making this ergonomic dryer the ultimate in efficiency and usability. The strong but light design, salon length cable and directed air nozzle gives you real freedom while its 2000 watt performance puts you in complete control. The dryer is packed with HW2 technology to improve the hair quality and manageability in next to no time. www.egoprofessional.com - £109

The Oster Octane The Oster Octane is the newest, sleek take on the classic Oster 76/97 that keeps all the power. The Octane is equipped with a lithium ion battery, which means it never needs replacing or will never show a reduction in performance. With a comfortable grip, sexy and cordless design, it comes ready to make you look like a barber all-star. £300 - www.larrythebarberman.com

Li+ Pro² Mini Trimmer Wahl is further enhancing this product with the accompanying launch of the Li+ Pro² Mini hair trimmer as an optional component.

The Li+ Pro² Mini is cordless and weighs just 120g and has similar features to its hair clipper counterpart, minus the smartdisplay. Lithium-Ion technology provides it with 90 minute run time from a 30 minute charge.

The Li+ Pro² Mini also features a new improved efficient motor.

Available October £109.99 www.wahlglobal.com

Andis Supra ZR World-leading manufacturer Andis continues to excite barbers with its latest launch, the Supra ZR clipper.

The Andis Supra ZR has 5 speed settings and attachments and can be customised to meet every technical demand, giving barbers the freedom to create fades, sharp lines and precision finishing. £240 - www.andis.com

ghd V Gold Mini styler The ghd V gold mini styler is the perfect option for shorter hair with narrow plates that allow for precision styling, such as smoothing out cowlicks, kinks and fringes, and for straightening right from the root.

Smoother gold plates glide effortlessly through the hair to make straightening even quicker and easier. £119 - www.ghdhair.com

Common Wealth, Pro Hot Lather Machine This nifty hot lather machine is a must-have! Unlike other hot later machines, the Pro Barber Latherizier comes with a heat control option, allowing you to adjust the heat to any changes in your shop. Give your clients an even better wet-shaving experience. As well as its unique perks, it comes with a clogfree pump dispenser so maintenance! If you want less fuss and more positive feedback, the Pro Barber Latherizer is a must! £107 - www.larrythebarberman.com

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R A I S I N G F U N D S F O R M E N ’S H E A LT H "JAMES BEATTIE AND ADAM SLOAN BOTH SHARE THESE CHARITYS CLOSE TO HEART. WE HAVE DECIDED TO JOIN FORCES AND ASK ALL BARBERS AND HAIRDRESSERS FROM ALL OVER MODERN BRIITAIN TO JOIN OUR TEAM THE "MHFED & B.O.M.B UNITED" AND RAISE MONEY FOR THE GOOD OF MEN'S HEALTH. WWW.MHFED.COM WWW.BARBERSOFMODERNBRITAIN.COM"

MOBRO.CO/3166113

ProductNV.

Combs & Brushes Kent KS04 Dressing Out Brush The KS04 – Dressing Out Brush is an essential tool for creating the perfect up-do as well as creating massive volume from back combing. This dressing out brush is moulded from a single piece of heat proof material that is poised and balanced in a way that is second to none, the extended curved and tapered handle finishes in a beautiful point making it ideal for picking up and sectioning hair. The brush head and handle feature opposite curves to fit the shape of the head, which also improves weight distribution for nimble work when needed. This is an indispensable tool for anyone who wants to create fantastic hair. £15 - www.kentsalon.co.uk

Denman Pro Edge Master Comb

YS Park 254 Tapered Flex Comb The YS Park 254 comb picks up on all the great features of the popular YS Park 234 and then adds carbon fibre to the mix to make the comb even more durable with the ability to bend to extreme angles. The super-flat tips make it perfect for the closest possible cut and its soft feel give you even more control when pushed against the head to follow the scalp’s contours. £7.92 - www.coolblades.co.uk

Following the phenomenal success of original Denman launches the ProEdge Master, a longer version of the ProEdge Comb and has been moulded using a carbon fibre additive which offers enhanced strength and durability. The added thumb groove allows comfort and grip when cutting the hair. The ProEdge Master’s unique ‘cutting ledge’ is the key to fast and accurate scissor-over-comb and clipper-over-comb cutting. The ledge helps to accurately position the scissor/ clipper for a smoother, steadier cut and helps prevent the scissor/clipper from slipping £6 - www.denmanbrush.com

Denman Silver BeBop Massage Brush Gent’s silver shampoo/ massage brush. With extra-soft plastic pins, this brush is ideal for gentle scalp massage during shampooing and for distributing gels, waxes and pomades during styling. £3.00 - www.denmanbrush.com

Jack Dean Gents Club Brush The Jack Dean Gents Club Brush is a classic military style hair brush that is made from a light wood and filled with natural black bristles; the bristles are stiffened with nylon to massage the scalp. This brush is best used on men with fine or thinning hair £7.50 – www.barberblades.co.uk

22 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

ProductNV.

Scissors & Thinners Matakki - The Vintage The Vintage is not only a professional tool but also a beautiful piece of art, manufactured from top quality Japanese cobalt alloy.

Vintage by name, vintage in design, this latest addition has been getting some serious attention already. Handcrafted with a vintage style engraving on the handles and the main body of the scissor. 100% hand made by our skilled Scissorsmiths in Japan, you’ll fall in love at the very first cut. £240 - www.matakki.com

Guarded razor with built in comb for great texturising effects, can also be used for shaving. Very comfortable handle design complete with 20 blades.

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Matakki hair texture razors for use in hairdressing and barbering to add a different dimension to your cut. All Matakki razors feature superb sharpness and cutting durability thanks to the Japanese surgical steel blade installed The ergonomically designed Matakki M1 Razor is a smooth and comfortable tool for creating texture and removing extra weight from the hair. The swivel action finger ring also makes the M1 very comfortable to use, giving the user freedom of movement.

Jaguar JT3 Razor

8 £4

Matakki M1 Hair Texture Razor

Kobe Barber Thinner For those who like their thinning scissors to have a bit more heft, Kobe have designed the Kobe Barber Thinner. Its 6-inch blades are heavier than other thinners to give a bit more power to the cut. It’s comfortable to use too, with ergonomically shaped offset handles that almost mould to your fingers. The scissor action is silky smooth and a hand-adjustable tension screw lets you fine tune the thinner to just how you like it. £105 - www.coolblades.co.uk

£25 - www.matakki.com

Icon Scissors Freedom CB Scissors

Hunt and Hustle - The Duke

Great all round scissor.

Ergonomically designed to alleviate hand fatigue. Fine points for intricate work whilst having weight and balance for slicing and chopping. £155 - www.iconscissors.com

This scissor is designed for accurate and high-speed cutting. With the ergonomic shape and off-set handle The Duke sits naturally in your hand for comfort and excellent control. The low profile tension disc gives a sleek feel with full control and easy adjustment. Definitely more bang for your buck. £200 - www.huntandhustle.com

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 23

ProductNV.

Furniture & Equipment Custom Clipper Pimp up your clippers! In a world where people now want to personalise and customise their “stuff” they felt that there was a massive opportunity to do something with the look of clippers. They went on to adopt a customisation process which looks fantastic and has the durability to withstand constant use. £29 - www.customclipper.co.uk

Barbicide Surface Spray Barbicide Surface Spray is for the surfaces you want disinfected that doesn’t fit in a jar. It’s for your countertops, shampoo bowls and chairs. Barbicide Surface Spray is Hospital-grade; EPA approved broad-spectrum disinfectant in pre-measured concentrate. £7.99 - www.salon-services.com

Andis Cool Care Clipper Spray Andis Cool Care Clipper Spray is a one stop shop for everything you would need in a clipper spray: a coolant, disinfectant, lubricant, cleaner, and rust preventative.

Andis Cool Care Clipper Spray is a 5-in-1 spray that reduces friction and smoothes clipping action while prolonging the effective life of the blade. £6.99 - Salon Services Stores

REM-Men Emperor Select The Emperor Select Barber chair by REM. A retro classic available in a variety of colours and colour combinations from the REM fabric swatch. You can also personalise your chairs with your corporate logo (extra cost) Made in Britain with a 2 Year Warranty.

RRP £1193 (excl embroidery) +vat www.rem.co.uk

Cronus Stand up Clippers For people who a serious about their clippers, a real must for any barbershop. These 3ft high clippers can be personalised with your name and logo and are available in a variety of colours and can be either floor standing or wall hanging. Please note, the Wahl logo pictured is only an example and cannot be used without the express permission of Wahl. £420.00 -

Takara Belmont Dux Styling Chair This chair is the ultimate expression of Britishness that captures the essence of nobility and luxury. Two types of silky leather envelope plush cushioning, so your clients can literally sink in comfort, combined with hand attached brass tacks for a genuine antique look that will change and age with time.

www.barber-shop-furniture.com

£1540.00 www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

Merchant Fund

If you need immediate access to cash and your business accepts a minimum of £2,500 a month in card sales, you could qualify for the Merchant Fund.

Typically businesses can apply for funding equivalent to an average of one month of their card sales. The application process is very quick and businesses that have been trading for three years or more will be auto-approved on advances up to £15,000.

Whilst standard business financing involves credit checks and assets to secure a loan, no security is required for a Merchant Fund Cash advance. www.chipandpinsolutions.co.uk

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E M P E R O R Unconventionally British

The Emperor Barbers Chair is designed and manufactured in Britain by REM. With 3 Year Warranty. Part of the REM Barbers Collection. sales@rem.co.uk

www.rem.co.uk

01282 619977

BarberNV. An interview with Laura Boyd

Josh BarberNV.

Josh Lamonaca 26 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

BarberNV.

BARBERNV BARBER OF THE MONTH We caught up with Josh Lamonaca, one of the hottest names in barbering at the moment, at a very exciting time: he is just about to open the doors on his brand new, bigger and better premises, following the incredible success of his MENSPIRE Male Image & Grooming shop in St. Albans.

J

osh’s journey into the barbering world was one that kicked off when he was 14-years-old. Frustrated by bogstandard ‘trims’, where his hair would be cut too short, he decided to take matters into his own hands – literally!

Josh stole his brother’s mini-trimmer and took it to school, where he would use it to razor lines into his friends’ hair! Ah, godbless the 90s.

While this is not something we would advise to any budding barbers out there, it formed the start of Josh’s flair and passion for hair care and set him off on a career path he has never looked back on.

Like most people in the industry, Josh has some incredible mentors and influences on his career.

Firstly, Craig Bennett.

He told BarberNV: “Craig was my barbering tutor when I enrolled on a barbering course when I was 18. He was an amazing, cool and collective character with such professionalism.”

And the second? Darren Bain.

“Darren of HOB salons has a wealth of achievements under his belt, being prestigiously crowned London hairdresser of the year. I can only show genuine gratitude to him for guiding me through hairdressing.”

Lamonaca Josh is relishing every moment of being part of the industry, with more of a buzz in the barbering world than ever before.

“The male grooming market has been steadily on the rise from about 2004, however in the last five years the market for male grooming has increased dramatically with the average bill for the modern gent soaring past anything we’ve seen in the past.

“With more services becoming available and so many grooming products now on the market, the perception of the male image has become increasingly popular amongst men as they are noticeably becoming more aware of their own appearance which is a great thing for the industry to capitalise on.”

Josh opened MENSPIRE Male Image & Grooming in February 2nd 2014. It proved so popular that has he has moved to larger premises, which will open its doors on Saturday October 3 – something he feels ‘blessed’ about.

So what is the secret to MENSPIRE’S success?

“At MENSPIRE we are defined by our sub name ‘Male Image & Grooming’.”

“When people come to MENSPIRE, through consultation we take into account a person’s appearance from head to toe, as well as skin and hair, to be able to provide them with a service that meets their requirements.

And that’s not all on offer at MENSPIRE...

“We are also due to release a smart yet street clothing line to add to our development of providing our clients with the total image. So watch out for [MMI&G] coming December 2015.”

With MENSPIRE proving a success, Josh recalls that one of the most poignant moments of his career came when he was able to show his grandma the MENSPIRE salon for the first time.

He built his clientele doing hair in her garage so to be able to show her what that groundwork had led to, was “a very touching moment.”

Josh also said that a highlight of his career has been “being able to perform on the

Fellowship stage alongside some of the biggest names in the hairdressing industry after being handpicked by MHFED’s Adam Sloan to be a part of the Young Feds artistic team. That was truly an amazing experience.

“I remember going to salon international for the first time I must have been only 17 and was in awe of those on stage at the time and said to my colleague at the time “that will be me one day!””

Josh is team captain of the Young Feds – a position he feels “truly humbled” to have.

“Being part of the Young Feds has been an amazing experience so far, from being centre stage on the fellowship stand at pro hair live both in London and Manchester and salon international. Not forgetting the huge crowd we roped in at Barber Connect – that was insane!

A highly praised educator, Josh also takes this role extremely seriously.

“To be an educator for me is my passion and profoundly rewarding. Education is the most interesting yet difficult adventure in life. To be able to help someone build confidence, increase technical ability and help develop someone’s creative excellence is my objective when it comes to education.“ When Josh isn’t educating, his skills are highly sought after in the salon, so what are his favourite tools of the trade?

“My favourite tools are; WAHL stinger, WAHL senior, ANDIS t outliner and ANDIS foil shaver.”

He told us: “If I could choose one product for the rest of my life it would have to be a matte paste, just because of the flexibility it can provide for clients.”

Josh is a man in demand, not only in St. Albans, but throughout the UK, with people getting in touch via social media, desperate to book up his services. Now it seems as though news of his talent may be spreading even further than that, as he told us: “All I can say about what is in the pipeline is, watch out Unites States...”

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 27

BarbershopNV.

BarbershopNV.

deakin & white An interview with Laura Boyd

deakin & white MALE GROOMING SHOP FIRST OPENED ITS DOORS IN JULY 2007, IN LONG EATON NOTTINGHAM. PROVING A SUCCESS, THE LADS HAVE JUST CELEBRATED A YEAR IN THEIR SECOND SHOP, IN ILKESTON DERBYSHIRE. We think that’s worth celebrating and that’s why deakin & white is our Barber shop of the month. deakin & white is made up of Richard Deakin, Ian White & Casey FosterMiles. After Richard and Ian initially opened the barbers, Casey joined after 6 months. 7years on, Casey became a partner, opening, running and managing the second shop.

So what is the secret to their success? We caught up with Casey to find out more...

Casey got hooked on the barber shop environment after working on Saturday’s in his local shop.

He knew barbering was where his passion lay and told us: “I think it’s the fact the everyday is something different regarding customers and even styles. For me also I respect that customer / barber relationship and I have built up some really close friendships over the year just through meeting customers.”

When it comes to style, Casey looks to our friends across the pond for inspiration, saying: “I’ve always looked to the American scene when it comes to styles like fades and Afro Caribbean.” In the UK, he’s a big fan of Alan Beak and Cutthroat Pete’s work.”

With the male grooming industry booming, the fact that men are more conscious than ever regarding their looks has played perfectly into the hands of the boys behind deakin & white, who are only too willing to help create their looks.

Although Casey told us: “You would be surprised how many middle aged men I have had ask for a One Direction cut.” Any Harry Styles lookalikes, send them the way of the Barber NV girls please Casey. Just a side note... deakin & white ensure they offer a wide range of services to suit a range of clients, from a smart sharp cut to traditional hot towel shaves.

Casey believes what the shop offers and how it looks is also key, as it has

28 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

become more of “ a social point - guys aren’t just looking for a quick chop, they come for more of a all round experience from the atmosphere and service.”

So what’s popular in deakin & white?

“I would have to say the fade just because of the adaptability of it. You can make it work with so many different styles. This year we’ve seen a lot moving away from the pomp and going for lots more texture and also the crop that has definitely been the 2015 cut.”

Casey added: “We offer grey blending for hair and beards which seem to be more popular than we imagined.”

As many of us know, it’s a big leap of faith opening your own shop but Casey said that once they saw the success of the new business, when it came to opening in Ilkeston, they were confident that had a strong enough reputation to succeed. deakin & white’s efforts have been recognised by the industry and Casey credits being runner-up in Barbershop Connect Barbershop of the Year and also Salon Business Magazine Male Grooming Salon of the Year’s category as a huge achievement.

With numerous products out there, the deakin & white team’s go-to product of choice is MUK. They favour a mixture of Wahl and Andis tools.

The team are firm believers that education in the world of barbering is key and they are looking forward to being part of the forthcoming Barber Bash.

“The venue looks incredible and the line-up of barbers is the who’s who of British barbering,” Casey said.

The man himself is opening the Barber Bash team presentation alongside barber Taz of Gregory Max barbers and Neil Tomlinson of Savills.

Of events like the Bask, he said: “They’re what bring us together to learn and connect, which makes British barbers amongst the best in the world.”

BarbershopNV.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 29

Rising Star.

As barbering becomes more and more popular, it’s only fitting that new and young barbers rise up through the ranks. Tom Chapman’s name is slowly becoming household and if you don’t know already, you better get to know!

BarberNV’s Ken J R Hermes caught up with Tom to find out a bit more about this month’s ‘Rising Star’.

Ken: Tom, congratulations on being this month’s rising star. Tell me how and why you got into barbering?

Tom: My career started 13 years ago, when I joined Toni&Guy at 18 years old. There, you have to specialise in either colour or cutting. My heart was always in the creation of different shapes and textures of hair, so it was a no brainer. These were the days long before Kevin Luchmun, there were no clippers in the company. I really had to perfect my scissor work and the discipline of scissor over comb, which I feel has given me a strong base and understanding when building weight and graduation free hand.

Ken: How did you go from scissor work to clipper work?

Tom: I’ve been into alternative styles for a while and have had most styles and colours myself. I have a lot of friends in the local punk scene and they used to ask me to cut mohawks and other extreme styles that required clippers. That’s where it really began. I taught myself clipper techniques and invested in my own super tapers even though they weren’t allowed in the salon.

Ken: So when did you turn from Toni&Guy stylist, to Tom Chapman the barber?

Tom: I worked in a few other salons, but in 2011 I eventually opened my own salon. This really gave me the freedom to do what I wanted to do and be as creative as I like.

Ken: Brilliant. How important do you think photography is in barbering?

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Tom: I met an amazing, like minded photographer called Rob Grist at a wedding show I did. I had done a few shoots before but nothing worth mentioning. In the last 12 months we have done four awesome shoots together. I think it’s really important to find and work with someone like minded, it can really excel your work.

Ken: I’ve seen some of these shots, they are very effective! You seem to have a very lively social media presence, how important is social media to your business?

Tom: I think that being where I am, in the South West of England, we can easily get forgotten about. I think social media is a huge help, it has enabled me to get my images and work out there to people, rather than waiting for them to find me!

Through the likes of Facebook and Instagram, I have met many of the industries greats and it has given me the power to get some of them together for The Lions Barber Collective, where we are raising awareness for PAPYRUS, a suicide awareness charity.

Ken: That’s an amazing cause, I’m sure you will get a lot of recognition for such a noble act.

Tom: Thanks. Social media is our only real form of advertising locally. It raises brand awareness and lets our clients see what is going on and what we are doing to constantly better ourselves.

Ken: I see that most product ranges use social media to promote themselves too.

Are you associated with any products in particular?

Rising Star.

Rising Star.

Tom Chapman An interview with Ken Hermes

Tom: I’m a proud ambassador for Fit For Vikings beard care. They are an amazing brand run by an amazing guy called Hjortur. We will be working closely on some new shaving products for them in the future, so keep your eyes out for that. I have also been working with Keune for a while but I love trying out new products all the time, as I am not sponsored or tied to any particular brand when it comes to hair products. The ones that stand out to me at the moment are Dear Barber, especially after they reformulated. They have great marketing, images and education to back up a great product. Plus I just got to try out the GO 24.7 products and they are excellent, in fact the best pomade I’ve used for a while.

Ken: I’m yet to try any of these products, so you have inspired me! What about the tools of the trade, which brands do you lean towards?

Tom: Clipper wise I have always used Wahl and attended much of their education in the past as well as one I’m attending in a couple of weeks.

They have an awesome range of clippers for all styles and techniques and I’ve started to build quite an arsenal of tools now, recently trying out the foil shavers for skin fades.

Ken: So taking in to account your preferred products, tools and techniques, is there a Tom Chapman signature cut?

Tom: I would say I don’t have one particular cut that I do over and over. I think my hairdressing background encourages versatility and variation of clientele.

Ken: So what’s next for you?

Tom: Educating - I got into education and stage work nearly 2 years and it has really become a passion of mine, I think because of the strong education programme with Toni&Guy I knew it really is the way to move forward in ANY career.

I love it and because of it I have done some work with international hair product and colour brand Keune, which included their huge True Beauty Event in Amsterdam Holland earlier this year.

Which also meant a cheeky visit to Schorem for a cut with Miky White Trash, it’d be rude not to take advantage of being in the area!

This year had been insane, I started it with my #Th13teen collection, which was received well online and even got published, then I did my #StayGold collection for competition entries and I was a finalist for UK Barber Battle 2015.

Then I put together the #Sideshow collection and I have been asked to be part of The Great British Barber Bash, working alongside the best in the business, which is a huge honour. I also have a huge project in the making with some of these great names called The Lions Barber Collective and now I am going to have a feature in this great magazine!

I feel I have found my place in the industry and I’m learning every day from the wealth of knowledge that surrounds us. I am looking at locations for a new larger shop in which we will have our very own academy, working alongside phab wholesale and education.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 31

Feature.

Kieron the Barber Unlocks the Secrets of Instagram Success

INSTAGRAM IS BUZZING WITH FRESH NEW BARBERS MAKING A NAME FOR THEMSELVES ON THE INTERNATIONAL SCENE. I MET WITH KIERON THE BARBER FOR A CHAT ABOUT HOW SOCIAL MEDIA IS HELPING HIM CONQUER THE WORLD. An interview with Larry the Barber Man

E

arlier this month I grabbed Kieron Price, otherwise known as the Instagram barbering superstar Kieron the Barber, and his mentor, Baldy, for a lunchtime coffee in London. Sitting outside the shop on their break from guest teaching at the London School of Barbering, they were both sporting arm tattoos and, of course, tapered haircuts.

I start off by asking them both why and how they think Instagram works so well at building their business as a barber. After a sip of orange tea, Kieron tells me that in the beginning “I put my haircuts up, I hashtag them, I tag reposts, Instagram pages like Barbershop Connect… If you hit one of them…”

At only 27 he has already amassed an Instagram following of well over 42,000 in the 6 years he’s been in the barbering trade, I wondered what the secret to his big break was: “I think I was on about 600 followers and then from that I hit a Barbershop Connect,” he explains, “over-night I think I got over 3000 followers. That was my first.”

From obscurity to fame in one Instagram hit, he told me how “No one had seen me before, no one knew who I was. It literally works like that.

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Hashtag all the decent barbers in there and get everyone looking at your work. Make yourself known.”

It’s at this point that I ask Baldy, owner of the Buckinghamshire barbers where the pair base their work, if he agrees with the ethos behind this Instagram success. “Kieron was on Instagram probably about a year before me“he’s cut off by a smiling Kieron who explains “I used to write your Instagram. Your phone didn’t used to have it, did it?”

“I had an old fashioned phone” continues Baldy, “well I got it and it’s right what he says. In order to push the profile of your business or your shop, you go on there and hashtag things.”

As a guest barber at the London School of Barbering as well as an ambassador and international educator for Andis Hair Clipper Company, Kieron is also getting professional acclaim from the industry, as well as global recognition through his social media.

“For us as a business now we get people travelling” explains Baldy. “We had someone from New York the other day!” adds Kieron as Baldy tells me; “prime example, [he] looked us up and he was over here for a month, wanted a particular haircut that we do”. The international

Feature.

Kieron the Barber: 7 tips to keep and grow a five-figure fan base 1. Hashtags are the best way to get your cuts out to a wider audience. Consider getting a hashtags app like ‘tagsforlikes’ as it keeps them saved for re using.

2. Tagging: Don’t be afraid to tag your favourite barbers in your pics. That way they will get to notice you.

3. Don’t post too much or too little. My rule is: 1 or 2 a day is more than enough, anymore and people tend to get annoyed. Keep yourself exclusive and make people want more.

4: The camera is really important. I’ve had 5 different cameras since starting Instagram and I now use a canon 700d dlsr which made my likes jump from 50 to 500!

5. Don’t be afraid to answer questions. Be active on your Instagram and if people ask you questions try to answer them. If they see you’re an active user there more likely to like your stuff and recommend you.

6. Always Shoutout. This was one of my main ways I got into the industry thanks to @barbershopconnect and @barbersinctv. If you hashtag shoutout pages and @them in your pictures there’s a chance your get reposted. That’s how I hit my first 10k followers.

7: Following. Make sure you’re following barbers to see what pictures work and what don’t. Get inspired and don’t be scared to like a photo or 2 and if you like a cut you see you should definitely tell the barber. I’m always more keen to follow humble barbers who are nice.

traveller told the boys the first thing he’d done once he landed was find out exactly where they were and get a haircut.

“How would people know us if we weren’t on Instagram?” asks Kieron. “I’ve got x amount of followers on Instagram and then I did my Youtube.” He can’t stress the importance enough of linking all his social media together: “add your Instagram account to everything.

Every little box on Instagram – tick it!”

Earlier this year while attending the ‘Barbering Connect’, the biggest barbering expo in Europe and the first major hit he ever got, Kieron got a rock star reception from some of his 42,000 fans. I wanted to know if there was a frequency on new material that he aimed to upload on his Instagram. “3 a week” he answers straight off the bat.

“There’s a massive debate on it” says Baldy, “some go ‘I’m gonna’ post 5 a day’. Keep it exclusive.” I really wanted to get into the innerworkings of their hugely successful page and asked what images, as barbers, get biggest hits?

“Pomps and skin fades” Kieron says instantly, “I did a really good, and I don’t mean to blow my own trumpet, I did a really good skin fade with a pomp on the top.” He shrugs, “a couple of hundred likes. Because my followers just want to see [something] new.”

For over 12 years Kieron has been in the hair industry and has achieved not only a state registered status, but is also a store manager and Shark Finn Scissors ambassador. Between us we decide that it’s familiarity that gets the most online interest: “They know what they like.”

Looking through his Instagram page it’s clear that Kieron loves what he does. Even the pictures themselves look well done so I questioned them both about how the quality of the image effects the response they get; I wondered if things like the tightness of the crop do anything for their followers.

Kieron smiles and laughs, “buy a 50mm 1.8 AF lens. It was a big key to my success.” Gesturing to Baldy he explains “he’s got my old camera, a Nikon 3100. I’ve now got a Canon 700D and we’ve both got the 50mm lens.”

“It micros out the background and clears the haircut.” A low aperture and I tight crop, I ask?

“You don’t want to see anything else but the haircuts.”

I asked my next question ‘do filters help you’ and I seemed to spark a debate; “we had a big argument over this” says Baldy and Kieron laughs, repeating “We had a big argument.”

Baldy told me “I used to put filters on my Instagram… I used to use that slightly brown one for uppercuts” (we established he meant Sepia) “and loads of people went ‘all you ever do is put filters on’ and I was like ‘what’re you on about? I changed the colour slightly because I like that effect.’ Now using that 50mm lens, I might sometimes change the saturation if someone has a vivid suntan.”

It’s at this point that Kieron agrees, adding “because our shop’s quite dark, I’ve started taking people outside and doing a shot there.

You get the more natural light.”

The ‘Kieron the Barber’ Instagram account has well over a thousand posts which stretch back to some of his very first uploads. How had his approach to what he posted and how

he used hashtags changed into the worldwide phenomenon it is now?

“I went back to my first Instagram picture… and it’s got 12 likes” he told me “but it’s funny, I reposted it the other day saying ‘ha ha this is my first Instagram, how I’ve changed’ sort of thing.”

From those humble 12 he said “It got like 300 likes.”

“Without those tools - social media - we wouldn’t have those opportunities” says Baldy, “we’d still be good barbers, but we’d be good barbers within our area,” as appose to the global recognition they wouldn’t otherwise have.

On to the subject of Youtube, and Kieron talks to me about exactly what his social media can tell him. “As you can see yourself, [on Youtube] when you do your analytics. My top three countries that watch my videos are America, Mexico, I think its Germany now, and then it’s the UK.” I asked, no Aussies? “They’re strange because they’re not massive in barbering” Baldy tells me, “I mean there’s a few, but it’s different.” When the catalyst finally does come out from the UK it’ll all emigrate to Australia and go on a five year wave.

“You can sell you converters over in Australia!” jokes Kieron, of course talking about my Frequency 60 Hz clipper voltage converter. He asks whether they have British plugs and I tell him they’ve got three prongs. “He’s got all the plugs!” he laughs turning to Baldy, “we’ve got to go out there!”

Turning to the future, I asked them what they were going to do with their new-found Instagram success. Kieron tells me they’re going to America next year, “we’ll go out in March and do one of the shows out there” explains Baldy, “either New York, Chicago, or Orlando. I’m not sure which one but we’ll go together as a team.

You should come out there as well Larry, it’ll be awesome!”

I asked if Kieron the Barber would become a brand and maybe expand their products range from their store in Aylesbury and Kieron explains “you know what? We’re not in it for that, I love my job and I love cutting hair.” He also mentions a growing collection of talented barbers he is part of called New World Barbers and shows me their Facebook page with the same name.

“For us it’s not about the money” Baldy adds, “we’re not salesman, we’re barbers. That’s what we do. The only thing we’re ever going to sell is us.”

Kieron summed his online success up perfectly when he said to me “even being in this magazine right now, we wouldn’t be here if we didn’t have a big Instagram following.” Undoubtedly, it is their mix of cheeky personality, barbering skills, and Instagram know-how that have given them the global acclaim they hold today.

Catch Kieron at the London Barber School on November 6th and on Instagram @kieronthebarber and @baldysbarbers.

Follow me @larrythebarberman and visit my website larrythebarberman.com to learn a little more about what I do.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 33

Feature.

Sid Sottung

The Brand Ambassador We can all agree that the product market has become somewhat saturated.

This, in part, is due to the trends that have recently dominated the male grooming landscape. A case in point: slicked back locks and perpetually resilient beards facilitated unbelievable growth in the pomade and beard oil markets respectively.

D

ue to what is, in principle, a simple recipe, independent brands have been competing with established market players. An endless stream of independent pomades passed through the academy, each quirkily packaged and vying to standout amongst its contemporaries.

As an aside, we favoured Californian-based brand Bona Fide Pomade. Of course it is subjective and down to personal preference, but we believed the product’s quality, finish and versatility to differentiate it. We continue to stock it alongside the pomade of Rotterdam’s impeccably marketed Schroem barbershop, Reuzel Pomade.

I am using this particular market as an example, but it is applicable to a variety of product types. Additional confusion can be a by-product of additional choice. It poses the question: with so much choice and a paucity of information, to who are customers to turn?

A tired cliché perhaps, but people like to buy from people. The power of positive word-of-mouth referrals should not be underestimated. They are often more genuine and persuasive than other marketing from, what could be deemed, ‘faceless brands’.

It’s therefore unsurprising that more brands, of all sizes, are choosing to be represented by particular barbers or barbershops. The inclination to purchase from individuals, coupled with the vast audiences social media has afforded barbers, means a well-connected brand ambassador can be a quite a coup.

An art as visual as ours perfectly lends itself to a certain image-sharing platform.

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Instagram delivers by far the highest levels of engagement of the social media sites, and is perhaps the easiest to amass a large following on.

The result: barbers with thousands (sometimes tens of thousands) of individuals that are, to some extent, interested in male grooming literally at their fingertips. For the avoidance of any doubt, I am not for a second suggesting that every follower will immediately adopt the brand a certain barber represents. But in terms of increasing brand visibility to relevant individuals, be it end customer or other industry professionals, there are few methods that can do so as quickly and cost-effectively.

Although preferable, a mammoth social media following is not a prerequisite to be a good champion for a brand. Quite simply, a brand ambassador is somebody who speaks highly of a company. We all, to some degree, represent the products that we have an affinity for.

As previously mentioned, ambassadors humanise a brand and provide credible promotion. I believe ‘credible’ to be the key word. The best ambassadors will always be self elected and spontaneous: those that use the product purely due to personal preference. They remain unbiased, and in the eyes of customers, trustworthy.

Feature.

Quite simply, a brand ambassador is somebody who speaks highly of a company. We all, to some degree, represent the products that we have an affinity for.

I always fear an iota of credibility could be lost when arrangements become formalised and vested interest creeps in. For this reason, it’s imperative that both brands and barbers are selective, and the arrangement is more than just a bout of mutually beneficial backscratching.

So, you have a well-established online presence and a brand approaches you. An honest decision must be made as to whether the brand is one you feel you can front both genuinely and effusively.

Marketing texts are awash with vague sentiments of ambassadors ‘embodying the brand’. But it’s a fundamental understanding of a brand ambassador’s role that will allow you to make the decision.

In the simplest, and perhaps most cynical sense, a brand ambassador is a salesperson.

However, the aim isn’t to make sales one at a time, but to establish and foster loyal relationships with customers. Alongside charisma and empathy, a successful salesperson is defined by their passion and knowledge for their product.

Promotion of a brand without these attributes can appear disingenuous and clumsy.

Earlier in the year I was fortunate enough to become a global brand ambassador for the British grooming brand Lock Stock & Barrel. I had been using the products for years prior, and through loyal custom, befriended the owner. We both felt I was in a position to provide credible promotion for the brand. I know the product range inside out, and would be using them irrespective of any relationship with the company itself.

When one becomes a brand ambassador, the trust imparted by a brand comes with a large sense of responsibility. After all, you act as an external extension of the brand’s internal marketing efforts. The way in which you present yourself reflects upon the brand, both positively and negatively. If the majority of your promotion will be via social media channels, it’s important to have a suitable understanding of social media marketing.

Badly crafted Facebook posts, overly repetitive tweets and the like can present the brand negatively and somewhat perturb potential customers.

Professionalism, as well as enthusiasm, is paramount to building loyal relationships between customers and brands.

A brand ambassador’s role will primarily be to help end users distinguish between similar products. Having the opportunity to represent product that you believe to be truly innovative and beneficial to the industry is rather rare.

I have recently been working with a brand that fits such a profile, Neocape. They produce lightweight, comfortable cutting capes that provide a solution to a problem: the relentless renegade hairs that defy the laws of both physics and probability to creep down a client’s back.

Like you, I am also certain that all cutting collars are designed for this very purpose, but this one actually works.

In the same vain, I also became involved with the British Master Barber Alliance. Any organisation that strives to celebrate and promote rising industry standards, if done correctly, is a positive thing. Going forward, I believe the alliance can become a real asset to the industry and provide support for barbers across the country.

All in all, I would implore you to reward the brands you admire with your passionate recommendation.

Perhaps you will work closely alongside them someday. Oh, and remember to check out the brands I mentioned.

KEEPING DOOP IN THE LOOP OF MUST-HAVE BRANDS With new haircare ranges and products constantly hitting the shelves, we caught up with Peter Tobolski, the UK distributor of the Doop range, to find out how the brand stays ahead of the game.

Peter initially discovered Doop at the Cosmoprof Bologna, where the Doop team presented.

He said: “I instantly fell in love with it and knew I had to work with them in the UK.” Peter told us: “Today’s youth take their fashion, hair and music very seriously and like to experiment with style, always looking for new ways to make a bold and highly individualized statement. Doop is what they want.”

The brand has been well received in the UK with hundreds of salons now stocking Doop products and Peter expecting the reach to be in the thousands in the near future.

He told BarberNV: “The Men’s Market has really ballooned, however so has the supply of products.

The strong will win - Doop stands out from the pack.”

So Mr Doop, just how does it do that?

“Number one is performance, Doop products really deliver.

“Number two, the image: Doop does different, with names like Outsider, Rebel and Screamer. We aim to really stand out.”

Peter and his team work hard to get Doop Products in front of the right salons and then help those salons thrive with all that Doop delivers.

He explained: “Doop Products are ‘styling only’.

There are 12 products in the collection, some for short, some for long, some for straight, some for curly, male and female. You will find a product in the range to help you achieve any look you desire.”

With Doop products currently being sold in Fresh Approach and selected distributors, Peter sees a bright future ahead for the brand.

“I see Doop Products as the go-to collection for all salons looking for an uber trendy, youth culture brand.”

He added: “The hairdressing industry is a beacon of hope. There are some outstanding salons out there really making their mark, pushing boundaries and helping our industry reach new heights. I’ve a great deal of hope for our future.”

Feature.

An interview with Laura Boyd

Davie The Barber MEET THE PAISLEY OUTLAW WHO’S FLYING THE FLAG FOR OSMO®

D

avie Walker owns a successful barber shop in Paisley, but he’s more involved in the industry than ever, with The Outlaw Barber Collective, taking part in seminars and education workshops and in his role as an ambassador for OSMO®.

We thought it was time we found out a little more about this Scottish barbering force.

With his shop, Davie the Barber on Causeyside Street, Paisley, doing well; Davie has been afforded the opportunity to explore other areas of the business.

His passion for the industry was truly ignited when he took part in the Glasgow Barber Bash at the Drygate in July.

He explained: “My shop has now played host to sell out workshops by some top barbering names from across the UK, including Sid Sottung, who travels around the world doing seminars. We also had a sell out shave course recently with Dan and Rob Rix, who have just won HJ Male Grooming Salon of the Year Award.

“The Barber Bash has ignited inspiration in barbers across Scotland. Seeing the talent that is out there is phenomenal and it encourages barbers to keep pushing to be the best they can be. We are looking forward to a sell out show in November with the Ruger Barber Team, Alan and Reece Beak and also with top educator Darren Andis Jones at the beginning of 2016.”

Davie has also been inspired to set up his own Collective.

“Myself, Eric Begg and Gregg Foster have recently joined together to form The Outlaw Barber Collective and enjoyed doing our first seminar in Kenneth Edwards salon in Paisley, which was packed out. All three of us were absolutely buzzing with the response we received.”

From performing at Barber Connect and the Barber Bash, to being a finalist in SHABA and a finalist in Wahl’s British Barber of the year, how can Davie sum up this year?

“Absolutely amazing! I couldn’t have asked for things to be going any better than they are at the moment. Since the beginning of the year my career has been going from strength to strength and it’s fantastic to have been involved in such amazing events.

This year, Davie also landed a dream role: “I was offered a role from OSMO® to be their brand ambassador.

My first project as brand

36 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

ambassador was cutting on the OSMO® stand at Barber Connect. After the success at Barber Connect, where I picked up my award for being in the top ten for ‘best creative pompadour’, I then went onto Barber Bash Glasgow where I showcased six of my models. The awards nominations followed.”

On being an ambassador, Davie explained: “Being an ambassador for OSMO® is an absolute honour. Working for a world renowned brand that have a fantastic range of products and are very passionate about hairdressing and barbering is great.”

He is extremely passionate about OSMO® products and he told us: “My favourite blow drying product is Resin Extreme Glue which is great for the modern high pomp and quiff styles. This Glue has a real maximum hold which helps to achieve a lot of volume and height whilst maintaining the style.”

“Matte Clay Extreme is my favourite finishing product. This can also be used as a pre blow drying product. OSMO® Matte Clay Extreme is one of the best products on the market today.”

In his role, Davie is in constant contact with OSMO® and is a spokesperson for their barbering range, representing the brand at key events.

He said: “I am working alongside a

dedicated team that are willing to put time in with me to help push my career forward while also pushing the OSMO ® brand forward. The added support and opportunities OSMO ® have given me so far have been fantastic. ‘Cutting on their stand at Barber Connect was a great achievement for the me and the turning point of my career. This gave me the confidence to take part in further live shows such as Barber Bash. I am looking forward to doing future events with OSMO ® and will always be grateful that they have chosen me as their first barber ambassador.”

Busy with OSMO ® and his shop, Davie is also looking forward to taking the Outlaw Barber Collective on the road.

“We will be performing at Professional Barbering Live in both Manchester Central and London Olympia next year using the OSMO ® products.

We have our next Workshop in Kilmarnock in the Barbers Lounge 25th October 2015.

Tickets are on sale for £60 for the full day with demos in the morning and hands on workshop in the afternoon.”

It may have been a lifechanging year for Davie, but it looks like his place in the barbering world is only set to grow.

www.osmo.uk.com

grooming

The ultimate barbering range for effortlessly cool originality, texture and look definition

Feature.

Dieuwertje Prins BARBER OF THE YEAR

Dieuwertje Prins is definitley a name to take note of in the barbering world.

I

f you haven’t heard of her already, you soon will. The Dutch barber is currently taking the industry by storm, recently taking the prestigious title of Barber of the Year Europe, 2015.

Impressive for someone who has only been working in the hair care industry for the past two and a half years, and even more impressive when you consider Dieuwertje is the first woman ever to win the title.

But this is not just another gong to sit on the reception desk at the barber shop.

This award has opened more doors for Dieuwertje than she could ever have imagined and she is currently in demand as an ambassador for numerous companies.

Carefully selecting those she feels passionate about and proud to support; Dieuwertje is now an ambassador for Dear Barber, British Master Barbers (International ambassador) and Matakki – a role she describes as “awesome”.

We hear the word ‘ambassador’ widely used in this industry but what does it actually mean and what are the benefits of being / having an ambassador for a product?

Dieuwertje told BarberNV: “As an ambassador you are the face of their business.

“Using things like social media, you help promote products to fellow barbers and hairdressers.

38 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

“Putting this into action; for the British Master Barbers, I help organise events, judge competitions and hand out awards.

“At Matakki; I test out all their scissors and give recommendations, again using social media to promote the products. I also take the scissors on the road, allowing people to test them at roadshows etc, so they can get a feel for the quality. My personal favourite is The Black Sabbath in the range as it is sharp, but is as light as a feather and perfect for cutting fine details.”

And there are certainly plenty of perks to being an ambassador.

Dieuwertje travels with the companies she works for, showcasing the products not only in Europe, but also as far afield as Mexico.

Dieuwertje told BarberNV: “You also get free products to try out and from the British Master Barbers, I get t shirts, sweatshirts and barber capes – there are definite plus points to my role!”

But that’s not why Dieruwertje does it.

For her, it’s a mutual appreciation and respect between herself and the companies she represents and while they get recognition from being associated with her, she can also use the association to promote herself.

Feature.

The Black Sabbath As used by Dieuwertje Prins

Matakki Scissor Ambassador

£345.00 www.matakki.com

MatakkiHairdressingScissors

MatakkiScissors

Matakki_Scissors

MatakkiScissors An interview with Laura Boyd

She said: “When somebody recognises you as the face of a particular brand, that is a great feeling.”

Although busy in her role as an ambassador, Dieuwertje also still works in her own barber shop in her hometown of Sluis. which sits alongside a salon her mother runs.

She told us: “It’s a small town but its bustling and thriving with many creative people.”

With her shop situated on the “Hoogstraat corner”, she benefits from passing trade, but has also attracted customers from as far afield as Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany, and a few from Greece and Italy in recent weeks!”

Dieuwertje said: “That gives me a great feeling, knowing that people will travel from far and wide to get here.”

We’re not surprised Dieuwertje has customers flocking to her shop; we think she’s not only an ambassador for the companies she represents, but for the barber industry as a whole.

At Matakki; I test out all their scissors and give recommendations, again using social media to promote the products. I also take the scissors on the road, allowing people to test them at roadshows etc, so they can get a feel for the quality.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 39

Feature.

An interview with Ken Hermes

H

e has been described as the godfather of modern Irish barbering, and I had the opportunity of catching up with him to find out a bit more about who he is and what he does. So where did it all start for Pat? “I got into barbering when I was 12 years old.”

“I worked for my Uncle in Limerick. It was one of 2 main barber shops in the city at the time. I started sweeping the floors, making coffees, all the usual chores that an apprentice would do.

I had a real interest in it. My dad was a barber for a few years and I had 2 uncles that were barbers. It was in the blood and something I always wanted to do. When I wasn’t playing football, it was what I wanted to do.” Pat explained that he won a soccer scholarship in America for Notre Dame University but chose not to pursue it, to explore barbering more.

He continued: “I was working in my Uncle’s shop for a while, cutting hair and learning skills from 14. I was cutting hair properly at 17. I used to come in and cut my friends’ hair after school and on half days and weekends. It was a great way of building up my clientele at the time. I was lucky enough to build up a big clientele really fast. I was with my uncle for around another 10 years and I ended up working with Brian Hackett (from American Crew) in Figaro barbershop. This opened up a whole new perspective for me and he gave me a different dynamic.”

“After that, I went over to the UK for a little while. I did a lot of freelance magazine work over there; FHM, Loaded, Topman etc… It got to the stage where I wanted to come home after a year as I wanted to open my own business.”

“I opened up Babylon Barber Shop about 40 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

15 years ago - this was my first shop. Then I opened The Gentry which was my second shop.

Then I opened two Celtic Barbers, a True Gents Barbershop and a Tattoo Shop/Barber Shop called Barbers Ink. I continued with these shops, all based in the suburbs of Limerick, as I felt that there was more life in the suburbs of the city.

I didn’t want to battle with the cheap pop up barber shops. I heard a good saying one time; where there are chimneys there is money, and that stuck with me. I found it really difficult to run and manage the shops because I had so many going with so many staff members. I offloaded all of the shops, apart from The Gentry Barber Shop, which is my main shop now.”

With such a wealth of knowledge, Pat is putting his learnings to good use.

“I’m actually in the process of writing a book about my past. It’s to help aspiring barbers and business owners that want to multi shop. I learned more from what I shouldn’t have done, than what I should have. Lots of what I did worked, but lots didn’t.”

Now, Pat is more than a barber and aspiring author and I wanted to delve into what else he is up to. I mean, he is a household name for a reason, right? I asked Pat what other ventures he is involved in.

“Well, I actually developed a software company called Barber Genie,” Pat explained.

“It’s a marketing platform that I developed for a phone app. I worked with two business partners, spent lots of time and a lot more money but we found that the software was too advanced for the industry. Now, we’re exploring other avenues.”

Pat explained that he has exposed himself to every aspect of the industry, from the actual floor work, to marketing, software, education and product development.

“The great thing is that lots of companies have offered me consultancy in their software since, so the whole thing hasn’t gone downhill, it was a

Pictures: Diarmuid O’Donovan

If you know about barbering, you know about Pat Barry. The man has become a bit of a legend in the barbering scene and comes with a reputation of being one of the nicest guys in the business.

great learning curve. It’s a pity that the industry wasn’t ready but maybe in the next two years.”

Pat expands. “I’m keeping really busy though.

I’m working on a US TV show called Barber Swap USA, which (if it works) will expand to the UK too!”

I was really keen to find out if Pat played a role in the growth of the Irish barbering community and what his steer on it was.

“The Irish Barbering scene is quite funny really.

My network was never very strong in Ireland until I worked in the UK. I didn’t want to compete with my work too much in Ireland. The industry was very closed off for a lot of people and I didn’t want to embrace myself in it too much. The Irish philosophy is to knock success. Luckily that didn’t happen to me, however you are better off to be a success overseas first, then the Irish people will embrace you more,” Pat chuckled.

“Social media has brought a lot of us guys together. It’s helped the top artists and barbers in the country get together in the UK. There haven’t been any events in Ireland yet. The industry has so many characters wanting something, but has had no real character in itself to lay a foundation.

Watch this space in the new year though. We have some great plans to raise the profile of Irish Barbering!” Well if anyone can do that, Pat can.

Now, not only is Pat involved in all of the above, he was also previously involved with Dear Barber.

I wanted to find out a bit more about what he did for them and why his involvement was so important.

“I spotted them on social media and engaged with Lee Mahon, the brand manager at the time. I told him that I love the aesthetics of his products, so we organised to hook up after Barber Connect. Lee had his case (which is now globally recognised as the Dear Barber display case) and straight away I said it looked amazing.

I had previously stocked a lot of American Crew, so was looking for a replacement product. When I saw Dear Barber, I knew it would fit in.

“I took the products away to try them and see how they worked. I spoke to Lee a lot and became good friends over that time. We worked on the products together and would pass back feedback and product samples until we found a product line that we were happy with. We decided to do a shoot with Dear Barber, which is where the ‘Who Dares Wins’ video shoot came from. This was to market the new products and use it as a platform to re establish the brand’s credibility in the market.

Lee asked Danny Robinson to come over to get involved and Danny and myself collaborated on the shoot, we wanted the shoot to be different and convey a story rather than just a selection of random images. I wanted the music to sell the story of the brand too. So that’s how I got involved with Dear Barber, and until recently I directed all their shoots and direct all the shows and seminars. My aim was to get them much needed credibility by improving their damaged name, achieved that with Lee and we won them Product Range of the Year, and Stand of the Year.

Dear Barber was a very enjoyable experience, I had the privilege to shape a great friendship with Lee Mahon and all the team we built with the brand. I wish them well for their future, it’s now time to move on and develop our own brand and bring it to the pinnacle of the industry, supported by an International Educational programme and tie it all in with our Lions Barber Collective which is being directed by myself and the very talented Tom Chapman, who is a very fitting BarberNV Rising Star of the month.

Feature.

BEARD BALM LAUNCH AT LUKE’S BARBER SHOP

It was the UK’s turn to celebrate the release of Uppercut Deluxe Beard Balm on Saturday, 22 August. Hosted by Uppercut Deluxe Barber Ambassador Luke Dolan, the event kicked off with a free beard trimming session at Luke’s Barbershop in Ruislip, London, where attendees were invited to sample some Beard Balm and see for themselves why it has been getting so much hype in the barbering industry.

Uppercut Deluxe knows great beards don’t just happen by accident, and that even the manliest men need help with their grooming routine sometimes. With just the right amount of hold and shine, Uppercut Deluxe Beard Balm will keep your beard shaped and controlled, reducing those annoying flyaways while ensuring your dapper and distinguished look stays in place. Beard Balm has a dry texture, and won’t leave your facial hair looking oily. The best bit – your beard will feel nourished and moisturized.

A master of traditional barbering, Luke Dolan lives and breathes the barber life scene, and has been in the barbering trade since his teens.

Now the owner of two barbering businesses, his experience and love for classic hairstyling can be seen in the traditional and laidback theme of his shops. Luke started using Uppercut Deluxe after opening his first barbershop, when he found that many men’s styling products simply couldn’t meet the needs of his clients. When Luke’s not cutting hair or trimming beards, he swaps his scissors for a guitar and can be found jamming with his band, the Brand New Zeros.

Luke trimmed and shaped countless beards at the launch party, using Bead Balm to finish off every look. Once the free beard trimming session was over, the festivities were taken up a notch, with drinks and live music. The Brand New Zeros took to the stage, playing some of their newest tracks, while the crowd enjoyed cocktails and soaked up the warm and welcoming atmosphere. All in all a great industry night!

BarberNV are proud to sponsor Pat’s image for the upcoming Lions Barber Collective shoot, it’s a pleasure to support such a worthy cause and help raise awareness to suicide prevention.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 41

Dapper Dan pomade has long been regarded as ‘one of t he classics’.

FROM ITS ORIGINAL USE IN ‘20’S SLANG, TO FEATURING IN THE COEN BROTHERS CULT MOVIE, OH BROTHER, WHERE ART THOU?, DAPPER DAN WAS A CLASSIC POMADE BRAND JUST WAITING TO EMERGE. Fast forward to 2011, and Dapper Dan was finally born in Sheffield, England. Simon May, founder of numerous Steel City barbering establishments, had spent 10 years working on various formulations before settling on what would become Dapper Dan Matt Paste; a versatile matt product that was universally well received by customers and fellow barbers alike. The Matt Paste has proven to be the jewel in Dapper Dan’s crown, and continues to be their best selling product.

In 2014 the Matt Paste was joined by a Matt Clay and Deluxe Pomade; completing a core range of three styling products. The Matt Clay provides great hold with an ultra matt finish. The Deluxe Pomade is a premium water-based product; medium hold, medium shine. Simon says that ‘we were confident in the Matt Paste, because we’d trialled it for years in the barbershop, but we’ve been delighted by the reception of the clay and pomade’. In the US especially, Dapper Dan Deluxe Pomade has made a name for itself amongst pomade aficionados.

This year Dapper Dan have focused on the UK barber scene, building a base of loyal stockists and brand ambassadors. James May, Simon’s brother and Co-Director, said ‘we’ve got such a vibrant and creative scene in the UK ; there’s nowhere better for barbering in the world right now. We are focused on collaborations with really interesting, meaningful initiatives, such as Guerilla Barbering’.

Our strongest matt product. Plenty of hold with a dry finish. Great for those messy looks.

Having exhibited at Barber UK, Barber Connect and The Great British Barber Bash in 2015, Dapper Dan have presented their range to multiple barbers and retailers, using these opportunities to distribute samples and encourage product trials by industry professionals. The range has proven popular due the the combination of premium products, authentic vintage packaging and highly desirable point of sale. ‘We source our presentation boxes from a Cuban cigar box maker, based in Miami.

The products are proudly ‘Made in England’, but the brand identity is firmly rooted in Americana’.

Dapper Dan is now sold in over 20 countries.

With demand strong for further Dapper Dan products, the brand have diversified, recently releasing Dapper Dan Barbering Aprons and Dapper Dan Shaving Mugs. 2016 will see the full launch of the Dapper Dan shaving range.

The brothers’ latest project is the imminent opening of the flagship Dapper Dan Barbershop.

Located in Sheffield City Centre, the hunt is on for the right barbers and manager to drive the barbershop forward. ‘It’s a great opportunity for us to present the products as well as we possibly can, whilst delivering 1st rate cuts for the good folk of Sheffield’ says Dan, sorry, Simon. ‘I get called Dan all the time nowadays, but that’s Ok; I’ve got used to it!’

Our top selling product and the ultimate in versatile styling pastes. Strong and pliable hold.

Medium hold, medium shine. This waterbased pomade does exactly what it says on the tin. Sweet!

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The Master Barbers.

Robert Rix

Words from the Wise

F

ollowing on from the successful launch of BarberNV at the Great British Barber Bash in Glasgow in July, I have been asked by the publishers to make a regular contribution to the editorial content of the magazine. Needless to say I feel very privileged and honoured at this request but somewhat slightly daunted by the blank page that is now sitting before me just waiting for the words to be placed upon it.

So where do I start? The first question that comes into my mind is why have they asked me? And the only answer I can come up with is the fact that I’ve been in the craft all of my working life, which by the time that this article goes to print will number 54years.

Over that huge slab of time I’ve worked for and with the best in the industry. By my early 20’s I had moved from my native Sheffield and made my way via the Sassoon school onto London’s Bond Street- gaining the chance to see at first hand, the work of such greats as, Josh Galvin & Roger Thompson. I was mentored by Roger Poirier, to whom I have a great debt of gratitude for his teaching; Roger was not only World Champion, but he was also the personal hairdresser to HRH King Edward 8th – The late Duke of Windsor. Roger appointed me as his personal assistant.

Robert receiving tuition from Roger Poirier – Personal Hairdresser to King Edward 8th - Duke of Windsor

44 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

“I was mentored by Roger Poirier, to whom I have a great debt of gratitude for his teaching; Roger was not only World Champion, but he was also the personal hairdresser to HRH King Edward 8th – The late Duke of Windsor..”

The Master Barbers.

I now hold Master Craftsman status in both Ladies and Gents Hairdressing and was only the 4th person in Britain to gain this distinction. Add to all that the fact that I act as an international competition judge for various hairdressing bodies and you will start to appreciate the depth of knowledge that I hold.

To check out other facets of my background take a look at the 1st edition of BarberNV pages 24-25 and you will see that I really have “been there, done that and well and truly got the T Shirt.” Please don’t think that I’m some old guy who is totally past it and living on former glory, no, I still work a full column 6 days a week and love every minute of it.

I work in partnership with my Son Dan and together we run The Master Barber’s Shop in Southport. We both teach and deliver seminars together. Our fashion photographic work has been featured in many magazines and I hope that we have something of a reputation in the industry.

In addition to all of that, I sit on various hairdressing advisory boards to help elevate standards of education within the craft.

Robert at 60’s Award Ceremony for Apprentice of the Year

What I hope to get over to you in these articles in the coming editions of Barber NV is an insight into the world of Barbering from the perspective of someone who has done it for a long time; there are few current practitioners of the craft who have an equal track record, and consequently, the broad knowledge that I can offer to you – the reader should prove invaluable. I will endeavour to bring to you in each edition a few jewels of firsthand knowledge that you simply won’t find by searching the web. Don’t get me wrong, on some of the stuff that is doing the rounds on the net, there are some really great tutorials out there that deserve to be studied, but there are also some utter pieces of trash that are downright factually incorrect and misleading.

The web has given us as craftsmen a wonderful window of opportunity to showcase our work but it has also opened up a portal for the self promoting individual to build himself an online persona and to stoke their own ego to levels beyond belief. My advice is, view all online content with a certain degree of scepticism and seek corroboration of any facts before either adopting them for yourself or passing them on to others.

Internet information is a bit like Chinese Whispers; the message gets changed and more exaggerated with every subsequent telling, until at the end of the line, little of the original message or intent is recognisable.

In the past 5years we have seen more change take place in the craft than ever before; suddenly being a Barber became the cool thing to do. The huge increase in the number of Barber Shop openings has been quite staggering. In some towns you can count the new openings into their teens. Growth at that sort of rate cannot be sustained and I predict that over the next few years we will see a rationalisation of the situation with some sort of dynamic restructuring. The market will decide and the good will prevail and the weak will go to the wall. Nationally we have seen crazy price wars being waged and the cheapest price I’ve personally seen is £3.00 for a haircut !! I am sure that all will agree that this type of charging is ludicrous and does nothing other than cheapen our trade. If a Client’s first consideration is price then let them go elsewhere; I want a Client to come to me because I’m a damn good Barber and not because I’m a quid cheaper than the guy down the road.

That brings me onto how to promote a professional image to public. When I started my apprenticeship in the early 60’s I was lucky enough to be engaged by a Barber who happened to be the local president of the National Hairdressers Federation. I know that the term Hairdresser does not sit well with a lot of Barbers but back then, the NHF was predominantly a Barbering organisation and no one that was involved was in the least bit put out being labelled as a Men’s Hairdresser. Well my boss got me into a NHF indentured apprenticeship for 3years in Men’s Hairdressing and I followed that on with a 2year improvership in Ladies Hairdressing.

So I became a hardened NHFer right from the get go.

If I can offer you one single bit of advice that will serve you throughout your career, it is be as professional as you can, put as much space between your operation and the rest of the crowd and don’t be afraid to charge a little bit more for your services; if you don’t value your own work no one else will.

Till next time, keep snipping and clipping, Robert Rix SHR SRSB MCH MCB

“If you own a barber shop or hair salon you really should consider becoming a member of The National Hairdressers’ Federation. Don’t let the name fool you, they cater for the barbering industry too and I myself first became a full member in 1974. The purpose of the NHF is to make running your business easier and to work with government on our behalf to voice our opinions and make things better for our industry.

Members get resources such as chair renting agreements, health and safety factsheets and business start-up guides, which are created specifically for our trade.

They also have services which address real business issues such as apprenticeships and the National Minimum Wage, plus the legal life line which can be accessed 24/7 and offers advice on everything from staffing issues to landlord disputes. With the introduction of pensions, they created a scheme specifically for us and even run events to help owners understand how pensions will affect their business.

The NHF inspires best practice and is committed to industry development, so becoming a member not only enhances your credibility in the eyes of your Clients, it also shows your commitment to running a legally compliant and professional business.”

You can check out my profile on the NHF website www.nhf.info/member-benefits/ member-stories/robert-rix/ Please also check out L@nhfederation Cnationalhairdressersfederation for all thing relating to NHF matters.

Another way I promote my professionalism is by being a State Registered Barber, as a member of the Hair Council and I am involved in promoting compulsory state registration for all Hair Professionals. Via my place on the Barber Council I have recently visited Parliament to lobby MPs about this cause. I am a lifelong advocate of State Registration and hope that it comes into being before I finally hang up my scissors. By the way, that eventuality is hopefully a long way off as I am as keen on the job now as I have ever been. There is a bit too much to say about this particular topic in this article so check out my separate ruminations on the Hair Council on page 12.

So whilst on the subject of craft and trade organisations I must mention that I have either memberships or associations with: The British Barbers Association, Men’s Hair Federation, The Fellowship for British Hairdressers and British Master Barbers Alliance; all of whom are worth bodies and do nothing but good to elevate the general standards of the industry and help to portray a professional image for the craft to the public at large. Whilst at Barber Connect this year I was fortunate enough to be awarded the ultimate craft accolade of “Grand Master Barber” by the British Master Barbers Alliance.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 45

From Boys in the Hood to Men of the World: Barbering Stories An interview with Larry the Barber Man

There’s a real revolution happening in the world of barbering; it’s no longer a profession for a loan ranger but instead aims to encourage young professionals to better themselves and helps them get started. I crossed the pond and sat down with the internationally acclaimed barbering experts David Diggs and Vick Damone to talk about beginnings, cuts, the UK, and the future.

David Diggs cuts a suave figure sat comfortably in one of his barber chairs.

There’s nothing surprising about his well-cut waistcoat, shirt and tie, all in cool black; yet his red trousers hint at the unique style that’s pushed him to the height of his profession.

He’s the author of the must-read social media page-turner ‘How to Build Your Business: Social Media Strategies For Barbers And Stylists’. David draws together his fantastic talent, experience in the field, as well as expertise of a well-trained team, to craft the inspirational documentary ‘The Barbershop Diaries’. “That was the goal of the barber shop diaries. As barbers, we listen to all of our client’s problems and goings on’s and family issues.”

The creator clarifies - “So this gives our barbers a chance to tell the world our story and what we’ve got going on.” David is no secret to a story and is a rags-to-riches professional who’s climbed to the top himself. He stated “I’m smiling a little bit because that’s the first time I’ve heard it described in that way. But my story as a barber is a long, tough one. A lot of people in my area know my story and even people at the locations I travel to. But I’ve had to face a lot of life hurdles, like everybody else.“ He paused here, thinking back before he continued - “Through my life hurdles there came a point that’s widely known; I was incarcerated in the California State 46 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Penitentiary for five years and upon my release, I used barbering to build my life and put my life back together.”

It is a humble start, and to have come such a long journey is a testament to the determination of David. “I started with zero, I started with nothing. I’d catch public transportation to San Francisco Barber College” he says, “and I would have my fingers crossed that I would make enough in tips to catch the transportation back home and maybe buy lunch if I was lucky.”

Vick Damone is based in San Jose, California and has managed to create an internationally recognised brand as both a professional barber and also seasoned

mentor. How did it all start? “I was cutting hair in the backroom of my mother’s laundromat” he explains, “and people would always tell me ‘why don’t you become a barber?’, and I kept putting off, and putting it off because it wasn’t something I thought I was capable of doing.”

Amazing how he proved his own beliefs wrong - “I was pretty much at the end of my line as far as knowing what I was going to do with my future,” he tells me, when I asked about how his barbering passion began. “I knew I wanted to do something” he adds, “everything I teach I’ve learnt for myself. I was fed up of not having anything; of not having any type of direction. I finally made a call to this barber shop.”

InternationalNV. It’s this drive and determination that has seen Vick feature in a range of roles, from: a judge on ‘Making the Cut’ to the launch of his own ‘A Cut Above The Rest’ instructional videos. “I signed up for barbering college that day.” He smiles, relating this.

There’s a definite sense of a journey when I speak to him, and he confides in me that “People think you get success overnight. A lot of people don’t realise or see the whole thing leading up to that success”.

Vick was also a keen bodybuilder and credits the skills and techniques he learnt while training as having an impact on his style and approach to barbering. “[It] helped me focus – laser light focus” he adds “I put those same principles into my barbering career and I knew pretty much from the gate what I wanted to accomplish.”

“Just keep going” he says, “you know even with working out… there are parts where it gets discouraging where you don’t see as many results. It’s the same thing with this.

In the beginning even with my YouTube I noticed big time results and then there were times where I felt like I was working even harder as a barber and an entrepreneur and doing different things, and I wasn’t seeing any results.”

“It made me almost go ‘You know what?

Just be a barber, just cut hair, and just be happy you own your own shop. But then a certain part of me is like ‘no, keep going.’”

There really is no arguing with the owner of The Barbers Inc Barbershop when he says, “It’s been a lot of hard work”.

In less than five years, David has established his own brand in the San Francisco Bay Area in a capacity which has seen him rocket to celebrity barber status.

“I’m proof that it’s possible” he tells me, as we sit amongst the thirteen chairs of his family-feeling shop. Now accomplished in his own right, David has turned his attention to the educational side of barbering. It was clear he has achieved much during his journey, and I asked about his motivation for teaching.

“I became a barber just to pay my bills” he tells me, “but the more I got involved with the industry, the more opportunity I saw.”

“I’m an ambitious guy” he says, and there’s no doubting that fact as we talk, sitting inside his business, “I felt I had a special thing for motivating, inspiring and articulating techniques.”

Appealing to me directly, he asks “That’s what a great teacher is right? You’re a teacher?” “Motivates and inspires, able to sort of teach you how to do things. So I found a line I was able to make mine” he concludes. In fact, he’s so good at what he does he has only recently returned from a trip to the London School of Barbering where he had a guest spot, as well as a little bit of touring to show off his talents.

With both men there is a definite sense of

drive, and in wanting to achieve more than they already have despite having reached their own fantastic levels. I wondered what made Vick into the barbering extraordinaire he is today: was it the school of hard knocks that taught him how to make a business out of his passion, or did reading and learning through study help to put him into another league?

“I’d say not a little bit of both, but a lot of both. I’ve been through a lot of stuff” he tell me “I try to read as much [as I can], and lately I put myself back on a strict regimen and try and knock down at least one book every two days.”

He tipped me off that some books “are the type that you go through, read like a couple of chapters a day”. He suggests that “so long as it averages out”, reading consistently about the craft helps to give you fresh ideas and also refine skills so that you make a good cut 100% of the time.

“If I don’t feel like it’s doing anything for me – then I go on to the next”. Clearly it’s about knowing your own style and how you learn best. With Vick’s own work, I really respect the way he translates information for the barbering community and relates it personally to his readers; there’s a feeling that he’s trying to show you how it will fit in with your own business and life.

Social Media and Education As an ongoing theme, I like to understand how different professionals in the barbering industry feel about a tool that is being utilised by barbers the world over. “I don’t

think the goal of an educator is just to get followers,” he explains, “it takes time to become an educator and I think some guys think it’s just a cool title”.

He offers advice to any aspiring teacher saying: “before you proclaim you’re an educator, make sure you’ve fine-tuned your craft. There is a craft to education, you don’t want to get up there and just cut hair. You have to be able to talk and articulate every single step.”

There’s no doubting the success of the business he has built working alongside his team to create something special.

“Downtown San Jose isn’t the only group of people paying attention to social media,” he explains how that collectively his team hammered social media in a bid to simply increase their own clientele.

“Little did we comprehend that the world was watching. Social media has been the key to my success and it’s put me on the world stage.” David has in fact become a member of the International Education and Style team for Andis Clipper Company.

Vick has had experience sharing his knowledge and experience to a wide audience. In 2014, he was selected to be one of the judges on ‘A Cut Above the Rest’, the first reality show of it’s type. “I got a phone call”, he tells me, “we had a meeting… and we talked about it. I’m all about bringing up young barbers and teaching them what it really means to be a hard-working dedicated barber.” - “It was something I wanted to be a part of.”

David has established his own brand in the San Francisco Bay Area in a capacity which has seen him rocket to celebrity barber status

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 47

InternationalNV. Motivating other barbers to get started is at the heart of everything Vick does and its obvious how much he wants to help people learn. With over 120,000 subscribers on his YouTube channel, Vick the Barber has built a business from his experience with the videosharing format. “I knew how to get my videos views,” he says. “I knew if I wanted to make videos for YouTube then I wanted them to be high quality and put out the best thing I could put out.”

“I had watched a couple of other barbers that inspired me… I thought it was cool to see that they had their products and they had their different things. I had my goals that I wanted to accomplish and I’ve seen that YouTube was helping a lot of people, not just barbers.

I started studying a lot of different types of channels.”

“Healthy competition is good for you,” he says, talking about haircutting battles. There’s a definite feeling that now he has achieved a recognisable status he shouldn’t be entering into challenges and competing with other people, but he defends his love for the game by telling me “I don’t put myself on a pedestal like celebrity barbers”, and adds “I just do what I do, this is like second nature to me.”

It’s this informal access that people have to Vick that allows him to inspire a new generation of barbers and motivate them to improve on their natural talent. From total newcomers to veterans of the industry, Vick the Barber is obviously keen to teach practical and dynamic skills to help with professional development.

This is a common theme with both men; West coast, born to a life where barbering was not on their radar, now drawing big crowds to barbering expos, starring in TV talent shows, and making guest appearances at some of the most well-known schools in the world (including our very own London School of Barbering).

With his new book, David Diggs teaches appraising barbers how to literally build their business as the title suggests, and uses his own life experiences to tell that how it can be done. “Social media has definitely changed my life, and I’ve put everything I know about social media in this book.” If that’s not an excuse to order one right away, then I don’t know what is!

His world experience has been brought together in his documentary “The Barbershop Diaries”, and I wanted to know if he intended to inspire other would-be barbers who were down on their luck to get motivated and stay focussed.

“Somebody asked me once ‘aren’t you happy you found your passion?’ and I thought ‘Wow, I’ve found my passion and I didn’t even know what it was’… Is barbering my passion I had to ask myself? “Barbering is my avenue; my passion is helping people, my passion is improving other people’s lives. So the goal with Barber Shop Diaries is to help people.”

Vick the Barber has started to build his own 48 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

With over 120,000 subscribers on his YouTube channel, Vick the Barber has built a business from his experience with the video-sharing format

brand but isn’t detached from the reality of business. He is set to launch his own product range from his barber shop called Timeless which features the gels and foams that any professional barber needs to take their career to the next level. This, coupled with the release of his fantastic new book ‘The Barber Bible’ means big things are happening for Vick in the near future. “I just finished the last chapter, ” he tells me, “and it was crazy because some chapters I were writing I was literally shedding tears because it’s partly about my journey as a barber and mistakes I’ve made that I don’t want other people to make.”

“That’s how you learn to become successful in anything you do; you have to make mistakes.

Either that or you have to learn from somebody else’s mistakes. In my case there were certain things that I just had to go through to get to where I’m at.”

I asked him what set this book apart and how it benefited any new barber who was reading it for the first time. He told me “It’s basically an A-Z everything you’re going to come into contact as a barber with and starts you off with going to barber college.” He concludes “just like my DVDs, you can pick up this book and learn how to cut hair.”

The book covers everything you might need to know, from looking for the perfect barbering college to finding your first barbershop to work in. It’s also filled with the personal experiences of Vick and gives reader’s a glimpse into his life and his journey.

As we finish our interview, I ask him what’s special about the room we’re in. “I’ve always wanted my own barber shop” he says, “I always wanted my own little space… I can

come in here, sit down, and just read while the other guys are cutting hair.” It gives him a unique setting to film his videos and also keep on learning.

There’s also something about David that tells me he’s not finished yet so I asked him what the future holds.“ [For] 2015 my goal was all about creating products; creating the instructional DVD series, writing my book, being in a documentary; at the end of the year I’ve got an app in development and I’m probably going to release it in December.”

“It was all about creation of material,” he explains, “2016? I want to spend my focus on getting that material out there and making sure everyone it can help gets it.” It’s clear that he has a real passion for teaching what he knows and genuinely wants to help young barbers get started.

Give us one clue about what the app’s about?

He laughs, hesitates, and then says “The app fills in gaps. There are some amazing apps out there… I have had a chance to sit back and work out room for improvement.” He’s playing his cards very close to his chest. Perhaps in this one instance, he’s not read to teach as all just what he can do.

It has been a really eye-opening time speaking to both men. They are both so unique in their style and approach but both share a deep-rooted passion to educate people about an industry that’s so close to their hearts. Whether they’re interacting through Instagram, Facebook, or YouTube, it is more than clear that they have no issue with access – you can find them anywhere and take their lessons as fast, or as slow, as you want to.

One things for sure, David Diggs and Vick the Barber are at the forefront of the education revolution and we expect big things from them both, as they continue to inspire, motivate, and educate barbers old and new.

To see more of the phenomenal similarities, work and personality that these two exude, check out my interviews with them at: www.larrythebarberman.com/barbernv2 – unpublished, until now! It’s rare to find a more enjoyable talk with such dynamic personalities.

Just as well, for those interested in more things from David Diggs and Vick the Barber, be sure to keep up with and follow them at: @DaveDiggsTheBarber Instagram, @VickTheBarber Instagram and for anyone who has any questions, ideas or wants more info, please email me at info@larrythebarberman.com

Scottish Barber Shop of the Year.

An interview with Laura Boyd

STEP INSIDE THE SCOTTISH BARBER SHOP OF THE YEAR: HOUSE MARTIN There’s a new barber shop in the House… House Martin, and in just ten months since opening, the effortlessly cool, yet classy establishment in Glasgow has gone from being a relatively unknown shop on the scene, to one where you’ll have to book well in advance to stand a chance of getting an appointment.

Oh, and they just happen to have taken the title of Scottish Barber Shop of the Year at this year’s prestigious Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards.

Quite an achievement!

So where did House Martin come from?

We caught up with the man behind the shop, Stephen Martin to find out more…

Some say barbering is in the blood and that is certainly the case for Stephen.

Stephen comes from a long line of wellrespected barbers, with many members of his family owning barber shops throughout Scotland.

His dad is the man behind the affectionately known ‘barbers under the bridge’ – Smart’s Barbers on Argyle Street Glasgow and it is there, Stephen got a taste for the trade, sweeping floors and enjoying the banter on weekends while he was at school.

He wasn’t straight through the doors, clippers in hand, though when his exams were over.

Stephen initially went to university to study Civil Engineering, but he soon realised this wasn’t creative enough and that his heart lay in the industry he grew up in – barbering.

Although he trained in his dad’s shop, it was his decision to move to London (for love) that really opened his eyes to the way male grooming was going and the possibilities that lay ahead.

Upon his return to Glasgow, Stephen knew he was ready to open up his own barber shop, taking the skills he had learnt from his family and combining them with his vision for a relaxed, enjoyable experience that would offer more than just a quick trim.

That is where the idea for House Martin was born.

Situated downstairs on Glasgow’s Bath Street, close to hairdressing institution Taylor Ferguson, the black and gold retro signage is instantly inviting, leading you to believe there is something quite special happening beyond those doors – and you would be right.

Explaining the idea behind House Martin’s interior, Stephen told Barber NV: “For me, it was very much about building an experience.

Not only offering great cuts and styling but also somewhere my clients could enjoy.

“We have a coffee bar, featuring Glasgow’s very own Dear Green coffee – we take our coffee very seriously and every customer gets a free cup.”

There’s also a bar and an incredible sound system, with music being key to the atmosphere Stephen wants to create.

He admitted it was a risk, putting so much of himself into the shop, but it is one that has certainly paid off.

And it’s not just these elements that add to the ‘experience’ at House Martin’s.

Stephen has thought of every detail, including the custom designed oak units for individual private service areas and the ‘integrated vacuum service’ to make sure there are no hairs left on your collar. No detail has been spared.

Stephen initially feared how the shop would be received. Would it be too different? And he told how it wasn’t a fairy-tale start; initially opening on Christmas eve to cut local panto stars’ hair whilst the joiners still finished the work around them.

The doors officially opened in January this year, with just Stephen working in the shop.

He said: “It was an exciting but nerve wracking

time. Sometimes I would be in the shop all day, from 9-7, and no one would walk through the door.”

But Stephen knew he had to stick at it and with the help of social media, he began to get noticed. Customers would come and then immediately book to come back again and soon Stephen found his books were filling up.

Fast forward to now and business is booming.

Stephen now has six staff and demand could not be higher.

He said: “It’s amazing. People seem to really have embraced the ethos of the shop and whether it’s a cut or a beard trim, our client base is expanding day by day.”

Stephen and his team’s hard work was recognised when House Martin won the title of Best Barber Scottish Barber Shop of the Year at this year’s Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards.

Stephen said: “That was a brilliant moment but I have to say that it was so nice to see all the other barbers in Scotland being the first ones to come and congratulate us. There may be rivalry, but it is friendly rivalry and I think it’s really nice to see quite a scene building up in Glasgow.”

“We celebrated in style, with quite a few sore heads in the morning, but every time I look at the award I’m reminded that all our effort has been worth it. Now we need to work to retain it!”

He’s got the shop. He’s got his own House Martin product range. What’s next for this talented Scot?

“I should maybe think about getting my dad to stock my products - that would be a start!

But seriously, I would like to open more shops in Glasgow and if they take off, further afield. It feels like this is just the beginning.”

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 49

BusinessNV.

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WHAT IS YOUR USP?

Liz McKeon

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‘Boost sales by positioning your business as the best in the market’

W

hat makes you personally, or your barber shop, more unique, more valuable and more visible in the market? Having a Unique Selling Proposition or ‘USP’ will dramatically improve the positioning and marketability of your business and products by accomplishing three things:

Identify which needs are going unfulfilled in your local market. The need that exists between the current situation and the desired objectives is termed a ‘performance gap’. Many barber shops that base their USP on industry performance gaps are very successful.

Selling: It persuades a client to buy from your barber shop.

Step 5: Condense into one clear and concise sentence The most powerful USP’s are so perfectly written, you cannot change or move even a single word. Each word earns you money by selling you products and services. After you get your USP written, your advertising and marketing will practically write itself!

Unique: It clearly sets you apart from your competition, positioning you as the more logical choice.

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Proposition: It is a proposal or offer suggested for acceptance.

Your USP is the force that drives your business and success. It can also be used as a ‘branding’ tool that is included with every tactical marketing effort you use, such as business cards, brochures, website or your social media pages. This allows you to build a lasting reputation while making sales.

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Your USP is the very essence of what you are offering. It needs to be so compelling that it can be used as a headline that sells your product or service. Therefore, since you want to optimise all your marketing materials for maximum results, create it before any other advertising or marketing material.

Step 1: Use your biggest benefits Think in terms of what your barber shop does for your client and the end result they desire from your service.

Step 2: Be unique Basically, your USP separates you from the competition, and illustrates that your business is the most logical choice. Write your USP so it creates desire and urgency.

Stay in touch with your clients all year round with automated email and SMS marketing.

If you’d like to see more please visit www.shortcuts.co.uk/barber 50 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Step 3: Solve an industry ‘performance gap’

Step 4: Be specific and offer proof Clients are sceptical of advertising claims.

Alleviate their scepticism by being specific and offering proof where possible.

Step 6: Integrate your USP into all marketing materials Variations of your USP will be included in all your marketing materials such as: • Advertisements • Business cards, brochures, flyers and signage • Phone and sales scripts • Letterheads and postcards • Website and internet marketing Step 7: Deliver on your USP promise Be bold when developing your USP but be careful to ensure that you can deliver. Your USP should have promises and guarantees that capture your client’s attention and encourages them to book with you. Having a strong USP can make your business a big success, or a big failure if you don’t deliver on it, thereby risking your reputation.

Build your USP to optimise your marketing materials for maximum results. If your barber shop has a good, clear and honest USP there is an excellent chance that you will be able to compete on factors other than price. And, that means that your business will be more profitable! And, as we all know profitability is the name of the game...

Liz McKeon is a bestselling Author, Key Note Speaker, Business Coach & Trainer, specialising in the Hair, Beauty and Spa Sector. For information about Liz’s upcoming events, on-line training Programmes and Business Seminars, check out www.lizmckeon.com.

BusinessNV.

GELLING WITH YOUR CUSTOMERS

T

his year has seen the rise of the styleconscious man, and barbershops may now find themselves offering more than just the typical quarterly shave. As a barbershop’s repertoire becomes ever broader, it is vital that business owners understand the needs of their customers in order to build strong relationships and keep up with the competition from larger players…and beauty salons!

In a recent YouGov study, carried out by FDMS, we found that over half of SMEs (58%) in the leisure and hospitality sector, including barbers, do not “completely” understand their customers’ needs and requirements. The study also found that only 22% of those questioned use data and analytics to assess interactions with their customers.

So where can data prove priceless?

Creating a tailored approach

In a parallel survey, 66% of consumers said that being sold a product or service that they were not interested in would be likely to make them leave a shop without making a purchase. However, only 22% of SME owners in the leisure and hospitality sector identified this as a problem. If you’re constantly bombarding customers with unwanted offers, you could risk losing their business. Instead, if you’re able to analyse transaction history you’ll know which customers tend to come in regularly for a trim and a shave, and which customers spend more on other treatments. From this, you can then offer relevant and personalised promotions.

Stock checking

Data can also solve that awkward “sorry we’re out of stock” situation. If you’re able to track items when they’re ordered in, and when they run out, you can make sure you’re never caught out. If you know you have a customer who always requests a particular hair gel, or requires a certain type of shampoo, you can make sure that you’re fully in stock before they come in for their appointment, ensuring that you keep your regulars satisfied and impressed with your service.

Payment perfection

The study also revealed that one third of consumers (33%) would leave a shop if they didn’t accept their preferred payment method. By utilising your data, you can again get a step ahead of the rest when deciding what payment methods to offer. If you can see that most of your customers come in for a shave or a trim below £30, you might consider investing in a contactless terminal or promote that you now accept contactless payments using Apple Pay for example.

The recent rise in spend limit clearly proves how customers value convenience!

The changing needs of the male customer means that barbers need to be working on their customer relationships more than ever. By using the masses of data that runs through your shop every day to provide valuable insight into your customers, you can ensure that your customer relations are a cut above the rest!

TOP TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL BARBER SHOP Salon Evolution Director, Steven Gunnip, shares his wisdom on the small details that can make all the difference to your barbershop

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hen it comes to barber shop success, there isn’t one magic ingredient that can ensure a thriving business. Time, effort and a commitment to the smaller factors that can often have the biggest impact should be consistently employed in order to create a prosperous salon.

Before anything else, think about your unique selling point (USP), that is, what do you do differently to any other barbershop in town? What do you want to be known for? It’s these key things that you should be aiming to promote and deliver to each client that walks through the door, ensuring a cohesive service every time. Make sure that your client base knows about the things you offer that no other barbershop in the region does, as well as your specialist areas. Put these things at the forefront of your business and promotions, as they will really set you apart over the competition.

For any hair salon, the consultation is perhaps the most crucial part of the entire client journey and one of the best marketing tools, however this process is not a common feature in most high-street barbershops.

Capitalise on this by taking the time to find out your client’s wants and needs; it’s this that will make all the difference to the overall service you provide and how the client feels about their visit. Every barber has a wealth of knowledge under their belt, so making sure that you can communicate this knowledge to the people that will be most receptive to it – your clients – is crucial.

Many clients won’t know the precise terms for what they want, so it’s your job to ask the right questions to determine what exactly it is they would like and regularly check back in for their opinion to ensure that they are happy throughout. The consultation is also a prime opportunity to use your expertise to recommend products and additional services that will be of benefit; your clients will appreciate receiving specialist, tailored knowledge, allowing them to recreate their hairstyle easily at home. One of the main things to ensure is that the client goes away with much more knowledge about their hair than before their appointment.

In a world with so much choice, it’s important to place a firm emphasis on the little details that will really make your business stand out from the rest. The market is there for male salons that provide a different experience and atmosphere. Think about each stage of the client journey and the ways in which you can create more of a memorable experience. Instead of the standard water or juice, why not offer clients a drink from a menu of craft beers or speciality coffees? You could even consider setting up a mini bar with gin cocktails on a Friday night, or a coffee bar over the weekend, to create a real buzz during your busiest time. How about including a hand or head massage when clients are at the backwash, introducing a selection of luxury men’s magazines to read or setting up a widescreen TV showing sports matches for entertainment? This will not only delight the clients already being seen but, as much of your custom is likely to be walk-in, will also keep potential clients happy while they are waiting, preventing them from walking out the door to a competing barber down the street. Added details, and anything that makes the experience that bit more memorable, distinguishing you from the many competitors in town, will set you on the road to barber shop success.

Never underestimate the importance of a smile, a greeting and some friendly chatter. This can often be one of the most under utilised marketing strategies, but is one of the most effective and also won’t cost you a penny. Become interested in your clients and treat them as you would guests in your home. Make a note of what the client was up to the last time they visited; were they heading to a special event or going on holiday? Remembering to ask them about it at their next appointment will make them feel valued and more important than just another customer. Your clients aren’t just visiting you for a haircut but also a feeling; if they enjoy the experience they will be more likely to return in the future.

RICHARD SIMON,

Client Propositions Director, First Data Merchant Solutions (FDMS)

For more information contact Steven at info@salonevolution.co.uk or visit www.salonevolution.co.uk BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 51

Man behind the Brand.

TALKING SHOP WITH DIMITRI MATHEOU OF CRONUS BARBER SHOP FURNITURE While the cuts and standards of styling are key to making your barber shop a success, the layout and design of a shop can help make or break the salon in this highly competitive market.

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rom vintage inspired salons, to something a little bit different; the range in designs of barber shops is constantly growing and evolving, which is great news for this month’s Man Behind the Brand: Dimitri Matheou.

Dimitri runs Cronus Barber Shop Furniture and he designs most of the barber and hairdressing products himself.

He told Barber NV: “It started off 18 months ago when I had the idea to design a children’s cutting station. People where already selling children’s styling chairs in the form of cars & motor bikes, but I couldn’t find anybody doing kids styling stations.

Dimitri had just opened a new salon and the shop was 1000sqft, with a 300Sqftplay area fitted on two levels inside it.

“I wanted to make the salon appealing to families rather than just the trendy crowd. This is when I came up with the idea of the car mirrors! I bought a basic mirror in the shape of a car and we started to use that.

When the staff complained that there was no shelf and that the mirror was not high enough, I designed my own. I found a family run business in the Philippines that would manufacture our product and by that time, I had more ideas I was dying to create.

“I flew over to the Philippines with some rough pencil drawings, a bottle of single malt and and after 3 days I had a product range!”

This was not a cheap process with the cost of moulds mounting to £200,000 before Dimitri had even got started – but it was a financial gamble that paid off.

“We now have a 3,000 sq. ft warehouse and are awaiting our 4th shipment from the Philippines.”

Dimitri’s a man who knows what he wants and what barber shops need, having been in the industry for over 30 years.

From barber poles, to chairs, to eye catching signage; he understands what it takes to stand out from the crowd.

“Some of the key people in the profession have purchased products from us, as well as some of the the bigger companies.

“At present our hanging signs are the most popular, especially the scissors and cut-throat.”

He added: “The design of each shop is a reflection of its owner. There are so many different characters and personalities out there, that there will always be a wide variation of barber shops opening up.

To compliment some of the more modern salons opening, I have produced a Black/White/Silver barber’s pole.”

52 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Dimitri said that his clients are “mostly barber shop owners, with a good selection of Ladies Hairdressers also buying our products. We have had a good response from overseas distributors, in Portugal, Italy, Ireland, Belgium, Germany etc, and are currently working alongside several of these to arrange distribution within their countries.”

So what would this man in the know recommend for someone starting out in kitting out their shop?

“A good Barber’s chair, good outside sign to get visibility and noticed and an attractive price board for inside your window (3ft cut-throat razor with board, in case you’re looking on Cronus’s website).

Check out more of Cronus’s designs and products at www.barber-shop-furniture.com

“The design of each shop is a reflection of its owner. There are so many different characters and personalities out there, that there will always be a wide variation of barber shops opening up”

BusinessNV.

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Tel +44(0)845 0944415 Email info@barber-shop-furniture.com

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 53

BusinessNV.

KEVIN HAMM:

SALON DEVELOPMENT TRAINING

We know that being in this industry we are naturally social people, therefore good at talking. Figures show that in our environment the balance of conversation should be 70% client and 30% Barber however, in reality, it is in fact the other way around - most of the problems me may get in the shop or in life emanate from bad communication.

COMMUNICATING:

•

7% Words

•

55% Body Language

•

38% Voice tone/pauses

From this we can see that in fact it is more important how we say something rather than what we actually say, for example: “how are you today”? using one tone, resulting in a negative response wishing you had never asked. By using a more enthusiastic varying voice tone you will find the reply will more positive e.g. “I’m fine, how are you”.

Same words different tones and different replies. This alone can make your job much easier, enthusiasm is contagious not just for staff but for clients too.

What the body says: the major part of communication is understanding body language. Body language is something we all do, although some people are easier to read than others e.g. Italians easier than Russians! If you understand it you can then use it as a tool, which is what I teach in my training sessions. I show you how you can totally control a client without them being aware. I can make clients ask me questions when I want them to ask them, look at things when I want them to look at them, without them being aware.

My first salon was quite small, 5 units and looked pretty average, I then moved up market to larger premises; reception boasted a Grand Piano, antique furniture, with 11 styling units down stairs, 10 upstairs, and a client VIP room. Sounds good? But from the start I realised there was a problem…

54 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

CLIENT EXPECTATION!

When clients came into the first salon, they had medium expectation as I offered great service/styling, therefore over fulfilling clients’ expectation result… happy, satisfied returning clients.

The second salon looked fantastic, and I was still offering the same level of service, but was struggling to hit client expectation. As a result, during the following months I developed a system based on using communication skills, and body language as the base, plus using specific words during client visits.

This lead to an increase in other services, in addition to retail sales, and most importantly fulfilled client expectation leading to repeat visits.

• If shampooing us another word. I use cleanse creates interest • Product placement. Place styling on the right of the unit

• Use the word “YOU” “you will find when you use it”……..

• Out stretch your arm when picking up products (Point)

• To know the features and benefits of the products • Explain how they can achieve the look

Here are some of the basics: Smile: First impressions count, you should also smile when answering the phone.

Consultation: This is the most important part.

• Stand or use a cutting chair at the side of the client

• You should be the same level plus about 6” higher • If dealing with a complaint 12” higher • Always talk through the mirror (you have more control)

• Always give the customer the chance for a change • When suggesting an idea make contact with the customers elbow

The system is simple, the hard part is changing habits and putting it into practice, as there is no excuse for poor customer service, and you cannot afford to get it wrong. More people change their barber/stylist in January and February than at any other time of the year, why? Because they weren’t looked after during October, November and December, new year time for a change.

For more information or if you would like a copy on the Barbering Customer Service Comic or would like to know more about in salon training, please email: kevinhamm00@gmail.com

BusinessNV. An interview with Laura Boyd

Dan Gregory’s Man Made success In the heart of Marleybone, you’ll find Man Made Gentleman’s Grooming Room: one of the most sought after Barber Shops in London, if not the UK.

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s well as hair care; Man Made offers a range of aesthetic services in a luxurious, relaxed setting. The man behind all of this is Dan Gregory, a leading light in the barbering world, but he insists his shop’s success and desirability is very much down to teamwork.

Dan told BarberNV: “I have a very strong barbering team working alongside me in Tom Bell and Josh Higdon. My uncle Dr Peter Gregory is our resident Doctor at the clinic, which has proven to be very popular.”

Man Made offers everything from haircuts, traditional wet shaves, scalp treatments and hair treatments, to bespoke services such as the ‘one-to-one service for clients who would prefer the team to come to their residence or hotel suite.

Dan said: “We also offer fine line reduction, sweat reduction and derma fillers,” all treatments which are becoming increasingly popular in the barbering world.

“There are definitely more men out there willing to take our advice on hair and skin health for sure, but they are also looking into male aesthetics too.

“In the clinic, we have found that our clients are more open to this new male grooming option. Our sweat reduction service has been a big success with clients who have excessive sweating. It’s an unbelievable treatment with results lasting up to a year. “ As with so many of the barbers we have spoken to, Dan knows that the male grooming industry is booming, noting that: “The last time

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this was obvious was the days of Sinatra and that era and a bit before. Immaculately dressed, hair molded just right… it’s great to be a part of it.”

And it’s not just the image that Man Made creates for clients that has helped them stand out from the crowd.

The barber shop oozes class and sophistication in appearance, with a definite air of cool.

Dan explained: “I based it on a few different private members clubs I had visited throughout my time working in London and also with our job in mind.

“We have a reception desk as you enter, then our lounge area where you can help yourself to tea, coffee, wine whisky and beer etc. Then to the right of that we have our barbering area which consists of 4 stations with sinks infront to keep everything personal to you and your client.

“Behind that is our clinic which is sound proofed and completely private and discreet with no signage of what is behind the door.”

He continued: “It’s not a huge shop but we utilised every bit of space making sure it worked for us all. For example each workstation is exactly 4ft wide making sure each barber has enough space not to bump into the barber on his right or left and also gives the client enough room to feel like he is in a private space. We also have a pull out drawer which houses our clippers and their wires so it always looks clean and tidy.”

It’s these details that count and Dan is clearly onto something, with an impressive array of clients on his books.

“I just think being in the heart of Marylebone you get such a mixed bag of clients. From the extremely wealthy, to a few celebrities, to your trendy guy from the east end, with a few kids making up the list.”

Ever the professional, he wouldn’t divulge which stars have sat in his chair, but we sense there have been some very well known heads pass through the doors of Man Made.

As well as launching his own successful range of products last year, which are obviously top of Dan’s list of go-too tools, he said: “I’ve been using Hanz de Fuko a lot lately and their Quiksand product is awesome. My go to tools are my Wahl Cordless Super Tapers.

They are excellent clippers and I would highly recommend them to people who haven’t tried them yet.”

Dan may be extremely successful in his field, but even he knows every day is a school day, deeming education and seminars vital for the industry.

“What the guys at the BBA are doing, especially Sheriff and his shaving courses, is brilliant. I think there was a lack of men’s education for a while and it’s great to see the choice you have available now.”

Dan has the business side down, now he is ready to start competing and getting the accolades and awards he clearly deserves.

Better get a shelf built in Man Made Marleybone, Dan, we have a feeling you’re going to need it.

Health & Safety.

Barbershop Health & Safety Every barber is responsible for the health and safety of a barbershop, not just the owner.

British Master Barbers Ambassador Anthony Copeland

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ll customers, and in fact all that enter your premises, should be in a safe environment throughout their visit. Basic health and safety protocol can prevent injury, illness and costs to your business. Your shop’s reputation is at risk if you don’t keep up with sanitisation of equipment, chairs and work stations.

Regular cleaning of all equipment can prevent cross contamination between customers or staff. There are many infections that can easily be spread by contaminated tools chairs, gowns, towels and worktops.

Clean your work station regularly using disinfectants and ensure you wash towels and gowns as often as possible. Ensure you regularly change all blades between clients. Dispose of these carefully using a sharps box.

Using products like Barbicide, Clippercide and Medic spray can aid sanitisation of scissors, combs and brushes.

Cross infection between customers or staff can give your shop a bad reputation in a very short time. Nobody wants that!

Safety in the work place is also very important to your business.

If a member of staff or customer becomes injured as a result of poor health and safety procedures it could leave you under staffed or cause loss of custom.

In the USA, barbering governing bodies offer large fines for poor health and safety standards. They can enter a barbershop at any time and submit on the spot checks to make sure a high level of sanitisation is met.

Why does this not happen in the UK? Due to a lack of regulation in the UK, it is left completely to the barbershop owner and staff to maintain a standard.

So what should we be doing?

Basic Health and safety is simple:

Storing new blades is just as important so should be kept out of the reach of customers and children in a suitable dry storage container.

Trailing Leads Make sure clipper, hair dryer and all other electrical leads are not causing a trip hazard, hang all leads tidily off the floor and away from all wet areas.

Electrical failures Incorrectly maintained and serviced electrical items can cause electric shocks, Regular PAT testing (Portable appliance testing) can confirm and resolve all issues regarding electrical malfunction.

Working posture A barber spends a lot of time standing so over time poor working posture can cause a range of issues including back injuries, muscle spasms and various other pains. This can be prevented by using anti fatigue mats, wearing comfortable shoes and standing straight at all times. Most barber chairs have hydraulic pumps to raise the customer to the correct height make sure you use it.

Towels Use a clean towel for every client, place dirty towels in a covered bin & launder regularly.

Manual handling Move stock safely, take care lifting & unpacking, get help if needed, work at the correct height to prevent injury to your back & legs.

Sweep the floor Hair cuttings left on the floor can become a trip hazard especially when wet, make sure you sweep them up.

Dermatitis Up to 70 percent of barbers and hairdressers suffer from skin complaints such as dermatitis this can be easily prevented by wearing disposable non latex gloves when shampooing, shaving etc. Make sure your hands are thoroughly dried and moisturised after washing. Gloves must be changed between clients to prevent cross contamination.

Regular cleaning of all equipment can prevent cross contamination between customers or staff. There are many infections that can easily be spread by contaminated tools chairs, gowns, towels and worktops

Barbicide is one of the best sanitisation products on the market. You can sanitise almost any non-electrical barber tool by submerging into a Barbicide solution for a minimum of 10 mins. A link to the free Barbicide course can be found on the British Master Barbers Website under Health and Safety. On completion you will receive a personalised certificate to frame and put in your shop.

Clippercide is a perfect product for sanitising clipper blades. Simply remove all hair from the clippers and spray blades to guarantee clean sanitised clippers.

A Sharps container is very important. This is a safe place to dispose of all used blades, razors and any other sharp implements. A sharps container should always be kept out of reach of customers or children and must be disposed of in the correct manor. Disposal of a sharps container can be made by contacting one of the many sharps disposal specialists around the country, who will collect and dispose for a small fee.

Gloves It has become quite controversial over the last few years about using gloves when offering shaves. The pros of using gloves far outway the cons when it comes to health and safety. A lack of feel is undeniable so it is recommend you use gloves one size smaller for more sensation.

First Aid A suitably stocked first aid box must be provided and all staff should be made clear of the first aid box position and be adequately trained in first aid procedures.

The minimum items a basic first aid box should contain are: • Sterile disposable gloves • Eye pads • Medical tape • Individually wrapped sterile adhesive dressings of various sizes • Various size wound dressings and bandages • Antiseptic cream • First aid guidance leaflets BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 57

Scissor Maintenance.

UNDERSTANDING SCISSORS #2 CHOOSING AND BUYING SCISSORS: CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE

You spend a lot of time with your scissors so it is crucial that they do what you need them to do and feel very comfortable in your hand. ‘It is vital to your skill and professionalism that your equipment is of the highest quality. If it is not, it will let you down badly.’

Vidal Sassoon ‘Cutting Hair The Vidal Sassoon Way’ Buying scissors is an investment requiring money and time –it’s important to take time finding out about the manufacture, the metals used, as well as spending time holding them and cutting with them. It should not be a rushed decision and you should feel comfortable asking questions, and taking your time to find the right pair for you.

Ensuring you buy quality is of paramount importance – but it doesn’t always equate to parting with lots of your hard earned cash.

Whilst a good pair of scissors can’t be bought for less than the cost of a night out, it isn’t always a case of the more you spend, the better the scissors. As with all goods on the market, there are cheaply made scissors with expensive price tags, and counterfeit scissors are big business too.

Reputable companies will explain why there is a price difference across their range, and what you can expect in terms of performance and longevity, and it is worth putting in the effort to find a scissor company you trust - should anything go wrong with your scissors, a reliable supplier will work hard to sort out any problems.

Scissor manufacture at Excellent Edges, this part of the process is known as hot forging

Top Buying Tip From A Professional Barber ‘Spend what you can afford to spend on a good pair – if you buy cheap, you buy twice. Have them serviced regularly and professionally. If you pay a good price for your shears why would you not look after them?’ Pete Caine Cast Versus Drop Forged It is worth knowing whether the scissors you are considering are cast or drop forged – this should be reflected in the price and will definitely be a major factor in the performance and longevity.

The method of manufacture determines the density of the grain structure of the blades.

Cast scissors have an open grain structure; whereas drop forged scissors have a finer, more compact structure, which gives a stronger, longer lasting cutting edge Cast scissors are much cheaper to produce – a huge number can be made at once on a factory production line with heated metal poured into moulds. Typically, the scissors coming from China and Pakistan are made in this way.

Drop forged scissors take time to produce – and will be made of better metals and have greater and more consistent tensile strength: all top quality scissors are drop forged.

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Metals This is a huge subject on its own and we hope to be covering this in a later feature. Meanwhile, it’s important to know that metals are graded and offer different properties. Quality scissors start from an alloy mix known as 440B. Excellent Edges use this for their entry level scissors (from £99 to £195) and the popular barbering scissor, the Bladez Robin (BR) is made of this. Looked after daily, and with professional servicing, scissors in this range will easily perform well for 5-10+ years.

BR Sizes: 5”, 5.5”, 6”, 6.5”, 7” & 7.5” The next level up from 440B in the Excellent Edges range is Hitachi 440C - this is used in the recently launched specialist barbering scissor, the Condor. With proper care, daily maintenance and regular professional servicing, scissors of this quality should easily last 10+ years.

Hikari, well known throughout the industry for innovation and quality, use their proprietary blend of molybdenum, cobalt, and vanadium alloys to give their scissors the longevity and smooth performance they are renowned for.

The Cosmos range, including the Lefty Anatomic, shown below, gives great precision cutting on both wet and dry hair.

Hikari scissors range in price from £250 up to £1,495.

With all the trade shows and events coming up, a special mention needs to be made regarding cobalt scissors. Cobalt is very rust resistant, and in a high enough percentage, gives scissors a hard, durable edge perfect for blunt cutting. It is an expensive metal, and many scissor companies claim to have ‘true cobalt scissors’ when they

Chair Maintenance.

have either no cobalt or so little that it makes no appreciable difference to the scissors, apart from the price tag. If you are considering scissors advertised as cobalt, have a magnet with you to test the blades – a magnet will not stick if they are made with a decent amount of cobalt. A good scissor company will never mind you doing this.

Fakes As in most industries where named-brand goods are sold, there are companies looking to dupe buyers by selling counterfeit goods. As with all important purchases, it pays to check out the companies you are considering spending your money with. If you find your scissor of choice offered for a much lower price than you’ve previously seen, unless there is a legitimate reason (for example: discontinued model, or ex-demonstrator etc.) be wary: there has been a steep rise in fake products, across the board, and what you generally get are very inferior goods, that will not stand the test of time.

HOW TO MAINTAIN & TAKE CARE OF YOUR BARBER CHAIR. The most important part of the chair is how it functions and its compatibility to your clients needs.

Stephen Farrar, Custom Belmont Email: info@custombelmont.co.uk Twitter/Facebook: custombelmont

Trade Shows & Special Events These can be a great way to see a wide range of different brands and models. Find out who will be exhibiting beforehand, and the type of scissors they stock: this will save you time, especially at a very busy show.

Workshops Ideally, scissors should be thoroughly trialled before committing to a purchase. Workshops are a great way to do this, and learn much more about scissors, including how to properly take care of them. When you are considering adding to your existing scissor kit, being able to properly try different types of blades enables you to find out what each can do and how a different edge will aid your creativity. At Spencer Scissors, we offer a ‘Talk and Try’ workshop that enables participants to have a better understanding of their own scissors and how to get the most from them, and what to look out for when buying scissors – after this, there is ample time to try the wide range of both left and right hand scissors we stock from exclusive brands Excellent Edges and TruBlu, to Hikari, Yamato and Fuji, including the MF (and the SF, the left hand model) shown below

A supreme all-rounder makes the Fuji MF the go to scissor for many…and worth the initial expense, as they will last a lifetime of use with the proper care and servicing. ‘Yes they are expensive but they have blown my mind’ Peter Caine.

For further information on the workshops we offer please contact us via phone: 07817 082754 to speak to Spencer direct, Freephone: 0800 990 3193 or email: info@ spencerscissors.co.uk and Twitter: @spencerscissors.co.uk Before buying new scissors, it’s worth bearing in mind that unless you want to add a different type of edge to your scissor kit, you might just need to get your existing pair serviced – even if you have been unhappy with them from new. Often, scissors are not in correct sett, and once this has been corrected, they will cut perfectly.

To discuss what a professional service can do for your scissors, give Spencer a call on 07817 082754.

Your clients need to feel comfortable at all times especially if their having the full hot towel shave experience. Your chair needs to be taken care of regularly so that any underlying issues with the functionality can be address quickly and therefore continue to work for you & your clientele without disrupting your business.

are under serious daily strains. The Oil can get contaminated and blockages can occur.

Know body knows your chair like you so you should know when things just don’t seem to be working right. Working parts can wear down & break easily, so call in the experts and get it checked out, ready for another busy year.

Tip. 1 Your chair is an extended part of you and your business so its appearance like your own reflects your working attitude .

So make sure you give your barber chair a severe deep clean every couple of months.

This should start of with a brushing down or with the help of a hair dryer, blow away loose dust & remove hairs. Then move onto a hot soapy wipe down to remove any build up of product residue and grime. Now you can see what your chair used to look like, any further stubborn stains or worn in grime, use a mixture of white spirit roughly 10% to hot water and wipe until the stains have disappeared. For serious stains use neat white spirit on a cloth but always remove with soapy water immediately. On a day to day basis, wet wipes are perfect for hassle free cleansing.

Tip. 3 Keeping your chrome in tip top condition is the most important and cost effective way of saving money as good chrome plating is expensive. So this part is visually rewarding and cost effective. We recommend you wipe your chrome down with a cloth every week to keep on top of its shiny appearance. You can use many products from Brasso to Autosol these remove dirt & restore your chrome work.

Polish to a brilliant finish. These are the best products to protect against rust and tarnishing for a lasting mirror finish the custom belmont way.

Tip. 2 The hydraulic and braking system are the most important mechanical parts to your chair and should be serviced at least once a year. This part of the chair gets used daily and

Tip. 4 To keep cost down check each chair regularly. General maintenance can be completed by yourself as neglect is the most common cause of experiencing problems.

The tightening of bolts and being aware of how your chair should function will save you time and money. Prevention is always cheaper than the cure.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 59

Feature.

ANDREA

TIERNEY

An interview with Laura Boyd

When Andrea made the life-changing decision to become a barber at 40...

They say you’re never too old to follow your dreams, not that 40 is in any way old, but it was a bold decision by Andrea Tierney to return to college to learn to become a barber at that age.

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Gent s Room he in-demand barber, based at the the trade when BarberShop in Preston, got into and in 2012. she separated from her soldier husb / PRU wife army an being of years After ten for, she decided to lecturer in a FE college in Essex thing she had make a fresh start and pursue some hair.

– t abou onate passi been s alway soul into her The mum of three put heart and sought after training and is now a well-respected moment of stylist in the industry who loves every her job. the early 90s She told BarberNV: “Back then in is now, in fact if barbering wasn’t as popular as it to do anything you were to ask the local barber they would look at sides and back short a of outside !

Mars from you as if you were popular and “Ladies hair was definitely more les. Over the a more acceptable ‘trade’ for fema and male ring barbe tly, recen so more years and popular and more grooming has become extremely males as a career acceptable for females as well as choice. ring. Ladies “I like the fast paced aspect of barbe the service on nding depe hours 4 hair can take 3 to of men’s cuts and they require whereas the majority sometimes more styles can be done in 30 minutes, quicker than y cantl signifi but less, / sometimes female hair! rshop - ask any “I also love the banter of a barbe will tell you, I can of my work colleagues and they r stakes - you certainly hold my own in the bante peers and your can’t beat Barber banter with your customers!” stylists, From lecturers to many of her fellow nces influe ive posit many had Andrea has how Anthony throughout her career, but she told rs has had a huge Copeland of British Master Barbe influence. one and I will “Anthony believed in me from day the post. I opened never forget receiving a parcel in super tapers, a few it and it contained a pair of Wahl s, products and comb rs, scisso nsive expe of pairs to help in the ony Anth from s piece other bits and r. Although I have early stages of my barbering caree clippers, I still since bought several new pairs of

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have those and will never part with them!”

She continued: “Anthony has continued to support my career and even suggested I audition for the BBC hair show, which I did, not expecting to get anywhere. However after getting through all five heats I was invited down to London to showcase my skills. They were very impressed by my work and asked me to be first reserve on the 2015 series.”

Testament to Andrea’s talent, but she also credits her “lovely mum Sue” who has supported and encouraged her from day one.

Andrea has witnessed the industry grow at an amazing pace, and while she praises the camaraderie between barbers, she thinks some do a discredit to the industry by charging 3,4,5,6 pounds a haircut.

She explained: “ You train for years to become skilled at your trade, and in my opinion to offer your service for 3 pound is seriously selling yourself short. People will pay at least £10 or more for a decent haircut - look at ladies hairdressing, they are 5 times more expensive than men’s barbers!”

She has also seen male grooming take off, noting: “Barbering used to be a very macho experience and if you told your mates at work or down the pub that you were going for a tan and a manicure you would’ve been laughed at - now it’s perfectly acceptable.

“I think this has come about through celebrities and style icons such as David Beckham, who himself takes huge pride in his appearance and always looks perfectly groomed from top to toe.

These celebrities heavily influenced current trends.”

Andrea is proud of her fellow females in the industry and said: “It was a young female barber who snatched the title of Barber of the year, 21 year old Dieuwertje Prins, a very good friend of mine and an awesome barber (also in this month’s BarberNV).

“Other female barbers who I think are top class are Allison Scattergood, who teaches at EDC, Nikki Fox who I trained

with, Natalia Horne & Shelley Forsy the. There are lots more out there & the numbers are growing.

Whilst it is more acceptable for ladie s to cut men’s hair, there is still a stigma in some barbershops and more so with older clientele who still believe a Barbers should be men only - both staff and customer. I haven’t experienced any negativity myself but know female barbers that have, with client s refusing to have their hair cut by a female.

My answer to this is, women know what we want our men to look like so we are already a step ahead! “ I have tried a vast range of products however at the moment I have to say my favou rites are Dapper Dan Matt paste, fudge sea salt spray & fudge Matt head Gas. I also highly recommend the Dear Barber range. The packaging alone is simp ly amazing!

Amongst the numerous awards Andr ea has picked up over the years, she is proud to have just won pro hair and beauty industry hero of the year for her work homeless people.

“Twice a month I go along in my own time to Streetlife, a homeless shelter in Black pool and cut hair for free. I think it is important to give something back and whilst I don’t do it for any personal gain it is nice to be recognised.”

Driven, talented and ambitious, Andrea has set her sight s high, determined to open up her own shop... or three!

She added: “For any girls considerin g a career in barbering I would say go for it.

Even if like me you are later on in life, grab the bull by the horns - it truly has changed my life for the better! I recently read a quote “find a job you love and you will never work a day in your life for me that is now my mantra.”

“Never give up on your dreams.

Being a woman in a predominantly male Industry has not put me off or held me back. In fact on the contrary it makes me even more determine d to prove I’ve earned my place up there with some of the best barbers around.”

Feature.

The luck of the Irish The Irish Barber Select An interview with Laura Boyd

Impressed by barbering events, seminars and the passion for the industry throughout the UK, Neal Toner and his business partner, Mick Graham, decided it was time to form The Irish Barber Select.

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et up just a couple of months ago; they are already making waves in the barbering world, with Neal explaining: “We are a team of male barbers who work in our Northern Ireland businesses, but are striving to change the face of male grooming in Ireland overall.”

The reaction has been incredibly positive, as Neal told us: “We have five of the strongest barbers in Ireland on board, so a lot of people have started to take note. Social media has also been key in getting our name out there.”

The Irish Barber Select hopes to help Ireland’s barbers get noticed throughout the world and to increase education on home soil.

Of the barbering scene in Ireland, Neal said: “The scene is on the rise! In comparison with the UK, I guess we are lacking in education and platforms for younger guys coming through, but this is the space we are working towards filling.”

Mick Graham - Mick, 4 years in, is now the manager in one of the Just For Him Salons. Rapidly becoming a solid barber in the UK, Mick is going from strength to strength and is the second half of the JFH Bearded Boys.

So just who is involved in the Irish Barber Select?

Jay Murray - the Dublin native returns to home soil, after a year stint in Manchester under the Rugar Barber roof Jay has came home to set up shop in his home city. Jay is a massive asset to the Irish Barber Select and Irish barbering.

Neal Toner - Owner of the Just For Him MI&G Brand, also head of Education. Neal has made his mark on the UK scene this year and plans to do a lot more work on the main land this coming year.

Paul Preshaw - Paul works in the vintage Skinny Issacs salonm situated in Belfast City centre. After paving his way in another top salon, Paul now holds a filled dairy and managers roll in the big salon.

Ryan Cullen - One of Ireland’s finest, Ryan has made his name over the last few years clocking up celebrity clients. Ryan recently went solo and started Ryan Cullen Hair.

Conor Taaffe - The new kid on the block! Self taught barber from his own garage got noticed by Ryan Cullen early last year. Since teaming up with Ryan; Conor has paved his own way under Cullen’s name.

The guys will be heading out on the road later this year, spreading the Irish word at events across the UK. They also have high hopes for 2016, with Neal noting: “We have some real raw talent and passionate guys over here. This is our time to shine.”

Setting out on a mission, he added: We plan to put Ireland on the main stages for male grooming across the country. We are a nation of many talents, but this is one is yet to be recognised! Watch this space...”

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 61

TrainingNV.

FOUNDER OF MHFed

Adam Sloan

Why choose barbering as a career?

What’s involved in the qualifications you need?

What skillsets do you need?

Barbering as a profession is at an all time high. It’s a cool career with many amazing opportunities for young people to aspire to. Inspiration for young apprentices can be found on social media platforms such as Instagram, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter and Periscope.

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hen you qualify as a barber you can go on to do platform work, photo shoots, session styling, travel the world with this exciting skillset and even have your own Barber shop.

There are many inspirational barbers to follow on social media platforms, such as Alan Beak, Danny Robinson, Barberlove, Barber Connect, Martin Fox, Josh Lamonaca, Kevin Luchman to name but a few. The one thing that these inspirational barbers have in common is their seven day a week work ethic, they are all young men looking to carve a long and successful career and influence this industry.

Choosing the right employer is paramount to your success as a barber.

I believe it’s a three way partnership between the student, the learning provider and the employer. Too many employers want to blame colleges and colleges want more support from employers, and in turn apprentices sometimes don’t buy into this partnership. It’s essential that these

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three work together for the sake of the apprentice. I would choose wisely which shop you would start your apprenticeship with as you will only ever be as good as your trainer.

I have been in the industry since 1979, starting my career working for my father, Adam Sloan Senior, an award-winning barber and the best mentor any young hairdresser could wish for. He taught me the foundations of my career, to always update you skills, great work ethic and customer service being paramount to a successful career.

I have always been in love with this profession. This career has enabled me to become a platform artist, session stylist and develop educational DVDs. Also, I sit on the regulatory bodies for hairdressing for City & Guilds and I am a member of the Barber Council, continually campaigning for state registration.

I have just completed writing the Level 2 New Standards NVQ/SVQ Barbering and Level 3 NVQ/SVQ Logbooks for City & Guilds. This took two years of my life (really tough when you’re a one finger

TrainingNV.

typist). This didn’t come easy to me as I generally love the hands on creative side of the industry, but I was absolutely fed up with people criticising the college systems, of which they had good cause to. So I decided to do something about it and through the MHFed we called upon industry experts to make sure each unit had the necessary information from the industry leaders, who all run successful Barber Shops or Academies.

Who should choose this as a career? A creative streak is not always necessary as with the right training we can help you become a fantastic barber. An employer would look for a great attitude, good time keeping, fabulous social and communication skills and a desire to succeed. Being shy isn’t a problem as the industry will sort you out! The reason an employer would look for these attributes is simply that we can train you to be a barber but we can’t work with you if you haven’t got any of the above.

During my time as an educator, I have seen many students turn up on their first visit and not know what the qualification

actually entails. A brief overview on Level 2 and Level 3 is as follows; To achieve the qualification you need to earn enough credits to meet the qualification structure. Mandatory units are units that you must complete. There are also optional units, where you can select the right units that match your interests and the needs of your salon or barbershop. To achieve your qualification you must earn the minimum number of credits across both the mandatory and optional units.

Level 2 is foundation level and this, to me, is the most important. Foundation level is key because its structured and disciplined and all creative cutting stems from your foundation skills. Basic haircuts and beard trims have structure to them, which must be followed and is measurable; there is no room for inaccuracy. For example, Patterns in hair involve a lot of practice and planning of the design so therefore require discipline and a high skillset.

Level 3 will involve shaving services and teach you to create a range of facial hair shapes and also creatively cut

hair using a combination of barbering techniques. Both levels require a high quality of customer service. You have a maximum of 24 months to complete each qualifications.

As a student you only get out what you put in. I always say there is no such thing as a stupid question. I believe you must question everything you’re taught to fully understand the skillset you are trying to master.

The knowledge you pick up from college and your barber shop can work along side further education on Youtube barbering channels. You can never stop learning, try and take yourself to Salon International, Barber Connect, Pro Hair Barbering in Manchester Central and London Olympia where you will see an array of the best talent in the UK and worldwide. Get yourself on courses, Barberlove, Loreal, Wella, London School or Barbering, Dale Ted Watkins, Erik Lander Education, Savills Academy, Mobile Barbering Academy, Sid Sottung Academy, Wahl, Menspire, The Darryn Pitman, Robert and Dan Rix, Hob Mens, Fellowship of British Hairdressers Mens Workshop, to name but a few, as you can never have enough knowledge.

Not everyone will choose the route of getting a governing body qualification; I can totally understand that some employers have no confidence in the college system. My advice to the apprentice is to make sure that the barber shop has a comprehensive, quality training scheme in place as this is YOUR career, YOUR future. I don’t profess to be the best barber in the UK but I always strive to be the best barber that I can be.

I never stop researching and learning new skills.

I have been so lucky with my career.

I have five successful Salons and two academies in Essex delivering Level 2 and 3 hairdressing and Barbering NVQ Qualifications. My passion has always been to raise the standards of male hairdressing and barbering. This led me to form the Men’s Hairdressing Federation (MHFed). The MHFed has been a global success, with our collections published throughout the world. We perform at every hair show in the UK, working alongside the Fellowship of British hairdressers. We embrace classical barbering techniques in catwalk shows and photographic collections working with the very best in the industry.

We are currently putting online education on our website to assist apprentices and give them another resource to go hand in hand with their Logbooks. It has been a huge honour working with the best names in the industry putting the Logbooks together.

If I could share a secret to my success with you in this wonderful industry, its simply, education is key.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 63

TrainingNV.

An interview with Ken Hermes

EducatorNV.

Darren Jones

Earlier this month BarberNV’s Ken Hermes had the pleasure of catching up with Andis educator Darren Jones. We wanted to understand the transition from barber to educator and how this has impacted his career.

Ken: Thanks for talking to Barber NV Darren. So, tell me, how did you become an educator?

Darren: I got into teaching by chance, I knew my way around a pair of clippers and people around me knew this and constantly asked me to teach them. A lot of salons started asking for clipper training, so that is where it all started for me. This was long before mobile phones and laptops, so it was really great to have my name thrown around. Fast forward a few years and I decided to focus more and more on education, where I feel I flourish. You just can’t shut me up!

So when I had a chance to become an Andis 64 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

educator, I jumped at it! After lengthy talks with Andis, they gave me an opportunity to show my abilities at the N.E.C in my hometown of Birmingham. That’s kind of like your football team playing at home with no pressure, except there was loads of pressure. I know loads of guys and girls that perform on stage and they all said that nerves will get to me. I used this as a positive and did some great work which resulted me in being named as one of the UK Andis educators.

Ken: Sounds like an impressive start to your career as an educator. Who has been the most impressive student you have taught?

Darren: I was working for Regis International when a lad turned up for an interview. I say a lad, he was 22 and had a real swagger about him. He had the look that I was after, but could he cut?

Well, he could but not as good as he should have been. He come from a big brand salon in London and wanted to venture into male grooming, so after a little chat and a year full of training, I was more than happy with his development. He had turned into a great barber.

The only thing missing was the important key “experience”. Regis International was closing stores and sadly we parted company but remained great friends.

TrainingNV.

Jay moved on to open a string of themed barbershops called “The Dog House”. They looked great! So we got talking and Jay asked if I wanted to become a team player in his flag ship store, and help give his staff a little tweaking. So after a great deal of thought (5 seconds) I decided that I would do it… team up again like the good old days. I saw a great opportunity to move my barber school to a more urban styled shop, you need to move with the times right? So not only was I working for a guy I trained but my new school had a great look that fitted in 2015.

Ken: What days do you work as a barber and what days do you run the school?

Darren: The main days at the barbers are a Thursday Friday & Saturday to which I’m fully booked… well, most of the time. As for the school, I do Monday all day, Tuesday & Wednesday evenings and due to the way we all work these days I have now started to teach on Sundays, which is becoming more and more popular. A lot of my students are barbers anyway and we are doing 9 till 5 most days, which doesn’t leave much time to train. Being in the centre of the country is a huge advantage as we are not too far for anybody.

Ken: What courses do you teach and which are the most popular?

Darren: I do all kinds of training, to mention a few; I teach an introduction to barbering for anyone wishing to get into the industry.

Clipper over comb courses (free hand without a guard), modern cutting courses (using the t-24 andis texturizing clipper head) straight edge razor over comb and slice cutting, Andis clipper cutting workshop (choice of magnetic driven, pivot or rotary), Skin fade courses with a straight edge razor and skin fade cutting class with the foil shaver. I also tailor make some of the course to suit the students, so if you know certain aspects of part of the course we can add something else to it, so you’re not learning something you don’t need to improve on. The most popular classes have got to be the skin fades. It’s all about getting it right down to the skin, hence the name “skin fade”. It’s become so popular it almost feels a bit alien when someone asks for a number 4 back and side. I think the reason why people want to master this

is because a lot of barbers/hairdressers were giving the customer a no.1 or 0.5 and calling it a skin fade.

Ken: Fantastic. Would you or have you failed any of your students?

Darren: I’m a very easy to get on with kind of guy I’d like to think. I don’t fail anyone, there is no such thing as failure. If you fail then that tells me I’m not doing something right. All of my students are told at the very beginning that if they don’t understand anything , even down to my Birmingham accent, to tell me. I have found that if you get on with your teacher you will flourish in your subject, a bit like school, LOVE YOUR SUBJECT. The second I fail a student is the time I hang my clippers up and walk away.

Ken: It sounds like a brilliant place to learn a trade! Can you tell me a bit more about the association with Andis and how it came about? Why are they the best clippers?

Darren: I will try and keep this answer short.

There are loads of clippers on the market and there always has been, even Andis. It was social networking sites, YouTube etc., that got me looking at the Andis range simply because there were so many. I was looking for versatility and I found it. Magnetic clippers, pivot clippers, rotary clippers… I wanted to learn more to have an understanding on the whole range (that would take a long time).

I contacted Andis in various ways, and after them checking myself and work out they sent me a care package to check out and review for their new UK range, (all used in my school). I became friends with the Andis team in the USA and was given a chance to be a guest barber for them at Barber UK. I would say that Andis are without a doubt the best clippers out there.

Why? You show me a company that has such a versatile range. we all know that versatility plays a key role in the industry so it’s ticking boxes all day long. It’s not all about just their clippers, the amount of people that ask me about their clipper comb is staggering. Who else develops a disinfectant spray that’s also a coolant? Wow I could go on and on and on and on!

Ken: Do you find that clients travel to you BECAUSE you are an educator? Or are they unaware?

Darren: A lot of my customers have been with me for years, but again social media is a great way to show the customer if you’re any good.

“Do you do European hair?” Yes. “Asian hair?”

Yes. “Afro hair?” Yes, take a look at my work.

There are a few people that have contacted me and said they have seen a picture on Instagram and my work is what they are looking for. Being an educator is something of a bonus, like icing on the cake, not for me as such but for the customer. It lets them know I know what I’m doing. I’ve had a customer that was getting married and heard of me through someone that had seen me on stage working for Andis, and he travelled from Holland! That one expensive cut, but you can’t put a price on a good haircut can you? I display a few awards on my wall at work to show off a little just so if I do get a new customer they can see that they are in safe hands. It also gives me a chance to talk about something I am passionate about.

Ken: What has been the highlight of your career as an educator and how far have you travelled to teach?

Darren: As an educator my highlight may seem a bit odd for a few to understand.I’m involved in a local charity and we had the opportunity to teach people with mental and physical disabilities to cut hair! That was the most rewarding thing I have ever done and I made some great friends from it too.

I have taught all over the country, but as for the furthest, it’s coming up. We are off to Amsterdam to do a cutting course! They loved the look of the work we do and the laid back approach we have.

Ken: Best of luck in Amsterdam Darren.

Who has been the biggest influence on your career?

Darren: I would like to thank a couple of people that have had a major impact on my career actually: my tutor Julie Parks, who made me believe in myself back in 1988!

Aileen Nunez for believing in me and making me an Andis educator, and my very good friend Garry Spencer! This man is making barbering cool again with his workshops and his events “The Great British Barber Bash”.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 65

TrainingNV.

BARBERNV TRAINING ACADEMY OF THE MONTH

Hair for Men Academy Every month we feature an academy of the month. This has to be an academy that really stands out, and the award winning Hair For Men Academy was a logical choice! We caught up with Will and Colin from Hair For Men to find out a bit more about what they offer and what makes them award winners!

An interview with Ken Hermes Hair for Men is based in Surrey, UK. Will has been an educator since 2007. “When I set up my own barber shops, I found that the people coming from colleges didn’t have enough experience, or know the right techniques. They just weren’t industry ready. I was training in house for a while, where lots of local barbers and salons would send me there people. It was really organic. I started my own academy in 2009.” Will explains. “It’s gone from strength to strength. We just won Academy of the year at the Barber Awards at Barber Connect. We were in the shortlist with London School of Barbering and Sid Sottung. It felt amazing to be amongst them. Our trick is to keep our classes really small. We have a lady called Debbie who has been in the industry for over 30 years!”.

Hair for Men work closely with Bluebeards Revenge. I asked Will how this came about.

“We give all of our students a free Bluebeards Revenge Kit. I approached them actually. I really loved their branding and their actual products.

I have used all sorts of leading shaving brands but when I came across Bluebeards Revenge I had to approach them. They made us an offer and now they supply shave kits for all of our students. The products are far superior to any other product in the price range”. Will says.

“We were also working with Fudge, however I am developing our own product range which will be ready for a launch at Christmas!”.

Hair for Men run a variety of courses, including; 9 Week NVQ Level 2, 12 Week NVQ Level 3, 5 Day Fast Track Barber, 10 Day Elite Barber, 5 Day Private Tuition, 1 Day Bluebeards Wet Shave Course and a 1 Day Colour Course.

“We work with The Department of Working Pensions and Career Path, which is for the MOD. We have people on our course at the moment who are from the MOD. The MOD pay for them to come on courses to get back into society. We get a lot of people from DWP who have been on jobseekers for longer than 6 months and may not have many prospects,

so we train them to get a job in the barbering industry. This is where we are different, we like to put back into the society. All of our short diploma courses are accredited too. A lot of the students that leave our diploma courses get a job straight away. We run a chain of 9 barbershops across the country and every barber has been through one of our courses.”

Will says. “We teach everything, how to sweep up, how to consult etc… it is so much more than just cutting hair. Because we run our own shops, we know what is current and we know what to teach our students. We ensure that all of our students get full days with clients too. Many of our students become franchisee’s too. We had a lorry driver who came to train and now he is looking to open his second shop with us.”

Hair for Men are expanding at a rapid rate, and coincide shop opening with training. “The industry is lacking a big brand name of shops.

We are a country based on branding and we feel that we can fill the gap there. Each shop that we run has the opportunity to send one apprentice to us a year to train for free. They get the NVQ privately, which ensures that we are putting back into all of our shops. I think we have to give back, if you take and take, then where does it end? We are all about creativity and putting back in. We work with the local communities, we have around 250 regulars that come in for a free haircut with the trainees.” Will continues. “Even the local colleges recommend us. Perhaps someone doesn’t speak English as a first language OR they need more attention than a class of 30, they would get referred to us as we run smaller classes. We also offer our own 0% loans, which the students can pay off as they go. Most academies don’t offer a pay as you go scheme, which could put off potential students.”

Will reminisces to his days in Malta where he was slung in the deep end and made to shave a client. “I was 16 and cocky. I went for a job and they guy asked me if I could shave, I said

“We teach everything, how to sweep up, how to consult etc… it is so much more than just cutting hair. Because we run our own shops, we know what is current and we know what to teach our students”

66 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

of course I can! He told me to go and shave a client… I had to learn quick. We have adopted that philosophy. We don’t shave on balloons first, we go straight onto clients which has proven a huge success.”

It became clear that Hair for Men offer training well above the national curriculum.

Will ensures that all of his students can handle a cut throat, even if they are on an NVQ Level 2. He wants to be safe in the knowledge that his students never have to say “NO” to a client when they are working in a shop.

TrainingNV.

How the gap from ‘new academy’ to ‘academy of the year’ was filled and what it took to rise to the top. “I think it’s simply hard work. If you care about your students, they will reward you.

I taught someone who was head of the BBC hair and makeup department, and since then I’ve taught 30 of the BBC hair stylists how to cut hair. By doing that, they have told other people etc… A lot of our success is through word of mouth. Lot’s of our students now work in the film industry. Social media helps us too, of course!”.

I asked who Will’s biggest success is so far. “It would be a person that has hated their job for years, comes along and changes their life and becomes a franchisee. For example, we have had a doctor, a lorry driver and a dancer all go through this transition. They love what they are doing now. People come from all walks of life and come into this industry. These guys are actually better at communicating than some of the guys that have always been in the industry.”

Will explained.

Hair for Men offers franchises, on top of the

academy. “We are always expanding. We have opened 5 shops this year and we are looking at 10 next year. We have a personal finance team in place to offer a tailored finance. We have an accountant on the team too, which means they get a better rate than going to the high street banks. We put all of our franchisees on the course to learn our values and vision. This helps us to read them as a franchisee too. It’s a great platform as they have all come through the same course. We open the shop for them, we help build a team, we have integrated till systems, solicitors… We also have Mark Wright (who won the apprentice) on our team. He deals with all of the digital marketing. We also have a new person coming on board, who will be announced soon!” Will says with mystery. “We ensure that the shop is ready for the franchisee.

They pay one lease fee which streamlines their costs.”

The team are looking at opening a new academy in East London and will be announcing the location soon! Why not visit the guys in Surrey and look at the fastest growing, award winning academy, and kick start your career as a Barbershop owner?

AcademyNV.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 67

TrainingNV.

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

5th Oct

2 Days

Wet Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

5th Oct

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

5th Oct

6 Days

Fast Track Barber & Shaving

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£995.00

0800 644 6601

6th Oct

1 Day

Wet Shaving

Joseph Lanzante Training

Lancashire

£195.00

01254 427 575

7th Oct

2 Days

Wet Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

10th Oct

1 Day

Shaving Course

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£225.00

0800 644 6601

11th Oct

3 Days

Shaving Course

SB Academy

Sunderland

£500.00

07955 645 438

12th Oct

2 Days

Clipper Confidence Course

Savills Academy

Sheffield

£350.00

0114 276 1011

12th Oct

1 Week

Clipper Fading Course

London School of Barbering

London

£900.00

0207 404 0998

12th Oct

2 Weeks

Clipper Fading Course

London School of Barbering

London

£1,500.00

0207 404 0998

12th Oct

6 Days

Fast Track Barber & Shaving

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£995.00

0800 644 6601

12th Oct

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

13th Oct

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 784 0440

17th Oct

1 Day

Shaving

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£225.00

0800 644 6601

18th Oct

2 Days

Traditional Wet Shaving

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0440

18th Oct

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Kent

£200.00

07803 553 684

18th Oct

1 Day

Modern Barbering

Hands on Tarining

Southport

£120.00

07801 933 780

18th Oct

2 Days

Barbering & Mens Hairdressing Mobile Barbering Academy

Bedford

£500.00

07999 642244

19th Oct

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Kent

£200.00

07803 553 684

19th Oct

2 Days

Barber Refining Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

19th Oct

9 Weeks

NVQ Level 2 Barbering

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£2,995.00

0800 644 6601

19th Oct

1 Day

Skin Foil Fade Class

Birmingham School of Barbering

Midlands

£180.00

0796 185 0091

19th Oct

1 Week

Experienced Barber NVQ

London School of Barbering

London

£700.00

0207 404 0998

20th Oct

5 Days

Advanced Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,499.00

0115 784 0440

20th Oct

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Stockport

£200.00

07803 553 684

25th Oct

2 Days

Traditional Wet Shaving

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0440

25th Oct

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Belfast

£200.00

07803 553 684

25th Oct

1 Day

Hot Towel Shaving

Mobile Barbering Academy

Northampton

£360.00

07999 642244

25th Oct

2 Days

Hot Towel Shaving

Mobile Barbering Academy

Northampton

£500.00

07999 642244

25th Oct

1 Day

Clipper Master Class

Birmingham School of Barbering

Midlands

£180.00

0796 185 0091

25th Ocy

1 Day

Contemporary Barbering

Outlaw Barber Barber Collective

Ayrshire

£60.00

07812 345 678

26th Oct

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Belfast

£200.00

07803 553 684

26th Oct

2 Days

Wet Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

26th Oct

1 Day

Shave Day

British Barbers Association

Gatehead

£150.00

020 3701 1774

26th Oct

2 day

Wet Shave Training Course

The Shave Doctor

Staffordshire

£600.00

01785 815 865

27th Oct

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 784 0440

28th Oct

2 Days

Wet Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

1st Nov

2 Days

Traditional Wet Shaving

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0440

1st Nov

2 Days

Adv Fade Master Workshop

Mobile Barbering Academy

Milton Keynes

£360.00

07999 642244

2nd Nov

1 Day

Ace of Fades - Michael Damiano WAHL Academy

Kent

£200.00

01227 744323

2nd Nov

1 Week

Clipper Fading Course

London School of Barbering

London

£900.00

0207 404 0998

2nd Nov

2 Weeks

Clipper Fading Course

London School of Barbering

London

£1,500.00

0207 404 0998

2nd Nov

6 Days

Fast Track Barber & Shaving

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£995.00

0800 644 6601

68 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

TrainingNV.

SB BARBERS ACADEMY Learning the art of barbering

SB was created out of a huge passion for the barbering industry and a vision to train barbers to a high skill level. Here at our academy in Sunderland we concentrate on cutting using old school traditional techniques and using them to create current trends. Our motto is to turn out quality not quantity.

We like to keep things fresh and exciting so have brought on board some amazingly talented guest barbers from up and down the country to run workshops as part of your course.

Email: vikki@sb-academy.co.uk Phone: 0191 567 3644

www.sb-academy.co.uk Inspiring UK & Ireland Barbering Success

Subscribe Today INSPIRING BRITISH BARBERING SUCCESS

Issue 1. August/September 2015.

INSPIRING UK & IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS

Issue 2. October/November 2015.

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aLAN BEAK Rob and Dan Rix Joth Davies

KEN J R HERMES | THAT LITTLE BARBER SHOP

BLOGGER/REVIEWER BARBERNV FEATURES WRITER

Visit the largest growing independent barbering review website NOW!

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Email. ken@thatlittlebarbershop.com | Tel. +44 7769 341 909

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Apothecary87 Sam Martin

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Pat Barry Tom Chapman Darren Jones

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TrainingNV.

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

2nd Nov

2 day

Wet Shave Training Course

The Shave Doctor

Staffordshire

£600.00

01785 815 865

2nd Nov

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

3rd Nov

1 Day

Introduction to Barbering

Mike Taylor Education

Dorset

£150.00

07969 348 675

3rd Nov

1 Day

Wet Shaving

Joseph Lanzante Training

Lancashire

£195.00

01254 427 575

7th Nov

1 Day

Shaving Course

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£225.00

0800 644 6601

8th Nov

1 Day

Clipper Master Class

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£175.00

01157 840 440

8th Nov

1 Day

Modern Barbering

Hands on Tarining

Paisley

£120.00

07801 933 780

9th Nov

2 Days

Solid Foundation - Carl Blake WAHL Academy

Kent

£300.00

01227 744 323

9th Nov

1 Week

Experienced Barber NVQ

London School of Barbering

London

£700.00

0207 404 0998

9th Nov

2 Days

Barber Refining Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

10th Nov

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 784 0440

14th Oct

2 day

Wet Shave Training Course

The Shave Doctor

Staffordshire

£600.00

01785 815 865

15th Nov

2 Days

Traditional Wet Shaving

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0440

15th Nov

1/2 Day

Workshop - Frank Glorified

SB Academy

Sunderland

£60.00

07955 645 438

15th Nov

1 Day

Workshop with - Glorified

SB Academy

Sunderland

£140.00

07955 645 438

15th Nov

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Dublin

£200.00

07803 553 684

15th Nov

2 Days

Skin Foil Fade Class

Birmingham School of Barbering

Midlands

£350.00

0796 185 0091

16th Nov

2 Days

Wet Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

16th Nov

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

16th Nov

6 Days

Fast Track Barber & Shaving

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£995.00

0800 644 6601

16th Nov

1 Day

Patterns and Shape Up’s

British Barbers Association

Leyton, London £150.00

020 3701 1774

17th Nov

1 Day

Clipper Master Class

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£175.00

0115 784 0440

18th Nov

2 Days

Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

21st Nov

1 Day

Shaving

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£225.00

0800 644 6601

22nd Nov

2 Days

Traditional Wet Shaving

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0440

22nd Nov

3 Days

Master Barber

Savills

Sheffield

£475.00

0114 276 1011

22nd Nov

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Nottingham

£200.00

07803 553 684

22nd Nov

1 Day

Artistic Clipper Course

Birmingham School of Barbering

Midlands

£180.00

0796 185 0091

23rd Nov

2 Days

Funky Men - Michael Damiano WAHL Academy

Kent

£300.00

01227 744323

23rd Nov

1 Day

Foundations Course

MENSPIRE

Glasgow

£200.00

07803 553 684

23rd Nov

1 Day

Afro Skin Fade Class

Birmingham School of Barbering

Midlands

£180.00

0796 185 0091

23rd Nov

1 Day

Shave Day

British Barbers Association

Leyton, London £150.00

020 3701 1774

23rd Nov

1 Week

Combo Clipper & Shaving

London School of Barbering

London

£900.00

0207 404 0998

24th Nov

5 Days

Advanced Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,499.00

0115 784 0440

24th Nov

1 Day

Introduction to Barbering

British Barbers Association

Barnstaple

£150.00

020 3701 1774

29th Nov

2 Days

Traditional Wet Shaving

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0440

29th Nov

1 Day

Skin Foil Fade Class

Birmingham School of Barbering

Midlands

£180.00

0796 185 0091

30th Nov

1 Day

Barbering for Beginners

Birmingham School of Barbering

Midlands

£150.00

0796 185 0091

30th Nov

1 Day

Advanced Barbering

British Barbers Association

Manchester

£150.00

020 3701 1774

30th Nov

2 Days

Barber Refining Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

30th Nov

2 day

Wet Shave Training Course

The Shave Doctor

Staffordshire

£600.00

01785 815 865

*Dates and prices are correct at time of going to print and are subject to change.

70 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

a new journey begins

Th e al l n e w pow e rf u l m a I NS T RI M M E R F RO M WA H L A brand new T-Blade Trimmer from Wahl. Corded and powerful, the Hero cuts hair with speed and ease. The proven blade lets you create custom styles with a compact size that lets you handle with comfort. Set includes Pro-Set Tool to help you adjust precisely to zero-overlap. Product weight: 266 grams | Cable length: 2.4 meters | Includes: 3 comb attachments, oil and cleaning brush, blade adjustment tool.

T- C U T Featuring a high-grade steel T-blade, it is ideal for close trimming, precise neck and beard outlining, edging around the ears and creative styles. Complete with an ultimate performance high speed motor for quick and clean cutting ideal for all hair types.

www.wahl.co.uk |

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