BarberNV Issue 15

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BarberNV Issue 15

BARBER

NV

SAM WALL

Kim Powell Marie Rainsford w in t e r 2 0 1 8


CONTENTS

I S S U E 15 News

04

50

Ireland

Fashion Week

06

52

Cut & Sew

Fellowship

10

53

The Master Barber Shop

Stag Barbers Co

12

54

Kim Powell

56

Marie Rainsford

58

Lenny White

62

Porters Step-By-Step

64

Alan Findlay

Russell Bristow

BarberSociety Live

14 16

Badlands Barber Company

20

BBA – In Profile

24

Hair & Beard Trends

26

Products

28

66

Blade Hairclub

Cover Shoot

40

68

Instagram Showcase

Sam Wall

42

78

Training Dates

Editor’s Comment Welcome to a new look BarberNV. We always want to offer our readers something completely unique and with more derivative magazines making an appearance on the scene, we hope you’ll like our new direction. The front cover shoot was put together by our good friend Sam Wall, bravely tackling a 90s curtains look but giving it a fresh spin.

be bringing you global content you literally can’t get anywhere else. While we’ve been going very international lately, with trips to

And have no fear, although our design is changing, we’re still packed

Germany, the USA, Portugal, and Australia in 2017, we felt it was

full of the same original, ground-breaking content that you won’t find

right to start the year closer to home. Kim Powell and Marie Rainsford

anywhere else – well, at least not until after we’ve published it first!

are two young Irish women with bright futures, both disregarding any

That means exclusive interviews with both established stars of the

prehistoric opinions on female barbers to show exactly what they are

barbering world and up-and-coming talent, plus interesting stories

capable of.

and fresh ideas for your shop.

It’s the dawn of a new era at BarberNV so if there’s anything you

2018 is already set to be our best year yet and as media partner for both BarberSociety Live and the International Barber Awards, we’ll

Enjoy! 2 | BarberNV Magazine

want to see more of, please let me know through any of our social media channels.

Sr


NV

SHOWCASE

PAUSA MAN Hair: Carlos Valiente @ Salones Carlos Valiente Styling: Visori Fashionart Make-up: Jessi Esparza Photographer: Esteban Roca

Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Executive Connie Neil | Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Editorial Support Matthew McLaughlin Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Alan Findlay | Thanks Essence PR, Vivid PR, LWPR, Red Hot Products, Red Mane Media, B TheAgency, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Barber Council, British Barbers’ Association, British Master Barbers, Sam Wall, James Williams, BarberSociety Live, Stag Barber Co, The B.O.M.B Squad, Alan Findlay, Best of British, Denman, The Bluebeards Revenge, Wahl, Andis, Reuzel, Barber Equipment Centre, Fudge Professional, Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Cut & Sew, The Master Barbershop, Kim Powell, Lenny White, Joseph Lanzante, Porters, Blade Hairclub, Marie Rainsford, Braw BMC, Badlands. Cover Image: Photography: Harkness Photography www.harknessphotography.com Instagram: @harknessphotography Hair: Mr Sam Wall www.mrsamwall.co.uk Instagram: @mrsamwall Clothing Stylist: Style By Co www.stylebyco.com Instagram: @stylebyco Location: Hidden Heights Creative Studio www.hiddenheightsstudio.com Instagram: @hiddenheightsstudio| Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Š Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS STUDENT BARBER OF THE YEAR The British Barbers Association is launching the Student Barber of the Year 2018, a national barber competition supported by Mr Barber and VTCT. The BBA will seek out the high-flyers and emerging talent of the next generation of British barbers. Those looking to showcase their talents will be able to compete in three categories, basic haircut and finish (level two), basic facial hair design (level two) and creative cut and finish (level three). Entrants should submit two photos

(front and side view) of an unassisted cut by 13 March 2018. Winners will be chosen by a special panel of British Barber Association judges. First place winners will receive their awards and a £500 cash on stage at the Birmingham NEC during Barber UK on 21 May 2018. Second and third place runner-ups in each category will also receive a certificate of merit, a trophy and a goody bag stuffed with industry products. Lynda Whitehorn, VTCT apprenticeship manager said: “If you are a barber with impeccable technical skill and precision when working then this competition is for you. To win a competition like this can launch a career. Good Luck!” Training providers or employers must apply on behalf of their learners and be BBA members while their learners must be undertaking a formally accredited barbering qualification at level two or level three. Cost of entry is free. To request an application form, contact the BBA at com petitions@britishbarbers.com For more information go to britishbarbers.com

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS BarberNV is helping bring together the best of British barbering and hairdressing in association with our sister magazine SalonNV. A full day of education, Best of British Barbering and Hairdressing is taking place at the stunning Caves in Edinburgh on March 4th, where the like of SHABA Barber of the Year Grant Carr, BNV cover stars Sam Wall and Jay Kizito Byrne, the Cartmel Brothers, and Jamie Stuart will show their skills before a headline slot from The B.O.M.B. Squad. With a full line-up of top hairdressers also taking to the stage, there will be something to learn for everyone, regardless of your discipline, and with both barbering and hairdressing beginning to become more like one another it’s a rare opportunity to experience the best of both in one setting. Hosted by Davie Walker, Best of British Hairdressing and Barbering is set to sell out but for now you can grab tickets from eventbrite.co.uk. Priced at just £25 for a regular ticket and £50 for a VIP, it’s fantastic value to see such top talent up close and personally. We’ll see you there!

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START TALKING ABOUT MENTAL HEALTH Hard Grind teamed up with See Me Scotland to help promote the mental health charity’s Pass the Badge campaign. The aim is to get people to ‘start talking’ about mental health instead of hiding it away. It’s a topic that much of the barbering community is familiar with thanks to the work of Tom Chapman and the Lions Barber Alliance and the guys at Hard Grind have got on board with it to spread the message throughout Scotland. On Wednesday 13th December, members of the barbering community took to Hard Grind’s Dundee store to speak live on Facebook about their own issues and experiences dealing with mental health. Darren Birch representing the Lions Barber Collective, Alisha Storrie of Legacy Gents Stylists in Glasgow joined the Hard Grind guys to open up and with thousands of people watching live across social media, the event was a great success. If you want to help or spread the word, visit passthebadge.co.uk or seemescotland.org for more information.

BARBER UK IS BACK Held in partnership with the British Barbers’ Association, the Barber UK show invites barber and hair professionals from across the country to join the leading names in the industry at the NEC Birmingham on the 20th and 21st of May. Barber UK, along with partner shows Hair UK, Beauty UK, and Holistic Health, provides a number of free educational opportunities for visitors to find inspiration, advice and business guidance. The Hair/Barber Stage will be hosting seminars on both days of the show, where exhibitors will be covering a wide range of topics such as barbering techniques, haircutting tips, colouring demonstrations and salon advice, giving visitors the chance to further their industry knowledge. There will also be a charity barber stage, organised by the Great British Barbering Academy, where a host of leading barbering names will be uniting to raise funds for CHECT, the Children’s Eye Cancer Trust.

Demonstrations will take place on the stage throughout the show, along with prize draws and other opportunities for visitors to get involved. Additionally, there will be the chance to compete in Britain’s Best Shave, and the British Barbers’ Association’s Britain’s Best Barber and Student Barber of the Year competitions. You can find out more about these competitions later on in the magazine, including how to enter. Barber UK offers visitors the chance to network with other professionals, as well as meet with industry leading training providers and associations, providing the ideal opportunity for anyone looking to diversify their skills. Barber professionals can now register for free trade tickets by visiting BarberUKShow.com or contacting the Ticket Hotline on 01332 227698. Visit www.BarberUKShow.com for more information and to find out how to enter the competitions.


I N D U S T R Y NEWS

REUZEL SCUMBASSADORS Following their video competition Schorem have announced their first two Reuzel Scumbassadors for the UK and Ireland. After final judgement was passed by Schorem favourites Rob and Leen we can reveal the chosen two are Christian Wiles and Wez Jones.

THE ULTIMATE BARBER EXPERIENCE Aberdeen men’s grooming salon, The Men’s Emporium have been crowned Best Barbers North and Best Barber Scotland at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards 2017. No strangers to SHABA the Aberdeen men’s hairdressers received the North of Scotland Best Barbers back in 2016 and have once again proven the quality of their brand.

The Men’s Emporium have been open in Aberdeen for twelve years and have just opened up their second shop in the granite city. Their new salon is now open in Banks of Dee gym and sports club. Men’s Emporium owner Denise Fyvie told BarberNV: “We are the first barber to have this opportunity to establish ourselves in a sports club!” With these awards under their belt The Men’s Emporium can truly tout their tag-line “the ultimate barber experience.”

Christian Wiles (@christianwilesmen) has been the recipient of a whole host of awards, including Men’s Stylist of the Year 2017, Best Male Grooming Salon 2016, and Male Grooming Business of the Year 2016. Not only this but the Northampton based Christian has a massive belief in education and making sure all stylists he teacher are trained to the highest degree. Wez Jones (@the.heartbreak.barber) owner of The Heartbreak Club barbershop is one of a super talented new breed of barbers having already demonstrated his incredible work at the likes of Barber Connect and the Barber Bash. In February Wez will be going to the Schorem school, the Old School Barber Academy, to get a masterclass from Holland’s finest. The pair will be running Reuzel cutting and product training courses throughout the UK and Ireland this year. For more information check the Reuzel Facebook page or call Rianne on 01392 365177.

RUGER X AMERICAN CREW

ANDIS SIGN UP MISTER ROBINSON

Manchester’s RUGER. (@ruger_barber) have become the latest UK barbershop ambassadors to join American Crew’s illustrious Elite Team. The partnership was announced of January 11th on both the American Crew UK and the RUGER. barbershop’s social media pages.

Proprietor of our Barbershop of the Month from BNV7, Mister Robinson’s, Matt Robinson has been added to the exclusive team of Andis Brand Ambassadors.

The Elite Team comprises of some of the best barbers, educators and establishments in the UK. Picked by American Crew to represent the landmark men’s grooming brand. RUGER. will join an long list of incredible barbershops and individuals that represent American Crew in the UK including, Sam Wall, Matt Robinson and Davie Walker. On his Instagram co-owner and founder of RUGER. Alan Beak (@alan_beak) said: “It is now with great pleasure to announce that RUGER. is a part of the American Crew Elite... such an honour to be on board with the biggest male grooming product brand in the world! We at RUGER. are beyond happy and excited to see what the future brings!”

Mister Robinson’s is more than a barbershop and it’s his work at the heart of the community in Rugby that helped bring him to Andis’s attention, on top of his excellent barbering abilities. He said that his career “isn’t just a job, it’s an art form, a culture, and a lifestyle.” Jessica Zeinstra, Andis Education Manager said: “We saw Matt’s talent and passion for Andis over the years as his loyalty and dedication became apparent. We love to support creative talent and influencers and we are proud to have Matt as the newest edition to the Andis team. His natural ability to engage barbers and perform beyond expectation is what motivated Andis to secure his position as a Brand Ambassador.”

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Fashion

WEEK

It takes time, but your average barbershop haircut has probably filtered through from the world of high fashion. At London Men’s Fashion Week there were plenty of cuts that could make it to be shop staples, and plenty that probably won’t… We took a look at a few of the shows to see what hair offerings were on show.

CH R IS TOP HE R RAE B U RN Fu d ge Pr o f e s s i o nal British design Christopher Raeburn takes the strength of his military silhouettes, combining this with the beauty and fragility of our oceans. AW18 sees a tidal shift as camouflage gives way for luxurious wool pieces re-appropriated from Russian naval blankets. Tina Outen for Fudge Professional brings this abstract to completion. Giving models the aesthetic of a diver fresh out of the blue, with ponytails that have seen better days, baby hair, and fly-away strands draped over the models’ face.

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LIA M HOD GE S EVE R Y BODY ’ S FRE E Fu d g e Pr o f e s s i o nal London based designer Liam Hodges’ collection’s been described as a luxury brand for the mad and bad alike, and AW18 is no different. Vivid colours, oversized fits and bold prints encapsulate Hodges’ creative vision. Think post-punk madness fused with Mr Blobby. Tina Outen from Fudge Professional perfectly captures Hodges’ references to childhood innocence, with models sporting David Byrne inspired style thrown into a gunge tank - bringing back a nostalgic reminder of 90s kids programs like SMTV and Nickelodeon.

CHA RLE S J EFFREY Revl o n Touted as one of London fashion’s brightest, Charles Jeffrey takes a reflective look back at his native Scotland with this latest collection. Melding Wallace tartan with the LOVERBOY’s own, Jeffrey seamlessly combines the traditional with the contemporary. Revlon’s John Vial went for 70s inspired Sigue Sigue Sputnik swirling hair wrapped in hairnets. Bright neon colours deliberately complimenting the colours and abstract shape of the collection.

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Aleksandr Kabanov beardpumper

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KiwiCutz Hair: Ciaran O'Sullivan Photography: Shaun Barry Clothing: Simply Suits

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FOLLOW the

Fellowship From workshops, to masterclasses and business evenings – the Fellowship offer a lot of quality education to barbers and those wanting to improve and explore their men’s hairdressing skills and know-how. We’re taking a look back at just a few of 2017’s highlights…

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NEW TEAMS With a new year comes a new roster of Fellowship team members. The F.A.M.E. Team, Colour Project Team, Project X Team, and ClubStar Art Team bring us all the latest up-andcoming names in the hairdressing year in year out and here’s the names you’ll be hearing more of throughout 2018:

F.A.M.E. Team Ellie Bond, Spargo Hairdressing Katie Prescott, Toni&Guy Paddy McDougall, Rainbow Room International Peter Mellon, Medusa Hairdressing

Colour Project Team Yolanda Douglas, Errol Douglas London Krysia Eddery, Perfectly Posh Hair Gemma Evans, Nashwhite Caitlin Haynes, Idlewild Hair Jonathan Hill, KJM Salons Natalie Newton, Sarai Hair & Beauty

Colour Night The Fellowship’s annual Colour Night in July welcomed a host of creative colour gurus to the Toni&Guy Academy in London, where they took the stage to colour and present their best colour creation. Flying the flag for men’s hair and stealing the show was Chloe Ascott from Hare & Bone, who produced an incredible dark-to-light colour transformation on a male model. ClubStar Presents Johnny Shanahan In September, Johnny Shanahan from Barber Barber UK headed up a ClubStar Presents event at Manchester’s Wella Academy. Joined by Joey Power, Arran Rynan, Richie Hughes, and ‘Franko’ from the Barber Barber UK team, Johnny brought an evening full of attitude and energy – and we’d expect nothing less. As well as presenting three incredible models, Johnny and his team spoke to the audience about running a men’s hair business. From customer service, to the Barber Barber UK brand ethos, to knowing your customer – they explained their vision and why they operate the way they do. Salon International This year’s Fellowship stage at Salon International was arguably their best yet, and plenty of big barbering names took to the stage to share and inspire throughout the weekend; Company of Master Barbers, Alison Scattergood, and the B.O.M.B Squad to name a few. The Feds were on hand to deliver their usual dose of excellence, with plenty of classic curls and the perfect, quintessential quiff.

Natasha Quigley, The Hair Bank Joely Richmond, Harvey Luke Hair Katie Scarfe, CODE Hair Consultants Sophie Stanness, Nashwhite Samantha Tyers, Harvey Luke Hair Sara Williams, Melissa Salons

Project X Team Natalie Allen, Harvey Luke Hair Ben Brazzo, Malcolm Tina Barker Georgina Cadwallader, KJM Salons Eloise Dudley, Francesco Group Kelsey Franklin, Sarai Hair & Beauty Katie Hassall, Hair Haus Marlene Lamont, Urban Hair & Beauty Kezia McDermott, Idlewild Hairdressing Poonam Mehmi, Rush Hair & Beauty Lois Negus, Maxwells Professional Hair & Beauty Donna O’Donogue, Eclipse Hair Sarah Roseli, Bloggs Salons

ClubStar Art Team Luke Hawkins, The Marvellous Hair Company Florence Neilson, Rhona McCallum Hair

If you’re not already a Fellowship member, head to www. fellowshiphair.com for more information on how to join! It could be you on the list of rising stars and soaking up all the Fellowship has to offer…

Roman Sys, Sassoon

Instagram - @fellowshiphair Facebook - facebook.com/fellowshiphair

Joe Hillas, Craig Chapman Salon

Brooke Evans, Tim Scott-Wright at The Hair Surgery Katie Louise Lyman, Daniel Granger Hairdressing Jack Dettmer, P Kai Hair Joanna Pacey, KH Hair

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G E T T I N G C H I L LY F O R C H A R I T Y with Stag Barber Co. It wasn’t just the length of customers’ hair that was showing signs of shrinkage in Stag Barber Co. after Christmas, as their customers braved arctic conditions to raise money for charity wearing nothing but their undies! Suicide is the single biggest killer of men aged under 45 in the UK, so Murray McRae and his staff continued their now annual tradition of allowing their clients to pay whatever they wish for a haircut… as long as they come into the shop baring all! All the money raised went straight to the Scottish Association for Mental Health, a charity chosen by Murray who noticed that many of his customers struggled to open up about their problems. “As a barber shop we have a predominantly male clientele,” Murray explained. “We have a wide variety of guys coming through here every day, coming from all different backgrounds, ages, and walks of life. “But one thing they all have in common is they all have to deal with this toxic masculine culture. It’s 2017 and we still have this idea that any sign of struggle is a sign of weakness,

which is totally rubbish.” The barbershop is one place where men have the opportunity to open up to another person in a one-on-one environment with clients regularly speaking about their issues to Murray and his team. So where better place to raise money for mental health? With three DJs performing throughout the day and food and drink supplied by Civerinos and Brewgooder beer, there was a party atmosphere for the bold participants and they managed to raise an ice cool £1,000 for The Scottish Association for Mental Health. The team at Stag also interviewed men in the barber chair about their mental health experiences and their own difficult periods in life which you will be able to view across both Stag Barber Co. and BarberNV social media pages.

/stagbarberco @stagbarberco

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Braw BMC

Now in its second year, the Braw Beard and Moustache Competition is making a name for itself as Scotland’s premier facial hair fixture. Set up by John Jackson, founder of Braw Beard Oils, last year’s event was the first in the country and was a roaring success. Russell claimed third place with yet another marvellous moustache effort, and as a seasoned competitor he was full of praise for how the night went. He says: “I thought it was super. I’ve been to a lot of debut competitions and I think it was the best I’ve been to for a first try; the venue, the people… you couldn’t ask for anything more. And I came away with a trophy!” It’s back to Drygate Brewery in Glasgow for the second attempt and it’s set to be a sell out once more. The mixture of beers, banter, and bloody brilliant beards left the local crowd crying out for a second round and with competitors flying in from as far as Germany for the inaugural event it will be hard to top – but they’re going to try their best.

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THE WORLD OF

COM PETITI V E FAC I A L H A I R Russell Bristow is defending an enviable record of fifteen successive top three places in moustache competitions. It’s a long way from tagging along with his mate to the biannual British Beard and Moustache Competition back in 2014 where they entered their baby moustaches to little effect. A tree surgeon by trade, Russell was instantly a fan of the world of competitive beards and moustaches, saying “we were blown away by how amazing the facial hair was and how nice everyone was and just got hooked” and began attending the small local events around the country. Despite being a competition, it’s rare for things to get hairy. “I’ve made so many friends from going to these events. I haven’t ever met anyone I didn’t like, which is kind of strange for me,” laughs Russell. “Everyone is likeminded and it’s all for charity so we all have a great day, a big drink, and a party!” Russell is one of the hardcore when it comes to BMCs, trailing around the UK on a regular basis to wield his moustache wherever they’ll let him. Although you see many of the same faces on the circuit,

few are as dedicated as Russell. Even his moustache care routine is fantastically extravagant. He says: “My routine is slightly over the top compared to what most people could do – I like to go that extra mile. “Normally if I’m styling it in the day I will use wax to style it into a handlebar. Then in the evening I will wash the wax out with a special beard wash and put a conditioner on it overnight. In the morning when I wake up with then give it another wash to wash the conditioner out – sometimes I’m washing twice a day!” Russell was tight-lipped about certain secret steps he takes to keep his moustache in peak condition – can’t give your competitors any tips - but says that at events the competing gentleman are generous with sharing advice and knowledge with one another. At the end of the day it’s more of a com munity than a competition, and one that welcomes everybody. But that won’t stop Russell from going for gold at the Braw BMC in Glasgow next month, while in August he has his sights set on improving his second place finish from 2016 at the British BMC – quite a journey from his first attempt in 2014.


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BIGGER. BETTER. BarberSociety Live. If we had one complaint about BarberSociety Live last year it would be that it didn’t last long enough. One day was barely enough to soak up the wealth of knowledge and education on offer as barbers from across Europe, and beyond, gathered in Amsterdam to swap stories, chew the fat, and embrace the barbering brotherhood. Fortunately, the organisers have listened to our concerns and BarberSociety Live is now a two-day event! Rejoice! That means twice the laughs, twice the learning, and twice the barber love. Taking place in one of the most stunning exhibition

centres in the country, a former gasworks factory which has a beautiful industrial charm, it’s bound to inspire and inform, and with the second day welcoming those from outside the industry, a chance to connect with more people than before. Last year’s line-up saw headline slots from the likes of the B.O.M.B. Squad and Sid Sottung, with 2018 promising to be even better. We’ll be there to take it all in and hope as many BarberNV readers as possible make the trip – with flights to Amsterdam often cheaper than a taxi home for a night out, and many reasonably priced hotels on offer, why not?

Back in April.

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BarberSociety Live. Keune

Marc van de Hare Marc van de Hare, founder of BarberSociety and owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam barbers:

Eelco Keune, marketing director of Keune:

“We are really looking forward to the 2018 edition in which everyone will enjoy a unique day and barbers from all over the world will be united. I am so grateful that this year even more visitors can enjoy the world of barbering/men’s hair styling thanks to the addition of a second day. Only with the enormous support of our sponsors can we realise this.

organiser) organised an event especially for barbers

“I think it is fantastic that Marc and Miranda (coand men’s hairdressers. The industry really lacked such a vibrant meeting of like-minded professionals that feel so passionately about their craftsmanship. That’s why we supported them from the very first edition of BarberSociety Live (without our name being mentioned, a unique situation).

“We would like to thank American Crew and Wahl, our loyal sponsors from the very first edition in 2016. Without their support, there would not be a BarberSociety Live event. But what nobody knows is the fact that also Keune has been one of our anonymous sponsors from the beginning! This year we can announce them as our XXL sponsor for the first time out in the open now that they are launching their men’s grooming line, 1922 by J.M. Keune at BarberSociety Live. A line of excellent men’s haircare and grooming products with a magnificent scent, which you can experience for yourself at BSL 2018. “Keune also supports our BSL People’s Choice BarberShop Award for Dutch and Belgian barbers. The second time that we bring this award in cooperation with the Dutch and Belgian review platform ‘WieWatHem’”

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“In the meantime, we can now launch our men’s hair care and grooming line, 1922 by J.M. Keune, with pride at this great event. 1922 is an homage to my grandfather (founder of Keune and a barber in 1922!). This completes the circle, because my grandfather and the grandfather of Marc were each other’s neighbours on the canals of Amsterdam with their businesses (respectively a pharmacy and a barber). Coincidence does not exist!”


The third instalment of BarberSociety Live. hosted by Chris Foster Featuring... Shows

Flying in from the USA, the one and only Mikey Henger The B.O.M.B. Squad Paul Mac Special Leah Hayden Cassidy Menspire Sid Sottung Sam Wall James ‘Jim the Trim’ Williams Spiridon ‘Lord’ Kaparakis International Barber Awards winner Kevin Boon 1922 by JM KEUNE American Crew

Classes* ‘Monday’ Mikey Henger: A no bullshit approach to the industry. An in-depth conversation on how to build your brand, not just your clientele. Sid Sottung: Look & Learn Scapicchio Barber Shop: Shaving Workshop – the Scapicchio family is one of the most ancient families still active in the barbering industry. Since 1820, five generations have handed down the art of Italian shaving. *additional cost

Early bird tickets available via www.bar be r socie tylive .com

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By Matthew McLaughlin

Badlands

B A R B E R

C O M P A N Y

There’s warm smiles and exchanges of terrible banter. Badlands Barber Company owner Grant George has just finished masterfully cutting my hair before we move next door to the cosy Black Pine coffee shop. Grant immediately begins to talk about his aspirations for the Badlands Barbering School set to open in April. He speaks confidently and with razor-sharp wit about teaching prospective students the Badlands way, if, as he ponders, there is such a Badlands way.

T

he idea for a barbering school came about when Brandon Mundo (manager of the Perth shop) put it forward. However, it was put on hold when Grant learned that his wife, and Badlands co-owner, Sofi was pregnant with their first child. But, with the success of the Glasgow shop, which opened in March 2017, Grant describes a shift. “I had an epiphany moment where I thought there’s a massive space upstairs and all we want to do is wait for the shop to get busy so we can make it into a big barbershop. “When it’s not going to be used as a school it can be doubled up as a barbershop, or if the students get to a point where they can cut hair really well and they want to do walk-ins or discounted haircuts we can just open it up.” Badlands Barbering School will offer students free scissors and clippers to make sure they’re getting started with the right equipment, but the real bonus is being in the barbershop environment and learning the trade from everyone around you. Crucially, Grant wants to instil in his students the same passion that he possesses for all aspects of barbering. Not just to learn the trade of barbering, but to soak in the environment, the customer service, and the social media aspects of the industry as well.

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“Having the barbershop downstairs from the school, it’s a good thing for the students to learn from watching us. You know we’ve not got 20 years’ experience, I think we have four or five years each but that’s good enough to be confident in what we’re doing. “I probably change this percentage every time I talk about it. But being able to do a haircut is probably 70% of a haircut. So we want to teach people not just how to cut hair, but how to build and retain a clientele. “Social media is such a big part of barbering now and it’s great, but there’s some negatives in some sense. We want to teach people how to utilise it, because hashtags are important, [but] they shouldn’t be because you could do three haircuts a day and make those haircuts look really cool in photos but that means nothing if you’ve not got the clientele.” This isn’t Grant’s first foray into education however. A year and a half into opening the Perth shop he took on then 17-year-old Andy MacDonald as his apprentice. Some might say too soon, but Grant has taken away just as much from the experience. “I don’t take all the credit for that because I only taught him the basics. The same for anyone coming onto our course, you’ll get out of it as much as you put in. “You can teach someone what you know, but it’s what they take from it and what they learn from other places. The way I watch Andy cut hair now isn’t how I taught him but he took from the environment, the teachers, all the other barbers around him giving him constant support while going through the later stages of his teenage years and now he’s in his 20s and booked out like a week, two weeks in advance.” The Badlands Barber Company has been Grant’s pride and joy since he started cutting hair in his bedroom and in 2014, when he got the opportunity to open his first shop. For the school, Grant wants to take from the experience he gained while learning at SB Barbering Academy as this is something he believes is missing in Scotland. “I spent every Monday for six months travelling to and from Newcastle because for me there was nothing in Scotland that offered what they offered because it was in a barber shop. “It was very personable and the teacher was very good, so I took a lot from it in how I would approach our teaching.” Badlands has always held close ties with Uppercut hair products and Grant’s confidence in the brand is unshakable. The brand will kit the school with barber

gowns, combs and brushes for the students helping with the set-up, advertising and marketing as well as supplying their products to all the students. “We worked with them for long enough where they were willing to help us out and kick-start the shop and we’re working with their marketing team which is cool. And the students will get introduced to a brand that has versatility in their products and has plenty to offer. “It creates a future for me without having a future in front of me.” The conversation tapers off to the thoughts of a legacy the Badlands crew could cultivate for Scottish barbering. If nothing else can be gathered from our chat, it’s clear that Grant’s desire to keep traditional barbering alive will certainly make Badlands a cut above the rest.

Photography by Space21

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NV

SHOWCASE

MEN’S

Collection 22 | BarberNV Magazine

Hair: Olga García @ Olga García Estilista Photographer: David Arnal Stylism: Eunnis Mesa MUA: Wilder Rodríguez


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j ames

w illiams

James Williams – BBA Barber of the Year 2017 In Profile with the BBA How did you get into barbering? “I got into hairdressing at age 17. I had an apprenticeship in a big salon down in my hometown. My mother went there for her hair and took me for years when I was a young boy. I never knew what I wanted to do so my mother asked Andrew the owner if I could start with him. They told me I should use my creative side as I always loved drawing and to collaborate into hair.” Whose barbering work do you always look out for today? “The guys I look up to now are: Alan and Reece Beak, always a favourite, Chris Foster, MK, Ryan Cullen, Connor Taffe, Josh Lamonaca, the Green Brothers, they all have strong variations so I like to take ideas from others to collaborate into my own.” What’s your approach to training? “Education plays a big part in all aspects of my job. From understanding head shapes and how the hair falls correctly to how much length you need to maintain. Hairdressing methods are becoming more popular in men’s hair, so having a hairdresser’s background helps a lot.” What one piece of advice would you give any learners

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today? Perhaps something you could have told your younger self?

If you could give it all up for one other job in the world, what would it be?

“My advice to learners today, which I could have learned more when I was younger, is I wish I was as passionate about my career as I am now – I’m never afraid to learn from others, I’m always looking to improve my standards, and I never rush my work. I aim for perfecting my skillset, but also be prepared for what comes through the door. There’s more to life than just cutting hair – children with autism or special needs need a haircut just the same as everybody else. You should be prepared for the unexpected.”

“I can’t give an answer for that, I love my job too much and I wouldn’t know what to do if I left it all.”

What’s next for your career? “My shop is now expanding with more barbers and eventually when that’s ready we can aim to open up another. My aim is to push for more education in men’s hair. I’m lucky to be getting opportunities on main stages at hair shows but I want to do more workshops, improve standards, and bring on young aspiring barbers and educate more barbers around autism. Also, being the founder of Autism Barbers Assemble, we want to take it not just national but global by the end of next year as the demand is calling for it.”

You have one sentence to inspire a 17-year-old about to start out on a career in barbering. What do you say to them? “Always believe in yourself. Don’t let anybody make you doubt your ability, you never know where you will end up.” And finally, what’s on the immediate horizon? “To continue to strive to be the best barber I can and to put “Autism Barbers Assemble” well and truly on the British barbering map. Take a look at the website www.autismbarbersassemble.nearcut.com


B B A

B a r b e r

Become A BBA Legend Do you have what it takes to replace James as British Barber of the Year in association with the BBA? Hosted annually by the BBA with support from Andis, BBA male grooming range, and Booksy, the competition aims to find out who truly is the best of the best when it comes to the UK’s barbering scene. With James’s career rising meteorically since his victory, it goes beyond simple prizes and can truly be the difference between having a good career and having a great one. You’ll be feted by your peers and your name will be known around the world as one of the best barbers in the industry. Open to all BBA members, entrants must submit three photographs featuring different models and demonstrating their abilities in fading, flattops, and creativity by 29 March 2018.

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A shortlist of just eight semi-finalists will then be chosen by a panel of the BBA’s top judges to compete live at Barber UK, Birmingham NEC, on Monday 21 May 2018.

barbers in the business. It’s a fantastic opportunity for anyone out there who thinks they have the skills to give their career a massive boost and be recognised by their industry and peers.”

The two highest scoring finalists will then go headto-head in the BBA’s very own boxing ring showcasing their creative cutting skills to be crowned British Barber of the Year 2018.

Karen Formico, Andis’s Vice President of Marketing says: “We are proud to be working with the BBA as part of the judging panel for the British Barber of the Year award. The competition is a brilliant opportunity for us to experience new and exciting talent, witnessing the best in technical ability and accuracy. It’s a great honour for Andis to be part of this association, helping to push the boundaries within the barber industry.”

As well as the coveted title, the winner will receive the prestigious BBA British Barber of the Year belt, £2,000 prize money, and men’s grooming products worth £500. The runner-up will also receive a BBA plaque, £500 prize money, and £500 worth of products. Trevor Studd, BBA Business Development Director said: “The British Barber of the Year is now the premier competition for men’s hairdressing and barbering in the UK, and some of the past winners of the title have gone on to be the best known and most respected

Entry is open to all BBA members. Cost of entry is free, as is membership of the BBA for those not already members. To request an application form, contact the BBA at competitions@britishbarbers.com For more info go to britishbarbers.com

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Men’s Hair & Beard Trends 2018 T H E B LU E B E A R D S R E V E N G E As we take our first steps into 2018, we can’t help but wonder what it might bring: A smooth and effortless Brexit withdrawal? Don’t hold your breath. How about jetpacks? We hope so. Perhaps a full blown Twitter war will break out? With Trump around, who knows! Our friends at The Bluebeards Revenge have asked some of Britain’s most influential barbers to embrace their clairvoyant sides and provide the all-important hair and beard insights for 2018. Is long hair coming back into fashion? “Recently I’ve had quite a few clients asking to keep their length on both the top and the sides,” says Adam Rossington-Smith of Scissor and Comb UK. “This opens up 2018 to some very versatile styles, with a blend of clean tapered edges and soft, textured waves on top.” What does this mean for the super popular fade styles of 2017? Adam says: “I highly doubt that we will see a massive reduction of fades next year. Part of the reason they became so popular was because they are clean and super easy to maintain, and lots of men still don’t like the thought of having to prune too much. ” Meanwhile, Tom Chapman, award-winning barber and founder of the Lions Barber Collective charity, believes that “fades will remain fashionable, but more men will start to favour tapers; looking for a finish that is less sharp. More men will start to ask for their edges to be left a little more natural too.” What hairstyling products will be in popular demand for 2018? Adam says: “Medium and long hairstyles will give men more opportunities to experiment with products. Personally, sea salt sprays are my absolute favourite right now. They add texture and a light hold to fine hair, and volume to thicker hair. They help to create a natural look as well, which is very fashionable right now and will continue to dominate throughout 2018. ““Volumizing powders have become a big hit for men seeking a natural look too. They’re easy to use and pretty cost effective – a 10 gram container should easily

bulk up flat styles for a few months.” Tom says: “With the right education, I think a lot of men could return to hair gels this year. As a product, modern hair gels are massively undervalued for their styling capabilities: softer gels can be used as pre-styling products to give styles structure all day and barbers often use them while sectioning medium and long hair.” Will barbers struggle with any of the new trends? Adam, who graduated from Toni & Guy before specialising in barbering, says: “Barbers who have joined the industry in the last few years will probably find themselves facing styles that they have never really had to deal with. “Shorter styles have dominated the barbering scene for so long now that new barbers have likely had little experience with anything longer than a clipper cut on the sides. “Of course, with longer haircuts comes the chance to learn endless new techniques for adding texture and creating movement. The new fashions will help barbers to develop their scissor skills and will provide practice in handling and sectioning longer hair. They will also show the importance of proper blow drying techniques and require a better understanding of less conventional styling products.

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2018 BEARD TRENDS With the trends for the hair on our heads covered, it’s time to concentrate on the stubble and scruff that sprouts from our chins. Will beards still be popular in 2018? The masculinity, maturity and respect that beards give to men means they will never completely fall out of fashion, no matter how far into the future we go. Simon ‘Bones’ Bethel, from Sandyman Chop Shop in Exeter, believes we will still continue to see a steady flow of beards throughout 2018. He said: “While there are fewer men sporting big bushy beards these days, we still do a lot of short beard trims in the Chop Shop. I don’t expect this to change for 2018.” Beard styles for 2018 Over the past few years, rough-cut, lumberjack styles have dominated the look books, but the next 12 months will see changes according to Bones. “Men are starting to wear their beards shorter and with more shape,” he said. “These styles mean that creating strong cheek lines with razors, and tapering these into the sideburns and hair line will be the way forward.” As beards get shorter, designer stubbles are likely to gain a little more traction too. Ex-serviceman and current Master Barber Liam Hamilton, from Hamilton’s Barbershop in Cornwall, says these looks are “ideal for men who want to add a little masculinity to their look.” They also work particularly well for men who are attempting to achieve a more “rugged” style, without the same timely maintenance of a full beard. Beard products for 2018 “The men’s grooming market is receiving huge investments at the moment, and products that were previously unknown to men are now becoming essentials,” said Managing Director of The Bluebeards Revenge, David Hildrew. “Now, more than ever, men are taking an invested interest in their appearance and this is causing beard oils, brushes and waxes to boom in popularity.” Liam, a bearded barber himself, says: “The best beards have a shine and

healthiness to them that can only be created with high-quality beard oils. A few drops of oil, combed through from the roots to the tips, will enhance any man’s beard and leave it smelling irresistible.” Moustache styles for 2018 2018 might just be the year for full and fuzzy moustaches. Finally, they’re seen less like Charlie Bronson’s and more like Tom Selleck’s. “The humble moustache can help to add balance to the right man’s face, soften a more dominant jawline, and compliment a man’s eyebrows,” says Liam. However, lots of men still struggle to confidently wear this facial accessory. “If you’re lacking the confidence to wear a moustache in 2018, why not wait until Movember comes around? Then you can hide in the crowd,” suggests Liam. “Or, if you’re feeling brave, try growing your stubble out around it. This helps to frame your moustache and won’t leave your face feeling so isolated and bare.”

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PRODUCTENV Y

Editor’s Choice

EDITOR’ S COMMENT We’re having a fresh start at BarberNV, so why don’t you? It’s the perfect time to ditch your old products and try some of the new ranges hitting the market. There’s never been a broader variety to choose from and, trust us, the quality is better than ever. You won’t regret taking a chance on any of these little beauties.

Label.M Fashion Edition Range The ultimate ‘backstage hair edit’ featuring Powder to Wax weightless powder and Dry Volumising Paste combining dry shampoo with workable styling paste. £14.25 - £14.50 labelm.com

Village Barber Premium Shaving Oil Therapeutic-grade natural oils ensure your clients will never have been so relaxed. £18.95 villagebarber.com

Mr Hawke Flex Pomade They say it’s “the world’s best pomade”. It’s the only product Mr Hawke make so they certainly believe in it. Quality over quantity. $44 mrhawke.com

Fudge Vinyl Pomade Revive the rebellious 1950s vibe with this medium-hold conditioning pomade with veneer shine. £13.95 fudgeprofessional.com

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PRODUCTENVY

Neal & Wolf SHAPE Pliable Paste and FORM Sculpting Lotion SHAPE your short hair and add FORM to hair that needs a little TLC. £12.95 each nealandwolf.com

Morgan’s Pomade Sea Salt Spray Get that gritty, textured look in your styles that works great with a blow-dry. £9.50 morganspomade.co.uk

Reuzel Fiber Gel

King Brown

Unlike the scumbags behind it, Fiber Gel is alcohol-free. Diffuse dry into long, curly hair for perfectly formed curls.

An all-rounder for a natural look, textured styles, and matte-look classics.

£12.99

$24

reuzel.co.uk

kingbrownpomade.com

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Grooming

Clubman Beard and Body Wash One whiff of Clubman’s Tom Gin inspired fragrance and you will be instantly energised and refreshed. £15 barberblades.co.uk

Shu Uemura Clay Definer Strong textured hold and a neat matte finish with this rough molding pomade. $39 shuuemuraartofhair.com

Mr Blackman’s Beard & Shave Oil and Balm Whether stopping your beard from looking like a carpet or moisturising it and the skin below, Mr Blackmans keeps your facial hair under control. £9.95-£19.95 mrblackmans.com

High Life Moustache Wax The best choice for a simple, classic look. Chevron, English, handlebar, or imperial style. $5 highlifepomade.com

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Hawkins & Brimble coming at us with a facial moisturiser collection. It includes Daily Vitamin Moisturiser, SPF15 Moisturiser, and Oily Skin Moisturiser.

PRODUCTENVY

Hawkins & Brimble

£14.95 each hawkinsandbrimble.co.uk

Alter Ego Cleansing Shampoo Purify and stimulate the scalp while restoring strength and resistance. £9.95 alterego.com

Love Sick London x Barbershop Beard Oil Collaborations are taking over. If frankincense is good enough for baby Jesus then blending it with rosewood is a good enough scent for us. £14.99 thebeardshed.co.uk

Malin and Goetz Vitamin E Shaving Cream A touch of menthol helps cool and refresh the skin, with only a thin layer required. £32 malinandgoetz.co.uk

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PRODUCTENVY

PRODUCTENV Y

Combs & Brushes

Wahl Kent Academy Barber Comb A firm bristled fade brush to keep your work smooth and clean.

Any collaboration between two of the biggest names in the industry is sure to be good. This doesn’t disappoint.

£6

£12

Sibel Classic 57 Military Brush

barberblades.co.uk

coolblades.co.uk

Uppercut Deluxe BB3 Black Cutting Comb Wet Brush Detangler Knots? Not anymore. Detangle and de-stress hair with ease. $11.99 thewetbrush.com

Mr Hawke Carbon Fibre, matt black, pocket-sized, and with two teeth widths so that it performs as intended across different hair lengths, styles and types. $17 w mrhawke.com

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Wide and tight teeth offer you great control when cutting and styling, whether you’re after a quiff or a slicker look. £6 coolblades.co.uk


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Furniture & Equipment

Atlas Single Sided Mirror Station For the futuristic, minimalistic barbershop. Keep your goods secure and your shop stylish. £252 livingitupsalon.co.uk

Panasonic GP30 Clipper Cut the cord and fly through even thick hair quickly and cleanly. £53 + VAT denmanbrush.com

Maletti Zerbini 1906 Style and substance combined. Email info@ maletti.co.uk for more information and to get your shop kitted out. maletti.it/en/

Donald Scott NYC Carving Comb Fine We’ll hand over to Ross Charles for this one. “Ideal tool for weight reduction” with “pinpoint precision”. £44.95 hairdressersinyork.co.uk

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Another classic from the REM range. Available in all of the REM fabric range, including black.

PRODUCTENVY

Rem Emperor Select Barber Chair

£1,383 rem.co.uk

Andis T-Outliner Cordless Li An icon unleashed. 100-minutes of run time means you’ll never go back to corded. £149/€169 andis.com

Takara Belmont Dainty Barber Chair Strikingly attractive, purposefully versatile longterm partner. £1,045 + VAT takarahairdressing.co.uk

Premier Gold Bronx Plus Barber Unit The deep walnut finish gives a traditional rustic look and feel. Holds all your barbering essentials. £775 salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

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PRODUCTENVY

PRODUCTENV Y

Apparel

Uppercut Cape Sleek and simple, Uppercut’s classy cape is a welcome addition to the barbershop.

King Brown Pomade ‘Insignia’ Tee

£8.40

Slither into a King Brown top and show your Aussie spirit.

coolblades.co.uk

$50 kingbrownpomade.com

Hard Grind ‘Trust Your Barber’ T-Shirt Let them put their throat in your hands. Extended body t-shirt with hand-drawn style graphic. £25 hardgrind.co.uk

TITANICDENIM Bonafide Pomade Cobra Cape Only bona fide barbers can pull off this large logo tee from the US pomade giants. $20 bonafidepomade.com

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COMPETITION WINNER We had hundreds of entries who all correctly identified George Best as the person who has an airport named after him in Belfast. Unfortunately, only one person could take home the custom-designed barber’s apron from TitanicDenim worth £100.

And the winner is.... @Kyrangibsonbarber


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TitanBarber

John Carmona BarberNV Magazine | 39


Fresh start, fresh look. BarberNV is reimagined for 2018. We called upon good friend, and great barber, Sam Wall to create the perfect shot to bring us into a new era of the magazine. While, for many, a curtains haircut maybe a polarising choice, a throwback to some dark corner of the 90s inhabited only by a young David Beckham and the Backstreet Boys, we trusted that Sam could create something stunning.

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Sam’s work on the cover image for this issue is the culmination of his creative freedom and being comfortable in his vision. The concept for the cover shoot was based on the twins themselves. Along with some creative input from fellow stylist Leighanne Regan, the result is an insight into Sam’s creative vision, as he explains: “I wanted to prove to her after a recent conversation that curtains could indeed look cool.”

It was the twins’ first shoot, but Sam says that once things got underway the collective creativity flowed: “I started to experiment with the hair, eventually going with a centre parting whilst Marie took it to another level with an idea she had been sitting on for a while. The hair was set and the shoot continued, when Marie simply told us to slowly empty a whole jug of water over the twins’ heads, well… you can imagine our faces. As a team we created some of my favourite images to date.” The boundless creativity of Sam Wall and the team around him have produced such striking images and he tells us: “This is the exact reason I love the people around me as sometimes it’s best not to plan too much, but to throw a mix of creative and talented people in the studio to just see what happens. Freedom with creativity.”

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Model: Tyne Tees Photography: Harkness Photography MUA: Jo Leversuch

Sam Wall is a man of many talents and far-reaching ambitions, with a flourishing career brimming with accolades and an undeniable flair for creativity. Working at the stunning Gateshead based Hidden Heights Creative Studio, Sam follows a simple philosophy to ensure his originality: “Your work is your work, everyone has an individual style or should have at least. This trade allows us to be so open minded, free with creativity, and we always have the option to learn something new.” With such a refreshingly forward-looking attitude, the industry and all of his personal goals are certainly Sam’s for the taking and he stands as an example for others to stoke your imagination and see what it delivers.

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worldwide with a number of front covers as well. Now that I’m at Hidden Heights I honestly can’t wait to continue to push forward in this area as one of my dreams is to be published in and or work with Vogue and GQ. I currently write two columns, my first being for a UK Fashion Magazine called La Di Da and the second being an inspirational Dutch Hairdressing Magazine called Coiffure Magazine.” Sam is forever learning from each new experience he creates for himself. With the move up north he describes as being just like heaven. He says: “It allowed me to pursue more of the fashion industry, it’s allowing me to learn everything from photography to make up and it’s also improved my hairdressing skills.

published was a great achievement for him. Things like this make me buzz as this is what it is about for me, helping where ever I can, not only making my clients feel a million bucks but bringing people together in the industry and sharing whatever it is I can to help those that want it. The more I achieve the more I’ll be in a better position to give back.” Becoming part of American Crew is an industry aspiration for many and Sam was

“I like working with up and coming people and this photographer had never shot in a studio before. So to give him that experience where he could learn and then get his image

“It was my most proud moment to date in my career as I could never have dreamt about being selected for such a role. This made me realise just anything is possible and since then I have worked at both London Fashion Week Men’s and ladies’ London Fashion Week, as well as travelling the world and witnessing some amazing sights, but, more so, I’ve met some amazing people.” Indeed, like so many young creative, Sam has taken from all facets of the industry and the people he has met in his journey, integrating his experience as a hairdresser into barbering. His wealth of knowledge and advice is invaluable to young and aspirational barbers and he recommends they “keep an open mind to learning as much as you can and try everything!”

“But most importantly, the biggest part of Hidden Heights which helps me develop is the team I’m surrounded by. Marie Harkness and Aimee Blunt give me nothing but inspiration and the freedom we have to express ourselves through creativity has helped me grow as a person as well.” It’s clear by the high calibre of work produced by the studio that the environment and the collective drive has given Sam the biggest push in his career to explore the depths of his own personal style. But, it’s just this driven and inspirational environment that allows Sam to give back to the industry as he has done with the front cover shoot for BNV15.

part of the brand’s Global Elite Team.

no different and he admits this was “my main aim when I started male grooming.” At his first men’s salon, Alan Jones Male Grooming in Sevenoaks, Dan Gregory, who was a Crew educator, came out to teach staff about the brand. This was the inception of Sam’s desire to be part of American Crew as he recounts: “I remember turning to him on that day and asking ‘how did you get to be involved with Crew? I want in!’ Seven years later after some persistence I may add, I managed to get noticed.” After all that hard graft, Sam is now

Sam has an undeniable aura of positivity and this is integral to his continued growth. “Avoid negativity and don’t let others bring your work down. Remember it’s an opinionated field and perfection is in the eye of the beholder. It is important to put yourself out there and that can be very scary at times but it is vital for building your profile. You’re representing yourself as well as your company so make sure you market yourself in the right way and more importantly do it with respect and dignity.” One last parting piece of wisdom from Sam to anyone in the industry looking to unleash their fullest potential is to “kaeep it real and realise that whatever success it is your chasing, be it money, fame, or even inner peace, we need to realise that any success takes time: a flood always starts off as a puddle.”

Hidden Heights Creative Studio

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Sam is nothing if not humble and credits many industry influencers in helping him hone his skill and develop his personal style. He tells us: “There are a few people in my industry who have inspired, motivated, and helped me find my way. First being Sandra Wood. Sandra trained me up early doors as a hairdresser and has been an influential part of my life, not only on a personal level but on a business level as well. The second guy I want to mention is Kevin Luchmun. I’m sure for those of you that know him already understand just why he has been such a huge inspiration.” He continues: “I want to mention Chris Foster and The Bomb Squad with Alan Findlay, Martin Fox, and James Beattie. All of these guys have not only inspired me and helped me develop but are incredible guys to know as well.”

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Photography: Harkness Photography www.harknessphotography.com Instagram: @harknessphotography Hair: Mr Sam Wall www.mrsamwall.co.uk Instagram: @mrsamwall Clothing Stylist: Style By Co www.stylebyco.com Instagram: @stylebyco Location: Hidden Heights Creative Studio www.hiddenheightsstudio.com Instagram: @hiddenheightsstudio

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INTERIORNV

A New Lease of Life

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ensure I can afford to kit my barbershop with the best barber chairs in the business’.

Protect your cash flow and manage your equipment investments with flexible leasing options across Takara Belmont’s entire range. For barbershop owners looking for a complete renovation, take advantage of beneficial purchasing options to upgrade your services and expand your offering.

Bonds Barbershop features Takara Belmont’s hero grooming chair, the Apollo 2, a supremely industrious iconic stalwart of the barber industry that has captured the imagination of barbers and continued to dominate global interiors. Its timeless design available in a variety of customisable options, features 360° lockable rotation with a synchronised reclining backrest and raising footrest for ultimate luxury and interior style. Japanese heat pressed or stitch sewn upholstery combined with its cast-iron metalwork enhances its build for quality, reliability, and comfort, delivering decades of uninterrupted service.

Equipment leasing can be an effective way to access high price furnishings that your business needs to flourish without the initial capital outlay, saving your cash for rent, stock, training, and other daily expenses. Spread the cost of your equipment purchases over a period of time for a more tax efficient way to manage your assets. With many leasing options available, design your agreement to suit your business needs claiming ownership at the end of your settlement. Mike Taylor, founder of Bonds Barbershop and barber of 27 years says ‘Belmont chairs unbeatably stand the test of time with unsurpassed quality and attention to detail for optimum client comfort. Leasing has enabled me to conserve my cash flow and budget effectively, knowing I can spread the cost over a period of time to

An iconic design that spans beyond the world of barbering, the Apollo 2 is a must have for the heart of every barbershop. With an array of leasing options, reach your business’ full potential whilst fulfilling your clients desires, providing them with long-standing premium service. Taylor says ‘the best part about leasing is that it allows you to stay up to date with the latest advances in equipment and technology innovation to ensure you are at the cutting edge of your industry’. Recognising the benefits of leasing to manage your equipment investments is fundamental to achieving your dreams. Discover more at: www.takarahairdressing.co.uk Email: hairdressing@takara.co.uk Call: 020 7515 0333


IN COLLABORATION WITH

VINYL POMADE Lacqu er Shine

Medium Hold

FIND YOUR STOCKIST AT FUDGEPROFESSIONAL.COM BarberNV Magazine | 49


“We’re all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars” – Oscar Wilde

Irish poet Oscar Wilde succinctly summed up the positive attitude that many of his countr ymen and women share. Never scared to aim high and willing to go to great lengths to achieve their goals, it’s no surprise that Irish barbers are doing so well. Paul Mac graced our cover back in BNV6. Leah Hayden Cassidy is tearing it up at Nomad Berlin which featured in our last issue, and Johnny BaBa’s Barber Barber chain continues to make waves in the UK. Rather than talk to the established stars, we decided to speak with two Irish barbers who are on th e cusp of greatness. Kim Powell and Marie Rainsford are leading the way when it comes to female barbering talent in Ireland, with Kim recently making the move to London and Marie heading to North America in the near future. We also checked in with BNV5’s Barbershop of the Month Cut & Sew, as the Dublin based brand continue their plan for world domination! They have some fair competition from The Master Barber Shop who have the largest Instagram following of any shop in Ireland, with owner Paul McGann attracting worldwide attention for his unusual cutting habits. Read on to f ind out more and enjoy your trip to the Emerald Isle.

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Cut & Sew

STILL YUNGRY Almost two years on from when we featured Cut & Sew as our Barbershop of the Month back in BNV5, we caught up with owner Sean Bryan to see how they’re getting on. WHAT’S CHANGED? “We have grown to four shops! None of which are franchised so I am busy! “Each shop has expanded with tweaks here and there – new additions and, as always, kept fresh with new artwork, apparel, and growing at a steady pace. Also our YouTube videos and education sections have really taken off. Check out Cut & Sew Barbers to see our step-by-step videos on every cut. “Now we are so big and possibly the biggest shop (non-franchised) in Ireland, things naturally have to change to allow growth. My role has changed hugely; I currently work in our new shop in Dundrum

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to build it up to be as busy as the three city centre locations. I run the apparel (design and distribution) and the education also. We’re still the same crew but better and more focused than ever, or as I like to say, ‘yungry!’ Young and hungry!” CLOTHING LINE? “It’s flying! I think we’ve hit every continent apart from Antarctica. So if anybody who lives there reads this, buy a t-shirt and I’ll send you another free! We have 13 different pieces to choose from and various colours that we change every few months – a few new additions this year as well, but the best sellers will never leave.” HIGHLIGHTS OF THE PAST 18 MONTHS? “Cutting on the main stage of the Belfast Barber Bash for the GBBB guys. Big love for having us and we want to do it again on a bigger scale! “We were flown over to cut hair in Ibiza Rocks, this was insane! Also we had a huge collaboration with Puma, literally one of the biggest sports brands in the world! Another brand we worked with again was Benetti, who sponsor the Irish football team so we did some TV work with them.

“The biggest thing to date is we have made a documentary. Insane! We had a film crew follow us around for five months to showcase what it means to be a barber. It’s called ‘Not just a barbershop’ and it’s on our website cutandsew.ie and on YouTube. You can see footage of us cutting hair at festivals and in Ibiza.” THE FUTURE? “We want to open in New York and flew out there in December to look at premises and also London. I think the men of New York and London could benefit from what we have to offer and our way of doing things seems to work. I want to grow a lot more and develop the Irish industry without all these egomaniac barbers who think they’re rockstars. Man or woman we are all the same. We are craftsmen/women, we are not paid to be creative, we are paid to do what the client wants. Although I do encourage being creative, so I want to develop the ‘craft’ and motivate others and the next generation by being a better barber this year than last.”


The Master Barber Shop coming to a screen near you. When your only barbershop burns down at Christmas, your natural instinct may be to give up. Paul McGann didn’t. With his business partner Derek Mearns, he rebuilt it, bigger and better than ever before.

H

ave you ever seen a man cut hair with a pair of sheep shears? Rather than being an oversized novelty, they are Paul’s tool of choice in the shop. He doesn’t hold stock with the opinion that to be a good barber you need a £1,000 pair of cutters. “Scissors mean jack shit.” Paul isn’t a man scared to voice his opinion, and we love him for it. “I see young barbers these days who think that buying expensive scissors will make them a good barber. But if you are a good barber, properly trained, a pair from IKEA will do you.” Properly trained. That’s what Paul believes is the main problem when it comes to the barbers coming through the system today. He underwent a four-year training course and believes that’s the only way you can call yourself a “proper barber”. To help those who haven’t quite mastered the craft, Paul is using Instagram to create educational videos to guide them through. A daily routine now for Paul, he can put together a video addressing a specific problem a young barber is having with less than 24-hours’ notice. “Everyone wants to be a barber but they’re only doing six-months training. Now youngsters are calling themselves barbers and can’t even use scissors or cut long hair. They’re doing shortcuts but it’s like having a Ferrari with no engine. “The videos I do are for young barbers who are after doing courses and are working in shops. They can

private message me on Instagram and I’ll do a video the next day. Then the guy who requested it will get in touch to say it was brilliant and it helped them... or some don’t but nine times out of ten it’s good. “These lads are getting ripped off with courses but they’re slowly getting to know they can get in touch with me.” More than just helping with their clipper and scissor skills, Paul uses his videos to get across pertinent business advice, and with his first shop being rebuilt from the ground up and his second just opened, he’s in a perfect position to give it. Paul says: “The business advice is huge. A lot of barbers are struggling to keep the shops going, and I’m not saying I know it all but I can teach them from my mistakes. I advise barbers not to walk into the trap we walked into. “The shop that burned down was an old shop and the money wasn’t there to do it up. We rebuilt it and got the money together to put in a real fancy shop and business quadrupled. Nowadays you can’t just open a barbershop and stick a chair in it. It has to be appealing and draw people in.”

The Bogman’s Ball How do you celebrate the end of turfing season? With a massive party of course! Having spent months meticulously cutting, turning, and saving thousands of tonnes of turf (no easy task I can assure you), it’s a time for the hardworking bogmen to let their hair down and Paul was on hand (with his shears of course) to make sure that hair was in tiptop shape, but with their social media fame spreading there were more than a few punters excited to see the Master Barber Shop team. “The Bogman’s Ball was crazy! I actually had to have a minder with me in the car park as it got out of hand so the pub owner put one of the bouncers on me. Everyone was so excited to see us and talk to us. At one stage we had 1,000 people around me trying to get in and see – it was bit frightening for a minute!” Fortunately a few autographs and some free haircuts kept the situation under control.

It’s the same formula Paul has followed for his second shop, and there are no plans to change it with a third opening in July in Dublin. Why mess with a winning combination? Customers have come from as far as the States to have a taste of the unique barbershop experience offered at The Master Barber Shop so we’d say it’s working.

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LONDON C ALLING Kim Powell

In four years Kim Powell has turned her life around. Struggling with depression and lacking in selfconfidence, her barbering career could easily have been over before it began; instead she’s one of the most in-demand barbers in London, having worked at three top shop chains in the past year, building on her talents and setting herself up for what should be a special 2018.

Driven to Succeed What’s striking about Kim is her passion to educate herself. With little formal education and dyslexia adding to her difficulties, the odds were against her. But you can’t stop someone with a drive to improve themselves as Kim has shown. Having already worked in a unisex salon in Ireland, she spent time travelling around Australia and picked up the skills of modern barbering from a varied assortment of barbers from South America, Asia, the Middle East, and elsewhere, giving her a solid footing in all aspects of the trade. It was when she came back to Ireland that her problems began. Kim explains that the plan was to return to Australia but she “found out that the company I worked for went bust. My suitcase is still over there!” With going back down under no longer an option, Kim’s mental health began to be affected. “I hit rock bottom with depression about four years ago and barbering did save my life. I stayed away from everyone and built a barbershop in my house.” While picking up whatever work she could, Kim set about saving every last penny for barbering courses and training days. As well as improving her skills, training with Garry Spencer and the guys from the Great British Barber Bash education team helped open her eyes to her own situation. Kim says: “I didn’t realise just how low my confidence was until I had to cut in front of the boys. But they could see the passion in me which was really nice to hear from someone with a lot of experience.” The courses kept coming and Kim kept attending. Slowly, but surely, she began to realise just what she was capable of as a barber. “Only in the last two

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years am I feeling confident in myself for my work. I worked full-time, went to another barbershop to learn how to shave with a guy who had been doing it for 40 years. Whatever money I was getting in each week was spent on scissors, clippers – I use Wahl, I’m old school and I stick with the old school stuff.” Irish Barber in London With her stock rising, Kim began to be offered guest spots. First going to Evolution of Man outside Manchester before coming to London with the highly respected Pall Mall. “They asked me do you want this job,” Kim explains. “I was like, financially I can’t, I don’t know London, and I have nowhere to live. But then I thought I’ll bite the bullet and went to London with not a penny in my pocket, living on couches.” Kim’s confidence and self-belief had improved so much from her darkest days a few years ago that she was now willing to take such a big risk. Fortunately it paid off, and Pall Mall was a great experience for her. So much so that Kim was eventually offered another job at our former Barbershop of the Month, Porters. She enjoyed her time at Porters and despite feeling a sense of pressure, it brought out the best in her: “To get opportunities like that, it overwhelms me massively. “I didn’t know how much I knew until I was there and helping teach other people as well: colour, threading, shaves, afro hair, anything.” Looking Forward For the past two years, Headcase barbers have been trying to entice Kim to join their team, and now they finally have her at their Cannon Wharf shop. It’s the latest stop in a whirlwind adventure in London for Kim but she’s rightly proud of herself for taking the

opportunities offered to her and making a new life. Having made one for herself she’s now looking to help improve the lives of others. Helping to support barbers who cut the hair of the homeless, and looking to get into educating convicts are just two of the ways she hopes to make life better for the less fortunate. Having been at rock bottom herself, she’s happy to shun the limelight and the event stages in search of finding something more meaningful from the industry. “Not everyone gets a chance,” Kim says. “Someone gave me a chance, so I’d like to do the same.”

@kp_clips


Hair: Kim Powell

Model: Sean Murphy

Photography Noleen Kavanagh


Hail

M ARIE Marie Rainsford isn’t scared to take the world on. Whether it’s Australia or Canada, this Limerick born stylist has the confidence and talent to pick up her scissors and make a move. They say fortune favours the brave and it’s clear from both her lifestyle choices and creative cuts that Marie is one bold barber.

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The First Leap The Irish are an itinerant people. One of the few countries to have more of its citizens living abroad than within its own borders, it’s no surprise that having qualified as stylist Marie boarded a plane to the southern hemisphere. Travelling around Australia not only opened Marie’s mind to the joys of exploring the world, but helped establish her love for barbering. Picking up a job at widespread Aussie chain Tommy Guns, Marie found that “within a few days I knew this is what I wanted to do.” Her Australian adventure couldn’t last forever though, and it was soon back to Ireland. The Return With a passion for barbering ablaze inside her, there was only going to be one choice for Marie when it came to finding work. “When I came home from travelling I had the option of going back to doing women’s hair or a fresh start at Figaro Barber Shop. So I said I’d go with my gut feeling and never looked back.” It wasn’t any fly-by-night operation she’d be joining, Figaro is a prestigious posting and an opportunity simply too good to turn down. “Figaro is one of the longest running barbershops in Limerick and has been passed down three generations,” Marie explains. “Working alongside American Crew All Star legend Brian Hackett and absorbing some of his knowledge has been amazing. The shop is packed with unbelievably talented and

hard-working lads, it’s easy to see why it’s known as one of the best in Limerick.” Day-to-Day It didn’t take long for Marie to find her rhythm in Figaro. The atmosphere and clientele fitted perfectly with her own personality. Marie say: “I enjoy being on the shop floor every day, having the craic and cutting hair. Every so often you have a client that will want a complete restyle whether it be colour or cut. That’s what I love: making someone excited about changing their hair, watching the process of the change, and seeing the end result.” With her background in hairdressing, Marie is one of a growing number of barbers happy to take on more challenging cuts, which allows their imagination to come to the fore. Marie says she is “loving anything long at the moment. I just like having the creativity to put my own flair on haircuts. Also really digging 80s loose, undressed looks. Guys are more open to ideas now, I think.” Collections It was this creativity that caught our eye on Instagram when we spotted one of Marie’s collection images. Blending fashion and barbering, her shots catch your eye with their distinctive originality. “I do collections to keep myself creative and keep me excited about my work,” Marie says. “In my collections I have free range to express myself and throw all my ideas out there. It really pushes you to


“That’s what I love: making someone excited about changing their hair, watching the process of the change, and seeing the end result.”

THE IRISH SCENE "Irish barbers are really on top of their game right now. Hayden Cassidy is up there with the best barbers in the world in my opinion. It’s great to look up to a fellow female artist, she’s definitely one of my biggest inspirations." "Ryan Cullen has a big influence on me too. His work is always executed to a tee." "Johnny BaBa is doing his thing over in the UK – BarberBarber do some great collections. He started out originally in Figaro in Limerick too."

do your best work.” Her latest collection is another hit, with any of our older readers instantly recognising the trademark platform shoes, heavy make-up, and flamboyant clothing of 70s glam rock. It’s what inspired by Marie and combines masculine and feminine characteristics to great effect. She says: “I was really inspired by glam rock: artists such as Mötley Crüe, Def Leppard, and Kiss. I’m a huge fan of androgynous looks in general and David Bowie in my opinion really expressed this side of him through fashion and hair, constantly pushing boundaries and inspiring. In the last couple of years it has become more mainstream, I think, with the likes of Jeffree Star, Lady Gaga, and many others who represent gender fluid.” Future With the world at her feet, Marie is showing no signs of slowing down as move into 2018 and she has already planned the next step on her journey. She says: “I’m moving to Toronto this year, where I’m going to get new opporutnities, learn new techniques, and experience different working environments. I’m looking forward to getting the chance to work with different artists and new clients, that’s the exciting part for me. I’m looking forward to leaving my own Irish stamp on Canada.” We’re sure North America will love her distinctive style and if she picks up a few new tips and tricks from Canadian barbers hopefully she’ll one day return to the British Isles as one of the top barbers in the world. We look forward to checking back in with her soon.

@marierainsfordhair

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Lenny White

the dementia friendly barber

Lenny White is Northern Ireland’s, and possibly the world’s, first dementia friendly mobile barber, making an incredible difference in his community by providing personal grooming for gentlemen in care homes. He’s been featured by the likes of the BBC and in November 2017 Lenny won an award for Outstanding Contribution at the Northern Ireland Dementia Friendly Awards.

T

here’s massive communal value in what Lenny White offers, it brings back memories of old-school barbering for men living with dementia. Everything from the tunes to hot towels and even the smell of the lemon, mint and lavender colognes. Lenny says: “It’s a man going into a nursing home and creating a masculine setting for them, like they’re used to and they enjoy.” It all began when Lenny noticed that services in care homes tended to aimed towards female residents - from the atmosphere down to the decor. Lenny strives to provide a distinctly old-fashioned barbershop experience for all the men who come in for a haircut. With each nursing home he visits Lenny brings with him a touch of familiarity. He explains how much detail he puts into crafting the experience “they hear the music and smell the room sprayed with lemon cologne and a big barber pole in the corner, I

create the whole scene before they even came in.” He continues, “it brings all the men into the same room. There’s a feel as though they are in the barbershop, creating memories, talking about how their barbershop was, and who cut their hair, people in the war, everything! It opens up a lot of conversations, even with people who are normally quiet.” Giving up an eleven year career as a marketing and sales consultant, Lenny began learning to become a barber during the day and in the evenings he worked as a chef in a care home, where he gained first-hand experience with people living with dementia. Working with Radius Housing in Belfast Lenny began to learn more about dementia, he says “it gave me a bit knowledge into the effects of dementia, how it affects the relatives, how it affects the people involved and how they see things.” As difficult as it might be Lenny admits “It’s

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something I always knew I was going to do, I didn’t know it was going to pan out like this. It all fell into place very easily.” Lenny now travels all around Northern Ireland to around fifty care homes, working six days every week. Looking to the future, Lenny hopes to create a network of dementia friendly barbers. Going over to Denmark Lenny will seek to give barbers the skills to be able to open up to clients with dementia and understand how it affects each person. While the work can be challenging as Lenny admits “some clients take 40 minutes for a basic haircut, sometimes I’m walking about the corridor cutting peoples hair, there’s loads of different challenges, but overall it’s a good job. It’s rewarding.” It’s this sense of purpose that drives Lenny White to continue the work he does and hopefully he will be an inspiration to future barbers looking to do more in their community.


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Kan The Kansas - Tough…Rugged…and can dodge a bullet! Well, a slight exaggeration, but years ago in the old wild west, pioneers travelling in wagon trains were trying their best to cut a new life out for themselves in a desolate and uninhabited territory of America. The old abandoned gold mine (pictured below) is all part of the old wild west history where fortunes were made, dreams were shattered and lives were lost. Nowadays, creating character and atmosphere of a bygone era in your barber shop brings a warmth of nostalgia, intrigue and memories.

1920’s large shaving urn

Solid wood from the USA 100 years old!

Original artefacts from the past carry their own story that you can pass on to a new wide-eyed generation of customers – which is sure to create a buzz in your own unique barber shop!

Keep up to date with our latest posts on our Instagram page! @barbershoporiginals

Old original miners lamps

Available to buy from Barber Shop Originals . . . Keeping the history of the barbering trade alive. 60 | BarberNV Magazine


nsas www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk

Call us on - 01455 660 120

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Porters

Step-By-Step Beard Trim with Bora Esen

Step 1 Take the time out to consult with your client asking key questions like how they wear their beard, what look they are trying to achieve, and if they use any products to achieve their desired look.

Step 2

Step 3

Comb out the beard to see its true length.

Depending on your preferred method and the look you’re trying to achieve, start shaping the beard using scissors/clippers - we advise scissors for shaping the longer more natural formed beards and the clipper for a more defined and structured beard.

Step 4

Step 5

Make sure you blend the beard into sideburns and hair.

Shaping the moustache is just as important as the rest of the beard, Comb the ‘tache downwards and trim using mini-trimmers to just above the lip line.

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Step 6

Step 7

Moisturise the skin with a post shave lotion or anti bump gel on the cheeks and neck to close pores where the razor has been used.

Remove towel and apply shaving oil, gel, or cream to the cheeks and neck.

Step 8

Step 9

Start razor work on the cheeks making sure you stretch the skin taught, then move onto the neck. Depending on the aspired outcome repeat or those preferring a natural beard and neckline blend lightly with a clipper or mini trimmers.

Massage the chosen post-product into the beard working from the inside out. We recommend a beard balm for the shorter, stubble based beards and an oil for longer beards. This will help with any dryness & itchiness. Finish off with a moustache wax to give definition to the ‘tache.

Step 10 Moisturise the skin with a post shave lotion or anti-bump gel on the cheeks and neck to close pores where the razor has been used.

FINISHED LOOK

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Alan Findlay

Happy new year to all our readers and I hope everyone had a great time over the holidays resting and recharging the batteries in preparation for busy and exciting 2018 in the barbering world. We’ve delved deep into our bulging mail boxes to find the best questions for this article so a big fat thanks to everyone who sent them in. Don’t forget to give your shop name a shout out along with yourself and keep those questions coming.

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ASK ALAN? So down to business and first up is: Megan Reid, Birmingham I have customers who ask me for certain products like gel in their hair when I know that something else would be better. How can I get them to listen to me and trust my advice? AF: Well Megan this is very commonly placed scenario in barber shops and stems from customer habits and lack of product education. Anyone having a haircut pre-2010 were probably brought up with industrial blue hair gel or chip-pan fat red Dax wax as this is all that was predominately available at the time. Hair gel is full of water and as this has to evaporate out of the hair before it sets the style. It leaves the hair looking wet, crispy, and transparent which I think most would agree is not a good look. Heavy waxes like Dax are made from fats that are not water soluble and leave the hair in a poor state as you literally need to wash it out with fairy liquid. Another factor about hair and styling is that your hair structure has hydrogen bonds that relax when it’s wet (or with gel added) and only set the style when it’s dry and this is why we can create shape and form while blow-drying hair. Part of being a professional barber is giving your client the knowledge of how to get the best results whilst styling their hair. Modern hair products perform way better than your old granddad’s gels and waxes so offering to demonstrate this to your clients along with that little bit of education of how they work usually does the trick. Benjamin Holcomb, Oldham I’m proud of my work but when I take pictures on my iPhone it never looks as good as it does in real life. Should I invest in a good camera or pay someone to take pictures of my work? AF: Benjamin the key to good images is lighting and obviously a good camera. Most modern camera phones are more than capable of creating excellent pictures and iPhone’s latest ‘portrait setting’ on the 8 would rival the results you can get on most SLR cameras. Natural lighting is best do you have a spot near the shop windows? Can you shoot it outside? If this is not

possible you can buy a ring light fairly cheap on amazon. The bigger ones come with stands or I think you can even get them to fix to your phone too. Before shooting your image clean your lens, get a background that’s not too busy & contrasts the hair colour. Take the shot with a steady hand or use a stand and keep the head in the centre of the composition (shots taken while sitting in the barber chair tend not to turn out that great). Abdul Sivas, London Turkish barber has opened across the road from me and is charging half of what I charge for a haircut and beard trim. How do I keep my customers from going there? I’ve already lost some but some have come back because they quality was so poor. AF: Esteban, why are you even trying to compete with someone who values their craft so low? If you have to keep lowering your price to attract new customers two things are going to happen: First, your barbers will need to cut faster and cut corners with their cuts so that they can generate enough income which will inevitably make you lose customers in the long term as your shop standards will decrease and you will get a bad reputation. Second, you will attract customers who care more about price than the standard of their cut and you will end up in a never ending price war with other poor barbershops. Focus on producing the best haircuts and service you can and taking the appropriate time necessary for this and charge more money when you achieve it. Trust me you will have a much more loyal customer base and the best reputation in your area. Young people want a better service nowadays and don’t mind spending more time and money on their appearance. Think about it, most people probably spend more money parking their car coming for a haircut or buying their lunch than what gets spent in a conveyer belt barbers. Young people value how they look much, much more these days and spend ££££s on their clothes, why would they want to top it off with a cheapo £10 haircut? Well that’s all we have space for in this issue and hopefully those answers have helped you guys with those issues and we would love to hear back on how you all get on. Till the next time, happy barbering

af

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Blade Hairclub Wanna go hairclubbing? It’s the new hair sensation taking Soho by storm. You take one part hair salon, one part alcohol and you mix it together to create a cocktail of barbering perfection.

For clients who don’t usually enjoy the experience of getting their haircut, it’s the ideal way of turning a necessary act into a special one. Customers don’t need to reach for one of the perfectly curated cocktails if they don’t want to, there’s always Netflix for the less alcohol inclined. However, if you are a member of their exclusive Blade Hairclub, you’ll have anytime access to their exclusive bar, regardless of whether you’re getting your haircut or not. The whole concept is the brainchild of Stroo and Julia Olofsson, so we caught up with Stroo to ask him about their project. Tell us about the start of Blade Hairclub? It was an overnight success - five years in the making. It was a journey of organic discovery as well as actively trying to figure out how we want to go about this thing we call – hairclubbing. Can you describe the typical customer at Blade? Oh my - one word: Soho. We see a range from kids to senior citizens, from major public

66 | BarberNV Magazine

figures and celebs to Soho commuters or the LGBTQ community. Name a demographic - we’ve done their hair! What hair styles and trends have you been seeing most often recently? Bleeding colours seem to be on fire lately, but the appetite for perfect fades and sharp boys’ cuts never wanes in Soho! You have special events like Valentine’s Chocolate Hairclubbing, how do these events work? Let’s just say we’ll use any excuse to socialise, indulge and imbibe WHILE making people’s hair look good! Your Blade Hairclub membership is a unique selling point for the salon, how has that been received and how does it benefit the salon? Surprisingly well - we now have quite a long waiting list! It is a way to ‘cement’ the community we’ve built over time. Our members are the people who really get and enjoy what we’re trying to do with the hairdressing culture. Can you tell us about the team you’ve built at Blade? The Blade Team is much like a miniature sample of the famed London diversity. We’re a very intense environment so we’ve already had a couple

of ‘generations’ of stylists who went through the Blade roller coaster and decided to settle down and build families in less intense environments. It is ever-changing, but always handpicked to match the personality, passion, and the skills with our unique approach to the hairdressing culture. The bar seems to be as important a part of the Blade experience as the hair side, how does it fit in with the whole concept? Not only that it fits - it’s an integral element. Imagine a great house party - where does it always end up? In the kitchen! Same thing. What does the future hold for Blade, any plans to open another shop? *secretive smile* You never know!


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@phoneypony_barber

INSTAGRAM Showcase Tag @barbernvmagazine to feature your work in our next issue!

@hypebarbershop

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@rumbarber @phoneypony_barber

@hypebarbershop

@rumbarber

@ste_woolley @ste_woolley BarberNV Magazine | 69


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SEVENTEEN

Hair: Paco Lรณpez @ The Barber Shop by Paco Lรณpez Photographer: Ana Tortosa Stylism: Visori Fashionart MUA: Laura Meloni Models: Americo Ferreira, Sallon Mena, Saul Kilcullen, Eugeni Valazin

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Vitaliy Pimenov pimenthebarber

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Orion Collection Hair & Beard – Stephane Verniere Photography – Artifoto

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On The

Water Front

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Hair: Vivienne Howe and Paul Morgan Colour: Vivienne Howe Styling: Emma Lee Photography: Barry Makariou Products: The True Gent

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T R A I N I N G DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

12th Feb

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0998

14th Feb

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0998

19th Feb

2 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering (NVQ 2)

London School of Barbering

London

£1,540

0207 404 0998

25th Feb

1 Day

Wet Shaving Course

Mike Taylor Education

Andover

POA

01202 649100

26th Feb

1 Day

Shaving Course

Joseph Lanzante

Accrington

£195

01254 427575

4th March 1 Day

Fundamentals Course

Menspire Academy

St Albans

£216

01727 835612

5th March 2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0998

7th March 2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0998

12th March 2 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering (NVQ 2)

London School of Barbering

London

£1,540

0207 404 0998

22nd March 1 Day

Introduction to Barbering

Mike Taylor Education

Andover

POA

01202 649100

26th March 12 Weeks

Masters in Barbering

London School of Barbering

London

£5,550

0207 404 0998

26th March 2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0998

26th March 1 Day

Shaving Course

Joseph Lanzante

Accrington

£195

01254 427575

28th March 2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0998

Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering one day clipper cutting course

› Hot towel cut throat shaving one day course

› Barbering boot camp four day course

PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk

78 | BarberNV Magazine


Don’t

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otland!

Join us at The biggest Hair, Beauty&BarberingAward Show in Sc Sunday 16th September 2018 | Hilton Grand Ballroom, Glasgow

Entries now Open

With 30 titles to be won across a range of hair, beauty, aesthetics, barbering, make-up artistry, tattooing, and business categories you’re sure to find your chance to shine.

in association with

www.scottishhairandbeautyawards.com BarberNV Magazine | 79


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