BarberNV Issue 18 by Gallus Media

BARBER

BARBERNV ISSUE 18

BarberSociety Live Eighty8

Alan Beak e-Chair Barber Connect

SUMMER 2018

CONTENTS

I S S U E 18 News

Barber’s Post

e-Chair

Sexual Harassment

SHABA

Art by NZ

Fellowship

Alter Ego

International Barber Awards

BadGuy Brand

Barber Connect

Blue Beards Revenge

BBA

Alan Beak

Festival Barber

Barbering After Diagnosis

Products

Instagram Showcase

Editor’s Comment As always, Barber Connect brought the thunder, and we’ve brought you a round-up of the entire weekend’s proceedings. We had front row seats to the international stage, which has packed-

We have all the latest industry news and plenty of engaging features

out the entire weekend, and of course, there was the long-awaited

from across the UK including barbering after diagnosis with Kelly-Ann

return of Adee Phelan, which really got the crowds going. Alongside

Willis. Closer to home, Jamie Wilson, who you’ll have undoubtedly

Damien Diablo, Kyle Ross, Danny Robinson and Leah Cassidy there

seen in previous editions of BarberNV has opened up his own shop.

were plenty of other big names and even bigger cuts going down.

Open since June, BadGuy Brand is ready to lay the smackdown on

Sadly, in the light of #metoo and the Weinstein scandal, sexual

Glasgow.

harassment is more visible and ever-prevalent in society, and even

The BarberNV team and I are away to pack our bags and get ready

within the barbering industry. BarberNV spoke to Lesley MacBain,

for the Festival Barber in Italy, this September. Being able to see so

the owner of Mojo’s Kids & Gents about her experience of sexual

many world-class barbers cutting and teaching under the one castle

harassment throughout her career.

roof, it’s certainly not an event to miss!

Enjoy!

SHOWCASE

BHA 2017 Hair: Ross Charles Styling: Ross Charles Photography: David Charles

Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Head Writer Matthew McLaughlin | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Manager Kat Heron | Sales & Marketing Executive Megan Mowles Front Cover Hair: Alan Beak Models: Dylan Yau, Cameron Burke Photography: Marie Harkness Thanks Alan Beak, Barber1o1, Spaghetti’s Barber Shop, e-Chair, The Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, The Fellowship of British Hairdressing, the Barber Connect team, Tony Zelen and Natasha Nelen (Art by NZ), Jamie Wilson and everyone at BadGuy Brand, Alter Ego Italy, The Barber Post, Lesley MacBain, Kelly-Ann Willis, The British Barber Association and the Blue Beard’s Revenge team. Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

yesterday collection

By Rolando Sáez Sanhueza

Hairdresser, Art Direction, Stylist: Rolando Sáez Sanhueza Make-up: Janire López Styling Pro: Artwork Profesional Fashion Photographer: Joao Ngalia k. Models: Pablo R. Lopategui, Mikel Perez de Ulate y Laro Peña

I N D U S T R Y NEWS PAUL MAC DENMAN Brush brand Denman has announced hotshot Irish hair professional Paul Mac, @paulmacspecial on Instagram as the newest member of their Denman Global Collective Team. The Collective was launched as part of Denman’s 80th-anniversary celebrations. Bringing together members of the brand’s existing International Ambassador programme, encouraging members new and old to share their creativity and promote their collections. Paul, via his Instagram account, said: “What a start to my birthday, I’m so proud to become an ambassador and part of Denman’s Global Collective. It’s such an honour to represent the world’s best hairbrush brand.”

1o1 BARBERS On October 21, the International Barber Awards will see barbers from all over the world submitting their finest cuts to be in with a chance to be able to show their metal at the 1o1BARBERS organised event hosted in Nuremberg, Germany. The first qualifying round took place in Tirana, Albania on June 17, where the barbers demonstrated their talent by performing a fade and a hot towel shave. The details of the second round will be emailed to the barbering gladiators, before being announced on Facebook and other social media. 1o1BARBERS Chief Executive, Micha Birkhofer, said: “The second round will give entrants the chance to come to the casting nights, held in various locations, and bring their barbershop team to showcase their model, as well as their skills to qualify for the final on October 21.“

SMP

Global micropigmentation companies the Brandwood Clinic and the Finishing Touches Group have joined forces for a unique collaboration in education for the treatment. Agreeing that the most popular treatment, as requested by clients to their barbers and transplant surgeons is scalp micropigmentation (SMP). Sessions often cost practitioners £25 in consumables, where average industry charges are between £250-£300 per hour for the

treatment. Paul Clark of the Brandwood Clinic, who trained to be a practitioner after receiving SMP, said: “We began training with the aim to improve standards in the scalp industry. In our desire to develop further and offer a qualification that enabled our students to spread the gospel about SMP we had only one choice of partner. Finishing Touches Group’s ethics and practices have helped us to improve and jointly we believe that we offer a perfect combination of skills.”

GUY & BEARD The Glasgow-based start-up business, Guy & Beard, has won £75,000 and a business support package as part of Scottish EDGE - Scotland’s leading business competition for innovative, high-growth potential entrepreneurial talent. Founded by Arti Poddar and Usman Mohammed, Guy & Beard run high-quality barber shops out of converted shipping containers, with free parking and affordable prices. In under six months, Guy & Beard have opened three shops in Glasgow and are due to open a fourth soon. The business was one of twenty Scottish EDGE finalists who pitched their business ideas live at Stirling’s Macrobert Arts Centre on May 29 to a panel of business heavyweights. During the intense final, the judges deliberated over the various pitches before declaring 11 winners. Twenty-five businesses in total received funding of just under £1m as part of the

Scottish EDGE’s twelfth competition round, which launched in February of this year. Scottish EDGE, which looks to support Scotland’s innovative, high-growth potential entrepreneurial talent, received almost 250 applications for the current competition round. Guy & Beard Co-Founder, Usman Mohammed, said: “Launching Guy & Beard in Scotland will hopefully allow us the platform to encourage other entrepreneurs to set up their dream businesses.” Arti Poddar said: “The fact we’ve seen tremendous growth is a testament to the strength and loyalty of our wonderful team – without whom we wouldn’t have won Scottish Edge funding. We would like to congratulate all the winners of Scottish Edge Funding 2018.” Guy & Beard currently employs 12 full-time staff, and plan to launch their own affordable male grooming product range later this year.

I N D U S T R Y NEWS

BEAUTY AND THE BEAT Award-winning salon group and Scottish colour experts, Rainbow Room International, hosted a backstage popup salon for the second year running at TRNSMT festival in Glasgow, providing haircuts and styling to artists.

while female artists opted for braided hairstyles. Second weekend

First weekend

The second weekend saw another two fantastic days at TRNSMT Festival with the team styling band members from The Temperance Movement, Alabama 3 and La Fontaines. Many of the artists requested haircut tidy ups with the Alabama 3 band members looking for their hair to be taken in shorter at the sides with the emphasis on their long hair on top.

Friday, June 29 and Sunday, July 1 the Rainbow Room International team styled the hair of Fatherson, singer, Tom Grennan, as well as the lead guitarist from Wolf Alice and Liam Gallagher’s tour manager. This first weekend saw male artists get short, choppy cuts and cropped graduation,

The weekend had a very chilled-out and relaxed vibe but by the time the headliners took to the stage, the atmosphere was electric. The team had the pleasure of styling the hair of the stars and were able to meet some big names, including the incredible Brian May from Queen.

Rainbow Room International has previously provided styling services at high profile events including the MOBOs, the Scottish BAFTAs, the Scottish Style Awards and T in the Park.

TIC TAC Italian family-owned confectionery company Ferrero Foodservice is helping the barbering and beauty industry boost customers experience with the launch of Pillow Packs. A warm welcome from reception, service with a smile and even complimentary mints make a big difference to customers. New research found that despite the fact consumers were happy to receive complimentary mints, 60% believe a bowl of open mints at reception looked dated and unhygienic. Ferrero’s Pillow Pack is the fresh way to provide consumers with complimentary mints. Encased in a convenient and hygienic format. Ferrero’s Foodservice Channel Operations Manager, Zareen Deboo, said: “When it comes to consumer perception, tic tac is the little thing that makes a big difference to a business.” To complement the tic tac launch, salons, barber shops and spas are also able to order additional products from the Ferrero Foodservice website. www.ferrerofoodservice.com/uk

LEAH DURRANT It was a weekend of celebrations for the Leah Durrant Hair Salon & Beauty Re: Treat team, as they held a surprise event for Salon CoDirector, Andrew Durrant, to mark his importance and Co-Director, Leah Durrant, buying him out. The event was to commemorate Andrew’s hard work throughout the years and the fantastic things he has done for the community. Although Leah has now bought Andrew out, he will still be working in the salon two days a week. Owner and Director of Leah Durrant Hair Salon & Beauty Re: Treat, Leah Durrant, said: “Andrew first opened the salon in September 1973, and has since become the longest-running salon and only award-winning salon in Chertsey. We were delighted to throw the surprise party and we’re so glad he and all the guests who attended had a fantastic time. We’re excited to see what the future holds for our Leah Durrant salon!” The event held at Ohana’s Bistro, a local café opposite the salon, was a fantastic success with staff old and new that had worked with Andrew from the beginning, old and new clients, along with family members, and local bloggers. There was a steel band, photo booth and sweet cart, as well as t-shirts with Andrew on them for all the staff to wear and a lovely guest book to sign.

BUSINESS RATE REFORM Many would suggest, business rates are an unfair and outdated tax on brick and mortar businesses. Amid rising labour costs and falling consumer confidence, high street retailers pay over £7bn in business rates each year, whereas online retailers pay only £457m between them. While the number of barber shops and beauty salons are on the rise, the disappearance of so many household names from the high street means footfall in town centres has dropped by 17% over the last decade. However, the Chancellor has ruled out fundamental reform on business rates that the NHF has long been calling for. In a letter to MPs Mr Hammond said there was “no consensus on an alternative base” for calculating rates bills, but he did acknowledge that the government needs “to find a better way of taxing the digital economy”. NHF Chief Executive, Hilary Hall, said: “Salons and barber shops are the backbone of the high

street. We urge the government to come up with a business tax system which is fair to both brick and mortar premises and online retailers.” The Chair of the Treasury Select Committee, Nicky Morgan, announced that business rates would come under further scrutiny ahead of the autumn budget, saying the committee was “increasingly concerned with the financial burden that business rates are placing on high street businesses.”

THE REVOLUTION BEGINS HERE

www.e-chair.com

#WorkAnytimeAnywhere #YourRules The UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first platform for barbers and salons to advertise their chairs or rooms to rent and allowing users to search and book a suitable space to work

Shop Owners Simplifies chair rental Innovate your business Expand your customer base Offer additional services Increase your revenue

Chair Renters Be your own boss Work the hours to suit you See what Barbershops are renting in your area

www.e-chair.com

#WorkAnyTimeAnywhere #YourRules

Adam Sloan, CEO of MHFED e-Chair has opened the world of chair hire to the 21st century. Fast, efficient and pleasing on the eye, a lot like our members and their clients, things won't be the same after this! Alan Findlay, Owner, Rebel Rebel As a Salon owner, the ease of use is what I really love about e-Chair. Whether you're booking or letting, the simplicity of e-Chair makes it a pleasant experience and so much quicker. Everyone will love this! Sam Wall, Barber e-Chair is awesome, I just can't believe it's taken till now to do this! So much easier than searching for chairs. This will be a game changer for the industry!

SH A BA Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BARBERNV This year marks the eighth edition of the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, in association with Andis, Wahl, Joseph Lazante and many more industry leaders. The ceremony, held on September 16 at the Glasgow Hilton, will bring together the biggest and brightest stars in the Scottish beauty industry’s premiere event. With over 100,000 votes cast to decide the finalists, it’s safe to say the eyes of the Scottish hair and beauty industry are upon SHABA. After all, it’s the premiere night in the industry, as hundreds of tastemakers from around the UK are set to travel to Glasgow to be a part of the glitz and glamour. Entrants the length and breadth of Scotland

SALON can now stop wearing out the edge of their barber chairs, as the moment so many have tentatively waited for – the shortlist for the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards 2018 is here! Our panel of judges will use their wealth of experience to discern who deserves to reign triumphant in the each of the 30 categories. They will observe the quality and consistency of work, so reputations will not precede you. The ceremony will bring over 800 of the best in the industry to celebrate, mingle and network. This year’s incarnation promises to be the biggest yet, as we prep ourselves for a decade of SHABA. Tickets are still available for Scotland’s most attended hair and beauty event, get your tickets quickly and we’ll look forward to seeing all of you there.

We’ve assembled our most discerning panel of judges yet, who are prepared to select this year’s champions – from barbers and beauticians to salons and interiors. Nothing will escape their gaze, ensuring the recipient of the winner’s plaque truly is Scotland’s finest.

ast year Simon Shaw attended the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards as a guest, and was presented the inaugural Icon Award for an individual who attains true legendary status within the industry. Simon has helped Wahl UK become the gold standard of barbering companies. As Wahl’s Global Artistic Director, Simon heads a team of educators providing world-class barbering education, and has even launched his own range of academy clippers.

Simon Shaw

Phil B Jarman

ringing a wealth of experience to the table, and to top it off Mr Jarmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a local boy! Born in Port Glasgow, Phil has travelled the world with his scissors holstered, settling down south where he is now the proprietor of Carlo & Co. in Cambridgeshire. A stickler for standards, Phil can spot a great haircut at 20 paces so this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s barbers will need to be at their best to take the gold. Still learning every day, Phil believes himself to be in the 30th year of his apprenticeship, so no one will better understand the trials and tribulations of being a modern barber.

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A A Goodluck to all of the finalists this year! H H S S B & ir

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V N ER Best Wet Shave B R

Thomson - Orbit Smoke Barbers BA Charley Kostas Nivamidis - Barbarossa Barber Usman Mohammed - Guy & Beard Ltd Best Apprentice Barber Ahmad Drammen, Angela J Barbering Blair Turnbull, Urban Hair & Beauty Bruce Baillie, Huntsman Charlie Thompson, Orbit Smoke Gavin Elpinstone, The Mens Emporium Joshua Reid, Orbit Smoke Exauce Imbu, Rebel Rebel Best Male Barber Douglas Welch - Barbarossa Barbers Davie Walker - Davie the Barber Rafal Kwiatkowski - Rebel Rebel Kyle Ross - Huntsman Sam Massey - Mr Blonde Gary Lewis - Who’s Next Taylor Ritche - Rag and Bone Barbershop Matthew O Rourke - Rebel Rebel Jefferson Delima - Jefferson’s Barbers Tony Forrest - Tony’s Gentlemans Barber Best Female Barber Amber Loy -Rebel Hedz Angela Dickson - Orbit Smoke

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V N ER Angela Todd - Angela J BarberingB AgoR Cerise Sharkey - Hair We B Deneka Greensmith - Rag & Bone Barbershop Laurie Cowie - Huntsman Leah Francis Duffin - Pulse Barber Room Leigh Nimmo - Barber & Groom Stephanie Fleming - Davie the Barber

Best Male Stylist Scott Murray - Urban Hair & Beauty Highhouse Craig Duncan - Craig Duncan Hair Paul Paterson - Ishi Salon Colin McAndrew - Medusa Salon Stockbridge Sam Lorimer - Rebel Hedz Gordon Cruickshank - Hair & Body Mechanics Elgin Brian (Leo) McCalum - Roar Hair & Beauty Glasgow Best Female Stylist Marlene Lamont - Urban Hair & Beauty Alana Howie - Modello Amy Johnstone - The Regent Corner Ashley Nimmo - Allure Hair & Beauty Charlene McGowan - Ultimate Look Chloe Hendren - Rebel Rebel Janelle Wilson - Elle Cheveux Hair & Beauty Chloe Burness - Lux Hairdressing Faye Baxter - The Hair Lab

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THROWBACK SHABA17

A Look Back at

Shaba17

Winners

BEST WET SHAVE SPONSORED BY WAHL UK Phil Simons Phunk U, East Kilbride

BEST APPRENTICE BARBER SPONSORED BY BARBERNV Charley Thomson Orbit Smoke Barbers, Edinburgh

BEST MALE BARBER SPONSORED BY BARBERNV Grant Carr Mr Blonde, Glasgow

THROWBACK SHABA17

BEST FEMALE BARBER SPONSORED BY WAHL UK Gemma Willock-Smith Rebel Rebel Barbers, Glasgow

BEST APPRENTICE STYLIST SPONSORED BY SALONNV Dionne Brisland Rebel Rebel, Glasgow

BEST BARBER SHOP SPONSORED BY HAIR & BEAUTY WORLD Stag Barber Co, Edinburgh

Congra tula tion s to all s! r e n in W g in r e b r a B e th

The Fellowship heads out on tour with

Project X

Expert in all things avant-garde, Robert Masciave is the latest hairdresser to lend his expertise to the Project X team.

Robert Masciave is renowned as one of hairdressing’s most accomplished avantgarde artists, with an incredibly unique approach to hairdressing that is fuelled by

influences, demonstrating the breadth of ideas available from a simple starting point, and the power of researching outside the box.

a truly creative mindset.

After talking through their ideas, the team got hands-on and created their looks on models and head blocks, getting the chance to be mentored through each step with the expert help of Robert.

It was this innovative insight into hairdressing that the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Project X team had the chance to tap into, on their recent mentoring day with Robert. Ahead of the day, the team was briefed to research tribes. Robert set them the task of mood-boarding their own take on a tribe of their choosing, encouraging them to think outside of the box and not be too literal with their responses. As well as creating a mood-board of research, he also asked the team to plan a look, which they would then create on the day. During their mentor day, Robert showed-off work from his own avant-garde collections, demonstrating how he brings those looks to life in the hair. He explained the importance of telling a story through hair, and how important research is for getting a message and concept across. After this demonstration, it was over to the Project X team to present their research and mood-boards. Inspirations ranged from girl-gangs to natural

Team member Ben Brazzo from Malcolm Tina Barker salon, says: “Learning about the creative process was the most important part of the day for me. I learnt that creativity is just the beginning and that development is key – being able to take an idea and translate it into hair is a whole separate skill and something which I discovered a lot more about today.” Poonam Mehmi from Rush Hair & Beauty agreed, adding: “I learnt so much about how mood-boards have to tell a story, and that your story should then be told in the hair you produce. Robert is an amazing hairdresser and it was amazing to receive in-depth knowledge about how he creates his amazing looks. Thank you so much, Kai and Robert, for a perfect day of learning.” Instagram - @fellowshiphair Facebook - facebook.com/fellowshiphair

I NTERNATIONAL B ARBER AWARDS

Kevin Boon, winner of IBA 2017 competition

he World Cup is over and done with, the NV team set our sights on a competition just as heralded, the International Barber Awards. The global barbering summit will see barbers the world over submitting their finest cuts to be in with a chance to be able to show their metal at the 1o1BARBERS organised event hosted in Nuremberg, Germany. The first qualifying round took place in Tirana, Albania on June 17, where the hopefuls demonstrated their talent by performing a fade and a hot towel shave. The details of the second round will be emailed to the barbering gladiators, before being announced on Facebook and other social media. 1o1BARBERS Chief Executive, Micha Birkhofer, said: “The second round will give entrants the chance to come to the casting nights, held in various locations, and bring their barber shop team to showcase their model, as well as their skills to qualify for the final on October 21. “Whether you are an employee, a barber shop owner – everyone who devotes themselves with a passion for detail on male customers, and wants to show others why they are the best in their field, are invited to participate!”

The NV team are the once again the media partners for the International Barber Awards for their fourth event. Readers will be able to keep up-to-date with all the news in the pages of the upcoming editions of BarberNV. Being crowned the winner can offer a great many opportunities in a young barber’s career. We featured last year’s champion Kevin Boon on the cover of BarberNV Issue 14. Kevin was asked how the competition has affected his notoriety, he said: “I received congratulations from all over the world and so much media attention, from television, newspapers, and

online. It felt like an amazing experience and I met so many great people. Of course, it also generated some good opportunities for me, and I am very grateful for the support I have received from 1o1BARBERS. Today, I am a member of the 1o1BARBERS Academy, which means a lot to me.” On top of the title, and obvious bragging rights the winner will receive €10,000 has their grand prize. Registration has now sadly closed, but for more information, you can visit www. international-barber-awards.com

October 21/22, 2018

BARBER CONNECT 2018

eath, taxes, and a successful Barber Connect. One of the few certainties in life is that Barber Connect will be an absolute blast and yet again this has been proven. The biggest barbering show in the UK took place in Telford at the start of June, with barbers travelling from far and wide to be a part of the festivities. BarberNV was there to soak up the atmosphere across the two days and interact first hand with all our fantastic subscribers. We welcomed a number of top barbers onto the BarberNV stand to demonstrate their skills including Tonino the Master Barber at Spaghetti’s in Italy, with whom we are covering the upcoming Festival Barber in Italy, Kyle Ross the International Barber Awards UK winner, Autism Barbers Assemble founder James Williams, and Mister Robinson’s barber Damien Diablo. We had a prime view of the International Stage which was packed all weekend long, none more so than when the lads from Menspire were showing their industry-leading talent. The long-awaited return of Adee Phelan to the barbering fold was another one that got the crowds in. His Sknhead London art team featuring the likes of Danny Robinson and Hayden Cassidy showed off what the new range that we featured in last month’s issue can do and the audience lapped it up.

The Wahl Stage in the main room saw a number of performances each day from the Wahl Art Team plus special guests. It was an incredible opportunity to learn from Simon Shaw, Alan Beak, and many more which almost all of the attendees took. Among the exhibitors across the two halls were many friends of BarberNV including the Festival Barber team of course, here to spread the word about their breathtaking event coming up in September. The Armour to Barber team were raising awareness for their campaign to get more ex-armed forces members into the trade alongside their partners at The Bluebeards Revenge. Matakki was as busy as always and they certainly earned their crown as kings of customer service by coming to the rescue of one barber who lost his justpurchased scissors in the Barber Connect hubbub and replaced them free of charge. Barber Connect has always been as much about the sideshows surrounding it than the event itself and this year was no different. It was an opportunity for thousands of barbers who had only communicated with one another via social media to come together, solidify friendships, and talk shop. There was certainly a roaring trade for the bars of Telford that weekend! Till next year…

Damien Diablo cutting at the BarberNV stand at Barber Connect

BARBER EQUIPMENT CENTRE BRINGS YOU

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KYLE ROSS Photography: RichardFrew, @richardfrewphoto Styling: Hanz De Fuko

2018 has been another fantastic year for the entrants of the BBA British Barber of the Year competition. The number of entrants has doubled since 2017 and the quality of the initial photographs made the judges’ decision incredibly difficult, and surely nail-biting for those waiting to hear back.

inalists spent a great deal of time preparing for the live finals, which was plain to see with the commitment shown in securing the ideal model and demonstrating their creativity at the live event. Performing a flattop challenge in the morning, and then taking part in the semi-finals in the afternoon; it was a close and hard-fought competition in some cases with just one point separating combatants.

displaying the techniques and creative ideas required to hold this title.

The tension and excitement were palpable throughout the day both outside and inside the BBA Boxing Ring held at Barber UK, NEC on Monday May 20. With Britain’s finest barbering talents battling it out with a flattop challenge and semifinals. The final became a battle between Jay Kizito Byrne and Mathew Guerin.

“I wish to extend congratulations to all the finalists that were selected and encourage them to come back bigger and better next year, British barbering is growing on the world map, as the talent, we are producing exemplary.”

British Barber Association Judge, Gary Machin, said: “We knew this was going to be a tough but exciting final, you could feel the tension build throughout the day and when the guys were preparing for the final and creating their signature cut and style in just 30 minutes, the adrenaline was certainly flowing in the boxing ring!”

It came down to the presentation, choice of model and executing the final look for me. The winner displayed both planning and purpose in his quest to obtain the title, with outstanding skills shown and a great choice his of models used and the styles presented. The winners precision and perfection on completion was a key point in the final decision.

Jay not only won the coveted BBA Belt and title of BBA British Barber of the Year, but also takes away the grand prize of £2,000 and £500 worth of BBA male grooming products. For more information on BBA competitions email competitions@britishbarbers.com

The winner Jay Kizito Byrne of Dog House Barbers, Birmingham impressed the judges on all ten criteria. BBA British Barber of the Year 2018, Jay Kizito Byrne, said: “I felt a sense of relief, after coming so close last year I wasn’t leaving Barber UK without that belt! All my hard work, planning and preparation showed in my work. My models were all perfectly picked for each round and I felt I stood out in every round and deserved the win.” Andis Judge, Baldy said: “It’s always a great honour to judge the BBA Barber of the Year, as the bar gets raised every year by the approach and mindset the barbers have, the skill levels are unbelievable. This year the judging was so tight between, but for me, Jay stood out, he went away after the previous year did his homework, and it showed, his model selection was fantastic and the styles were executed perfectly and his finishing was fantastic, it’s a great completion and a well-deserved winner. I look forward to next year, let’s see who brings it to the ring!” Andis Judge, Kevin Vorely said: “It was an honour to be a member of the judging team, and the talent on show in the finals was evident. The final itself was both tense and close, with both barbers excelling,

Jay Kitzo Byrne with the winner’s belt and cheque

The judging panel

British Barbers Association finds tomorrow’s stars through the National Student Barber competition. The British Barbers’ Association National Student Barber of the Year 2018 finalist presentation took place on Monday May 20 in the BBA Boxing ring at the Barber UK event, NEC. Following on from a photo submission competition, which saw over 320 entries, covering three categories from colleges and training providers throughout the UK, the competition was judged by industry experts Gary Machin, Erik Lander and Sam Prior. The standard of submissions was extremely high and the judges had a tough job, with them taking several days to deliberate over who the three finalists for each category would be. The quality of entrants is a testament to the high quality of education and dedication of the tutors and training establishments they train in. But, the overall winners in each category are…

DANIEL AUSTIN Oracle Training – Doncaster National Student Barber of the Year 2018 Winner: Precision, Creative Cut and Finish ISAAC WILSON Barnfield College National Student Barber of the Year 2018 Winner: Facial Hair Design LEAH DALEY Calderdale College National Student Barber of the Year 2018 Winner: Hair Cut and Finish

BBA Judge, Erik Lander said:

Lynda Whitehorn, VTCT, said: “VTCT is very proud to sponsor the BBA Student Barber competition because, striving to win a nationally recognised completion such as this, improves technical skill. The BBA National Student Barber Competition is directly responsible for improving the standard of skill of young barbers entering the industry.” Not only did the winners receive a trophy and the title of BBA National Student Barber of the Year 2018 but they also took home the prize money of £500, and an industry goody bag containing Andis Clippers and BBA Male Grooming products. For more information on the range of BBA, competitions email competitions@britishbarbers.com

“It’s a great learning curve and I would encourage all student barbers to showcase their work through competitions and if you are not successful keep going, never give up!”

Festival Barber T

he Festival Barber is housed in the Castello Di Santa Severa, that’s right, not only will the event welcome some of the biggest and best names in the global barbering industry, the day itself is held inside the turrets, courtyard and centuries old chambers of the medieval castle, looming tall over the Mediterranean coast. As the official media partners of Festival Barber, the NV team will be there to keep you informed every step of the way through social media - along with the likes of Alan Beak, Leah Hayden Cassidy, Josh Lamonaca, and Julius Caesar all on the same stage, it’s set to be a great day and one hell of a learning experience. Festival Barber organiser, Caesar, said: “The barber festival is a totally unique event never seen before. Eight trainers on the same stage, all

together, on the same day, has never seen each other. “ It will be a day that will be remembered in the world of barbering for years to come. There aren’t any other words... come and visit." The barbering festival isn’t just for barbers however, with the national and international boom in gent’s grooming, the experience would be invaluable for any hairdressers or hair professionals looking to expand their portfolio and learn from some of the best in the industry. Kevin Luchmun will be the host for the day, personally we think you need to bare witness to it on September 9 at the Castello Di Santa Severa, just north of Rome. Tickets for the event are only 129 Euros and you can get them by emailing us at: contact@salonnv.co.uk

Alan Beak - Barber Birdman - Leah Hayden Cassidy Jarred Barbers Josh Lamonaca - Josh O.P. - Julius CVESAR

Hosted by Kevin Luchmun

9th Of September 2018 Castello Di Santa Severa

A showcase of the best barbers from Europe & U.S.A. Big Exposition of the massive brand new trends and new techniques Created and Organised by

For information on tickets email: festivalbarber@gmail.com

PRODUCTENV Y

Editor’s Choice

EDITOR’ S COMMENT This month we thought we’d give you a selection of absolute staples both new and established to wet your wicks. And we know it’s pretty uniform now for barbers to be tattooed, and the healing process can be a royal pain, so we’ve got you covered here as well!

Dragon’s Blood Foam Dragon’s Blood Foam helps to stop bleeding and to seal pores holding in the newly applied pigments. Soap-free, the foam contains Aloe Vera, Allantoin with a calming action and the natural extract of Dragon’s Blood (Ecocert).

Wolfsbane A deep base of old-growth woods, a trinity of fine musks, petitgrain with resinous tobacco qualities, a leathery tone topped with a light high note of bruised neroli and the whisper of a fine gin, neat. Wolfsbane is all this and more. $145 - 50ml philandry.men

£14 + VAT - 200ml Finishingtouchesgroup.com

Huge Original Antique Wooden Razor A large antique-style wooden razor which is over a meter long. To purchase, Call 01455 553 558 £450

Layrite No. 9 Aftershave A barber shop favourite, the bay rum aftershave cools and refreshes the skin right after shaving. £10.95 Newmen.co.uk

www.barbershoporiginals.co.uk

PRODUCTENVY

Burban Strong Gel If you’re looking for a product that can endure hurricane force winds, then look no further. Just throw the Strong Gel through your hair, then you’re prepared for everything the day has in-store for you. £12.79 Sallybeauty.co.uk

Meraki Linen Dew Shampoo Get that gritty, textured look in your styles that works great with a blow-dry. £18 trouva.com

Andis Fade Brush The soft bristles of the Andis Fade Brush make it perfect for skin fades, as well as for cleaning clipper blades. Nylon bristles gently removing hair so you can check your fade every step of the way. £2.34 coolblades.co.uk

Akito Scissors Essence (lefty) scissors Crafted from the finest 440c Japanese steel to create balance and incredible precision for fine and technical work. £130 Akitoscissors.com

PRODUCTENV Y

Grooming

Men-u Skin Refresh Gel The Men-u matt skin refresh gel removes excess oil that contributes to blocked pores and breakouts while toning and tightening the skin. £11.50 Themodernman.co.uk

Captain Fawcett Mo Wax & Moustache Comb Set This beautifully crafted fine toothed folding pocket comb is just the ticket for the grooming, maintenance and styling of one’s soup strainer. Ideal when used in conjunction with the Captain’s very own world-renowned mo’ wax. £19 Captainfawcett.com

Neal & Wolf

Pan Drwal x Adam Szulc Steam Punk Pomade The Steam Punk collab pomade is inspired by Victorian machinery and heavy metal music. With a tight hold and once set on the hair Steam Punk has an incredible natural sheen with a herbal aroma. 70 PLN - 150g Pandrwal.pl

The complete threein-one shampoo, shower gel and conditioner provides skin with essential moisture and hair with natural shine. Meanwhile, the Shape Pliable Paste gives you the best strong and flexible hold for shorter hair.

£20.70 www.nealandwolf.com

CORDLESS DETAILER

Introducing the NEW Cordless Detailer as part of the Wahl 5 Star Series - the specialist range of powerful, dynamic clippers and trimmers created to bring state of the art technology right to your barbershop or salon. EXTENDED WIDE RANGE DETAILING

UNIQUE ADJUSTABLE TAPER LEVER ENABLES TRIMMING, BLENDING AND TAPERING OF THE HAIRLINE

EXTRA WIDE Tï&#x161;ºSHAPED BLADES

PRODUCE FASTER CUTTING RESULTS THAN STANDARD TRIMMER BLADES ENABLING SUPER CLOSE TRIMMING, OUTLINES AND ACCURATE DETAIL WORK

CORDLESS

TO PROVIDE FLEXIBILITY AND FREEDOM OF USE WHEREVER YOU ARE

PRODUCTENVY

American Crew Beard Balm A beard-softening balm that offers conditioning benefits and shines while being flexible enough for styling. The velvety texture tames facial hair while smoothing to create a touchable finish. The balm’s soft texture allows for easy application, helping you achieve the perfect look every time. £13.50 Feelunique.com

Oil Can Grooming Angels Shave Beard Oil The American oak and citrus fragrance with rapeseed, argan and coconut, is guaranteed to tame, strengthen and condition your beard. £14.40 barberblades.com

Clubman Reserve Whiskey Woods Finest Powder Furniture & Equipment Unlike the scumbags behind it, Fiber Gel is alcohol-free. Diffuse dry into long, curly hair for perfectly formed curls. £6 - 255g

Gray O Dude Pomade Gray ‘O’ Dude is a Water Based Pomade made in Thailand. pomadethai.com

PRODUCTENV Y

Furniture & Equipment

Collexia Hair dryer Salon Services Knightsbridge Barber Chair The eye-catching modern design of the new tan-coloured Knightsbridge barber chair is the perfect statement for any barber shop! The reversible footrest, chrome accents and steel reinforced frame will make this chair a modern classic.

There’s more to a Collexia than just power and performance! When blow-drying the last thing you need is for your hair dryer to be creating more work, so the designers at Collexia created a dryer that’s lightweight, ergonomic, comfortable, it even works faster. Salonsdirect.com £80 + VAT

£699 (ex-VAT) salon-services.com

Tornado Premier Gold - Red Introducing the ever popular Tornado Barber Chair, now available in a vintage red with beautiful white piping. Sure to create a statement in any barber shop! £875 + VAT salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

Dark Stag DSO Black and Gold | 6.5” and 7” We all know the quality of Japanese steel but the DSO Black and Gold scissors give long-lasting precision with a silky smooth action. The finger rest is also detachable for finger freedom. £67.50 Salon-services.com

- UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest showroom of barber equipment - Call to request your FREE catalogue for the full range

THE TORNADO www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk TEL: 01455 553 558

10am to 5pm, 19th august 2018

Tickets Are available through eventbright

Contact Ray FOR tickets - 07516 347 484

The Barber’s Post Fusion@360 event is gearing up to take Glasgow by storm on Sunday, August 19, at one of Glasgow’s most stunning venues Saint Luke’s & The Winged Ox. The event, set to be a day of education and inspiration boasts some of the biggest names dominating the UK Barbering scene right now, from HardGrind to Medusa, to international educators and award-winning barbers and hair professionals. Comparing alongside the host Raymond Simons and some of the other barbers and hairdressers will be Mucktaru Kargbo, better known as MK. The presentation from Joseph Lazante is sure to be a highlight, as micro scalp pigmentation (MSP) has come more and more demanded it would be short-sighted to ignore this surge in popularity and the benefits

it can bring to any barbers or other hair professionals. We could reeloff some figures and facts on micro scalp pigmentation, but it is best left to the expert himself, and we wouldn’t want to spoil anything.

LINE-UP

The venue, Saint Luke’s & The Winged Ox is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Glasgow. After lying barren for years the building was restored to its former glory in 2013, where it once again brings joy to Glasgow. Featuring a multi-purpose music venue, bar and kitchen to serve the community from inside the stunningly restored original features.

11am - Group 2.

It should go without saying, but we’ll say it regardless, if you aren’t going to Fusion@360 then you’ll be missing out on a truly unique event, one that’s sure to be talked about for quite some time.

3pm - Group 5

For tickets contact Raymond Simons - 07516347484

T BA

saint luke’s & the winged ox 17 bain street, glasgow g402jz

THE BARBER’S POST

10am - Group 1 Gaz Tedaschi, Ross Carter, Charley Thompson, Theo Petrocelli, Sean Swiss Sweeney, Rafal Lewandowski. Damian Owen, Emily LeMay, Angela Dickson, Lewis Gomes, Sam Arthur (mod barber) George Lang. 12pm. Joseph Lanzante presentation. 1pm - Group 3 Jac Ludlow, Ross Miller (Medusa) Robert John Grosvenor, James Robert,Mcaulay, Rhys Green, Hade Sandever. 2pm - Group 4 Hardgrinds Vincent Quinn and Tommy McGuckin, Jack Robinson Pullen,Tony J Haresighn, Chris Moon, Chris Wade. Alisha Storrie, James Williams, Darren Simons, Marlene Lamont, AtilaThe Barber, Yucel Olmezkaya. 4pm - Group 6 Paul Mac, Jamie Hamilton, Adam Berry, Phil Simons (more TBA)

Photography: Chris Kendall Hair: bareknucklebarber

Sexual Harassment Time For Change

Mirella Draper, Owner of London Street Barber who has a wealth of barbering experience and pulls no punches in tackling the problematic aspects of that most sacred of institutions, the barber shop. Much has been said in the past year to highlight gendered injustice, in the wake of Weinstein and the momentum built by the #metoo campaign, women are more open to speaking out about sexual harassment. Barbering is an unquestionably maledominated industry, and as Mirella knows, sexist or harassing attitudes are too often tolerated, not spoken of and sadly, kept hush. The toxic masculine attitudes that led to the necessity of #metoo are outdated, and with wider society being more inclusive, sexually charged comments and behaviours should no longer be branded as ‘banter’ but stamped out. Mirella told us how damaging these attitudes can be to young women entering the industry: “It does make you view barbering in a different light, I had to harden up. At the end of the day, the biggest fear is you’re left in the shop alone on Saturday night, and there’s one guy who comes in late and wanted to be alone in the shop with me that used to terrify me.” That said, as men, we have a responsibility to give women the space to be able to speak out about sexual harassment and as men, we need to shut up and listen. “Barbering is a man’s world, so you’ve got to be a strong woman to take the crap that’s given to us, but if you’re not then it can destroy you; it can put you off being in the trade completely. Talk to your family, don’t bottle it up, that’s when you will say I don’t want to do this any more. I’ve seen people give up their jobs because

they can’t handle it.” Our culture has long allowed men to harass women openly without real consequence and without the rest of us bringing these pervasive attitudes to reckon. Or worse yet, employers being afraid of challenging customer attitudes for fear of negative social media reviews, rather than protecting their staff. Mirella recounted one such experience: “When I was training, I was washing this guy’s hair and he ran his hand up my legs, he tried to… So, I just turned the shower and chucked it in his face. He was a very good customer of this place, so he put a complaint in. I got in so much trouble for doing it, they almost sacked me. I told the

You’ve got to be a strong woman to take the crap… owner he touched me and she said I don’t believe you and she said I asked for it. “How many women do you know that won’t say anything? Yeah take a job, but my god when it comes to customers saying you’ve got a nice rack, walking out the door and smacking your ass… For the young women that are coming into our industry, I would definitely say, as soon as it happens you need to go and speak to the owner of the shop and say I’m not here to be subjected to this, can you have a quiet word with the customer. They need to put the wellbeing of the staff first!” It’s a different era, with a new lexicon and challenges, but toxic attitudes prevail and opportunists will continuously find ways to turn the blame towards victims. While attitudes may not have changed, in a post-Weinstein world where more

and more men are exposed for their behaviours, it only seeks to highlight just how prevalent harassment is. Not just in barbering of course, but in wider society. “They just see you as a sexual object, but you’re not, you’re worth a lot more. You hear them saying you shouldn’t be doing this, you should be in the kitchen or bringing your children up. In the 80s and early 90s, we weren’t believed because the managers cared about reputation and running the business.” As more women find the courage to come forward about their experiences with sexual harassment and assault in the workplace, it’s hard to imagine how many still bite their tongues, a thought which is truly unsettling. And while public shamings of harassment may make a new generation of men reflect on their treatment of women, attitudes need a dramatic shift, starting with how businesses view the potential customer backlash. “How do you do it without upsetting the customer? With social media they then go on and trash your business, that’s what the manager is worried about, but if you have faith in your staff, the biggest hurdle is they don’t believe the staff. They can’t brush it under the carpet. “It never changed if you’re a woman in this job if you have big boobs and perky backside they will always comment on it. They think they’re doing no harm and sometimes it is just banter, but the 30 years I’ve been doing it I’ve had so many propositions. “The worst is when they look at you and say I think you’re a naughty girl... I’m 46-years-old, I still get it; it’s not as bad, but there are guys half my age and come in saying the same thing. These people have no respect they don’t understand or care these sleazy comments can make you feel physically sick.”

Clearly, we need change.

Hair: Lesley Morgan-Macbain Photographer: Dave Brown Models: Jared Wallace & Kyle Morgan Styling: Cassandra Rose Morgan

Hair: Nardia Allen Photographer: Dave Brown Models: Aisha Allen Styling: Cassandra Rose Morgan

ART by NZ BarberNV caught up with Natasha Zelen, the Glaswegian artist behind Art by NZ, ahead of the launch of her inaugural exhibition. Realistically, her work doesn’t need an introduction, it should be well known to the barbering community, not the least because we featured her art in the pages of BarberNV Issue 16, but because Natasha has justly earned renown for her unique style and presentation.

www.artby nz.co.uk

hen we first met Natasha before she and Tony opened Tony’s Gentleman’s Barber Shop for a few last minute touches, it was clear to see the nerves and excitement of hosting her very first exhibition had yet to fully settle in. Obvious concerns and anxieties must have been plaguing her the entire day in the run-up to doors opening at 7 pm. However, having sold her sets to barbers the length and breadth of the globe, including the US and Australia, conquering her Dumbarton exhibition was a walk in the park for the artist. Natasha first thrust herself onto the art stage after her husband Tony, who tonight is wearing striking pink suede loafers, asked her to create designs for the wall of his barber shop, producing her first of many designs Close Shave. From the all-important first commission, Natasha began selling her unique, barber and pinup themed art online through Etsy. And, despite believing nothing would come of it, Art by NZ has since metamorphosised into a global hit, as Natasha told us: “I’ve posted my sets to a lot of places, I’m actually surprised. “I’ve posted them to 42 states in America; I’ve only got so many to go until I’ve sent my prints to every single state. Every time I get a new state I edit the wee note on my phone!” With the stage set and the clock striking a little after 7 pm, guests began ebbing through the door, with some as you’d imagine being fashionably late. However, all were present to admire the full force of Natasha’s artistic vision and see every collection she has drawn to date, displayed in the perfect environment.

Tony and resident barber Frank were on-hand for the evening, performing a few promotional haircuts and beard shape-ups before they could enjoy a drink or two and celebrate Natasha’s achievements. The concept of holding an exhibition for her art had been brewing in the back of her mind for some time, with very little stopping her. That said, the evening proved to be extremely fruitful, with one punter walking off with a signed A2 print and many more enamoured by Natasha’s 16 original pieces lining the back wall of the stylish Dumbarton barber shop.

“Having the sponsors made organising the exhibition more exciting. We talked about having an exhibition for months and I hadny actually settled on a date or time, eventually, I was like ‘let’s just do it.” And, the evening being graciously sponsored and supplied by Eden Mill and Tunnock’s definitely ensured guests were continuously well fed and topped up. Even the aptly named shop next door, Mr Kebab, dropped by a munchie box at the end of the night, making sure for a very filling end to the night’s proceedings. We hope Natasha will consider exhibiting her collections again in the future, not the least because of her gracious hosting, her bright and relaxed mood and getting to see all the sets of her prints, some in A2 for the first time has been an experience we’d love to share again.

@tonys_barbers

Hair: Stefano Nizzi, Grooming for Men ambassador for Alter Ego Italy Photography: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

Alter Ego Italy presents Geek Chic Thanks to Stranger Things, Marvelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s silver screen money-makers and Star Wars being a contemporary IP again, geek culture is, even if only ironically, pushing its way to the front of the fashion-forward queue. Every decade has had its own version of the geek, so thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an endless pool of influence to draw fashion and style ideas from. All being well-and-good, Alter Ego Italy presented us with a step-by-step for a striking undercut style, with a textured centre parting coupled with asymmetry in the fringe creates a discerning bowl cut for the fashion-conscious nerd.

1. Create a rounded undercut.

2. Use your fingers to create the layered shape.

3. Repeat on the opposite side.

4. Use your comb and scissors to enhance the layering.

5. Blend and finish with clippers.

6. On the top, make a section running parallel to the previous one.

Styling - Apply Hasty Too Volume Primer and blow-dry smooth, dress with Grooming for Men Brillantina for a glossy finish. - Apply Hasty Too Vo-lux-ious Mousse for body and volume and blow-dry. Finish with Grooming for Men Working Paste for definition.

7. Cut following the layering.

8. Create a centre parting.

9. Follow the cutting line below with slight graduation.

10. Blow-dry hair allowing it to fall naturally.

11. Cut the fringe creating slight asymmetry.

12. Soften the shape with texturising scissors and personalise the hairline.

For more information on Alter Ego Italy:

www.sweetsquared.com/spotlight-on-alterego

BAD GUY BRAND 427 Alexandra Parade, Glasgow

amie Wilson, the owner and founder of Badguy Brand, opened his barber shop in June this year to rapturous applause. If you’re a regular reader you’ll no doubt have seen Jamie featured in previous editions of BarberNV, covering his working with Scottish wrestling company Insane Championship Wrestling. Now, away from his previous stable, Badguy Brand is ready to lay the smackdown on Glasgow’s barbering scene. Ordained with memorabilia, everything in Jamie’s world melds his twin passions of barbering, and of course, wrestling. Even down to the BadGuy Brand products, where on his Etsy page, you can see just how deeply the sport is ingrained into the Badguy Brand. If it wasn’t obvious from the puns, the photos in this article and previous articles where he has featured, wrestling and 80s pop culture are woven deeply into Jamie’s brand, even before the shop. His homemade products are packaged with Arnie in his iconic Terminator 2 leathers and shotgun, with names like Macho Mud face and body wash, and Stone Cold cedarwood beard oil. The last time we caught up with Jamie he was cutting hair backstage at ICW’s Square Go, at Glasgow’s now sadly deceased O2 ABC. So, of course, we had to ask whether Jamie would continue his work with the ICW. “Yeah, I’m back in with them this weekend for the Shug’s House Party,” Jamie said. “So, I’ve been doing a promotion with them this week, if folk have tickets and come in then they’re getting 10% discount. It’s press week this week, and I had a lot of the boys booked in because of how busy it is.” We gleaned from their Facebook posts that Badguy Brand is playing the heel of the barbering scene. When we asked Jamie, he laughed and smiled to himself before telling us: “Kinda, I was talking with the boys about it the other night. It’s that marketing aspect, it’s helped working so closely with wrestlers for so long because it’s helped me embrace the gimmick. And it’s called BadGuy Brand, the posts should be a bit cheeky, they should be a bit wide and I wouldn’t be matching the brand if I’m like “oh yeah, come and book in…’ they have to be wide. “Things feel a little bit gentrified and homogenised, as everyone is getting each other business which is good, but everyone ends up looking the same, they have the same business model going forward. It’s cool, and it works but I’m stuck in my way of doing things. You know I like 80s action movies, I like wrestling, let’s use that as our marketing.”

Despite the success and adulation, anyone who has opened their own business will tell you of the ulcerinducing stress. Not only this, but Jamie decided to open his shop while in the middle of planning his wedding! He told us: “It was just funny because in the couple of months it took to actually get the shop; I ended up opening the shop a month before I got married. So, as if I didn’t have enough stress on my plate I thought ‘why don’t I just jump in now?’ “It kind of helped deal with the stress of both if that makes sense? I couldn’t really get too stressed about the shop or the wedding, because I had both of them happening at the same time. And, I’ve kind of breezed past the hard bits now, so I’m like ‘oh cool the shop’s open, sweet.’ “And, as soon as word got out that I was opening a shop a few of the boys that I had worked with previously asked if they could come too, and I said ‘okay, cool.’ I didn’t want to have the intention of stealing staff, but they came to me and I wasn’t going to knock-back staff who I know and trust already, and when I know the quality of their work already.” Having just opened BadGuy Brand, with eyes cast towards the horizon Jamie already has aspirational plans for where to take the brand. As he told BarberNV: “I want the BadGuy Brand to be the focal point, not me or anyone else cutting. I have ideas of franchising it, so if one of the boys wanted to leave elsewhere and wanted to keep the brand and the clientele. So I’d be building up a big faction like NWO! “I don’t think barber shops do that much, there’s a couple like HardGrind and Rebel, Rebel, but there’s few and far between for the number of barber shops there are.”

I want the BadGuy Brand to be the focal point, not me or anyone else cutting.

With his involvement with ICW, we asked Jamie what the chances were of him chopping locks at the WWE next, and he said: “Weirdly enough it’s possible now because so many of my friends are working there. Talking to a few of the lads there, cracking a couple of jokes like ‘oh do you need a barber there?’ And they’ve actually been mentioning fighting my case, so you know by their word it’s only a matter of time!” No doubt you be seeing more of Jamie Wilson and the BadGuy Brand in the future, and we honestly can’t wait to continue to see the brand grow.

How to cut and style curly hair for men – collar-length curls BLUE BEARDS REVENGE STEP-BY-STEP Premium men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge has teamed up with award-winning barber and charity founder Tom Chapman to give you expert advice on how to cut and style long curly locks to be proud of. Men with curly hair can often be found desperately trying to iron away their God-given gift; they just long for super straight styles! But the chance to have a healthy head of ringlets is something to be celebrated – just look at the joy Kit Harrington’s locks have brought to the world! Tom says: “I’ve been told by many stylists over the years that they are scared of cutting curly hair! Maybe this is because training for curly hair is often limited in the barbershop, especially when it’s longer; or maybe it is due to the fashions in their area. Either way, once you get used to working with curly hair it can open up so many new opportunities, styles and techniques that are not achievable in straight hair.”

How to cut collar-length curly hair in the barbershop

• Start by washing the hair with The Bluebeards Revenge Shampoo and Conditioner. This ensures any previous styling products and excess oils are removed from the hair for best results. • Use The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Paste as a prestyling product to help you manage the curls.

• Put in a block graduation to remove excess weight from the hair.

• Start by putting in a profile parting from the front to the nape. • Then put in a zigzag section from the profile parting to the back of the ears.

• Create a radial parting to separate the front and the back of the hair. Elevate the hair at a “T” to the parting and continue to cut to the desired length.

• Cut the hair to the desired length at the back. When cutting long curly hair, always remember to leave a little extra length to accommodate the natural curl and bounce of the hair.

• Follow your guide length around to the front on both sides, point-cutting as you go to add texture. • In front of the ears, over direct the hair backwards to maintain a balanced length around the face.

• Release the top of the hair and cut it to match the desired length at the back.

• While the hair is wet, use twist cutting to remove further weight. • Blow-dry the hair with a diffuser on a medium heat. A diffuser gives a more natural finish and accentuates the curls.

• Finally, scrunch The Bluebeards Revenge Pomade into the curls for added volume, texture and hold.

Final Results...

Styling long hair at home is all about making the most of pre-styling products that make curls easier to handle. If you can, leave your hair to dry naturally as this will accentuate the curls. If not, invest in a hairdryer and a diffuser. The diffuser will help to manage the frizz that often comes with curly hair. • Start by washing your hair with The Bluebeards Revenge Shampoo and Conditioner. • Towel dry your hair and apply The Bluebeards Revenge Sea Salt Spray as a pre-styling product. Comb the spray through your hair from the roots to the tips. • Blow-dry your hair with a diffuser on a medium heat to remove frizz and activate the sea salt spray’s properties. Direct your hair backwards as you do this to keep the curls out of your face. • To add extra volume, texture and hold, scrunch a small amount of The Bluebeards Revenge Pomade in to the ends of the hair. For more expert hairstyling tips and tricks from The Bluebeards Revenge, visit BluebeardsTV on YouTube!

Hair: Ross Charles Styling: Ross Charles Photography: David Charles

Alan Beak There are few names in British barbering that are as illustrious or require no introductions quite like Alan Beak, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re honoured to have his work grace our cover mount once again. We caught up with Alan and spoke about the RUGER brand, his meteoric rise in the industry and what lies in store for us in 2019. Alan doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t strike as a man gagged by the weight of holding such industry prestige, however, allowing his work to speak where words do no justice.

Alan is a man of depth, his passion for barbering running deep, as will many reading his words. His status within the industry offers a lot in terms of education. Not only where his successes come from, but how success is actually achieved, and how even in the face of near-celebrity status, locally or otherwise, you can and should remain humble. Never losing track of where you want to be, or who you want to be. At the point of publication of this issue of BarberNV, Alan will have completed the final date on his RUGER. Spotlight tour. The Spotlight tour was designed to allow young barbers and hairdressers to show the dexterity of their technical skill, and collaborate with state of the art photography, allowing younger hair professionals to be pushed towards their full potential. RUGER.’s Spotlight tour has already been to Glasgow, Birmingham, London, Newcastle and Manchester, before one final date in Cardiff at the end of July. And of course, you’ll get a chance to see Alan in action at Festival Barber in Italy on September 9.

NV: How has 2018 been and what are your plans for the rest of the year? AB: As always this year has been a busy one, bigger than last year but not as big as we predict for 2019! On a personal level, my family is growing, at the rate, I’m going I’ll be opening a new barber shop just for the kids. And on a professional level we take each working day and educational event as they come, we love what we do and people see this and like to book us which is great. We have taken bookings for education and show work right up to the end of next year so right now we will be organising those trips, LA, Canada, Brazil, New York just to name a few. NV: How was the RUGER. spotlight tour received? AB: The tour was incredible, making money was never the key element with the tour, the goal was simply to help other barbers pursue a career that was more professional and fulfilling. In all honesty, it was conducting a photo shoot that really propelled my career, so we wanted to provide the opportunity for others and hoped it would do the same for them. NV: How difficult was it to set everything up? AB: You’d be very surprised actually, the team, to make sure each day runs smoothly consists of around eight people, educators, photographers, videographers, van drivers, admin and editing. Then once they have been managed there are the participants to deal with, not just before the event but then ongoing afterwards to make sure everybody is happy with their final images, and to make sure they use them to make certain our main goal is achieved. It’s pretty much a full-time job of its own. NV: How was the spotlight tour stop in Glasgow? AB: Glasgow was one of our favourite dates in the tour, everybody there came with the same mindset, to learn and get the most out of the day, and the images that came from Glasgow showed how diverse the industry is and how broad the range of talent there is. The venues were all photography studios, which was really important for us to throw participants into a new environment and put them out of their comfort zone. NV: What are your favourite styles right now?

AB: At the moment I’m all about low maintenance, soft and distressed, like a messy crop, longer or shorter, combined with shorter sides. Whether we like it or not the skin fade is going nowhere! It’s clean, short and sharp, people love it for a reason, and it’s been more than a fad this time around. It’s never been as technical and smooth, and it’s here for an indefinite amount of time. For the first few years

of me cutting hair I didn’t use clippers, it was all scissors and comb and it’s so refreshing to go back to those styles, our foundation is very traditional and classical, so I love to combine a simple classical layer with a soft and subtle taper, combining all elements of hairdressing. NV: What are the styles you think will take off in autumn, winter 2018/19?

AB: We use our Instagram as a modern-day look-book, which in turn means people tend to ask for what they see on your page, and mostly I post the work I think is most ‘in’ - well in my eyes anyway. Looks are still complicated to create but more simplistic to look at. As we get toward colder weather I do enjoy it because clients tend to grow out their hair which is nice to put the clippers down and give the scissors so real use. NV: Where did you get your passion for the industry? AB: Ok, so when I was young I loved having my hair cut, everything about the experience was amazing! I was in awe of the guys cutting my hair, the smell of the barber shop and mostly the way it made me feel. I still remember those feelings now, and this made me think, I want to be the person responsible for making other people feel that way. The fact that I’m a perfectionist, and ambitious just made everything else fall into place. I cut hair because I love to, my mind is constantly going crazy and cutting hair is cathartic for me, it’s the only thing that controls the voices. NV: The RUGER brand has seen an incredible rise in becoming a stand-out in the industry. If you were to give yourself advice when you were first starting out, what would you say? AB: Don’t do it, haha no I’m only joking! I’d just warn myself of the hard work that was to come; I think if I would have expected the hardships I would have dealt with them better. There are many wolves and snakes in our industry, and it’s easy to be used and manipulated by them for their own personal

Models: Dylan Yau, Cameron Burke Photography: Marie Harkness

gain. I have fallen victim to a few of them, being naive and having nothing but love for barbering, people couldn’t wait to take advantage of this, and unfortunately, I found out the hard way after I got shafted, and not in a good way! So, I’ve learned to take care of myself. It’s like on a plane, when the safety instructions read ‘in case of loss in cabin pressure, put on your own oxygen mask before anybody else’, I’ve found this is important in life, if you spend time helping others and bending over backwards for them you can suffocate, and I’m not about dying on the job… not yet anyway.

Having all this to tend to, four businesses, each totally different, 12 staff members, one being a needy little brother, and a growing family at home can all get a bit much. There have been times I was about to say I’m done, that’s it, enough is enough, I had a good run, I didn’t do bad, I’ve had one today actually. But, then I calm down, breathe, recalibrate and deliver, a SAS motto. I’m lucky to have an amazing wife, she keeps me in check, she’s my biggest fan, and the best looking one too.

NV: A lot of barber shops are making and branding their own products, just as RUGER have. How important was this in developing the brand?

AB: In this respect, I’m not practising what I preach, although all the books I’m reading at the moment tend to tell me the same advice, and I’m trying to follow their directions on dealing with the stress of it all. Breathe, number one, take time out, prioritise what’s important to you, I’m a list maker me, I have three or four notepads, different sizes. I brainstorm, I make lists, I actually make lists of the lists I need to do! Once I have a job list or a goal list, I try to work on one of them at a time until it’s done. And, as soon as it’s completed I make a new one. I always find this gets things done.

AB: It’s all about building the brand and its another avenue to go down, merchandise in the form of products is a great way to increase revenue and adds a more professional touch. We’ve been trying all sorts of different merchandise, we have things made like candles, organic soaps, key-rings, clothing, but we never sell anything, we always just give them away, and being totally honest I’m a shit businessman. I’m terrible, we would have our clients comment on a candle and I just threw them their way, I’m never fuelled by money, I just like to spread the brand even if it does cost us a fortune. NV: What do you think of your almost celebrity status? AB: I think it’s insane, I can’t go anywhere without being spotted or recognised, my wife finds it strange still, but she won’t moan, she gets free food all the time from it. I enjoy it and welcome it, its the kind of status that we as barbers should receive, we’re awesome, we work our bollocks off, we spend fortunes on education, our job constant evolves, and we have to be the same. We’re always changing tools and investing in them, we might as well be in the medical industry. Bonez the Goat gave a speech once on how we’re like doctors and I stand by him on that. Now we just need paying the same. NV: Because a lot can be lost now. With social media being as integral to self-branding as your books, do you feel it’s easy to get lost in that? AB: Oh 100% it’s scary how much time you can spend on social media, although it is crazy important for your brand, and yourself. I used to be on it constantly, always looking at what other people were doing, where in the world they were going and what styles they were smashing out. But, again I learned to focus on us and us only! There’s a reason why racehorses wear blinkers when racing if they don’t they get startled and affected by the horses running next to them and fall to the ground. But, with the blinkers on they focus on what’s in front of them and don’t give a toss what’s happening around them, always focusing on the finish line and not what others are doing. NV: Are there any downsides to how much of a household name you have become in the industry? AB: Absolutely! I’m not an ignorant person at all, it personally affects me if I don’t get back to everybody, including messages on all social media outlets and there are lots of them (Reece has just introduced me to a new one called Grindr that’s doing pretty well at the moment). But messages and phone calls add up, I get lost in returning phone calls, I lose track of time because of the volume of people I’m talking to. And it’s not a bad thing to be in this position, but being in high demand there’s always somebody who wants something from you, needs something else, and you’re given a deadline.

NV: What advice do you have for people who want to follow you in that respect?

It’s important to follow your own path. It’s good to take bits from other people, collectively my work comes from about 10 different origins, and I’m proud to say that, you can’t see somebody do an incredible style and not try to recreate it if you like it and want to challenge yourself. That’s how we learn. But, emulating everything that another person or shop does just doesn’t show any individuality, so my advice here is just yourself, do what you like, be driven by the need to progress and be successful in ways other than being rich or having loads of followers. Find success in the form of happiness with your work. I’m yet to feel successful because I feel I’ll always need to work on my skillset, I’ll always consider myself as a student.

NV: What bands/ artists are currently on your playlists? AB: I really love music, it enhances my mood no matter what, and I think it plays a massive role in keeping morale high in the shop, it’s a whole new atmosphere with music, let’s say the ambience. The first thing I do when I get in the shop is put the music on! It depends on my mood what goes on, but I do love a good sing-along so at the moment we’re on an 80s and 90s playlists, well until that little emo Reece comes in and bangs on Panic at the Disco! or something. Nah, we all love Kaytranada, who’s a Canadian DJ, Kings of Leon, Mo-town and Mariah Carey makes an appearance once a week. NV: What films have you seen this year and what can you recommend? AB: You can’t beat a good comedy, anything with Jim Carey or Will Ferrel and I’m sold, I watched Step Brothers in a hotel room in Russia recently next to a snoring Jewish midget (Liam Twist), and that kills me every time. I also recently watched the Defiant Ones, a four-part series about Dr Dre, not because I’m a lover of gangster rap, but because I like him and his whole lease on life. He didn’t give a shit about what anyone else was doing, he had a goal, and a lot like the horses he had something in mind and followed his dream and let’s just say now he’s flossing. Will Smith is another one, I love his positivity and charisma in everything he does! I’ll finish on Will Smith’s favourite quote… “Set your life on fire, seek those who fan your flames.” Do it, and for the love of God, have fun whilst at work, every day is better with a few laughs. Thanks for taking the time to read, if you’ve enjoyed it my name’s Alan Beak, if not then I’m the other smaller, but the better-looking brother. Peace, and to the RUGER. family, I love you all!

Barbering After Diagnosis It shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone that barbering is a physically demanding trade, not only that but one that commands pride and passion in equal amounts. So, we pose the question: what would you do if you were told you should quit barbering to find another profession?

t shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone that barbering is a physically demanding trade, not only that but one that commands pride and passion in equal amounts. So, we pose the question: what would you do if you were told you should quit barbering to found another profession? This was the exact situation Kelly-Ann Willis, the owner of West End and Bisley barber shop found herself in. Kelly-Ann Willis owns a very local business, catering for all her customers with the utmost care. However, around four months ago she was diagnosed with sciatica, a condition characterised by chronic pain, tingling, numbness, or weakness in the legs – originating in the lower back, running down the large sciatic nerve. Kelly-Ann described to BarberNV what first went through her mind when she heard the diagnosis. She said: “I was only diagnosed approx 13 weeks ago! My first thought was being completely worried about how I was going to carry on working and pay my bills. Then came the thought of my health and the constant pain I was in, and how long it could go on for, it was terrible. One doctor told me the pain will take nine-months to ease myself if it would at all. I was very fed up, confused, and low, an A&E nurse and a doctor told me to consider changing my career, which was a blow. It crossed

mind over the years but actually hearing it was a shock! The fear of losing the business I had worked so hard to build and letting my costumers down that pushed me forward.” Not only is she a barber, but Kelly-Ann is also a mother, one job is enough without having to juggle both simultaneously. As Kelly-Ann herself says: “There are probably million-andone things I do at work I just do automatically, without even thinking! End the day, close up, drive to pick my daughter up, go home and cook tea, there’s always some housework to be done... you know all the usual stuff! Oh and usually I’ll be helping my daughter with homework at some stage...” The burning question we had for Kelly-Ann was if there were any methods of lessening the pain posed by sciatica. She said: “I’m still trying to work out what I can do at work to prevent and lessen symptoms. I brought a cutting stool, which I’ve never really used before. It is difficult when you’re chatting and trying to create a masterpiece. Barbers do the same actions for hours and hours, for years and years, my advice is to look after yourselves. Get an anti-fatigue mat, use a cutting stool, and rest in the staff room when on a lunch break… If you’re lucky enough to get one!” Another worry is how your loyal patrons may

react to the news; the truth is most people should have no issue or gripes at all, after all, if you work yourself into the ground you won’t be around to cut hair! Thankfully Kelly-Ann has had incredibly supportive customers, as she told us: “My clients have been so understanding, but I’ve told them all about what was wrong, as I had to take a week off and was forced to close as I was working alone. I just worked mornings for a few weeks as that’s all I could physically do! My clients were amazing and helpful; because I kept them up to date when I would next be open it worked. If I had to close for a longer period of time I’m sure I would have lost a few of them as people can’t wait forever. They want and need their hair cut, but as soon as I opened up normal hours again the clients were there waiting. It’s a wonderful job in that way. This has been the most difficult obstacle I’ve overcome. I wouldn’t wish it on anybody, especially when you’re selfemployed and have to work. “There were times where I just felt like crying! I was in absolute agony, but had a duty of care to my customers. I have a big responsibility and I try to remind myself of that every day. Thankfully I’ve listened to doctors, the A&E nurses and clients. I’ve done what I was told, no lifting, no mowing grass, I’ve made small changes at work, do my stretches and now I’m pretty much free of pain.”

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Cap W

e chatted to John Wright, Director and founder of BEC sister company to SEC and barbershoporiginals, about why he has chosen such an ominous name for their new Barber chair “The Capone”, for many of us it immediately brings to mind the infamous American gangster Al Capone, which, for some people isn’t necessarily the image they want to promote for their business but as John went on to explain, as one of the most notable figures in American history Capone brought much more than a ruthless approach to drugs and violence he also showed exceptional business skills. Born to illegal immigrants in one of the most down trodden areas of Brooklyn, New York he grew into one of the most recognisable faces in American history. The uncertainty of the UK economy during this period of political wrangling over Brexit means that every business entrepreneur needs to recognise their own position in the industry and seize upon the opportunities within their local market. This is exactly what happened during the prohibition period, Capone recognised a business opportunity

“

and he set about using his skills (albeit far too ruthless) to meet the demand of the local people. When we asked John for his thoughts on the issues facing the industry, we were encouraged to hear him use the words like enthusiasm, determination, a real focused approach and how proud Barbers are of their traditional skills, he went on to explain how the demand for original Barber Shop memorabilia has grown and how he is receiving enquiries from around the globe for the original, antique items he has on display in the showroom. Recently he has had Barbers visiting BEC from all over Europe, the Far East and America fascinated by the collection and history. At industry events Barbers have flocked to the stand many to reminisce at the sight of the original items others to buy a little bit of that nostalgia for their own Barber Shop. One thing is for sure, John and the team at BEC remain committed to ensure the history of British barbering and their tools is not lost, but available for all to view or buy to decorate their barber shop for the next customer who walks through the door to enjoy and question.

John ’s To p T ip

The great thing about adding original pieces to your shop is that you know you will be different to joe blogs down the road. Want to put your own stamp on your barber shop? I recommend just buying three or four items to start with then add a few more each month as your budget allows? Transforming your shop with original pieces of barbering nostalgia is sure to an interesting story for your local press

“

Keep up to date with our latest posts on our @barbershoporiginals Instagram page!

pone www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk Call us on - 01455 553 558

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T R A I N I N G DATES Date

Duration

Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

20 Aug

9 weeks

Diploma in Barbering (NVQ 2)

LSOB

London

£3,980

0207 404 0998

10 Sept

9 weeks

Diploma in Barbering (NVQ 2)

LSOB

London /Manchester £3,980

0207 404 0998

10 Sept

28 Weeks PT Diploma in Barbering (NVQ 2)

LSOB

London/Manchester £3,980

0207 404 0998

20 Aug

3 weeks

Master’s in Barbering (NVQ 3)

LSOB

Farringdon

0207 404 0998

5th Aug

One Day

Menspire Academics

Menspire Academy

154 Hatfield Road £271

44 1727 835 612

6th Aug

One Day

Foundations Of Layering

Menspire Academy

154 Hatfield Road £323.99

44 1727 835 612

5th Sept

Five Days

Discovery Course

Menspire Academy

154 Hatfield Road

23rd Sept

One week

Academic Course

Menspire Academy

154 Hatfield Road £1,400.92

1st Aug

One week

Clipper Fundamentals

London School of Barbering

Farringdon

£940

0207 404 0998

20th Aug

One week

Clipper Fundamentals

London School of Barbering

Farringdon

£940

0207 404 0998

6th Sept

One week

Clipper Fundamentals

London School of Barbering

Farringdon

£940

0207 404 0998

3rd Sept

10 weeks

Advanced Barbering Diploma

Total Barber Academy

Shoreditch LDN £3,750

24th Sept

10 weeks

Advanced Barbering Diploma

Total Barber Academy

Shoreditch LDN

22nd Oct

10 weeks

Advanced Barbering Diploma

Total Barber Academy

Shoreditch LDN £3,750

3rd Sept

26 weeks

LEVEL 2 NVQ VTCT

Total Barber Academy

Shoreditch LDN £3,950

24th Sept

26 weeks

LEVEL 2 NVQ VTCT

Total Barber Academy

Shoreditch LDN £3,950

22nd Oct

26 weeks

LEVEL 2 NVQ VTCT

Total Barber Academy

Shoreditch LDN £3,950

3rd Sept

5 days

The Barber Refresher Course

Alan D Hairdressing Education

London

£600

3rd Sept

5 days

The Barber Refresher Course

Alan D Hairdressing Education

I pswich

£600

£1,840

£970.79

£3,750

1727 835 612

Goodluck finalists!

SHABA#18

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