Inspiring UK & Ireland Barbering success
Issue 9
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News | Products | EVENTS | Features | EDUCATION BarberNV Magazine | 1
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Welcome Simon Ritchie
Editor
With more and more international barbers joining the BarberNV family, we thought it about time we took you on a trip around the whole barbering universe, with trips to Cuba, the United States, and even the south pole and space in this issue!
Y
ou can expect to see more global content in coming issues as we start to look further afield for people and stories that can inspire us back here in the UK. Thanks to the internet and social media, the earth has never been more connected so it’s impossible to ignore the fantastic barbering talent that exists all over our planet. We’re encouraging anyone, from anywhere, to get in touch and share their story and their passion for our wonderful trade. Of course we’re still going to bring you the biggest interviews and features from here in Britain and Ireland, with possibly the biggest name in our industry, Simon Shaw, giving us the lowdown on his career in this issue’s big interview. We have a world exclusive as the Young Feds unveil the latest addition to their line-up, and let’s just say he’s some craic! They are one of the most exciting artistic teams in the nation and we fully believe their founder Adam Sloan when he says their new member will take them to
the next level. Exciting times. You’ll find out who he is later in the issue, but for now we’ll say that we’re so impressed by him his work is on both our front and back covers, a BarberNV first! As fans of the boxing here at NVHQ, we’re excited to feature the stylist of none other than the greatest pound-for-pound boxer of all time, the undefeated Floyd Mayweather. His barber Jackie Starr is truly an inspiration for all barbers looking to rise to the top, and Larry the Barber Man spoke with her to unearth her story. This is just a flavour of what’s to come in the pages ahead, with more content than you could shake an Andis Pro Alloy at. The last thing to remember is to keep tagging @BarberNVMagazine in your Instagram shots to feature in our Insta Showcase – we believe the quality of your camera shouldn’t disqualify you from showing off your work, so even if you just have an iPhone that’s fine. We look forward to seeing what you’ve got.
Simon Ritchie Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil | Telesales Executive Nicole Mclelland Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Alan Findlay, Rob & Dan Rix, Larry the Barber Man, Sid Sottung | Thanks Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, B TheAgency, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Barber Council, British Barbers’ Association, British Master Barbers, The MHFed, City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board, Pickle PR, Larry the Barber Man, JAM Marketing, Pall Mall Barbers, Jiggi the Barber Tom Chapman, The Lions Barber Collective, Alan Findlay, Barber Equipment Centre, Barberology, The Bluebeards Revenge, Sid Sottung, Lock Stock and Barrel, Fudge, Joseph Lanzante, OSMO, Wahl UK, Great British Barbering Academy, Simon Shaw, Wahl, National Science Foundation, The Young Feds, Josh Lamonaca, Tariq Howes, Danny Robinson, Josh Lamonaca, Adam Sloan, Jackie Starr, Porters, Bora Esen, London School of Barbering, Dr Nestor, Bosun’s Barbers, King Koby, Chris Foster, Dan Rix, Rob Rix, Stacey McCabe, Natalie Allen, Dayna Cakebread. Cover Image Hair Paul Mac Special Photographer Dark Hearts Photography, Model Timmy Carey, Stylist Beyond Man,MUA Nicole Lynch Pictures Shutterstock | Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.
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Cadilla M, one amazing chair for a multitude of purposes.
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News INDUSTRY NEWS
06
industry bodies
08
Events
Features 18
SIMON SHAW
32 SPACE & ANTARCTICA
THE FINAL FRONTIERS
36 YOUNG FEDS
ARTISTIC TEAM
PALL MALL cage warriors
10
42 JACKIE STARR
PARLIAMENT shave
12
44 ALAN FINDLAY
SCOTLAND’S BEST
14
BARBER 2017
46 BARBERSHOP OF THE
MONTH PORTERS
48 BEHIND THE BRAND: BEC
LIONS POP-UP
16
FASHION WEEK
56
Products
60 SHOWCASE 72 CUBA’S BARBER’S ALLEY
Education 40 APPRENTICES
editor’s choice
24
52 LARRY VISITS LSB
GROOMING
26
70 TOM CHAPMAN
FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT 28 combs & brushes 30 APPAREL
31
STEP-BY-STEP 76 sid sottung step-by-step 78 ROB RIX
Contents Issue 9
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Top student? The British Barbers’ Association have launched their National Student Barber of the Year Competition for 2017. Open to all BBA members who are currently undertaking a formally accredited S/NVQ Level 2 or Level 3 men’s hairdressing or barbering qualification, it’s a great chance to test your skills against barbers at a similar stage in their development. The competition is divided into three categories dependent on the level you are currently studying so entrants won’t be placed up against competitors who have had significantly more education than them. Find out more at britishbarbers.com
Fancy face fuzz? You may have seen our coverage of the British Beard and Moustache Championship in issue eight, well now hosts The Liverbeards are teaming up with Braw Beard Oils to put on Scotland’s 1st Beard and Moustache Championships. The Braw Beard and Moustache Championships 2017 will be held at the trendy Drygate Brewery in Glasgow on Saturday 18th February 2017, and as well as the competition itself it will feature live music from band The King Lot. It’s sure to be a great night out for everyone involved with a party atmosphere and some fantastic facial hair on show. If you want to go along you can get your ticket from brawbmc.bigcartel.com.
fellowship men’s hair The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s first Men’s Hair Workshop of 2017 took place on Monday 23rd January at Alan d Academy in Smithfield, London. Offering a unique opportunity to learn from an array of mentors from different industry backgrounds, including Ian Rotman from HOB Salons, Jean Louis Canonville from Alan d Academy, Ollie Mehra from Th1 Hair, Amy O’Keefe from Hare & Bone, Richie Kadir from Billi Currie, and Jeremy Roca Ripoll from Rush. Edward Hemmings hosted the event while the masters guided the students on an almost one-to-one basis, providing words of wisdom and teaching tips and tricks to enhance their finishes and techniques. Edward said the event was “another brilliant workshop providing so much education. It is always an eagerly anticipated event and the atmosphere in our academy is always packed full of excitement. It was great to see so much variance in men’s hairdressing, including clipper work and scissor over comb. What a great night!” 6 | BarberNV Magazine
Join the American Crew Time is running out to get your entries in for the American Crew All-Star Challenge, and be recognised as the best stylist for men in the world. Open to all professional barbers, stylists, and male groomers, whatever you call yourself, it’s a chance to create a style that fits in with the American Crew brand ethos, with the grand final being held in
a luxurious location somewhere around the globe. Last year’s event was held in Paris, with the United Kingdom’s Sandra Perovic being crowned the overall winner. If you want to follow in Sandra’s footsteps then you need to get your entry in via www.americancrew.com/ allstarchallenge/.
Look the part, get the job Hair Force 1 in Romford is doing its part to improve the job opportunities of young people in the area by offering free haircuts to 16-24 year olds seeking employment. In collaboration with YMCA Romford and Romford JobCentre Plus, customers with imminent job interviews can get their haircut free of charge on Mondays,
Tuesdays, and Wednesdays at the London Road shop. Owner Anderson Boyce is keen to extend the scheme further and is in talks with Thames Gateway YMCA about how to do so, while the team has also taken part in the Big Sleepout for Centrepoint in November and hope to take part in the Sleepout with YMCA in February.
IRISH BARBER ALLIANCE Roches Barbershop in Kildare welcomed The Irish Barber Alliance Artistic Team into their shop for a day of education with Mark Gaye of Notorious Barbers and Damien Adair of Thee Mens Room.
takara’s trendy showroom Takara Belmont have unveiled a brand new showroom, TB Square, in Osaka, Japan. At the heart of a country renowned for its design innovation, the brand new showroom spans five floors, each dedicated to different areas of the hair and beauty industry, offering salon owners interior inspiration. Any visiting barbers will want to head to the first floor where they will find all
the latest offerings from one of the most innovative and inspiring brands in the professional sector, with their full range of top quality chairs and backwashes available for perusal. After that retail therapy you can stop by the fifth floor rooftop garden to relax and reflect on your purchases… and how you’re going to fit them in your baggage allowance.
Damian Owen joins C&G BIB City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board has made another top signing with the addition of The Elite London Town Barbers owner Damian Owen. He joins esteemed barbers such as Dan Davies, MK, Phil Jarman, Alison Scattergood, and Adam Sloan in their quest to improve education and training throughout the UK. It marks an incredible year for Damian who in the past 12 months has also been made a fellow of the Men’s Hair Federation, and he was delighted to
take City & Guilds’ Diane Mitchell up on her offer. Damian said: “It’s nice to see a normal barber from the streets on it. I just want to educate people – I’m an old bloke who does all the traditional stuff and if I can give a piece of my knowledge to these apprentices going out in the industry then I’ve done my job.” It’s a baptism of fire for Damian who will attend his first Barbering Industry Board meeting on February 13th.
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NHF Business Academy The NHF is excited to announce the launch of its brand-new business and coaching advice service specifically designed to help businesses become more successful and profitable. The NHF Business Academy draws on the experience of a vastly experienced team of trainers, business mentors and coaches, all whom have decades of knowhow running successful business within the industry. Chair renting agreements An employment tribunal ruling meant that Uber lost the right to classify its UK drivers as self-employed, and so should pay them the National Living or National Minimum Wage as well as offer paid holiday leave and paid rest breaks. The NHF chair renting agreements are specifically designed to ensure barber shop owners meet those criteria and are free to NHF members along with the support of the Legal Helpline. NHF rebrand The NHF has a new look for 2017 with a new logo and new member-based imagery. The NHF’s new logo has been designed to be clean, simple and bold. It recognises the heritage and history of the National Hairdressers Federation through the ongoing use of our well-recognised initials, NHF. ‘Supporting the hair, beauty and barbering industries’ emphasises the NHF is also inclusive and accessible to all industries. NHF Membership Keep up to date with all the latest news, views and business information from the NHF by becoming a member. Get in touch and quote ‘BarberNV’ to receive £25 discount off your first year’s membership fee. Rates available for barbershop owners/managers or chair renters. To find out more visit www.nhf.info or call us on 01234 831965
NHF
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After an incredibly successful 2016 for both the MHFed and the City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board that saw us pick the inaugural Barbering Apprentices of the Year from around the UK, we are already looking forward to an even better 2017. The first big event of the year sees us head north to Scotland and in particular Glasgow for the first ever Salon Expo. It’s set to be the biggest event of its type in north of the border and we’re really excited about what is set to be an amazing opportunity for the MHFed. With our own large zone in the event hall, it’s a fantastic opportunity to reach more people than ever through education. Organiser Lexy Scott has really listened to us with regards to what we felt we needed and her innovative approach should pay off. We are looking forward to showing off our designated training area and helping the barbers of Scotland take their skills to the next level. Before that though we have a fantastic opportunity to once more showcase the talents of the four young barbers who took home the Apprentice of the Year crowns last year. On February 6th they will take part in a photo shoot influenced by the Home Internationals in football, with models in retro football tops each representing the part of the UK their barber is from. It should look incredible. While we were delighted with how the apprentice search went last year, we plan on making it even bigger and better this year with more colleges involved and more top names helping out. So if you are an apprentice barber from any of the four countries in the UK then keep your eye out for more details soon on how you can enter. We are also thrilled to announce the appointment of Damian Owen to the Barbering Industry Board. Damian is a straight-talking, no-nonsense traditional barber who is keen to improve standards of education in the industry and we are excited to see what he brings to the table when he joins us on February 13th.
C&G and the MHfed
The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is an organisation dedicated to the sheer creative excellence of the industry, and 2016 was certainly an unforgettable year. Men’s hairdressing and barbering became more prevalent in both their events and on their stages and 2017 looks like it is going to another incredible year! Member’s Night This event is a chance to see upcoming talent as they take to the stage with the hope of wowing scouts and being chosen for future opportunities. It is always an eagerly anticipated event and is attended by both members and non-members. A great way to find out more about The Fellowship; meet some like-minded hairdressers, and be inspired! The night takes place at the new look Wella World Studio on Monday 20th February and you can book your place now by contacting kate@fellowshiphair.com New Year introduces some new team members 2017 welcomes a few new faces to the Project Leader Team and you can ‘Meet The Team’ over on The Fellowship’s website right now. A chance to get to know them a little better and find out what their role is over the next two years, plus you can also see who will be embarking on a year of education. We are so excited to announce the new Teams for The F.A.M.E. Team, Project X, Colour Project, and ClubStar Art Team. Get involved A New Year means the perfect time to get involved with The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, if you aren’t already! Spend 2017 attending incredible events, inspiring your team, and meeting some very talented hairdressers along the way. Everything you need to know is on the website or why not call our Fellowship HQ Team on 01295724579 and find out everything you need to know. To keep up to date with everything that is going on visit www.fellowshiphair.com and follow The Fellowship on Instagram and Twitter with @fellowshiphair
The Fellowship
Having ended 2016 with the fantastic British Master Barbers’ MB Live at Crawley’s Arora Hotel, attended by hundreds of hair professionals from across the country, which saw the crowning of the British Master Barbers’ Barber of the Year – with Northern Ireland’s Micky Graham taking the crown – the BMB are looking forward to an even more fruitful 2017. As always, BMB are continuing with their package of benefits for members this year, with a variety of great reasons why you should join up including: • Free Membership Pack – Members will receive a special BMB membership pack containing a personalised membership certificate, window sticker, and a few other goodies. • Free listing on The Good Barbershop Guide worth £9.99 – The Good Barbershop Guide is a location tool for the general public to find barbershops near them. Available at GoodBarbershopGuide.com • Discounted Barber Specific Insurance – We have been working closely with Slade Edwards Insurance brokers to bring you a custom made barber specific insurance policy scheme. This insurance scheme has been made especially for barbers throughout the UK and covers every aspect of barbering including cutthroat usage, hot towel usage, tool cover, show/exhibition work, short term working abroad, mobile barbering, and much more. •As a member you will have the chance to apply our higher status accreditation. For this you will receive a beautifully crafted aluminium wall plaque that clearly shows your high achievement to all your customers. This is truly something to be proud of. If successful in your application of Master Barber of Grand Master Barber you will also receive a press release to send to your local papers and media companies to further promote your business. Join now at britishmasterbarbers.com
British Master Barbers
So, 2017 is now well and truly upon us…. Happy New Year from us all at The Barber Council! I hope your all had a great Christmas, enjoyed the break if you managed to get one, and the till was jingling during the busy Christmas period. We are currently looking at ways as to how The Hair and Barber Council can possibly support our industry charity, The Hairdressers Charity. We went to the launch of the charity back in the summer, and were so impressed with the work they had previously done as The Hairdressing Benevolent, and now with the new focus and re-launch as The Hairdressers Charity, we are keen to look to support their work in someway. If you have any ideas, please send me an email and let me know your thoughts; my email address is keith@ haircouncil.org.uk. With all the various meetings scheduled for January, The Barber Council meeting, the Finance Committee meeting and the main Hair Council meeting, this month looks to be very busy indeed! Our summer Tea Party at The House of Commons this year is booked for the afternoon of Monday 12th June. A great event, if you haven’t been before, seriously consider it for this year. The House of Commons is a magnificent building, the sense of history and power that permeates through every corridor is simply extraordinary! I know in past years there has been some disappointment with ticket availability. The River Terrace room, only holds 200 people maximum and there is no way to extend but we hope to make more tickets available to members in the coming months. As always, my sincere thanks to you all for your continued support of The Hair and Barber Council, it is very much appreciated! Please get in touch if you have any questions, ideas or suggestions etc., my door is always open my phone rarely off! Have a great 2017 and I will be back in March with more Hair and Barber Council news.
The Barber Council
BBA to recognise ‘best of the best’ with barbershop accreditation The British Barbers’ Association is offering barbershops the chance to prove they are the ‘best of the best’ to clients and fellow professionals with the launch of a new accreditation scheme. The BBA Accredited Barbershops programme will recognise those establishments that have gone the extra mile in terms of customer service, standards, health and safety and training. Barbershops that sign up to the initiative will have to demonstrate they meet a range of strict criteria, including a commitment to staff training. They will also need to show they are compliant with regulatory requirements such as legal coverage, health and safety, and policies on sharps procedures and electrical testing, as well as demonstrating a commitment to helping the BBA to raise standards and protect clients at all times. In return, Accredited Barbershops will be able to promote to the public through the use of the official BBA Accredited Barbershops logo on their website and PR and marketing materials, a window sticker, a wall certificate, and a placement on the BBA website. Chris Foster, Director of the BBA, said: “Our members had been telling us for some time that they wanted some mechanism to not just recognise those barbershops with high standards, but to encourage others to aim higher and raise the bar across the entire industry. “Although BBA Accredited Barbershops is voluntary, there’s a real need to be able to highlight to the public those establishments that meet the highest professional standards and put their wellbeing, service and safety first.” The BBA Accredited Barbershops programme costs £125 plus VAT per year per establishment. To apply, email accreditation@ britishbarbers.com or call 07786 051720
British Barbers’ Association
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Hold-School Barbering PALL MALL BARBERS
Barbering is a man’s world and Pall Mall Barbers are embracing that with their sponsorship of the Cage Warriors Fighting Championships, one of the manliest sporting events around. Broadcast live around the UK and Ireland on BT Sport, the first of their collaborations saw attendees taking a break from the no-holds barred action treated to an old school barbershop experience backstage courtesy of the Pall Mall Barbers pop-up salon and team. Meanwhile viewers at both the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park,
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London and at home could see the Pall Mall branding visible around the ring. Pall Mall Barbers managing director Richard Marshall has been a long-time fan of MMA and Cage Warriors and believes it’s the perfect partnership, saying: “We’ll be hosting pop-up save, hair, and beard trim treatments on fight nights and also be visible in the octagon with the fighters’ corner area and the Cut Man’s gloves being branded. There’s real history with barbers and the medical field; barbers
used to be surgeons years ago and practiced blood-letting, dentistry, and minor surgery which is why barber stores around the world have the red and white poles outside, so linking with the Cut Man and being part of their essential physio equipment brings the heritage of barbering full circle.” Keep your eye out for Pall Mall Barbers at future Cage Warriors event or check them out at one of their four London shops. For more information visit pallmallbarbers.com
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MOVING ON FROM MOVEMBER
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e covered Movember in the last issue with so many amazing money-raising events, competitions, and products helping to highlight the danger of male related health problems, and while everyone embraced it so fantastically it unfortunately had to come to an end. Fortunately the All-Party Parliamentary Group on the Hair Industry (set up by the Hair and Barber Council), Prostate Cancer UK, and the Movember Foundation were on hand in Parliament to mark the end of Movember with a wet shave. MPs, their staff, and others who work on the parliamentary estate came together to celebrate the effort that everone had put into raising awareness and funds for men’s health and celebrate
STOP MEN DYING TOO YOUNG MOVEMBER.COM 12 | BarberNV Magazine
the end of the month with a complementary shave. The event, which took place in the Parliamentary John Simon hair salon with support from Aston & Fincher, was designed to raise awareness of the health risks that men face, whilst celebrating the skills of British barbers, and to mark the end of another successful Movember with clean faces all round! John McNally MP, Chair of the APPG on the Hair Industry and himself a former barber, said: “British barbers are the best in the world and the APPG on the Hair Industry are delighted to showcase these skills whilst supporting Movember for the second year running. “I hope that I will be dusting off my razor blades in Parliament for Movember for many years to come!”
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Get that competitive edge I
t’s only natural when you think about it; with more men than ever before taking an interest in their image, the classic trade of barbering is now at the forefront of the hair and beauty industry. And with barbering on so many people’s minds, there has never been a better time for barbers to test their talents against other committed professionals in industry competitions. Winner of Scotland’s Best Barber 2016 Stacey McCabe says: “I would always encourage barbers and stylists to enter competitions. They are hard work but reward you with recognition from some of the industry’s most talented professionals.” The South Lanarkshire barber owns Jentz Male Grooming on Maxwelton Avenue, East Kilbride and has been creating exquisite men’s hairstyles for over 25-years. Last May, she was named Scotland’s Best Barber 2016 after a tense live-final at Scottish Hair and Beauty in Edinburgh’s Royal Highland Centre. “Winning Scotland’s Best Barber has changed my entire career,” she said. “It has given me a platform to gain more valuable work and opened so many new doors for me.” Since winning the industryrecognised award, McCabe has worked with some of the industry’s biggest brands: American Crew, The Bluebeards Revenge, Slaters Menswear, Salon Services, and soon professional barber training service the Great British Barbering Academy.
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“The future certainly looks very bright and winning this award has everything to do with it,” she admits. “2017 starts with a mentored session and photo shoot with Chris Foster, before I dive into my educational role with the Great British Barbering Academy.” For those wishing to flourish in an industry that is packed with so many talented professionals, the competitive stage offers an advantage: “It can be difficult to stand out in this industry, especially now that there are so many of us applying our trade. But competitions allow your work to do the talking and offer you the chance to shine. “It really is a unique experience and I will be eternally grateful to all of the judges and sponsors for presenting me with such a life-changing award.” Stacey McCabe will be returning to Scotland’s Best Barber in 2017 to sit on the judging panel and crown her successor alongside the Great British Barbering Academy’s Head Educator Mike Taylor. Taylor added: “Competitions really are the future of barbering. They present enthusiastic professionals with the chance to showcase their finest work and always help to raise standards within the hair and beauty industry. “The Great British Barbering Academy is very excited to be hosting this year’s Scotland’s Best Barber competition and is expecting to see some truly inspirational efforts.”
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the lions pop-up in camden
FINDLAY FACTS
The first one-piece reclining barber chair with an attached footrest was patented in 1878 by the Archer Company of Saint Louis.
W
hen we last spoke to the Lions Barber Collective founder Tom Chapman in the last issue he was telling us about his plans to spend the festive season relaxing with his family following some busy months – but life doesn’t always work out like that! Instead the Lions have been making more and more progress, with appearances on BBC radio and television, and a successful event with Pall Mall Barbers and Brewdog in Camden, as they continue to spread the word and raise awareness about men’s mental health issues. With Christmas and New Year a particularly difficult time for people vulnerable to depression and other mental health issues, the Lions popup barbershop could not have come at a better time. On Dec 30th, Tom, Laurence Fo, Karla Elton, and Pall Mall’s Dan Davies, created the ultimate masculine environment barbershop in Camden Brewdog. Combining Brewdog’s pub charms with a top quality barbershop, the
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team also linked up with the Progress Wrestling Unboxing event around the corner in the Electric Ballroom for cross promotion, reaching even more men who traditionally may have been reluctant to open up about their emotions and their troubles. The day was a massive success, raising in the region of £500 for the Lions’ cause, ideal as they set about reaching a target of £5,000 to register as a charity. Having collaborated so well for this event, Pall Mall, Brewdog, and the Lions are already working on setting up more pop-up shops throughout 2017, and have had a massive response from barbers around the UK who are keen to help, with hundreds offering to volunteer. It shows how close the cause is to the hearts of many in the trade, with barbers on the front line of dealing with customers and persuading them to open up. Breaking down the taboos surrounding mental illness is what the lions are all about and by appearing on BBC 5 Live they are reaching a national
audience. Three of the Lions, Tom, Darren Pitman, and Davie Walker, were on discussing their work while Tom also made an appearance on television with BBC London. While momentum in the UK is heating up, the Lions aren’t resting on their laurels, with trips to Dubai, Canada, and Brazil on the horizon. At the cutting edge of technology, the Lions will be bringing a virtual reality barbershop to the Middle East. While attendees relax in their chair at the convention in Dubai, a recorded message from the Lions’ Jac Ludlow will play in the mirror they are facing. Meanwhile Tom is off to Canada to see about expanding the Lions more permanently into North America, with Mark Peyton of Sailor Bups barber shop, a Wahl and Reuzel ambassador, possibly heading up the Lions over there. Then it’s over to Brazil for stagework and education, while bringing the Lions to South America for the first time. With events like the Brewdog and Pall Mall pop-up shop raising valuable money for the Lions as they bid to get their charitable registration number, the Bluebeards Revenge are helping out with a men’s product range that will see Lions literature and stats printed inside the box, and money going towards the cause. 2017 is already shaping up to be an even more incredible year than 2016, and we scarcely thought that was possible.
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Simon Shaw The life and times of the wahl clipper mogul
An Interview with Larry The Barber Man 18 | BarberNV Magazine
If there’s one name that just about everybody in the barbering and hairdressing industry is familiar with, then it has to be Simon Shaw: with his enviable role as Wahl’s European Artistic Director, he is in a position that many other barbers dream of, and his work with Wahl’s Artistic Team never fails to impress.
With all that in mind, I’ve been delighted to have not only had the opportunity to carry out a deep and informative interview with Simon, but to now be bringing you the fascinating story behind his career with this article. From a monthly column exploring men’s grooming to an incredible range of different training courses and, of course, the innovative approach that he’s become famous for, Simon’s got a huge reputation and a lot of advice to share. From the earliest stages of his career to some of the most recent projects, let’s explore the barbering life of Simon Shaw.
“I’m very fortunate, and I think that drives me forwards”
One of the first things that Simon and I discuss is just how fortunate he is to have found himself in the role of European Artistic Director for a company as well-established and well-loved as Wahl. When you look at a hair stylist in such a high-profile position it’s easy to say that they’ve been lucky; really, of course, luck had nothing to do with it – it’s all hard work. Simon describes his early career, and how he pushed himself up through the hair styling ranks: “How it all started was a little bit weird. I was working for a big group in the north of England, Dimensions – I started there in 85/86. I was a hairdresser, and I started doing some shows for Goldwell, and I was doing photoshoots, getting front covers of Hairdresser’s Journal, doing lots of shows for Goldwell. Then they opened up their academy in Mayfair in 1995, on Sackville Street. It was the all-singing, all-dancing thing at that point. “So, between 95 and 2000 I did around 300 courses for them. I was their most – I say the Yorkshire word – I was their most ‘used’ presenter. Within that period, during that journey working in Central London, I met a guy from Wahl who at that time was their professional sales manager in the UK, and he asked me to go on and do some exhibition work.” From here, Wahl kept asking him to do more exhibitions until, in 1999, they gave him the opportunity to devise a clipper training programme for their new academy. This opened back in 2002 with just two courses on offer: now it’s a huge academy that also sealed Simon’s position as part of Wahl.
“So many people want to be on our team”
It’s certainly true, as Simon says, that barbers all over the world want to be a part of Wahl, so for everybody reading this who aspires to one day joining their team I thought it was important to get a
sense of an average working week. To give me an example of his working life, Simon talked me through the week that he’d just spent on the road before meeting up with me: “So if we look at last week and this week – you’re as good as your last game. On Monday I was in Hereford at Aston & Fincher’s, one of our massive professional accounts. I was in Belfast, Tuesday, to meet the tailor who makes all the guys’ suits for Salon International and all our shows. Then I flew back from Belfast to do a seminar for about 80 people at Bolton College on Tuesday. I went back home on Wednesday night and got the train into central London on Thursday, where I did an in-store demonstration in Debenhams, joined by two guys from Ted’s Grooming Room, our barbershop of the year. Then Friday it was back to Yorkshire to repack my stuff and on to Kent for a two-day training course. “It’s every day, most weekends. I look at every Monday for probably 35 weeks where I can’t really have a good weekend because Sunday I’ve got to be travelling.”
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As somebody who spends a fair amount of time on the road in my own day-to-day life, I can only imagine what it must be like to have such a tight schedule planned so far in the head – which makes it all the more impressive that Simon still manages to find the time to spend with his family.
“I never switch off… Work is a massive part of my life”
With two children, three grandchildren, and a girlfriend to spend time with, Simon does occasionally find time to relax and unwind, but most of the time he has his nose to the grindstone! There are a few different key elements that make up Simon’s role: on the one hand, he is behind the new courses that Wahl’s academy will offer – so he has to be on top of the upcoming trends, and make sure that he can find the perfect educators for each course. On the other hand, he also teaches some of his own courses, getting stuck in and demonstrating particular cuts and techniques. “I would say my main forte is when I do the evening seminars. Flick and smack, a bit of music, entertainment – there’s nothing better.” That flick and smack is one of Simon’s trademark techniques, and he agrees to let us into the secret of how it was developed: “I was out in America, and the guy in America who did what I did at the time was using our texture blade, and the way he was using it just came out too bulky. So, I was talking to Johnny Baba, who’s a good mate of mine, and he tells me that two days a week in his kitchen he cuts hair at home. So, I came home and worked on it on my own, just mastered it. Then we were in South Africa and I asked the DJ to turn the music up because you need rhythm, and that’s where cut to music came from. The rest is history.”
“We’re trying to convert some of the old-school barbers”
It might seem unlikely that a brand like Wahl need to convert anybody, but with their latest range of cordless tools they’ve got a little bit of education ahead of them, showing barbers that these clippers will give just as much power as a corded clipper, and easily last through the full length of a haircut (or several) without running out of power.
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Unsurprisingly, though, Simon has been gathering great feedback – and I’ve been hearing great things about shavers like the Finale and hair clippers like the Magic Clip Cordless during my own conversations with barbers. This is all down to the lithium batteries, which are quick charging, long lasting, and deliver all the power that a barber could need. Many barbers will also be interested to hear about Wahl UK’s plan to convert popular US clippers to the United Kingdom voltage. “It’s not because we’re lazy. It’s because the battery inside the American unit can’t necessarily be used here we have to wait until it’s right. We’re trying to bridge the gap though, and bring things out more quickly.”
“I can get quite emotional talking about this”
There’s so much more that I could share with you about Simon, but now that it’s time to wrap things up I wanted to look at what he sees as the greatest achievement throughout such a full and fruitful career: “I can get quite emotional talking about this, my biggest achievement is going into the shops, going into Harrods and seeing a shelf full of products with my face on the packaging: premier products. Everybody wants a product range, to see their products in shops like Selfridges, and that’s my biggest achievement in Wahl.” For any barber or hair stylist reading this who has ever dreamt of seeing their own name on the box of a popular product, I doubt it’s hard to see why this would be such a proud achievement for Simon! To follow in Simon’s footsteps, then – whether it’s to launch your own project or to land the barbering position of your dreams – what do you need to do? In Simon’s own words, and to end this in-depth look at his career:
“You need to be seen out there, but you need to be nice.”
All that’s left for me to say is a huge thank you to Simon for giving me the chance to find out so much about his barbering work: I’m sure that everybody reading this has found it just as enlightening as I did. Throughout the coming year, you can expect to see Simon at more shows and delivering more training courses as
he continues his life on the road. If you want to see more of my work, find me on Instagram (@ larrythebarberman), or YouTube (at barbers. tv): I’ll be looking out for you!
Since 1919, Wahl has been an integral part of the barber trade. We proudly continue the grooming tradition for today’s discerning Gentlemen. The classically stylish range of 5 Star series traditional products have been designed to provide a luxurious shaving experience. AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT
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PRS for Music launches Music Makeover 2017 competition for barbershops. Now in its third year, PRS for Music is proud to announce its Music Makeover competition for barbershops with the winning prize of a £5,000 makeover. PRS for Music devised the Music Makeover campaign for barbershops to showcase and raise awareness of how good music can impact businesses. The quality of the sound system itself, the acoustics, music choice and volume all impact both your customers’ and staff experience. Celebrating the value of music in hair and beauty salons, PRS for Music is also offering a bespoke music consultation from a leading music and technology expert advising them on the best use of music in their barbershop and a launch event to celebrate and promote their win
featuring live music from PRS for Music members alongside the £5,000 prize. Last year attracted more than 300 entries with Simon Webster Hair in Brighton being crowned the winners. The salon received a bespoke music consultancy from leading record producer Steve Levine and a £5k new interactive sound system allowing high quality music to be chosen by customers and played over its three floors. As part of the celebrations, PRS for Music hosted a launch party, with a presentation at the premises and live performances from DJ Melody Kane, local talent Øvre and Brighton’s trailblazing Afropunk collective Lakuta at Brighton club, Patterns gaining prestigious national and regional media coverage.
“Music is such a vital part of the experience we want to create for our customers. It helps them to feel welcome and relaxed, it’s also an important part of our brand. We try hard to work with all the amazing creative industries in Brighton with music at the forefront and we’re so excited to finally be able to have a music system that reflects our passion. Thank you so much PRS for Music.” Sophie Webster, Partner-Manager of Simon Webster Hair Pictured (left to right): Paul Sims, Head of Marketing at PRS for Music; Sophie and Simon Webster; PRS Chairman Guy Fletcher; and PRS Board Director and expert music consultant Steve Levine. 22 | BarberNV Magazine
PRS for Music is offering a ÂŁ5,000 Music Makeover for one lucky barbershop in the UK. Music brings business to life.
Enter now prsformusic.com/musicmakeover Deadline is Friday 24 February 2017 at 5pm (T&Cs apply)
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Editor’s Comment When one of the premium brands in our industry releases a new range, everyone sits up and takes notice. When two of them do it, well that’s exciting. Wahl and American Crew have both brought their a-game as they show-off two skincare ranges that are sure to be featured heavily in barber shops up and down the country. We’re big fans of them both, so take a look and see what one you think will suit you best!
American Crew Shaving Skincare Range Five products, one great shave. Formulated to not only provide a top class shaving experience, but also to moisturise and revitalise the skin underneath, American Crew has come up with a range that will not only work in your shop but also makes for a great retail opportunity to satisfied customers. The Ultra Gliding Shave Oil prepares the skin for shaving and can be used under the Precision Shave Gel or Moisturising Shave Cream. There’s also a Protective Shave Foam so can meet your clients’ demands regardless of what they are. Finish them off with the Revitalizing Toner to refresh just-shaved skin. Mankind.co.uk
Black Label Grooming CraftClay Manchester’s finest, Black Label Grooming are making a name for themselves with a range of styling products that cater for every hair type and desired look. The contemporary design, sleek black and slick, is only bettered by the products it holds. Our favourite is the CraftClay – derived from Bentonite, a weathered volcanic ash, it adds body, thickness, and structure to hair, creating a lovely earthy texture with the hold and strength you need.
KEVIN.MURPHY ROUGH. RIDER Tough and rough, Kevin Murphy drew on the classic Teddy Boy hairstyles of the 50s to create a product that would allow for hair to be piled on top of the head and moulded and sculpted into shape. If you want volume then ROUGH.RIDER is the product to have, combining a mixture of wax with diatomaceous earth (no we don’t know what that is either, but it’s made up of 89% silica which stimulates hair growth), you’ll be crafting looks that hold high and look huge no matter what.
£12.99 – blacklabelgrooming.com
£20 – kevinmurphystore.com
American Deluxe Pomade Among the laid back beach curls of SoCal, one brand is bringing back the slick pomps and smart quiffs we all admire. American Deluxe Pomade is from the team behind the Riverside Shave Co., one of California’s coolest barbershops. With the extreme heat of the US west coast proving a difficult test for many normal pomades, American Deluxe stands up to the conditions – it doesn’t melt, holds strong, and lasts all day. With worldwide shipping you can get your hands on something your customers won’t have experienced before but that they won’t forget in a hurry. Instagram - @americandeluxepomade
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Wahl Professional 5 Star Traditional Shaving Range Specifically designed to add luxury to your wet shave service, the new range from Wahl combines the spirit of the traditional barbershop experience with a modern approach to style and ingredients. As always, Wahl can be relied on to provide only the finest barbering tools, with their Shave Razor and its platinum disposable blades a particular highlight. Exclusive to Sallys, the full range consists of 10 must-have products including both badger and boar bristle brushes, a Foaming Shave Gel and Pre-Shave Oil, while for those customers wishing to keep their facial hair they can condition and nurture it with Wahl’s Beard Oil. www.salon-services.com
King Brown Cream Pomade Long raved about by our Australian friends, the brand name King Brown is a nod to the largest venomous snake in the country. While you should do your best to stay away from venomous reptiles, you should do everything in your power to get near some of their Cream Pomade. With a light to low medium hold, and natural sheen, it’s formulated for use on natural look styles, thinner hair, and taming longer hair. Their motto encourages customers to Live Like Kings, dressing in style regardless of your occupation or pursuit, and this product certainly achieves that. Get in touch online to see about importing it internationally. $20 – KingBrownPomade.com
Clippers Barbershop Texture Spray Suavecito Grooming Spray Another Californian brand, Suavecito have grown from nothing to being one of the biggest players in the US market since 2011. Their range of pomades is legendary, as is their quiffed skull branding, and the best way to complement a Suavecito style is with their Grooming Spray. With just a couple of pumps, style is locked-in with an iron-clad grip. It can also be used to dampen the hair before pomade is applied, or even used on its own for a lighter hold and looser look that doesn’t over stiffen.
Long gone are the days when you had to be a multinational company to bring out a product range. The barbering boom has seen the everyday, ordinary barber turn his hand to creating something that he knows works and that he can rely on. Clippers Barbershop in Maghull are taking on the big boys with simple, efficient products, like their Texture Spray. A veritable miracle spray, it’s high performance, fast drying, and humidity resistant, making it perfect for blow drying with a high shine finish.
£14.95 – newmen.co.uk
£10 – clippersbarbershop.co
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The Bluebeards Revenge Moustache Wax Tame the manliest of moustaches with The Bluebeards Revenge Moustache Wax. Sculpt, shape and twist your mo’ to create the ultimate piece of upper lip attire. Laced with the classic Bluebeards scent, this is one wax that will have your slug looking slick in no time and smelling great, too, which is a must when it’s right under your nose. Offering strong hold and conditioning your tache as you go, a small amount is all it takes. £8.99 – sallyexpress.com
Cutthroatpete Texture Spray
JS Sloane Caviar Matte Clay With its fresh scent and good looking aluminium jar, JS Sloane’s Caviar Matte Clay lives up to the brand’s mission statement of harking back to the vintage sensibilities of Hollywood’s golden era. A blend of wax and clay that offers both hold and texture to hair, offers a traditional matte finish, and washes out easily.
The latest product from Liverpool based male grooming and lifestyle brand Cutthroatpetes is another winner. Proudly made in England, their products are stylish with a bit of an edge, and the new Texture spray lives up to the tag. A no shine spray that gives the hair a light hold with a natural and gritty finish. It shows off the texture in your cuts and is great for making thinner/fine hair appear thicker.
$19 – jssloane.com £14.95 – cutthroatpete.co
Structure Shaper The Structure range is making a name for itself in a big way and it keeps momentum going with the new Shaper. For those clients who are a bit shy of commitment, the light creamy paste adds texture, definition, natural finish, and medium hold without sacrificing style flexibility. Changing one’s look during the day has never been this easy. Especially good for people who prefer to feel like there is no product in it, it helps create subtle texture and leaves the hair beautifully scented. Structurehair.co.uk
Mailroom Barber Co. Beard Balm. The Mailroom Barber Co. Beard Balm has the healing, replenishing, and nourishing qualities of Beard Oil but with a few waxes that help tame and control your beard without the greasiness of pomade. Let’s face it, we’ve all tried putting pomade in our beards. Each 2oz tin is hand-poured in small batches in-house at their barbershop in Florence, South Carolina using ethically sourced materials and ingredients. You have three scents to choose from: Appalachia, Tea Tree, and Pipe Tobacco. $19 – themailroombarberco.com
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Braw Grafter Beard Oil If you want to smell manly, I’d put my faith in a product made with a man called The Bulldog. Downhill biker Brook MacDonald has renewed his relationship with Braw Beard Oils to bring out a second collaboration, a medium weight oil suitable for all beard types. All Braw oils use hempseed oil as the main ingredient, blended with their own unique scent recipes to give that handmade in Scotland odour. We can’t promise it will make you as brave or talented as Brook, but it’s worth a go. £16.99 – brawbeardoils.com
Mariner Jack Moustache Wax If there’s one thing Mariner Jack can’t be accused of it’s rushing their products to market. A family run operation, they ensure everything is of the highest quality before release, with this moustache wax spending well over a year in development. Perfect for keeping hair off your lip while achieving a natural looking moustache, simply warm between the fingers, apply to each half of the moustache evenly, and comb to shape. With a variety of scents to please the nostrils, it’s not a product to turn your nose up at.
Pevonia Spa Care For Him If your punters like a good pampering then Pevonia have the products to purchase. Men typically develop skin which is thicker when compared to women’s skin. Pevonia’s men’s line specifically caters to male skin types and is also designed to calm, soothe, de-age, and prevent ingrown hairs related to shaving. The five products cater for every part of the face, from their collagen boost face balm and eye contour, to their foaming cleanser and easy-glide shaving emulsion, it’s relaxation heaven.
£9.95 – marinerjack.co.uk
Pevonia.co.uk
Lockhart’s Professional Water Based Pomade A medium to firm hold water based pomade that has all day hold, high shine, and a masculine fragrance with subtle notes of lavender, earthy moss, and musk – super fresh, super clean. Lockhart’s say it’s their PliaLOCK technology that helps it remain firm and pliable throughout the day, but whatever it is we like it. You can even touch it up with a bit of water throughout the day to alter your style when you head from work to the pub. . $15.45 – lockhartsauthentic.com
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REM Helix Retail Reception Desk Complete Making a good first impression is vitally important. How you present yourself to your clients says a lot about how you view yourself and how they will view you. This reception desk from REM says you are modern, trendy, and serious about your craft. Featuring two helix curved sections and one retail module to showcase your wares, the curved sections also have open storage to the rear and an internal shelf. To suit your salon style, the units can be finished in any colour laminate from the REM range. £1,249 + VAT – rem.co.uk
Scorpion Prince Chair
Shaveface Strop
Let your clients relax in comfort with this utilitarian chair from Scorpion. Clean and uncomplicated, it has a tilting backrest, adjustable headrest, chrome base, and detailing, with smooth black fabric and classic stripe stitching. And coming in at under £300 there’s no sting in this tale.
It has become commonplace for barbers to offer traditional wet shaving to their customers as more and more men go for a quality barbershop experience. If you have the type of clientele interested in getting more out of their shaves at home as well then you may want to consider retailing these home-strops that will keep their disposable razor sharp for up to 500% longer. Although it might seem like doing yourself out of business, it’s helpful to establish a trusting relationship, and customers are then more likely to return to you for a wet shave before a big event.
£295 – alanhoward.co.uk
$38 – shaveface.com
Gamma Piu Barber Hairdryer Produced with barbers in mind and the dryer of choice for the team at the Great British Barber Bash, it’s something a little bit different from the standard hairdryer you usually see in shops. Strong male branding and exclusive design sets the Gamma Piu Barber hairdryer apart, but it still pulls its weight in the power department, and its lightweight feel means you won’t be nursing a sore arm at the end of your shift.
£90 – gammapiu.co.uk
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Akito Halo Akito have gone all angelic on us with their latest offering, the Halo. Tireless and powerful in all cutting techniques, with orbital swivel thumb ergonomics for unlimited creativity and exceptional hand comfort. Handcrafted from Japanese Hitachi 440C titanium finished steel, it’s available in 6” and has a removable finger rest. £250 – akitoscissors.com
Matakki The Beast Not just a scissor but a piece of art. Hand produced with high carbon Japanese steel for added durability making the scissor super smooth, balanced and razor sharp. The Beast is a perfect addition to your collection and has the ability to slice with ease. Finished to a high standard and polished to a smooth high shine finish, you won’t be disappointed. Included with every purchase, Matakki razor, 10 Japanese feather blades, carbon cutting scissor oil, tension key, and polishing cloth. £210 – Matakki.com
Wahl Academy Clipper While cordless clippers are making waves, with more powerful versions than ever hitting the market, many barbers still prefer the unbeatable power of the corded models. Wahl Academy Clippers are durable and heavy-duty, smashing through thick and long hair with no problems at all. The bright chrome finish is classy and timeless, and the high-precision chrome-plated blades are completely resistant to rust, so you can be confident that the clipper will give you years of service.
£59 – coolblades.co.uk
Collexia Straightener Known primarily for their excellent hairdryers, Collexia have turned their attention to a product being used more and more often in barbershops these days – straighteners. The variety of haircuts being produced by barbers is greater than ever as many of you step up to the challenge and essentially perform the role of men’s hairdresser. That makes the straightener a vital part of the modern barber’s arsenal, and this effort from Collexia is simple to use but durable enough that you won’t need to worry about it letting you down. Its ‘Nanosilver Titanium Technology’ is unique to Collexia and eliminates bacteria to reduce the risk of cross-contamination.
£74.99 – collexia.co.uk
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Matador Professional MC42 Each of these combs is the result of a precise and labour-intensive production process involving 19 different manufacturing operations. Now we could give you the full list so you really appreciate the effort that has went in to making each of these hard rubber combs so special, but you’ve got better things to do with your time so you’ll have to trust us on this. What you do need to know is that these combs have the look and feel of real quality, are anti-static, and have flat, sharp teeth that won’t damage your hair. £5.40 – coolblades.co.uk
Layrite Metal Comb Partnering up can lead to some fantastic combinations – Lennon and McCartney, Abbot and Costello, macaroni and cheese… So when Layrite and The Old Familiar Comb Company joined forces to create a laser-cut, stainless steel comb, we had expectations it would be of high quality. Hand-finished for ultimate comfort, bevelled medium teeth make it great for all hair types and styles, and to celebrate a fantastic hair style the bottle opener will get you started on the beers! $36 – layrite.com
D.R Harris & Co. Beard Brush A good stiff brush is a must at any stage of beard growth. This pure boar bristle and Black Forest beech wood brush is sure to fulfil all necessary requirements, relieving itchiness while helping to control unruly hairs. An added benefit is that brushing helps to evenly distribute the body’s natural oils and any additional beard oils or products you may choose to use. £19.95 – drharris.co.uk
Christophe Robin Special Blow Dry Hair Brush Our good friend Andrew Does Hair is adamant that good hair doesn’t come from a jar and that the most important tool in a stylist’s kitbag is their hairdryer. This is the ideal brush to accompany it, letting your clients experience a gentle and comfortable blow-dry thanks to the natural boar bristles, keeping the hair free from damage. The brush utilises a traditional French method, boasting bristles of varying lengths which effortlessly glide through hair, leaving locks detangled and ultra-shiny. £76 – mankind.co.uk
Mason Pearson Hairbrush Quality isn’t always cheap and when your professional reputation relies on it, sometimes it’s good to splurge on a product you know will be worth the cost. Mason Pearson have been making hairbrushes for over 125 years so they know a thing or two about quality, and this handy-size product is ideal for those looking for a sensitive touch. Handmade with natural boar bristle tufts, it comes in dark ruby (as pictured), pink, ivory white, or blue. £80.50 – masonpearson.com
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This light, tailored piece of garment is excellent for whole day use. With five adjustable points on the backstraps ensuring the apron forms nicely to the shape of the body, the apron is very comfortable and flexible to wear. The backstrap apron, with its immaculate detailing, gives you an elegant and professional look. An optional leather pouch in matching tones, features three pockets allowing you to keep all your practical items such as scissors, comb, trimmer or hairdryer organised and at hand. Large pocket measures 16 x 12 x 6 cm.
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Artisan Aprons Backstrap Apron
Apron: £115 + VAT Pouch: £35 + VAT Artisan-aprons.co.uk
Braw Beard Oils Have you joined the Brawtherhood? Braw Beard Oils have a natural affinity with sporting pursuits and even their founder John’s serious mountain biking accident hasn’t put them off, with Braw deeply involved in supporting and sponsoring athletes. Thankfully John fully recovered and you can now choose from a line of Braw apparel, showcasing your love of an athletic, yet bearded, lifestyle. Brawbeardoils.com
Mariner Jack Trapper Hat British winters are rarely fun, fighting arctic winds and going to and from work in darkness, but you can stay toasty and trendy with Mariner Jack’s Trapper Hat. 100% cotton canvas with Jack’s logo on one side and a #jointhecrew tag on the other side ear flap, it features faux fur trim, adujustable and optional neck straps with a quilted padded lining in the inside. £34.95 – marinerjack.co.uk
King Koby Mediocrity is a sin. That’s the motto of King Koby, Yorkshire barbers who are making a name for their community based shops and stylish haircuts – but more than that, their clothing is well smart, no mediocrity here. From beanies and snapbacks to jackets and jumpers, there’s a full range of wearable urban apparel to choose from, all bearing the Koby logo or assorted maxims including “Brotherhood of Defiance.” Kingkoby.com
Layrite Harking back to the brand’s rockabilly roots, their t-shirts are a mix of barbering iconography, buxom beauties, or fast machinery – which us all fine by us. Layrite are traditional to the extreme and that’s why they’ve become so beloved by barbers everywhere, so if you want to don an old-school trucker hat or cut hair with a stunning woman wrapped round a barber’s pole on your top, then the Costa Mesa crew should be your first port of call. Layrite.com
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Barbering: The Final Frontiers When your entire life revolves around barbering, questions such as ‘How do astronauts keep their hair tidy in zero gravity?’ and ‘Does Antarctica have any barbers?’ can keep you up at night. So to save you from those sleepless nights and keep your cutting skills on point, we thought we’d find out for you. And the answers are as interesting as you’d expect!
F
irst, a cut above the rest… way, way above! We’re off to the International Space Station.
Orbiting over 400km above Earth, the International Space Station is a beacon of international scientific co-operation, with astronauts from the United States, Canada, and Europe, plus Russian cosmonauts, regularly sharing it to unravel the mysteries of our world. But the real mystery to us is, who cuts their hair? It’s also the most isolated human inhabited area in the universe, and with the crew spending six months and longer on board, they can’t exactly pop round to their local barber for a trim. Fortunately they can call on one another to lend a helping Cady Coleman gives Paolo Nespoli a hand, as European Space Agency astronaut Samantha haircut on the ISS Cristoforetti found out when she decided it was time for a restyle. She popped along to the makeshift space salon ‘Chez Terry’, where proprietor and NASA astronaut Terry Virts was on hand to give her a cut. Samantha checks into Chez Terry
British astronaut Tim Peake self-trimming
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Photos: ESA/NASA Cady Coleman gives Paolo Nespoli a haircut on the ISS
International Space Station Facts Orbit height: 400km
Max speed: 27,600km/h (a Boeing 747 can reach 988km/h) Launch date: 20 November 1998
Cost: $150 billion (the single most expensive object ever) Length: 109m (bigger than a football pitch) Weight: 925,000 pounds (same as 320 cars) Now Chez Terry isn’t your regular shop, in fact it’s the fastest salon in the solar system moving at 17,200mph, so it helps to be close by, preferably already inside the station. One good aspect for the on-duty barber is you’re guaranteed customers with your regulars having nowhere else to go. However, if you do happen to hear someone chapping on the window outside, don’t let them in… Chez Terry is strictly appointment only, no walk-ins. But with only six people on board you don’t need to wait long to be seen. Oh, and no extra-terrestrials. There’s also the added bonus that if you do make a mistake, in space, no one can hear your customers scream – although they can still leave a bad Facebook review. And as Samantha revealed in a video released by the ESA, a haircut in space isn’t a one man job. While Terry worked the scissors, cosmonaut Anton Shkaplerov was on hand to work the vacuum. The main problem with cutting hair in zero-gravity is that rather fall to the floor in a neat, brushable pile, it floats around wherever it pleases, so Anton had
an important job to prevent it getting anywhere it might affect instruments and experiments – he’s more than your usual apprentice. With a combination of some slick scissor work and some handy vacuuming, Samantha was back to looking as trendy as we’ve come to expect from the Italians, well almost. The end result isn’t quite up to the standards we try to promote in this magazine, but considering their circumstance we’ll give them a pass. Other astronauts, including Britain’s own Tim Peake, have taken a clipper to do it themselves, but next time we’re on board the ISS (should be any day now…), we’ll be popping into Chez Terry. You can view the full video of Samantha getting her haircut at Terry’s Space Salon on the European Space Agency’s YouTube channel, but unfortunately they aren’t taking any applications for space barbers at the moment. However, as you’ll see on the next page, there are some places on Earth just as challenging for hair stylists…
Crew: Maximum of six You can see the ISS from Earth – check when and where at spotthestation.nasa.gov
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A N TA RCT I C A: L I FE O N T HE ICE
Photo: National Science Foundation
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world famous ‘barber’s pole’ but who’s the local barber? There’s a few more people around, but conditions in Antarctica can legitimately be claimed to be as arduous as on the ISS. Much like the space station, it’s home to scientists from around the globe who conduct experiments and examine wildlife in a manner that couldn’t be done anywhere else on Earth, including up to 1,000 at McMurdo Station – part of the National Science Foundation’s U.S. Antarctic Program. With temperatures rarely above freezing, even in summer, it is one of the most unwelcoming and inhospitable places on the planet, but with so many people calling it home for months at a time, a full-time hairstylist is required to fit their needs. The woman for the job is Alicia Sutherland. A graduate of the Aveda Institute in Seattle, Alicia was working in a salon in Portland when she overhead a client discussing living and working in Antarctica with a colleague. Adventurous by nature, it wasn’t long before Alicia had taken a job as a dishwasher on the planet’s most uninhabited continent just to get close to the action. It paid off as after two seasons the former hairstylist decided to move on and Alicia took over.
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As the sole clipper for up to 1,000 heads, Alicia is kept fairly busy, but despite the difference in her environment, her job is not a world away from the typical barber. She says: “On average I do anywhere from 12-16 haircuts, six days a week, 10-hours a day. The most I ever did in one day was 29, and the least was six or seven. I do a lot of military fades, but also a lot of longer men and women’s hair and fun asymmetrical cuts – it’s a mixed bag. “It’s honestly not much different from working at my previous salon because that was mostly geared towards men as well. Just the sheer volume of fades I feel might be the only major difference.” Sounds like what we are hearing even from UK barbers these days! Alicia says she does get to show off some creativity though as although “a lot of people like to keep it short and manageable to keep it out of their eyes, or short enough so they can just wake up and go, there’s also a large number who want an intricate fade to look sharp or pretty layers in their long hair.” One of the positives of being a stylist in such an enclosed environment, says Alicia, is that “you get to watch your work walking around constantly everywhere you turn, which is fun.” But such a close
and tight-knit community also means her clients may not be as willing to discuss private matters with her like many barbers are used to. Alicia explains: “I don’t feel like I am more of a therapist here than back in the real world… maybe even less so because everyone knows everyone here so their secrets could get out! I feel perhaps I get less juicy details here on the ice.” While McMurdo Station has a bustling population and is only two miles from New Zealand’s Scott Base, that’s it. The next nearest station is 400 miles away, so they are truly isolated. But that doesn’t stop them having fun Alicia tells us. “There’s lots of socialising here. There’s always some sort of activity to engage in. We have quite a few sport events during the season like softball, a marathon, or the tug-of-war competition. We have lots of live music down here as well, lots of bands showing off their skills on a weekend night or solo singers at open mic. I personally am super into the music scene, I’m always at some sort of band practice – it’s super fun! We also have a thing called Moustache Roulette in January where a bunch of men get their beards cut into funny shapes to raise money for different charities every year.”
Photos by Mike Lucibella, U.S. Antarctic Program, National Science Foundation
Overall it sounds like an incredible experience for Alicia. And while she admits to missing shopping and tacos, she’s living a truly unique experience that also allows her to save money and travel the world in her months off – anyone else for a job in Antarctica?
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YOUNG FEDS
ARTISTIC TEAM Barbering groups aren’t a rare thing these days. What sets them apart is what they want to achieve. For Adam and Joe Sloan of The Men’s Hair Federation it was about finding the best up and coming barbers in the United Kingdom and giving them all the help they needed to achieve their potential by working alongside and learning from some of the top names in the industry. In just a couple of years, all the members of The Young Feds have grown into first class hair cutters, winning competitions, opening their own shops, and inspiring a new generation of barbers – these are the names we hear when we ask barbers who they look up to in the trade. The current trio consists of Danny Robinson, Tariq Howes, and Josh Lamonaca, with former Young Fed Richie Martin taking some time out to concentrate on his new shop Subzero Studios in Glasgow and Simon Kibbler working alongside our former Barber of the Month Michael Damiano at Image Barbers in Bedford. As a family Now as we enter 2017, BarberNV decided to catch up with the Young Feds and see how they’ve benefitted from the link-up.
Josh Lamonaca – Co-owner of Menspire On the help and support given by the MHFed “Education is all about sharing your experiences, along with passion and willingness to learn. Being part of the Young Feds has enabled me to grow as a barber and a person through connecting myself with like-minded individuals to be able to support the industry and its growth. “The MHFed is the perfect platform for any individual seeking to reach their potential and share their message and love for the industry. Over time the MHFed has presented me with countless opportunities at the biggest events in the UK, all whilst being mentored under respected guidance. On his fellow Young Feds “With all due love and respect for the guys Richie Martin, Simon Kibbler, Danny Robinson, and Tariq Howes, they have all experienced their breakthrough over the 18 months whether it be through projecting their business or advancing their technical ability. I’ve seen them all grow into fantastic stylists, presenters, and business men.” Highlight of his time as a Young Fed “There have been so many highlights over the course of time, each and every time getting better and better and more profound. “One that sticks out firmly in my heart is when we presented on the Fellowship stage at Salon International London 2015. This is because it was the first time I had managed to get myself onto this particular stage after witnessing it at the age of 18 – my goal and one dream is to be able to present my work in front of industry greats with industry greats. On what the future holds “I envision that we begin to head to international events and represent for UK men’s hairdressing!”
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Danny Robinson – Owner of Danny&Co Barbershops in Oldham On the help and support given by the MHFed
“Being on the Young Feds has catapulted my barbering skills through the roof. When joining the Feds two years ago, my barbering was pretty average. I had an eye for detail, a big mouth, and loads of passion. I actually needed to work on my scissor skills. “As a collective force I was able to watch, learn, and grow as a barber/men’s hairdresser. Learning scissors from the likes of Foxy, Josh Lamonaca, and Joe Sloan has been amazing! “I’ve always been confident with clippers so working alongside Tariq and Simon Kibbler only helped me tweak my skills. “We have been guided superbly and the people I’ve been introduced to in the industry have been phenomenal. We have been welcomed to attend MHFed masterclasses showing us skills from some of the UK’s best men’s hairdressers. “My standout moment was being invited to Lee Stafford’s apartment in Soho London. He gave us some amazing advice and guidance about how to take our careers to the next step. On his fellow Young Feds “Josh Lamonaca has always been very consistent. His work is utterly astonishing! My jaw drops every time I’m around him. I’ve seen his brand Menspire be the leading one in the UK and now possibly the world. “My good friend Tariq has just made me so proud. I’ve known Tariq a few years and we started talking over social media in 2013. We would chat about the industry and he asked me pointers to help me get him into it. “We were asked to do the prostate cancer MHFed Raw Look Book in 2015. Tariq had recently won the Great British Barber Bash so I asked Adam Sloan if he could be involved; his haircut to me was the standout look in the whole book! And the rest is history: he was invited to join the Young Feds. His work is amazing, his stage confidence has grown so much, and now he’s gone on to win HJ Men Afro Barber of the Year.” Highlight of his time as a Young Fed “Definitely Wella Studios London in February 2015. We were working for the Fellowship of British Hairdressing Creative Excellence. I really researched and wanted my haircut to stand out. My model was based on Edward Scissorhands but brought into 2015 by skin-fading the sides. The audience was filled with hairdressing royalty including past British Hairdresser of the Year winners. I was told afterwards my haircut was one of the standout pieces which is definitely one of my proudest moments in my career.” On what the future holds “Global recognition I’m hoping! I love being with the Feds, I have learnt so many life lessons and met so many good friends. The journey has been life changing for all involved. “All this is down to Adam and Joe Sloan. I am forever in their debt. I would like to say a massive thank you to them. They are like family.”
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Tariq Howes – Owner of Fadez Barber Shop
On the help and support given by The MHFed
“They’re always there to help, whether it’s questions I have to progress with my business, education for me or my staff, or what’s the right and wrong things to do in this industry. I feel I’ve taken in as much advice as possible from them, and looking at it, it’s paying off for me massively. “It’s helped me as a barber in so many different ways. First of all I’ve been put up against three of the best barbers in the game, all equally talented in different ways so being able to rub shoulders with them, see how they work up close, has had a massive impact on me as a barber. Then you look at being out on the biggest stages in the male hairdressing industry, you have to show up – by that I mean produce some very good work and work that stands out so I’m constantly pushing myself to try new and things and seek to learn new things to take to these shows, which in itself helps me become most importantly a better barber to my clients. More knowledgeable, more skills, equals more to offer my clients.
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“On top of that you have guidance from the big man Adam Sloan and also Mr Cool himself Joe Sloan, who are both not only top barbers and businessmen but also genuinely nice guys to know and to listen to. “Also a perk of being part of The MHFed are the masterclasses put on monthly with great barbers such as Dale Ted Watkins, Kevin Vorley, Alan Beak, Martin Fox, etc. so to say being a part of it has helped me as a barber is an understatement. On his fellow Young Feds “Ahh they have been great! I was nervous at first thinking ‘Will we get on? How do I compare to thes talented guys?’ Etc. but they’ve been a massive help and influence on me as barbers and friends. I’ve improved my skill set so much because of these guys. And not to mention the hospitality shown by being invited to their shops and being looked after, especially by my good friends Danny Robinson and Josh Lamonaca. “I think they’re all massively talented
guys who have gone from strength to strength since I’ve known them – if I follow in their footsteps I’m sure I won’t go far wrong. I think I still have a long way to go but the plan is to achieve some of the things these guys are doing at the moment.” Highlight of his time as a Young Fed “Definitely has to be performing on the Fellowship stage, well, making my debut on it actually! Had great support and great feedback that day, was amazing. I knew I wanted to do stage work etc. but to go in and do the Fellowship straight away was crazy.” On what the future holds “My focus is to just keep progressing, putting out good work and building a successful business and being part of the Young Feds is going to help me with that. As far as what’s coming up you’ll need to ask the big man with the plan Adam Sloan but the aim is to inspire and push forward the industry so if I keep pushing and progressing I will be doing my job for the Feds.”
And now we get exclusively reveal the latest addition to the Young Feds: Paul Mac Special – owner of Paul Mac Special Hair and winner of an Irish Hair Federation Icon Award On becoming the latest Young Fed “So I’ve known for three months and it still hasn’t sunk in, and it’s bloody killed me having to keep it on the QT since! I was watching the Young Feds show at Salon International and went over to the man himself Adam Sloan for a chat. He asks ‘How would you feel about being up there’ and I was pure confused – I’ll blame the three hours sleep from the flight delay/model prep etc – so I goes ‘What do you mean?’ and he said he was a fan of my work, that it’s unique and he liked my attitude and would I be interested in joining the team. After I picked my jaw off the floor I said ‘Of course, it would be a huge honour.’ “Since barbering has really blown up in the last few years and I’ve become familiar with the top UK names, and although it seemed pretty farfetched, it was always a massive goal of mine to become a member of either the Young Feds or the B.O.M.B. Squad. I think most people in the industry would see these guys as like the Real Marid and Barcelona of the barber world – innovators, trendsetters, and the ones everyone wants to go see at live shows.” On how he hopes being a Young Fed will help him “It will take my career to the next level. Like seeing how successful the other team members are with thriving brands and academies and cutting celebs backstage at
major festivals etc. I’ve just opened my own shop Paul Mac Special Hair a few weeks back and to say I’m a member of the Young Feds will definitely boost its profile and it’s great having the support and advice of all the MHFed team like Adam, Foxy, Alan Findlay, Danny Robinson, Damian Owen etc. These guys in particular have given me brilliant advice the last few years which means a lot having people of that standard believing in me. “It will be amazing to have the chance to collaborate with icons like Adee Phelan, Lee Stafford, MK, Kevin Luchmun, and Desmond Murray who was a judge at my first ever competition.” On the rest of the Young Feds “Aw the lads are outstanding, I’m a massive fan of them all. Like I’ve been chatting to them too nervous to ask for a selfie and then be kicking myself later that I didn’t, so it’s very surreal to now be on the team with them! Josh has really forged the way for how barbering has blown up and I can definitely earn so much about sectioning/scissor work/blow-drying etc. from him. He gave me a great shout-out after Pro Hair Live that I was dead chuffed about. “I love how Danny can do classic, like that iconic pomp that blew up on Instagram, but also think outside the box with alternative styles and photoshoots. I think our styles can complement each other well and come up with some sick results. He’s also got great craic to go on the sesh with so we will get on well like! “Then Tariq is hands down the best Afro
barber I’ve seen. When I saw his work I presumed he was in LA or somewhere! I love the Welsh, sure my Mrs is Welsh! His flat tops are next level and I’m quite a novice at Afro hair so I’ve tons to learn from him.” On what the future holds “My first outing on stage with the Feds will be at HJ Live on the Fellowship Stage on Sunday 26th February so yeah, doesn’t get much bigger than that! Especially having the massive boots to fill of Simon Kibbler, who’s not only ridiculously good at fades, design work etc. but who is an absolute gent too. Back at Pro Hair Live my first ever show he couldn’t have been a better support to me. I’m not the best spoken or confident speaking onstage, my accent definitely doesn’t help, so I’m glad Joe Sloan is there MCing, that will be a huge help as he’s always been dead sound to me from day one and I love his editorial work too so I think we can bounce creative concepts off each other. “I know me landing this spot will no doubt be a shock to many, myself included, but I’m a grafter and obsess 24/7 about progressing and I’ll take everything in and upskill from my teammates: no better guys to learn from. I know there are many out there doing replications of the Feds’ work, barbers a lot more technically trained and polished than me but I guess I’m here to bring something new to the mix, a bit weird and alternative – so I guess I’m the polish remover! “I can’t wait to get cracking, it’s been a crazy 14 months since I did my first UK show so I’m buzzing to see what 2017 will bring. Watch this space…”
Paul was hand selected for the Young Feds – he brings something new to the team, a creative edge, a bit of cut and colour that makes him that crossover between barbering and men’s hairdressing. I love what he stands for, he loves to try new things all the time. He’s one of those lads, a risk taker. He’s the David Bowie of the team. Adam Sloan Founder of the MHFed BarberNV Magazine | 39
TrainingNV
Get the best out of your apprentice Words by: Joseph Lanzante
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pprenticeships are gaining more popularity and they are a fantastic way of educating someone in this trade to a high standard. However, there are actions you can take to ensure you get the best out of your apprentice and to make sure no one’s time is wasted. The first course of action is to ensure they are registered by a decent training provider such as VTCT (Vocational Training Charitable Trust) or City & Guilds. Once that is all clarified, you need to get to know the student to make sure the fit is right. They have got to be willing to put the time and effort in and so have you. It is important that they spend at least one night a week doing model nights. Practicing using the instruments on model heads will help them develop a steady hand and give them strong scissor and clipper handling skills. When undertaking an apprenticeship, the student cannot just sit in a classroom and expect to learn the trade so make sure they are in your shop at least one day a week. They need to be hands-on in the job and they have to
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want to do it. Giving them this industry experience is the key to developing their confidence and ability to work with real clients. Look for someone who is enthusiastic, passionate, and has a lot of questions. You can identify the people who want to do the job and those are just doing it because they didn’t know what else to do by spending time with them. You will have a problem training someone to a high standard who doesn’t really want to be there. Keep an eye out for apprentices who have a great personality and offer good customer service because this is half the battle. Teaching them to liaise well with clients should always be a strong focus as it could strengthen or destroy a relationship with potential returning customers. The final pointer is, don’t bombard students with information or throw them in at the deep end. Teach them basics, make them master them, and then build on those skills. That way they can feel confident in their knowledge, they will benefit from a thorough education and they are able to find their own style and creative flare from
the foundations you have set. To hear more from Joseph visit: www. josephlanzante.co.uk or call 01200 425 559 or follow Joseph Lanzante on Twitter @JosephLanzante
working with
REBEL REBEL GLASGOW “A great job by the team at Rem-Men. Working closely with the Design Team at REM we created our own Bespoke Emperor Barber Chairs perfectly branded with the Rebel Rebel logo. We are over the moon with them. A big thanks” – Alan Findlay Owner
sales@rem.co.uk
www.rem.co.uk
01282 619977
BarberNV Magazine | 41
J ackie Starr A F E A T U R E W I T H L A R R Y T H E B A R B E
MEET THE FEMALE BARBER WITH THE HEART OF A CHAMPION AND A STORY TO INSPIRE EVERY BARBERING SOUL
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hen I travel across the globe recording my Larry the Barber Man videos and interviews, I meet a lot of different barbers, and it’s impossible not to notice that the industry is still incredibly maledominated. While male barbers greatly outnumber the female barbers, more and more women are breaking into the industry and making a name for themselves. So, when I travelled to America I was delighted to catch up with another highly-regarded woman in the barbering industry – Jackie Starr, also known as the Iced Out Barber, and owner of Iced Out Barbershop in Las Vegas. Jackie has been cutting hair for 17 years now, starting all the way back in 2000 when she gained her barbering license, and since then has gone from strength to strength. I’m excited to delve into her story, discuss what it’s like to work with one of the greatest boxers of all time, Floyd Mayweather, whose hair she’s been cutting since 2009, and find out what advice she has for all the female barbers who are inspired by her story. Where it All Began For me, one of the most important things to learn about a barber is how they began their career. This is great information for younger barbers who may be wondering how to carve their own path, and an interesting insight into an individual’s motivations. When Jackie’s story began, she was surviving one of the most dangerous cities in the US – St. Louis, Missouri - and she tells me that becoming a statistic simply wasn’t an option. Jackie had her days of struggles and poverty: “To be honest, what motivated me at first was the money that I saw other barbers making, but that motivation turned into passion. Working with other barbers in a good environment just inspired me to want to be better and push forwards.” This led her into the hectic world of barbering and, being a single parent, it wasn’t always easy – for Jackie, though, success was an absolute must and she was determined to break into the traditionally male industry, overcoming all obstacles and shining through as one of the most successful women in the field. 17-years and an incredible amount of hard work later, Jackie has certainly managed to achieve that goal.
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Some barbers also choose to develop a particular style, but for Jackie it’s more important to deliver what the client wants. “I specialise in catering to the client, making the client feel like a million dollars whether they have that sort of money or not.”
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Landing a Star Client
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Many barbers dream of cutting hair for a high-profile customer, and with Floyd Mayweather Jackie’s been able to do exactly that. And, like a lot of the best things, it seems to have been a case of being in the
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He’s Floyd Mayweather, he can have any barber in the world cut his hair. A lot of barbers probably would love to be in my shoes Photos: Scott Vera, Level 9 Studios Las Vegas
right place at the right time: “Floyd and I have been friends since 2001; I used to work at a barbershop that he would come to - he already had a barber at the time. I think already, it was just something inevitable that was going to happen eventually. But him already having a barber, I never went to him and asked to cut his hair, it was something that just happened. We kept in touch, and this one particular day he called me up and asked me to come to his house. He was just cutting his hair with the clippers and I offered to help him.” Since this simple favour for a friend, Jackie has been working for Floyd, and reportedly earning a huge salary of around $1,000 a haircut. To keep his trademark look, Floyd will sometimes have his hair cut as many as three times a week, so it’s clear that this is a lucrative job for Jackie as well as a rewarding one. It just goes to show that with a little luck and a whole lot of determination, the barbers who make it within the industry can achieve financial success as well as professional esteem. Of course, all this comes at a cost for Jackie, as she has to be on call for Floyd and ready to travel across the world to keep him looking sharp. “Sometimes I’m in the middle of a meeting with my staff at 7.30 and I’ll get a text saying we’re leaving today, going to New York. If the job calls for it to be done, then it should be done: the best excuse is no excuse. “90% of it is trust. Because he’s Floyd Mayweather, he can have any barber in the world cut his hair. A lot of barbers probably would love to be in my shoes. So, I think the percentage of trust is very high. He can leave his money there, can leave his jewellery, he could leave me in his home or trust me with his kids. It’s a big factor.” Determination and the Route to Success
barbershop apart is that we’re a team, we’re a family.”
As I mentioned in the introduction, although there are increasing numbers of female barbers it’s still a male-dominated industry, and this leads me to wonder whether there are any unique challenges that Jackie faces as a female barber. She says that while “getting guys to see the vision and follow through with the plan” can be tough, most of the challenges she faces would present themselves to just about any barber: “It’s just what happens when working in a barbershop. What sets my
With such a long and interesting career, it’s difficult to make Jackie pick just one highlight, but after thinking for a few seconds she lands on a particularly rewarding moment which has made it all worthwhile: having Gladys Knight appear at their community event, all because her husband visited their barbershop. “Her husband came to the barbershop, and we just said let’s do something, let’s give something back to the community. She came, did an appearance, signed autographs, the news was there – that was one of the greatest moments, because it showed me that just because you’re a no-name, there’s greater things to come. That was one of my most honourable, proud moments because we were giving something back, cutting hair for the kids.” So, with such an inspiring career, it seems that Jackie is definitely the person to ask for advice that will help up and coming barbers, and female barbers in particular, reach for their goals. “Knock down all barriers. It goes back to how I feel about excuses, that the best excuse is no excuse. You can do anything you want to, you’ve just got to set your mind to it - but you’ve got to believe in you. So, I would tell that female barber to go for it. Just give it your all”. This is certainly advice that I can get behind, and it’s the same approach that’s driven me forwards in my own career. On a personal note, I was delighted to hear that Jackie has been able to use the Frequency60Hz Converter product that I developed to power her US clippers when in Europe with Floyd. It’s great to see what started as a personal project, stemming from my own love of US clippers, helping professional barbers. It was great to meet Jackie, and particularly inspiring to see somebody who’s not just proud of their own work, but also committed to the team that they work with; when a door opens for Jackie she likes to hold it so that others can benefit from the opportunity as well. I look forward to bringing you more barbering insights; in the meantime, interviews with other top barbers can be found on my Instagram page (@ LarrytheBarberMan), and on my barbers.tv YouTube channel. BarberNV Magazine | 43
ALANFINDLAY rebelrebel
Welcome back readers. So we are now well into 2017 and I’m sure all you fellow barbers out there enjoyed the spoils from the influx of extra Christmas-do haircuts filling the till and managed to down tools for a few days to get a good rest and recharge the batteries in preparation for the exciting year ahead. New Year always brings with it new ideas and hope for a new generation of young budding barbers pushing our craft onwards and upwards.
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So I want to start this year off by talking about a big controversial subject that always stirs the emotions. How much should a barber charge for his services? Ultimately what that comes down to is how much you value your precious time and the experience that your clients have. How much do you spend on each client? 10, 15 minutes? More? That then leads to the other profound barbering question of how much service time is enough to fully complete a professional service from the initial meet and greet to the drying and shaping of the last shaft of hair. Is it 25, 30 minutes? More again? So I read somewhere the other day that the average UK standard barber cut was £10 and for this day and age that still seems quite low compared to what we pay for most things these days and the price hasn’t shifted all that much over the last couple of decades. You could put that down to fierce competitive pricing for a sub-standard service over many, many years. So what does a measly 10 quid get you these days? Two pints at the local and maybe enough change for a couple of packs of cheese and onion. A half a day’s parking in the city or you could spend it on a luxury McDonald’s ‘not so happy’ meal with extra-large chips… or how about you go see a movie at cinema but for your tenner they would
have to throw you out 3/4 of the way through. Another way to look at it is take the typical guy’s outfit for the weekend: £100 on trainers, £120 jeans, £80 shirt, amounting to £300 on an outfit and topped off with a £10 haircut just doesn’t seem to fit. So you see what I’m getting at here, right? What do you think is a fair price for the time and effort you put in? The journey to becoming a good barber takes a lot of effort and patience, especially in the beginning, but around three years working five-days a week with clients will get you proficient in the clipper/scissor/drying skills but it will take many more years for you to master. That’s a lot of hours required not just at work but at home practicing on your granddad and co. and watching YouTube videos trying to pick up tips. Bear in mind there are still a lot of barbershops out there under cutting each other, charging as little as £5, certainly in more rural areas or small town main streets heavily congested with the barbershop bazaars. So in the pursuit of wealth and prosperity we humans are taught through our modern society and culture that this only comes from the acquisition of money but I would say that wealth and prosperity come from how you feel about what you are doing in your life. So if you are enjoying it, you are good at
it… and if you are good at it then you’ll get paid better than the not so good at it. There’s two schools of thought here: you can devalue your time and rush your work by cutting corners whilst undercutting your competitors in the hope that you get more clients than your neighbours but would you hold on to them? Or you can charge a fair price for your time and skill level whilst feeling good about your job, with a sense of pride for the service you’re providing, all along amassing regular happy clients who will go on to form the backbone of your future, your career, and your business. We barbers in the pursuit of forging our careers put as much effort, if not more than most other professions out there, so it’s about time you revalue your worth. Which mould do you fit? The conveyer belt barber always chasing customers and staff? Or the satisfied standout pro barbershop in the street who always seem to be busy? The choice is yours! Well that’s it for this issue, hopefully there was some food for thought in this article and if you have anything to add to what was said or have some other burning question get in touch at contact@salonnv.co.uk. Be the best you can be…
af
ASK ALAN? Big thanks for the loads of questions from the guys who took the time to write in, unfortunately we can’t print them all so here are a few of the best. Calum Wark asked: When do you think the barbering boom started? And what started it? AF: I would say the seeds were already sown by 2010 when it was obvious we had a culture shift in men’s attitude towards grooming and looking after themselves more. The boom coming when the hipster beard arrived around 2012 and its uber coolness put barbering back in the spotlight. When we formed the BOMB squad in 2010 there were already guys like Simon Shaw, Chris Foster, and MK making a name for themselves. Mark McCann asked: When we will see the end of the skin fade? AF: Hopefully soon! I’m pretty bored with them to be honest, but hair trends tend to go in cycles changing from decade to decade and the interesting thing with Instagram, which most of us barbers love and have, is that in 20 or 30 years from now we will be able to look back and see those trends in transition. Joe Ferguson asked: What would you recommend to help add texture to hair? AF: First thing I’d say is get your cut right if you want to add mega texture to the top - take thin horizontal sections across the top of the head and point cut from the ends about an inch deep in slight or deep angles depending on the amount of texture you want to create. Then add a prepping product like Kevin Murphy Hair Resort, finger drying this in with some root lift and shape the ends for the desired texture. Then add Kevin Murphy Night Rider just a little and shake through hair. Finish by shaping and directing the hair to your required style.
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Porters Owner: Bora Esen
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Porters: Keeping London handsome
ucked away in his Dulwich shop, Bora Esen has been quietly innovating and reinventing barbering as we know it since 2010. Taking traditional barbershop values from his Turkish heritage and combining them with the needs of the modern gentleman, Bora created Porters – a brand well and truly worth shouting about. If you haven’t heard of them until now, we don’t blame you. Rather than chase the fame and the limelight, Bora’s first ambition for Porters was to focus on providing a fantastic customer experience – indeed, this is his first ever interview. But with his Dulwich branch having recently undergone a stylish refit, he thankfully allowed us to sit down with him to discuss Porters and his passion for his craft. Turkish Delight Having left a career in the corporate world to follow his ambition of setting up his own barbershop, Bora knew it was important he drew on his personal experience. “The Porters concept and current barbering in general is predominantly inspired by my culture and heritage so I have a very personal attachment to it,” he tells us. “A barbershop in Turkey is not just seen as a local business but a place of friendship, relaxation and a total melting pot of people. I have been fortunate enough to witness this first hand as a child and for me it’s always been a dream to capture a similar ambience in my barbershops. People may not realise how
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difficult it really is to create that ambiance and that trust between you and the client. It’s once you overcome hurdles and certain situations with your customers that you can apply that heritage that I’m lucky to have behind me. “Look, we will never have a situation where we could install an intercom in our shops and press a button to ask for three black teas and two apple teas and an orange juice! But we can install a barista bar, a whiskey drinks cabinet, and a fridge full of ice cold beer.” Community Spirit Although he’s too humble to speak about it at length, Bora and the rest of the Porters team are active in the local area through various charities and events, helping to bring people together and keeping the barbershop at the very heart of the community. It’s an attitude and philosophy that has helped them settle into the neighbourhood well, and Bora understood the responsibility that comes with running a shop in an area with such history. Bora says: “Dulwich Village is a very old and a very important part of South East London, our clientele ranges from toddlers to great grandfathers and it’s a place where we sometimes have four generations having a haircut at the same time. So our shop has to be able to relate to everyone and also cater to everyone’s expectations. When I decided to refit the barbershop the brief I created
was very detailed and I drew most of the plans myself which didn’t come easy. “I wanted to make the shop feel like it had been there 100 years and play on our heritage as well as the heritage of the area and combine it with a few modern touches and details. As every barber knows good lighting is imperative in this business so we had bespoke lighting made to suit the decor mixed with a lot of rich textured like aged brass to lighten things up. I genuinely believe that this shop will be standing in a 100 years’ time as a barbershop and the decor won’t be changed much more than this.” Innovation While Bora has a healthy respect for the history that has inspired Porters, he is far from afraid to look to the future and make changes that could benefit not only his own barbershops, but the industry as a whole. Rather than go hunting for recognition, Bora has simply made his barbershop experience better for his clients and watched as the rest of the industry followed suit. “We have been a major part of the barbering boom, but I’m not one to shout about it – hence why this is the first interview I’ve ever agreed to,” Bora explains. “We don’t belong to any crew and haven’t showcased ourselves in any major barbering events, but believe me the techniques used in our barbershops today have mainly come to the UK from our Dulwich branch.
“We were using facial steamers for our shaves when our fellow friends were using Gillette Mach3s to shave their customers. In 2010 we started the shop with a treatment room offering facials, waxing, and sport massages, and even had a hand and feet spa section for the city gents that wanted good nails to match their sharp suits. I do feel now that the more traditional and stripped back and quick treatments work better for our clients so we have replaced those rooms with more barbering sections.” The Porters Team That innovation not only keeps Porters ahead of their competition but Bora’s professional outlook gives his talented staff the opportunity to really evolve their skills in a comfortable environment. Bora says he wants his shop to be a melting pot of people, and that goes just as strongly for his staff. “We have the most diverse team I have ever come across,” he says proudly. “I have been quoted than on a million occasions by our customers, suppliers and even staff. I run my business like a family and it’s very important that everyone coming into our business understands that. Our doors are open to everyone who is honest, hardworking, punctual and has a little sparkle of talent in their eyes. We could teach anyone to cut hair to a great standard but attitude and willingness has to come from within and that’s what I’m looking for.” That willingness to learn doesn’t only apply to his colleagues, Bora himself is keen to keep on improving alongside them, and prizes that above all other prizes. “When we started this journey I always said that my aim wasn’t to be the biggest or most award winning barber in the game, however I love learning, experimenting, then teaching new technique and different styles of barbering - especially mixing the old techniques with the new tools of today. Staying ahead of the competition doesn’t just come with great fades or amazing shaves, its new ways of serving customers, providing exceptional service, and earning clients respect and trust that will always keep us a step in front.” Future Plans With their Dulwich and Clapham shops proving to be valuable assets to the community, just as Bora had always dreamed, and new shops in Brixton and East Dulwich set to open soon, the Porters brand has big things on the horizon whether Bora shouts about them or not, and we’re delighted to call them our Barbershop of the Month. But Bora isn’t stopping there. “I want to create little gems scattered all around suburban London, where your friends can’t wait to be the first one to tell you about this wicked barbers! Like I said before, I’m not in this to win the most awards or be in the spotlight but I want everyone to know we have the best barbers in the world.”
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BEHIND THE BRAND The barbering industry has seen a lot of change over the past two decades, but through all the upheaval there has been one constant that barbers could rely on – Barber Equipment Centre.
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nitially a small part of the bigger Salon Equipment Centre, the growth and success of the barbering industry in recent years has seen them expand into their brand and over the past year they’ve made their presence known as regulars at trade shows and events up and down the country, not to mention having the largest furniture and equipment showroom in the UK. Director John Wright has been with the company since 2005 and is currently leading the charge as BEC continue to reach out to more and more barbers around the country. He’s a firm believer that the BEC brand speaks to barbers on a personal and professional level. “We have been in the industry now for 23 years, and we have built up an
Julie & John
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excellent reputation and confidence within the industry,” John answers when we ask how they’ve been received. “We are seen as the market leaders and our aim of the game is to always be ahead of our competitors. We also focus on customer service and we have new and established barbers coming to us to see what is happening next. There is a real sense of community amongst our barbers and we feel part of it; we have met some great characters over the years who have become friends as well as customers.” Having been known solely as Salon Equipment Centre for so long, it was always going to be a big decision to rebrand the barbering side as BEC, but John believes it helps that barbering has
always been a big part of their identity. He says: “Even when barbering wasn’t so popular it was a big part of our business. But we had never thought of giving it its own identity until last year. We made the BEC brand attractive to the barbering community: we gave it curiosity, character, and an identity just like a lot of barbers out there. We did our research and wanted to give the BEC brand that man appeal! “One thing BEC offers more than anyone else in the industry is choice. Not just a wide choice of new and preloved furniture but a choice of options available to them, especially with part-exchange, finance options, we buy cash paid, and also fully refurbished Takara Belmont barber chairs. BEC offer
it all. We understand the demands of the industry, whether it be a first time barber opening their first shop or the established barber refurbishing for the umpteenth time, we have the team here to offer unbiased help and advice.” All companies agree that the first year is always the hardest but BEC have now passed it with flying colours. Part of what helped establish the new brand so quickly was their presence at barbering events and the quality of product they are putting out. “The first BEC trade show was buzzing,” John tells us. “It was great to see old and new customers coming on to the stand and recognising who we were. Customers can now recognise the BEC brand with SEC and our great design in furniture that we personally have developed. “The latest ranges of chairs have been a hit right from the start, especially the Legion Barber Chair which we had on display at the trade shows. The attention this chair received was outstanding. It was just what barbers were looking for; the quality is as good as it is aesthetically. We know it’s a good as a couple of other companies have copied it which quite often happens when we bring new
designs out. It is quite uplifting to know others want to follow what we’re doing.” One aspect of the BEC brand that John is most proud of is the team they have assembled to give customers and clients the best possible experience when they choose BEC. He says: “The team is such an important part of BEC, no matter whether you are a director, a driver, or a cleaner, everyone is as important as one another. Everyone who works at BEC is equal and one can’t operate without the other. We would not be where we are today without every single person that works here. It’s amazing how many testimonials we receive about all our team members. Our team are truly dedicated to providing an excellent service, just as they always have been. “Like I said earlier, after 23 years in the industry, one of the things we are proud of is our reputation. Customers contact us just to pick our brains and use our vast knowledge for advice. Over the last few years we have been formalising this advice online. If you want to do business with us just read our testimonials – our customers’ words say it all.” As for John, he admits that his role in the team is changing.
“My wife Julie has been trying to get me to retire over the last five years, so more and more of the company will now be run by Tracy Fuller. She will be working with the team on developing new ideas and innovative designs, keeping an eye on where the industry is going and making sure we retain our position as leaders within the industry and also ensuring we meet the needs of the barbering industry both in supply and customer service.” Although there may be changes at the top, John is still leading the charge at BEC in terms of innovation and sounds excited about the future when we ask what we should expect next year. “Just watch this space! I’ve already got a few things up my sleeve, ready to launch in 2017. BEC are always looking forward and we don’t stop thinking of new ideas and ways to improve things. You have to keep a watchful eye out to see what is going to happen next. Not just new designs of furniture. “We have so much in the pipeline and being the market leaders there are no limits to where we can go at BEC. There will be no stopping us and the future certainly looks bright for BEC and our customers.” BarberNV Magazine | 49
to get a financial reward for it too, bonus! NV - That must really help out your customers! Tracy – Oh it does, it’s invaluable. Our testimonials reflect what we offer. Our aim is to be ahead of our competitors and also focus on customer service. We offer the full package, it is a very popular service of ours. Especially as we are adding more and more appealing furniture to our existing Premier range of barber furniture and we are in talks with suppliers to ensure we have products that our customers will want. NV – Where can we see all this brand new furniture?
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ollowing on from our exclusive interview with John Wright the Director of BEC/ SEC, we have managed to speak to Tracy Fuller, Sales and Marketing Manager, so we can delve more into what we can look out for this year as John was being a little secretive when we spoke with him. Tracy (laughing) – yes John does like to keep things a secret, but I am sure I can let you in on some of our exciting plans for this year. We have had to be more innovative with coming up with ideas to keep ahead of the game. Being in the industry for 23 years has helped us with the great positioning we have in the industry, especially with more competitors entering the market. NV – We can understand that, companies are definitely picking up on the huge demand for more and more barbershops. This year, how are you setting yourselves apart from the rest? Tracy – We understand the demands of the Industry and to kick start this year we are having a BIG SALE. We hope to bring in new customers and also continue to build relationships with existing ones too. It’s amazing, customers travel to us from all over the UK and beyond. I remember one year a customer travelled over from France on the Euro tunnel with a van, spent hours in our showroom, upstairs and downstairs, looking at both our new and preloved furniture, she was able to take everything away with her that day, she was one happy customer. I could tell you lots of stories like this but that will be for another day. Our part exchange service is a big hit too especially at this time of year as it allows people to update their furniture and also get a helping hand with the disposal of their old furniture and
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Tracy – We will be launching all our furniture on our website, across our email campaigns, in magazines and on social media (make sure you are following @ barberequip on Instagram). We also have the largest showroom of salon and barber furniture in the UK, where our furniture is on display. We have made some big changes to our showroom, including newly refurbished rooms and a complete different layout in our downstairs showroom which has preloved barber furniture passing through it daily, including refurbished Takara Belmont barber chairs. NV – I can see from my recent visit you’ve spent a lot of time and money on your showroom. Tracy – I think you’ll find it’s changed since you were last here, come again in six months and it will change again. We want to stay as the market leaders in the industry so it’s important to us that we are on top of what is happening and always moving forward. Customers who come along to our showroom will see the launch of our brand new vintage room, full of weird and wonderful barbering and hairdressing antiques and everything in between, which is only available to view and buy in the showroom. NV – That’s different, why did you decide to go with this new venture? Tracy –23 years’ experience and knowledge of the industry, we are always thinking of innovative ways to appeal to our customers. We saw a gap in the market and noticed that this memorabilia is popular within the hair and barbering industry and wanted to offer our customers something different. Not only memorabilia from the industry, but the room is full of weird and wonderful stuff that will appeal to everyone. I love it, it’s a real education finding little gems we used to use many years ago, some of which we have had a fun time guessing what they are. You must come and have a look for yourself. Curiosity is a wonderful thing. NV – How exciting! We wish you all the best with 2017 and we look forward to getting updates during the year.
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LARRY VISITS LSB Ding-a-Ling-a-Ling: the bell rings as BarberNV sends Larry the Barber Man back into the classroom! At not just any school, either, but the acclaimed London School of Barbering, where I went through their two-day accredited Wet Shaving Course.
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fter years spent surrounded by barbering and grooming professionals, this resulted in me obtaining my first qualification in the grooming industry: the ITEC Level 3 Award in Providing Shaving Services (merit). While I usually use this column to bring you information about the brightest stars in the barbering industry, today I’m doing something a little different – giving a detailed account of an incredibly popular course from my own experience. So, if you’re curious about whether or not this course is for you, you’ll find all the info you need to make an informed decision… and here’s a little spoiler: I thoroughly recommend it! Setting the Scene As somebody with no prior barbering experience (except for self-cutting my own hair!), it’s safe to say that I was a little nervous. However, I’ve heard so many wonderful things about this course from the ex-students that I’ve interviewed during my web series that I
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simply had to give it a try, and find out whether it really lives up to the hype. Five weeks before the sell-out course was due to take place, the London School of Barbering sent out a comprehensive welcome pack which went some way to assuaging my nerves, letting me know exactly what to expect. It also laid out all of the details that every grooming professional needs to know about giving an excellent shaving service – and students are expected to swat up and make sure they’re familiar with the details before they arrive. That’s because, once you turn up for day one of the course, the first test is a quick and reasonably straightforward multiple choice quiz that will check your knowledge on these fundamentals. After this is completed, the students gather around Henry – our course tutor – to watch and ask questions as he gets straight into demonstrating a wet-shave. An important thing to note is that there are only ever six students at one time.
Larry The Barber Man
A feature with Larry The Barber Man
This is great, because it means that everybody has ample opportunity to talk to the instructor and get the one-onone tuition that really does make all the difference. Step One: Getting to Grips with the Razor Henry’s demonstration took us step by step through a full, luxurious hot towel shave, with each individual step explained in full. We were all able to ask plenty of questions about the process and Henry’s technique, and he was happy to give clear and informative answers. Then, once the demonstration was complete, it was onto our practical lesson.
disposable tissue on your client’s chest, you need to be able to clean the razor by moving the blade in the opposite direction to the one you used when making your shaving pass. As you can’t use your other hand to clean the blade, you need a simple system for flipping the blade in order to clean it safely and securely using just the tissue, and this is something we were taught to master. Failure to do this will result in a messy razor, messy fingers on your razor hand, and ultimately lead to a far worse experience for the client – something that I’ve learned through the experience of shaving myself with a cut throat razor, prior to attending the course. • Finally, this allows you to keep your non-shaving hand completely clean: vital, since this is the hand you’ll use to stretch the client’s skin as you shave them. Stretching the skin is a crucial part of any shave, as not doing this means that your razor may puncture the client’s skin… every barber’s worst nightmare. Before this practical tutorial was over, we had one last challenge: applying lather to a balloon filled with water and practicing our new skills. This meant using the two strokes that we had just learned to ‘shave’ the balloon, and then flipping the blade to safely wipe away the lather. So, if you’re using a forehand stroke on your client then you need to be able to flip to backhand as you clean the blade, and vice versa. The balloon was a great touch, as if it burst during the practical then that would mean in a real shaving experience you would have just given your client a bad cut.
This involved finding out the correct way to hold a cut-throat razor, as well as the two important strokes that every shaving professional should know, forehand and backhand. We were also given a full explanation of why mastering both of these strokes is so important: • First of all, it gives you option to shave your client in a wider range of positions – this means that you can always shave well no matter where you are standing in relation to the client. • Secondly, understanding these two strokes will make it significantly easier to clean the cut throat razor thoroughly with just your shaving hand. After resting
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Larry The Barber Man
Step Two: Delivering a Real Shave After this practical lesson was over it was time for a lunch break – a great opportunity to think over everything we had just learned, since after lunch the bigger challenge would begin: shaving real clients. Just like in a real barbershop, clients walked into the London School of Barbering off the street and we were given the opportunity to put our new skills to the test. At this point, I found that I was lagging behind the other students a little… after all, they were already barbers, which meant that they already knew how to prepare a station ready for service. This put me at a stark disadvantage, since I had to learn the real basics, like how to pump and recline a barber’s chair, putting the cape on the client, and using a clipper to remove the client’s beard to a level where it was ready to be wet shaved. Luckily, with the assistance of the tutor and after personally shaving 3 models, this little stumbling block was overcome and I quickly caught up with the barbers. This meant I was ready to follow the steps I’d been taught in Henry’s live demo and the morning’s practical lessons. Here are the key steps that we were taught to put into practice: • Before starting to shave any client, it’s important to consult with them, and examine the beard area for any contraindications that may mean a certain product or technique can’t be used. • Step One - Cleanse the clients face with a wet sponge that has been soaked in Barbicide and then rinsed thoroughly. • Step Two – Exfoliate the client’s skin with facial scrub, to remove the dead skin cells and allow for a closer and cleaner shave, then cleaning it off. • Step Three – Test the heat of a hot towel with the client before wrapping
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their face with it to open the pores and relax the skin. • Step Four - Finish mixing the shaving lather, and lay disposable tissue across the client’s chest. • Step Five - Lather your client’s face with a shaving brush to prepare the face for the blade, and to lift the whiskers for a more thorough shave. • Step Six - Follow the numbered shave sequence outlined in the face shaving map provided by the LSB. This shave map showed the order in which different areas of the beard should be shaved: a great resource for beginners. • Step Seven - Clean up the face with warm water, and apply a second hot towel. If necessary, perform a second shave pass in the opposite direction using a gel or oil instead of lather, and clean the face once again with warm water. • Step Eight - Apply a cold towel to close down client’s pores and stop bacteria getting in once they leave the salon. • Step Nine – Use a moisturising product and massage the client’s face to bring the moisture back to their skin. Thanks to Henry’s informative demonstration, and the experience we already had from the morning’s session, I felt surprisingly confident as I tried out my skills on real clients for the first time. As somebody without any previous barbering experience, I was in a unique position throughout the course – so I was very impressed at just how well they prepared me for the client-facing experience in such a short space of time! The Larry the Barber Man Seal of Approval After the personal experience that I had at the London School of Barbering, I’m ready to say without a doubt that I can give it my seal of approval, and
thoroughly recommend the Wet Shave course to any barber who wants to add this skill to their repertoire. While you might not be ready to immediately start charging for a full-priced luxury shave, you will be ready to go out onto the shop floor, be honest with your clients about your level of experience, and start delivering a great shave. My personal recommendation would be to charge a reduced rate, and use this opportunity to master each of the LSB’s shaving steps. Soon enough, these will become second nature - and then you’ll know that you’re ready to offer the full luxury shave. As more and more clients are looking for the wet shave experience, this is a skill that’s really in demand, so I think that every barber can benefit from attending the LSB’s course and learning how it should be done! And remember, if you’d like to see more of my barbering exploits then head on over to my Instagram (@ LarrytheBarberman) and YouTube channel (barbers.tv) for a wealth of content.
Bosun’s Ba r bers
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ormer cruise-ship barber Tony Winder has created a nautical-themed nod to his 55-year career with the opening of Bosun’s Barbers The director of salon Antony and Patricia, in Rawtenstall, Lancashire, will celebrate his 70th on February 7th and to celebrate he has gone back to his roots to open the traditional 1920s-style barbershop. Bosun’s Barbers is on the upper deck of Antony and Patricia, and it reflects Tony’s history from when he first went to sea in 1969 as a cruise ship’s barber and his vast collection of memorabilia. Initially he served on the SS Southern Cross then SS Oriana when he circumnavigated the globe several times. Three ship’s windows have been cleverly converted into mirrors and reflect Tony’s career, barber’s clippers have become coat hooks and every pair of snips he has used in his trade hang from a display board. Having been at sea since he was 22, mainly with the Merchant Navy,
and acting as ship’s barber on aircraft carrier HMS Eagle while it was in dry dock, and finally at HMS Raleigh. Tony also honed his craft while on leave from the navy, working as camp barber at Butlins in Filey and Minehead. He eventually jumped ship for good 47 years ago when he opened his first salon on Newchurch Road in Rawtenstall with his former wife and partner Particia. Outside the salon and barbershop they’ve installed a renovated, rare 1966 Dexter’s barber’s pole and stand by their motto of ‘when the pole is spinning, we are trimming’. A map of the world is testament to Tony’s travels, while he says the 1930s barber’s chairs take him back to cutting hair on the ocean waves. Tony is holding an official opening for clients and friends at Bosun’s Barbers on Sunday February 26 from 4pm-7pm. Contacts Phone: 01706 217129 www.bosunsbarbers.co.uk
82 B a n k St reet, R aw te n st all, La nc a sh i re
K ing Koby
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rom a basement store with one chair and no customers, King Koby has grown into an eight-chair shop serving 500 customers a week in Leeds and now they are opening their second store in York. Their astounding success can be put down to any number of factors – their quality, their value, their pride in what they do – but we think their family values have to be a main contender. With 13 full-time team members all earning their living under the King Koby banner, and King Koby himself being the son and nephew of their founders, this is a true family affair. While the effects of the family can’t be understated, the brand got their start in the barbering trade when an out-of-work barber with talent and a work ethic to match walked into their then business and asked for somewhere to cut hair. That man was Sandy Minto and the Koby team have him to thank for starting their cause.
The team pride themselves on being a product of the people they have surrounded themselves with, and on their founding principles of community, altruism, brotherhood, and empathy. More than just words, the team put this into action by undertaking a community-based project at least once a month, from homeless soup kitchens to children’s hospital fundraisers. With a burgeoning clothing line as well that includes everything from gilets to bags, caps to jackets – which you can check out in our apparel section – the only way is up for this Yorkshire brand with big ambitions. But at the heart of it all is still top quality barbering and great customer service. With a motto like ‘mediocrity is a sin’, you know the King Koby team won’t be resting on their laurels any time soon. You can book online via their website kingkoby.com or phone 0113 245 9747 Opening hours: Mon - Sat 10:00 - 18:30 Thurs 10:00 - 20:00
K i ng Koby 2 , 143 Br iggate, LS1 6BR
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FASHION WEEK Men’s Fashion Week AW 17 When the world’s top designers descend on London and Milan for Men’s Fashion Week, they need the best products and best stylists to offset their clothes. Fudge Professional were called upon by no fewer than three designers over the fashion extravaganza, while Howard McLaren, Thom Priano, and Garren’s brand R+Co helped to complement Blood Brother’s London influenced look and three top designers in Milan. Take a look at some of the styles
Blood Brother RIVER OF DREAMS Looking into the more abstract quirks that London has to offer, Blood Brother took the bulk of their inspiration from the River Thames, while lining it to iconic buildings that share the river’s bank and the subcultures of the various people who were dependent on the river for their survival. Jan Przeymk used R+Co to get the look just right, with the hair influenced by London youth culture and the concept of the models being on the streets with their hair weathered similarly.
Christopher Raeburn MILITARY CUT Avant-garde British designer Christopher Raeburn is known for his using re-appropriated military fabrics in his designs which certainly fits in well with his role as Artistic Director of Victorinox, and his London Fashion Week show was no different. Cyndia Harvey for Fudge Professional’s look went for a play on the tension between the deconstruction and reconstruction within the collection. A strong military look from the front with a textured finish towards the back.
Federico Curradi FEED THE GOOD WOLF Inspired by an old Cherokee proverb about feeding the wolf inside yourself with love and kindness, Federico Curradi’s inaugural Milan Fashion Week collection is an eco-friendly take on the tale, with Jan Przemyk using R+Co to create hair combining prospector chic and Bob Dylan.
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Topman Designs GREASE AND GRIND The biggest of high-street brands, Topman have still never been scared to take on more unique and original styles to supplement their catwalk looks. This shines through in particular with the Topman Design show at London Fashion Week. The brand’s premium collection called on Matt Mulhall for Fudge Professional to fuse punk/rave styles with working-class dock workers. The result was raw, lived-in hair with a natural shine that is touchable and malleable. Its loose texture and jagged edges take inspiration from the dock workers and the raving scene.
Katie Eary SLEEPY SEXY COOL Known for going against the established order and creating looks and designs that flip stereotypes upside down, Katie Eary’s London Fashion Week look was that of the most glamorous pillow fight ever, with models in pyjama styled outfits. Again it was Cyndia Harvey for Fudge Professional, who went for a modern take on the 70s sex scene and the days of glamorous parties. With the ultimate 70s bed hair, as if they had fallen asleep after getting dressed and ready to go out whilst waiting for the girls.
DAKS London CAPITAL INSPIRATION Painting the picture of a London that breathes ambition and talent, the DAKS Milan Fashion Week show was a story of success that leaves the doors to the financial districts halfopen for passers-by to get a glimpse into the lives of the distinguished English bankers and dandy businessmen. To make the hair match the ambition, Jan Przemyk used R+Co to create a look crossing 1930s police with railway inspector.
Ermanno Scervino INTERNATIONAL PLAYBOY Florentine designer Ermanno Scervino is never ordinary. He loves to combine leisurewear and tailored suits, slim and relaxed options, manly patterns such as Prince of Wales and dogtooth with innovative technical processes. Using R+Co, Jan Przemyk dressed the hair according to its natural movement, but off the face for that international jetsetter look.
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Aesthetics
Is your daily coffee ruining your face?
The effects of going dairy-free With over eight million takeaway coffees purchased every day in Britain, it’s fair to say that a hefty number of us enjoy getting our daily caffeine fix on the way to work. And while many of us think that we’re being healthier by ordering a soya latte or another dairy-free option such as almond milk, have you ever considered the damage that this so-called ‘healthy choice’ is having on your face? A dairy-free diet can dramatically affect the skin and bones of our faces in ways that you probably hadn’t considered, but there are procedures that can help to rectify the damage caused by dietary changes. If you’ve gone dairy-free this January and are feeling suitably smug whenever you order soya milk in Starbucks, consider this: soya milk is often sweetened with sugar (up to 12g of it per carton!) to match it to naturally-sweet cows’ milk. Not only is this not ideal for your teeth or your waistline, but it can have a major effect on your face too: sugar molecules bind to proteins such as collagen in the skin, which causes a loss of firmness and the start of premature wrinkles forming. As collagen breaks down, skin becomes less elastic, thinner and drier, and we lose our even skintone. This all contributes to a dull, aged complexion. We know that good skin health with clinically proven systems will help combat these effects – products containing ingredients like grapefruit oil, such as Ermana’s Cleanse Balm, or vitamin C, like ZO Skin Health Ossential C-Bright Serum will help to brighten skin and to keep collagen
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production stable, but for more severe cases, Botox and fillers will help to lift the face and give skin a youthful boost. Lack of collagen can affect the face in different areas; losing the fullness in the cheeks and forehead is another side effect of the loss of collagen, which usually happens naturally as we age, but can be aggravated and accelerated by external factors. The cheeks can atrophy and fall down our face, deepening nasolabial folds and marionette lines, which gives us a sad look to the face. We can use fillers in the cheeks to help
unfold the nasolabial lines and restore cheeks to their former youthful height, and using a thin sheet of filler in the forehead can re-establish a youthful convexity. Another issue that going dairy-free can cause is that we lose the high dose of calcium we receive from the milk we consume so regularly - in those takeaway coffees, on our cereal, in that last cup of tea before bedtime. In particular, the
bones of the eye socket, the chin, and the area between the upper lip and the nose will erode with age, which can cause tissue to sag and result in a fast-tracked ageing process that can leave us looking far older than our years. In the same way that our body loses bone density, so does our face. Eye sockets expand, which makes the eyes look deep set, sunken, and tired. There are two dynamics that happen in the ageing face, which can be exacerbated by dietary choices: bone expansion and bone resorption. We lose bone density in the maxilla and mandible (upper and lower jawbone respectively). This causes an appreciable reduction in facial height and a moderate increase in facial width and depth. To keep the jawbone defined and the face looking youthful, I would recommend filler in the cheek and chin area to lift and elongate the face, and a very smooth, thin filler to restore lost volume under the eyes. If you are a dairy-free fiend these days, all is not lost – of course calcium intake can be boosted with plentiful green vegetables such as broccoli, spinach, and kale, as well as almonds, figs, and oranges. It’s so important that of course, however you choose to live, you are eating a healthy, balanced diet. Going dairy-free or vegan is of course a lifestyle choice and for many an ethical one, but for those who are cutting out major food groups, it’s key to replace those lost vitamins and minerals wherever you can, for the good of your health, and of course, for the good of your skin!
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Jiggi
Photography: Arron Dunworth
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JIGGY
Showca se
Por tfol io
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BBA – Kings Row Hair: Chris Foster
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HAIR SHAPER THE ORIGINAL. 25 YEARS AND STILL GOING STRONG
GREG CORNTHWAITE, PERSONAL TRAINER WITH A PASSION FOR HEALTH,PERFORMANCE AND OPTIMAL BODY COMPOSITION. find your stockist on: fudgeprofessional.com
fudgehair
Hair by London School of Barbering Art Team | londonschoolofbarbering.com BarberNV Magazine | 63
Dark Knights
Hair: Alejandro Azurmendi at Centro Beta Assistant: Laura Irure Make-up: Centro Beta Styling: Visori Fashionart Photography: David Arnal
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The 1%ers
Hair and Whiskers: Dan Rix at The Company Of Master Barbers Photography: Jess Middlebrook at JM Photography Styling: American Crew
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Scotland’s Best Barber 2016 Stacey McCabe Collection: Classic Collection Photography: David Raccuglia
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Natalie Allen at Harvey Luke hair Assistant: Kyle Sewards of Harvey Luke hair Photography: Liam Enser at Artifex studio Make-up: Laura Parker at Freya Mae beauty Models: Ryan Brough and Luke May
Milk Art Team
Hair: Roy Rogers Joe Simpson Kelsey Purves Photography: Paul Marr Make-up: Jeni Smith BarberNV Magazine | 67
Tag @Barbe rNVmag to featur azine e your wo rk! @ david_hardgrind
@ chelsee_barbershop
@ firstborn_p
@ jordanoneill96
@ evanhutchinsonhair
@ jamesbossbarberingrowe
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@ iamjakehughes
Showcase @ olliefosterbarber @ savillsbarbers
@ melissatoft86
@ justmikethatsme
@zana_thebarber @ tomchapman_tcxhd @ trimz_barbershop BarberNV Magazine | 69
TOM CHAPMAN
FOR THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE - SIDE PARTED POMP
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Create It
•
Using the natural parting create an asymmetric horseshoe section and clip it away
•
Starting at the temple and working back to meet at the nape, put in your blank canvas of a grade two then freehand graduate
•
it in preparation to blend into the top. Put in your shortest grade at the hairline and work through the grades to blend up and through. Then use trimmers and a razor to line up.
•
Release the top and blend it into the sides over directing the top to leave length for pomp.
•
Dry with pomp brush and finish with pomade.
Maintain it Be sure to wash you hair to give you the best final result. Apply the new Bluebeards salt mist and dry with a pomp brush to give you height and shape. Then finish with the pomade.
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A walk down Havana’s Barber’s Alley
An exclusive BarberNV feature with Dayna Cakebread While there’s no doubt we’re in the middle of a barbering boom in the United Kingdom that has done wonders for the trade, it pales in comparison to the one that hit Cuba just before the turn of the millennium.
A
literal revolution hit a small area in Havana and the cultural impact has seen an entire community of hairdressers and barbers boosted to unparalleled levels of success in a previously deprived and struggling area. Known locally as Callejon de los Peluqueros, or Barber’s Alley, it boasts the Artecorte Salon among its pedestrianised piece of barbering heaven. The inspiration behind the project is the godfather of Cuban barbering, Gilberto Vallaredes, known as Papito (Daddy). A barber and hairdresser for over 30 years, he started the Artecorte projects back in 1999 and has watched them grow into a cultural phenomenon. ARTECORTE PROJECTS
Gilberto ‘Papito’ Vallaredes
Artecorte Salon is home to the largest barbering museum in the world, including a barber-themed art collection and historic barber tools. Highlights include a barber’s chair from 1880 and a razor from 1900. But it’s more than just a salon and a museum, Artecorte conceives and produces a wide range of projects for the community. It’s born from Papito’s own childhood and his intense desire to help those around him.
Dayna Cakebread 72 | BarberNV Magazine
“After high school I had to go in the military,” he tells us when we ask about how he started down his own path to barbering. “I had heard you could be trained as a barber for the military instead
of doing service time, so I signed up as a military barber. I feel that this decision saved my life because it gave me purpose and meaning since I didn’t know what I wanted to be. When I was done with the service I worked for some time in a salon, then in 1999 I decided to open a salon in my family’s front room. There was no way to find any new salon furniture in Cuba so I started my collection on old historic tools. My first barber’s chair was an old chair from the 1950s.” This happy accident was the beginning of Artecorte and Papito had the foresight to actively grow his collection of everything barber related by combining it with his other passion. He says: “My best friend from childhood had become a famous painter, Roberto Gonzalez. He gave me a painting of barbering art to celebrate the opening of the salon. Before I was a barber I was an artist so I asked all my artist friends to donate barber art pieces and this is how my collection has grown. My two worlds of passion have made a deep connection.” From that moment in 1999, the Artecorte projects began, starting with an annual barber’s festival that travels around Cuba celebrating the recipient of the first barber’s license in the country in 1552. Papito says it is an “open invitation for all hairdressers and barbers to come together. “Then in 2009 I had the vision for the beauty school to give back to the
community. From there I saw that I could connect some of the missing pieces with the people around me. I decided I wanted to give back to other barbers and hairdressers across Cuba. It’s given me the opportunity to unite people together. We all have something to give, so when I see a solution to a problem, I set out to build a new project. “Hairstyling helped me find my way and gave me my passion. It is a form of art to transform. I see hair as art. But as a barber I also see the lives of all these people. I reach many people and I see the opportunity to give back.” SCISSORS FOR CUBA Papito can’t do it all himself however, and while Artecorte projects have been immensely successful in Havana at turning the local area into an economic success and providing work and opportunities for the neighbourhood, he is calling on barbers around the world to help with his next project.
THE FUTURE OF BARBER’S ALLEY With over three decades of experience in hairstyling behind him, Papito is beginning to look at expanding the Artecorte projects more and more, increasing their reach and improving the lives of more people than ever. He tells us: “Beginning in 2017 I will stop cutting hair in order to dedicate my time to managing these projects and building new ones. My goal is to find like-minded people, both in Cuba and abroad, who can contribute to what I am doing, and to inspire similar projects globally. Through our different programs I see an opportunity for Artecorte to help more and more individuals transform their lives. The idea is to help people to also give back to each other. It is my dream that this giving to others will continue and spread.”
“Artecorte is currently seeking help from the international stylist community to build a new sculpture in Barber’s Alley in Old Havana,” he explains. “It will be the centrepiece of the Artecorte art collection for the public. “This sculpture is a 9-foot tall set of shears built with used scissors contributed by stylists from around the world. This sculpture symbolises the unity of all barbers and hairstyliests, and it demonstrates what we can accomplish when we work as one.” You can join the scissor monument project by sending your old or broken scissors. Akito Scissors are just one of the many British brands already involved. Get details at www. scissorsforcuba.com
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It’s hard to quantify the number of people Papito has helped over the years. His initiatives have sparked an economic boom: creating jobs, fostering community spirit, and securing livelihoods. While naturally our focus is wholly on barbering, Papito’s isn’t. Artecore conceives and produces a wide range of projects for community renovation and professional training. These projects cover four fields: community, historic, cultural, and humanitarian. Examples include training for hairstylists and bartenders, education for the hearing impaired, weekly events for senior citizens, and a community playground (featuring barber-themed slides, swings, etc.) It’s been fully embraced by not only the surrounding area, but the whole of Cuba, who are justly proud of the way the Artecorte projects have grown from charitable endeavour to its own tourist industry, bringing valuable money from outside into the community. For a country with a chequered economic past this can’t be downplayed. Dayna met up with one of the many beneficiaries of Papito’s philanthropy, a member of Artecorte Beauty School’s first graduating class in 2011, Migdael Ricardo. Before meeting Papito he was an economics teacher in a Havana high
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school, but now his life has changed completely. “When I was little I loved cutting my friends’ hair,” he reminisces when asked about his start in barbering. “I really loved art but I wasn’t very good at painting or drawing. Haircutting was more natural for me, so when I heard about Papito’s Artecorte Salon, Museum, and Beauty School, something inside sparked my curiosity. “I remember the day I met Papito in 2009 because I was so impressed with his passion for hair and art – I knew I had to come back to watch him every day for a month. Then I missed a day. When I returned to watch again, Papito asked if I would assist him until the school opened in 2010. I never looked back.”
Migdael and Dayna
He certainly didn’t. Now aged just 31, Migdael owns two salons in Havana, while still volunteering one day a week for two hours at Artecorte teaching middle school beauty students aged 12-16. It’s this giving back that has always set the Havana barbering trade apart and Migdael is delighted to be a part of it alongside the many other talented barbers and stylists. “I feel a lot of pride for helping others and working with the community. It’s an honour. “We have many hairdressers of all
Famed Cuban barber Chino
talents coming to share their passion. I always learn something new, but I am most influenced by Papito and Chino because their passion always inspires me. I learned the artistic side of hair from Papito and Chino gives me the technical training. Having this community family is important in our industry, otherwise it would lose its depth.” It’s not just about charity and humanitarianism, the quality of barbering in Cuba is as high as anywhere, in the UK or around the world. As you’ve heard, both Papito and Migdael are inspired by artistic creation and it shows in the calibre of their work. Migdael says that’s one of the aspect he enjoys most about being a barber. “Getting to express my creativity first, and then the pride in creating transformations for my clients. It’s important to me that my clients feel good about their hair and themselves. It’s an amazing feeling I get with each client. I see art in hair, it’s the closest I can be to an artist.” And Migdael hopes that his talent and work-rate won’t go unnoticed when the big boys come calling to Cuba looking for the next big thing. “There has been talk about L’Oreal coming to Cuba to
choose a few Cuban hairdressers to train in Holland,” he says. “I would love to go because the experience would be another learning experience that would also influence my creativity. I love to learn. You can get stuck when you stop learning, and I want to continue to grow no matter what. It’s not just about technical education, it’s also the human experience and the living art around us. I dream of building many more salons so I can share the gifts I have learned along my journey.”
Active Projects: •
Beauty School (includes a large number of hearing impaired young adults)
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Middle school beauty program once a week
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Senior Citizens’ Music Fest every Wednesday
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Bartender School
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Down Syndrome cooking school weekly
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Young elementary art program on Saturdays
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Barber’s Park playground and children's events
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Soccer youth program
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Annual barbering Events and celebrations: August 26th and December 27th
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Scissor sculpture global monument
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Step-by-step guide
Step 1 The beginning...
FINDLAY FACTS
In medieval London barbers placed bowls of their clients’ blood in a shop window as a marketing tool and kind of reminder to passersby that they might be due a blood-letting.
Clients with longer hair can be a challenge, but Sid Sottung and Lock, Stock and Barrel show us how unruly can become trendy. 76 | BarberNV Magazine
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Take a profile section down the centre of the head on top. Cut a triangle shape working with layering technique.
Proceed to take sections across the head on the top, creating a square shape.
Take vertical sections in the back area, also creating a square shape. Make sure you drop the outline out to keep any desired length or weight.
Step 5
Step 6
Step 7
Proceed to the sides using vertical sections. Create a slightly conceived angle to compensate for the ear area.
Repeat on the other side.
With the use of point cutting, cut the perimeter to the desired length.
Step 8
Step 9
Step 10
Follow the cutting line towards the front towards the face.
Crosscheck your internal areas.
Apply Preptonic as a blow-drying spray. Proceed to blow-dry.
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
In order to create a textured feeling, use a point cutting technique to create movement and freedom in the haircut.
With the use of Pucka grooming cream, style the hair to enhance the texture.
Use scissor over comb method to refine the shape.
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Robert Rix Words f rom the Wise
Well, with all the madness and money making associated with the annual Christmas rush behind us, I thought it appropriate that we should turn our attention to the year ahead and consider the implication of the news that emerged just before the Christmas break; the fact that the most radical change to craft training for many years has come to the fruition in the form of a revised approach being made to training course content and structure, and most importantly, to apprenticeships funding. Robert Rix, SHR SRSB MCH MCB
F
or us, at The Company of Master Barbers, we had turned our back long ago on the current structure of training course delivery preferring to only deliver courses at Master Class level in our academy. Let me first outline the fundamental reasons for the need for a national change:- For far too long the quality of students being produced by both private training providers and FE colleges has been pitifully low. In essence the trainees were not fit for purpose and quite frankly the blame could not be levelled against the trainees themselves as they we simply being put through an outdated and inappropriate training regime; nor could blame be placed upon the shoulders of the training providers, as they have been tasked with delivering a less than adequate curriculum. Briefly moving on to my own situation; through circumstance I have 78 | BarberNV Magazine
had to wear not two but three very different caps during the recent past. Cap number one was that of the disgruntled employer who was dissatisfied with calibre and proficiency of the students being produced by the, then, current system. Cap number two was that of course deliverer in the guise of a further education lecturer – who despite any personal feelings to the contrary was forced by the constraints of his employment to deliver the accepted course to his students. The third cap to be placed on my head was gained by virtue of cap one and two. I was invited by the National Hairdressers Federation to join the embryonic Trailblazer initiative in order to give my dual opinions on the state of all things relating to current apprentice training. In the early days of the Trailblazer initiative the discussion group contained representatives from
both the men’s and lady’s side of hairdressing and also some from the beauty industry. With BarberNV being quite definitely partisan in terms of its readership I will restrict my comments to the impact it will have on the men’s side of the craft. As my knowledge and remit extends only to England, rather that of the whole four of the home nations, l will confine my comments to England only but where I can I will highlight where different criteria apply to the other home nations. So what are Trailblazers? The Trailblazer groups are composed principally of employers, who are responsible for setting apprenticeship standards in England: what an apprentice should know and be able to do before they are ready to work in hairdressing, barbering. The groups include large, medium, and small employers and are supported by the NHF and Habia.
What’s the difference between apprenticeship frameworks and standards? Apprenticeship frameworks are being phased out and replaced by ‘hair professional’ Trailblazer standards from May 2017. The Trailblazer groups have now developed apprenticeship standards at level 2 and these have been approved and published by the government. The hair professional standards include: hairdressing and barbering. The new standards are set at a higher level than the apprenticeship frameworks and include some knowledge, skills, or behaviours which were at level 3 in the old frameworks, being phased out. Further hair standards for level 3 are under development, expected to be available for delivery in 2018 (these will apply to ladies hairdressing only because the barbering course will now run to an enhanced level 2. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/ apprenticeship-standard-hair-professional When will the new standards be available? Although the hair apprenticeship standards are now published, and the hair professional assessment plans have just been published, but as they include new qualifications which still have to be developed, the hair professional standards will not be available for delivery until May 2017. The new qualification will be assessed as learners progress through their two year apprenticeship programme (minimum delivery time will be 372 days). The final part of the qualification is the end-point assessment. Apart from the end-point assessment, all assessment will be carried out by the training provider/centre as specified by the awarding organisations. So how will you know what learners should be taught? The Employer’s Occupational Brief sets out the detailed information about what learners should be able to do and what they should know and understand for each part of the apprenticeship standards and for each unit of the Diploma for Hair Professionals (Hairdressing/ Barbering). The Employer’s Occupational Brief is freely available on the NHF website (www.nhf.info/ apprenticeships) and on the Habia website (www. habia.org/apprenticeships). And how are the new standards assessed? The Trailblazer groups are also responsible for developing assessment plans which specify what will be assessed, how it will be assessed and who can carry out the assessment. An independent apprenticeship examiner will observe learners carrying out specified practical tasks, set out in the assessment plan. They will also use oral questioning to check the learner’s knowledge, skills, and understanding, also set out in the assessment plan. The end-point assessment will be graded based on the learner’s overall performance. And, now that there is the option for a student to fail the test, can learners retake the end-point assessment? Yes, but they must re-do the whole assessment. They cannot retake just parts of the assessment because it is a holistic assessment. At the time of writing, there is no time limit on the number of retakes. However, there will be additional costs for any retakes which are unlikely to be covered by funding. It would be good practice for employers to ensure that they only enter learners for the end-
point assessment when they are confident that they are competent in all the skills, knowledge, and behaviours required for the end-point assessment. The end-point assessment will be done by independent apprenticeship examiners, appointed by assessment organisations, who have no connection with the learner, the employer, or the training provider. For the hair professional standards, the assessment organisation must be an awarding organisation, regulated by Ofqual, because the end-point assessment is a compulsory part of the Diploma for Hair Professionals. The Trailblazer groups know only too well that there will be a large shortfall of competent assessors in the numbers needed to fulfil the demand so if anyone out there is interested in moving up to become a certified assessor please check that you meet the criteria (see page 5 of the hair professional assessment plan) and email enquiries@nhf.info or caroline. larissey@habia.org with information about your skills and experience together with your contact details. These will be passed on to the awarding organisations which are approved for the qualification. All of the above is going to cost money to implement and that money will need to found. Some will be by way of an apprenticeship levy but this will be confined to larger employers with a pay bill of £3million or more, they will be required to pay 0.5% of their pay bill into a pot, to be used for apprenticeship training. The levy applies across the whole of the UK but how the funds can be used varies between England, Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. These large employers will have a £15,000 allowance to offset against their levy payment. Levy funds will be available through a new digital service on gov.uk. The first funds will appear in digital accounts in late May 2017. 20% of the total cost will be held back, to be paid on completion
of the apprenticeship. Any unused funds will expire after 24 months. But, what about the smaller employers? Do they also have to pay the levy? (This section applies to England only, different rules will / may apply to the other home nations. Check the websites for:Skills Development Scotland, Welsh government, Northern Ireland Assembly). Apprenticeship reforms are underway in each of the home nations so information will be changing as those reforms are implemented. For England non-levy paying companies must contribute 10% of the cost of apprenticeship training and assessment. Small employers (less than 50 employees) who take on 16-18 year olds, or those aged 19-24 who have been in care, or who have a local authority care plan will not pay anything towards the cost of apprenticeship training and assessment. Any employer taking on 16-18 year olds or those aged 19-24 who have been in care, or who have a local authority care plan will also receive £1,000 to support the additional costs of training these groups and the training provider will also receive £1,000. The money is paid in two instalments, £500 after three months and the balance at 12 months. Contributions from employers must be in cash, not kind, but can be spread over time. Employers are expected to negotiate the price of training and assessment with training providers, so if you negotiate a price which is lower than the maximum allowed, your contribution will be 10% of the lower price you negotiate. So for my understanding of the situation, market force and commercial competition will decide what the actual training costs will be. When I started this piece I wrote that the changes were radical, and I’m sure you will agree. For further information:https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/ apprenticeship-standard-hair-professional Until next time, keep snipping and clipping Robert Rix SHR SRSB MCH MCB
BarberNV Magazine | 79
TrainingNV.
february 2017 Training Dates Date
Duration Course
5th Feb
1 Day
5th Feb
Company/School
Location
Cost
Contact
Bluebeards Revenge Shave Day GBBA
Leyton
£180.00
01752 898191
1 Day
Bluebeards Revenge Shave Day GBBA
Glasgow
£180.00
01752 898191
6th Feb
2 Weeks
Combo Scissor, Clipper/Fading LSOB
Farringdon
£1,540.00
0207 404 0998
6th Feb
2 Days
Clipper/Fading Masterclass
Men’s Grooming Ireland
Dublin
£510.00
353 1288 2870
6th Feb
3 Days
Savills Master Barber Course
Savills Barber Academy
Sheffield
£450.00
0114 276 1011
12th Feb
1 Day
BR Traditional Barbering
GBBA
Poole
£180.00
01752 898191
12th Feb
1 Day
Bluebeards Revenge Shave Day GBBA
Gateshead
£180.00
01752 898191
13th Feb
9 Weeks
Diploma in Barbering
London School of Barbering
Covent Garden £3,780.00
0207 404 0998
13th Feb
3 Weeks
Masters in Barbering L3
London School of Barbering
Farringdon
£1,840.00
0207 404 0998
19th Feb
1 Day
Bluebeards Revenge
GBBA
Crawley
£180.00
01752 898191
20th Feb
1 Week
Clipper/Fading Fundamentals London School of Barbering
Farringdon
£940.00
0207 404 0998
20th Feb
1 Day
Savills Shaving Specialist
Savills Barber Academy
Sheffield
£200.00
0114 276 1011
21st Feb
1 Day
All Hair Types - Afro Course
Francesco Group
Birmingham
£140.00
01785 247175
21st Feb
2 Days
Clipper Confidence Course
Savills Barber Academy
Sheffield
£350.00
0114 276 1011
26th Fev
1 Day
Blue Beards Revenge Clipper
GBBA
Northampton
£180.00
01752 898191
27th Feb
1 Week
Scissor Fundamentals
London School of Barbering
Farringdon
£940.00
0207 404 0998
Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering one day clipper cutting course
› Hot towel cut throat shaving one day course
› Barbering boot camp four day course
PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk 80 | BarberNV Magazine
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