Inspiring UK & Ireland Barbering success
Issue 7. September/October 2016.
£5 | €6.50
Barber Cut Dublin 16 Mister Robinson’ s
Tony Roberts Lynndy Rolfe Envy Barbers @BarberNV_Mag
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News | Products | Business | Features | tr aining
02 OCTOBER / OPIUM ROOMS / DUBLIN
FEATURING
ANDREW Andrew Does Hair / DONNIE HAWLEY Layrite Pomade JOHNNY THE BA BA BarberBarber UK / JOTH DAVIES Savills Barbers MENSPIRE / MITCHEL WILSON Layrite Director of Education THE MOVEMBER FOUNDATION / THE WALDORF EXHIBITORS & FOUNDERS
BARBER NV MAGAZINE / BARBERS & GROOMERS / IRISH BARBER JOURNAL MENSPIRE SCISSORS / POMP & CO / RESURVA ONLINE BOOKING SYSTEMS REUZEL / TRUE BARBER PRODUCTS presenting ADH & LAYRITE PLUS
LIFE TIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD PRESENTED BY SCHOREM & THE WALDORF BARBER MUSEUM
BARBER CUT DUBLIN is proud to present Ireland's first Barber Festival & Educational Conference, on 2nd October in the Opium Rooms, Dublin. Featuring the biggest names in the business, you will experience all aspects of traditional and modern barbering and shaving techniques. The whole day will end with a party like no other, live music and Dj’s into the night.
This will be the biggest gathering of barbers in one place in Ireland and the social event of the year. Early bird tickets are available now. For tickets & information visit www.barbercutdublin.com Brought to you in partnership with
Welcome Andrew Brewster
Editor-in-chief
Autumn is a season of change. A season where the long and fruitful summer comes to an end. And so it is at BarberNV, where I am sad to say my time as editor has come to an end.
M
yself and Joanne Reid have had an incredible year together after founding BarberNV, shaking up the barbering industry and providing a new platform for young and talented barbers to promote their work. And while I’m sure that will continue for BarberNV under Jo and I wish her nothing but the best, for me it’s on to pastures new. I’m definitely going out with a bang as this issue is chockfull of fantastic features with interviews, from Blackburn to Budapest. Literally! While many barbershops are at the heart of their local community, Mister Robinson’s in Rugby takes it to a whole new level and we were delighted to speak to their forthright proprietor Matt Robinson. Stag Barber Co. in Edinburgh has made quite a stir in its two short years of business, including having punters turn up in their undies for charity! As winners of Best Barbershop at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards, they clearly have more than just jokes up their sleeves. Lynndy Rolfe is flying the flag for the females in this issue, with her talent only being matched by her ambition. For a more
old school vibe, Larry caught up with Tony Roberts, a man with more than half a century of barbering knowledge. No one reading this can’t stand to learn a few things from him! There were some big events recently, with our own SHABA awards a big hit, while the Great British Barber Bash took Manchester by storm and Barber Lab gave everyone a chance to experiment and learn from one another. This month’s features take in everything from hair loss to opening a second shop, with the autumn winter trends and barbershop insurance thrown in for good measure. All the news and info from the industry’s governing bodies are in there as usual, while the Lions Barber Collective, Autism Barbers Assemble, and Guerrilla Barbering have had big months on the charity front. So we part on great terms with another fantastic issue of BarberNV which will always be close to my heart. Good luck to Jo and the rest of TeamNV for the future.
Stay sharp, Andrew Founders Andrew Brewster & Joanne Reid | Editor-in-chief Andrew Brewster | Sub Editor Simon Ritchie | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil | Design Support Ross Stewart Design & Marketing PrintNV | Cover Image Apothecary 87 | Pictures Shutterstock, Terry Boyd, Mark Shirley, Krijn Van Noordwijk, Iain Crockart, Reuzel | Columnists Rob & Dan Rix, Larry the Barber Man, Sid Sottung Thanks Mr Haircare - Emil McMahon, CocorocoPR, Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, Barber Cut, B TheAgency, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Hairdressing Council, Neil Barton, Dr Nestor, Pickle PR, Liz McKeon, Larry the Barber Man, JAM Marketing, Stag Barber Co., The MHFed, City & Guilds, British Master Barbers, British Barbers Association, Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards, The Great British Barber Bash, Barber Lab, RUGER, Guerrilla Barbering, Autism Barbers Assemble, The Lions Barber Collective, Tony Roberts, Takara Belmont, REM Men, Johnny’s Chop Shop, Uppercut Deluxe, Suavecito Pomade, Barber Equipment Centre, Pall Mall Barbers, Westrow, Big Boy Grooming, BStyled, Matakki Scissors, Spencer Scissors, Mister Robinson’s, Lynndy Rolfe, Will Devey, Brandwood Clinic, Dr Lauren Jamieson, Manifesto, Legacy Gents Stylists, Fudge Professional, Slade Edwards, Joseph Lanzante, Penny Etheridge, Jacks of London, Linkup Marketing, Apothecary 87, James Williams, Graeme Milne, Blue Tit, Allan Stone, Fudge Belstaff, Myles Lewis, Sid Sottung Academy Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.
BarberNV Magazine | 3
introducing new ™
a super hold, water soluble pomade for skyscraper pomps and slick backs with no sticky residue
grooming www.osmo.uk.com Cut & Styling by OSMOÂŽ Brand Ambassador Davie Walker
News
Features
INDUSTRY NEWS
06
18 TONY ROBERTS
INDUSTRY BODIES
08
36 SCISSORS & THINNERS
EVENTS
10
38 SCISSOR MAINTENANCE
CHARITY NEWS
14
40 MISTER ROBINSON’S
Products EDITOR’S CHOICE
24
STYLING
28
ELECTRICAL
29
SHAVING, BEARD
30
& MOUSTACHE
42 STAG BARBER CO. 44 LYNNDY ROLFE 46 HAIR LOSS 48 DR LAUREN JAMIESON 60 BUDAPEST BARBER SHOP 62 SHOWCASE 70 WINTER HAIR TRENDS
COMBS & BRUSHES
31
FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT
34
Training
SCISSORS & THINNERS
35
72 ROB RIX
Business NEW SHOPS
50
BEHIND THE BRAND:
52
FUDGE PROFESSIONAL BARBERSHOP INSURANCE
54
OPENING A SECOND SHOP
56
FRANCHISING
58
74 EDUCATOR OF THE MONTH:
JOSEPH LANZANTE
76 ACADEMY OF THE MONTH:
ENVY EDUCATION
78 SID SOTTUNG 80 STEP-BY-STEP WITH SID
SOTTUNG AND LS&B
82 TRAINING DATES
Contents Issue 7 | September/October 2016
BarberNV Magazine | 5
Photos: Reddish Pink Media
Bladez Barbers celebrate their 20th birthday in style WITH BIG BASH A night of entertainment for clients old and new at the Blue Angel, Cork Opera House on August 20th, celebrated Bladez’ 20th anniversary. Owner Lorraine Stout threw the bash in honour of two decades serving the people of Cork, with 200 invited guests enjoying a reception of champagne and canapés with the help of the city’s Lockdown Models. Music from Stevie G, Eddie Kay, and Mucca kept everyone up and dancing all night long as the part went from 9pm till late. With so much history tied up in the old shop, Lorraine has started taking men’s hairstyling to a new level with the launch of her own barbering academy.
UNDIES SUNDAYS On the 28th of August, clients at Stag Barber Co. in Edinburgh could pay whatever they wanted for their haircut - provided they stripped down to their pants. Stag Barber Co. hosted their first ever “Undies Sunday” where clients were encouraged to show up in their undies and make a donation to Prostate Cancer UK. “I genuinely didn’t know what was going to happen on the day,” said owner Murray McRae. “I thought we might be asking too much, but when we opened the door at 10am it was incredible to see three guys in their pants all ready to go.” The team saw more than a few hair-raising pairs of pants on the day, with the huge turnout raising just shy of £1,000 for Prostate Cancer UK.
BAWBAGS underwear provided prize packs for those wearing the most ridiculous pair of pants and to those who have made the most generous donation to the cause. McRae says he came up with the idea after learning that prostate cancer kills one man every hour in the UK. ”The statistics are huge. We care a lot about our clients’ health and this is something which could realistically affect them,” he says. “We’re fortunate because a lot of guys come in the shop, so we have a platform to discuss things like men’s health with them. To me, when you have that opportunity as a small business, you really have a responsibility to step up and use it. “If just one guy goes out and gets his prostate checked as a result of this campaign, I’d be happy,” he said.
pall mall attend b-groomed bakblade 2.0, a new way to tame unruly back hair. While many of us are proud of our facial hair, carefully grooming and trimming it into hirsute perfection, we’re generally less so of our back hair. Thankfully, an entrepreneur named Matthew Dreyfhout, has created the baKblade 2.0, a new way to tame unruly back hair. As well as being an advancement in male grooming, the way the funds were raised through Kickstarter to create the baKblade 2.0 could open a new avenue for barbers to create and fund their own products.
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Following their trip to Italy for the Champions League Final, Pall Mall Barbers took to the skies again to head over to Chicago for the B-Groomed Men’s Grooming & Lifestyle Expo. Held in Chicago’s most popular entertainment district, Revel Fulton Market, it was an opportunity to showcase some of the hottest trends in men’s barbering, lifestyle, fashion, and technology. Pall Mall Barbers General Manager, Dan Davies,
and Master Barber, Erin Wentworth, flew to Chicago to showcase what they are about to an American audience. The pair got up on stage to educate on their traditional, natural shaving techniques that Pall Mall Barbers have employed for 124 years. B-Groomed Men’s Grooming & Lifestyle is on a multi-city tour making stops in Los Angeles in September and Miami, FL in November.
Fudge Celebrate 25 Years of Hair Success To celebrate 25 years of hair success, Fudge Professional has launched a limited edition Hair Shaper Gravity Feed Retail Dispenser for its bestselling product. With stylish silver packaging, the dispenser is sure to be a talking point in the salon, offering barbers a new way to sell their clients’ favourite product.
Mike Taylor Education Barbering Resource Book Mike Taylor Education has announced the launch of its new barbering resource book. Written by Mike Taylor himself, an experienced barber and assessor, it’s an invaluable guide to help you master the art of barbering. Featuring essential information with step-bystep instructions and techniques combined with expert tips, best practice, and insightful advice, this book is all you need to assist your learning and begin your journey to a new career. Specially designed to help you achieve practical success with theoretical explanations where appropriate, content has been closely matched to the knowledge outcomes and criteria of the main awarding organisations so learners can be confident that this book is relevant, up to date, and a truly indispensable guide through your barbering qualifications and beyond.
BARBERING
RESOURCE BOOK MATCHED TO THE BARBERING LEVEL 2 & 3 STANDARDS Cutting Shaving Beard Trimming Consultation Health & Saftey Scalp Massage Shampooing
£6
Blow Drying Patterns and more...
5 033102 032834
East Durham College Hosting The England Barber apprentice of the Year 2016 Finals East Durham College is set to host the England Barbering Apprentice of the Year 2016 Finals on Monday 3rd October. The free event will include the competition alongside hairdressing and barbering demonstrations from some top talent such as Kevin Vorley of K Emporium and Martin Fox of Foxy Middlesbrough. Kevin will also be judging the award along with Chris Moon of Kutz Barbers, Damian Owen of Elite Barbering, City & Guilds Dianne Mitchell, and former BarberNV Educator of the Month Alison Scattergood. Sponsored by City & Guilds, it’s the second of the four national competitions taking place around the UK to find the country’s top apprentices.
OSMO Appoint two New scottish Brand Ambassadors Two of Scotland’s top barbers, Eric Begg and Greg Forrest, have been appointed brand ambassadors of world-renowned hair care brand OSMO. Co-owners of Slicks Barbers in Glasgow, the pair have made quite a name for themselves throughout Scotland and the UK, with Slicks a finalist for Best Barbershop in both the 2015 and 2016 Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards. Both Eric and Gregg are educators at the City of Glasgow College for Barbering Level 1 & 2 students and appeared on stage as OSMO brand ambassadors for the first time at the Great British Barber Bash in Manchester in September. “I’ve been using OSMO products on my clients for as long as I can remember, and to be announced as their new brand ambassador alongside Greg is a real achievement for myself and Slicks,” said Eric.
Barrie Stephen Wins Leicestershire’s Businessman of the Year Barrie Stephen was crowned Leicestershire’s Bus inessman of the Year at the Niche Awards on Friday 9th September. With the most illustrious of Leicester’s business leaders vying for this title, Barrie Stephen, renowned for his investment and networking with local businesses, charities, and initiatives, was a welldeserved winner with his six salon chain a leading light in both men and women’s hairdressing.
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National Minimum Wage Remember the National Minimum Wage rates will increase on 1 October 2016. It’s now a key time to make changes to your payroll and ensure that the rate changes are scheduled. While changing your rates make sure you check that employees are in the correct agerelated band as these may change if they have had a birthday. Check whether they need to move off the apprenticeship rate if they have completed an apprenticeship, or if they’ve completed the first year of an apprenticeship if they’re 19 or over. Go to the NHF website to check you’re paying the correct rates and to download the NHF guide (members only). Rates from October 2016 – April 2017 25+ £7.20 21-24 years old £6.95 18-20 years old £5.55 16-17 years old £4.00 Apprentice* £3.40 Barber demonstrations The NHF are holding a series of barber demonstrations in September & November. 19 September – Barber workshop with Tom Baxter, Glasgow 26 September – Barber workshop with James Beattie, Neath 7 November – Barber workshop with Robert & Dan Rix, Liverpool 14 November – Barber workshop with Darren Jones, Milton Keynes
Tickets cost £20 members early bird (£25 after early bird) and £40 for non-members. To book your ticket go to www.nhf.info/events
Apprenticeship funding proposals In October the government will be publishing the final version of how apprenticeships will be funded from May 2017. At the time of writing, the proposals are: • Employers with a pay bill of £3m or more will pay a levy of 0.5% of their pay bill to be spent on apprenticeships • Employers with 50 or more employees will pay 10% of the cost of apprenticeship training and assessment • Employers with less than 50 employees will not pay anything towards the cost of apprenticeship training and assessment • Employers taking on 16-18 year olds, or those aged 19-24 who have been in care or who have a local authority care plan, will receive £1000 to support the additional costs of training these groups To find out more visit www.nhf.info or call us on 01234 831965
NHF
8 | BarberNV Magazine
As part of & Guilds Barbering Industry Board drive towards improving the standards of barbering and with the intention of leading to state registration, the first Apprentice of the Year competition was held to crown a winner in Scotland. After some fierce competition from a host of talented young barbers at the MHFed’s Best of British Barbering final at the Surgeon’s Hall in Edinburgh on September 11th, Montel Campbell from East Kilbride took home the top prize from the judges. A great achievement for the upcoming barber. It is the first time a national barbering competition has been fully endorsed by City & Guilds and it’s just the start of what is set to be an amazing year for all the national winners. For MHFed founder and Chairman of the City & Guilds Barbering Industry Board Adam Sloan it was particularly special to see a fellow Scot take home the first of the four awards. Up next it’s the turn of Wales to pick an Apprentice of the Year when the competition hits the Parkway Hotel and Spa, Cwmbran on Sunday 2nd October with the brilliant Jac Ludlow. The day after it’s England’s turn to crown their champion as former BarberNV Educator of the Month Alison Scattergood welcomes the competition to East Durham College on Monday 3rd October. Last but certainly not least, the final winner is decided at Belfast Metropolitan College on Monday 10th October. As if being crowned the Apprentice of the Year for your nation wasn’t enough of a prize, Denman International have donated a £3,000 goodie bag for all the winners, which will surely set them off on the best possible start to what will hopefully be long and fruitful barbering careers. For the MHFed and City & Guilds this is just the start of an annual event that will try to penetrate the grassroots of barbering education, teaching the next generation of barbers to value being registered and being highly skilled. Keep your eye out in the next BarberNV to find out the other winners and for a more in-depth look at each of them – before they become household names! To find out more visit www.mhfed.com
The Fellowship for British Hairdressing take a well-earned break throughout the month of August as they prepare for the end of the year. The remaining months of 2016 look set to be very busy for The Fellowship team and there are some fantastic dates for your diary coming up. September welcomes both Business Brainstorm and An Evening with Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year Andy Heasman. On Monday 19th September, an incredible line up of industry experts awaits the audience as they discuss hot topics in business at the moment. A Q&A gives everyone the opportunity to ask advice they need so it is perfect for barbers, managers, and owners alike. The next evening Andy Heasman invites Fellowship members to get an insight into his career and why he was awarded Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year at the prestigious Luncheon & Awards last December. An event that is coming up on Monday 5th December at the beautiful Dorchester Hotel but be quick if you wish to attend as tickets sell out within minutes! To keep up to date with what is coming up you can visit the Fellowship website. The Fellowship events are just one of the benefits of being a member of such a fantastic organisation. Other benefits include networking opportunities, education, and the possibility of stage time. One of the opportunities available to members is the Christofer Mann Step Up & Shine Scholarship, and last year’s winner Sophie Freegard has just finished her final date with Chris Foster. On Sunday 24th July, Sophie was at The Foss Academy as she worked on lots of different barbering techniques, including clipper over comb. It was an amazing day for Sophie and she was really excited to be able to spend some time with such a barbering expert. The chance to apply for this scholarship is launched at Salon International in October so make sure you keep an eye out! If you aren’t a member yet then take advantage of their ‘no joining fee’ special offer and join now. An action packed calendar awaits you and your team, plus a whole host of other benefits.
C&G and the MHfed
The Fellowship
For more details visit www.fellowshiphair.com or contact Carol on carol@fellowshiphair.com
Alongside promoting the barbering industry as a whole, The British Master Barbers Alliance is constantly looking to grow the list of benefits and perks for their valued members. BMB have recently teamed up with appointment booking service Booksy. The app has been somewhat taking the barbering world, and many others for that matter, by storm. With bookings streamlined, barbers are able to spend more time doing what they love - cutting hair. BMB members can claim a two-week free trial and a further 20% discount on their first month should they choose to sign up. This month members also had the chance to win a ticket to Chris Foster’s Profit Profile Master Class in London. Chris recently won the inaugural ‘Male Grooming Specialist’ title at Creative Head’s Most Wanted awards, so certainly a man worth listening to! More giveaways and additional perks will be added over the coming months. It’s just over a month until British Master Barbers’ live event, MB Live, heads to Crawley’s Arora Hotel. The day’s assembled cast is formed of a range of the UK & Ireland’s top barbering educators. “Diversity has always been our main aim. We have MK demonstrating patterns and hair artistry, demonstrators from a hairdressing background, shaving specialists... We want guests to be able to learn a whole range of skills for the price of one ticket.” At last year’s event, Andis donated 20 pairs of clippers from their latest ranges to be given away. BMB have recently announced that ‘The Big Giveaway’ will return for 2016. Andis educator, Darren ‘Andis’ Jones, will also take to the Main Stage during the day. MB Live will once again see the crowning of BMB’s Barber of the Year - Joe Cartmel, Nathan Bradbury and Kieron Price battled it out onstage last year. After much deliberation from the judging panel, Raw:Image Barbershop’s proprietor Kieron Price was crowned champion. Entry for this year’s award is now open! To enter, send your finest image to info@ britishmasterbarbers.com. With no set brief, entrants are free to send any style they wish - from perfectly executed classics to more modern cuts. The three chosen finalists will be invited to compete at BMB’s upcoming show. The competition deadline is October 9th and only current BMB members are eligible for the award. Tickets for MB Live 2016 can be purchased at www.masterbarberlive.com.
The British Master Barbers
The ‘All Party Parliamentary Group’ (APPG) is fast becoming an excellent forum for us to lobby MPs regarding our case; at the last meeting there were no fewer than seven MPs in attendance. Great! And at the end of the meeting, John McNally, the Chair of the APPG publicly stated to the other six MPs there how important it was for them to work more closely with us and start to really get behind our cause. A small but very positive move forward. In an exceptionally important ruling in favour of The Hair and Barber Council and its members, HMRC have informed us that The Council has been approved by The Commissioners for HM Revenue and Customs to be added to the HMRC approved register for professional fees. This means that membership subscriptions for The Hair and Barber Council will now not be treated as a ‘benefit in kind’ and as such will not need to be included in your annual P11d declaration and will be treated as tax relief in respect of the annual membership subscriptions. So, salons will not have to pay tax or national insurance on the previous supposed benefit and as such is an allowable expense. If the stylists have paid the fees they can claim income tax relief on this cost. Our grateful thanks to Shirley DavisFox MBE, one of your Council Committee members who took the lead on this and it is her hard work and determination that achieved this result for our cause. With the new standards and qualifications coming in during 2017, we have also been liaising closely with City and Guilds and VTCT. With the uncertainty over the proposed ‘apprenticeship levy’ that is likely to be imposed in the near future, it is imperative that The Council has a position on this as to the possible implications, dependent on if/ when it is bought in and at what pricing level, could have a huge impact on the hair industry as well as that of other sectors. So, working closely with our colleagues at the awarding bodies is extremely important. This we will continue to do. Getting new members to join The Hair and Barber Council is of course, still, one of the main KPIs of the business. Together with the correct data, something else your Council is looking at, the more members we have the easier it will be to gain strength and momentum to our cause with government, so anyone you know you think should join, please help them along the way, we would really appreciate that.
The BBA are heading to Canada! The British Barbers Association in partnership with Kreate, the Beauty Council/Barbers Association of Western Canda, London School, EvelineCharles Academy, and Eikonic Barber Academy with the support of select sponsors including Wahl Professional, Feather Razors, Barbicide, Shortcuts, and Barber Supplies Co. have put together an incredible week of barbering events for Vancouver, Edmonton, and Toronto in early October. The epic week of men’s grooming starts off in Vancouver on Sunday evening, Oct 2nd at the Republic, 958 Granville Street, with “An Evening with Extraordinary Gentlemen”. The British Barbers will present a prestige night full of the latest styles and techniques from the UK’s finest barbers, Chris Foster and Erik Lander. The team will showcase inspired mens’ grooming hair styles and fashion trends from the UK. Chris and Erik will conduct a full day Creative Men’s Grooming hands on work shop with a morning Look & Learn hosted by BC/ BCBA and London School, 300 W Pender Street on Monday, Oct 3rd. This hands on workshop is aimed at attendees who have three years or more experience in barbering and men’s grooming and want to take their skills to the next level with more advanced creative cutting and clippering techniques. From Vancouver the BBA team are off to Edmonton where they will be hosted by EvelineCharles Academy, 10205 101 Street Northwest on Tuesday Evening, Oct 4th for another full evening of talent. The night will start off with local talent, @Nerissathebarber, from The Refuge followed up by the main event featuring Chris and Erik from the BBA. The BBA team will wrap up the Canadian Tour in Toronto on Wednesday evening, Oct 5th with a final rollout of “An Evening with Extraordinary Gentlemen” with special local barbers, Martin Truong, Eikonic Academy & Francis Paua Jr., GQ Styling, who will start off the night. The event will be hosted by Eikonic House of Barbers Academy at the Multimedia StudioTheatre, University of Toronto, Mississauga Campus, 3359 Mississauga Road. The British Barbers Association is the voice of barbers in the UK. They represent their members by bringing together like minded professionals dedicated to the development and high standards of the barbering industry.
The Barber Council
The British Barbers’ Association
You can find out more at www.britishbarbers.com
BarberNV Magazine | 9
On October 2nd, Barber Cut brings a day of barbering education and entertainment to Dublin with some of the biggest names in the industry flying in from all over the globe to showcase their talents. It’s set to be the biggest barbering party that Ireland has ever seen with live music and DJs keeping the excitement levels high late into the night, so after the education has finished the fun just keeps going!
Barbering talent rarely seen on these shores will be making an appearance, and believe us, you don’t want to miss it! Get your tickets at www.barbercutdublin.com and we’ll see you there!
Donnie Hawley Founder of Layrite, Donnie was our big interview in issue five when Larry the Barber Man caught up with him in his Hawleywood’s empire. There are few barbers with a reputation or a mythology as legendary as Donnie’s so it’s an opportunity you won’t want to miss. His master classes and talks are second to none when it comes to industry knowledge and he’s sure to take it to the next level in Dublin. Donnie Hawley: “First I’d like to say thank you to Johnny Shanahan, Jim Hourigan, and Sam’s Barbers who rolled out the red carpet for the Layrite launch party in Limerick some years ago. So when I heard about Barber Cut Dublin, I was excited to go back! It’s an absolutely honour to be taking part at Barber Cut Dublin. This will be a great moment in the history of barbering. I’m a traditionalist to the core. “I’m really looking forward to connecting and educating the difference between cosmetology and barbering. Cosmetologists DO hair, whereas barbers CUT hair and perform hot towel, straight razor shaves. In addition to all this I’ll cut hair for my special friends at Sam’s Barbers Ireland. “There’s a certain mythology to the barbershop experience that is quite beautiful and even romantic. Once a relationship between a barber and patron is forged, it will outlast friendships and some of the strongest marriages.” 10 | BarberNV Magazine
Bertus “The Bloody Butcher”
Josh Lamonaca of Menspire
When Larry caught up with Schorem in issue four of BarberNV (with The Bloody Butcher on the front cover) it became an instant classic. The so-called “scumbag barbers” of Rotterdam are world renowned for their spit and sawdust style, with queues forming daily so clients can pick from a set roster of cuts. Their antics are legendary, and many of them are unsuitable to be printed, but you can see them for yourself in Dublin and we have no doubt they’ll live up to your expectations. Bertus: “Going back to Dublin completes the circle for us in a way as this was where a big part of the whole Schorem journey began. “For us, visiting the Waldorf Barbershop and its owners has always been our biggest inspiration. We learned so much from Liam and Linda and took a big part of their knowledge back to Rotterdam and used it to start that little shave haven that we came to love so much…”
With an education system that is second to none in the UK, Menspire lead the way when it comes to training the next generation of barbers from their shop in St. Albans. The brand has gone from strength to strength with a product range and a clothing line supplementing their incredible educational offerings. Co-owner Josh makes the trip to Dublin in high spirits and is looking forward to sharing his knowledge with the people of the Emerald Isle. Josh Lamonaca: “To be able to be a part of the first barbering convention in Ireland after spending five years building relations and delivering education, we are super excited to get on the platform and display our brand new creative collection to help build and inspire the Irish barbering community.”
Andrew Does Hair Mitchel Wilson Known as ‘The Voodoo Barber’, Mitchel is one of the most passionate barbers in the industry and with his punk rock roots and affection for the traditional barber profession’s historical lineage, it’s no surprise he’s now one of the leading men at Layrite. Looking after their education, he led their Band of Barbers on their breakthrough inaugural tour. Mitchel Wilson: “As the time rapidly approaches we can feel the excitement building all the way from the West Coast of Southern California! Barber Cut Dublin will be the global convergence of the epitome of excellence in barbering. I am truly honoured to share it with you in Dublin.”
His product range is simple – ADH Dry and ADH Wet – yet has become world renowned for its quality and excellence. More than his product range though, Andrew is known for wanting to change the way men think about their hair, encouraging them to go the extra mile and push for the results they really want. In doing so he has inspired countless stylists and barbers to give clients more knowledge than ever before and to share their expertise. Andrew is just one of the Californian contingent joining us in Dublin. Andrew Does Hair: “Barber Cut is the thing I’ve been training for through my whole career. I didn’t always know it, but now I’m sure. In a day when people are ready to trust fast and free advice from someone who is limited to a screen, I’m excited to get to connect in real life with real experts who are connecting with their clients in a deeper, more meaningful way.” BarberNV Magazine | 11
Shaba 2016
The Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards at the Radisson Blu in Glasgow on September 4th, sponsored by BarberNV and SalonNV, saw more barbering categories added than ever before with Alan Findlay’s Rebel Rebel staff among the big winners as they took home three prizes.
S
imon Harvey won Male Barber of the Year,, sponsored by Kiehl’s, Gemma Willock-Smith took home Female Barber of the Year, and Graeme Milne was crowned Apprentice Barber of the Year, sponsored by Orbit Smoke. “When I heard my name get announced I was surprised but also very excited,” said Graeme. “I never expected to win as I haven’t been barbering for that long and I knew I was up against some tough opposition. “I haven’t really been to an event like SHABA before so I didn’t know what to expect but I had one of the best nights I’ve had in a long time. It’s a brilliant experience with everyone at Rebel Rebel, including the other winners Simon and Gemma. I have learned so much off of those two and will continue do so. I’m very lucky.” It was also a good night for Stag Barber Co., our Barbershop of the Month, sponsored by Hair and Beauty World, as they took home the prize for Best Barbershop. You’ll find out more about
12 | BarberNV Magazine
Murray McRae and his shop later in the issue, and no doubt a lot more in the future. Best Wet Shave, sponsored by Fit for Vikings, went to Curley’s Urbane Barbers in Shawlands, with their unique and tailored approach to shaving paying dividends with a great win. They received their award from barbering legend Simon Shaw, who was among one of many illustrious guests from the barbering world, including Adam and Joe Sloan of the MHFed. Overall it was another successful Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards, with celebrities like Calum Best and Miss Great Britain Dionne Robertson mingling among the hundreds of attendees. Hosted by TV personalities George Lamb and Josie Smith, who had the crowd eating out the palm of their hands with their witty banter and chat, the awards were closed by X Factor star Seann Miley Moore performing a medley of hits, before the crowd moved on to the after party at the Grosvenor Riverboat Casino.
Barber Bash Manchester
Barber Lab - ruger Barber chemistry was in the air, whether it was the relationships being formed or the kinetic energy sweeping the room from the creation of innovative haircuts, Barber Lab is revolutionising the way barbers can showcase their work and network with top names in the industry.
Hair professionals from across the country congregate in the shadow of Manchester’s Victoria Warehouse. The two metre projection that adorns the iconic brickwork leaves no doubt as to why they are here, the Barber Bash is in town.
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ong before doors open, crowds gather around the impromptu barbershop outside where the day’s demonstrators give each other a little pre-show trim. It’s the first time the GBBB team have returned to Manchester since their sellout co-promotion of Reuzel’s product launch with the scumbags of Schorem, and they’ve brought what is arguably their strongest line-up to date. Twenty five of the UK and Ireland’s top barbering talents, both Barber Bash regulars and new faces, deliver high energy demonstrations throughout the afternoon. Entertainment certainly isn’t limited to the stage. Exhibitors’ festooned stalls decorate the unique venue’s hallways and rooms. GBBB’s ambition certainly can’t be questioned; last to take to the main stage is special guest Julius Cvesar.
The charismatic American has travelled all the way from the City of Angels, L.A, to be here. “They truly have something special going on over here at The Great British Barber Bash”, boasts Julius. “I am grateful to have been the first American barber to hop on board the GBBB team. Manchester was amazing!” From the unique venues to the talent on stage, it’s clear that Julius is correct: the Barber Bash are onto something. The sell-out event perfectly epitomises the country’s booming barbering movement. The after-party continues long into the night, with guests and demonstrators alike hanging around to catch up with old faces and meet new ones. With Manchester wrapped up, an announcement regarding the next Barber Bash can be expected shortly. Did somebody say London?
C
reated by Alan Beak and Uppercut Deluxe ambassador Luke Dolan, and held at RUGER in Oldham, the event was a chance to open up new possibilities for barbers who previously were unable to have their work seen on a larger scale. It was the second successful Barber Lab event, following the original at Luke’s Barber Shop in London, and the atmosphere was one of experimentation and collaboration. While similar events have been known to charge hefty prices for entry, admission to Barber Lab was completely free, making it as inclusive as possible. It certainly worked, with an overwhelming number of people attending, so much so that RUGER had to use the Wilson and Rogers salon downstairs to accommodate everyone. But that was the community spirit of the event, with any sponsors asked to simply bring something to the event, and they did so in style. Corona supplied 20 cases of beer, while the rest of the bar was stocked by the team at 100 Harley Street. For non-drinkers (yes, there’s a few of them out
there!) a barista was on hand to serve fresh cups of Java coffee. The Bluebeards Revenge and Unknown Limited helped out with the barbers’ supplies. Photography was provided by Amy Lidgett while Nathan Haley was on site to do the videography. Among the top talent showcasing their work at the event were Tom Baxter, Sam Wall, Reef Healey, Sharo the Barber, Rhys Beak, Liam Twist, Tariq Howes, Toastie Styles, and the UK Master Barber’s Zana. A competitive edge was brought by a barber battle, hosted by BarberNV’s own Larry the Barber Man and the legendary Champ. Some incredible pattern and fading work was on show from the six barbers involved, with the crown going to the amazing Niall Shanahan. A deserving winner. Perhaps the highlight of the event was the collaboration of four of the UK’s most renowned barbers to provide a truly experimental haircut on graphic designer Mario Vaz. Alan Beak, Kevin Luchmun, Niall Shanahan, and Simon Kibbler worked together to produce something unique,
BarberNV Magazine | 13
Guerrilla Barbering For Guerrilla Barbering 2.1 we’ve gone down another route to raise money with an event in Wacky Barbers in Soho to try and reach a different market with something fresh in the industry.
S
tarting at 10.30 in the morning, alongside some of the best barbers in the industry, we did over 50 haircuts throughout the day until 6pm. We did really well with donations for Centrepoint and the Guerrilla Barbering team created a buzz in the barber shop that simply couldn’t be recreated anywhere else. We’d like to thank everyone who was part of the team and all of our sponsors. We simply couldn’t do what we do without the help of Dapper Dan, Clubman Pinaud, Elegance, Reuzel, Andis, Denman, and Italy Hair and Beauty. Please check them out. You’ll be seeing much more of them and us at more events and pop-up shops to raise as much money as possible for Centrepoint so please give us your support. On the 28th of August we also released our Guerrilla Barbering Essential App which is available on iOS and Google Play. This keeps you updated on everything that Guerrilla Barbering are doing with links to the Twitter and Instagram feeds of every member. Ultimately we will be having a podcast and music playlists on the app so you can listen to and be a part of what we do. There will also be a section on the app for you to upload your own images to put towards our digital lookbook for barbers to use in their salon for customers to reference. Search Guerrilla Barbering on your mobile store to get involved. By the time you read this we will have been
14 | BarberNV Magazine
at the Great British Barber Bash on the 4th of September in Manchester which will be an amazing event as usual. We have our own Guerrilla Barbering stand at the event so thanks so much if any of you came along to support. Our man Myles Lewis is in the final of the Best of British Rising Star category in Edinburgh on 11th of September so we wish him luck with that! The events are coming thick and fast and we’ll also be at British Master Barbers Live in Gatwick on October 30th, while we are once again going to the Victoria Warehouse in Manchester in November to support the Street Football Association International Soccer Festival. We’ll be cutting hair for people affected by homelessness who are part of the international soccer festival – it’s an incredible event that really gives us an opportunity to get hands on with people who have been affected by the issues we want to help remedy. We will be there throughout the festival and we can’t wait get back involved with that cause. Watch out on social media outlets for all the updates on what we’re doing, where we are, and how you can donate. Our target for the next year is raising £5,000 for Guerrilla Barbering and Centrepoint, and if you’ve been inspired by what our team is trying to do and wish to donate then we ask you to keep your eyes on our social media.
Photos: RareBreed Photography
Guerrilla Gang Live Podcast,
brought to you by Reuzel The Guerrilla Gang podcast is underway with a pilot series being released on Soundcloud. Not just about barbering, although with a strong barbering association, we’re discussing all aspects of life and our experiences, plus a bit of banter to go along with it. If anyone is interested in being a guest on the first ever barbering podcast in the UK then please contact Guerrilla Barbering through our Facebook or Instagram. Once the official series starts it will be available on Apple Music for you to download and stay up to date with the Guerrilla Gang.
BarberNV Magazine | 15
Autism Barbers Assemble
On Saturday 28th of August in Paisley Scotland, the Autism Barbers Assemble’s first charity event took place at two barber shops. With 35 children booked in for one-hour appointments, and eight of the ABA team on hand to take care of them, it was a fantastic chance to raise awareness in the industry and give families a chance to come along to a salon where they know they will be properly looked after. James ‘Jim the Trim’ Williams, Davie Walker, Tyra Grundy, Jack Pullen, Jamie Hill, Martine Van Rijswijk, Darren Simons, Gary Cox, and Jamie Stuart all pitched in to make the day a massive success. The kids picked up on the vibes of every barber that approached them and everyone was so patient and caring, the kids were happy to let the ABA team do their thing. For some of the children it was their first haircut in a year and a half. While before the parents may have just shaved their head, at this event the kids had an experience they could enjoy. It was truly heart-warming to see some mothers getting emotional as their children were looked after so well. It was also eye-opening for some of the barbers who hadn’t had as much experience as ABA founder Jim the Trim who helps children with 16 | BarberNV Magazine
autism every Sunday, but they’ve now also learned a new skill which they can use to improve people’s lives. As a non-profit organisation, ABA raised over £500 on the day for small charities to benefit from. Applause for Autism in Scotland and the Swansea branch of the National Autistic Society will be the two chief beneficiaries with the money raised used to fund therapy to help children progress with their speech and pay for day trips to autism friendly locations, among other good causes. You can still donate to the ABA JustGiving account through their Facebook page as they aim to raise another £1,000 to help children with autism. With a successful first event under their belt, the ABA team are now planning further events with the plan to get one more in Wales before the year is up. However, 2017 should see them go full steam ahead as they attend more barber shows, spread the word, and hopefully even make it out to America for an event using connections Jim made at the B-Groomed expo.
The Lions Barber Collective
The Lion’s roar has been heard far and wide in the past few months as Tom Chapman and the rest of The Lions Barber Collective have taken their mental health awareness talks on the road, helping fellow barbers understand what they can do to help clients suffering in silence. In July, they went stateside as they hit the B-Groomed expo in Chicago. As well as speaking with a host of American educational institutions including the Chicago Illinois Men’s Health University and the Chicago College for Cosmetology who were keen to get the lowdown on what they have done and try to support their efforts, it was a great opportunity for Tom and the guys to network with a range of top industry figures. They even made it onto Fox News, where Tom and Pat Barry made quite an impression. That was just the start of media coverage that saw the Lions’ message spread all over radio stations and magazines in the USA. After their American adventure was over, the Lions headed into Europe for World Beard Day. Tom and Lawrence Fo made the trip to Stockholm, Sweden for a massive event at the start of September which saw a dozen barbers doing beard trims and donating the proceeds to charity. They also had support from the Swedish chapter of the Bearded Villains who donated 5,000 Krona to the cause – almost £500! The Lions speech on stage and several talks were well received and it’s clear the message is spreading far beyond the UK. Back at home the first ever Lion’s Den drop-in
support group at Tom Chapman Hair Design was a success with support workers on hand to volunteer an ear and talk with anyone who was unsure about how to get help locally, or even what help was on offer. It was held in partnership with Domino’s who supplied pizzas, and is sure to be an event that goes from strength to strength in the future. It’s been a crazy year for the Lions who are celebrating their first anniversary, and in
partnership with the Bluebeards Revenge they put together a survey asking 2,000 men questions about their barber. The results came to the conclusion that more than half see the same barber more often than they see the same GP and that they’d prefer to discuss issues with their barber as the relationship is so much stronger. It’s more proof that what the Lions are doing is vital work and the best way we have to reach out to men with issues that they don’t feel comfortable discussing with anyone else. The mainstream media have been picking up on the good work being done by the Lions with newspapers including the Daily Record, the Mirror, and the Express writing about their work. Lawrence even made an appearance on Sky News to discuss the Lions, mental well-being, and World Suicide Prevention Day. The next big step for the team is when Lawrence and Tom fly out to California at the end of October for a tour with El Patron where they’ll be crosspromoting the Lions on a trip from Reno to San Francisco doing what they do best – cutting hair and helping improve barbers’ communication with their clients. Stay tuned!
BarberNV Magazine | 17
Old school cool With tony roberts
18 | BarberNV Magazine
An interview with Larry the Barber Man
Tony Roberts has seen it all. With half a century of barbering experience, few men still in the trade have seen the industry change the way he has.
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e’ve gone from Bakelite hairdryers to Dyson Supersonics, from hand shears to Wahl Legends. Yes, barbering has come a long way and for the last 30 years Tony has witnessed it all from his shop, Just Gents, in Milton Keynes. It could have been very different for the farmer’s son who had a choice between becoming a gunsmith, a projectionist at the Odeon, or a barber. Thankfully, he chose barbering and began a life long journey that has taken Tony to the very top of the profession. After helping out in his local shop after school, when it was time to make a career of it Tony was taken on as an apprentice. At the time it was a serious undertaking he tells me. “My mum and dad had to pay a deposit to the shop for him to train me and if I’d have left I’d have lost the deposit. I forget how much it was in those days but it was a reasonable amount of money because in 1959/60 a hundred quid was a lot of money. But I stuck at it, I learned the trade and in six months I was cutting hair. “The first things my boss Frank taught me was how to look after my tools, how to sharpen the razors, and then I would stand, glued to his side virtually, as he was cutting hair, shaving etc. And then the next step he had me lathering up the old boys that came
in the shop for shaves with beards like barbed wire. They’d take the fingerprints off my fingers while I was lathering them,” he laughs as he reminisces. It wasn’t long before his hard work paid off and when his fingerprintless fingers were wrapped around a pair of scissors, it was apparent from the start that this was the trade for him. “I took to it like a duck to water,” says Tony. “Within 12 months I had customers waiting for me all the time, which used to upset Frank a little bit as he was the master and I was the boy as such, but I just loved it and enjoyed it so much. “We just went from there and I was with him for four years, nearly five years, learned the trade exceptionally well then decided to move on with his blessing. He said to me if you ever leave a job make sure you leave with the door open so you can go back if want to.” He never did need to go back to Frank. His one-man shop just outside Oabdy in Leicestershire was a success and from that point Tony looked after himself. Unlike the current generation of barbers, when Tony started he was using instruments very different to what we use today, including shears that required more than a little bit of blood and sweat to use. u BarberNV Magazine | 19
“It was really, really interesting,” he says about the different tools they had to master, “and with the hand shears it was tough. It was hard work. Especially as a youngster because I didn’t have the strength in my hands that my old boss had and you had to keep going because if you stopped that was it; you’d pull the hair and the customer would jump forward and go ‘Oh!’ so you must keep your hands moving at all times with the shears to keep them working. “My old boss used to say if you get a kid in your chair and he don’t behave himself, just ease up a little bit, that would make him behave,” Tony jokes mischievously. “Which is a bit naughty but it was just something that happened in those days. “I’ve still got them locked away in a box but I’ve not used them for years, I’ll need to get them out and give them a whirl if I can get a customer brave enough to sit in the chair! Probably frighten the life out of them if they saw them.” Having been in the industry for so long, Tony was there to experience first-hand the change to electric clippers. A momentous event that changed the industry forever. “Well that was just another world altogether. Speed. You would do haircuts a lot quicker. A lot quicker. At one stage when I opened this shop [Just Gents in Milton Keynes] 32 years ago, I started on my own and people used to think it was the dole office because they’d be queuing outside and I’d be working in here and a friend that was my mate’s wife would come in two or three times during the day and sweep up for me cause I’d just be working non-stop.” Even now in his 70s, Tony is still willing to work a full-shift without a lunch break if the shop is understaffed or particularly busy. A work ethic drilled into him from an early age in a different era of barbering. Something he feels is missing from today’s youth. He says: “The youngsters today have got it so easy. Everything comes easy to kids today compared to what it used to be in those days. Work was pretty tough, but there was plenty of jobs, you could literally go leave one job and go out and get into another job but I don’t know, with kids it was a different way of life then. “The 60s was a total revolution with styles, clothes, hair, everything. It will never ever come again the same because music kicked 20 | BarberNV Magazine
in in the late 50s and 60s and everything changed with the the pop stars like Buddy Holly - and that’s where the hairstyles came from, from the pop stars. It’s quite funny being at my age and working in my shop, I get the youngsters come in and say ‘I want a zero fade into a one’ and they look at me and say ‘Oh can you do that?’ and I say ‘I was probably doing that before your mum and dad were born.’”
When I opened up this shop people used to think it was the dole office because they’d be queuing outside.
Shame on any youngster that underestimates the skill of this master craftsman, a man who for over 50 years has been creating styles the equal of, or better, than any top barber can replicate today, even with better tools. Where there’s a will, there’s a way. “You could do everything in those days it just took more time,” Tony explains. “We used the cutthroat razor with the bald fades. You lather it up basically the same, you even use it in the same way. Blending was a little more difficult but my boss used to say if you don’t put a line in you don’t have to take it out and that’s the way we worked those days. But the methods they use today, they go up and they put a line all the way round then they go up and put a line all the way around then they take it all out. Personally I don’t do that, I literally just find the length I want to go to and that’ll be it and then I’ll work down from that and finish with a razor in the neck to do the bald fade.” Expert advice from an old school legend. You can hear more from Tony by watching my full interview with him on my YouTube channel “Larry the Barber Man”.
Join us S ubscribe toda y £30 a year with free p&p INSPIRING BRITISH BARBERING SUCCESS
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INSPIRING UK & IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS
aLAN BEAK Rob and Dan Rix Joth Davies Larry the Barber Man
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Written by barbers, for barbers. I nspiring U K and I reland B arbering S uccess
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As barbers eagerly anticipate new revelations at Salon International on 15-17 October, Takara Belmont is one stand not to be missed.
DREAM INSPIRATIONS
LET’S TALK DREAMS!
As world-leading designers and manufacturers of barber chairs, grooming equipment, and furniture, the growth of men’s grooming and barbering has been met with an acceleration in new products, and the reinvention of some of their most iconic equipment. Drawing on almost a century of barbering heritage and global influences, the iconic Apollo 2, for example, boasts a newly refined edition; the Apollo 2 Elite. The Legacy 95 builds on tradition with a finessed, updated version marking the brand’s 95th anniversary, and the recent introduction of the Halo collection brings styling furniture of a quintessentially British vintage that will comfortably nestle in a retro grooming emporium, offering a very distinctive brand of class and elegance. Add to this Takara Belmont’s venture into barber stations and you’ll be justifiably impressed. The stylishly-robust Aubrey Barber Station, available in three-wood finishes with an integrated Majolica Porto ceramic basin, defines barbershop interiors and delivers the quality, durability, and design longevity that is the hallmark of every Takara Belmont.
Quality without compromise extends to interior design too. Step on to stand J110 and talk about your vision for the perfect barbershop. You’ll discover how their complementary Space Design service brings your ideas to life, as the team works in partnership with you to combine textures, colours, interior styling, and space planning to maximise your visual and commercial performance! And there’s more. See Takara Belmont’s barber equipment in action and prepare to be inspired, as legendary barber Joth Davies and his Savills Barbers team perform live grooming demonstrations. So why wait? To pre-book an appointment call 020 7515 0333 or email hairdressing@takara.co.uk We look forward to seeing you there!
* Space Design Service features Takara Belmont furniture and equipment and is FREE subject to a minimum spend of £5,000.00 on Takara Belmont products.
22 | BarberNV Magazine
PRODUC T
Captain Fawcett Booze and Baccy Eau De Parfum Ricki Hall and the Captain have teamed up to produce this most manly of aftershaves. Top notes of bay rum, zesty orange, and bergamot combine with luxuriant base notes of honeyed fresh tobacco leaves to create a masculine, old-fashioned scent. £65 – www.captainfawcett.com
Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Energising Moisture Treatment Label.men Deconstructor This versatile, matte-textured product uplifts roots for a long lasting, fuller look. Mould, sculpt, and experiment to create your desired hair style with a firm hold and a dry matte finish. Suitable for all hair types, it boosts volume and adds thickness to hair.
A non-oily moisturiser enriched with vitamins C and E, chestnut extract, and soy to help revitalise dull and fatigued skin. The secret weapon in any man’s arsenal to help improve the skin’s look and texture. £21 – www.kiehls.co.uk
£11.95 – www.labelm.com/uk
Structure Smoothshock
Jason Shankey Moisture Balm Introduce your clients to the moisturising, nourishing qualities of this soothing balm, packed with vitamins and antioxidants to tighten pores, moisturise dry skin and reduce the appearance of redness after shaving. £9.95 – www.jasonshankey.com
Fuel to tame that unmanageable hair, this nourishing foaming oil is designed for creating sexy, smooth hairstyles. Especially fantastic on curly hair as it adds more definition and separation but works its wonder on all hair types, lengths, and textures, and both damp and dry hair. £13.35 – www.structurehair.co.uk
Imperial Gel Pomade Combining the best properties of gels and pomades to create a new hybrid styling medium, it goes in light and smooth, providing a sculptable precision that will dry into the hair and harden for an all day, stay-in-place hold. £23.75 - www.beardsmen.co.uk
Uppercut Deluxe Pomade Uppercut Deluxe Pomade gives you a strong hold with the right amount of shine which doesn’t dry out; this pomade really does have it all. The best bit – it washes out with absolutely no fuss. Uppercut Deluxe Pomade was designed for the discerning kinda guy who has a particular style in mind. Perfect for timeless, classic looks such as high pompadours, side parts or slick-back sides. £16 - www.uppercutdeluxe.com
Editor’s ChoiceENVY 24 | BarberNV Magazine
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Agents Wanted We are looking for agents to sell the exciting new Johnny’s Chop Shop grooming range to independent barber’s shops.
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E M P E R O R Unconventionally British
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BarberNV Magazine | 25
PRODUC T
American Crew Heavy Hold Pomade An instant classic, American Crew have confirmed why many consider them to be the pinnacle of barbering products with this firm hold pomade that leaves your hair with an intense shine. Despite its strength, it washes out easily, ready for you to shake it up again the next day. £14.50 – www.americancrew.com
Blind Barber Lemongrass Tea Hair Shampoo & Bodywash Formulated with a ‘Custom Spirit’ blend to remove product, build-up, and debris – not everything else – leaving your hair with an effortless comb through. Use daily to keep your hair clean and smooth. £15 – www.newmen.co.uk
Fudge Professional Matte Hed Designed to deliver outstanding definition, flexible hold, and an ultra-fashionable super matte finish, this dry texturising paste is crammed full of natural waxes, clays, and wheat proteins to smooth the cuticle and maximise hydration, boosting the hair’s condition and ensuring outstanding results. £12.45 – www.fudgeprofessional.com
Copacetic Cream From the team behind Savills Barbers, this pliable thickening cream gives effortless hold. Defines looser styles with a subtle almond scent thanks to the almond oil and panthenol to help improve the condition and health of your hair. £14 – www.savillsbarbers.com
Suavecito Firme Hold Pomade Kicking it up a notch from their original hold pomade, Suavecito have created the ideal product for anyone whose pomp or side part needs a little extra help. Strong and tough, it doesn’t flake and washes out easily. £15.95 – www.hairpomades.com
OSMO Silverising Violet Protect and Tone Styler
Paul Mitchell MITCH Barber’s Classic High Shine Pomade
With the current trend for blonde and silver highlights in men’s hair, this is just the ticket for eliminating any unwanted yellow tones in highlighted, bleached, or natural tones. It nourishes and restores colour radiance whilst promoting body and shine.
For creating classic styles or slicked back looks, you need a high shine pomade that leaves the hair with slick texture and definition. This hits the spot, taming curls and waves with smooth control.
£8.80 – www.osmo.uk.com
£14.95 – www.mankind.co.uk
StylingENVY 28 | BarberNV Magazine
P RO DU C T
Andis Barber Combo Kit How about this for a dynamic duo? Now barbers can get two required tools in one pack, with the ever popular US Pro clipper and the new 230v T-Outliner keeping you prepared for any eventuality.
BaByliss PRO Rapido £89.99 + VAT – www.andis.com
Ever wanted to handle a Ferrari engine? Of course you have. Now you can with the BaByliss PRO Rapido dryer and its Ferarri-designed MaxLifePRO brushless motor. It’s not just incredibly cool, it makes it super light, ultraquiet, and high speed, with reduced friction and vibration for smooth operation. Perfect for fast styling and drying. £90 – www.babylisspro.co.uk
Valera Classic 1955 Combining the style and charm of yesteryear with the professional standards of hair stylists and their trendy customers of today, this vintage-look hairdryer is the perfect blend of technology and tradition, power and endurance, design and convenience. £99.95 – www.astonandfincher.co.uk
Andis T-Liner Cordless Trimmer
ghd IV Styler Providing you with perfect results every time, these are the king of straighteners. A necessary addition to any salon to give your clients the looks they desire, with flawless and effortless styling. Advanced ceramic technology ensures a smooth finish with every use.
This smart looking clipper gives you all the convenience of a cordless hair clipper and with a simple switch of its supplied snap-on blades you can transform it into an equally convenient hair trimmer. Such versatility means you can now do all your clipping and trimming with just one tool. £44.50 – www.coolblades.co.uk
£99 – www.mankind.co.uk
ElectricalENVY BarberNV Magazine | 29
Uppercut Deluxe Aftershave Moisturiser
PRODUC T
Designed to perfectly compliment their shave cream as part of the daily routine for your clients that just want a good, clean shave. With minimal fragrance, this cream based product leaves the skin smelling clean and feeling fresh, ready for a touch of fragrance. £13 – www.uppercutdeluxe.com
Elegance Plus Earth Shaving Gel Dispenses as a clear gel for easy visibility and there’s no need for a hot towel as this sensitive and refreshing shaving gel provides a smooth and clean shave every time. £15 – www.barberblades.co.uk
Murdock Handcrafted Ceramic Lathering Bowl A lathering bowl is the traditional way of ensuring a rich and creamy lather for every shave, and this ivory bowl designed by Edwin Jagger is as good as they come. Boasting a sturdy handle and shapely, ergonomic design it adds sophistication to your daily shaving regime. £40 – www.murdocklondon.com
Joseph Lanzante Shaving Cream Specially formulated to give you an extremely comfortable yet close shave by softening the beard and adding an extra layer of protection to the skin. Simply apply a small amount to the area to be shaved and massage until only a sheen is invisible.
Proraso Protective After Shave Balm
£14.95 – www.josephlanzante.co.uk
£11.95 – www.mankind.co.uk
Enriched with aloe vera and Vitamin E to relieve and heal irritations, burns, nicks, and redness so your skin feels soothed and comfortable after shaving. You’ll feel back to your old self in no time without the usual downsides of shaving.
Big Boy Moustache Wax Your facial fur will stand out from the crowd as you gently twist and sculpt your hair into your desired look. A non-sticky treatment with long lasting formula infused with Cera Alba to keep your moustache tame and pristine. £21.95 – www.forthebigboys.co.uk
Shaving, Beard & MoustacheENVY 30 | BarberNV Magazine
No music was harmed in the making of these combs, as they are all made from damaged vinyl records. How is that for recycling? Designed with long thick teeth and wide spacing, making it easy to tangle your long, thick, and awesome beard.
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Fit for Vikings Vinyl Beard Comb
£20 – www.fitforvikings.com
Kent Brushes Slim Jim Small Men’s Pocket Comb Small and beautifully formed, this slim pocket comb is handmade and ideal to keep handy on your person. For men with fine or thinning hair, it’s buffed and polished teeth are so smooth there’s no risk of damaging your hair. £3.30 – www.kentbrushes.com
Kent Large Silvertip Brush
YS Park 525 Flex Comb
The classic brush-making company have upped their game with this contemporary style shaving brush. Hand-picked silvertip bristles are housed in an opaque acrylic handle, and it arrives in red felt, gold-trimmed presentation case.
Super flexible comb for short hair, it’s strong enough to withstand bending under pressure and heat resistant up to 220°c. Allows you to push flat against any curvature of the scalp and flexes to suitable angles for easy trimming around the ear. £10 – www.barberblades.co.uk
£87 – www.englishshavingcompany.com
Proraso Moustache Comb and Beard Brush Set This brush set will ensure that your facial hair always looks its best, with the moustache comb helping you create fun and funky styles for every occasion, whilst the beard brush will control any frizz.
£6.50 – www.mankind.co.uk
Denman D31 Medium 7-Row Volumising Brush Widely spaced pins set into an anti-static rubber pad produces volume, movement, and lift during blow-drying for a softer fuller look. Effective for detangling medium length hair, this brush is perfect for use on afro/natural hair. £8.50 – www.denmanbrush.com
Combs & BrushesENVY BarberNV Magazine | 31
What a year 2016 is turning out to be, our industry is going from strength to strength - the team at BEC are working hard to keep up with the demands of you barbers. BEC Team
Tracy Fuller
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W
e grabbed a few minutes with Tracy Fuller, Sales and Marketing Manager at BEC / SEC to reflect on the last few months, she took time to take a deep breath before telling us about what can only be described as a manic few months after the success of both Barber UK and Barber Connect. “Wow, where do I start, this industry is mind blowing at the moment it is moving so fast, but we are working hard with the barbers out there to keep ahead of the game. We have networked with so many different people who are all keen to showcase their talents not just as skilled professionals but as determined business leaders. The potential in this industry is huge, the range of individual barber shops are so diverse it makes it a joy to work with designers and manufacturers to produce furniture and equipment to compliment the entire industry. No two days are alike in our team, one day we are designing furniture for the traditional barber shops, the next day we could be drawing plans for a state of the art modern salon, everyone gets their inspiration from somewhere different, our job is to try help people realise their dream salon by providing the right furniture and equipment to create the right ambience in their shop. “Many people have stopped and asked me if we are new to the industry, as they have not heard of BEC before. It does make me have a good old chuckle to myself when I hear this. John Wright, our Director has worked in the barbering industry for over 24 years and
whilst he has got a few more grey hairs, most people still recognise him. He is well known in the industry for his knowledge, commitment and approach, he never stops thinking about where the industry is going and how we can help steer the industry in the right direction. Along with the entire team at BEC, we are dedicated to providing barbers with the right chairs and shop furniture – whatever the style or budget. “In the next few weeks we will be launching our latest range of barber furniture; our aim is to provide barbers with the best available choice, traditional or modern, new or used, to suit all budgets “There are so many challenges facing the barbering industry, from getting prime locations, to recruiting quality skilled barbers and financing affordable furniture and products to make their barber shop stand out. But, no matter what challenges the industry faces, and we have seen more than a fair few, deep down barbers still have the same goals as before: to be the best at their game and to promote their industry to all walks of life. Our aim to take the stress away when it comes to choosing their furniture, our showroom is designed to provide, knowledge, advice and inspiration in a relaxed friendly environment. “Well that’s my coffee break over, it’s great to chat again but as you are all too well aware barbers are very demanding people, it’s time to get back to the grindstone, you should come over and see our new showrooms. I will even get you a coffee as you browse around.”
THE TORNADO RED The ultimate rugged barber chair for today’s man. Quote: BARBERNV06 for your special discounted price.
BEC Call 01455 660 120 or visit www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk We buy and part exchange barber furniture. Nationwide delivery available. Visit our showroom at Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF. All products subject to VAT, Terms & Condition’s Apply.
Belmont Inova-Ex Barber Chair
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For motorised fun and utterly flexible convenience packed into a contemporary design, this is a much a pleasure to work with as it is to sit in. With a full backwash recline, synchronised extending legrest with fixed footrest, and adjustable and removable headrest. £3,856 – www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk
Barber Pro Apron Functional and stylish, these are handmade from the finest materials for the hardest working barbers. The strap sits over the shoulder for comfort (not around the neck) and they age naturally for an individual finish. £42 – www.barberpro.com
REM Duke Barbers Unit This stylish stainless steel work surface and polished basin is sleek and sophisticated, living up to the demands of a modern barber shop and comes with an additional link unit for easy access to your tools and equipment.
Rapport Gown These sophisticated gowns are the premium option to give your shope a smart and professional look, without burning a hole in your pocket. With a side tie fastening, full length sleeves, and is completely tint resistant. Purchase now get your salon name embroidered for free.
£1,380 – www.rem.co.uk
£15.95 – www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk
Chester Single Waiting Seat Based on the Chester Waiting Sofa, it offers a level of class and elegance to your shop that your clients will love. Upholstered in a smooth vinyl, it’s easy to keep clean even if your clients are enjoying a beverage while they wait. £325 – www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk
Takara Belmont Aubrey Barbering Station Robust and rugged with delicate detailing, the Aubrey features an integrated Majolica Porto ceramic wash basin with its trademark gel-filled, ergonomic neck cushion for unsurpassed client comfort. Six drawers provide maximum storage capacity for tools and products, keeping your workspace tidy and clutter-free. £2,890 – www.takarahairdressing.co.uk
Furniture & EquipmentENVY 34 | BarberNV Magazine
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Samurai Shogun Dragon Scissors
Joewell GXT 40 Thinning Scissors
Well-designed and well-balanced, made from the finest Japanese stainless 440C steel. The ergonomic offset design makes them easy to use and the convex edged blade makes these a superb styling tool. £115 – www.samuraiscissors.co.uk
As the name suggests, these scissors have 40 teeth and are one of Joewell’s highest quality thinners. Crafted by hand from a supreme stainless Japanese alloy, with a light weight and smooth action, the satin finished handles give this scissor an exceptional feel. £329.95 – www.joewell.co.uk
Kasho Limited Edition Silver Set with a beautiful Swarovski stone on the screw, these ergonomically designed offset scissors use the highest quality steel. The mirror polished convex blades and the unique tension adjustable flat screw system creates cutting perfection. £355 – www.kashoscissors.co.uk
Akito X-1 Excellence at your fingertips. These scissors provide a superb smooth feel thanks to their perfect weight balance ratio. Great for all cutting techniques: scissor over comb, chopping, and slide cutting. £250 – www.akitoscissors.com
Glamtech Ultra Rose Gold Limited Edition Experience the ultra-sharp and controlled feel of cutting with ceramic and the tough reassurance of steel simultaneously. Cannot be shattered or chipped like regular ceramic blades, the result is a cut that feels different and you’ll look the part with this special rose gold eidition. £240 – www.glamtech.co.uk
Murdock London Rosewood Handled Elliot Straight Razor The perfect first step for men who want to start shaving the traditional way but are a little wary of using sharper, exposed cutthroat razors. With one blade, a straight razor gives less irritation while also shaving closer than most modern blade razors. £50 – www.murdocklondon.com
Scissors & ThinnersENVY BarberNV Magazine | 35
Let’s go back to basics. To a time before Wahl Magic Clip or Andis Pro Alloy, when the only thing between a barber and a haircut was his scissors.
Like a knight’s sword or an archer’s bow, scissors are the tool with which a barber does battle, facing off against his arch-enemies, cowlicks and double crowns. For centuries this was all the weaponry a barber had as he took to the arena, but even now, in a world dominated by electric clippers and trimmers, it’s impossible to underestimate the importance of a good pair of scissors. To that end, it’s vital you pick ones that suit your style, that suit the task at hand, and that you want to work with day in, day out. Whether you’re a beginner or a veteran, there are plenty of options out there. With that in mind, we asked some of the biggest names in the industry to fill us in on what they use to help you get some ideas before you make the plunge.
Daniel Davies, General Manager of Pall Mall Barbers “I personally use a few different types of scissors for different kinds of cutting. For me, my 7 inch, three-hole scissors are far better than any I’ve ever used. They give you much better control and when using a scissor over comb technique, your hand movement can become a lot more free flowing. “I use Kasho scissors which were a hefty investment but well worth the money as they are incredibly comfortable and very ergonomic. They’re especially good for slice cutting and scissor over comb techniques. This being said, it’s not always about how expensive they are, it’s about how comfortable they are to use. “You can also never go wrong taking care of them with a little scissor oil!”
Steve Rowbottom, Creative Director of Westrow “Stylists usually have at least two or three pairs of scissors. They should carry different sizes and shapes. I always choose scissors with offset handles and I find the five-inch length is the most popular size. There are many factors involved in choosing scissors, such as price and word of mouth. I love Matsuzaki scissors and Yasaka scissors are ideal for a first pair.”
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Massimiliano Luca Comella, Co-Founder of Big Boy Grooming “We use Japanese scissors with convex blades as they are the sharpest type of blade with a razor-like edge. They give a very smooth cutting action and can be used for all cutting techniques but are especially good for slicing because of the ultra-sharp edge. “The scissors we use have an offset handle for a more open hand position, allowing the arm and elbow to be in a lower position when cutting which is more comfortable. This minimises hand fatigue and the chance of developing repetitive strain injury or carpal tunnel syndrome. “We have several pairs of scissors for doing different kinds of hair cutting techniques, including thinning scissors. We do not use thinning scissors on every haircut but they are a vital tool in our kit. We also use a texturiser which not only thins out the hair but adds a finish to the design and blends nicely. “Barber scissors are precision tools and need a regular cleaning and oiling – every day if possible. We use a proper mineral-based scissor oil and keep them in a leather pouch to protect them after each use.”
Joe Wilkinson, Head Barber at BStyled “Personally I am using offset 7-inch OSAKA Super Ergo Scissors - these are amazing and I wouldn’t change them. They come with lifetime warranty as well. “I don’t like straight scissors myself, but scissors are something that you have to take your time picking. Best way to find the ones you want is to go to the hair shows and give them all a go. They always have a massive range of them. “I try not to use thinners too much to be honest. I know a lot of people tend to just buy a cheap pair of thinning shears but I have made that mistake before- just buy a decent pair if you do use them. “I have got 6inch AMA Z-Line Fusion Thinners - they have been faultless.”
James Curd, Managing Director, Matakki Scissors “In our opinion, a top barber should have at least 3 styles of scissor in their collection; a long blade (offset or classic handle) ideally 6.5” or 7.0” as this is ideal for bulk cutting and scissor over comb work. A smaller scissor like a 5.5” for detailed and precision work and also a 6” thinning/texture scissor for removing weight and thinning the hair. We always recommend having one back-up pair in case you drop or damage your everyday scissor. You would be surprised at the number of hairdressers and barbers we deal with that only have one pair of scissors and then it’s panic stations when they damage them. Have a spare pair as back up, it might just save you one day. “Matakki promote the benefits of using an offset, we can pretty much guarantee that if you convert from a classic opposing style handle to an offset handle then you will be wishing you’d switched years ago. This promotes good working posture, better cutting angles and added comfort without adding pressure and strain to your wrist and shoulders. We would recommend an offset scissor and thinning scissor like our best-selling Matakki Arrow scissor as this is the most comfortable style. Your thumb is placed in a more natural position but that said, it’s important to pick up and have a feel of the scissors as this style might not suit you. Always have a professional consultation when picking your scissors as you’ll be using them all day and they must be comfortable for you. “Scissors are a very personal choice, it’s certainly not a ‘one size fits all’ rule. Choose carefully as you are spending your hard earned cash on these tools, buy the best quality steel you can afford and these tools will pay for themselves within weeks.”
BarberNV Magazine | 37
Scissor maintenance the whys and hows of a good routine. When you purchase a pair of scissors, you need them to cut at their best for as long as possible. How you treat your scissors is a key factor in their performance and life expectancy. At Spencer Scissors we are passionate about scissor education: explaining why you should take the time needed to properly care and maintain your scissors is an important part of this.
Cleaning Wiping hair and products off your blades after every haircut is crucial – for hygiene and the health of your scissors. Wet hair left on the blades creates an ideal environment for rust to form. Rust kills scissors, so taking preventative measures against it make sense.
Hair products can damage blades by: • acting as an adhesive to hold water and hair on the blade enabling rust to get a hold. • the ingredients being corrosive to metals. • the stickiness of some products can give scissors a gritty feel when cutting, which can result in mechanical damage to the scissors.
We recommend using an old piece of chamois or alternative to clean your blades. Many scissors are supplied with a small, thin piece of cloth, it’s understandable why many think it’s for keeping the metal shiny. However, used correctly, it keeps scissors sharper for longer by pushing any burrs created by cutting away from the edge. Do this as often as possible – after every haircut would be ideal. This makes such a massive difference to scissors: if this isn’t part of your scissor care routine yet, you really must try it, and here’s how…you can thank us later!
1. After cleaning your scissors, use a large piece of cloth folded double or more, and place over the edge of the blade. 2. Hold in place firmly, taking care to ensure your palm or fingers are nowhere close to the cutting edge. 3. Apply some downward pressure, and very slowly move down the blade, from base to tip. Repeat this several times for each blade.
For thinning (tapering) and texturising scissors, use the above steps for the solid blade, and the following steps for the toothed one:
1. Place a large, folded cloth in the palm of one hand. 2. Hold the scissors firmly open, and with some pressure, drag the toothed blade across the cloth.
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Oiling Another inexpensive item to have in your kit, and needs to be used on your scissors at least once a day, as it protects them from rust and keeps them cutting smoothly. Only use proper scissor oil on your scissors – please don’t be tempted to use clipper oil as they work differently.
How to use: • Hold scissors open as fully as possible. • Place one drop of oil at the base of the finger blade, and tilt the scissors downwards to allow the oil to move into the centre screw. • Wipe off any hairs that have dislodged. • Add a drop of oil along the blade length – if this is at the end of the working day, or break, leave the scissors oily, and carefully wrap them. • Slowly open and close the scissors a few times, and wipe off remaining oil from the blade. NB: If you feel your scissors are too tight, oil them before adjusting the tension – most times, this is your scissors crying out for oil!
Tensioning – for scissors in sett For many, the tension of their scissors is down to personal preference, but for scissors with any sort of internal working this is simply not true, and damages your scissors and potentially you as well. For scissors that are in sett (both blades have the correct sett curvature) it is vital that they are not ‘run loose’, as this will cause edge roll (the cutting edge of both blades but especially the finger blade will be constantly worn off) and often, nicks in the blade. Too loose tension means that you are having to pressure cut - and this is the number one cause of pain experienced by barbers and stylists alike: the effort needed to force both blades together means that the thumb is applying horizontal pressure, going against the way the thumb should work. When using sharp, in sett scissors, light vertical pressure from the thumb is all that’s needed to make them cut perfectly.
To check the tension of in sett scissors, follow the guidelines below:
1. Hold scissors in a vertical position with tips upper most. 2. With other hand, move the finger blade to a horizontal position, then let go. 3. With correct tension, the blade will move slightly (between 9 to 10 o’clock with the thumb blade being at 12). 4. If the tension is too loose, the blade will close, and the tension must be tightened for optimal performance.
With thinning (tapering) and texturising scissors, the tension must be slightly tighter.
Servicing A true, professional scissor service is as different to having your scissors sharpened as having your hair cut by a pro barber is to an overly enthusiastic junior school friend! Book your scissors in for a service as soon as you notice that your scissors cut below par or within a year of purchase – this will lessen any damage and detect/ prevent problems getting worse.
Remember
Scissor storage – never store your scissors point down in a container, or loose in a drawer or bag. Scissors must be protected properly along the length of the blade and tips. Drops – book a service as soon as possible after dropping your scissors to prevent further damage caused by them being knocked out of alignment Rust kills scissors by continuously eating the metal – good maintenance is the only prevention. If you have any questions, please see our website: www.spencerscissors.co.uk and get in touch.
BarberNV Magazine | 39
This isn’t a barbershop. It’s a social movement. While many barbers claim to be the heart of their community, Matt Robinson has the credentials to back it up.
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n a few short years he’s done more to help his local area than many government and council provided services had done in decades. A homeless shelter, offering opportunities for ex-convicts, feeding the hungry, giving kids something to do before they turn to crime. Just some of what Matt and Mister Robinson’s have given to Rugby. If it sounds like what you’d expect from a church you wouldn’t be far wrong. Plain spoken and fiercely protective of his town, Matt is a minister who having come up from the “ghetto” himself, wants to bring the sense of community spirit you find at his church to the wider area. Matt is candid about what he’s been through, saying, “I literally started cutting hair because I didn’t have food to eat and I owed money to the wrong people. For me it was a way of getting off the street.” It began a career in barbering that saw Matt working in an environment he didn’t enjoy and one he’s strived to move away from – and worked tirelessly to keep others from making the same mistakes. “Like most kids, I was stuck in a barbershop working with an owner who didn’t want to see them grow - they just care about money. I lost interest in where I was working and it wasn’t getting any better. I’m cutting hair all day long and there’s nothing happening. I was trapped with a mortgage and kids so I lost my patience with my old boss and we had a row. I decided to leave and ended up cutting at home again, 20 or 30 people coming round at a time - my missus got well pissed off about it,” he laughs. “But it took me back to when I started cutting hair, it was so chilled out. I said to myself ‘I’m going to create somewhere that’s more like a house than a shop.’” It’s these experiences in his formative years
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that inspired much of what Mister Robinson’s has become, with a host of charitable endeavours making it so much more than a barber shop. “Where I’m from there’s fuck all,” says Matt. “Out of everything, what was important to me was the opportunity to give back. It’s always been about that, not about the money – there’s a Pentecostal spirit about the place. “We’ve got a large homeless problem where we are, well, not so much now as we’ve started a homeless shelter providing overnight accommodation for 15 people who would freeze to death otherwise. We also won’t take money for haircuts if you come in with bags of food to donate. “Before I joined the church I didn’t know about this stuff, they did things but it was all among the congregation, now it’s in the wider community. I started talking about it to customers and the next thing we had too much food and too many clothes.” As well as the Hope4 project reaching out to the homeless and badly housed in Rugby, they’ve bought a boxing ring to encourage ex-cons to channel their aggression in more meaningful ways – “turning them into champions, not chavs” as Matt puts it. He’s also taken it upon himself to help the younger generation smarten up in a bid to find jobs and keep them away from the unsavoury element bringing the town down. “With all these little chavs with their skinheads, we’re telling them to grow their hair out and look after themselves. Groom yourself, don’t let yourself be groomed by these pimps and drug dealers. “We give them the look and the image – smart casual, corporate but cool. It gives them a better perspective of themselves and guys are getting jobs with their appearance,
B a r be r
M i ster Robi n son’s
Here’s to you Mister Robinson’s starting relationships because they take pride in themselves.” Amid all Mister Robinson’s incredible community achievements it’s easy to forget there’s a top quality barbershop there as well. A link-up with Apothecary 87 sees Matt helping with product development while their new partnership with American Crew has opened a world of opportunity; from doing shows all over the globe to allowing Matt and his team to educate the next generation of barbers. That responsibility to pass on what he’s learned is something Matt takes seriously and with the help of his sponsors he’s able to do more good than ever. “A lot of kids just want to be a barber because it’s cool, they don’t get the
education,” he reflects. “They join a chop shop and are expected to stay there forever and they get weighed down in the industry, but the industry doesn’t need another barber, the industry needs flair. That’s only going to happen with structure and by valuing people. I honestly believe that American Crew and people like that who are about the education can give people a skill, not just a job. “We need to champion people like Chris Foster and what he does by encouraging people to become educated. People like Luka Chitty. They’re not trying to be barbers, they are barbers. It’s who they are.” The people of Rugby are clearly grateful for both Mister Robinson’s community work and their barbering ability. With queues of three hours or longer a regular occurrence,
they’ve expanded to the upper floor of their building, which was previously the homeless shelter (which itself moved to a larger location because it was so successful). Matt has got the ball rolling on something that has already helped so many people and will continue to help them after he has moved on. “Mister Robinson’s will be there after I’m not,” he says. “I want to build something that will serve the community for a lot longer, a bit like a pub for people who don’t drink, it has that community focus. “Everything we do we set God up front. The shop is open like a modern day church but people don’t realise they’re doing God’s will. Without the label that church gives you we can still do just as much good.” BarberNV Magazine | 41
B a r be r s h o p
Stag Ba rber Co. Photos: David Fredrick Avery
Stag Party
22 Lady Lawson St, Edinburgh, EH3 9DS
Stag Barber Co. in Edinburgh’s old town has just bagged Best Barber Shop at the illustrious Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards. But owner Murray McRae is definitely one to check his ego at the door. “When you’ve worked in this industry a while, you learn it’s not about you, it’s about the client,” he says. “You learn the values of treating people well, how to speak to people. How to meet people on their level - you can’t make people come to your level all the time.” That’s an attitude Murray has brought to Stag Barber Co. since opening in 2014. “People often don’t know how to express what they want,” he says. “So our role is to try and identify problems in their hair. We look at their lifestyle, how long they take to get ready in the morning. “We look at a whole range of factors and try to create something that will make their life better.” Murray says this is a skill developed over many years, having trained at one of the UK’s most well-known salons for almost a decade before founding Stag Barber Co. at the tender age of 26. He credits his history in the salon world for a lot of the success he has today. “When you learn to be a hairdresser, you learn about hair itself rather than just learning certain styles,” he says. “You learn about hair works, about how it grows, how to style it and how it moves.” Murray started on the hairdressing path after seeing a fly-on-the-wall program about a big salon in London. “I saw all these guys and girls working together, in a really social environment, working with their clients and I knew that was what I wanted to do.” Murray was just a teenager still in school, but he arranged to do unpaid work experience at a local salon during his free periods. “I was just looking after clients, sweeping and washing hair. But it really
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exceeded my expectations.” Before long, Murray started spending his only day off in the salon, coming in Sundays where he was paid a handsome salary of £20 for a day’s work. When he finished school Murray applied for every trainee position available in Edinburgh. He was offered a job with a small scale salon, but his parents told him, “If you’re going to do this, you need to try and work at the best place.” On the back of that advice, Murray called up his first choice, the high end salon Charlie Miller, and asked why he hadn’t heard back from them. Impressed with his initiative they offered him an interview on the spot and a job that same day. Murray stayed with Charlie Miller for nine years, rising through the ranks to become head stylist, the second tier from director. “It was a really steep learning curve, it was my first real job and I had to wake up at 7am to make it to work in time from out of town on the bus.” Murray says he matured considerably over the years but eventually realised he wasn’t reaching his true potential because he had fallen out of love with cutting women’s hair. “I was tending to just do enough. I wasn’t pushing myself. With gents hair I was always pushing myself and trying to make things a lot better”. The natural progression was to focus on men’s hair, and after 8 months of planning, Murray decided to start out on his own. “I looked at a huge amount of shops ,and actually applied for 3 or 4 which I didn’t get because I was a new business.” Murray recognised that it was a risk to take him on as a tenant over an established business, but eventually found a landlord willing to take the gamble.
Stag Barber Co. is located on Lady Lawson St, just next to the locally known “pubic triangle” of Westport which boasts 3 strip clubs. “It wasn’t exactly my first preference, “ Murray says. “I thought I needed to be in the centre of town near the high street.” But one of Edinburgh’s best restaurants opened up next door and Argyle House - which had been derelict when Murray moved in - soon became home to Europe’s biggest tech base with a huge amount of male employees all needing haircuts. Two years later Murray and his employees Gary, who Murray trained himself, and Angus who also came from the salon world have just won Barber Shop of the Year. Murray says the award is huge because it’s a win not just for Stag but for the whole community of clients around him. “I wanted to create something people can be a part of. This isn’t about me, Stag isn’t a flash in the pan idea,” he says. Murray’s focus is on trying to make a wide range of clients feel comfortable and able to communicate what they want from their barber. “We should be someone’s first haircut and their last haircut,” he says. With a 98% retention rate on clientele and men booking three weeks in advance, Stag looks to be reaching that goal. Expansion plans are definitely on the horizon for Stag but right now the focus is on honing the current space. Murray is working with architects on plans for a renovation which will see the shop become a lot more minimal and streamlined. “I want it to look like something special, and it’s not just something that’s been thrown together overnight,” he says. Murray is excited by the boom in the barbershop industry, but wants his shop to be timeless, rather than trendy. “We try not to follow the crowd. We want to do our own thing, keep our clients happy and create something people want to be part of,” he says. “So the shop should speak for the work that we do.” A product line is also in the works, but like everything this also a slow and considered process for Murray. “I try and make everything the absolute best it can be. Because if you try for the absolute best, if you fall short what you end up with is something really good that you can be proud of,” he says. “So it’s better to aim the absolute highest and that’s what we’re doing. With the renovations, with the products, with the training.” And a deep understanding of clients’ needs are keeping Stag Barber Co. on the right track. “It’s weird, clients don’t always tell you if they like it or not. But them coming back over and over again says more than words ever could.”
BarberNV Magazine | 43
Lynndy Rolfe Creativity and passion are two things that make real talent stand out in this industry, and Lynndy Rolfe has them both by the bucket load.
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t’s hard to find something that this top hairdresser and British Master Barber hasn’t excelled at. She’s a Creative Educator at ghd, a session stylist for Hairbond, and has recently signed up to do education for Andis. Oh, and did we mention she dabbles in TV presenting? Lynndy literally does it all. Starting in hairdressing at the Vokes salons group over a decade ago, Lynndy impressed in women’s hairdressing and stumbled into barbering by chance when asked to manage one of the group’s barbershops. Lucky for us! And with her background in hairdressing she’s keen to change the way people look at the industry. “I love barbering,” she tells us. “But it all falls under the banner of men’s hairdressing which is slightly controversial and people get upset about it, but the hairdressing industry is worth billions, barbering is worth millions. So if you’re under men’s hairdressing then there’s more opportunity than just barbering. It doesn’t devalue it in anyway but it just fits you into a certain vision of barbershops: trim on top, short back and sides. For men’s hairdressing and male grooming it’s about treating men in the right way – fashion forward, cut and colour. It makes people think they are being looked after.” Lynndy is more than just talk. She’s keen to encourage barbers to get more education and broaden their horizons. She says: “In barbering there’s no colour, no
44 | BarberNV Magazine
blow drying. I think the education needs to be understanding restructuring hair, the science behind the colour and what you’re working with. “I’m a state registered hairdresser and barber and there’s not many that do both. I’m not saying you need to have Level 2 or Level 3 barbering but going to seminars and seeing people educating is very important. It pays in so many ways; it pays financially, it pays for the future, it pays for inspiration, it’s really key you get to constantly see new techniques.” It’s no surprise with this love of education that she’s been in demand as an educator for the biggest names in the industry both for barbering and hairdressing. “I’ve done a lot of educating for GHD and I love it. I really enjoy it but the only thing is it’s a very hairdressing type job which is fine, but my heart is in the barbering side. “Andis came to me and I had to do a couple of auditions with them. I made a really good relationship with Aileen [Nunez, former International Education Manager]. She’s such a beautiful person, I absolutely adore her! I’ve been with them officially since May and I’m going to be with them at Salon International this month. “I’ve been so lucky to have done a bit of everything. I’ve had so many opportunities including with Hairbond, Wahl, and other industry people.” While those companies might be the cream of the crop, a more bizarre offer has recently piqued Lynndy’s interest, to give education to people who need it the most – in a prison. “When I got the message to do education in a prison I was just like ‘Oh my god!’ It never occurred to me till the opportunity arose, this is what I want. It’s about training young offenders and giving them opportunities to live normal lives. That’s my dream. All I want to do is help people and spread the barbering word. Barbering has come a long way now and the education is a massive thing for me. “I don’t mean to have everything with a
qualification, it’s not about that. I’m not an academic person, I’m creative. I want to work with people who think it’s impossible and show them it is possible. You get all these cool barbers with tattoos, I’m not a particularly cool barber, I don’t have loads of tattoos, but I care, I care so much about this industry.” With the industry growing year-on-year thanks to the input and sacrifice of barbers like Lynndy, there’s never been a better time to be involved in it. Events like Barber Connect and The Great British Barber Bash are bringing the community closer together and have shown the interest not only from barbers but from the wider world. Lynndy is a veteran of the stage and can’t speak highly enough about the shows. “I’ve been to Great British Barber Bashes, I’ve been to different barbering things and I love them. I think they’re brilliant. Such good opportunities for people to connect and network. “I’ve been doing shows since I was 19; worked with Wahl on stage twice, I’ve done Toni & Guy, Andis, and this year I’m doing Salon International for the Hair Journal a second time.” While Lynndy is known for all the work she’s done helping other people in barbering and hairdressing, some step-by-step videos that she put on YouTube have held her land a rather unusual gig – television presenting. “It’s for a company called TDV Productions. They produce and direct TV adverts and social media adverts. Not really hairdressing related but it’s such good fun! It’s unpredictable work and I don’t know what’s coming, I just get the script a couple of days before the start filming so I have to read it over and commit it to memory. It’s another string to my bow!” Lynndy has one hell of a bow and though she’s tight-lipped about what the future might hold for her – she’s putting plans to open her own salons on hold while she pursues one of her many other opportunities – we’re sure she’ll be making waves for years to come, whether it’s in the TV world or the barbering world.
BarberNV Magazine | 45
HAIR LOSS CONTROL Losing your hair can be distressing for any man, but even more so for someone working in the hair industry.
Before Treatment
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arbers judge one another, customers judge their barbers; let’s be honest, everyone judges everyone. It can be damaging to your confidence to not feel comfortable in your own skin and that has an effect on both your professional and personal life. However, more and more options are available to halt and even prevent hair loss before it gets to the stage of affecting your self-esteem – see the opposite page for more information on some of these products. But technology has advanced so far that even if you’re at the stage of being fully bald you can do something other than a toupee. Many celebrities, including Wayne Rooney, have been open about the work they’ve had done, and if a millionaire superstar footballer feels the need to have work done on his hair line then you can understand why your average Joe wants it as well. Barber Will Devey started going bald at 19 and after a decade of ribbing from his mates he finally decided to do something about it. “I was cutting hair when a customer came in and said his dad had just had it done and said I could do with it, the cheeky sod!” Will laughs as he tells us about it. “I had a look and it niggled in the back of my head so I started researching it on the internet.” After considering all his options, Will
46 | BarberNV Magazine
After Treatment
Scars Before & After
Jagged Hairline
Prevention is better than cure Joe Wilkinson, head barber at BStyled says: “For hair that has already gone, personally I don’t think they have hit the nail on the head with it yet. I am still to find something that has really taken my attention.
eventually settled on Scalp Micro Pigmentation, a revolutionary process that restores receding hairlines and gives the illusion of a full head of hair even for people without a single hair on their head. “I looked at hair transplants but being a barber I’ve seen plenty of scars on people who’ve had them and it just looks awful. It’s also too expensive so I preferred to go for the Scalp MicroPigmentation as fortunately I suit having a shaven head. Now it looks like I have a full head of hair but choose to keep it shaved.” Although it might not seem like much, the difference for Will has been massive, saying it “boosted my confidence ten-fold. It’s given me a whole new lease of life. Being in the barbering industry all I do is cut men’s hair so I always wanted to have nice hair or at least the look of nice hair.” Will’s research led him to Brandwood Clinic, one of the pioneers of Scalp Micro Pigmentation, with senior practitioners Simon Lane and Paul Clark responsible for inventing many of the techniques used. With each of the three sessions required
lasting three to five hours, and it not being a completely painless experience, Will wanted to go with someone he felt comfortable with and Brandwood fitted the bill. “I would recommend Brandwood to anyone going bald,” he says. “Everyone there was top dollar and made me feel like family. It was very clean, they put me at ease, and when you’re there for five hours at a time you want to feel comfortable. Whatever your situation they have other techniques and procedures to suit you.” Now that he’s happy with his hairline, it’s boosting Will in every area of his life. His barbering career is on the up and with the confidence gained from his procedure he’s getting involved in more stage work at large barbering events like Barber UK and Hair UK. So whether you’re just seeing the first signs of losing your hair or if you’re at Will’s stage, there are options out there. Don’t panic and keep your hair on!
“However, I find that a lot of guys don’t use the best of shampoos and conditioners. So I find prescribing a quality cleansing product is key before the hair loss starts or right at the start when guys first notice it. “I am really liking Eufora Hero For Men. The complete shampoo, when used daily is great for hair and scalp. Eufora is all natural and they believe that your hair is an extension of your skin, so look after your scalp and your hair will be healthy too – simple!” Here’s a look at a few more products that can keep hair loss at bay.
Davines Naturaltech Energising Lotion
For fragile hair that’s prone to falling out, this lotion revitalises and strengthens the scalp with a deep stimulation. Ideal for hair loss due to stress and seasonal factors. £46.30 – www.davines.com
Phyto Phytologist 15 A natural and effective solution using a high concentration of plant extract, this anti-hair loss treatment tackles all types of hair loss by stimulating new hair growth and increasing the hair bulb volume for stronger, thicker, and more resistant hair growth. £79 –www.lookfantastic.com
Montibello Chronos Concentrate If you’re dealing with hair loss of a hereditary origin, the Chronos Concentrate activates the hair follicle stem cells, stimulating the scalp and combating genetic hair loss. £32 – www.montibello.com
men’s beauty products on the increase
Words: Dr Lauren Jamieson
In today’s society, the female beauty industry is worth billions worldwide and the industry pours vast resources into developing the latest concepts and technologies. But in the past decade there has been a quiet shift in the background - men are catching up. This year, sales of beauty products for men are expected to reach nearly £15bn with some retailers reporting increases of 300% in some countries.
i
t is very clear then that men are taking grooming and skin health into their lifestyle and ascribing them growing importance. As such, they are inevitably vulnerable to the same issues that have existed for a long time in the female domain - what should they buy and what is going to work?
Skin: Men Vs Women Men and women have some inherent differences in their skin but overall the basic structure is the same in terms of the layers - epidermis (outermost layer), dermis (middle layer which is active in making new cells and maintaining overall health of the skin) and hypodermic (subcutaneous fat and connective tissue which form the foundations). Increased testosterone levels do have an effect on men. Male skin is generally 25% thicker than female skin but will gradually decline in thickness continuously over time, whereas women maintain consistent skin thickness until around age 50, also based on hormonal factors. Greater thickness refers to a higher density of collagen in the dermis but also to more layers in the epidermis and the stratum corneum - the toughest and most superficial skin which is seen on the surface. Thicker stratum corneum lends male skin a much rougher texture with larger, more visible pores. Further related to large pore size is the amount of sebum (naturally produced oil) found
48 | BarberNV Magazine
in male skin following onset of puberty. Once again, high androgen levels are responsible for this. Oil significantly reduces natural exfoliation and is known to be most inflammatory to the skin, thereby disrupting the skin’s natural barrier function (causing reactive or “sensitive” skin)
and thus refuting the conventional wisdom that male skin should automatically be treated with more aggression than female skin. Furthermore increased sebum may also lead to greater incidence of acne. One visible difference between male and female facial skin, of course, is male facial hair
and the question of grooming it! This important factor needs to be taken into consideration when looking at skin health and men - and men themselves statistically see this as the most important part of addressing care of their face.
What Is Healthy Skin? But what do we actually mean by “healthy skin”? We might generally recognise it when we see it but actually capturing all the elements and describing them is often difficult, even for those in the industry. Though we have acknowledged some differences between male and female skin, the definition of healthy skin in fact has no gender difference. Skin should be smooth with good exfoliation and be firm and tight, indicating dense collagen and elastin. Even colour and skin tone with hydrated tissues suggest strong barrier function and resilience so skin is tolerant. There should be freedom from visible clinical problems such as acne or rosacea and the skin should have even contours. Not a great deal to ask, is it?!
Lifestyle
While there are any number of brands available on the commercial market, there are clear benefits in choosing a physician-advised skin health programme which is evidence-based and clinically proven - such as ZO Skin Health and ZO Medical developed by world-renowned Dermatologist Dr Zein Obagi, MD. A bastion of the international dermatological community, Dr Obagi has committed his professional career to developing cutting-edge skin treatment and maintenance programmes based on a wealth of clinical data. The goals of the ZO programmes are in line with achieving what we established above to be
“healthy skin”. They seek to stabilise the skin, improving tolerance, strength, and renewal while repairing DNA and minimising pigmentation and improving overall appearance. These are tools with high concentrations of active ingredients in protected delivery systems to deliver the most targeted, effective, and sustainable results seen today. As medical grade skin care, these programmes are available following consultation with highly trained prescribers skilled in examining male skin and creating a tailored skin care packaged addressing each man’s individual needs. Find you nearest clinic by contacting Wigmore Medical.
There is a natural tendency to focus on products and programmes when considering how to achieve skin health - this is not unreasonable but it is also the case that skin is an outward reflection of inner health. Good skin starts with factors in all of our control - nutrition, hydration, sleep, stress, alcohol intake. Water, vitamins and minerals are all utilised by other organs before reaching the skin. Hence the commonly stated advice to drink even more water and eat even more fruit and vegetables. Other factors such as high levels of sugar in the diet are also worthy of mention as this contributes to oxidative stress - the major mechanism of DNA damage and subsequent ageing. Alcohol we all know to be a toxin, particularly in excess and so will also impact on the skin, not least due to dehydration. However few people will live a “perfect” lifestyle (nor is this necessarily desirable!) and influences such as pollution and sun exposure may be out with our direct control, but the correct skin health programme can significantly mitigate these issues.
Skin Health All men can have healthy, balanced, resilient skin which is free from problems such as acne and rosacea with information and education about skin physiology and the technologies available to achieve these goals. It is clear that the male market is increasingly discerning and men are seeking effective, practical products which live up to claims made. However, skin health products conventionally work superficially, treating only the surface of the skin. Men need to be encouraged to seek products harnessing active ingredient and carrier mechanism technologies which work logically with the natural physiology of the skin and facilitate the following key steps: • Cleanse • Shave • Exfoliate • Control sebum (oil) • Treat/prevent signs of ageing - vitamin A (retinol/retinoic acid), vitamin C and alpha and beta-hydroxy acids • Sun protection.
BarberNV Magazine | 49
M a nifesto, London Manifesto is the destination for the well-informed London man, delivering the finest male hairdressing and grooming experience from its ‘understatedluxe’ Leather Lane, EC1 site. A collaboration between Corrado Tevere, Creative Director of the Radio Salon and Gallery Group and Mikey Pearson, celebrity and session groomer and educator, Manifesto takes a modern relaxed approach to the barber shop, with an in-house gallery, fashion installations, and lifestyle gifts. The salon offers traditional barber clipper cuts, detailed scissor cuts, wet shaves and beard grooming, executed by a group of the best stylists in the business, in a sophisticated, relaxing environment. Corrado and Mikey have their finger on the pulse of cool, and a combined 32 years of award-winning hairdressing, resulting in a vast body of work that spans backstage, editorial, and celebrity clients. A black burnt timber and black cold rolled milled steel bar, with brushed brass accents and high stools gives clients a space for working and craft beer, gin, and
whisky drinking. A polished concrete floor, matt black and teal walls set a mellow mood enhanced by the lighting - frosted glass globes and ceramic fittings from Zangra and simple brass rod lights from Rockitt St George. Opaque black glass display shelves house the finest from Bumble and bumble – a session stylist’s secret weapon - and Haeckels, the natural fragrance and grooming seaweed aficionados. The Gallery’s opening exhibition was with creative collective Art Comes First; a pop-up with Trickers X George Cox, and we can expect to see many more top collections in the future. Manifesto aim to offer a range of services to fit every client, so if you need a 30 minute express tidy-up or a 1hr 45 minute fully work-up (with head massage and glass of whiskey, of course), you’ll find yourself equally satisfied. You can book by telephone on 020 7430 1630 or online through their website at www.man-ifesto.com
96b Leat he r La ne, London, EC1N 7 T X 50 | BarberNV Magazine
Legacy Gen ts St y lists, Glasgow All the quality of a city centre salon, but with the convenience and affordability of its east end location. That’s what Glasgow’s Legacy Gents Stylists is aiming to achieve under the ownership of Alisha Storrie, a young barber with a bright future. Having spent seven years learning the trade, including a spell working as a hairdresser, Alisha is ready to branch out on her own and is determined to get the men of Glasgow looking sharp and feeling looked after. It’s not a typical cut and run barbers, with backwash and styling included in your service at a very affordable £14.50 compared to upwards of £30 just a couple of miles away in Glasgow city centre. Duke Street is a fashionable and trendy area of the city, popular with students and fashionistas alike, but Legacy’s style and Alisha’s talent have already ensured a solid client base. Vintage and classy, the décor evokes Alisha’s personal style, with her passion for bowler hats shown in the bespoke lights in the window. Whiskey barrel furniture and old-
fashioned mirrors complete the cozy and comfortable look. While Legacy may hark back to another age, the cuts are stylish and sharp, as demanded by the modern male, although Alisha has undergone training with the guys at Menspire to stay up-to-date and relevant in the ever changing barber game. With Vines Vintage and OSMO products retailing in Legacy, it maintains a sense of being economical for the local clientele without sacrificing on quality, but Alisha’s plans include moving into making her own products when possible, as well as expanding into currently unused space at the back of the shop to grow Legacy into a much bigger operation. This shop is Alisha’s Legacy in every sense of the term and she’s working hard to make it a success, with the salon open six days a week (except from Sunday), for her customers to come in and enjoy a haircut in a laid back atmosphere (beers available on Saturdays) while guaranteeing as good a service as you’ll find in the city.
6 47 Du ke St, Gl a sgow, La n a rk sh i re, G31 1QA
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Behind the Brand: Fudge Professional
Hair by: Mazella&Palmer Creative Team for Fudge Professional
Hair by: London School of Barbering for Fudge Professional
Fudge Professional is celebrating 25 years at the top of the industry, having cemented its place as the brand of choice for hair professionals from Brisbane to Barcelona. 52 | BarberNV Magazine
Tina Outen for Fudge Professional Belstaff, London Collection Men
W
ith salon quality products and creative partnerships with the likes of Mazella&Palmer and London School of Barbering, Fudge Professional continues to innovate and resonate with the next generation of hairdressers and barbers. The last quarter of a century has seen so much happen for the company, from corporate takeovers to more product launches than we can count so it’s been no easy task keeping the brand current, yet Sue Lever, Education Specialist and the rest of the team at Fudge Professional have managed it. “I think it’s as relevant as it has always been,” Sue tells us. “It’s seen as a cool brand, originating from Australia and the surfer type feel, it quickly achieved a real cult following which still resonates today with the ‘Planet F’ following we’ve cultivated.” Planet F is the umbrella under which the entire world of Fudge Professional is contained, bringing their events, products, and fans together through social media and creating a space to share and celebrate creativity and flair. How they keep it fresh is with their new products and the doors they open to creating new designs. It’s a vital part of the brand says Sue. “We have a great New Product Development team who we work very closely with and we also interact with our markets at every level to ensure we are always aware of what is going on in the various countries. We also have a Creative Design council who come from all parts of the industry who are involved in our development process. “Product innovation has always been a key part of what Fudge Professional is about. Product performance is key in our industry; there is no cutting corners so if it’s not right it doesn’t ever make it to the production line. In the last few years our permanent/demi-permanent hair colour range, Fudge Professional Headpaint, is being discovered by more and more colourists. It used to be the best kept secret, but when hairdressers use it and know they get the colour results they want, they won’t use anything else. It’s a gem that needs to shine.” Great products attract great talent and Fudge Professional is renowned for its collaborations with some of the biggest names in the industry – including Mazella&Palmer who swear by their products. “The guys are so creative and are forward thinking with their education,” enthuses Sue. “They are a dream to work
with and they love our products, so it’s a win-win for us both. Jean-Baptiste Mazella told us he loves Fudge Professional for its amazing range of colour products, which is always great to hear. “It’s a huge compliment as Jean-Baptiste is a stylist, but he knows a cut compliments a great colour, as a great colour compliments a cut. So there is a mutual respect there. The Fudge Professional Headpaint and Paintbox range covers the whole spectrum so it doesn’t matter which shades JeanBaptiste and Dove [Palmer] want to portray in their collections, as we have the unlimited palette to be able to create it.” Last issue’s Academy of the Month, London School of Barbering, are another of the industry’s big boys who are benefitting from a Fudge Professional partnership and Sue is delighted with how successful the link has been. She says: “The co-owners, Justis and Michael, are great guys; I’ve been lucky to spend some time with them in the academy and it’s like a well-oiled machine, I have never seen so many models going through those doors. The whole team work together and the students really get such a well-rounded education. From refreshers courses to youngsters coming straight on the floor with no previous knowledge to being salon ready, amazing. They love working with our products and the retail opportunity for them is outstanding.” These collaborations have reaffirmed Fudge Professional’s ties with the master barber and hairdresser, something they tried to empathise a few years ago when they rebranded from Fudge to Fudge Professional, an action Sue says was done to show they were much more than just the cool kid on the block. Now owned by PZ Cussons Beauty, Fudge Professional has more support and logistical backing than ever before to continue to grow and expand, which Sue says we can expect to see in the near future. “We never stand still, so we already have a few launches in the pipeline; we have one of the best violet shampoos on the market so we will carry on taking this franchise to the next level. Colour is key to us and some exciting news is coming early next year. Our mixology master competition started with a bang when we launched it this year, so we will maximise this in the future. The brand is growing at a breath taking rate so we will continue with our collaborations, looking forward but always remembering who is at the heart of this brand, and that is the hairdresser.”
BarberNV Magazine | 53
Insuring Success Running your own business is a stressful matter. You are responsible for everything, big or small, and there’s no one to turn to when things get tough. This is true in any business but barbering has its own concerns that make it particularly difficult. That’s why we recommend you hope for the best but prepare for the worst.
and, inevitably, will go wrong at some point.
M
best, while your natural instinct is to go for value
argins are slim for barbers, we all feel it, that’s why so many put off paying for insurance – they can’t afford to spend £50 a month when things are as tight as they are. But that’s exactly why they need to find that extra bit of cash, because if the worst does happen, they’ll be left in a hole too deep to climb out from. Now, maybe you fancy taking your chances. You know it’s unlikely that some catastrophic event is going to happen to you so you’ll just take the risk and not pay for insurance. That’s understandable, after all, everyone thinks “Oh it won’t happen to me”. But remember it doesn’t need to be some big disaster that puts you in a predicament, it could be a run of the mill everyday little inconvenience. A broken pair of scissors here, a problem with the boiler there. Issues like this happen every day but could leave you with a bill in the hundreds of pounds to get back to working the way you need to work. Now maybe, at a push, you can find the money to
54 | BarberNV Magazine
sort something like this out but now you’re right on the line and one more problem could be the difference between keeping your business afloat and letting it sink. Why risk it? There are now numerous companies specialising in barbershop insurance who’ll give you a free quote and work with you to create a plan that suits what you need at a price you can afford. Everyone is in a different situation – from where you are based to who you’re working alongside. You might be a one-man-band operating out of your car as a mobile barber, you might run a shop with two chairs, one of which you rent out on a monthly basis. Whatever your situation, there are plans to suit you that will take away a lot of the risk associated with being your own business. By speaking to a professional insurance company you’ll learn what specifically can affect you and how they can help you. Whether it’s illness or injury, theft or loss, there are countless things that can go wrong,
Your insurance company will walk you through everything you’re covered for and explain how they’ll look after you if the worst should happen. Peace of mind is an undervalued concept. Although you can’t put a monetary value on it, knowing that you’ll be taken care of will be a weight off your shoulders that can benefit you mentally and emotionally. The job you do is hard enough so anything that helps you sleep easier at night should be welcomed and encouraged! When it comes to choosing which plan suits you for money, looking for a name you can trust is of vital importance when it comes to insurance. Some insurance companies are now seeing the value in specifically targeting barbers and therefore they understand the problems and pitfalls you are likely to go through much more than your bog standard business insurance mob. Certainly you want to get your money’s worth – that’s the whole point – but you want a brand that ‘gets’ barbering. That’s why we’ve always been impressed by Slade Edwards who have shown a genuine interest in getting to know the barbering community and communicating with them about their needs and wants. Always remember to ask as many questions about it as you feel you need to be comfortable. Don’t rush into anything you’re not happy with, but don’t forget that you’re making an investment into your future success and the future of your business, so don’t put it off too long.
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BarberNV Magazine | 55
Opening a Second Barber Shop Successfully Internationally renowned stylist Joseph Lanzante is about to open his second barber shop, The Men’s Room in Manchester Victoria station. With 30 years’ experience and a portfolio of 12 highly successful hair salons under his belt, Joseph is the expert in opening new salons. Joseph set up The Men’s Room in Lancashire eight years ago and is expanding his chain to the city based train station. Here are his top tips and exclusive advice for opening a second barber shop.
1. Don’t rush into it You need to make sure your first barber shop is successful before embarking on a new challenge. There is no point spending time and energy on a new salon when you really should be focusing on making your current one the best it can be. That way you can learn from your mistakes and make sure the opening of the new one, when you’re ready, goes smoothly.
2. Staff
obviously a busy location, so I can target commuters. It is a great position with lots of passer-by, and they don’t have another option, therefore I can look at charging a slightly higher price. When you are trying to figure out what to charge, look at the shop and decide, is it five star, four star, three star, or lower? You can then set your prices accordingly. You cannot charge five star prices if you are a three star salon and equally, don’t charge three star prices if you are a five star barbershop. It is all about balance.
The first thing you need to look at when opening a second barber shop is staff. Do that before you even think about opening so that you can bring them into your existing salon to teach them and familiarise them with your system and what is expected of them. You must remember that you will not be spending all your time there so you need to have staff that you can rely on and who will follow your methodology.
4. Interior Design
3. Overheads
5. Customer Experience
It all really comes down to overheads. It is important that you don’t spend all your time and effort on just paying the bills. The key considerations to look at are: footfall, ticket average, and location which all add up to helping you work towards making a profit. If you are in a down market location then you will have to charge down market prices. If you are in a premium location, yes rent may be more but you can charge more. I am opening up in Manchester Victoria which is
New clients will be walking through your door and you need to build a relationship with them. It isn’t just about the hair cut but it is also about the customer experience as a whole. The experience the client has whilst in the salon is what they remember. For a final note, never undersell yourself. Best of luck with your new endeavour and I hope that these tips help you to expand your brand successfully, as I have.
Keep the theme consistent throughout your barber shops in order to create a trusted and recognisable brand. Also, do not follow trends! Always go for class and elegance. That is a timeless look which never goes out of style. If you follow trends you have to do a refit every four or five years and if you don’t then you become yesterday’s news.
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PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk
56 | BarberNV Magazine
Penny Etheridge’s steps to opening a second shop Step 1 Ask yourself why you want to do this? Ego never paid any bills. Set honest, realistic goals.
Step 2 What new team members do you need to recruit? An enlarged team need different strengths. SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, threats) analyse your current team to ascertain any gaps then work to fill those positions. Narrow your search when looking for new team members. Throwing an ad out there rarely yields serious applicants.
With three famed barbershops in Central London, Pall Mall Barbers, an institution since 1896, have more experience than most at the challenges and rewards of turning your barbershop into a chain.
Step 3 Where is your second site going to be? As rule of thumb a 45-minute drive between both sites is an ideal distance as it means you can get to both sites easily. However, they are not so close that they are drawing on the same pool of clients or potential staff. • Location • Footfall • Competitors • Parking • Transport Links Don’t let your heart rule your head when it comes to choosing your shop. Location is every bit as important as building.
Step 4 Will your second shop have the same client base type or different? • Students • Large companies situated nearby • Housing type You need to know the new market to organise your marketing and promotional events accordingly.
Step 5 Make sure your finance is set up to deal with a second shop. • Business Plan • Sufficient Funding • Budget for regular meetings with your accountant. They will save you in the long run, don’t be afraid to change if they don’t share your vision. • Use Government Start up Schemes. • Establish product suppliers. Do you need to change? Are your current suppliers moving forward with you?
Penny is recognised as a highly qualified and passionate business coach, lecturer, and presenter for the hair and beauty industry. With over 30 years in the business, Penny has first-hand experience of owning salons and recognises all the issues a salon owner faces today. She is regional head of London for the Association of Business Mentors and is a member of the institute of Enterprise and Entrepreneurs. She also sits on the steering committee for the Hair Council. Penny is a certified NLP Practitioner and has been the recipient of countless industry awards for her work over the years. Please contact www.radianthairconsultancy.com for more information on the consultative services Penny offers to salon owners.
Owner Richard Marshall gave us his advice on how you can make it a success. “From experience, opening a second barber shop is far more difficult than opening a third or fourth. The biggest challenge is thoroughly understanding how your store currently works. Make sure you are thinking about everything from the day to day processes, team members and challenges. Once you have created a blue print for your current business, it should be straightforward to duplicate this into the next business. It’s a cookie cutter approach, but first you need to understand the shape and dynamics of your current cookie cutter! The key with having multiple stores is consistency.” BarberNV Magazine | 57
Business security in an insecure time
M
oving from employee or selfemployed to employer is a daunting step and one that some never make successfully. This is especially true in the grooming sector, where genius behind the chair doesn’t always translate into natural entrepreneurship. It explains why franchising is a popular choice. A franchise offers shared ownership, giving the freedom to be your own boss while not exposing you to the vagaries of full-on business ownership without support, structures, and guidance. But taking on a franchise can be as fraught as getting married and you don’t want to make any rash decisions that you’ll live to regret. • The first essential is to do your research thoroughly so you know what’s available, what character each brand has and whether it chimes with your own vision and values. You want to get the right fit from the start so your prospects are rosy.
Words: Sue Whitehead, CEO of Jacks of London
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• At the same time, investigate what is already available in your chosen location/s. It’s important to identify potential competitors and note how each differs (or not) from the others. Also, franchisees are often given geographical exclusivity so consider brands still to launch in your area.
• Consider which product ranges are offered by the franchise and compare costs. How are these marketed to clients? Some franchises, Jacks of London included, have developed their own highend ranges to help keep costs down while driving reputation and loyalty.
• Once you’ve narrowed your search, start visiting locations within each brand so you get a feel on the ground for how the brands function.
• Once you’ve made contact, ask to speak to other franchisees within the group. Go visit them in person so you can have a good chat and nose around their locations.
• Weigh up how successful the marketing strategy and branding are within each group. Buying into an established franchise brand, like Jacks of London, makes it easier and quicker to build your reputation locally, but only when there is a dynamic plan of activity to support it. We invest heavily in building the brand in every Jacks, from the minute construction begins. • Check out the history. Look for long-term, solid growth with the structures and procedures in place to guarantee support.
• Go through the franchise agreement with a solicitor to identify all fees and costs associated with a franchise, including initial fees, ongoing payments, equipment costs, and marketing spend to make sure there are no hidden fees to surprise you later. • Also, weigh up the expected return on investment with the inherent risks of opening a new business. It’s important to go in with your eyes open.
A re you #TeamSnapchat or #TeamInstagram? The battle for the hearts and minds of clients that rages between neighboring barbers is nothing compared to the cut-throat world of social media, where recently Instagram introduced a copy of Snapchat Stories and Twitter revealed plans to push rollout of its own ‘me-too’ offering originally announced last year.
F
or barbers active on Instagram and Twitter, these short bites of information promise similar instant communication while saving them the hassle of having
to master yet another social platform. “Everyone knows and acknowledges that Snapchat pioneered the Stories functionality, including Kevin Systrom, the CEO of Instagram,” said Valorie Reavis, founder of digital marketing company, Linkup Marketing. “The ‘now it’s here, now it’s gone’ feature of Snapchat helped to grow it’s network to the 150 million daily users it has today. However, Instagram sits at 500 million so leadership at Instagram knows there is a time and place for originality and a time and place for riding coattails to retain market and mind share.” All three offer, or will offer, photo and video slideshows with embellishments and commentary that disappear after 24 hours, enabling users to share an unpolished window into their day. Commentators might have been quick to point out that Instagram Stories isn’t as polished as Snapchat, missing the oh-so popular filters unique to Snapchat, but they are also predicting Instagram will clip Snapchat’s wings due to the size of its following and follow quickly with filters of their own. Avid fans can now offer up their snapshot slide shows without migrating to a new platform, with all the hassle that entails. “Snapchat Stories is great for pushing actionable stories – whether it’s with a link to book now with a particular barber to get 10% off or to buy that day’s featured product. Its grab-it-while-you-can approach allows greater opportunities to monetize social media activity than the more leisurely Facebook or original Instagram,” added Valorie. “Followers know they need to be quick or they’ll miss out. And with all your followers already on Instagram, and with its ability to link to Facebook, one should wonder if the release of copycat Instagram Stories wasn’t genius in its own right.”
BarberNV Magazine | 59
Two years ago, the barbering scene in the Hungarian capital of Budapest was pretty unspectacular. In total contrast to the vibrant city that hosts Sziget, one of the hippest festivals in Europe, and which sees millions of tourists streaming through its elegant streets gazing up at iconic buildings, barbering was a tired and dull affair.
D
usty, dated barbershops run by old men delivering post-Soviet regulation cuts sat uncomfortably within the increasingly cosmopolitan feel of its streets. But then two brothers, homesick and ready for a new challenge, abandoned their adopted home in Melbourne, Australia, and came home. Third-generation hairdressers, they had a plan. “There was nothing for our peers; nothing cool, nothing for the tourists. I was really homesick to come back to Budapest, but also, I knew it was the perfect time. There was a massive gap in the market,” explains the eldest brother, András Gellei. “We came home to fill it.” In partnership with their father, also named András and owner of a long-established hair salon that was originally opened by his father in 1930, the younger András and his brother David launched the first Budapest Barber Shop in July 2014. They chose district 7, the party sector of the city. It is home to Budapest’s ruin bars, built from the debris of a crumbling city, and hostels packed with young people all speaking English in hundreds of different accents ¬– the natural habitat of Hungary’s hipster generation. Consciously cool and decked out in a trad style mixing Hungarian and Australian memorabilia the brothers had collected, it attracted three clients on day one. The next 60 | BarberNV Magazine
day 12 young men sauntered in off the street to investigate. On the third day, a journalist and photographer, tipped off by a clearly satisfied client, dropped by. That evening the story went live on Hungary’s biggest news website. It was clear the young men of Budapest were ready and waiting for someone good to cut their hair. “I hadn’t really given it much thought, but the next day when I arrived to open up there were more than 40 people standing directly outside. I just assumed it was a party of tourists like you often see in Budapest,” says András, who had been an award-winning hairdresser in Australia. “But they were clients. I couldn’t believe it. It’s been like that ever since.” With queues out the door and wait times of hours, the brothers decided to open a second shop. “There was no point in opening it anywhere but in districts 6 or 7, the cooler parts of the city, so we took on an empty property round the corner,” adds András. “It meant when we were bursting at the seams we could send clients round there. Straight away it was also full, so we opened a third and then a fourth, all within the same area. Our challenge is not the clientele; it’s finding the right barbers who are good enough for the brand.” So they launched an academy to train others in the skills they’d learned from their father and perfected in the fashion and sun-drenched world of Australian hairdressing. Recently
HUNGARY FOR SUCCESS
accredited by the government, the academy has the drawback of training up others who might become the competition. Unsurprisingly, since it opened Budapest has witnessed a burgeoning barber sector with new, trendy barber shops popping up, all ex-BBS or BBStrained guys. But none has the guts and glory of the Budapest Barber Shop company. As such, András is relaxed about the competition, seeing it as a positive for the city and the industry. “They will never match the Budapest Barber Company because we have experience outside of the country and we work hard,” he adds. “Really hard.” But it’s not all total slog behind the chair for him and his team. Recently, shutting up shop they headed to the Sziget festival, held every summer in Budapest, where they manned a massive pop-up barber shop, cutting hair while
listening to heavy beats supplied by a diverse crew from Rihanna to Muse to Sia. They are also getting out and about training others in various venues around the world and starting to flex their creative muscle in front of the camera. The past two years have been radical for the Gellei brothers and for their city. The Budapest Barber Shop company has dragged Hungary’s barbering sector out of its post-Soviet malaise. Now the brand is looking beyond. Responding to demand, they have moved on to franchising across Hungary, with two shops open in two other cities and three more under construction. There is even a product line planned. It’s unlikely they’ll stop there. They have no intention of being insular. They want to be part of an international barbering brotherhood. And they will be. So watch out, world – the Hungarians are coming. BarberNV Magazine | 61
Apothecary 87
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Craig Simpson
S h o w c a se
Por tfol io
graeme milne Photography: Stuart Simpson Clothing: illfortune Make-up: Katy Fraser SHABA Apprentice of the Year Winner
James williams
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BLUE TIT SALON Hair: Pont Smith at Blue Tit London Make-up: Lauren Reynolds at laurenreynolds.co.uk Styling: Matt King at mattkingstyling.tumblr.com Photography: Stefan Dokoupil at dokoupilphotography.com
Apothecary 87
BarberNV Magazine | 65
BLUE TIT SALON Hair: Pont Smith at Blue Tit London Make-up: Lauren Reynolds at laurenreynolds.co.uk Styling: Matt King at mattkingstyling.tumblr.com Photography: Stefan Dokoupil at dokoupilphotography.com
Simon Harvey SHABA Male Barber of the Year
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Allan stone Photographer: Renee O’Brien Models: Gary Stephenson, Keith Wade Chris Breheny
BarberNV Magazine | 67
fudge belstaff Session Stylist: Tina Outen For Fudge Professional Photography: Mark Rabadan
MYLES LEWIS 68 | BarberNV Magazine
Sid sottung academy Photography: Dan Lord Make-up: Lauren J. Wolf
fudge belstaff Apothecary 87
Session Stylist: Tina Outen For Fudge Professional Photography: Mark Rabadan
BarberNV Magazine | 69
What You’ll Be Wearing
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en’s hair rarely gets the focus of media attention the way that women’s can. Until a footballer does something unusual, that is. It used to be David Beckham - you can chart the former England captain’s career by his haircuts. But this year it was the turn of the Welsh to upstage the English in every possible way. On the pitch they made it to the European Championship semi-finals, while England lost to lowly Iceland in the last 16, and off the pitch Aaron Ramsey started a trend that really kicked into gear when the world’s best player Lionel Messi joined in. The result is that grey or silver locks are now the in-thing in playgrounds and pubs across the country and for some barbers it’s about time men started to embrace some colour. “It’s massive at the moment, we’re doing bucketloads,” says Newcastle barber Tom Baxter when we ask him if he’s seen an increase in guys looking for colour. “I’ve been doing a lot of violet, lilacs, greys, silver, ashy blonde.” It’s a change also seen by James Herrington, Product Development Manager for Apothecary 87 and owner of The Gentleman’s Retreat barber shop. He says: “Gone are the days of men’s hair being simple, these days men are seeking more high fashioned cuts and now colour. Although styles won’t change too much, we are now adding grey and cool tones.” With a background in men’s hairdressing before
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he become a renowned barber, Tom is delighted that more customers are willing to be bolder, but he wants their barbers to also be bold. “Everyone is doing more or less the same – skin fades, drop fades, choppy texture. Each one is just another version of someone else’s picture. “People need to get in amongst it and get their hands dirty to take the barbering industry further. There’s that hybrid crossover where hairdressers are becoming barbers and barbers are becoming hairdressers, and it’s not just with colouring but cutting as well.” So will barbers take Tom’s advice and go for more daring styles and colour this autumn/winter? Joe Wilkinson, head barber at BStyled, hopes so but isn’t sure how long the fad will last. “Colour in men’s hair is something that I would love to see more of,” he admits. “Grey hair seems to have guys excited, however time doesn’t seem to be on our side. Guys aren’t wanting to sit in the chair for hours having their hair lightened and then toned. That seems to be the only problem with the colour trends taking off for men.” For men not willing to go the whole hog and radically alter their hair colour, so called ‘Guy Lights’ that subtly enhance you natural colour are an option with the legendary Errol Douglas a fan. “The best thing about Guy Lights,” he tells us, “is that it can be adjusted to suit all hair colours. Blondes will suit it best, and for darker hair we simply tone the blonde down for a natural look.” With David Beckham and Tom Hiddleston
wearing the look, they could be a gentle introduction into the world of colour for many men. Moving away from colour and into the styles we can expect to see this autumn/winter, James thinks certain shorter cuts will be making a resurgence. “Cuts we will see more of this season are military crew cuts, super short and keeping a very high, tight, and cropped top. When it comes to styling this, matte products are key. “Another style will be natural and textured, this being quick and easy. The perfect product for these styles are the Apothecary 87 clay pomades.”
Hair by: Pall Mall Barbers Artistic Team Photography: Robin Bharaj
This
Winter
Don’t worry if you have longer hair, plenty of people are predicting you’ll be on point this season, including Daniel Davies of Pall Mall Barbers who says their “clients have been encouraged to grow out their hair.” It will be music to Tom Baxter’s ears to hear Daniel promoting something other than skin fades, and the Pall Mall man says it’s time to “say farewell to short back and sides and embrace a look with less tightness on the sides. “Autumn/winter will be the season for guys to fully embrace their natural curl and texture. It’s a new era of carefree relaxed hair that suits both work and leisure environments.” Leanne Brown of Westrow Artistic Team has also spotted the trend for longer hair on the catwalk with many big names showcasing it at their shows. She says: “Long, loose, and naturally wavy is the standout trend of the new season. Loose flowing locks, worn shoulder length and longer, that were full of natural body and kinks, were spotted all over the shows at the London Collections. To keep this look, as seen at Pringle of Scotland and Topman, achingly on-trend and up-to-date, be sure to go for a uniform texture.” BStyled’s James agrees, saying: “Guys are way more open to having their hair permed these days and again it seems to be down to that easyto-maintain style. For the lucky men that have a natural wave in their hair, it is your job to influence them to embrace what they have and use that natural wave/curl to their advantage.”
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Robert Rix Words f rom the Wise Having now fully recovered and done a good deal of recuperation thanks to a couple of weeks away in the sun, I am raring to go and move forward once more. Robert Rix, SHR SRSB MCH MCB
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F
or openers, I have some great news to share with you. We have again been nominated for Male Grooming Salon of the Year. We won this award last year and have been selected as one of the three finalists for 2016. The final will be at the British Hairdressing Business Awards on the 12th of September in London. All the work is now complete in both the new shop and the academy and we are ready to open for business. As a prelude to this we are staging a presentation at the forthcoming Salon North Exhibition in Manchester on 18th & 19th September where our Artistic Team will be showcasing their talents to the gathered throng around the Fellowship stage. Salon North should prove to be a great day out with lots of top class stylists working on the various presentation stages. The main theme of our Salon North presentation will focus on really old traditional cutting methods that have almost disappeared. There are numerous techniques that are hardly used these days. That is primarily because so many of the highly skilled ‘old time barbers’, that were around when I was doing my apprenticeship, simply gave up the ghost when unisex came in and cutting techniques from the ladies side of the industry started to take over. Add to this the steady decline in college lecturers who have come from the men’s side of the craft. The overall result is that NVQ Level 2 & NVQ Level 3 is primarily being taught by lecturers whose roots lie in either ladies or unisex hairdressing. The big problem with that scenario is that barbering students are being taught quasiladies cutting techniques right from the get go. The consequential skill loss in nothing short of a catastrophe for barbering. So where does the problem lie? And, how do we fix it? The answers might seem obvious. 1 A real shortage of skilled teachers who know and understand these almost lost barbering techniques. 2 Bring the remaining few of these increasingly rare animals into FE colleges and let them deliver the goods. All the above is easier said than done. For a start, the teaching curriculum for NVQ delivery has to follow a prescribed path and format to give the student the award at the end of the course. NVQ is not about turning out good barbers with all the skills they will need to serve them throughout their career; no, it’s about going through a set form of modules and ticking several boxes and doing a bit of practical. A short while ago a college local to me had a staff problem; the lecturer who was delivering the NVQ Level 2 course was absent due to illness. The college had to find a stand in lecturer to fill in for a fixed period of eight
weeks until the normal lecturer was back at work. As I was listed on the reserve panel of lecturers at that college I was asked if I could fill in. I agreed and took over the teaching duties at three days notice. On the first day of my stand-in period I did a quick check from a practical perspective, on what the students knew, or for the most part, didn’t know. I was quite distressed to find that it didn’t amount to much at all. The students in general didn’t have much of a clue about form and shape, texture or hair density, and most importantly barbering technique. Ours is a hands on industry; to my mind the learning should be predominantly practical and not theoretical. Yes, I fully realise that a good barber has to have the underpinning knowledge in all aspects of the job and by all means learn about health & hygiene and salon etiquette but do not do that at the expense of mastering practical skills. So, back to these students and my stand in lectureship. In the eight weeks I was with them I thought ‘throw away the rule book and teach them what barbering is really all about’. I showed them techniques that were from way back; techniques that may not be useful for
I was left with just those who really wanted to learn and become good barbers. Yes, there was still enough time for them to get all their pre-prescribed course work completed and marked and be none the worse for having seen and tried several new, or should I say old, techniques. My justification was that they would never have had the benefit of seeing let alone the chance of mastering and adding these tricks of the trade to their arsenal for their future in the craft. So, I can hear you say, if I’m so dissatisfied with the educational status quo then why don’t I do something about it? And yes, you would be perfectly right to level that criticism against me. But, I am doing something about it. For a couple of years now I have been involved with the Hairdressing Trailblazer Initiative and in that capacity I have been, along with my fellow trailblazer Gary Machin, involved in the rewriting of the craft educational standards. What we on the various Trailblazer groups have been attempting to do is to formulate a framework that will ensure that students emerging from FE colleges are fit for purpose and can then go into the industry and perform at reasonable level of proficiency. So, yes I am putting my money where my mouth is and doing my bit to ensure that this wonderful industry that we’re involved in continues to evolve, but not at the cost of losing all that has gone before. Well, back to the point of all of this, please come along to Salon North and watch our little show. Hopefully you’ll walk away saying, ‘well I’ve never seen that done before.’
Ours is a hands on industry; to my mind the learning should be predominantly practical and not theoretical. creating today’s style, but may well be useful if and when a change in fashion takes place. In hairdressing nothing is fixed for all time; it’s an ever-changing and evolving stage that we work on; so, the one who knows the most tricks of the trade the better he or she will be able to survive the peculiarities of fashion. After my eight week stint was up the class had diminished in size; I had got rid of all the disruptive elements in the class. Consequently
Until next time, keep snipping and clipping Robert Rix SHR SRSB MCH MCB.
BarberNV Magazine | 73
Educator
Joseph Lanzante
Lancashire is fast becoming a beacon of barbering education thanks to Joseph Lanzante.
T
he Naples-born barber’s training academy in Accrington offers a variety of courses suited to everyone from the complete novice to hairdressers wishing to add to their skill set. Proving to be extremely popular since it opened in 2010, Joseph ensures that his students are well prepared to join the industry. “I’d like to think that we as educators deliver the full skillset to becoming a barber,” he tells us. “Unlike other barbering skill centres, we teach how to use scissors as well as clipper work. We also teach theory and practical – spending time on ‘how to behave’ and how to run your own barbering chair/business – so business acumen and personal skills receive a huge focus. Students leave our courses with the knowledge of not only how to practice their new found knowledge, but also how to sell and promote it. The full package.” This is shown in the beginners’ course which leaves the student ready to join a salon as a junior stylist after just eight weeks of training says Joseph. “It is an intensive course which emphasises all levels of barbering. It has a busy programme including health and safety, head shape and face shape analysis, and many cutting techniques such as fade, blend, layer, as well as hot towel wet shave.” In recent years there have been growing calls
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for regulation in the industry, particularly from the Hair Council, who want official courses and certification for hairdressers and barbers, but even without this happening it’s clear that education is becoming more commonplace and of a higher quality. But is it enough? “There is never enough being done,” says Joseph. “However, there has been a marked improvement over the past decade. “It’s better now than it’s ever been – and it’s going from strength to strength. What we have to be careful of however is that we don’t bring a fleet of barbers that can only ‘fade’ and ‘blend’. To be a bona fide barber going forward you need to be able to specialise in cutting, clipping, barbering skills, as well as being in a position to understand perming and colour. The spotlight that has shone on barbering throughout the last decade has been encouraging, but the average male needs evolve as dramatically as women’s hairdressing and it’s important that barbers are kept up to date with trends. Clients today, for example, are requesting more colour blending and partial perming application.” The increase of popularity in barbering has been one of the biggest success stories for the hair industry over the past decade and Joseph believes it’s the ideal time for salon owners and hairdressers to take advantage of it, with his Crossover Course the perfect introduction.
“Cutting men’s hair is very different to how ladies’ hair is cut and this is taught in our Academy. Our focus is not only on clipper work but scissor work too. “On a one-to-one level, hairdressers love to learn and by adding clipper work and men’s hairdressing to their skillset they can double their clientele. As a salon, I strongly advise you to take advantage of the ‘barber boom’ and create a masculine area in the salon where you can offer the full barbering menu with one/two specialist barbers in situ. Clients will love it and you will quickly see a return.” With a shop, The Mens Room, in Clitheroe, and the Joseph Lanzante Training Academy in Accrington, Joseph is well established across Lancashire in both educating and barbering. So which does he prefer? “Education is rewarding because you are teaching someone a very exacting, exciting skill set and you are there with them as they embark on a fruitful career. Some of the most rewarding testimonials have come from students who have joined us with little or no hairdressing knowledge and gone on to become successful barbers. Many of our students have been failures academically and to be encouraged to excel on our course and by instilling the belief and confidence that they can, rewards both myself and my team on a daily basis. “I also find working in my barber shop equally rewarding as your very diverse clientele come to rely on you and that is equally rewarding. It’s also terribly important for me to keep in
contact with my client base – the real world – so I can continuously update our courses to feed demand. “For me it’s hand in hand – educating and working in the barber shop.” Italians have long been vaunted for their personal style and the care they take of their appearance, so perhaps it’s no surprise that a young boy from Naples would bring such attention to detail and passion to the hair industry, and Joseph is still impressed with his countrymen’s style. “Although I left Italy when I was young, whenever I return I am struck by how everyone takes such an interest in their hair. Looking back, they always have done and my fellow Neapolitans are all so exquisitely groomed and still remain ahead of the game when it comes to grooming.” The next step in helping the UK catch up with the Italians is the launch of Joseph’s own range of products. He says they are the “perfect capsule collective for any salon – there are countless products on the market and it’s often confusing. The Joseph Lanzante range was designed to cater for small salons who were looking for a one-stop-shop with no minimum spend. We also sell complementary barbering tools and recently added barbering units to our range.” Joseph certainly lives up to his mantra of encouraging barbers to expand their skill set as he has such a wide variety of business interests within the hair industry, but education continues to be his bread and butter and plans are afoot to
continue his academy’s expansion with training courses across the UK in partnership with other academies and stand-alone centres, so keep your eyes peeled. If you are interested in improving your barbering skill set or learning how to become a barber visit the Joseph Lanzante website on www.josephlanzante.co.uk
Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering
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PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk
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BarberNV Magazine | 75
You get what you pay for in life and while Envy Barbers know they aren’t the cheapest barbering academy around, they guarantee you’ll get value for your investment.
F
rom their flagship store in Covent Garden, one of four in London, Envy Education is quite literally the envy of most other barbering academies in the UK. A natural extension of the Envy Barbers brand which has been run since the millennium by Sheriff Mehmet, a third generation barber with a passion for educating and an avid supporter of encouraging barbers to get state registered and maintain a certain level of quality in the industry. Sheriff’s 25 years in the industry have seen him build Envy from the ground up, and he’s spent the last decade of that honing his skills for education. He says, “I was approached by the Joshua Galvin Academy in London and went on to become one of the first barbering educators, then it escalated from there. Barbering got huge and all of a sudden we went on our own with the training academy, offering NVQ Level 2 and 3, plus all of our own barbering courses; the Envy Clipper Confidence course, Barbering Domination, Elite Barbering, The Art of Shaving.” His personal reputation and the reputation he has built up with Envy means they are the first port of call for many top companies looking for training. “We were approached by L’Oreal and asked if we wanted to do barbering course for them. It was a major success so from there they scheduled us in for their collection book and lots of dates throughout the year. Then the year after we started L’Oreal barbering courses in Canada on tour starting from Vancouver, Toronto through to Montreal – As well as our international education we’ve done barbering education in New York, Glasgow, Belfast, 76 | BarberNV Magazine
Edinburgh, Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds, and London. “We do outsource training as well as in-salon training and at the L’Oreal academies,” Sheriff tells us. “Also we’ve done training for Toni & Guy, Headmasters, Paul Falltrick, HOB Salons, and Charles Worthington.” Sheriff admits the Envy connection with L’Oreal is one of the highlights of his professional career and it’s seen him asked to be a judge for the L’Oreal Colour Trophy in front of 4,000 people at the O2, alongside the likes of Errol Douglas and Charles Worthington “All these big names in hairdressing then old Sheriff Mehmet the barber from London,” he laughs. “Who’s this guy? He must have slept his way to the top!” The boom in barbering has seen a massive influx in hairdressers wanting to sharpen up their male grooming skills, something Sheriff and Envy Education are happy to help with. And it’s a two way street, with barbers benefitting from hairdressing techniques. “We’ve had people recently come over from Brazil, a big group from a company called Hugo Barber Club. They started as a hairdressing salon and wanted to branch out into barbering. They came over and did a ten-day course before going back to Brazil and opening up a barber shop. It’s great. We get people flying in from all over the place; America, Canada, Spain, Turkey, Cyprus, France. Lots of international clients. “What we’re finding as we specialise in it is that hairdressers originally come in just to learn how to a few gents haircuts in their salons, but after they come to us they want more training courses so they can carry on working but train to be a barber.
A c a d emy
Envy Education
“It’s great because they have the knowledge of different techniques, texture, balance, they understand a lot more to do with sectioning and things like that. To be able to use hairdressing techniques in your barbering will gain you more confidence and become more of an open-minded barber.” Unlike many academies, Envy Education don’t try and undercut their opposition financially. Instead they rely on the quality of their education making it a worthwhile cost for their clients. And they offer a unique guarantee that they won’t abandon you until you’re as ready as you can be. Sheriff says: “We ain’t cheap that’s for sure, but we offer a high standard of education basically old school traditional barbering but with a modern day twist. Our quality comes with a lot of generational knowledge. I’ve got over 60 years of barbering history from my family behind me and it makes our courses a real life experience. Our philosophy is an education system based on motivating, inspiring, and breaking barriers to help you achieve perfection. “If someone comes on our course and they’re not completely satisfied, for example if they do the 12-week barber course NVQ and they’re not ready to move on we carry on training them with no extra cost. We want them to be job ready. Our main thing is you walk away happy and get what you need out of it. “We have someone in at the moment who was meant to be on a 12-week course but he’s been here 22 weeks. We don’t have him in full time but we have him come in a day extra a week to sit in on the course and carry on learning so he’s job ready, so he can go into a barber shop. Otherwise it reflects badly on us.
Other academies want your money whether you’ve learned or not but everyone has different skill sets and learns at different paces so you have to be diverse.” This loyalty to their clients is what sets Envy Education apart from so many other academies. Sheriff and his team are in it for the love of the profession and are keen to see as many people succeed in the industry as possible which is why they offer advice to anyone who asks them. And if it isn’t the right fit for them then Sheriff is willing to turn money away. “I had a guy come down the other day,” he tells us. “Only 18, was studying business but said he wanted to be a barber. I told him it would cost £5,950 and he was happy to pay it. So I sat him down and spoke with him about his life, why he wanted to leave business and become a barber - he thought barbers earned £800 a week! “I stopped him there and told him you’re not going to be earning that for at least 10 years and that if that’s why he wants to get into barbering then it’s not right for him to come onto our course. Instead I got him in the shop for a week to see if he actually liked it but at the end of the week he decided that he didn’t want to do it. We could have easily taken his money but we don’t work like that.” It’s encouraging to see educators like Sheriff taking their responsibilities so seriously and that’s why the Envy brand is fast becoming one of the most talked about in the industry. Visit www.envybarbers.co.uk to find out more about Sheriff and his team and take the next step in your barbering journey. BarberNV Magazine | 77
Day after day, I’d watch Bambino, Anthony & Michael etch away the stubble of Brooklyn’s hirsute gents. My intrigue was only to be matched by bemusement. Why were these chaps keen to lose the facial fur I was so eager to grow but my tender age would not yet allow?
F
or me, as I’m sure it is for many others, wet shaving is synonymous with barbering. The striking transformation these follicle swordsmen could grant a man with a few precision strokes of their blade captivated me. After three years of intense observation, amid some top quality floor sweeping, it slowly dawned on me that soon I’d be performing my first shave. Each day I’d give Bambino the same answer, “Not today, I don’t think I’m quite ready.” His diligence would indicate he was missing, or more likely ignoring, the “or nor will I be in the near future” undertones in my voice. After a couple of weeks, I unwillingly succumbed to my mentor’s sheer persistence/ borderline nagging. A brave soul had kindly volunteered to be shaved by a reluctant seventeen year old first timer. I say volunteered, he was more than likely also strong armed into this dynamic by Bambino. His name unfortunately escapes me but I
78 | BarberNV Magazine
can picture him now, and for that matter, smell him. A distinct aroma of unfiltered Lucky Strike cigarettes exuded from his portly figure. Before you ask, my sense of smell isn’t so well attuned that it can distinguish brands; he tossed the pack on the counter as he sat. He probably smoked one outside as he tied a metaphorical handkerchief over his eyes before entering the shop. A little bay rum aftershave quickly diffused the odour situation and it was time proceedings to begin. After the hot towel, I applied the Proraso shaving cream in circular motion like I’d seen thousands of times before. The pre-shave ritual, if anything, only added to the anticipation. One would imagine the only thing more distressing than holding a blade near a gent’s throat with trembling hands is being said gent. After a giant and audible gulp, probably from all three of us, I made the first stroke, followed
by the second. “Thirty degree angle”, “with the grain”, “that’s it”, Bambino narrated and carefully guided me through. It was over before I knew it. I’d practice on anybody that would allow it, or had been similarly coerced into it like my first ‘client’, over the next few weeks. My confidence began to build with each shave. Fourteen shaves in and I thought I was practically a veteran of the shave game. But number fifteen was about to cruelly snatch that confidence from me. Unlucky number fifteen was the first time I had cut somebody. It was only slightly more than a nick but in my eyes I’d mutilated this poor man. “That’s it”, I thought. “I’ve reserved my place in the annals of barbering history next to that lad from Fleet Street.” I’d only been shaving a fortnight and I’d already dragged the industry back to its grisly origins, of which the white and crimson helix adorning the shop served as a constant reminder. My confidence was completely shattered and I wanted to give up. Bambino took me aside and calmed me down, which in itself was not an easy task. In true Italian style, he told me to
go home, eat pasta, have a glass of wine and just forget about it. Somehow, probably due to starch-induced food coma, I managed to relax that evening. I went into the shop the next day and did my best shave to date. Patience is always cited as a key skill a teacher needs. I think that patience stems from a more important skill: the ability to relate with how students are feeling. If a student is particularly nervous or feels they aren’t progressing I’ll sometimes tell them that story. A tired idiom perhaps, but we all know that practice does indeed make perfect. However, that doesn’t always give you the confidence to do something or quell feelings of frustration. I think, or at least I hope, that by sharing my own experiences of learning it somewhat reinforces that idea. More than anything, I’m just thankful that nobody has taken the story too literally. If you can achieve shaving proficiency without cutting somebody first then that’s exactly what I’d recommend.
I’d practice on anybody that would allow it, or had been similarly coerced into it like my first ‘client’, over the next few weeks. My confidence began to build with each shave.
Begin or further your career in barbering at the academy of international educator Sid Sottung. ONLINE
PHONE
FB & INSTA
sidsottungacademy.com
0115 837 2401
/sidsottungacademy
265 Mansfield Road | Nottingham |NG1 3FT BarberNV Magazine | 79
Step-by-step guide
Step 1 Prior to the shaving service, please provide an accurate consultation and evaluate the skin and bone structure.
Step 5 Apply your shaving cream with a shaving brush.
Step 9 Proceed upwards in the bottom neck area.
Something different from Sid Sottung Academy this issue, as they show you how to execute the perfect hot towel shave, in collaboration with Lock Stock & Barrel. 80 | BarberNV Magazine
Step 13 Apply a suitable face mask to purify the skin.
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Apply a liberal amount of LSB shaving oil.
Apply a hot towel.
Apply a facial scrub with circular motions.
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Proceed with the first stroke on the cheek area with the grain towards the jaw area.
Proceed to the opposite side with a backhand technique.
Move across the chin area.
Step 10
Step 11
Step 12
Proceed to the moustache area.
Proceed to the underneath the lip area.
Proceed to the final area downwards underneath the jaw. After completion of the first pass, please go against the grain on the second pass.
Step 14
Step 15
Step 16
Apply a toner with a cotton pad to restore the pH balance of the skin.
Apply a facial moisturiser with hand massage movements to provide adequate moisture and to relax the client.
Apply aftershave to kill any bacteria and talcum powder to decrease any unnecessary shine.
BarberNV Magazine | 81
Sept/Oct 2016 Training Dates Date
Duration Course
Company/School
Location
Cost
Contact
5th Sept
6 Days
Barber & Wet Shave
Hair For Men Academy
London
£1,095.00
0800 644 6601
5th Sept
1 Day
Specialist: The Shave
WAHL Academy
Kent
£200.00
01227 744323
6th Sept
8 Weeks
8 Week Beginner Course
Joseph Lanzante Training
Accrington
£2,995.00
01254 427 575
12th Sept
3 Days
Savills Master Barber Course Savills Barber Academy
Sheffield
£475.00
0114 276 1011
12th Sept
9 Weeks
Diploma in Barbering
London School of Barbering
London
£3,780.00
0207 404 0998
12th Sept
1 Day
One Day Shaving Course
Joseph Lanzante Training
Accrington
£195.00
01254 427 575
12th Sept
3 Weeks
Masters in Barbering L3
London School of Barbering
London
£1,800.00
0207 404 0998
12th Sept
1 Week
Combo Shaving
London School of Barbering
London
£900.00
0207 404 0998
18th Sept
1 Day
Intense Clipper Traing Course
Sams Barber Shop
Belfast
£100.00
028 9035 1343
19th Sept
5 Days
Fast Track Barber & Wet Shave Hair For Men Academy
Surrey
£1,095.00
0800 644 6601
19th Sept
1 Year
NVQ Barbering
Mike Taylor Education
Poole
£2,000.00
079693 48675
19th Sept
2 Weeks
Cutting & Fading Course
London School of Barbering
London
£1,500.00
0207 404 0998
19th Sept
2 Days
Creative Advanced Gents
WAHL Academy
Kent
£300.00
01227 744323
21st Sept
1 Day
Specialist: The Artist
WAHL Academy
Kent
£200.00
01227 744323
25th Sept
1 Day
Shaving Specialist Course
Savills Barber Academy
Sheffield
£200.00
0114 276 1011
26th Sept
6 Days
Fast Track Barber & Wet Shave Hair For Men Academy
London
£1,095.00
0800 655 6601
26th Sept
1 Day
Profit Profile Seminar
The Foss Academy
Mayfair
POA
0203 770 8643
26th Sept
2 Days
Clipper Confidence Course
Savills Barber Academy
Sheffield
£200.00
0114 276 1011
26th Sept
2 Weeks
Combo Shaving
London School of Barbering
London
£1,500.00
0207 404 0998
82 | BarberNV Magazine
Sept/Oct 2016 Training Dates Date
Duration Course
Company/School
Location
Cost
Contact
26th Sept
10 Weeks
NVQ Level 2 Barbering
Mike Taylor Education
Poole
POA
079693 48675
26th Sept
9 Weeks
NVQ Level 2 Barbering Course Gents of London
Cardiff
£3,899.00
0207 8370171
3rd Oct
3 Weeks
Masters in Barbering L3
London School of Barbering
London
£1,800.00
0207 404 0998
3rd Oct
1 Day
Angelo Seminara Workshop
Davines Academy
London
£350.00
020 3301 5449
3rd Oct
6 Days
Fast Track Barber & Wet Shave Hair For Men Academy
Surrey
£1,095.00
0800 644 6601
3rd Oct
9 Weeks
Diploma in Barbering
London School of Barbering
London
£3,780.00
0207 404 0998
5th Oct
1 Year
NVQ Level 3 Barbering
Mike Taylor Education
Poole
£2,700.00
079693 48675
10th Oct
1 Day
One Day Shaving Course
Joseph Lanzante Training
Accrington
£195.00
01254 427 575
10th Oct
3 Days
Savills Master Barber Course Savills Barber Academy
Sheffield
£475.00
0114 276 1011
10th Oct
6 Days
Fast Track Barber & Wet Shave Hair For Men Academy
London
£1,095.00
0800 644 6601
11th Oct
9 Weeks
NVQ Level 2 Barbering Course Gents of London
London
£3,899.00
0207 8370171
17th Oct
6 Days
Fast Track Barber & Wet Shave Hair For Men Academy
Surrey
£1,095.00
0800 644 6601
20th Oct
2 Days
Wet Shaving Course
London School of Barbering
London
£550.00
0207 404 0998
24th Oct
9 Weeks
Diploma in Barbering
London School of Barbering
London
£3,780.00
0207 404 0998
24th Oct
1 Day
Introduction to Mask Colour Davines Academy
London
£75.00
020 3301 5449
24th Oct
6 Days
Fast Track Barber & Wet Shave Hair For Men Academy
London
£1,095.00
0800 644 6601
24th Oct
2 Days
Wet Shaving Course
London
£550.00
0207 404 0998
25th Oct
1 Day
Introduction to A New Colour Davines Academy
London
£75.00
020 3301 5449
Call
1 Day
Clipper Cutting Course
Accrington
£195.00
01254 427 575
London School of Barbering
Joseph Lanzante Training
*Dates and prices are correct at time of going to print and are subject to change.
BarberNV Magazine | 83
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