BarberNV Issue 17 by Gallus Media

BarberNV Issue 17

BarberSociety Live Eighty8

SU M M ER 2 0 1 8

BARBER

CONTENTS

I S S U E 17 News

Fellowship

Best of British

Britain’s Best Shave

Products

Eighty8

Outline Creative Team

Barber Society Live

Nero Barbershop

Ronald de Bont

Van de Hare

Amsterdam Barbers

Alan Findlay

Chris Foster

Syndey Sollod

Dr Nestor

Dr Nick

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Celebrity Beards

Entering Competitions

The Mob Club

Jade Sandever

Editor’s Comment BarberSociety Live is one of those rare events that despite growing to more than twice its original size has managed to retain its intimacy and emotion. This year’s event marked its third year of turning the

72-year old father at their Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers shop.

Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam into a barbering paradise where

Those family value seem to still be strong throughout Holland, with

everyone from apprentices to industry vets from all over the world

Keune ambassador Ronald de Bont cutting on stage at BSL with his

came together to talk trade and embrace the knowledge. It’s so laid

son Sjors.

back you can easily spend the weekend chilling with a beer on the

As always we have all the latest news and plenty of features from

terrace talking to your fellow barbers and still feel like it was time

closer to home including the launch of Joe Sloan and Joey Power’s

well spent. Of course you’d have been missing out on the likes of

new barbershop Eighty8.

Mikey Henger, Leah Hayden Cassidy, and the BOMB Squad on stage so we can’t fully recommend that!

On a personal note it’s my last issue as editor of BarberNV. It’s been a pleasure to meet and speak with so many of you up and down

Naturally we had to focus on the Netherlands as a whole for this

the country over the past two years and I’m sure the magazine will

edition, with BarberSociety Live taking centre stage. Founder Marc

continue to promote barbering talent from around the world in the

Van de Hare is a third generation barber who still works alongside his

future.

Enjoy! 2 | BarberNV Magazine

SHOWCASE

Industrial Soul Hair: Edward Coleman & Jonathan Watters Styling: Babylliss Pro Photography: Miguel Gutierrez Camera Assistant: Kevin Luchmun Products: Nomad Barber

Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Executive Megan Mowles | Editorial Support Matthew McLaughlin Front Cover Hair by: Vicenç Moretó @ Vicenç Moretó Barber Shop Photographer: Cayetano González Stylist: Julia Blamey MUA: María Delokas Production Manager: Rita Surgucheva Production Assistant: Dominik Hartl Making Of: Ireva Drones Ilustrations: Mar Vilella Guinart Models: Kevin Massol (Blare Models); Óscar Barriga (Blare Models); Álvaro Silveira (Elite Barcelona); Alfonso Troyano (Berta Models); Aris Dougas. Costume: Hidden Status Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Alan Findlay | Thanks Fellowship for British Hairdressing, The Best of British Barbering and Hairdressing, The Bluebeards Revenge, Barber UK, Eighty 8, Outline Creative Team, Fine Fettle, Jacks of London, CocoRoco PR, Matt Vurley, Jade Sandever, Cas Sokkas, Redmane Media, Sydney Sollod, BarberSociety Live, Nero Barbershop, Ronald de Bont, Marc Van de Hare, Alan Findlay, Chris Foster, Dr Nick, Dr Nestor Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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We Can Be Heroes Hair & Make-up: Dmitri Papas Photographer: Steven Chee

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS Denman launches global creative British professional tool manufacturer Denmark has announced the launch of the Denman Global Collective. Led by Global Creative Director Paul Stafford, the collective is an international team of Denman brand ambassadors unified by their shared values. The Denman Global Collective joins together international hairdressing and barbering creatives to share their skills to worldwide audiences. This platform will provide members with the opportunity to showcase the diverse potential of Denman tools on different hair types and hairstyles from around the world. The Global Collective will be used to develop and hone Denman products ensuring they continue to meet the demands of hair professionals. Managing Director at Denman International, Phillip Steele, said: “Over the years we have built strong relationships with hairdressers in many countries, and I’m pleased to say they have all embraced the Global Collective and

are already sharing their work and ideas. “For us to be able to showcase the work of top Indian, French, Taiwanese and Bulgarian hairdressers – and all the others – to an international audience is amazing. Plus the inspiration and feedback we get in return is truly invaluable.” Denman are pleased to announce the following stylists will be joining Paul Stafford as members of the Global Collective: Brandon Messinger (UK), Renee Melek (India), Libor Sula (Czech Rep),

The seminars will be hosted at Harley-Davidson dealerships across the country, where some of the industries finest barbers will showcase their techniques up-close and personal. All of the money raised from the events will go to Alder Hey Children’s Charity. Each seminar is priced at £30 or £150 for the full trip. BarbersRide stops at: August 5 – CHESTERFIELD – Mykke Greaves (King Koby) August 6 – NEWMARKET – Christian Wiles (Christian Wiles Hairdressing) and Jen Winter (Phoney Pony Barbers)

Eric Leturgie (France). Denman will be announcing more members as the Global Collective continues to grow.

August 8 – BRIDGWATER – Myles Lewis (Guerilla Barbering Team)

For more information on the Denman Global Collective, the members and their work please visit our website www.denmanbrush.com/ambassadors/

We are delighted to announce the arrival of a new barbering exhibition that is set to make every other event look measly in comparison! Festival Barber is taking place in a castle (yes, a castle) in Italy (yes, Italy) and has a line-up to match its extravagant surroudings. As the official media partner we’ll be there to keep you informed every step of the way through social media on the day - and with the likes of Alan Beak, Leah Hayden Cassidy, Josh Lamonaca, and Julius Caesar all on stage, it’s set to be a truly stunning day. Kevin Luchmun is the host on the day as well, so personally we think you need to be their first hand to witness it on 9th of September at Castello Di Santa Severa just outside Rome.

August 7 – BRIGHTON – Simon Smithurst (Ghost Barbers)

August 9 – CHESTER – Colin Petrie (Hard Grind) and Wes Omelio Jones (The Heartbreak Barber) August 8 – BRIDGWATER – Myles Lewis (Guerilla Barbering Team) August 9 – CHESTER – Colin Petrie (Hard Grind) and Wes Omelio Jones (The Heartbreak Barber)

Chris foster UK Male grooming icon, Chris Foster, brought his skills to Mauritius to create the island’s first ever male grooming emporium. Celebrity stylist Sasha Mosafeer visited Chris for a treatment at The Refinery in Mayfair and having loved the concept he asked Chris to take it to his salons, Maison Sasha on the Indian Ocean island. Seeing the meteoric growth of male grooming, Sasha saw a gap in the market on Mauritius, creating the very first male grooming concept on the island. The idea was so revolutionary that every local media outlet covered the brand launch at the flagship store in Curepipe. Of the launch, Sasha said: “From the bottom of my heart I want to thank Chris for the incredible training for my team. “We started another service yesterday, we’ve already had ten luxury shave clients! “For me education always comes first, and this proves how important it is.” Chris headed over to this beautiful island

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Born from a joint love for barbering and biking, the annual event boasts exclusive barbering seminars.

Bertram Kainzner (Austria), Fabrizio & Luigi Pecoraro (Italy), Alexandru Stativa (Romania), Guy Haircut (France), Stevo Pavlovic (Slovenia) Sauro Sartorel (Italy), Lourd Ramos (Philippines) and

Italian barber festival

Tickets are just 129 Euros and you can get them by emailing contact@salonnv.co.uk

Barbersride

nation and took his elite training to the team from the three Maison Sasha salons. He created a bespoke training programme for the male grooming services, everything from skincare, routine and aftercare, through to creating Maison Sasha’s signature treatments. Chris Foster, said: “It was a wonderful opportunity to provide this amazing training service by the Foss Academy on the paradise island of Mauritius. “My time there is a testament to the fact that elite male grooming is going from strength to strength globally.”

I N D U S T R Y NEWS

barbathon raises £3,000 CENTRO BETA Spanish stylist Ziortza Zarauza has won Best Avantgarde Collection in the ABS Global Image Awards in Chicago. Ziortza was crowned the winner for her GODDESS OF WAR collection at the America’s Beauty trade show finals held in April. Her father and Centro Beta cofounder, Gonzalo Zarauza took gold in the same category in 2017 and was a finalist again this year. The father and daughter completion was a close-call but Ziortza’s GODDESS OF WAR collection shined the brightest to take the statuette home.

Ziortza shared some emotional words just moments after collecting the award, she said: “There are no limits and everything can be overcome.” She also described her “immense joy” to have been awarded for her work in the ABS Global Image Awards, both for her and the entire Centro Beta team. The GODDESS OF WAR collection is a tribute to women fighting for a more egalitarian world and has been published internationally to critical acclaim. Ziortza is currently crowned as the Spanish Hairdresser of the Year.

Matakki secure a hattrick of awards Matakki had a fantastic Barber UK as they picked up three awards relating to their products and their customer service. The Hull based scissor company took home accolades for Best Customer Service, Best Use of Social Media, and Best Tools, Equipment, or Furniture Supplier, capping an excellent day for the team. Matakki Director, James Curd, said: “It has always been imperative to me that, as a company, Matakki values our clients and prides itself on being reliable, trustworthy, and customer-focused.” Hard Grind are just one of the many barbering outfits associated with Matakki and more are sure to be using them after these wins. For more information on Matakki visit www.matakki.com

Celebrity and multi-award winning barber, Tom Baxter held a hair cutting marathon raising £3000 for the Tiny Lives Trust children’s charity. The “Baxter Barberthon” started on Sunday April 29 at 8am and finished 24 hours later. Tom said: “Time is the most precious thing we have and dedicating 24 hours exclusively to raise money for a good cause it’s fantastic!” Professional hair range OSMO was a partner in the event and provided attendees with product. OSMO marketing executive, Sinead McLaughlin said: “We didn’t hesitate to help and knowing that with a small gesture, you can help improve many lives.” Tom has also been named as a brand ambassador for OSMO. This comes after collaborations at the Great British Barber Bash, where Tom demonstrated how OSMO products helped him refine his technique. OSMO recognised a reflection of their brand values seeing Tom’s skill. Tom said: “I am looking forward to seeing what we’ll achieve together in terms of cutting colour and style.”

leah joins andis As one of the planet’s leading manufacturers of professional barber and stylist tools, Andis recognises the need for world-class education. To meet this need Andis has named renowned barber, Leah Hayden Cassidy as the latest addition to their global education team. Touted as one of Ireland’s most successful barbers, Leah fuses fashion into her creative editorial work, showcasing her ability with exciting collaborative projects. Working in tandem with fashion magazines, photographers and artists Leah creates looks which fuse fashion with the modern barber industry. Leah has continued to establish her position in the industry, growing an international platform that has captured the imagination of barbers. A rising talent in the barbering community, Leah began her career amidst the boom in the industry, taking influence from US barbering and hairdressing scenes.

Specialising in men’s hair, she merges techniques from every aspect of barbering, inspired by her travels through different countries and cultures. Taking place on stages across Europe, Leah will be based in Germany working alongside some of the top barbers of our generation to fly the Andis flag. Andis Education Manager, Jessica Zeinstra says: “We have been courting Leah for a while now and feel that her knowledge, passion and skill will create an engaging education platform for barbers to follow. “Her global reputation and creative talent will be a strong asset to the Andis education team.”

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The Fellowship heads out on tour with

Hair & Vision The Fellowship for British Hairdressing continues to expand its national reach, with events in Glasgow and London this spring.

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The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has recently given its popular masterclass format a makeover, replacing it with Hair & Vision. While still demonstrating the work of members on stage, the night now backs up their hairdressing mastery with the inspirations, influences, and ideas behind their looks – providing a more holistic view of the overall hair look. The new format also includes the Live Lounge; an informal interview with a hair icon, live on stage.

In Scotland, the event took place at Drygate Brewery in Glasgow’s East End. resenting on the night were an all-star Scottish lineup of Tracey Devine Smith for Affinage, Jamie McDonald from Cheynes, Paul Paterson from Ishi, Sarah Wilson from Medusa, Austen Thomson from Austen Thomson Hair, and reigning Scottish Hairdressers of the Year, Dylan Brittain and Suzie McGill from Rainbow Room International.

Hair & Vision had its debut at Sway Bar in London, where the lineup of artists on stage was seriously impressive. Representing the diversity of the Fellowship were: Akin Konizi from HOB Salons, Alan Findlay from Rebel Rebel, Marcus Giamattei from Marc Antoni, Anne Veck, Johnny Shanahan from Barber Barber, Jordanna Cobella from Cobella, Junior Green from Junior Green, Luke Benson from Luke Benson Hair, Paul Jamieson from Mahogany, Sam Burnett & Jamie Benny from Hare & Bone, Sean Dawson from Electric, Skyler McDonald from Sean Hanna and Tina Farey from RUSH.

The evening also included special guests in the form of the current F.A.M.E. Team, who were interviewed on stage about their experiences so far and their recent Jean-Michel Basquiat inspired collection. The team showed the research and creative process which went into their shoot, which featured an androgynous long-haired men’s look as well as a spiked Afro style, inspired by the artist’s own definitive look.

Guest of honour on the night was the multi award-winning Angelo Seminara, who shared the stories of his early years at Trevor Sorbie and his journey from small-town rural Italy to British Hairdresser of the Year. “I grew up in a small town, where everyone knew each other,” he said. “I didn’t really see a future there so, to explore my craft, I came to London. The UK has always been at the forefront of hairdressing, thanks to the likes of Vidal Sassoon and Raymond Bessone.”

“It was fantastic to be back in Scotland celebrating both the heritage and emerging talent within Scottish hairdressing,” says Fellowship President, Karine Jackson. “We were thrilled at the fantastic turnout, which is a great reflection on the calibre of the hairdressers on stage. I’d like to thank them all for their hard work – and to everyone who came out on the night to champion the local scene.” Instagram - @fellowshiphair Facebook - facebook.com/fellowshiphair

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ANG photography by Angelika Gibula www.angphotography.co.uk

The Best of British take to The Caves On Sunday March 25th, the Best of British Barbering and Hairdressing came together at The Caves in Edinburgh for a day of entertainment and education. Having battled past the arctic conditions that caused a cancellation of the original date. Fortunately, the stylists and audience put that behind them to make the most of the rescheduled event, with Davie Walker hosting.

While it was billed as a mix of both barbers and hairdressers, it was the barbers who took centre stage, outnumbering the hairdressers four to one, in yet another sign that the male grooming industry is fast catching up with its more illustrious female counterpart. The day opened with showcases from Laura Howlett of Ruffians, James Johnstone of Hard Grind, and Scott Williams of Boom Barbers. Three different styles from three well-known barbering houses, it was the perfect start to the day. Next it was the turn of two of Ghost Barbershop’s finest, Simon Smithurst and Joe Venant faded in some top on-trend while Mr Blonde’s Grant Carr and Sam Massey, both recent winners of Barber of the Year competitions in Scotland, went for a slick, coloured ladies haircut and longer style respectively. The Rebel Art Team warmed up for their trip to BarberSociety Live in Amsterdam with another ground-breaking presentation of their talents, before the barbering section of the day was rounded off by three barbers all well-known to BarberNV readers. Jay Kizito Byrne graced the front cover of issue 11 after winning the BBA Hall of Fame competition, and he was joined on stage by Corneliu Crihan who featured in last month’s issue, as well as our good friend and regular contributor James Williams, BBA Barber of the Year. With a mix of barbers showing off all of their creativity throughout the day 10 | BarberNV Magazine

and with some incredibly audacious styles that took all of their skill and talent, it was an opportunity to get really up close and personal with the on stage stylists. Questions were encouraged and the barbers were happy to share their knowledge. Live band Drums & Roses played the day out with a mix of classic and contemporary hits played in their inimitable style to the appreciation of the sell out crowd.

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07717 278872 BarberNV Magazine | 11

//Joe Ribera

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Hair: Joe Ribera Photographer: Simon Everiss Makeup: Leticia Bishop

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Britain’s Best Shaver

A barber from Kent is celebrating after being crowned the very best wet shaving barber in Britain. Enver Yesilbulut, owner of Kings Barbers Male Grooming in Deal, won the coveted Britain’s Best Shave 2018 competition at the Barber UK show in Birmingham on Sunday May 20th. He beat off razor sharp competition from seven other finalists at the national final of the annual shave off, run in partnership between industry watchdogs British Barbers’ Association and The Bluebeards Revenge male grooming brand. Enver impressed the judges on a number of criteria, including shave preparation, razor technique, post-shave routine, health and safety, and overall efficiency. His prize was a belt to display in his shop as well as £500 worth of products from The Bluebeards Revenge. It is the second time Enver has made the final round of the competition and it is his second title after securing Britain’s Best Barber, for hair cutting, in 2016. He said: “It feels amazing. The feeling still hasn’t sunk in. I really wanted to win but I told myself not to get nervous. I knew if I did that it would be game over. It’s the first time that one barber has won two belts in the competition. “This is my passion. I have to thank all my clients who allow me to do what I love every day. Without their continuous support it wouldn’t be possible.” The winning moment was all the more special for the dad-of-two because his

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daughters, Hira, four, and one-year-old Eda, plus wife, Gulfer, were there to watch him. He said: “When I got to the final round I asked if I could bring my daughters in to watch as you had to be 15 to come into the exhibition space. It felt good to have them there.” The final of the competition took place inside the legendary boxing ring and attracted hundreds of spectators throughout the day. Nick Gibbens, spokesperson for The Bluebeards Revenge, said: “Enver is a very deserving winner and we hope his success will inspire barbers from all over the UK to enter the competition next year. He performed fantastically well on the day and we look forward to working with him to promote British barbering to a global audience.” Erik Lander, Steering Group Chairman of the British Barbers’ Association, added: “A truly deserving champion, to get in the ring and be judged by your peers and industry experts takes nerves and Enver showed his resolve, skill and determination to be crowned Best Wet Shaving Barber in Britain. “He is an inspiration to others to enter the competitions and if at first you don’t succeed, to try again, we are continually learning and I think this shows Enver’s determination to be the best at what he does. Massive congratulations and well done.”

Britain's Best Shave 2018 National Final: Full Results Quarter finals

Allan Stone (North East) beat Jamie Crawford (Midlands) Yucel Olmezkaya (East Anglia) beat Kevin Voyse (Yorkshire) Enver Yeshilbulut (London & South East) beat Elvis Gjokaj (defending champion) Sophie Collins (Wales) beat Jack Jenkins (South West)

Semi finals

Allan Stone beat Yucel Olmezkaya Enver Yeshilbulut beat Sophie Collins

Final

Enver Yeshilbulut beat Allan Stone

and the winner is...Enver Yeshilbulut!

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PRODUCTENV Y

Editor’s Choice

E D I TOR ’ S C O M M E NT We don’t need to tell you that barbering is a labour intensive job. You’re on your feet for upwards of eight hours a day, constantly moving just about every muscle in your body. So when you finish, we recommend a relaxing bath with Braw Beard Bath Salts to help ease the tension and get you feeling your best.

Barbicide Filecide Disinfectant Spray

Andis – Slimline Pro Li Cordless Trimmer

Stop Cross infection in your salon. Whilst there is BARBICIDE for all your metal and plastic disinfection needs, FILECIDE is the new professional disinfectant formulated specifically for non-metal nail files, buffers and make-up brushes. It comes in a handy 200ml spray bottle with an attractive petal scent. Just spray and leave to air dry.

The new Slimline Pro Li Cordless Trimmer from Andis creates the sharpest lines with perfect definition every cut. The lightweight and ergonomically contoured trimmer gives total control, allowing barbers and stylists to refine every style. Whilst its longer battery life ensures uninterrupted performance for up to two hours! The trimmer neatly stows away in a recharging unit, easily accessible during service.

£5.50 capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

Andis.com

Bluebeard’s Revenge – Hair Gel Leaving soggy styles firmly in the past, Bluebeard’s Revenge has brought out a ultimate-purpose hair gel. Designed to create both rock-solid spikes and intensely textured styles. A portion of every tub sold goes to the Lions Barber Collection, an organisation of industry leaders committed to raising awareness for the prevention of male suicide. £9.99 bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

Braw Beard – Recovery Bath Salts A beard oil company bringing out a range of bath salts? Braw Beard is a brand that should never be accused of following the ebb and flow of the typical. Before Braw Beard’s inception, creator John Jackson was making muscle soak bath salts to aid in his own recovery after training and racing. Touted by professional athletes, the Recovery Bath Salts are designed to soothe aches and muscle tightness. The ideal rest and recovery formulae is made in Scotland from 100% natural materials. brawbeardoils.com

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PRODUCTENVY

Fudge Professional – Salt Spray and Mineral Paste Simply spray in Fudge Professional’s new Fudge Salt Spray or the ideal beach head look. This salt enhanced texturising spray will leave hair with plenty of body, raw texture and a crisp finishing, all while protecting hair against harmful UV damage. Anti-humidity ingredients maximise flexibility and hold, whilst pro-vitamin B strengthens and conditions the hair. The new Mineral Paste from Fudge lets you achieve that beach hair aesthetic all year round, infused with ocean salts and Japanese kelp, adding texture, volume and shine for an intense rough and rugged look. Fudge’s UVisiShield technology strengthens and protects hair from damage and dryness, whilst a blend of shame butters and buckthorn oil moisturise and nourishes. fudgeprofessional.com

Skull and Bone Grooming Company Building a male grooming product range utilitising all natural ingredients plundered from both land and sea. Scottish grooming brand Skull and Bone make products with a true sense of luxury, for men embarking on a voyage of self-care. With products designed for both skin and hair care all packaged with a distinctly nautical flavour captured by the brand’s name. skullandboneuk.com

Snip A Man Beard Balm – Cashmere Wood The coconut and shea oil based Cashmere Wood nourishes your beard with every application. With natural ingredients the beard balm is formulated to control fly-away hairs and give your beard light hold. snipaman.de

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PRODUCTENV Y

Grooming

Beardition Soft + Sweet Beard Oil Beardition’s new, all natural bamboo and tropically imbued beard oil brings anti-frizz magic to the world of premium male facial hair grooming. Combining an array of essential plant oils, the Soft + Sweet beard oil’s coconut base aids in keeping any fellas facial follicles moisturised and healthy. Soft + Sweet is ideal for postshower use and for easing out any new beard itchiness. $16.00 beardition.com

Captain Fawcett – Triumphant Moustache Wax The triumphant new upper-lip pomade from Captain Fawcett, has been formulated with the idea of the travelling gent in mind. Created in collaboration with none-other than the finest moustachioed man in British comedy, Rufus Hound. The earthy sandalwood and spring scented wax has notes of bergamot, clove and ylang to imbue your moustache with a dignified aroma. Triumphant is designed to ensure you always maintain your stiff upper-lip. captainfawcett.com

London Beard Company – Orchard Haze Beard Oil

Mr Hawke Pomade Championing the future of Australian manufacturing Mr Hawke is a malleable, non-plasticised pomade born from one man’s frustration in how he saw modern men’s grooming products. Mr Hawke uses ingredients indigenous to Oz, making the pomade a truly bespoke product. Stimulating re-growth and cleanses the hair, while still allowing for restyling throughout the day, Mr Hawke is unique in it’s versatility. Packaged in a sleek, sophisticated utility box , Mr Hawke truly embodies the aesthetics of modern men’s grooming. $44 mrhawke.com

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Handcrafted using the finest natural ingredients to help soften beard hair and simultaneouslymoisturise the skin. The easily absorbable with a nongreasy texture, suitable for both short and longer beards. The fragrant oil has an undeniably sweet and smooth tropical hit that makes Orchard Haze the perfect summer beard oil. londonbeardcompany.com

PRODUCTENV Y

Furniture & Equipment

WetBrush - Men’s Detangler

Premier Capone Barber Chair

WetBrush’s new easy-use Men’s Detangler can be used to stimulate the scalp and beard forfuller, stronger and healthier hair. Incorporating the patented IntelliFlex® bristles, the brush massages the scalp and hair follicles. What’s more, the bristles bend and flex which easily removes knots and tangled hair, ultimately reducing the risk of damaged hair. Available in both brown and black with a handle designed for maximum comfort and suitable for all hair types.

The design of the Capone Barber chair is striking enough to make a statement in any barber shop. Solid construction, ornate chrome detail gives the chair an air of distinction. Finished in classic vintage green or available in a variety of other colours. £1,190 Barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk

£12.99 thewetbrush.com

Hercules Sagemann Made by professional for professionals, the range of Carbon Combs from Hercules Sägemann was developed in collaboration with Japanese hairdressers and designed with both stylists and clients in mind. The manually rounded tips of each comb are gentle to both hair and scalp, providing anti-static and heat resistant benefits – all properties that help the provide the best service possible. £9.20 hercules-saegemann.de

Andis – Profoil Lithium Titanium Foil Shaver Andis has set a new benchmark with their new two blade foil to shaver. The Profoil Lithium Titanium Soil Shaver ensures all stumbled is taken clean off, leaving the skin smooth for the ideal finish cut after cut. The shaver’s battery lasts up to 80 minutes fully charged. The individual hypoallergenic foils boasts two rows of cutting blades, developed to maintain their edge and performance. andis.com

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Photography, Styling, Hair: Gregson Gastar Makeup: Chawee

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ESSE X ME N From boys to men, Joey Power and Joe Sloan are taking the next step in their already sterling barbering careers with the launch of their new shop Eighty8 in Rayleigh, Essex.

oe will be known to many as the driving force, alongside his father Adam, of the Young Feds – the MHFed’s artistic team. There he met Joey who had been brought up under the eventful eye of Johnny BaBa, and an instant bond was formed. A bond built over their love to create. Now ‘love to create’ is the strapline and motto of Eighty8, but it’s the two barbers’ partnership that is the true driving force behind the brand. Joe jokes that “it was love at first sight” as we discuss the beginnings of Eighty8 and how the two came to be business partners. While it might not have been love, as the Wall Street saying goes: ‘A fisherman always sees another fisherman from afar,’ and Joe and Joey instantly recognised in one another that they would be a good team. “You both gotta be singing from the same hymn sheet, you both gotta strive to be going to the same place,” says Joe. “You only need to spend two minutes with us to see how we’re thriving. Our backgrounds just fit the roles perfectly.” Having been cutting hair for over half his life, Joe is well experienced in his craft, fronting much of the MHFed education as well as leading the Young Feds. The same can be said of Joey who says he “had a great opportunity working for Johnny BaBa

Why Eighty8? Joey and Joe were born in the same week in the year… you guessed it, 1988. An 8 is also an infinity symbol on its side which symbolises the endless Why Eighty8? possibilities the brand. Joey and Joeofwere born in the same week in the year… you guessed it, 1988. An 8 is also an infinity symbol on its side which symbolises the endless possibilities of the brand.

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in Spitalfields. He taught me how a barbershop should be run.” Combining their talents has created one impressive partnership which subscribes to Joe’s philosophy that “if you’re going to have a business partner you need to offer two different things. You can’t go in with the same skillset and we both have different ways of doing things. You need to be around us to witness this but we really are unstoppable. “We share everything as a business. The only thing we don’t share are our girlfriends,” Joe laughs. There’s no questioning their energy and compatibility but it takes more than that to run a successful shop – especially if you want it, as they do, to be truly sensational. But Joe and Joey both had a vision for what they wanted. “There’s loads of great barbershops out there,” says Joey. “And I don’t want to say everyone’s following suit but there’s a big hype with Schorem and that old traditional style shop which is brilliant. But I envisioned a new breed if you like. Something that no one’s done before.”

artworks with neon signage and 3D Escheesque tiled walls give it a truly unique feel. The smartly styled suits worn by all barbers on duty add to the look. Even the staff will be hand-trained by Joe, the master of education. “I don’t believe in taking on barbers with a skillset. I always train them up as I’m a firm believer in barbers doing things the way I need them to be done - I like to grow them organically.” Eighty8 was never going to be a chop shop, but with prices of up to double what the local competition is offering, are they taking a big risk? Joey isn’t concerned. “Everyone is floating around saying ‘price margin’ but if we set ourselves at that price margin then we are just following sheep and there’s nothing that sets up apart from other barbesrhops in the area – so we priced ourselves out of that.

To do that, every minute detail had to be perfect. Starting with the interior of the shop.

“The fact is we’ve got a beautiful environment to cut hair. They aren’t rushed in and rushed out. They will get looked after, we’ll have a laugh, and they’ll get an excellent haircut. Not every man wants to be fixed up quickly.

“We got an artist called Art_by_H_ and with direction from us he helped to put Eighty8 together. The concept was barbershop collides with an art gallery,” Joey explains. Simple modernist black surfaces and bright abstracted

“I believe in my craft and I believe in what Joe and I do. I value my time and once you give someone an experience, price doesn’t come into it. The fact we charge £25, people won’t bat an eyelid at that.”

To ensure that they provide the perfect service for clients, and to justify the expense, Joe and Joey run a tight ship and ensure all staff fully embrace the Eighty8 brand. Joey says that: “our ethos is we work really fucking hard. Whatever everyone thinks is hard, double that.” “It’s understanding our philosophy and how important service is as well as a great haircut,” says Joe. “Once you get everything in sync, the biggest factor is being a team player. All your clients see is you giving them a good haircut, selling them products, but being part of a team is getting in half an hour before work each day making sure everything is setup. We have a meeting at half six every Saturday morning, we do some hours here! After we finish we disinfect the whole shop, mop the floors, have a debrief and make sure everything is running as well as possible. You will get hiccups but it’s about ironing them out. It’s paramount they are a team player.” In return, staff get an education of the highest order. As well as working alongside Joe and Joey which is an education in its own right, the Eighty8 staff get first hand access to the many training nights that Joe is running through the MHFed academy which is now in Eighty8. He says: “The position I had within the MHFed

I wasn’t really vocal about on social media, but I was here from the beginning, before all the barbering magazines, before the barbering boom. I was fortunate enough to work alongside some big guys before they had a big following, their ambassadorships, their own brands, their own product companies. I’ve built up healthy relationships with so many people in our industry and now we’re putting ourselves on the map. We’re looking to collaborate with a lot of people on the MHFed academy.” Their first night of education with American Crew All Star winner Sam Wall shows the calibre of talent they are attracting and we can expect to see more coming soon to Rayleigh. But what else for the Eighty8 brand, what are the long term ambitions? “Me and Joe, we’re on the same page with where we want to go,” Joey says. “It comes down to supporting our families and having a good life. What we’re creating here in Rayleigh we believe has a very strong, solid foundation in the business model that can be replicated over and over again. Eventually when Eighty8 salons pop up everywhere you’ll know that level of service will be replicated.” But Joe is aiming even bigger. He laughs, saying: “Next stop we might look into parliament for the Prime Minister role. Once we start knocking doors…” Who knows what they might achieve.

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Eighty 8 La u n ch N i g h t

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Rayleigh Rally

The local community and top talents from the barbering industry came together to celebrate the launch of Eighty8. Joining Joe and Joey was the older Sloan, Adam, head of the MHFeds, plus Chris Foster, Sam Wall, Sheriff Mehmet, Kevin Vorley, Kevin Luchmun, and many more! Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fewer more elegant places for a chilled out party than the stylish Eighty8 shop.

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Perfect that

Artistic teams are ten a penny these days. Whether it’s a mid-size brand or a small chain of barbershops, everyone is taking it upon themselves to showcase what they or their products can do. And quite right – by participating in photo shoots and releasing collections, you increase your chances of appearing in a magazine such as this one or of winning one of the many competitions bloating the industry right now. So how do you stand out? The guys at Outline Creative Team have taken it upon themselves to do more than just tasty haircuts. “Ultimately we want to offer people from fashion, brands, music, anything that’s visual really, an opportunity to work with us,” explains co-founder Myles Lewis. Rather than focusing on solely haircuts, Outline Creative Team are much more than that, instead combining their contacts and knowledge of the fashion industry, videography, make-up, essentially anything that will make for a fantastic creative experience.

Final Image With outline Creative team Born from the ashes of Guerrilla Barbering, the charity organisation founded by Myles and that featured four of the five Outline members, they came to the attention of Wahl UK’s Global Artistic Director Simon Shaw at HJ Live where they made their debut on-stage appearance. They were invited to Wahl’s Herne Bay base and all signed up as Wahl Ambassadors – not bad for a fledgling outfit, but their vast range of experience prior to Outline certainly weighs in their favour. There are still plans to resurrect Guerrilla Barbering under the Outline umbrella and continue the years of great charity work that Myles and the guys were part of, while Myles also assures as that there’s plenty of great stuff to come from Outline in the coming months. 26 | BarberNV Magazine

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Celebrity Style – Getting Facial Hair into Fine Fettle Danny Baggs, co-founder of premium men’s grooming brand, FineFettle offers some bearded celebs advice on how to make the most of the facial hair. Chris Hemsworth I’m a little underwhelmed by Chris’s bristles. It’s all a bit late 80s designer stubble. If anyone can carry off a fuller beard, it’s Thor, right? I’d definitely suggest Chris let his facial hair grow for a few weeks, making sure he gets regular trims to keep it shaped – although think rugged explorer rather than Doctor Strange. Chris should also start using a conditioning product, such as FineFettle’s Beard Conditioner which would work with the skin’s natural oils to ensure the beard and moustache remain hydrated and softer, while helping soothe skin and avoid irritation as hair grows. Come on Chris, grow a beard a hero could be proud of!

Miguel R&B sensation, Miguel knows how to carry off a beard, with his facial hair well-groomed, but still featuring plenty of natural texture, like his head hair. With Afro or mixed heritage hair, a conditioner is particular important for helping keep hair hydrated. I’d recommend FineFettle Conditioner for its moisturising properties, followed by a small amount of Beard Oil. Always apply the Beard Oil after the conditioner, as this will help lock in moisture. The oil and conditioner combo will also give Miguel’s facial hair a healthy shine, perfect for when he is performing in the spotlight.

Jared Leto If Jared is going to keep with these long flowing looks, I’d say he should embrace a longer, fuller beard too. This way, he’d look a bit more rock and roll and less 1970s hippy. But each to their own! If Jared did decide to grow it, I’d suggest regular visits to a barber or salon for professional trims plus a daily conditioning regime to keep it in peak condition and avoid irritation while it grows. Jared also has the bone structure and personality to carry off more of a statement moustache. I’d suggest investing in a good quality moustache wax, like ours, which contains bees wax for a firm but pliable hold, and experiment with some strong styles that will get him noticed on the red carpet. Find out more about FineFettle at www.finefettlegrooming.com 28 | BarberNV Magazine

Tips on entering awards by Su e Whit e h e ad , MD o f Jac ks o f Lo n d o n

As voting closes on this year’s Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards sponsored by BarberNV and SalonNV, well over 100,000 votes have been cast – a new record. Every single one of those people had bothered to go online and vote for their favourite stylist, barber, or therapist. It shows how much awards mean. Bagging best barber or coolest men’s image, or even being shortlisted, can turn a small barbershop into a hit overnight. Client and team recruitment and retention are suddenly so much easier, because people want their hair cut by winners or they want to work with them.

Last year, Jacks of London was shortlisted in more than 10 major awards; we won one - Best Male Grooming Salon. Since then we’ve attracted new franchisees, recruited brilliant new barbers, increased traffic to all our Jacks stores, been invited to perform on stage and been courted by big manufacturers. This year, we’ve been just as active, entering every award we can, and so far we’ve been shortlisted in all of them. The talent on our team is phenomenal, but it takes more than individuals to create a winning entry. We are also highly organised and plan meticulously:

•

Long before we go into the studio, we’ve worked together as a team to develop our concept and we’ve practised multiple times. This helps ensure our finished looks and colours are highly polished and that we can work quickly and without drama.

•

We extend the concept to the clothes and make-up to ensure they are all part of the narrative of our collection.

•

Recently, we’ve been working with a stylist. It might seem like a luxury but it means we don’t need to worry about clothes and accessories, freeing us to focus on the hair.

•

We decide early in the game who will be on our team, and involve them as we generate our ideas, rather than after. We communicate often, especially with our photographer, so everyone understands our ideas before we go into the studio.

• –

Model quality is crucial to a successful shoot, and we don’t just seek out the best models we can afford, we also look for guys who will let us make our mark we don’t want to photograph another barber’s work.

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The hardest thing to do, but the most important, is setting the budget and sticking to it, but we don’t deviate. We don’t want any horrible surprises regarding cost at the end. That includes discussing any fees with our photographer right at the start.

•

We get everyone involved who wants to be. It’s motivating for them, and that enthusiasm and experience shine through in their day-to-day work in-salon.

•

But we don’t just focus on the photographic based awards; we also enter written ones. For those, we work with a professional writer who knows the company intimately, and we make sure the entry is well-designed and packed full of amazing images, and we get it printed professionally.

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Last of all, make sure you check the deadline and stick to it. Competition organisers won’t wait for your entry.

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Mob Deep

With a budget of ÂŁ10,000 and a bucket load of sweat, Matt Vurley has opened his first barbershop in Southport. Tucked away off the main road, The Mob Club is a team effort with Matt calling on family and friends to get the shop open in less than a month on a shoestring budget.

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Photography by Dave Brown

aking centre stage is the 60,000 penny strong statement floor, painstakingly put together by Matt, his wife, and best friend over a series of 20-hour days. One of which resulted in a hospital visit for Matt after he collapsed through dehydration and tiredness – when we say The Mob Club was put together with a lot of blood, sweat, and tears we mean it literally. The shop itself is a traditional style, two station classic barbershop. The exposed brick aesthetic adds some rustic charm while Matt scoured eBay to gather the furnishings, with antique desks adding an air of authenticity to the surroundings. The result is a stylish speakeasy vibe, with the black and copper theme being both modern and vintage. Having learned his craft under Johnny BaBa and Dan and Robert Rix, Matt’s skills are as well-rounded as his shop and despite having only four years’ experience under his belt, it’s clear he has a talent for it. A former assistant director on Coronation Street, it’s been quite a career change for Matt but one he has taken to well. His customers clearly agree, with Matt saying a high percentage have followed him to his new shop, while its location next to a busy gym allows for more passing trade. The Mob Club offers a full range of barber services including shaving and beard trims plus the more adventurous can have their ears and nose done.

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Adolescence to Adulthood Hair: Matt Vurley

Photography: Dave Brown Model: Ethan Amundsen

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Barber of the Glen High quality in the Highlands from Jade Sandever With a population of barely over a thousand, Kingussie is well and truly in ‘small town’ territory. Tucked away deep in the Highlands of Scotland you wouldn’t expect it to be the epicentre of fashion, yet if you walk around you’ll notice there’s a disproportionate amount of fantastic haircuts. Jade Sandever has something to do with that. A barber TeamNV has had its eye on for a while, Jade recently reached the final of Scotland’s Best Barber and found herself cutting on the Andis stage. From Kingussie to the world, Jade is showing barbers that now more than ever it’s about your talent, not your location.

Jade cutting at the Scottish Barber Show

o be fair, the Highlands is some location. Stunning natural beauty awaits you round every corner. Lochs become burns. Burns become castles. Castles become stunning glens. But when it comes to achieving a rounded knowledge base in a trade like barbering, it’s not the epicentre of education. To get to her current standard, Jade’s journey has taken her to the other side of the world and back. Swapping the salon in Aviemore (a slightly bigger small Scottish town) where she’d first learned the trade for a bustling big city salon in Auckland, New Zealand, it was a bold move. “It was completely different,” Jade tells us. “In Aviemore we were super busy but it was still a small town barbershop. In Auckland there was a team of about 10/11 and we were right in the city centre. It was flat out every day.” That barbershop was Maloney’s, an award-winning New Zealand barber that offered Jade a whole new

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perspective on exactly that the industry entails. She says: “It was such a mix of folk: from businessmen to personal trainers to rugby players to singers. “I worked with a couple of South Pacific Islanders and they were so good at their fading which was what I struggled with when I went over there. I knew I could do it but not as good as I wanted to do it, working with them they would take so much time to teach me how to do things. “You feel like each day you’re at your best then you look back and realise you actually weren’t and there’s so much to learn. Just as here in the UK we were starting to go to the more textured styles in barbering, they were still doing stuff like slick back styles and hard parts which I thought I was really good at but watching them realised I had a lot to learn. It was good to perfect that.” A year in New Zealand improved Jade no end and she returned to the UK with a fresh set of skills and

the desire to put them to the test. While before she had thought she was a good barber, now she was on her way to becoming a great one. She just needed one quick pit-stop, at one of the most renowned barbers in the UK. Jade found herself earning a job at Hard Grind’s barbershop in Aberdeen. The talent that has come from their two shops over the past few years is second to none and they spotted that same level in Jade. “It was unbelievably flattering to get asked to go there,” Jade admits. “In the six months I was with Hard Grind I learned more than I had in the four years of my whole career. It was unbelievable.” Yes, despite absolutely loving the work at Hard Grind, Jade only stayed for half a year. While you can take the barber out of the Highlands, you can’t take the Highlands out of the barber, and the yearning for home was too strong for Jade. City life was not for her.

Jade returned to Kingussie and Ampla Vella Hair and Beauty where she currently plies her trade, and where she was when she was made it to the final of this year’s Scotland’s Best Barber at the Scottish Barber Show. Entering on a whim turned out to be the proudest achievement of Jade’s career to date. She says: “To be in the final six in Scotland was unreal. Being from the Highlands and feeling like you’re not well known, I wanted to show that we’re still involved.

Professional Hair and Sail over to our website Beard products that www.skullandboneuk.com provide undoubtable quality, performance 10% Off your first order and results with a using code MAIDEN10 nautical twist.

“On the day I was really happy with it. I took a bit of a risk as it was the first time I attempted it. I had planned what I wanted to do to a T but I wasn’t able to practice it beforehand, but it really paid off. The only thing I probably could have improved on was maybe stage presence as that’s where Sam [Massey, the winner] trumped everyone. He was so good. I know in myself that’s what I need to improve on.” Something Jade doesn’t need to work on is one aspect of becoming a top barber that many wannabes neglect – networking. Isolated in the Highlands, it’s not feasible for Jade to have a lot of one-to-one contact with fellow barbers, but she has turned a passion for social media to her advantage. Jade explains that she “realised the power of networking and social media is unbelievable. Half the things I’m doing and have done would not have happened without social media. I have worked with one of the UK’s best barbershops, I got my job in New Zealand through social media, and I got to cut on stage witrh Andis. Now I’m involved with the Great British Barber Bash and that’s all through social media. “You have to be so vulnerable and put yourself out there. You have to accept criticism. You have to take all these things on board or you’ll never get where you want to be. I know I’m not as skilled as some of the bigger names out there but I like to think I make myself vulnerable and chap on as many doors as possible – even if it’s just introducing yourself to someone and saying ‘I love your work.’ As soon as you make these links with other people it happens.” Making even basic relationships with fellow barbers can lead to untold opportunities in the future. In this

industry you never know where scissors, clippers, and a good attitude can take you. For Jade it’s already worked wonders and she’s only at the start of what is surely a bright career. “If I can leave some sort of mark I want to inspire

people that it doesn’t matter where you’re from or where you’re based, if you’re producing a good standard of work and networking and putting yourself out there, you can be where you want to be,” is the sage advice Jade leaves us with.

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Win at barbering with Windsor Barbers Looking to brush up your skills with one of the most highly rated barbershops in the UK? Well, look no further than the Windsor Barbers Academy. With over 30 years’ experience in the barbering industry and the recipient of many awards – with Men’s Health and Esquire Magazine voting them Britain’s Best Barbers – Windsor Barbers is a first class barbershop that’s popular with celebrities and the general public alike. However, Windsor Barbers is first and foremost a working and teaching salon with a reputation for excellence. That is set to increase with the launch of the Windsor Barbers Academy. “It makes perfect sense to utilise our building and the talent we have available. We want to share our knowledge with students both experienced and non-experienced and give them the qualifications they need to succeed at whatever level they choose,” said Paul J. Harris, Director of Windsor Barbers. The Windsor Barber Academy will provide a fresh and creative environment for local, national and international students, delivering courses that will enable them to succeed within a rapidly growing industry.

“Our vision is not just to teach barbering skills. We want to show our students how to work smart,” said Sarah Harris, Artistic Director of Windsor Barbers. “Combining excellent hairdressing skills with innovative sales and marketing techniques can make for a much more exciting and financially rewarding career.” Recently, Windsor Barbers showcased a Barbering and Hairdressing Masterclass in Cardiff featuring The Daryn Pittman (TDP), the multi-award winning international barbering educator and master barber. The event also included David Barnett, international motivational speaker and business educator along with Colin Shove, the creator of Salon Advantage Systems. With practical demonstrations in classic and modern barbering techniques by Paul J. Harris and Windsor Barbers staff, the event is an example of how to combine hands-on skills with a motivational business approach. This winning combination is sure to attract plenty of aspiring barbers to the new Academy. For further information on the Academy’s courses visit: www.windsorbarbersacademy.com Windsor Barbers is located at 17 Windsor Place, Cardiff.

“Our vision is not just to teach barbering skills. We want to show our students how to work smart” Sarah Harris, Artistic Director of Windsor Barbers.

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BARBER BAR B ER EEQUIPMENT Q U I P M ENT CENTRE CENTRE BRINGS BRINGSYOU YOU

BARBER SHOP Originals

Antique Barber Chairs – Koken, Theo Kochs, Archer, Berninghaus, Takara Bemont & Ogee plus others pass through our hands, if interested ask for our latest stock.

The invention of electricity was revolutionary, but also brought many “dodgy” products to the market. The Magneto machine claimed to cure nervous diseases, the electric comb rids you of wrinkles and worry lines, the electric hair brush will cure your baldness, early processors regularly disfigured the scalp, and flames from gas hood dryers engulfed the customers hair...

For this and much more follow our daily Instagram feed @barbershoporiginals.

Barber Shop Originals…. Keeping the history of the barbering trade alive. www.barbershoporiginals.co.uk 38 | BarberNV Magazine

Chicago Brother to the Capone smelted in gun metal chrome, taking the traditional looking chair and adding a touch of modernity to embrace the character and feel within your shop!

BEC A division of SEC Leicester Road, Lutterworth, Leicestershire, LE17 4HF www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk

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BSL 2018 From the moment we were picked up at Schiphol Airport in a BarberSociety Live branded Mini Countryman, it was clear this year’s event was going to be even more special than before.

BarberSociety Live. Expanding to two days, the line-up was bigger than ever and the public responded in kind, with over 1,000 visitors heading to the Westergasfabriek for the third edition of BarberSociety Live. A growing number of international visitors were in attendance including barbers from around mainland Europe, Britain, Iceland, and Russia to witness top barbers from as far away as the United States and Hong Kong show their skills on stage. The relaxed festival vibe created a conducive atmosphere for barbers from different countries to exchange experiences. Barbers and students were also challenged during the battles, which was a great addition to the extensive programme! BarberSociety Live 2018 was made possible by XXL sponsor 1922 by J.M.Keune and sponsors American Crew and Wahl. In addition to the hundreds of visitors, no less than 45 businesses (both trade-related and lifestyle brands) took part in this unique event. BarberSociety Live provides an experience that has become a permanent feature in the European barber scene! As well as the shows and silent disco seminars, there were lots of other fun elements including a terrace with food trucks, a cigarette roller, cocktails, beer, a shoe cleaner, a well-filled goody bag and, as icing on the cake, a tattoo artist who placed no less than 25 tattoos

Images by Darren Fotografie

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with the BarberSociety Live logo. Proud to be a barber! Marc van de Hare, initiator and organiser, looked back on a successful event: “We’re delighted to see this event keep growing. Our aim is to bring together as many barbers as possible so they can learn from each other and exchange experiences. And we’ve succeeded in achieving that aim this year! We’re also very pleased with the addition of two battles to the programme. It’s great to see participants from different countries working side by side and to discover the cultural differences in the cutting techniques. The students’ competition was also fantastic and we’re grateful that colleges from across the Netherlands participated. We are proud that famous barbers from the Netherlands and abroad enjoy giving shows at our event. It was extraordinary that the Asian Hair Masters Association from China/Hong Kong shared its vision on men’s hairstyles on stage. Dutch native Ronald de Bont also put on a brilliant show in his role as national ambassador of 1922 by J.M.Keune (our XXL sponsor). We’ve received so many positive reactions, also from barber organisations in other countries. It makes us incredibly proud to hear that many of them consider this the best barber event in Europe. So it is with good reason that 25 barbers got a tattoo with our logo this year!”

BarberSociety Battle Participants from France, Greece, Hungary, and the Netherlands faced off in the first BarberSociety Battle. Judged by Alan Findlay (UK), Mark van Mierlo (NL, and Antonio Esposito (IT), the eventual winner overall was Ionut Matei from Nero Barbershop in Ermelo, the Netherlands. You can read an interview with Ionut later on in the issue. BarberNV Columnist Alan Findlay played a key role in the setup of the judging and he had this to day about the event. “The level of skill of the competitors was very very close and a few caught my eye especially the Greeks who had flair and panachè as they worked. It was really nice to see so many different countries represented at the battle. There was real passion and desire to win on show and many asked for feedback after the show on how they can improve their skills. So I was highly impressed and thought the winners were on merit.”

Categor y winners: • Cleanest fade: Ionut Matei, Nero Barbershop, The Netherlands (585 points)

• Old School Scissor cut: Boaz Lavina, True Gents Barbershop, The Netherlands (880 points) • Freestyle: Lillu Schneiker, The North Barber and Beauty Salon, Hungary (1075 points).

Top 3 winners (total): 1. Ionut Matei (NL), Nero Barbershop (total 2320 points) 2. Lillu Schneiker (HU), The North Barber and Beauty Salon (total 2310 points) 3. Dimitris Georgopoylos (GR), Fratzadiko (total 2080 points)

BSL People’s Choice Barbershop Award One barbershop from either the Netherlands or Belgium could claim the People’s Choice award which was naturally decided by a public vote. Supported by BarberSociety Live and men’s grooming platform WieWetHem.nl and sponsored by 1922 by J.M. Keune, the winner was Joucke’s Barbershop in Doetinchem, the Netherlands. A client of Joucke’s Barbershop wrote: “You smell all the wonderful scents the second you walk in the door! You’re handed a beer and sit in a comfortable chair surrounded by men who want to get away from their wives for a while. You then to take a seat and get a great cut by one of the barbers!’”

The Line-up • Mikey Henger (USA) • Ronald de Bont (on behalf of 1922 by J.M. Keune) (NL) • Paul Mac Special (IE) • Matthew Fleetwood of Sid Sottung Academy (UK) • Leah Hayden Cassidy (IE) • Kevin Boon (International Barber Awards 2017 winner) (BE) • Zen Yip and Lok Chan of AHMA (Asia Hair Masters Association) (HK) •James Williams (UK) • Spiridon Kaparakis (GR) • MENSPIRE Academy (UK) • Alan Findlay, James Beattie, Martin Fox of The B.O.M.B. Squad (UK) • Sam Wall (UK), on behalf of American Crew • Ali Jamali (NL), on behalf of American Crew • Gemma Willock Smith, Alan Findlay and Rafal Kwiatkowska of Rebel Rebel (UK) • Scapicchio Accademia (IT) • Host: Chris Foster (UK)

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Marc Van de Hare

founder and organiser of BarberSociety Live BarberSociety Live. BarberSociety Live is finished for another year, how did it go? It was a big success and a great vibe, we had such a blast! We’re delighted to see this event keep growing. More brands, more visitors, and also more international visitors from all over the world like Russia, Greece, and Iceland etc. Our aim is to bring together as many barbers as possible so they can learn from each other and exchange experiences. And we’ve succeeded in achieving that aim this year! We’re also very pleased with the addition of two battles to the programme for the first time; a BARBERSOCIETY BATTLE for national and international barbers and a YOUNG TALENT BATTLE in association with Dutch hairdressing and barbering colleges. Both battles were judged by national and international jury members. It’s great to see participants from different countries working side by side and to discover the cultural differences in the cutting techniques. The students’ competition on the second day was also fantastic and we are happy that lots of students were able to visit this edition too so that they can learn from the talents in the industry and see how wonderful the men’s hair profession is! We are proud that famous barbers from the Netherlands and abroad enjoy giving shows at our event. We’ve received so many positive reactions, also from barber organisations in other countries. It makes us incredibly proud to hear that many of them consider this the best barber event in Europe. So it is with good reason that 25 barbers got a tattoo with our logo this year! You went even bigger than the last two years and added a second day to include hairdressers/anyone who wanted to come along, how well did that work?

the event. The line-up was also more international than ever before, with world-famous barbers, even from the US, like Mikey Henger showing off their skills on stage. It was extraordinary that the Asian Hair Masters Association from China/Hong Kong shared its vision on men’s hairstyles on stage too. Dutch native Ronald de Bont also put on a brilliant educational show in his role as national ambassador of 1922 by J.M.Keune (our big sponsor). All the barbers on our stage have their own identity and different styles and are great talents. The barbers who surprised me very much were the two barbers from Hong Kong representing the Asian Hair Masters Association , Zen Yip & Lok Chan. I was impressed by their high level of quality and the total look - amazing clothing! The extra day must have meant a lot more work for you? Yes, it meant more work because we had also an impressive programme for the second day. So, more to arrange, promote, and communicate. And to reach another target audience; in former years our main focus was upon barbers and men’s hairdressers, members of our private Facebook BarberSociety community. The hardest thing was to find models for our barber talents on stage. To fix the right models gave us quite some struggles, but that’s not special: it’s a struggle they have everywhere. The communication with our participating brands remained the same, so a second day did not take extra time or effort in that aspect what was nice because we needed our time for the programme, communication, and of course the organization of the battles. Why do you think BSL continues to be so successful?

The line-up was fantastic this year, who were you excited to see on stage?

Because we have a special concept; not a traditional trade fair, but an event. We put a lot of effort in creating a special vibe and experience. A vibe in which people are ‘open’ and willing to share their experiences. In addition to shows and silent disco seminars, there were lots of other fun elements including a terrace with food trucks, a cigarette roller, cocktails, beer, a shoe cleaner, a well-filled goody bag and, as icing on the cake, a tattoo artist who placed tattoos with the BarberSociety Live logo for free. There was also a MINI shuttle service from the parking garage to Zuiveringshal West and ‘the last mile’ to Zuiveringshal could be travelled on e-bike choppers. The personal touch is very important; for our participating brands, barber talents and visitors it felt very informally. Like one big family. Besides that, we listen to the market, ‘what do people like?’ and we respond to that immediately.

Yes, this third edition of BarberSociety Live showcased a very impressive line-up! There were no less than 21 shows by barbering talents from the Netherlands and abroad during the two days of

We’re not giving away much yet, but we will definitely add new things to the event and we’ll do more collaborations next year.

Because we would like to give anyone the opportunity to experience the world of barbering, we added a second day to our event open to anyone interested for the first time. The first day was for barbers/men’s hair stylists only. We were happily surprised how many people visited the event on the second day, especially hairdressers from mixed and ladies salons and students; hairdressing schools also were enthusiastic to come and organized buses for their students to come as a group. But also people from the fashion industry and consumers were there. Lots of people told me they were surprised on how good the atmosphere was. They enjoyed the event very much and we did too!

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What will you do next year to improve BSL, if anything?

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NERO

BARBERSHOP Having worked as a men’s hairdresser in London for eight years and having loved the barbering culture, describing it as “the place to be for gent’s grooming,” Nero de Boer travelled back to his native Netherlands to open the very first Nero Barbershop. Nero learned a lot while working in London. So much so, that once he moved back to the Netherlands, he knew what he wanted from his own barbershop and sought to emulate the environment for gents he found in England’s capital. Nero returned under the right set of circumstances, the area had no barbershop to speak of and he was able to capture the attention of the wave of Dutch men turning out to be made into gents. He says: “Barbershops are really up and coming. Nowadays the Dutch men can’t imagine a proper haircut without a barbershop.” When asked what separates Nero’s from the crowd, he laughed before telling us: “It’s difficult for me to say, you’d have to ask my customers. We listen carefully to what the customers wants.” Nero’s is the complete package, offering music to make customers feel at ease, an ear for their stories, and an encyclopaedic memory of every face that walks through the door ready for when they’ll undoubtedly return. He added: “Sometimes you have to act like their psychologist, we spray a little perfume but most of all they have to leave the shop as a real gentlemen.” This feeling turned ethos, captured Nero while working in London, that sense the customer should always leave your chair as a true gentleman. Having come second in the Best Barber competition at BarberSociety Live, we asked Nero how he found the show, he says: “The event was fantastic! We support events like BarberSociety Live because we need a place to showcase our art and a place to meet other barbers.” However, young barber, Romanian-born, Ionut won the Barber Battle at BarberSociety Live. Nero expressed his overwhelming pride in Ionut, predicting a glittering future for the young barber. “We are very proud of Ionut! He came to work in our shop without much experience. He has grown so much the past two years and we will support him wherever and whenever he needs it. We are going to see more and more of him!” When asked on his favourite aspect of barbering, Nero gleefully answers: “I love shaving because I love the cracking sound of the hair when it touches the razor.” It’s the pleasure in simplicity that shows a man still very much passionate about the trade, adding: “There are too many tools and products on the market and it’s growing too fast. I would like to see less tools and products with more of a focus on quality.” Already looking to the future, playing with the idea of creating a franchise of barbershops, Nero tells us: “The third barbershop is on the way now and we would love to expand more in the future. I would like to have more Nero barbershops in the bigger cities. But, I would also love to have a barbershop in London. So, if anyone feels like they want to run a franchise, you’re welcome to contact us!”

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THE NEXT BIG THING? Romanian-born Ionut Matei moved to the Netherlands in 2014 and after spending a year-and-a-half of searching for his calling in life he began learning the trade at a barber school in Amsterdam. Now, just two-and-a-half years later Ionut has been crowned the victor of the Barber Battle at Barber Society Live. After some time at the school Ionut found himself working at the Nero Barbershop and after just two months Ionut describes finding his true passion working at Nero’s: “I really enjoy working with my colleagues and clients.” While some might seek to gain the esteem and applause afforded by a stocked awards cabinet. This isn’t what keeps Ionut’s fire burning. Much like his mentor Nero, Ionut’s ethos revolves solely around the desires of whoever sits in his chair, as he tells us: “My style of barbering is first and foremost about what my customer wants. Many barbers have asked me what hairstyles I am good at, what styles I like and I try to explain that I like all styles. I don’t just have the one style I do best” Earlier this year Nero convinced Ionut to take part in the Barber Battle, believing wholeheartedly in his ability to compete on such a prestigious stage against top-flight talent. Ionut tells us about the experience slugging it out with top-class barbers at BLS: “Every round was very exciting but, I was nervous because of the amount of people watching me. “I was satisfied at the end result of each haircut. Although, I thought I could do better, but because of the tension and the nerves you’ll never be as good as you are in the shop. I also thought that the other barbers taking part in the competition were very talented with good technique and good cutting.” Ionut tells us the elation he felt when he was announced as the triumphant gladiator in the Barber Battle: “It was one of the best days of my life, I was super happy. I almost couldn’t believe that I had achieved this in just two-and-a-half years! I immediately thought ‘this is the beginning of my career.’” As he reflects on the battles won and victories held high, Ionut looks to his future in barbering. He says: “I hope to gain even more experience in the future. Especially in Dutch so I can do more shows and give lessons to other barbers. In spite of his win, it is the last thing he tells us which really encapsulates the humbling attitude of the talented young barber: “I just hope that I will continue to enjoy my work.”

Images by Darren Fotografie

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ith three barbershops and salons, and several TV appearances, Ronald de Bont is one of the most well-respected stylists in the Netherlands. So much so that he has been tasked, along with Britain’s own Tom Chapman and James Beaumont, of helping to bring Dutch hair product giants Keune’s new men’s range, 1922 by J.M. Keune to market. Launching at BarberSociety Live, Ronald took to the stage alongside his son to showcase the new products, providing the perfect family association for a family brand. Ronald opened his first unisex salon way back in 1991, with his first men-only barbershop not following until 2008. It was the first sign that the barbering was coming into its own in the Netherlands and Ronald was among the pioneers. He now thinks it’s here to stay. “I don’t think that male customers will ever go back to being cut by someone who isn’t a specialist,” he tells us. “Customers know now there is a difference between cutting men and women so I can’t see them going back to the unisex salon.” As part of his work with Keune, Ronald is providing educational courses that will help barbers take their talents to the next lvel, something he believes the traditional barbershops are in need of. He says: “There’s old school shops who are into the fundamentals but we need more creativity in the haircuts – it’s a little bit stuck, everyone does the same hairstyles. When you want to make a building you don’t start from the balcony, you start on the foundation. The foundations are there but now we are going to build the building. “The nice thing is there’s a lot of competition between barbers because there’s a lot of men and everyone wants to be the best, but they call collaborate, they all share things. When I was on stage at BarberSociety Live I met guys from the UK, Brazil,

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Ronald de Bont

Like father, like son On stage at BarberSociety Live was the culmination of a life’s work for not just Ronald but his family, as he was joined on stage by his son Sjors. As you can see from the image alongside, Ronald has been helping Sjors become a hairstylist since he was a child of just nine, and for the two of them to educate on stage together was a dream come true. Sjors helps to run one of Ronald’s shops FYP (For Young People), his take on a more fashionable and trendy barbershop. By integrating more hairdressing techniques and by selling clothing alongside, it’s a lot more than just an old school barbershop. The de Bont family collection also adds to why Ronald is such a good fit for the family values of Keune. America, Hong Kong and we all shared with each other ‘Oh what did you do?’” Ronald has had some truly innovative ideas when it comes to training barbers, not least his ‘So You Are a Barber?’ competition that saw 32 complete novices to the hair game battle it out for a chance to work with him. “We did a lot of tests: visualisation, hand-eye coordination, fine motor skills, and the most important thing is the social part and touching somebody else. I did a lot of training and education courses so I tried to blend all those things into tests and used them to select the ones I thought were the most talented.” The result was a plumber, a member of the military, a 47-year old graphic designer, and two guys who had been working at clothing companies joining Ronald at his shop for a wholly new adventure. To get the barbers the requisite experience, Ronald came up with the idea of spending a month doing cuts for charities. Within a year they had sold 10,000 haircuts, and now four of the original five have their own barbershops and Ronald started the venture all over again.

Another of Ronald’s successes was when he took part in a national television show to train a 62-year old man with no hairdressing experience to become a barber. It worked and the contestant continues to cut hair today.

Sjor age 9

These unique concepts have helped to bring plenty of attention to Ronald and as the industry gets more competitive in the Netherlands, Ronald continues to remain at the forefront of it. That’s why he was asked to front the launch of 1922 by J.M. Keune as an ambassador and he is full of pride to be working for a company with the values of Keune, saying: “It’s not common for a company so big to still be owned by the family – that’s what you see and what you feel with Keune.” As Ronald has aged, he has become more in tune with the Keune values as well. He says: “When I was younger I was into high fashion, I wore all the crazy stuff. Now I’m getting older I like more commercial, more normal, and I think that suits very well with Keune. It’s not crazy hair, it’s wearable hair, and together we can do some crazy things!”

Sjor age 20

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An Amsterdam Icon Through three generations of barbers, Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers has been a constant in the Dutch metropolis. Sure it has undergone changes as trends differed, but no matter what, it has been a source of innovation and creativity in the Netherlands. Now operated by Marc Van de Hare, organiser of BarberSociety Live, his father Wouter (aged 72) still pops by one day a week to take his place on the shop floor and keep up tradition. Both have had a massive influence on the shop’s direction over the past half century so we caught up with Wouter and Marc to discuss Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers.

Wouter Van de Hare Your father was a barber before you, so did you always want to be a barber? My father, Harm van de Hare, always told me and my three brothers that we could choose any profession we would like. Despite this fact, we all wanted to be a hairdresser. My father was my role model and I looked up to him. He was a men’s hairdresser and I was the only son that also choose to be a men’s hairdresser. When I was 15 years old, I went to the hairdressing day school. After that, I worked for several hairdressers and when I was 19 years old, I started working in my father’s barbershop. Wouter, you have 56 years of barbering experience – how much has the industry changed since you started? When I started, shaving and cutting were the only options. Customers had their own drawers filled with their own straight razor, shaving brush and hair lotion. In these times, you sold subscriptions for shaving and/or cutting. Later on, blow-drying was added. In fact, my father was the one that introduced blow-drying to the Netherlands! My father participated in the European Championship in Sweden. There he saw that Frenchmen blowing a wave in the hair with blow-driers. He thought: “I’m going to introduce blow-drying in the Netherlands.” So he has been at the basis of blow-drying in

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Holland. When razors came into trade, the own drawers disappeared because men started shaving themselves. So, shaving was not done that often anymore. When I took over my father’s business, I started doing whole treatments: cutting, washing, and blow-drying as I had learned at a previous hairdresser. These treatments replaced shaving. Another development was the selling of products. It started with brilliantine, shampoos, shaving soap, hair tonics, and straight razors. I was a men’s hairdresser but in the seventies, men visited the hairdresser less. In the ‘hippie’ era, men let their hair grow and preferred long hair, so that meant less income. Then I made the decision to become a mixed hairdressing salon. Eventually, when Marc became the owner, he brought it back to our roots: a barbershop. How is working with your son Marc? Top! Great, fantastic that you can continue your salon with your own flesh and blood. Marc brought along a lot of innovation businesswise. For example the choice to go back to our roots (men’s hair), the addition of the words ‘Amsterdam barbers’ in our name, a new logo, new image etc. You are committed to the education of barbers in the Netherlands, how have the standards improved in your lifetime?

In the beginning of my career, we made hairdressers aware that you won’t get rich from cutting alone. People had to be taught to calculate the right price so they got a good hourly wage. And look further than only cutting. I was also involved in getting better working conditions for employers and employees. A better collective agreement, attention to hygiene etc. What do you enjoy most about being a barber today? I like the whole scene, the real barbering skills including the extensive barber treatments show that you can really cut, that you are a professional. I also like to pass on my experience and knowledge to the next generation, the young. What did you think of BarberSociety Live? This event should have been here years ago! Communicating with your other colleagues to be so involved in your profession is fantastic. Exchanging experiences is of great added value, because standing still is a decline. What’s your hope for the future of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers? That it goes on for generations, because the drive of this family company is high, I hope it will be preserved for the future. I am very proud of our hairdresser family.

MARC VAN DE HARE Did you always want to be a barber? No, first I wanted to be a fighter pilot then firefighter and later a policeman (joking!). When I was five years old I decided I wanted to become a barber. It’s the best and most beautiful job there is. Your father told us that it was you who decided to turn Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers back into a barbershop, what made you come up with that decision? I always liked doing men’s hair better than doing women. There are four things that are important for your business: Who are you? What do you do? Why are you doing it? What does your company stand for? I think it’s important to stand out in your profession so that your clients and everyone else clearly knows what you’re doing and why. Before the time that I wanted to turn it back into a barbershop, it was not clear what we were doing and what we were standing for: Men/women or men or women… Of course we were standing for quality, craftsmanship. But I felt it was not distinct enough. We already had more men clients than women so after all, the decision was quite logical for me to make. Doing what I love most and what I am very good at, going back to my roots and continuing what my grandpa started! Do you enjoy working with your father in the shop? Super nice! Of course. It is special that a second and third generation can still work together. I can still learn a lot from my father and I know that our clients also like it very much to see us working together in the shop.

father pops in. I have quite a steady basis: Jeremia has been with me for 13 years now, Dennis six years, and our new team member works with us for three months now. It is very important to me that there is a great match between the colleagues. So, if I hire new people, I involve the team in the decision. We all have to have a good feeling. And of course, it is important that they match with my clientele. We train our people ourselves and organize training evenings too. For me it is important that my team is developing, knows what is going around.

of haircuts. Not only hipster short with beards: When barbers say to people ‘I am a barber’, people often think you only cut beards, but a barber can do/does so much more than cutting beards. I think that on one point, we will get a different reputation. Most of the barbershops that are opening now, are old school. The hipster shops are slowly fading in Amsterdam. If you could improve one thing about the industry what would it be?

The barbering scene in Amsterdam is growing. The amount of barbershops are sprouting up. I distinguish myself by being myself and always staying close to myself. I notice that a lot of people are watching others and want to do what the others do. They want to make ‘that dream’ like a nice car or nice vacations come true too and forget about being inventive, something what especially makes you more successful than being a copycat. People are copying others, just be original and come with something up yourself.

The thing I think I would improve about the industry in the Netherlands, is more vocational barber education. We need more barbering lessons on schools. Because now, if you’re on a hairdressing school, you first have to follow the track for ladies hair. At the end of the course they teach the students how to work with men’s hair. Also, our government decided a couple years ago that you don’t need papers to start a business like a barbershop. I think it would help if the government officially arrange that you need papers to start a business in this industry. That will definitely improve the quality and safety of the barbershops. Which is very important to me.

Do you think the barbering scene will continue to grow in Amsterdam and the Netherlands?

What are your plans for Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers in the future?

The barbering scene will absolutely continue to grow. But I also believe that change will happen. The hipster barbershops will change with different styles

I hope to continue the family business, stay innovative and keep growing. And most importantly: to have lots of fun!

How has the barbering scene in Amsterdam progressed over the past decade or so?

How would you describe the style of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers? It is a contemporary barbershop with its own identity. No copycat. We are a traditional barbershop with high service standards and we can do all facets of our profession: classic, modern, hipster, etc. That’s why we have a very wide audience that visits our shop. Also, a fun fact is that 60% of our clients are locals and 40% tourists. Can you tell us about the team you have built? We have four barber chairs and five barbers. Most of the time we work with three of us. With four on busy days like Friday and five on Saturday when my

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Hair: Eric Lovemore

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Nocturnal Animals Hair: Hermiz Daniel Photographer: Sam Bisso Make-up: Janice Wu and Georgia Ramman Stylist: Elaine Marshall

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HOMME 2 Hair: Fred Mends – Ferber Hair&Style Photographer: AGC Photography Make-up: Joana Pereira – Ferber Hair&Style

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Hair: Danielle Barr of Cutthroatpeteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Barber Co. Photographer: Jake Jervis 56 | BarberNV Magazine

Enfant Hair: Fred Mends â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Ferber Hair&Style Photographer: Fred Mendes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Ferber Hair&Style Model: Pol Mendes

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Hair: Miguel Gutierrez

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Industrial Soul Hair: Eleni Tsesmatzoglou Styling: Babylliss Pro Photography: Miguel Gutierrez Camera Assistant: Kevin Luchmun Products: Nomad Barber

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Hair: Lesley Morgan-Macbain Photographer: Dave Brown Models: Jared Wallace & Kyle Morgan Styling: Cassandra Rose Morgan 60 | BarberNV Magazine

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Hair: Josh Mihan Photographer: Annis Barton Stylist: David Murphy

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GOT BEAT Hair: Jules Tognini Photographer: Adam Finch Make-up: Sarah Smith Stylist: Jules Tognini

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Hair: Kawada Lambert Photographer: CY Wong Make-up: Steven Sunny Neoh Wardrobe: Paye Lin

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Hair: Tori Gill Photographer: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Make-up: Sarah McFadden Stylist: Melissa Nixon

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Hair: Uros Mikic Photo: Kevin Luchmun Make-up: Katie Moore Styling: Tahnee Mitra

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Alan Findlay

Welcome back readers and it is with a heavy heart as I write my article this issue as our beloved editor Simon is sadly leaving us for a new pastures in Dubai and this will be his last issue at the reins but I wish him all the best of luck on his new adventures. This issue Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to be talking about barbering education and an exciting new project that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve just taken out of the wrapper which involves a unique collaboration and is probably the first of its kind in the UK.

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MADE in Glasgow After almost 30 years in barbering and 10 of those years spent building and managing our brand of barbering at REBEL REBEL, employing and training our staff to the highest modern standards, nurturing and growing our young Rebels into happy and talented barbers, the demand for modern barbering has never been higher and we have had so much interest from people wanting a career in professional barbering and feeling a real desire to contribute to the future of barbering, I felt it was time to create our own barbering school. By chance an old friend of mine who was now a head of the hairdressing department of Glasgow Kelvin College, Tracey Leavy, got in touch with me looking for advice about a barbering course they were planning to start and then it occurred to me that wouldn’t it be great to combine the expertise and resources of college based learning with the skills and knowledge of a successful barbershop to provide a fully accredited course that provided ‘Barbershop Ready skills’. MADE the Academy For Modern Barbering is just that, a place where you earn a City & Guilds LV2 in modern barbering with the barbering philosophy of REBEL REBEL. After a few conversations and meetings with the big wigs (pun intended) at the award winning Glasgow Kelvin College the collaboration with REBEL REBEL began. Through our combined effort we have created a modern barbering academy of excellence at the Grainstore Glasgow. MADE is in a unique venue set up as a running barbershop with live models, 12 barber stations, reception, and education room with a smart board and projector for practical learning. This is where our students will learn the art of barbering in a proper barbershop environment trained by Rebel educators the REBEL REBEL way. Learning everything they need to know to become conﬁdent and competent barbers working in a modern barbershop. So from washing, preparing, cutting, and styling the hair, to consulting and building clients, to knowing the science of hairdressing and psychology of your clients, we have covered it all at MADE. Education has always been an important factor for me as my own barbering education was non-existent back in the 90s and the only form of barbershop was the conveyer belt where standards were poor and haircuts were rushed for a low price. I had to ﬁgure a lot of the skills out for myself, which in hindsight was no bad thing really. As the years have went by especially since 2010 the UK standards have increased tenfold with our industry set to grow and improve much, much further over the coming years. It was around this time where I became acquainted with James Beattie and Foxy when we collaborated and formed the B.O.M.B. squad a team of barbers with a passion to help to make our industry better by demonstrating on stage all over the world our combined skills and knowledge to young budding barbers. These

days it seems that there is a lot of people out there giving their own take on how it should be done and there is now a wealth of barbering educators in the UK offering all sorts of courses and workshops that give the promise of training that will provide you with the skills needed to make it in the industry. Like in any other profession there is no quick fire way of getting from zero to hero and without the right attitude of getting your sleeves rolled up and taking yourself out of your comfort zone and into the fire you will always come up short. If you’re one of the many unsatisfied with your current career path who feel the need for change, you might already have a job or career that pays well but doesn’t leave you feeling content and satisfied or you might have just been messing about with different jobs aimlessly trying to find something that gives you a real buzz, but whatever your starting point the same rules apply - you have to feel the fear and do it anyway. Before you take the plunge and invest a significant amount of your hard earned cash in your future by selecting one of the many courses on offer be sure that you’ve given it plenty of thought. Talking it over with friends and family and be sure you want to commit as it can be a heavy investment if your heart is not truly in it. That being said once you’ve trained and found your feet in your new environment the investment can be quickly retrieved as more men than ever before are wanting to spend time and money on their appearance and if you keep high standards you will always be busy living a great lifestyle with a healthy bank balance. Ask yourself what kind of barbering route you want to follow? In my mind there are two schools of thought here. The conveyer belt or professional barber. I believe there will be many more professional barber shops opening and the conveyer belts will be much fewer in the future simply because men in general want a better service. So learning good standards and philosophy are the keys to your foundation. Barbering is a fantastic career path these days within a growing industry set to continue for many years to come. How many can say the love getting up in the morning to go to their work? With very few tools you can travel the world armed with your skills plying your trade or settle in a cool barbershop that suits your style with the intent to build a loyal client bank that will give you a fruitful and successful future. Education is key. Choose well. Be creative. Best of luck. So that’s us for this issue. Till next time, be the best you can be.

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@hurleybarbering @hurleybarbering BarberNV Magazine | 75

Coach Chris

Innovate or die. Find new ways of telling old stories. After 25 years in the game, Chris Foster is turning his attention to helping the next generation of barber find their way in an industry that is more crowded than ever. By changing the way they think about barbering as a whole, he hopes to coach barbers to think beyond their current limited scope. “A lot of barbers at the moment are so enthralled in the artistry of being a barber and they aren’t realising they need to think about creating a legacy,” Chris explained. “Because we are so trained to cut hair and run a column we don’t think of the bigger picture.” There’s few people in the industry with a reputation as impressive as Chris’s. As one of the founding members of the Wahl Artistic Team, Chris has always been a step ahead of most of his peers. He has educated around the world, be it Russia or the Mauritius, teaching barbers not only how to cut hair to the best of their abilities but also how they can ensure their careers are as prosperous as possible. That’s the theory behind his new venture which will see him take on barbers for ninemonth spells that will see them learn Chris’s method for success on his One Program. He said: “What I’m doing is coaching people to understand that their skills are highly valued. They have information that they can monetise but some guys just don’t know how to do it. Because I’ve been doing it for 25 years I’ve got that experience.

“If you want to work abroad or create an internet persona you have to show up a certain way. You have to spend money on shots, on models, and guys don’t know this. That’s because barbers don’t have the Sassoons, the Charles Worthingtons, they are still one man bands. “Hairdressers feel they can charge what they want to some degree but barbers have a very limited belief. I want them to think differently – how can I get my clients on a subscription and if I don’t have them on a subscription basis can I get them regularly?” It’s this that Chris intends to bring to the barbers that he takes under his wing. Using a variety of different techniques, under Chris’s coaching barbers will find themselves adding value to their personal brand in a number of ways. “No one is teaching barbers how to make money while they sleep – a passive income. My program teaches social media presentation skills, how to present, how to get an audience; and that’s all from my experience of working on TV. “I take them on a journey. The reason it’s nine-months is because it’s taking action. I’m there as a coach trying to get them to take action. Too many barbers swap time for money, we need to change the equation.” Chris’s course promises to leave barbers as the finished article, ready to take on not just their next client, but the next stage in their professional development.

Check out our social media for a chance to win some mentorship with Chris! Star Pupil Sam Wall is the current American Crew All Star winner from the UK and he is a testament to the benefit of Chris’s guidance. “I worked one to one with him,” said Chris, “helped him build his brand and his brand identity. He’s such a likeable guy but all these things need to be put into place. You can spend 20 years trying to figure it out or we can do a program helping people get to where they want to get to.”

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EducatorNV

Chris Foster

Johnny Knoxville

A NEW ERA of male grooming

Michael Fassbender Darren Criss

Steph Curry

ook around the page for a list of some of the celebs Sydney Sollod has groomed in her time.

Hollywood stars have long embraced the power of facial treatments, moisturising regimes, and even makeup, but it’s taken the general public a long time to follow suit. Now that barbers are finding men more willing than ever to put some effort into all parts of their appearance, there are new opportunities to add to your services and increase your income.

“At the very least, cleanse, moisturise, and always use sunscreen daily,” she says. “Those three are the most important. For the more adventurous man, add in a gentle exfoliating wash once or twice a week.”

Chances are you’ll be familiar with face masks at least, with the likes of Barber Pro introducing popular ones into the market in the past year, and Sydney is a strong believer in them. “I’m a big fan of face masks,” she tells us,

A key part of Sydney’s job hasn’t quite caught on yet here in the UK – male make-up. We maybe can’t imagine men asking for makeup help as they sit in the barber chair just yet, but with the way things are going is it not just a matter of time? Sydney is already beginning to see regular men using it for special events. She says: “I’ve had many clients reach out to me before a date or a last minute event with a blemish or dark circles from a late night and are in desperate need of beauty help. I think it would be wonderful if we get to a point one day where a man can walk into a shop and get their hair and make-up done. Everyone wants to feel their best, so why not?” Time to invest in some lessons, barbers?

5sos

You may well find it’s easier than ever to

Many barbers won’t have the knowledge themselves to pass on to their clients so Sydney recommends “stopping by local spas and skincare clinics to talk to as many professionals as possible. Also go into the marketplace and try all the products you can – trial is ultimately the best way to know what really works and what you like about them.”

“especially eye masks which I use a lot on my clients. They’re quick and very effective for making clients look wide awake. I like to start with an eye mask and while it’s working I can style their hair. My favourite masks are by Rodial.”

Alex Turner

As a barber client consultation is as vital a part of your job as cutting hair, and Sydney believes there’s a few simple facial steps you should be advising your clients on.

convince your customers to engage with a daily skincare routine as Sydney says she has “noticed a rise in men asking questions and wanting to learn how to take care of their skin. More and more of my clients are getting facials, which is a great surprise. Facials a few times a year do wonders for your skin and are great for anti-ageing.”

Cameron Dallas

Scott Foley

Taylor Lautner

John Mulaney

Jared Leto

Tommy Hilfiger

David Beckham Ryan Murphy

Josh Gad

Jeff Goldblum

Bob Odenkirk

Idris Elba

Elijah Wood

Jason Segel

Dan Stevens

Brandon Ingram

Patrick Schwarzenegger

John Legend

James McAvoy

Zac Efron

Connor McGregor

Ryan Reynolds

AestheticNV

Micropigmentation This spring, we are delighted to bring yet another in-demand service to the Medical & Cosmetic Centre; micropigmentation from Scottish specialist, Moya Wren. But while many of you may think that micropigmentation is a service designed for females, we’re seeing rising demand from our male patients looking to cheat full, masculine brows like David Gandy, George Clooney, or Jared Leto – and here is where Moya and her micropigmentation magic can help. With over thirty years’ experience in the industry, Moya is usually based at her clinic in Glasgow, but will be joining the Medical & Cosmetic Centre here in Edinburgh on a regular basis to see to our patients too. Micropigmentation is also known as semi-permanent makeup, but don’t let this put you off – Moya’s artistry and expert touch will ensure that your results are natural and believable, with nobody suspecting that you’re anything but naturally handsome.

But how does it all work? Micropigmentation is the process of applying micro-insertions of pigment, directly into the dermal layer of the skin. Artists will use a specially-designed digital machine, controlled with a sterile probe, and work carefully with each client to create a bespoke finished look that’s as natural-looking as possible. The process is very similar to conventional tattooing, in that it’s a semi-invasive procedure, but crucially, micropigmentation is far less traumatic in application, and fades over time, which allows you to change your look. The results will remain visible for a certain period of time, often determined by your skin type, age, and lifestyle, and will require maintenance and a colour refresh to keep a defined look. Exactly how long the results will last differs from person to person, as many factors need to be taken into account, such as skin type and choice of skincare. The procedure and colour choices also make a difference; for example, if you have fair hair, your lighter-toned eyebrows will require a more frequent colour top-up than darker-haired men. Sun worshippers will also see their colours fade quicker due to UV light (another strong reason to stay out of the sun!). But overall, the expectation can be anywhere between six months and five years. For both men and women, the most popular micropigmentation treatment by far is eyebrow tattooing. Full, thick brows for women have been a major trend for a few years now, spurred on by the likes of Cara Delevingne and Lily Collins, but men are catching up to the possibilities open to them outside of traditional male grooming. Men are now becoming more comfortable with the idea that these kinds of treatments are available, and celebrities such as David Gandy and Jared Leto have opened the doors to being proud of your grooming regime, instead of seeing it as something to hide away. And that ethos has now spread beyond skincare; with the men’s grooming market now worth over £1billion, men’s eyes have firmly been opened to the idea that these procedures can help them look great and feel confident at all times. Brow tattooing sounds like a scary procedure for men taking their first steps into aesthetics, but in the hands of an expert like Moya, they can be assured that their brows will be bespoke and as natural-looking as possible. In fact, micropigmentation can help create a brow that’s more masculine than the natural brows. Moya specialises in an ‘eyebrow boosting’ technique, and works to create super natural, soft lines that perfectly mimic the flow and structure of a real eyebrow, adding in sculpture and fullness where nature didn’t quite hit the mark. The key to a natural-looking eyebrow is all about tailoring to the individual, taking into account face shape, skin tone and hair colour to create a strong, bespoke brow. Moya understands that many men may be hesitant about taking the leap and so offers a selection of techniques which clients can choose from, to be confident in creating a brow that’s perfect for them. The ‘Hairstroke’ technique (sometimes referred to as the ‘brushstroke’ or ‘featherstroke’) is the most natural and realistic option, mimicking realistic hair growth and helping men achieve full, thick, masculine brows that still look slick and groomed. The ‘Powdered’ technique offers a shaded effect, giving a full colour to the brow area and creating a bold finished look. For a subtler style, the ‘Ombre’ creates a gradual colour at the bulb of the brow, leading into a bold, defined tail. Finally, the ‘Combination’ option offers the best of both worlds, blending the ‘Hairstroke’ and ‘Powdered’ techniques to create a full, natural-looking brow. As part of the brow offering, digital microblading is also available, which uses digital technology and micropigmentation to update the traditional hand method of microblading. Performed with a handheld device, this method produces colour implantation in the skin and creates lifelike strokes that mimic the look of natural eyebrows. It is crucial to remember that, as with aesthetics, the result will only ever be as good as the technician performing the procedure. At the Medical Cosmetic Centre, we pride ourselves on hiring the finest staff and trained specialist doctors, and our ethos has been no different with this expansion to our services. Moya Wren is widely renowned as being among the very best in the business, so you’ll be in safe and trusted hands. But it is key to remember that whoever you choose to visit for your micropigmentation and eyebrow tattooing, they should be able to present to you an extensive knowledge in this very specialised field, along with all of the appropriate qualifications. Semi-permanent makeup and micropigmentation should be carried out by an artist to ensure the best and most natural-looking results.

Words: Dr Nestor

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Moya Wren will be available for consultations at the Medical Cosmetic Centre, prices start from £495 for brows and lips. For more information, visit www.drnestor.co.uk.

AestheticNV

The ELXR of Life

Hi everybody! Welcome to Dr Nick’s man cave of aesthetic medicine, ELXR Aesthetics in Manchester. After one too many trips to female beauty parlours – to accompany his brother the bodybuilder, of course – Dr Nick decided that men needed their own space for aesthetic procedures, and armed with a medical degree, he set about making it happen. But unlike his namesake from The Simpsons, this Dr Nick went about it rather intelligently. He teamed up with Alex Shore of Close Male Grooming, and turned the space underneath the popular barbershop into ELXR. Dr Nick admits the link-up has been fantastic. “It’s benefitted us both tremendously,” he tells us. “A lot of guys coming through the barbershop hear what we are offering downstairs and are immediately interested – though we never hard sell it. Overall it makes sense: the same guys who care enough about their hair to take the time and pay the money to go to a high end barber are of then the same guys who care about their health and facial appearance.” Dr Nick hasn’t strayed far from the tried and test old school barbershop aesthetic in designing ELXR meaning you instantly feel at home when you enter, unlike any beauty parlour before.

surgeries) would look. Either that or an S&M dungeon…” Thankfully you come out of ELXR looking and feeling much better than you do after a night in an S&M dungeon (we’d assume…). Treatments on offer at the moment include IV drips (of which you can partake while getting your haircut), intramuscular booster shoots, botox to help soften wrinkles, medical-grade chemical peels, filler treatment for facial sculpting, and medcial treatments for hair loss. Further down the line you can expect to pop into ELXR for fat dissolving injections for double chin reduction and eventually hair transplantation. It’s proving to be a winner with most of Dr Nick’s clients coming back for repeat visits. He offers a number of reasons for that including the fact the treatments give a truly noticeable effect, that ELXR offers a flat rate for both men and women unlike other clinics who try to charge men more, and of course that it’s a comfortable environment to enter. The fact that the men of Manchester are fiercely proud of their appearance is surely also a factor. Currently ELXR only has its current Manchester clinic but its success means that more branches around the UK are likely. Dr Nick says: “The main plan for the future is to expand our services and our shops to other major cities which share a similar culture to Manchester in regards to male grooming (Glasgow perhaps?).” As it’s the home of BarberNV, we certainly hope so!

He explains: “Basically I wanted an old gentleman’s club like feel to the clinic, something completely different to the vast majority of clinics I’ve seen or worked in which are either generic and androgynous or effeminate. We’ve got the clinic chair (in black of course) in a sunken platform in the middle of the room, surrounded by oxblood panelling. This creates the effect of an old surgical theatre, where people could watch the procedures from the outside. “Overall the place looks like how I imagine an old barbershop (the original

BarberNV Magazine | 79

11 Ways To Get The Most From Your Apprenticeship Being an apprentice in any industry is hard work. Research shows young people are leaving their apprenticeship before they are qualified – and recruitment into the hair industry is at an all-time low. In fact, more than 20% of salons in the UK have vacancies they can’t fill. So it’s never been a better time to be a hairdressing apprentice. The pace of training may be frustrating, but there are simple ways to ensure you enjoy your time as a salon apprentice, and ultimately become a confident and professional stylist. TONI&GUY international creative director, Cos Sakkas, gives his advice on making your apprenticeship work for you.

Find out more about Cos Sakkas: www.toniandguy.com Instagram: @cossakkas

1. Take advantage of as much education as you can. Regular training in the salon is free so grab it with both hands. Trade exhibitions such as Salon International offer free shows on various stages where you will see the latest trends and techniques being presented by some of the most talented teams in the industry. 2. Events such as Barber Connect, Hair Club Live, and Fellowship for British Hairdressing are an informal way to watch inspiring names present their new collections and styles in an up-close-and-personal format. Hair Club Live is held in cool, trendy places where you can see up-and-coming hairdressers for just £5. It’s all about having fun while you learn. 3. Make sure your training programme has got a timeline and a structure so you can see your progress. 4. Ensure you learn as many techniques as you can – you want to grow into a confident and competent hairdresser who can work on all aspects of hairdressing, not just what is popular now. You need to learn all the foundations in cutting, colouring and styling so you never have to turn away a client. 5. Training often means repeating the same technique over and over again, so to prevent getting bored, approach it in a different way. Work on different textures and lengths and be as varied as you can. This will mean you can work on all hair types and will keep the training interesting. 6. Understand what your goals are and how to achieve them. 7. Keep focused on the end result – to become a qualified hairdresser. 8. If your team are doing anything outside working hours make sure you volunteer to take part. 9. Approach the hairdresser you admire the most in the salon and offer to assist them as often as you can. Watch the techniques they use, ask them for advice and interact with them whenever possible. Having a mentor will aspire and inspire you. 10. Build relationships with stylists in the salon so you feel like an assistant rather than floating around waiting to be asked. 11. Watch as much as you can when you are in the salon – it’s amazing how much you learn by just watching other people.

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Alan Beak - Barber Birdman - Leah Hayden Cassidy Jarred Barbers Josh Lamonaca - Josh O.P. - Julius CVESAR

Hosted by Kevin Luchmun

9th Of September 2018 Castello Di Santa Severa

A showcase of the best barbers from Europe & U.S.A. Big Exposition of the massive brand new trends and new techniques Created and Organised by

For information on tickets email: contact@salonnv.co.uk