BarberNV Issue 21

BARBERNV ISSUE 21

BARBER

NV

Leah Hayden Cassidy Dรกlery Vivanco Gemma Willock-Smith Samantha Lloyd Toastie Styles

WINTER 2019

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CONTENTS

I S S U E 21 News

06

44

OS Barbers

Revolutionary care

09

49

Females in the industry

Fellowship

10

64

Giving the best consultations

Books by kids

12

66

Barbering and mental health

Gillette

16

72

Emily Lemay

LFWM

20

74

Chris Foster

Products

32

76

Sam Wall

Takara Belmont

36

82

Instagram showcase

Aldwyn & Sons

43

84

New to e-chair.com

Editor’s Comment March 8th is International Women’s Day, and BarberNV wanted to highlight and celebrate some of the successful female barbers in our industry. We spoke to Hayden Cassidy, Gemma Willock-Smith, Toastie Styles, Samantha Lloyd, and Dálery Vivanco about their careers to date and what they’ll be doing in 2019 to up their game further.

We’re also celebrating the very best in the charitable work barbers are doing, with Mark Reynolds, owner of Revolution Barbers in Kirkaldy, collecting clothes, raising money, and cutting hair for the homeless charity Crisis.

Stateside, City Cuts in Kutztown, Pennsylvania have set up an incredible initiative to rid children of their fear of public speaking. Videos of their initiative in action have been viewed on social media millions of times.

Gillette has caused a massive online and media controversy with their latest ad campaign, We Believe. We took a look at what’s been said and give our

verdict on their new ‘woke’ approach to selling razors.

For the more fashion forward out there, we took a look at some of the best runway looks at this year’s London Fashion Week Men’s, the products behind the looks and the inspiration that got the artistic teams there.

Sam Wall gives us a rundown on his time in Canada for the Community Barber Show, and Chris Foster tells us why passion just isn’t enough. All of that, as well as all the features, news, and product recommendations you’ve come to expect from BarberNV.

Enjoy!

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JOSE URRUTIA

70’S COLLECTION Hair: Jose Urrutia Photographer: Jose Urrutia Stylism: Karmen Ramírez Retoucher: Javier Villalabeitia 4 | BarberNV Magazine

Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Matthew McLaughlin | Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Manager Kat Heron Front Cover Jose Urrutia Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Chris Foster and Sam Wall | Thanks Sam Wall, Chris Foster, Jon Escueta, Mark Reynolds, Alan Findlay, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Denis Robinson, Fudge, R+Co, Revlon, Crazy Colour, Scott McKie, Tetsuya Ito, Emily Lemay, Leah, Hayden Cassidy, Samantha Lloyd, Dalery Vivanco, Toastie Style, Gemma Willock-Smith, LWPR, Essence PR, OS Barbers.

Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 5 Newton Place, Glasgow G3 7PR | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallus Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Š Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS BOOKSY PARTNERS WITH RESERVE WITH GOOGLE

Seamless booking from Google to Booksy business is now available, generating more business for Booksy’s health, hair, and beauty professionals in the UK and the Republic of Ireland.

SEB MAN PARTNERS WITH THE BOOK OF MAN ‘FESTIVAL OF NEW MASCULINITY’ SEB MAN, the new male grooming range from Sebastian Professional, has announced a partnership with The Book of Man’s Festival of New Masculinity— happening between January and March in London.

make them who they are being trapped in ‘the man box is over’,” Says Mark Sandford from The Book of Man.

Digital platform, The Book of Man, exists to explore the inner lives of men with the ultimate objective of encouraging them to open up.

“We are delighted to be working with SEB MAN who share our values by redefining the way brands should be talking to men.

All ticket proceeds from the festival will go to male suicide prevention charity CALM. Each event is curated to highlight and discuss the challenges facing men today and will be an era-capturing celebration of new thinking around men.

It fits perfectly with the SEB MAN philosophy of the undefinable man, of men who refuse to be categorised.

“On The Book of Man we acknowledge that men cannot be defined by one thing, but a whole host of things that

He continued: “Men come in many forms shapes, and sizes with a whole heap of emotions—and it’s time we all realised this.

“Not only are their values intrinsically linked to ours, but they also have groundbreaking products that make men feel good rather than just look good.”

The events partnered by SEB MAN are: ‘WHAT IS THE FUTURE OF MEN?’— PANEL DISCUSSION, 3 February at Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen.

SELF-CARE SUNDAY, 10 February at The Book Club.

SELF-CARE SUNDAY, 10 March at The Book Club Shoreditch.

PLANS TO STAMP OUT EXPLOITATION OF LOW PAID WORKED ANNOUNCED, SAY NHF/ NBF The government has released their response to the Labour Market Enforcement Strategy recommendations—published in May 2018.

The response accepts many of the recommendations, including a package of measures designed to crack down on employers who deliberately exploit or underpay their workers.

NHF/NBF chief executive, Hilary Hall said: “It’s encouraging to see the government calling the enforcement agencies to provide more support for ‘good employers’, especially those who have asked for

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Booksy, the top-rated booking, business management, and lead generation software for the health and beauty industry is proud to announce the launch of a new booking option in partnership with Google.

After a successful rollout in the US, this new solution integrating Booksy bookings with Reserve with Google will now be available in the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland.

Reserve with Google allows the user to book directly through Google’s search engine, improving the ease of making appointments for clients and professionals—increasing client conversions from those simply browsing into actual bookings. Partnerships such as this are a core part of Booksy’s work to support businesses and improve their clients’ experience.

Research shows the most frequent use of Google’s search engine by clients is to check opening times and addresses. Now when clients search for hair and beauty professionals in their area, they can directly book in without having to go through another website. All bookings made through Reserve with Google arrive at the merchants’ Booksy account, the same as any regular appointment.

The partnership comes with a number of feature updates including deposits and pre-payments and Instagram booking which are designed to transform the experience and work/life balance of Booksy users.

Booksy was one of the first companies to integrate book buttons with other popular platforms such as Instagram, Facebook, and Yelp. With their presence on Reserve with Google, Booksy continues to allow clients to book where they look for suggestions of health, hair, and beauty professionals.

Chief product officer for Booksy, Konrad Howard said: “Booksy now allows users to take appointments not only from Facebook and Instagram, but also from Google, the most popular search engine ever. No other system like Booksy can boast that they’ve been chosen by so many leaders of the tech world.”

advice to ensure they comply with the law.

“The report promises improved guidance on the National Minimum Wage/National Living Wage, particularly for problem areas such as pay averaging.”

The naming and shaming scheme will include the average arrears per worker for each named employer, and case studies will be provided to raise awareness of the reasons for underpayment within specific sectors.

To give greater transparency on rates of pay, it has already been announced that legislation will come into effect in April 2019 requiring pay slips to be provided for all workers and for hourly paid workers, pay slips must include the total hours worked and the hourly rate of pay.

Other measures include legislation to: • Give new powers to HMRC to enforce holiday pay and recover holiday pay arrears.

• Require employers to provide a statement of

principal rights for workers on day one of starting employment.

• Tackle ‘phoenixing’ where directors dissolve companies to avoid paying penalties and to improve the chances of workers being paid what they are owed.

The government has partially rejected a recommendation from the Labour Market Strategy to pilot a licensing scheme to tackle modern slavery in nail bars.

Instead, the Gangmasters and Labour Abuse Authority (GLAA) will carry out a scoping exercise, likely to be in Greater Manchester, to measure the “scale, nature, and threat of modern slavery in nail bars” and whether a licensing scheme would help to stamp out organised crime groups who exploit workers with threats, debt bondage, and withhold travel documents to control workers.

WINSDOR BARBERS’ ALEX PANOS WINS BARBER OF THE YEAR AT NHF AWARDS At only 23 years of age, Alex Panos, originally from Valencia, Spain has won the prestigious Barber of the Year Award at the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF) Awards.

The NHF is the UK’s largest trade association for hairdressing, barbering, and beauty salon owners—celebrating the best in the hair and beauty businesses.

At a glittering ceremony in Cardiff, nominees and guests were welcomed with a sparkling reception, a red-carpet black-tie dinner, and a showcase of some of the previous winners’ work.

AKITO SCISSORS LAUNCH FUNDRAISING CAMPAIGN FOR PARALYSED MIDSOMER NORTON STYLIST Akito Scissors has launched a campaign to help raise £56,000 towards revolutionary epidural stimulation treatment for Mitch Chalmers, a paralysed stylist.

In 2014 a motocross accident left Mitch paralysed from the waist down.

Through sheer determination, Mitch has since re-trained and pursued his dream of becoming a hairdresser—with the aid of a stand-up wheelchair. He

Then came the big announcements of the night as the ceremony crowned this year’s winners—where Alex of Windsor Barbers, Cardiff scooped the coveted NHF Barber of the Year.

now works full-time as a stylist at James Christopher Hairdressing in Midsomer Norton.

Akito Scissors are planning several fundraising events throughout 2019 and would welcome fellow hairdressers and barbers to get involved and back the charity effort.

Akito ambassador, Ben Brown, has donated his original pair of Akito F-2 black 5” scissors—purchased in 2017.

These scissors have been seen in Ben’s educational videos, which have over 4 million views.

These scissors will be auctioned off on Sunday, 3 February between 7-8pm GMT via Akito Scissors’ Twitter (@ akitoscissors). www.gofundme.com/lets-get-mitchwalking-fiddy1

JONATHAN ANDREWS IS FUDGE PROFESSIONAL’S NEW GLOBAL AMBASSADOR Fudge Professional has announced hairdressing’s hottest young talent, Jonathan Andrew, as a new global ambassador.

Jonathan exemplifies a new generation of British hairdressing, seeing expertise combined with energy and a new outlook on the ever-changing hair and beauty landscape.

Jonathan has worked with celebrities including Lottie Moss, Little Mix, and Olly Murs, and his red-carpet styling is in A-list demand at major media events like the BAFTAs, the BRIT Awards, and the National Television Awards.

Editorially, Jonathan has styled for shoots with the likes of ELLE and Vogue, has worked with renowned photographer Rankin, and on many music video and music artist campaigns.

Jonathan’s London Fashion Week credentials include collaborations with runway designers David Koma, Sass & Bide, and Maria Grachvogel.

Alex said: “It’s a great honour to receive this award. And it’s a testament to the professionalism and skill of all those at Windsor Barbers.

“The training I’ve received there has been the best in the business. I’m proud and delighted it’s been recognised with this award.”

The people of Wales were able to vote for their selected business from a list of nominees drawn up by an expert panel of judges.

NHF president, Agnes Leonard said: “The number of entries we received exceeded all of our expectations, as did the number of votes we received from the people of Wales who selected which business they wanted to win.

“Winning an NHF Welsh Award is a huge achievement for a hair and beauty business, so we would like to congratulate all of our winners for their hard work and determination—we hope that their businesses continue to thrive as a result.”

Needless to say, Paul Harris, director of Windsor Barbers is delighted with the recognition Alex, and the salon has received.

“All of us at Windsor Barbers would like to congratulate Alex on winning Barber of the Year.

“His hard work has paid off, and he should be proud of what he’s achieved.

“Alex came to us two years ago and has gone from strength to strength in that time.”

His charisma and confidence in media-facing roles come from a wealth of experience in television, working on shows like Celebrity Juice, This Morning, and on the creative team for the X-Factor.

Jonathan’s 12-year-long career has seen him work with household names like L’Oreal, ghd, and Schwarzkopf, holding positions such as artistic director for Matrix and ambassador for Biolage.

These experiences have seen Jonathan carve a path as an industry leader, travelling the globe showcasing his talent to thousands of hairdressers and influencers, helping to educate his peers in numerous skills and techniques.

things already planned for 2019, Jonathan’s star continues to rise—so watch this space!”

Senior Brand Manager at Fudge Professional, Emma Bate said: “We’re beyond excited to be working with Jonathan—his creativity and charisma are unparalleled within the industry’s younger generation of hairdressers and represent everything Fudge stands for.

“It is such a fun, exciting brand with a truly creative and passionate team and one that I’m so excited to be joining.

“He has amassed a huge amount of experience in his career so far, and we’re incredibly excited to utilise his know-how and credibility across the brand, from product innovation to campaign direction and global education.

“With numerous awards and plenty of exciting

On his appointment, Jonathan said: “I’m so thrilled to be partnering with Fudge Professional as the new Global Brand Ambassador.

“This is a huge achievement for me in my career and I’m overwhelmed by the commitment and support that Fudge has shown me.

“The brand has so many values close to my heart, and I can’t wait to get started working on the new campaigns, products, and education developments.

“2019 is going to be an incredible year!”

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THOMAS MICHAELS PARTNERS WITH ANDY’S MAN CLUB A Huddersfield-based manufacturer of male grooming products has partnered with mental health charity, Andy’s Man Club to launch its new year campaign, Strive for Original.

The campaign will see Thomas Michaels donate 15% of each product sold online over the next two months to the Halifax-based charity.

Founded in 2015, Thomas Michaels specialises in skincare, haircare, hairstyling, and home fragrance products for males. The firm is committed to providing products that are cruelty-free and naturally scented with luxury oils.

A father-son team, Thomas Michaels approached Andy’s Man Club in 2018 after seeing the impactful work the charity conducts locally and nationally.

Founder of Thomas Michaels, Thom Royle said: “We have always admired the work of Andy’s Man Club. Mental health is such an important subject that really needs addressing. As both a business owner and a male, I feel it is my duty to use the platform I have been given to spread the word about sharing and talking about our mental health and asking for support when we need it.”

Andy’s Man Club was formed in early 2016 by Halifax rugby league player Luke Ambler after his brother-in-law took his own life. The group, which has now spread from Yorkshire to Lancashire, aims to raise awareness of mental health issues among young men.

Thomas Michael’s Strive for Original campaign seeks to address the rising pressure among millennials to compete with one another on social media platforms. Through this campaign, the firm is hoping to encourage its customers to embrace their originality and feel confident as we enter a new year.

Andrew Greenway, project development at Andy’s Man Club said: “We currently have 17 groups across the UK, allowing any man over 18 to come along and talk in a non-judgemental, peer to peer environment. All of our groups are run by volunteers and have no cost, all of the sessions rely on donations to run, so for Thomas Michaels to offer help out in this way is great.

“Also, with them offering products to men it’s a great opportunity for us to spread awareness and reach out to as many men as possible to let them know there is somewhere out there and that #ITSOKAYTOTALK.”

THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE ANNOUNCES 2019 AMBASSADORS

INTERSERVE CERTIFIED AS WAHL MEN’S METHOD UK TRAINING PROVIDER

The first training provider awarded this status, a significant addition to its existing portfolio and to the services available to salons and apprentices alike.

Already delivering successful barbering and hair professional apprenticeships, Interserve will now offer the Wahl Men’s Method programme to clients across the UK as a key part of this provision.

Speaking of the collaboration, Wahl UK’s Global artistic director Simon Shaw said: “The Men’s Method is the most elite training programme for barbers and men’s hairdressers in the UK, and we will only want to work with and accept the very, very best in terms of providers.

“The Wahl brand is prestigious, so we are careful about who we let use the name, but we feel that Interserve has what it takes to join us and to deliver this exclusive programme as part of their barbering apprenticeship.

“We’re looking forward to seeing the impact this will have on the hundreds of learners and their salon employers who

“Having the Wahl Men’s Method Certificate in addition to an industry recognised apprenticeship will not only make the barbers of tomorrow more employable, but set them up with the fundamental support and skills required to succeed in their careers.

“Wahl is a huge name in the world of barbering, so to be working with a brand with such heritage is a great honour.”

Since 1919, with the invention of the first practical electric hair clipper, Wahl has been the leader in the professional and home grooming category.

Today, with over 1,500 employees worldwide, its products are sold in approximately 165 countries with six global manufacturing facilities as well as eleven sales offices.

Interserve Learning & Employment provide first-class skills, education, and employment services across a wide range of sectors and professions.

Its team offers flexible, tailored support to young people and adults from all walks of life, including school leavers and employees who seek career development.

ILE helps tens of thousands of people a year embark on training or jobs, which have a positive impact on wider communities and local economies.

pleasure to have them on board making us even stronger as we stride into 2019, our most exciting year yet!

The list of ambassadors includes both well-known industry names and barbers who haven’t been in the media before, but have an affiliation with LBC.

“If you want to be part of the pride you can head to our website and complete the BarberTalk Lite for free to get your certificate and placement on our Lion’s map”

Suicide is the biggest killer of men under 45—Tom, who is in the process of developing BarberTalk training to equip barbers with the tools to listen, recognise, and signpost their clients and provide safe spaces for men to open up and offload.

Tom Chapman said: “The growth we have experience in the past 12-months has been astonishing.

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“Our training specialists will all be Wahl endorsed and benefit from ongoing CPD from Wahl’s global artistic director, Simon Shaw.

With more lions in the pride, their reach can stretch further and save more lives—never forgetting we’re stronger together.

All of the ambassadors have been impacted by mental health throughout their lives, and are excited to begin 2019 as official ambassadors.

With a growing demand for the LBC and worldwide media success, Tom and his colleagues began searching for ambassadors to raise further awareness and support through fundraising.

Amber Massey, ILE’s head of sector for hair, beauty & barbering, said: “ILE will now be offering one of the top training programmes in the world to hair professionals.

Interserve Learning & Employment (ILE) has launched a new barber training programme as part of its apprenticeship delivery after being awarded UK training provider status

by Wahl, the international leader in the manufacture of products for the professional male grooming and salon trade.

The Lions Barber Collective, an initiative founded by Tom Chapman, is a charity that raises awareness of mental health in men.

So far, the Lions Barber Collective has saved the lives of men by preventing suicide and offering support to both clients and barbers alike.

will benefit from this highest standard of education.”

“The passion and drive from the industry has really blown me away, barbers have realised how privileged we are and how important our role is within our communities.

“The barbers who have joined the pride as our first ambassadors have either shown outstanding support, had personal experience with mental health and suicide, or have given a lot of time and energy to the cause already.

“I want to recognise that hard work and it is a huge

Introducing the lineup: Sam Wall - Newcastle Stacey Ayles - Weymouth Connor Evans - Coventry Dan Davies - London Lesley Macbain - Liverpool Darren Birch - Warwick, Leicester Tommie Mcguckin - Scotland Ken Hermes - London Mark Loftin - Exmouth Jac Ludlow - Wales/Norway www.thelionsbarbercollective.com

REVOLUTIONARY CARE MARK REYNOLDS

Mark Reynolds, the Californian-born owner of Revolution Barbershop in Kirkcaldy spent his Christmas and boxing day giving fifty haircuts to the homeless in Edinburgh.

Every Christmas since his arrival in Edinburgh five-years-ago, Mark has volunteered with the homeless charity Crisis. When he first arrived in Edinburgh it was November, Mark had considered going to Dublin, where he had previously travelled, or back home to California—instead he decided to volunteer.

He told BarberNV: “All I did was Google ‘volunteer’. I thought I would just work in a soup kitchen with a hairnet or something, but the first one said ‘barber needed’. Christmas day and boxing day are their busiest days and they couldn’t get anybody to volunteer and cut hair. So, I did it... and I did it for the next five years.”

Now in his fifth year volunteering with Crisis, Mark decided to run a clothes drive. Which proved to be a massive success as people donated a total of 120 bags worth of clothing for Crisis.

Mark said: “I thought I was going to fill up my little Toyota with quality, donated clothes—it turned out we needed a whole trailer. A lot of this stuff had designer labels on it, people were really generous. All I did was make one message on Facebook asking if anyone had a big-ass truck?”

A simple haircut can change a lot about a person’s self-confidence, making them feel better about themselves. But Mark isn’t the only professional giving his time to improve the lives of others.

He said: “They come to me for a haircut, there’s a dentist there, a

doctor there, a nutritionist there and everyone’s volunteering. So, it’s not just me cutting hair, it’s a whole operation—that’s why I’m so passionate about it.”

Not content with simply collecting clothing and donating his time, Mark set up an online appeal through Crisis—raising over £1,000 for the organisation.

“I got a little bit out of my comfort zone this year and I raised money through Crisis. They asked me if I wanted to try and raise £1,000, and we did it. We raised £1,025!

“The £1,000 only came from about 30 or 40 people, where I thought it was going to be a little from a bunch of people.

“We had a great year at Revolution, so it was a no-brainer to give back.”

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Fellowship News

The BARBER PROJECT The Barber Project is the Fellowship’s newest launch and will help a talented team of new barbers and men’s hairdressers hone their skills in this profitable and growing market.

Edward Hemmings is the team leader for this debut team, who have an exciting year ahead of inspiring mentor classes.

The 2019 team has now been announced, with six stylists from across the country now set to hone their barbering skills with a full calendar of mentoring and education sessions.

This new project is aimed at hairdressers looking to improve their barbering skills, those looking to make a move into the field, or newly-qualified barbers looking to work with, and learn from the best in the industry.

Over the course of the year, students will cover all aspects of men’s hairdressing, through to the core barbering skills of clipper work and wet-shaving. The project will build up to stage time at Salon International in October. The provisional calendar includes an introductory session, barber cuts workshop, clipper workshop, beard and shave workshop, presentation and fashion skills workshop, all taught by experts and with press exposure.

Barbering is big business, with men spending an average of £779 per year on treatments and services (up 9% on the previous year) according to Salon Services’ most recent Beautiful Britain Survey.

But while services might be growing, there is still work to be done in the skills department—which is where the Fellowship steps in.

Barber Project mentor, Johnny Baba said: “The trend of barbering is at its highest, but the craft of barbering is at an all-time low.”

With the launch of the project, the Fellowship hopes to help celebrate the mastery of the craft and help create a new generation of inspiring barbers.

And the debut team are...

Ainsley Brown, F&M Hairdressing Luke Hawkins, The Marvellous Hair Co Portia McVinnie, KJM Salons Sarah Morrissey, Sarai Hair & Beauty Blayre Turnbull, Urban Hair & Beauty Highhouse Rob White, Nashwhite

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The 2019 Barber Project team with team leader, Edward Hemmings, and day one mentor, Matt Gavin from Ruffians.

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s 2019 Barber Project team has undertaken their first training day of the year.

As the men’s hairdressing industry continues to grow and flourish, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing is celebrating all things men’s hair with the launch of its Barber Project for 2019.

The Fellowship is renowned for its projects, which provide education, exposure, and opportunities for their members.

Existing projects include The F.A.M.E. Team (the ultimate finishing school for hairdressers under 35), Colour Project (specialist colour education), ClubStar Art Team (for members under 25), and Project X (for ongoing education at any age).

This year, the Barber Project was introduced to help hairdressers develop their skills with male clients, and combine men’s hairdressing and barbering skills.

The first day of the project was headed up by team mentor, Edward Hemmings and Matt Gavin from Ruffians barber shop.

Edward gave the team an overview of the year ahead, as well as explaining the importance of men’s hairdressing and why the Barber

Project was launched—to raise standards and build awareness.

Then it was over to Matt to talk about his career to date and how he personally had transformed his role from a hairdresser to barber.

He then provided a demonstration on a model, showcasing some barbering techniques for the team to try in their own hands-on session.

They were tasked with creating a long haircut inspired by Matt’s model, before taking it shorter with the skills they learnt in the morning.

“It’s really exciting to be part of the first Barber Project team,” says Sarah Morrissey from Sarai Hair & Beauty.

“I enjoyed everything about the day. Listening to Matt’s career story to date, in particular, his transition from hairdresser to barber, was so inspiring–as was watching him work, taking skills like cutting a graduated bob and making it work for men’s hair.”

Learning new techniques to take back to the salon is key for any of the Fellowship projects, including the new barber team.

“It was eye-opening to see how I could use the skills I already have and implement just a slight change to create a man’s hairstyle,” Sarah explained. “I’m also leaving equipped with new techniques like mastering the clipper fade, and knowledge of new tools to use.”

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BOOKS BY KIDS

CITY CUTS BARBERSHOP In Kutztown, Pennsylvania one barber shop has launched an initiative to help kids improve their confidence reading in front of others. Books by Kids looks to have children read aloud while getting their hair cut, getting them used to the idea of speaking in front of new audiences—in exchange the kids get $3.

Public speaking has often been described as the number one fear—above even death.

As much as 75% of the adults struggle with glossophobia, the fear of public speaking, with only 10% of the population loving public speak.

A further 10% find the activity physically debilitating—exhibiting symptoms including; nausea, panic attacks, and extreme anxiety.

Across several different career paths, public speaking is essential for successful progression and any degree of glossophobia can have devastating effects. It could, potentially, prevent you from taking risks, speaking about your work, and putting yourself forward—affecting growth both personally and professionally.

Two of the biggest triggers for glossophobia are having a new audience, or a general lack of experience with public speaking. If the children in City Cuts are brave enough to read while getting their shape up, they’ll receive $3—as well as practice speaking in front of new audiences.

Jon Escueta, City Cuts barbershop owner first noticed this issue when he was coaching basketball; players were afraid to communicate with each other both during practice and vitally in games—outside of practice this would all change. The players even acknowledged this was came from a fear of public speaking. This

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gave Jon the insight and understanding on the importance of communicating without fear.

“We made each one speak-up to our team in front of everyone about game plans and directions before and after games and practices. By the end of the year, we improved so much that they started playing a lot better and weren’t as afraid to communicate on the court.

“So, I figure why not bring this into the barber shop to a younger group so by the time they got to the fifth or eighth grade they wouldn’t have a problem speaking up.

I came up with the book idea because they wouldn’t necessarily read to everyone, but by just reading to their barber it doesn’t seem like it is public speaking for the kids, but at the same time it’s tackling that problem. They don’t realise that they are building confidence through reading in front of others at a very young age.”

One video of the initiative in action has been viewed on Facebook over 13 million times, to incredible acclaim. City Cuts have even created a GoFundMe page for the #bookysbykids initiative with an initial goal of $1,000. At the time of writing their GoFundMe site has received $1,810 from just 54 backers.

“The GoFundMe page started because there were so many people who were willing to donate money and not just books. I didn’t like the idea at first because I didn’t want people thinking that I’m just here trying to raise money for our program. It wasn’t about that. But, given the support, a client actually gave me the idea to open up an account through GoFundMe. So now if we raise more than enough, we will think of other ideas to be able to give back to the kids with either a scholarship fund or raffle every month for them to win a bigger monetary prize—it’s still pretty early to tell which way to go about it.

“The reception has been tremendous with all the people around the world. The comments, likes, and shared videos have been a blessing in disguise so to speak. It’s getting our message out that public speaking is definitely a fear in a lot of adults and that we should confront it as early as possible. And with the media coverage, it’s been a grateful experience on my part because with that alone I’m getting over my fear of public speaking.”

“Our end goal is for other businesses and barber shops to adopt our program... if we invest in our kids now our future will be brighter because the kids aren’t afraid of speaking up and letting their voices be heard.”

Hair: Carlos Valiente @ Salones Carlos Valiente Photographer: Esteban Roca Stylism: Salones Carlos Valiente MUA: Nacho Sanz

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SALONES CARLOS VALIENTE

M E TA L C O L L E C T I O N Hair by: Borja Carbonell @ Salones Carlos Valiente Photographer: Esteban Roca Stylism: Alba Garcia (Cache Croche) MUA: Borja Carbonell BarberNV Magazine | 15

GILLETTE

THE BEST MEN CAN BE Living in a post #metoo world, the actions we take as men are in the spotlight more than ever before. Inspired by the social movement, Gillette is calling on men to throw away the aspects of masculinity tied with misogyny and violence—asking men to hold each other accountable and become positive role models for future generations.

S

ome have lauded Gillette for their new woke ad campaign, while commentators like Pie*s Mo*gan have labelled the short film as “PC guff”.

The advert, entitled We Believe, flips the brand’s classic slogan “the best a man can get”, changing it to “the best men can be”.

The campaign, designed to confront toxic masculinity, shows men and boys bullying, engaging in sexual harassment, and rather introspectively a sexist ad from the brand’s own past. Showing a new side for a new generation of men, Gillette have seemingly realised that “boys will be boys” is and has never been good enough.

The ad, directed by female director Kim Gehrig, the woman responsible for the memorable John Lewis Man on the Moon advert, has predictably received her lion’s share of online abuse—almost to prove the necessity for the ad. Despite this online vitriol, 63% of the feedback on Twitter has been positive according to media analytics company Sprout Social.

While some showered praise on the razor brand for the update to their now 30-year-old tagline, others like UK panto villain, Pie*s Mo*gan took to social media in a firestorm of bile. Almost as if to prove the point Gillette are trying to convey a tsunami of red-faced male commenters asserted the brand’s direction was an affront to masculinity, and brands should stay out of gender discussion and politics.

The video, which immediately went viral, now sits at over 16 million views on YouTube with 816,000 dislikes to 406k likes. But, regardless of the positive and negative metrics, people are talking about masculinity—albeit not always positively. Some so infuriated by the Proctor & Gamble-owned company ‘moralising’ they have taken to

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breaking, binning, and even, in a fit of insanity or social media posturing putting their razors down the loo.

Responding to the advert, M*rgan tweeted: “I’ve used @Gillette razors my entire adult life but this absurd virtue-signalling PC guff may drive me away to a company less eager to fuel the current pathetic global assault on masculinity.”

Like it or not, the company’s new attitude is here to stay. In a statement to the press, president of P&G Global Grooming, Gary Coombe said: “Gillette believes in the best in men. By holding each other accountable, eliminating excuses for bad behavior, and supporting a new generation working toward their personal ‘best,’ we can help create positive change that will matter for years to come.”

Why do so many men feel threatened by an advert, threatened by equality, threatened by a mirror being held up to negative behaviours?

The video, which immediately went viral, now sits at over 16 million views on YouTube with 816,000 dislikes to 406k likes.

As we highlighted in the last issue, men across generations feel this mirror reflection is a threat to how they interpret their own masculinity: “Now much like in the 1850s there is a distinct uncertainty surrounding older constructs of masculinity. Gender and identity politics shake the iron-clad foundation of one, now fairly archaic understanding of manhood.”

A few may roll their eyes and ask what can one advert really achieve; other than angering some men into flushing or snapping their razors… The sheer amount of media attention given to Gillette over the advert almost guarantees a wave of brands prepared to put their money on marketing to millennial sensibilities, even when the public are understandably cynical about brand and celebrity involvement in social issues.

If nothing else brands will have learned that being present at the heart of a divisive political issue will garner them mass-media attention. It wouldn’t be silly to assert we will see brands clamour over their own notso-PC pasts to align themselves with the right side of history.

And, while it is too soon to measure the success of Gillette’s campaign so soon after launch, there will be a tidal shift in how brands market themselves. After all, Gillette aren’t the first; look at Pepsi’s woeful advert piggybacking on #BlackLivesMatter depicting Kendall Jenner seeming to solve political and racial tensions with cola—although this was mired for entirely missing the mark.

If brands aren’t just cynically marketing to millennials then the message broadcast must match the actions the brand takes. If we are to believe that social change can come from the products we consume, those companies must show more substance than marketing campaigns.

Because it will take much more than that to wash out the stains of the past.

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LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S London Fashion Week Men’s, now in its 13th iteration, once again showcased the very best of the forthcoming AW19 fashion staples. The wild runway shows demonstrated exactly what LFWM is about— pioneering creativity. The Autumn/Winter collections vast diversity in style gives a session stylist ample room for creativity in hair.

We know you’ll not see many of the looks on display walking down the streets of the UK, but for a hair professional to take concepts from a designer’s collections and translate that into a distinct, one-off and striking look deserves applause. BarberNV has found four shows and the stylists you should pay attention to.

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ART SCHOOL

Crazy Color The Art School show opened LFWM, in Shoreditch’s The Truman Brewery. The show celebrated the non-binary form with models cast to push forward notions of otherness.

Capturing the sexual identity liberation at the heart of their young generation, they have patiently built a label honouring this cultural evolution by pushing the boundaries of readyto-wear fashion.

Meanwhile, stylist Shiori Takahashi created hair sculptures encompassed with articles interwoven with human hair. Created from repurposed lost property from queer safe spaces across London. Wigs and hairpieces were coloured by Amy Fish, colourist at Larry King Hair Salon using Crazy Color—known for their explosion in Britain during the midst of the Punk Rock era—with neon pink or lurid green hair giving a real nod to the 80s, using popular shades Crazy Color Pinkissimo, Crazy Color Bubblegum Blue, and Crazy Color Lime Twist.

Rebel pinks and bright blues, all-around colourful fun was the brief for hair colour and Amy said: “It was amazing working with Art School and their vision for their evolving community is a powerful one. The concept of hair colour for the show was all tailor-made to meet each model’s personality, they were all so grateful and it was an absolute pleasure to work with them. Creating grungey fluorescent colour was easy with the new Crazy Color GO NEON shades—easily my new favourite colours to work with as you can be so creative when it comes to colour.”

The inspiration for the AW19 show came from photographs Cindy Palmano took of Tori Amos in the mid-1990s—Palmano took photos for Tori’s first three albums.

In their debut standalone show, designers Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt built on their reformist, queer-first values, showing slashed jersey t-shirts with limbs poking out, metallic jacquard tailoring, and torn velvet bias-cut slip dresses.

In 2017 the pair told Vogue: “It’s about the celebration of the queer form. We work a lot on the queer body. Everyone here is a non-model—the people here are our friends who we love and care for. And we want to make things that represent them. The queer form is not something that is often explored or represented... but we are talking about it because we are those people. We are trying to do what we want to say as a young generation.”

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STEP BY STEP

FUDGE / DANIEL w. FLETCHER LFWM LOOK Models for the Daniel w. Fletcher London show at LFWM, styled by Anna Cofone at The Wall Group, using Fudge products evoked an “after school playground feel”. With prep-school inspired, slicked down side parts giving way to ruffled, deconstructed crowns.

STEP 1

Section off the front of the hair and clip it out of the way. Spritz Fudge Professional Salt Spray throughout the hair at the back of the head, then dry off using a flat brush, brushing hair to the opposite side it would naturally fall to boost the scruffiness.

STEP 2

Use narrow straightening irons to smooth down any flyaways, using clippers to remove any unwanted fuzz.

STEP 3

Mix equal parts Fudge Professional Xpander Foam and Fudge Professional Hair Gum, then comb the mixture into the roots of the front section using a narrowtooth comb. Keep the length at the front free from product.

STEP 4

Create a straight side part, then working with the hair’s natural wave, comb the fringe around and down the side of the face and back behind the ear—securing the fringe with barber tape and clips. Tie a hair net over the whole hair and secure under the chin to set.

STEP 5

Finish with Fudge Skyscraper Extra, encouraging the disheveled texture through the hair at the back of the head.

PRODUCTS USED: Fudge Professional Salt Spray (£12.95), Fudge Professional Xpander Foam (£12.95), Fudge Professional Hair Gum (£12.45), Fudge Professional Skyscraper Extra (£10.45)

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PHOEBE ENGLISH

Fudge Professional Phoebe English’s latest AW19 collection focused on sustainable manufacturing processes, using materials that would eventually return to the earth. Similarly, the hair followed with a natural aesthetic, featuring the models’ unique textures.

Uniformity for the collection came from the height on the top and back of the head. All of the hair was worn back off the shoulders to showcase the clothing.

The clothing itself featured a monotone theme, peppered with striking accents of colour.

Session stylist: David Harborow at Streeters using Fudge Professional products.

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“

...fresh, clean, dewy hair with a distinct definition.

WOOD WOOD

R+Co

Wood Wood’s AW19 collection, entitled Come Down Easy, presented a woodland adventure, drawing inspiration from the wilderness and nature. Celebrating great mountains and adventures in nature, with all garments ready to face the elements head-on. Alpine references were present throughout, mixing Wood Wood’s contemporary streetwear style with elements of outdoor living in prints, styling, and detail. The inspiration behind the hair for Come Down Easy was fresh, clean, dewy hair with a distinct definition.

Session stylist: Jan Przemyk on behalf of Aofmpro.

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”

“

...a nod to 70s punk and cult cinema

�

C2H4 LOS ANGELES

R+Co

The collection, titled FM-2030 was inspired by Belgian-born author, teacher, transhumanist philosopher, futurist, consultant, and athlete F M Esfandiary. Who, to break traditional naming conventions and aspire to external immortality, changed their name to FM 2030. Armed with his inspiration, C2H4 headed by Yixi Chen, created a collection that engaged their typical formula of concept, chemistry, science, and culture.

The hair design for FM-2030 is a nod to 70s punk and cult cinema, Fifth Element fitted the lived-in street aesthetic created using R+Co styling and cult hair colour Purple Riot.

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“

origami giesha meets Apres ski

”

ICEBERG

Revlon Since bringing the Italian label to London in June 2018, creative director James Long has been fusing his British aesthetic into the collections. With this collection in particular, Long has delved into the brand’s archives— showcasing bright 80s prints but crucially infusing the British punk attitude.

Vial described the inspiration for Iceberg’s AW19 hair as origami geisha meets Après ski.

He used American Crew Fiber Foam to slick the hair down, then brush wrapping around the head to create a hugging effect. American Crew Superglue was then applied to give the look shine, folded with a pintail comb and dried in place. Long, straight wefts were pinned to the side of the head, with the join hidden by retro headbands or hats.

Session stylist: John Vial for American Crew.

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CHARLES JEFFREY

Revlon Professional The fragile romance behind the new Charles Jeffrey collection starts with a 1923 firstedition copy of The Story of Peter Pan by James Matthew Barrie. This collection is an illustrative reimagining of the 1920s and the decade’s androgynous Bright Young Things— drawing additional inspiration from the Lost Boys, Warhol’s factory stars, and the feral ruffians of Lord of the Flies.

As for the hair inspiration, John Vial said: “The hair was really inspired by Charles’ love affair with the 1920s. We looked at lots of designs, in particular, the structures of Colche hats that really hug the head with neat, folded designs. I absolutely love the Origami hair and wanted to emulate the Colche hats manipulating the hair into interesting designs with folds and tucks. Also, added into the mix was the reimagining of the Eton crop, made famous by Josephine Baker, with slicked back shining hair finished with a few curls.”

Session stylist: John Vial for Revlon.

“

The hair was really inspired by Charles’ love affair with the 1920s

”

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OLGA GARCIA

REBELDES COLLECTION Hair: Olga García @ Olga García Estilistas Photographer: David Arnal Stylism: Aaron Gil MUA: Wilder Rodríguez

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Hair: Olga García @ Olga García Estilistas Photographer: David Arnal Stylism: Aaron Gil MUA: Wilder Rodríguez

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PRODUCTENV Y

Editor’s Choice

EDITOR’ S COMMENT It’s a new year, and with it comes a rush of exciting products. There’s a lot here we’re excited about everything from the packaging to the imagery, and the product quality. If you’re looking to expand your services or simply treat yourself and up your grooming game, we’ve got your back.

The Purist Shampoo SEB MAN Formulated with guarana extract and a refreshing scent of bergamot and pink pepper, SEB MAN The Purist Purifying Shampoo is designed to cleanse and soothe the hair and scalp.

The Purist Purifying Shampoo is also made with zinc to provide an anti-dandruff effect and relieve irritated and itchy scalps. £12.50 treatyourskin.com

Brickhead Styling Gel Woody’s For Men This firm hold matte gel can be used both on wet or dry hair. For a softer hold apply to damp hair. Woody’s Brickhead Matte Gel is a fantastic modern hairstyling product, capturing the firm hold of a traditional gel whilst using the more contemporary matte finish for a casual, stylish look. £5.50 fragrancedirect.co.uk

GP21 Trimmer Panasonic

Hypoallergenic Prescription Perricone MD The cold weather is taking its toll, enter the skincare range from Perricone MD. This set includes a cleanser, nourishing moisturiser, and firming eye cream. This powerful set is formulated to hydrate while addressing the visible loss of firmness and fine lines.

The Panasonic Professional GP21 trimmer is for professionals who want an exceptionally close, precise, and clear cut. The light-weight and easy to hold trimmer is ideal for blending and neck/beard touch ups, and provides 40 minutes of continuous, maximum power, cordless cutting. This trimmer is non-slip thanks to its rubber pads meaning precision trimming has never been easier. £59.40 + VAT salonsdirect.com

£113 perriconemd.co.uk

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A great display and collector’s item, simply ask your official Reuzel distributor how you can get their new haircare display with detachable Reuzel Neon Clock.

It looks great on the display and hanging on your wall.

A conditioning beard oil specially formulated to nourish from root to tip. Packed with natural oils to leave the beard and skin looking healthy and feeling smooth. £6 johnnys-chopshop.com

A great go-to for nighttime or special events.

The soft shine adds depth to hair and looks incredible in photos. Without looking greasy or wet, this styling product provides a silk sheen with a versatile, medium hold. £38 patricksproducts.co.uk

reuzel.co.uk

Beard Oil Johnny’s Chop Shop

S2 Shine Finish, Medium Hold Styling Product Patrick’s

PRODUCTENVY

Red Neon Clock Display Reuzel

Ice Cool Foaming Shave Gel Elemis This high-performance foam moulds itself to the contours of the face for the cleanest, closest shave. Chinese date, English oak, and witch hazel help defend the skin against irritation and razor burn, leaving the skin feeling nourished, softened, and refreshed. £24 elemis.com

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PRODUCTENV Y

Grooming

Beard Shampoo Murdock London

Coal & Clay Face Scrub Thomas Michaels Made using natural oils and botanicals such as activated charcoal and rhassoul clay this face scrub gently cleans and cleanses the skin.

Work a small amount with warm water in your hands to form a paste, apply to face in circular motions then rinse.

Clean the city out of your beard with the Beard Shampoo from Murdock London. Facial hair needs special care. This pH balanced, sulphate-free formula thoroughly cleanses without stripping hair follicles or skin. £18 murdocklondon.com

£19.99 thomasmichaels.co.uk

Man Made Premium Hair Spray 18.21 Man Made If you’re looking for a natural, lasting finishing spray to style thick, thin, wavy or straight hair, look no further than this all-purpose hair spray. It’s lightweight yet resilient, and provides attractive texture while controlling, and maintaining hair styles. $24 1821manmade.com

Liquifflex men-u Liquifflex disperses evenly through the hair and hands are left dry to the touch. Great flexi-hold and suitable for all hair types and styles. Practically weightless, it thickens the hair, for extra body and volume and can be used as a foundation product by applying into damp hair. £16.95 men-u.com

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PRODUCTENVY

PRODUCTENV Y

Furniture & Equipment

5 Star Pocket Comb Wahl The new Wahl folding comb with saw-cut teeth protects your scalp as it massages it without removing any of the natural oils. The iconic design mimics that of a shave razor. It even comes with a keychain to clip onto your keys or belt loop to make sure it’s always on hand. £8.99 + VAT coolblades.co.uk

Black Ninja Set Matakki The Black Ninja matching scissor set (scissor and thinner) from Matakki is hand crafted with Japanese 440C steel, then finished with a protective matt black teflon coating. All complete with the Matakki seal of quality—available in both 6” and 7”. £235 matakki.com

Hot Cabi Takara Belmont A very compact, energy-efficient, and invaluable tool in a salon offering beauty or grooming services.

The Hot Cabi can hold 50-70 hand towels in its 13 litre capacity. Better working comfort for stylists and technicians inevitably raises their quality of work.

Working at the correct height improves posture and seated instead of standing saves energy. £490 modasaloninteriors.com

Prince Barber Chair Designed with a classic barber chair shape, the Prince Barber Chair combines stylish, modern functions to meet your client’s needs. The Prince Barber Chair features a hydraulic pump to adjust seat height along with individual functions to adjust the backrest, headrest, and footrest to adapt to the comfort of each individual client. £799 + VAT hairandbeautyworld-uk.com

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TETSUYA ITO

I N T E R IOR S W I T H TAK AR A BE L MON T Japanese interior designer Tetsuya Ito started his salon design career for Takara Belmont with a design for a local barber shop in Tokyo in 2004. Tetsuya’s designs were such a success, winning awards and praise by both clients and the industry, Takara Belmont extended his working base to their New York and London offices.

He uses his eclectic influence to create beautiful interiors for salons and barber shops.

Designing interiors can be difficult, you’re working between your interpretation of a client’s concept, budget, and the actuality of the space you’re working in. This is where the expertise Tetsuya and Takara Belmont have collectively built up is invaluable. be into something positive. However, Tetsuya told BarberNV that while most customers have an idea, style, or key concept—these sometimes result in inconsistent requests.

“I mix and sharpen their ideas to create a simple and strong concept for the design proposal. I always follow a customer’s layout requests.

Then I add some styles and design ideas from the customer’s character or concept.”

Tetsuya Ito

J

apanese interior designer Tetsuya Ito started his salon design career for Takara Belmont with a design for a local barber shop in Tokyo in 2004. Tetsuya’s designs were such a success, winning awards and praise by both clients and the industry, Takara Belmont extended his working base to their New York and London offices.

He uses his eclectic influence to create beautiful interiors for salons and barber shops. Designing interiors can be difficult, you’re working between your interpretation of a client’s concept, budget, and the actuality of the space you’re working in. This is where the expertise Tetsuya and Takara Belmont have collectively built up is invaluable.

A lover of cross-genre spaces, Tetsuya pointed out The Bike Shed Barbershop in London as a prime example of this. Not only from a design aspect, but in terms of the site’s location.

“Those shops have a very unique style and are always attractive to me. They are a true representation of the owner’s ethos, philosophy, and origins. They give the salon context. When you go in, you know what they stand for and where they are coming from. Perhaps another reason I like them is because these kind of spaces are so very rare in Japan. This is due to the health regulations being so strict, and even hairdressers and barbers in Japan have to work from different spaces.”

Firstly, Tetsuya takes stock of the site, measuring and analysing the space to find a solution in which to turn any negative points there might

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Tetsuya takes inspiration from a whole host of places from contemporary art installations to retail fashion stores. The most notable example of this multi-disciplinary inspiration is a beauty salon in Omiya, Tokyo Tetsuya designed seven-years-ago. The Regalo salon was initially two wholly separate buildings, one constructed of concrete and the other wood, one a former gallery, and the other an old shoe shop.

The space Tetsuya conceptualised is divided by draped fabric screens, imbuing the salon with a ghostly aura. The design makes use of Trompe-

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L’oeil—an art technique which utilises realistic imagery to create an optical illusion that the depicted objects in three-dimensions. A style most notably popularised by luxury French fashion house Maison Margiela.

His admiration for cross-genre design is evident throughout Tetsuya’s work. From mosaic floor patterns and interspersed floral weaves against an industrial background, to crisp white ceiling murals against textured walls—Tetsuya’s vision is one of modernity, defying expectations of what a professional hair and beauty salon aesthetically looks like.

Tetsuya has grand ambition—this much is evident. Speaking with BarberNV about what he would create if a project’s budget was an infinite well,his idea starts using Takara Belmont’s fully flat motorized shampoo chair “Yume”.

“Yume offer the best shampoo and treatment position, with the client laying down completely flat.

“If money is no object, I want to create a treatment room with a whole video wall and ceiling to create the ultimate experience. Maybe not only with visuals but sounds and smells will be programmed in and the process will be like virtual reality.”

*SHOWCASE*

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MANUEL FERRERES

JOHN COLLECTION Artistic direction: Salón FIVE Hair: Manuel Ferreres @ Salón FIVE Photographer: Esteban Roca Stylism: Ban & Ro MUA: Elisa Cabañero for Salón FIVE

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Artistic direction: Salón FIVE Hair: Manuel Ferreres @ Salón FIVE Photographer: Esteban Roca Stylism: Ban & Ro MUA: Elisa Cabañero for Salón FIVE

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ALDWYN & SONS Fitzrovia, central London

The UK’s first and only gentleman’s pedicure room threw open their doors for the very first time last December in London’s prestigious Fitzrovia.

Aldwyn & Sons finds home in a speakeasystyle room at the back of the acclaimed Sharps Barber & Shop on 9 Windmill Street, London. The unique space will offer a menu of manicure and pedicure treatments, totally tailored for the modern man.

Taking inspiration from the role of the footman of yesteryear, Aldwyn & Sons will seek to modernise this role for today’s society.

The origins of the word footman date back to the 14th Century, a role that was formerly to run alongside the carriage of his master to protect it from overturning and prepare the destination for the master’s arrival. Latterly, footman became a term for the highestranking servant, one rank below the butler and often as his deputy. With these traditions appearing so scarcely in modern society, today The Modern Footman has a new meaning, it is the pivotal step forward for the foot care of today’s gentleman, as provided by Aldwyn & Sons.

Aldwyn & Sons founder, Aldwyn Boscawen said: “Men’s grooming, particularly the feet, are often overlooked and can have a significant impact on a man’s overall wellbeing. It was in searching for somewhere to have a pedicure myself that a gap in the market was spotted—a nail salon really wasn’t for me and there was little else on the market to address my

unsightly, coarse, and at times uncomfortable feet. In contemporary times, foot care has never been accessible for gentlemen in a bespoke environment and tailored to their comfort... until now! Aldwyn & Sons is born and I’m so proud to be welcoming our first customers.”

The very first of its kind, Aldwyn & Sons is an environment for the quintessentially British gentleman and seeks to change men’s attitudes towards foot care and the way it is provided. Aldwyn & Sons encourage men to come and put their feet up, in a relaxing setting, with the core belief that all men

should look after their feet, as the results affect overall health from head to toe.

Aldwyn & Sons’ bespoke menu of treatments—with manicures priced from £30 and pedicures from £40—including the signature, 45-minute Modern Footman, encompassing a pedicure of nail and cuticle work, foot filing, exfoliation and moisturising, followed by a foot massage.

Full treatment menus can be found at www.aldwynsons.co.uk.

Follow at @aldwynsons on Instagram and Facebook, and @modernfootman on Twitter.

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OS B A R B E R S

N E W

T

B R I G H T O N

he second Brighton arm of OS Barbers opened in mid-December 2018, much to the same success as the Chelsea and Flagship Brighton barber shops. At the end of the summer, Joe Steven and George Oakley found the unit which would eventually become the third OS shop.

The location is fantastic, being in a different catchment to their flagship Brighton shop, they were able to cater to clients both old and new—delivering the OS brand of approachable, top quality barbering to all. As well as taking advantage of the new property’s affluent footfall.

OS began life as a two-chair shop before demand forced them to bring in a third chair— they were so busy Joe admitted to BarberNV they were losing customers—this is when the pair knew they needed another Brighton location. The manager from their flagship shop, Alex Turner, invested in the business to create the new location—giving the founders a new route to further expansion.

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The shops themselves subscribe to minimalist aesthetics. White walls are adorned with only the bare essentials, two block colour art pieces, and of course, an AK-47. Identity can be sculpted with greater care when there is less of a focus on filling every small space—this is very evident in OS. This approach allows customers to focus more readily on the experience, as opposed to being overwhelmed by visual noise.

The new shop showcases the same warmth as the flagship, featuring a refreshing atmosphere and the highest level of passion and professionalism. The brand is even experimenting in growing their menu by brewing their own beer for customers to sip

S H O P

while enjoying their OS experience.

George and Joe both started their careers in hairdressing at the age of 16, and took their customer service values straight from their industry origins. Ever inclusive, OS only offers warm welcomes with zero judgements.

With the opening of the second Brighton location, and three locations under their belts, Joe and George will be focusing on ensuring each location is busy, before working to build OS’ company culture. The pair’s mission statement seeks to see OS developing a community both in and outside of the shops themselves. To make sure their service, skill sets, and retailing are up there with the very best I our industry, to do more charity work, and eliminate as much harmful plastic from their premises as humanly possible.

“We’re passionate about all the plastic in the ocean, especially being from Brighton you see it all wash up on the beach.”

Joe and George are incredibly ambitious businessmen, since the inception of their first Brighton shop the pair have set a goal

of opening six shops. Halfway there, Joe admitted this might only be the start of an empire, allowing others to invest in their vision could create a lot more… and it wouldn’t be hyperbole to suggest you may see OS.

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ALAN FINDLAY

FELLOWSHIP OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING

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ALAN FINDLAY

FELLOWSHIP OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING

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A CHANGE IN ATTITUDES TO

FEMALES IN THE INDUSTRY There’s never been a better time to be in the barbering industry. The industry has seen continued growth over the last decade and doesn’t show any signs of slowing down. Though strangely there still exists some underlying determination and stubbornness.

When we consider it wasn’t long ago media outlets were reporting on women being banned from even sitting in barber shops, and the prevalent attitudes towards women in society at large—women in and outside of the industry haven’t always been treated as equals. Attitudes that suggest barbershops are male-only spaces or solely male preserves should be consigned to the past where they belong.

With Friday, March 8 being International Women’s Day BarberNV wanted to take time to celebrate the incredible women pushing the industry forward, challenging attitudes, and producing incredible haircuts day-in-day-out.

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L E A H H AY D E N C A S S I D Y

Five years ago, after a leg injury forced her to give up football and taking many different career paths, Leah Hayden Cassidy first picked up a set of clippers. She has since been dubbed one of Ireland’s most successful barbers and is one of the most recognisable names in modern barbering. A well-travelled soul, it was in Berlin where Hayden honed her keen eye for fashion and developing her simple, clean, and editorial vision—a style which has become her trademark. Now based in London, Hayden alongside her girlfriend, a fashion stylist, inspire each other—creating projects merging both hair and contemporary fashion influences.

Despite barbering being a male-dominated industry, Hayden believes any hardships can be overcome and turned positive, she told BarberNV: “We all face challenges, not just by our gender but in our industry as a whole.

It’s all about confidence for me and once you believe in what you are doing, I think it will shine through no matter what gender you are.

I see myself as an equal to everybody and I’ve never played the ‘female barber’ card. I’m a barber and I let my work speak for itself.

“When I started there weren’t very many

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females in Europe represented in the areas of platform and education. And now, I’ve seen a huge rise in females believing in themselves and pushing themselves to the highest standards in this industry. I think the biggest thing is to support each other. We’re coming into an age where gender is less of an importance.”

Hayden became addicted to barbering even before picking up a set of clippers, as she recalls: “I remember maybe six months before I started barbering, I was following the likes of Kevin Luchnmun, Alan Beak, and some other talents. Observing how they created their work and following them on social media really inspired me.

“A lot of people ask me how I’ve achieved so much in such a short space of time and I think it’s a lot to do with my passion for the trade. I love that no matter how much you learn you will never know everything, it keeps things exciting and keeps me motivated to keep pushing myself.”

Her talent has seen her performing on stages across Europe, alongside industry titans.

Last year, she was appointed to the Andis Education Team. Education has played a large

role in Hayden’s formative development— something she is keen to pay forward. She told BarberNV: “My mam is a facilitator/ teacher and a lot of my family are involved in different aspects of education. My first major in University was elementary school teaching.

Later, realising it would limit me to teaching in America, I switched majors to psychology.

“I feel very passionate about spreading any knowledge I have and helping people understand and grow. I truly believe everybody has something to share, especially in this industry. We all cut differently and we all have our tips and tricks.

“My goal is to share as much information as I can with others so together as an industry, we can raise the standard of barbering. I was lucky enough to make some amazing friends in the industry early on in my career who shared everything with me, and I want to do the same.”

The desire to educate, tempered by her upbringing permeates through her social media presence. Having started her YouTube channel last year with the goal of spreading more knowledge through longer, more engaging videos—owing to the fact

Instagram doesn’t allow for the same depth as YouTube. Hayden has learned a lot through hairdressers and barbers on the video hosting site, now sharing her knowledge with her 2.2k subscribers.

“I love that visuals and art and videography can capture so much,” she said. “Instead of a 15-minute video of me standing behind a chair, I’ve tried to incorporate a mix of good music, good visuals, and helpful tips. I’ve spent the last few months travelling, which has limited my time to dedicate to my content on YouTube, but I have some really exciting projects coming up which I will definitely share through my page.”

Looking forward to the year ahead Hayden has a lot of opportunities in the pipeline.

Though there isn’t much she can give away this early, the Irish influencer looks to push her creativity further, continue educating, and learn more herself. She said: “I’m still very new in the industry and there is still so much I want to learn. I’m lucky enough to be based in a city with some of the leading stylists in the world and I’m going to take full advantage of that.

“I’m really excited about this year and I’m ready to push even harder. I believe in growing and letting my audience grow with me.”

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DÁ L E R Y V I VA NC O

Dálery Vivanco is a Mexican barber and owner of Hell’s Razor in San Pedro Garza García.

Barbering since 2012, Dálery truly began her journey when she was young. Being fascinated by hair as a child she started by playing with the hair on her dolls, growing over time to convincing her brother and friends to let her cut their hair.

“I started studying when I was 12-years-old and through the years and attending many courses around Mexico I realised my passion was in men’s haircuts. I decided to focus on barbering and I am fully in love with and committed to it. There’s no doubt in my mind that following my instincts and finding a place

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where I can have fun every day; it’s the best thing I could have done.

“I have been working in barber shops for seven years, and after many years of hard work I was able to accomplish my dream of opening my own shop Hell’s Razor. I feel very proud of our team because we’re united in our shared love for barbering, we are committed to giving the best experience.”

Now, Dálery is fully committed to her barbering school—Hell’s Old School—passing on her wealth of knowledge to the next generation of prospective barbers. Dálery describes her style as being forward-thinking while remaining steeped in traditional barbering—striking a perfect balance between the industry’s past and present.

“I really like natural haircuts; my scissors are my best ally in creating form and texture.

“I really like natural haircuts; my scissors are my best ally in creating form and texture.”

Beards are my favourite challenge, I love creating the perfect style for the morphology [sic] of the customer... and doing a classic shaving ritual where my client feels completely relaxed—because this relaxes me.”

Despite her success in the industry, Dálery does admit to challenges as a female barber, while being positive about industry progress since she first began.

“There have been many challenges. The industry is mostly run by men, but lately, this has been changing step by step and I’d like to think in Mexico I have been a factor in more females finding a passion for this profession.”

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GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH

BarberNV last featured Gemma Willock-Smith back in 2016 as part of our Rising Stars series. Originally from Brixton, Gemma worked with Rebel Rebel for little under eight years—even managing the Glasgow barbers for two-and-a-half years.

Now Gemma has gone out on her own, recognising that everyone, eventually, needs to spread their wings—Gemma’s being an ambition you cannot falter. At the start of December 2018, she opened Frequency on Maryhill road, with a second shop already planned to open in Glasgow’s west end later this year.

Gemma has been part of the hair industry for 18 years, starting as a hairdresser before becoming a barber. Having such an impact in a male-dominated industry, we asked Gemma if she had faced adversity for being a female barber, she said: “No, never. I don’t really see boundaries, I never have. My focus is on my clients and how I can be creative for them, and how I can be better at what I do for them. I don’t focus on anybody else or anything else in the industry.

I don’t look at other people, I look at me and the people around me, and how I can help them. Which now, opening a business, I’m going to have to a little bit more.”

However, Gemma believes industry awards should have more diversity in their categories; stripping away the gendered awards for Best Barber making the categories inclusive of all competitors.

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“When you’re winning Best Female Barber it doesn’t make you feel like you’ve won because you’re only up against one gender. I think there should just be a Best Barber because between our hands there’s nothing different. And I know a lot of male friends who would like to get put up against women because it’s a real challenge. I would like to walk away with Best Barber period.”

Prolific with her stage work Gemma told us she is at crossroads, looking to start spending more time with her clients.

“It’s great for your social media, it’s great for your profile but really it doesn’t put a roof over my kids’ head. But I do enjoy doing stage work, so I think I’ll maybe do it as a

hobby every now and then and push my team.

“Photo shoots are the part I’ll be focusing on because that’s the best content you can put on your social media. A photo’s worth a thousand words.”

This year, as Gemma told BarberNV, she intends to enter both the American Crew All-Star Challenge and the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards—pushing her team to enter as many categories in the latter as they want.

For these illustrious competitions, Gemma has organised two photoshoots this month, opting to showcase the styles she wants to see gain a rise in popularity.

“I started in hairdressing and only really started tapping into barbering a couple of years before I started at Rebel. I think in the time since I started everything has already swung around. I remember when I was a kid my mum had a mullet, then they were back in fashion when I started barbering, and now they’re back in again.

“For me, I’d like to see shorter scissor cuts.

Long scissor cuts came in and they’re already on their way back out again. Not so much the taper fades people are showing, more like old school crops like Stefan from Vampire Diaries.

You know my main wage is fades and I fade all day every day, but I’d like to see more of those styles come out of the box.”

2019 is going to be a very busy and exciting year for Gemma, and we can’t wait to see the results of all the hard work—not just for herself but for everyone around her.

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SAMANTHA LLOYD

Welsh-born Samantha Lloyd was the first woman to break the ban on female barbers in the United Arab Emirates.

For generations sections four to nine of the Health Requirements for Barber Shops, created by the Dubai Government’s Public Health and Safety department, stated women were not allowed to work or even be present in barber shops—the only exception being in hotels with a four or more-star rating.

“I applied to the British Barber Association (BBA) in the UK and they passed me over to Chaps and Co. They were advertising for positions and he knew they were looking for a female barber, but this hadn’t been approved in UAE yet.”

Recognising this opportunity would open a lot of doors, not just for her own career, but for other female barbers seeking to ply their craft in the region—she immediately took the chance and applied for the Chaps position.

“I knew I would be the person for this role as the first female barber of the UAE because

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I’m strong, passionate, and professional with a bubbly personality. I have become known as a result of this title, as well as my skill as a barber, which is something I have always wanted in my career. It has been challenging to work in a country with such different laws and religions, but it’s incredible to be part of and I have learnt so much from the different cultures.

“It was very challenging trying to win over sceptical men who aren’t used to having a woman cut their hair. I showed them my skill, professionalism, and personality and this wins them over by the end of their service. I make the client feel comfortable in my chair and confident when they leave it.

“There have been many challenges since I began in this role in Dubai,

but I have always been strong, determined, and professional even in situations I was not comfortable in. I do not show anyone I’m afraid. I have to show strength. High standards proved to my clients I am trustworthy and can build a positive relationship.”

Despite the uncomfortable situations and an uphill battle winning over the male bastion’s clientele, Samantha has proven women can achieve anything in the industry. Through her determination against the laws, regulations, and scary challenges more doors have been opened for the Welsh barber. Breaking down social stigmas in an incredibly conservative part of the world, admittedly wasn’t the easiest experience. However, Samantha has received television, radio, print, and social media coverage and has achieved so much as a result.

“I will continue working hard to keep my brand up there in the barbering industry.

However, this wasn’t the easiest experience and especially in one of the most law-abiding countries in the world. I broke their laws and they look up to me for stepping up, being strong, and making myself a success. Dubai is known for always achieving the best and biggest, and I am proud to be a part of that.”

Despite possessing one of the most difficult career achievements, the female barber is measured, humble, and considers this only the beginning for her success. Being an asset to the region, working in Dubai’s design district alongside a collection of the most talented artists and fashion designers, Samantha was approached to help advertise a new Vans range; aimed at those who work on their feet all day.

“These shoes are called VANS IN THE MAKING and they were designed with new

grips on the sole and memory foam inside to mould to your feet. I agreed to take on the photo shoot and I used my barber shop to be more relatable to my everyday life. I had the best time and valuable experience working with the team at Vans. It was an amazing photo shoot for my portfolio and enormously beneficially to my social media brand.”

Signing off, Samantha is now on her way to Australia with big career goals ahead of 2019.

She’s already made history for women in the industry, not fully content with just shattering ceilings we’re sure there’s a lot more to be said about Samantha Lloyd’s journey.

“All I can say is that this is just the beginning of a massive project ahead. Australia is going to be another amazing journey and ultimately my career path.”

“I have always been strong, determined, and professional even in situations I was not comfortable in. I do not show anyone I’m afraid. I have to show strength. High standards proved to my clients I am trustworthy and can build a positive relationship.”

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TOASTIE STYLES It’s been a while since Dani Lewis aka @toastiestyles graced the pages of BarberNV, and what better occasion than when we’re celebrating the incredible women in barbering.

From the start Dani has done things to the beat of her own drum. Self-taught, she now features heavily on the Johnny’s Chop Shop YouTube channel—showing others her cutting and styling techniques. Social media has given Dani much more than followers and an international reputation, as she tells BarberNV...

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BNV: It’s been a while since the last time you were in BarberNV, which was all the way back in issue 5. What’s been happening in your career since then and how do you feel your style has evolved over this time?

DL: Since issue 5 my career has blown up and I’ve learnt so much! Not just from cutting hair, but from my clients. I’ve watched them all grow up, it’s like having loads of sons. They make me more confident and creative. If it wasn’t for them, I think I would slack on my career massively and I wouldn’t try new things out.

industry?

DL: At the beginning, yes. Not many girls were doing barbering so I think guys couldn’t take it seriously. This is why I think so highly of Instagram. If I didn’t show my content, I would still be that girl in the barber shop clients avoided. Once you show your potential you shouldn’t encounter any challenges.

BNV: Do you think barbering is more accessible for women now?

DL: 100% yes.

BNV: What plans do you have for the future?

DL: I’m not a massive planner, I like to go with the flow and see what the universe throws at me. I have a few ideas... but they’re top secret.

BNV: You’ve been doing style, cutting, and small interviews on the Johnny’s Chop Shop YT channel. Is education something you’d like to push yourself towards in the future?

DL: As a self-taught barber I don’t think teaching is something I’ll ever be interested in. I can be crazy creative with no structure, so I don’t know if anyone would understand my way of cutting. I actually want someone to teach me!

BNV: You have a very prolific social media profile. Do you think more tutorials and video content is where the future of barbering on social media is going?

DL: Definitely, I mean partly the reason I got so far in barbering is because of videos on YouTube and Instagram. I’m planning to get some creative content set up for 2019... stay tuned!

BNV: Do you feel you’ve encountered any challenges as a female in a male-dominated

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SALONES CARLOS VALIENTE

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Giving the best

CONSULTATIONS Consultations are a crucial service in many industries and barbering is no exception. The time taken allows both barbers and their customers to get across an understanding of what they want and should expect from any given service.

Denis Robinson, Ruffians creative director They’re an opportunity for a customer to get across what they want, and for you as a barber to offer up recommendations and suggestions of styles that would suit their hair type.

Even going as far as to make suggestions on products—of course feeding back into how you retail your products showing your

“

a new client is that when they are coming to a new barber; it’s usually because they have become unhappy with their old barber.

“I avoid questions like, what do you want?

What would you like me to do? As these questions put the onus on the client coming up with the plan.

“With a new client after welcoming them to Ruffians, I ask them, “what are you in the mood for today?” It gives them an opportunity to open up, as they choose what they want to achieve. Sometimes they will go into what they’ve been unhappy with previously and even though I don’t need to know that I allow them to spill it as it can help me with ruling things out. I don’t need to know how they’ve come to be in my chair—as to what’s made them unhappy—just things to avoid to make them happy to be with me.

“Once I have an idea on shape and form I delve into length.

“What sort of length usually suits you best?—this gives them control of how short they want to go. But, also gives them the opportunity to ask for something they wouldn’t normally have.

“Finally—are there any areas you struggle with?—people love an opportunity to get stuff

”

The consultation completely sets the tone for your relationship with a new client.

customers what each product can achieve, eventually showing off the end results. This will build up a story in the customer’s mind, associating the products with the results of your service.

We asked Ruffians creative director, Denis Robinson what his top tips are on giving consultations...

“The consultation completely sets the tone for your relationship with a new client.

However, it also sets the tone for those in the seat regularly. The thing to remember with

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off their chest, the key is to really listen to what they say as you will need to pick out the bits that are relevant to what you will do.

“I try not to get too technical about what I am going to do in the consultation, this leaves me room to be creative based on how their hair reacts to being cut. Also, I think if you are too technically specific about what you are going to do, clients are knowledgeable enough to pick up on what you may have done differently.”

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BARBERING AND M E N TA L H E A LT H

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illennials get a lot of flak for being ‘snowflakes’ and the like, but according to research by the Varkey Foundation young people in the UK have the second worst mental wellbeing in the world—with only Japan falling below British millennials. And official mental health statistics show millennials experience feelings of anxiety and depression more than any previous generation.

While younger generations are more likely to talk about mental health, men are traditionally less likely than women to discuss problems relating to mental health or to seek emotional support. Much of this is down to the ways in which men and women communicate. For example, men are more likely to seek support for mental health issues outside of the mental health system.

Barbershops provide a sense of belonging for many and can act as the surrogate men seek outside of the mental health system— showcasing the important role the barber shop holds in male identity. This is true not only of clients but of the barbers themselves.

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Scott McKie Scott McKie is a 22-year-old barber who has been working professionally for little under two years. Working out of Rednecks barber shop in Glasgow, Scott has experienced dealing with the debilitating side of mental health. Scott worked his way down a few different career paths, journalism being one, finding little fulfilment—until he found barbering.

“Barbering’s actually been tremendously

helpful for me, but if you’re having a bad day with anxiety you still have to turn up. You still have to turn that switch on where you have to talk to people all day. I tend to find once you get the ball rolling it’s okay, but that initial step can be maddening sometimes. I would say so much of society is hard-wired to suppress those feelings, I really struggle with being open sometimes.”

According to mentalhealth.org.uk, 50% of mental health problems happen by the age of 14 and 75% by 24—with eight out of ten people experiencing mental health issues in their life times.

Scott told BarberNV: “Very few people I know haven’t had problems with mental health at some stage. So many struggle with mental health issues that you aren’t different—you aren’t somehow damaged because your brain chemistry is a little screwy, it just happens.”

One obvious trigger for these feelings is the prevalence of social media, with industry darling Instagram being named as the worst for mental wellbeing.

Scott said: “The change is happening from

the ground up. You could compare it to a DIY punk way of employing change, but the funding, the laws, the regulation needs to come from somewhere. Wait times for the NHS are atrocious, but what good is being on watch for six-months while you’re medicated.

Some things are time sensitive.”

This ground up movement is even having effects on older generations of men. Scott continued: “I don’t necessarily think it’s just social media that’s helping tackle these.

The older I get the more I see my dad being more open to shedding these layers of toxic masculinity overburdened from childhood. I don’t know if that’s more societal changes or anything. But he says things now that 10-15 years ago wouldn’t have been the done-thing I guess.”

Recognising that while a barber can function as psuedo-psychiatrists, there is far less of a cold, clinical edge to the barber shop. Scott explains: “Quite often you’re comparing their life to yours or your life to theirs, it becomes a mutual therapy session.”

Scott, who has never received a formal, medical diagnosis, exemplifies how men seek out alternatives to mental health services.

“I’ve never been to a doctor about any of it. I don’t want to have to take any sort of medication for it, therefore I never thought going to a doctor would be good. I know how I feel and I just deal with it. Which, conversely, maybe isn’t the healthiest way of dealing with

it.”

It’s at Rednecks where Scott has found a supportive atmosphere, his support network so essential for maintaining a positive mental wellbeing.

“I’m quite lucky that we have a really small team, so we’re quite tight knit, there’s no pressure or anything like that.

“When I was an apprentice, I had an anxiety attack mid-haircut, it was debilitating and I had to go through the back, sit in the office and shake for a little while after I had done the haircut. My boss, Blair, came through and he could see I was rattled. I said I just needed to go and he said it was fine.

“I wrote the day off as a bust because I had to go home. It was horrible, it rarely happens that badly and certainly that’s the only time it’s ever happened in my current job. It knocked my confidence a lot, but because of the type of shop it is it was never a problem, it was mentioned but it was more ‘take care of yourself and make sure you do everything you need to do’.”

Environments like this are so important, even though barbers hold privilege with their customers they shouldn’t forget each other. It isn’t just the people in their chair that need support, look around you and talk to your colleagues if you feel they might be having a rough time, be empathetic, be that sympathetic ear we all need.

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ROBERT

GROSVENOR

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PELSYNERA

MINIBEAT COLLECTION Hair: Pelsynera Stylism: Pelsynera Photographer: Oliver Viladoms Studio MUA: Pelsynera

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E M I LY L E M A Y Emily talked to BarberNV about her career, being the UK Lady Barber, and her role as Gould Barber’s educator.

E

mily began her career in 2002, first training as a hairdresser as there was no barbering qualification open to her. Taking just six months to qualify, where it should have taken two years, due to her apprenticeship in an old school barbershop. From there she worked in and around Kent, making her way from barbershop junior, to barber, to shop manager. After some time, Emily decided to open her own barbershop and tattoo studio in 2013—which she ran for five years before making the move to King’s Lynn to work with Gould Barbers—where she is an educator for the barber chain.

“Through various shows, I had made some friends and had a lot of job offers, with one of them being from Gould Barbers,” Emily told BarberNV. “And they could offer me a lot more than just your independent barbershop, they’ve grown at a ridiculous rate. So, I took their offer, moved up here and worked in two of their shops and I’ve just been appointed the educator in their academy collaboration with Mike Taylor. So, I’m in there full-time training their apprentices.”

Throughout her career Emily has trained a lot of barbers, but as she described “it’s always been one on one in the chair”. Though not a process with any formal accreditation.

As Gould Barbers started a rapid expansion Emily discussed the prospects of education with them—this is where Goulds and Mike Taylor began talking, with their incredible educational collaboration snowballing from there. Emily said: “It’s nice to have a different focus. I personally wanted to move over and educate rather than standing behind a chair–I love standing behind a chair, but it becomes a bit like Groundhog Day after a little while.

For me, training new apprentices is quite rewarding–the lightbulb moment when they get something is so rewarding.

“They would be training one on one with a selected barber for between a year and 18 months, but that can now be cut down a little bit and they can be behind the chair within six months–depending on the student of course!”

The academies, however, are not the only

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places you can find Emily passing on her wealth of knowledge. She can also be found demonstrating her technical ability at various hair shows around the UK—showcasing her process alongside other great names in the industry. And despite her well-known social media name, @ukladybarber, Emily told BarberNV she’s never seen herself as a female barber. Acquiring the Instagram tag as more of a tongue in cheek joke than anything political.

She said: “I’ve never seen myself as a female barber, and I tell everyone that. I’m not a female barber, I’m not a lady barber, I’m just a barber. There are plenty of different genders that can do plenty of different job roles.

“I think barbering is one of the only professions where you have to specify whether you’re male or female. Everyone was going on about ‘lady barbers’. So, I got the @ ukladybarber tag quickly, just on Instagram as a bit of a tongue in cheek joke. And the joke kinda got away from me, as that’s how quite a few people know me now.”

Despite the tongue in cheek joke, Emily has never felt, that as a woman she has been discriminated against. She told us: “I’ve heard some people say they would prefer a man to cut their hair and that’s fine. With clients, it’s always a personal preference to who cuts their hair, and I just treat it like that.

“I’ve never really experienced any issues with being a woman in the industry. Although it was a shock because I was the first female barber in King’s Lynne. When I came on board the locals were a little shocked, but the good thing was after I joined, we’ve had female apprentices, other female barbers so it’s opened the door for them.”

Emily has recently become the first UK ambassador for multi-dimensional, salon management software, Versum Software.

While Emily may be educating full-time she’s had a wealth of experience running her own barber shop and knows what makes salon software worth its salt.

“To be honest, out of all the salon management softwares I personally looked at using when I owned my own barber shop, it’s a lot more user-friendly and the support

Emily Lemay network they have for people who take on the system is brilliant.

“I would say Versum does a lot more than a lot of other companies do at the moment– especially for barbershops. It does your finances and your salon management without having to do a lot with it on a daily basis.

Whereas a lot of companies don’t offer that.

“You have the marketing aspect, it can target specific audiences. For example, if you have one barber or stylist who hasn’t got a lot of bookings you can target just their clients alone. To remind them, they’re still there and there are bookings available. But you can also pick people who choose particular services, there’s a lot more targeted marketing than your bog-standard email or text everyone off the list.”

It has been a whirlwind year for Emily, beginning her role as a full-time educator, her partnerships with Versum Software and Dear barber, and her appointment by the British Association of Master Barbers as a master barber—one of the highest industry honours. Additionally, Emily is an ambassador for Armour to Barber and will raise money for the charity throughout 2019, as well as finding work placements for ex-service personnel.

2019 will no doubt hold many more incredible experiences and accolades for Emily.

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CHRIS FOSTER

Your passion is NOT ENOUGH

A

s a career coach, I speak to and help many professionals try to make a big impact within the industry. Everyone I have the pleasure of speaking to are super passionate, but quite frankly that isn’t enough! Especially if you don’t have a strategy, it’s hard to find out where you’re going wrong if there are no systematic processes in place. This is true when tackling a complicated haircut, if there is a system and goal, there is success.

So why build an iconic industry profile?

When you become an iconic industry professional great opportunities find you.

Recognition, lucrative financial opportunities, joint-venture partnerships, recurring income, and other exciting ventures are commonplace for iconic industry professionals... hey, even your face on the front cover of a magazine!

These opportunities are virtually impossible for those who do not have a strong industry profile.

Here are some tangible things you can expect when you become an Iconic Industry Profile.

Media and publicity, the media is always looking for experts within the industry. The press always wants to get their take on many different subjects and are constantly looking for experts and key people of influence to share their insights and knowledge.

When you are an Iconic Industry Profile (I.l.P) you get sent to work at amazing locations around the world or get asked to present on big stages both nationally and internationally. They get asked to be VIP guests at events and many other fun surprises show up unannounced. The fact is, all the best opportunities go to iconic industry professionals. And you need to be one the ONE. There are two ways to increase your earning potential in this industry. The first is move to a location that charges premium prices and the second is becoming an I.I.P. Traditionally, we are taught to work hard on

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our career path, learn new techniques, and master new methods of working. All in hope that the magic happens and you become amazingly good and can charge top dollar for what you do, but my friends, this is far from the truth. Allow me to introduce to you three types of hair professionals.

The Newcomers—are buzzing with excitement they are full of dreams and hopes of becoming an iconic industry professional.

They get excited by what the industry can offer and they are willing to work long hours for not very much pay in the hopes that one day they will be offered the right opportunities to excel in the future. They are the ones working for free backstage at fashion week.

They are the ones working for free at hair shows. They are the ones saying yes to every opportunity that comes their way.

The Grafters—The Grafters are the ones putting in the time and effort, but not seeing much fruit for their labour. They were once newcomers buzzing with excitement, but now those dreams have been knocked out of them. They are burnt by bad experiences and feel used by the industry. When they were newcomers the industry felt fresh, new, exciting, and financially rewarding. But now they are resentful of the enthusiastic newcomers and the iconic industry professionals who make creating opportunities look effortless. Grafters are those who may enjoy their work but are disappointed the results don’t come in quickly enough.

Iconic Industry Pros—iconic industry professionals are the ones with huge Instagram followers, creating fresh interest, and attracting new people to the industry. They are the ones travelling the world sharing their passion. They are the ones creating their own product ranges, or endorsing huge brands.

They always have lots of opportunities flowing around them, achieving amazing results.

I.I.P’s attract investors who are looking for people leading the way—money flows where momentum goes.

The truth is there is nothing more restrictive

than being average or ordinary. It is harder to achieve your goals if you are like everybody else, if you are not seen or heard. Nobody will know how magnificent you are. You have to stand out, you have to be an Iconic Industry Professional.

Now let’s get into the how.

Find a good mentor Success is always a team sport; there is no such thing as a self-made millionaire. It will save you years and a lot of money to find the right people to work with. There is great leverage from working with people that share your ideology. They can help you shortcut the learning process. When left alone most people become distracted, unmotivated, and uninspired they will have difficulty completing tasks that lead to successful outcomes.

Procrastination and time-wasting becomes the norm. The truth is it is harder to fulfil our true potential on our own. That’s why every great sportsperson has a coach, the Prime Minister has advisers, and actors have directors, all to bring out their best—passion is NOT ENOUGH! Become an epic content creator Plan and develop a strategy for sharing your content. Now, I don’t mean just one-off posts on Instagram. I mean following a strategy that allows the industry to consistently see how magnificent you are.

There are many ways to share your brilliance; with photographic work, step-by-steps, and blogs. These are all strong methods of showing your work to your audience and being noticed within the industry. Think of it this way, if you’re a recording artist and you make records it is vital for the artist to have an outlet to share their passion. The industry needs to see your work, they need to get to know you and like and trust you.

I share more profile building strategies on my blog which you can visit at www.thefossacademy.com

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// Column

SAM WALL

The Community Barber Show This was the biggest ever barber show in Halifax, Canada—and what a show it was.

“The biggest ever barber show known as The Community Barber Show was an epic success, and we are already planning number two in Toronto— so watch this space!”

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To be honest, I was overwhelmed to be asked to present alongside 10 other reprobates from across the world. The lineup consisted of Matty Conrad, Frank Rimer, Paul Harmer, Nick Kinsley, Mari De Monte, Brett Kelly, The Nomad Barber, Mad Miky, Robert Braid, and the man behind the whole event, Mark Peyton. I think I speak on behalf of every single platform artist when I say just how incredible this guy is. Mark, the creator of The Barber Community, not only managed a soldout event but put together a huge show which was incredible to be a part of. Mr Peyton entertained 11 international barbers, provided us with the best experience ever, and treated us like royalty. For this Mark, we thank you very much.

After the 24-hour journey out there, I finally arrived in Canada and met the rest of the motley crew. Saturday soon came around and Mark had plenty lined up for us. After breakfast, we headed to his shop, Sailorbups Barber & Tattoo Shop and had a nice little surprise where we all ended up with the same tattoo. This group of talented barbers were already family, but the symbol of a Martini Glass engraved on each of us is obviously a moment that won’t ever be forgotten. The evening came and there was a gathering held at Sailorbups, which was where I realised the true extent of just how big the show was going to be on Sunday evening. It sunk in how special this was and everyone felt nothing but love and the hype started to build. To say it felt overwhelming would be an understatement.

Sunday morning came and we all arose to meet in the lobby. A bus was booked to take us to a winery, which I must admit was one of the best experiences I’ve had as we met Donnie, the 75-year-old owner. He used to be a barber and started his barbering career at 16; which continued until he retired at the age of 68. Listening to his stories was incredible and made us all appreciate just how much we love our work. I would love to follow in his footsteps, and I admire his passion for barbering. A special moment which was topped off by receiving a signed book he

personally wrote and now sells. Incredible guy, incredible moment, one I will cherish for the rest of my life.

SHOW TIME We gathered together and headed to The Garrison, which was where the show was being held. We rocked up and headed backstage to start prepping. The nerves were running high, but everyone was still so relaxed at the same time. It was like performing with your best mates who just supported one another, and we all knew how much fun this was going to

be. The first four artists up were Mark Peyton, the hero of the hour, Matty Conrad, aka Canadian Barber of the Year, Rob Braid, the pattern wizard, and of course Brett Kelly, a man who needs no introduction. They set the standard and wowed the packed crowd with such diversity of cutting. This is why the show was so special, as each artist did something completely different. Next up was myself, Nick Kinsley, Mari De Monte, and Miguel The Nomad Barber. To be a part of this lineup was awesome and we bounced off each other so well. Looking out over a sold-out event, the packed audience made us all feel very welcomed. Last but not least to showcase was Frank Rimer and his cowboy hat, Mad Miky from Holland, and Pauly Harmer who smashed his first ever stage show like he had been doing

it since he was born.

The show was over but the party was just about to start. With all artists completing a very successful presentation we headed into the audience to mingle—we were all so overwhelmed with the reception we had received. It was one of the best experiences I’ve had in my hairdressing career and all because a guy called Mark Peyton took a chance on us as a collective group, but boy did he reap the rewards. The biggest ever barber show known as The Community Barber Show was an epic success, and we are already planning number two in Toronto—so watch this space!

From us all, a massive thank Mr Peyton.

Truly inspiring.

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PELSYNERA

GREEN PINK COLLECTION Hair: Pelsynera Stylism: Pelsynera Photographer: Oliver Viladoms Studio MUA: Pelsynera

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Hair: Pelsynera Stylism: Pelsynera Photographer: Oliver Viladoms Studio MUA: Pelsynera

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NEW TO E-CHAIR.COM CARLOS & CO Royston | Letchworth

50/50 profit split

Carlos & Co have two chairs to rent in both their locations of Royston and Letchworth. This great opportunity has arisen for an experienced barber at the top of their game who wants to build their business within two of the most successful barber shops in the country. With access to ongoing training, seminars, and the industry’s biggest trade shows.

Contact: jarmans2015@yahoo.com

MECHE Paisley

£100 (per week)

MECHE, Paisley are growing their team and are on the hunt for an excellent barber, hairdresser, MUA, and aesthetics professional/tattooartist/beauty therapist/sports-therapist. The ideal candidate will be selfemployed, with a good client base. They are a modern new family-based hair and beauty Salon based in the centre of Paisley.

“Quality is paramount to us, and our customers are at the heart of everything we do. We are always looking improve on skills ensuring customers benefit from the best and most up-to-date treatments from us.”

Contact: 07894 858 970

ROSS CARTER BARBERSHOP Falkirk

Negotiable

The Ross Carter Barbershop, Falkirk has been in business for 18-years, and recently opened a second shop and academy. They are looking for barbers that want to grow their clientele and enjoy ongoing education and business support.

RC Barbershop and academy offers any barber the best of both worlds, combining education and a clientele base that has support of a salon with a large female base to be able to target their partners.

Contact: 07891 507 388

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10BARBERING Glasgow City Centre

£300 (per week)

10Barbering is based in a super city centre location in Glasgow with excellent passing trade. The position would suit an experienced barber who wants to be their own boss and manage their own diary.

Contact Zak: 07555 115 285

THE SOCIAL London

£120 (per day)

The Social is at the forefront of changing how the hair industry thinks.

Creating a world lifestyle studio in true collaborative fashion, based in London and the Lake District encouraging the flexible work ethos of the ‘freelancer’ community. They embrace your sporadic movements and let you take control of your own time, money, and opportunities.

With five chairs available or the whole salon and/or the Social Studio, photo studio. Three hair or makeup chairs and two barber chairs.

Contact: ky@kycut.co.uk

HIDDEN HEIGHTS STUDIO Gateshead

£120 (per week)

A hidden railway arch in the up and coming area of Bridges Quarter, Gateshead. Just a short walk from Newcastle City Centre. Hidden Heights offers an inspiring workplace allowing you and your brand to grow independently. Founded almost five-years-ago it was among first of its kind. It enables forward-thinking individuals in the creative fields of photograph hair, barber, and MUA’s a collaborative space to create.

Embracing the freelance community.

Contact: info@hiddenheightsstudio.com

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SPONSORED BY

// ALAN FINDLAY

IN THE CHAIR

EACH ISSUE BARBERNV BRING YOU SHORT INTERVIEWS WITH SOME OF T H E B E S T I N T H E I N D U S T R Y. ALL SPONSORED BY E-CHAIR.COM.

Many of our readers will already know Alan from his columns in BarberNV, but for our new readers, Alan Findlay is one-half of the masterminds behind Glasgow barbers Rebel Rebel and the MADE barbering academy— established to train and inspire the next generation industry creatives.

money, I wanted them to do it because of their love for the industry. I think when you’re passionate about what you do and you love what you do, and the money side of things comes anyway. We wanted a training academy that incorporated our Rebel Rebel ethos with the education.

Alan has had an incredible career in the industry working backstage at festivals, attending to athletes at the Glasgow 2014 Commonwealth Games, and educating on stage at barbering shows across Europe.

BNV: What are your biggest inspirations?

AF: I think my biggest inspiration comes from the beauty and creativity in things—it can come in any shape or form. I think from a creative point of view you’re always thinking about how you can show off your barbering skills in a cool way.

I’m always looking at things in nature, things in TV and film, or music and subcultures. You know what’s going to be the next big thing.

Cool stuff always starts off very underground.

This year we’re going through a bit of a renaissance, we’re trying to develop our art team and build the creativity and inspiration to produce amazing images and share them with the rest of the industry.

The other aspect is from somebody who has a lot of experience, I’m trying to share that experience with our younger guys, in hopes they are inspired so they inspire me. By taking the shackles off their creativity, to not be scared of making mistakes or being judged for what they’re doing. Having a fearless attitude towards producing something different and edgy. A lot of the younger guys in the industry are coming in with a fresh set of eyes, so they can show me things that will inspire me to create new looks and trends.

BNV: How has it been running MADE and have you always seen yourself as an educator?

AF: It’s been a lot of work putting everything in place to make sure we’re providing the standard of education we set out to do. All throughout my career I’ve wanted to share my knowledge and what I know.

For myself, I learn techniques that would work in a modern barbering sense, because the old ways of doing things were very fast and furious. This meant the standard was really poor and obviously in that type of business you have to charge really cheap prices and you were doing quantity over quality. This meant you weren’t getting any loyalty from your clientele and you were always chasing clients.

I’m really excited about what we’ve done so far and I’m happy with the way the education is going. I think young people coming into barbering are spoiled with the amount of choice they have when it comes to education.

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BNV: Rebel Rebel is such a recognisable brand. How have you shaped your identity over the years?

AF: It probably goes back to the first meeting I had with my business partner Colin. We sat down and tried to work out what we wanted to call ourselves. We had this idea of creating a brand that stands for being different and breaking the rules. Doing things in a way that breaks away from conveyor belt barbering.

We wanted to take more time, charge more money, have better-educated barbers, and have more pride in what they do as a barber.

That’s where the name Rebel came from.

Rebel Rebel is there to set a trailblazing path for barbering that hadn’t been done going back ten years ago.

BNV: What advice can you offer the next generation of barbering talent?

AF: I think people should come into this industry because they have a real passion for being creative, getting a job that gives you self-satisfaction, where you can put a smile on somebody’s face.

Don’t do it for the money, do it for the creative side, be an artist at what you do. If you try and blend skills that will make you better than the people around and give you pride in your work that you can’t buy with money.

I’ve been doing this ten years and I still wake up in the morning and enjoy what I do, and there are not many people who can say that about their job.

The Social, London now on e-chair.com

Help your business reach its full potential 1. List your space on e-chair.com 2. Connect with freelancers in your area 3. Profit from filling your empty chairs “e-chair.com has opened the world of chair hire to the 21st century. Fast, efficient and pleasing on the eye - a lot like our members and their clients. Things won't be the same after this!”

Adam Sloan, CEO of MHFED “As a salon owner, the ease of use is what I really love about e-chair.com. Whether you’re booking or letting, the simplicity of e-chair. com makes it a pleasant experience and so much quicker. Everyone will love this!”

Alan Findlay, Owner, Rebel Rebel

Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules

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