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AESTHETICS | BEAUTY | HAIRDRESSING | NAILS | TANNING

Welcome E

veryone at TeamNV hopes that 2017 is treating you well and you followed the tips in the last issue to maximise revenue in the slower months of January and February. Hopefully your salon is heating up now and we have two salons that are fantastic examples to follow when it comes to keeping customers happy. KAM Hair and Body Spa is based in Lossiemouth in the northeast of Scotland but it hasn’t stopped owner Karen Thomson from building up a reputation that would make any London salon envious. While Guy Christian Salon in Wales is fast becoming the brand of choice for the discerning fashionista in both Cardiff and nearby Cwmbran. Born only a few miles from Lossiemouth in Elgin, Tracey Devine Smith has had a truly incredible career – four time winner of Scottish Hairdresser of the Year, Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year, and a member of the British Hairdressing Hall of Fame – and she’s not stopping there, taking on a role as Global Ambassador for Affinage, as well as becoming Global

Creative Director of Glamour Hair in the United Arab Emirates, so it was exciting to hear about how she’s getting on. We also welcome two new regular contributors in this issue, celebrity hairdresser and premier wigmaker Carl Bembridge, who’ll be sharing his tips and styles to keep you in the know when it comes to the latest trends and styles. Meanwhile Erin Gavin, who has been seen on both the Broadway stage as Marilyn Monroe and TV in a host of wellknown series is taking us behind the scenes on life in Hollywood – now that’s the life! If you’ve spotted the boom in barbering and want to know how you can take advantage of it, you will want to hear barber and hairdresser Joseph Lanzante’s expert advice, while with Mother’s Day just around the corner have you figured out how to maximise it as a retail opportunity yet? That’s just a small portion of the content in this month’s issue so if you can take advantage of your last few idle moments to have a read before the customer rush begins once more, you might just find it was worth your while!

Joanne X

Joanne Reid | Editor-In-Chief

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www.salonnv.co.uk Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success Founder & Editor-in-chief Joanne Reid | Sub Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil | Telesales Executive Nicole Mclelland Cover Image Hair: Hair: Julian Dalrymple, Photographer: Richard Miles, Styling: Clare Frith MUA: Diane Alexander Thanks Mr Haircare - Emil McMahon, Cocoroco PR, Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, B TheAgency, Su-pr, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Hairdressing Council, Blue Tit, NovaLash, High Definition, Salonized, Rachel Gribble, Mood, Jennifer Peffer, Pamela Docherty, Fudge Professional, Suzie McGill, KAM Salons – Karen Thomson, Kay Corbett, Tracey Divine Smith, Matthew Curtis, Mazella & Palmer, Kay Corbett, Medusa, Rush Hair, Josie Smith, Trevor Sorbie, Carl Brembridge, Mazella & Palmer, Hensmans, Erin Gavin, Unite, Joseph Lanzante, Dr Nestor, Wella Professionals, Guy Christian, L’Oreal Colour Trophy, Anna Sorbie, Anya Dellicompagini, Wahl. Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 2125 525 | Web www.SalonNV.co.uk Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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News INDUSTRY NEWS

industry bodies

Rush oscars

L’OREAL COLOUR TROPHY

Products

Features 20

TRACEY DEVINE SMITH

32 KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA 38 GUY CHRISTIAN SALON 40 CATWALK TRENDS 42 MOTHER’S DAY

Editor’s choice

hair

44 WEDDING SEASON

HAIR EXTENSIONS

72 MALE GROOMING

BODY, TANNING & WAXING

SKIN & MAKE-UP

NAILS, HANDS & FEET

Education

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

WELLBEING & AESTHETICS

50 MAZELLA&PALMER

Columnists CARL BEMBRIDGE

ERIN GAVIN

kay corbett 18 THE CARETAKER:

EMIL MCMAHON dr. nestor

74 SIMON SHAW

STEP-BY-STEP

62 BEHIND THE BRAND:

HAIR & BEAUTY WORLD

64 HAIRDRESSER/BARBER

CROSSOVER

66 SALON TECHNOLOGY 80 TRAINING DATES

Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success

Contents Issue 12

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 5

Learning from a legend Hair legend Sam McKnight spent Monday 30th January with the Fellowship ClubStar Art Team and members at his exhibition, Hair by Sam McKnight, at Somerset House London.

Hair Expo success continues Hair Expo Australia has secured the awards for Best Show and Best Show under 10,000m² in the 2016 Exhibition & Event Association of Australasia (EEAA) Awards for Excellence, upholding its status as not only the premier trade event for the professional hairdressing and beauty industry, but one of the foremost trade expos in Australasia. It’s an exciting time for Hair Expo Australia, with entries open for the 2017 Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards now open. The coveted awards celebrate the creativity, passion, and business acumen of hair industry professionals across Australia and New Zealand – the complete picture of what exceptional hairdressing is. Entries are open until Friday 7th April 2017, so if you’re a stylist from Australia or New Zealand you can enter online at hairexpoaustralia.com Meanwhile the first ever Hair Expo Pop Up will be held alongside Beauty Expo Melbourne in March with Caterina Di Biase, Kobi Bokshish, Uros Mikic, Joey Scandizzo, and Marie Uva part of the all-star education line-up.

Having just arrived back from leading the hair team for Chanel at Paris Couture, he spent the afternoon answering questions about his career and sharing invaluable advice on how to make it in the highly competitive world of session styling. ClubStar Art Team Leader Simon Tuckwell conducted the interview which was followed by many questions from the enthusiastic audience. Evangeline Barrett, ClubStar Art Team member, said: “We as a team are so grateful to The Fellowship and BaByliss Pro UK for giving us the opportunity to see Sam McKnight’s exhibition at Somerset House. His career timeline is something of our dreams.” Hair by Sam McKnight is at Somerset House until 12th March 2017.

Free colour class Ganesha Group, known for their famed Brazilian Blowout, are putting on free colour classes with Vivid Colour Master Rebecca Taylor in both London and Dublin in March. It will be an opportunity to learn how to elevate your fashion colour service from dull to dynamic, with an education on Rebecca’s signature Chameleon Colour and Sand Art techniques. Whether you want to know how to safely and effectively pre-lighten to the appropriate level of lift for desired shades, how to mix and create custom shades, how to incorporate B3 Brazilian Bond Builder into your colour service to elevate the salon experience, or want a consumer friendly method for quick and seamless balayage hair painting on natural hair, this is the best way to learn it all completely free of charge. You can attend the show in London on Monday, March 20th at McQueen Shoreditch, while for Irish stylists it’s at Dublin Castle on Wednesday, March 22nd. You can get more details at brazilianblowoutuk.co.uk

Andrew Collinge Awards On Tuesday 31st January, at the iconic Titanic Hotel in Liverpool, the Andrew Collinge Hairdressing Group held their annual awards where 160 attendees witnessed a night of celebration at the company’s success. Following a stylish catwalk presentation from the finalists of the Creative Stylist Award, the first award was presented to Nicola Cunningham, from the team’s Castle Street salon won the very close contest for Creative Stylist. Fiona Davidson, manager of Graduates Liverpool salon on Bold Street won the Hazel Collinge award, which goes to the member of the team who trained with the company, completed their apprenticeship, and has gone on to make an outstanding contribution to the company. The awards were brought to a close when hairdressing industry icons, Anthony and Pat Mascolo, founders of TIGI, presented Castle Street with the sought-after Salon of the Year award, its fourth time picking up the coveted prize.

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Fran heads to France Fran Sleightholme from Kaboodles in Torquay has been crowned UK Beauty Stylist Awards Winner and will now represent the UK at the final awards show in Paris in May 2017. La Biosthetique stylists from across the UK entered the prestigious awards, being challenged to create a total beauty look based on haircut, hair colour, styling, and make-up. The overall impression needed to enchant a board of industry professional judges to be selected as the winner, with Fran’s version of the classic 1960’s pixie crop updated with an urban feel and striking use of winner being the pick of the bunch. She will enjoy a weekend trip for her and a friend in glamorous Paris, plus attend the opulent awards finale to see the overall winner revealed.

Joi for Viv Vivienne Mackinder is joining JOICO as Guest Artistic Director in a role which will see her develop and teach the techniques to help drive the professional creative vision presented to artists. The brand and Vivienne will together create, as well as execute and propel the JOICO vision forward towards new innovations in technology, user-experience, and education for the professional hairstylist. As a seven-time winner of the North American Hairdresser Awards, including the life-time achievement award, Vivienne is one of the industry’s biggest names. She said: “I have long admired JOICO the company and brand, and it is a delight that I have been invited to play alongside such talented artists and professionals.”

Dr. Nestor Leading aesthetic doctor, and regular SalonNV contributor, Dr Nestor Demosthenous, has announced the opening of his specialist hair restoration operating theatre, at his Medical Cosmetic Centre on Edinburgh’s Dundas Street. Dr Nestor’s clinic will be the first of its kind in Edinburgh, offering hair restoration treatment by an in-house doctor, and will be one of only two such clinics in the whole of Scotland to provide this additional level of care and expertise. The operating theatre has been purposebuilt to stage hair restoration procedures and will provide a professional environment for patients to undergo the surgery. Dr Nestor will offer a variety of hair restoration treatments, specifically tailored to each patient to ensure optimum results. With around 50% of men suffering from pattern baldness, and up to 50% of women over 65 suffering from the same issue, there is no need for patients to suffer with low selfesteem due to their hair. Edinburgh’s thriving transgender community may also benefit from the service, which will provide natural-looking results and a boost to confidence too.

Westrow present charity cheque Back for its third year, the NHF’s Incredibles competition is a chance for stylists of all levels to inspire their fellow stylists, with Newcomer, Future Generation, and Incredibles categories depending on experience. To inspire the winners to develop their skills and talent, finalists from both the Newcomer and Future Generation categories will be invited to attend the Inspiration Day at HOB Academy. Multi-award-winning top stylist Akin Konizi will demonstrate on a model and give an inspirational talk on his dedication and passion for the hair industry. The eight winners of the Incredibles Photoshoot category, along with their assistants, will be rewarded with a phenomenal photo shoot at the Goldwell Academy. To find out more about how to enter, visit nhf.info/incredibles and get your entry in before the competition closes on 31st May, 2017.

Martin House Children’s Hospice has benefitted from the generousity of the Westrow team and their supporters, as the Yorkshire salon group presented them with a cheque for £4,100. Westrow staff raised the money by completing the 2016 Great North Run, a 13.1-mile half marathon in the North East of England. The team, consisting of junior and senior staff members from each of the group’s salons, ran to raise money for the charity in memory of Westrow staff who have passed away, including Director Marc Westerman’s brother Jamie, who had worked for the group for a number of years.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 7

Cadilla M, one amazing chair for a multitude of purposes.

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The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is an organisation dedicated to the sheer creative excellence of the hairdressing industry, and 2017 looks like it is going to another incredible year! Member’s Night This event is a chance to see upcoming talent as they take to the stage with the hope of wowing scouts and being chosen for future opportunities. It is always an eagerly anticipated event and is attended by both members and non-members. A great way to find out more about The Fellowship, meet some like-minded hairdressers, and be inspired! The night takes place at the new look Wella World Studio on Monday 20th February and you can book your place now by contacting kate@fellowshiphair.com Men’s Hair Workshop It is back! The Men’s Hair Workshop returns to London with an array of mentors on hand to provide top expertise as you work on your model. This is an example of just what The Fellowship is about and allows members the chance to learn new skills and develop existing ones as they create their look on their very own model. Places are limited to ensure everyone gets the most out of the workshop and you can book by calling 01295724580 New Year introduces some new team members

2017 welcomes a few new faces to the Project Leader Team and you can ‘Meet The Team’ over on The Fellowship’s website right now. We are so excited to announce the new teams for The F.A.M.E. Team, Project X, Colour Project, and ClubStar Art Team and it looks set to be a very busy year for all of them. Get involved A New Year means the perfect time to get involved with The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, if you aren’t already! Everything you need to know is on the website or why not call our Fellowship HQ Team on 01295724579 and find out everything you need to know To keep up to date with everything that is going on visit www.fellowshiphair.com and follow The Fellowship on Instagram and Twitter with @fellowshiphair

The Fellowship

There has been plenty going on this past month, most significantly being, the main Hair Council approved and ratified the newly drafted Hair and Barber Councils ‘Key Objectives’ and ‘Policy Position’ statements, which will now start to filter out to our members and to the whole of the industry. These are extremely important for us all, because these two documents set out clearly and concisely, exactly what the objectives are for us moving forward, and our position on various issues surrounding the hair and barber industry. I have been having meetings with some of the industry manufacturers recently, to explore ways they may be able to better support The Hair and Barber Council in the future. Still early days but initial signs are looking positive, so will update you as and when things start to happen on this. Our industry data surveys started going out at the beginning of February. These will consist of hairdresser and barber related surveys, separate consumer surveys, and telephone surveys to manufacturers, wholesalers, and educational establishments. Invitees to respond will be picked at random, so if you are asked to complete a survey as a member of the Hair and Barber Council, I would be extremely grateful if you would spare the time to complete it for us, thank you. The results of these surveys will be formulated into the body of a report, which we will be able to present to Government, as part of their need to get a much clearer overview of the whole of the hairdressing and barbering industry, as a part of their consideration to amend the ‘Act’ to mandatory. In addition, we will be able to use this data, and of course to share it with you our members, and the wider industry. As we all very well know, hairdressing and barbering offers fantastic employment and career progression opportunities. Possibly some of the most creative and progressive in the marketplace. We together have the challenge, one of many, to ensure all young people looking at their future career paths do at least get the full facts and the opportunity to put our industry options into their mix. An extended academic education doesn’t fit everyone, let’s really herald the benefits of becoming a hairdresser or barber in the future and start to put our industry future growth and progression on to a more secure footing going forward.

Trailblazer’ apprenticeship reforms The government has approved plans for the assessment of hairdressing and barbering apprentices within new employer-developed “trailblazer” apprenticeships for England. The NHF fully supports the new standards, which will launch in May 2017, because they will transform how hairdressing and barbering apprentices are trained and tested, so that they enter the world of work “salon ready”. Download the NHF’s FREE apprenticeship guide www.nhf.info/forms/apprenticeshipguide National Living Wage and National Minimum Wage increase With the 4.2% increase in the National Living Wage and the National Minimum Wage taking effect on 1 April 2017, the NHF has emphasised the steps hair, beauty and barbering business owners should take before this date to get ahead: • Make sure you know the right rate for your employees - visit (https://www.gov. uk/national-minimum-wage-rates) for more information • Check which staff will be eligible for the National Living Wage (and while you’re at it, why not check your staff under 25 are on the correct National Minimum Wage rate) • Update your payroll before 1 April 2017 • Tell staff about any changes to their pay The NHF’s launches its ‘Incredibles’ competition The NHF has launched its ‘Incredibles’ competition to recognise and inspire industry talent. The competition enables stylists of all levels to enter their appropriate category before the competition closes on 31 May 2017. The incredible prizes have been designed by the NHF to encourage the winners to develop their skills and talent and include a day with award-winning top stylist Akin Konizi and an exciting photoshoot. For further information on how to enter, visit: www.nhf.info/ incredibles The search is on for the NHF’s Photographic Stylist of the Year The NHF has announced the launch of its Photographic Stylist of the Year competition. Now open for entries, competitors can showcase their styling skills and techniques through the submission of an image to be in with a chance of having theirs on the front cover of the NHF’s magazine, salonfocus. Visit www.nhf.info/photographic for more information on how to enter.

The Hairdressing Council

NHF

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 9

RUSH OSCARS Words By Josie Smith

he Savoy Theatre in central London played host to this year’s annual Rush Oscars on the 22nd of January 2017, and I went along to find out more about this rapidly expanding hair and beauty company, as they celebrated their work from 2016. Hundreds of Rush employees from all over the UK descended upon the Savoy’s glitzy surroundings - backcombed, straightened, curled, pinned, and gelled, the attendees were all testament to their own creative talents. The show was for the most part a pretty slick production, and hosts Andy Heasman, Rush’s International Creative Director, and Chris Williams, their International Colour Director, received a warm, anticipatory reception from the enthusiastic and loud crowd. It was nice to see all the Rush senior team members, particularly Chairman and Co-Founder, Andy Phouli reminisce so touchingly about their staff’s efforts in 2016, throughout the course of the evening. And well they might actually, given that Rush celebrated their busiest year yet in 2016 - opening 11 new salons and revamping four existing ones. (Rush serve on average in excess of 12,000 customers each year.) It’s been quite a journey for Andy, given that he took £60 in takings on the first day that he opened the original Rush salon in Wimbledon over 20 years ago! The biggest news of the night though was not that Sanchia Hawyard-Holst of Rush One New Change won Stylist of the Year 2016, nor that Lucy Kundomal from Rush Ealing & Kingston won Franchisee of the Year 2016, or even that the Rush Beauty Salon of the Year 2016 was Rush Beauty in Croydon. No, the awards and

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accolades of the evening were really ancillary to the main news that Andy Phouli announced to the assembled Rush employees. He explained that Rush had secured a deal unlike any other achieved by a business in the UK hairdressing industry, and went on to reveal they would be receiving a £16million investment from LDC, the investment arm of Lloyds Bank, to loud whoops and cheers from the audience. This investment will help the Rush brand double its salon count over the next four years, and Andy stated firmly that he was feeling “focused, confident and pumped for the future!” Co-Founder Stell Andrew added that the Rush employees “fly like geese and fight like Spartans!” - I think it’s safe to say that Rush’s team are more than a little passionate about their expansion plans and proud of how far they’ve come! And it is lovely to see a brand rewarding and celebrating their staff as they did throughout the course of the evening at the Savoy. It’s imperative to not only recognise talented individuals, but also to build and sustain strong teams within salons, in order to see business grow. Assistants, front of house staff, and newcomers were all celebrated at the ceremony, and I think it’s a lesson in remembering to reward staff who are on the front line of your business, often at grassroots level. I was also impressed by the high standard of entries in the Rush Photographic Award category. Hairdressing is such a visually inventive and innovative industry - it’s only right that employees should be inspired to create, and Rush do precisely that. Congratulations to the worthy winner Ryan Humpage from Rush Epsom. I look forward to seeing creatively and economically what Rush establish as the rest of the year unfolds. Roll on the Rush Oscars 2017!

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L’Oreal Colour Trophy 2017 Open for entries Prestige. Expertise.Creativity.

he longest running live hairdressing competition in the world evokes all sorts of feelings amongst both its entrants and its admirers. After 63 years as the pinnacle of competitive styling achievement, the L’Oreal Colour Trophy shows no signs of slowing down, in fact they expect 2017 to be the biggest and best yet, and you could be part of it! With four exciting categories for you to enter, you’ll find your opportunity to shine and challenge yourself against some of the most breath-taking talent in the industry. Looking at the past winners is like viewing a who’s who of hairdressing royalty, and there’s no doubt that proving your ability on the biggest stage of them all is a fantastic boon to your career.

No Excuses There is literally no excuse for not entering. It’s free and you don’t need to be a L’Oreal salon – over 20% of salons that entered in 2016 were non L’Oreal Professionnel clients. Everyone is encouraged to take part and use it as a platform to showcase innovative ideas and inspire other hairdressers. That goes for all categories. If you want to be on stage at the L’Oreal Colour Trophy Grand Final on Monday 5th of June, 2017 at Battersea Evolution in London, you need to get your entry in now! The Brief

Can you create a well-executed, inspirational, modern colour, complimented by a beautiful style, Sinead Kelly – 2016 Winner finish, and total look taking inspiration Last year’s winner Sinead Kelly couldn’t from upcoming trends? Of course you speak highly enough of her experience, can. That’s all it takes to throw your saying: “Winning the 2016 L’Oréal Colour scissors into the ring and with the prize Trophy has been such a rewarding of an exclusive three day European trip experience for us. Since opening seven for the winning stylist and colourist to years ago I’ve always dreamed of my photograph the winning look and a oneteam lifting that prestigious award. day photoshoot to create a double-page We’ve come close – we’ve reached the spread featured in a consumer glossy grand final four times – so it made me magazine in 2018 – not to mention so proud to see my team win and enjoy all the recognition that goes with it! Not being able to call yourself a L’Oreal only has it has raised our profile in the Colour Trophy winner – it must be worth industry, but also there’s such a buzz a shot! in the salon with clients. Maybe most To check out the full details including importantly the team’s creative juices full briefs for each category and the are flowing. And we’re not stopping different prizes on offer, visit here - we’re certainly looking forward to winning more this year!” lorealcolourtrophy.com 12 | SalonNV Magazine

L’Oreal Colour Trophy Timeline 28th February – Competition Closes 6th March –

2016 Winners L’Oreal Colour Trophy Award Sinead Kelly, London Sineadkellylondon.com

Photographic Entry Judging Day 8th March – Backstage Live Finalists Announced 27th March –

L’Oreal Colour Trophy Men’s Image Award – Urban Retreat, London Urbanretreat.co.uk

L’Oreal Colour Trophy Afro Look Award Live Semi-Final 9th April – Scottish Backstage Live Tour 10th April – North Western Backstage Live Tour 11th April – North Eastern Backstage Live Tour 12th April –

L’Oreal Colour Trophy Star Award - Grace Dalgliesh, Brooks & Brooks Brooksandbrooks.co.uk

Mizani Afro Catwalk Look – Peter Mark, Belfast Petermark.ie

Midlands Backstage Live Tour 18th April – Northern Irish Backstage Live Tour 23rd April – Eastern Backstage Live Tour 25th April – Southern Backstage Live Tour 26th April – London Backstage Live Tour 5th June – L’Oreal Colour Trophy Grand Final 3rd July – Republic of Ireland L’Oreal Colour Trophy Grand Final

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 13

Carl Bembridge

Carl’s Column Welcome to the first of a regular column from celebrity hairdresser and premier wigmaker Carl Bembridge.

suit your hairstyle to your hair type

dry, and it’s a technique worth learning. You need a good-quality round ceramic brush, which heats up with the dryer and locks the volume in at the roots. You also need a powerful dryer with several heat settings, then take large sections and dry the hair pulling it away from the head in an upwards motion for lots of volume. If your roots are still falling flat, try this blow-dry routine with rollers placed at the crown for extra height and volume.

t can take a while to get to know your hair type, but once you understand the type of hair you have, you can work out what style suits its natural texture. In my first column for SalonNV, one of the first things I would like to share with you is how to understand your hair. To get your best look, you have to understand what works for your hair and what looks best. My advice here will help you understand what works for you. Thick Hair Most women would love a thick head of hair, so if that’s what you’ve got, think yourself very lucky indeed! Thick hair always looks luxurious, full, and youthful – but if you don’t manage it in the right way, it can be difficult to control. Thick hair should be worn long, at least past shoulder-length, so that the weight of the hair can balance out its thickness. Anything shorter will run the risk of sticking out and resembling a mushroom – not the elegant look we’re going for. Embrace the fact that a bob isn’t for you and luxuriate in long, swishy locks. Longer layers around the face and throughout the hair will create movement in heavy hair and take some of the weight out too, leaving you with an effortless-looking, elegant style. If you colour your hair, or if it is dry, make sure you have it trimmed regularly to avoid those unsightly split ends, and lavish your thick locks with a regular hydrating treatment to deeply nourish the hair and keep it in tip-top condition. One difference you will notice between thick hair and other hair types is that it needs more of everything - more hair means that more product is required, and it will take longer to wash, dry and style, so leave yourself plenty of time and you will be rewarded with glossy flowing locks a la Kim Kardashian. Fine Hair Thin, fine hair can be lacking in volume and fall flat if left to grow too long. Avoid that limp, lifeless look and go for a bit of a chop – fine hair will look five times as fabulous if snipped into a chic little bob. And if you can’t quite brave a ‘proper’ bob, go for a choppy lob, which instantly adds fullness and texture to finer hair. Choose a style that sits on the shoulders – this kind of cut always looks effortlessly sexy and extremely cool. Just make sure that the ends are snipped into, so it’s not a blunt finish; the idea is that you want lots of flow and movement, and the illusion of thickness here. Once you have a good cut sorted out, product is key for creating fuller hair; personally, I love to use texturizing sprays to create lots of volume and the appearance of thicker locks. A hair powder is also a great way to create volume. Much of that volumised look is created when drying and styling the hair. For lifted roots and that luxurious look, it’s all in the blow-

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Curly Hair Curly hair is admittedly a difficult one to control – you want to embrace your wild waves, but it still needs to be office-appropriate. Depending on curl type and your own personal style, I would look at both Rita Ora and Khloe Kardashian for true curl inspiration. Khloe is known for rocking bouncy, boho curls in a longer cut, which balances out the width of your hair, so if you’re looking for a laidback style then I’d certainly recommend wearing your curls long and loose. However, if your style is a little more daring and diva-esque, take a look at Rita’s iconic curl style. Cut in a Hollywood-style short bob, with long, wispy layers using a slidecutting technique, creates softness and real bounce. And if you’re really daring, using a diffuser will enhance those curvaceous curls even more. What you want to do with those curls once you have them in shape is to define them, keep dry ends at bay and prevent frizz. One top tip for conditioning hair is, before stepping into the shower, apply a deep conditioner to your hair, pop a shower cap over it, then get into the shower - the steam will help lock in moisture. Or you can apply plenty of conditioner and comb it through your hair while you are in the shower. Combing your hair after the shower simply separates curls and causes the dreaded frizz. And it’s ok to leave a bit of that conditioner in curly hair - the ends need all the moisture they can get. Coconut oil works really well as a deep conditioner and for those with very dry hair, you can run it on the ends for extra shine. Afro Hair Afro hair is notoriously temperamental, depending on how you wear your hair. Braids are practical and always look great, but for 2017, I think we will see more women celebrating their natural texture. Solange Knowles is one woman helping to spread the word about rocking her natural Afro curls with pride, and she’s chosen a cut which looks incredible. Go bold with a shoulderlength blunt cut: this will create maximum volume but looks so modern and fresh, especially worn with a sharp middle parting. Use a specialist curl cream to enhance your curls and waves for a contemporary style that will always look fabulous.

Straight Hair Straight hair is stunning when shiny and super-sleek, but it can be prone to split ends so again it’s important to have it trimmed regularly. And if you use a shine serum, make sure you choose one that suits your hair type. Spray formulas are good for thinner hair - mist onto damp hair from mid-shaft to the ends, while a pea-sized drop of serum distributed evenly through damp hair will work for thicker hair. Curly hair can benefit from a little more product on the ends once hair is dry. And if you have straight hair and just don’t know what to do with it, think about going for a fringe. A cute little fringe will add interest and movement to even the most poker-straight of strands, and you can adapt the style of fringe you opt for depending on the thickness and texture of your hair. Finer-haired ladies should choose a sultry side fringe like Suki Waterhouse for a simple but stylish look, while ladies with thick, full tresses can go for my favourite kind of fringe – the flirty Bardot bangs, thick and full across the forehead a la Ariana Grande. To keep your new fringe looking its best, it will need to be trimmed every two to three weeks. And fringes need to be blown dry immediately after being washed. Because they are shorter and less dense than the rest of your hair, they start drying quickly once you’re out of the shower so you need to get styling for a smooth finish. So fringes are a lot of maintenance, but they’re absolutely worth it for a seriously sexy update that will elevate your whole look.

Rita Ora

Ariana Grande

Solange Knowles

Khloe Kardashian www.SalonNV.co.uk | 15

Erin Gavin, sending starry greetings from the land where dreams come true and anything is possible… Hollywood, Los Angeles.

16 | SalonNV Magazine

am originally from Glasgow, Scotland and proud of it too. The Americans do love our accent which helps occasionally for acting parts, when they want something different! I took the leap of faith seven years ago and have been working as an actress here in Hollywood since I arrived. I decided to ignore the fear and just go for it leaving behind my family, friends, and my business EGA Talent (which is still running today as a family business). I recently played Marilyn Monroe starting on a well-known Hollywood stage then taking the show to Broadway, the Edinburgh Fringe, and London’s West End. I have played many roles in movies and hit TV shows including our very own Still Game, Footballers Wives, Dredd, Love Ad-

dict, and a bunch more! I have also produced several film and theatre projects. Playing Marilyn Monroe was the ultimate experience for me as an actress. It was certainly challenging but so rewarding. I learned so much about Marilyn’s beauty and makeup regime. Back in the day, Hollywood make-up artists used many of the same tricks we do today... contouring, how to make your lips look fuller, eyebrow shaping. Hollywood is an extremely health conscious community with gyms and health stores every hundred yards. I myself have been known to enjoy a cupcake or two but living in Hollywood has helped me become healthier and actually look better. I recently walked the red carpet at the world premiere of Trainspotting 2 and I used some of the valuable tips

I have learned from celebrities, stylists, nutritionists, and Hollywood hair and make-up artists to feel and look my best on the carpet. Red carpet/big night out tips: - Drink hot water and lemon before you do anything else in the morning for at least a week. Great for detoxing your body especially your liver and your skin. - Avoid heavy stodgy foods for a few days at least if you want your stomach to look flat. - Pressed juices are a quick way to flush your system and get your five a day but do not buy concentrate or puree juices. They are not nearly as good. It’s a great way to feel more energised and will stop you reaching for the biscuit tin. - Feed your hair using a hair pack on your locks a few nights before the event. Dry hair can make us look older. - Invest in a good hair shine spray. - Your foundation is the most important thing! If your current one does not give you a flawless, glowing, youthful look, then bin it. Seek out the best skin advice you can afford. I personally use IT cosmetics foundation and Fake Bake. IT foundation has factor 50 and gives me great cover without looking unnatural and Fake Bake tan is the closest product on the market to a natural tan.

- Lip liner should be applied after lipstick and dab a little shimmer on the middle of your lip to give you fuller, youthful looking lips. One of Marilyn Monroe’s make up tricks. - Contouring is not for everyone but a little highlighter in the right places works miracles. - Eyebrows should not be black as the night if your hair is blonde or even brown! Find a colour to suit your skin tone and hair and don’t overdo it. If you have any doubt that it looks too much then I guarantee you it does! Remember make-up was designed to enhance your natural beauty. Forget about following fashion - Wear colours and styles to complement your figure and skin tone. If you are unsure look at celebs online with a similar body shape... chances are they will have a stylist choosing outfits to suit their shape. It will give you some inspiration. - Teeth whitening strips! Best quick fix for that Hollywood smile. - Smokey eyes should be worn with pale/natural lipsticks. Natural eyes with bold lips. It is the red carpet look for 2017. Hope this all helps. Just remember CONFIDENCE is the best beauty product and it costs nothing! Kisses from Hollywood. Until next time...x

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 17

GENNOW DIARY PART 3.

Kay Corbett

Stylist at award-winning Medusa Hair Group

in Edinburgh, has embarked on a year-long whirlwind of learning as part of Wella’s Generation Now team. She’s going to keep SalonNV posted about what she’s up to throughout the year.

18 | SalonNV Magazine

he end of the year brought a lull in the mental activity of GenNow. Between the end of November and the beginning of January, there were no GN events so we were free to pursue our own development. Just as

because of its edgy, young feel and its ability to satisfy a wide variety of tastes. That one session helped me master what is a technically demanding service. To deliver on that edginess also means being ahead of the well. trends in cutting and I definitely benefited from the seminar It was my first Christmas at Medusa and I was flat out for five on cutting with Leonardo. It was a very disconnected short weeks, with my column fully booked. The vibe was buzzing all style that he showed us, very on-trend now, and I’ve had loads day; it still is. I was busy right through January and into Februof happy clients walking out of the salon with my take on that ary. We’ve got the famous Medusa Colour Sale this month [Feb- style. I’ve also looked back with gratitude to the Gary Gill ruary] and it is as booked up as December. I’m not complaining; session on men’s hair. We are seeing a lot of men coming to it’s money in the bank. the salon who are moving away from the short styles of the On the days out of the salon, I was manically busy helping my barbershop and opting for longer hair. That is exactly what Gary husband Jason open his tattoo parlour, Insider, in Edinburgh’s covered in his session, so I’ve been ready. Leith district. I did have a chilled New Year over in Fife, where The Boot Camp also had an impact on how I engage online. we watched the sun rise over the Firth on New Year’s Day. But We were given some suggestions of who to follow, to identify it’s going to be a mad 2017 for both of us. who is good for different elements. I love Shon Ju, who works The break from GenNow gave me a chance to really think with wigs, and of course I’m glued to Gary Gill’s channels. I through what I’ve learned so far and to implement it in the safound others equally interesting, such as Paul Stafford (last islon. I can see it is already really helping me with my confidence, sue’s cover image), who produces amazing creative cuts. but it’s also having a direct influence on what I do for clients. The next GenNow gatherings are this month, presenting Probably the most useful education so far was the Boot Camp spotlight sessions for colleges. We also get a chance to meet right at the beginning. Looking back now I can see it was totally the new team leader, Paul Fensome, who has taken over from on-trend. The session with Robert Eaton on colour, I realise Corin. The pace will ratchet back up over the final few months, now, set me up well so I could really deliver on the massive hike but I’m feeling really positive about it, as I can see it is having in demand for pastels and pre-lightened colouring. Medusa is an instant and profound impact on my hairdressing. the salon in Edinburgh for clients after those lovely light shades, @kayccorbett

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 19

Tracey Devine Smith From Elgin to the rest of the world, Tracey Devine Smith is a Scottish export proving her talent on the biggest stage. A Global Ambassador for Affinage, Global Creative Director of Glamour Hair salon in Abu Dhabi, and a member of the British Hairdressing Hall of Fame, Tracey has done more than most in the industry, but there’s still plenty more she is determined to achieve and she is leading the way for women reaching the top. With a busy schedule keeping her in demand all over the globe, Tracey hasn’t always been able to come home to Scotland as often as she’d like so when she was announced to be making an appearance at the Fellowship for British Hairdressers Scottish Masterclass event in Edinburgh in November it was naturally a sell-out. There she spoke about the lack of women alongside her at the very pinnacle of the industry so we wanted to know if the industry as a whole needs to change its ways. “No, I just think it’s time that women get a bit more recognition,” Tracey tells us. “I love many male hairdressers and am as guilty as the next girl of following successful men in the industry but I’m really trying to push us girls to look closer at what each other are doing and to keep trying to be recognised for our work ethic and our passion.” 20 | SalonNV Magazine

For Tracey that means the hairdresser sisterhood needs to band together a bit more and help one another out. With 80% of hairdressers being women, yet only 3% of celebrity hairdressers being women, clearly more can be done to get women to the upper echelons of the industry. She says: “I think more women need to support one another and join together to create a real womanhood in the industry. We also need to be more aggressive to get our work noticed, and just be seen more.” Tracey is no stranger to sharing the secrets to her success to do just that, leading the way internationally with her bespoke education and training courses to nurture along talent and boost standards in hairdressing. Like everything Tracey does, she puts her heart and soul into crafting tailored sessions that suits the needs of her clients whether they are apprentices mastering the basics, or experienced pros looking to add to their expertise.

She believes the personal touch “adds to the inspiration,” saying “it helps trainees see how they can do it, be it, touch it, believe it. To have that one-on-one time with industry insiders can only breed excitement and add an element of passion to a working year. Also they can learn the industry secrets, sharing the knowledge is key.”

second to none… and the company have become like my family.”

With the top level of the industry being male dominated as Tracey says, it makes her achievements all the more impressive. Four-time winner of Scottish Hairdresser of the Year, winner of Men’s Hairdresser of the Year, and being crowned Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year in 2013, Tracey’s career has been a never ending run of successes, with the latest being the Terry Calvert Image of the Year Award.

Tracey says: “It’s definitely interesting, but it can be a juggling act and can be hard. I miss my family who are super supportive. I’m really enjoying my role in Glamour UAE at the present. I feel I’m really making a difference out there and love the team who are so talented.”

The image came from her incredible Candy Pop Collection and despite her numerous awards, Tracey’s joy at winning hasn’t been diminished. She says: “It was an awesome win! I was proud to receive it and I loved the collection. It was fun and exciting to produce. It was inspired by youth culture and the rise in clients letting you do a bit more, and also inspired by Affinage’s colour ranges. I often shoot around what we have new coming out product wise.” Her time at Affinage is certainly proving inspirational and it’s clear Tracey has taken to her role at the major brand with passion and enthusiasm, and Affinage have taken to her just as fondly. As Global Brand Ambassador there’s no limit to where her work takes her and Tracey is revelling in it. “My role is really interesting and takes me all over the world which is exciting,” she beams. “I am responsible for all their global collections from start to finish, for creating all global imagery, for creating new techniques and education and shows. I feel very lucky to head up a brand which I feel is really making progress. The colour is

Alongside her role for Affinage, Tracey has taken up a post as Global Creative Director at Glamour Hair Salon in the United Arab Emirates, meaning she has to spend time each year in many varied locations, which can be as challenging as it is rewarding.

With a permanent move back to Scotland set for June, Tracey is returning home to the place that started it all, where she built her reputation with her salon Angels and became one of the most respected talents in the hairdressing community. As well as excitement about her return, Tracey is full of agreement when we say that Scotland as a country seems to punch above its weight when it comes to quality hairdressers. “This is very true and makes me super proud. Scots have a particularly strong work ethic and we are very focused on strong training regimes. We also have a good few brands in Scotland which really keeps us on top.” So other than the move back home, what else can we expect to see from Tracey in 2017? “Well I’m keeping busy… Just finished my latest collection for Affinage spring/ summer, it’s awesome! Off to the USA soon for some big shows and generally will keep working hard. I would love to receive a British Hairdresser of the Year nomination one day, that would be the ultimate goal in my life.” Still striving for success, must be that Scottish work ethic! We can’t wait to see what the year has in store for Tracey. www.SalonNV.co.uk | 21

Balmain Thermal Protection Spray Ultra-fine, and ultra-fabulous at creating an invisible thermal shield that protects hair against the remorseless heat of a blow-dryer, flat iron, or curling tong. Don’t take risks with heat damage, this leave in protection spray locks in moisture, seals hair cuticles, eliminates frizz, and is humidity resistant.

P R O D U C T S

£12.50 – balmainhair.com

Hot Tools Professional CurlBar A super simple, functional, and show stopping way to create amazing curls that last all day and night. Reduces the time and effort needed to achieve perfect curls, volume, and movement, thanks to its ergonomic design and 90° angle which eases the strain on the arms and wrists.

£100 – hottools.com

label.m Weightless Hairspray Launched at London Fashion Week, this is label.m’s lightest hairspray yet. A session-style essential, it’s designed to deliver a super-fine mist that’s 72 hour humidity resistant, offering a fast drying medium hold. It doesn’t leave sticky residue and is flexible enough to allow restyling throughout the day.

BareFace Minerals Full Coverage SPF15 Mineral Foundation Ultra-light, oil-free powder foundation that glides smoothly onto the skin for perfect flawless all-day coverage. Water resistant properties allow you to sweat, exercise, and even swim with the added confidence of your make-up staying in place longer. Cruelty free and Vegan Certified. Ideal for all skin types.

£12.95 - store.toniandguy.com

£14.98 - barefaceminerals.co.uk

Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe range Improving on a much-loved range is never easy but Schwarzkopf Professional have added revolutionary new bonding technology to make BlondMe better than ever. So now as well as bringing out those brilliant blonds, the bonding system transforms damaged, broken, and washed out hair.

Schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 22 | SalonNV Magazine

Cantu Haircare For clients with waxy, curly, and coily hair types, a salon trip isn’t always the best experience. But with Cantu launching in the professional arena through Sally, you can now ensure that even multi-textural hair types get a fantastic service.

P R OD U C T S

Sallyexpress.com

Show Premiere Dry Shampoo I used this loads when I was away recently. I found it was really light and brushed out, leaving hair feeling so clean. I also sprayed it in my own hair before bed and brushed it out in the morning and my hair felt freshly shampooed. Its gorgeous packaging adds to its appeal.

L’Oreal Tecni Art Volume Architect Thickening blow-dry lotion from L’oreal Professionnel that’s designed to build ravishing volume and beautiful texture into fine or delicate hair. It has a medium hold factor of three and also helps to protect the hair from the heat of your blow-dryer.

£30 – Selfridges.com

£8.85 – ellisons.co.uk

Hairapeutix Ultra Pre-Shampoo Revitalise, condition, and restore tired human hair extensions with this revolutionary pre-shampoo treatment. Designed to be used before washing your hair, which encourages the absorption of their unique treatment for long lasting, effective results.

£18.99 – preshampoo.com

Click n Curl I was gifted loads of sets of these fabulous brushes to us. They are lovely to use and work really well. The handle unclips very easily and the roller brush stays in hair very well. When removed it leaves a gorgeous voluminous curl. They are a fantastic item to gift to clients or to retail.

£33.99 – clickncurl.co.uk

Pamela Docherty Bridal Hair Specialist, Colour Technician | Asteria Bridal This month has been lots of hard work but so much fun. I have been judging bridal awards and was working at the national television awards both were amazing. I always take a selection or particularly fine hair products when I am doing session work away from Glasgow. I added a few new pieces while I was down in London and love them so much. Big thanks also to our friends at Click n Curl for providing me with lots of their amazing brush rollers to use on the celebrities to get them red carpet ready. Pamela Docherty has over 20 years of experience as a hairdresser and as well as being one of Scotland’s leading bridal hair specialists, she is a stylist to the stars. Internationally trained, she has worked alongside brands including Wella and Patrick Cameron. Pamela’s work has taken her to runways and events around the globe. From presenting models at the iconic Trend vision finals, to being crowned a Best of British hairdresser, she continues to be recognised for her creativity and expert eye.

HairENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 23

Remi Cachet Flat Weft Never standing still, Remi Cachet is introducing flat wefts across their range of weft hair extensions. The new style weft top incorporates a flexible adhesive and double-stitched lace top to hold the hair into the weft-style extension.

£239.00 – www.remicachet.com

P R O D U C T S

Balmain Paris Hair Dress Available in a quartet of ultra-hip ash shades sure to rock the worlds of the international fashion show set, Balmain’s Paris Hair Dress is a doddle to apply and creates a deluxe effect. A fine transparent strand holds the hair dress perfectly in place.

£42.25 – balmainhair.com

Zen Hair Pastel Tape Extensions Get the Hailey Baldwin and Kylie Jenner look with these pastel extensions. Whether you’re a session stylist looking to create something unique for a brief, or have clients looking to replicate a celeb style, they’re an easy way to inject a fun pop of colour into your looks. £48 + VAT – zenhair.co

Great Lengths Flowstrands Enjoy eye-catching colour without risking hair damage from bleaching or over-colouring with Great Lengths Flowstrands. With on-trend ombre and bright dip-dye colour variatians, ensure clients make a style statement. Flowstrands are applied using classic bonds, which can last for up to five months.

£78.50 – greatlengthshair.co.uk

Cinderella Hair Henley Pop-In Extension With a rubber-like material at the top that folds in half, it acts like a curtain, hiding the micro rings or keratin bonds from vision and also preventing the rings from rubbing on the scalp. Application is effortless, and it’s reusable for up to nine months.

£89.95 + VAT – cinderellahair.co.uk

Hair ExtensionsENVY 24 | SalonNV Magazine

Cirepil Narcree Blanche Wax User friendly and client comfortable Cirepil leaves the skin smooth, not sticky. When applied it glides on the skin and is simple to remove with non-woven strips. Best suited for dry and sensitive skin types on larger areas of the body.

PRODUCTS

£14.79 – ellisons.co.uk

Pevonia Preserve Body Moisturiser Infuse your skin with this creamy and light-textured hydrating emulsion which instantly improves your skin’s texture with a powerful combination of alpha hydroxy acids and repairing vitamins b and e. Preserves and replenishes hydration, combats dryness, and prevents chafing.

£27.55 – skinstore.com

St Tropez Lux Oil Bronzing Mist Spray Solution 1L Infused with Brazil nut oil and naturally fragranced with essential oils, this indulgent, yet lightweight mist is St Tropez’s most luxurious spray tan yet. Gives a natural golden tan that lasts for days, is streak free, and easy to apply.

£55 – alanhoward.co.uk

Strictly Professional Rose Warm Wax The belitas range of effective depilatory products the therapist with complete confidence and assurance in achieving the desired result. The waxes contain quality rosins to provide outstanding hair removal for all skin types. A luxury warm wax made from high grade gum rosins with added rose oil for its calming properties

£5.70 – dennis-williams.co.uk

SBC Body Firming Skincare Gel An invigorating and moisturising body gel which may help to firm, smooth, and restore skin radiance. Targeted daily massage and care deliver hydration, radiance, and a sleeker contour. Recommended for anyone concerned with uneven skin, lacking lustre

£27.50 – ellisons.co.uk

Crazy Angel Midnight Mistress Quick drying formula glides effortlessly onto the skin leaving an instant deep glow, Crazy Angel Midnight Mistress is infused with bearberry and moisturises and hydrates to leave skin silky smooth. The lush, fresh fragrance combined with naturally derived DHA and erythulose provides a gorgeous, deep, and long lasting tan, and the 4L bottle will keep resupply to a minimum.

£107.94 – crazy-angel.co.uk

Body, Tanning & WaxingENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 25

High Definition Brow Crème Long-lasting, waterproof, and smudge-proof, this multi-use product can be used to create a collection of different brow looks. Whether a strong, defined brow, or the on-trend, textured look with super-realistic hair strokes, it applies like a crème and sets like a powder.

£18.50 – beautyinhighdefinition.com

P R O D U C T S Mac Cosmetics Amber x 9 Eye Shadow This well-edited palette features a colour wave of amber hues that offer countless shade combinations. It provides an array of textures from matte to satin to frost for creating a variety of looks for both day and night.

£25 – maccosmetics.co.uk

Kiehl’s Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream Naturally derived, it helps skin renew itself and improves resilience for smoother texture and a more youthful radiance. Increases vibrancy and helps build a stronger skin barrier with newfound strength to bounce back from the visible signs of ageing.

£49 – kiehls.co.uk

Hourglass Veil Mineral SPF Primer With a red carpet and a night of photographs ahead, I used this primer as the first step of the make-up when I was getting my celebrity clients ready for the NTAs. It creates a soft, flawless look and keeps make-up picture perfect all night.

£20 – spacenk.com

Me Me Me Ultimate Contour and Highlight Kit All the celebrities absolutely loved their gift bags from Me Me Me Cosmetics backstage at the National Television Awards. A really affordable range of pro-level products – I’m excited to add this line to my kit. I particularly loved their contour and highlight palette.

£16.95 – mememecosmetics.com

Jennifer Peffer Jennifer Peffer Make-up | Asteria Bridal It’s been such a busy start to the year! January included judging the make up category of the Confetti wedding awards, and jetting to London to work at and attend the National Television Awards. Jennifer Peffer trained in make up artistry at London College of Fashion and Make Up Designory, Los Angeles. She is now based in Glasgow, where she has a make up studio in a five star salon; she is also half of bridal beauty partnership Asteria Bridal. In addition to bridal and make up clients, Jennifer specialises in beauty & fashion work and has had her make up featured in magazines such as Red, Marie Claire, Ok!, Tatler and the Scottish Wedding Directory. She is also the make up artist of choice for several celebrity clients when they are in Scotland.

Skin & Make-upENVY 26 | SalonNV Magazine

Elemis Treat Your Feet Foot Cream Treat your tootsies the way they deserve. Infused with a loving blend of aromatic patchouli, eucalyptus, and lemon oils, simply massage this beautiful cream into your feet and let the stresses of the day lift away. Works to intensely moisturise dry and rough skin, leaving it soft and smooth.

PRODUCTS £20 – elemis.com

CND Almond Spa Manicure Hydrating Lotion For a silky-smooth hand and body lotion that quickly absorbs to leave skin with a soft, satin feel, you can’t go wrong with this effort from CND. The naturally light, fastabsorbing oil is great for keeping skin soft and supple. Use to enhance the massage portion of a manicure service and for retailing opportunities.

£14.99 – cnd.com

Skintruth Pedicure Kit The ultimate in foot care, this range from Skintruth will leave feet feeling soothed and relax, no matter how long your day has been. Every step of the way, from soak to scrub, you’ll find the perfect product to keep your clients’ feet in tip-top shape.

£31.99 - sallyexpress.com

Salon System NailLUX Brighten Hand & Food Mask Enriched with shea butter and sweet almond oil to soften and refine the skin of your clients’ hands and feet. It’s further enhanced with AHAs and papaya fruit extract to help smooth wrinkles and leave skin looking firm and healthy.

OPI Fiji Collection With its lush flora, exotic birds, tranquil seas, and soft palm-lined sands, it’s no surprise Jim Carrey wanted to escape to Fiji in The Truman Show. Now you can join him with these vibrant colours inspired by the islands’ lush unspoiled natural landscape.

£10.79 – sallyexpress.com opi.com

OPI Infinite Shine Primer and Gloss Exclusive ProStay technology provides up to 11 days of gel-like wear and shine. Offering one more full day of manicure wear, Infinite Shine utilises a three-step system featuring a base coat, colour, and top coat that’s engineered to deliver pristine results with easy, soak-free removal.

opi.com

Nails, Hands & FeetENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 27

KentSalon XL Curling and Straightening Brush Fantastic for creating the biggest curls in the shortest amount of time. With rows of short bristle mixed with heatproof nylon, this brush will allow you to give your clients perfect curls whilst promoting their hair’s natural shine

£33 – kentbrushes.com

P R O D U C T S Living Earth Crafts Cloud 9 Useful for a host of body treatment options including massages, facials, injectibles, pedicures, manicures... everything you need. The highly engineered design includes a UL listed lift actuator with an extensive height range, while the memory foam cushioning system makes it a virtuoso in comfort, function, and design.

£4,895 – ellisons.co.uk

Unite Rolling Case Rock up to session events in style with this fabulous rolling case from Unite. With compartments to store everything you could possibly need on a shoot or home visit, you’ll be the envy of every other stylist!

£130 – unite.co.uk

REM Natura Bliss Pedispa Chair A luxury, dual purpose manicure and pedicure chair, it features a pull-out stainless steel basin which can be removed for filling manually, which means there’s no need for plumbing or electricity. Comes complete with two removable finger bowls for manicures.

£1,289 – rem.co.uk

£14.79 – ellisons.co.uk

Furniture & EquipmentENVY 28 | SalonNV Magazine

Kaeso Skin Boost Collagen Gel From the Kaeso Galvanic Gel Collection comes this Skin Boost Collagen Gel enriched with mulberry and collagen to help improve skin tone and promote elasticity. Ideal for use with non-surgical facelift machines.

PRODUCTS

£8.10 – salonsdirect.com

Aromatherapy Associates Deep Relax Bath Oil Stress melts away in a bath and the Aromatherapy Associates Deep Relax Bath Oil is the ideal tonic to help you achieve relaxation. The unique blend of high quality ingredients helps you switch off for a restful, worry free night.

£45 – lookfantastic.com

Exuviance Age Reverse Total Correct + Sculpt Serum This dermatologist-developed serum packs a mighty threefold action anti-ageing punch; strengthening the skin’s matrix and building plumping collagen from within, leaving the face with more lifted and defined contours. Forget mastering tricky contouring techniques, this does it all from within the skin.

£58 – exuviance.co.uk

Vitamin E Overnight Serum-in-Oil Awaken to restored and nourished skin with this innovative, lightweight, non-greasy serum-inoil that replenishes and recharges skin with moisture overnight, leaving you looking fresher, more radiant, and rested.

£57.14 – thebodyshop.com

Neal’s Yard Massage Oil A blend of soothing essential oils in a vitamin-rich base that leaves the body and mind balanced and relaxed. It helps to keep the skin soft and supple, with organic sunflower, almond, and wheatgerm oils fragranced with uplifting geranium, relaxing lavender, and warming marjoram.

£55 – nealsyardremedies.com

Wellbeing & AestheticsENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 29

L A S A M A RIT A INE

Showc a se

30 | SalonNV Magazine

la samaritaine Hair:

Robert Kirby

Photography:

Benjamin Johnson

Make-up:

Sadie Hewlett

Styling:

Elisa Heinesen

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 31

SA LON

kam salons

Karen Thomson With its RAF base and picturesque location on the Moray Firth, Lossiemouth has long been a place to visit for both plane and dolphin spotters. But now you’re as likely to spot a trendy cut and colour or fashionable up-do, thanks to the efforts of Karen Thomson and the team at KAM Hair and Body Spa. Located almost 200 miles north of Scotland’s two major cities, Glasgow and Edinburgh, and almost 600 miles north of London, KAM had everything against it when it comes to becoming a must-visit salon in Britain but that’s exactly what has happened. Although Lossiemouth has a population of just 6,000, KAM can count on a constant stream of designer hair tourists, travelling from miles around for the most stylish looks. 3232| SalonNV | SalonNV Magazine Magazine

??????? but KAM’s development doesn’t seem to have been hindered too much by being in the far North East of Scotland and Karen is vocal in her love for her hometown. She says: “Lossiemouth is a small, beautiful coastal town and although it’s not on a bustling high street, clients come from miles around to visit the salon. Lossiemouth has regular holiday clients too, which is lovely to see as guests can come to our salon, having a break from their usual salon, and it’s a pleasure to give them the chance to try something new. I’m from Lossiemouth, grew up here, went to school here, and the town has always had a close place in my heart. It’s a great community, we have fantastic clients who love trying something new, and it’s great to support the town.” The salon

Lossiemouth born and bred, Karen has built her business from scratch as a teenager and looking back now, it’s unbelievable how much she’s achieved. “From starting the business when I was 17, I can’t believe how far KAM has come, 25 years on,” the British Hairdressing Awards finalist tells us as we reminisce on a quarter of a century success. “I would have never imagined we would become the leading hair and beauty destination in the North of Scotland and I am extremely grateful to have come this far and to have gained an enviable reputation.” How it began It’s a story of risk and reward, with a young woman passionate about the hair industry receiving the backing of her parents to make her dream a reality.

Karen explains: “From a young age I have always been interested in the hairdressing industry and have been obsessed with hair. At the age of 14 I started as a Saturday girl. It was hard work but I loved every minute of it and felt like I could wind perms in my sleep!

Creating an exceptional environment for clients to come in and feel pampered while receiving gorgeous, bespoke hair and top of the range beauty treatments has been key to KAM’s success over the past 25 years. The salon itself is has been lovingly designed to accommodate the full range of services they provide. Karen walks us through it.

“I started the business at 17 and was lucky that my parents were able to lend me the money to get it started. This was a business agreement and was paid back in full ASAP. My main challenge was finding a team and gaining respect as I was so young. I started small and threw myself into lots of courses, I was never scared of hard work and loved to please people and have happy clients.”

“When you walk into the salon there is a large retail area and reception desk and the salon opens out behind, with exclusive styling stations, a colour mixing zone, and a quiet zone for shampooing and treatments. All the chairs recline with massage options. The salon is very deceiving from the outside; clients are always commenting on how big it actually is.

Being in such a remote location can’t have been easy for Karen’s ambitions,

“A door in the salon leads up stairs to the KAM Beauty department. We have

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Customer service

four treatment rooms, a separate room for spray tans and a nail desk situated in our reception area. Our clients are always amazed how tranquil, calm and quiet our beauty area is in contrast to the buzzing, busy hair salon - it’s like a separate world! “Our reception area is open plan with a light airy feel and a hint of our beautiful, coastal location. Our rooftop windows provide a view of the sky and the weather outside. Clients enjoy the social aspect of getting their nails done within the reception area as they can see what others are having done, get ideas and have the time to browse through our colour options. “We make it our priority to see things as a client does, keeping the salon up to date and fresh, decorating regularly as needed. The same can be said as us as a team as we are constantly learning and evolving.” Training and Education KAM is truly a team effort and keeping the rest of the team at the top of their game is as important to Karen as

improving her own skills. She tells us: “Being a part of the Matrix Education Team, I know that training is of paramount importance to the hairdressing industry, not just for those at the beginning of their career, but also for the more established individuals who want to stay at the very top of their game. Not only do our weekly in-house training sessions cover important issues such as customer service and health and safety, we also make sure we have a lot of fun with inspiration sessions where we explore new cutting, colouring and styling ideas. We go through magazines, talk about what films are coming up and predict what styles our clients will ask for. The whole team experiments on mannequins - they are encouraged to let their imagination run free and even when the hair doesn’t go quite according to plan, they will still learn something. I get great feedback from my team at each of these sessions and they are a brilliant way to keep the team motivated and inspired.”

As everyone in the industry knows, customer service is the lifeblood of any salon and the response KAM has received from its clientele has always been secondto-none, and that’s down to the effort that Karen and the team put in. “Our professional hair stylists work hard to deliver fantastic results for our clients, taking into account the client’s personality, lifestyle, everyday maintenance, as well as their skin tone and face shape and our beauty therapists are trained to the highest standard and have a wealth of experience in a range of beauty treatments. “We constantly re-evaluate ourselves and aim to keep improving, it’s hard work but the day we stop is the day standards will slip, it’s so important to strive to be the best you can be. Customer service is on the top of our list, treat clients how you would like to be treated yourself is our motto! Clients always comment that the salon is so friendly, how much everyone gets on, and that there is never an atmosphere and this is extremely important to us we are so big on customer service. We have clients that drive two hours to come to the salon, which is great as we know that they really value our services.” 25 years of quality With such a catalogue of both individual and team honours collected over the past two decades, Karen admits it’s difficult to pick a favourite moment overall. Winning Trainee of the Year and Educator of the Year are both up there, as is being a finalist in the British Hairdressing Business Awards in two categories, but Karen says that her “biggest accomplishment is starting my business at 17-years old and growing it to the salon it is today, with an awesome team 25 years later. Having a happy team and seeing them do well is probably the most satisfying part of my career.” We can’t wait to see what they do over the next 25 years, but we’re sure it will be special.

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KAM SALONS Lucid Love Collection Photography: Jack Eames Make up: Maddie Austin Styling: Clare Frith

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 35

KAM SALONS Karen Thomson Collection Hair: Karen Thomson Make up: Carol McLuckie Styling: Ian Tod Hair: Karen Thomson 36 | SalonNV Magazine

KAM SALONS Kam Enchantment

Photography: Jim Crone Make up: Carol Wilson (of Sisstars) Styling: Ian Tod Hair: Ian Tod

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 37

Owner Guy Christian

GUY CHRI S TIAN SALON

elebrating 10 years as one of Wales’s premier salon chains this year, the team at Guy Christian can look back on a decade of wonderful achievements and continuing growth. In 2016 alone they were crowned Best Salon Design winners at the Welsh Hair & Beauty Awards and picked up the Best Cardiff Hair & Beauty award at the Cardiff Lifestyle Awards. Llongyfarchiadau! (That’s congratulations in Welsh, of course.) The plaudits keep pouring in, with another nomination seemingly announced every week. It’s a good time to be Guy Christian, and he is more than appreciative of the recognition his brand, and himself, are receiving. “It really feels amazing to be recognised by clients and peers in the industry for our efforts,” he tells us. “We spend a lot of time in meetings with our team to make sure they understand where we’re headed as a company and to try to make sure they’re as onside as possible. Receiving awards is vindication that we’re getting it right and that our message is being heard and implemented. I couldn’t be more proud and I know my team feel the same.”

38 | SalonNV Magazine

So how does a salon brand in its tenth year keep things fresh and in style? For Guy it’s a matter of perhaps admitting his own deficiencies and taking a cue from his juniors. He says: “I always tell our team that even though we do hair, we’re in the fashion industry. As an ageing salon owner (painful to say!), I always keep a keen eye on what the younger team members are up to so far as fashion is concerned to try and spot emerging trends in magazines, on the web, and in the media. If I spot something I think is going to be big, I’ll get the relevant training in and push that agenda via our social media channels.” And what does he foresee being big in 2017? “Balayage is still going surprisingly strong, and I think plaits and braids are going to get big this summer – I’ll need to get practising!” Putting together an award winning salon takes more than just talent and an eye for trendspotting, Guy has had to carefully craft and mould both his team and his salon itself to his exact vision – and a key component of that is making customers feel welcome. Guy says: “Customer service is paramount at Guy Christian Salons. We do extensive training on the way we talk to our clients (I ask our

team to pull up a chair when doing consultations among other things) and have a set group of questions we must cover with each client on every visit. We also talk a lot about body language.” It’s led to some famous customers choosing Guy Christian as their salon of choice. “We have some high-profile rugby players come to the salon, but not being into sport, it was a few visits before I realised how famous they were! We also have a contract with the BBC for them to send a few well-known actors our way as the filming studios are just across the bay from the salon.” As you can see from the stunning images, a lot of work has gone into the design of the salon itself, and it’s clear to see why they won Best Salon Design at the Welsh Hair & Beauty Awards - Guy has put his distinctive style throughout from the moment they started. He tells us: “When I opened the first salon 10 years ago I wanted something different to the minimal design everyone was trying to achieve and went for a rococo, boudoir theme. It was quite unique at the time and made us stand out from the crowd. However as time went by, more and more new salons popped up in a similar

vein, so when we opened our second salon in Cardiff Bay, I knew we needed to remix the idea with more of an edgy feel. I got this by leaving exposed concrete and brick in juxtaposition with opulent chandeliers and champagne rococo mirrors. We’ve since won an award for the design and was shortlisted in the British Hairdressing Business Awards for Salon Design.” But part of what makes Guy Christian Salons such a warm and welcoming place for customers is that Guy doesn’t chase the limelight, and instead regards something much simpler as the highlight of his time in the salon. “Winning awards has been great,” he admits. “But I can honestly say that I’m enjoying my job more than ever at the moment; my clients are my kind of people and coming to work, more often than not, feels like coming to see my friends.” So what’s next for this up-and-coming brand? “We already have a salon in Cwmbran that we acquired last year and I’m hoping to relocate our City Road salon this year. I’ve already got an offer in on a new unit in a more salubrious location, so watch this space!” We certainly will!

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 39

Catwalk Trends8

You might feel pretty confident that no matter who walks in your salon today, you’ll be able to give them exactly what they want. You’ll probably feel confident that 50% of the time you can guess what they want before they even open their mouth as you’ve been doing much the same styles for the past year. But with fashion show season in full flow, you need to update your style guide. So what can we expect customers to be asking for throughout 2017? We asked some of the top experts in the industry what catwalk looks they think will be trending this year.

Tracy Hayes, Fudge “Trend as we know it is dead, there is no trend. The trend now is celebrating the individual and their personality being true to themselves. This is coming across in hair and clothes and therefore on the catwalks. “The last Coterie evening of last year was actually titled ‘Are we witnessing the end of trends’, and sold out to standing room. “I would say this is all a reflection on the global uncertainty, and also to social media. With accounts such as Instagram, you are able to source instantly what is happening worldwide, and access to celebrities who are constantly changing their looks. “Personally, what I would like after the last year of grey heavy hair is to see softer lilac greys and silvers and smoky amethysts that give an ethereal appearance to the hair. It would also be exciting and inspiring to see harder graphic shapes within the hair after seeing for so long the softness of balayage.”

Jenny Pelter, Westrow Artistic Team PEARL BLONDE As popular as returning to those natural earthy tones were last season, with SS17 fast approaching, lighter blonde hues return to the runway, with sun kissed perfection. Chloé, at Paris Fashion Week, led the way with pearl tones on models for a softer and deeper transparency. With golden and caramel counterparts replaced with stunning pearlescent tones, this look radiates a blonde bombshell with a punk rocker edge, sure to be a hit in SS17. 40 | SalonNV Magazine

FRUIT PASTELS Pastels have been a hit for some time now, and this season is no exception, with models rocking the runways with soft candy shades that look set to be a bit hit for Spring/Summer 2017. At Vera Wang, pastel pink milkshake inspired hair was a hit, while at Marc Jacobs pastel dreadlocks made a huge statement. These colours will be perfect for clients looking to switch up their colour for the new season, and can be adapted to suit their skin tone and style. RAINBOW BRIGHT Orange hair was also a big hit this season, as showcased at MaxMara, PPQ and Ashley Williams. Here burnished tones of hot copper and pastel-hued hair colour made a style statement, moving away from the more red tones of seasons past. Although not for the faint-hearted, this is a stunning look that can be watered down in the salon to peachier, lighter shades – perfect for spring/summer. SPRAY PAINT HAIR One of the most exciting hair colour trends to emerge from Paris Fashion Week was Spray on Hair. Paco Rabanne’s show was full of models rocking slicked-back locks and boldly coloured tresses. Dominant tones such as red and blue, and prettier hues of lilac and pink brought the runway to life. This is set to be a huge trend this SS17 as it’s highly creative but no commitment is needed, perfect for clients looking to change their colour for the weekend.

Shelley Pengilly This summer we will be falling for warmer shades embracing everything from metallic coppers , rose golds, and blush bloranges. If you are a bit of a colour chameleon then milk_shake direct colours are perfect to create these colour combinations for a fun temporary look. Andrew Smith, milk_shake Ambassador 70s fringers and textured locks remain a favourite! Lazy waves combined with advanced balayage will take centre stage. 2017 is all about colour placement – colour will become more commonly used as a contouring technique to create the ultimate perfection that extenuates cheek bones and jaw lines. For the more daring there will be an advancement on 2016’s rose golds, silver, and pastel shades. 2017 focuses on soft blues and delicate greens. www.SalonNV.co.uk | 41

Mother’s Day March 26th

Felt the pinch at the start of the year? January and February are traditionally slow months in the hair and beauty sector as consumers slow their spending following Christmas and the New Year. Fortunately it shouldn’t be too long before we all get back to normal, and there are always retail opportunities to be found if you look for them.

42 | SalonNV Magazine

ays like Mother’s Day are marketable events where you can offer a whole range of services to those looking for the perfect pampering present. Whether it’s a “Bring your Mum to the salon” promotion that gives a discount if customers bring their mums along, or gift vouchers for them to use in their own time, anything that encourages custom into your

shop is more than welcome at this time of year and could have the benefit of turning one loyal customer into two There’s also a wide range of retail products you can sell in the run-up to customers who don’t necessarily want to spend the whole day in the salon with their mum, but still want to show their love and appreciation. Here’s a round-up of some of the best you should be offering.

MOA Facial Gift Set Help your mum reveal her inner goddess this Mother’s Day with this luxurious facial gift set from Magic Organic Apothecary, the independent eco skincare specialist. Contains their Aphrodite Facial Oil with hero herb and organic yarrow, combined with the healing powers of rosehip oil and purifying benefits of Damask rose oil which help rejuvenate stressed and tired skin. It’s perfect for dry, sensitive skin types prone to redness and blemishes from winter weather. Also included in the stunning keep-sake box is a bamboo face cloth and MOA’s The Green Balm, a multi-purpose healing/beauty balm. £35 – moa.london

Merumaya BlockBuster With a reputation as one of the top brands for skincare and anti-ageing on the market, Merumaya have put together a package of all their best selling items at a bargain price – the ideal gift. The six products include their Iconic Youth Serum which Vogue rated as one of the top 15 anti-ageing products on the market, Melting Cleansing Balm, Youth Preservation Moisturiser, Treatment Toner, Bi-Phase plus Eye Make-up remover, and Exfoliating Peel. £99 – merumaya.com

Mad Biscuit Lip Balms Not the biggest money spinner per unit, but how many of your customers will be able to resist picking up a custard cream or bourbon lip balm? None. And if there does happen to be one then they’ll surely pick up the jammy dodger one, it’s just a fact. A cheap retail price, fabulous design, and a great product for clients to supplement their Mother’s Day gifts. £3.50 – madbeauty.com Pevonia Mother’s Day Gift Set Presented in a Pevonia branded black velvet purse, this plush Mother’s Day gift set contains two fantastic products and with a free kabuki brush thrown in as well. The innovative YouthRenew Tinted Cream SPF 30 is a high performance moisturiser which provides smooth coverage for a flawless skin look. Lightweight and ultra-hydrating, this agedefying formula is rick in collagen, vitamin C, and green olive extracts to repair lines and wrinkles. The Mineral Body Shimmer powder is formulated using feather-light shimmering minerals, adding a radiant sparkle when lightly brushed anywhere on the body. Apply with the kabuki brush over face and/or body to create that ultra-glam look. £30.50 + VAT – pevonia.co.uk

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 43

Wedding Season

Asteria Bridal is Scotland’s most exclusive bridal hair and makeup duo comprising of make-up artist Jennifer Peffer and hair stylist Pamela Docherty. Business partners since 2012 they run a successful city centre salon and Asteria Bridal – as well as being involved in several other ventures in the beauty industry. Most recently as judges for the hair and make-up categories of the Confetti wedding awards, and shortly before working backstage getting numerous celebrities ready for the National Television Awards in London.

lthough the wedding industry itself is obviously a key focus for Asteria Bridal – having made the decision to continue building additional areas of their business has proven to have been a recipe for success. Jennifer and Pamela have both found that their presence and experience of the beauty industry as a whole – has made them the go to choice for brides looking for the complete package. Each year in the UK weddings are worth £10 billion – and can provide a brilliant supplement income to anyone in the beauty industry with the right approach. Currently 63% of brides in the UK spend on professional hair, make-up, and beauty treatments for their big day. So whether you are salon based or freelance you can and should be considering bridal and wedding bookings as a part of your business.

target marketing methods available on business social platforms, you can literally have potential clients’ direct attention at your fingertips. Think outside the box and network with other wedding industry professionals, swapping likes and comments with photographers and florists etc, will raise your profile through association. Build up a strong gallery of portfolio images showcasing your skills – organise a test shoot with a photographer and you can network while you expand your imagery. Don’t overlook more simplistic marketing methods – visit venues to meet wedding planners and leave some business cards for brides to pick up as they view.

You may choose to remain salon based and have bridal parties come to you – or you may decide to travel to them at their venue – work out what is most profitable for your business set up and market yourself accordingly.

Your bride may only be booking you for her wedding morning, but this is a great opportunity to convert her to a regular client, you will probably get to know your bride and her bridesmaids at trial appointments, what a great opportunity to impress and retain several clients at once!

A quick and current approach to marketing is obviously social media platforms. 88% of people change their status to ‘engaged’ within one week, and 42% of brides use social media to plan their wedding. With sophisticated

Brides tend to be looking for lots of different treatments, hair, make up, facials, tanning, nails – every bride wants to look her best on her big day – if you can’t offer all of

44 | SalonNV Magazine

Pamela

Jennifer

these treatments, forming a partnership, or hiring a specialist – can strengthen your appeal and increase your profit potential dramatically. You could even add retail products - hair treatments, hair extensions and tanning products are all highly profitable and can set you apart from your competition – who wouldn’t want to treat themselves to the whole bridal package from one trusted supplier or team? And not to overlook the ever growing male grooming industry, its right there in his name, the groom will need looking after too! Whether you are a high end barbers, or a beauty salon – many men go the extra mile for their wedding day. Specialist shaving, subtle tanning, skin care, manicures, and pedicures – they may not promote their beauty regimes as actively as the brides, but there is certainly a market there just waiting to be reached out to by your business. A wedding is such an important day for a bride – and for a beauty supplier it’s the perfect opportunity to make a potentially lifelong client feel special. Targeting weddings as an additional part of your business is a simple and profitable way to expand your core business and clientele long term. Conversion is key and bridal treatments are a perfect way to appeal to what may initially be a small market – but potentially your core customer group. Rarely do two industries come together as seamlessly as the beauty and wedding industries do – it can work so well to increase your business’ profile and ultimately profit – and to grow your clientele long term. Good luck!

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 45

ANYA DELLICOMPAGNI FRANCESCO GROUP’S DIRECTOR OF HAIRDRESSINGS WEDDING LOOKS

Brides For a bride her hair must be a compliment to the look of her dress and also a compliment to the theme of the big day. I always stress you should feel yourself, therefore, it’s important that the bride thinks about what they most feel comfortable with and especially when it comes to their hair and whether they feel more comfortable wearing it up or down. Although your hair should feel more beautiful than your everyday look, don’t plan on changing it for the day. So don’t feel you need to grow it for two years for the big day or change you hair colour! There are so many things your hairdresser can use to add length or volume, from clip in extensions to padding, to give a hold and fullness to your hair.

ANYA DELLICOMPAGNI

There are so many styles you can choose from, but there will be particular looks that will be more suited to your face shape and hair type. Creating a mood board of looks you like is a great way to give you a good starting point to go from. You can have looks that are on trend but try incorporating a classic twist so the look doesn’t look too dated when you look back on your big day pictures! Bridesmaids Continue the theme from the brides look, ensure it’s not too similar though; the bride’s hair should be the look of the day! I like to incorporate a varying look if there is more than one bridesmaid and it needs to adapt to suit the individual. Again, making everyone feel great is key and giving a bridesmaid a look they are comfortable with is extremely important. With all the bridal party, the look created should be realistic to stay in all day and night, so it’s no good having a look that will drop out in a few hours! Guests For guests, big and curly hair is always a fantastic look. Whether it be natural curls or curls created using tongs, team them with a ‘hair flip’ to

46 | SalonNV Magazine

create a deep side parting with a lift or take it further and add in some layers with a grown out length fringe to give a shaggy, easy wear hairstyle. To recreate curls, use a curling tong or a curling wand. Ensure the tong or wand has a small diameter, so you get a proper curl rather than a wave. Use a volume spray when your hair is wet and blast through, then take small sections and apply the curl with the tong/ wand. To create the flip, add a deep side part and gently backcomb, then use a fixing spray to hold into place. Nonchalant waves are a really big hair trend for 2017 and are a great look for guests at weddings. This is a flat wave that gives the hair a natural texture without too much volume. To create a flat wave, first use a texturising spray to add some texture to the hair. Using

irons, take big sections of the hair and pinch in different directions to create a flat S shape, then once applied through the hair using your fingers brush through to diffuse the texture. Ponytails are another great look for guests and are easy to create and there are styles that suit everyone. Team your ponytail with a texture to make it look effortless or go for a super sleek ponytail style to give a chic statement. Accessorise your pony with a ribbon or diamante clip for extra sparkle! Sleek styles that we saw being a huge trend in 2016 remain popular for 2017 and are another great style for wedding guests. Ensure your locks are oozing with health and shine for this look. For a statement going out look, add a strong gel and use it to gel all the hair off the face or sleek one side behind the ear. This look works best when it looks super shiny, so once the gel is dried, spray on a gloss spray to make it look mirror like.

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Wedding

1 Entranced

Hair and clothes: Anna Sorbie

Photography: Paul Gill 48 | SalonNV Magazine

Showcase

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step-by-step Fudge x Mazella&Palmer Step-by-Step Colour Formulas A – Speed Powder Lightener + 6% Catalyst Crème Developer 1:2 ratio. B – Headpaint 20g 9.2 + 20g 10.13 + 20g 10.0 + 1g 5.22 + No Lift Catalyst Crème Developer 1:2 ratio roots to ends. C – Paintbox Coral Blush + Lilac Frost equal parts D – Paintbox Lilac Frost

50 || SalonNV BarberNVMagazine Magazine

Step 1

Step 2

Full regrowth application Formula A. Visual development, max 50 minutes.

Full application of Formula B. Developed for 20 minutes.

Step 3

Step 4

Rectangular subdivided on top of the head. Vertical rectangular section subdivided in front of the ear including hairline.

Back to back slices using Formula D placed on half of the section (silver foils).

Step 5

Step 6

Back to back slices using Formula C placed on remaining half of the section (gold foils).

Vertical section on hairline in front of ear â&#x20AC;&#x201C; subdivided applications of Formulas C and D.

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Step 1

Step 2

The sections are taken on the top of the head to create movement and impression of volume on this look. 1-Square section on the top of the head. 2-Triangle section at the back to give body at the crown.

The side is cut using a Foundation Square Line technique. All the sections are cut below the comb to ensure minimum elevation. Choose a suitable length from cheek bone to jaw line.

Step 3

Step 4

The nape area is cut using a Foundation Round Graduation technique. All the sections are connected from the front and run towards the center back. Both sides are cut the same way.

Refine the outline using the point of the scissors. It is very important to use a curve feeling on the shape of line to ensure a more feminine look to the shape.

Step 5

Step 6

The square section on the top of the head is cut on a lower elevation using an over direction. All the sections are pushed to the first one. This will give an asymmetric feeling for the fringe.

Finally the triangle section at the top is cut using a square layer technique, giving movement at the crown and leaving more length towards the occipital bone.

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䬀愀爀洀椀渀匀愀氀漀渀匀攀爀椀攀猀倀爀漀昀攀猀猀椀漀渀愀氀刀愀渀最攀

眀眀眀⸀欀愀爀洀椀渀栀愀椀爀琀漀漀氀猀⸀挀漀洀

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Boogie

Concept: Enrique Serrano Photography: Danniel Rojas

Assistant: Ruben Valejo Hair: Salon Gaudi Make-up: Adrian Rux Styling: Arturo Arguelles Nails: Salon Gaudi @O.P.I. Products: I.C.O.N. Models: Jennifer Bucovineaunu and Alessandra Ching

Showc a se 54 | SalonNV Magazine

Opale

Hair: Marilyn Biache Photography: Pascal Latil Make-up: Stephanie Joffroy Styling: Maison Ludovic Winterstan Model: Sarah Guerre

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Enjoy

Hair: Eric Maurice Photography: Pascal Latil Make-up: Laurie Hadji Styling: BCBG â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Luxembourg

Models: Cindy Raba, Justine Nicolas, and Angelique Hivert from Modinlux Agency

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Summer Glow

Hair: David Di Bartolo Photography: Daniel Pister Make-up: Melanie Di Salvo

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Bliss

Hair: Sophie Baucais Photography: Weronika Kosinska Make-up: Izabela Szelagowska Styling: Marcin Kulak

Model: Joanna Kudzbalska Shoot coaching: MK Production - C.Gaillet

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Bliss

Hair: Sophie Baucais Photo: Weronika Kosinska Styling: Marcin Kulak Make-up: Izabela Szelagowska

Model: Joanna Kudzbalska Shoot coaching: MK Production â&#x20AC;&#x201C; C.Gaillet 60 | SalonNV Magazine

Underground

Hair: Felicitas Ordas at

Felicitas Hair Assistants: Felicitas Hair Team Photography: Esteban Roca Make-up: Visori Fashion Art

Products: Revlon Professional

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veryone loves an underdog story, and when one of the little guys brings a successful challenge to the established big boys, it brings a smile to your face.

Behind the Brand Hair & Beauty World Everyone loves an underdog story, and when one of the little guys brings a successful challenge to the established big boys, it brings a smile to your face.

Five years ago, two men decided the hair and beauty industry was crying out for a new, more customer-orientated, trade-only shopping experience. After bringing in an old friend to round out their management trio, they’ve utilised over a century of industry knowledge between them to establish Hair & Beauty World as Scotland’s full service shop. They are Sean MacDonough, Michael Connolly, and Joe Coubrough. The Hair & Beauty World Ethos In a short space of time they’ve achieved just that, opening four successful stores throughout Scotland, bringing American brands to the country for the first time, and forging countless personal relationship throughout the industry. Joe tells us they believe they’ve found the perfect combination between business and knowledgeable friend. “What we’re trying to create is a one-stopshop. Salons can come in for trade advice, we have genuine interest in their business. Not just a convenience shop to come in and buy – somewhere they can come in and say ‘I want to grow my business, and we say let me show you how?’” Supplying more than just goods is the Hair & Beauty World secret. Good old-fashioned customer service is a dying art but Joe, Sean, and Michael believe in going the extra mile to keep their clients satisfied. “The biggest thing we have in the trade is customer care,” says Sean. At Hair & Beauty World, no-one, from Michael, Sean, and Joe, to delivery drivers or shop assistants, is above the rest of the team. There’s not one member of staff that wouldn’t drop in an order on their way home. Joe agrees that it’s an important part of the personal experience at Hair & Beauty World.

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“Salons like to see the company they are working with go that extra mile. “The number one focus is our customers, when they come into a store or order from us, it’s vital that we give exceptional service in all instances. That level of service does not come easy, it has been built up through many years of experience dealing with salons.” Hair & Beauty World might be a relatively new brand but the depth of knowledge and customer relationships are exceptional. As well as keeping the customers happy, that all-for-one, one-for-all spirit boosts workplace morale and keeps Hair & Beauty World’s staff turnover extremely low. Indeed, as we sit in the Paisley branch, the manager here Margaret Kerr has worked alongside Sean for the best part of 30 years and fits the profile that Hair & Beauty World look for in their staff: good with customers, good with hair, good with people, and good with their colleagues. And of course they recognise that what’s best for their staff is best for their brand. When it comes to brands, the Hair & Beauty World team line-up is getting stronger every year. Too numerous to mention all but with every store being trade only, it gives the salons confidence that they can get brands that are exclusive and only available to the professional market. New Business is a key part of growing the Hair & Beauty World brand and being trade only is a vital part of that message salons like to hear. “We’re only four stores but we’re not going to stop at that, there’s exciting times ahead,” says Joe. The hair and beauty industry certainly is packed full of good people, and it’s hard not to feel that the team at Hair & Beauty World are among the best of them. With the customer coming first and some exciting brands only available through their stores, it’s no surprise that the salon community in Scotland has taken them into their hearts.

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Hair & Beauty World Store Locations Unit 7, North Harbour Estate, Ayr KA8 8B 01292 285050 Unit B, Pitreavie Business Park, Pitreavie Cresent, Dunfermline, KY11 8UN 01383 730505 Unit 1 first floor, 39 Underwood Road, Paisley, PA3 1TQ 0141 887 2167 7 N Harbour Street, Ayr, KA8 8BN 01292 285050 www.SalonNV.co.uk | 63

IT’S TIME TO EMBRACE THE CROSSOVER

Now we’re well in to 2017, hairdressers and barbers alike must start to consider the ‘crossover’ in order to avoid being left behind as the industry moves forward. Internationally renowned barber Joseph Lanzante talks about what needs to change and why.

he general difference between ladies’ hairdressers and barbers is that barbers haven’t always been taught how to layer long hair properly. They don’t often have the same skills as hairdressers who can use scissors and work with longer hair but on the flip side, they tend to be excellent with clippers, which hairdressers sometimes struggle with.

even a professional shave. Male pampering is surging ahead so this is an excellent opportunity to utilise the latest trends and boost turnover.

There are many institutional one directional barbers and hairdressers but both need to start looking at the crossover to ensure they keep up with competitors. Trends are changing and hair styles are getting longer for both men and women.

Now we are in the New Year you should be making a conscious effort to move with the times and the best way to do that, is to embrace the crossover.

We have started working with a lot of men’s and women’s salons to teach them the fundamental skills in each profession. By giving them the basic knowledge on both sides of the spectrum, they will then be able to adapt as fashions change as well as put their own stamp on the styling. There are numerous benefits to offering a variety of services including the opportunity to bring more money in to your business. By giving customers twice the service you have the ability to double your revenue, but you need to expand your skill set. Barbers will attract more men if they are assured in the knowledge that they can work with every hair style out there rather than just the traditional cuts. Equally, hairdressers could tap into a whole new market if they can offer an all-round service to everyone, such as couples, families, children etc. Husbands, fathers and sons wouldn’t have to sit and wait while their female counterpart has her hair done, if they can also receive a treatment, be it a haircut or

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The styling industry is fast moving, but if you offer a dynamic service and ensure you and your team are confident and familiar with all of the basic techniques for any length of hair, your salon will make more money – simple.

Many students from the Joseph Lanzante Training Academy have been hairdressers who have utilised their new barbering skills to add another dimension to their salon. Twenty-six-year-old, Ryan Wilkins from Rage Hair in Tamworth came with his creative director Richard Potts to Joseph for the shaving course. He watched Joseph’s YouTube videos on shaving and decided to expand the second tier of his salon to create a barber shop with a shaving room. He said: “As a new business owner it was something I thought wouldn’t hurt to include some additional skills sets to the salon. “I think it is important for hairdressers and barbers to learn at least the basics of one another’s trade, because it can really help with your scissor technique. Once you can master the scissor over comb as a hairdresser it will really help you. “From a business point of view, male grooming is the fastest growing area in the beauty industry and men are changing the way they think about their hair. They are also more regular and loyal to their barbers so we thought we best keep up with the times.

“We went through the ins and outs of how to do a shave for different clients. He showed us how and why we would use certain methods for different people and taught us how to tailor the shave to each person individually.” Katie-Jean Reeve, salon manager of Virginia’s Hair Salon in Devon, completed Joseph’s shaving course with five other staff members. She commented: “We are always looking to learn more and we decided to learn the wet shave with Joseph, feeling that he offered the best course and wealth of knowledge and experience. We chose the shaving because it seems to be up and coming and everyone is interested in it. We now offer it in our salon. “The crossover between hairdressing and barbering is important as it makes you more diverse. Men love the fact that they can come to our salon and have a treatment, they enjoy being pampered. From a business perspective, the more you can offer the more likely the customer is to come back. No one else in our town offers this service with the hot towel wet shave. It makes us stand out. “The course with Joseph was very informative. He teaches you how to build your wet shaving business as well as performing the wet shave. It is an invaluable amount of information within a short space of time which is great. Well worth the long journey!” For Joseph Lanzante course details visit: www.josephlanzante.co.uk/training/

To hear more from Joseph visit: www. josephlanzante.co.uk or call 01200 425 559 or follow Joseph Lanzante on Twitter @ JosephLanzante

BusinessNV

Emil Mcmahon

The Caretaker

Bespok e: the ch a ngi ng face of h a i r dr essi ng tr a i n i ng

espoke. It’s one of those buzz words that we hear bandied about on a daily basis. The hairdressing world has embraced bespoke hair cuts and colours for years, we have actively encouraged clients to be unique, be special, to stand out from the crowd, and it is something that has proved to be very successful, especially with the retention of clients who like the attention to detail a bespoke service offers, and the salon owner enjoys the inevitable increase in the clients bill. Product companies too are embracing bespoke services and products that create a point of difference for both salon owners and their clients, this helps create another point of difference between salons and their competitors. Of course bespoke stems from the world of fashion where it has been the norm for many years. Haute Couture and high-end designer labels offer services and garments that create something exclusively yours at a hefty price. If the urge is strong enough you can spend thousands of pounds having your own fragrance created, such is the desire to be different. And now (not before time) it’s happening in the world of education. Off the shelf, generic education just doesn’t do it for salons anymore. Training that is built around the specific nuances of a business and its team is what salon owners are asking for now. The benefits of bespoke cannot be underestimated, a trainer can create a training plan that has immediate impact on a business and it can generate a momentum within the team that leads to greater growth, better loyalty and a determination from everyone to

succeed together. There is a difference between bespoke goods and training though! As a trainer, I learn from each salon I visit about the implications of closing the door for a days education, the (obvious) loss of revenue has to be recouped somewhere and it…. The money….. impacts on what salons want to spend on a bespoke service. My objectives for any training session are simple, help grow the business, help increase the average bill, maintain existing client loyalty and generate new business. If that happens then it’s a job well done, however, as individual as each session might be it has to be affordable for the salon to invest in, it has to feel like something exclusive (which it is) but at a price that belies the time and effort it takes to build something truly unique, truly bespoke for each business. A challenge for sure, delivering something that is individual to each salon at a cost that makes it value for money takes as much time as creating a generic batch of ’off the shelf’ training sessions, but that just doesn’t work anymore, it’s not what salon owners want. We thrive on knowing that something is just for us - it certainly makes hairdressers respond better to the training when the information categorically relates to them in a personalised way - so for me, the endless hours building a training plan makes for exciting times in the salon, and that, in essence makes the bespoke nature of the training and the hard work that’s goes into developing it worth it every time. Emil McMahon offers bespoke training and social media caretaking. For more details email emil_mcm@hotmail.com or call 07885 985843

My objectives for any training session are simple, help grow the business, help increase the average bill, maintain existing client loyalty and generate new business

Emil McMahon offers training on all aspects of customer interaction and social media. For more details visit www.emilthecaretaker.com or email emil_mcm@hotmail.com www.SalonNV.co.uk | 65

Boost your salon with your own online agenda Today, we love to keep things simple and straightforward. In just a few clicks we can book a hotel, rent a car, or even buy a laptop, all online. The beauty industry has also embraced these new, convenient, online technologies. We are active on social media, send newsletters and automate our administration. You probably keep asking yourself whether online booking will pay off and streamline your work? Here are some reasons that might help you to make up your mind. Don’t let your phone get between you and your clients Recently we delved into our database to investigate the amount of appointments booked online and we discovered some noteworthy insights. Did you know that the majority of appointments are booked after hours? To be more precise, 52 per cent of the bookings that are made online via the Salonized online booking widget are made after hours. Hence, there is a great chance that you are missing out on a lot of potential bookings if you do not allow your clients to book your services online. Also, enabling the online booking widget will

reduce the amount of phone calls and text messages you receive during and after work. So you can focus on providing the services and building the relationships you love. Be in control and deal with no-shows Are you struggling with no-shows? Once again, online booking comes in handy. When scheduling an appointment, customers need to provide contact details such as their phone numbers and email addresses. Before each appointment clients receive automatic email or text reminders. These reminders reduce the chance of a no-show significantly! And the best part is that you

do not have to call a single client to remind them of their appointment. No longer “the usual” We spoke to one of our clients who had recently integrated the online booking widget into her newsletters and she noticed something remarkable. “Sometimes I use my newsletters to bring a specific service under attention, for example a massage. Clients tell me they did not even know I provided massages. After the newsletter I saw a big increase in the amount of massages that were booked online”. Also when clients search for their “usual” service in the online booking widget they see other

services that you provide as well. Clients have a stronger tendency to book an extra service online, this is something they usually don’t do over the phone. Why not try for yourself? An online agenda for your salon, is not as far fetched as it may sound. You do not need a super-fancy website to have your own online agenda. Within a couple of minutes you can integrate your online agenda on your company’s Facebook page, on the free Salonized mini-website or in your next newsletter. Eager to know more? Just visit our website and start your free trial account via: www.salonized.com/ SalonNV.

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Manicure money spinner? Rachel Gribble Salon System Educator & Expert Nail Technician

What can spas can do to make manicures and pedicures a more high-end experience? Manicure and pedicure services will typically be more costly in a spa than in a salon, which aspects do you think spas should focus on to convince clients to come to them for the service – rather than visit a high street salon? A spa needs to focus on the whole experience and not just the treatment itself. It should be a memorable, luxury experience. What tips do you, or would you, give spa clients when it comes to what they can add to a manicure or pedicure treatment to upsell and upgrade it, to make it a more luxurious experience for the client, and to help drive revenue for the spa? Try and make your treatment unique and unforgettable. Use paraffin wax, scrubs, and hand and foot masks or have petals floating in your soak bowl. Hot towels and mitts for removing products will make the treatments more relaxing and you can also incorporate a full arm and shoulder massage and hot stones to the treatment. To what extent would you advise spas to include manicures and pedicures in spa packages? Manicures and pedicures are the top and tail in beauty treatments, so should be part of a spa package. Manicures for men or women are fundamentally the same, with the exception of the nail polish, so make sure they appeal to both sexes by offering a good selection of manicure options (men usually tend to opt for a natural matte polish.) How important do you think the environment you create is? How key is it to make a more luxurious and relaxing spa environment part of the reason to choose a spa over a salon for manicure and pedicure services? And how do you in that case achieve that? The environment is crucial to a spa. This is what makes it a different experience to that of visiting a salon. For that, everything should be considered; the decor, furnishings, lighting, equipment, and products used, so that the ambiance is as relaxing as possible. What would you say the key trends for manicures and pedicures in spas (as opposed to salons) are at the moment? Paraffin wax treatments and luxury products are always popular and many spas are now offering Callus peels too. The trending nail treatment right now is the gel manicure and pedicure. Salon System’s Gellux range is my system of choice; it’s available in a huge range of colours and each polish dries within 30 seconds of application and leaves nails with a long lasting, ultra-glossy finish. Are there any general tips you would give spas when it comes to selecting the brand for their manicure/pedicure services to ensure that the products and treatments reflect the more high-end environment of a spa? Spas should invest in a range of manicure and pedicure products in order to cater for all clients and offer a wide range of different treatments. Naillux from Salon System is a very affordable range offering luxury products to incorporate in any manicure and pedicure treatment.

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Aesthetics

Dr Nestor’s Minimalist Manifesto – Beauty and Trends in 2017 Every year, it seems that there are new and different trends in the world of beauty and aesthetics; for instance, 2016 was certainly the year that Kylie Jenner held the most influence over aesthetic procedures, with clinics like my own reporting that lip fillers were the mostrequested procedure of the year, increasing 13% on 2015.

Words: Dr Nestor

However, in 2017, I’m certainly seeing the trend moving away from this look – the over-plump lips and cheeks and the frozen foreheads are, for me, on their way out, and a more realistic visage will be the choice du jour in the months to come. I am predicting that a more natural, prettier aesthetic will be the key trend of 2017, with the emphasis placed upon what looks believable, youthful and minimal – in fact, I am calling this style my ‘Minimalist Manifesto’. Health and fitness is at the centre of our society and our looks will start to reflect this. We are, as a nation, obsessed with healthy eating, working out and clean living – making sure that our bodies look and feel their best for the ages that we are. I truly believe that the time has come for us to feel the same about our faces – we are best off looking like ourselves, but fantastically natural and healthy for our ages. The backlash against the overtreated face has begun! Part of my reason for predicting this look’s popularity is the similar look of the actresses set to star on the big screens this year. Actresses such as Emma Watson, Brie Larson, Natalie Portman, and Gal Gadot will all be starring in huge Hollywood blockbusters in 2017, and their low-maintenance kind of beauty is sure to be the look that every lady wants to recreate. When I say ‘low-maintenance’, let me be clear: we’re not talking about ‘giving up’ on your beauty here. Instead, I think women will be leaning more towards choosing a healthy, fresh luminous look. Just taking one glance at the actresses I’ve mentioned above and you’ll understand what I mean. I feel that the trends will move towards a less ‘flashy’ aesthetic; we’re no longer chasing an unrealistic vision of youth, instead clients want to look like themselves, but as I always say, ‘themselves on their very best day.” As part of this look, I’m predicting a rise in requests for fillers in various areas of the face (lips included) – but done in a much subtler style than before. One thing that all of these

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actresses have in common is an almost elfin kind of beauty, youthful but unusual and completely beguiling. Emma Watson will certainly be the name on everyone’s lips in 2017, as she embodies Disney’s Belle in the new version of ‘Beauty and The Beast’. Emma has grown into a world-class beauty, as this casting would suggest, but in an entirely attainable way. I expect more clients to look to emulate Emma’s natural aesthetic this year – focusing on her eyebrows, cheeks, chin

and lips in particular to recreate her classic beauty. Botulinum neuromodulators such as Botox can help lift a lazy eyebrow into an eye-widening arch, to emulate Emma’s sophisticated brows. Her brows are thick and full, which are of course a classic look in their own right, but her gentle arch ensures that her brows don’t look too harsh or heavy. Subtle placement to lift the arch of the brow can give a beautifully elegant look – no permanently

Aesthetics

surprised brows or frozen foreheads here, it’s all about crafting an understated effect.

Emma Watson

A feature that both Emma and Natalie Portman share is their feminine but strong chin, which elongates their faces and creates the perfect pixie-esque point. If your own chin is lacking in definition or structure, subtle fillers in this area can restore or create a radiant jawline that invisibly lifts and defines your whole facial structure. Dermal fillers, properly used, can result in a refined look to the face a la the icons of the silver screen. Think about it; you never see an actress with a doughy chin, do you? Now, I know that I’ve said that lip fillers were the big look of 2016, but I definitely feel that they’ve still got a very high demand for 2017 – just in a different way. Kylie Jenner-style, plump and pouting lips are overdone and a tired look now; this year I think we’ll be seeing many more sculpted, youthful pouts. For example, Gal Gadot has the most exquisite Cupid’s bow, which I believe practitioners should always respect when performing lip filler procedures. The Cupid’s bow cannot be created from nothing, and if the lip is over-filled, the shape will be lost, creating those sausage lips we see all too often. Advanced techniques in aesthetics now mean that cosmetic doctors can reinstate this beautiful feature in older lips, and accentuate it softly in mouths that have lacked. With lips, ratio and proportion is always key too. Gal’s lips are naturally beautiful and full, but you can clearly see that her bottom lip is

Natalie Portman

fuller than the top one – this is the way that lips are, and this is the way that they should remain even with filler. Once the top lip becomes bigger than the bottom, we end up with the dreaded ‘duckface’ pout, which looks neither subtle nor elegant. With all of the ladies I’ve mentioned here, it’s of course relevant to remind ourselves that these women are all under 40 and of course, have access to the best skincare in the world to ensure that they all look wonderful for their ages. But that is what they look; each and every one of them looks fabulous for their ages, with a youthfulness and a radiance to their skin which may be incredible genetic luck – but that’s no reason to say that you can’t emulate their look to the same effect. A soft sheet of a thin filler in the forehead would help to create a lovely, youthful convection in faces that are looking a little tired, where subtle fillers can also be used the cheeks to add height and a fresh plumpness. The key is to think about your own face and when you felt like it looked its best, or ways that you feel it could be improved. If your weak chin or thin lips have always been an issue for you, fillers can help to create the look you’ve been searching for – and if your eyes have always been the part of you that you wished were different, this can be amended too. It’s all about picking and choosing your procedures carefully, to minimally enhance the face you were given – the best result is one that ensures that you look just like you, only with that extra touch of sparkle. www.SalonNV.co.uk | 69

elbereth

htereble Showc a se

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ELBERETH Hair:

Jose A. Chamborro at Lagasca Styling: Eunnis Mesa

Photography:

David Arnal

Make-up:

María García

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PRODUC T

Editor’s Comment Whether you’re the biggest brand in the world, or an independent store with a good idea and the heart to make it happen, what we love about the barbering industry is that everyone gets a fair shot. If you can supply a quality product, customers will embrace it – that’s what we’ve seen with the recent shaving skincare range from American Crew, one of the industry’s big boys, but we’ve also seen it from Riverside Shave Co. barbershop in California who are selling worldwide just through Instagram. The times they are a changing, but we love it.

American Crew Shaving Skincare Range Five products, one great shave. Formulated to not only provide a top class shaving experience, but also to moisturise and revitalise the skin underneath, American Crew has come up with a range that will not only work in your shop but also makes for a great retail opportunity to satisfied customers. The Ultra Gliding Shave Oil prepares the skin for shaving and can be used under the Precision Shave Gel or Moisturising Shave Cream. There’s also a Protective Shave Foam so can meet your clients’ demands regardless of what they are. Finish them off with the Revitalizing Toner to refresh just-shaved skin. Mankind.co.uk

Black Label Grooming CraftClay Manchester’s finest, Black Label Grooming are making a name for themselves with a range of styling products that cater for every hair type and desired look. The contemporary design, sleek black and slick, is only bettered by the products it holds. Our favourite is the CraftClay – derived from Bentonite, a weathered volcanic ash, it adds body, thickness, and structure to hair, creating a lovely earthy texture with the hold and strength you need.

KEVIN.MURPHY ROUGH. RIDER Tough and rough, Kevin Murphy drew on the classic Teddy Boy hairstyles of the 50s to create a product that would allow for hair to be piled on top of the head and moulded and sculpted into shape. If you want volume then ROUGH.RIDER is the product to have, combining a mixture of wax with diatomaceous earth (no we don’t know what that is either, but it’s made up of 89% silica which stimulates hair growth), you’ll be crafting looks that hold high and look huge no matter what.

£12.99 – blacklabelgrooming.com

£20 – kevinmurphystore.com

American Deluxe Pomade Among the laid back beach curls of SoCal, one brand is bringing back the slick pomps and smart quiffs we all admire. American Deluxe Pomade is from the team behind the Riverside Shave Co., one of California’s coolest barbershops. With the extreme heat of the US west coast proving a difficult test for many normal pomades, American Deluxe stands up to the conditions – it doesn’t melt, holds strong, and lasts all day. With worldwide shipping you can get your hands on something your customers won’t have experienced before but that they won’t forget in a hurry. Instagram - @americandeluxepomade

Male groomingENVY 72 | SalonNV Magazine

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Simon Shaw The life and times of the wahl clipper mogul

An Interview with Larry The Barber Man 74 | SalonNV Magazine

If there’s one name that just about everybody in the barbering and hairdressing industry is familiar with, then it has to be Simon Shaw: with his enviable role as Wahl’s European Artistic Director, he is in a position that many other barbers dream of, and his work with Wahl’s Artistic Team never fails to impress.

With all that in mind, I’ve been delighted to have not only had the opportunity to carry out a deep and informative interview with Simon, but to now be bringing you the fascinating story behind his career with this article. From a monthly column exploring men’s grooming to an incredible range of different training courses and, of course, the innovative approach that he’s become famous for, Simon’s got a huge reputation and a lot of advice to share. From the earliest stages of his career to some of the most recent projects, let’s explore the barbering life of Simon Shaw.

“I’m very fortunate, and I think that drives me forwards”

One of the first things that Simon and I discuss is just how fortunate he is to have found himself in the role of European Artistic Director for a company as well-established and well-loved as Wahl. When you look at a hair stylist in such a high-profile position it’s easy to say that they’ve been lucky; really, of course, luck had nothing to do with it – it’s all hard work. Simon describes his early career, and how he pushed himself up through the hair styling ranks: “How it all started was a little bit weird. I was working for a big group in the north of England, Dimensions – I started there in 85/86. I was a hairdresser, and I started doing some shows for Goldwell, and I was doing photoshoots, getting front covers of Hairdresser’s Journal, doing lots of shows for Goldwell. Then they opened up their academy in Mayfair in 1995, on Sackville Street. It was the all-singing, all-dancing thing at that point. “So, between 95 and 2000 I did around 300 courses for them. I was their most – I say the Yorkshire word – I was their most ‘used’ presenter. Within that period, during that journey working in Central London, I met a guy from Wahl who at that time was their professional sales manager in the UK, and he asked me to go on and do some exhibition work.” From here, Wahl kept asking him to do more exhibitions until, in 1999, they gave him the opportunity to devise a clipper training programme for their new academy. This opened back in 2002 with just two courses on offer: now it’s a huge academy that also sealed Simon’s position as part of Wahl.

“So many people want to be on our team”

It’s certainly true, as Simon says, that barbers all over the world want to be a part of Wahl, so for everybody reading this who aspires to one day joining their team I thought it was important to get a

sense of an average working week. To give me an example of his working life, Simon talked me through the week that he’d just spent on the road before meeting up with me: “So if we look at last week and this week – you’re as good as your last game. On Monday I was in Hereford at Aston & Fincher’s, one of our massive professional accounts. I was in Belfast, Tuesday, to meet the tailor who makes all the guys’ suits for Salon International and all our shows. Then I flew back from Belfast to do a seminar for about 80 people at Bolton College on Tuesday. I went back home on Wednesday night and got the train into central London on Thursday, where I did an in-store demonstration in Debenhams, joined by two guys from Ted’s Grooming Room, our barbershop of the year. Then Friday it was back to Yorkshire to repack my stuff and on to Kent for a two-day training course. “It’s every day, most weekends. I look at every Monday for probably 35 weeks where I can’t really have a good weekend because Sunday I’ve got to be travelling.”

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As somebody who spends a fair amount of time on the road in my own day-to-day life, I can only imagine what it must be like to have such a tight schedule planned so far in the head – which makes it all the more impressive that Simon still manages to find the time to spend with his family.

“I never switch off… Work is a massive part of my life”

With two children, three grandchildren, and a girlfriend to spend time with, Simon does occasionally find time to relax and unwind, but most of the time he has his nose to the grindstone! There are a few different key elements that make up Simon’s role: on the one hand, he is behind the new courses that Wahl’s academy will offer – so he has to be on top of the upcoming trends, and make sure that he can find the perfect educators for each course. On the other hand, he also teaches some of his own courses, getting stuck in and demonstrating particular cuts and techniques. “I would say my main forte is when I do the evening seminars. Flick and smack, a bit of music, entertainment – there’s nothing better.” That flick and smack is one of Simon’s trademark techniques, and he agrees to let us into the secret of how it was developed: “I was out in America, and the guy in America who did what I did at the time was using our texture blade, and the way he was using it just came out too bulky. So, I was talking to Johnny Baba, who’s a good mate of mine, and he tells me that two days a week in his kitchen he cuts hair at home. So, I came home and worked on it on my own, just mastered it. Then we were in South Africa and I asked the DJ to turn the music up because you need rhythm, and that’s where cut to music came from. The rest is history.”

“We’re trying to convert some of the old-school barbers”

It might seem unlikely that a brand like Wahl need to convert anybody, but with their latest range of cordless tools they’ve got a little bit of education ahead of them, showing barbers that these clippers will give just as much power as a corded clipper, and easily last through the full length of a haircut (or several) without running out of power.

76 | SalonNV Magazine

Unsurprisingly, though, Simon has been gathering great feedback – and I’ve been hearing great things about shavers like the Finale and hair clippers like the Magic Clip Cordless during my own conversations with barbers. This is all down to the lithium batteries, which are quick charging, long lasting, and deliver all the power that a barber could need. Many barbers will also be interested to hear about Wahl UK’s plan to convert popular US clippers to the United Kingdom voltage. “It’s not because we’re lazy. It’s because the battery inside the American unit can’t necessarily be used here we have to wait until it’s right. We’re trying to bridge the gap though, and bring things out more quickly.”

“I can get quite emotional talking about this”

There’s so much more that I could share with you about Simon, but now that it’s time to wrap things up I wanted to look at what he sees as the greatest achievement throughout such a full and fruitful career: “I can get quite emotional talking about this, my biggest achievement is going into the shops, going into Harrods and seeing a shelf full of products with my face on the packaging: premier products. Everybody wants a product range, to see their products in shops like Selfridges, and that’s my biggest achievement in Wahl.” For any barber or hair stylist reading this who has ever dreamt of seeing their own name on the box of a popular product, I doubt it’s hard to see why this would be such a proud achievement for Simon! To follow in Simon’s footsteps, then – whether it’s to launch your own project or to land the barbering position of your dreams – what do you need to do? In Simon’s own words, and to end this in-depth look at his career:

“You need to be seen out there, but you need to be nice.”

All that’s left for me to say is a huge thank you to Simon for giving me the chance to find out so much about his barbering work: I’m sure that everybody reading this has found it just as enlightening as I did. Throughout the coming year, you can expect to see Simon at more shows and delivering more training courses as

he continues his life on the road. If you want to see more of my work, find me on Instagram (@ larrythebarberman), or YouTube (at barbers. tv): I’ll be looking out for you!

Since 1919, Wahl has been an integral part of the barber trade. We proudly continue the grooming tradition for todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discerning Gentlemen. The classically stylish range of 5 Star series traditional products have been designed to provide a luxurious shaving experience. AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT

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Hair: Julian Dalrymple Photography: Richard Miles MUA: Diane Alexander Styling: Clare Frith

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 79

March 2017 Training Dates Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

2nd March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

6th March

1 Day

The Ultimate Tape Course

Beauty Works Pro

London

£399.99

0843 289 5198

6th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

6th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Glasgow

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

6th March

8 Weeks

8 Week Beginners Makeup Course

Glauca Rossi School of Make Up

London

£6,100.00

0207 289 7485

7th March

1 Day

Pre-bonded and Micro-ring

Beauty Works Pro

London

£549.99

0843 289 5198

8th March

1 Day

Refresher Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£95.00

0844 801 3247

8th March

1 Day

Swedish Body Massage

Salon Services

Plymouth

£110.00

0330 123 1907

9th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

13th March

1 Day

The Complete Micro-ring

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£549.99

0843 289 5198

13th March

1 Day

The Ultimate Tape Course

Beauty Works Pro

London

£449.99

0843 289 5198

13th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

13th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Glasgow

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

14th March

1 Day

Swedish Body Massage

Salon Services

Colchester

£110.00

0330 123 1907

14th March

1 Day

Pre-bonded and Micro-ring

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£549.99

0843 289 5198

14th March

1 Day

Sienna X Prof Spray Tan Course

Sally’s

Swindon

£95.00

0330 123 1907

15th March

1 Day

Refresher Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£95.00

0844 801 3247

20th March

1 Day

The Ultimate Tape Course

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£399.99

0843 289 5198

20th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Glasgow

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

21st March

1 Day

Sienna X Prof Spray Tan Course

Salon Services

Glasgow

£95.00

0330 123 1907

23rd March 1 Day

Sienna X Prof Spray Tan Course

Salon Services

Liverpool

£95.00

0330 123 1907

27th March

1 Day

The Ultimate Weft & Weave Course

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£449.99

0843 289 5198

27th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

29th March

1 Day

Refresher Course

High Definition

Glasgow

£95.00

0844 801 3247

29th March

1 Day

Refresher Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£95.00

0844 801 3247

30th March

2 Days

2 Day HD Brow Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£1,395.00

0844 801 3247

30th March

1 Day

Swedish Body Massage

Salon Services

Poole

£110.00

0330 123 1907

Various

9 Weeks

Colouring & Perming Programme

Toni & Guy Academy

Edin,LDN, Manch £4,740.00

020 7836 0606

Various

5 Days

Creative Cutting & Colouring

Toni & Guy Academy

Edin,LDN, Manch £1,000.00

020 7836 0606

Various

2 Days

Avant Garde Hair

Toni & Guy Academy

London

£800.00

020 7836 0606

Various

3 Days

Session & Editorial

Toni & Guy Academy

London

£600.00

020 7836 0606

Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering one day clipper cutting course

› Hot towel cut throat shaving one day course

› Barbering boot camp four day course

PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk 80 | SalonNV Magazine

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