SALONNV ISSUE 27
SALON Biggest Ever
SHABA
AUTUMN 2019
Discover new opportunities on e-chair.com
Have you tried our guest spot feature? Use e-chair.com to boost your career by booking guest spotting slots all over the UK, as well as finding chairs to rent in your area
Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules
Join today at e-chair.com
CONTENTS
I S S U E 27
60 JAY BIRMINGHAM
NEWS
8
FELLOWSHIP
12
62
BERNARD CONNOLLY
#SHABA19
16
64
HAIR STEP–BY–STEP
68
MUA BEST TOOLS
70
MIA CONNOR
72
HARLEY
78
PRODUCTS
91
COLUMNS
NAIL STEP–BY–STEP
26
LIGHTING IN SALONS
28
SOPHIA HILTON
32
BALMAIN LOOK
34
THE PERFECT BOB
38
CELEBRITY LINES
40
THE JOEY SPECIAL
42
AGELESS BEAUTY
50
110 NEW TO E-CHAIR.COM
INSTAGRAM GLAM
58
106 IN THE CHAIR
100 TRAINING DATES
Editor’s Comment The post–SHABA blues have set it. We’d like to thank all of our winners, finalists, special guests and anyone who helped make SHABA19 the hottest yet. In this issue, we’ve got our post–SHABA roundup and list of glamourous winners. Catch all the highlights starting on page 16... Inside this issue, Rick Roberts—who has recently won ‘Behind the Chair’—is our cover star and gave some inspiring advice for ‘In the Chair’. In our features, we shine the (day)light on nail art and how to create the best setting for the best nail work. We examine the world of celebrity beauty lines, Sophia Hilton talks about
how to make the most of that piece of interactive glass in your hand. When it comes to putting collections together, the styling is one element you should never overlook. An outfit can add the right shimmer and dazzle to any images. We chatted with one of the hair industry’s most sought–after stylists Joey Bevan and stylist, model and blogger Rebecca Donaldson. We also spoke to Jay Birmingham about his career to date, being a celeb go–to and retiring at 35! And turn to page 84 to see all the latest (and hottest) products on the market right now, and there’s more features, news and fabulous collections to be found in the pages of SalonNV.
Enjoy!
Jr
Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Head Writer Matthew McLaughlin | Graphic Design Cara Scott & Gary Kwok | Sales & Marketing Manager Kat Heron | Writer Lisa Boyle Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists: Emil McMahon, Lisa Shepherd and Michael Moran | Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 1st Floor, 27 Woodside Place, Glasgow G3 7QL Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and Gallus Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.
SalonNV Magazine | 3
THE OPULENCE COLLECTION
COS SAKKAS
“I wanted to create a collection of individual looks focused on what I love doing—styling beautiful and feminine hair with an editorial edge. Bold, glossed colours and powerful styling empower a feminine dominance that captures the beauty of opulence and strength.” COS SAKKAS, INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, TONI&GUY
Hair: Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY, London Photography: Jack Eames Makeup: Lan Nguyen–Grealis Stylist: Sara Dunn 4 | SalonNV Magazine
SalonNV Magazine | 5
DAVID MURRAY COLLECTION
6 | SalonNV Magazine
“The inspiration for this collection came from wanting to play with bold color and experiment with different and alternative techniques. You don’t very often get a chance to be so free to use so many intense shades, but I wanted to show how you can use strong color and avant–garde styling and still make it look beautiful. I used the JOICO Color Intensity range and JOICO Vero K-Pak Color to create all the looks.” DAVID MURRAY
Hair: David Murray Photography: Tony Le Britton Make–up: Roseanna Velin Models: Ros Model Management Products: JOICO
SalonNV Magazine | 7
I N D U S T R Y NEWS Welcome crackdown on aesthetics training companies The demand from the public for aesthetic treatments is growing and as a result, salons are looking to upskill their staff which means training. Additionally, the number of companies offering training courses in aesthetic treatments is also growing. In the interest of public protection, it’s more important than ever that courses are reputable and don’t mislead salons and trainees as to what they get for their money. Salons should know exactly what these courses cover, the nature and duration of the training and the qualification they will get, particularly if the training provider claims the qualification will meet the entry criteria for professional registration with the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) or other industry bodies. The UK’s advertising regulatory authority, the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA), has recently investigated three complaints referred to them by the JCCP. The ASA upheld the complaints in all three cases, saying the providers had misrepresented or withheld full and correct information for potential students to be able to make an informed decision before signing the contract for their place on the advertised courses.
Caroline Larissey, NBF’s director of quality & standards said, “Salons need to be confident that they are getting the right training and are not being misled. “Last year, the NBF published a ‘first of it’s kind’ free guide to the qualifications and training needed for hair and beauty treatments from level 2 right up to aesthetics treatments at levels 6 and 7. “We always recommend that qualifications are accredited by regulated awarding organisations such as VTCT, City & Guilds, CIBTAC and others.” She added, “The NBF guide on qualifications and training has ‘assured advice’ status and is backed by Milton Keynes Council as the Primary Authority, which means that all local authorities recognise the NBF guidance. “We’re delighted that environmental health officers are already using it, and we know that beauty salons have welcomed it with open arms.”
Industry Charity Bike Ride Announced – Spain 2019 Saddle up and pick up the challenge as The Hairdressers’ Charity announces its 2019 Bike Ride fundraising break. This year’s charity bike ride will take place in the cycling mecca, Girona, Spain, where there is the largest concentration of professional cyclists in the world— and will cater for all levels of cycling. Places cost £499 per person from Sunday September 22 returning on the Thursday September 26. Cyclists will stay at the PGA Catalunya Resort, Lavida Hotel and the fee includes three nights half board, four days bike hire, two guides and transfer to and from Barcelona airport. In addition to the trip costs, fundraisers need organise own flights and a minimum donation of £250 to The Hairdressers’ Charity. There will be two expert local bikes guides who will create fun, challenging and rewarding rides, whilst touring beautiful scenic routes. The
8 | SalonNV Magazine
rides will vary between the different abilities within the group, with gentle routes, to very full-on adventures into the foothills and beyond. Spaces are selling out fast already, so do start to plan ahead! • 2019 Bike Ride cost overview: £499 per person (includes halfboard accommodation, equipment hire, guides and transfer) + £250 minimum donation to the charity.
Fancy treating your client to needle-free lip fillers? Filleron Professional has announced the launch of a needle-free injectable which can be used to fill lips and facial lines—and possibly remove your clients’ fear of hypodermic needles. The pen is claimed to be so easy to use that any medics or level three and two trained beauticians can perfect and hone their skills. Each customised cartridge holds and delivers any branded hyaluronic acid and mesotherapy cocktail of your choice. It’s claimed to ensure minimal down-time for clients as well as less skin trauma. The effects last around six months, after which more treatments may be needed to keep the desired result. Co-founder Tovah Sutherland said, “When I learnt that a few of my clients had a terrible needle phobia but also wanted mesotherapy or fillers, I searched for a solution. “This led me on to discover and train with an international micro-injection pen company. “Since then, I’ve honed my skills and developed on advanced techniques ready to teach others. “Anna and I launched Filleron Professional training in 2019, to instruct and advise qualified beauticians and medics on the correct use of the Needle-Free Pen on their clients.” • Tovah Sutherland & Anna Hunt on +447388 124962 or email info@filleron.com.
IMAGE Skincare are delighted to announce that they will be selling their products directly to consumers on their UK website – imageskincare.co.uk IMAGE Skincare was previously only available to purchase throughout the UK in over 300 accounts which include salons, clinics and spas. As the professional skincare brand continues to grow in the UK and throughout the world, the decision to sell online comes as a result of huge customer demand for more accessibility and the convenience to shop online;
but also to combat the issue of thirdparty unauthorised sites selling IMAGE Skincare products. By purchasing through these unauthorised re–sellers, consumers are at risk of getting products that have been tampered with, that are expired, or even counterfeit. Created by Janna Ronert and Dr Marc Ronert with their vision to help the world to ‘Age Later‘, their brand includes 11 collections and over 120 products. A small number of products however will not be available for purchase online and will still require an advance skin consultation from an authorised stockist, due to the nature of the high strength professional formulas that contain retinol. With the launch, imageskincare. co.uk will also feature an updated Salon Finder, which will make it even easier for consumers to locate their nearest authorised stockist for products and services. This will allow IMAGE Skincare to assist their stockists and grow their business by referring them
back into their local professional. IMAGE Skincare is committed to remain a professional skincare brand and to build strong relationships with their stockists by providing excellent customer service, world–class training and education, and providing the most innovative skincare products in the professional skincare arena. • For more information, visit imageskincare.co.uk
I N D U S T R Y NEWS
IMAGE Skincare UK launch online
IMAGE CREDIT: SOCIALBUTTERFLYMMG/PIXABAY
Making the backwash work for your business The backwash area is one of the busiest areas of any salon and done properly, is can be one of the most popular and profitable zones of the salon. According to Sharon Malcolm from Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing, Newtownards, Northern Ireland, making the area as relaxing and comfortable as possible for your clients should be the priority. “Having their hair and scalp washed and massaged is incredibly personal and clients should feel relaxed, pampered and cared for. It’s all about the experience, stimulating all the senses and making it part of their appointment they look forward to.” Here’s Sharon’s tips for making your backwash work for your business. • Lighting – have low, soft lighting in the backwash area. • Stimulate the senses – as well as the lighting, think about scents in this area. We use scented candles to complement the Schwarzkopf Professional treatments we use, or cinnamon-based scents during the festive season. • Music – our music is in the background in our backwash area; the ambience should be peaceful and relaxing. • Conversation – keep chit chat to a minimum, other that telling clients what you are doing and what you are using. Be aware of other clients in the backwash area who may not
Racoon Hunt for new voices in artistic team
want to hear your conversation. • Furniture – buy the best backwash units you can afford. We have fully reclined Shiatsu message chairs which adds to the whole experience. • Products – the backwash is the perfect place for you to treat your clients to luxurious massages and tailor-made treatments. • Advice – this is the perfect time to educate your clients about the right shampoo and conditioner for their hair type, which can lead to extra retail sales. • Menu – make sure your backwash services are included on your menu so your clients know they can add a special massage or service to their package. • Find out more about Sharon Malcolm: visit sharonmalcolm. co.uk or find her on Instagram: @chachachasharon @ sharonmalcolmhairdressing.
Hair extensions firm Racoon will be holding an X-Factor style recruitment day to meet new talent and ‘new voices’ to join their existing artistic team. Interviews are being held on Tuesday, October 1 at Wella World Studios London. Leading the team artistically is creative director Andrew Barton, a multi-award-winning celebrity hairdresser, former British Hairdresser of the Year and British Hair Icon. Andrew, who also holds an honourary doctorate for services to the hair industry, said, “We are looking to enhance and expand on the current team with an elite group of highly skilled extensionists and hair artists who will represent the Racoon brand at various creative initiatives throughout the year, both consumer and trade facing projects.” • So if you’re a creative hairdresser, enjoy using hair extensions as part of your work and are looking for a new challenge to build on your career success, please call 01295 770999 or email: lisat@ racooninternational.com.
SalonNV Magazine | 9
I N D U S T R Y NEWS
SHABA recognises industry legend Hairdressing icon Ann Herman has been given a Lifetime Achievement award for her work within the fellowship aged 93. The events director and patron of honour was given the accolade last night on the behalf of SHABA (Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards) by MBE Errol Douglas. Ann has been involved with Fellowship Hair since 1972, now holding the highest title within the organisation. Presenting the award, SHABA judge and educator Errol said in a touching speech, “It’s a great honour
Phorest Salon Software has officially launched its US Headquarters in Philadelphia, USA The Irish-owned tech company will base all US operations out of the newly–refurbished Hale Building in the centre city. Phorest was founded in Ireland in 2003 by Ronan Perceval and Jamie Myerscough as a pioneering software solution for salons and spas. There are now over 200 people on the Phorest team across USA, Ireland, the UK, Finland, Germany and Australia helping the top salons reach their dream status. Speaking at the official opening, Barry Quinn, general manager of Phorest USA, welcomed everyone to the Hale Building and thanked them for coming 10 | SalonNV Magazine
for me because this lady was one of the first people who put me on my members night when I was 21. “She has been part of the Fellowship for over 40 years since 1972 and she’s seen some incredibly famous names come through. “She’s everybody’s friend, she’s always got advice for people and she’s the most genuine and honest person I know, and she will tell you like it is. “That’s a quality that many people are scared of. “She is my second mum.” The Fellowship for British Hairdressing was founded in 1946 as The Fellowship of Hair Artists of Great Britain. Since then, the Fellowship has grown to be the leading organisation in the UK for promoting and celebrating British hairdressing. Accepting her award, an emotional Ann told cheering crowds, “I love Scotland, I really do—my family are still there. I’m deeply honoured to receive this from the Scottish hairdressing. “But most of all I want to thank every single one of you sitting here tonight for giving all your time to hairdressing and I’d like to tell you that the Fellowship has done wonders for me. “I’m 93-years-old now, the same age as Her Majesty the Queen but I live a slightly different lifestyle. “I want to thank everything you’ve done for me. Thank you.”
Luxury salon MD Beauty Lounge launches in Glasgow
along to celebrate the special occasion. “It’s very rare that a client will come into a business, part with their hardearned cash and leave feeling better about themselves—that’s what make the beauty industry so different,” he said. “It’s very special, and we here at Phorest are incredibly grateful that the salon community have accepted us with such a warm embrace—I think that it’s the best industry in the world.” Joe Gaglioti, owner of Joseph Anthony Retreat Spa & Salon, also spoke at last Thursday’s launch on behalf of Phorest’s clients. He said, “Getting introduced to Phorest was probably best thing that happened to my business. “If anyone knows anything about changing software systems for a business, it’s probably the most stressful thing that you can do and it was definitely the easiest transition that we did. “I can tell you that in all the years
and for the last two years of really educating myself and learning all the different softwares in our industry, this is by far the top of the list.” Other speakers included Joe Burke, Department of Community and Economic Development of Pennsylvania (DCED) and Slyvie Gallier Howard, first deputy director of commerce of Philadelphia, who also cut the purple ribbon to officially open the office. As well as planting their US Headquarters in Philadelphia, Phorest are also bringing their much anticipated Salon Owners Summit Roadshow to town on October 21, 2019. The flagship Salon Owners Summit is hosted in Dublin each January and earlier this year they rolled out a roadshow of events in the US. • The Salon Owners Summit is taking place on Monday January 6, 2020 at the Convention Centre, Dublin.
SalonNV recently attended the launch night for one of Glasgow’s latest high-end hair and beauty salons, MD Beauty Lounge. One of the most aestheticallypleasing salons in the city, every inch of MD is luxury—from the decadent foot spas to the entrance which is lovingly inspired by antiquity. Owner, Muna Darman said, “We’re looking forward to making MD Beauty Lounge one of the best salons in Glasgow. “I’m so proud of my team and I’m thankful for everyone that attended our launch tonight.” The brand new salon, situated in the city centre’s Bath Street, boasts a prestigious new renovation, impeccable decor, extravagant furnishings and state-of-the-art equipment. With breathtaking Italian-inspired decor and a friendly, professional and relaxed atmosphere, clients will be made to feel instantly prepared for pampering. Instagram influencer Kim Brennan also works within the salon as a makeup artist, creating a range of glam looks for ladies who want to look extra before a night on the tiles.
CON GRA TUL ATI ON ST OA LL THE WIN NE RS
AT SHA BA1 9!
From
2ek 2 . 0 £2 per we T +VA
AFFORDABLE QUALITY & STYLE. Your salon vision can be achieved! • • • • • •
6 Styling Units 6 Styling Hydraulic Chairs 2 Basin Units 1 Reception Desk 2 Trolleys 2 Stools
from as little as £20.22* per week 5 year lease £30.45* per week 3 year lease Interested in knowing more about leasing? Call Carlos Rodriguez on 01675 469218 or email carlosrteam@kennet-leasing.co.uk
SOME OF THE BENEFITS OF LEASING:
• Minimal cash outlay • Flexibility in payment terms and equipment • Conservation of the business’ working capital • Tax benefits - each lease payment (including large deposits) can be offset fully against pre-tax profit • Fast Application Turnaround • 100% Financing HAIR & BEAUTY WORLD ABERDEEN - Tel: 01224 561440 AYR - Tel: 01292 285050 DUNFERMLINE - Tel: 01383 730505 PAISLEY - Tel: 0141 8872167 Salon Equipment Specialist’s Contact: Peter Dever Tel: 07825910295 Email: peter@hairandbeautyworld-uk.com Sean MacDonough Tel: 07870221858 Email: sean@salonalternatives.co.uk
GIVING YOUR BUSINESS THE POWER TO GROW *Based on a business trading three or more years and subject to credit checks. Please call us for prices if trading less than 3 years. Finance provided by Kennet Equipment Leasing Limited, who is authorised by the Financial Conduct Authority for the purposes of brokering credit agreements under the terms of the Consumer Credit Act 1974. FRN 676024.
Fellowship News
Project X sample Angelo Vallillo’s razor sharp skill Angelo Vallillo is the latest Fellowship member to volunteer his time to the Project X team, opening up the doors of his new salon, DNA Artspace, for a day of mentoring and education.
D
NA Artspace in Nottingham is a new multi-functional space, that brings together a collaborative community of creatives—including artists, musicians and DJs, as well as Angelo and his business partner, Dale. The venue was the inspiring setting for the Project X team this week, as they travelled to see Angelo demonstrate his razor cutting in a hands-on seminar.
In his ‘Cutting with the Blade’ session, Angelo showcased the technique to the team in a detailed demonstration, before it was time to get hands-on. “I had such a great day,” says Project X team member Phillippa Lee. “The workspace was just amazing and the vibe was so chilled. We started the morning just chatting and getting to know Angelo and his career, as well as learning more about DNA and its concept.” Charlotte Johnson agrees, adding, “I love the fact that I’m always learning and updating my knowledge as part of Project X. Angelo was a brilliant teacher and a lovely person—and his salon is so cool. We learnt to cut a bob using a blade, which was a great technique which I will be taking back and using in the salon!”
PROJECT X 2019 Charlotte Johnson THE ANNEXX
Clare Hatherill THE CHAPEL
Dani Ball HEADQUARTERS
Emma Male EM2
Janene Hawkins HEAVENLY HAIRSTYLING
Krysia Eddery PERFECTLY POSH HAIR
Harlee Gresty LEWIS MOORE SALONS
Phillippa Lee YAXLEY HAIR & BEAUTY
Dan Law LARA JOHNSON LIFESTYLE
Rory Mason ASHLEY GAMBLE SALONS
Zara Clelland MARC ANTONI
12 | SalonNV Magazine
Frequency JP MICHAEL MACDONAGH
Photography: Stuart Simpson Makeup: Ania Pyziolek Model: Dion O’Hagan
SalonNV Magazine | 13
DESANA COLLECTION
Rafael Bueno Peluqueros The DESANA are an indigenous ethnic group native to the Amazon rainforest. The DESANA are skilled craftsmen, especially in the making of braided baskets; their creativity is reflected in the accessories they use as part of their clothing, among them headdresses with different coloured feathers that take advantage of the diversity offered by the native fauna.
Hair: Rafael Bueno @ Rafael Bueno Peluqueros / Instagram @rafaelbuenopeluqueros Assistant Hairdresser: Moyses Utrera / Instagram @moysesutrera Photography & Retouch: Edu Gomez / Instagram @edugomez Makeup: LulĂş PĂŠrez / Instagram @_luluperez_ Stylist: Xisco Morales / Instagram @xissciss Models: Romina Llaguno / Instagram @holaroro & Natalia Koroleva / Instagram @itskoroleva Products: Revlon Professional / Instagram @ revlonprofessional_es Extensions: Elegance Hair Extensions / Instagram @elegancehairextensions 14 | SalonNV Magazine
SalonNV Magazine | 15
#SHABA19 – Hilton Hotel, Glasgow
SHABA DABBA DO We’re excited to finally reveal the winners of the ninth annual Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards in association with eCHAIR!
O
n Sunday September 8, Glasgow’s Hilton Hotel played host to SHABA’s electric atmosphere and jaw–dropping audio/visual screens once again. SHABA recognises the depth of talent that keeps Scotland’s hair, beauty and barbering industries among the most vibrant in the world. So much so, that #SHABA19 was trending on both Twitter and Facebook! Scotland’s Glitterati gathered for the luxe champagne reception where guests and finalists could network and eye up their competition, before over 800 guests were ushered to their tables where they were met with the most fantastic goody bags, supplied by Wella. After a delicious three course meal, and a few glasses of bubbly, it was time to find the winners… Hosts Simon Shaw—global creative director at Wahl— and writer and DJ Josie Smith got the event underway with their incredible on–stage chemistry and Simon’s crowd–roaring rendition of Sweet Caroline. Nicky McDonald and Edward Reid got the crowd on their feet
16 | SalonNV Magazine
performing crowd pleasers throughout the night. After the awards were handed out and the coaches arrived, it was over to DJ Michael Kilkie at Glasgow’s glamourous Corinthian Club. For the second year, Michael performed at the post–SHABA party. During the night, a raffle was held to raise money for the Hair & Beauty Charity, the charity that helps hairdressers in their darkest hours, altogether raising over £1,500. Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards founder, and our editor– in–chief, Joanne Reid said, “This year’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards was the biggest and best to date. A massive congratulations to all the winners, finalists and guests who helped make this year so special. “I’d also like to thank all of our incredible sponsors without whom we couldn’t have made SHABA19 the trending event it was!” Keep an eye out for announcements about SHABA’s tenth anniversary event in (September 13) 2020. Entries will be opening sooner than you think.
Sunday 08 September, 2019
SalonNV Magazine | 17
#SHABA19 – Hilton Hotel, Glasgow
SH AB A Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards
WINNERS
BEST APPRENTICE BARBER presented by City & Guilds
BEST APPRENTICE STYLIST presented by Choose Hair
Martin Desta – Rebel Rebel, Glasgow
Kelsey McCabe – Roar, Giffnock
BEST BARBER presented by BarberNV
BEST BARBER COLOURIST presented by Wella
Andy Dawson – Menspire, Aberdeen
Megan Stockford – Sovereign, Aberdeen
BEST BEAUTY THERAPIST presented by Hair & Beauty World
BEST BLOW DRY presented by SalonNV
Janine Buchanan – Unit 4, Airdrie
Robyn Hunter – McGills Hairdressing, Edinburgh
18 | SalonNV Magazine
Sunday 08 September, 2019
BEST BROW ARTIST presented by Novalash
Aimee Hill – Materialistic Brows, Kilmarnock
BEST COSMETIC PRACTITIONER presented by Baldan Group
Claire Bradley – Re3flection Aesthetics, Uddingston
BEST MALE STYLIST
BEST EXTENSIONIST
presented by Wella
presented by Remi Cachet
Peter Mellon – Medusa, Edinburgh
Jason Meacher – Jason Meacher Hair, Glasgow
BEST FEMALE STYLIST presented by Wella
BEST LASH ARTIST presented by Novalash
Katrina Sloan – Medusa, Edinburgh
Zoe Kinnear – The Powder Rooms, Inverness
BEST MAKEUP ARTIST presented by Bouk
BEST COLOURIST presented by Mood Colour
Louise Ballantine – LUX, Glasgow
Fallon Carberry – Blow, Glasgow
SalonNV Magazine | 19
#SHABA19 – Hilton Hotel, Glasgow
BEST NAIL ARTIST presented by Salon Services
BEST SPORTS/MASSAGE presented by Hashtag Organics
Maria Giordano – Get Tipsy Nails, Kilmarnock
Paula Ainslie – The One Lounge, Glasgow
BEST TANNING TECHNICIAN presented by Radiant Glo
BEST WEDDING HAIR presented by Remi Cachet
Madeleine Rhodes – Chelsea Brow & Beauty, Barrhead
Lisa Ivone – Lisa Ivone Bridal Couture, Uddingston
BEST WET SHAVE presented by Wahl
BEST BARBERSHOP presented by Wahl
Daniel Cleavin – The Cleavin Barber Club, Aberdeen
Hard Grind, Dundee
BEST BEAUTY SALON presented by Salon Services
BEST HAIR SALON presented by eCHAIR
Vogue Hair & Beauty, Ayr
Hair Directory, Inverness
20 | SalonNV Magazine
Sunday 08 September, 2019
BEST NAIL BAR presented by eCHAIR
BEST SALON DESIGN presented by Hair & Beauty World
Diva Nails, Livingston
MD Beauty Lounge, Glasgow
BEST SPA/DAY SPA presented by Hashtag Organics
BEST TRAINING SCHOOL presented by Bouk
The Gin Spa, Glasgow
Glasgow Clyde College, Cardonald
SOCIAL MEDIA EXPERT presented by Bouk
BEST ONLINE RETAILER presented by eCHAIR
Blow
Classy Nails
HERO HAIR PRODUCT presented by SalonNV
HERO BEAUTY PRODUCT presented by SalonNV
Fudge - Jonathan Andrew (Global Brand Ambassador)
Inglot Cosmetics
SalonNV Magazine | 21
#SHABA19 – Hilton Hotel, Glasgow
HERO NAIL PRODUCT presented by SalonNV
HERO TAN PRODUCT presented by SalonNV
Chinty Nails
Vita Liberata
CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL THE WINNERS FROM THE TEAM AT
AND
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD presented by The Fellowship
Ann Herman
22 | SalonNV Magazine
would like to congratulate all winners and finalists on their achievements at the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards 2019. As part of Baldan Group’s SHABA sponsorship this year, we will be whisking the winner, Claire Bradley and every finalist of the Best Cosmetic/Aesthetic Practitioner Award to Milan, Italy on an all–expenses paid trip.
See you in Milan!
baldangroup.com For enquiries, please contact: Jennifer Finestone, Business Development Manager Email: jennifer.finestone@baldangroup.it Tel: 07375483641
Thank you to every one of our sponsors...
#SHABA19
24 | SalonNV Magazine
...helping to make #SHABA19 the biggest ever!
#SHABA19#SHABA19
See you all next year! #SHABAX
Aquarelle nail art STEP-BY-STEP
Award–winning nail artist and technician Hazel Dixon, based in Thetford, Norfolk, has created unique autumn–inspired floral talons for her stunning Aquarelle design
STEP ONE
Prepare the surface of your nail using a fine grit buffer; ensure you have no shiny spots on the nail as this may effect the application of the watercolour paints.
STEP TWO
Use a black foil gel to create a smile line, cure to manufacturers guidelines (usually two mins in UV).
26 | SalonNV Magazine
STEP SEVEN
STEP THREE
Use gold transfer foil and press firmly on the black gel to create a metallic looking smile line.
STEP SIX
Keep repeating the half moon shaped petals and as you go round make the petals slightly bigger each time.
Use a basic green watercolour and mix it with a little of your rose colour to create a contrasting green for creating your leaves. Paint your leaves using the same brush. Odd numbers for leaves on these types of design works well.
STEP FOUR
You will need a brush that goes into a nice point and has a ‘belly’ to hold water for the Aquarelle painting technique. Using a dark pink watercolour paint start creating your roses by painting a ‘comma’ for the middle of the rose.
STEP EIGHT
When you are happy with your design, coat the entire nail with a high gloss gel topcoat and cure for the recommended time. Your design is now finished.
PRODUCTS AND TOOLS
STEP FIVE
You will need to leave a space between the petals so the nail colour will come through the design. Now create half moon shape with your paints.
• HD PRO Acrylic water–based paints • HD PRO Aqua Art Brush • Akzentz Matte–on Top Coat • HD PRO Foil It Gel Black • Akzentz Shine On No Wipe Top Gloss All these products are available from hazeldixonnails.com.
SalonNV Magazine | 27
KEEPING THINGS LIGHT & BRIGHT We speak to some of the best in lash and nails about keeping things light and bright.
NAF! 107K FOLLOWERS
NAIL HARMONY 26.4K FOLLOWERS
NOVALASH 21.1K FOLLOWERS
Tammy Koslowski
Jan Soar
Christina Barham
Nail boss at NAF! Salon and NAF! Stuff
UK head of education and harmony PhD master educator for Essex
Director of Novalash UK
“Lighting is so crucial when you’re doing nail art. You need to find a set-up that doesn’t provide too much glare as it can be distracting when you’re doing line work and the space you work in needs to be brightly lit, as well as your desk to avoid eye strain. Natural light may seem great but it’s an unreliable light source and shadows are created easily, plus being too close to a window with gel products can be risky as the UV emitted through the glass can cure the product. Light is so important, you want to show the true colours of the products that you’re using and make sure glare and shadows aren’t detracting from your work or distorting the designs you’ve spent so long painting.
We have a team of twelve nail technicians at our salon and making sure all of our photos are lit in the same way for our socials is one of the biggest challenges we have. Ring lights, light boxes, natural light and complicated set-ups— you name it, we’ve tried it. Over time we’ve realised that a soft, white light produces the best pictures and having hands raised from a surface gets rid of pesky shadows. Try to avoid overly cool or warm lighting—unless that’s your vibe. If you’re using a white background make sure the surface isn’t reflective and use an app like lightroom to edit the white balance to make your design pop!” Tammy’s top tip: Always, always wipe your phone camera before you take a photo to avoid blur and glare.
28 | SalonNV Magazine
“When you are creating designs with intricate details, good lighting is very important. A good natural daylight lamp will help to reduce eye strain and tiredness due to close work for a start, but it will also enable you to see properly to create crisp details. Daylight effect lighting will also ensure the colours you use are true and not affected by the tone of lighting. Fluorescent lighting is not recommended as it can be very tiring for the eyes. Those beautiful well–lit shots are eye–catching and draw attention. Poorly–lit photographs do not show your work at its best and so it’s really important to use good, warm lighting at just the right angle to display and promote your efforts.”
“When applying lash extensions, bright light is excellent for seeing all the baby lashes you might not have been able to see before, which will enhance the look and density of your lash sets. During separation, switch to the brightest setting to assist you in seeing all your client’s lashes and to help find any lashes that may be stuck together, leaving no lash left behind!”
Light being used in photo is Daylight Company’s Slimline 3.
in broad daylight With more and more customers asking for complex and highly–customised designs using various techniques, precision is paramount. For this amount of intricacy, the correct level of lighting is key to achieve the slick finish your clients deserve. Being able to control the level of lighting can be very beneficial when you’re using multiple products across your looks. Check out the Slimline 3 by The Daylight Company, for a product that fulfils all the lighting needs you could have for creating the most alluring intricate nail art.
SLIMLINE 3 FLOOR
GEMINI LIGHT
(TABLE VERSION ALSO AVAILABLE)
What’s better than perfect lighting? How about a piece of tech that charges your phone while allowing you to do live videos and take photos for step–by–step tutorials.
Slim flexible design lets you position the light as you need it, especially right above the client’s hands avoiding direct glare Flat base can be tucked under the table—no trip hazard
shop at
Choose your setting with
daylightcompany.com
four levels of brightness
and at
Stylish brushed steel look for a great addition to your salon
salon–services.com
As a nail or lash tech, your most powerful marketing tools are word–of–mouth and social media. Customers and fellow nail and lash artists love looking at step–by–step tutorials, inspiration images and transformation pics. Promoting your work across social media will not only attract new clients but put you on the radar of brands looking for new ambassadors. The Gemini from Daylight Company is the best tool here. This amazing light allows you to charge your phone as you use it, making it ideal for photos, videos, time–lapses and slo–mo for your socials. Lash techs also swear by the double shade design as it allows them more control over the position of the light. Find our more about the Gemini in Editor’s Choice page of the Product Envy section.
@sabeauty.distribution
@buffcsjen
Showcase MAKEUP, NAILS & LASHES
A quick glance at the work of social media– savvy creatives across the country. Tag @salonnvmagazine to feature your work in our next issue!
@cwlaall
30 | SalonNV Magazine
@nailsby_eleanor
@brittnailedit
@beautybyelizabeth
@astound_beauty
@vivaglambycerys
@laura_mac_nails
@jennieatcatbf
@nailsbyemmaorr
@cuteycles.nails.by.emily
@rowisingh
SalonNV Magazine | 31
NOT ANOTHER SALON OWNER Sophia Hilton is clearly ‘not another’ salon owner. She’s fiery, she’s flamboyant—and she swears like a trooper. The Not Another Salon owner and educator has acquired a whopping 77,000 followers on her personal Instagram page following the success of her London–based salon business.
Here’s some of Sophia’s top tips from her social media masterclass to help boost your brand and business:
A
not compete with anyone anymore, s the owner of the company, because you’re not in the same league. outspoken but admirably “Don’t tell too many stories and make compassionate Sophia’s sure you’re not confusing your clients. values run though the brand Focus on what your brand is otherwise extensively, “Be really great at your job people are going to get and be really, really nice.” very confused. Repeat your A national and message again and again international educator Be really great in a different way so that working in five countries, at your job everybody understands it.” Sophia drives her passion The businesswoman, for education into the and be really, mother and wife — who salon, meaning her team really nice. isn’t afraid to post candid are constantly moving images and videos of herself forward in their careers. A breastfeeding, cussing or winner of the prestigious talking about sex — admits to having L’Oreal Colour Trophy, named 2017 slaved away at the start of her career in Colour expert of the year and previous a bid to carve out a name for herself in winner at the British Hairdressing the industry. She revealed a decision to Awards, she takes pride in leading have to make several sacrifices to focus her industry as much as her team. her entire concentration in growing She recently descended on the her business and brand name, Not Glasgow’s Barras Art and Design venue Another Salon until it progressed into to share her top tips on becoming an another slew of successful businesses influential business brand on social — Not Another Academy, Not Another media. Hundreds of salon owners, Social and Not Another Agency. makeup artists, hairdressers and fans Sophia’s East London salon, which flocked to the event in July to hear boasts a playful technicolour interior, about what drives Sophia’s work was founded back in 2015 and became and how she managed to obtain synonymous with bold, creative colour. such a huge following online. Sophia told fans, “You can be different or you can be better. You can be doing WORDS BY LISA BOYLE a similar product but be packaging it in a different way that makes you
32 | SalonNV Magazine
CUT OUT TIME– WASTING HOBBIES Forget Netflix, friends who are energy vampires’ and boozy weekends — this spare time can be used to focus on your brand and updating social media with content. USE YOUR FREE TIME TO DO INFLUENCERS’ HAIR Set aside one day or several nights each week to fit influencers in for complimentary hair treatments / colours and extensions in exchange for social media posts recommending your business. KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOUR BUSINESS IS ABOUT Specialise in blonde hair? Make sure you repeat this message to everyone you speak to... and then some more. Refine and master one aspect of your work before moving onto the next. UPDATE SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS EVERY. SINGLE. DAY. The days can be long and stressful but it’s important that you are updating your social media channels, especially Instagram, on a daily basis to keep your following up. ALWAYS BE KIND AND NON–JUDGEMENTAL No matter who you stumble across.
Be one of the UK’s first ‘London Volume’ lash artists NovaLash’s brand new technique can earn you up to 20% more for your volume services as you are applying over 1000 lashes per eye NOVALASH’S exclusive London Volume technique has been created to give your clients massive volume lashes that are ultra-lightweight and extremely soft. The London Volume look is captivating with its extravagant, dark, dense and fluffy lash line and various elongating, graceful lengths.
Safe and natural London Volume extensions are safe to wear even though the look is fuller, denser and more dramatic than American Volume. This is due to the use of thinner diameter extensions which creates lighter fans. NovaLash is known as the world’s ‘healthiest lash brand’ as it respects the natural lashes and has revolutionised the industry with the ‘NovaLash’ technique. The Auto Fan Mixed–Camellia’s, part of the new London Volume lash range have up to 16,000 lashes per tray, and can make up to 15D fans! Lashes and adhesive, like American Volume, is oil–proof and instantly waterproof, perfect for spas, saunas and steamrooms, and therapists offering advanced facial techniques as the lashes will not be affected. Infills are needed every 4–5 weeks longer than industry standard (depending on growth cycle,
age, medication and activity, infills might be needed every 3 weeks).
Online training and support The London Volume training includes three hours of online training, hands–on with case study programme, unlimited personal coaching, lifetime marketing support, a free website business listing with approval and the highest quality lash products including:
■ ROYAL PLATINUM BOND NovaLash’s Royal Platinum Bond is the fastest drying lash extension adhesive in the Platinum Bond series, which is the most awarded lash adhesive line in the world. This oil-proof and instantly waterproof lash adhesive is formulated to dry in about 3 – 6 seconds, depending on your preferred humidity level. The Royal Platinum Bond is great for experienced lash artists who want faster drying adhesive and is also great for classic lash extensions. ■ NOVALASH STARLITE FORCEPS Unique to the lash industry, the NovaLash STARlite forceps are made with a custom inner textured tip that makes gripping lash extensions easier. This inner texture technology reduces dulling and eroding of the tip, making it longer–lasting in comparison to your other forceps. Made in Switzerland from hardened
stainless steel, these superior quality forceps can be easily sterilized and cleaned by most industry–standard methods without disturbing or wearing down the textured tip. ■ LONDON VOLUME C-CURL .03 8MM ■ LONDON VOLUME C-CURL .03 10MM ■ LONDON VOLUME C-CURL .03 12MM ■ LONDON VOLUME C-CURL .03 14MM ■ ADHESIVE REMOVER 3CC ■ GEL PATCHES (10 PAIRS) ■ 1 SHEET (14 PAIRS) OF UNDEREYE STICKERS ■ 1 SHEET (6 SQUARES) OF PARAFILM Classic (Beginner/Students) and American Volume (Advanced) lash training is available throughout the UK and Ireland at dedicated training centres in London, ManInverness, Edinburgh, Kilmarnock, Belfast, Cork and Dublin. London Volume (Expert) online training course. Begin your NovaLash expert journey by emailing us at contact@novalashuk.co.uk.
Get the Balmain LOOK Balmain Paris Hair Couture is proud to present the new AutumnWinter Campaign featuring the stunning Aline Weber, a Brazilian model and activist of German descent who has recently dedicated time to sharing the effects of rapid deforestation in the Amazon Jungle. Here are the three different looks you can achieve on your clients.
LOOK ONE Prep: Prep hair with Leave-In Conditioning Spray and blow–dry hair as desired. Part the hair with a middle parting to create a symmetric look. For extra length and volume use the DoubleHair Backstage Weft 60 cm (or Silk Tape Extensions) in the colour 10A. Backstage tip: Apply the Texturizing Volume Spray for more volume, hold and root lift. Style: Dampen the hair with the LeaveIn Conditioning Spray and Pre-Styling Cream, wrap dry as desired. When the hair is completely dry use the Cordless Titanium Straightener to create more root lift on the crown area and waved locks of hair around the face. Finish: Finish and set the hair with Session Spray Strong placing pieces of hair where desired for maximum hold. LOOK ONE PRODUCTS Leave–In Conditioner, Pre–Styling Cream, Session Spray Strong, Texturizing Volume Spray, Professional Blowdryer, Cordless Titanium Straightener, DoubleHair Backstage Weft 60 cm (10A) or Silk Tape (10A)
LOOK TWO Prep: To add extra length and volume apply the Backstage Weft 60 cm or DoubleHair 55 cm. Dampen the hair using the Professional Water Vaporizer and apply Curl Cream. Backstage tip: For extra care and conditioning mix the Leave–In Conditioning Spray and water in the Professional Water Vaporizer (mixing both half/ half) in the Professional Water Vaporizer. Style: Starting at the nape area, braid hair in horizontal box braids approx. 1 cm to 2 cm subsections. Diffuse dry the hair with the Professional Blowdryer. Important dryer settings, high heat and low speed. Dry the hair until it’s completely dry. Finish: Release the hair from the braids and brush the hair where more volume or texture is desired. Finish with Argan Moisturizing Elixir and set the look using Session Spray Medium for a flexible hold and fixation. LOOK TWO PRODUCTS Curl Cream, Leave–In Conditioner, Argan Moisturizing Elixir, Session Spray Medium, Professional Blowdryer, Backstage Weft 60 cm (10A) or DoubleHair 55 cm.
BACKSTAGE WEFT (60 CM)
LEAVE–IN CONDITIONER
SESSION SPRAY STRONG & MEDIUM
TEXTURIZING VOLUME SPRAY
CURL CREAM
SILK TAPE
BLOWDRYER
ARGAN MOISTURIZING ELIXIR SalonNV Magazine | 35
balmain couleurs couture book your free in-salon demo now Balmain Couleurs Couture is a limitless spectrum of intermixable shades. This spa treatment hair colour is enriched with silk protein, flaxseed, coconut and argan elixir which repairs and nourishes hair for the ultimate healthy shine. The use of Micro Pigments ensures colour penetrates deeper for longer lasting & reliable results. Offering an artisan spa colour experience with integrity, indulgence and bespoke results. freephone 0800 781 0936 - info@balmainhair.co.uk - www.balmainhair.co.uk
LOOK THREE Prep: Prep the hair with Leave-In Conditioning Spray, Pre–Styling Cream, and Styling Gel Strong. Blowdry the hair in horizontal sections for maximal root lift at the base. For extra length and volume apply the Backstage Weft 60 cm in the colour 10A or HairDress 55 cm Human Hair in the colour New York. Backstage tip: All 100% Human Hair, additions can be coloured in any desired colour. Style: Spray Session Spray Medium all over and brush through thoroughly for even distribution. Curl the hair evenly with the Professional Curling Wand 32 mm. Starting at the nape area and work upward using horizontal sections, set the hair with flat pins or Balmain Hair Sectioning Clips. Finish: Set the hair completely using Session Spray Strong for maximum hold. For the final step, brush hair using the All–Purpose Spa Brush to achieve a bouncy, shiny set and finish. LOOK THREE PRODUCTS Leave–In Conditioner, Pre–Styling Cream, Styling Gel Strong, Session Spray Medium, Session Spray Strong, All Purpose Spa Brush, Professional Blowdryer, Professional Curling Wand 32 mm, Backstage Weft 60 cm (10A) or HairDress Human Hair 55 cm (New York). Credit: Balmain Paris Hair Couture Hair: Balmain Creative Director: Nabil Harlow Photographer: An Le Model: Aline Weber at NYMM
ALL–PURPOSE SPA BRUSH
STYLING GEL STRONG
HAIR CURLING WAND
SalonNV Magazine | 37
THE PERFECT BOB B Y L ON D ON H A I R D R E S S E R O F T H E Y E A R PHILIPP HAUG It was a scandalous haircut that hit the headlines in 1910 when young Polish hairdresser, Antoine de Paris, cut the hair of famous actress Eve Lavalliere, taking inspiration from Joan of Arc’s closely cropped hair—creating a style that would stand the test of time and become one of the most loved haircuts in history. So why is the bob so popular? Philipp Haug, London Hairdresser of the Year and TONI&GUY international artistic director, believes it’s because of the style’s versatile, meaning there is a version that suits everyone. “The great thing about the bob is the variety it offers hairdressers and clients— it can be short or long, suits straight hair or curls and every face shape. As a stylist, we can change the length or proportions to make it modern for that era. “If a box shape seems dated, you can style it differently and give it a modern twist. If you look over the decades there’s been a bob that sums up style in that era.” Here are Philipp’s tips to creating the perfect bob: You need to have a strong focus on cutting—the lines are sharp so there is no hiding imperfections. It’s the perfect style to show off your cutting skills. The key is to take your time, it’s all about precision. When blow-dried straight and sleek there is nothing more beautiful that precise lines. A length of the fringe will change the overall look. A long, sweeping fringe will look soft and feminine, while a short, cropped fringe will look more modern. A blunt fringe will make it wearable and highlight the eyes. Style flat to the head with no volume for an edgy, stronger finish; volume through the sides will make it look more dated and mumsy. Product use is key to the bob, the label.m leave-in conditioner is weightless so gives hair a light sheen without the weight. Hair sits beautifully and moves as you walk.
38 | SalonNV Magazine
How to get the look: Philipp dissects two of his winning images: Hair is cut one-length through the sides, with diagonal back graduation from behind the ears into the nape, pushing the weight away from the face. Work stationery through the top to build up the weight. Working with the natural fall, blunt-cut a short fringe on the skin with as little tension as possible—go as short as you dare! Finish blow-drying with a flat brush for a sleek finish and slight kink through the ends. Work with diagonal back sections through the whole haircut, creating the shape and taking the weight away from the face. Use the fringe as a length guide, with slight elevation behind the ears to keep the length heavy. Blowdry with a paddle brush in different directions so it sits and moves naturally. Then finish by dry-cutting for perfection. Find out more about Philipp Haug: toniandguy.com Instagram: @philipp_haug
SalonNV Magazine | 39
THE RISE IN CELEBRITY LINES
W
hat do the likes of Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Kylie Jenner have in common? Well, apart from the fact they’re all filthy rich and famous, they’re also among a slew of stars to have leapt on the beauty line bandwagon in recent times. And while it’s obvious that celeb makeup lines are nothing new, the number of these have evidently soared, with former Spice girl Victoria Beckham’s recent beauty line announcement predicting that even more A-listers could be rolling out ranges in 2019.
40 | SalonNV Magazine
Rachel Jackson, a senior strategist at independent creative agency, Initials, believes the launch of beauty lines is connected to fans being able to feel closer to their favourite star in a more accessible way. Because let’s face it, purchasing an item from a makeup line is far more affordable than buying a designer piece of clothing from your average star range. “Social is very powerful to the makeup industry in terms of all of the YouTube videos and tutorials that are available,” Rachel explains. “A lot of influencers have really made a name for themselves for creating looks online. “The fact that celebrities have such huge, loyal fanbases on social media, it’s just a ready-made customer base for them. That fanbase really easily translates into paying customers and fans just want to share their support to whatever their favourite artist does. “Makeup becomes a more accessible entry point, particularly for younger folk. People who are aged 15-20 can’t necessarily afford to buy a piece of Victoria Beckham’s ready-to-wear fashion line but they might be able to buy one of her foundations or eyeliners.” Created by frequent luxury collaborator Rihanna, Fenty Beauty launched
following months of anticipation and two years of research and development in September 2017. Fans went crazy for the line of colour cosmetics, which included a staggering 40 shades of foundation, developed in partnership with LVMHowned Kendo, the company behind Bite Beauty and Marc Jacobs Beauty. Rachel, who has in depth knowledge of the beauty sector after working with the likes of Rimmel to help with brand planning, brand engineering and channel strategy, said A-listers are also using their makeup lines to express themselves in a way that
captures audiences. “What these celebs are doing through their makeup lines, is sending out much more positive messages,” Rachel reveals. “It’s allowing them to transcend traditional beauty narratives which were all about looks and being beautiful. “With Rihanna’s Fenty line, it was more about diversity and she really tackled the problem that had plagued the fashion industry head on, by launching a range with 40 different shades of foundation. Celebs are now using their profile and voice via makeup to carve a new voice and carve the way for new players.” These views reiterate the message that Lady Gaga appears to be making with her upcoming Amazon makeup range, Haus Laboratories, launching this month. The singer and Grammy-award winner’s new collection is all about confidence, liberation and acceptance, something that the star admits to have struggled with in her younger years. However Jade Myers, a course instructor at leading nail and beauty training organisation Future in Beauty, believes celebs understand just how powerful their social media channels can be when it comes to reaching audiences to promote their beauty lines. “In talking about the rise and success of celebrity or even ‘influencer’ makeup brands, the importance of social media and their pre-existing fan bases cannot be overlooked,” Jade told us. “For example, consider Kylie Jenner’s 140 million Instagram followers and compare that to Dior Makeup’s barely 26 million. “With the click of a button, Kylie can reach out to an audience 20 times the size of Dior’s. If Dior was to try to reach a similar audience
size, it would cost millions and be a potentially risky investment. “In talking about the appeal of celebrity brands: a huge challenge for new brands is to get brand recognition or familiarity—in other words, to get the name out. “When we take it upon ourselves to follow, listen to, and learn from celebrities, we essentially build a personal relationship with them. They cease to be just ‘celebrities’, but people we know—like an old friend. And so, we are more willing to invest in their products.” Considering the immense success of Kylie Jenner, Rihanna, and Kim Kardashian from their beauty ventures, it’s little wonder that the industry is going into overdrive in an attempt to capitalise
Prime members now have the chance to pre-order Lady Gaga’s newly launched Haus Laboratories beauty collection. These collections were thoughtfully co-created by Lady Gaga, the Haus Laboratories product development team and makeup artist Sarah Tanno, global artistry director of Haus Laboratories. Each Haus collection, priced at £46, includes: Glam Attack - richly pigmented, all-over colour shimmer powder, featuring multi-faceted finishes for next-level dimension RIP Lip Liner - creamy Lip Liners with the finish and comfort of a lipstick and the precision of a liner Le Riot Lip Gloss - ultra, highshine dimensional gloss that can be worn alone or layered
on this success. But will fans jump on board with every celebrity just as soon as they release a new product? “Times are slowly changing, and brand loyalties are fading away,” Jade continues. “Millennial and Gen Z consumers are much more concerned with buying ethical rather than brand products. Makeup and beauty products need to be crueltyfree, potentially vegan-friendly and definitely environmentally friendly. No product that fails to abide by these rules will last long.”
WORDS BY LISA BOYLE
for a transformative finish The Duo-Sets include either: Glam Attack Shimmer Powder Duo, Le Riot Gloss Duo and RIP Lip Liner Duos and are priced from £29. Find out more and pre-order the collections at amazon.co.uk/hauslabs. Nicolas Le Bourgeois, head of Amazon Beauty, said, “We’re thrilled to be the exclusive global retailer and home for Haus Laboratories. “Beauty is a category in which customers seek to be inspired and become their own experts, all with a confidence to try new things—Amazon Beauty, like Haus Laboratories, strives to embody this. This collaboration allows us to continue empowering all customers, Prime members and little monsters alike, to discover and buy their favourite beauty products online.”
SalonNV Magazine | 41
GETTING THE JOEY SPECIAL Joey Bevan is a professional fashion stylist, designer, hairstylist and model who is one of the hottest in–demand for hair, music and fashion. His razor– sharp eye has seen him work with the likes of Dior, Diana Vickers and HRH Prince Charles. In July 2014, he was commissioned to create 30 bespoke garments for the Queen’s coronation festival—a regal career highlight.
42 | SalonNV Magazine
I didn’t want to become a hairstylist, I wanted to work with the best hairstylists.
F
ive-year-old Joey Bevan dreamed of being just like Jean Paul Gaultier. He cut up socks and old underpants to make outfits inspired by the likes of Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. Today, Joey is packing to style for two editorial shoots in Ibiza, Spain, with Londonbased photographer Graham Cann. “One is in a Sophia Lauren style, so there are lots of colours, but I’ve got about eight outfits for that plus shoes and accessories,” says Joey. “Then we’re doing sort of vintage 60s black and white, girl by the pool vibe. We’ve got the original 1960s Vogues, so she’ll be standing there with a Vogue cigarette.” Joey is a hotly in-demand fashion stylist within the hair and beauty industry. Unquestionably, one of Joey’s greatest strengths is what he calls the ‘Joey Special’—his knowledge of fashion throughout the centuries.
Owing this to his qualifications in Art History and Contextual Studies, Joey says, “I’m like an encyclopedia of eras. I can look at a picture and say, ‘oh that was 1745 to 1760.’ And I think a lot of my clients are shocked, especially the theatre ones.” Joey started his career in 2009 and has built up a rich clientele including L’Oreal Hair, John Frieda, Crazy Colour, Osmo, Diva Hair Tools, ghd,
Got2Be by Schwarzkopf and Kryolan Profession—who are his oldest clients. When working with such industry heavyweights, Joey insists he doesn’t necessarily follow trend forecasts. Instead, he opts for the ‘Joey Special,’ where he injects briefs with more of his personality. “If there’s braids and lots of metallic colours I’ll start taking inspiration from gladiators, Roman headdresses and
SalonNV Magazine | 43
go down the route of armour and tribal influence,” he says. “You’re a stylist—it’s your job to make people want to see it in a magazine or win a hairdressing competition.” Joey is adamant that you need high energy, as you are sometimes on set for up to 20 hours. He tells us there is nothing worse than stern faces on set—Joey calls this the ‘Devil Wears Prada mentality.’ “I just have to take a big gulp and deal with it,” he says. “It’s fashion and it should be fun.” A self-taught hairstylist, Joey worked for three months in a salon watching closely, even poring over Nicky Clarke and Vidal Sassoon books before practicing on his friends and sisters. “A lot of stylists won’t think about necklines, certain cuts or hairstyles,” he explains. “You don’t want to be putting long dark hair on a dark high-necked jumper because you won’t see the
44 | SalonNV Magazine
detail of the hair. On hair shoots it’s about the hair and not the fashion.” This has led Joey to work on several British Hairdressing Awards and L’Oreal Colour Trophy shoots with the likes of Spencer Silver Hair. This includes last year’s beautiful renaissance vibe looks, which were shot like an oil painting with bright punk hair to mix in a New Romantic flavour. When SalonNV asks about the highlights of his career to date Joey is quick to highlight two. The first is his world tour with Kryolan Makeup. “I can’t believe I got paid to do this,” he admits. “For six weeks we did 63,000 miles and travelled the world. I made all the costumes, I did all the hair and it was inspired by every aspect of makeup theatre, film fashion, TV, body paint— everything. We created the craziest shoots. I really found myself personally and professionally on that trip.” The other moment was when
he was chosen as the official designer for the Queen’s coronation celebration, which Joey referred to as a “real–life Disney moment”. Joey has also worked with some of the most renowned photographers in the hair and beauty industry. With Tony Le Britton being a good friend and regular collaborator, Joey says, “Me and Tony Le Britton work really well together. He uses me for all of his clients and shoot because he knows he can get me to do editorial high fashion or a more commercial style. Both of the British Hairdressing Awards shoots I’ve done this year have been with Tony.” Most recently, Joey has been nominated for the Best Accessories category for his work on the fashion movie, FILM ME at the International Fashion Film Festival—the Cannes of the fashion world. FILM ME plays on Joey’s strongest qualities. “It starts off like an old film noire. The
Production: Tango & Cash Direction: Ed Picard Art direction & makeup: Einat Dan Photography: Tobias Marshall Fashion stylist: Joey Bevan Hair stylist: Natasha Pearson Edited: JM Seneca Music: Bart Picard Casting: Isabella Besque, Andrezo Cristino, Sophia Voss & Zhong Yang
It was a real-life Disney moment. To meet the queen of England was one of the most amazing moments of my life.
character looks like a 1920s Dick Tracey. Then it goes into the 50s and he’s more like James Dean with a pinup model, it’s all kitsch. Then it goes into the 80s with a Steven Spielberg vibe and he’s shooting a man dressed in drag as Grace Jones. Finally, it goes into modern day and he’s dressed as himself with modern lighting, with this really edgy, fashion-forward model in all black with gold studs. It’s basically a time hop.” After more than a decade and many
accolades to his name as a fashion stylist, Joey is quick to offer one crucial piece of advice. Which is as true for fashion as it is any creative field. He says, “I think it’s so important to remember that in testing you can do what you want and work as a team. It’s the essence of what we do and I love it, but it’s also producing amazing work that will get you more work.”
SalonNV Magazine | 45
ELEVEN AUSTRALIA
“Haircare doesn’t need to be complicated, it just needs to work.” JOEY SCANDIZZO, ELEVEN AUSTRALIA CO–CREATIVE DIRECTOR Hair: Joey Scandizzo Styling: Kate Gaskin Photography: Andrew O’Toole Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Models: Chadwick Models
46 | SalonNV Magazine
SalonNV Magazine | 47
FATALE COLLECTION By AKIN KONZI
“Fusing geometry and texture, keeping the colours simple: always a statement look.” AKIN KONZI
Hair: Akin Konizi @HOB Salons Photography: Andrew O’Toole Makeup: Naoko Scintu Stylist: Ozzy Shah 48 | SalonNV Magazine
SalonNV Magazine | 49
IMAGE CREDIT: FASHIONSTOCK.COM / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
THE ERA OF AGELESS BEAUTY Ageism within the hair and beauty industry is still rampant, despite efforts being made to include men and women from every age, colour and background. But at this year’s autumn/winter runway shows, there was the presence of much older models strutting down the catwalk, much to the elation of onlookers. The likes of 50-year-old Christy Turlington and 69-year-old Pat
50 | SalonNV Magazine
Cleveland proved age was no object as they stomped alongside models of less than half their age. So, in celebration of Older People’s Day in October, we decided it’s about time we tackled the stigma of the ‘bluerinse brigade’ and championed the older influencers of our generation. We spoke to salon owners and beauty experts who don’t appear to be stopping anytime soon...
They were wild times. But you know what? I’m still rocking life in my seventies and like to think I’m living proof of what can be achieved by embracing all that has been given us by Mother Nature and hope that more younger women heed my words.
STELLA RALFINI
T
he continued focus on maintaining a youthful look can leave many women feeling the pressure to not only turn back the clock—but stop it in its tracks. And whilst treatments such as Botox and fillers are in popular demand, many people are increasingly looking towards more natural approaches to help maintain their looks as they age. Stella Ralfini is a 72-year-old beauty expert and life coach who is flying the flag for older women in the beauty industry. The glamorous brunette once worked as a PA to the Rolling Stones and has since gone on to become one of the UK industry’s most outspoken and honest figures. “I began my career in the music business as a personal assistant for the Rolling Stones,” Stella, from London, says. “I was 23 and it was incredible but I was always very interested in my body and soul. This was when their album Exile on Main Street was on billboards all over London.”
In her youth, Stella never imagined that she’d end up as a beauty and health advisor. Back then she was a rock chick who in 1970, aged 24, landed a job as personal assistant to the Rolling Stones. She looks back at that period of her life in awe since every day she rubbed shoulders with the likes of Paul McCartney, Elton John and Cat Stevens. “After that I qualified as a beautician but I never then thought that’s where my life would take me. The path just led me there.” Stella opened a health and wellness centre at the age of 38 and went on to become an award-winning author. In her new book, Sensual Sorcery, Stella shares all of her secrets, tips and tricks to maintaining eternal youth. She attributes her glowing skin to the regimes and natural products she has used over the years, many of which were passed down the generations from her mother and grandmother. “I’m being compared to beautiful celebrities of my age but I don’t want to be compared to that,” protests Stella. “I’m an every day, working woman and my tips have to do with fruits, veg and essential oils that can all be used at home. “I began to notice when I was about 58 that my hands looked remarkable. That’s when I realised I should start taking things a bit deeper by becoming dedicated to beauty recipes.” Stella’s motivation for writing Sensual Sorcery was to help challenge the assumption that buying expensive beauty products is necessary. There are a huge range of natural products that she believes provide beneficial properties for both the mind and body, both on the inside and out. Stella finished her book while in recovery for
skin cancer just two years ago and after having a hip replacement operation. She reveals, “I’ve been in great health all my life but in the last two years I’ve had melanoma cancer and I’ve had to have a hip replacement. But those things, somehow I get through them pretty easily if there’s such a thing to say. I think it’s because of the way I treat my body and what goes into my body.” The youthful grandmother has quite a following on her social media platforms and YouTube channel thanks to the free beauty tips she shares with fans. In the past she has been mocked for controversially recommending urine and semen as recommendations in her beauty regime. As well as using affirmations every day, she mixes essential oils such as frankincense and geranium oil alongside a £1 Nivea moisturiser to keep her youthful good looks intact. “Following a healthy diet to keep hormones balanced is also key,” Stella adds. “I recommend avocado, coconut milk, flaxseed, carrots and beetroot for clean blood which equals clean skin.” On top of her success as a writer and beauty expert, she is also is a couples’ counsellor and a women’s empowerment teacher. She believes the key to success is dedication and remaining positive while offering something different from everyone else. “I really feel you do have to be passionate and very good at what you do,” Stella advises. “You have to put that dedication in and that work into it and ideally, you want to be able to offer a different slant to what everybody else is saying. “Life is a rollercoaster. Sometimes you’re up and sometimes you’re down. But when you’re down and you’re at the bottom of the wheel, you’ve got to remember that the wheel does turn and can you stick it out at the bottom?”
SalonNV Magazine | 51
A-list hair king Taylor Ferguson looks remarkably younger than his years. The established salon owner refuses to reveal his exact age but admits he’s now been in the hairdressing business for 43 years. And he’s not preparing to stop anytime soon. Every day, he gets up at 6 am and normally works around 13 hours each day. The concept behind his brand is current, sharp and focused—just like Taylor himself. This month we want to celebrate his achievements over the years.
TAYLOR FERGUSON SNV: Taylor, you have become quite the icon when it comes to the hairdressing industry, what’s your best-kept secret? TF: My best-kept secret is my total passion for my work. I get up most mornings at 6 and I’m usually in the salon by 7.30 and some days don’t get home until 7 pm or later. SNV: What do you consider your greatest achievement and why? TF: Building a strong business—along with my wife Anne and our great team— that attracts loyal clients who want the best in hairdressing. That team has between us somewhere nudging 200 years of combined experience in the profession. That makes me proud. SNV: What age were you when you were your happiest and why? TF: That’s a tough one. Getting married at 25. Having our son Taylor at 26. Becoming a grandfather in my early 60s. As my answer shows it’s the biggest family moments that make me happiest. The joy of a busy day in the salon when the team gels perfectly and we see lots of happy clients leaving the salon with a skip in their step. These two scenarios are on a par. SNV: How do you think the industry has changed over the years? TF: Hairdressing is a profession to be proud about and I believe that somewhere over the years many in our profession have lost sight of that and that’s a big worry. There’s now a strange belief out there that hairdressing has become easy. Someone thinks they can look at a YouTube video for
five minutes and then deliver a complex ombre. That’s a joke. You simply can’t. Our profession should always remain a sought-after career backed with proper training and a commitment to excellence. I’d never knock enthusiasm. I’d always insist on experience and the only way to get that is with the correct training. I can’t tell you how many colour rescue requests we get now. Why? A home dye kit may be cheaper but one size doesn’t fit all and we’ve seen some disasters. Professional colour advice and expertise still stands out. That’s the proof of why training and experience are so vital to our industry. SNV: What keeps you going? TF: Working with my great team and my unbridled passion for working to look after my clients. I get as much of a buzz today as I did when I first started out in my late mother’s salon. SNV: What is top of your bucket list? TF: Space travel has always intrigued me and I love chatting to my grandsons about the moon landing. So perhaps a trip to outer space if that option becomes available. We were lucky enough to do supersonic on Concorde for a business trip to New York—it was the only way we could do a recce in the limited time. We left on the Thursday, came back on the Friday and were back in the salon on the Saturday for our first client. Looking out of the Concorde window and seeing the curve of the Earth was just awesome. Those elements of speed, height and distance fascinate me. SNV: What is the most important lesson life has taught you? TF: Success only comes with hard work and dedication.
You get nothing for nothing. I’ve spent much of my professional career travelling all over the world at hair shows, seminars and exhibitions and always banged the drum that hairdressers need to know their selfworth and that should always remain the case. A can-do attitude should be high on the agenda every day. SNV: What advice do you give to aspiring hairstylists out there? TF: Be prepared to work really hard. Be confident in your abilities. It’s a tough market and hard work and standing out as an expert in your field will be the ingredients that can help you succeed. SNV: Do you think you’ll ever retire? TF: Who knows? My mother was still doing her friends’ hairdos when she was in her early 80s so I’ve still a while to go to mirror her career longevity. SNV: Looking back, what would your advice to your younger self be now? TF: Don’t look back, look forward. Keep totally focused, be prepared to work long hours and listen to every word your client says when they’re discussing their hair aspirations. WORDS BY LISA BOYLE
SalonNV Magazine | 53
HOOKER & YOUNG STYLE AWARDS 2019 Photography: Michael Young
KIZZY O’HARA
JONATHAN TURNER
KAYLEIGH SKILLEN 54 | SalonNV Magazine
BEVAN CLARK
SOPHIE GIBSON
MILLIE NESBITT SalonNV Magazine | 55
INSIDE COLLECTION By MAYTE GARROTE & OLGA GARCĂ?A Inside is a collection of sensations and feelings, those of a sophisticated and modern woman. She screams to the world all her sensations, freeing herself, discarding her fears and building her image from her emotions. She becomes an authentic chameleon, transforming her feelings into colour and hair.
Hair: Mayte Garrote & Olga GarcĂa / Instagram @garrotevelez @Peluqueriaolgagarcia Photographer: David Arnal / Instagram @davidarnalteam Makeup: Jose Luis Blasco / Instagram @josele.makeup Stylist: Visori FashionArt / Instagram @visorifashionartstudio 56 | SalonNV Magazine
The colours melt as her body fades, freeing herself from taboos and breaking established rules. Freedom is what this collection reflects. Look inside yourself, release your colours and merge them, free yourself, shout your desires, longings and fears: it will be the route to happiness.
SalonNV Magazine | 57
INSTAGRAM GLAM Chiselled cheekbones? Check. Gleaming white teeth? Check. A model figure with a wardrobe worthy of Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle? You better believe it. This is model, blogger and stylist Rebecca Donaldson. And you can barely scroll through an Instagram feed without seeing her glamorous posts.
T
he 25-year-old from Perth has been making a name for herself in the Scottish fashion scene ever since she started out as a model at the youthful age of 17. She has outfitted a slew of Scottish stars for editorial features in HELLO! Magazine and has built a following of 25K fans on her personal Instagram page. One of her campaigns for men’s clothing brand Brooks Brothers was also featured all over Times Square in the Big Apple. Rebecca, who has now lived in Glasgow for seven years after moving there to study International Fashion Branding at Caledonian University, has modelled for a range of fashion, beauty and swimwear companies. She favours timeless looks in shades of camel, white and khaki, and the occasional pop of colour. “I was on loads of jobs with stylists and I didn’t really know what I wanted to do when I was in my final year at uni,” Rebecca reflects. “I decided to get into styling. “One week I can be modelling and the next I can be styling, which keeps things exciting. “It makes me appreciate when I’m modelling and when I’m styling, being in front or behind the camera.” With a BA Honours degree in International Fashion Branding, Rebecca’s extensive knowledge of the fashion industry affords her a unique perspective with her styling and blog. The freelance stylist has been working in the industry for over three years now and admits she gained most of her insight while modelling as a teenager. Her first styling job was an editorial celebrity feature for rugby player Stuart Hall for HELLO! Magazine. “I get all my inspiration from a brief,” Rebecca says. “I recently did a campaign for Buchanan Galleries where the marketing team that they used created a mood board and I put my take on the brief. “It’s a case of getting to understand someone’s personality – what they like and what they don’t like – and to understand what people are trying to achieve.
58 | SalonNV Magazine
“For Buchanan Galleries, they gave me key trends of the season and let me do whatever I wanted with it. “It was for spring / summer and I chose crochet, denims, which is always in, power suits and bold, blocking colours.” See Rebecca’s personal style below, get some trade secrets and, most importantly, take notes—this woman is influencing your closet and you don’t even know it. SNV: What are your trend predictions for the season ahead? RD: Khakis are coming back in, military vibes and clashing prints.
price. H&M is good for basics. SNV: Can you tell us about your personal style? RD: My friends always take the piss out of me because they say I dress like a granny. But I like clothes that are timeless. I tend to dress in clothes that I would wear again in ten years’ time. I like to invest in pieces like coats and handbags. A lot of the stuff I’ve worn, I’ve had for years and years.
I never wear jogging bottoms. I tend to wear a crochet dress for comfort rather than joggers.
SNV: Who are your style icons and why? RD: I like Olivia Palermo and Olivia Culpo. They’re just timeless and classic and I like everything they wear, it’s always stuff that I could see myself in. SNV: What are your top three shops to visit? RD: Mango, H&M and Marks and Spencers—I think you get really good quality pieces for a good
SNV: What key pieces do you wear to death? RD: I’ve got this long camel coat from a brand called Joseph. I absolutely love it and I think I’ll wear it for years. It’s good to just shove on because it still makes everything look amazing. Also, my heels, you can wear a hoody with some jeans and throw on a pair of heels and it will look much better. SNV: If you had to wear one brand for the rest of your life what would it be? RD: Probably Celine. The cuts and the fabrics are always really nice.
SNV: What’s your go to evening look? RD: I’d wear long white, high-waisted suit trousers, heel and just a blouse. SNV: What’s your beauty look like on a daily basis? RD: Natural glam. I like nice glowy skin that looks really fresh with brushed up brows. I’ve got this product called Soap Brow which makes it so much easier to do. I use that every day. SNV: Where do you go to get your hair done and what are your top hair tips? RD: I get my hair done at Mesart in Glasgow and wear Hair dreams hair extensions. My top tip would be to invest in good hair products, I use the Keratase Elixir Ultime Collection, shampoo, conditioner, mask and oil and always get complimented on my hair. Also I recommend sleeping with your hair down and never in a bobble. It reduces any snapping and keeps it in a better condition. SNV: Top tips for people working in fashion? RD: It’s all about your network. Reach out to as many people as you possibly can.
SalonNV Magazine | 59
INSIDE THE CAREER OF JAY BIRMINGHAM Celebrity hairstylist Jay Birmingham took Glam Squad Glasgow by storm last month, engaging the audience throughout the day, and even made time to chat with SalonNV about his career, style and his eventual retirement.
A
t 16-years-old, Jay started his career as an assistant to acclaimed celebrity stylist Nicky Clarke in Mayfair, London. From a young age Jay describes himself as fortunate enough to be taken on shoots and campaigns with Nicky, which gave him the drive and inspiration she broadcasts to thousands across his social media platforms. “I didn’t necessarily want to be a hairdresser,” says the sharply–dressed stylist, “but I loved doing my friends’ hair and I got the apprenticeship at Nicky Clarke. The passion grew from there and because I went on Nicky’s jobs with him, I wanted that life and lifestyle, and I wanted to be known for my job.” The stylist, who now dresses the tresses of celebrities like Gemma Collins, Kelly Brook and Amanda Holden to name a few, admits he got his break while at Nicky Clarke thanks to ex-Corrie actress and friend, Helen Flanagan. “She always says she didn’t help me, but Helen Flanagan really got me into that industry. She took me on every photoshoot and every event she went to; this was as Instagram was getting big and I was very lucky to gain a lot of followers very quickly.” Despite the long list of television and social media stars in his clientele, Jay is incredibly humble, treating every client
60 | SalonNV Magazine
equally, whether they have their own TV talk show or a 9-5. “To me every client is as equal as each other. It’s very nice to be called a celebrity hairstylist, but I also have day to day clients as well.” The Glam Squad Glasgow compere extraordinaire had an incredibly packed day, between swapping stories with the special guests and taking selfies with the glamourous Glaswegians gathered, Jay had time to reflect on his status in the industry. “Everyone always says, ‘Jay, you’re doing amazing with how many people know you, your work’s everywhere.’ But when you’re actually doing it yourself you don’t feel you’re doing as well. For me to come to an event like this and for people to stop and ask me for photos and have the crowd I had while I was doing hair... it’s all just overwhelming. “I always like to keep my regular clients as well as my celebrity clients as sometimes you don’t think you are doing that well, then when I go home to visit my regulars to hear them speak so highly of my work and to hear about who I have worked with really brings a smile to my face!” Ever a man to look to for trend forecasts, Jay foresees the 90s hair sticking around well into next year, and predicts short blunt bobs will be a massive hit. “I especially love some of the leather accessories, hair bands and clasps from Corinne—they give simple looking hair an added edge. Short blunt bobs will be a huge hit as they suit most face shapes and are easy to style, I think texture will also be a huge hit throughout the latter end on 2019/20 creating movement in to the hair and showing off an effortless undone style.” Jay tells us it’s his peers that give
him his inspiration, keeping up with the constant flow of the hair industry pushes him to move forward and learn something new every day. That following the likes of Andrew Fitzsimmons and Chris Appleton gives Jay the motivation to keep pushing himself in his career. As for his own career, Jay plans to retire by the age of 35, a lofty ambition but one that Jay is very confident in. “I’ve got some things up my sleeve which I can’t reveal at the moment, but I plan to retire by the age of 35. I’ve got a lot of travel coming up, but in 10 years I want to be global. I want to have multiple hair salons and still doing the things I’m doing in London—just a bigger version of what I am now.” In 2019 many young talents are vying to get their names heard, talents seen and get a taste of the glam life. We asked Jay for his words of wisdom for the social media savvy stylists of tomorrow. “Be grounded and stay cool, calm and quietly confident,” says the celeb stylist. “Be loyal, and stick to one brand—don’t jump from brand to brand and use anything just because you have been offered products for free. A big thing to think about is the way you deal with clients, treat everyone the same and most of all… open a savings account and be sensible with your money and spending habits!”
THE GO–TO STYLIST OF THE STARS Stylist to the stars Bernard Connolly has no shortage of A-list contacts. As well as having dressed the likes of supermodel Grace Jones, the late David Bowie and Her Majesty the Queen, he’s the man that top hairdressers call in when they need some sharp styling to enhance their editorial looks.
H
aving studied at London’s most prestigious fashion college Saint Martins, obtaining a fashion degree at the highest level, it’s obvious to anyone that Bernard certainly knows what works when it comes to fashion. Glamour is Bernard’s forte and he loves nothing more than being given a challenging client brief that requires an
62 | SalonNV Magazine
extravagant look of the highest calibre. “I’ve worked with the British hairdressing community now for 35 years and I’ve been a stylist for 40,” Bernard tells us. “I’ve worked with pretty much everyone.” The A-list fashion mentor’s mother was head of a fashion corporation, however Bernard’s Scottish father wanted his youngest and only son to follow a more traditional career path such as law. But Bernard, the only boy to five older sisters, reveals he had a lightbulb moment when he attended a fashion show with his mum aged 12–years–old. “My mother said it was like a light
just shining above my head and that’s where she knew I would be,” Bernard recalls. “She said it would be ridiculous for me to do otherwise.” After graduating and having worked with some of the most famous fashion designers in the world, including Zandra Rhodes, Anthony Price as well as supporting new designers such as Jacob Kimme and Hannah Marshall, he went on to gain experience in retail and merchandising for in-house personal shopping for Harvey Nichols. Following this he became the inhouse head of PR for the Kenzo brand of the luxury goods house LVMH. After three successful years with LVMH, Bernard went freelance as a fashion stylist, having cultivated a large network of private clients, including many celebrities and high-profile individuals. “In this time, I was building up how to evaluate a body and evaluate a figure,” he says. “In my day there was no such thing as a stylist— it was a costume assistant. “I never knew the word stylist until 1979. My first shoot was with Patrick Demarchelier and then my introduction to hair came after that.” Bernard was on a trip to Paris with Anthony Price where the hair was being done by the famous Leonard Lewis—the celeb hairdresser known professionally as ‘Leonard of Mayfair’. He now works with the likes of hair stylists Mark Leeson, seven times British hairdressing Champion Steven Smart and up-and-coming hairdresser David Rae. “That was another lightbulb moment to help and work with hairdressers and I’ve pretty much been doing that ever since,” Bernard says. “I love the industry. “I work a lot with the Fellowship and I usually do the shows at the end of the year for Colour Project. “Last year this girl came up to me absolutely sobbing her eyes out and saying to me how much I’d changed her life and how I’d brought her vision from a model to a catwalk. “That really was everything and I think for me, that suddenly became my raison d’être.” As part of the Queen’s Diamond
I think working with people you love is the essence of fashion, the essence of creativity and the essence of passion within you.
Jubilee celebrations in 2012, Bernard was part of Her Majesty’s fashion team which was all documented in a book called Dressing The Queen, where Bernard is featured. When it comes to choosing his clients, Bernard simply goes after the people who inspire him most and insists that it doesn’t matter whether they’re famous or not. “I just go up to the people I want to work with and ask them,” effuses Bernard. “Recently that was Julien Dalrymple of Northern Ireland. “She’s a really fabulous woman, I love her vision and I love the way she does hair. “I just stopped her and told her I’d love to work with her and she called me and asked me to work with her on her BHA. It’s epic what we created and I’m really thrilled to have worked with her.
“I look for somebody that challenges me to be honest.” His life-changing work alongside the queen of iconic imagery, Grace Jones, was sparked after a chance meeting with the star in a restaurant. Bernard recalled the moment he first got chatting to her which led to the pair working together as a team for many years to come. “There was this woman sat in a chair with her back to me and she was talking to a guy that was sat directly next to her. And if there’s one fan of hers that knows every move and every nuance that there’s to know about Grace Jones then it’s me,” Bernard says. “She put her hands in the air and was twisting it in a very avant–garde way—and I just said very loudly ‘oh my god, that’s Pam’s sister.’ “She turned around, she looked at me and pulled down her glasses and kind of beckoned me to come to the table to talk to her. “She asked me how I knew Pam and I told her that I’d gone to Saint Martins with her. “We’re now doing a spate of shoots for remixes of albums and getting ready for a world tour.” When it comes to pulling together a look when working with hairdressers, Bernard says it’s first important to communicate with one another on what type of person they are influenced by, and who they love or aspire to work with. “I want to see the kind of hair that drives them, so we make up a mood board,” he says. “We look at images and styles that reflect their nature and then we come to what
BERNARD’S TIPS FOR HAIRDRESSERS ON A BUDGET KEEP IT VERY SIMPLE BUT VISUALLY CATCHING If you’re putting together a collection for a hair show or PR, there are three shades that work—neutral, grey and black. KEEP IT MINIMALISTIC You don’t want too much detail because it’s about the hair—the hair is the hero
AVOID EMBELLISHMENT NEAR THE HAIR SHOP AROUND Every other hairdresser might be going to Topshop so remember that INVEST IN A STYLIST THAT WILL BRING YOUR VISION TO THE FORE
the shoot is going to be about.” Although Bernard, who has obviously been in the industry for four decades, says he gets a ‘gut-reaction’ when it comes to envisioning a look for the person he wants to ‘nurture,’ he believes it’s still about having a deep passion. Bernard continues, “I think working with people you love is the essence of fashion, the essence of creativity and the essence of passion within you. The most recent celebrity I worked with was Kendall Jenner and she was just so professional.“ “You have to be part of an amazing team because that’s everything— I’m just the cog in a wheel. “A lot within a hairdresser is in me. My key thing to anybody in the industry is to have passion and love what you do—and at the same token I think you can grow your passion. Being around likeminded people is also key to me.” WORDS BY LISA BOYLE
HOW TO DRESS FOR SHABA Bernard says, “Have respect for where you’re going. If you’re attending an awards ceremony, keep your casual belief for another event. If it says smart casual, go smart casual and try to look your very best. All too often we’ve got guys that belong in lounge suits when it’s a black tie event but the Scottish awards always go all–out so people should get out of the box a little bit and wear more colour.”
SalonNV Magazine | 63
get the look...Disco Silver tresses STEP–BY–STEP
Silver hair is one of the most daring variations of blonde you can get, so it’s not for the faint-hearted. But ‘Disco Silver’ is still one of the hottest hair looks predicted for autumn/winter 2019. To achieve the head–turning look for your clients, we’ve created our very own step–by–step guide, as advised by Vault Hair & Beauty owner Joni Ewart. STEP THREE
After 40 minutes, five minutes before the colour is due to come off, mix up Matrix Light Master with water to ensure there is no excess toner, ensuring it’s a nice clean blonde hue.
STEP FOUR
Wash the client’s hair with Eleven Australia’s Deep Clean shampoo. Dry hair and apply Matrix Disco Silver toner.
STEP FIVE
Apply to roots and ends, leaving the front ‘half moon’ section out so this part is lighter at the front of the hair.
STEP ONE
After having a full consultation with your client to ensure you can achieve the colour with the products you have, use Matrix Light Master with 20 Vol.
STEP SIX
Apply the toner right through the hair and leave on for 20 minutes.
STEP EIGHT
Rinse out, apply the follow–up treatment from Matrix Ultim8, which is a shampoo and treatment at the backwash. This seals in the Ultim8 treatment.
STEP NINE
Achieve a blunt cut using Wahl clippers.
STEP TEN
Use Eleven Australia Frizz Control Cream mixed with Miracle Cream at ends of the hair and I Want Body Foam at the roots. Blowdry, straighten and use Zara hair accessories to style.
STEP TWO
Add some Matrix Ultim8 to the mix. This is similar to Olaplex and stops the hair from dying out when you’re lifting it out. Paint this on the scalp. Leave on for 45 minutes without heat.
64 | SalonNV Magazine
STEP SEVEN
During the last five minutes, before the colour is due to come off, mix equal parts Matrix Disco Silver and Clear, and apply this just to the ‘half moon’ that’s been left out so this part of the hair is lighter.
SalonNV Magazine | 65
MADNESS SALONES CARLOS VALIENTE Madness is a collection of antitheses. While the hairdresser’s previous collection showed her kinder side through hairstyles full of colour and with soft lines, Madness expresses the opposite and looks to convey the darkness that we carry inside. From the choice of black and white, through to the most powerful cutting lines and straight angles, and the choice of a dark and daring style, Madness screams rebellion, and implies a radicalness in the concept with respect to the previous one.
Hair & Stylist: Sara Piera @ Salones Carlos Valiente / Instagram @ sarapieraa @saloncarlosvaliente Photography: Esteban Roca / Instagram @esteban_roca_photo Makeup: Nacho Sanz / Instagram @ nachosanz_makeup
66 | SalonNV Magazine
SalonNV Magazine | 67
THE BEST BEAUTY TOOLS FOR MUA’S TO STREAMLINE THEIR BEAUTY KIT Sick of hauling a suitcase full of kit when you’re called in for wedding makeup or editorial shoots? Well here’s some handy tools to help you streamline your MUA kit once and for all.
DR.PAWPAW OUTRAGEOUS ORANGE BALM Celebs can’t get enough of this twist on the classic red lip. Loved by makeup artists across the globe, Dr.PAWPAW uses an award-winning formula to help lips feel hydrated, nourished and super soft. You can also try adding the balm to cheeks to give clients a gorgeous glow. £6.95, drpawpaw.com
LILIBETH OF NEW YORK BROW SHAPER Toss the tweezers and wax… a new time saving, pain-free hair removal tool is at hand for makeup artists on the go. Not only a brow shaper, this tool can remove clients’ unwanted hair from the upper lip; chin, neck, bikini line, legs, arms, back of the neck, toes, face and belly button. £7.49, makeupbox-ldn.co.uk
ONLY CURLS COMB This comb has smooth, rounded, wide teeth which gently massage the scalp and glide easily through unruly hair, preventing breakage. For best results always detangle curly hair very gently when wet. Detangle from the tip and work upwards. £8.00, onlycurls.com
68 | SalonNV Magazine
THE MAKEUP HAND PALETTE The patent designed makeup hand palette allows you to mix different brands and shades to create bespoke finishes and transfer your products hygienically. This tool prevents cross contamination and unwanted stains on the back of your hand. £15, makeupbox.ldn.co.uk
BLANK CANVAS ONE STOP SMOKEY EYE BRUSH SET Perfect for MUA’s, this set contains seven essential eye brushes to create a smokey eye. Achieve the timeless eye look using smudging, blending and contouring brushes. £35.00, blankcanvascosmetics.com
RUBIS TWEEZERS A favourite of leading MUA’s and cosmetic companies such as Estée Lauder and MAC, luxury Swiss implements brand, Rubis, an essential in every artist’s bag. Dubbed ‘the Ferrari of tweezers’ by MUA Bobbi Brown herself, these handcrafted tweezers are designed to ensure perfect precision and easy movement, giving you the perfect brow. So precise, these were originally crafted to insert small rubies into Rolex watches. £19.50, lookfantastic.co.uk
BIODERMA SENSIBIO H2O SOLUTION MICELLAIRE CLEANSER Seen backstage at virtually every London Fashion Week show, this gentle cleansing water is perfect for swiftly removing product. It’s also designed for sensitive skin, so you won’t see any nasty flare ups on clients. Carry this with cotton wool pads and you’re good to go. £5.99, bioderma.com
SalonNV Magazine | 69
S
MIA CONNOR
he’s known for her stunning red carpet makeup looks which consist of pared-back skin, pouty lips and a sultry, dramatic eye. World-renowned makeup artist Mia Connor has built an astonishingly successful career that continues to go from strength to strength, through stints at big-time events including the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week held in Sydney, and her popular makeup masterclasses. The talented MUA has always had a love affair with art and her creative flair was apparent at a young age. Always with a pencil in her hand, drawing at every opportunity, Mia exhibited hopes of becoming an artist one day. However, believing it to be an impossibly hard career path, she later stumbled into a different art form—the glamorous world of makeup—and totally unintentionally. “I started makeup simply to learn to do my own makeup,” Mia admits. “I never had the intention of becoming a makeup artist, although I did want to be an artist when I was in school as I was an avid drawer and always quite creative. “I love being creative and finding a job that is my passion is a dream come true. It allows me to travel worldwide and connect with people I never would have without this industry.” We spoke to Mia about her latest masterclass attended by thousands across the world and about what really makes her tick. SNV: Mia, you have built quite a following for your work over the years, could you tell us what inspires you? MC: I am inspired by other artists, models, photographers and all-round creatives. I seek inspiration from images I see on socials as well as in magazines, movies etc. SNV: How would you describe the makeup you tend to do for your clients? MC: My style is very red carpet—dramatic but not overdone. My signature style is clean, glowing skin paired with a dramatic eye. You can make the most dramatic eye look subtle if executed well. SNV: What’s been your proudest achievement? MC: My international work. The last twelve months has seen me tap into an international market, taking my masterclasses for pro makeup artists all over the world to cities including London, Croatia, Dublin, Lithuania, New York, Miami and soon my huge European tour where I will run my masterclasses in eleven different cities over Europe. SNV: How important is education when it comes to makeup and why?
70 | SalonNV Magazine
MC: Like any specialised field, makeup is forever changing and evolving so it is important to not get stuck in a rut and keep producing the same style of work over and over. Education is vital not only in improving your skills and mixing it up, but also to fulfil our creative needs and stay current in the industry. I always say if you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always got—it’s up to you to make changes to better yourself and your skills. SNV: What will you be showcasing in your new masterclass? MC: My next masterclass is The Content Creator. It’s a new class that I have developed which couldn’t be more relevant in this time of social media. I will be creating a look for the purpose of driving traffic to my social media platforms and attention from brands—it’s all about creating content for social media which is where the world has headed now. No longer are we simply makeup artists, we are photographers, editors, marketers, hair stylists and this class teaches artists how to combine all of these elements to create amazing content that will grow their following which in turn grows their business. I saw a massive hole in the market of education available and I constantly saw amazing artists creating beautiful makeup but when it came to capturing it properly for social media I realised I needed to help them not just in makeup but in creating content also. SNV: If you could get your hands on anyone’s face right now, who would it be and why? Any celeb makeup clients and looks you’ve enjoyed doing most? MC: Definitely either Elsa Hosk—her face is so intriguing and beautifully different and also Emily Ratajkowski—every time I see an image of her I die!
Right now, I am heavily injecting my socials with vibrant colour. I am basically trying to step away from whatever every other makeup artist in my country is doing and stand out by doing something different. SNV: What is top of your bucket list? MC: I would love to look at moving to America to take my career to the next level. I would also love to direct Fashion Week in a big city such as Paris. SNV: What is the most important lesson life has taught you? MC: To take risks and I would rather regret doing something than not doing something. Also, there is always a way—we always find a way to figure something out whether it’s business related or personal—there is always a solution. SNV: What tips would you give aspiring makeup artists on promoting their looks online? MC: Start stepping out of the box and create looks out of the ordinary to be original and stand out from other artists. Scout models everywhere you go—cafes, supermarkets, and get fresh faces to create beautiful content on. Use social media to your advantage and learn how to work it to the maximum! SNV: What are your top three beauty products? MC: Becca Glow Silk Highlighter Drops in the limited-edition Champagne Pop Collection, Stila Stay All Day Foundation and Laura
Mercier Loose Translucent Glow Powder. SNV: Any trend predictions for this autumn this year? MC: I feel the 90s are making a comeback with big, bushy, fluffed up brows teamed with visible lip lines that may even be slightly overlined and add some faux freckles to the mix to keep the skin looking as natural as possible. SNV: If you had to go to a desert island with just one beauty product, what would it be? MC: For myself personally, it’s all about the eyes—I can’t live without mascara and liner—I love Lancome Grandiose Mascara and By Terry Blackstar crayon. To find out more about Mia’s masterclasses, visit themakeuploversevents.com/ pages/mia-connor-tour
WORDS BY LISA BOYLE
SalonNV Magazine | 71
COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE FROM HARLEY Selling skincare to clients isn’t the easiest of jobs. More and more people today are becoming ‘skintellectually savvy,’ and all too often they look to the likes of Amazon and eBay for budget versions of products recommended by their skin specialist.
T
his means the practitioner or beauty therapist will spend crucial time personalising a skincare regimen for a customer, only to sell the products as a one–off before losing them to online retailers that might be popular on social media that month. That’s where Harley steps in, a new technology platform named after London’s famous medical destination, designed to make selling skincare easy and pleasurable, whilst prompting repeat purchases and providing a premium, personalised service for each patient. SO HOW DOES IT WORK? The qualified medical professional; be it doctor, nurse or therapist, delivers a skin consultation (in clinic or online) and enters the patient’s product regimen directly into the online platform. This is done with a touch of a button and takes approximately one minute per patient. The patient can decide to buy these products from the clinic or they can have the products shipped directly to their doorstep by Harley. For those wanting to ‘think about it’, they can purchase later on–the–go via a link sent directly to their phone which contains details of their regime. Aesthetic clinic director Dr Sophie Shotter says, “We used to struggle with people running out without
realising they were low, and then ordering in a hurry from Amazon. “For patients it’s not ideal as we don’t know the product supply chain, but for a business it is disastrous as we lose the repeat revenue. Through a simple three– click system, Harley nudges all of our skincare patients when they’re running low and reminds them to repurchase.” HOW WILL IT HELP YOU AS A SELLER? There are often two different scenarios; the client wants to repurchase products that were previously recommended by the practitioner in clinic—but is unable to do so without having to go back into the clinic. Hectic lifestyles can prevent them from having the time to pop back into the shop. Another common curveball is that the customer wants to think about purchasing the product regimen before committing but are not able to do so in today’s in–clinic retail setting— leaving the clinic without a purchase. But what if technology could enable the practitioner to sell directly to the patient and drive repeat sales anytime, anywhere without any inventory risk at all? HOW HARLEY CAN HELP WITH REPEAT SALES? Patient compliance is crucial if they want to have healthy skin, and Harley helps practitioners keep patients on their regimens by prompting them to re– purchase products promptly before they run out, in a tactful and tasteful fashion. Harley deals with all the logistics and ships directly, on behalf of the practitioner or clinic. The firm does nothing without the consent of the practitioner. Founders of the firm say Harley helps to drive loyalty to the practitioner and the products they are using, whilst allowing sales to be possible even when on holiday or asleep. Award–winning aesthetic doctor Terry
Loong says, “Working with Harley allows me freedom to help people who are unable to see me in clinic due to budget, time or distance via their online consultation service. “Harley allows me to run a skin care business without having to hold inventory and worry about payment and delivery. “Harley looks after all that for me while sending patients reminders when their products are running out, which is great as patients can be looked after well, even while I’m on holiday. I see Harley as my support team and secret weapon in my skincare business.” HOW DOES IT WORK FOR THE PATIENT? Harley directors say the product purchasing experience is seamless, luxurious and efficient. The products typically arrive in 24 hours, packaged in a personalised, eco–friendly box and can contain a note from the clinic or practitioner, to ensure the patient connects their Harley delivery to the practitioner at all times. Once the patient is set up on Harley, they receive a secure link on their mobile that enables them to access their skincare regimen with application instructions anytime of the day. All products, across multiple brands and including prescription products, arrive in one delivery, providing the patient with a truly seamless one–stop–shop solution. Founder and CEO Charmaine Chow says, “Early adopters of Harley have enabled us to provide some encouraging statistics for those who are contemplating joining the platform. “We estimate that the profit opportunity generated by using Harley without ‘physically’ stocking any product is between £150–300k per year for a mid–sized clinic. These are very attractive economics, especially as we don’t charge to use the Harley platform and instead take a very fair percentage of profit.” • Find out more at getharley.com
SalonNV Magazine | 73
PHOENIX ANTONIO CALVO The Phoenix, a bird that rises from its ashes is the inspiration for this collection. Like this mythical bird, after long periods of intense creation, it is necessary to resurface and create collections just for the mere enjoyment of making them.
Hair: Antonio Calvo / Instagram @antoniocalvoestilistas Hair Assistant: Justo Seoane Photography: Danny Goiry Makeup: Maria Freire Stylist: Conchi Silvent Models: Ainhoa Lรณpez
74 | SalonNV Magazine
SalonNV Magazine | 75
PURE HAIR
76 | SalonNV Magazine
Salon: Pure Hair Hair: Damien Johnston & Samantha Irwin Colour: Emma Burchett Styling: Erin Rose Makeup: Shannon Mawk Photography: Glenn Norwood
SalonNV Magazine | 77
P R O D U C T ENVY
EDITOR’S CHOICE
EDITOR’S COMMENT At SalonNV we’re always spoiled for choice when it comes to the latest hair and beauty offerings. We’re more than happy to do the dirty work and show off the hottest new products in the beauty world.
REM Infiniti Nail Bar
Fresh from REM is the gorgeously sleek and modern Infiniti Nail Bar. Featuring two glass display shelves and a thoughtful cable mangement system. The Infiniti Nail Bar is available with or without a storage cupboard and comes in over 20 different laminate colours.
Daylight Company Gemini
Flexibility meets stability and portability, weighing in at a tiny 2.4kg the Daylight Gemini neatly folds and packs into its carry-bag. Gemini delivers high contrast and accurate colour matching, whilst keeping cool. It’s dual shade flex to wherever you need them to shine. With a slim structure and upscale design, Gemini is also lightweight yet stable, flexible yet holds any position.
£189 daylightcompany.com
78 | SalonNV Magazine
Prices from £535 (exc. VAT) rem.co.uk
Amanda Harrington The 3 Step Tanning Method Wella ColourMotion+
Wella’s new ColourMotion+ range elevates colour care beyond anti-fading. Regular use of ColorMotion+ care regimen improves coloured hair quality in three areas that are specifically important for coloured hair: Colour Protection, Vibrant Shine, Stronger Hair. Excellent hair quality for beautiful hair colour.
£48.60 wella.com
The 3 Step Body Set containing the three products that you need to create a perfect and natural sunkissed glow on your body. Includes a Pre-Colour Primer, Bronzing Body Mousse and The Big Body Brush this set is packed full with ingredients that illuminate, hydrate and perfect the skin.
£85 amandaharrington.com
Takara Belmont Aubrey Barber Station
The all-in-one Aubrey Barber Station with its integral Majolica Porto basin, thermostatically controlled water system and traditionally inspired design delivers supreme comfort for grooming and shaving services. Customise your way with three veneer and Staron worktop options for unrivalled front and backwash services, as ample storage for tools and products ensure clutter-free style!
£3,180 takarahairdressing.co.uk
SalonNV Magazine | 79
P R O D U C T ENVY
Kobe Pro 2000S Professional Dryer
Designed by professional hair stylists to withstand a busy shop or salon. This sleek, lightweight dryer has a powerful 2000-watt motor and easy-to-use controls with two speed settings and three heat settings. The three-metre-long cable means you won’t be restricted while drying and the hanging loop allows it to be quickly stored away when you’re finished.
£21.95 coolblades.co.uk
Pahi Tatam
The base for this incredible piece can be any of the Pahi finishes, with a wide selection to choose from. The Tatam can be upholstered with a huge range of highly durable, high–quality fabrics. There are also versions of the Tatam available with dual backrests or without.
£700 + VAT albertewendesign.com
80 | SalonNV Magazine
EDITOR’S CHOICE
PRIORI Eye Crème Q+SOD fx230
This dreamy adaptive eye cream features a multifunctional formula that protects your most sensitive skin areas while delivering powerful rejuvenating benefits. Fine lines and wrinkles don’t stand a chance against PRIORI’s exclusive antioxidant compound combined with Vitamin A for a smoother, more radiant appearance. The adaptive technology delivers just what your eyes need… get ready for compliments.
£82 prioriskincare.co.uk
QMS Epigen Daily Detox Serum
This advanced, luxury serum is specifically designed to defend the skin from the damaging effects of external stressors such as UV light and environmental damages of skin ageing. High-performance ingredients help accelerate the regeneration of the skin, activate the cellular detox process and increase the cells resistance to stress. These actions help to repair damage and red spots, shield the skin from further pollutants and revitalise the complexion. Pricey but an investment product.
£167 qmsmedicosmetics.com
Balmain Paris Limited Edition Silver Cosmetic Bag
Making a bold statement with this set, complete with Balmain’s new logo! The design influences can be seen from the Balmain Paris A/W fashion collection 2019, with its sexy silver, seethrough vibe. The uber-cool cosmetic bag contains two travel sized products to keep your tresses tamed, plus a Balmain branded pocket mirror.
£34.95 balmainhair.com
Goldwell Elumen new shades
For the very first time, two natural shades allow hairdressers to cover greycoloured hair with direct dyes. Use Goldwell’s new thickener for more creative freedom with the newest hues in rose, mint and blue.
£11.84 goldwell.co.uk
SalonNV Magazine | 81
P R O D U C T ENVY
SKIN & MAKEUP
Benefit BAD gal BANG 24 Hour Creamy Eyeliner
NARS Light–Reflecting Setting Powder
The fan–favourite formula for makeup artists is now available in two luminating new shades. This fine powder helps to restore the skin’s youthful appearance and ensure flawless, picture–perfect skin without white cast or flashback. Perfect for helping to effortlessly lock makeup in place.
Ensure your clients smoulder for up to 24 hours with this new budge– proof creamy liner from Benefit. Available in classic black, funky purple, deep brown and blue, these are great for adding some drama to your makeup looks. Each shade is transfer–resistant and comes with a smudger at the end for seriously smokey peepers.
£18.50 benefitcosmetics.com
£29 narscosmetics.ie
Alpha H Essential Skin Perfecting Moisturiser
Boost your daily skincare regime with a Vitamin C– packed capsule to help brighten and smooth the skin. Unlike traditional skin creams—which when exposed to air and light may start to break down and degrade over time—each airtight capsule is designed to protect the serum, allowing every application to be as effective as the last.
Allegedly loved by pop star Kylie Minogue, this revolutionary new generation moisturiser is a 5–in–1 skincare staple which moisturises, primes, shields against blue light and pollution and filters UV light—future–proofing your client’s skin in one easy step. Utilising the latest advancements in ingredient technology, this multi– dimensional formulation combines revolutionary anti–ageing peptides and environmental defenders with sun filters to protect against daily damage and fortify the skin.
£39.99 skindoctors.co.uk
£39.99 alpha–h.com
Skin Doctors Potent Vit.C capsules
82 | SalonNV Magazine
P R O D U C T ENVY
Colloidal Earth Silver Spray
Collodial Silver is the hottest all– in–one ingredient to come hot on the heels of the CBD trend. Hollywood actress Gwyneth Paltrow carries this spray with her to keep germs at bay during long–haul flights and it can do everything from acting as a powerful disinfectant to boosting your pet’s immunity. Jet–setting clients will want to carry this purse–friendly product everywhere with them as it can be used as a spot treatment, finishing spray and a first– aid remedy for cuts and scrapes.
£22.99 colloidalearth.com
Too Cool For School Coconut Oil Serum Eye Patches Elemis Superfood AH Glow Booster
This brightening serum can be used as an alternative to Vitamin C to help enhance your client’s complexion. Simply shake three times, squeeze three drops onto your palm then massage onto cleansed skin for some extra radiance before performing a makeup look or facial. A simple way to upgrade any skincare regime.
£27 elemis.co.uk
Perfect for those in search of a premium treat for tired, stressed–out skin, this sheet mask contains 24ct gold and pumpkin extracts to soothe and revitalise skin. This bio–cellulose sheet mask hugs every contour of the face to impart its precious, skin– boosting ingredients. First in the line-up is pumpkin extract, which is packed with fruit enzymes and alpha hydroxy acids to increase cell turnover, brighten and smooth the skin. Alongside this, 24ct gold minimises redness and works to reduce signs of ageing, slowing down collagen depletion and increasing elasticity. Just 10–20 minutes with this mask (selfie optional!) and your skin will be left soft, plump and gorgeously radiant.
£8.50 lookfantastic.com
Murad InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment
Offer this to skin–conscious clients for a quick way to help them eradicate scarring caused by spots. Designed to improve the texture and appearance of blemish–scarring, this also helps to hydrate, brighten and smooth the skin with a noticeable difference in as little as eight weeks. Advise customers to apply morning and night after cleansing to see a miraculous difference in days.
£18.96 murad.co.uk
SalonNV Magazine | 83
P R O D U C T ENVY
HAIR PRODUCTS
Cake Beauty Hair Raiser Volumising Powder
Canada–born haircare brand Cake Beauty has officially launched in the UK. Take your second–day hair to new heights with this weightless styling powder, adding powerful 18–hour volume and texture that easily brushes out, day after day. Driven by natural silica and infused with the power vitamin biotin, this revolutionary styler spot–targets limp locks with our no–mess, precision gun applicator for phenomenal fullness and touchable texture.
£14.99
Eleven Australia Detangle My Hair Leave–In Spray Living Proof Restore Dry Scalp Treatment
A lightweight detangler spray with pear extract to hydrate and tame hair. Suitable for all hair types. Spray generously on damp from roots to ends and comb through to leave hair smooth, hydrated and tangle–free.
Encourage your clients to protect their scalp from the sun with Living Proof’s leave–in treatment. This quick–fix product helps to soothes a post–pool, irritable scalp by instantly hydrating and relieving tightness while a Vitamin B3 Complex helps rebalance the microbiome for a healthier bonce long–term.
£21.20 warehouse5.co.uk
£25 livingproof.co.uk
R+CO Mood Swing Straightening Spray
Designed for curly or wavy hair, this heat–activated, humidity–proofing spray results in a silky blow–out level texture that lasts even through shampooing. Due to the heat–activated polymers, when applied to hair before blow drying or flat–ironing, less heat–styling time is needed to achieve desired end look of straightened hair. This helps to seal in hydration, repel moisture and prove a mirror–like shine to your client’s mane.
£26.50 beautyrebel.store 84 | SalonNV Magazine
HAIR EX TENSIONS
P R O D U C T ENVY
P R O D U C T ENVY
Richy Hair Extensions Stickees
Lox Box Pre–Bonded Extensions
These luxury extensions are made from 100– per–cent Virgin Remy Hair for a seamless and natural result. Available in 18’’and 22’’ in over 40 colours, the bonds are created with Italian keratin, allowing them to last for around 12–16 weeks on clients before top–ups.
Prices range from £250 – £800 michellegriffin.co.uk
Attached using a medical grade, non–allergenic tape, these 100% human hair extensions are attached in just 30 minutes and produce a comfortable and undetectable result. Perfect for adding length, volume and colour, Stickees are crafted with European virgin hair, which is ethically sourced and processed by Richy Hair themselves, ensuring the provenance, quality and ethicality of every strand.
richyhair.com
Great Lengths launches three new on–trend shades Introducing Coral, Dusty Pink and Autumn Foliage, Great Lengths hair extensions has launched three new limited edition colours. Each of the new hues will be available in both classic bonds and GL Tapes, making them accessible for all types of Great Lengths wearer. Coral encompasses the pantone colour of 2019, a gorgeous bright orange that perfectly compliments the existing fashion colour palette. Dusty Pink is a gorgeous root tipped subtle shade, particularly suited to blondes looking for a burst of colour. Autumn Foliage is an incredible multi–tonal brunette shade, which is set to be popular as we fast approach the winter months of 2019.
greatlengths.co.uk SalonNV Magazine | 85
P R O D U C T ENVY
L ASHES, TAN AND NAILS
Lash Emporium No Drama’s Studio Strip Lash Applicator Speed up your client’s waiting time with this handy strip lash applicator, as seen on this year’s Love Island. The curved tweezer-style applicator allows you to securely hold and place your lashes as close to the lash line as possible for the perfect fit.
£6.95 eyelashemporium.com
Salon System RefectoCil Eyelash Lift Kit Help hectic clients achieve longer, fuller and nourished lashes in just 13 minutes. Ideal for lunch-time appointments, the kit contains 36 applications with lifting pads in three different sizes. One of the quickest systems on the market.
Available from Professional Beauty wholesalers from £74 + VAT
Naturalash Lashlux – Mink Style Strip Lashes Designed for those clients who want to achieve feathery, fluffy effect these premium range strip lashes are loved by makeup artists for being lightweight and easy to apply. Perfect for any occasion, each style brings something unique to any makeup look, thanks to their soft, elegant and wearable effect.
£4.75 + VAT salon–services.com
Revitalash Limited Edition Advanced Conditioner Revitalash have elevated their support to Breast Cancer Awareness month in October by launching their new limited-edition lash conditioners. The conditioning serum is perfect for introducing to clients who suffer from damage from years of LVL treatments or lash extensions. A percentage of the profits from sales of this will also be donated to research and education initiatives.
£104 revitalash.co.uk
86 | SalonNV Magazine
L ASHES, TAN AND NAILS
Radiant Glo Two Hour Formula Spray Tan
Mavala Retro Collection Celebrating the fashion revival of the bourgeois codes of the 70s, nail brand Mavala has revealed a collection of chic new shades. Verging on the popularity of kitsch, the collection has a hint of British charm with a nostalgic nod to tartans, checked fabrics, dogtooth and thigh-high boots. Adding a touch of elegance to the sober and discreet shades of the autumn season, the collection has a resolutely sophisticated but urban look.
Radiant Glo 2 Hour Rapid Tan is a premium spray tan solution for professional spray tanning therapists. Radiant Glo products are made with natural and organic ingredients including organic Moroccan argan oil and organic aloe vera, without the use of harmful chemicals. The 2 Hour Rapid Tan can be left on for up to six hours when a deeper colour is desired.
£29.99 (1 ltr) radiantglo.co.uk
£5.50 lookfantastic.com
The Gel Bottle Nail Forms
The Gel Bottle Brush Set
Comes in a roll of 500, featuring strong double thick forms and sticks very well to the finger. Forms also feature numbers and guidelines to help get desired length and shape.
The Gel Bottle’s flagship brush set, consisting of:
£16.00 exc VAT thegelbottle.com
The Gel Bottle 100/180 Buffer The Gel Bottle’s own brand professional high quality double– sided 100/180 grit sponge buffer. Washable and disinfectable, also available in multipacks from The Gel Bottle’s own website.
£1.45 exc VAT thegelbottle.com
P R O D U C T ENVY
P R O D U C T ENVY
• Liner nail art brush, perfect for extra fine and long lines • Detail nail art brush, perfect for fine and very precise lines • 4D nail art brush, perfect for nail art like 4D flowers • One stroke nail art brush, ideal for one– stroke painting • Round gel brush, made for builder gel application and to clean up French–line
£41.00 exc VAT (£9.00 each when purchased separately) thegelbottle.com
SalonNV Magazine | 87
P R O D U C T ENVY
COLOUR & BACK WASH
Crazy Color Hype Blue Pure Pigment Drops
Create instant colour deposits— simply choose your base, drop and apply. These drops allow you to fully customise your hair colour, use fewer drops for pastel shades or mix multiple drops to create a brand–new tone. Add Hype pigments to colour, care and styling to take any salon treatment to the next level.
£8.70 salonsdirect.com
SENS.ÙS InBlonde Metallics
Sens.ùs have added two new colour lines, Nudes & Metallics, to their exclusive InBlonde range. With four hard, cool shades to create metallic effects on blonde hair, these are perfect for creating multi–dimensional looks. The demi–permanent hues also won’t jeopardise the hair’s condition by keeping locks hydrated during the treatment.
Nude & Metallics 60ml tubes are £5.90 + VAT each. These can also be purchased as a kit – Nude & Metallic Kit (One of each shade plus shade guide) £37.76 + VAT (save 20%) ilovesensus.com
88 | SalonNV Magazine
Schwarzkopf Clay Lightener
Further embracing the huge worldwide balayage trend and the move away from foils, Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest blonde innovation— BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener—is a lightener with integrated Bond Enforcing Technology that empowers hairdressers to produce creative, freehand blonde looks in faster fashion. The premium, soft–to–solid formula cleverly creates an outer shell, which allows the lightener to stay moist on the inside, unleashing its full lifting power, whilst the outer shell protects uncoloured hair from product transfer.
£25.10 Salon and Wholesale Customer Service 0800 526 741
P R O D U C T ENVY
P R O D U C T ENVY
OTHER PRODUCTS
Olverum Unisex Dry Body Oil
Luxury beauty brand Olverum has recently launched a range of unisex body oils. The Ultra Light Super Fine spray is a lightweight, breathable, therapeutic dry oil mist ideal for hydration on–the–go. Absorbing almost instantly, it rapidly restores skin barrier function to promote lasting natural skin hydration and a heady, gender–neutral scent. It’s no wonder the high–end brand is loved by the Royal family.
£36 olverum.com
Billion Dollar Smile Purple Tooth Polish
The brand that knocked out brassy yellow tones from hair to get a cleaner, whiter blonde has introduced their special formula to a whitening toothpaste. When recommending to clients, let them know how it breaks down stains, and is paraben and fluoride–free. Perfect for pearly gnashers.
£10.99 billiondollarsmilecosmetics. com
Cocoa Brown by Marissa Carter Illuminating Goddess Oils
Available in three luxurious shades, the Cocoa Brown Goddess Oils are made up of dry coconut oil with finely milled shimmer particles that can be used on face and body. Perfect for makeup artists who want to create a glow–up, these can be used on the complexion as a primer under foundation or mixed with other products. The oils also moisturise and hydrate skin, and with the brand’s signature Tahitian Gardenia scent, they’re the perfect complement to sunkissed looks.
£10.99 Available from Superdrug
SalonNV Magazine | 89
P R O D U C T ENVY
TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
NovaLash The Light
The Light has two elongated LED panels perfect for lashing clients, applying makeup, or illuminating clients and yourself for the perfect photo. When applying extensions, this vivid light is excellent for seeing all the baby lashes you might not have been able to see before, which will help you enhance the look and density of your lash sets. The two adjustable poles make it easy to shorten and heighten to fit most bed heights and types.
Available from selected distributors novalash.com
ghd Oracle
Making curling easier than ever before, this innovative curling tool combines a unique shape, the styling power of heat and the setting effect of cooling, to create a variety of curls for all hair types—in just one stroke. No matter which section of hair you are styling, or which angle, the hair will always pass through the same U shape for the perfect curl effect with ease. By tilting the ghd Oracle at slightly different angles, you can create a variety of different curls and waves, from loose beachy waves, to a more uniformed curl.
£175 ghdhair.com
90 | SalonNV Magazine
Hercules Sagemann Scalp Brush
Created with the professional stylist in mind, the Hercules Sägemann is available in three models – Large, Piccolo and Deluxe – with each designed to offer the ultimate in performance and comfort. Featuring soft, rounded pins made of high–quality nylon, the wooden Scalp Brush glides through even the most knotted hair without tugging or pulling, placing less stress on both hair and scalp. Each stroke from this artfully–designed brush also improves circulation to the scalp, encouraging healthy hair growth, while the ultra– smooth brushing motion creates less friction.
SPECIAL SHOW PRICE: Visitors to Salon International will receive 20% off! hercules–saegemann.de
ghd Glide Hot Brush
ghd have announced their internet–breaking first–ever hot brush which tames and smooths dry hair quickly and effortlessly—your perfect partner for second–day styling. This slick tool glides through tresses effortlessly so that you’re ready to wow in seconds, giving you extra time to catch up on your 40 winks. Prepare for seriously glossy hair with this time–saving tool.
£125 ghdhair.com
Gemma Willock–Smith
Tune in to the Master Frequency Gemma Willock-Smith, our newest columnist, will bring her expert knowledge to the pages of SalonNV
A
s a hairdresser, clipper work isn’t always your modus operandi. However, the male grooming sector is booming, and the opportunity to grow your skillset is one you should grasp with both hands. This year, alongside becoming an ambassador for the recently launched MVRCK, Gemma also won 2019’s the American Crew All-Star Challenge UK, as well as scooping multiple awards at SHABA. A former hairdresser, Gemma, who owns Frequency Barbers in Glasgow, has been in the hair industry for 18 years, starting as a hairdresser at just 12-years-old. But it wasn’t until she moved to Scotland that she ventured into learning her masterful clipper skills. Just before she started working, educating and managing Glasgow’s famed Rebel Rebel, Gemma worked in a shop called Guyz n Galz, a hairdressers and barber shop where she was the only member of staff to work across the divide. It wasn’t long before she was noticed by Rebel Rebel, and offered an interview. “I turned up early for my interview, and I stood outside the shop thinking, ‘This is me. This is where I should be,” she says. “When I first went into Rebel I had a lot of anxiety because I remember my gents’ haircuts going up to reception, and the clients would be paying their bills beside Alan’s clients or Lorraine’s clients and I didn’t think my clipper work looked as good as theirs. “I put a challenge to myself. I’d get models specifically on a Thursday, where I could go in at 9am because my shift didn’t start until 12pm and just practice on a model and within six months I felt at ease. “It wasn’t long after I started educating in Rebel that I grew the most. I think in this industry we learn to do what we’re told. But I’m the kind of person who has to really understand what
they’re doing. It took a long time of doing practical stuff before the theory made sense and clicked. “I had to verbally explain to people theory and get them to understand what I couldn’t way back when. That’s when I realised how much I learn from the youngsters and that’s when I grew the most.” For hairdressers who aspire to up their barber game, there are a number of routes you can take, Gemma advises. From watching YouTube videos to asking to shadow your local modern barbers to attending top industry events, no matter your path it’s all about putting in the time. “When I was young and learning hairdressing, I would always take a Sally doll home with me and use my ironing board,” Gemma reveals. “I’d have my mates round and they’d be playing Street Fighter and I’d be cutting hair in my living room. “I still got to socialise, but I got on the floor making money faster. If you want to learn how to do something, put the effort in, put the time in and you’ll see the rewards.” Gemma encourages stylists to question
everything while gaining as much knowledge as you can. She says, “I’ve never had a situation where somebody’s come up to me and asked for advice and I’ve said, ‘go and ask someone else.’ I always take the time, and I can’t imagine anyone else who’s at these shows and getting paid to be on stage who wouldn’t take the time. “Right now, this industry is booming and it’s booming because it’s full of people who want to help other people grow. “I’m blessed to have my hairdressing background because there’s nothing that sits in my chair that I can’t do and you’ll find a lot of hairdressers in barber shops now, it’s a different level of ability.“ If funds aren’t an issue, Gemma suggests utilising barbering academies such as MADE, who offer a more comprehensive education experience for a greater commitment of time and money. But her ultimate advice is to “stay humble and pick up from whoever you can and have fun.“
SalonNV Magazine | 91
Emil McMahon
Why Education Really Matters Remember in the ‘old days’ when school careers advisors only mentioned hairdressing to those students who didn’t have ‘potential’ to do anything deemed as 'serious' as a career?
W
ell, I’m glad we have moved on from then and that hairdressing is finally being seen as one of the best job opportunities to get involved with. Our industry has evolved beyond recognition. It’s gone from being considered ‘old fashioned,’ to becoming a creative, dynamic and exciting profession, all in the space of half a century. Yes, I know 50 years is a whopping five decades, but in the context of evolution, it’s a mere moment in time. And so, hairdressing is now a top choice for many school leavers, and it ‘sour duty to make sure their chosen path is filled with excitement, interest and personal development. That’s why I was delighted to meet up with the team at the Ambition Centre for Training. Emma Evans, Cheryl Rougvie and the team have taken over an established independent education provider delivering SVQ qualifications, and are infusing it with energy, passion and new approaches to education. Having accepted and immediately embraced social media as a key part of the education strategy, the #Ambition team have started an exciting journey sharing their story and their students’ stories on Facebook and Instagram, whilst also sharing their business strategy on LinkedIn. This approach is crucial when dealing with youngsters, as Gen Z has grown up with social media as part of their everyday life. They use social media sites such as Facebook and Instagram to share not only the fun stuff but also the development of any chosen career. And seeing as hairdressing is so visually impactful, it allows new apprentices the opportunity to showcase progress to their followers. Whilst this is fun, it’s also a good way to monitor progress, and tied in with the new approach Ambition Centre for Training, it creates a
modern and engaging way to learn. To keep our industry moving forward, it’s vital that everyone engages with social media as part of the ongoing self-education that is needed to keep ahead of the constant changes that hairdressing goes through. Tying everything together for a salon owner can be challenging, and that’s why an external education provider can be of great use, especially when it’s a vibrant and user-friendly organisation that understands the youth of today. In the ‘old days,’ my training provider was very much old school, and while I learned ssome key basic skills, I was no way ready to be a
hairdresser at the end of my training. There’s another way this fabulous industry has evolved. When I see the team at #Ambition fired up and full of enthusiasm for helping the next generation of hairdressers through their training programme, it fills me with great hope for the future.
Contact Ambition Centre for Training at info@ambitionscotland.com Emil McMahon provides independent education for salons emil_mcm@hotmail.com
SalonNV Magazine | 93
Michael Moran
Colour Brands: Then and Now Having worked with almost all of the leading hairdressing product manufacturers during my career— namely Wella, Schwarzkopf and L’Oréal—I think it’s safe to say they’re all very good and similar to each other in terms of price and standard.
The better my team know and understand the product, the happier they are.
T
here will often be a personal preference to a certain company’s reds or blondes. Personally, I don't like to chop and change my main product company too often, and as long as you are in a position to be spending a half-decent amount of money with any of the big three, I think it’s only fitting that they look after you well. For example, you will likely be appointed to a 'key account manager' who, instead of looking after 100 salon accounts, will only be looking after 20 or so. Therefore, you can expect really good service in return. For example, you will likely be appointed to a 'key account manager' who, instead of looking after 100 salon accounts, will only be looking after 20 or so. Therefore, you can expect really good service in return. I can’t begin to tell you how different and how much better it is now than it was 20 years ago. As a salon owner, you would have to spend a minimum £750 or more on your first order to get started with one of the big companies or they simply wouldn’t entertain you. One salon I worked in a number of years ago would be regularly 'thanked' for their custom with things like portable TVs, CD players or even flights to London a few times a year. The salon would then—after around 18 months—move over to another big company to benefit from their 'thanks.' My opinion is that we need to stay loyal to our main product company for as long as we can for several reasons: 1. STAFF CONFIDENCE IN THE PRODUCT AND HOW TO GET THE BEST OUT OF IT.
94 | SalonNV Magazine
2. THE STAFF TRAINING THAT GOES ALONG WITH THE BIG COMPANIES. 3. THE RELATIONSHIP YOU GAIN FROM BEING A LONG-TERM CLIENT. 4. THE OPPORTUNITIES YOU GET AS A RESULT OF THIS RELATIONSHIP. The better my team know and understand the product, the happier they are and will also go on to develop their skills and create beautiful work so everyone wins. Over the years, it has been my experience to see how fortunate and possibly even spoiled some hairdressers can become. It is simply impossible for a salon to carry four tubes of every single colour on the shade chart of any given company. It's too expensive to simply to let stock sit on shelves
gathering dust that has cost hundreds of pounds, just in the off chance a hairdresser might feel like using it. We all know the most popular colours we need with some variation here and there, however, staff must take responsibility when it comes to stock control and help the salon spending stay at a sensible level. Work as a team and communicate with whoever looks after ordering, only buy what you need and remember... one day there is every chance you will be a salon owner paying for the stock and you will know EXACTLY how it feels when there’s tint wastage washing down the backwashes because someone didn’t measure properly or tubes of colour that never get used just piling up. WORDS BY MICHAEL MORAN
QUALITY EUROPEAN MADE FURNITURE EXPERT SALON DESIGNERS T. 016 70 73 89 79 W. ALBERTEWANDESIGN.COM studio@albertewandesign.com
New 2019 ranges and brochure
Image courtesy of Scott Banks Hairdressing SalonNV Magazine
| 95
SUBURBIAN COLLECTION BY MAKEOVER This collection is inspired by the urban tribes, the different ethnic groups, and the suburbs of the cities ... inspired by what we see when we visit the city, the colour of the people, the liveliness of the people. The fusion between the urban and sub-urban world.
Hair: Jose Salvador & Eva Gonzalez from Makeover / Instagram @makeoverlogrono @josemakeover @eva_ makeover_ Photographer: David Arnal / Instagram @ davidarnalteam Makeup: Wild van Dijk / Instagram @wildvandijk Stylist: Aaron Gil / Instagram @aaron_gil_stylist Models: Flor, Laura, Elsa and Adriana / Instagrams: @ floroliveraw @xlaumiaux @aslemor @readysteadylove Products: Schwarzkopf Professional / Instagram @ schwarzkopfpro.spain 96 | SalonNV Magazine
Lisa Shepherd
Changing colour brands - to convert or not, that is the question... A-list hairdresser Lisa Shepherd’s award-winning career spans over 30 years, from educating all over the globe to being the hair colour expert on series five and six of Channel 4 TV favourite 10 Years Younger. Naturally, colour is in her DNA. This month she spoke about taking the plunge and converting from one colour brand to another. time after time. Therefore, with my love of ‘mixing things up’ in business converting to another brand can really be the answer. Here’s my top tips on how to convert without panicking.
H
1. EXPLORE THE REASONS WHY YOU ARE CONTEMPLATING CHANGE AND BE HONEST... It can be: • A product thing – superior results • A company thing – service, quality or brand profile • A business move – financially cost efficient • A support thing – you are a person or business not a number Brand choice is paramount. You’ve got to LOVE who you’re going over to. Access their best people and their products and trial them extensively. I can tell if I like a brand by sampling just a few colours. I want to see superior grey coverage, intense red, pop toners, and lighteners. I want to try their bestselling product, as well as their worst. Above all, a salon owner is the leader so LEAD. When switching brands, your team needs positivity, knowledge and support as well as reassurance.
ere at Lisa Shepherd hair we have converted to Balmain Hair Couleurs Couture. It was not a decision taken lightly and I want to share with you why we made this decision and how it happened. As I know, for many of my peers, it is a BIG decision and can be super scary. However, it’s something I’ve done more than once as it can be such an exciting time for a team leader as well as the team. The opportunity exists to re2. OUR APPROACH evaluate, refresh and IS TO SET UP A ‘PLAY re-energise to the max. TABLE’ AND GET For some salon I want to work with a range HANDS ON WITH owners, it is a definite that can be safe enough for THE PRODUCTS. ‘no’, but for others my youngsters to learn from Then it’s time to it’s a ‘cannot wait’ and trust, but is creative have a really honest scenario. My advice and cool enough for my exchange of opinions. is that you’ve got to senior team to express their After discussing what we be brave, organised cutting-edge creativity. love and hate, we get and open minded to the colour brand’s team the positives and the in to talk us through potential benefits. the portfolio, balancing their superior A change of supplier can really put knowledge of the brand with our forensic a spring back in your squad’s steps. knowledge of our business. It’s important Speaking from experience, sometimes to be honest, but not negative; there’s a when we’ve been with a brand for a big difference. A successful conversion long time we plod and maybe even nod is marrying these elements together. off with the monotony of it all. When it comes to worst-case scenario, we 3. COLOUR PALETTES DIFFER AND can even become lazy in our colour AS I’VE ALWAYS PREFERRED FLAT choices and just pick up the same tubes
BACKING TONES, BECAUSE WE DO A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT OF CORRECTION, WE DEMAND COLOUR THAT’S COOL TONED AND STICKS AROUND. I’m not into wishy-washy ‘translucent’ coverage. It sounds lovely, but has no guts. I’m into concrete coverage and so are our ‘bread and butter’ clients. Balmain has a pallet of 61 intermixable shades, plus super toners, powder and clay lighteners so accommodating in the salon is easy and affordable. It is beautifully packaged, looks the part but more importantly spa ingredients give results, which are spot on every time. It flips from permanent into a semi, demi, tone on tone and gloss just by changing the developer, which is a real bonus when you hate clutter as much as I do. 4. FINALLY, ONCE YOU’VE SWITCHED, YOU’VE SWITCHED. It’s clean slate time, you can’t timidly ease the new brand in, while apologetically easing the old one out. You’ve just got to go for it. People will always prefer what they know until something new excites them. Have courage in your convictions and you’ll be preaching to the converted before you can say ‘platinum blonde.’ Converting to a new colour house means all clients have to be skin-tested for colour allergies. I’m not going to lie, it’s a mammoth task, but it’s something we should all be doing in salons on a regular basis anyway. I’ve never been afraid of change, in fact I welcome it and the opportunity to test myself and my team. For us we have successfully transitioned to Balmain Hair and our clients love the results, vibrancy, coolness, consistency and longevity. Convert or Not, do not be afraid, it could be the best move for you, your team and your business.
WORDS BY LISA SHEPHERD
SalonNV Magazine | 97
@bleachplease_edi
@caraleestyles
Showcase
HAIR
A quick glance at the work of social media– savvy creatives across the country. Tag @salonnvmagazine to feature your work in our next issue!
@spectrumhairboutique
98 | SalonNV Magazine
@teresawallerhairart
@lena.strilets.stylist
@md_beautylounge
@purebelfast
@safyb_salon
@tony_hairdressing
@vikiscissorhands
SalonNV Magazine | 99
T R A I N I N G DATES COLOUR – COLOUR DECODED DEFINITIVE BALAYAGE Guest appearance: Jack Howard Duration: 1 day Investment: £400 Location & Date: • London, 17 September 2019 SEPTEMBER 2019 SEMINARS
STYLING – ESSENTIAL SKILLS PRECISION CUTTING Guest appearance: Debbie G Duration: 2 day Investment: £350 Location & Date: • London, 02–03 September 2019 Thinking about taking the leap from traditional salon work into creative hairdressing but don’t know where to start? This can be a challenging step, so make sure you’re prepared by enhancing your skills with the very latest techniques. You’ll see your confidence grow on this two–day course as you develop skills including the perfect graduation, disconnection and precise layering. Expert educators will provide skill and guidance to assist you as you take the next step in your career and build up your artistic portfolio.
COLOUR – COLOUR DECODED WORLD OF IGORA Duration: 2 day Investment: £175 / €200 Location & Date: • London, 09–10 September 2019 • Manchester, 02–03 September 2019 • Cork, 09–10 September 2019 • Dublin, 23–24 September 2019 Introduce yourself to the world of IGORA! In this two–day seminar you will get the chance to explore the full range of IGORA Royal! With theory and practical sessions, we will help increase and deepen your understanding of the Schwarzkopf Professional premium colour range. This course will open you up to a world of new, creative colour possibilities, using the incredible IGORA Colour assortment. You will leave this seminar full of creative ideas and ready to work with IGORA in your salon.
100 | SalonNV Magazine
STYLING GENTS EXPERT Guest appearance: Daniel Granger Duration: 1 day Investment: £200 / €230 Location & Date: • Dublin, 02 September 2019 Enhance your practical knowledge about men’s contemporary haircut and embrace the male clientele in your salon. After attending this one–day course, you’ll be able to deliver the perfect male consultation, offer the very latest cutting and styling techniques and benefit from the ever–growing retail market with Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSIS Session label and 3DMen range.
COLOUR – COLOUR DECODED FREEHAND SPECIALIST Guest appearances: • London – Tim Scott Wright, Suzie McGill & Dylan Brittain • Belfast – Suzie McGill & Dylan Brittain • Manchester – Sara Barlow & Tim Scott Wright Duration: 1 day Investment: £300 / £230 Location & Date: • London, 16 September 2019 • Belfast, 09 September 2019 • Manchester, 30 September 2019 Freehand colouring is a technique that is here to stay – but are you clued up on all the skills needed to nail this creative trend? This one–day course is dedicated to colour trends like ombré, bronde and ronze and it will teach you all there is to know about these salon– friendly freehand techniques. From innovative face–framing placement to classic balayage techniques, you’ll leave equipped to offer something bespoke for each client and keep them coming back for more. You will work with one of our Schwarzkopf ambassadors who will show you everything you need to know to become the very best in freehand colouring.
Learn how to Balayage with Jack Howard! This one–day seminar with cover all the myths and fears around freehand work. By the end of the day, you will be confident to perfect the classic Balayage application from root to tip. The session will include live demonstrations from Jack and a practical session on blocks in the afternoon. Jack will show you how to master techniques such as, face framing (the money piece) ponytail highlights, effortless freehand highlights, zone toning and lived–in hair. You will be able to take these salon–friendly techniques back to your salon offering new colour services and immediately be able to make more money. We will also cover technical information on the Schwarzkopf BlondMe range. Don’t miss out on this amazing opportunity!
STYLING – ESSENTIAL SKILLS CREATIVE CUTTING Guest appearances: • Manchester – Philip Bell • Cork – Kevin Kahan & Philip Bell Duration: 1 day Investment: £200 / €230 Location & Date: • Manchester, 16 September 2019 • Cork, 23 September 2019 Step out of your comfort zone and discover your inner cutting creativity. This one–day course, taught by an award–winning guest artist, will inspire you to think outside the box, sharing hints and tips to provide clients with new and exciting styles.
COLOUR – COLOUR DECODED COLOUR CORRECTION Duration: 2 day Investment: £300 Location & Date: • London, 23–24 September 2019 • Glasgow, 16–17 September 2019 • Manchester, 23–24 September 2019 Handle any colour correction challenge! Designed to remove the fear–factor, this confidence–boosting course explores
a range of technically challenging processes, including re–balancing and pre–pigmentation. With hands on sessions designed to grow your skills, you will be perfectly prepared to address any future colour challenge.
with their distributor and Eufora. The Eufora Salon Specialist Team Members are resident experts in their salons, providing leadership to their fellow stylists when it comes to Eufora product and program knowledge.
STYLING – HAIR UP EXPERT #DRESSITUP
SENS.US MASTERCLASS
Guest appearance: Sharon Malcolm Duration: 1 day Investment: £150 Location & Date: • Belfast, 16 September 2019 Become the ultimate hair up expert in just two days! From braid bars and festival hair menus, to proms, weddings and parties, updos are now a staple and profitable hairdressing service. Learn how to perfect the essential techniques, seamlessly incorporate hair pieces and supports and work creatively with decorative accessories, while understanding the planning and preparation processes involved in these looks. This creative seminar will help you unleash your imagination, as well as opening up an entire skill set that can become a fresh revenue stream.
STYLING – ESSENTIAL SKILLS PROGRESSIVE STYLING Guest appearance: Hooker & Young Duration: 1 day Investment: £250 Location & Date: • London, 30 September 2019
Location & Date: • G&P Cosmetics, Via Alcide De Gasperi, 8, 52037 Sansepolcro AR, Italy. • 15–18 September 2019 SEPTEMBER 2019
ELITE & ESON – P4H CREATIVITY IN ACTION Location & Date: • De Vere Horwood Estate, Mursley Road, Little Horwood, Milton Keynes, MK17 0PH. • 09 September 2019 Eufora Salon Owner Network (ESON): The Eufora Salon Owner Network is a peer–to–peer networking group for like–minded and growth–oriented salon owners. Local chapter members dedicate themselves to working together to make better decisions, achieve better results and become better leaders for their salons and our industry. Eufora Elite Team (Eufora Specialist): The Eufora Salon Specialist program provides an opportunity for passionate Eufora stylists to become more involved
Join us for our 3–day Colour Masterclass in Tuscany. This trip is for advanced stylists and challenges even the best colourists to be better. Business Building through advanced technical, this trip is fun and informative and includes a peek in to how hair colour is made via a tour of the Sens.us factory. • 1500 points or £510.00+VAT per person sharing
CORRECTIVE COLOUR Location & Date: • Feathers Hair Salon, 35 George Yard, Braintree, CM7 2QB. • 30 September 2019 Discover colour correction in a practical, hands–on training session, using Malibu C professional products and Sens.us colour. • 250 points or £85.00+VAT per person sharing
Learn from the very best! On this one– day styling seminar you will work with an award–winning hairdresser! Exploring the world of contrasts and the duality of style. Learn how to play with different styles using your design abilities and challenge yourself to go beyond your creative boundaries. Learn all there is to know about the Schwarzkopf OSIS and Session styling range. Inspire your customers and show them the full range of the latest inspiring style trends. Sleek vs. big hair, short vs. long, street–look vs. avant– garde, wavy vs. curly…become the style expert and showcase your stunning and cutting–edge creations on social media. HOW TO BOOK: Visit: askacademy.co.uk Call: ASK Academy on: 01442 278 000 For Ireland call: 01-4046424 Email: ASKacademy@henkel.com
SalonNV Magazine | 101
NEW TO E-CHAIR.COM e-chair.com is an online platform for chair and space rental at the forefront of revolutionising how freelance hair and beauty professionals work. Check out the latest salons with space to rent on e-chair.com now.
M D ’S B E A U T Y L O U N G E Glasgow
Negotiable
MD’s Beauty Lounge in Glasgow is the newest go–to hair and beauty destination. They have chairs to rent in a brand new stunning city centre salon on Bath Street. They use the best products and have chairs available with and without products. We have 2 x salon chairs, 1 x nail station and 1 x MUA space available. If you are interested in renting a space please send us a message and we will provide more information. Contact Muna: 07543 750858
NEUTON HAIR SALON London
POA
We have available a chair to hire for a hairdresser that wants to be more independent, who already established a follower or larger follower base and wants to serve in a professional environment, wants flexibility with schedule but is not yet in a position to open his\her own salon. We’d also like you to be someone who looks after the salon as well as your colleagues working at Neuton, so an independent team–player is the best way to describe who we are looking for. Rent by negotiation. Contact Dani: neutonhairsalon@gmail.com
KO D E B E A U T Y Glasgow
POA
Fantastic opportunity for talented MUAs and hairdressers to work in our trendy new upmarket salon. Situated in the West End, near all bus, subway and train routes and also with off-road parking available. Perks of working in KODE include; great footfall, social media coverage, forward–thinking salon as well as a lovely working environment and a supportive team. Brilliant salon with great potential for artists to expand and build a client base. Contact: 07927216226
102 | SalonNV Magazine
10B A R B E R I N G Glasgow
£300 per week or 50/50 split
10Barbering is based in a super city centre location in Glasgow with excellent passing trade. The position would suit an experienced barber who wants to be their own boss and manage their own diary. Rate is negotiable with either fixed rate or 50/50 split arrangement. Contact Zak: 07555 115 285
THE SOCIAL London
£120 per day
The Social is at the forefront of changing how the hair industry thinks. Creating a world lifestyle studio in true collaborative fashion, they are based in London and the Lake District, encouraging the flexible work ethos of the ‘freelancer’ community. They embrace your sporadic movements and let you take control of your own time, money and opportunities. With five chairs available or the whole salon and/or the Social Studio, photo studio. Three hair or makeup chairs and two barber chairs. Contact: ky@kycut.co.uk
GLOW N GL AMOUR SALON Glasgow
£35 per day
Glow N Glamour is an award–winning salon on Victoria Road in Glasgow’s southside and they have a great rate available for a chair to rent, immediate start available. Contact: 07464596786
MIA STRADA Glasgow
Negotiable
We are located in a prime location in the Argyll Chambers on Buchanan Street, Glasgow, directly across from House of Frasers. We have space available to rent for a hair stylist, makeup artist and a nail technician. Prices and days are negotiable so please get in touch for more information or prices. glasgow@miastradasalons.com
SalonNV Magazine | 103
RICK ROBERTS AFRO COLLECTION
104 | SalonNV Magazine
Hair: Rick Roberts Photography: Desmond Murray Makeup: Jo Sugar Stylist: Bernard Connelly
SalonNV Magazine | 105
RICK ROBERTS
IN THE CHAIR
EACH ISSUE SALONNV BRING YOU SHORT INTERVIEWS WITH SOME OF T H E B E S T I N T H E I N D U S T R Y. ALL SPONSORED BY E-CHAIR.COM.
SPONSORED BY
B
efore he was a multi-awardwinning hairdresser, before his name was known across the four corners of the hair industry, Rick Roberts was an electrician. Starting his hair journey in a local salon in Leeds, Rick ended up progressing in his career and finding his love of hairdressing. Recognised for his work with Afro hair, Rick spent his incredible career creating diverse collections that showcase his broad skill set, including barbering, colour, and hair up techniques. Rick, who has just won the Big Shot Haircut award at Behind the Chair. Now, he tells SalonNV about his experience in the industry, and how it has changed over his career. SNV: How has the industry changed since you started? RR: The industry’s changed in a lot of ways. Now there’s more things for smaller salons to let their great stylists go and make more of a name for themselves. I think I relate to a lot of small salons because I came from a small salon. We’re a little bit more creative and push the boundaries—I feel like everything’s more accepted. Social media has trained the industry massively. Everybody can take a picture and put it online. Now, every company needs people who are influencers. The best thing about it [Instagram] is that they’re talking about getting rid of the followers and likes. SNV: How do you think that would change hair on social media? RR: Don’t get me wrong you do want people to like your pictures, but at the moment it’s taking a bit away from life. It will probably be a good thing for the industry because you just look at it because it’s good hair, not because of how many ‘likes’ it has. When you put a portfolio together you don’t put loads of likes on it, you do it because you love it. I feel like Instagram has been a good and bad thing at the same time. And you get so many editing suites online; you don’t know what’s real and what isn’t.
106 | SalonNV Magazine
SNV: What’s your advice for entering competitions? RR: Just do what you love. Follow the brief but put your own spin on it, and don’t copy. Don’t lose your trademark, if you don’t, you’re basically tracing someone else’s work. There are too many people that will trace work, because they know what’s won in previous years. You’ve got to take inspiration from lots of things. When I do my collections I’ll do a mood board on my phone and delete all the things I don’t like. Then I start putting my own spin on it. My biggest advice is to not lose your personality, put all your passion and creativity into it, and when you’re in front of the camera do it a little bit bigger because everything’s a little smaller on camera. Don’t get disheartened. You lose more times than you win. I’ve won quite a bit, but I’ve been a finalist more times than I’ve won. Just see competitions as an educational experience. a till and see the only but not the bills. SNV: Where do you draw inspiration from? RR: You see inspiration everywhere and a lot of it is in magazines. We all look in magazines and see what’s fashion forward. My BHA entry this year is very fashion and I’m drawing from the worlds of catwalks, Vogue and ID magazine because a lot of magazines are out there. What I try to do sometimes is merge the looks form those magazines to something you’d see in Elle. For my Afro Collection, there was a Vogue cover that looked similar, but in a different colour to my collection. Try and get inspiration from everywhere. I screenshotted a look I saw online, and you can paint over it and I put my own spin on the image. Just look at things a little bit differently. SNV: What’s your biggest pet peeve? RR: One saying I do hate is ‘be your own king, don’t just be a pawn’. Sometimes it suits people to be a pawn. Being a king comes with all the responsibilities! It’s not easy, they look at
SNV: What advice would you give to young hair professionals? RR: It’s never too late to start a career. It’s never too late to start pushing yourself. The thing I hate to hear is ‘I’m too old now’, if you’re thinking about it do it. I’m known for being on stage and asking people to support me, if people want to ask me for advice, help on a photoshoot or on stage I will always help. We’re an industry who should help the young ones because that’s who we were at the beginning. My advice would be to go and assist, reach out and if you see someone online you like, ask them for advice, you might not get an answer back straight away. But it’s nice to get advice from someone who’s already been there, and I feel like I owe it to others now. Be humble and be nice to people. And when you’re climbing the ladder of success make sure it’s leaning against the right wall because there’s too many who climb the wrong wall too fast and they need to figure it all out again.
Find Hidden Heights, Gateshead on e-chair.com
Work anytime, anywhere, any place Join e-chair.com today and find businesses with salon space to rent in your area
“Our industry is going through a huge shift with so many stylists taking control of their careers... I see this being a new standard in freelance hairdressing, offering a whole new avenue of revenue for stylists and salon owners alike.� Jonathan Andrew, Hairdresser
Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules
Join today at e-chair.com
We’re here FOR YOU
inspire WE educate WE excite WE
For all your
HAIR & BEAUTY NEEDS VISIT OUR BLOG FOR MORE INSPIRATION SALON-SERVICES.COM/BLOGS
SHOP YOUR WAY salon-services.com
0330 123 1907
in store