SalonNV Issue 13

Issu e 13

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I n s p i r i ng U K & I r e l a n d s a l o n s uc c e s s

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Aesthetics | Beauty | Hairdressing | Nails | Tanning www.SalonNV.co.uk | 1

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Welcome T

he weather is heating up and hopefully your salon is as well.

If you’re looking to build up your client base, and let’s face it, who isn’t? Then you’ll love our exclusive chat with Nick Arrojo, the Manchester stylist who is now one of the biggest names in the business in the United States. He’s full of tips and advice on how to increase your bottom line.

If you’re thinking about expanding your staff by bringing on an apprentice, we put a Rainbow Room apprentice and salon owner against one another to discover the pros and cons and the best way to go about it.

It’s competition season and the finalist of the prestigious L’Oreal Colour Trophy have just been announced. We’re delighted to reveal them all here and wish them the best of luck for what will be an amazing grand finale in London in June. Keep an eye out for all the styles and creations in the next issue, as well as the big winner.

We’ve also got the winner of the Create the Look competition in this issue, a truly

stunning piece of work that suggests big things to come from stylist Lance Breakwell, while Matthew Curtis worked his glamour on the TOWIE team for an elegant photoshoot.

As usual there’s a look at some top hair and beauty salons, with Natalie Allen, owner of Harvey Luke Salons in Derby, describing how she keeps three salons at the top of their game. While Sharon Cameron is an award winning beauty therapist in Glasgow who is showing how innovation and technology can keep your clients coming back for more.

Our regular columnists are their usual expert selves, with fantastic behind the curtain knowledge from the likes of Carl Bembridge, Erin Gavin, and Kay Corbett, revealing the secrets behind the topend of the industry.

Preparations are well underway for this year’s Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards with all the entrants in and voting happening as we speak. It’s taking place at the Marriot in Glasgow on September 10th and is promising to be even bigger and better than last year’s extravaganza.

We can’t wait, and hope to see you here!

Joanne X

Joanne Reid | Editor-In-Chief

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www.salonnv.co.uk Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success Founder & Editor-in-chief Joanne Reid | Sub Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil Cover Image Hair: Cover Image – Tony Le-Britton Photographer: Richard Miles, Styling: Clare Frith MUA: Diane Alexander Thanks Mr Haircare - Emil McMahon, CocorocoPR, Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, Barber Cut, B TheAgency, Su-pr, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Hairdressing Council, Takara Belmont, Nicola Smyth, Nick Arrojo, Larry the Barber Man, Wella, Kay Corbett, Meduda Hairdressing, Carl Bembridge, Byron Hairdressing, Dr Darren McKeown, Energy Hair, Kestin Hare, Rush Hair, Q Hair and Beauty, Rainbow Room International, Sharon Cameron, Epibrow, Natalie Allen, Erin Gavin.

Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 2125 525 | Web www.SalonNV.co.uk Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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New Indola The world’s smartest colour system – Best in class Color Pixel Technology for flawless coverage and vibrancy – Game-changing Color Transformer to convert every permanent shade into a demi – Everything you need to create Street Style inspired looks your clients want now

indola.com 4 | SalonNV Magazine

#SimplySmarter

News NEWS

06

industry bodies

09

fellowship monday

10

shaba 2017

12

L’OREAL COLOUR TROPHY

14

Products

Columnists 30

KAY CORBETT

32

CARL BEMBRIDGE

35

EMIL MCMAHON

67

ERIN GAVIN

Features 18

nick arrojo

36 DR DARREN MCKEOWN:

PROFOUND 38 new shops

Editor’s choice

20

46 APPRENTICE VS SALON OWNER

hair

21

48 CREATE THE LOOK

HAIR EXTENSIONS

22

BODY, TANNING & WAXING

23

SKIN & MAKE-UP

24

NAILS, HANDS & FEET

25

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

26

WELLBEING & AESTHETICS

27

50 SHARON CAMERON 51 vampire facial 62 MALE GROOMING 66 BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN REPORT 70 SOFIE POK

Education 34 CUSTOMER SURVEYS 64 NATALIE ALLEN

Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success

Contents Issue 13

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Steering The Fellowship The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has appointed Karine Jackson as President.

Client satisfaction leads to Byron win The Kingdom of Fife crowned Byron Hairdressing winner of its Excellence in Customer Services award on Friday, the only hair salon to be singled out in the whole of the region.

Part of the Fife Chamber of Commerce’s annual Business Awards ceremony, the Excellence in Customer Services trophy went to Byron to celebrate its superlative, personalised client experience.

“I’m thrilled that Byron has been recognised for the consistency and quality of our client care as we believe it is just as important to our clients and our business as our expertise in styling, cutting and colouring hair,” said Ronnie Marshall, owner of the Kirkcaldy salon.

“We work hard to develop real and lasting relationships with every single client who comes to our salon, putting them at the centre of everything we do.”

Byron Hairdressing, which this year celebrates 25 years in business, recently surveyed its clientele, discovering that more than 40 per cent had been coming to the salon for more than 10 years and a further 20 per cent for more than five.

Aussie Hair The inaugural Hair Expo POP UP proved an instant success in Melbourne, leaving Australian hair professionals inspired by a weekend of independent education, networking, and access to some of the industry’s newest innovations.

Held for the first time alongside Beauty Expo Melbourne, the education driven, pop-up style event was designed to provide a taste of Hair Expo Australia for those who cannot make the main event in Sydney this year. Over the course of the weekend, there were more than 5,000 visits by hair and beauty professionals to the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre for the event, which provided an opportunity to connect face-toface with suppliers and learn about the latest product trends and technologies in the hair and beauty industry.

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Karine is the third female President to take the role, with a tenure running from April 2017 to April 2019, and was the unanimous choice of the AGM. Having just completed a two-year role as Chancellor, Karine brings a wealth of experience and Fellowship knowledge to the position.

She said: “I’m really looking forward to this new role, it’s a real honour for me. I can’t wait to get started, working closely with the team and council to promote the hairdressing industry and our professional standards.”

Outgoing President Bruno Marc said: “I can’t think of a better president to hand over the baton to, Karine has been an amazing asset to The Fellowship, she has huge energy and vision for the next phase.”

Charlie Miller celebrations Charlie Miller’s annual Achievement Awards Presentation Dinner saw the teams from all five salons gathered to celebrate the success and achievements of the past year.

A night of glitz, glamour, and, of course, awards, saw 24 trophies handed out to deserving winners from across the salons at the Radisson Blu hotel on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile in March.

Presented by Charlie Miller Directors and Managers along with representatives from L’Oreal Professional and ghd Profressional,

the highly glamorous event was hosted by award-winning radio and TV presenter Grant Stott. It was a chance for the whole team to bask in the glory of another fantastic year for the chain.

Top prize, the Grand Prix Award for ‘Outstanding Hairdresser of the Year’, was presented to Holy Corner’s Salon Manager Amber Swift, whilst Ocean Terminal’s Salon Manager Cat Nicholson was presented with a diamond ring in honour of her loyalty and support over the past 20 years.

Hairdresser of the Year Patrick Cameron was presented with the Tocado Award for International Hairdresser of the Year at Cosmobeauty Barcelona.

It was a big weekend for Patrick who had first appeared at Top Hair in Dusseldorf, Germany to present his 2017 collection, Goddess, before heading to Barcelona for the Tocado Awards. The awards recognise the greatest talents in the national and international hairdressing world and are a fantastic opportunity for professional hairdressers to come together and celebrate the creativity and art within the hairdressing industry.

FHA BootCamp

The Freelance Hairdressers’ Association has partnered with Alan d Hairdressing Education to bring training days specifically designed around the needs of FHA members.

The first one, a one-day cut and colour seminar on 3rd April, was presented by Edward Hemmings with his Creative Education Team members Kevin Day and Gitta P. In the morning the group were presented with three key looks and had the opportunity to recreate them in the afternoon.

Following on from the success of this event, the FHA has now planned a series of training days exclusively around the needs of FHA members with Alan d. From BootCamp – Barbering to BootCamp – Bridal and Proms, and even BootCamp – YourChoice where you book the course and tell the team what you want to learn.

High Definition in Guild award High Definition has taken home two awards at The Guild Awards of Excellence 2017 to further cement its position as one of the industry’s top brands.

Voted for by thousands of beauty professionals, High Definition scooped the awards for Best Eyebrow Cosmetics Supplier and Best Eyebrow Treatment Supplier amidst fierce competition from

big names in the business.

Karen Betts, CEO of High Definition, said: “Winning prestigious awards in both the cosmetics and brow categories, after being in competition with some of the strongest contenders in the beauty industry, is a great achievement for the brand and really is testament to the hard work all of my team and our incredible stylists put in.”

For more details contact enquiries@thefha.org.uk

Hospice handout Patients in Scotland’s newest hospice will now be able to avail themselves of the services of a new hair salon thanks to the efforts of award-winning Glasgow stylist Taylor Ferguson.

Taylor and his wife Anne sponsored the setting up of the purpose-designed salon in the Kilbryde Hospice in East Kilbride and this week officially opened the new facility.

They first became involved in the salon plan after an approach by one of the hospice’s directors and major benefactor, Lady Haughey, a client at Taylor’s salon.

Lady Haughey said: “The hospice team is enormously grateful to Taylor and Anne for their enthusiastic and generous backing of the salon project.

“This is another positive step in us being able to provide a wide range of services to our patients.”

Dr. Nestor clinic in dream start Regular SalonNV contributor Dr Nestor Demosthenous is celebrating after his Medical Cosmetic Centre was named Best New Clinic at the Scottish Medical Cosmetic Awards 2017.

are looking forward to celebrating our first anniversary of the clinic in the coming months, and will continue to deliver the highest standard of service and care to our patients.”

Dr Nestor commented, “My team and I are honoured to be named as the Best New Clinic in Scotland. We are dedicated to creating a space that patients enjoy visiting, and to providing only the very best results for them, so we are delighted that our hard work has been recognised by the industry so early in our journey. We

Dr Nestor and his team were also lauded with other commendations on the night, with Dr Nestor receiving ‘Highly Commended’ and Dr Lauren Jamieson-Smylie receiving ‘Commended’ in the Best Cosmetic Doctor category, and clinic manager Lynsey Crosbie receiving ‘Highly Commended’ in the Best Admin Team category.

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Charlie Miller Hair Salon and Training Academy had a prestigious guest when Her Royal Highness Princess

Look Awards Linton & Mac, the award-winning hair salon in Aberdeen and former SalonNV Salon of the Month, has been shortlisted in the 2017 Look Awards for Best Use of Social Media.

The salon is no stranger to the awards circuit and most recently scooped up Best Aberdeen Business from the Aberdeen Business Awards, the One To Watch at The Look Awards, the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Men’s Image Award at the Scottish Regional Final, and most recently, they have been shortlisted for Hair Magazine’s The Cut Awards Regional Salon of the Year and have finalised in the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final.

Anne paid a visit to highlight the company’s 50th year in business.

Unveiling a commemorative plaque to mark the company’s half century of service, creativity, innovation, education, and business growth, The Princess Royal also heard more about the company’s work with the Hair 4 U project and referral patients from the Teenage Cancer Trust (TCT) units.

Her Royal Highness was welcomed on arrival by Her Majesty’s Lord-Lieutenant of the City of Edinburgh, Councillor Donald Wilson, the Rt Hon The Lord Provost and

introduced to co-founders Charlie Miller OBE and Janet Miller, their sons Jason & Joshua Miller (Joint Managing Directors), India Miller (Director) who, alongside husband Jason, is regarded around the world as being amongst the UK’s most influential hair designers, and Ian Blyth (Director and Educator).

The Princess Royal was shown around by Jason & Joshua Miller and during her tour Charlie Miller OBE introduced The Princess Royal to his very first young cancer patient Liza Freeland whose real hair wig he cut and styled in 2007. The Princess Royal was also introduced to TCT referral patient Amy Connelly and representatives from the Western General and Hospital for Sick Kids.

Linton & Mac will go head to head with BLOW, Notorious Nails, and ONYX Labs, at a glittering awards ceremony held in Glasgow on 14 May.

Hair raising A study conducted by hair and beauty salon business insurance provider SME Insurance Services has found that British women spend an average of £146.11 a year at the hairdressers. Averaging out at a spend of £118.12 per year, it means the hair salon industry is worth an incredible £6 billion annually.

The study revealed that men visit their barber almost three times as much as women head to the salon (11 times to four), but that men will generally spend less than women over the course of the year.

Unsurprisingly for us non-confrontational Brits, only 40% would complain if they weren’t happy with their haircut, but 42% would then find a different salon or stylist in the future. So it pays to make sure your client is truly happy before they walk out that door!

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Organic growth for Oway In a first of its kind for a product manufacturer, Oway has launched a unique ‘Ortofficinia’ farm that sees the medicinal plants used in its ecofriendly product line grown according to their own biodynamic farming methods.

Every process occurs without the harsh use of chemical substances or solvents, respecting the plant and the environment, while allowing the purest, most concentrated and effective

ingredients to be obtained.

Plants including rosemary, lemon balm, thyme, and mit and grown, harvested, and distilled, before essential oils and hydrolates are utilised as 100% natural active ingredients and fragrances in its formulas. By eliminating the chemicals usually associated with such products, they have created products that are healthier and more natural than ever before.

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is an organisation dedicated to the sheer creative excellence of the hairdressing industry. The Fellowship calendar is packed full of education and the last few months have been no different.

London Masterclass The Fellowship held their highly-esteemed London Masterclass at Opal Bar in London on 20 March. Drawing from an abundance of The Fellowship’s finest performers, the place was alive and abuzz. The stellar line-up represented the diversity and different of The Fellowship today, with names such as Jamie Stevens, Johnny Shanahan, and Errol Douglas MBE taking the stage. The night had a cool and vibrant atmosphere where hairdressing’s art form was enjoyed by the audience whilst they networked, socialized, and connected with one another as they got up-close-and-personal with the Fellowship masters at work.

Member’s Night Member’s Night in London is fast approaching!

19 June will see Fellowship members and artistic teams come together at Wella World Studio to celebrate each other’s talent and enjoy inspiring stage presentations. It is always a highly-anticipated event and is attended by both members and non-members. It’s a great way to find out more about The Fellowship, meet some like-minded hairdressers and top up your inspiration tank! Head to www. fellowshiphair.com to download an application form and get yourself on the line-up.

F.A.M.E. Team 2018 Applications The search for the 2018 F.A.M.E. Team has begun! Standing for The Fellowship Academy of Merit and Excellence, this annual initiative is amongst the most highly esteemed in the industry. It has been described as the stepping stone to becoming a hairdressing megastar and past members include industry greats such as Umberto Giannini and Zoe Irwin. If you’ve always dreamt of being given this possibility of future stardom in the hairdressing industry, now is your chance to put your name in the hat. You will need to be aged between 21 and 30 on 1.1.18, be a Fellowship member or working in a Fellowship member’s salon and be fully qualified with a minimum of three years’ experience. To request an application, all you need to do is email carol@fellowshiphair.com and have your completed application returned by 12 May 2017.

The Fellowship

I was delighted to recently be invited by Hairdressers Journal International, to be one of the judging panel for this year’s British Hairdressing Business Awards.

Long recognised in the industry, together with the prestigious British Hairdressing Awards, as the pinnacle in accolades in the Hairdressing industry, it is a privilege to have been asked and one, which I was extremely pleased to accept.

Our annual summer tea party on The House of Commons Terrace is edging ever closer.

For those of you that aren’t aware of the date, it is Monday June 12th from 4pm until 6pm.

Our sincere thanks to all of you that have shown interest in this event and Ellie will be contacting you shortly to let you know the result of the ballot for these much sought after tickets.

We are still in the process of confirming the speakers for this year’s event, but other than that we are all on track for a lovely afternoon in Parliament! Just hope the weather doesn’t let us down, the one thing we cannot control!

At the Strategic Executive Group meeting on the 6th April, Mike Patey (a member of The Council) and myself presented a new marketing strategy to the group, outlining a proposal to really start to beef up The Hair and Barber Council in terms of; Branding, New benefits to members (currently negotiating/putting together a pack of discounted courses exclusively for our members), A brand new and comprehensive member pack, Promoting our Key Objectives, Confirming and broadening our policy positions, Public Relations and how to use them in the best and most cost effective way, Mechanics of membership, Together with some new initiatives that I will outline to you once agreed in principle at this meeting and ratified at the full Council meeting in May. It really is crucial that we start to ‘nail’ this area of the business, which is one that I see, as being extremely important as the ‘reinvention’ of The Hair and Barber Council unfolds. We have to get our voice out to industry and to the consumer in a much more specific, direct and clear way. Our great industry must be properly recognised as the professionals we purport to be, and this can only be realised when mandatory registration comes into being.

The Hairdressing Council

The NHF’s 75th Anniversary Business Awards The NHF is hosting a prestigious awards evening in Birmingham on Sunday 19 November to celebrate the success of some of the best businesses in the industry. The NHF’s 75th Anniversary Business Awards opened on Wednesday 1 March 2017 and are free for NHF and non-members to enter at www.nhf.info/nhfbusinessawards.

Hair and beauty professionals have until 28 July 2017 to choose from one of nine categories to enter, with tickets to attend the event priced at £95 (for NHF members) and £150 (for non-members).

Tax free childcare scheme From 28 April 2017, the government’s tax free childcare scheme will be introduced to replace childcare vouchers and will encourage more hairdressers and therapists with children under the age of 12 to go out to work, says the NHF. Eligible parents will be able to open an online account through the government’s website, GOV.UK, which they can then pay into to cover the cost of childcare with a registered provider. The government will make a 20% contribution to childcare, so for every £8 paid into the account, the government will add an extra £2 (up to £2,000 per child).

The tax free childcare scheme follows the government’s announcement of a rise in the weekly amount that mothers on maternity leave will receive. In the UK, most mothers can take up to 39 weeks of guaranteed pay at £140.98, (which rose from £139.58 on 2 April 2017).

Key changes that will impact hairdressing apprenticeships From 1 May 2017, changes will be taking place that will affect hairdressing apprenticeships in England. Here, the NHF has emphasised what they will look like: The new apprenticeships will be based on a ‘hair professional’ standards developed by ‘Trailblazer’ groups of employers, They will be set at a higher level than the existing Level 2 NVQ, At the end of the apprenticeship training programme, Independent Apprenticeship Examiners will carry out practical tests For further information on apprenticeships, visit www.nhf.info/forms/apprenticeshipguide/ and download the NHF’s free apprenticeship guide, which is also available for non-members.

NHF

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A very Fellowship Monday Across London, The Fellowship hosted not one, not two, not three, but four fantastic events for their members and teams on Monday 27th of March. Here’s a rundown of everything that took place around the capital.

The F.A.M.E Team

London Masterclass

A visit to Wella World Studios saw The F.A.M.E Team collaborating with Jayson Gray and Sarah Chesnais who showed them unique and kooky looks inspired by ‘misfits’ and 90s grunge. After speaking to the team about the importance of being yourself and forgetting the rules, Jayson then mentored the team in pairs as they learned how vital it is to work together to achieve your goals.

The biggest event of this busy Fellowshipfilled day was the London Masterclass with an abundance of talent performing. Jamie Stevens, Ashleigh Hodges, Dan Spiller, Johnny BaBa, Chris Foster, Junior Green, Rick Roverts, Jake UNgar, Errol Douglas, Oon Ng, Sam Burnett, Jamie Benny, and Cos Sakkas completed a truly stellar line-up that celebrated the diversity and skill throughout the Fellowship. Hosted in the Opal Bar by Karine Jackson and Mark Creed, the cool and vibrant atmosphere allowed everyone to relax and enjoy the show, while picking up tips and skills as they networked with their fellow stylists.

The Project X Team Over at the Alan D Academy, The Project X Team embarked on their mentor day as a team. This time it was a day with Richard Phillipart, getting an insight into the world of session styling. As well as talking them through his own career and giving them an insight into his thought processes when creating his looks, he brought his techniques to life on a model. The afternoon was spent with Richard guiding the team through their own models and giving them a range of tips on everything from shooting on a budget, to sourcing your own models.

The Colour Project Team They say the first shoot you collaborate on as a team is the most difficult but if so The Colour Project Team will be very pleased with themselves as by all accounts their day shooting at Jack Eames’s photography studio went perfectly. Directed by their mentor Chris Williams, with Jack on photography, and Bernard Connolly styling, they worked all the latest trends into their images and we can’t wait to see the results.

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Glasgow Masterclass

I

t wasn’t just London that saw Fellowship events taking place on Monday 27th March, with Scotland also playing host to a fabulous night of hairdressing.

The Glasgow Masterclass was held at the Drygate brewery, with over 150 audience members in attendance to enjoy an evening of boundary pushing styling. Taking to the Fellowship’s stage armed with their kit bags and models were Gillian Stolley, Joe Rawsthorne, Diana Carson, Cat Nicholson, Sophie Laidlaw, Paul Paterson, Bruce Masefield, and Colin McAndrew. Fellowship ambassador Errol Douglas MBE also made a special trip up north for the event to take in the talent in Glasgow.

As an organisation promoting acclaimed creative excellence, the Fellowship representatives explained the careerlong benefits associated with Fellowship membership whilst putting on an entertaining, informative and inspiring show where the Scottish audience enthralled from beginning to end, finishing with a champagne reception.

“The Glasgow Masterclass was absolutely excellent,” said Bruno, “the models looked exceptional and the thought that had gone into the make-up and styling was just amazing. A fantastic night had by all!”

Jennifer Cheyne OBE was the special guest of the night, taking the stage for a live interview with host Bruno Marc on her hairdressing career, motivation, and managing her employees. She spoke with passion about how her team’s focus and determination really inspires her. As a previous Fellowship President, she added that “The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is such a brilliant organisation as we can expand our knowledge and it’s a great platform for education and stage work.”

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SHABA#17

I

t’s the biggest night for the hair and beauty community in Scotland, when over 500 top industry professionals come together to celebrate the creativity and passion that drives them forward.

The Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards returns to the Marriot Hotel, Glasgow on Sunday, September 10th 2017 for a night even more glitzy and glamorous than ever before. Now in its 7th year, the awards are the pinnacle of achievement in the industry with past winners including Jennifer Cheyne, Charlie Miller, Trevor Sorbie, and Sam McKnight.

Celebrating the best of the best, the prestigious awards

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have become the most sought after prize in the industry, attracting widespread attention not only in Scotland but across the United Kingdom and beyond.

Last year’s event was the highlight of the hair and beauty calendar. Hosted by TV personalities George Lamb and Josie Smith, it saw Phillip Bell handed a lifetime achievement award for decades of service to making the people of Scotland beautiful. With guests including Miss Great Britain Deone Robertson and Big Brother’s Calum Best enjoying live entertainment from The X Factor’s Sean Miley Moore, it was a night that no one will forget.

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L’Oreal Colour Trophy 2017 Grand Finalists

Finalists Announced

After months of preparation,

weeks of hard work, and then

one night of sheer inspiration and creativity, the talented individuals and salons who will be battling it out in London take home one of

the coveted L’Oréal Colour Trophy awards have been announced.

On Monday 5th stylists from

around the United Kingdom will unite at Battersea Evolution to

showcase the skills and flair that

have made them the most sought after hairdressers in their regions.

Tickets are available from

lorealcolourtrophy.com/tickets

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L’Oréal Colour Trophy – Women’s Image Award

L’Oréal Colour Trophy STAR Award (Individual colourist aged between 18-24 years)

John Carne, Guildford Headmasters, Brighton Simon Webster Hair, Brighton Zappas, Fleet Petras House of Colour, Armagh Andrew Mulvenna Hair, Belfast McGills, Ballycastle

Charlotte Ellis, Kennadys, Ingatestone Harriet Stokes, Not Another Salon Charlotte Knight, The Gallery Hair & Beauty, Kent Emily Walker, TONI & GUY, Bournemouth Chloe Heath, Byard, Reds Hair Company Georgia Kirven, Frances Marshall, Sunderland Georgina Haplin, No 77 Creative Hair, Lancashire

Surgery Hairdressing, Moy

Emma Doherty, Copperfields Hairdressing

Hair by Jones, Monmouth

Rachel Walshe, Bobs, Magherafelt

Seanhanna, Bristol Bloggs Salons, Harbourside AKA Professional Hairdressing, Bristol Hair Directory, Inverness Charlie Miller, Edinburgh Linton & Mac, Aberdeen Alan Edwards Salon, Glasgow Olsen & Olsen Hairdressing, Liverpool The Colour Room, Stockport Royston Blythe, Shrewsbury

L’Oréal Colour Trophy Men’s Image Award Atchison Hair, Magherafelt Andrew Mulvenna Hair, Belfast VAE Hair, Norfolk Alan D Hairdressing Education, Ipswich Abacus, Bewdley The Burdes Nest, Gloucester

Toni & Guy, Deansgate

Cutting Room Creative, Leeds

Contemporary Hair Academy, Middlesbrough

Electric Hairdressing, Brighton

Bang Bishy Road, York Hays Sisters, Hull At Sisters, Newcastle Nashwhite, Leamington Spa Royston Blythe, Wolverhampton Hazel & Hayden, Birmingham Love the salon, Gloucester VAE Hair, Norfolk Kennadys, Ingatestone

Westrow, Leeds The Chapel, Kent Trevor Sorbie, Manchester L20 The Salon, Bootle Jason Hall Hairdressing, Edinburgh Copperfields Hairdressing and Beauty, Perth Bloggs Salons, Bristol Chaye Cooper & Co, Eastleigh The Social London Brooks & Brooks

The Gallery Haircutters, Norwich Faces Hairdressing, Colchester Brooks & Brooks Toni & Guy, Canary Wharf Headquarters Hair Salon The Lion & The Fox

L’Oréal Colour Trophy Afro Look Award Elements Salon, Hampstead, London The Gallery, Southborough Cutting Room Creative, Town Street, Leeds Francesco Group Academy, Stafford Francesco Group Academy, Birmingham Toni & Guy Covent Garden, London Nashwhite, Leamington Spa Urban Qtr, Beverley

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after hours Hair:

Nicola Smyth

Make-up

Naomi McKeever

Styling:

Desiree Lederer

Photography: Richard Miles

After Hours.

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Nick Arrojo Our Coffee Break Chat, Sure To Perk Up Your Hair Styling And Bottom Line…

“A lot of salon owners don’t necessarily understand how to make their business a success” Welcome to this Larry the Barber Man interview with Nick Arrojo! For those of you who aren’t familiar with my work, my name is Larry Campbell and I tour the globe speaking to the best hair stylists from across the industry and from all walk s of life, asking them to share their knowledge so that other hair professionals can benefit.

While a lot of the work I’ve done has surrounded barbering, I’m really interested in helping people from across the industry better themselves and learn new skills, so I’ll never miss the opportunity to pick the brain of an incredible hairdresser like Nick.

Towers in 2001 when 9/11 happened. I was renting a couple of chairs inside a school in Soho, I was working for one week and then downtown became a no-go area and I was homeless. I was sleeping on couches at friend’s houses.”

I’m sure the majority of you will already be familiar with Nick’s work, but to fill you in on the key facts this man owns the Arrojo Studio, with several separate salons, an educational school, and a product range; he’s also cut hair for A-List celebrity clients including Bryan Adams, Minnie Driver, and Victoria Wood and appeared as the resident stylist on What Not to Wear for seven years. Suffice to say, there’s a lot to learn from such a well-accomplished and multi-faceted man.

What really struck me, though, is how he managed to turn this around, growing the business he has today:

The Path to Success Every interview I run has one thing in common, and that’s the origin story: I’m personally fascinated by how hairdressers and barbers get into the industry, and I think that looking at the beginning of a journey can help us learn from it. From starting at the age of 16, Nick’s career quickly took off: “I started working when I was 16 in Manchester, I worked with Vidal Sassoon. I had a very successful tenure with them and then I moved to London, I worked for Wella and that was where I got to start experiencing a lot of international events and international hairdressers. Then my dream was always to move to New York City, and my dream came true in 1994 when I came to work for Bumble & Bumble, and they sponsored me and brought me to America.”

Not everything has come easy for Nick though, and at one point in his career he found himself homeless.

This came in the aftermath of the terrible 9/11 attacks in America: “I lived a block away from the Twin

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“I started my salon in 2001 and had a staff of four – two assistants, a receptionist and me. I slowly built it, step by step I was building my brand. Today I have three salons, one in Soho, one in Tribeca, and one in Brooklyn. And they’re big salons, so I have a staff of 150 people. I also developed a cosmetology school because I really think that education is the key to success.

“In America, you have to get licensed – so you don’t do an apprenticeship, you have to go and get your license before you can even work in a salon. I really wanted to get into that business and affect hairdressing at a grassroots level. And then the final pillar was for me to do products, I’ve helped companies develop products and at a certain point it was time for me to develop my own.”

The Philosophy Behind Big Hairdressing Business One of the things that made me so keen to bring you an interview with Nick is the fact that he has a lot of great insight into the business behind being a successful salon owner and hairdresser. In my experience, many hairdressers, stylists and barbers that are great at what they do want to open up salons, but many don’t have the business knowledge to take it further. With that in mind, here are Nick’s thoughts on the importance of specialisation: “When I talk about specialisation I really mean what

is your USP – your Unique Selling Point, or your Unique Styling Perspective, and that’s what it should be. Your USP has to change, it shouldn’t stay the same because you’re always in a state of reinvention. I started hairdressing as a specialist in hair cutting when I worked with Vidal Sassoon, the art and craft of cutting hair with a scissor. When I left Vidal Sassoon I decided to change my technique, I evolved and started to cut hair with a razor, so I cut hair with a switchblade and that gives me a different texture and a different feel.

Now we have American Wave; we’ve reinvented the perm.

I’m also really focusing on business education – because a lot of salon owners don’t necessarily understand how to make their business a success.

Usually the path of a hairdresser is to become busy: one you become a success behind the chair it’s time for you to move onto the next step of the journey. I share my unique perspective, because I started my business in New York from very little, and I’ve grown it into a multimillion dollar business with a lot of employees. I share my trials and tribulations – what I’ve learned.

I’m a firm believer that there’s enough room for everybody to be successful in our industry, but in order to be successful you have to learn from people who have been on the path before you. I’m just trying to accelerate that to everybody so they can learn from it.”

Education is clearly not only a huge part of Nick’s work, but also of his belief system. When I briefly heard him speaking at IBS 2017, the information I heard was important enough to completely transform a hairdresser’s business, and I asked for a little more insight into the philosophy behind it: “I think that what we’re doing is trying to systemise everything. Once you systemise something you have a path, you have a game plan – and if people follow the game plan they will succeed. The key to being successful is through education, so you have to have education at the front of your mind.

“I built my company because I never had any money, and I built my brand on a key catchphrase, which was ‘give unconditionally’. If you can try to help somebody by doing something to help them without getting anything back in return, you actually get a lot back in return. But all my business philosophy is really based on practical knowledge. I always say the best hairdresser starts off as being the best sweeper, the best mirror cleaner, the best shampooer, the best comber – and these basic fundamentals have helped

me on my path.”

The Shape of the Industry Before our brief time was up, I wanted to get some opinions on the key trends of 2017 from somebody at the pinnacle of hairdressing, as well as some ideas about the challenges that hairdressers face right now: “Texture’s coming back – at the show a few years ago, everyone had feathers in their hair. A few years before that, everyone was buying hair extensions. A few years before that, everyone was making their hair smooth. What’s coming back now is permanent wave, we’re putting curl back into hair and I’m pioneering that. I know it’s working because last year my American Wave service grew by 100%, and this year it has already grown by 50% on last year. And at this show we have had countless hairdressers sign up to get certified in it. We skipped a generation with the perm, and now it’s time not to bring back the perm but to bring back waving, and we call it American Wave.”

“The biggest challenge that all hairdressing salons have is that there used to be a thing called professional product. Professional product doesn’t exist anymore because of the internet and because of the retailer stores that carry supposedly professional lines. I think salon owners have to rethink where the money comes from. The profit in a salon does not come from service, it really comes from retail. And until we start to focus on that properly, we will still have a low profit business.

When you think about a restaurant, the money is not in the food, it’s in the bar. That’s where restaurants make their living. We need to think of the retail area as the bar, and get hairdressers to understand that if they recommend professional products and engage with their customers then they can raise their revenue and profitability.

The truth of the matter is nobody gets into hairdressing to sell shampoo but if you’re not selling shampoo you’re not gonna have a successful salon.”

Nick has even introduced a retail course at his academy so that hairdressers can learn how to sell well.

There’s a lot of food for thought in Nick’s words, so I’ll leave you to chew them over and think about how you can apply them in your own work. If you’ve found this insightful then it would be great to see you over on YouTube at my Barber.TV channel, or on my Instagram and Facebook pages where you’ll find me as LarrytheBarberMan. I regularly put up new interviews with leading industry professionals like Nick Arrojo, so there are lots of other stories to help you build your own career.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 19

P R O D U C T S Elemis Luxury Travel Bag Designed in collaboration with the award-winning British designer of the moment, Misha Nonoo, this Luxury Travel Bag contains all of Misha’s own favourite products and some must-haves for travelling.

The bag is designed in bold primary colours that exhibit Misha’s sense of fun. £62 – elemis.co.uk

Organic Colour Systems Rep-Hair Follicle Strengthening System This four-step, daily scalp and hair care regime is designed to improve their strength and condition, providing an optimum follicular environment for hair growth. It features a Strengthening Shampoo, Nourishing Conditioner, Scalp Treatment, and Natural Oral Supplement. £125 – organiccoloursystems.co.uk

Elemis Life Elixirs A range designed to quiet your mind, harmonise your inner dynamism, and bring physical and mental wellness.

Energising bitter orange, refreshing cardamom, and warming ginger work together amidst a balancing blend of awakening essential oils to sharpen your concentration.

Elemis.co.uk

OSiS+ Session Label Powder Cloud A super fine, sprayable powder infused with lava rock, creating precise volume instantly without overburdening the hair. It gives root-lift, volume, and a lightweight and flexible texture with a naturally rough finish. The innovative pump function allows ultra-precise direct application and perfect dosage control for a high performance fine powder mist. £17.50 – Schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

L’Oreal Professionnel #ColorfulHair The brand new in-salon semi-permanent colour palette comes in eight bright and brilliant intermixable shades offering thousands of bespoke and personal colourful possibilities. The clear variant will provide the colourist with the opportunity to dial down the intensity of the colour to create the pastel tones that we’ve seen on the AW17 runway this season.

Lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 20 | SalonNV Magazine

label.m Fashion Edition Wax Spray Created for the catwalk, but equally at home in the salon, the Wax Spray starts off as a light foam then dissipates into a transparent, fast-drying, humidity-resistant wax which is far from sticky. Allows for easy remoulding from one look to another while adding texture.

P R OD U C T S

£13.95 – toniandguy.co.uk

Wella Professionals Elements Light Renew Shampoo & Conditioner The renewing conditioner works to strengthen each strand of hair from within whilst maintaining hair´s natural vitality meaning damaged hair is repaired and revitalised with a new lease of life.

Gentle enough to use every day, your tresses will be left soft, smooth and with a shiny, healthy appearance. £74.35 – lookfantastic.co.uk

R+Co Wall Street Strong Hold Gel Take it to the street. This super shine gel gives your hair strong, long lasting hold; no matter if you’re slicking it back like Gekko or pomping it up like Elvis. Good for: Short hair of any type. Can also be used on longer hair to create a wet look. £22.95 – randco.com

Less is More Protein Spray This nourishing and softening spray provides all hair types with sweet smelling hydration. The enriched formula of Wheat Proteins and Aloe Vera is 100% organic and works by nourishing the outside of the hair, strengthening strands externally to prevent breakage. Add this spray to a regular beauty routine to encourage healthy locks to grow. £10.12 – lessismore.at/en/

milk_shake All Over Shampoo A ‘two-in-one’ cleansing and soothing formula for hair and body, ideal after swimming in the sea or pool, or year-round to leave skin soft and protect hair from the lightening and dehydrating effects of the sun. Ideal for dynamic, practical individuals. £14.69 – milkshakehair.co.uk

HairENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 21

Lush Hair Extensions 16” Deluxe DIY Weft Feeling creative? Then these are the hair extension for you. Containing a single 35” wide double weft of hair which can be transformed into your own custom set of hair extensions or even weaved/glued in as a more permanent fixture to your hair.

P R O D U C T S

£69.99 – lushhairextensions.co.uk

Balmain Paris Hair Couture Micro Ring Extensions Layered for perfect blending and imperceptible. Available in a choice of beige, brown and black shades, the small flexible tips of the extensions are fastened with lightweight, undetectable micro rings for ultra-comfort. The cold application method makes the extensions reusable and easy to apply and remove without glue or bonds. £74.25 – balmainhair.com

Remi Cachet Flat Weft Remi Cachet are introducing flat wefts across their range of weft hair extensions. The technology behind the flat weft means that the hair no longer needs to be folded over creating a thinner weft, which when applied, is flat to the head. Other key benefits include non-fraying edges when stylists cut the weft to fit.

Remicachet.com

Beauty Works Metallic Colour Collection Metallic tones combine with futuristic hues of silver and lilac to create stunning pastels and striking silvers that are guaranteed to turn heads. These shades have been created with a diluted permanent colour which provides a long lasting result. beautyworksonline.com

Hair ExtensionsENVY 22 | SalonNV Magazine

Lava Shells Shared Beauty Coconut Oil This virgin coconut oil offers hydration, long-lasting nourishment and protection. It is suitable for even the most sensitive skins and safe to use in pregnancy. The spa on Sir Richard Branson’s Necker Island has already confirmed it will be using Shared Beauty Secrets Pure Coconut Body Oil in its massage treatments.

P R OD U C T S £17.99 - beautyexpress.co.uk

Salon System Just Wax Berrylicious Multiflex Beads Revolutionary, multidirectional wax that makes intimate waxing treatments a breeze. Multiflex encapsulates the hair and will not stick to skin so that it can be removed in almost any direction for ultimate client discretion and comfort with perfect results.

Works at low temperature, ultra pliable. £12.00 - salonsdirect.com

Sienna X Peppermint Gelee Warm Wax A clean smooth gelée warm wax in our gorgeous signature cool pastel blue colour, the high performance Peppermint Gelée formula is designed especially for extra–sensitive skin and is both rosin–free and tea tree–free. Perfect for use on larger treatment areas such as arms and legs. £7.95 – beautyexpress.co.uk

St Tropez Self Tan Express Bronzing Face Sheet Mask Face masks have become the must have treatment over the past year and St Tropez are leading the way with this ground breaking mask that revitalises your complexion with an ultra-hydrating glow that evens out skin tone and develops into a long-lasting golden tan. £15 – sttropeztan.co.uk

Curasano Spraytan Express Recommended by dermatologists and skin specialists as a healthy alternative to sunbed tanning, the rich composition of aloe vera, vitamin E, and ginseng helps to moisturise and nourish the skin. An immediately beautiful bronze tan dries fast without spots and evolves into a natural look. €39.95 – shop.curasano.com

SBC Aloe Vera Skin Care Gel A light textured gel, easily absorbed, non-sticky, water-based gel, relieves sunburn, rashes and bites, great after waxing, cooling therapy for highly sensitised skin conditions e.g. acne. Aloe Vera possesses calming properties, making it an exceptional soothing agent, recommended for use on after epilation treatments. £32.95 – designer-beauty.co.uk

Body, Tanning & WaxingENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 23

Lucia Magnani Rejuvenating Night Cream An extraordinary perfecting night cream. The delicate exfoliating effect, with AHA and BHA, perfects, renews and hydrates facial skin. Its unique formula acts while you sleep helping to eliminate imperfections. The purpose of the ingredients is to regulate the natural microcirculation process to maintain skin radiance and to even out skin tone. £225 – luciamagnani.com

P R O D U C T S Fab Brows Duo Kit Increase your add-on sales with the Fab Brows Duo Kit which, with the help of demonstrations in-salon, is a proven bestseller. Each kit includes two shades of eyebrow powder and a professional applicator brush, all beautifully presented in a unique gold mirrored compact case. £10 + VAT – fabbrows.com

Salon System LashLift Starter Kit Give your clients Instagram worthy lashes thanks to this new treatment. Create beautiful lash looks on their natural lashes by curling from the root, helping to enhance and emphasise the eyes whilst creating the illusion of length and volume that lasts for up to eight weeks. £45 + VAT – lashbase.co.uk

Lime Crime Hi-Lite Opals This new era highlighter bathes shin in sheer glow while adapting to your skin tone with three magical highlighters that will transform skin instantly. Pink, gold, and peach shift highlighters melt seamlessly into your skin and adapt to your complexion. £32.95 – love-makeup.co.uk

NovaLash Platinum Bond The only adhesive on the market to be instantly oil and water-proof, NovaLash’s Platinum Bond has scooped a number of prestigious industry awards for innovation due to its unique and revolutionary properties. Clients can also continue using their favourite oil-based products without affecting the bond of the extensions. £65 + VAT – novalash.com

Skin & Make-upENVY 24 | SalonNV Magazine

Gelish Structure Gel Adding structure to the natural nail has never been so easy thanks to Gelish Structure Gel. Can be used between foundation and Gelish colour for added strength or to encapsulate nail art.

Comes with approximately 60 full set applications per bottle.

PRODUCTS £20.99 – taylormadenails.co.uk

Simply Nourishing Hand Cream Contains moisturising sweet almond and jojoba seed oil to help hydrate the hands, nails and cuticles, and provide immediate calming relief to dry, rough skin.

The rich, silky cream formula is infused with the refreshing and uplifting fragrance of zesty tangerine and sweet passionfruit to enhance any manicure.

£3.39 - beautyexpress.co.uk

Gena Pedi Spa Foot Mask Take a load off with this moisture mask that refreshes and soothes tired achy feet, while nourishing skin. Fresh and energising with the scent of mint and eucalyptus. £16.95 – beautyexpress.co.uk

Morgan Taylor Selfie Collection Grab your girlfriends and perfect that selfie with the brand-new collection from Morgan Taylor.

You’ll be smiling big in those summer selfies with a range of hues that nail the perfect Summer manicure so you can nail the ultimate selfie. £4.95 + VAT – louellabelle.co.uk

Skinfix Hand Repair Cream For many hairdressers, skin conditions like dermatitis can be a real problem – shampooing five clients a day for years isn’t kind on the hands! Now you can relieve extreme dryness immediately on the first application. Soothing botanicals like aloe and calendula extracts work with rich shea butter to help calm redness and itching on contact. £15.99 – skinfixinc.com/uk

Nails, Hands & FeetENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 25

SEYO Transdermal Application An innovative system for intensive deep treatment of the skin. It allows for a controlled and needle-free administration of active substances. TDA is the world’s first dermatological and aesthetic treatment system that non-invasevely transports anti-ageing active substances to the deepest layers of the skin.

P R O D U C T S

SEYO.de

label.m Detangling Paddle Brush The malleable bristles are ideal for quick and gentle detangling while the comfortable ball point tips soothes and massages the scalp. Curved and flexible shape hugs the scalp for comfort and superior styling control. £14.95 – toniandguy.co.uk

Sienna X Digital Single Wax Heater With a container size of 1000cc, this single heater is perfect for busy salons. Simply decant your wax into the inner bucket provided and use the scraper bar to get the perfect amount of wax per application. Keep your machine clean with a quick spritz of Sienna X Equipment Cleaner at the end of each day. £55 – beautyexpress.co.uk

Takara Belmont Epiphany M Collection The beauty of this stunning collection not only lies in the design of the products, but their customisability, giving salon owners the freedom to tailor their furniture selections to truly reflect their salon’s theme or personality. The Faro mirror (pictured) is just one of the possible selections. Check out the Takara Belmont website to see the full collection.

Takarabelmont.co.uk

REM – Natura Pedispa Chair For the ultimate in pedicure spa comfort, the Dream Pedispa is available in over 40 different laminates and fabrics to suit your spa environment. It comes complete with white ceramic foot basin, adjustable footrest and stylish mixer tap. Multiple units can be linked together with the Dream Storage Link and the range is completed with a Dream Pedispa Stool. £1,607 - salonsupplies.co.uk

Furniture & EquipmentENVY 26 | SalonNV Magazine

Bodhi and Birch Facial Oil Rejuvenate skin and renew its youthful radiance with age-refining organic oils of argan, rose, prickly pear and starflower. An ultra-fine facial oil rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants, plus potent vitamins to nourish skin and boost cellular regeneration. Powerful nutrients refine skin surface and structure, diminish age blemishes and work to even out skin tone.

PRODUCTS

£38 – bodhiandbirch.com

Eminence Stone Crop Cleansing Oil This non-greasy cleansing oil uses the potency of microgreens to bring balance back to the skin. To restore moisture and remove impurities, sunflower and jojoba oil have been paired with brightening strone crop to deliver dewy, soft skin after every use. Use alone, or as step one in a two-step cleansing process.

Romilly Wilde Advanced Supercell Serum

£21.53 – theskinsmith.co.uk

Daily shots of this supercharged ‘mother’ energy treatment encourages a glowing, supple, and resilient skin. Elegant yet concentrated, micro-algae and the purest levels of hyaluronic acid deliver immediate hydration at a deep cellular level. The oil rich serum stimulates collagen production, supported by Wild Saffron for a natural glow. £110 – romillywilde.com

Pharmagel Enzyme Ex-Cell A gentle exfoliating facial scrub that contains extracts from the papaya plant. Natural polishing grains from walnuts combine with the revitalizing benefits of papaya enzymes to gently exfoliate and help skin appear refreshed. Use of Enzyme Ex-Cell helps pores appear smaller and helps skin appear brighter and smoother, leaving skin with a radiant glow. £39.99 – beautyexpress.co.uk

Dermaquest Stem Cell 3D Eye Lift Offers instant lifting and firming of the delicate skin around the eye area.Distinctive hydrating ingredients increase moisture retention, while potent peptides promote skin firmness and smoothness reducing puffiness and inflammation, leaving you with a youthful, revitalised appearance. £73 – dermaquestinc.co.uk

Wellbeing & AestheticsENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 27

MODERN

I K ON

Showc a se

Modern ikon

International Creative Director:

Simon Ellis

Essential Looks direction

Nina Schaefer

Schwarzkopf Professional Global Ambassadors :

Lesley Jenison, Tyler Johnston and Richard Ash Forth

Schwarzkopf Professional North American Colour Director: Rossa Jurenas

Hair Assistants

oana Neves, Pierre Saint-Sever & Ivana Oletic

Photography:

Simon Emmett assisted by James Sharpe & Giovanni Mafrici

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 29

GENNOW DIARY PART 4.

Kay Corbett

Stylist at award-winning Medusa Hair Group Kay Corbett, a stylist at award-winning Medusa Hair Group in Edinburgh, is embarking on a year-long whirlwind of learning as part of Wella’s Generation Now team. She’s going to keep us posted about what she gets up to throughout her 12 months

30 | SalonNV Magazine

I learned early on with GenNow that one of the biggest agonies of stage work is keeping the chatter going while concentrating on your creation. The ideal is to explain every step of the cut, colour, or dressing to the audience as it is done, but a particularly testing section can cause even the most experienced performer to clam up.

It’s what we do every day in the salon – gossip away with our clients while churning out elaborate cuts or colour, and think nothing of it. But it feels so different when you are up there in front of an audience.

Our GenNow initiation is over and we are well and truly baptised in the fire. We’ve just done four stage shows, three of them over just two days. I can feel my confidence growing and I’m getting better at the continuous chat, but it is still terrifying. Fortunately, we also have Ainsley Quarmby from Wella to compere and he’s a dab hand at keeping us babbling away, asking us questions and prompting us to clarify what we say.

The experience of delivering on stage has a direct impact on what I do in-salon. I recognise now the importance of telling the client about what I’m doing – in layman’s terms of course – rather than just asking how her new job is going or whether she watches Tattoo Fixers . And I know that, in contrast, up on stage I have to be ready to share the most technical details of my work.

The first show of 2017 was a ticketed Wella Spotlight in the Manchester Studio, and, as always, we had to be ahead of the trends. We showcased Wella’s new ultra-contouring technique, which is less about natural shades and placement, and instead champions brighter, more vibrant shades.

With just two hours’ prep-time, I and GenNow team-mate Shauna removed a band from our model’s hair and then lightened it to the desired shade. We used wefts this time, maybe because our new mentor, previous head of Sebastian Paul Fensome, loves pushing to the limits. There is no point being subtle when you are up on stage as it has to be something the audience are able to see from their seats.

A couple of weeks after that we were down in London performing on the HJ Live main stage in London. We did two shows, one on each day. The size of the stage meant we couldn’t all do hair on stage, so on day one I assisted backstage. GenNow is all about learning how to present to an audience, communicate our thinking, interpret trends and lead the way, but it has also taught us how to work closely and quickly as team. I knew which model I wanted when it was my turn to go on stage, but it’s about negotiating rather than demanding. I requested, and fortunately was given, the blonde model because I knew it would be easier for the audience to see my design of scalp braid and stitching more clearly.

After the second HJ Live, we had to scarper double-quick from east London over to the Wella Studios on the Strand for another Spotlight – again, not leaving much time to prep. It’s more than we’d get at NYFW I guess.

Among all of this, I had to make time away from the salon to shoot my entry for TrendVision. I really enjoyed it, but I did come at it with more information than most first-timers, thanks to the GenNow Boot Camp session. I understood the importance of pulling together a team that would gel well, what to look for in my model, how to produce hair that had movement rather than being static so it would photograph well, and how to make sure the details of the cut and colour were such that the camera would easily pick them up. Most of this probably wouldn’t have occurred to me before the photoshoot seminar we did way back last year.

So after all that, I’m back in the salon, which has been packed due to the Medusa colour sale, giving lots of practice talking about hair while doing hair. @kayccorbett

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 31

Carl’s Column

Carl Bembridge Carl’s Column

Welcome to the regular column from celebrity hairdresser and premier wigmaker Carl Bembridge.

My Best-Kept Secret…

I

n the last six months, there has been a shift in the world of hairdressing. My phone hasn’t stopped ringing with requests – but where they used to be requests for blow-dries, up-dos and editorial work, these days, the majority of requests are for one thing and one thing only: wigs.

What used to be a bit of a taboo in the beauty industry is now hugely popular and openly spoken about: everyone from Beyoncé to Rita Ora has sung the praises of their very own ‘wig wardrobes’! Adele loves hers so much that she’s even given them names, and Kylie Jenner has shared a video tour of her wig collection with her devoted Snapchat followers.

Wigs are big business, and more and more women want in on the action.

It’s easy to see why; in a time where women are short of time, but always under pressure to look their best, wigs are a simple solution to the nightmare ‘bad hair day’. In under a minute, you can transform dull, limp locks or hide that your roots are well overdue a touch-up, and skip out of the front door with swishy, glossy hair that will spark envy on the daily commute. They’re easier to slip on than hair extensions, cause no damage to the hair and can totally switch up your look in a way that no other hair product can achieve.

Bad dye job? Stylist snipped it a little shorter than you were anticipating? Pop on a wig, nobody will ever know. With over 1.1 million #wigs posts on Instagram, it’s clear to see that for the beauty-obsessed among us, wigs are the hottest new things and we aren’t afraid to show them off.

But just how did wigs get so popular? Like most key beauty trends, it can be traced right back to the Egyptians and to the iconic Queen Cleopatra, who was renowned for her sharp, chic black bob – which is widely considered to have been a wig. Moving through time, wigs have gone from the sublime to the ridiculous, growing to huge proportions in size and sparking a trend for seriously high hair, but these days, things are much subtler. A great wig is all about creating the kind of hair that would take hours usually; expensive, luxurious, and glamorous, all in a flash.

I trained in the art of wig making under master wigmaker Tokyo Stylez, who is responsible for all of Kylie Jenner’s incredible faux hair looks, and he’s been quoted as saying

32 | SalonNV Magazine

he’s noticed a huge shift in the way that women speak about wigs in America – these days, women are less likely to keep it secret and think of it as shameful, now they’re happy to share their tips and even whip it off in front of you!

It seems like this shift has travelled across the pond too, with women requesting bespoke wigs every day from my Instagram and website. It feels like these days we’re all less worried about perceived vanity – we all want to look good and there’s no shame in admitting it. It’s the next step on from hair extensions, and now that they’re so commonplace, women are less unsure of talking about wigs too.

For me, wigs are all about creating an instant transformation.

If you’ve always dreamed of candyfloss-pink hair but worried it’s not a good look for the workplace, it can easily be a look that you can rock on a Saturday night with no commitment.

Or if you’ve been wondering about lopping off your locks into a chic little pixie cut, but are scared it won’t suit you, a sleek cropped wig can show you whether your new look works for you. It’s also the ideal way to judge how you will feel if you are planning a substantially different new look.

Trying it on first without any commitment will give you an idea of just how a dramatic new cut or colour will suit your personality and lifestyle.

In any situation, wigs allow you to be the person that you want to be in that moment – whether that’s with crazy coloured hair or just a sophisticated, glossy twist on your everyday look, without the high maintenance. Why spend hours on a complex dye job when a wig can take you there in seconds?

Kylie Jenner has turned wig wearing into an art form. The youngest Jenner changes up her style so often, it’s hard to keep track. Rather than being constrained by a particular hair style, she simply chooses hair to suit her life; it’s no problem switching from hair that works for the Coachella music festival to a sleek glammed-up look for a red-carpet event.

We may not all be living a celebrity lifestyle – or even anything close to it! – but the principle is the same; if you want to change things up quickly and easily, a wig gives you the freedom to do it without spending hours in the salon.

Chloe Ferry

In any situation, wigs allow you to be the person that you want to be in that moment

Katie Price

From limitless style options, to convenience and fun, wigs can also be used to boost confidence if you suffer from thinning hair. For a variety of reasons, ranging from genetics, illness, and medication, both men and women can suffer from hair loss, and choosing to wear a wig can help some sufferers to deal with that situation.

But it’s not as simple as buying a wig off the shelf – a great wig takes time and effort to achieve, if you want to be able to rely on it time and again in the future. Buying off the shelf is no good; hair is often synthetic, meaning it looks cheap and can’t be heat styled – so you’ll be looking at a head of frizzy nylon in no time.

I only use premium human hair from Secret Hair Extensions to make my wigs; their hair is super luxurious and creates a thick, swishy wig that looks incredibly lifelike. By using human hair, you can guarantee a realistic-looking wig that you can do pretty much anything you want to; wigs made from human hair can be cut, coloured, and heat styled in the same way you’d do with your own hair, but you just have to make sure that hair is properly conditioned and hydrated so that it doesn’t dry out and need replacing too soon. I recommend misting the hair regularly with a conditioning spray and using a deeply hydrating masque when you wash the wig.

These days, it’s not about hiding your enhancements and pretending that you just ‘woke up like this’ – it’s about taking ownership of your look and wearing your wig proudly.

Khloe Kardashian www.SalonNV.co.uk | 33

LEARNING FROM YOUR CUSTOMERS How to run a successful survey •Collect demographic details so you know which age groups you are engaging with the most – comparing this to Facebook and Instagram analytics will reveal who is using the various technologies.

•Get feedback by ask open questions, but not too many or the survey becomes over-cumbersome to answer and to review.

•Make sure there is a selection of question types – open, multiple choice, and simple yes/no answers.

•Keep questions simple and positive.

•Offer a prize draw to encourage participation.

C

ommunications have never been more fluid between client and salon than they are now, thanks to social media, but there is one technology salons often overlook when reaching out to their clientele – the client questionnaire. The advent of sites such as Survey Monkey means it’s never been easier to find out what clients think, but for some the hurdle is not how to ask the questions, but rather what questions to ask.

Ronnie Marshall, owner of awardwinning Byron Hairdressing in Kirkcaldy, recently ran a survey, his first in about five years.

‘We often ask questions on our Facebook page and get a good response, but I wanted to do a more conclusive questionnaire that focused on specific areas of the business,’ explained Ronnie.

He opted for one of the many costeffective programmes available online Survey Monkey - asking just 18 questions to keep it short and sweet so clients didn’t get fed up half-way through and abandon the survey. He also offered a £25 in-salon treatment as a prize to entice a greater response. More than 220 clients filled in the survey online. The team also distributed 100 paper versions in-salon to reach those who were not on the mailing list, taking the number of respondents to 320 ‘We got some amazingly positive feedback to the question of how we could improve our service, which was lovely, but it didn’t actually give us anything to work with. Other questions did garner some interesting information, though. Some people thought our website colours made it hard to read while others highlighted how cumbersome it could be on the mobile,’ said Ronnie, whose first step on 34 | SalonNV Magazine

reading the results was to invest in a new, mobile-friendly website. ‘There were also quite a few comments that our rewards programme was too limited timewise and didn’t benefit those who came less frequently than every eight weeks.’

The success of the Byron questionnaire lay in its narrow focus and mix of questions. Even though it had been five years since the last survey, Byron avoided the temptation to delve into every area of the salon and service. The questions also varied between simple yes/no, multiplechoice answers and open questions; and all had a positive spin. The open questions, often the least liked in any survey as they require more than a click, led in one question to more than 50 written responses.

Survey Monkey’s format made the results easy to scan and digest, presented as statistics and as a pie chart, which could then be supplemented with the offline information.

The team did include some demographic research questions to check against its Facebook analytics, and enrich their understanding of the salon client base. But for the most part, the questionnaire was designed to drill down into specifics – the website, the rewards programme, refreshments available and how best to communicate.

But questionnaires can delve into any aspect of salon life and the results can be far-reaching. A focus on retailing and upselling can show weaknesses in delivery by staff, which management can act upon by, for example, ratcheting up education, revisiting the salon script or tweaking commission levels. Surveys can also reveal clients’ preferences and areas of concern, allowing the team to make changes and improve.

But the client questionnaire isn’t just for the salon’s benefit. Most clients welcome

an opportunity to converse with the salon, and even if they don’t get round to completing a survey, many will be impressed that their salon is eager to listen to them, especially if the salon is open in its blogs and social media posts, showing how it has responded to feedback. It’s a win/win situation, opening up client communication while capturing valuable data to build the business.

BusinessNV

Emil Mcmahon

MR haircare

Th e ch a ngi ng face of r eta i l

L

et’s be honest, it’s never been a favourite element of (most) hairdressers’ daily life. Creativity is what we are all about, and retail, well it just isn’t seen as a creative or exciting thing to do. The boss might put on a promotion and suddenly everyone SELLS like crazy, but those sales are only ever a short term spike in salon takings and, invariably, the clients who buy feel pressured into doing it and won’t really enjoy the experience of the product because of that fact.

Recently I have been sharing something I call ‘the rule of 8’ with hairdressers and salon owners. The basic concept is; most of us will have at least 8 different items we use on our hair. A shampoo, conditioner, comb, styling product, brush, dryer, heat protector and irons or curling tools. That’s (at least) 8 opportunities for hairdressers to help clients get the very best from their hairstyle at home.

Most clients when they open up their bathroom cabinet see shelves crammed with unwanted and unsuccessful products that have been bought on a whim. Surely it would be better for clients to have only the products their hairdresser recommended to use on their hair at home?

When I discuss this when hosting training sessions every hairdresser is in agreement with the fact that they should be offering advice and helping their clients understand products and equipment better.

Yet still they shy away from the recommendations that would make their clients life easier at home. So what’s the answer, what might make retailing

feel creative? My advice is simple, ditch the SELL and introduce the TELL, make talking about product like a story. Instead of trying to talk about everything in an initial consultation, break down the product elements of your time with the client into ‘chapters’ that they can respond to with ease. This makes the challenge of retailing easier as the information about product and equipment flows naturally as and when it is relevant throughout the duration of the client visit. Think shampoo and conditioner first, then after some lighthearted chat (very important by the way) you might talk about the comb you are using and why! Using this technique helps clients engage with you about everything you might use on their hair whilst in the salon.

Alongside this it’s very beneficial to use third party references, “my client who used this said…”

Adding simple statements to product recommendations makes your client accept the information more wholeheartedly and also makes retailing a more enjoyable, dare I say, creative experience for hairdressers.

My advice is simple, ditch the SELL, introduce the TELL, make talking about product like a story.

Think about how you retail, do you constantly try to sell, or do you actively talk to your clients about what you are using and why it would be beneficial for them to do the same at home?

Retail is never going to be as creative as a haircut or a fabulous colour technique, but it can be absolutely creative in its own right.

Emil McMahon offers social media consultancy and bespoke training in salons. Check out the updated website www.emilthecaretaker.com or contact Emil on 07885985843

Emil McMahon offers training on all aspects of customer interaction and social media.

For more details visit www.emilthecaretaker.com or email emil_mcm@hotmail.com www.SalonNV.co.uk | 35

Profoundly Improved Dr. Darren McKeown The popularity of face lifts doesn’t seem to be decreasing - you can’t walk down the high street without bumping into a celebrity who’s had one! But now everyone from your nan to your nanny is also getting in on the act. However, with some quite serious surgery and a hospital visit required, not to mention a hefty price tag, more and more people are looking for alternatives.

Fortunately, Scottish aesthetic specialist Dr Darren McKeown is leading the way with a pioneering treatment he has introduced to the UK market from the USA. Exclusive to his Glasgow clinic, Profound is clinically proven to stimulate the production of elastin, collagen, and hyaluronic acid, reducing the signs of ageing and keeping your skin smooth and elastic.

Dubbed the ‘weekend facelift’ due to its quick recovery time, you won’t spend days laid up in a hospital bed as it’s completely nonsurgical, yet offers amazing results.

While the general concept behind Profound, tightening skin by heating collagen, isn’t new, their scientists have discovered that optimal skin contraction occurs when the deeper layers of the skin are heated to exactly 67 degrees centigrade for precisely three seconds.

This leads to much more predictable results and thanks to inbuilt thermometers Profound can reduce the appearance of double chins, treat sagging jowls, and tighten loose skin from under the neck.

Dr Darren said: “Starting in our 30s, the elastin and collagen in our skin starts to diminish, eventually resulting in the appearance of sagging skin.

“Profound is a relatively quick, single treatment which improves elasticity and provides results that have been significantly better than any similar technology I have tried in the past. The full procedure from start to finish takes around one hour and is performed within the comfort

of the clinic.

“We use local anesthetic to make the treatment itself painless, while the system delivers precise temperatures to the deeper skin layers through radiofrequency energy which ultimately lifts and tightens the skin.”

Promoting the natural production of new elastin and collagen and other components of healthy skin over time, most patients report seeing improvement six to eight weeks post treatment.

Following the treatment, most patients can expect to return to normal activities 24 - 48 hours later.

Any minor redness, swelling or bruising resulting from treatment can typically be covered with makeup within 24-48 hours. There can be subtle, on-going swelling for up to two weeks after the treatment, however most people are back to their usual activities much sooner than this.

A leading figure in the field of facial aesthetics, Dr Darren McKeown’s reputation as one of the UK’s most experienced practitioners in minimally invasive technology has grown from strength to strength.

Having practiced aesthetic medicine for more than 10 years, Dr Darren McKeown was impressed by the results of Profound.

He added: “This is an exciting breakthrough in the non-surgical treatment of sagging skin and skintightening. Profound is a treatment that is experiencing very good results – results I’m looking forward to sharing with Scotland and the UK.” “We are the first clinic in the UK to offer the treatment and are thoroughly looking forward to seeing the positive results in our patients – Profound truly is the most effective form of skin tightening I have seen without going under the knife.”

So if you’re looking to get fantastic results for just £2,500, you can call the Dr Darren McKeown clinic on 0800 011 2729

Patient Testimonials “The procedure was very good as compared to some of the other procedures that I have had it was relatively painless.

Following the procedure I now see no jowls whatsoever. I see a softening of what I call ‘tiger stripes’ and a lessening of the folds around my mouth. It’s one of the best procedures I have ever done.”

R.Y. United States “My skin is definitely tighter. I had a real laxity problem and I had been through all kinds of treatments. I was so concerned about it, that I had considered having a facelift, but this procedure completely obviated that need.”

J.N. United States

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Before

After

Whether you’re opening the doors to your salon for the very first time, or giving your existing space a much needed refurbish, there’s always a vision behind how you want your salon to look. Finding high-quality salon equipment and furniture that fits your salon’s theme or personality can sometimes be difficult with lengthy lead times and customisable options starting and finishing with the colour of the upholstery. With a reputation of creating some of the most iconic salon furniture and equipment for over 95 years, Takara Belmont recently revealed their latest collection, Epiphany M, which offers a truly tailor-made experience for salon owners.

SalonNV sits down with Takara Belmont’s Marketing Executive, Cari-Anne Rawlinson, to discuss the new collection and how it can benefit the salon owner.

Made in Spain, the collection features over ten furniture and equipment pieces, from styling chairs to backwash systems and reception desks and styling station solutions, delivering a luxurious but affordably priced range that provides outstanding performance and durability that withstands the hustle and bustle of daily salon life. “When choosing your salon interior and equipment, you should make an investment in the best quality materials and products on the market. Whilst Epiphany M offers affordability to the salon owner, it still upholds the quality we are known for,” says Cari-Anne.

The beauty of the collection lies in the customisability, giving salon owners the freedom to tailor their furniture selections to truly reflect their

salons vibe. Everything from the upholstery, body, basin and surface finishes can be personalised to create a unique look, bespoke to your salon space. “Working closely with salons every day, we recognise how important it is to create a distinct look in salon and the customisability of the Epiphany M collection really allows the salon owner to adapt the furniture to fit the salons personality.

From different laminate colour options and integrated LED lighting across the Luxe Furniture Systems, to choosing premium upholstery for added client comfort and luxury on the Luxe Chairs, Epiphany M really gives you the power to create exactly what you want for your salon.”

Once salon owners have selected from the available customisable options, the products are then hand finished and beautifully packed within four weeks from the time orders are placed, helping salon owners to meet tight salon opening or refurbish deadlines, without the delay that longer lead times can cause. “Lead times are an extremely important consideration for salon owners needing to make deadlines, but they shouldn’t let this compromise the quality of the equipment they invest in. Epiphany M takes away that added stress with a quick lead time, whilst delivering the same quality that salon owners have come to expect from a Takara Belmont product.”

Discover the collection today at www.takarahairdressing.co.uk or for more information, call Takara Belmont on 020 7515 0333 or email hairdressing@takara.co.uk

TA ILOR- MADE F URNITURE

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energy h a ir, devon Top Devon Salon, Energy Hair celebrates five years at its exclusive location at Darts Farm near Topsham, by undergoing a substantial makeover. Owner, Nathan Plumridge has invested over £100,000 into the redesign, giving the salon a fresh, luxurious new look.

the new look.” Nathan explains.

Energy Hair continues to go from strength to strength having last year celebrated 18 years as a company, which also coincided with their busiest year of trading. This was marked with a big summer bash, one of several client events held throughout the year. A forum, which allowed loyal customers to provide vital feedback on the salon also took place, much of which formed the foundations of the salon redesign.

The redesign has transformed the salon into a crisp, bright and airy space and the removal of internal walls has created more room for additional team members.

Finished using neutral tones, it is both welcoming and easy to relax in. There are new, sleek chairs positioned in front of every mirror and a cleverly designed lighting system, which compliments the natural light that floods through the windows.

“Over the years we have built a loyal following of clients so it’s incredibly important that the space they step into, is somewhere they feel they can relax and unwind.

That’s why I went to my clients to find out what they wanted to see from the re-design and I used this to form the basis. I am absolutely delighted with the result and I can’t wait to receive further feedback on

With a big demand for barbers in the area, Energy Hair have not only completely revamped the salon but they have also tripled the number of barbers working for them, making a name for itself not just among women but with men too.

Set within Darts Farm, it is ideally situated at the heart of this lifestyle shopping experience, which features a compilation of carefully handpicked specialist retailers, such as AGA, Fired Earth and Cotswold Outdoor as well as small independent boutiques such as The Orange Tree and The Treatment Loft spa all under one roof.

Da r t s Fa r m Vill age, D evon, E X 3 0 QH 38 | SalonNV Magazine

K est in h a r e, edinburgh Kestin Hare, Scottish Fashion Retailer of the Year, has opened a new unique flagship store for his menswear brand in Leith, Edinburgh.

Leith is a destination location, situated down by the Shore in Edinburgh’s historic docks. The store occupies a Grade A listed Town House built in 1812 (behind Custom House) and is spread over two floors, directly facing onto the water on Custom Wharf at the shore. Hare’s new spot is in the centre of a highly creative area of Edinburgh, filled with Michelin star restaurants but very little retail, and will offer more than just your regular shopping experience.

The interior of the store has been carefully curated to reflect the nuances of the local nautical culture with a 1960s speedboat for the downstairs changing room, and yachting rope is used to suspend paddles for hanging fixtures.

Hare’s passion for supporting Scottish creatives will see his menswear apparel sitting alongside a select edit of Made in Scotland brands including

sunglasses, stationary, homewares, confectionary, and grooming.

Hare says: “At the front of my mind has been to create something that gives customers a real reason to come to my physical store. We want to involve the community, to tell a story and inspire. I want to build an experience where someone feels like they want to come, relax, feel at home and live the Kestin Hare lifestyle. We will have an onsite barber and the store will also house a florist with a focus on selling seasonal Scottish plants and flowers. There is definitely a local customer in Leith for us, and Edinburgh also benefits from a buoyant tourism industry. We will have a unique offer, housing the very best selection of Scottish design, which has been a lifelong dream of mine” The store backs on to Leith coffee roasters Williams & Johnson café and fronts Custom Lane, a collaborative centre for design and making. Custom Lane comprises of a gallery, event space, workshop and studios where Hare is now housing his design studio.

Cu stom s W h a r f, Ed i nbu rgh E H6 6PL www.SalonNV.co.uk | 38

Rush h a ir, LONDON Rush Hair is set to turn heads in Balham with the launch of its new salon, bringing a team of expert stylists to the neighbourhood.

The award-winning hairdressing group opened its 88th luxury salon on Balham High Road on Saturday 22nd April.

As well as being highly skilled in cutting and colouring, the team is also fully trained in specialist services, like the Brazilian Blow Dry and Hair Extensions.

Rush Hair is an industry leader and one of the fastest growing hair brands around. In 2017 three new salons have already opened in Wimbledon Village, Crystal Palace, and Enfield, with more locations set to follow in the coming months across the UK. Stell Andrew, Co-Founder of Rush Hair, can’t believe how much the brand has developed over the last 20 years.

He said: “We could never have imagined how successful Rush Hair would become when we opened the doors of our first salon back in 1994.

It has been a fantastic start to this

year with three new salons already opening and now Balham is set to launch very soon.

“I think the key to our growth is the continued focus we place on offering our customers great service. We want to ensure they leave all our salons feeling as good as they look.”

Opening hours at the new salon in Balham have been designed to fit around clients’ busy lifestyles, with appointments available on Sundays between 10am and 6pm and until 9pm Monday to Friday.

Rush stylists are regulars at events like London Fashion Week and the Balham team will be on hand to offer everything from tips on the latest trends to advice on its range of blended bespoke treatments, while customers sit back and relax.

With new salon special offer prices available, there’s never been a better time to try out Rush.

Book online at: rush.co.uk/salons/balham Book by phone on: 020 3474 5042.

15 4 B al h a m H igh Road, London, S W12 9BN

q h a ir a nd beau t y, midhurst It was champagne and congratulations all round when Q Hair and Beauty celebrated the launch of its new salon in the beautiful town of Midhurst in West Sussex.

For several years directors Anthony Barnes-Smith and Dawn Lawrence of Chichester’s premier salon, were thinking about branching out and replicating Q’s unique and enormously popular ethos in a nearby town.

When Anthony and Dawn began looking around for a suitable location, they both fell in love with Midhurst and set about finding the right premises. The answer came in the shape of the elegant building on the corner of West Street and work on fitting it out in stunning style began last December.

The building has been given a top-to-toe makeover, including any existing interesting features but skilfully blending the old with the new to create a state-of-the-art hair and beauty salon as impressive as its Chichester counterpart. The impressive transformation reflects the Q philosophy of making the

most of the latest green technology while recycling original materials and features where possible and retaining the original character of the premises, which are part of Lord Cowdray’s estate.

“We look on all our clients in Chichester as our guests and we have replicated that friendly but highly-professional atmosphere in Midhurst,” says Dawn.

The salon on West Street has been adapted to incorporate a ladies’ salon with eight work positions for stylists at the front, a barber’s area with four to six work stations and a beauty room at the back.

“Basically we have gutted the premises and started again, but keeping features like the old chimney breast, Yorkstone thresholds and original flooring” says Dawn. “As soon as we walked into the building we could see its potential and knew it was right for us.

“Both Anthony and I love Midhurst – it has a real community feel and we want to join that community.”

7 West St, M id hu r st GU29 9NQ www.SalonNV.co.uk | 39

Showc a se

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chill

Hair: Robert Kirby

Photography: Benjamin Johnson

Make-up: Daiva Kazlauskaite Styling: Elisa Heinesen

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TOWIE When the team of BAFTA awardwinning ITV series The Only Way Is Essex need to look their best, who do they turn to? The Matthew Curtis Creative Team of course.

To get them ready for the launch of their 20th series, the creative team tended to the tresses of the entire cast with stylists Alice Trout and SalonNV columnist Carl Bembridge styling Chloe Sims, Chloe Lewis, Georgia Kousoulou, Amber Turner, Courtney Green, Mel McKenna, Chloe Meadows, and Kate Wright.

Alice said: “We’re really proud of our continued creative involvement with The Only Way is Essex and we thoroughly enjoyed creating this latest range of looks. The TOWIE cast are renowned for their glamorous style and aren’t afraid to experiment with new trends, so to be the stylists of choice for such discerning clientele is a real honour.”

Images: Lime Pictures

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A PPRENTICE V S . . .

W

hat attracted you to an apprenticeship in hairdressing?

I loved the idea of learning on job. I am an extremely artistic and creative person and love working with people. There are so many opportunities as a career (salon stylist, educator, salon owner, fashion/editorial work) and an apprenticeship helps you decide where you fit in.

Did your school encourage you in this career choice?

Yes, I had a salon in school where basic training in hairdressing was offered as a subject which was a great platform for me into the beginning of my hairdressing career. I also had a great art department which offered encouragement in any artistic or creative career you wished to pursue.

Could schools do more to promote hairdressing as a career choice?

Yes definitely! I feel sometimes emphasis is on exam results – all about percentages and grades on a page but they should focus more on what individuals are interested in and give more encouragement and help to explore options for careers in the creative industry.

What were the most positive aspects of your apprenticeship?

Apprentice - Misha McLean

Misha McLean, Assistant at Rainbow Room International Uddingston and current BHBA Junior of the Year

46 | SalonNV Magazine

On the job training with real experiences and real clients, a sense of responsibility. I love being surrounded by talented, successful people who are passionate about what they do – they are inspiring, and they make me want to achieve similar success. It is a real privilege to work with and be trained by the best, including Suzie McGill and Dylan Brittain, current Scottish Hairdressers of the Year. I like being exposed to inner workings of the hairdressing industry and have so many more opportunities to get involved with like photo shoots, hair shows, and seminars. It is always a great feeling knowing that by doing job well you can make someone feel good about themselves.

What were the biggest challenges?

Overcoming frustration when not getting things perfect at the first attempt. Learning it’s ok to make mistakes in which by being surrounded by stylists help you learn and correct your mistakes. I started off as quiet person and feel that this apprenticeship has helped my confidence grow, and have grown in all areas of my life, not just my career.

How did you make the most of your apprenticeship?

By taking every opportunity thrown at me and to not be afraid of making mistakes. I wanted to get involved as much as possible whether that was with the Art Team, assisting on courses & seminars, or assistant shows - every experience is valuable to me. I always asked for help when needed – it’s the only way you’ll improve as an emerging stylist and by taking creative risks and trying new styles pushing my boundaries.

What should an apprentice be getting out of their apprenticeship – if someone isn’t happy what would you advise them to do?

Top quality training and skills that will benefit throughout working life with qualifications fundamental start to a career. You should gain independence – life skills, knowledge of how the working world works. If someone is not happy I would suggest speaking to a manager, always in a respectful way and take potential solutions on board – always be professional!

What advice would you offer to a salon owner on how to make sure they keep their apprentices motivated and stay on as a long-term member of staff?

Show the assistants how fun and rewarding hairdressing can be as a career and a sense of achievement. Get assistants involved and give them a chance to be creative like assistant shows, photo shoots, and watching seminars.

Use a variety of training methods for instance; different courses, videos, live models and sally heads. Always have fun with team and to make the assistants feel part of the team and give them some sort of responsibility.

. . . S A LON O W NER

W

hat do you look for from an apprentice?

I look for someone to have real passion for this amazing industry, a passion for fashion and art and desire to work for our company. A genuine interest, positive attitude, and enthusiasm needs to shine through to work for us. With our education programme we can train most people to be a fantastic hairdresser but it’s difficult to train attitude.

How do you find good apprentices?

We ask all potential apprentices to do a project on ‘100 years of Hairdressing’ this entails all the eras of hair and iconic hairdressers past and present who inspire them. We feel this is really important part of the interviewing process, it allows them to see how it all started and how it has evolved, giving them a real insight into our industry.

Over the years we’ve had some outstanding portfolios and this, to me, makes them stand out from the crowd, you then know who genuinely wants a career in hairdressing.

Salon Owner - Yasmin McMail CO-Owner and Director of Rainbow Room International George Square Salon

Has finding good apprentices become harder-if so, why do you think this is and what impact has this had on your business?

A couple of years ago we hit a dry spell and decided we had to change our way of enticing people to come to join us. We contacted all schools and since then we’ve built up brilliant relationships allowing us to go to them when they are holding a Careers Day. We send a team of people along, making sure we also have an apprentice with us as they will be of similar age to seem less intimidating and make it easier to be approached.

What do you think can be done by the Government or the education system to make finding apprentices easier?

I feel that the education system have to do more to present the industry in a good light.

There is still this stigma attached to our chosen career, ‘if you’re not very academic try hairdressing’ is not a very good attitude for schools to have. A lot of skills are required for our craft and we have to promote that, it’s up to us to get out there and tell the students about it! I also like to talk to head teachers and guidance teachers as they are the ones that are influencing the students into their chosen career, you can see students faces light up when you tell them about your job and the industry, how fun it is and also potentially how much money is there is to be made Could the industry do more to promote hairdressing?

We can always be doing more to promote hairdressing. I would say our biggest tool nowadays is social media. Spending money on TV is beneficial, when we filmed our Rainbow Room International ‘Do or Dye’ TV series with the BBC we saw a huge influx of interest into apprenticeships, more hair programmes need to be produced to really show the public how serious and professional our jobs are, instead of being portrayed as an easy job and way out for young students.

Kain Lawrence Q Hair and Beauty, Chichester & Midhurst Apprenticeships – the best way to take advantage of apprenticeships to benefit your salon, and get the best from your apprentices.

We refer to them as Future Professionals as they are our future, our next generation.

Apprenticeships have been the roots of our salon for many years; starting from just 14 we offer an after school club from 4pm-6pm every Wednesday. A double decade tradition that has allowed young people the opportunity to dip their toes into our amazing industry, which of course is an instant addiction! Where else can you have fun, make people happy and work with over 40 team members that are genuinely your friends?

Once school leaving age arrives for our ever eager Tigers we offer every single one a fulltime apprenticeship, no quibbles or questions.

We are looking to help young people build a career, whether that be with us or even their own salon in the future. Over 20 previous employees over a 40 year period have gone on to open their own salons. An 18 month plan to not only achieve their NVQ Level 2, with Level 3 as an optional extra, but also pass our Graduate Stylist Test meaning they have reached our Q standard, ready to WOW full paying guests.

The amount of training that we provide really sets us apart from the ‘norm’ with our future professionals. They receive two full days of training every week, one of those days is with our NVQ training provider, the other is with us in the salon. We have two assessor trainer educators which cover both salons allowing us to offer apprenticeships from all locations. We also offer training outside of the salon, which we are proud to say is £2,000 per person, per year to make sure from the very start our future stylists are trained to the absolute highest level.

What could be better than growing your own team, your way, with your culture and values?

No recruitment cost, no retraining, and no time spent with interviews and paperwork.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 47

Create The Look Lance Breakwell from Wolverhampton has beaten hopefuls from across the UK to be crowned the nation’s top up-and-coming stylist.

The return of Create the Look, hosted by business insurance provider SME Insurance Services (SMEi), called on budding hair stylists, make-up artists, beauticians, and nail technicians from across the UK to showcase their most inspired creations, highlighting the nation’s new emerging talent.

Lance Breakwell, 23, a trainee make-up artist at the MAKUP Academy for Film and Media Make-up, impressed the judges and received the most votes for his submissions, taking the Create the Look crown.

He said: “Before I started my make-up course I was set on going into SFX make up. I had never used eye shadow before or even attempted any beauty or contemporary looks, but during the 16 weeks at the MAKUP Academy, studying under Veronica McAleer, I learned so many new skills that I’m continuing to develop.

“Explosions of colour inspired this look, twisted together with a dark sultry edge. I wanted to create a full work of art, from the hair and makeup to the dress, which I also created myself. I wanted to show being a make-up artist isn’t just about pretty eye shadows and highlight it’s an art form.”

Commenting on the winner, judge Jodie Withers said: “Lance has truly produced a show-stopping image – something that you could easily imagine in the windows of MAC Cosmetics. Avant-garde is not an easy style to create, but Lance has clearly shown a high level of creativity and artistic expression in his work. The colours used are beautiful and it allows the image to jump at you and grab your attention.”

Judge Emily Hunter stated: “The colours used in Lance’s entry are truly beautiful and work well together to create an outstanding entry. The hair and make-up complement each other beautifully and his technical ability is evident in his entry, which wouldn’t look out of place in the pages of an established magazine.”

Third judge Katherine Louise also added: “I’m a great believer in everyone wearing colour, especially in make-up, and Lance’s entry uses a mixture of colour and dark to create some beautiful, dramatic make-up which could definitely be interpreted for daily wear.”

In addition to being crowned the UK’s best up-and-coming stylist, Lance Breakwell will receive a professional hair and beauty kit packed with an excellent range of the latest products and treatments. Eric Jones and Amber Coates will also each receive a luxury hamper packed full of the latest hair and beauty products and equipment.

Lance has aspirations of utilising his creative passion on a daily basis and become a full-time make-up designer: “To be able to have the opportunity to do something I love has to be the ultimate dream, and I’m on the road to making that dream a reality!”

SMEi also announced two runners-up in the competition; Eric Joey Jones, 17, a hairdressing student at Hugh Baird Liverpool College, from Southport, with make-up by fellow student Bethany Sanders; and Amber Coates, 18, a beauty therapy student at Suffolk One College, from Ipswich, were placed as second and third place respectively.

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Sharon cameron

advanced beauty therapist Glasgow based Advanced Beauty Therapist specialising in skincare treatments, lipofirm pro, brows & lashes. HD Brows Elite Stylist & Dermalogica Expert.

Combining experience with innovation, Sharon Cameron has led the way in bespoke beauty treatments for over two decades. Always at the forefront of the latest technological advances, her clients swear by her results-driven process that provides instant improvement and personal enhancement.

machine to lift, get the radio frequency into the skin and lift and tighten. I’ll completely bespoke it to what the client is looking for.

“I have a proper consultation with all my clients, see what their concerns are and what their skin’s needs are. Because sometimes despite what their concerns are they might not know that their skin is dehydrated for example. I have clients that come in week in, week out, but don’t have the same treatment every week. It’s completely bespoke for what their skin is needing at the particular time they are on the bed.”

Formerly the salon director of the Fake Bake Hair and Beauty Boutique in Glasgow’s West Regent Street, Sharon now runs her own clinic from the same building, where she continues to pave the way for bringing the hottest must-have treatments north of the border.

Exclusive to Glasgow, Sharon’s latest toy is the Lipofirm Pro – an award-winning triple action fat reduction machine that combines several technologies, Radio Frequency, TriPollar, and Dynamic Muscle Activation, which work simultaneously through a single applicator to deliver non-surgical bum-lifts, non-invasive fat removal and lymphatic drainage, as well as skin tightening.

For Sharon, bringing in Lipofirm Pro was a no-brainer in response to customer demand. She says: “My clients were asking for treatments for cellulite and so I started researching to see what was out there. I looked at things like liposuction and the effects, how effective different machines were, and this one just kept coming up. I followed Shane Cooper who uses it with Katie Price and other celebrities and his results are just incredible.”

Since bringing it in, Sharon has been in awe of the versatility and results that Lipofirm Pro provides.

“I’ve only had the machine a couple of months now but it amazes me each time I do a treatment. It’s a big draw and it treats various things from cellulite, fat reduction, inch-loss, muscle contouring, you can do a non-surgical bum lift.

“For some people no matter how much clean eating they do, there’s always one wee area that needs spot reduction. Sometimes it can be cellulite in the thighs, sometimes it’s the tummy, sometimes they want the bum…

“You can treat pretty much everywhere on the body but you can also treat the face with it. The face is slightly different – it reduces fine lines and wrinkles and tightens the skin but the results are so good.”

It’s certainly proven to be popular with Sharon’s clientele, with many of them coming back to get more than one area treated because they are so happy with the results – and it’s that which motivates Sharon as well.

She explains: “Everything I do is results driven. I’m not one to do treatments and your client has had 10 treatments and they’re maybe beginning to notice a little bit of difference. I want their skin, or whatever I’m treating, to get better each time so they’re seeing a massive difference themselves.”

Sharon describes herself as a “machine and product combination type of girl” and the Lipofirm Pro isn’t the first time she’s been at the cutting edge of technology. When she started over 20 years ago, Sharon was among the first to introduce Microdermabrasion to Glasgow and a couple of years after that she started using Crystal Clear Oxygen Therapy, with both remaining vital parts of her treatment menu ever since.

But while the latest technology always plays a key role in Sharon’s offerings, she finds the best results when combining it with her roles as both a Dermalogica Expert and HD Brows Elite Stylist, offering her clients the full package from eyebrows to skin treatments.

“It depends what the client is looking for,” says Sharon, stressing the importance of personalised treatments. “For example, if someone is wanting their skin lifted, I’ll do a professional strength exfoliation so they have lovely glowing skin and I’m getting everything underneath the skin and then I’ll use a

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As Sharon says, the importance of proper client consultation cannot be underestimated. “Without it they wouldn’t get the results they want. If I didn’t do a consultation and bespoke the treatment then there can be numerous things, like illness, stress, or medication they are on that can affect the result.

“I’m not the type of therapist who just goes along with the manual and does step A, B, C, and D. That’s not what I’m about. I’m about totally customising it so that client’s going to get the best out of their treatment when they’re in.”

You only need to take one look at the innumerable positive comments on the Sharon Cameron Advanced Therapist Facebook page to see her clients are extremely grateful for the hard work and effort that Sharon puts in to each and every one of them lets her know that “all my hard work pays off.”

Seeing the effect she has on their life helps to motivate Sharon to keep improving. “Sometimes I think you can get stuck in a little bubble and stick to what you know, but to be a better therapist you’re always learning. Even though sometimes with the Dermalogica courses I’ve done them maybe two to three times each you will still learn something new when you go back. I just love learning!”

With absolutely no advertising other than simply showcasing the results of her work online, Sharon has established a large clientele base and kept herself busy six-days a week – truly proving you can let your work speak for itself.

As Sharon says: “The best form of advertising is a client’s recommendation.”

Visit Sharon at 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow or call 07941 025840.

Instant results just after one treatment

vamp up your face Vampire facial. The name doesn’t sound too appealing but thankfully there’s no bloodsucking or mythical demons of the night involved, instead it involves using the plasma in your own blood to help rejuvenate your face.

A celebrity favourite, with the likes of Bar Refaeli, Kim Kardashian, and Towie star Ferne McCann all swearing by it, it promises to improve the texture and elasticity of your face while improving the appearance of wrinkles and scars.

Vampire facial. The name doesn’t sound too appealing but thankfully there’s no bloodsucking or mythical demons of the night involved, instead it involves using the plasma in your own blood to help rejuvenate your face.

A celebrity favourite, with the likes of Bar Refaeli, Kim Kardashian, and Towie star Ferne McCann all swearing by it, it promises to improve the texture and elasticity of your face while improving the appearance of wrinkles and scars.

But how?

Officially the treatment is known as the Sculpt Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) facial. Well, plasma is packed full of platelets which are in turn packed full of growth factors which stimulate the healing of soft tissue, leaving your skin looking its youthful, glowing best.

While it’s taken off over in America, its popularity in the UK is still criminally small, but now that Epibrow have gotten in on the act, we expect to see a massive boost in its uptake. Using their unique micro roller system to re-inject the PRP into the client’s face, it results in a vigorous boost to your skin’s natural defences and leaves you looking younger and healthier than you have in years.

Already one of the UK’s leading brow and

beauty training companies, this expansion to their treatment repertoire should lead to exciting times for the brand who have also added Scuply MET (Manual Exfoliation Technique) to their menu – a dermaplanning treatment which aims to resurface and invigorate the skin, removing dead skin cells from the epidermis and also the fine vellus hairs.

Now known as Epibrow International Academy, it’s their first step into the facial and aesthetic market but with the expertise and industry credentials that founder Louise Bannigan and her team bring to the table, we can’t see it being anything but a success.

SalonNV Editor Joanne Reid was invited to test out the Sculpt PRP treatment and was full of nothing but compliments, saying everyone had been commenting on how her skin had never looked so good in the month since she had the painless procedure.

It’s exciting times for Epibrow who have also announced their partnership with the National Hair Loss Association. Based in Arizona, USA, and run by hair loss expert Carly Klein, the National Hair loss Association has been revolutionising the treatment and reversal of hair loss for many years. This new partnership will see Epibrow bring these life changing techniques and treatments to the UK for the first time.

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Teenage An Jason Ha

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Hair:

ma Ellis ll as sis ted by Em

Photography:

Lee Howell

Make- up:

Kelly Cripps

Models:

Colour s Agency

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The Hairdressers’ Charity

Photography: Jack Eames Art Direction: Darren Ambrose Hair: Suzie McGill, Dylan Britain, and Diana Carson, International Artistic Team for The Hairdressers’ Charity Rainbow Room Make-up: Kelly Sadler Styling: Bernard Connolly

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red spirit

Hair: Bernard Brassard @ Tonique BeautĂŠ Spa Photography: Weronika Kosinska Make-up: Izabela Szelagowska

Stylism: Marcin Kulak Production: MK Production & Christophe Gaillet 56 | SalonNV Magazine

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Editor’s Comment The male grooming industry seems to be growing exponentially every year and that means an abundance of products for barbers to choose from. This has both its benefits and its downsides as how can you tell the good products from the wastes of space? Of course, every barber will like something that another barber hates so it’s hard to be certain, but here’s some of our top picks at the moment and hopefully this will give you some inspiration to try something different.

Montibello Decode Texture Men The Spanish brand have unveiled a brand new styling collection which has been carefully formulated to give creative stylists complete freedom of expression. Whether you’re going for a sleek and trendy look, or something more avant garde and creative, you won’t be let down. The Texture Men range contains an extra-strong fixing gel, long-lasting wet effect styling gel, texturising effect matt finish wax, high shine pomade, and matt finish moulding paste.

Montibello.com

Razor MD iGrip Chrome DE For fans of the double-edge safety razor, this is comfortable to hold thanks to its handmade, laser-engraved handle, while the innovative blade provides a smooth shave that’s gentle on skin. From New York based brand Razor MD who have been in the game for four generations, it has the build quality to last you just as long. $89 – razormd.com

The Bluebeards Revenge Talc for Men A versatile product that will keep your clients feeling fresh after a haircut or wet shave, whether you’re using it reduce the irritation they can often experience due to cut hair on the collar line or hiding nicks and blemishes. The signature Bluebeards scent ensures customers leave smelling masculine, while they say the addition of some maca oil can improve your libido! We’ll have some of that. £9.99 – bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

Baxter of California Clay Pomade A company with over half a century of experience in male grooming, Baxter of California have a comprehensive range of products tailored to guys’ needs. When it comes to hair, nothing beats their award-winning, customer favourite styling Clay Pomade. Separates, defines, and moulds hair in place to deliver a strong, pliable hold all day. Infused with natural ingredients such as clay and beesway, the texturising, paraben-free formula works for any style. £20 – mankind.co.uk

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Barbershop Beard Original Scent Beard Oil Manchester based Barbershop Beard specialise in beard care products and attire for the modern gentleman.

Blended in their hometown, using all natural produce and the finest essential oils, your beard will have a woodsy yet musky aroma while still smelling fresh and hygienic like an old school barber shop. £17.99 – barbershopbeard.com

Proraso Beard Oil Founded in 1908, Proraso are one of Italy’s premium shaving brands but they’ve grown into much more than this, establishing themselves around the world as one of the most innovative companies in the industry. Their new beard care collection contains a host of items you’ll love, but our pick was their Beard Oil. Even the longest, thickest beards can be tamed, softened, smoothed, and protected. A scent of cedar wood with notes of Mediterranean cistus leaves a pleasurable fresh scent. £12.99 – shaving-shack.com

Stripped Rosehip & Mandarin Moisturising Oil Made using 100% natural oils, this light moisturiser will nourish skin without leaving an oily residue. It helps to balance the skin, clear blemishes and stop them returning. Delicate carrier oils help to balance sebum, repair damaged skin and scars and increase cell renewal, whilst powerful mandarin, frankincense, rosemary, and lemon essential oils help to clean and cleanse pores, fight bacteria, smooth fine lines and wrinkles and promote a glowing complexion. £16.00 - strippedskincare.co.uk

Fudge Clean Blonde Violet Shampoo and Conditioner Duo Pack The trend for blonde colours shows no signs of slowing down, so to keep your clients’ hair from those unwanted yellow and brassy tones they’ll need a good shampoo and conditioner. Fudge have developed this duo specifically for that purpose and their dual pack is a fantastic retail opportunity. £17.95 – fudgeprofessional.com

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Allen’s Advice Natalie Allen, owner of Harvey Luke Salons is a leading educator within the hairdressing industry. After becoming an educator for Matrix L’Oréal, she worked on colour shows across the country with their artistic team.

Natalie has worked backstage at LCM and the National Wedding Shows, styled hair for the British Fashion Council, and headlined Hair Club Live events in Cardiff, London, and Leeds. She quickly built herself up as a no-nonsense business woman and is now the proud owner of three Harvey Luke Salons based in Derby, Natalie’s high standards of hairdressing is filtered through all three of her salons as she keeps her staff motivated and educated.

“I’m really passionate about my team and the customer service they offer. Education is key,” says Natalie after we asked her how important education is to her. “I ensure that all team members undergo regular and consistent bespoke training programmes that include advance cutting, bridal specialist training and modern up-to-date techniques in colour services.”

Natalie is evidently very enthusiastic about her team and the customer service they offer, there’s no doubting that the motivation from Natalie Allen’s hardworking 64 | SalonNV Magazine

ethos is pass down throughout her team, helping maintain a consistent level of service for her loyal customers. “Harvey Luke Hair provides total professionalism throughout the client journey and we pride ourselves in offering the highest standards of customer service, plus the ability to make you and your hair look and feel great! We like to create complimentary colour and enjoy classical hairstyling with a modern edge to complete an overall glamourous look. We love to recommend innovative styles and cuts to keep our clients inspired!”

Natalie is a professional salon business woman, so we wanted to find out how she goes about ensuring all three salons are reaching her high standards and how she went about handing over responsibility to open up her second and third salons.

She says: “When looking for managers in each of my salons I look for those that can communicate well, someone who goes that extra mile without needing instruction or praise to do so…these members are key to driving your business and team to success”

Natalie Allen

It’s clear that when owning your own salons it could be hard to allow someone else to take the reins. Natalie explained: “As you build up trust and confidence in them, you need to begin to offer them less support and delegate more responsibilities.

You can then monitor their progress weekly and guide them; you’ll soon feel happy for them to start taking full responsibility after a few months of offering support and seeing that they can perform to the standards that you have set.”

“Once you are happy with the way your manager is performing, you need to analyse how the business performs if you are not around. One really important promise I make myself is that if I take any annual leave I have to be confident enough to completely switch off my phone, have no involvement or make any decisions for the manager or team. Annual leave is an extremely crucial part of work morale and if you don’t take it and rest seriously it can lead to further issues.

Therefore, ensuring you trust your manager to make all important decisions efficiently.”

“Upon your return look at how the individuals have performed and look at the salon takings.

Has the team been

productive? Have cash levels dropped or been maintained? Best case scenario – they increase! Do a stock analysis and look at all the outgoings and incomings, then ask yourself, did the salon function exactly the same without me around? When the time comes that you feel totally satisfied with your whole team’s performance, start looking for your second salon!”

So what now for Natalie and her three salons? “I cut hair three days a week on the salon floor and have my own personal diary and contact details. Staff members never know which salon I am working in which can be a good way to keep them on their toes. I also like to do random drop-ins so you can check the salon is immaculate plus the team look great. Make time to talk to as many clients as possible. Clients feel special to have taken up some of your time.

When I do visit I think it it’s very important to praise your team based on performance face-to-face. Take a look into their personal files and productivity sheets as they will be up to date by your fantastic mangers, so you won’t need to disturb them to find out the information you want to know.”

Natalie certainly isn’t resting on her laurels and plans to improve the quality of her team. “Over the next two years we are strengthening the team’s core skills in techniques and precision. We have put together a bridal team and working at lots of promotional events like wedding fayres. We have a newly formed art team who are putting a collection of looks for both men and women to teach the staff to create signature looks for the team to promote. Bespoke sessions are also planned for the whole team but we’re mainly concentrating on column building, time management, upselling, importance of retailing!” www.SalonNV.co.uk | 65

No Brexit bother as beauty industry booms There’s no sign of any slowdown in the hair and beauty industry with 99% of salons and barbershops in the UK reporting plans to increase or maintain their staff numbers over the next year. That’s according to Sally Salon Services’ sixth annual Beautiful Britain report, a look into the state of the industry and how it’s performing.

are guaranteed a fixed income, no hassle. But of course, even then there are things to think about. They need to be of a sufficient quality that they won’t cause any damage to the reputation of your shop. And what happens when their rental period finishes and they move on? How do you find the next one?

The answer: Fantastic, with 86% of professionals saying 2016 was a good year for business, and 90% reporting no effect from Brexit.

Apprenticeships are another route that many salons go down to increase staff numbers at a reasonable cost, but of course it comes with a large element of training. You aren’t hiring the finished article and they’ll rely on you to help them improve and become a talented full-time member of staff once their apprenticeship is up.

The positivity coming out of hair and beauty businesses means an extra 50,000 jobs will need to be filled in salon this year, so now is the time to ask yourself how your salon is going to do that? Whether you rent chairs out or employ full-time staff, bringing on new employees can be a trying experience.

From advertising in the right place to making sure they have the right skills to further your salon, it’s not easy to find the perfect person. Then you need to consider whether to bring them in full-time or part-time, and how an extra salary will affect your prices: will you need to put them up?

That’s certainly why many salon choose to simply rent a chair. You

Of course, all these questions shouldn’t take away from the fact that things are going well. The annual spend on treatments for women is now £994, up £118 compared with last year. While for men it stands at £779, a rise of £68 from 2016.

So while we can all bask in positivity and be confident that our future is bright, it’s time to start thinking about expansion and the best way to go about it. Keep your eyes open over the next few months for new ways to improve your business.

Beautiful Britain 31,188 - Apprenticeships to be added this year 40% - Hair and beauty businesses with increased turnover 63% - Salons seeing more men through their doors 5.8 weeks – How often female clients in the North West get their hair cut £27 – Average price of a female haircut £14 – Average price of a male haircut 66 | SalonNV Magazine

erin gavin’s award show tips and tricks Award season is upon us in Hollywood and it is full of glitz and glamour.

Hollywood is bursting with red carpets, flashing lights, dresses galore, hair stylists, makeup artists, stylists, publicists, paps, agents, actors, managers, directors, producers, event organisers...phew, the list goes on! Anyway, it’s busy!

The Hollywood secret diet for many during this time of year is actually stress!

For some it has the opposite effect but for many they don’t want to eat as much under the ‘stressful pressure.’

Another Hollywood secret to looking like you have the perfect figure is choosing a brilliant stylist who knows how to choose an outfit that flatters your figure. Most of us (including the stars, they are human too) have a lumpy bumpy bit we don’t like and a professional stylist will know how to hide ‘those bits’ in an outfit.

The most talked about beauty products for 2017 award season was Fake Bake tanning solution for the body, IT cosmetics foundation, and Gucci’s new lipstick range. Also ‘bangs’ are back in fashion aka a fringe to you and me. According to hair stylists it’s the new in look in tinsel town. Try the look first. Buy a fake one before you chop those locks off.

My publicist Christine Peake at Peak PR has me on a busy schedule during award season attending red carpet events. To name a few...

The Grammys,Oscars, Toscars, OK! Magazine, CINE Magic, and Britannia awards. My Mum (wee Juney) was yet again my stylist! I wore a daring bright pink to the Grammys and funked it up with gypsy hooks and messy hair. The look was ideal for the Grammy glam but a little edgy. Even Katy Perry gave me the thumbs up for it.

For Oscars I went all red with gold jewellery. Another hit with 5 star dress hit from Radar magazine.

For OK! Magazine pre-Grammy party Sherri Hill dressed me. Sherri Hill dresses are unforgettable! I chose a little black number to fit with the hip retro party theme.

Reds and pinks with gold accessories are in at the moment if going to an upmarket event.

Black on sheer fabrics with jeans is the in casual hipster look right now for everyday in Hollywood!!

The LA everyday style is very casual compared to Europe and even the East Coast of the USA. The hipster look is upon us!

This wee Scottish one shall see you next time...xo

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hoxton Hair:

Ian Bruce-Low Styling: Bernard Connolly

Photography: Richard Miles

Make-up:

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An Interview with Larry The Barber Man

S O f I E

Forget The Chick-ery, This Barber Is The Real Deal

- StayGold31

W

hen I caught up with Sofie at the International Beauty Show, it was hot off the back of her having won BarberCon’s best female barber of the year award – a coveted prize which shows you the calibre of barber that we’re dealing with.

Almost every barber has a fight on their hands if they want to make it to the top, but as a minority within the industry, female barbers often find that this struggle is amplified. I’ve met a lot of formidable women barbers, each one with their own fascinating story to tell, and I’m always delighted to share their stories with you here. So without further ado, let’s get to know Sofie.

Barbering: Something that makes you want to wake up in the morning Sofie started as a hairdresser, but decided to transition into barbering after she found that hairdressing just wasn’t sparking the excitement and creativity that she looks for in a career. I’ve heard similar stories before from both male and female barbers, and I wanted to know more about how the transition happened and what made her jump from one side of the hair styling industry to the other: “I started doing hair about seven years ago: the first year I got into cosmetology, and going through that first year was a little bit tough because I couldn’t find that feeling where you’re just excited to get

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up every day, go to work, and have a good time. So, the second year I thought ‘before I give it all up, let me try men’s hair and see how that works.’ I jumped into a barbershop, and it was probably one of the most uncomfortable and intimidating moves I’ve done, working by myself as a female, with all guys who had way more experience than I have. Pretty soon after that it developed into a passion where it was challenging, it was fast-paced and it made me want to go to work and keep learning.

And my main focus was just to do what I could and try to make it work – because it was fun and I enjoyed it”.

With that kind of work ethic, Sofie winning the best female barber award won’t have come as a surprise to many of you - it’s clear that she deserves the recognition. For her though, it was a total shock, not least because she had only gone to showcase her work. So how did it feel to suddenly be told she’d won a huge barbering prize?

“I was completely speechless. To be recognised after all these years of knowing how hard it is first of all to be a barber, but then to be a female which made it extremely difficult in the beginning”. I also asked her whether she had a theory as to why she’d won, and she told me that what she puts out is very real, never sugar-coating anything, and focusing on connecting with others who are still learning and giving them advice, providing inspirational content and the energy to keep going.

Of course, aside from giving a lot back to the barbering community and helping others, Sofie also crafts exceptional haircuts. “That’s the plus side, because you have to! We are the minority of this entire industry in just the barbering world alone, so we’ve got to cut twice as hard. That helped me separate myself from everyone else”.

The rise of female barbers So, while seeing a woman cutting hair on the barbershop floor used to be a rare occurrence, it’s becoming a lot more common, with the growth of the industry making room for a very welcome increase in diversity: “Now I’m seeing that growth in a lot of States where women are not

being afraid anymore, and they’re coming into this world and trying to hold their own. It’s starting to change where people aren’t just saying ‘oh, you’re good for a girl’ – no, you’re good, period. And that’s what it should be, it shouldn’t be segregated… ‘you’re okay for a chick’. But it’s those little things that have pushed me to where I am now; you’ve got to find those moments that drive you even further.”

Within Sofie’s own career, she’s found a lot of different ways to help people find that drive to move forward, including a YouTube channel featuring educational how to videos: “I think it’s important to show people that you’re not just taking shortcuts and making it look nice. I represent BaByliss for barbers, and it’s important for me to show that I’m actually using these tools to do things. People want to feel like it’s real and attainable. I want to break it down and make it easy, because I know what it’s like to just be handed a pair of clippers and not really know the specs or what is out there. I break down toll knowledge because I think it’s important for us to understand why we’re using it so

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we can do it better.”

Most of these videos can be found on Sofie’s Instagram staygold31, where every barber should be following her work!

Alongside inspirational posts, you’ll find information about the BaByliss brand that she’s an ambassador for. I know that picking up a great ambassador role is a big dream for many barbers, so I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to find out how Sofie landed the job: “A lot of companies are looking for people who can already sell themselves. The first four or five years I’ve just built my page off of things that I enjoy. You have to find what’s pure to you and that’s how you’re going to build an audience, because people want to follow real people. BaByliss are looking for people who can already promote themselves. People were sceptical at the time – I was sceptical – but I took the risk and I’m so glad I did.”

BaByliss have certainly grown into a very credible brand over the past few years, and it’s great that we’re starting to see barbers embrace another set of tools -after all, the more diversity there is in your clipper collection, the more opportunities you have to provide different styles. For Sofie, this had meant taking an educational role, getting up on stage and showing what these clippers can do.

The final element to Sofie’s work is building her personal brand, with a range of Stay Gold pins for barbers to wear on their aprons. If you want to support her work then you can check these out on Instagram, although she also has a brand new website coming soon. She’s also been focusing on taking great photos in order to better promote herself: “It came with cutting hair. I used to use an iPhone, but with higher quality photography you can not only put your work out there better, but also study your haircuts a little more, see the details. Different camera settings, new things that you can do. Overall, create a better portfolio for yourself, and I think that’s really important as well as your presentation. You know you could be a good barber but if you don’t have good presentation how are you going to get clientele, build business opportunities. People will notice the little details, it separates pages apart because of the quality that you invest in yourself.”

Reflecting on the industry Before I let Sofie shoot off and get back on stage, I have one final question to ask: what she thinks of the state of the industry today. Getting a professional barber’s insight on the industry today is always informative since things have changed so much in recent years. With that in mind, and to embrace the positive

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spirit of the International Beauty Show I asked Sofie what she loves about the industry: “How much men’s hair has grown. Because a little while ago men weren’t into their hair as much, but that stigma for men who want to get their eyebrows done, that’s gone. Now men want to look better and feel better. Men are getting their hair cut three or four times as much as women now, so the industry is coming up to the same point as female hairdressing.”

Thanks for taking the time to get to know another wonderful up and coming barbering – young barbers like Sofie bring so much energy and enthusiasm to the career that we all have something to learn from them! Don’t forget to find her on Instagram as StayGold31. While you’re there, you can also follow me - larrythebarberman - and then head on over to my YouTube channel at barbers.tv. In the meantime, happy clipping and I look forward to bringing you more barber profiles soon.

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A C H A R A

Showc a se

74 | SalonNV Magazine

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Hair: Maye Garrote & Different Estilistas Stylist: Eunnis Mesa Photography: David Arnal MUA: Alex Alva Styling: Clare Frith

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 75

May/june 2017 Training Dates Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

9th May

1 Day

Pre-bonded & Micro-ring Course

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£549.99

0843 289 5198

11th May

1 Day

Sienna X Level 1 - Pro Tan Course

Salon Services

Liverpool

£95.00

0113 270 0010

14th May

5 Days

Foundation Makeup Course

Academy of Make-up

Glasgow

£1,200.00

0141 248 4393

15th May

1 Day

The Ultimate Tape Course

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£499.99

0843 289 5198

18th May

1 Day

American Volume Lashes

Novalash

Edinburgh

POA

01273 041966

19th May

1 Day

Facial Course

Salon Services

Crawley

£100.00

0330 123 1907

22nd May

1 Day

Matrix Progressive

Alan Howard

Leeds

£200.00

0113 270 0010

22nd May

1 Day

The Complete Micro-ring Course

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£549.99

0843 289 5198

22nd May

2 Days

Sienna X Level 1 - Pro Tan Course

Salon Services

Poole

£95.00

0113 270 0010

23rd May

1 Day

Matrix Biolage Blossoms

Alan Howard

Hull

FREE

0845 345 8555

23rd May

1 Day

Matrix Biolage Blossoms

Alan Howard

Wolverhampton

FREE

0845 345 8555

29th May

9 Days

Complete Bridal Makeup Course

Academy of Make-up

Aberdeen

£2,000.00

0141 248 4393

30th May

1 Day

Sienna X Level 1 - Pro Tan Course

Salon Services

Cardiff

£95.00

0113 270 0010

31st May

1 Day

Salon Systems Warm Waxing Course Salon Services

Exeter

£115.00

0113 270 0010

1st June

1 Day

Salon Systems Warm Waxing Course Salon Services

Belfast

£115.00

0113 270 0010

2nd June

1 Day

Hot Stone Massage

Salon Services

Bassingstoke

£110.00

0113 270 0010

5th June

Half Day

The Stylist Listens

Alan Howard

Preston

FREE

0845 345 8555

5th June

11 Days

Pro Makeup Course

Academy of Make-up

Glasgow

£2,357.00

0141 248 4393

5th June

5 Days

Foundation Makeup Course

Academy of Make-up

Glasgow

£1,200.00

0141 248 4393

12th June

1 Day

Hot Stone Massage

Salon Services

Chester

£110.00

0113 270 0010

13th June

1 Day

Sienna X Level 1 - Pro Tan Course

Salon Services

Cardiff

£95.00

0113 270 0010

19th June

1 Day

The Ultimate Weft & Weave Course

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£449.99

0843 289 5198

19th June

2 Days

Studio Makeup Advanced

Academy of Make-up

Glasgow

£410.00

0141 248 4393

20th June

Half Day

Joi Colour Essentials Course

Alan Howard

S. Park

FREE

0845 345 8555

27th June

1 Day

Pre-bonded & Micro-ring Course

Beauty Works Pro

Manchester

£549.99

0843 289 5198

28th June

1 Day

Matrix Biolage Blossoms

Alan Howard

Sheffield

FREE

0845 345 8555

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To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk 76 | SalonNV Magazine

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Belluna Wash

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expert salon design-affordable furniture

T. 016 70 73 89 79

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 77

LOVE

YOUR

HAIR

LOVE CHOOSING YOUR HAIR EXTENSIONS LOVE

YOUR

LOOK

#GorgeousHairIsAChoice Ask your #RCStylist remicachet.com 78 | SalonNV Magazine