SalonNV Issue 10 by Gallus Media

ISSUE 10. OC T/ NOV 2 016 .

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I N S P I R I NG U K & I R E L A N D S A L O N S UC C E S S

JO MALONE HIGH DEFINITION SOPRANO ICE

SALON INTERNATIONAL

UNITE

OLYMPIA BEAUTY

DREAM HAIR

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2 | SalonNV Magazine

WELCOME T

his job takes you to some amazing places, like Salon International, and to meet some fantastic people, like everyone at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards, but I think I topped everything this month when I met Jo Malone. Getting to meet one of the most inspiring women in the business world and someone I’ve looked up to my entire career was a truly special moment and the fact Jo was so down to earth and lovely was the icing on the cake. You can read my chat with her later on, it’s a real eye-opener into what makes such a driven businesswoman tick. In honour of some of the fantastic winners at SHABA we’ve featured Best Beauty Salon winner Soprano Ice as our Salon of the Month and Best Stylist Winner Marie Mcintosh Ramminger of Dream Hair is our Stylist of the Month. We have a new monthly column from Kay Corbett, a stylist at Medusa who has been chosen as one of the prestigious Wella Generation NOW Team and will be keeping us updated with her journey in each issue.

Our Academy of the Month is High Definition who have four elite academies around the UK and are continuing to innovate and educate with each passing year. And we went Behind the Brand with American giants Unite who are trying to make their mark in the UK. There were so many events over the past couple of months it was hard to keep up! Our roving reporter, and SHABA co-host, Josie Smith went to Olympia Beauty, while myself and the team headed to Salon International and Barber Cut in Dublin – quite an experience! Not to mention SHABA of course, and we have full details of all the winners and some great pictures of a unforgettable night. As always there’s all the latest industry news and the hottest products from the world of hair and beauty, not to mention some fantastic features to keep you looking fashionable this Christmas, with the biggest trends in hair and clothes, and the looks inspiring everyone in our Showcase section. Enjoy the issue and we’ll see you again at Christmas!

Joanne X

JOANNE REID | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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www.salonnv.co.uk INSPIRING UK & IRELAND SALON SUCCESS Founder & Editor-in-chief Joanne Reid | Sub Editor Simon Ritchie | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil | Head Designer Ross Stewart Telesales Executive Ryan Dickson-Moore | Design & Marketing PrintNV | Cover Image Shutterstock | Pictures Shutterstock, Brian Anderson, Brian Hayes Cover Image – The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Project X Team 2016, Photography - Barry Jeffery, Make-up - Elizabeth Rita, Styling - Desiree Lederen, Art Direction - Errol Douglas MBE | Thanks Mr Haircare - Emil McMahon, CocorocoPR, Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, Barber Cut, B TheAgency, Su-pr, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Hairdressing Council, UNITE, Hair and Beauty World, Blue Tit, NovaLash, Josie Smith, High Definition, Kiehl’s, Beauty Works, The Training Company, Orbit Smoke, Fit for Vikings, Mood, Esteem, Epibrow, Grosvenor Riverboat Casino, Salon International, Jo Malone, Foxy Hair Extensions, Pevonia, Jennifer Peffer, Pamela Docherty, Marie Mcintosh Ramminger, Soprano Ice, Debbie Stewart, Joe Coubrough, Kay Corbett, Medusa Hair Group, Wella, Clayde Baumann, Jack Howard, Karine Jackson, James Taylor, Tasha Stevens, Rae Palmer, Schwarzkopf Professional, Jason Hall, Fudge Professional, Marc Ross. Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 2125 525 | Web www.SalonNV.co.uk Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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NEWS FEATURES INDUSTRY NEWS

INDUSTRY BODIES

OLYMPIA BEAUTY 10 SCOTTISH HAIR & 14 BEAUTY AWARDS

22 JO MALONE 36 MARIE MCINTOSH RAMMINGER

38 SOPRANO ICE SALON INTERNATIONAL 18 40 BEHIND THE BRAND: UNITE

PRODUCTS

42 KAY CORBETT – WELLA

EDITOR’S CHOICE

HAIR

HAIR EXTENSIONS

SKIN & MAKE UP

52 SHOWCASE

NAILS, HANDS & FEET

60 MALE GROOMING

BODY, TANNING & WAXING

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

DETOX, WELLBEING

GENERATION NOW

50 WINTER COLOUR TRENDS

62 BARBER CUT DUBLIN 68 FASHION WEEK 70 AUTUMN FASHION TRENDS

& AESTHETIC BEAUTY

BUSINESS TRAINING LIZ MCKEON: PRICING 44 THE CARETAKER

.EMIL MCMAHON NEW SALONS

64 ACADEMY OF THE MONTH:

HIGH DEFINITION

72 TRAINING DATES

INSPIRING UK & IRELAND SALON SUCCESS

CONTENTS ISSUE 10 | OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 5

New annual NovaLash Lashoff competition

Blue Tit Vision Team announced Sustainable salon group Blue Tit has revealed the members of its exclusive Vision Team, a collection of young stylists who thrive on creativity and providing inspiration to other young stylists. A springboard to becoming a member of the renowned Blue Tit Artistic Team, the Vision Team is also the perfect platform for younger Blue Tit stylists to showcase their creative talents to the company as a whole. The team consists of Tom Warr, manager of Blue Tit Brixton, Silvio Hauke, finalist of the prestigious 2015 British Hairdressing Awards, Chris Merrick, manager of Blue Tit Clapton, Harriet Franks, manager of Blue Tit Peckham, Christoph Haider, Blue Tit stylist and make-up artist, Kamila Pruszek, a longserving Blue Tit colour expert, and Robbie McPhilomey, co-manager of Blue Tit Peckham.

For the first time ever, the annual NovaLash Lashoff competition has landed in the UK and Ireland, giving certified NovaLash stylists the opportunity to showcase their creativity and a chance to pick up one of two highly coveted awards, the ‘Lash Artist of the Year’ and ‘Fans’ Choice of the Year’ at a celebratory event in Houston, USA. Entrants must show off their talent, creativity, and passion for the eyelash extension industry by submitting an up to five minute long video showcasing their work alongside two before images and two after images to novalash.com/lash-off-contest/ by December 5th 2016.

Professional Beauty North 2016

Professional Beauty North welcomed over 15,000 visitors for their annual show where over 500 brands descended on Manchester Central to show the latest wares and advances in the beauty profession. The market leaders of the industry joined together to deliver an unforgettable show. From teaching live on stage, in-depth seminars, nail and make-up championships,

and brand showcases and demonstrations, it was a truly phenomenal event. Salon North and Aesthetics Medicine North made their debuts as part of Professional Beauty, completing the show experience by offering three exhibitions under one roof. The annual two-day event seems to be getting bigger each year, and we can’t wait until 2017.

Jamie has the X Factor

The Hairdressers’ Charity Born from the Hair and Beauty Benevolent, The Hairdressers’ Charity is the new official charity of the hair industry and has been created to help hairdressers in need. Established to support hairdressers and ex-hairdressers who have been affected by illness, disability, bereavement, or financial hardship, The Hairdressers’ Charity will aim to raise funds through a variety of initiatives,

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with the money going to those in the industry who need it most. David Drew, The Hairdressers’ Charity President for 2016/17 explains: “This is big news for the industry and charity – we’ve been around in one form or another since 1853 but this new change sees us a registered charity for the first time ever.”

After taking a break to launch his MR. JAMIE STEVENS range of hair products last year, award-winning hairdresser Jamie Stevens has returned for a fifth year as The X Factor hairstylist. One of the most in-demand hairdressers in the UK, Jamie was brought back into the X Factor fold after a special plea from the producers and he has already shown off some incredible styles on this year’s show, with much more to come! He said: “It’s fantastic to be back amongst The X Factor madness and there’s some amazing talent this year, I’m really looking forward to creating some A-list transformations.” Check our chat with Jamie at Salon International later in the issue.

Entries open for Hair Council’s Student of the Year Awards 2017 Entries are now being accepted for the Hair Council’s UK Hairdressing Student of the Year Awards 2017. If you’re a hairdressing student in either Level 2 or Level 3 you can enter this most prestigious of awards, which will be judged by celebrity hairdressers Jamie Stevens, Andrew Barton, and Patrick Cameron. Level 2 entrants will be asked to dress hair in a red carpet fashion and the Level 3 entrants will be asked to cut and blow dry an innovative style of their choice. Two photos of their model should be submitted as support of their entry. The closing date for nominations is December 16th 2016 and the closing date for images is February 24th 2017. Visit www.haircouncil.org.uk for more information.

Afro hair prize for Charlotte Mensah Charlotte Mensah, Afro Hairdresser of the Year for 2013 and 2014, added another top accolade to her trophy cabinet when the Charlotte Mensah Manketti Hair Oil won ‘Best Afro Hair Enhancer’ at the Beast Beauty by Stylist Awards. Launched back in March, the Mankhetti Hair Oil has already taken the industry by storm with its ability to deliver moisture, softness, definition, and shine to Afro and mixed-race hair types.

Brexit benefits Despite rumours of challenging conditions in the beauty and personal care sector following the vote to leave the European Union, CACI International have reported that sales have been on the rise since the vote as consumers clamour to buy products ‘Made in Britain’. With the pound falling against the dollar as a consequence of Brexit, overseas customers are taking advantage of favourable exchange rates to snap up CACI non-surgical facelift machines.

milk_shake go pink milk_shake’s best selling Whipped Cream is in the pink this October to raise funds for breast cancer research charities for the fourth consecutive year. For every can of milk_shake Whipped Cream conditioning and protective leavein foam purchased, milk_shake will donate £1 to this truly amazing cause. So get buying!

Davines Hair on Stage More than 800 hairdressers packed the prestigious Auditorium Teatro Manzoni in the historic city centre of Bologna, Italy to watch the hotly anticipated Davines Hair on Stage 2016 show. This inspiring venue saw a range of top experts performing on stage, showing off their latest collections, and also the final of the World Style Contest, where six Italian finalists competed to win a place on the next World Wide Hair Tour. Alessandra Pucci won a double award for Best Stylist and Best Cut and Andrea Gennaro won for Best Colour and also the Social Award voted directly on Facebook salon clients and Davines Community. One of the highlights of the event was a part-show, part-educational talk from Davines Artistic Director Angelo Seminara, who moved and enriched the audience by sharing his passion and philosophy.

The Clubstars are in After originally entering back in July, six upand-coming young hairdressers have been picked to join the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s ClubStar Art Team for 2017, one of the most sought after education programmes in the industry. Former F.A.M.E. Team member Simon Tuckwell was part of the judging panel and said: “We had the highest number of applicants this year. The calibre was extremely high and were so impressed with how well everyone presented their ideas and models to us.” The six winners who will now embark on a year of fantastic mentoring days with top name industry experts are Amy Burgess, Clare Hatherill, Ellie Bond, Evangeline Barratt, Joe Stoker, and Lois Negus.

INVISILOCKS training Luxury hair extension brand CrownCouture has announced the first of their training courses for 2017, offering a Fast Track INVISILOCKS Course to hair professionals. The two-day course will be held at CrownCouture’s training academy and flagship salon in Edinburgh on Sunday 8th and Monday 9th January 2017. The course is also available as a one-day option for attendees wishing to complete their model at home; these attendees will need to complete a case study at home to successfully complete the course. Price: £380 exc. VAT per student.

To book a place please call 0131 299 2128.

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Good news day for ghd with Coty purchase Market-leading hair appliance brand ghd has been purchased by American giants Coty for £420m where it will join other global hair care brands like Wella. It comes in the brand’s 15th anniversary year and follows another sterling performance with revenue of £178m in 2016 from dominant commercial operations in the United Kingdom, Australia, the United States,

Germany, France, Spain, Italy, and several other markets. ghd will become part of the Coty Professional Beauty division, where it will be managed as a standalone business led by its current CEO Anthony Davey and management team. Anthony will report to Sylvie Moreau, President of Coty Professional Beauty.

Westrow celebrates winning Lifestyle Award Westrow, the award-winning, Yorkshire-based educational academy and eight-strong salon group, is celebrating after its Street Lane Franchise won Best Hair and Beauty Salon at the Leeds Lifestyle Awards.Headed up by Franchisees, Jenny Pelter and Amy Lopez, the North Leeds salon, which opened in 2013, beat off stiff competition from nine

other finalists in its category to take home the trophy for Best Hair and Beauty Salon in the city. The inaugural event was held at the Royal Armouries in Leeds on Wednesday 5th October 2016, where more than 250 guests from businesses across the city gathered for a celebration of the best in lifestyle businesses in the city.

Spargo Hairdressing wins Customer Care and Service award

Spargo Hairdressing in Brentwood are on top of their customer service game, having won the Customer Care and Service award at the Essex Business Excellence Awards. It’s a fantastic award for the salon who were given the award in recognition of the length they go to for their customers, staying truly focussed on the client journey whilst listening and positively responding to customer feedback. Their customer service credentials are truly top of the range and with the creation of Spargoland, the first purpose-built nonprofit salon specially designed for people with learning and physical difficulties, well underway, there’s sure to be more awards in the future.

Estee Lauder has purchased Becca Cosmetics for a fee believed to be around $200m. Hairdressing community mourn death of Herbert Howe The hairdressing community is in mourning at the death of one of our most extravagant and flamboyant figures, Herbert Howe. Well-known around his hometown of Liverpool, and the rest of the UK, for both his hairdressing talent and outgoing personality, he founded top salon Herbert of Liverpool and was a stylist to stars all over the north. His charity campaigns and fundraising will leave a lasting legacy in Liverpool and beyond, with people like comedian Ricky Tomlinson and Mayor of Liverpool Joe Anderson paying tribute to his selfless generosity.

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Becca isn’t the first company to be snapped up by the American conglomerate that also owns MAC and Clinique, with By Killian, Glamglow, Le Labo, and Frederic Malle all joining their ranks. It’s seen as a smart move for Estee Lauder, with Becca popular among the younger crowd and known for their collaborations with YouTube stars. With revenue in the region of $80m this year, it’s a company on the up and Estee have been quick to act on the brand founded in 2001 but really making headway in recent years.

After a relatively quiet August The Fellowship for British Hairdressing welcomed autumn with an array of incredible events.

Right to work checks New rules cracking down on firms that employ people illegally came into effect on 12 July under the Immigration Act 2016. The NHF is warning salons to do the necessary ‘right to work’ checks including: that documentation is genuine and undoctored, that photographs look the same (and are actually of the applicant), that the birth dates and ages tally, that the person can show evidence they have permission to do the work they’re applying for, and that their right to work in the UK has not expired. Don’t risk big fines by being found guilty of employing an illegal worker.

Coming Up October is a chance for The Fellowship to get ready for a busy November and December, while also putting on another fantastic stage show at Salon International. November is a chance to see an amazing line up in Edinburgh for the Scottish Masterclass, while in London an opportunity to see what the Project X and Colour Project Teams have been up to at their eagerly anticipated Finale Evening. All these events can be booked by visiting www. fellowshiphair with events selling out fast due to demand.

Pre registration is a ‘pilot’ scheme/project (still to be officially named) to get young people coming into the industry to actively know about and engage with us about The Hair and Barber Council, our cause and values. Initially there will be three FE Colleges and one Private Training Provider (possibly more over the coming months) launching this pilot with us officially at the beginning of September 2017, although all plans have to be in place by spring 2017 at the latest for when the Colleges launch their respective prospectuses. We must connect more strongly with the up and coming, new talent that is coming into the industry, in most cases they have never heard of The Hair Council or the cause we stand for. Designed to capture the student’s interest from day one, this scheme has already gained significant and growing support from these FE Colleges, stakeholders and colleagues and although still in its infancy we have great plans for this scheme in the future! As part of this initiative, and to ensure its place within the curriculum, all hair and barber teaching staff are also required to become registered with us thus showing their total support to the scheme and to mandatory registration. Watch this space for regular updates! Towards the end of September, we were invited to attend the launch of ‘The Hairdressers Charity’, hosted by L’Oreal at their premises in Hammersmith. 100% of any contributions/donations made to them will all go to the beneficiaries, not one penny will be spent on administration or salaries! In addition, the charity will receive a further 25p for every pound donated via the Inland Revenue. This is an amazing cause and I urge all our members to get behind it and support them wherever they can. It is all about ‘Helping Hairdressers in Need’ and who knows when any one of us might need their support in the future. My sincere congratulations to all of their committee on getting this charity started and for the huge amount of goodwill this will ultimately give to our industry and the help and support to its recipients. A real inspiration! Our work is continuing and gaining momentum towards our cause for mandatory registration for the Hair and Barber industries. MPs are actively seeking our thoughts and the discussions are becoming more and more positive! The Hair Council has the ‘mandate’ from Government to maintain, protect and grow the hair and barber register.

THE FELLOWSHIP

THE HAIRDRESSING COUNCIL

NHF

Fellowship Events On Tuesday 20th September Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year Andy Heasman welcomed a sold out audience to L’Oréal. It was a night for Andy to showcase just why he deserved such an incredible accolade. He presented beautiful looks and put on an incredible show, plus guests got the chance to hear an insight into his amazing career in a one to one interview with President Bruno Marc. Business Events Business is a new area of events for The Fellowship and over the last few years these type of seminars have become more and more popular. On Monday 19th September Edward Hemmings hosted a fantastic evening at the ghd Studios in London, where he was joined by industry icon Lee Stafford. His interview provided an opportunity to hear how Lee has come to be where he is today and he really took the time to talk about his own professional and personal journey. After a quick networking session over a drink or two, everyone then took to their seats again for the question and answer session with leading experts Clive Collins from HOB; Michelle Griffin from Griffins Academy and Louise Wood from LWPR. ClubStar Events ClubStar is tailored to young hairdressers aged 16-25 and it’s a chance for them to take the next step in their career. Their calendar features evenings with industry talent, while also providing workshops to enhance their skills and expertise. Monday 26th September was a chance for both London and Leeds to attend fantastic ClubStar events. In London an evening with HOB provided a night at their Academy where their Art Team demonstrated some beautiful looks from their latest collections, while in Leeds it was a chance to learn more about this membership with their ClubStar Open Evening and to see the Art Team in action.

National Minimum Wage Remember the National Minimum Wage rates increased on 1 October 2016 and you must ensure you are fully compliant with the new rates. While changing your rates make sure you check that employees are in the correct age-related band as these may change if they have had a birthday. Check whether they need to move off the apprenticeship rate if they have completed an apprenticeship, or if they’ve completed the first year of an apprenticeship if they’re 19 or over. Go to the NHF website to check you’re paying the correct rates and to download the NHF guide (members only). Non-compete clauses The government has made a ‘call for evidence’ looking at whether non-compete clauses should be banned from employment contracts because they stifle entrepreneurship. The NHF has argued that in service industries such as hairdressing, barbering, or beauty, the relationship with clients is a key part of running a successful business. Allowing too much freedom for former employees to set up a new business on their doorstep and poaching clients can be potentially devastating for an otherwise successful salon or barbershop. Let us know what you think. The next step is for the government to make specific proposals which will go out for consultation. NHF Events There are still plenty of NHF events happening between now and the end of the year, including the Welsh Awards in Cardiff, Insight into Afro in Birmingham, and How to do effective salon marketing to attract new clients keep regulars coming back in York, all this November, plus many more to come. Go to www.nhf.info/events for further information. If you’re not a member of the NHF and want to find out how we can help you and your business visit us at www.nhf.info

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Josie Smith at

OLYMPIA BEAUTY Olympia Beauty is a mandatory annual pilgrimage for tens of thousands of beauty professionals, and 2016’s show proved to be no different. From across the globe, from Sussex to Slovenia, beauty therapy professionals; salon owners and managers, qualified beauty therapists, make up artists, hairdressers, nail technicians, complementary therapy practitioners, beauty bloggers, college buyers, and beauty therapy students converged in a manicured, perfumed cloud upon Kensington in west London, over two days on the 2nd and 3rd of October.

hese dedicated beauty fans were in attendance to take in the exhibition spectacle of over 500 of the UK’s leading beauty trade suppliers, including skin care, body treatments, hair; make up, tanning, nails and complementary therapies. As well as those keen to research and buy the latest beauty products and services for their businesses, many of the international visitors to Olympia were there to compete in the show’s competitions. This year, ‘Brush Wars’, ‘Nailympia’, and 10 | SalonNV Magazine

‘The Lash Games’ gave artists the chance to really showcase their talents, as they dabbed, stroked and glued their creations together under the watchful eyes of judges, photographers, and their fellow industry professionals. 2016 also saw many opportunities for attendees to learn, as well as compete. The live stages saw everything from Neuromuscular Re-educationism Shoulder Workshops, (NMRsm is a stand-alone hands-on technique for the evaluation and

functional treatment of over 90% of the soft tissue injuries you will see in practice), to discussions on the future of Mesotherapy. (Mesotherapy provides the skin with a special cocktail of nutrients such as hyaluronic acid, vitamins, minerals and amino acids to boost its appearance significantly.) Furthermore, this year at Olympia, The Advanced Beauty Conference took place - covering all areas of the industry relevant to professionals, from clinical and scientific topics all the way through to business and marketing workshops.

As I wandered around Olympia, as well as feeling vaguely ashamed of my somewhat limp home blowdry, I realised that broadly speaking, there appeared to be two main advertising messages, and possibly strategic approaches from exhibitors. Research and technological development being as rapid as it is in the industry currently, means businesses are keen to stress the cutting edge scientific pros of their products. This was illustrated by the level of interest at the show in the likes of the renowned ‘OPERA’ mask from LED Aesthetics. The low-level light therapy LED mask utilises 3 wavelengths to provide a multitude of skin rejuvenation treatments to the face and neck. (If like me your current guilty pleasure is The Real Housewives of Cheshire, you’ll have seen it on TV as well in countless other magazine articles, beauty blogs, and TV shows.) This kind of laser technology, along with non-surgical injectable treatments, and facial topical treatments are becoming more and more commonplace in salons across the UK, and the number of stands at Olympia this year offering such advanced clinical add-ons

for businesses, and technological training opportunities suggests to me that it’s a sector which will rapidly expand. There’s even the LED light therapy for vaginal rejuvenation and tightening now! However, at the other end of the (LED) spectrum, many new businesses and start up companies are choosing to go down a much less mechanised, altogether more natural route. Today, more than ever, we’re more aware and informed of what we put in, and in this case on, our bodies. The organic toiletries business continues to outperform the overall growth rate of the beauty industry as a whole, and you only have to look at the success of ‘natural’ companies like Neal’s Yard Remedies, Botanics Organics, and Dr Bronner, to see that the clear message from consumers is that products which are wherever possible fair trade certified, organic, and not tested on animals are preferable to those which are. Furthermore the omission of colourants, mineral oils, silicones, parabens, and pearlising agents are frequently the first line used to advertise goods and services now.

At Olympia this year I noticed many of the smaller stand spaces filled by the likes of Dr.PAWPAW - the UK’s first multi-purpose fragrance free paw paw based balm, which can be used on lips, skin, hair, cuticles, and nails, and The Highland Wax company, whose natural beeswax is produced in the Scottish Highlands. Its range includes massage wax (a semi-solid massage product which melts in contact with skin, it offers professional massage therapists greater tissue control throughout treatments), beeswax bars, and beeswax candles. Of course it’s worth remembering that not all brands marketing themselves as natural are entirely ‘pure’ or free from synthetic ingredients. Many small, apparently bespoke companies are in fact owned by big conglomerates. But as natural products shed their hippy image, it’s an area of business that many salons would do well to pay attention to, and potentially buy into. With so much to buy, see, and learn, I found myself ironically almost in need of a pedicure, so worn out were my feet from trying to take it all in! But in between getting www.SalonNV.co.uk | 11

my teeth whitened at Megawhite, (which was a great little pick me up, and left me looking much more Rylan-like), and rubbing some Dr.PawPaw limited edition Red Sparkle balm onto my cheeks, (who knew fermented Pawpaw is actually a great Christmas gift!) I caught up with some well known industry professionals on the Louella Belle stand. Hertfordshire-based Louella Belle is the sole UK distributor of professional manicure, pedicure, beauty, and spa products including industry favourites like Artistic Nail Design, Ardell, and Morgan Taylor. They supply salons, beauty therapists, and nail technicians nationwide, and at Olympia this year they were joined by Katharin von Gavel, who is a pioneer in the specialised field of foot care. Katharin, a featured platform speaker and recognized educator in foot care, has studied Dermatology and Paramedical Esthetics in Europe, holds degrees in Podology, Chiropody, and Pedorthics and is a Certified Master Pedicurist. Her new range Footlogix, the world’s first and only Pediceutical Mousse Foot Care line is exclusive to Louella Belle. I found Katharin to be immensely warm, and exceptionally passionate, not just about her products, but also on the subject of educating beauty technicians. Through 12 | SalonNV Magazine

Footlogix, she’d like to see a change to the atypical cosmetic slant to a pedicure - to one with more emphasis on wellbeing. “I see a trend towards wellness - it’s interesting that the consumer is changing how they think about their health, which in turn changes the professionals. Access to information means customers are better informed than ever before. This helps professionals to be forced into educating, and elevating themselves more. People need to look for new and exciting products, and not just be using the same old, same old. Pedicure-wise, over the last decade or so, we’ve not seen the same industry advances as the worlds of nails and hair. Lots of pedicure products are basically just the same but sometimes simply smell different or are a different colour.” Comparing the UK and her home country of Canada, Katharin praised the interest in education displayed by British professionals, as she wholeheartedly welcomes the desire to learn. With all of us having seemingly less time all the time, Katharin felt compelled to develop Footlogix products, which you can simply use and go, due to their mousse dermal infusion technology - which absorbs better than a liquid. In particular Katharin is eager for professionals to try the Footlogix callus softener with foot file, the rough skin mousse, and the toenail tincture, but it’s

definitely worth checking out all of this this charming Canadian’s range at footlogix.com. Also joining the Louella Belle team at Olympia this year were Morgan Haile and Taylor Daniel, the inspiration behind Morgan Taylor and the daughters of Hand & Nail Harmony executives, CEO and Founder Danny Haile and President David Daniel. As well as promoting their fall 2016 collection inspired by the courageous female pioneers of the aviation industry, (FYI the girls could envisage Amelia Earhart sporting ‘Put a wing on it’), they were also judges at Nailympia, where they were both entertained and impressed by the way contestants interpreted the runway nail category’s ‘American Prohibition’ theme which featured everything from feathers to tiny guns. Chatting to these two friendly and likeable businesswomen, I really enjoyed learning about their views on nail trends in their native US. “When we first launched Morgan Taylor in 2013 in the UK, there was no glitter really but lots of pinks, reds, and greens. As we’ve returned year after year to Olympia though, we’ve seen a regular increase in the number of textures and finishes - which we like. In the states, California on the west coast has no limit to colour or textures, nail art as a whole is very explosive. At the other end of the

country in NY, actually nail art is quite clean, maybe a little colour blocking here and there. It’s more conservative. And then even more traditional are the southern states - it’s all pinks and reds, and bright pink is as far as it goes. In the north and midwest they play with colour but not with neons. Miami and Cali is where it’s at with colour really. “We see make-up trends are returning to basics and to a feeling of natural beauty less contouring and more of a subtle colour wash. This relates to nails in that nudes and neutrals are really popular right now, but ones that work for every skin tone – beiges, nudes browns etc. When we attended NYC fashion week recently it was more 80s and simple - natural looks; but with a pop - nude nails but with a touch of glitter or stone… Like subtle nail art but with a statement somewhere.” The girls are atypically American in that they are very positive and bubbly, but when I pressed them about negative traits in the industry they said, “We wish people were that bit more willing to try new colours, almost no-one is willing to try new yellows/blues/greens, and obviously with no demand there can be no supply. We also find it quite irritating when we meet nail industry veterans who haven’t changed the way they work for decades, and aren’t willing to do so. We’d like to see professionals in the

industry value education more - nails have changed a lot over the last 20 years! When Morgan Taylor first started, we wanted it to be professional - by and for nail technicians, we wanted to encompass everything in one bottle a pro would want. We are known for our colour - our product will stick - and we are a family company and we want to continue the legacy of past generations. Nail brands are everywhere but it is about having the means to create a quality product. We have that. It’s not just about flashy packaging, we think about everything - even the brush! Anyone can use our product, and happily you don’t have to reapply it constantly.” These girls know nails, but they also shared some of their favourite beauty products with me. “Million Dollar Tan is a great self-tan, the Anastasia brow pencil - it’s fine tipped and precise. Hot Tools curling irons are fabulous, and the chapstick Smith’s Rosebud Salve is amazing. You can use it as a lip balm or on zits, burns whatever!” After I’d made a personal vow to be more adventurous with my nail colour choices, and said my goodbyes to Morgan and Taylor, I was then joined by yet another commanding female force from the world of Louella Belle, world champion nail artist and author Alisha Rimando Botero, who heads up Artistic Nail Design. In addition to more than 100 gel polish colours, Artistic Nail Design produces professional nail artistry tools and implements, a complete line of exceptional quality hard gels, and high quality LED lights. Alisha explained Artistic Nail Design is such a favourite, “Because it’s a brand that has used the latest technology - from rock hard extension lines to artistic colour gloss [a soak off gel polish.] There’s a patent on our bonding gel and our glossing gel. We also have a patent pending on our long wearing lacquer - ‘colour revolution’, and we’re always busy in our labs researching and developing our products. Worldwide, all the different geographical markets are at a different place in terms of evolution the US nail market has been going the longest - so we can predict the consumer’s reaction, and calculate how products will survive and grow/flourish/wilt/disappear. My advice to nail professionals across the globe, regardless of their business market or model is to continue with your education, and learn trends, learn products, stay ahead of your game, maintain education and you will maintain clientele. It’s also imperative to stay with quality products. Our correction gel is great for example. Put a layer on and then an LED/UV light - and it gives you an extra coating for strength and appearance. It can be used on its own, it’s basically like a rubberised gel. Technicians can offer it as an add-on service which is very easy and very profitable.” At Nailympia this year Alisha judged acrylic tip and overlay and acrylic sculpture, “I thought everyone was wonderful! Almost everyone finished, and there were 10 or maybe even 15 amazing sets. I really admire Alex Fox of Nailympia - her passion is contagious, and

she dedicates herself completely to the competition. The competition inspires people all over the world, which shows her passion is working.” Last but not least at Olympia this year, and probably fittingly to finish, given the real sense of zeal around educational endeavours that all the professionals I spoke to held, I sat down to chat with Louella Belle’s educational guru Jacqui O’Sullivan. Jacqui, has established herself as a teaching and motivational expert, and revealed that her favourite aspect about her current position is being able to inspire people, and give them a career and a job. Her job is full of variety one day she can find herself in a luxury spa, the next in a college classroom, but she explained that a good beauty professional, regardless of their circumstances, is someone willing to learn, who is qualified to do what they do. “Every day is a school day, and professionals must change with the times. Nowadays there are more specialised qualifications and more technical diplomas for nail technicians, which kind of harks back to 10/15 years ago. It used to be a course you worked through, then an exam at the end. Then the system opted more for continual assessments, and now it’s a mixture of both really. I think gel polish and gel art education will continue to grow. New standards within colleges are looking more at chemical knowledge, health and safety etc. too.” When I questioned Jacqui about fashion and fads she said, “Trend-wise everyone is into chrome nails currently, and I think that will remain popular for a while, after all, people said gel polish wouldn’t be as success because it would stay on too long! I always use gel polish.” Like Katharin, Alisha, Taylor, and Morgan, Jacqui was most passionate about training and looking forward to the future of the industry. “How can salons motivate staff? By training, by getting them educated so they know what they are doing and give them time to practice. Salons expect too much too quickly and often lack foresight. They should be looking towards the long term. If you’re opening your own salon it’s really important you do your research - know your area, know what clientele you want to get. Whether it’s Manchester or London what type of salon is it and how will you market yourself? Where will you be in the food nail chain?” It seems to be the case that for the successful beauty professionals at Olympia, education is not preparation for life, but rather life itself. No-one I interviewed to was able to tell me of hobbies or downtime that didn’t involve their job, or a love of travelling. It was inspiring and refreshing to see experts within an industry which can, upon occasion, be considered to many outsiders as superficial and unskilled speak so evangelically about education and personal growth and development. I look forward to learning more next year. To book your place at Olympia 2017, and see more on this year’s show go to www.olympiabeauty.co.uk.

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#shaba 2016

H It’s the biggest night of the year for the hair and beauty industry in Scotland, with over 500 guests flocking to the Radisson Blu in Glasgow to find out who the big winners would be at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards 2016.

14 | SalonNV Magazine

osted by the utterly charming and out-of-this-world handsome George Lamb and ably assisted by the drop-dead-gorgeous Josie Smith, it was a truly special occasion, with everyone dolled up to the nines - the men in tuxes and the women in their most extravagant dresses – as everyone enjoyed a four-course gourmet meal and dove into their goodie bags, supplied by the likes of Kiehl’s and Hair & Beauty World, before the winners were announced, as the Radisson ballroom glittered under the lights. An introduction from SalonNV and SHABA founder Joanne Reid kicked-off the night, praising the creativity and passion from across the country that has helped make the industry in Scotland such a positive influence around the world. As the night turned to the moment everyone in the room had been waiting for – the prizes – a host of celebrity names from both the hair and beauty industry and beyond were on stage to hand them out. Calum Best had all the girls (and some of the guys!) eating out the palm of his hand, posing for selfies all night as well as giving out an award, while Miss Great Britain Dionne Robertson was the epitome of elegance and class, even bringing her mum as her date! With the barbering categories bigger than ever, all the top names in male grooming were out on force, with Simon Shaw of Wahl and Adam Sloan of the Men’s Hair Federation among the attendees. The excitement in the room was palpable as the winners collected their awards, with their speeches conveying their delight

and pride at coming out on top on such a momentous night. With 30 awards handed out there was plenty of joy and a few tears from the best hair and beauty talent in Scotland, but the biggest prize was reserved for someone special indeed. The Lifetime Achievement award was presented to the legendary Philip Bell of Ishoka Hair and Beauty. Already crowned Scottish Hairdresser of the Year three times, with his first win coming back in 1998, Philip’s career has been one of constant innovation and success, making him a more than deserving winner of this prestigious award. It was inspiring for the countless hairdressers in the audience who have admired his work over the decades to hear him speak and get a chance to talk personally with such a great talent. When the gongs had been handed out it was just time for the night to begin! The X Factor star Seann Miley Moore got the whole crowd partying the night away on the dance floor with a medley of hits from his time on the show and beyond. He was quite the showman! After leaving the Radisson, there was still plenty more fun to be had as the after-party began at the Grosvenor Riverboat casino with some hardy folk keeping the party spirit alive until 6am! The success of SHABA 2016 means the stage has well and truly been set to make 2017 even bigger and better as the appetite is clearly there from the Scottish health and beauty professionals who live for a good night out, as well as providing a top quality service! We’ll see you next year!

winners2 BEST LASH ARTIST

BEST COLOURIST

BEST BROW ARTIST

SPONSORED BY FIT FOR VIKINGS

BEST BEAUTY SALON

BEST NAIL BAR

Curley’s Barbers, Shawlands

Soprano Ice, Edinburgh

Bonnie Quines, Broxburn

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 15

#shaba 2016

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www.SalonNV.co.uk | 17

SALON INTERNATIONAL Sassoon – Salon Live

The hair and beauty world brought the full force of its talent to the Excel in London for Salon International 2016. Thousands of people attended over the weekend, drinking in the atmosphere as the biggest companies and most talented individuals in the industry showcased what they have to offer for the year ahead. Fudge Professional, Wahl UK, REM, OSMO, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, the Hair Journal, and the MHFed had some of the biggest and busiest stands of the show, constantly surrounded by a bevy of inspired stylists or eager students, lapping up the presentations and giveaways. The cavernous room was wall to wall, or rather, stage to stage, with famous stylists, from Mazella & Palmer on one to Akin Konizi on another. It was almost impossible to see everyone you wanted as the calibre of professionals on show was of such a high standard. Some of the highlights of the show included Wahl UK announcing Gary Hooker and Michael Young, better known, of course, as Hooker & Young, as their new Creative Directors. A great achievement for the north east power couple who we spoke with in issue six. While at the event we spoke with The X Factor hairdresser Jamie Stevens who was having a year off from exhibiting at Salon International and instead got to watch as his protégé Matthew Cahill was crowned Hairdressers Journal Rising Star 2016. From meeting when Matthew was a member of Kingsland Road on The X Factor to working in Jamie’s salon and Matt’s clearly on the

| SalonNVMagazine Magazine 1818 | SalonNV

path to being as talented a stylist as his mentor. The other winners from the awards were Rick Roberts who won Afro Stylist of the Year, Tariq Howes for Men’s Afro Stylist of the Year, Roberto Silva for Extension Specialist of the Year, Alex Cook for Bridal Hairdresser of the Year, and Ky Wilson who claimed Barber of the Year. We also spoke with the legendary Trevor Sorbie, a man with decades of experience in the industry, who was at Salon International to watch his artistic team bring their creations to life on the HJ stage. The time the Queen asked him to be her hairdresser and getting a bus named after him in Glasgow were among the topics of our varied conversation! The Fellowship Hair stage was one of the biggest and busiest of the show, with a constant stream of top performers, while Fudge Professional lived up to their reputation as the hairstylists company of choice with free giveaways and expert advice. Salon International wasn’t just about the best of the best however, with Denman showcasing up and coming talent in their Stage Star competition. Four finalists who are set to become top names in the world of hair education showed off their models but the competition hasn’t ended there as all four still need to promote and sell themselves on social media before a winner is announced. So another out of this world show has come to end for one year, but the stage is set for 2017 to be even better than ever, with many people saying that Salon International was “back to its best” after a few less than stellar years. We can’t wait for the next one!

Matthew Cahill winner of the HJ Rising Star award

Hooker & Young unveiled their Graffiti collection www.SalonNV.co.uk | 19 www.SalonNV.co.uk | 19

SALON INTERNATIONAL

| SalonNVMagazine Magazine 2020 | SalonNV

Toni&Guy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Salon Live

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When Jo Met Jo As one of the most successful businesswomen in Britain, Jo Malone has inspired countless entrepreneurs to follow in her footsteps. With a new brand, Jo Loves, and a just released autobiography that chronicles her business success and personal battles, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s set to influence a whole new generation. SalonNV editor Jo Reid met with the iconic perfumier to discuss her comeback.

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fter an enforced absence of five years from the industry due to an agreement when she stepped down from her previous brand, Jo is back with a bang with Jo Loves. It might surprise some people that Jo would go back into the beauty industry after becoming a financial success and taking on a host of other projects during her break including the TV show High Street Dreams, but it was a matter of following her heart. “I was just miserable not creating fragrance,” Jo reflects when we meet up in Edinburgh to discuss her return to the line of work that made her a household name. “It’s the one thing I can do really brilliantly and I got to the point where I thought I’m too young to sit here and think what if? And I’m too old really to start something from scratch – I thought about making wine, so I thought I’d buy a vineyard, and I thought about building a hotel because I’m very fussy in hotels so thought I’d be quite good at that. “But, ultimately, what I really, really, love doing and what I’m good at is creating fragrance so I decided I’d give it one more shot. I’d give it a year and if within a year I couldn’t cut it then I would back out – but here we are.” Our interview is actually six years, to the day, that Jo started putting her plan into motion for Jo Loves and with the brand only really beginning to find its feet, she admits it has been harder than she thought. “Yes, much harder! Nobody knew that I had left [Jo Malone London] so that was the biggest mountain to climb. And it was just a different world. I wasn’t frightened of the

creativity or of all the things that go with it, it was people not realising that I was the person and that I was no longer part of the brand. I didn’t want to cause any harm to the other brand either because I still loved it. “The great thing is you evolve in your creativity whether you continue to stay with what you’ve built or you move off and do other things. Business is not a life sentence, it’s something you should enjoy doing but I wanted to do it differently.” While Jo Loves has all the trademarks we’ve come to expect from Jo – fantastic fragrances, scented candles, and a full bath and body range – it’s the innovations that truly set it apart from everything that has come before. On the very street where Jo first started working in a florist, Jo Loves has set up its first location offering “tapas for the nose” with four courses of scents, and a candle cocktail bar where customers become mixologists bringing their ideal candle to life. For Jo, memories and fragrances are so closely entwined that even her book is scented in her favourite from the Jo Loves range – Pomelo. The nose that has made Jo the most sought after perfumer in the UK is in part because of synaesthesia, a condition that means all her senses translate back into smell. Jo says: “My head’s like a little library and I collect all these notes. When I’m putting fragrances together I see it and I see the holes in the fragrance so I go into the library and see what it needs.“I thought everyone could smell like that because when you’re a child you don’t realise what you have and it’s not until years on that I thought ‘Well actually, this is really different, this is quirky and I kind of like it.’”

Pomelo, the scent that marks Jo’s autobiography

Continuing to innovate and establish new brands at this stage in her career is just part of Jo’s incredible life story that has seen her become one of the biggest names on the high street, honoured as an MBE, and beat cancer. Naturally, writing her autobiography was an emotional experience.

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“I put it down twice,” Jo admits. “I’ve been asked for a long time to write an autobiography and I didn’t feel ready, I didn’t feel it was the right time. Then when you unpack your memories nothing comes out in order - everybody is like that. So you unpack this trunk in your head and then you suddenly think ‘Oh my God, I remember that and I remember that’. “What happens is you go below the subconscious into your deep unconscious mind and your memories start to come to the surface and there’s a couple of things that I would rather have forgotten, just like anybody in their life, so I felt ‘Oh I’m not sure if I want to go there’ so I put it down. Then I just thought ‘No I’m going to do this’, I felt ready to do it. “My voice is so strong in it and it’s also a thank you and a love letter to all the people that have helped me get here, so it’s a really special thing to do and I’m really so proud and so glad I’ve done it. I think when people see the book they will see who I am. Everyone thinks they know Jo Malone but they will really hear my voice and understand why I came back, why I am the way I am, why I push boundaries, why I feel so passionately, and why I speak so strongly about things.” Jo’s strength of will and fortitude has seen her through many tough times in her life, as well as helping her succeed in business, and she’s never ran from a challenge, instead choosing to face them head on. “I think you always have three choices in life, no matter what happens to you,” she says. “In any situation that heads your way you can either accept the situation as it is, you can change the situation, or you have to change the way you look at it. You empower yourself with those as no matter what happens you’ve always got those three choices. “All through my life I’ve had to, at one point or another, pick one of those. When you are starting out in a business you have to work out: is this a hobby? Is this a business to support my family? Or is this something that I really believe can be global? Each one can be right if it’s right for you as a person – lots of people have businesses to support their families but they don’t really want to take it any further than that and there are some brands who then go and build much more powerful, global brands. So it’s important to figure out who you are in the beginning and then to really look at the passion that you have for your business.

“What I’d say is to really respect creativity. Allow it to take you to scary places. Have the discipline in place so you can run a business but don’t be frightened of creativity whispering in your ear and making you wander over there because sometimes that’s the product. “For instance, sometimes I think of lovely Shaun [Pulfrey] who created the Tangle Teezer. He used to do my hair, Shaun, and I remember him saying one day ‘I’ve got this idea Jo, it’s about this brush’ and look, that man changed the world with that. That idea came from him standing and brushing hair and he had knock back after knock back after knock back, and now it’s sold all over the world. That’s where resilience comes in with passion and creativity. He’s a perfect example of all three.” With Jo Loves beginning to make waves globally, with a large presence at Emirates’ duty free and stores planned across the world in China, Hong Kong, the Americas, and many more locations, Jo will need her resilience, passion, and creativity in spades to make the brand another great success, but she believes her wealth of experience will hold her in good stead. Jo says: “I think it’s given me a different perspective and I think I’m much braver now than I was when I first started and I really trust my instincts. Whereas when I was much younger I was a whole heap of naivety but actually naivety is a really good thing as you jump right in and then you’re swimming thinking ‘Ahh!’ but, at the end of the day I would rather be a little frightened than stand still and be so safe that I never go anywhere.” No one can accuse Jo of taking the easy choice, and we’re all delighted to see her back where she belongs. You can read all about Jo’s journey in Jo Malone: My Story which is out now at Amazon.co.uk and all good bookshops.

24 | SalonNV Magazine

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NovaLash Christmas Gift Set

PRO DU C T

All eyes will be on you with this stocking filler gift set from NovaLash, featuring three of their most popular eye-perfecting products including water soluble mascara, cleanLASH – 3 in 1 cleanser, conditioner and make-up remover pads, and the brand new LASHwand. £22 + VAT – novalash.com

R+Co Range R+Co have added to their enviable product range with four new products that give your hair the ultimate in comfort and luxury from start to finish. The Palm Springs Pre-Shampoo Treatment Mask, Cactus Texturising Shampoo, High Dive Moisture and Shine Crème, and the Grid Structural Hold Setting Spray is the full package.

randco.com

Balmain Ceramic Curling Irons Designed to allow professional stylists to give their clients even bouncier and shinier curls, the ceramic barrel technology with even heat distribution eliminates the damaging hot spots found with other irons. So you get the ideal result every time. Available in 32mm and 38mm £99.95 – balmainhair.com

Waterman’s Hair Grow Me Shampoo & Conditioner These products have been making a stir across the web, clocking in as an Amazon best seller as customers rave about the results. Not only is the shampoo designed to make your hair grow it’s made to help with underlying scalp problems and hair loss.

Use code 0 for SalonNV2 20% off!

£10 – watermanshair.com

Kent Teezall Their an old hand in the world of brushes but Kent are more than capable of keeping up with the times with this new detangling brush. Suitable for all hair types, including long, short, and even extensions the Teezall painlessly smoothing out the roughest tangles. And what about that cool ladybird design?! £7 - kentbrushes.com

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 26 | SalonNV Magazine

Kure Bazaar Glitter Nail Polish Wow, perfect for adding some festive razzle and dazzle to your Christmas outfit, this range of 16 high-impact and multi-tonal glitter nail polishes from Kure Bazaar can be layered over a classic nail colour or used to top the nail with sparkles to make your nails pop! £15 – kurebazaar.com

This wonderfully versatile oils works brilliantly on frizzy, thick, and difficult or over styled hair, with just a few drops smoothing and softening even the most weak and tired hair. It’ll leave your hair looking shiny and nourished.

P R O D U C T

Gielly Green Argan Rescue

£22 – giellygreen.co.uk

ghd Electric Pink Platinum Styler In support of Breast Cancer Now, the ghd Platinum Styler has had a makeover. It’s still got the same tri-zone technology to maintain a safer-for-hair heat from root to tip but now £10 from the sale of every product goes to support breast cancer research.

£165 – ghdhair.com

Liz Earle Shampoo With West African shea butter, natural source vitamin E, shineboosting apple and orange extracts plus naturally derived cleansers, this shampoo gently cleans without stripping to leave hair soft, shiny, and smooth. £10 – uk.lizearle.com

Gold Class Brush Unite Detangler With October marking Breat Cancer Awareness Month, Unite are making the charity campaign by selling their Detangler brush with a free one ounce, travel size 7 Seconds spray conditioner, with all the profits being donated to charity. A great duo for a great cause.

Designed to glide effortlessly over the hair extension bonds whilst reaching the roots to clean and evenly distribute the natural oils, this brush is ideal for detangling mid-length and long hair. It also comes in a travel-sized version for £25.

£28 – inanch.com

£13.90 – unitehair.co.uk

Pamela Docherty Bridal Hair Specialist, Colour Technician | Asteria Bridal This month we had a fabulous gifting suite in out salon for visiting celebrity guests of Fake Bake UK. I was gifted lots of amazing products and tools and have included my favourites in this month’s column. Thank you so much to all brands who gifted me so kindly, it was unexpected and much appreciated. Pamela Docherty has over 20 years of experience as a hairdresser and as well as being one of Scotland’s leading bridal hair specialists, she is a stylist to the stars. Internationally trained, she has worked alongside brands including Wella and Patrick Cameron. Pamela’s work has taken her to runways and events around the globe. From presenting models at the iconic TrendVision finals, to being crowned a Best of British hairdresser, she continues to be recognised for her creativity and expert eye.

HAIRENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 27

PRO DU C T

Foxy Hair Extensions Ethically sourced, hand-picked, and inspected at their quality control factory to ensure it’s the best Double Down, cuticle correct hair on the market. These 100% Human Remy Pre Bonded Flat Tip hair extensions are amazing quality for an attractive price. £34.99 – foxyhairextensions.net

Balmain Catwalk Ponytail Developed by backstage stylists, this is considered the ultimate fashion show secret. These amazing ultra-long ponytails have been spotted on the fashion catwalk numerous times and are one of the biggest hairstyle trends of the year. £54.50 – www.balmainhair.com

Beauty Works Celebrity Choice Weft hair extensions made of 120g of loose double drawn hair, giving your clients a generous amount of hair to result in full and natural looking hair extensions. Reusable for multiple salon applications, this remy hair can be reapplied and will last many months.

£134.99 – www.beautyworksonline.com

Dirty Looks Full Head Ombre Hair Extensions Set Once, twice, three times amazing! Each of these extensions contains seven triple-layered wefts, making this a full head of thick and luxurious hair. With five shades you’ll find the perfect ombre hairstyle to suit you. £100 – dirtylooks.com

Zen Ultimate Series One of the most desired and sought-after extension brands in the UK, Zen Ultimate Series is defined by the use of premium baby cuticle hair woven into each extension. Guaranteed to remain tangle-free and exceptionally soft and shiny for a whole year of use. £80+ – zenhair.co

Hair ExtensionsENVY 28 | SalonNV Magazine

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www.SalonNV.co.uk | 29

PRO DU C T

Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Facial Oil This ultra-lightweight oil hydrates, nourishes, and soothes dry/ dehydrated skin to bring back radiance in dull, tired looking skin. A super hydrating and nourishing plant oil blend brightens dull skin and it can be used as a massage medium to rejuvenate tired and ageing skin.

£71 – imageskincare.com

Airbase Lash Extend & Long Wear

Samaya Vata Range With three different ranges depending on your skin-type, Samaya is certainly thorough. For Vatas, with delicate and dry skin, this range has a Hydrating Cleanser, Anti-Ageing Cream, and Anti-Ageing Treatment that will keep your skin feeling at its best. Also check out the Pitta and Kapha ranges.

Two mascaras that make your lashes the star of the show. Choose Lash Extend for stronger, longer lashes in a flash, perfect for daily wear. Long Wear gives a serious volume boost and is flakeresistant and tear-proof. £20 – airbasemakeup.com

£69-£89 – samayaayurveda.com

The Vintage Cosmetic Company Kitty False Eyelashes

XIP-Professional Platinum Passion Eyeshadow Collection

If you’re after lashes that are going to give you maximum impact then look no further than Kitty. Create a glamorous, smouldering look and look every inch the 50s pinup with these re-usable synthetic lashes.

Contains 12 highly pigmented and carefully selected must-have shades, with colours carefully selected to create a range of looks from daytime freshness to evening XIP glam. Each eye shade is rich, intense, and long lasting

£6 – thevintagecosmeticcompany.com

£31.45 – xip-professional.com

BeautyLAB Black Diamond Night Cream A luxurious night cream offering both instant results and longterm benefits. Antioxidant vitamins A, C, E, and anti-ageing peptides work together to boost skin elasticity and soften the appearance of wrinkles, while rubies and rare black diamonds energise the skin.

£78 – beautylabinternational.com

Jennifer Peffer Jennifer Peffer Make-up | Asteria Bridal It’s been a busy month in our salon and I’ve been lucky enough to discover a couple of new brands that I’m really excited about! XIP Make Up and the Vintage Cosmetics Company - both brands sponsored the gifting suite in our salon which we hosted before the Fake Bake ball. Jennifer Peffer trained in make up artistry at London College of Fashion and Make Up Designory, Los Angeles. She is now based in Glasgow, where she has a make up studio in a five star salon; she is also half of bridal beauty partnership Asteria Bridal. In addition to bridal and make up clients, Jennifer specialises in beauty & fashion work and has had her make up featured in magazines such as Red, Marie Claire, Ok!, Tatler and the Scottish Wedding Directory. She is also the make up artist of choice for several celebrity clients when they are in Scotland.

Skin & MakeupENVY 30 | SalonNV Magazine

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We select the purest, first-grade, most advanced ingredients High grade formulas and high technology manufacturing Advanced delivery system for easy absorbency within the skin Outstanding immediate and cumulative results

Contact Pevonia today to discover more 0 1 4 4 9 7 2 7 0 0 0 | W W W. P E V O N I A . C O . U K

*5 week clinical study, 22 Women between the ages of 40-60, using the Pevonia lumafirmÂŽ Lift & Glow Eye Contour. Evaluation of safety and efficacy requirements performed by the Department of Drug Sciences, University of Pavia, Italy

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 31

PRO DU C T

Margaret Dabbs London Nail Polish Footlogix Exfoliating Pedi-Scrub

Themed around the names of English flowers, the 72 shades of polish take inspiration from the wonders of nature. The soft light pastel tones of springtime jasmine and apricot blossom contrast delightfully with the classic, rich wintertime reds of crimson rose and poinsettia.

Invigorate your legs and feet with this uniquely scented pediscrub that’s formulated with the highest grade organic seaweed, known for its anti-bacterial and regenerative properties. Optimally blended with micrograined natural pumice which is so gentle that it produces no adverse skin irritations - perfect for those of us with sensitive skin A truly efficacious alternative to the current, purely cosmetic pedi-scrub options.

£14 – margaretdabbs.co.uk

Essie Spa Hand Lotion A hand resurfacing system that is formulated with a nourishing blend of coriander oil and glycerine to help replenish skin’s moisture. It penetrates quickly to nourish dry skin and leave hands soft, smooth, and supply with no oily residue.

£29.90 – footlogix.com

£19.25 – www.nailpolishdirect.co.uk

CND Spa Soak The new CND Spa Soak contains soothing sea salt that will leave your client’s skin feeling nourished and moisturised. The Bright Citron soak is infused with active botanicals kaffir lime and honey and the Gardenia Woods soak has chamomile and sandalwood extracts to calm and purify. £19.98 – taylormadenails.co.uk

Morgan Taylor Wrapped in Glamour Holiday Collection Get into the festive spirit with six lacquer shades: a bronze and silver glitter, an array of red pearls, and a navy that is sure to have you slaying any Christmas party you attend this season. Each colours serves to inspire feelings of enjoy right into the New Year. £4.95 – louellabelle.co.uk

Nails, Hands & FeetENVY 32 | SalonNV Magazine

High Definition Nail Polish Available exclusively in salons that have passed the High Definition Nails education, this range of nail polish is part of the new own-branded salon nails system. Once you’ve passed you’ll be able to offer your clients a high quality treatment finished with a range of colours – like this Nilam Red. If you’re currently only offering brows, it’s the perfect time to expand your repertoire

Beautyinhighdefinition.com

The easy to use mug can be placed straight into the microwave to melt into a skin-friendly, strip less, hot wax treatment. Suitable for all facial waxing including brows, nostrils, ears, and upper lip so is a convenient addition to any fast paced salon.

P R O D U C T

Salon System JUST WAX Microwaveable Brow Wax

£4.95 + VAT – salonsystem.com

Sienna-X Spray Tan Solution Give your clients a sun kissed light-medium colour while also giving them the benefits of anti-ageing ingredients such as Q10 with this 8.5% Spray Tan Solution. Develops fully after eight hours to leave your customers with a beautiful, natural looking glow. £47.95 + VAT – sienna-x.co.uk

Exuviance Body Polishing Masque From the spa-inspired, dermatologist-developed skincare line Exuviance comes this Body Polishing Masque designed to work well for those with sensitive skin while still containing potent, high-tech ingredients. Ideal for rehydrating and smoothing skin after a summer of sunbathing or fake tanning.

£16.49 + VAT = facethefuture.co.uk

Crystal Clear Velvet Skin A non-greasy body moisturiser created to lightly exfoliate whilst intensely moisturising and firming. The formula, rich in anti-ageing actives and essential oils, absorbs quickly leaving skin instantly silky, smooth, and supple. £39.99 – crystalclear.co.uk

MoroccanTan Infused with organic argan oil to soften and moisturise the skin so you get a flawless, streak-free tan thanks to MoroccanTan’s exclusive spray tanning formula of triple enhanced bronzers and moisture lock. Suitable for all skin types, it dries in just two hours. £44.99 – salon-services.com

Lycon SoBerry Delicious With its delicious strawberry scent and spectacular, sparkling Micro Mica, SoBerry Deliecious strip wax removes hair quickly and gently, with no skin drag. Also versatile enough that they can be heated directly in a LycoPro Duo heater or, if you’re in a rush, start it off in the microwave! £22.50 - Lyconuk.com

Body, Tanning & WaxingENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 33

Vezzosi Marylin Nails

PRO DU C T

This beautifully designed wooden nail station is the latest edition to the Vezzozi range. This piece piece wouldn’t look out of place in an elegant dining room and will add style to any beauty salon or nail bar.

£1,669 – salon-services.com

Aura Allure Spray Tanning System The gorgeous black glossy finish accentuated by a metallic bronze band around its circumference and smooth round corners gives this a sleek, contemporary look. Everything about this is designed to perfection, allowing for maximum functionality with minimal fuss. £239.99 – suntana.com

2-in-1 Hot Towel Warmer and Steriliser Automatic temperature control and overheating protection are equipped, as well as an ultraviolet sterilisation/disinfection function to keep your towels spick and span. Once the temperature of the internal chamber has been reached, automatic heat preservation starts up. £245.55 – diamondnailsupplies.com

Takara Belmont RS Elite Innovative high-tech shampoo equipment at its best. Designed to create a luxurious shiatsu shampoo massage experience, the neck cushion first snugly around all neck sizes, immediately putting clients in a blissful state of mind and stylists will love the deep, roomy, and slightly lower at the back than the front bowl. £2,995 – www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

REM Verona Spa Vanity Unit Complete with a mobile storage facility, the Verona Spa Vanity Unit offers style and elegance to any spa environment. The unit has ample storage, ceramic basin, and illuminated mirror and is available in over 20 different laminate finishes.

£2730 + VAT rem.co.uk

Furniture & EquipmentENVY 34 | SalonNV Magazine

P R O D U C T

Salon System Hydration + Lip and Eye Masks Tapping into the trend for facial masks, these two innovative products will provide your clients with a quick boost of hydration and radiance in the salon, targeting fine lines, wrinkles, and hydration, and also work as an at home pick-me-up treatment.

£3.95 + VAT – salonsystem.com

Nimue Anti-Ageing Essentials Gift Packs Two gift packs, one for the face and one for the eyes, that provide great value for money in the effort to keep yourself look your best. With an Anti-ageing Leaveon Mask, a Super Hydrating Serum, Eye Treatment, and Active Hand Repair for the face, and Anti-ageing Eye Cream, Eye Make-up Remover, and Collagen Eye Film for the eyes.

£19.50 - £24.37 – nimueskin.com

Purelogicol Anti Ageing Serum With gravity-control and micro-collagen peptides to help stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis to reduce wrinkles and facial contours, while soothing botanicals and powerful nano-vitamins F, A, C, and E are absorbed deeply to promote a youthful, radiant glow. £69 – purelogicol.com

Skin Accumax

Gold Collagen Defence Collagen is our main support in the fight against ageing and this tablet helps protect your skin from within. Its unique blend of 17 active ingredients is specifically formulated to enhance the skin’s ability to fight free radicals and maintain your young look.

This oral skincare supplement contains optimum levels of vitamins A, C, and E to support skin health in a form that’s easily absorbed. By taking Accumax you internally nourishing your skin over your whole body, not just where you apply creams.

£34.95 – beautytimetherapies.co.uk

£14.95 – gold-collagen.com

Detox, Wellbeing & Aesthetic BeautyENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 35

SA LON

DREAM HAIR

MARIE MCINTOSH RAMMINGER

Dream Hair had a big night at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards, taking home two of the four awards they were nominated for. Salon owner Marie Mcintosh Ramminger was the big winner, being crowned Female Stylist of the Year, topping off what has been a fantastic few years for the Arbroath stylist.

ith the salon going from strength to strength and her ‘Dream Team’ also sharing in award success, things couldn’t be going much better for Marie who is overcoming the pitfalls of operating in a small town (Arbroath has a population of barely 20,000) by concentrating on top quality training and incredible customer service, with the SHABAs being recognition of that success. “It was fantastic to win,” Marie tells us. “And to be rewarded for all of the hard work and love I put into my work is overwhelming, especially when you’re up against some of the top dogs in the industry. To be standing in the salon working till 9-10 most nights shows the determination and ambition I have for not only me but for Dream Hair.” The determination and ambition it took to win at SHABA was recognised far and wide across Scotland, with messages of support and praise pouring in from across the country and from some illustrious names including the Depute Provost of Angus and even the First Minister of Scotland Nicola Sturgeon! However, success hasn’t been an overnight

36 | SalonNV Magazine

thing for Marie who has spent five years building Dream Hair into what it is today, crafting her team and overcoming many obstacles including being locked out of work following a legal dispute with a former employer. She told us: “Yes, I was unfortunate to be taken to court over six years ago regarding a dispute with a former boss. I was the manager of his salon when I left after seven years due to a dispute over hours. After I left I was lucky to find employment elsewhere but he didn’t want me to work for a rival so took me to court.” This resulted in Marie and a fellow hairdresser unable to work in Arbroath for three months over Christmas. The worst possible time to be unemployed and with no possible chance of picking up any work as it simply wasn’t feasible to travel to a different town. It was an incident which was hard to take but Marie says it ultimately left her feeling stronger. “This was probably the biggest point in my career where I became full-on and even more determined and head strong in what I believed Marie Mcintosh Ramminger as a stylist and person should be more than ever.

With the amazing ongoing support from my parents and husband, Dream Hair was born.” It hasn’t been easy but with a lot of blood, sweat, and tears, Dream Hair has been an integral part of the Arbroath community, welcomed with open arms because of Marie and her team’s dedication, talent, and friendliness. It’s something Marie has worked hard to bring together, and she is extremely complimentary about her colleagues. “My team mean the world to me and it has taken me five years to find the perfect team,” she explains. “They all bring something very different to Dream Hair. They give me the drive and support to push myself and Dream Hair to the limit. We are all very close and they are all friends who I have the greatest respect for. “The great thing is they have all been trained by me from the start of their careers. They are as well respected as me in the salon and this makes me very proud. There are no egos in Dream Hair, just a fantastic team.” Training is a vital part of what Marie brings to Dream Hair, as well as bringing all her staff through herself, she has to ensure that the team and her are fully up-to-date with the latest styles, trends, and techniques – not something easily done when you are in a small town in northeast Scotland. Marie says: “Training is massive for me and my team are training constantly. I invest a lot of time and money into this for me and my team. I travelled this year to London for a training night with Bruce Masefield and Edward Darling from Sassoon, it was brilliant! We are a partner Sassoon Saloon and have been for four years now. We are very proud of this status.”

Partnering with Sassoon is pretty much a dream come true for Marie who counts UK Creative Director Bruce as one of her most inspiring figures in the industry, although she says that two times British Hairdresser of the Year Beverley C is her “all-time icon. A totally amazing stylist and business woman.” With the way Dream Hair has been going since 2011, it won’t be long before Marie is being spoken about in similar ways by the many people she’s inspired. As well as her SHABA award, Marie was also awarded an Arbroath Local Hero award for the charity endeavours of her and her team over the years. Not to mention Dream Hair currently being up for Angus Salon of the Year and Business of the Year.

“There are no egos at Dream Hair, just a fantastic team”

Part of what makes Marie such an inspiring and encouraging boss is the way she treats her staff, going the extra mile to ensure they are rewarded for everything they’ve done to put Dream Hair on the map. She says: “With it being the salon’s fifth birthday this year I really wanted to go all out and treated the team to a weekend in Liverpool at Aintree for The Grand National. A huge in-salon birthday party where the champagne flowed and gifts for everyone, sports cars, and a buffet. A fantastic day! Over the years I have learned a lot in hair, client service, how to run a business, but most of all how to treat people.” This year is set to end with a bang as Marie has organised a piper to come and play as they close the doors on Hogmanay, ready to make 2017 an even better year than this one – if that’s possible! For Marie it’s simple: “If you believe and work hard enough, anything is possible!”

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 37

SA LON

SOPR ANO ICE

Champagne on ice as Soprano win twice! Edinburgh beauty and aesthetic clinic Soprano Ice is celebrating after picking up two gongs at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards 2016, winning Best Beauty Salon and Best Beauty Therapist for Ria Henderson.

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t’s been an incredible year for owner Debbie Stewart who only moved Soprano Ice out of the backroom they started in and into new permanent premises on Bruntsfield St a little over 12 months ago. But by combining her own expertise with that of some handpicked colleagues, she’s quickly turned Soprano Ice into the must-go destination for people wanting to look and feel younger in the capital. That culminated with the two awards at SHABA, something Debbie wasn’t expecting to happen so quickly for her young salon. “Absolutely delighted to take two categories, but very shocked,” she admits. “I’m so happy for Ria, she’s been in the industry so long and worked so hard, but as a salon we haven’t been around for very long so I did get quite the shock! We worked hard over the past year and everything we created, everything we worked for, it paid off.” The work began back in 2013 when Debbie rented a small room at the back of a salon. Despite having no shop front and therefore no visibility to the public, with the help of marketing consultant Erica Douglas to boost their social media and online presence, Debbie began her journey by training up in the technology behind the Alma Soprano Ice Laser System to provide customers with a pain-free hair removal treatment. It was a bit of a change for Debbie who had previously been a nail artist but she threw herself into it wholeheartedly. “Originally it was just me and the machine, hoping it would develop into something,” she tells us about the first days. “You could see the want and the need was there. People wanted pain-free hair removal and even now people come up to me and say ‘there’s no such thing as pain free!’ I say ‘Come and see me, I’m not going

to tell you it’s pain free and then put an electric shock in you!’” With the state of the art technology in place, Debbie set about finding both the perfect location and the perfect team to supplement her work. That’s how the foundations of Soprano Ice as we know it now were laid, says Debbie. “When I saw the property come available in Bruntsfield I know there could be an opportunity there. I did think ‘Am I being too ambitious?’ as it’s a double front property with a basement downstairs. In my mind it could only work if I brought on professional people who would bring excellence.” To get the ball rolling and fill up the large space she had found herself with, Debbie turned to people she could trust. First stop being Lucia Pawlak, a semi-permanent make-up artist with whom joining together made sense for both parties. “I’d worked alongside Lucia in the place we were before. She’d just started doing semipermanent make-up and was building it up slowly but she was a young girl and didn’t have money to invest in marketing so wasn’t getting the exposure that she needed. Now she’s also trained in the laser which allows me to have a day-off when I need it, but she does that less and less now as she builds up a good client base in semi-permanent make-up.” Next to join was Ria, who had worked alongside Lucia in the past. But Debbie had a task on her hands to bring her on board. “Ria was unhappy where she was and wanted out of the beauty industry so I had a chat with her. I wanted to bring her in on the beauty side but also in the advanced treatments like the Elemis Biotec.” Debbie’s persuasiveness worked and Ria joined

the team to take care of the beauty side of the business, but they were still looking for a nail technician. Although Debbie herself was a fullytrained nail artist she had lost the passion for it and in the spirit of bringing experts together under the Soprano Ice umbrella, she reached out to Nataliya Al-ta’ai, a CND Education Ambassador and top nail guru, to take over the downstairs, turning it into a part-time nail clinic from Thursday – Sunday. Rounding off the top talent available to Soprano Ice customers is Dr David Jack, one of Harley Street’s premier aesthetic surgeons who holds a monthly clinic up in Edinburgh, with such great success that it will soon extended to two days. Clearly the demand for quality treatments is there, and Debbie believes she offers customers a level of service to match. “What I wanted to do was give clients a bit of luxury without having to go to a spa,” she explains. “When you get treatments you want to feel you’re getting a treatment. My philosophy is no client is ever rushed; for one hour treatments, we book about an hour and 15 minutes. Bring them into the clinic, have a consultation, and relax.” From experience, Debbie knows that not every place that offers treatments is quite so caring. She says: “I’ve been to some of the top spas in the world and recently I had to complain at Gleneagles. I had booked an hour and 20 minutes and I was out within an hour. Client satisfaction is the key. If we have an unhappy client then I’m doing something wrong. We use the Phorest salon booking system and we’re rarely if ever not five star. We’re all rated on what we do and I can’t see one area where we’ve had complaints. Touch wood! I can’t think of any client not being happy with the service and if

there was an issue I’d resolve it straight away; every client that comes through the door has to be treated well.” It’s that customer service that helped win Soprano Ice the SHABA for Best Beauty Salon, but even with a mystery shopper portion of the prize, Debbie didn’t feel the need to put on act for the judges or ask her staff to be on their best behaviour – “What you see is what you get with Soprano Ice”. For many people, beauty salons are simply where vain people go in a bid to look younger, perhaps spending more money than they should in the hope of holding on to their glory years. But Debbie believes the work she does is much, much more important than that. “I see it as life changing for people. One of my very first clients was a nurse in her 30s that had polycystic ovary syndrome which is mainly facial hair. I’m looking at this girl thinking she shaved it away when she told me ‘It’s not on my face, it’s on my back and my legs’ and showed me it. My jaw dropped. From the top of her shoulders to the bottom of her legs, all over her buttocks, was this black hair. “After her third session she went on holiday and it was the first time she could wear a bikini – normally she’d have to cover up.” There’s also the benefit of semi-permanent make-up to people undergoing cancer treatment and in particular for men who may struggle with drawing on eyebrows as it’s something they’ve never done before. The positives that Soprano Ice have given to their local community go far beyond simple aesthetic procedures and into making a real difference to the quality of life of their clients, and that’s why they are such deserving SHABA winners.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 39

Behind The Brand With Joe Coubrough, Unite distributor, Hair & Beauty World Director

At St. Judes, a trendy venue in Glasgow, over a hundred invited guests are listening intently as Tony White, Managing Director of the brand Unite, explains why they are the right choice for their salon.

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osting the event is Joe Coubrough, the man charged with making UNITE a success in Scotland. As Director of Hair & Beauty World, a trade store that’s quickly growing into a key marketplace for the industry, Joe has experience of bringing top brands and the best products into salons, but he’s more excited than ever to show everyone what Unite can do. Founded by world-renowned hair stylist Andrew Dale in 2003, Unite has quickly grown to become one of the most sought after brands in the hair and beauty world, famed for being created by a hairdresser, for hairdressers. Although massive in the United States of America and across the globe, it’s their first foray into the Scottish market, starting with the launch night attended by all the big salons from across the country. “It went very well,” Joe tells us. “The feedback we’ve had has been exceptional. Everyone came along, got some Prosecco, had some canapés, and watched some good hairdressing with no pressure to buy. This is what Unite is all about. It was set-up under the ethos to share ideas and to unite hairdressers.” Joe isn’t giving salons the hard sell with Unite. Instead he wants to let the brand’s policies speak for themselves. Its focus on education, on product quality, and its ethical

values speak volumes for the direction Unite wishes to go says Joe. “Unite has such a good reputation it’s a strong proposition for a salon to take on. Because one: the products work, and it ticks all the socially conscious boxes that need ticked. It’s an ethical brand that have promised to make sure that none of their products are ever tested on animals – they are actually PETA approved which is a very unique set of circumstances for a range of hair and beauty products and they are totally committed to that. “Tracey Charlton has just come on board, pulling together the education for the years ahead. A product is a product but every salon needs motivated, trained staff. They need people in to help them develop their presence and the only way to do that is education. You can have the best product in the world but without education you won’t get anywhere, so for me that’s the number one thing that’s floated my boat. All the boxes were ticked but where’s the education platform? “I think when you say ‘we’re going to have education’, that’s just talk. I’ve heard millions of people saying they’re going to do this and going to do that but it’s just talk and they end up with nothing. Every salon that comes on board with Unite, we send in one of the educators to give them a two-hour product session. That’s working with them,

not just talking about products but using the products in salon. Then that dovetails into an actual training plan where there’s a cutting course and other courses available that make a massive difference. Most salons are sole traders – they need help, they’re not big organisations.” Getting educators in to teach salons how to use the products is key to Joe’s plans for Unite, but he says it’s a plan made easier by Unite’s easy to digest range. “Unite as a brand is broken down into families, they’ve made it very simple to understand. They have a 7seconds system that has been a bit of a phenomenon with the hashtag #fallinlovein7seconds. It’s not about the products working in seven seconds, it’s that you make your mind up in seven seconds about whether you like a product, that’s where that came from. “Then you’ve got the daily systems; the shampoos and the conditioners. You’ve got the hybrid products and finish for dry hair. You’ve got a mix of products that are quite easy to navigate – it’s not an extensive range, it’s a concise range. For using it in the salon one product does a number of things. It’s not a one-trick-pony range. It’s fantastic value for many as the products in the range do multiple things.” As exclusive distributor of Unite in Scotland through Hair & Beauty World, Joe needs to juggle supplying salons with the brand and maintaining the exclusivity that comes with such a top name. Already in some major salons across the country, in some areas Unite will only be placed in one or two salons despite the demand but with 33 years in the industry, including working with brands such as L’Oreal and label.m, Joe understands how he needs to work with the salons to give both parties the relationship they want. “Any salon you go into they are working with the same issues – and it’s normally staff, getting the staff motivated. A product range doesn’t just tick the box it has to be the add-ons that help that salon to grow the business. I don’t want a salon to give me an order just to give me an order, I want to grow the business so we have a long-term relationship with that salon, working within their budget and plan, setting up for the future. “There’s no point in just setting up an order and sending them a bill, it’s up to me to take the brand on. I don’t want them to fail, I want them to be successful so it’s important it feels good for both parties, not just I’ve got an order and I’m happy. It makes me happy when they sell through a product and they’ve bought into the education and it doesn’t feel awkward – we’re working together as a partnership, it’s about growing business.” With plenty of salons already buying into the Unite philosophy with Joe, it seems safe to bet that Joe will be growing the Unite business for the foreseeable future.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 41

An Away Day for

Kay Kay Corbett

Stylist at award-winning Medusa Hair Group

in Edinburgh, has just embarked on a year-long whirlwind of learning as part of Wella’s Generation Now team. She’s going to keep SalonNV posted about what she’s up to throughout the year.

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ince hearing in July that I’d been selected for the Wella Generation NOW Team I’ve veered from ecstatic excitement to downright terror. GenNow is all about searching out budding stars and giving them the opportunity to realise their potential. Is that really me? For the first few weeks I kept expecting Corin Capsalis from Wella to call me up and say there’d been a mistake. I’ve always wanted to work in fashion. I started out in make-up, only taking up hairdressing to add an extra string to my bow, but I quickly got sucked into it and can’t imagine doing anything else – especially now I’ve got this opportunity to spend a year working with the best in the industry and so many chances to experience everything from presenting to session. Over the next 12 months Wella has promised to develop our technical and presentation skills so we can grow into confident, creative stylists behind the chair or backstage at the catwalks. At least that’s the plan. The first month has been a whirlwind. It started with a five-day boot camp in Manchester to help us gel as a team and get us started under the tutelage of some ace stylists. I think we are pretty lucky, because straight away the six of us got on brilliantly. There were some very late nights. But still we managed to make it for roll call every morning. Day one we got to crowd round Leonardo Rizzo and watch up close as he demoed an amazing cut. I kept obsessing about whether I’ll ever be able to present on stage as calmly as him. The next day started with practice miked up on stage, where I learned that I say ‘just’ and ‘soft’ way too often. Then we got to gaze over the shoulders of Robert Eaton as he took us through some simple but stunning colouring techniques, followed by a

hands-on session in the afternoon. Day three we worked through social networking tips before meeting with Wella’s PR expert, Emma Summersby. Day four hands on again, with a photographic session with Marc Antoni and photographer Kai Wan. My experience dressing hair for clients in Edinburgh has come in usefuwl; I work quickly and cleanly and have no fear of elaborate updos, but I was suddenly conscious that the camera picks up every flaw so you have aim for absolute perfection. My favourite day of all though, was day five, and not just because I’d soon be home with my cats. It was with Gary Gill of Emotive Hair who talked us through the history of our craft, a personal passion of mine, with a particular focus on men’s hair. He got me excited about gents for the first time. Within weeks of boot camp, we had our first stage gig, at Salon North, which was bang in the middle of London Fashion Week. So while prepping for Salon North we also had to brush up on our session skills to assist Darren Ambrose at the PPQ show. Being immersed in LFW even just briefly was hugely inspiring but it was New York Fashion Week that inspired my Salon North presentations, picking up on the Robert Cavalli Resort 70s boho look for one of my presentations and Nicholas K’s flirtation with the 1980s and Madonna for the second. We were helped out by fellow Scot, Charlie Taylor, who was one of the first solo women to win a British Hairdresser of the Year Award three times and make it into the Hall of Fame. She was great: patient, inspiring, and cool. Boot camp, two presentations at Salon North, and my first catwalk show for LFW is not a bad first month being part of the GenNow Team. I think I’m going to enjoy this year.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 43

Liz McKeon

BusinessNV

IS YOUR PRICING RIGHT?

Determining prices of services in your salon or spa must be based on a broad and thoughtful basis. It requires a basic understanding of both your financial and business goals. Price is one of the four major elements of a marketing mix. The right price should meet the requirement of the buyer and seller. If you hit the right price, your clients will be happy, your profits will be higher, and your bottom line will be healthy.

owever, setting the right price is one of the most difficult decisions to make when starting a business

or introducing a new service. Many salon owners make the mistake of setting up a

flawed pricing structure. As a result they find themselves working very hard for so little. 7 Tips in Setting Your Prices: 1. Keep your prices realistic

A realistic price is the price you set after

taking into consideration various factors: • The direction of your business. • Your cost structure and expenses. • Your resources and financial goals. Avoid setting your prices on ‘what every

other salon is charging’. What is right for

your competitors may not be right for your salon. After all, their goals and strategies

may be different from yours. Research your

competition and see what they are charging,

but do not copy their pricing structure just to charge what everybody else is charging. Set your prices based on your own situation.

margin. Allow your business to increase your prices at least once a year, but give your clients sufficient warning about the price increase. Once you’ve established your prices, remember to constantly monitor operating costs to ensure profit.

owners, particularly new entrants into the

4. Include the value of your time in your pricing Avoid committing the mistake of not including a salary for yourself – your time is valuable and you need to include it when calculating your prices.

a low price may signal a low quality service.

5. Clients are not always looking for the lowest price Price is not always the topmost concern of clients. There are many clients who do not mind paying higher prices, particularly if they know they are purchasing exclusivity or your salon is located in a high-end or convenient location. Many clients are willing to pay premium prices for quality service, speedy delivery, helpful and friendly customer service, excellent product knowledge, and advice.

7. Use discounts with care

6. Price low, but smart A common pricing strategy for small salon

will determine the profit margins for your

sector is to price low just to get the work.

By pricing low, the aim is to penetrate the market and get as much repeat business.

However, be aware that pricing low can have

adverse repercussions on your business. First, Second, it may be difficult to raise prices later on once clients are accustomed to your low

prices. Third, your start-up business is yet to

develop economies of scale that makes it hard to compete on price.

Offering discounts is a good strategy for

encouraging repeat sales, bundling sales, and early payment from clients. You can

use discounts to stimulate demand for your

products and services during the down times. Discounts are great to clear out stock that has become outdated. Just make sure you

don’t give out the wrong signal or give the

impression that your business is in difficulty. Pricing is important for several reasons – it salon, and in the end, your own salary!

2. Cover all costs

The price of each service should cover the cost associated with it, its contribution to

overheads, and profit. A successful strategy is one that results in the most pounds after all

the costs have been met. Be careful of setting your prices too low, while it may attract a

large sales volume, you may not be making

enough revenue to cover the costs of selling the service. If you set your prices too

high, your sales volume may be so low you can’t cover operating costs.

3. Check your prices against inflation

Your prices must keep up with

inflation. Inflation increases your

cost of doing business, with the

prices of your materials, overheads,

and other costs increasing. If you

maintain your prices despite rising

inflation, you will erode your profit Liz McKeon is a Business Coach and Trainer, specializing in the Beauty Industry. We are running a management programme on the 4th, 5th, 6th of July in Swords Co. Dublin. For full information about this programme and other events check out www.lizmckeon.com or call 00353 86 386 1243

44 | SalonNV Magazine

BusinessNV

Emil Mcmahon

THE CARETAKER

COMPLICATED COMMISSION CAUSES CONFUSION

remember it well, actually what I remember is being bamboozled by targets and commission. My commission structure as a stylist was so confusing that I never quite managed to work it out. If I did X amount of clients in a week I would receive commission of Y based on the revenue generated from their services after tax and cost of goods were removed. If I sold X of retail in a week I would receive Y in commission after tax and ‘on costs’ had been removed from the total left after the cost of goods had been deducted. (See what I mean about confusing). Unfortunately it seems that commission structures haven’t simplified much since those days in the 80s when I was working in a salon. Salon teams still need a degree in mathematics to work out their potential additional income from achieving and surpassing their targets. Of course there are some salons that have simplistic, and engaging systems for staff to work with, this makes the team keen to smash targets in a productive and professional way, but these salons tend to be the exception to the rule. I recently delivered a training session in ‘Tickety Boo’, a trendy salon in Whitley Bay, a seaside town not far from Newcastle, and the owners were discussing how retail and up-selling of services needs to inspire the team to own their targets that they have had set. Joanne, one of the owners asked me to cover off the simple fact that the more the stylists take, the more they make, and I had one of those Eureka moments! ‘Take & Make’ became a section of my training

session and it simplified the concept of targets and rewards. Yes the salon still sets targets, yes there are some codicils that are part of the commission structure, but the bottom

line is simple, the more you take, the more

you make! For me it was a genius approach to share with the team the facts about how commission payments are worked out.

Helping stylists understand that up-selling

helps them and the salon together makes for a more honest and open approach to that time old issue… money! Sometimes hairdressers think that a retail sale or an up-sell of colour just feathers the bosses nest that little bit more

leaving very little for them, making the idea of trying to achieve a target not

so important. But transparency about the on costs, VAT, cost of goods etc can

help create a better understanding of the realities of owning a business and the financial burdens it can carry.

“ There are some salons that

have simplistic and engaging

systems for staff to work with, this makes the team keen to

smash targets in a productive and professional way”

Make your salon commission structure as easy as

possible, share the reasons behind it with your team so that they are fully aware of everything attached and associated to it and get them to start thinking ‘Take & Make’.

Instead of a complicated and confusing structure

that no one fully understands and doesn’t fully

engage with, make it simplistic, achievable (with

a little stretch of course), and make it work for the team, for the salon, and for you.

Emil McMahon offers training on all aspects of customer interaction and social media. For more details visit www.emilthecaretaker.com or email emil_mcm@hotmail.com www.SalonNV.co.uk | 45

16175 Estetica Magazine DPS Advert aw_Layout 1 25/08/2016 15:45 Page 1

WE ARE LOOKING FOR INSPIRED, MOTIVATED AND TALENTED HAIRDRESSERS

“Project X is a once in a lifetime opportunity for anyone in our industry. To be asked to mentor and help the Team was fantastic and I loved every minute of being part of their journey. This programme really does produce some truly inspiring hairdressers” JAMIE STEVENS

46 | SalonNV Magazine

“Colour Project has been the best course I have ever participated in! I would recommend anyone to get involved whatever your level of experience. Amazing training, inspirational mentors and the most amazing year” JADE MILES, COLOUR PROJECT 2015

A once-in-a-lifetime experience! The Fellowship for British Hairdressing are looking for 12 talented individuals who are looking to take the next step in hairdressing. Project X is a year full of amazing courses and opportunities to interact with some of the biggest names in British hairdressing. This is your chance to shine!

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing brings you the ULTIMATE finishing school for colour education. Colour Project is a chance to develop your skills with the industry’s world renowned colour experts as they share their unique colour application techniques, creativity and vision throughout the year long calendar.

WHEN CAN YOU APPLY? APPLICATIONS OPEN MONDAY 31ST OCTOBER FULL DETAILS AT WWW.FELLOWSHIPHAIR.COM. TO FIND OUT MORE CONTACT FREYA ON FREYA@FELLOWSHIPHAIR.COM

COLOUR PROJECT & PROJECT X FINALE EVENING

SAVE THE DATE: MONDAY 14TH NOVEMBER

Get an insight into what this year’s Colour Project and Project X Teams have been up to in this incredible evening showcasing all their skills. Always promises to be an inspirational evening and we invite you to come along. Perfect for those wanting to be part of the journey next year. Reserve your place now freya@fellowshiphair.com

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 47

M AT T HEW CURT IS H A IR SA LON

ighly ambitious hairstylist Matthew Curtis has made his next move in the world of luxury hair salons by opening within the prestigious hotel, Rosewood London on High Holborn just moments away from Covent Garden in London. After the success of his standalone award-winning flasgship hair salon in Stratford Upon Avon and award-nominated hair retreat in Hoar Cross Hall Spa in Staffordshire, Matthew has upped his game with the new boutique salon and in-room styling experience concept at the ultra-luxury hotel. Matthew’s love of creating new wearable looks for his fashion and salon clients is reflected in the new salon concept and unifies hair with a luxurious hotel experience. Taking inspiration from the Orient Express and the decadence of high living, guests will be able to experience five-star treatments within Rosewood London’s renowned Sense spa. The salon will offer expert stylists and professional colourists skilled in all aspects of hairdressing; from

cutting and colouring to waving, straightening, and blow-drying. Each treatment will start with a thorough consultation, ensuring clients are confident that they will leave looking their best and feeling transformed. For the ultimate in privacy and luxury hairstyling, the indulgent Matthew Curtis in-room styling experience is a must. With a uniquely adapted vintage leather trunk, all the modern eements of a hair salon are incorporated into a portable styling station so hotel guests can request personal hair appointments without leaving their room. As well as featuring heavenly hair spa treatments, the new Matthew Curtis hair salon will also feature a luxury blow-dry menu where guests can have their hair styled in the latest trends from the catwalks. Matthew said: “The new boutique hair salon Rosewood London is about unifying hair with the spa experience. Opening hours: Monday to Sunday – 9am to 9pm For bookings call: 0203 747 8830

252 H igh Holb or n, London, WC1V 7 E N 48 | SalonNV Magazine

BRYSON & H A R E

n the Kingdom of Fife, where once there was a florist there is now an in-demand little salon called Bryson & Hare. More than just a hairdresser it has become a social hub for the clientele of owner Cheryl Bryson, with a café style atmosphere that exudes warmth and community for patrons. Brought together for a sum of £27,000 in just three months by a local company ADDON Developments who designed the layout and organised the rest of the trades to create the look. The front of the salon has a sleek, industrial feel which leads through to a café/ courtyard inspired waiting lounge. The cream and black star print floor tiles give the lounge a vintage Spanish look, with light flooding in from the large windows at the front of the salon to make the area feel spacious and bright. Combined with the large mirrors in the salon, it creates a fantastic atmosphere and dream location for colourists. Cheryl also stocks a gallery of prints from local artists We are Amused, with both companies benefitting from

the exchange of ideas and creativity. Another statement piece in the salon is the black spider chandelier in the front salon, seeming to radiate like the tripods in War of the Worlds, it is both a perfect instrument for lighting the stylists’ work and strengthens the look of the whole salon. To complete the individual look of the salon, bespoke furniture is dotted throughout and adding to the Spanish vibe, sitting comfortably alongside the top of the range REM styling chairs and backwashes and other selected furniture from Rockett St George and Habitat. Product wise, Bryson & Hare use fellow Scot Howard McLaren, former creative director of Toni & Guy and Bumble& Bumble’s range R+Co to give their clients the best possible experience as well as L’Oreal. For bespoke services and a creatively designed salon with a personal touch throughout, there’s not many better than Bryson & Hair. For bookings call: 01592 265294

28 Hu nte r St , K i rkc aldy K Y1 1E D

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 49

WINTER COLOUR TRENDS 2016 Each new season is a chance for your clients to reimagine themselves, to be reborn as a blonde, or revived with shades of violet. Whether they’re taking inspiration from the latest looks on the catwalk or from what they see around them on the street, ultimately they’ll put their faith in you to guide them to a style and colour that will not only scratch their fashion itch but suit them as a person. So to keep you up-to-date with the latest colour trends and looks we asked the top experts from across the UK what they thought would be hot as the weather gets cold. Clayde Baumann, International Technical Creative Director at D&J Ambrose My hero shades this season are the three new champagne colours from Wella Koleston named La Beige (6/97, 8/97, and 10/97) , they can be used together, alone, or interlaced between other rich deep shades to give an opulent, multi-faceted finish. Aubergine and grape are already popular on colours on request for this season. They’re great shades to make hair look visibly thicker and healthier because of their dense pigment – I’m loving them on a sharp Dior-style bob. A red palette is always a winner for warming the skin in the winter months when the complexion goes pallid. For a natural effect, I’m diffusing my reds with soft ombre and balayage techniques before finishing them with a glaze like Perfecton from Wella.

Jack Howard of Paul Edmonds, L’Oreal Professionnel UK Colour Spokesperson As we head into autumn, my prediction for colour would be metallics, which are all over the catwalk. We’ll see microtrends within this including rose gold which will continue to be one of the hottest trends this season (as seen on Sienna Miller and Emma Roberts). Going rose gold should start with very blonde hair so it’s not for the client who likes their colour low-maintenance. It’s definitely not pink, it’s much more grown up and wearable; flecks of copper gold within the colour can be made darker or lighter depending on your preference. Metallic green will also be one of the most prominent trends; we’ve already seen it filter into the mainstream with Kylie Jenner wearing it. Also look out for silver this season which I’ve been seeing a lot of on Instagram and Pinterest, we’re achieving this in salon with L’Oreal DIA Light semi-permanent colour.

Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson Hair and Beauty Reds this season (as seen at Marchesa) are deep and shiny, so clients will need well-conditioned hair for the colour to last all season. I’m working with a global application for a statement shade or using my swirl technique with two deep shades of red for an on trend but multi-tonal finish. My favourite trend of the season is dark luxurious hair. It’s glamorous but wearable and taps into both the 90’s trend and the luxurious dark shades seen at Christian Dior and Dolce and Gabbana. We’re working with this trend using our swirl technique (we mix two colours together and swirl them around the head for a bespoke colour – this can be as subtle or as bold as you like...) to combine rich dark browns and reds to create a dark cherry shade and swirl in blackberry blues.

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Rae Palmer, Revlon Ambassador and director at WeLove Salons For the Autumn/Winter season I’m championing all shades of blue as we saw lots of bright colours all over the catwalk. Versace blue was really glamorous and I loved the idea of putting a bright fuchsia pink next to it. Blue for me is such an awe inspiring colour as it’s one of the few colours where you get so many different hues and depths. I loved spending time identifying my favourite blue tones from an electric blue laser, a sky blue, a sea green blue (I used green in some shades as an accent colour). For daring clients, go acid bright; to cool a brunette, diffuse the shade; for ice blondes go pale and powder blue (as seen at Balmain and Stella McCartney) or for those with dark hair, go blue/black – think Katy Perry. Being on trend means it’s important that we follow the catwalk - we don’t create the looks but we commercialise them and bring them to the high street. However, within this we have the opportunity to create micro trends and techniques like tartan. The technique was inspired by my love of tartan and beautiful tweed textiles. For AW16 we’ve seen print across both men’s and women’s lines including Burberry, Gucci, Balenciaga and Fendi. I textiled the hair to create patterns. When examining tartan, I was struck by the use of parallel patterns with an accent colour weave running through the fabric which has been translated to the hair. Even long commercial hair can be made ‘arty’ but wearable. To create this high fashion technique, after bleaching, I created a tartan pattern on foil. These foils were placed around a halo section, following the pattern on the foil. Each section of the hair was then placed onto the patterned foil. Using an artist’s brush, I then coloured in the pattern on the foils. I used the COLORWORX BLUE mixed with water to create a lighter and pure tone as a secondary blue. The COLORWORX RED accent colour was then used to create the woven tartan effect.

Tasha Stevens, Colour Director at Jamie Stevens Reds are always popular tones as we make our way into autumn as they emulate the wealth of shades seen on the leaves as they change. These tones are perfect for most skin tones but work really well with blue eyes and milky skin tones. A colour like this brings clients back into the salon more often to maintain the shade and is a great way of upselling colour boosting treatments. Cooler, darker tones are very much inspired by the catwalk for this season. Translate it into hair with colour that gives high shine and a thicker denser feel. We’re working with a global application for a dramatic finish. Colour should look rich this season so expect to see lots of warm caramel tones and deep dark brunettes. We’re working with semi-permanent oil based shades to give the hair a luxurious, luminous effect. To add richness and tone, balayage pieces throughout the mid-lengths and ends using a slightly darker colour.

James Taylor, Colour Director at Barrie Stephen As we move into the autumn we are seeing colours and techniques transition into deeper, romantic and sophisticated shades. The ever so popular rose gold shades of summer are deepening and intensifying into rosy copper hues with these coppers having subtle accents of plums, violets, and magenta. Auburn will be red hot this winter with coppers and light chocolates blending for that perfect autumnal colour choice that’s seductive and a real head turner. Blonde hair isn’t going anywhere either as our lighter haired clients will be seeking multifaceted platinum. Soft mixes of natural, pearl, beige, and nude tones will keep blondes looking vibrant, glossy, and healthy looking through the duller months. Butterscotch blondes add a warmth and a rich lustre for those seeking healthy and expensive looking blonde hair. For those clients demanding drama and a high impact colour, black will deliver just that. It is a bold colour move but one that screams sophistication, elegance, individuality, and will certainly attract attention, perfect for all those fashionistas out there. If you feel jet black is too bold for certain clients try adjusting the colour direction with Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA mix tones & ColorWorx. Navy blues, blackcurrant purples, black cherry reds, or matt black emerald greens can set off a multitude of different skin tones whilst still keeping your clients hair dark. Nautral muted browns are the only way to be brunette through the cool season from light ash brown, cappuccinos, and mocha shades, to dark bitter cocoa. Brown is a very versatile colour that appears velvety soft and rich.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 51

FELLOWSHIP LIGHT ELEMENTS Hair:

Project X 2016

Photography: Barry Jeffery

Make-up:

Elizabeth Rita

Styling:

Desiree Lederer

Art Direction:

Errol Douglas MBE

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SHOWCA SE

Por fol io

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 53

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS

Photography: Karine & Oliver Photography (Karine Welter & Oliver Rust) Make-up: Gudrun MÃ¼ller assisted by Chiho Schwarzer Styling: Lucy Manning assisted by Lilly Austin

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LADY NIGHT

Hair: Manuel Mon Photography: Bernardo Baragano Make-up: Maria Montes & Helena Truebano Styling: Adriana Miranda

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS

Photography: Karine & Oliver Photography (Karine Welter & Oliver Rust) Make-up: Gudrun MÃ¼ller assisted by Chiho Schwarzer Styling: Lucy Manning assisted by Lilly Austin www.SalonNV.co.uk | 55

FELLOWSHIP COLOUR PROJECT Hair: Colour Project 2016 Photography: Richard Miles Make-up: Roseanna Velin Art Direction: Michelle Griffin 56 | SalonNV Magazine

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 57

58 | SalonNV Magazine

JASON HALL

Hair:

Jason Hall

Photography:

Desmond Murray

Make-up:

Kelly Cripps

Styling:

Alastair J Gourley

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 59

PRODUC T

Captain Fawcett Booze and Baccy Eau De Parfum Ricki Hall and the Captain have teamed up to produce this most manly of aftershaves. Top notes of bay rum, zesty orange, and bergamot combine with luxuriant base notes of honeyed fresh tobacco leaves to create a masculine, old-fashioned scent. £65 – www.captainfawcett.com

Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Energising Moisture Treatment Label.men Deconstructor This versatile, matte-textured product uplifts roots for a long lasting, fuller look. Mould, sculpt, and experiment to create your desired hair style with a firm hold and a dry matte finish. Suitable for all hair types, it boosts volume and adds thickness to hair.

A non-oily moisturiser enriched with vitamins C and E, chestnut extract, and soy to help revitalise dull and fatigued skin. The secret weapon in any man’s arsenal to help improve the skin’s look and texture. £21 – www.kiehls.co.uk

£11.95 – www.labelm.com/uk

Structure Smoothshock

Jason Shankey Moisture Balm Introduce your clients to the moisturising, nourishing qualities of this soothing balm, packed with vitamins and antioxidants to tighten pores, moisturise dry skin and reduce the appearance of redness after shaving. £9.95 – www.jasonshankey.com

Fuel to tame that unmanageable hair, this nourishing foaming oil is designed for creating sexy, smooth hairstyles. Especially fantastic on curly hair as it adds more definition and separation but works its wonder on all hair types, lengths, and textures, and both damp and dry hair. £13.35 – www.structurehair.co.uk

Imperial Gel Pomade Combining the best properties of gels and pomades to create a new hybrid styling medium, it goes in light and smooth, providing a sculptable precision that will dry into the hair and harden for an all day, stay-in-place hold. £23.75 - www.beardsmen.co.uk

Uppercut Deluxe Pomade Uppercut Deluxe Pomade gives you a strong hold with the right amount of shine which doesn’t dry out; this pomade really does have it all. The best bit – it washes out with absolutely no fuss. Uppercut Deluxe Pomade was designed for the discerning kinda guy who has a particular style in mind. Perfect for timeless, classic looks such as high pompadours, side parts or slick-back sides. £16 - www.uppercutdeluxe.com

Male GroomingENVY 60 | SalonNV Magazine

HAIR BY LONDON SCHOOL OF BARBERING | LONDONSCHOOLOFBARBERING.COM | FIND YOUR STOCKIST ON FUDGEPROFESSIONAL.COM

NEW CUrve MAKER

WITH ELASTO-CURVE TECHNOLOGY

Restructuring Protein Complex plus multi-active styling and conditioning agents create an elasticizing effect, regulating moisture and controlling frizz whilst retaining natural flexibility and bounce. Heat defence up to 235Â° plus 24 hour hold. www.SalonNV.co.uk | 61

BARBER CUT DUBLIN

BARBER CUT DUBLIN SUNDAY 2ND OF OCTOBER 2016

IRISH BARBERING H T

he Irish barbering scene will never be the same again as Barber Cut made an indelible impression on the industry in Dublin at the weekend, as hundreds of barbers joined forces for a day of education and networking at the Opium Rooms, brought together by barber Sam Donnelly and event organiser Keiron Black. A pre-show party was held the night before at Farrier & Draper which was a chance for all the performers and exhibitors to mingle before the main event, with some, like Andrew Does Hair and the Layrite team, Donnie Hawley and Mitchel Wilson, travelling all the way from the west coast of America especially to be there. With Bulleit and Hop House providing the alcohol it was certainly a lively affair! The main event kicked off at midday on Sunday and the international feel of the day was clear right from the off as thw LSF barber group from Italy were first on stage to showcase their skills. The audience was packed right from the start of the day for everyone on the main stage, and also for the other events

62 | SalonNV Magazine

filtered throughout the amazing venue. Opium Rooms has a maze-like feel with dark corridors winding between rooms and another lesson in barbering excellence awaiting around every corner - it was a never ending feast for the senses. Among the many highlights of the day was the presentation of a lifetime achievement award to Liam Finnegan of the Waldorf Barbershop and Shaving Saloon. An absolute stalwart of the industry, Liam was unfortunately unable to pick up the prize in person due to illness, but his daughter Linda, also a top barber, was on hand to collect it and give an emotional speech. As the inaugural winner of what is sure to become the most prestigious award in Irish barbering, Liamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s place in the barbering hall of fame is secured. As always, the Schorem guys received a rousing reception as Leen performed on stage with Bertus commentating, filling in the crowd on the history of the scumbag barbers from Rotterdam and explaining how they came to be so highly regarded with their set number of

BARBER CUT DUBLIN

G HISTORY haircuts and reputation for crazy antics. For many, the chance to see influential Americans in the flesh for the first time was their main reason for coming and they weren’t disappointed as first they Layrite pair of Mitchel and Donnie showcased their stuff in the early afternoon before Andrew Does Hair took to the stage just prior to Menspire. These guys are doing things on a completely different level to many in the UK and Ireland so it was inspiring for local Irish barbers (and even the top ones) to see it first-hand. More than the vast array of world class barbers from around the globe educating and performing to a packed and willing crowd, what most guests will take away from Barber Cut Dublin will be the friendly and jovial atmosphere that extended throughout the whole event. Everyone was willing to offer a helping hand or bit of wisdom to their fellow barber and it made for an incredibly welcoming day. We can’t wait for Barber Cut 2017 – it’s sure to be some craic!

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TrainingNV

AC A DEM Y

HIGH DEFINITION

Nilam Holmes-Patel

One of Britain’s biggest beauty success stories in the past decade has been High Definition. Their treatments have proved consistently popular, even as they branched out from eyebrows to include nails, lashes, and just about everything else, but it’s their training programme that really catches the eye. Launched in Yorkshire in 2008 as the company began its inexorable growth, there are now four High Definition academies around the UK to cater for the constant demand from stylists to learn the techniques and treatments that are so sought after by clients. Leeds, Glasgow, Milton Keynes, and Newry all boast top of the range academies that welcome stylists on courses including High Definition’s classic HD Brows, Makeup Artistry, Anatomy and Physiology, and the new HD Nails. All of which are taught to the highest standard by a team of top professionals guiding you every step of the way.

6464| SalonNV | SalonNV Magazine Magazine

TrainingNV

CEO and Co-founder Nilam Holmes-Patel has won various awards for her entrepreneurial skills in growing High Definition to the beauty giant they’ve become, including a recent Woman of the Year SME Business Award, but despite the company’s size and status, Nilam tell us she plays an active role in ensuring the academies are performing to the high standards expected of them. “I’m heavily involved in all aspects of the business and personally develop the curriculum for all the training courses we offer. I don’t have much time to be in the classroom, but try to drop in as much as I can to ensure everything is running smoothly and to meet students. I’ve just released dates for when I’ll be back teaching some special classes, and I am so excited! I love this part of my job and it will be great to get back into the classroom and to meet some of our amazing stylists. It’s important to never stop learning and become an expert in your field, and I hope to inspire those attending to be the best.”

When it comes to training the educators who will be responsible for the next generation of High Definition stylists, Nilam is hands-on. “I personally train all my educators,” she explains. “It takes approximately six months for them to be at the level I require and I always ensure they have good personalities, as learning should be fun. All my trainers started off as students who went on to become successful Pro and Master Stylists, who had impressed me. My team of elite trainers have the same passion for the brand as myself, and always set incredibly high standards, which allows students attending our training to feel inspired, motivated, and loyal towards the High Definition branded treatments.” Although they started as HD Brows, building up a reputation as the go-to branded eyebrow treatment, High Definition’s aims were always bigger than that and there’s now a range of options for consumers to choose from under the High Definition umbrella. For Nilam it was a natural extension of their brand to expand into other areas. She says: “Professional training and education are the foundations of the group and we now offer courses in High Definition Brows, Makeup Artistry, and Nail Systems at all of our elite training academies in Leeds, Glasgow, Milton Keynes, and Northern Ireland, as well as an Anatomy and Physiology course online. I work with the best of the best in the industry to ensure that all the curriculums and courses we offer are of the highest quality that we have become renowned for. My Elite Trainers undergo training every two months, so I know that they are all up-to-date with new trends and skills, which they can pass on in the classroom.” Nilam’s expertise and the top of the range training they’ll get is a big draw for stylists who wish to start offering the treatments in their own salon, with a Refresher Day offered free within six months for High Definition Brows stylists to ensure they stay fully trained and qualified. “We don’t just train people to offer treatments, we off our stylists a career with High Definition, which continues long after

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they have completed the training courses; we continue to raise the bar with our educational agenda,” explains Nilam. “The training courses are highly practical and structured and are open to everyone at any stage of their career, offering attendees the skills required to master and perfect the unique High Definition Brows Experience in their salon. “Our incredibly talented trainers are ready to share their wisdom and skills with students. Those who attend develop new skillsets and additional techniques that maximise their potential for new business and increase profits. They also have dedicated marketing and PR support, and the strength of the brand means it is sought after from consumers who can access salons information on our Salon Finder; in August 2016 there was more than 20,000 unique users on the website’s Salon Finder directing consumers to our 8,500 trained stylists.” The opportunities are endless and it’s no surprise the uptake has been so great from stylists around the country, with High Definition saying that, dependent on location and skill level, an accredited Brows Stylist can bring in £32,500 per annum. Nilam says: “The most successful stylists are those who keep up with regular training, refining their skills to make them the best they can be before achieving the highest accolade available – becoming a High Definition Brows Master Stylist – the best of the best who are regularly called upon for VIP clients and highprofile events. “The industry is constantly evolving and will continue to do so. Our training has always set a high standard in the industry, which other brands have followed. Personally I feel it is important to stay ahead of the game and training innovation is key to our success. I work with different people in the beauty, cosmetic, and medical industry to look for the newest innovations.

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”Their innovations are continuing the change the industry for the better, as well as improving the lives of the many stylists who have undertaken High Definition training, something Nilam is extremely proud of, but she is striving to grow the brand even further. She says: “We hear so many success stories from our stylists at how becoming a High Definition Brows Stylists has changed their lives. One of my Elite trainers used to work in administration, and now owns four salons as well as working with me on the training curriculum. “We will continue to develop our curriculum and educational offerings to ensure that we are offering the highest of standards and evolve with the industry. We’ve just launched in Russia, and continue to look for opportunities to open new training academies.” Exciting times ahead for High Definition’s education and training and we look forward to seeing how they innovate in the years ahead.

Â©HIGH DEFINITION GR OUP LIMITED 201

HD BEAUTY GROUP PROUD SPONSORS OF BEST THERAPIST

beautyinhighdefinition.com

0844 801 68 46

info@hdbeautygroup.com www.SalonNV.co.uk

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fashion week Up and coming trends from London, Milan, and New York

Unite at LFW

Alexandra Moura Matt Stark for Unite headed up the team tasked with completing the look for Lisbon based contemporary avant-garde designer Alexandra Moura. With her SS17 looks inspired by the secret history of lovers’ eyes, Matt tried to channel soft, naturally feminine hair with an element of youthfulness.

Unite at MFW Byblos

Nick Irwin for Unite headed up the backstage hair styling for the show from Byblos at Milan Fashion week based on late 70’s and early 80’s ski wear. The result was effortlessly modern yet youthful with elements of the hair meant to look beautiful and some looking slightly sweaty to envisage a girl with a classic blow-dry at the gym two days later.

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Davines at NYFW Creatures of Comfort

Joseph DiMaggio for Davines was heavily influenced by Frida Kahlo, but without being a literal take on her signature hair. By taking the literal meaning of ‘Creatures of Comfort’, Joseph tried to embody Jade Lai’s designs through a relaxed comfortable low ponytail.

ghd at LFW Erdem

Session stylist Anthony Turner partnered with ghd to create the Erdem girl’s 16th century sea journey, with a shipwrecked look that evokes a soft, romantic feel and translates well into wedding hair.

Fudge at LFW Mother of Pearl

Mari Ohashi of LGA Management for Fudge Professional was challenged to compliment Mother of Pearl’s 80s inspired collection with lots of texture, denim, and tweed, based on designs around the 1989 film anthology New York Stories. The result was big 80s statement hair with a touch of glamour.rest laut dolore minvelendaes autem estis volendit fugitature

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SPRINGING INTO ACTION AUTUMN

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DON’T DO DON’T

The changing of fashion season seems to get more anxious. Not so long ago it was easy. You had 2 collections a year; which were Spring/Summer, Autumn/ Winter and we basically planned our wardrobe accordingly. Nowadays you can’t go for a wee without coming back to your desk to find someone’s released a new collection, a sneaky collaboration or, what is even more common these days, a pre-collection. As if it is not hard enough dealing with the cold mornings, the grey skies, and the constant train delays, we as consumers now have to worry about what we are wearing even before the main collections are released. With this in mind, and to take some of the stress out of the change in seasons, we have put together the DOs and DONTs of transitioning your wardrobe. We will give you the key trends for A/W16 from head to toe, therefore your only real worry should be whether you’re having fullfat or skimmed milk with your pumpkin spiced latte. The easiest way to make your summer pieces more autumn appropriate isn’t to ditch them altogether, but to cook up new ways in which to wear them.

hate to tell you but winter is coming. However, before we get there, we still have to go through that transition period of summer to autumn. For many, this is their favourite time of year. The dark nights, the pumpkin spiced lattes, and Saturday nights in watching The X Factor with a takeaway. We call it “Fall” in the world of fashion; this is because the leaves start to fall from the trees, or it could be because, for many people struggle with seasonal affective mood issues, commonly referred to as Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), and their mood starts to dip.

Do you ever imagine yourself living in a place where the sun splits the trees all year round, where waves crash off the rocks as you sip a cocktail, and your partner whistles their favourite tune as they apply sunscreen to your back? Sounds like a dream, right? I’m sorry to disappoint you but it was a dream and you’re still in the UK. The only whistling you will hear is the kettle telling you your water has boiled for your Lemsip. Adding tights to your outfit can be a fun way to play with pattern, colour, and texture for autumn. By stocking up on tights, which generally cost an affordable £6 to £15, you have a way to extend the life of your favourite summer skirts and dresses. Look for opaque tights – I love cable-knit versions with tons of texture. A pair of grey textured tights worn with your favourite khaki skirt and boots is about as autumnal as a pumpkin patch. Let layering get the best of you. Layering is the perfect strategy for extending those summer favourites into autumn, however keep it simple to avoid looking like you are being eaten alive by your outfit. The key is to make sure you have no more than three levels of layering going on.

Mix textures. There’s nothing more fashion-forward and chic than mixing different textures like velvet, silk, cashmere, and everything in between!

Look like you are trying too hard. While mixing textures is great, you want to make sure your separates still go together - pay close attention to the colours and patterns so it doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard.

Start wearing autumn hues. Channel those changing leaves! As you transition your wardrobe, start dabbling in fall’s signature hues like orange, red, rust, and this ultra-pretty mustard yellow.

We are currently ‘trans-seasonal’, which is a selling term rather than a made-up fashion word. It refers to a selection of new styles that will help you ‘transition’ from summer to autumn. I seem to recall that we used to do that by putting on a jumper and digging out some tights, but if you’d rather buy a new set of clothes, here’s five key pieces to look for right now. Tough-Girl Lace-Up Ankle Boots

Add a pair of 90s-inspired lace-up combat boots to your ankle-boot arsenal. A stackedheel bootie still keeps the rugged, tough feel of the silhouette but gives you more versatility to wear with jeans, tapered trousers, a flippy printed dress, or winter shorts and tights

A Classic Black Turtleneck

This season hails the return of the classic, cozy silhouette that not only keeps us warm but also serves as an easy layering piece to wear on its own or bundled under a wooly, cropped jacket or casual flannel boyfriend shirt.

Wide Legged Trouser

Wide-legged trousers are going to be the new style for autumn – especially worn as part of a suit – so you might as well invest in a pair now. They’re more forgiving than culottes but still a bit tricky: make sure your trousers sit properly on your waist and get someone to turn them up for you or you’ll come a cropper at some point between now and Christmas.

Ultra-Chic Knee-High Boots As we all know, tall boots serve two purposes in the frigid winter season: to give us extra coverage (especially when we opt for a miniskirt) and to add a dose of sex appeal

to your look. Worn with tights and a longish pencil skirt, knee-high boots are totally officeappropriate (and will keep your legs warm). Plus, the height is a perfect compromise for those times you’re feeling a little sassy but aren’t quite ready to commit to the thigh-high.

A Sophisticated Midi Coat

Not only will the streamlined, below-the-knee topper keep you warm and toasty through the autumn months, it will also elevate your favourite jeans-and-sweater outfit and give you ultra-chic coverage over a dress.

AUTUMN/ WINTER 16 KEY TRENDS AND COLOURS

The 80s are well and truly back AGAIN and like the last five times, Jane Fonda will be pleased. Brace yourself for Saint Laurent’s one shoulder party dresses or Marni’s stirrup leggings.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Animal Magic

Straight out of a scene from David Attenborough’s Hunting Season, spot the spots. Top designers Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Francisco Costa are bringing the animal kingdom together better than Mustafa, using a variety of animal prints from leopard to cheetah in a single look.

CELINE

BURBERRY

SAINT LAURENT

The Eighties Are Back

Nothing beats a good coat trend, except another good coat trend. And for AW16 the mac is back! Burberry has updated their iconic trenchcoat with glossy snake print (see Animal Magic!) while Prada and Celine have both brought the mac back into the public eye with innovative and colourful designs.

Vel-v-et or Velvet to you and I! Autumn/Winter’s key fabric trend is velvet. Velvet dresses, velvet accessories, velvet hats, velvet lining, velvet trims. I think you get the point. Designers went all out crazy for the fabric for this season’s runways. Wear it crushed, coloured, or top-to-toe, anything goes as long as you don’t ruin those Ellery boots in the rain.

PREEN

ISABEL MARANT

Return Of The (Special) Mac

Purple Rain Prince’s songs might be your choice for karaoke, however when it comes to A/ W16, designers doused entire looks in a sort of sickly shade of violet, giving us this season’s stand-out colour trend. And while Prince may no longer be with us, purple is certainly living on in the collections of Robert Cavalli and Miu Miu, the latter almost giving the watching crowd diabetes with an assortment of sweet inspired models.

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OCT/NOV 2016 TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

3rd Oct

2 Days

2 Day Training Course

High Definition

Leeds, Glasgow

£1,395.00

0844 8013247

3rd Oct

2 Days

2 Day Training Course

High Definition

Milton Keynes

£1,395.00

0844 8013247

5th Oct

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Hair North East

Newcastle

£75.00

0191 271 2553

6th Oct

2 Days

2 Day Training Course

High Definition

Leeds, Glasgow

£1,395.00

0844 8013247

6th Oct

2 Days

2 Day Training Course

High Definition

Milton Keynes

£1,395.00

0844 8013247

7th Oct

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Professional Choice

Birmingham

£75.00

0121 443 5400

10th Oct

1 Day

Make-Up Conversion Course

High Definition

Leeds, MK

£1,295.00

0844 8013247

10th Oct

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Hair & Beauty World

Paisley

£75.00

0141 887 2167

11th Oct

1 Day

Classic Lash Course

Novalash

London

POA

01273 041966

12th Oct

1 Day

Refresher Class

High Definition

Leeds, Glasgow

£95.00

0844 8013247

12th Oct

1 Day

American Volume Lash Class

Novalash

London

POA

01273 041966

12th Oct

1 Day

Refresher Class

High Definition

Milton Keynes

£95.00

0844 8013247

13th Oct

1 Day

American Volume Lash Class

Novalash

London

POA

01273 041966

14th Oct

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Professional Choice

Northampton

£75.00

01604 761000

18th Oct

1 Day

Classic Lash Course

Novalash

Dublin

POA

01273 041966

19th Oct

1 Day

American Volume Lash Class

Novalash

Dublin

POA

01273 041966

22nd Oct

4 Days

Beginner’s Microblading Course

Beautiful Brows

London

£2,500.00

0151 427 0319

23rd Oct

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Capital

Norwich

£75.00

01603 630747

25th Oct

1 Day

Classic Lash Course

Novalash

Edinburgh

POA

01273 041966

26th Oct

1 Day

American Volume Lash Class

Novalash

Edinburgh

POA

01273 041966

26th Oct

1 Day

Refresher Class

High Definition

Leeds, Glasgow

£95.00

0844 8013247

27th Oct

1 Day

Pro Refresher Class

High Definition

Leeds, Glasgow

£395.00

0844 8013247

27th Oct

1 Day

Classic Lash Course

Novalash

Edinburgh

POA

01273 041966

72 | SalonNV Magazine

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OCT/NOV 2016 TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

28th Oct

1 Day

Master Class

High Definition

Leeds, Glasgow

£695.00

0844 8013247

30th Oct

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Hair & Beauty World

Dunfermline

£75.00

01383 730505

31st Oct

2 Days

2 Day Training Course

High Definition

Leeds, Glasgow

£1,395.00

0844 8013247

31st Oct

2 Days

2 Day Training Course

High Definition

Milton Keynes

£1,395.00

0844 8013247

1st Nov

1 Day

Davines Styling Workshop

Davines Academy

London

£75.00

020 3301 5449

4th Nov

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Professional Choice

Leicester

£75.00

0116 277 2660

5th Nov

4 Days

Beginner’s Microblading Course

Beautiful Brows

Liverpool

£2,500.00

0151 427 0319

7th Nov

4 Days

Facial Therapy

Pevonia

London

POA

01449 727008

7th Nov

4 Days

Pre Bonded Hair Extensions

Cinderella Hair Training

Doncaster

£954.00

0208 965 3777

14th Nov

1 Day

Classic Lash Course

Novalash

London

POA

01273 041966

14th Nov

1 Day

Introduction to Mask Colour

Davines Academy

London

£75.00

020 3301 5449

15th Nov

1 Day

American Volume Lash Class

Novalash

London

POA

01273 041966

16th Nov

1 Day

Classic Lash Course

Novalash

Manchester

POA

01273 041966

17th Nov

1 Day

American Volume Lash Class

Novalash

Manchester

POA

01273 041966

18th Nov

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Professional Choice

Wellingborough

£75.00

01933 227646

19th Nov

4 Days

Beginner’s Microblading Course

Beautiful Brows

Glasgow

£2,500.00

0151 427 0319

21st Nov

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Essential Hair & Beauty Supplies

Widnes

£75.00

01744 750737

21st Nov

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Capital

Aberdeen

£75.00

01224 620430

21st Nov

1 Day

Pre Bonded Hair Extensions

Cinderella Hair Training

Livingston

£954.00

0208 965 3777

25th Nov

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Professional Choice

Coventry

£75.00

02476 445500

27th Nov

1 Day

Crazy Angel Tanning Course

Hair & Beauty World

Dunfermline

£75.00

01383 730505

28th Nov

1 Day

Pre Bonded Hair Extensions

Cinderella Hair Training

London

£954.00

0208 965 3777

28th Nov

1 Day

Introduction to New Colour

Davines Academy

London

£75.00

020 3301 5449

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