SalonNV Issue 22 by Gallus Media

SALONNV ISSUE 22

SALON

SHABA The Social Christmas Gift Guide

WINTER 2018

SHOWCASE

Hair: Colin McAndrew for Medusa Photography: Lee Howell

Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Head Writer Matthew McLaughlin | Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Manager Kat Heron Design & Marketing PrintNV | Thanks: AJC PR, Patrick Cameron, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Colin McAndrew and the Medusa Group, Amy Johnston, Amy McPherson and the Haven Health & Beauty team, Ky Wilson, Epibrow, ghd, Jayd Linney of Nailco Nail Bar, e-chair.com, Rush Live, Mago Hair, Aria Hair and Beauty, Custom Belmont, Takara Belmont, Fudge Professional, Milkshake, Linton + Mac, David Barron, Laurent Voisinet, Bruno Estatoff, Elie Valiere and Hair and Beauty World. Columnists: Josie Smith, Errol Douglas, Fallon Carberry, Jason Collier, Peter Mellon, Erin Gavin and Emil McMahon | Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 5 Newton Place, Glasgow G3 7PR Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and Gallus Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. ÂŠ Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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Hair: Colin McAndrew for Medusa Photography: Lee Howell

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CONTENTS

I S S U E 22 News

Products

SHABA

Christmas Gift Guide

Errol Douglas

Dutch Braid

SHABA Interviews

Urban Queen by ghd

The Social

Peter Mellon

Nailco Nail Bar

#BLOW Fallon Carberry

Mago Hair Extensions

Erin Gavin

Fellowship

Jason Collier

Rush Live

Emil McMahon

In the Chair

Patrick Cameron

Editor’s Comment SalonNV Issue 22 is the official post-SHABA edition. Here, we’ll bring you all the glitz and glamour from the night, as well as a list of all the winners. And as this is our post-SHABA edition, we have interviews with some of the incredible winners. We’ve also got an amazing feature from longhair specialist Patrick Cameron. We also have our Christmas gift guide to give you inspiration for the festive period. It’s hard to believe it’s that time already but the festive period is flying in. With the official launch of e-chair.com at Salon International, we decided to take a look at the UK spaces shaking up the industry in a big way. In previous years where self-employment in our industry may have been unheard of, now the freelance sector is booming. With an estimated 51% of UK hairdressers being their own bosses,

Enjoy!

we can only imagine this boom will bring about a new wave of creativity in the industry. SalonNV interviewed Ky Wilson, the owner and innovator behind The Social, about where he thinks the UK hair and beauty industry is going and the inspiration behind his creative, communal space. We’ve also got all the features, news and product picks you’ve come to expect from SalonNV. There’s never a dull moment. If you have any news, products or ideas for us please don’t hesitate to email us at: contact@salonnv.co.uk

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS Great Lengths launch World-leading hair extensions brand, Great Lengths are excited to launch their new, limited-edition Mother of Pearl shade, which is set to become the dominating hair trend this winter. The collection subtly integrates all of the Great Lengths customary fashion shades with a silver base. Created using an intricate blending process, which gives the hair a multi-dimensional finish. Available in both pre-bonded and the Great Lengths GL Tapes system, which was launched earlier this year, Mother of Pearl is available for a limited period only and exclusive to Great Lengths certified stylists in the UK and Ireland. Great Lengths Education and Creative Manager, Louise Jenkins said: “We are very excited to introduce the new Mother of Pearl colour as part of our extensive offering. Great Lengths extensions

are 100% human hair of guaranteed traceable origin and ethicality, and can be used for lengthening, volumising, colouring or adding texture. “Silver and grey hair has been such a big trend in 2018 and the ice queen silver dream is set to continue. Mother of Pearl is perfect for blending with any colour across the silver hair spectrum from greys to white outs, to silver fades and streaks. With the subtle flex of colours which are blended to make this divine Mother of Pearl colour there’s no doubt a client’s colour will be truly enhanced, alongside the lengthening or thickening results which Great Lengths extensions naturally bring.” For more information please visit www.greatlengthshair.co.uk or find your nearest salon using the Great Lengths salon locator to book a consultation today: http://www.greatlengthshair. co.uk/salon-locator/

An evening of autumnal inspiration from Alter Ego Italy Alter Ego Italy ensured stylists from across the UK were up-to-date with the cut and colour trends set to be big this season, at an event held at the brand’s Leeds academy. Guests were treated to autumnal style and shades demonstrations by UK Creative Ambassador, Pete Burkill, UK Colour Ambassador, Issie Churcher and guest artists Gavin McIntyre and Ross Charles. The colours on show ranged from icy blondes to midnight blues and rusty coppers, with artful colour placement used to define hairlines and accentuate the model’s features. The haircuts embraced sharp geometric styles and dual texture, perfectly complementing the colour placement to create looks, which drew inspiration from punk, Debbie Harry, and the Vikings. Technical hair chief at Alter Ego Italy’s UK distributor, Sweet Squared, Emily Schofield: “It was a wonderful evening and gave us the opportunity to share with hairdressers the versatility of our colour ranges and styling products. Autumn/winter looks set to be a season of stunning contrasts and Alter Ego Italy are the perfect partner for delivering these on-trend looks to your clients.”

KAM Hair and Body Spa at London Fashion Week On Friday September 14, Johnston’s of Elgin hosted their first spring/summer presentation in the stunning surroundings of the Palm Court at the Waldorf Hilton Hotel. The brand, famed for their cashmere architecture and expertise, showcased a whole new dimension this season. The year-round collection of new and cuttingedge lightweight fabrications, established Johnston’s of Elgin as a label for every season. Karen Thomson, owner of KAM Hair and Body Spa in Lossiemouth and Matrix Educator, along with stylists from her team, were backstage to style for the show. She said: “This was my second Fashion Week and it was an absolute honour to work with

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Johnston’s of Elgin under the stewardship of creative director, Alan Scott. It’s such a privilege to be asked to lead on hair for their SS19 debut at London Fashion Week.” Karen along with stylist Paula, created effortless, natural looking hairstyles for the show that would complement the SS19 collection. The styles explored three concepts; high summer, tissue weight cashmere and mesh constructions. The dresses and cropped trousers in 100% cashmere are impossibly light and full, playing with extreme volume. Tissue weight blanket scarves in bold summer hues feel barely there against the skin. The aim for Karen and her team was to have the hair blend into the garments, achieving stunning results. Hairstyles included sleek and

clean with deep side partings and intense mirror like shine. The day was very fast paced for the stylists, with the final presentation lasting two hours.

I N D U S T R Y NEWS

ghd appoints new CEO This week Coty announced the appointment of Jeroen Temmerman as chief executive officer of ghd. Jeroen has a wealth of professional beauty experience and promises to lead the global expansion of ghd.

Neil Barton receives Hall of Fame award at Global Zoom 2018

global master, Agnes Westerman, announced that Neil Barton had received a place on the Hall of Fame — an award that has only been launched in the past two years.

Owner of Neil Barton Hairdressing, Neil Barton, has been welcomed into Goldwell UK’s Global Colour Zoom Hall of Fame.

The award is given to a person who maximises their win at the Colour Zoom Challenge and has developed their career by mentoring people throughout the Goldwell network or mentoring people through the Colour Zoom Challenge.

The two-day Global Zoom 2018 Gala Show was held at the Enercare Centre in Toronto, Canada and was a spectacular production of visual graphics, dancers and the brightly coloured fashion show of the latest collection REMIX created by the Global Artistic Team. As well as the world premiere of the Colour Zoom 2019 collection, the show featured the announcement of the 2018 Global winners at the event where 3,000 salon stylists gathered for the largest beauty show Toronto had ever seen. After a fantastic opening show, Kao Salon’s Global President, Cory Couts, and last year’s Global Fame inductee and Goldwell

Kao Salon’s global president said: “Neil was our Colour Zoom winner in Paris and we inducted Neil for this year’s Hall of Fame Award, as he took his Colour Zoom Challenge win and built a stellar career traveling the world winning International Awards.” Goldwell ambassador and owner of Neil Barton Hair said: “To win the Hall of Fame Award was such a surprise and I am absolutely delighted. Goldwell is a huge part of my career and to be part of such great shows is truly incredible.”

President of Professional Beauty at Coty, Sylvie Moreau said: “I am delighted to have Jeroen in the team as the ghd CEO. “He brings over 20 years of experience within the professional beauty sector, combined with a deep passion for our industry, brands and people. “With Jeroen as its leader, I’m confident that ghd will reach new heights and further develop this beautiful, iconic brand together with our customers.” Jeroen spent the past twenty-one years working across the world in the Professional Beauty sector, holding a variety of positions with L’Oreal Professional. Most recently he was the managing director for Latin America, while his previous roles include markets such as Hispanic America, Netherlands, France, Nordics and others. Recognised for his strategic thinking, creativity, ability to drive change and his entrepreneurial spirit, Jeroen has built efficient organisations and developed talent, brands and customer programs across channels. ghd CEO, Jeroen Temmerman said: “I am honoured to be CEO of ghd, an iconic and leading global hair brand anchored in the professional salon industry, fuelled by innovation and professional endorsement. “I have admired ghd since the beginning and I am excited about our great future together, strengthening the heritage of ghd, engaging with consumers and stylists and creating the best salon professional tool brand in the world.”  Jeroen is based in the ghd global head office in London.

Fudge Professional Mixology Master 2018

Master™ competition included Essence PR guru Samantha Grocutt and award-winning hairdressers Lisa Farrall and Sid Sottung.

Following a flood of entries from across the globe, Fudge Professional has announced the winner of its Mixology Master™ 2018 competition as Janica Strom. Janica Strom from Salon Moodroom, Finland claimed her second title since 2016.

Winner, Janica Strom said: “I couldn’t believe it when I heard I won the Fudge Mixology Master 2018! I feel so honoured to carry this title for a second time now. I’ve competed a lot, but this competition and my success in it, has opened so many doors. I’m so happy!”

This year’s entries continued to be of an incredibly high standard. The judges all commented on Maria’s beautiful on-trend colour blends that showed great skill and understanding of the Fudge Colour portfolio range. As the Fudge Professional Mixology Master™ 2018, Maria received a £1000 in holiday vouchers and an incredible makeover Fudge Professional bundle for their salon. To enter, Fudge Professional colourists, across the globe uploaded a before image, step by step breakdown of the Fudge Professional colouring products used and finished look to the Fudge Professional website. Judges for the Mixology

Lengths: Fudge Professional Headpaint T06 (Rose Quartz Ash Infusion) Neck area lengths: Fudge Professional Headpaint T28 (Silver Lilac Ash Infusion) Triangle over ear: Fudge Paintbox Paintbox Yellow with a mix of conditioner. Pastel turquoise: Fudge Professional Paintbox Turquoise and Purple mixed with conditioner

Tracy Hayes, global head of technical education, said: “How amazing for Janica to win a second Mixology competition. I really believe that what stood out for the judges was the thought process in her presentation. Images that publications would love to have to show off Janica’s creative work using Fudge Professional Head paint and Paintbox colour. Well Done!” Winning Formula How To: Roots: Fudge Professional Headpaint T11 (Graphite Ash Infusion) + T28 (Silver Lilac Ash Infusion)

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A stylist from Linton & Mac, the multi-award-winning salon, based in Aberdeen, has taken part in the national Brave the Shave campaign, to raise money for a children’s cancer charity. Linton & Mac stylist Alison Simpson, 26, shaved her head to raise funds for the Teenage Cancer Trust. More than forty of Alison’s family and friends supported her last month. Alison’s friends and family watched as she ‘braved the shave’ with a close head shave at the Inverurie Locos Football Club. Alison was motivated to take part in the charity campaign after the daughter of an ex-colleague was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer. In addition to shaving her head, Alison also initiated a number of other fundraising events. Holding a bake sale at the Linton & Mac salon and a sponsored ‘wig afternoon’, which saw the entire Linton & Mac team sporting wigs on the salon

floor. Alison’s charity efforts have successfully raised in excess of £1,600. Linton & Mac directors, Jennifer Linton and Jaye MacDonald, said: “We were all so touched by Alison’s personal reason for wanting to support the Teenage Cancer Trust. Shaving her head was so brave, bold and selfless and we are immensely proud of Alison and all the hard work she has put into raising money for this worthy cause.”

The Hair and Barber Council has criticised the Government’s recent decision to cut funding for hairdressing apprenticeship training by 20%. Hair and Barber Council CEO, Keith Conniford has described the decision as yet another example of the industry being undervalued and of the need for regulation.

The decision by the Government to reduce the funding paid for apprenticeship training from £9,000 per student to just £7,000 comes at a time when the hairdressing industry is already struggling to find trainees to take the industry into the future. The news has been met with understandable negativity by those offering apprenticeships. The changes are still to be confirmed but as there is no further right of appeal this is expected to be a formality. According to Keith Conniford, the best way to make the Government aware of the professionalism of hairdressing and barbering is to unite under the banner of a regulated industry through state registration. He said: “Lobbying individual MPs may well help a little, but without a cohesive and joint campaign, I believe we will be in the same position in 10 or 20 years as we have been for decades. We know from experience that lobbying Government as a non-regulated industry is ineffective – look at how the industry has been ignored in relation to lowering the VAT threshold, despite years of lobbying. “If you really want all this to change, join with us and finally get our industry the professional recognition and status it truly deserves. Forget the past, let’s look to the future and really make history – together!”

ghd takes on Westfield ghd sponsored the On Trend event at Westfield, styling looks for models and guests at the high-street fashion show.

models on stage, showcasing the very best of high-street fashion during the event. Each model wore their own take on ghd’s Urban Queen look, with undone waves to compliment the new-season collections.

ghd was the headline sponsor for On Trend, an event which took place at London’s two Westfield shopping centres to coincide with London Fashion Week. The event was run in conjunction with Hearst Magazines – ELLE, Cosmopolitan and Esquire.

On Trend launched with an event for VIP guests, press and influencers, before three days of styling for Westfield guests. Starting in Westfield London from September 14-16, before moving to Westfield Stratford for September 21-23.

The fashion weekend included hourly catwalk shows to showcase gorgeous high street looks with hair by ghd. Guests also received complementary styling from ghd, facials from Murad skincare and makeovers from Charlotte Tilbury makeup.

With a gif booth, goody bags and plenty of fashion inspiration to be found, the event was the perfect place to launch ghd platinum+ to discerning shoppers – who could pick-up their own, thanks to a partnership with John Lewis.

The event was the perfect opportunity to show off the ground-breaking new ghd platinum+ styling tool, which features smart technology to predict your hair’s needs and leave it looking and feeling healthier.

ghd global head of education, Jo Robertson said: “Our Queenmakers in salons have done an amazing job launching the platinum+ to their clients, but we wanted to share our latest launch with consumers too, and this was the perfect platform to do it – especially during London Fashion Week, when there’s such a buzz around the city and shopping.

ghd offered complimentary styling to guests at their Smart Bar, which featured eight styling stations staffed by ghd style squad members and ghd brand warriors. Guests were able to experience the benefits of the platinum+ for themselves, choosing from four looks based on their new Long Live the Queens campaign. The brand also created looks for the

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS

Linton & Mac Brave the Shave

Government cuts apprenticeship funding

“We’re really proud of our style squad and brand warriors for doing such an amazing job styling both models and the public, and we loved the reaction the platinum+ got – you really can see the difference!”

PURE

by Milk _shake Hair styling: David Baker Colouring technique: Marzia Benedetti Cutting technique: David Baker

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PURE

by Milk _shake Hair styling: David Baker

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B.A.E

LINTON & MAC Hair & Styling: Linton & Mac Specialists Jaye MacDonald, Jenn Linton, Sarah Black, Ross Hume, Natalie Stephen Makeup: Marcia Wilkes Photography: Sid Scott

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SH A BA SH A BA Scottish Scottish Hair Hair & & Beauty Beauty Awards Awards Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BARBERNV S A L O N BARBERNV S A L O N BARBERNV S A L O N #SHABA18 #SHABA18 #SHABA 18 September 15th marked the eighth edition of the Scottish Hair & Beauty IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Awards in association with e-chair.com. Glasgow’s Hilton played host to an evening as luxe as the Scottish hair and beauty industry deserved. The grand ballroom felt like a whirring dream, as draped fabrics shimmered against the intimate lighting. The evening began with a champagne reception allowing SHABA guests to mingle and take selfies with the evening’s special guest Lauren Pope. Guests were then led to their tables, where they were greeted by plump goody-bags featuring products from Revlon, Barry M, Epibrow, Appraise and Crazy Angel. What followed next was a delicious three-course dinner, and with everyone’s appetites suitably satiated it was finally time to begin the awards proper. The evening was presided over by the charming Errol Douglas MBE and Josie Smith — who has been a SHABA guest since the very first awards evening. The tension grew thicker with the announcement of each category, with each winner that took to the stage, with each emotionally charged speech given. Soon it was half-time at the eighth annual Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards and with that came the entertainment. The half-time entertainment comes from Britain’s Got Talent’s, Edward Reid. His glowing personality burst on the stage and in an instant had people on the dancefloor. Edward brought the right amount of cheese to get the room painting the ceiling. And we have to say it was a pleasure to see Errol Douglas cutting shapes. The rapturous applause continued after Edward’s set had finished. By now seat edges have all but eroded and the room was fever pitch in anticipation for the remaining categories. And in this edition of SalonNV we can finally unveil all of the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards’ glamourous winners...

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S R E N N I W

SH A BA Scottish Scottish Hair Hair & & Beauty Beauty Awards Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BARBERNV BARBERNV

SALON SALON

#S HABA18 #S HABA18 BEST HAIR SALON | Sponsored by SalonNV

BEST BEST FEMALE STYLIST | Sponsored by eChair

Urban Hair & Beauty Highhouse, Auchinleck

Amy Johnston - The Regent Corner, Glasgow

BEST MALE STYLIST | Sponsored by eChair

BEST APPRENTICE STYLIST | Sponsored by The Hair Federation

Colin McAndrew - Medusa, Edinburgh

Kayleigh Spiers - Allure Hair & Beauty, Kilmarnock

BEST HAIR EXTENSIONIST | Sponsored by Hair Rehab

BEST BLOWDRY | Sponsored by Hair Rehab

James Martin - James Martin Hairdressers, Paisley

Ellie Lorimer - Rebel Hedz, New Cumnock

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BEST COLOURIST | Sponsored by Hair & Beauty World

BEST WEDDING HAIR | Sponsored by Asteria Bridal

Maya Buchanan - McGills, Edinburgh

Janine Jennings - Beut Hairdressing, Edinburgh

BEST SALON DESIGN | Sponsored by Custom Belmont

BEST BEAUTY SALON | Sponsored by Sally’s

Medusa, Edinburgh

The Haven Health & Beauty - Elgin

BEST BEAUTY THERAPIST| Sponsored by Hair & Beauty World

BEST MAKEUP ARTIST | Sponsored by SalonNV

Emma Whitton - Nu Yo, Arbroath

Ingrid McNab - Ingrid Peregrina Makeup, Edinburgh

BEST BROW ARTIST | Sponsored by Epibrow

BEST LASH ARTIST | Sponsored by Epibrow

Nadine Kelly - Nadine’s House of Beauty, Irvine

Morgan Traynor - The Nail Yard, Edinburgh

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BEST NAIL BAR | Sponsored by Gel Bottle

BEST NAIL ARTIST | Sponsored by Gel Bottle

Nailco Nail Bar, Glasgow

Jen Seales - Buff, Edinburgh

BEST TANNING TECHNICIAN | Sponsored by Fake Bake

BEST SPORTS MASSAGE | Sponsored by Sallyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Nicola Thomson - The Tanning Rooms, Uddingston

Kerry McKay - Purity, Fochabers, Moray

BEST SPA/DAY SPA | Sponsored by SalonNV

BEST COSMETIC PRACTITIONER | Sponsored by eChair

Westfield Complementary Health & Day Spa, Ayrshire

Jo Dee Gault - MTB Studios, New Cumnock

BEST HERO PRODUCT | Sponsored by SalonNV

SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCER | Sponsored by eChair

Suga Sistas, Glasgow

Deborah Burns - Can I Borrow Your Face, Dumfries

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20 18 WI NN ER S BEST TRAINING SCHOOL | Sponsored by eChair

BEST BARBERSHOP | Sponsored by Hair & Beauty World

Epibrow, Glasgow

West Barbers, Glasgow

BEST MALE BARBER | Sponsored by Andis

BEST FEMALE BARBER | Sponsored by Hair & Beauty World

Kyle Ross - Huntsman, Aberdeen

Leigh Nimmo - Barber & Groom, Gournock

BEST APPRENTICE BARBER| Sponsored by Choose Hair

BEST BARBER COLOURIST | Sponsored by BarberNV

Gavin Elphinstone - Men’s Emporium, Aberdeen

JP Michael - Rebel Rebel, Glasgow

BEST WET SHAVE | Sponsored by Joseph Lanzante

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD Sponsored by SalonNV & BarberNV

Charley Thomson - Old Smoke Barbers, Edinburgh

Adam Sloan - CEO of Men’s Hairdressing Federation

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// Josie Smith

In conversation with

Errol Douglas Ahead of the 2018 Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, host Errol Douglas sat down with his co-host, SalonNV’s Josie Smith, to talk about his life and career in the hairdressing industry.

I think certain people have callings. I had a calling from about four or five years old - I know that sounds weird. I knew it was magazines, I knew it was hair, I knew it was women, I was just drawn to the hair. I’m one of five boys - macho, macho people. None of them are artistic, they’re all kind of corporate people and I’m the youngest. If I could raise my two fingers now, I would, because that’s what they did to me, they said: “That’s no job for a man.” I ignored it though, and I did what most people in that kind of situation would do - I went underground. Growing up when I did, you could never say you wanted to be a hairdresser because you’d get beaten to a pulp, and I was brought up in Hackney, East London, and it was very macho then, so I never mentioned it. I kind of buried my dream for a while, whilst still covertly researching it. Inspirational hairdressers for me back in the day, are still around now - which is a testament to their talent - definitely, Nicky Clarke, definitely Sam McKnight and John Frieda - those guys have gone

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on to become big household names. I think the most successful hairdresser in the world is John Frieda. And also, Eugene Souleiman, he’s amazing. He’s been doing some incredible things. I guess these guys were my gauntlets and one of the things I wanted to do and I’ve done it, is to be known for European hair AND Afro hair. When I was training, I incorporated and infused both styles. Back in the day, it was crazy, it was like apartheid. You were either on the dark side or you weren’t. I used to walk into a hairdressers to try and get work and they used to automatically say “Oh, you don’t want to come in here, you want to go to an Afro hairdressers for a job.” If you were white and walked into some areas, say a hairdressers in Dalston or Hackney, they would say “Oh, can’t do your hair.” It’s sad, but now of course if I was backstage, and if I was on TV or a fashion show, I could walk up to a model and they could be of any denomination or nationality. Obviously, that kind of singular approach just doesn’t work you must be able to work with texture.

It would render you obsolete. For me, training people properly with texture is so important. The majority of people who are known in London, and I can say this with conviction, look at successful people and think you have to be London based - but you don’t. If you look at Andrew Collinge, he was based in Liverpool and just kept visiting London - similarly, the Millers who are based in Scotland came to London. You’ve got Jennifer Cheyne who is the same, you’ve got Charlie Taylor, you’ve got Alan Edwards. You’ve got quite a lot of people who have built their names up by moving around. I think it’s essential if you’ve got a small salon or business to dip your toe in the water. With SHABA, that’s what’s great - you’re seeing different names coming through. What’s exciting about this event is watching competitors’ faces and seeing how this is such a massive night for them. The best advice I had was that you must prioritise what you’re doing. Forget all the razzamatazz and the fame stuff — forget it. Build the foundation of your business first, and then go out in the field. What you need to do is ascertain that you’re a local community business and then you obviously have to make sure those people nearby are returning to you. Originally, we started with quite a big lease/shop, but I filled it with the right people, I stayed in my salon, and now we’re 20-years-old. We opened in 1998. To begin with I went into business with my wife, now my business partner is my former accountant, so she knows the business inside out. You have to know what you’re making every day, you have to know your profit margin, you have to know your balance sheets. You have to be able to comprehend and create a business forecast too. You have to build your colour department - you can’t just be cutters and hairdressers - forget that. Colour is 80% of your bills. And just keep working that local business - we’re in

Knightsbridge, and people who know Knightsbridge know us. The strength of our brand relies on the people we employ and their technical excellence. You can come to us and have highlights, a weave, plaiting - we can make you a wig, we can do anything! We don’t turn anyone away. Clients visit us from all over the world, we’re known for cutting - the whole shebang. We’ve got fantastic colourists. We don’t rush you. The salon is run on an appointment only basis, and it really works, we’ve been there for two decades - the brand is worth something. And yes, my parents finally accept all of this now! One of the most flattering moments in my career was a mention on Coronation St. when one of the girls’ in the salon said, “If I could get a job with Errol Douglas.” That went ballistic! In terms of awards and accolades, I didn’t go out to get three letters after my name. It just happened. When it did happen, I was completely shocked. It still bewilders me that it occurred. It’s quite secretive and you don’t know where it comes from, and it’s a long process. Going back specifically to hair awards, well we’re not an accredited industry as such - anyone can open a salon. This is an ongoing burning issue, and personally I don’t agree with it. Qualification-wise, you only really have your NVQ. I would like to see more regulation in the industry, and that’s not because I want to exclude people. I just want to see salons run properly. Certain people don’t patch test for example, there’s a whole can of worms that can be opened when people don’t have the right qualifications, and don’t know what they are doing. SHABA accolades for

example, are saying, you’re a winner, you’re up to a certain standard. I have lots of awards personally, but so does my salon. It’s been awarded honours by Marie Claire, it’s won London Lifestyle awards, and has received global recognition. I think hairdressing awards help recognise a benchmark of who’s around. Social media has been tremendous for our business. If used correctly, social media is a proper vehicle for YOU. Remember I’m Errol Douglas, but I’ve got two brands. One is me, then I’ve got Errol Douglas London. Now I want clients to go to Errol Douglas London, and then my diehards can follow me on @ErrolDouglas1. The traffic on Errol Douglas London, and on our Facebook is enormous, and it’s instant. On Instagram, for example, I can say, we’re doing an introductory colour offer, we’re experimenting with perms again, and we get people in. It’s fantastic that you can see something on social media, order it instantly, and it’s with you within a few days. Looking to the future, I think the future for Errol Douglas is products, it’s always products. We’ve got a few products brewing, an electrical range, but my main focus is to break down barriers and get a proper texture range out, and I don’t just mean products for curly hair, I mean a range for clients from all cultures so to speak. I like what Rihanna’s done with Fenty, in that there’s a shade for everyone. There are not many hair ranges that can do that, where one brand caters for all. Would my career have been different if I’d been white? That’s a good question! I can honestly say, because of the type

of person I am, I would never let anyone taint me with a brush. I’ve simply just had to work hard for everything. Yes, I guess I have encountered racism everywhere in my career, but I haven’t let it rest on my shoulders. But at the same time when you look around - is there a black hairdresser of the year? No. Edward Enninful had a furore surrounding his appointment as the first ‘black’ editor of Vogue. But he should have been judged on his talents and track record, not on his ethnicity. He’s been around forever doing great work. Salons that want to go somewhere have to involve themselves as much as possible in the fashion industry - it helps you recognise trends, and it helps a salon/individual’s visibility, as you always notice who’s getting themselves out there. Certain companies. you can’t just be cutters and hairdressers - forget that. You can’t just rest on your laurels and expect people to come to you, because they won’t. I have to offer something different from Joe Bloggs down the road. Also, you have to remember hairdressing and hair salons aren’t decreasing, they’re increasing. So, if you go to certain areas, you’ll have ten shops in one row, which is a mistake by the landlord of course, but they’re surviving because probably they’re all offering different services nails, colour etc. so it becomes a small community. The physical experience of hairdressing is in the chair, there’s no real virtual experience. The scary part of the industry isn’t AI, it’s all the mobile hairdressers and individuals who aren’t accredited to anyone, and don’t have anyone to answer to. I can go to your house, charge you whatever, burn your hair - never to be seen again! All the random hairdressers that specialise in wedding hair too, the idea of people opting for someone that’s never done their hair before, it’s insane! You’re leaving yourself wide open. We do a lot of business with exclusive hotel chains, and we have a policy that we never travel alone to a client. It just takes me back to my point about industry accreditation and qualifications. I hope to see things change for the better, so standards can remain high across the board.

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SHABA 2018 | BEST MALE STYLIST

Colin McAndrew Medusa managing director Colin McAndrew won Best Male Stylist at this year’s SHABA awards, having previously won Expert Colour Stylist of the Year at the first Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards in 2011. While Colin wasn’t present to collect his award, his absence was for a great cause. Colin competed in a bike ride with other stylists from across Scotland for the cancer charity Bloodwise. As Colin wasn’t able to give his acceptance speech, the first question SalonNV wanted to ask Colin was how it felt winning Best Male Stylist. He said: “I think the awards are going from strength to strength. Every year it’s becoming more meaningful to the industry.” The collection Colin submitted for SHABA entitled ‘Underground’ showcased concepts less structured around the hair, choosing instead to emphasise the backdrops. He said: “We wanted to do something a little darker. We worked hard to create an underground, dirty feel to the imagery, but the models looked perfect.” But what were Colin’s influences in creating ‘Underground’? “I try not to use social media very much. So, I’m more inspired by what’s happening around us,” Colin told us. “We’re lucky that we’ve got shops around Edinburgh in different areas, we see inspiration on the street all the time. I’m much more inspired by street fashion rather than hair imagery.” Colin and Medusa have an incredibly strong brand identity. Honed to a fine point, the Medusa identity is easily recognisable to anyone with even a passing familiarity. Creating imagery that appeals to the sensibilities of their clientele and the industry. “I would definitely say we have always been consistent,” he explained. “Especially with the last four or five collections most people in Scotland would be able to pick out that they’re Medusa. We’ve started honing in a mixture of everything in our imagery that really reflects our brand.” Despite success Colin isn’t looking to expand in 2019, but sharpen the assets already available. Colin wants to focus on the continued success of all five existing Medusa salons. Having opened a new salon this year, ran by SalonNV columnist and FAME Team alumni Peter Mellon. He said: “I want to grow our existing teams. You know, we’ve got five salons so I want to work to make sure every single one of those salons is full to capacity with team members and then naturally create expansion.” Colin even spoke about the possibility of franchising Medusa. Although he admitted this may be something that will come into force in 2020. 24 | SalonNV Magazine

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SHABA 2018 | BEST FEMALE STYLIST

Amy Johnston Regent Corner owner, Amy Johnston was the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards’ Best Female Stylist 2018. On her SHABA win, Amy said: “I was totally blown away. I really wasn’t expecting it. My salon’s only been open for a year, so it feels like a massive achievement. “It’s nice to get the publicity, and it’s amazing knowing how much customer participation there was.” The collection Amy subtitled for SHABA had a distinctly modern and urban flare. The colour work was striking, emboldened further with gorgeous, loose texture throughout the hair. In every image Amy submitted the hair was dressed to perfection, so much so it’s plain to see why she took home Best Female Stylist. However, the essence of the collection is as Amy described ‘day to day and wearable’. Amy actively wanted the models to look exactly the same as they would walking out of her salon. Amy said: “I wanted to create things that in real life would walk out of my salon. There wasn’t anything catwalk or avant-garde — avant-garde isn’t my thing. “My clients are my inspiration, it’s the daily challenge and that’s what I wanted to show. Hair that’s day to day and wearable.” To add a further personal touch to her images, the models were shot at the back of Amy’s Bath Lane salon, Regent

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Corner. The shoot definitely got the neighbours talking, they even wanted to get in on the glamour. With Regent Corner going from strength to strength Amy wants her team to compete in next year’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. Amy told SalonNV the salon isn’t just hers, as she looks to motivate her team to their own SHABA victories next year. Recognising that the mark of a true leader isn’t being the best, but building everyone up around you to be the best.

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SHABA 2018 | BEST TRAINING SCHOOL / BEST BROW ARTIST / HERO PRODUCT AWARD

Epibrow

Epibrow and SUGA SISTA recently won big at this year’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. The UK’s number one eyebrow training academy, Epibrow and waxing brand SUGA SISTA both won gold at Scotland’s premier hair and beauty event. The event which took place on Sunday, September 16 saw the biggest and brightest names in Scottish hair and beauty come together to celebrate the industry. The Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards once again recognised Epibrow’s revolutionary approach to both beauty and training. SHABA18 marked the second consecutive year Epibrow have won Best Training Academy, with previous awards going to former Epibrow academy students. Epibrow has transformed perceptions of the beauty industry by creating ethical products, including a vegan range for the world conscious consumer. Hello Henna Brows have been snapped up by beauty therapists the world over since its launch

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earlier this year, including by celebrity eyebrow artist Elke Von Freudenberg. Just months after the launch of the revolutionary new waxing brand SUGA SISTA, the brand have won the Hero Product Award at The Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards 2018. The Hero Product Award is for new products to the market, chosen by our readers. With the winner chosen based on the quality of their product, packaging and marketing. SUGA SISTA beat out tough competition from OSMO, Fudge Professional, L’Oreal Professional, Goldwell and 30 Minute Tan to take home the gold. The SHABA win demonstrates why the ethical waxing range has been such an industry hit. It’s been a long road to build both brands into the powerhouses they are. Epibrow and SUGA SISTA founder Louise Bannigan told SalonNV: “We were absolutely thrilled and delighted to win these two awards. It means the world to be recognised for all the work we do by industry leaders. “We work so hard as a team to stay ahead of the game, to bring cutting edge courses and products to the market and to be rewarded for all the hard work and effort makes it so worthwhile. Seeing our students progress onto winning their own awards after completing our course is such a sense of achievement for us as a training company.”

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SHABA 2018 | BEST BEAUTY SALON

The Haven Health & Beauty Haven Health and Beauty, Elgin took the title of Best Beauty Salon at this year’s SHABA’s. The Elgin beauty retreat has been open for 19 years, and 2019 will mark their 20th. Haven Health and Beauty beat out fierce competition from salons across Scotland to take home the title. Amy McPherson, who has owned Haven Health and Beauty for six years said: “It feels amazing honestly. Being up against bigger salons from Glasgow and Edinburgh, for a small salon in Elgin to win it was crazy. I couldn’t believe it. “It just shows that smaller salons can win as well because you get it in your head that it’s just bigger salons that win these kinds of awards. It’s good for our little town centre for a salon in Elgin to have won this award.”

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Haven Health and Beauty undoubtedly fly the flag for smaller Scottish salons. Proving location isn’t the biggest factor in creating an incredible beauty salon. To be named as one of the eight finalists in itself is no easy feat. As finalists are based on client votes and competition can be tough against massive salons. A mystery shopper then visited the salon, who saw firsthand the customer care Haven Health and Beauty offer their clients — sealing the salon’s victory. Amy said: “I think it was sort of down to the professionalism and our hard-working staff, as well as the support our clients have given us. “We always try and keep up with all the latest trends to offer our clients new treatments. We don’t have any plans to expand, we just want to keep offering something new.” Not only did Haven win Best Beauty Salon, but team member Mahri McSheffrey won herself and team VIP tickets courtesy of e-chair.com. Amy says she has a few ideas in mind for the salon’s big birthday next year, but with nothing set in stone, we’ll just wait to see how Amy and the Haven Health and Beauty team will celebrate.

Hair: Fudge Professional Photography: Daniel Thomas Smith Makeup:Â Â Neoko Styling: Rachel Anderson

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Hair: Fudge Professional Photography: Daniel Thomas Smith Makeup:Â Â Neoko Styling: Rachel Anderson

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Hair: Fudge Professional Photography: Daniel Thomas Smith Makeup:Â Â Neoko Styling: Rachel Anderson

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The Social BY KY WILSON Each decade births new trends and ideas in the hair and beauty industry. With the world at its most accessible there are infinite possibilities for hair professionals. More people in the industry are turning freelance. An estimated 51% of hair professionals in the UK are self-employed as more and more seek the freedom of being their own boss.

stablished in 2015 by hairdressing entrepreneur Ky Wilson, The Social was built as a space to develop the freelance community. Yet the space is not only for hairdressers, but a hub for many creative talents. The Social was born simultaneously in the Lake District and London. The Social London started in Clapton, where Ky built a room within a warehouse unit as a raw, yet high-end three chair salon. He installed the electric, plumbing and an illustrator drew all over the walls. Truly living The Social, he also slept above the backwash on a mezzanine. Attracted to unusual locations, the London site was situated in a victorian tram depot, where many driven independent businesses thrived. Florists, gyms, a brewery, cafes, photo studios as well as residential all under the same roof. It might seem strange for a hairdresser to open a multidisciplinary space. But, inviting a spectrum of talented creatives to be part of The Social fuels Ky. “I’m not massively inspired by the hair industry,” he told SalonNV. “I’m inspired by the communication of people. If someone’s passionate about something I buzz off it. I then incorporate what I learn back into the industry.” Ky developed the business model for The Social three and a half years ago, but admitted hairdressers weren’t ready for his vision. The idea was a slow burn within the UK hair industry, but has quickly become an industry norm. He said: “This year has been absolutely nuts, the number of freelancers who use this space is incredible. There’s a massive array of talented creatives working within The Social building their own businesses — and we all help each other. It’s creating this sort of cult culture that allows everyone to develop in their own way.” With such an eclectic space, there could be fears of too many cooks for the broth. However, Ky never worries and sees The Social’s other creatives as added bonuses. He told SalonNV: “We’ve hosted music events, yoga classes and there’s a florist who wants to come in over Christmas. Essentially, it’s a salon with added extras. That’s the beauty of a consumer service, we have to adapt because otherwise, it becomes mundane for everyone. “ While the surroundings took time to flourish, Ky’s concept of a communal heart for creatives is going from strength to strength. Ky puts the growth in the freelance sector down to changes of attitudes in the UK. He said: “Now people want a little more freedom because they want to do session work, as well as clients and educate.” The Social exists to facilitate this desire. To encourage the freelance community to reach for the

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highest possible standards. Ky believes that there will be a massive peak in the freelance sector. Not limited to the hair and beauty industry but across many creative industries. As hair professionals are open to learning and educating at a global level, spaces like The Social will become crucial to this creative growth. Ky’s concept of a communal space for freelance creatives correlates perfectly with new chair and space rental platform e-Chair.com. These tools exist purely for the freelance hair professionals and creatives seeking to solidify their brand, build an international reputation or create more editorial work. With the self-employed sector constantly expanding The Social and e-Chair will become crucial in making these connections and fulfilling dreams. “e-Chair is a stepping stone for what I’m doing now. It’s a platform that I could use to promote and advertise space communally where the freelancer could book,” Ky said. “Platform artists who are travelling might not always have connections within the cities they’re in. So, they can be using e-chair to work and make more connections.” Ky’s The Social promotes a diverse range of creative freelancers, and as such, is open to further experimentation as well as innovative approaches to our understanding of the hair and beauty industry. The more Ky continues to push the boundaries the more he can push the creativity of our industry into a new era.

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Nailco N AI L B AR N

ailco Nail Bar recently won Best Nail Bar sponsored by the Gel Bottle at this year’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. Not only this, but Nailco opened their second salon in Aberdeen this month. But the opening was not without hardship. Nailco Aberdeen is proof of a triumph over adversity — a true underdog story. Damage caused by a large fire on Glasgow’s Sauchiehall street left Nailco Glasgow flooded and in need of refurb and repair. At that moment Nailco owner Jayd Linney, decided it was simultaneously time for Nailco Aberdeen. She said: “We set up in a hotel function room a minutes’ walk away from the salon and we didn’t cancel a single client. We found out about everything around 8 pm on Thursday and by 9 am Friday it was business as usual — we didn’t let it take us down. It didn’t cross my mind for a second that we would close. It wasn’t an option. “We’ve worked so hard to build up our brand and reputation. Some people might think ‘it’s only nails’, but it’s not. People have weddings, they have commitments, it’s a luxury people make time for. So, we couldn’t let them down.”

The fire, which started at a nearby nightclub, would set any other business back but only fueled Jayd. She used the knowledge of the refurb process while it was fresh in her mind to begin planning her Aberdeen site. Jayd’s ambition is to open seven Nailco salons in seven years. With the Glasgow site being open over a year, Jayd stuck to her plan and picked Aberdeen. “I have another business in Aberdeen,” Jayd told us. “I lived in Aberdeen for quite a few years, the Aberdonian people are very supportive and they can tell when something has been invested in them.

“It’s a luxury people make time for. So, we couldn’t let them down.” “We’ve been inundated with messages and we’re fully booked so there’s a lot of hype and positivity surrounding us. And rightly so, Aberdeen’s a major city but I think it gets overlooked and the people of Aberdeen like to take care of themselves, they want to be involved in the same things as all the bigger cities.” Jayd doesn’t have a background in the beauty industry. Instead, she works to revolutionise the way that people view nail salons. She said: “I wanted Nailco to be high-end but I wanted the price to be accessible and I wanted it to be friendly.”

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This dedication to people is exactly why Nailco won Best Nail Bar. The salons have an attitude that separates them from the rest. When Jayd established Nailco she set about creating a professional environment. Yet one where a customer can walk into and feel as if they’re visiting old friends. Her idea of a nail and beauty ‘social club’ starts with a warm welcome and a compilatory drink from their menu. However, it’s the interactive elements introduced by Nailco we should celebrate. iPads connected to the Nailco Instagram, allowing customers to browse for the styles they want to recreate. Inspiring and Instagrammable quotes adorn the walls,

Nailco even offers fortune cookies which dispense positivity. “When people arrive in a new city, I don’t want them to ask ‘where’s the nearest nail bar?’” Jayd said. “I want them to ask ‘where’s the nearest Nailco?’” Jayd now looks to continue building her nail empire, with a salon planned for Edinburgh and a second site for Glasgow. Long may Nailco and their incredible services and ethos continue to grow.

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JOIN THE MAGO REVOLUTION

WHY CHOOSE MAGO? • Mago is the kindest hair extension method on the market. Heat, metal and chemical free. • Light weight and low maintainance, knot based hair extensions • Full kit, colour ring and practice hair included

20% OFF

Our 2019 Academies if booked before 31st Jan 2019!

WAS £499 • NOW £399.20 2019 TRAINING DATES Manchester - March 18-19 • Liverpool - March 20-21 Scotland - May 14-15 • London - June 10-11 • Bristol - June 12-13 Birmingham - Sep 16-17 • London - Nov 4-5 For in-salon training contact enquiries@magohair.co.uk

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The Magic of Mago M AGO H AIR E X T E N S ION S Join the Mago revolution A revolution in hair extensions has arrived in the UK and is transforming the lives of both stylists and their clients. Mago hair is the stuff of Gods. Donated by supplicants in India’s temples, the hair is hand selected by expert agents and brought to Korea, the home of Mago Hair. A single bundle then takes a month to process and prepare for use. We’re talking absolute luxury! The brand is named after the Korean goddess of natural beauty (to save you Googling her) and since Mago’s inception in 2008 word has spread. America, Italy and Scandinavia have discovered the magic of Mago and now these natural, ethically-sourced strands of gorgeousness have reached our shores. Mago UK is the sole UK distributor of the patented knot-based system and have already converted the cast of the hit West End show Mamma Mia! The lead stylist was blown away by how easy the extensions are to fit and by the quality of the hair. Shakespeare himself would be punching the air, as Mago has breathed new life into his characters at the Globe Theatre! So, what’s the secret? Well, like all great ideas, it’s simple. The Mago knot. No chemicals, no heat, no sweat. A simple looper slides the pre-tied knots into place, a strand of string is given a tug and that’s it - the extension is attached. Every time the client washes their hair the knots self-tighten. The client’s hair can be coloured and cut with no bumps or lumps. Mago comes in four different lengths and a standard colour ring of 26 colours and salon ring boasting 69 colours. A swag-bag of beauty. Commercial director Maddie Pearce says: “As a new brand we are constantly learning and evolving. We are keen to start as we mean to go on with regards to the highest customer service, education and support and undoubtedly the very best quality hair. “We also endeavour to be as ethically conscious as possible with everything from how our hair is sourced to our packaging and are already in the process of reducing our plastic usage and hope to be plastic free in the near future.” So, how can you re-fashion the future? Because EVERYONE wants beautiful hair extensions, but in the 21st century no one wants metal beads and chemical solvents to achieve their dream. The answer is Mago! Mago run six academies a year across the country for qualified stylists — learn how to fit Mago and join the Mago revolution! Check out our website for more details.

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Fellowship News

F.A.M.E. TEAM AT FASHION WEEK The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s F.A.M.E. Team assisted Eugene Souleiman backstage at Paris Fashion Week. The F.A.M.E. Team’s year is coming to an end, but before they hand over duties to the new 2019 team in December, they had one last extra special trip – Paris Fashion Week for the Spring/Summer 2019 shows, thanks to ghd Professional. Team mentor Nick Irwin had arranged the experience with acclaimed session stylist, Eugene Souleiman. This was the ultimate opportunity for the team to get backstage and learn from the very best in the business in the very best environment. The team were invited to assist Eugene at three of the most exciting shows in Paris: Thom Browne, Yohji Yamamoto and Maison Margiela. ghd Professional supplied each artist with a kitbag. The mega-brand also covered travel and accommodation to ensure the team had the ultimate fashion week experience. The week began at Maison Margiela; now in the inspiring hands of John

Galliano. In contrast to previous seasons, the hair was natural and undone. Shapes through the top of the head were kept flat but with a fluid, wet look. While the looks varied there was an element of uniformity through texture. There was a clear concept of gender fluidity within the hair, which was used to emphasise the androgyny of the collection. Next up was Yohji Yamamoto, where hair consisted of serrated and accentuated sections with a mixture of solid and gritty textures. Each look varied slightly according to the model’s hair length, density and style. Most of the looks had one side styled very sleek and the other side with protruding, serrated shapes to create a strong contrast. Finally, it was Thom Browne, where uniformity in the hair was key, coupled with striking with a sabre-like ponytail. The sectioning pattern was simple, yet cleverly placed, to ensure everything worked together appropriately to create the shape. Team member Katie Prescott said: “Our time at Paris fashion week was absolutely incomparable. We got the chance to see Eugene’s process of creating his looks firsthand and it’s clear that he is a true artist with an incredible passion for hair and a way of inspiring future creatives in the industry. It was a huge privilege to

be part of the team for the three shows in Paris and experience the incredible energy and buzz backstage.” Ellie Bond added: “Being able to observe Eugene at work was mind blowing; I could watch him for hours. His attention to detail and creativity inspires me and I feel like I have learnt so much from him and his team over the week. He doesn’t just create hairstyles, he creates art. “As much as I loved assisting backstage at the shows, I’d say my favourite day was at the Margiela test. It was mind-blowing to see the standard of preparation, the attention to detail and focus. It was an incredible insight into what actually goes into getting ‘the look’. “I absolutely love our new tools from ghd Professional, especially the new platinum plus stylers – more than essential for creating the looks backstage, especially at Yohji Yamamoto. “We can’t thank Eugene enough for inviting us out to Paris with his team, to ghd Professional for sponsoring us, to our mentor Nick and his wife Stacey and the Fellowship for making it happen! We’re very blessed to have so much support in helping us achieve our dreams.”

THE LOOKS

Yohji Yamamoto

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Thom Browne

Maison Margiela

Fellowship News

SALON INTERNATIONAL Salon International brought a host of hairdressing talent together for three days of interviews, presentations and auditions on the Fellowship stage.

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing stage is always at the heart of Salon International, and this year was no exception with three full days of shows, presentations, interviews and auditions taking place. As one of the biggest events in the Fellowship calendar, Salon International was the perfect platform to showcase the talent of its members. In a first for the Fellowship, the Live Lounge came to Salon International, allowing members and friends of the Fellowship to be interviewed live on stage. An array of guests took to the hot seat for chats on all aspects of the industry and how the Fellowship has supported them throughout their careers.

Fellowship President Karine Jackson proved the perfect interviewer, with added support from other members of the council including Ken Picton, David Drew, Andrew Smith, Edward Hemmings, Simon Tuckwell, Mark Creed and Simon Shaw, who all took their turn presenting the Live Lounge and Fellowship stage over the weekend. The weekend provided a packed schedule of entertainment with something for everyone. From barbering demonstrations and Afro-presentations to haircut, colour and styling techniques from a star-studded lineup. The lineup included such diverse names as Manifesto, Alan D, Burban, Rush, Brandon Messinger, Simon Tuckwell, Anne Veck, Sarai Hair and Beauty, Gary Baker, Lewis Moore, Natalie Newton, Johnny Scissors, Chris Foster, Wayne Shorter-Campbell, Jamie Stevens, Barber Barber, Academy Salons, Jordanna Cobella, Roman Sys, David Rae, TH1, Zoe Williams, Debbie G, Robert Masciave, Isaac Verral, Marle Lamont, Natasha Rose, Patrick Cameron, Jamie Benny, Marc Antoni, Karoliina Saunders, Guy Kremer, Sassoon, Rush, Tracey Devine Smith, Jonathan Andrew, Matt Gavin, Junior Green and HOB Salons.

Fellowship sponsors also took advantage of the chance to shine on stage, with shows from the Wella Generation NOW team, Unite, Paul Mitchell Artistic Team, Rick Roberts for Matrix, Simon Webster and James Earnshaw for Cloud 9, Mazella & Palmer for Goldwell, Trevor Sorbie Art Team for Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oreal Professionnel, Sam Burnett for KMS, Hooker and Young for Schwarzkopf Professional, Rory McPhee and AJ Blackadder for Redken and Tony Wood for Goldwell. International artists were also on hand to showcase the global community fostered by the Fellowship, with the Australian F.A.M.E. Team and the Chinese Art Team taking to the stage over the weekend. In true Fellowship style, the support for the next generation of talent attracted the crowds. The Fellowshipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ClubStar Art Team, Project X, Step Up and Shine scholarship and Colour Project was all on over the weekend. While the F.A.M.E. Team presented collections, as well as enjoying an interview in the Live Lounge. Auditions for the 2019 team with the final nail-biting stages of the process took place live on stage. The eight finalists, tasked with demonstrating a live hair-up look, before returning to the stage to showcase a pre-prepared look. All while the judges looked on and made their tricky decisions. The winners will be announced at the Fellowship Luncheon, which takes place on Monday 3 December.

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SALON INTERNATIONAL 2018

RUSH Live

USH Live was a major highlight of Salon International, hosted at the Salon Live theatre, inspiring and educating attendees. For the past eight years, the team at Rush Hair have been raising invaluable funds for GOSH. As co-founder and joint CEO, Stell Andrew reiterated in his opening speech: “Tonight is all about helping to save children’s lives.” Stell went on to introduce Farah from GOSH, who spoke about how the vital funds raised are used and how over the years they have helped so many. Stell then welcomed International creative director, Andy Heasman and academy director, Adam Bryant to the stage. As the current British Hairdressing Awards Artistic Team of the Year, Andy set the scene for the evening and Adam spoke about Rush Academy’s journey to celebrating its first anniversary. From international groups to training hundreds of Rush hairdressers, Adam concluded: “It’s the creative hub of the brand.” As Andy and Adam left the stage a video introduced Rush’s latest collection, Obsession.

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Andy returned to the stage with Rush International colour director, Chris Williams, where they presented models from Obsession. Detailing the inspiration behind the collection to the captivated audience. Andy said: “Obsession is to be different, to make a statement and be individual.

With Obsession, we are eclectically mixing fashion and hair, creating juxtapositions inspired by the youth and uniqueness of subcultures.” “Culture in its various guises is our Obsession. Within every culture there are various subcultures to be observed, recognised and appreciated by

onlookers,” Chris added. “The subculture is a new movement, a merging of tribes referred to as the ‘gathering’. Neither hipsters nor part of the in-crowd, they derive from ravers, goths, emos, greasers, new romantics and bubblegum.” Andy concluded: “Obsession is about fusing individuality – creating subcultures – mixing punk with folk, ghetto with new romantic, genderless with masculine and feminine. Strong statement ghetto

tramlines with graphic panels or stand out colour, this collection merges the tribes of Urban Street and fuses subcultures. Individuality is our Obsession – the cool is in the contrast.” Chris then brought the Rush Colour Team on stage who demonstrated a wide array of technique and colour placement. Underpinning their work was a contrast of colour from very light colours, toned with peaches and pastel tones or deep dark and inky shades with a vinyl-like shine. Colour placement and varying tones added texture to the hair, which was enhanced by the cutting techniques of the Rush Artistic and Workshop Teams. Another video brought Obsession to life and Andy introduced the Rush Artistic and Workshop Teams to the stage. Individuality was very much at the fore of this section. Hidden panels, tram lines and use of the hair’s natural texture to create bespoke shapes provided the audience with a feast for the eyes. Stand out shapes and curls that brought hair to life were the team’s Obsession. After the team presented their models, the stage went dark and a lone spotlight tracked Andy who brought on stage a model with long, tousled blonde

hair. He began dramatically freehand cutting his model’s waist length hair. As Andy left the stage, Chris returned working freehand like a graffiti artist, spraying the model’s hair with colour, intensely at the roots, fading as he went out - individuality at its finest, a true juxtaposition of cut and colour. The final session was full of beauty, drama and individuality. The Editorial and Session Team, led by Tina Farey, brought to life models inspired by the Popovy Sisters. Creators of bespoke dolls with couture clothing and individual hairstyling, the team showcased avantgarde hairstyling at its finest – anti-head shapes created with braids along with super short fringes, extreme length pompoms, tassels with an ethereal beauty – everything is possible in the world of Popovy Dolls. As the team left the stage the dolls were left on stage for a beautiful presentation introducing even more dolls with the most creative hair. The evening finished with all 32 models taking to the stage in a catwalk presentation. Andy Heasman thanked sponsors L’Oréal, iSalon, KMS, Maletti, Balmain, and Hairdressers Journal. As well as the audience for helping to raise funds for such a worthy cause. He said: “Tonight, was about raising money for a great charity, the Great Ormond Street Hospital, as well as sharing our creative ideas with you. ”

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PATRIC K CAMERON

atrick Cameron, a worldrenowned long-hair specialist was the showcase mentor at the latest 360° event this month. The live hair demonstration took place in Edinburgh’s King Khalid building, located in the Scottish capital’s Surgeons Quarter. The venue, a sympathetically converted church, originally named St. Michaels, was modern and inviting. The rafters in the 158-seater auditorium bathed the evening in a sense of awakenment; an experience shared between 90 fans and hair professionals. All of whom looked to gain as much knowledge from the long-hair master as was humanly possible. New Zealand born Cameron has over a quarter-of-a-century’s worth of experience under his belt. Patrick’s impassioned demeanour was plain to see during the VIP reception a little before doors opened. After which, the audience waited on baited breath like a congregation anticipating the word of their minister. Before the show got underway the audience was treated to a video-reel of the looks Patrick would be demonstrating. The video showed Patrick’s attention to detail, a quality that has made him such an inspirational industry figure. Above all else, Patrick Cameron is authentic. From meeting him to Patrick storming the stage there is little change in the man. He began the demonstration ushering in a model with hair extensions. He cited that as extensions are an industry norm you must work with them rather than against. Patrick braided and knotted the hair, creating gorgeous texture. Throughout the presentation Patrick remained energetic. It was no surprise he’s remained at the forefront of the industry for over two decades. He purred, cracked jokes and played off the audience’s energy and admiration. All while he demonstrated how they could add these looks to their salon’s menu, thereby increasing their revenue. This is Patrick Cameron’s passion, he wants nothing more than for hairdressers to make more money. The audience erupted into laughter as he said: “You’ll be surprised how a purr or a pop crosses the international language barrier.”

It was tricky following Patrick even though he broke down his process into slower steps. He made even the most intricate movement appear effortless. In fact, every look Patrick delivered had a meticulous ease. He braided, pinned and backcombed as if the hair was an extension of his hands. The messy bouffant was a stand-out favourite of the SalonNV team. To Patrick’s own admission the incredibly beautiful look was created from a very chaotic base. We watch as the look progressed through the messy backcombing; before morphing into a hive of elegantly textured hair. Following on from his demonstrations, SalonNV had the opportunity to ask Patrick a couple of questions. The exemplary education Patrick showcased at the 360° event isn’t anything new. We asked Patrick when education became the focal point of his career. “I started

Patrick understands that education is power, and his message to anyone who attends one of his seminars is “invest in our heritage to create your future.” working for a company called Alan Paul in the late 80s, and became their Artistic Director, responsible for in-house education,” he said. “It was there that I realised dressing long-hair was not something hairdressers did much, yet there were plenty of clients asking for this service for either weddings or parties. So, I started to teach long hairdressing as part of the syllabus.  Wella saw me perform long-hair classes on a few occasions and they asked me to do some seminars for them.  It all started there.” To those who may have wondered, Patrick admitted there won’t be a dedicated Patrick Cameron salon at this point in his career. He told SalonNV: “My career as a hairdressing educator has served me very well and I don’t think I would have time to concentrate on a salon.” Patrick understands that education is power, and his message to anyone who attends one of his seminars is “invest in our heritage to create your future.”

“Learning a technique is forever, there will always be a point in one’s career when we can draw from that technique,” Patrick said. “The more you learn and the more you challenge yourself, the better your wealth of knowledge and expertise will be, this is the key to a long and successful career.   “I am armed with the knowledge that our industry is changing so much and education is struggling to keep up with young hairdressers thinking they can find all the answers online without spending time attending seminars and educational workshops.” For Patrick education is a transactional process. Requiring two people communicating effectively to push forward. He told us: “I will continue on my journey to bring education to hairdressers who need a little help.” Salon International, which also took place this month saw the launch of Patrick’s new product, the Patrick Cameron Hair Pad. A lover of vintage hairstyles, Patrick told us: “I loved the vintage looks and trends like finger waving and big hair.  It was at this time I invented the Patrick Cameron Hair Pad which revolutionised the way hairdressers tackled backcombing and voluminous hairstyles.  Later came the Patrick Cameron Butterfly Clips, which make finger waving with wet hair and gel a thing of the past.  I am constantly looking at easier ways for the hairdresser to dress long hair.  Gone are the days where they have to set aside two hours in the salon to complete an up-do. “That said, my signature styles like the Patrick Cameron Bouffant and French pleat have stood the test of time and when I look back on 27-years of collections the sleek up-dos are the ones that could grace the pages of any magazine right now.  That is the beauty of learning a long hair skill.  There will always be a time in your career when you will use it and as I said – fashion is a circle.” Educationally Patrick wants to push hairdressers to be their best, to recognise that fashion is circular and ultimately that honesty and self-belief plays a big part in crafting a long and successful career. Check out all of Patrick’s online inspirational education at  patrick-cameron.com

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DavidBARRON Hair: David Barron Photography: John Rawson Makeup: Lan Grealis Wardrobe: Jamie Russell

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P R O D U C T ENVY

EDITOR’S CHOICE

EDITOR’S COMMENT The winter months can be incredibly harsh on your hair and skin. That’s why SalonNV have got a collection of products designed to counteract the cold months ahead. Getting ready for your Christmas party? There’s a lot of goodies in our pages to make you as glam as possible for Christmas and beyond!

Amika Professional The Kure A must for mending over-stressed strands, Amika The Kure Shampoo repairs, restores, and revitalises dry, damaged hair to full health and vibrancy. £21 revolve.com

Nourkrin Salon Formula Hair Growth+ Hair Loss Supplement Hair Growth+ is a clinically proven formula that helps maintain a healthy hair growth cycle. Hair Growth+ is a new exclusive salon formulation with over 30 years of scientific research into Hair Growth Disruption and Proteoglycan Replacement Therapy. £41.00 (90 tablets) salon-services.com

EVO Happy Campers Treat your hair with the new happy campers’ wearable treatment. The even happier, Happy Campers have morphed into a lightweight, daily styling treatment that moisturises, strengthens and protects hair with an added style boost. £21 evohair.com

Sexy Hair Love Oil Healthy Sexy Hair Love Oil Moisturising Oil, enhanced with Mimosa Oil and moonstones, helps smooth and add shine while controlling frizz. It provides moisture, and helps to protect against mechanical and heat damage. Leaving hair, soft, shiny and manageable. £13.45 allbeauty.com

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A choice of two BC Fibre Clinix treatments that connect the inner hair bond for improved resilience and strength, whilst the outer hair structure is sealed for better manageability and shine.

Mowan Megix 10 Thanks to the properties of Megix Fision Keraveg-18 Megix has become a true wellness treatment for hair. Colour that repairs, hydrates and nourishes for revitalised hair. The revolutionary formula acts in just 10 minutes instead of 30-40 minutes, making Megix10 an essential part of any hair colouring servicing.

P R O D U C T ENVY

Schwarzkopf Professional BC Fibre Clinix Tribond Treatment

£7.50 + VAT (100ml) believeinconfidence.com

ariahairbeauty.com

CURLFORMERS Deluxe Pro Glam Up Kit – Spiral Create long, smooth, healthy spiral curls every time with the Curlformers Deluxe Pro Glam Up Kit – Spiral. Includes 20 Spiral Curlformers; 10 dark pink for clockwise curls and 10 dark pink with gold strip for anti-clockwise curls, luxury organza shimmery keep-safe bag, one styling hook and instructions. £17.47 curlformers.com

Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon When beauty sleep is hard to come by, reach for this new night gel-cream. Motion-activated technology releases calming essential oils as you toss and turn — allowing the line-up of active ingredients to do their job, revitalising your skin while you sleep. £72.50 gorgeousshop.com

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P R O D U C T ENVY

HAIR

Indola Strong Mousse

Flip-in Hair

This mousse is designed to create big volume and strong hold for your style whilst a UV-filter, as part of the Pixel Technology, helps to protect against UV-rays.

Available in a spectrum of colours and up to 150 grams in weight – Flip-in Hair are an incredible brand and all of their products are manufactured in the UK.

£8.50 (300ml) hairsupermarket.com

From £30 shop.flipinhair.co.uk

Christophe Robin Cleansing mask with lemon This cleansing mask is detergent-free and is the ultimate in no fuss home haircare. It maintains your colours radiance while deeply nourishing the hair’s fibres. €36 christophe-robin.com

Stay Vibrant Vibrant Sexy Hair Suphate-Free Colour Lock Shampoo Stay Vibrant’s Sulphate-Free Colour Lock Shampoo, is perfect for use as a daily shampoo. It gently removes residue and dirt from hair, while protecting the colour by restoring and healing the follicle. Keep your hair looking as bright as Kim K’s with Stay Vibrant! £13.95 lookfantastic.com

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P R O D U C T ENVY

Id Hair Niophlex Bleach Powder Niophlex Bleach Powder is the brand-new innovative bleach from Id Hair, that does not require any plex or addictives to be used as it is all incorporated. idhair.co.uk

Organic Colour Systems No Limits Hot Pink Join the pink party a worldwide annual campaign involving thousands of organisations, to highlight the importance and further educate people on breast cancer. Not only can you get your hair looking fabulous and funky, but you will be joining the worldwide Pink Party and help raise money to support those affected by breast cancer. £15.95 amazon.co.uk

Joico Daily Care Treatment Shampoo We think there’s no reason a targeted, healing cleanser has to look, feel, or smell like something from the pharmacy. And that’s why Joico’s Treatment Shampoo is incredible - specifically created to help alleviate scalp conditions like dandruff, psoriasis and seborrhoea. The shampoo gently cleanses, adds moisture and handles tough stuff with grace and ease. £10.95 allbeauty.com

Ibiza Hair EX4 Brush This high-quality Spanish brush is made from the most natural materials. Tight boar bristles reinforced with nylon are gentle on the hair while creating great tension for a silky-smooth finish. The cork handle is lightweight for a comfortable grip. £40.40 ibizahair.co.uk

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P R O D U C T ENVY Crazy Angel Midnight Mistress Salon Spray Crazy Angel Midnight Mistress is perfect for those angels seeking a deeper, darker olive tan. Containing 13% DHA, the quick-drying formula glides effortlessly onto the skin, giving you an instant deep glow.

SKIN & MAKEUP

MAC The Beauty Countdown The Limited-Edition Beauty Countdown is the ultimate beauty addict’s advent calendar including all your festive skincare musthaves, party makeup and hair essentials, along with exclusive offers. £150 maccosmetics.co.uk

£9.54 crazy-angel.co.uk

Urban Decay Naked Cherry These 12 all-new shades include of the moment soft mattes and sizzling metallics, ranging from creamy ivory and shimmering rose gold to the most intense black cherry. Perfect for the Christmas party season. £39.99 debenhams.com

Acti-Labs Collagen & Kelp Fondant Collagen & Kelp Fondant is formula rich in marine collagen and kelp extracts. It’s texture instantly offers a special moment of luscious daily body care indulgence. £29.50 acti-labs.com

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Dyson Airwrap With barrels to curl or wave hair, and brushes to smooth or volumise. The Dyson Airwrap™ hair styler applies the Coanda effect - to style hair without extreme heat. £399.99 dyson.co.uk

P R O D U C T ENVY

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

ghd Platinum + Create endless styles with the ghd Platinum+ Styler, the world’s first smart styler that predicts your hair’s needs. Advanced, precision-milled floating plates with high-spec gloss finish provides a smooth, snag-free glide, while the wishbone hinge guarantees perfect plate alignment and enhanced styling control. £175 lookfantastic.com

Hercules Sageman Graduation Comb

Maletti Swivel styling chair This fixed configuration work chair comes in colours; pale grey, anthracite grey, gold. Framing and decorative elements are painted with high density stiff polyurethane. The chair is then upholstered with coloured eco-leather with matching piping to finish. maletti.it

Hercules hair cutting comb glides easily through the hair and precisely arranges the passee in both wet and dry hair for perfect graduation. The comb geometry with flexible yet twist-resistant design enables the greatest precision when cutting contours and transitions. £6.82 parfumdreams.co.uk

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Christmas GIFT GUIDE

‘Tis the season again. Christmas has crept up on us quickly, and with Halloween out of the way it’s time to start thinking about that most wonderful time of the year. But don’t worry if you’re stuck for gifts, the SalonNV team has come up with a list of the very best Christmas gift boxes to inspire you.

NOURISH LONDON Radiance Beauty Collection

The gentle care range rebuilds and replenishes the hair bonds, enhances the colour and helps to maintain the phenomenal blonde results giving maximum shine. The BlondME gift set includes the All Blondes Shampoo (250ml) and All Blondes Mask (200ml).

This super hydrating vegan collection of award-winning products features, rejuvenating frankincense and myrrh, omega-rich oils and collagen boosting tripeptides. This gift box contains Nourish London’s Anti-Ageing Peptide Serum (15ml), Argan Skin Renew Moisturiser (15ml), Radiance Firming Facial Oil (5ml) and the Illuminating Face Shimmer (5ml). Finish with a flourish of gold for a party-perfect look.

£24.40

£30

schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

nourishskinrange.com

Schwarzkopf Professional BlondME All Blondes

SACHAJUAN Hair Perfume Collection Gift for the party season. Add volume and shine to hair with the gently cleansing SACHAJUAN Normal Hair Shampoo. SACHAJUAN’s Hair treatment that will healthy and manageable, silky shine. The star of the set, SACHAJUAN’s Protective Hair Perfume, moisturises, and refreshes hair with fine fragrance, a subtle, to eliminate odour – any style. All products come in perfectly portable sizes. £62 allbeauty.com

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LA BIOSTHETIQUE Travel Botanique Hair The Christmas holidays can’t get any more natural than this. Perfect for any occasion, enjoy La Biosthetique Botanique Pure Nature travel sizes and soak in 100% organic beauty. For travel or simply trying something new, the Travel Botanique set contains Balancing Shampoo (100ml), Gentle Conditioner (50ml), Intense Mask (50ml) and the Luxury Fairtrade Botanique Cosmetic Bag. £23.50 Biosthetique.co.uk

SEXY HAIR Whatever the event, whatever the dress code and whatever the look you’re going for we’ve got your style product sorted! Feel fantastic all night long with our long-lasting, weightless products - get that ultimate Christmas look with Sexy Hair. NEW Healthy Sexy Hair gift pack gives you a sneak peak of some of the products that are launching in January 2019. This pack is for clients who want to give their hair some TLC. This pack has everything needed to condition, moisturise and style to give you salon worthy hair through to the New Year. £34.90

R+CO Time Travel set Travel far and wide with this wellrounded collection of R + Co travel essentials. A must for keeping your hair adventure ready. The gift set contains Death Valley Dry Travel Shampoo, the quickest and easiest way to get volume and body into your hair — best for messy Bardot hair. The Television Perfect Shampoo and Coniditioner and the High Dive Mousiture and Shine Deluxe. £35.50 Randco.com

Smooth Rejuvenator Gift Pack This gift set offers the Kitoko Nutri-Restore Cleanser (250ml), paired with Kitoko Nutri-Restore Balm (250ml), enhanced with botanicals including African Pepper, Green Tea, Fire Tulip and Taramind Karite to strengthen, smooth and maintain tangle free hair. £25.00 (each set) asphair.com

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Dutch Braid by Amy Shnayderman STEP-BY-STEP

Step 1: Prep Apply a few pumps of Fab.ME to dry hair predominantly in the mids-ends and comb through until absorbed.

Step 2: Curl / Wave (add a workable texture and movement to make braiding easier) Section away the top half of the head, taking onetwo inch vertical sections, use a one inch - one Âź inch curling iron or wand and wrap hair around the iron. Curl the hair away from the face. Leave about one-two inches of the ends straight. Separate the curls with your fingertips once cooled.

Step 3: Create a centre Dutch braid (braid spine sits on the outside.) Form three x two inch even sections at the crown. Start to braid with left section being passed under the middle one and over the right one, maintain good tension to keep pieces secure. Continue passing the sections from underneath (as opposed to over in a classic French braid.) Add hair in two-inch sections from the remaining hair to add into the braid. Continue until four-five inches of hair remain and secure with an elastic (you will need extra length to pull on to thicken the braid.)

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TOP TIP: Use POWERDRY.ME to give your hair a 50% faster dry time and a few pumps of FAB.ME to detangle, hydrate and smooth the hair (Both ÂŁ14.95)

Step 4: Thicken / texturize your braid Spray Puff.ME or Puff.ME light (for finer hair) along the spine of the braid to add texture and grip. Blouse the braid by holding the secured tail, pinch and pull gently outward until the desired thickness is achieved. Pull down a few shorter layers around the face and hairline for a softer effect.

Step 5: Accessorise Get creative, add ribbon, twine or cord of choice tied in knots to break up the braid. Add glitter to the curves, tail, and sides of the braid spine using a clean paintbrush or makeup brush (mix glitter with a dollop of light, clear hair gel.) Following the direction of the hair when painting on to keep neat and to enhance highlights and give a playful yet chic sparkle effect.

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Artist Direction: Laurent Voisinet & Latil Pascal Hair:Â Laurent & Carole Voisinet Stylism: Veronique Suchet Makeup: Mariana Miteva Models: Samantha & Ines Photo & Retouch: Latil Pascal Relation Press: ELP Hair Production Products: WELLA France

HOLOGRAPHIQUE by Laurent Voisinet SalonNV Magazine | 61

Bruno ESTATOFF

COVER GIRLS /// Photographer: Bruno Estatoff Hairstylist: Bruno & Yvan Estatoff, Laeticia Bonnand, Laura Sanchez Colourist: Laeticia Bonnand Makeup: Morgane Guillet

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TOP TIP: Finish with a spirtz of ghd Final Fix Hairspray (Â£9.95) and scrunch for added texture.

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Urban Queen by ghd STEP-BY-STEP STEP ONE Prepare the hair using ghd Curl Hold Spray (£12.95) for long-lasting curls.

STEP TWO Section off the hair above the ear, then take a one-inch section and place the ghd Platinum+ Styler (£175) at the root, pointing downward.

STEP THREE Close the plates and rotate the styler 180-degrees to face away from your face. Glide the styler down to the ends at a 90-degree angle, keeping the styler pointing downward.

STEP FOUR Continue on to the next section rotating the styler in the opposite direction. Continue throughout the hair working in sections, alternating the curl for a textured finish.

STEP FIVE On the top front sections, rotate the styler away from the face so that the hair kicks out to frame the face.

STEP SIX Dress out using the ghd Oval Dressing Brush (£20) to break up the curls and add further texture.

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// Column

FROM MEDUSA FAME TEAM

Peter Mellon

It’s been a whirlwind year for Peter Mellon from Medusa Group. A year on the Fame Team coincided with him opening his own Medusa salon in Stockbridge, Edinburgh. But while life as a salon owner is just beginning, Peter’s Fame Team journey is almost over, with the end comes a flurry of activities.

WE WO N... WE W ON ! I should say that three times. At this year’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards (SHABA) Medusa won not just one but three awards. Medusa managing director Colin McAndrew won Best Male Stylist, Ingrid McNabb claimed Best Make Up Artist and I took home Best Salon Design. We were so happy!

TREN DVIS IO N So no win this year but Kat Sloan from Medusa Stockbridge and Fraser McLean from Medusa Teviot still excelled. Medusa is super proud of this pair and none of us can wait for next year. Bring it on!

S ALO N DES IG N O F TH E YEAR Here’s a glimpse of why we won. My salon in Stockbridge, Edinburgh is now six months old. I can’t believe it. This year is going so fast. The best news is it broke even within weeks, and within four months we were in profit. Now, on top of that, we won Salon Design of the Year. 66 | SalonNV Magazine

SHOU T OU T TO CO L I N We told Colin to get on his bike and he did, along with a load of other stylists, and cycled all the way to Paris, raising money for Bloodwise, a leukaemia charity. They smashed their £50k target. Isn’t that incredible? THE K EY TO S UC C ES S FUL LEADERS H IP IS IN FLUEN C E , N OT AUTHO RITY With all the excitement of the Fame Team and the focus on pushing my salon into profit, it’s easy to forget that I’m also team and salon leader. But I have an amazing team, and I’m learning so much every day working alongside them.

J ’A D O RE PA RI S We still can’t believe ghd took us to Paris to assist the amazing Eugene Souleiman for Paris Fashion Week. It went by so fast and there was so much to watch and learn: new techniques, new trends and new colour. I’ve done London Fashion Week before, but this was a totally new experience. Shows included Maison Margiela, Yohji Yamomoto and Thom Brown NY.

D OWN A ND O U T I N PA R I S Even though the week in Paris was full-on we managed to get some downtime. Paris is everything they say it is – chic, cool, fast-paced and historic. I have definitely fallen in love with the place.

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A S SE E N I N H UN G E R MAGA ZI NE The Rankin-shot, Nick Irwin-directed, Babyliss Pro sponsored shoot produced cool images that I will always treasure. Hair by me, Ellie Bond, Katie Prescott and Paddy McDougal.

BES T BI T O F BE I N G I N T HE FAM E T E AM ? Difficult to say. But with beehive barnets, messy bobs and Birkin-esque fringes, shooting with top fashion photographer Rankin was a life-changer. Sponsored by Babyliss Pro with creative direction from Nick Irwin, it was obviously going to be intense. But I didn’t expect it to be fun as well.

BAC K TO WH E R E I T AL L B E GAN That’s a wrap – our last ever presentation as the FAME TEAM 2018 was at Salon International, where it all began at last year’s finals. We worked on the Fellowship stage for three days, bringing everything we had learned and created over the past year to life. It was exhilarating but also sad that I won’t be working with Ellie, Paddy and Kate again. SAY I N G G OODBYE A ND TH A NK YO U AT SA LON I NTE RN ATI ON AL From shows in Australia to photoshoots with Rankin, the incredible opportunities given us by the Fellowship, Babyliss Pro, ghd, all the other sponsors and, of course our mentors Nick Irwin and Andreas Stavrou, have really helped me grow creatively. Our message to anyone considering the Fame Team – GO FOR IT!

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TAKARA BELMONT AD

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// Introducing

FALLON CARBERRY

#BLOW Shawlands BLOW in the Shawlands area of Glasgow is the second salon at the foot of a unique empire. There’s a trend in the industry to follow homogeneous ideas of how a professional hair and beauty salon should look. However, this isn’t the case for BLOW — who have formed their own identity present in every facet of the brand. Established as the big sister to the original BLOW in Finnieston, the Shawlands salon uniquely offers customers delectable afternoon tea for “the ultimate social hair experience”. As well as a brand-new academy poised to become the first of its kind in Scotland. Everything surrounding the BLOW brand is striking. The website and social media are adorned in emboldened colour set against quirky floral patterns. This theme extends across the store, where clients are first met with a burst of colour. All of this is juxtaposed beautifully against the white walls, furniture and flooring The original BLOW is located in the hippest area of Glasgow. Situated between boutiques and social hotspots is the west end branch of BLOW. This is where BLOW founded themselves as one of the coolest locations, creating and refining their social hair experience. Owner Fallon Carberry is a pioneer in the hair and beauty industry — that much is clear. And as of this edition of SalonNV she will writing a column in every issue. But we’re here to introduce the woman herself.

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SNV: How was the opening of the Shawlands salon? FC: With our new second salon in Shawlands you will find the same BLOW concept and vibes. Both are bar themed with our signature quirks, such as our amazing cocktails and popcorn. As Shawlands has more space, we even offer afternoon tea accompanied by our signature #BLOWdry of course! The main difference with Shawlands is it being home to our training academy. There is NOWHERE in Scotland that offers on trend, comprehensive courses. The academy allows us to pass on our trade secrets to salons and stylist alike. SNV: What has been the highlight of your year? FC: There are so many to name but this one stands out for us as it was so recent... We were featured in VOGUE last month as one the Scotland’s HOT SPOTS and we couldn’t contain our excitement. I think everyone would agree that having your name in VOGUE is serious “goals”. SNV: How do you use social media to keep your finger on the latest trends? FC: From being a visual who has an eye for every small detail I love to showcase exactly the amazing styles are created daily in our salons. Think of your Instagram as your own personal portfolio! I think the reason our Instagram has such a huge

following is because BLOW is a vibrant, youthful and fresh salon and this is captured perfectly in our content. Instagram is all about the aesthetic look so we make ours visually beautiful as well as engaging as possible. Oh, and if you haven’t already – follow us @blow_colourbar SNV: You were the first to start the trend of covering roots with glitter, how did it feel when that trend blew up? FC: We created this look one day when on set. One of the models needed her roots done and we thought let’s just cover them in glitter, little did we know it was going to go viral overnight. The frenzy was intensified when global star Miley Cyrus posted a picture of our shoot on her Insta which is followed by 35 million people. We were BLOWN away and that put us on the map as the trend setters in Scotland and we have been living up to that name ever since. SNV: What has been your favourite trend of 2018? FC: THE LOB The LOB is one bang on trend cut that is universally flattering on all hair types. Teamed with the cool girl wave (slight bend in the mids and straight ends) it takes this look from chic to fashionista! Our clients love this look and look great with balayage style colour or platinum blonde. SNV: Do you have any trend forecasts for 2019? FC: BANGS! Bangs are always a good idea especially in 2019. Our inspo is from influencer and model @matildadjerf and Victoria’s Secret Angel, Taylor Hill. Our favourite is a messy, choppy fringe paired with your long natural hair texture... “BANGING.”

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Erin Gavin

LIFE IN LA:

HOLLYWOOD TANS, HORRORS AND IV DRIPS.

e’re now entering award season for film, television and music. It’s a pleasure to say I’ve been invited to the gifting suite for this year’s Emmys. Playing Marilyn Monroe has certainly opened doors for me! These events are like Christmas, people just hand you gifts from their brand — it’s quite something. I can’t even imagine what the likes of Angelina Jolie would get when wee me gets a free weekend trip to Maui! The gifting suite was at the Waldorf Astoria — the latest trendy hotel and LA’s hottest publicists, Peake PR was massively involved. Los Angeles just lights up with parties during award season. For most, the parties are invite-only but the atmosphere in the town is electric all the same. Last year we went to five different parties. I thought I was going to need a liver transplant by the end. Speaking of hangovers... getting an IV drip is all the rage in Hollywood. It’s great for hangovers or if you’re feeling unwell, it makes you feel energised. With Halloween around the corner, LA turns up the volume big time. You’ll no doubt have noticed all the latest horror

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movies at the cinema. I went to the Premiere of EXTREMITY at the famous Chinese Theatre in Hollywood. It’s a must see if you love horror. The director Anthony DiBlasi and I worked together many years ago on a film called Dread. Age is not our friend when it comes to our looks. Getting older can be horrifying for some of us. In LA everyone is about saving their skin and using Fake Bake and a good sunscreen. I wish someone told me to do this years ago before I covered my body in oil and fried myself in my back garden... Since I had the privilege of playing Marilyn Monroe, I went to her latest collection auction in Beverly Hills. I was amazed to see the dresses she wore just hanging in front of me. I could touch the famous white dress she wore in The Seven Year Itch! The one good thing about LA is that anything is possible. Anything! I have recently broken up with my boyfriend. Sometimes we realise that the timing is wrong or we’re just not for each other — worse yet if the trust has gone. We should learn from relationships. I feel it can make you stronger and more certain about what you want and what you don’t.

I’ve noticed that most people in LA are single. It’s a town where people come to fulfil their dreams and a relationship is not really on their agenda. It’s a peculiar place alright. As my girlfriends here would say there are too many Peter Pans! So, the lesson for today... wear sunblock and fake it. And if you come to LA remember anything is possible. You might become the next big thing!

Jason Collier

PINK HAIR 101:

THE TIPS AND TRICKS FOR PRETTY IN PINK LOCKS THIS AUTUMN If you’ve kept an eye on the catwalks this season, you’ll have seen that pink hair was all over the runways, in a palette of shades, from peachy and pastel tones to brighter salmon shades. And this isn’t the only time pink hair has made headlines in 2018; remember Kim Kardashian’s flirtation with fluorescent, flamingo-esque locks earlier in the year? Once considered a no-go unless you were punk; pink hair is definitely in vogue these days, and there is a myriad of shades to choose from. But how do you go from classic colours to a perky pink? Well, I’m here to talk you through the process. Getting pink hair is more complicated than slapping on a home dye. Especially if you want to make your shade permanent or if you have darker hair. In these circumstances, I would only advocate going to a professional colourist in order to achieve the results you’re looking for. It’s never worth risking your hair colour with a home dye! If you have dark hair, you should seek out a specialist colourist whose portfolio you admire, and if they have experience of taking dark hair to light or pastel shades or in ‘creative colour’, that’s all the better. A dark hair base needs to have its pigment completely bleached and stripped in order for the pink colour to take. So, it requires a professional in ‘creative colour’ to lift your natural tone with minimal damage to the hair. It’s a big job and it won’t be an inexpensive one. But with hair colour, I always find that you get what you pay for, and a specialist colourist is worth every penny. So, how do you go from your natural hair shade to perfection in pink? The starting point is to choose your hue of pink and work out which shades suit you best. A warm, coral-pink might not flatter a cool complexion, whilst an icy candyfloss might be at odds with an olive skin tone. Those with cooler skin tones should look to violet or blue-based

pinks, such as fuchsia or magenta. Whilst those with a warmer complexion should choose orange or yellow-based pinks to flatter their skin tone. If you’re unsure, your colourist should be able to walk you through what shades would suit you best. So, your colourist has applied your dye and you’ve left the salon with box-fresh pink hair and you can’t wait to show off online. But, what’s next? Pink, like many other bright, nonnatural colours, fades at hyperspeed, meaning that a few weeks in, your colour will have faded considerably from the initial salon shade. To prolong your colour, keep your hair as healthy as possible; snip off split ends regularly, and steer clear of heat styling as much as you can. Leave your hair to air-dry as often as possible and try tricks such as braiding overnight to achieve soft waves, rather than using tongs or heated rollers. But, aftercare doesn’t stop there. Washing your hair is one step of the beauty regime we don’t even think about — it’s just automatic. But, when you have pink hair, you really need to start paying attention to what your hair needs. Start by washing your hair less frequently; every wash will reduce the colour and fade your shade quicker. When you’re washing your hair, lower the temperature — hot water strips colour faster, so

dial it down and use a cooler water temperature on your hair. Alongside this, wash your locks with sulphate-free shampoos and conditioners designed specifically for coloured hair. They will intensely hydrate and nourish cuticles, preserving your shade, instead of stripping the colour prematurely. Ask your colourist for a ‘glazing’ treatment, which you can use in the shower to freshen up your colour, to lock it into the strands and keep hair nourished and shiny. Using a ‘glaze’, even once a month will extend the life of your colour and reduce the need for frequent salon appointments. You can either get a ‘glaze’ in the same shade as your pink, if you want to preserve the colour and resist a faded hue, or you can opt for a shine-enhancing clear gloss, which won’t brighten your shade or restore it to its freshly-dyed glory but will keep it looking healthy. It’s inevitable that your pink hair will fade, but the key to enjoying your hair, in whatever hue, is to embrace it. Yes, you might have lusted after fiery fuchsia and now your hair is more pastel princess, but it doesn’t mean that it can’t still be fabulous. Embrace your shade and rock it with pride – pink hair is fabulous in any shade!

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// Column

EMIL McMAHON

It’s time to change Last month I looked at in-salon training and its impact on salons. Whilst striving to be as creative as possible, it is becoming more apparent that salons have to change if they want to stay ahead of the game and remain relevant. That’s why training has to evolve and it’s also why salons have to develop as well. Yes, I fully accept that conventional training has its place, we all (myself included, and I don’t hair-dress these days) need constant updates on our core skills, from cut to colour to communication, each has to change and move with the times. Now though we need to respond to the changes happening in our shopping areas, be it a high street, in the city centre or a shopping street in suburbia. Shops of all shapes and sizes are struggling to entice people through their doors. As online shopping becomes ever more popular and easier to do, we have less reason to leave the house and go to the shops. Add to that the continuing growth in home hairdressing and the footfall passing salon doorways decreases more and more.

Key Points • Focus on better communication that is more specific to your client and their lifestyle. • Tell them about everything you use on their hair, they are all hungry for information and advice. • Create a story about their hair that builds as each product is used. • Engage the client as and when you use a product, talk about current trends, look at colour changes, each of these are great ways of keeping your client interested in coming to your salon. • Offer new and exciting products and services that constantly add interest to your clients visit. • Broaden your retail offering, carry ranges that suit all budgets, entry level products are a must have these days as are high end designer brands.

It’s inevitable that some clients will decide to change how they get their hair done. With the onslaught of YouTube videos showing you how to colour hair yourself in every possible way, including correction, there are people who are prepared to give it a go themselves. Plus, the colour ranges available to the mass market are much easier to use. Retail products have seen a huge surge in supermarkets and chemists with some brands that offer exceptional quality at a lower cost than salon ranges. There are also a lot more high-end brands available as well. Add the inevitable online shopping experience, which lots of your clients now buy into and all of these changes put pressure on salons to stay afloat. That’s why I advocate a change in what training is delivered and why.

• Add additional products that are hair related, clips, accessories, brushes, combs, dryers etc to your retail offering. • Wherever possible look at introducing other items that create a different feel to your retail space, jewellery, scarves, bags etc all add interest for your clients. • Make your salon a destination, somewhere that offers lots of reasons to come to you, that naturally includes refreshment offerings, nail bars, beauty rooms, spray tan, the list goes on, but you have to decide what works for your environment, things that add to your business and keep it fresh and exciting for your clientele. Emil McMahon offers bespoke in-salon and collective training. Email: Emil_mcm@hotmail.com Phone: 07885985843

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la collection

VALKYRIA Coiffeur Artist Director: Eric Maurice Coiffeur Ambassadeur:Â Jacques Seban Makeup: Clementine Jarraud-Toledano Photos & Scenographie: Latil Pascal Creation Stylisme: Ludovic Winterstan Assistant Stylist: Lucas Dupont Retouch: Emilie Desmeules & Latil Pascal Team Eric: Elisa Belmonte, Amandine Zachary, Romain Maurice Communication & Conception Artistique: ELP Hair Production

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GHOST

by Elie Valiere Hair Concept: Elie Valiere Stylism: Caroline Bonnin Makeup: Alexande Gloaguen Model: Marie Taylor Photo & Retouch: Latin Pascal Relation Press: ELP Hair Production Products: Eugene Perma Paris

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Stephen Farrar

IN THE CHAIR SPONSORED BY

IN THE CHAIR WITH E-CHAIR.COM IS A N E W F E AT U R E G R A C I N G O U R PA G E S . EACH ISSUE SALONNV BRING YOU SHORT INTERVIEWS WITH SOME OF T H E B E S T I N T H E I N D U S T R Y. ALL SPONSORED BY E-CHAIR.COM. Stephen Farrar owns a bespoke barber and salon chair company. He creates customised chairs for hair and beauty creatives looking to give their space a personal touch. Stephen has even kitted out a real-life e-chair, which was present for all to see at the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. It was incredible to see it in the flesh and for everyone to use for their photo opportunities. Established in 2008 Custom Belmont specialise in the innovation, restoration and refurbishment of the world-famous Belmont chair. They work with all aspects of the restorations right from the start until the installation of the chair. We asked Stephen what his favourite project was and where he foresees Custom Belmont going. SNV: What has your favourite project been? SF: My favourite project was a personal project, a chair I branded with the Suavecito pomade brand, and the e-chair of course! SNV: When did you get the idea for customising Belmont chairs? SF: The idea came from me being a fashion designer and collecting modern furniture and design classics. I picked up my first ever barber chair from an antiques fair. I refurbished it to keep then decided to sell it later, I sold it on eBay for a profit and put the same advert on the next week. From that advert I was contacted by the curator of the Tate Modern and they

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commissioned me to complete three barber chairs for an installation by an American artist. A celebrity barber bought the chairs from the installation and Custom Belmont was born. SNV: What are your biggest inspirations? SF: Being from a fashion background obviously fashion trends, prints, patterns, textures and colours etc. I get inspiration from anybody creative, whatever the field. SNV: What is the best advice anyone has given you? SF: To work for myself, set my own business up and be my own boss! SNV: What can we expect from Custom Belmont in 2019? SF: In 2019 expect new designs and ideas. I’m always evolving and pushing the detailing to the highest possible levels. Possibly a clothing line too and maybe a barbershop to complement the brand. SNV: If you could work on any project what would it be? SF: I’d love to work with a fashion brand who also sell hair products, David Beckham’s House 99 for example. SNV: What is something no one knows about you? SF: I have a collection of designer chairs that are design classics. SNV: What do you have left on your bucket list? SF: I’d love to do a parachute jump!

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