SalonNV Issue 24 by Gallus Media

SALONNV ISSUE 24

SALON John Rawson Jonathan Andrew LFW

SPRING 2019

SHOWCASE

Hair: Rainbow Room International Photography: John Rawson

Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Head Writer Matthew McLaughlin | Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Manager Kat Heron Design & Marketing PrintNV | Thanks: John Rawson, Jonathan Andrew and Fudge Professional, Salon Services, Barber Society Live, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, The Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, e-chair.com, Fallon Carberry, Sam Hendry, Sharon Malcolm, ghd, BaByliss PRO, Electric London, Rob Forgione and Denis Kovalyov of My. Haircare, Paddy McDougall and Indola, Katie Hellier MUA, Cool Blades, Live True London, Suzie McGill, Takara Belmont, Hair & Beauty World, Elemis, Barbercide, Steve Bowbottom of Westrow, Helena Linsky of Q61, Linton & Mac, Philipp Haug of TONI&GUY, Jason Collier, Essence PR, LWPR. Columnists: Jason Collier | Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 5 Newton Place, Glasgow G3 7PR Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and Gallus Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. ÂŠ Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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Hair: Rainbow Room International Photography: John Rawson

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CONTENTS

I S S U E 24

John Rawson

Fellowship

Products

Schwarzkopt

Bridal hair trends

SHABA

Bridal Showcase

Jonathan Andrew

Wedding nails & beauty

#BLOW Valentine’s look

Linton+Mac bridal hair

Micro Fringe

Social media

LFW

Self-employment

My. Haircare

Jason Collier

Paddy McDougall

Instagram showcase

Katie Hellier

New to e-chair.com

Live True London

In the chair

News

Editor’s Comment 2019 is already flying in and registration for SHABA has opened, so make sure you get your name in before April. The excitement for SHABA is already building in the SalonNV office, and we’re excited to share as much information as we can with now... but this is only the beginning. As it’s ramping up to wedding season it’s great to see all the trends set to walk down the aisle this year. Some of the best in the industry offer their advice on the hair, makeup, and nail trends you can offer your clients ahead of the summer rush—not to mention the brilliant showcase images. Have you been paying attention to the catwalks? London Fashion Week has once again shown the incredible results hair and fashion creatives can achieve together. From ghd and Preen to BaByliss PRO and Matty Boven, we’ve chosen our favourite shows from LFW to showcase the very best in fashion-forward hair. This month SalonNV sat down with renowned photographer and former Alan International artistic director, John Rawson. John has a

Enjoy!

slew of trophies to his name and a passion for creating images— having captured many of the UK’s most iconic collections in his two decades as a photographer. Jonathan Andrew talked about his recent appointment as a global brand ambassador for Fudge Professional, as well as starting Jonathan Andrew Education, and Rainbow Room International’s Paddy McDougall chats with us about the Indola Street Style shoot in Barcelona. Finally, In The Chair this month we’ve got the artistic director of Rainbow Room International, Suzie McGill. But this is only a sample of the content in SalonNV, so sit back and enjoy everything we’ve prepared for you.

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS Akito Scissors launch fundraising campaign for paralysed stylist

Great Lengths new campaign Great Lengths, a world leader in premium, ethically sourced hair extensions has unveiled its latest campaign—HAIR LIKE YOU. The latest campaign focuses on the bespoke services Great Lengths can offer everyone. HAIR LIKE YOU means hair can be completely customised according to the needs of each client. Great Lengths is on a mission to educate people on how extensions can help provide a natural enhancement and address common hair problems. As we know, over time hair weakens as a result of many factors including styling, weather, colouring, and the natural ageing process. Great Lengths aim to help restore the look of what has been lost, naturally, and help women feel more confident. Through this new approach, the company aims to change the concept of extensions in the mind of the consumer making hair extensions appealing to every woman.  Whilst remaining a popular trend, gone are the days where extensions are used solely to add length.

P URE Spa & Beauty launch new outlet PURE Spa & Beauty has launched a new PURE Spa outlet in London, on February 18 2019. Located within the luxurious boutique Lansbury Heritage Hotel in Canary Wharf, the new outlet is the second PURE Spa in London and the ninth in the UK. The central location, combined with extended opening hours, affordable prices, and easybooking technology makes it possible for everyone to benefit from regular health and beauty treatments, a priority in today’s increasingly stressful society. PURE CEO and founder Becky Woodhouse said: “We are very excited to be opening our second London spa, in the beautiful Lansbury Heritage Hotel. “With so many people working, living, and visiting the Canary Wharf area, it’s a perfect location for PURE’S range of luxurious yet affordable spa and beauty services.” The treatment menu has every beauty solution, from the quick and convenient, to the deservedly indulgent. PURE Spa at the Lansbury Heritage Hotel brings a sense of wellbeing to the heart of the city. Becky Woodhouse continued: “Our first London spa opened in late 2017 and has proven that there is strong demand for PURE’s

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Akito Scissors has launched a campaign to help raise £56,000 for a paralysed stylist’s treatment. Mitch Chalmers was left unable to walk after a motocross accident in 2014. More and more clients are turning to Great Lengths to help combat real hair issues including thinning hair, filling sparse areas, adding volume, colour, and depth without causing damage to the hair with chemicals and dyes. Fabio Massimo Antonino, CEO of Great Lengths International said: “We want to become an effective enabler to let women finally have the hair they deserve. “We have brought it right back to Italy, where Great Lengths originates, to create a beautiful new campaign which will portray the new path we are taking our clients down in 2019.” CEO of Great Lengths UK & Ireland, Joscelin McCourt said: “The new campaign is about resonating with our current clients and future clients, as well as our salons and stylists, so they recognise that with Great Lengths, natural and beautiful hair and styles can be achieved every day.” services in the city.” Lansbury Heritage Hotel’s general manager, Lucy Thapa said: “Our hotel offers an oasis of calm, created in a beautifully-restored historic Grade II listed building that combines modern style and luxury with distinguished grandeur. “We are thrilled to be commencing this partnership with PURE Spa & Beauty, which resulted from an exhaustive search of the UK to find a business with the right level of experience and expertise and a business model that would suit our hotel environment.” Bookings can be made at www.purespauk. com, the PURE Spa & Beauty app or by calling PURE directly on 0843 507 1888.

Wella Professional Smart Mirror Coty has unveiled the Wella Professional augmented reality (AR) enabled smart mirror, powered by the award-winning CareOS operating system. This revolutionary mirror enhances the hair colour experience, allowing the client to try on new colour. The full 360-degree video capture makes it possible to view your new hair from every conceivable angle.

Through sheer determination Mitch has since re-trained and pursued his dream of becoming a hairdresser. Thanks to a standup wheelchair he now works full-time as a stylist at James Christopher Hairdressing in Midsomer Norton. Akito ambassador Ben Brown has donated his original pair of Akito F-2 black 5” scissors—purchased in 2017, these scissors can be seen in Ben’s educational videos which have over 4,000,000 views. These famous scissors were auctioned off on social media this month raising £100. With the winner, Lea Shaw (@leashawhair) from Rural Fringe Hair Salon putting in the winning bid. Akito Scissors are planning more fundraising events this year and would welcome anyone looking to get involved to get in touch. Donate: gofundme.com/lets-get-mitchwalking-fiddy1

Co-created with Wella Professionals hair stylists and salon owners, based on research to identify the greatest opportunities to innovate the in-salon experience. The survey of nearly 1,700 stylists and clients revealed the desire for more personalised consultations and better connections outside the salon. This new technology is able to run on any connected device, making it flexible and able to be scaled to fit any salon size. Coty Professional Beauty chief marketing officer, Laura Simpson said: “We are incredibly excited about this breakthrough innovation, allowing hair professionals and change makers in beauty, to take their consultation with their clients to the next level. “The new Wella Professionals Smart Mirror, clients can have an even more customised session with their stylist, visualise their desired colour before application, as well as maintain the relationship and service after the salon visit.” Elodie Levy, senior director digital innovation at Coty, said: “Clients fear getting an unexpected colour result and the use of augmented reality for trying on hair colour shades in the salon is a game changer to address this challenge.”

Rick is a five-time finalist of the British Hairdressing Awards and has won countless other awards for his work. Recognised for his work with Afro hair, Rick has also created diverse collections showcasing his broad skill set, including barbering, colour, and hair up techniques. He credits his Jamaican grandfather with his interest in Afro hair and is proud to push himself in the industry—most notably with multiple wins at the Black Hair and Beauty Awards.

Rick Roberts Joins Schwarzkopf Professional Multi award-winning hairdresser and salon owner, Rick Roberts, has joined the Schwarzkopf Professional family. His Yorkshire salon will now stock and use the brand, with Rick also

Rick prides himself on being an all-round hairdresser, passionately believing in education and inspiring hairstylists throughout the UK and Ireland with every course he teaches. Schwarzkopf Professional is delighted to welcome Rick and his entire salon team to the family and look forward to seeing him showcase his creativity using the full suite of products.

The Hairdresser’s Charity bike ride raises £9,000 The recent The Hairdressers’ Charity bike ride has raised £9,000 towards helping hairdressers in need.

I N D U S T R Y NEWS

using Schwarzkopf Professional for his busy schedule of stage shows and photo shoots.

21 riders took part to help raise funds for the industry’s charity, organised for the second time by Victor Pajak from Headquarters, took place in Lugar do Montinho, Monchique in Portugal. The riders included teams from The Hairdressers’ Charity co-president Philip Sharp and charity supporters, Victor Pajak (Headquarters), Andrew and Julie Mercer (Goldwell), Brian Thomson (Leslie Hairdressing), Sarah Morrissey (Sarai Hair & Beauty), Russell Eaton (Russell Eaton Hair), Jon Chapman, Kate Preston and Libby Rock (Kate Preston Salons), Jo Martin, Neil Cornay (L’Oreal Professional), Bruno Giamattei (Marc Antoni Hair), Jeff Goodwin (Jeff Goodwin Hair), Toby Dicker (The Chapel), Alan Edwards (Alan Edwards Hair), Philip Norman, Adrian Dunham and Perry Payne (The Gallery Haircutters), Karine Jackson (Karine Jackson Hair & Beauty), and Andre Marsh (Scruffs Hairdressing). The Hairdressers’ Charity co-president, Philip Sharp said: “The charity bike ride is one of the best ways of supporting The Hairdressers’ Charity, whilst at the same time forming friendships with so many talented hairdressers in our industry. “When you sign up, you become part of a diverse community of like-minded people who are a joy to spent time with. I would recommend anyone thinking of taking part in this event in future years to sign up, once you do, you will be hooked and you will have the time of your life.”

Stylists in the running to win the Step Up & SHINE scholarship are announced

changing opportunity, so we’re looking for a passionate and enthusiastic stylist who will flourish from this invaluable mentoring. We wish all the finalists good luck and look forward to the next round of judging!”

permanent cream hair colour offering 100% grey coverage in rich shades featuring an intense shine.

The NHF/NBF and the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Step Up & SHINE competition received entries from stylists of all levels who wanted to be in with a chance of winning the year-long £2,500 bespoke education and mentoring programme.

Step Up & SHINE was launched in association with the NHF/NBF and the Fellowship, in honour of industry legend, Christofer Mann, to nurture passionate stylists from the UK who may not have access to quality training. Renowned industry expert, Debbie G will mentor the winner of this incredible scholarship to provide constant support and create a programme of courses designed to enhance the stylist’s career.

These versatile tones are ideal for salons and colour technicians looking to add a certain “je ne se quoi” to their colour portfolio from a trusted industry name.

The list of finalists selected by an expert panel have been announced: • Amanda Linehan, Hot Trend, Gillingham • Kim Nicole, The Salon Owen & Torr, Anglesey • Lewis Wilson, Wilson’s Hairdressing, Macclesfield

The new range features 100 easy-to-wear shades within 14 colour families, including ash, gold, pearl violet, mocha, and natural tones.

So, whether your clients are looking to warm up their 2019 looks with a vibrant red, or add depth with a deep mocha, these cream colours are sure to delight.

• Bethany Somerset, Material, Bath

Lômé Paris colour tubes retail at £6.76 (ex VAT), but for a limited time only to celebrate the launch, customers will receive a free 100ml developer with every cream hair colour purchased—both online and in-store.

• Evelina Janukenaite, Rory James Hair, Horsforth

So, take advantage of this great introductory offer while stocks last.

Entrants were required to complete an application form detailing their hairdressing background and ambitions and record a minutelong video on Instagram explaining why they would be the perfect person to win this once-ina-lifetime opportunity.

But that’s not all! In addition to the permanent hair colours, the Lômé Paris launch also features the following products in the range:

• Bianca Jones, Oracle Hairdressing, Chippenham

The next stage of the prestigious competition will see the successful finalists interviewed at their salon by a Step Up & SHINE representative. The final judging takes place in March with the winner of the scholarship announced in April 2019. NHF/NBF president, Agnes Leonard said: “Congratulations to all of our 2019 finalists! The Step Up & SHINE scholarship is a career-

Sally Salon Services launch new Lômé Paris colour range Sally Salon Services has kicked off 2019 with a bang with the exclusive launch of a new Lômé Paris cream hair colour collection—available to trade customers in stores across the UK and Ireland.

Oxycreams, 500ml and 1,000ml— Available in five strengths (5 Vol, 10 Vol, 20 Vol, 30 Vol and 40 Vol), the oxycreams help lock in moisture and shine and were specifically developed to ensure perfect colour results in combination with the Lômé Paris permanent hair colour creams and bleach powder.

A unique and lasting formula developed in Parisian laboratories, Lômé Paris is a

For more information visit salon-services. com

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Fellowship News

T he X Factor The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s 2019 Project X team learned essential presentation skills in their first session of the year. The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Project X team represents a key aspect of what turns hairdressers into industry icons—continuous education. Open to hairdressers of any age and level of experience— following basic training—Project X allows hairdressers to keep pushing, develop their skills, and enjoy unrivalled opportunities for exposure and growth. During their time with Project X, the team will undergo training in all aspects of hairdressing, stage work, media profiling, and will receive a shoot with a top photographer. This year’s team recently undertook their first session with team leader Kai Wan, as well as presentation expert Edward Hemmings. Following an overview of the exciting year ahead from Kai, the team spent the rest of the day perfecting their presentation skills—something which will pay dividends over the next year, as they present both in front of other Fellowship members and on stage at events across the country. Following Edward’s advice and guidance, the team were tasked with presenting to their peers an object which they had brought with them. Following feedback, they presented again at the end of the day with a new-found confidence and skill set. “It was pretty scary,” said team member Phillippa Lee from

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Yaxley Hair & Beauty. “But it was great to learn and gain points to improve on. By the end of the day, it was lovely to see that everyone had grown in confidence.” Dani Ball from Headquarters agrees, he said: “Presenting in front of people is never easy, no matter who you are—but if it was easy, we’d all just give up! I really feel much more confident after today.” “Everything this day involved—from stage skills to talking clearly—built my confidence. I walked away feeling confident, excited, and inspired by the rest of the team. I can’t wait for the rest of the year!”

Project X Team 2019 Charlotte Johnson, The Annexx

Harlee Gresty, Lewis Moore Salons

Clare Heatherill, The Chapel Dani Ball, Headquarters Emma Male, Em2 Janene Hawkins, Heavenly Hairstyling Krysia Eddery, Perfectly Posh Hair

Phillippa Lee, Yaxley Hair & Beauty Dan Law, Lara Johnson Lifestyle Rory Mason, Ashley Gamble Zara Clelland, Marc Antoni

Fellowship News

Jonathan Andrew Hosts Men’s Masterclass for ClubStar Art Team Men’s hair was the focus of the second session for the 2019 ClubStar Art Team. The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s youngest education program—the ClubStar Art Team—enjoyed a masterclass in men’s hairdressing from a true expert and awardwinning hairdresser, Jonathan Andrew. Jonathan, who has recently been announced as Fudge Professional’s newest global brand ambassador invited the team to Fudge HQ for a day of mentoring. With countless industry accolades in men’s hairdressing to his name, Jonathan was perfectly equipped to share some of his techniques and trend insights with the team. The session focused on styling men’s hair for shoots—a fitting session, as he will be art-directing a shoot for the team later on in their year. Working with four male models, Jonathan showed how to transform styles and transition between looks for a seamless shoot experience. Team member, Jemma Clemas said: “The best part of the day was Jonathan showing us how to style hair multiple times in a photo shoot without changing the cut. I learnt so much about the technicalities that come with doing a photo shoot and lots of great tips on how to get the best out of your model.” As well as seeing Jonathan’s models and hearing about his editorial experience, the team presented their own mood boards as they begin preparing for their upcoming shoot. “Jonathan broke down in great detail what makes the perfect collection,” says team member Stuart Kimber. “For me, the biggest realisation was that it’s not always the big budget shoots that make the most impact and win the awards. It’s the thought process behind the shoot and working with the right team that makes the best collection.” He added: “I also learnt to save the crazy work for being on stage. Stage work is in the here and now, but a good collection lasts a lifetime—so it’s important to make it classic and beautiful. “This has already been hands down the best experience of my hairdressing career. Working with our mentor Simon Tuckwell and the team has really opened my eyes to what this industry has to offer. I’ve become a much more confident stylist both inside the salon and out.”

ClubStar Art Team 2019 Jemma Clemas, Seckingtons Hair Salon Ciara Darcy, Bad Apple Hair Eloise Dudley, Toni&Guy Georgina Kemnitz-Pryor, Karoliina Saunders Hair Design Stuart Kimber, Spargo Hairdressing April Mash, Strangeways India Sparacia, Sculpture Salon Sophia Tsilidis, Headmasters Soho

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Schwarzkopf Professional’s 2018

YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM On Tuesday 29 January the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team made their way to Iris Studios in London to enjoy one last day working as a team together with awardwinning hairdressers Gary Hooker and Michael Young of Hooker & Young.

rom the moment they arrived, the Young Artistic Team were hands-on, bringing their looks to life with everyone eager to get stuck in—the atmosphere was abuzz for the whole day. With Gary at the helm mentoring and art-directing the team and Michael as the photographer, capturing the striking images for the upcoming collection— there was no end to the pair’s talents. The brief for the shoot was District 6. Michael said: “The vibe for this shoot is very eclectic and cool. Each model represents a girl from a different district; meaning they are all individual and had their own style. We shot the models both inside and outside to reflect the theme of the shoot.” The theme for the collection was decided in preparation for the shoot with Gary and Michael, where the team created mood boards of looks and styles

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they liked—giving them all a clear vision of how they wanted to style their models. The team were ecstatic to be working closely with Michael and Gary, Hannah McGrath from 77 The Hill said: “Gary and Michael are such lovely people, not only can you have a laugh with them, but they have an amazing eye and such great talent. “I learnt so much from them, particularly to enjoy everything you do, never stress, and to always believe in yourself. The best part of the shoot for me was being able to take the models out onto the real streets of London and shoot there, as well as in the studio.” Chloe Hunter from Daniel Granger Hairdressing added: “I loved working with Michael and Gary. They have a great sense of humour and I have taken away a lot of knowledge. They helped assist me on which products to use to get my desired look and gave key points

throughout the whole shoot. I really hope to get the opportunity to work with them again. “Thank you also to Schwarzkopf Professional for giving us this amazing opportunity and the chance to work with Gary and Michael. I can’t wait to use the techniques I have learnt throughout the year and put them into practice. It has been an incredible experience being part of the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team 2018.” It’s been a fantastic year for the 2018 Young Artistic Team, a team full of passion and enthusiasm, and with Hooker & Young on hand to help channel this creativity into a final shoot means some incredible looks were captured. Keep your eyes peeled for the new collection…

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SH A BA SH A BA Scottish Scottish Hair Hair & & Beauty Beauty Awards Awards Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BARBERNV S A L O N BARBERNV S A L O N BARBERNV S A L O N #S HABA18 #S HABA18 SO IT A BEGINS... #SH BA 18 IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Have you or your salon entered #SHABA19 yet? Registration is open now until the beginning of April. So you have plenty of time to prepare yourself for not only the biggest competition in the Scottish hair and beauty calendar, but also the biggest night. Last year over 100,000 votes were cast to decide the finalists for the eighth Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. This year, as we creep closer to a decade of SHABA; the premiere night in the Scottish hair and beauty calendar will be the biggest and best yet. Once again, the evening will be held at the glamourous Glasgow Hilton. Hundreds of salon owners, professionals, and tastemakers from all over the UK will be travelling to Glasgow to be a part of the glitz and glamour of the evening. Registration has officially opened up, so make sure to sign yourself up for a chance to be a part of SHABA history. The night will bring the industry’s brightest stars under one roof to celebrate the best of the best, mingle, and network. There will be a whole host of names, not just from the Scottish beauty sector, but professionals from across the UK. SHABA is a one-of-a-kind night that continues to flourish every year. SHABA’s team of expert judges will use all their experience at their disposal to make an informed call on the finalists. They’ll look at the quality and consistency of work and customer service skills, so just remember that reputations will not precede you and nothing will slip by the panel.

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SHABA19 |

The Judges

The Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards treats the task of judging each category with the highest importance. That’s why SHABA have called upon the very best in the industry to judge Scotland’s finest hair, beauty, and barber professionals. SalonNV are proud to announce some of the renowned experts who will be deciding the finalists ahead of September 8. PHIL JARMAN Our first barber judge brings with him a wealth of experience. Born in Port Glasgow, Phil has travelled the world with his scissors before settling down south where he owns Carlos & Co. in Cambridgeshire. Phil can spot a great haircut from a mile away so this year’s barbers will really need to be at the top of their game. Phil says he is in the 30th year of his apprenticeship and continues to learn every day—no one will better understand the pressures of being a modern barber.

SUZIE MCGILL & DYLAN BRITTAIN Both Suzie and Dylan are directors for Rainbow Room International, Scotland’s largest salon group. There’s not many names in the Scottish hair and beauty world that have as much industry clout as Suzie and Dylan.

ALAN BEAK SHABA receives entries from the very best barbers in Scotland, so it wouldn’t be doing them justice if they weren’t judged by the best. Alan Beak is the co-owner and co-founder of RUGER. barbers. British barbering has few names as recognisable as Alan. The barber behind more than one BarberNV cover, Alan’s meteoric rise in barbering has seen him mass over 130k Instagram followers. The barbering categories couldn’t hope for a better judge of skill.

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SHABA winners donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just win a beautiful plaque to display in their workplaceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;they will also be featured in both SalonNV and BarberNV magazines!

SHABA TIMELINE

February 11: Registration opened for SHABA 2019.

April 1: Registration for SHABA 2019 closes.

April 15: Voting opens. All winners appear in the following magazine issues, pictured onstage receiving their award.

June 10: The judges will have made their final decisions and you will know if you have made it into the finals.

August 5: Deadline for all required finalists to submit their evidence/portfolios.

All winners then have the chance to have their own double-page editorial feature in either SalonNV or BarberNV.

September 8: SHABA 2019 takes place at the Hilton Hotel, Glasgow.

Visit the SHABA website now to enter before April 1.

You could even appear on the cover, like Colin McAndrew (Best Male Stylist, 2018) and Kyle Ross (Best Barber, 2018).

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MUSE 2

Angelo Seminara Hair: Angelo Seminara Photographer: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Makeup: Laura Dominique Stylist: Lotta Aspenberg

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JONATHAN ANDREW

Fudge Professional global brand ambassador Jonathan Andrew is a British hairdresser who not only exemplifies but embodies the future of the industry—not just because of his collections, some of which have graced our pages and even covers or stage work but because of his desire to raise the profile of hairdressing. Recently he has become the latest global brand ambassador for Fudge Professional, and as he was soon to tell us, has some very exciting plans in the works for the coming year.

Jonathan Andrew With a growing reputation that precedes him, it’s only natural Jonathan would align himself with global heavy-hitters, Fudge. “They [Fudge Professional] wanted someone who has their finger on the pulse, has a youthful spirit and is aspirational to a younger generation of hairdressers. “We had a few discussions about what they wanted to do and some of the projects I was keen to work on. They’ve got some really exciting things happening with the products. This level of support and involvement is something I couldn’t pass up—it was an easy choice for me.” Becoming a brand ambassador is a great career achievement and is a status many hair professionals aspire to. When you think of being an ambassador for a brand, the responsibilities of the position aren’t always clear from the title. But you have a responsibility not only to the brand you represent but your online following—an idea Jonathan is very familiar with. “I’m more involved in what actually happens, a lot of the responsibilities fall inside being at the brand’s planning and creative meetings, which means

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I’ll be able to put across my ideas and concepts. “I’m helping to develop their education and we’re working alongside product launches and other projects this year. I’m a lot more involved with the brand and the team, as opposed to just being called upon.” Education and raising the profile of hairdressing among young people is a passion at the core of all of Jonathan’s decisions. During the course of the interview, he revealed, exclusively to SalonNV that he would be soft-launching his own education courses in February and March of this year. Having experienced every facet the industry has to offer, Jonathan can give students an invaluable perspective on the worlds of session, photo shoots, and shows. “I can tap into every facet of the industry because I’ve tried it all. It’s quite nice having that unique perspective and being able to offer advice. I’ve got my first few courses booked and I’m very excited to be starting Jonathan Andrew Education. “I’ll be doing some bespoke in-salon stuff, one on one and I’m leading off with a course focused on photo shoots and photography. What a lot of people don’t understand is that photos are what you see and you can only see what’s in the picture, but at a

show, you see the whole look. I think people get caught up trying to do too much and in the big images that really stand out—there’s usually a trick to it and I try to give an insight into not only taking better pictures but to use social media better and give it a bit more of a professional feel.” This passion for education is entwined with Fudge Professional. “In Fudge at the moment we’re really focused on pushing a focus on the industry and hairdressers. Their main thing is they’re really passionate about young hairdressers, the next generation. “I feel education from a brand perspective is really important because it gets people to connect a lot easier with the brand, but also builds on the

cohesiveness of the two, so people understand the products a lot more. Which translates into the salon, retail, and being able to give better advice.” Jonathan looks to change the current, falling enthusiasm for the industry among young people. Considering himself very fortunate in his career to have been afforded the opportunity to travel and learn; Jonathan looks to use his industry experience to benefit young hairdressers. “I want to show off different work and different ways of working because sometimes it can seem quite scary when they have to think about how things are going to look and what people will think. “People are very conscious of what other people think and it will essentially help people break down those barriers and get people to believe more in what they’re doing. I firmly believe the information is out there, you just need to be passionate enough to find it and it’s pointless if you don’t share it. “I’m such a geek when it comes to learning. I read constantly about all different things and the interesting thing I’ve found is that everything is relatable. I think that’s why it’s important to offer the most genuine version of yourself and

showcase what is out there, so people know what is achievable.” Jonathan describes his partnership with Fudge Professional as a big step. He also told SalonNV that these opportunities are no longer available only to a select few, but thanks to the advent of social media, anyone is capable of reaching those same heights. “Fudge is really keen on a lot of cool and innovative things that sits really well with me. I want to be able to push these quirks and changes and do something a little bit different. I’m excited about being involved at the beginning of something and see where it goes. You’ll be able to find Jonathan with Fudge Professional at trade shows and events across the year, with exciting and secretive collaborations planned, you’ll not want to miss a beat. Increasing his presence on social media

Jonathan will also host a chat show style program on YouTube—he’d even planned on getting a TV show made, though he admits this is a lot harder than he thought. “This year I’m really focused on promoting hairdressing and helping hairdressers get more appreciation for what is involved and available in our industry. I want people to see it on a wider scale and for people to see it as a valid career choice than doing anything else.” Remembering in school his experience with people questioning his choice to learn hairdressing as a trade, Jonathan sees his role as showing the potential next generations the variety in career and the fulfilling career they can achieve through hairdressing—a goal Jonathan and Fudge Professional both hope to achieve.

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VA L E N T I N E ’ S L O O K AT # BL OW S H AW L AN D S

In Glasgow’s Shawlands area, SalonNV went to visit the collaborative shoot between our columnist and expert stylist Fallon Carberry and makeup artist, Sam Hendry. makeup there is a specific eye-shape we usually aim to work with if we are going for a certain look. SNV: Why do you think it’s important for hairdressers and MUAs to do photo shoots? FC: To showcase their work, keep up with the ever-changing trends and to keep your audience engaged with fresh material. SH: Doing a photo shoot can be amazing for building your portfolio and can lead to published work. This is so beneficial for the careers of both MUAs and hairdressers.

The downstairs room in #BLOW is perfectly set up for hair and fashion shoots. When we arrived, Sam was in the midst of applying makeup and Fallon told us about the concept for the shoot— Valentine’s glam. The hair, formed into a stunning blonde bow, with Sam creating heart-shaped, glowing false freckles— tying the entire look together. SNV: How did you come up with the concept for the hair and makeup for the shoot? FC: The main concept of the shoot was for it to be fun, flirty, and girly— everything that Valentine’s Day and Blow represents! SNV: How was the collaboration process? Can you tell us about your working relationship? FC: For me, I’ve admired Sam’s work from afar for a while now, but this was our first chance to collaborate and share our ideas and visions. I love people that inspire me and Sam certainly does that! It was great to work with someone who shares my work ethic and the vision I had for this shoot. SNV: How important to your vision is the

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backdrop for the shoot? FC: The backdrop had to be soft and feminine, but the main idea was to let the hair and makeup take centre stage. That’s what we’re about after all! SNV: How important is the fashion? FC: In this case, fashion was not important for us. It was specifically paired back and understated to compliment the vision we wanted to come through in the hair and makeup looks. SNV: What are your top three tips on taking a good photo to showcase on social media? FC: Firstly, you need good lighting. Secondly, make sure the hair is nice and polished—no flyaway hairs. Thirdly, don’t be afraid to use a filter to brighten, shadow, or add contrast—anything that will add to the overall effect you’re looking to achieve. My favourite app right now is This Visco Camera for a vintage feel and Afterlight for brightening up your image. SH: Totally agree, good lighting is key. I would say the camera is so important, as you want to capture the true quality of your work. The perfect model—for

SNV: How important is collaboration in the hair and beauty industry? FC: It’s good to hook up with other artists who can keep you informed of the current styles in their industry and vice versa. Equally, being present on multiple social media platforms is key to the success of any and all businesses these days. SH: Yes, it really brings the full look together. They can complement each other for the best look for a shot. Without one another the look has a tendency to seem incomplete. SNV: What advice would you give to young hairdressers and MUAs looking to start doing these types of photo shoots? FC: Approach people who you admire and ask to shadow their shoots. Don’t be afraid to speak up and add helpful ideas if you have them. In my experience, good hairdressers and MUAs welcome the ideas of new creative artists—I certainly do. SH: Come prepared! Have exactly what you need with your full kit. Be clean, sanitary, and organised. Stay professional and work as a team—know the brief. SNV: Who are your idols and inspirations in and outside of the industry? FC: Jen Aitken and Chris Appleton, they’re ahead of the styling game and do all the IT girls. It’s a goal of mine to be at

the top of my game, like them. SH: My idols in makeup—I have so many—too many to name. A few top favourites are Jeffree Star, Pat McGrath, and Paige Louise (Plouise Academy). SNV: What products have you used for the shoot? FC: I love TIGI’s new range, Copyright, which is exclusive to salons only, and it’s unbelievable! SH: @plouise_makeup_academy red base (hearts), @crownbrushuk brushes and colour temptation palette, @stilacosmetics liquid lipstick Beso, @primalash_lashes vain lash, MAC Studio Fix Fluid, and Topshop Highlighter Mother of Pearl. SNV: What are your hero products? FC: My hero product is TIGI Copyright Volume Spray—Go Big or Go Home! SH: Highlighter always! Good quality, fluffy lashes, and nude lipstick.

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MICRO FRINGE

The hot trend for SS19 Hair is the accessory you never take off, and the fringe is the all-important frame for your face. There’s a fringe to suit every face shape, and the micro fringe is set to emerge as the all-important style for SS19.

Sharon Malcolm Micro fringes have been seen on celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Rita Ora, and Emma Watson. Now the style has filtered onto the high street with clients asking for the addition in salons up and down the country. The style has been floating around pop culture for decades. Worn by some of the coolest women both on and off screen— sported by No Doubt, frontwoman Gwen Stefani in the 90s alongside bright bubble-gum colours. Sharon Malcolm, owner of Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing Salon in Newtownards, Northern Ireland, believes micro fringes are the perfect style for those who are open-minded and like something a little bit different, a bit edgy—but want to remain beautiful. “Micro fringes are choppy and textured but beautifully undone. They may be unstructured but still have a touch of luxury. A micro fringe is a great way to make a statement and has to be worn with plenty of confidence.” Here’s Sharon’s tips for wearing a micro fringe this season: 1. A micro fringe is the perfect accessory for those who want to be on trend this season. Best suited to an oval face and best avoided for round faces—opt for a softer texture for this face shape. 2. If you don’t want commitment; chop into an extension and clip it in. A contrast

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in colour further adds to the interest— think 90s Gwen Stefani. 3. Offering free fringe trims to your clients is a great way to encourage them to visit the salon more regularly. 4. For longer lengths, marry the micro fringe with soft mermaid waves and a matte finish.

5. A styling powder will add texture to the micro fringe, while a slick of oil will keep it under control. Website: sharonmalcolm.co.uk Instagram: @chachachasharon @sharonmalcolmhairdressing

Winning Collection | British Hairdressing Awards 2018

Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician of the Year SalonNV Magazine | 25

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Hair: Robert Eaton (Russell Eaton Salons) Photography: Richard Miles Makeup: Lucy Flower Styling: Clare Frith

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LONDON FASHION WEEK

PREEN

ghd Preen’s AW19 collection was eclectic, vibrant, and full of life; a simultaneous celebration of colour, pattern, and fabric that perfectly conveyed the array of cultural influences that inspired them. Preen’s inspiration for the collection began with an interest in the history of dance within the British Isles and the way that dance is able to unite communities. This took them on a journey of nostalgia, calling up memories of music and nights spent in the Hacienda nightclub, which served as the creative catalyst for the collection. As an ode to the British Isles, the collection included traditional Welsh and Irish woven textiles, tartans, and tapestry jacquards as statement fabrics. Florals are given a modern makeover with glitter prints and pleating. Earth tones ran through the entire collection, harking back to the roots of the garment. The hair looks crafted by ghd fashion week ambassador, Eugene Souleiman were a perfect translation of these themes, using texture, movement, and raw, natural beauty to convey the love

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of historical British dance that inspired Preen. Textural bobs and ponytails were made even chicer through wispy pin curls at the temples and nape of the neck—the effect of which were feminine, artfully nuanced, and perfectly imperfect. These looks were curated to represent the strength and refinement of the Preen woman; a woman who, in Eugene’s own words, is “beautiful, sophisticated and tough” all at the same time. KEY TECHNIQUES For the ponytails, Eugene generously spritzed Wella Professionals EIMI Root Shoot to lift the hair at the roots and prepare the hair for styling with the ghd curve classic curl tong. Hair was then brushed back roughly, to encourage volume and movement at the hairline. Next, Eugene added texture into the front sections, using the ghd curve classic curl tong—ensuring each section was the same width as the curler. Curling from the root with the ends left out of the tongs slightly to loosen the curls along the lengths. Eugene said: “The whole point is to be relaxed when styling. It feels like you’re not doing a lot when you curl the hair, but when you pull all the hair back, you’ll be surprised at how strong the look is.” No brush or comb was used to form the

ponytail. Instead, the hair was scrapped back roughly with the fingers, creating a messy medley of texture. Wella Professionals EIMI Dry Me was then sprayed to loosen up the roots and dry out any oils, before hair was secured in a ponytail just above the nape of the neck, to give an elegant feel and ensure that baby hair on the nape was visible. The look was finished with pin curls that sit at the temples and nape of the neck. These were the definitive detail that joins the ponytail and bob styles together and giving what Eugene called an “artful nuance” to otherwise minimal looks. A very small tendril of hair was twisted around a hairpin and secured with Wella Professionals EIMI Dynamic Fix, before being unravelled and fixed in place with a ghd air hairdryer and diffuser. Each look was constructed by Eugene with “movement and an organic feel” in mind, making each an artful balance of natural, polished beauty, and refined catwalk perfect. “The key is to be as easy as you can with them. If you overwork the style, it will look overworked and even tortured. This is a look that is minimal but special, with subtle nuances and softness. The hair should feel touchable—it is not stuck in place just for look’s sake... and though it feels contained, there is so much life to it.”

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MALENE ODDENSHEDE BACH

Electric London Stefan Bertin for Electric London styled the rich, autumnal landscape inspired looks for Malene Oddenshede Bach’s AW19 collection. He described the hair inspiration saying: “The collection emulated nature with textured floral berries. The hair complimented the collection with an Elfin feel and a nod to nature with its whimsical, soft, fluffy, natural style.” Here’s how Stefan achieved the look:

STEP 1

To prep, use Electric P*-4 Preparation Spray directly on the hair and work the product into the hair from roots to ends.

STEP 2

After drying the hair smooth, wide sections were taken and wrapped around a large barrel tong to create soft, smooth waves. Sections were set with a spritz of Electric ºC7 e. Spray to gently hold the wave.

STEP 3

Once cooled and set, pump a small amount of the new Electric ºC-1 Rose Serum into your hands and rake through mid-toends to separate out the waves.

STEP 4

To achieve the soft fluffy finish, take a small finger amount of Electric ºC-4 Shaping Paste, rub the product through your hands and using fingertips only on the roots to create a soft volume textured effect.

STEP 5

To finish, spritz Electric ºC7 e. Spray liberally throughout the hair to hold the style with a dry, gentle finish.

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VIN + OMI

My. Haircare The VIN + OMI show began London Fashion Week and was held at the Andaz London on Liverpool Street. Pioneering world leaders in eco fashion VIN + OMI chose My. Haircare to collaborate with backstage at their London Fashion Week show. The show featured VIN + OMI’s AW19 collection. The collection showcased clothing mainly made from recycled plastic from UK river and ocean clean up schemes. It will also feature organic plant-based fabrics grown in the UK. A VIN + OMI spokesperson said: “We are very selective when it comes to collaboration with our backstage beauty brands. We chose My. Haircare because of their eco-friendly approach to their great product and their young creative brand profile.” Some of the model’s hair for the show was coloured using the Made For Me colour system by My. Haircare. A selection of pastels was chosen and used for the fashion show, from pure coral to sky blue and soft lilac. The collection of colour choices were designed to highlight natural pure tones, found in everyday life, bringing shades of natural to promote individuality found in the My. Haircare Made For Me Service & System. The Made For Me system is customisable in that it exclusively blends to the individual’s tone or existing hair colour for the desired result. Each bottle is mixed by a hair care professional—based on the customised hair colouring already in your hair—and helps you to create and maintain tone, warmth, or the cooldown your hair needs until your next visit to the salon.

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Matty Bovan

BaByliss PRO Matty Bovan’s AW19 collection In Uncertain Times, This is a Sure Thing! saw 19 models with almost identical, glossy reverse bobs, grace the runway—created by Syd Hayes and his team. Syd and his team spent over eight hours cutting wigs with the new BaByliss PRO Super Motor Clipper, to create the striking style. On his look, Syd said: “A regular shape bob always goes from the nape of the neck and is very classic and straight. We took it the other way. We cut off the corner from the front and worked it back, and then created an undercut, leaving the top long which gave a cool wedge-like feel. “We cut the fringes with the clippers to create a strong line which we then changed the shape of by blow-drying in highshine spray and product, giving off a chunky feel.” The BaByliss PRO Super Motor Trimmer was then used to finish and tidy the fringe and edges. Syd wrapped up saying: “Shine is key. We used hair oil gloss to make the haircut shine and powerful against the red lip which really made the overall beauty look POP!” The hair perfectly complemented Matty’s collection, inspired by a letter to his deceased grandma, as well as taking reference from the Pendle Witch Trials of 1612 to showcase a dark, strange, and tempestuously beautiful collection of rich fabrics and textures all finely tailored. 32 | SalonNV Magazine

Gianluca Caruso TONI&GUY

Hair: Gianluca Caruso, 2018 Newcomer of the Year, TONI&GUY North Audley Street, London Makeup: Eoin Whelan Styling: Aleksandra Malewicz Photographs: Pedro Antunes

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Hair: Gianluca Caruso, 2018 Newcomer of the Year, TONI&GUY North Audley Street, London Makeup: Eoin Whelan Styling: Aleksandra Malewicz Photographs: Pedro Antunes

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MY. HAIRCARE Off the back of their VIN + OMI show at London Fashion Week, SalonNV caught up with My. Haircare’s creative duo of Rob Forgione and Denis Kovalyov who have 35 years combined experience as hairdressers, educators, and global platform artists. Travelling the world launching hair care brands in 12 countries, their combined experience and passion for hair has led them to the creation of My. Haircare. Their formulations are premium in their category while being “free from” and 100% Vegan, Peta Certified with NO Sulfates-Parabens-Silicones. With strategic market research in consumer and professional salon division they “bridge the gap” between effective colour depositing shampoos and conditioners. a bespoke version of Infuse My. Colour Shampoo made by professionals in a professional environment for the consumer. The MADE FOR ME system is customisable in that it exclusively blends to the exact tone of each individual’s tone or existing hair colour for the desired result. Each bottle is mixed by a hair care professional—based on the customised hair colouring already in your hair—and helps you to create and maintain, tone, warmth, or the cooldown your hair needs until your next visit to the salon.

Rob Forgione and Denis Kovalyov

SNV: How did the concept for My. Haircare come about and what has changed for you since the first product launch? RF: The concept of My. Haircare or Infuse My. Colour Shampoo and The bespoke MADE FOR ME professional system came about as myself and Denis Kovalyov wanted to create a shampoo which would colour hair instantly and make it feel incredible. At the same time, we wanted to communicate a message that you can have a luminous hair colour all the time and not just after a salon visit. We know that customers want to be different without committing to a chemical service. We were inspired by friends and customers, as we always, as professional stylists, encourage them to play with colour in their hair, and style it to reflect how they feel—to make them happier and more confident. We both feel that this is the only way that people can be comfortable with themselves—by working on their looks and seeing how their entire lives can be improved with just a simple change of their hair colour. From our first product launch to now, we have improved on the packaging. Labels are now silk screen printed instead of paper labels and we are focusing on being a true wellness brand. By wellness, we mean that down from the product itself, to its packaging we care for the earth. We are proud to be innovators in the hair care business and plan to offer 100% post-consumer recycled plastic packaging by 2020 and also be 100% biodegradable too. Further to that, we have created

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SNV: What does My. Haircare have to offer the hair, beauty, and fashion industry? And how would you describe your brand profile? RF: My. Haircare offers to the hair and beauty industry a sustainable product that does what it says on the bottle without costing the earth. To the fashion world, we offer a host of possibilities no matter the style of the fashion designer. The possibilities really are endless. Our product can reflect many fabric colours and textures. For example with the VIN + OMI show for London Fashion Week we created colours like pure coral to sky blue and soft lilac to reflect VIN + OMI’s colour choices—which were designed to highlight natural pure tones found in everyday life. Our brand profiling is rather simple. “We are a brand that delivers exceptional performance, quality ingredients, and endless creativity for the ultimate guest or at home experience and integrity of the hair. We are young and creative!” SNV: How was the MADE FOR ME SYSTEM developed and when did you see that gap in the product market?

RF: The gap in the market for a coloured hair shampoo that maintains the exact colour has always existed. Of course, there are lots of brands that can maintain brassy blondes etc. but then they may not be as sustainable in their ingredients. We are innovators that follow what the market demands and follow niche lifestyles and popular ideals. One of the main ideas is “our dying planet”. So when we created the brand and products it was paramount for us to formulate something that met mainstream demands but bridge the gaps in the hair care market. SNV: How did the partnership with VIN + OMI come about? RF: We love the themes and share the philosophies of sustainability with VIN + OMI. It is important to us, at My. Haircare that we collaborate with the right partners who share our passion for being vegan and sustainable. Therefore our collaboration with VIN + OMI is our love for what we do while being earth conscious. Likewise, they chose to work with us because of our eco-friendly approach to Infuse My. Colour Shampoo and the bespoke MADE FOR ME professional system and our young creative brand profiling. SNV: How important was it marrying the eco-friendly approach VIN + OMI have taken to your own brand values? RF: The eco-friendly approach has always existed in our branding. We have always been 100% vegan, sulphate, silicone, and paraben free. So, it is not so much marrying the eco-friendly approach for us with VIN + OMI, but that we

share the same brand values from the beginning. SNV: What was the brief you were given for the show and how were the pastel colours chosen? DK: Again, when we were shown the brief, we focussed on the colours and textures that VIN + OMI used for the show. Some of the models’ hair for the show was coloured using the My. Haircare MADE FOR ME colour system. A selection of pastels were chosen and used for the fashion show. From pure coral to sky blue and soft lilac. The collection of colour choices were designed to highlight natural pure tones, found in everyday life. SNV: Will you continue working with young designers who look to push sustainability in fashion and beauty? DK: Most definitely! We love to work with other young creatives out there who share our values for sustainable fashion and beauty. For us, fashion week is for the leaders in fashion and beauty to get the opportunity to showcase their innovations and we love complementing our fashion counterparts. SNV: We’re moving closer to a new decade, how will My. Haircare push their brand values forward? RF: We’ve got some new product development and innovations that are coming up that will really rock the world of those who share our sustainability values. All we can say for now is that they’ll really be up their street, so you’ll have to stay tuned to see the next instalment of My. Haircare!

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PADDY McDOUGALL

R AI N B OW R O OM I N T E R NAT IONAL

ainbow Room International’s George Square salon is housed inside the Merchants House of Glasgow, one of the oldest buildings in the city, built around 1600. As soon as I walked in, I was instantly met with smiles and exceptionally warm service. My coat was taken, I was brought a coffee, and then I waited on Paddy McDougall, Indola’s latest global ambassador. A former Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team member, Paddy has since established himself as one of the country’s most promising young names with a place on the prestigious Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s F.A.M.E. Team. As part of the 2018 team, Paddy enjoyed mentoring from a host of industry icons and shot a collection with legendary fashion photographer, Rankin. Paddy has also gained extensive experience in the session world, a member of the core team for Duffy and worked on shows including Rick Owens, Y3, and Saint Laurent across London, Paris, and Milan. After a fresh trim, I sat down with Paddy to talk about his appointment as an Indola brand ambassador and why he’s so excited about his future with the brand. Most recently, as part of the talented

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team that worked on Barcelona Street Style Collection—due for release this year—Paddy described the shoot as street focused, unfussy with a wearable edge. The idea of wearable hair is critical for Paddy, as it gives hairdressers the tools to increase their revenue and learn to style more accessible emerging trends— an ideal that aligns perfectly with digital-first brand Indola— as well as working with Indola creative director, Simon Ellis. “It’s about giving the Indola community the tools to create better representations of the work they’re doing and to create strong hair that will lead them to gain more clients and increase their revenue. We want to give people a tool that allows hairdressers to be more creative, but also something that ultimately enhances their business. “I really wouldn’t have been keen to partner with a brand unless I felt like they had the same values as me and with Indola I’ve found that. Together we want to create something that’s fashionfocused and has an edge of realness. Which is always something I try to get across in my work.”

Not content with simply creating a hair image, Paddy sought to build a far greater concept for his debut Indola shoot. “I think what’s nice is we’re building characters rather than creating trends, and we’re always trying to keep an element of ready to wear. I think it’s really cool for our audience and for our community because the whole street style concept is central to the brand, all the education we do is based around the collection.” As important as hair may be, Paddy recognises these types of shoots need to showcase a more complete package. The Street Style Collection, as he described, melds fashion and hair in a way like few brands truly achieve. It’s typical for collections to focus solely on hair with fashion and makeup becoming a secondary element. However, this isn’t the case with Paddy’s work on the spring/summer collection, which features a much more cohesive relationship between hair and clothing. He told SalonNV the looks were designed to match with the individualism so prevalent throughout fashion. “If you look at what’s happening in fashion right now, individualism is the biggest thing. Lots of the shows I work on are becoming more and more about individual looks and it’s important to reflect that on what we’re creating.

“Even in terms of clothing within fashion, it’s not one size fits all. Lots of brands are pushing limited edition drops with their collections and we’re trying to do that with hair as well. “At the end of the day it’s not just about creating really cool pictures, hopefully, we do that too, but it’s about creating tools for people in the Indola community to use and attract new people to what we’re doing. “Sometimes we can almost complicated things because we think that makes them more appealing. But it’s about covering the fundamentals because everything we do should be about the fundamentals done well.” But how do these fundamentals translate into increasing a salon’s

revenue? “Our slogan is “simply smarter”, which is about making things easier to use. This is reflected by one of the biggest innovations I’ve seen since joining Indola with a product called Colour Transformer. This product gets added to any colour in the range and you can create a quasi-permanent rather than having two separate ranges.” With a clear axiom and identity, I asked Paddy how and most crucially why he would recommend Indola to other hair professionals. “For me, Indola is actually “simply smarter”, with a smaller range you can accomplish more and cater to every single client’s needs. People are looking for a more tailored solution for hair—the Indola range offers this. “Most of all, what’s exciting about

Indola is the direction we’re going to take education in. That’s why I’ve done so many different things within hairdressing, I think it’s important to always improve your skillset and learn. “With Indola and what we’ve done and what I know we’ve got planned, people are going to come to Indola and start using the products because we can really help them.” Finally, Paddy told us why he is so keen to get to work and help Indola push their education menu. “One of the most satisfying things you can do is share. I’ve learned so much from other people like Duffy for instance, so I think it’s always cool to give back and you can learn from them because they might interpret what you’re doing slightly differently.”

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Katie Hellier

MAKEUP ARTIST Katie Hellier is a Glasgow-based MUA, who in just five years can boast a whole host of industry achievements. An award winner, Katie won Best Makeup Artist at the 2016 Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, and last year she was a runner up in the Confetti Wedding Awards for Makeup Artist of the Year.

traight from school, Katie began a three-year HND course in makeup, studying daily, bridal, and special effects makeup. Graduating college with top marks Katie took a full-time position with Lancome at House of Fraser. “I did love it. It was a great experience starting off, but it was more sales which I didn’t enjoy. I wouldn’t be where I am today without that experience—I left in 2014 and went out on my own. “It’s now been five years on my own, but when I started makeup wasn’t so big, if I hadn’t been so patient, I would have given up in the first six months. I was really determined, I had already given up a job so it was a big risk as it was. With anything I want in life I just focus on it and keep going. “It’s funny, when I started it was with an ad on Gumtree-that’s how old it was.” If you want to see for yourself how good Katie is, you’ll have to book far in advance. Weddings have been booked up two years in advance and even makeup sessions for nights out fill up quickly—with some already asking about her availability for Christmas. “People used to book as they went, but now they ask “are you taking bookings for

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Christmas yet?” It does fill up quickly, that service is so popular.” Kate describes her style as being 50/50 brides and going out makeup—liking to keep variety in her work. “Bridal used to be natural and this and that. I always say “why change your look for one day?” You want to be a better version of yourself, if you go for a smokey eye and a red lip, why change yourself for the wedding day? It’s a bit more glam, but I do like doing makeup for the nights out. “Just now I would say I like to do a mix of styles. Some people stick to one look and that’s it, but someone might say to me “I want this,” and it might not suit them, so I’ll recommend something else. But at the end of the day, they’re paying for it.” Katie’s constant drive to learn and improve her skill set has seen her attend makeup courses across the UK from influential professionals like Kate Haze and Carla Powell. But, in 2017 Katie flew to New York for a masterclass from Mario

Dedivanovic, Kim Kardashian West’s makeup artist. “I was on cloud nine. It was such a buzz. The session with Mario was a full-day event, complete with a lunch break. Kim’s skin was flawless and Mario said he can take up to three hours to do her makeup. Skincare is so important! “Mario is so humble and down to earth, he just wants to share his knowledge. Kim was really down to earth as well. You’d expect her to be reserved, but she’s funny and chatted her way throughout it. “It’s the look that’s in right now—the no makeup, makeup look—but it’s actually quite a lot of makeup. So, I was intrigued to see what was used and how it was done. I always like to keep learning. “The example took around five hours as Mario explained and people asked questions about the process—the theatre was full of people from all over the world.” This experience gave Katie further inspiration to share in her one on one and group masterclass sessions. “I came back and everyone was already desperate to know how to do it. I had already started doing a couple of wee masterclasses. “I’ve done a few masterclasses on what I had learned; I did one in the Corinthian and one in the Hair Boutique. I haven’t done one in about a year though. People always ask when I’m going to bring them back.” At her one to one sessions Katie always showcases her technique in a half and half method. Demonstrating the look on half of the models’ face, encouraging the participant to use what they’ve learned to finish the look. “Some people aren’t as comfortable, they just want to sit and watch. Which is the point where I thought about classes and teaching groups of people. People love picking up any information even products, people love to still do their own makeup too and picking up some new products for everyday use.” “Educating others is very rewarding. People think you lose business that way but you don’t. With my one

to one sessions, people worry half their face will look totally different from the other, but it’s just breaking it down in steps.” Later this year—more information coming soon—SalonNV will be launching our official channel with original hair, beauty, and barbering content. Here, you’ll be able to see Katie’s talent first-hand as she’ll be doing makeup showcases and tutorials for all to see. Keep your eyes peeled for more announcements.

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L I V E T R U E L ON D ON

o matter who we are we all strive to be our most authentic selves, but sometimes how we want to express ourselves doesn’t align with ourselves. Easy-going and care-free hair salon, Live True London have banned judgement and all forms of prejudice from their premises. No matter the hairstyle or colour you’re yearning for, the team are dedicated to delivering you to your most authentic self. As their name implies, their headline offer is encouraging you and helping you to live true—one haircut at a time. Comfort is key to their salons, working on a collaborative approach of stylist and client. As much as all the team are professionally trained and experienced, they know that ultimately, the client is the expert of their own hair. Whether it’s swinging the salon doors open for a quick trim or a dial-up with a whole new colour transformation, the open dialogue between client and stylist ensures all outcomes are desired. In their Vauxhall branch, the salon additionally offers an in-house beauty salon with a range of professional treatments and bespoke services executed by top beauty therapists. Clients popping by this branch will come out feeling revitalised in hair, face, body, and nails. After-care advice is also provided so Live True London’s services don’t end once you have left the salon floor. Live True London directors, Valerie and Kirsten Maine said: “When it came to developing the ethos of the salons, Kirsten and I took a lot of time to think about what sort of culture we wanted— both in terms of the working environment and the customer-facing business. We wanted to develop a business that delivered a high-quality service but that also did not take itself too seriously and had a friendly vibe. Live True was developed around the concept of authenticity—doing whatever makes you feel more “you”.”

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SH A BA Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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8TH SEPTEMBER 2019 | HILTON GRAND BALLROOM, GLASGOW

scottishhairandbeautyawards.com SalonNV Magazine | 45

Marc Antoni Art director: Bruno Marc Hair: Marc Antoni Artistic Team Photographer: Richard Miles Photography MUA: Katie Moore Clothes stylist: Ellen Spiller

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Art director: Bruno Marc Hair: Marc Antoni Artistic Team Photographer: Richard Miles Photography MUA: Katie Moore Clothes stylist: Ellen Spiller

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John Rawson HAIR PHOTOGRAPHER John Rawson is a photographer with over two decades of experience in the hair and beauty industry, and his portfolio contains images from some of the biggest names in the industry. John began his professional life as a hairdresser with Alan International at the age of 19; spending 16 years as the artistic director for the company, before leaving to pursue his now international renown in photography.

John Rawson “I’ve always had an interest in photography from when I was a kid and I always saw things very visually. And the further down the road I went with hairdressing the more it became apparent that I wanted to create images full time.” At the time, Alan International was going in a direction where John didn’t see himself and when the opportunity came up to assist a friend on a shoot, John made artistic the leap. “I gave up on a good career to essentially become a junior again—everyone apart from my wife thought I was mad. “When we did the first shoot I immediately got on the train and went to see the then editor of HJ, which was a massive opportunity. A year and a half later I was doing this full time. “The first few shoots we got a lot of press, so straight away we were very lucky. Some people find that aspect— placing the material—very difficult, but I was very lucky.” A full-time photographer since 1994, whether editorial or avant-garde John’s images have developed an indelible signature. Across his portfolio, John has captured images portraying strength in femininity. “I think it’s probably the generation I’m from. I was brought up in the 70s and 80s and that was very much the vision at the time. I have a

great passion for Yoji Yamamoto and the whole Japanese aesthetic and photographically I lean towards Peter Lindbergh, so I like a lot of black and white photography.” More so than strength in femininity, John portrays strong characters through his work—marrying well with many of the influential figures he works with. “We do a lot of work with Hob and people like that who are very graphic and have a strong aesthetic, so those things work well together.” As Alan International’s art director, John already spent much of his time in the studio working on video and photographic content. And as he described “It came to a point where it became more and more interesting doing that,” spurring John to spend more time creating an image. “The two things influenced each other

and have been hugely beneficial to me. To be a good hairdresser you have to have good technique, but you also have to see things in a way that’s fashionable and current. I was always very lucky to have that and it’s the same for photography. “They’re both crafts, they aren’t artforms. A lot of people think hairdressing and photography is an art form, but I don’t. I think it’s a craft where you learn and do something with your hands.” Though John admitted he isn’t hugely turned on by the technical aspects of photography—having an incredible assistant who deals with that side of things—and he doesn’t have a camera strap surgically attached to him. Instead, much like an artist—though he wouldn’t describe himself this way—he enjoys sculpting an image from a studio’s blank

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space. “When we first have a discussion with a client it’s a discussion between two creatives. They may want me to come up with the concept for it. Alternatively, there are a lot of clients who come to us with a very strong vision and I’ll try and interpret that. Both approaches work, as long as there’s a strong enough idea and a clear vision.” Whatever the concept, John looks to make it as simple as possible, owing much to his British sensibility, making the hair the strongest and most focal aspect of any image. Never cast in shadow or manipulating images—instead John captures the very essence of the hair. “I think a lot of hairdressers think it’s a pressure working with us because we don’t hide anything. I think there’s a purity to what we do. We want to see every detail we possibly can.” This attention to hair has won John and his team countless international awards, SalonNV wondered, with such an illustrious career what could John’s personal highlights be? “It’s an old, worn-out phrase “you’re only as good

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as your last collection”. We’ve been very fortunate over the years, we’ve had a lot of contact with really good hairdressers and we’ve won something in the region of 30 BHA awards. “When anyone looks at the timeline those are the things they would pick out as highlights because people are award obsessed. For me, the most important thing is people like what I do and as

“

A lot of people think hairdressing and photography is an art form, but I don’t. I think it’s a craft where you learn and do something with your hands.

”

long as I’m happy with my work—I’m ok. “Awards have almost become the focal point of the industry and I think

a lot of this obsession is unhealthy. I think with the financial climate at the moment people need to think much, much more about making their brand more personal—doing the show and photographic work should grow your brand. “The people who have been really big and successful in the industry like Toni&Guy, Sasoon, Rainbow Room, and RUSH have won a lot of awards, but it’s a by-product of them knowing what their brand is and they never defer from that.” John is keen to point out that every big country in the industry has its own distinct aesthetic. “Britain is largely London orientated with strong, very graphic haircuts. In America, the aesthetic is much dressier and produced and they love colour—everyone that wins [awards] in America is colour heavy, and they love things very much on the verge of being avant-garde. What we do here doesn’t really work in America, but adding the strength and simplicity of Britain to the America aesthetic has made us very successful. “The interesting thing about Australia is that it’s a very small marketplace, but there’s a strong band of about a dozen hairdressers that are renowned worldwide. It’s amazing and I think they’ve shaken the hairdressing world up in the last few years because they’re producing great photographic work and they have a very radical aesthetic. It almost has that 70s/80s punk aesthetic about it, which has been exciting.” John is a humble man, there’s no sense of pomp and grandeur in how he describes his work—as is true of many great creatives. And his parting sentiments to SalonNV are simple and clear—that for anyone to make a satisfying and lasting career in our industry you need to work hard and hone every skill you possibly can.

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P R O D U C T ENVY

EDITOR’S CHOICE

EDITOR’S COMMENT This month’s Editor’s Choice has a mix of everything you’ll need in your life. Getting your clients ready for a big night out or a photo shoot? The new ghd glide could be the magic tool to keep hair fresh and sleek throughout.

Elemis Superfood Kefir-Tea Mist Feed your skin with this hydrating 4-in-1 treatment mist. Infused with anti-oxidant rich Rooibos Tea extract and vegan, soy-derived Kefir Ferment to help soothe and brighten the complexion. Organic Aloe Vera, Coconut Water, and a natural prebiotic help to balance the skin, leaving it hydrated, with a healthy-looking glow. £26 elemis.com

Ibiza Hair EX4 Brush This high-quality Spanish brush is made from the most natural materials. Tight boar bristles reinforced with nylon are gentle on the hair while creating great tension for a silky-smooth finish. The cork handle is lightweight for a comfortable grip. £40.40 ibizahair.co.uk

ghd ghd glide Fudge Headpaint Headpaint from Fudge will help you achieve a full spectrum of rich and radiant reds, from cosmic coppers and cyclamens to multi-dimensional mahoganies. Infused with antioxidant-rich Pomegranate Oil, reducing hair porosity and keeping colour locked in for up to 30 washes.

The glide is ghd’s first hot brush, which tames and smooths dry hair effortlessly. The perfect partner for second day styling—with ghd glide you can roll out of bed and have beautiful locks ready to go. £125 ghdhair.com

£5.48 + VAT fudgeprofessional.com

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P R O D U C T ENVY

Dafni Allure Victorus Lashes Ultra Thick and Fuller Virtually weightless and soft to suite your natural lashes, Victorus Lashes will enhance the fullness of your natural lashes. It makes your eyelashes look very desirable and fuller.

£155

£5.50

dafnihair.com

victorusbeauty.com

Lomé Paris Permanent Hair Colour Crème, Pastel P.01 Ash Lomé Paris is a unique permanent hair colour cream. The wide range of shades answers all colour wishes, offering 100% grey coverage and long-lasting colour results at optimal hair condition. The special formulation of Lomé Paris gives the hair a unique bright and intense colour, in fact a natural-looking colour result with Intense Shine. Ultimate Color. Natural Touch.

This ceramic, cordless straightening brush combines DAFNI’s innovative technology with a revolutionary cordless design. Ergonomically designed, the DAFNI Allure fits comfortably in the palm of your hand and features long-lasting batteries making this the perfect travel companion.

GP21 Trimmer Panasonic The Panasonic Professional GP21 trimmer is for professionals who want an exceptionally close, precise, and clear cut. The light-weight and easy to hold trimmer is ideal for blending and neck/ beard touch ups, and provides 40 minutes of continuous, maximum power, cordless cutting. This trimmer is non-slip thanks to its rubber pads meaning precision trimming has never been easier. £59.40 + VAT salonsdirect.com

£6.76 + VAT (100ml) salon-services.com

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HAIR

Zen Hair Ultimate Weft Extensions These luxurious extensions are available in 30 shades and three different lengths—14”, 18” and 22” and can be cut and styled in the same way as natural hair. Made from 100% Virgin Remy human hair, this hair will last up to a year with proper love and care.

Evo Fabuloso Evo Fabuloso has a new identity, new shades, and now comes in a fresh, squeeze tube. Designed to refresh, tone, and revive your hair in just three minutes, allowing easy maintenance so you can embrace your hair’s vibrancy.

From £135 zenhair.co

£25 (220ml) Evohair.com

Keratease Blond Absolu – Masque Ultra Violet Keratease’s new rich purple mask removes unwanted yellow undertones, while hydrating and restoring the hair. This non-staining mask can be used once a week, or as needed to keep your hair luminous and cool. £35 keratease.co.uk

Matrix Biolage R.A.W Re-Hydrate Mask Transform dull, dry hair with the Biolage R.A.W. ReHydrate Mask. Utilising plant-based extracts to deliver nourishing natural care, the creamy formula envelopes hair with essential moisture and vitamins. An ideal deep conditioning treatment, the hair mask leaves tresses feeling softened and revitalised with enhanced moisture retention for long-lasting results. £30.99 feelunique.com

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Rose and Caramel Nudity The world’s first cream spray tan. Cream based spray tans go deeper into the skin giving a more natural looking tan that wears off evenly. Nudity has combined the familiar features of a usual waterbased spray tan with all the skin benefits of a cream tan. £49.99 (1litre) roseandcaramel.co.uk

P R O D U C T ENVY

SKIN & MAKEUP

Dr.’s Remedy Pretty Metallics From a new line of podiatrist formulated, vitamin enriched nail care you won’t see in traditional lacquers. Dr.’s Remedy Enriched Nail Polishes minimise the appearance of dry or brittle nails, improving the wear-time of your colour and hydrating the cuticle. £6.95 + VAT dltpodiatry.co.uk

#Organics #Organics stay away from all things stereotypical “Cannabis”, and with the slogan “Grown in Nature, Defined by Science”, the company leading this new CBD market that is driven purely by creating the “Feel Good Factor”. £39.95 Use product code SNV1 for 10% off your order.

Matakki Gorudo Set Matakki are innovators and leaders in professional scissor design. The Matakki Gorudo is constructed from premium Japanese Aichi 440C steel with a Rockwell Hardness of 62 creating a super fine and sharp convex cutting edge. £210 matakki.com

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FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

P R O D U C T ENVY

Ellia HoMedics Blossom Ultrasonic Diffuser—Grey Ellia transforms your space with soothing diffusion and 100% pure essential oils, paired together in the Ellia Blossom diffuser. With its delicate, teardrop-shaped design, the Ellia Blossom Diffuser makes a perfect accessory for any room. The Blossom Diffuser delivers up to six hours of continuous runtime and features a colour-changing trim to enhance relaxation. £39.96 + VAT salon-services.com

Kobe Lunar Scissor Angled thumb ring and offset handles lower your arm position for less tiring cutting, while fully convex, slicing blades give superb performance. Comes in right or left-handed and is supplied with a black, leatherette scissor case and four finger-ring inserts. Sizes: 5.0 (right only), 5.5 or 6 inches. £139 coolblades.co.uk

Kobe Lunar Thinner Ergonomic, comfortable cutting thanks to an angled thumb ring and offset handles. Convex, hollowground blades give a perfect cut. Available in right or left-handed with 40 teeth or right-handed only with 20 or 30 teeth. Free scissor case, lifetime guarantee, and two years’ free servicing. £139 coolblades.co.uk

Takara Belmont Apollo 2 Takara Belmont’s Apollo 2 chair is a modern classic. The legendary chair now features an optional hell-rest for bringing barbering tradition into a modern age. takarahairdressing.co.uk

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Christophe Gaillet Hair: Christophe Gaillet Photo: Weronika Kosinska Makeup: Izabela Szelagowska Stylism: Waleria Tokarzewska Production: MK Production & Christophe Gaillet

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BRIDAL HAIR TRENDS 2019 It’s the biggest day of some women’s lives and certainly the most photographed one. With that many apertures flashing every detail has to be planned and executed to perfection. Classic hair styles will also be popular, but for those more daring and bolder—Westrow codirector, Steve Rowbottom has unveiled his predictions for this summer’s upcoming bridal trends. Working out what styles will take off for brides is a challenge in itself. From punk brides to a massive turn up in volume, 2019 is set to be a very exciting year in the world of bridal hair. Here are the looks Steve predicts will be massive this year: TH E N EW BRIDAL BRAID Braids have become a go-to style for brides in recent years. Their ability to look romantic, without appearing whimsical, makes them a holy grail in terms of bridal hairstyles. Many bridal designers chose braids for their spring/summer 19 showcase— Cymbeline and Suzanne Neville, to name just two—but it was Berta’s models that really nailed a fresh and exciting take on bridal braids. Backstage, models were given dramatic plaited partings—centre-partings bordered by twin scalp braids that fed into fierce ponytails. It was a style that looked edgy, modern, and unique, and an interesting move away from traditional bridal styles, making it ideal for brides who like to play around with style boundaries. This trend would be perfect for modern beach nuptials, and with the hair swept away from the face, would really suit destination weddings where heat and humidity threaten sleeker styles.

THE D E CO NTRU ST ED C H I G N ON For some brides only an updo will do. To avoid “hair up” looking dated and overly traditional—a common trap with bridal updos—brides-to-be should avoid styles that look too immaculate, that involve traditional tonged curls, or that include a lot of structure. Instead, encourage brides to take inspiration from Gracy Accad’s spring/ summer 19 bridal show. Where models sported chignon-inspired styles that were swept back and up, but in a way that was soft, relaxed, and fuss-free. Gentle volume through the top section and fine wisps of hair pulled loose around the face creating a frame. 66 | SalonNV Magazine

To recreate this look on your client, you want to create a deconstructed chignon that sits higher on the head than a traditional chignon. First, add volume by prepping the roots and lengths with a product like L’Oréal Professionnel's Messy Cliché Spray. Next, gently tease hair back, retaining volume at the roots, before pulling the lengths up into a messy chignon. Use fingers to gently tease hairs out of the bun, for a modern dishevelled finish, before adding plenty of strong hold spray. Finally, use a small section of hair to cover the base of the bun, or finish the look by adding a floral headpiece—this season’s hottest bridal accessory.

TURN U P TH E VO LU M E Half-up styles are becoming increasingly popular with brides and with good reason! Far from being the non-committal option between hair down and hair up, these flattering styles boast all the sex appeal that comes with wearing long hair loose over the shoulders. Together with the ease of wear an updo provides, it’s hardly surprising it’s become such a go-to look for brides-to-be. This season, the half-updo has had a makeover, thanks to Adam Zohar’s bridal show. The result? The volumised top section has been shunned in favour of just pulling back the face-framing layers of hair and pinning in place at the back of the head. What this style loses in volume, it gains back ten-fold in style kudos. We predict this look will be a huge hit with 2019’s most fashionable brides.

N EW BO HO BRIDE Forget bohemian bridal looks—2019 will be the year of the punk bride. Raw, edgy, and totally dishevelled, the punky bridal styles dreamt up by Naeem Khan are everything a bride typically doesn’t want from her wedding day do—yet we see a hot trend emerging here. Sleek roots contrast with twists piled high on the head, for a statement look that is totally extra. This trend won’t be for everyone but is perfect for brides who want to shun tradition with a high-impact style that really stands out.

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MELANIE Sorrow Photography: Laura Anne Watson Photography, Brandi Sisson Photography, Kathryn Elisabeth Photographs.

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WEDDING NAILS & BEAUTY Helena Linsky, co-director of Q61 Nail and Beauty Studio reveals her predictions for the biggest nail and beauty bridal trends for SS19. Helena Linsky

G I LT T R IP Metallic nails are another huge nail trend we predict will be popular with the modern bride, as an alternative to matt and gloss nude shades. At Rodarte’s SS19 show, models sported nails adorned in various metallic shades of gold, silver, and rose gold. Which look simply stunning worn against a white, cream, or ivory wedding dress and when matched to the bride’s jewellery or headwear. To achieve the look on your client, carefully apply thin layers of gold-leaf foil, or for a quicker route to foileffect nails, try a varnish with a metal-look finish. For the more daring bride, or for a destination summer wedding, chrome metallic nails in this summer’s hottest shade— icy light blue—would work amazingly as a bride’s something blue, paired against tanned summer skin and a sleek modern dress.

WH ITE HOT Many of our bridal clients want statement nails that remain chic and elegant, and the perfect way to achieve that balance is to opt for a matte finish in a block colour. We love the standout look of matte white nails on short, gently squared off talons, especially on bohemian brides. We predict this look will be in huge demand this wedding season.

N U D E A RT At Q61 we love to give our bridal nail clients a twist on classic looks. It’s important that a bride’s nails don’t detract from her dress or overpower her entire look, however, this doesn’t mean that she needs to opt for a plain nude shade or French manicure. For brides who prefer a more modern take on traditional styles and shades, nail art on a nude base can look really fresh and exciting. When done correctly, can be subtle and complementary to the bride’s overall finished look. Nail art doesn’t always need to be colourful or obvious and at the SS19 Fashion Week shows, designers went crazy for really subtle takes on graphic nail art. At House of Holland, thin white stripes adorned nude bases—at Monse tiny graphic shapes were painted in shiny shades of nude and white. While Oscar De La Renta’s “negative space moon manicure” was a modern take on the French mani, with clear half-moons and a milky nude shade across the length of the nail. The effect of this nude nail art is just the right amount of eye-catching, making it ideal for brides who want an edgier look. 72 | SalonNV Magazine

S C ARLET FEVER Red nails are bold, romantic, and sexy—everything a modern bride should be. Plus, they look stunning against white, making them a perfect bridal accessory. This season’s way to wear scarlet nails is to make them less classic and more twisted—our favourites were the reverse manis in two almost identical shades of red, as seen at Veronica Beard’s NYFW show and the sheer red squared acrylic talons at Area’s SS19 show. At Q61 we’ve created a look that combines lengthy oval tips with a love-heart design in cherry red. We saw plenty of requests for this look on Valentine’s Day and we fully expect it to be a hit with our more daring bridal clients of 2019. HIGH B RO W Really full and fluffy brushed-up brows are a stunning look—both flattering and natural looking—a dreamy style for brides. Luckily, they’re also bang on trend this season, with Jeremy Scott, Phillip Lim, and Oscar De La Renta’s SS19 models sporting brushed-up full brows. We’re taking our cue from Alice Temperley’s gorgeously bushy-browed models and really encouraging our bridal clients to enhance their natural arches for their big day. To recreate this look, we offer the High Definition Brows treatment, maintaining the length through the front section of the brows. Eyebrow hair should then be brushed upwards to create as much texture as required. The shade of the brows should be multi-tonal throughout, while hairs should be visible. Use a fine brow pencil to draw on the hair, creating precise fine lines. Gently brush brows into place, using a clear brow gel for hold. At Alice Temperley SS19 these luscious looking brows were paired with molten gold painted lids, soft feline liner flicks, and a delicious coral lip—it’s a look that is suitably glossy, perfectly natural, and oh-so-fresh for this season’s brides.

G E T LA SH E D Thick lustrous lashes were in full force at the SS19 shows including Tom Ford, Fendi, Moschino, and Prada—and this is a trend that is ideal for brides. Our range of temporary lash extensions, from Russian Volume to the more natural looking Classic, are very popular with our bridal clients, giving lashes a full, long, and luscious appearance, without leaving the telltale line of strip lashes. They also last much longer than strip fake lashes—up to three weeks—so brides can confidently flutter their lashes all day and night, safe in the knowledge that they will last for the duration of the honeymoon too.

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OLGA Markuse Accessories: Ivy & I Bridal, Debbie Carlisle

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Wilderness Bride S T E P - B Y- S T E P

Jaye MacDonald from the multi-award winning Aberdeen salon, Linton & Mac shows us how to create her Wilderness Bride... CREDITS Jaye MacDonald

Step-by-step hair: Jaye MacDonald Photography (Photo shoot): Emma Lawson Model: Hannah Blakely

STEP ONE

STEP TWO

STEP THREE

STEP FOUR

Drench the hair with Windle & Moodie Fortifying Spray. This creates a foundation and adds heat protection.

Smooth with a brush to get rid of flyaways.

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PRODUCTS AND TOOLS

Windle & Moodie: Fortifying Spray, Light Satin Spray, Light Shine Spray, Sculpture Hairspray Spray, 25” WAM Revolving Tong

Blast the hair with a drier.

Using medium size tongs, take a large section and work around the head. Whilst tonging use Windle & Moodie Light Satin Spray to add another layer of heat protection with light hold and secure with curl clips.

STEP FIVE

Allow the hair to cool.

STEP SIX

Brush the hair out using a dressing out brush.

STEP SEVEN

Spray the hair again with the W&M Light Satin Spray to smooth out any flyaways.

STEP EIGHT

Use the W&M Shine Spray to finish the look.

STEP NINE

Apply clips to give the look a quirky edge. We used clips on both sides of the look to give a contemporary, Alexa Chung vibe.

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Hair: Jen Linton and Jaye MacDonald, Linton & Mac Photography: Emma Lawson Makeup: Rae Mathieson Flowers: Kim Dalglish Stationery: Paper Skelton Cake: Love Laura Lane Dresses: Ivory Grace; Flossy and Dossy Location: Fasque House

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Making social media work for you

PHILIPP HAUG

You’ll have heard influencers shouting from the rooftops about the importance of social media for salons and hair professionals—and they aren’t wrong to do so. Some still remain unconvinced of the power platforms such as Instagram have to convert numbers on a screen to fresh clientele, but as more and more hair and beauty professionals look to get their talents noticed on the gram, making social media work for you is essential.

Philipp Haug

London Hairdresser of the Year and the international artistic director for TONI&GUY, Philipp Haug, has amassed an Instagram following of over 21,000—since winning London Hairdresser of the Year his following has increased. Here Philipp gives his top tips for using social media to promote your images, your achievements, and your social media brand.

4. Share work from your past collections. I’ve created work over the years that I am proud of and still love now. I will repost them for new followers to look at. 5. Always use hashtags that are relevant to you, your salon, and your win.

1. Instagram is the perfect platform to showcase your work to the world, so use it well and post regularly.

6. Post Instagram Stories about what you are doing to give your followers an insight into your working day—it also makes your account feel more authentic.

2. Make sure you credit everyone involved in the creation of the image. It’s courteous and you would want them to do the same.

7. If your imagery is posted on someone else’s feed, repost it and share it with your followers.

3. If you’ve won an award post a picture of you on the night or with your award. Clients and other hairdressers want to share in your success and enjoy seeing you happy.

Find out more about Philipp: www.toniandguy.com Instagram: @philipp_haug

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MIAMI-NICE

LINTON & MAC Hair: Linton & Mac Photography: Robert Hunter Makeup: Emma Williams

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Sylvan

OF THE WOODS Hair: Ethos Creative Team Styling: Ailsa McLaggan Makeup: Racquella Cass Styling: Trouble At Mill, Manchester Photography: Jamie Cowlishaw

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The pros and cons of

S E L F- E M P L O Y M E N T There’s a lot of information to read and absorb about the recent debates over being employed vs self-employed. The gig economy has become a contentious topic in recent years—defined as any labour market where there is a high proportion of short term or freelance work, as opposed to permanent jobs. David Redfern, founder of DSR Tax Claims has recently called for HMRC to commit to further support for self-employed workers. Self-employment as a whole has seen a massive boom in the UK. According to DSR Tax Claims, there was a 1.5 million increase in self-employed workers from 2001. Additionally, according to the NHF, an estimated 48% (76,000) of hair professionals and barbers are self-employed, against 57% (48,000) of those working in the beauty industry. Salons consider having self-employed workers as a way of reducing costs and for stylists, nail technicians, and MUAs self-employment can be a potential gateway to owning their own business—despite not being entitled to many of the rights covered under European employment law. HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS On the self-employed side as long as you’re a great hairdresser, colourist, nail technician, or lash artist, with a thorough menu and unparalleled customer repour, people will flock to you. However, there could be some potential pitfalls in relation to how you operate as an individual within a greater salon space.

SALON OWNERS Some might be concerned about work ethic or your brand being diluted, as their business is theirs and not yours. However, there are a wealth of opportunities available for you as a business owner. Pros: • You don’t have to pay tax or National Insurance contributions for self-employed staff. • Self-employed professionals aren’t entitled to holiday pay, sick, or maternity pay.

• Avoid the potential pitfalls of staff management. Cons: • Cannot treat self-employed professionals as if they’re staff— doing so could lead to costly legal consequences. • Cannot control times or days of working. • Self-employed professionals can charge as they want and offer a menu separate from your business.

Pros: • Self-employment can be the first step on your road to building an independent business. • You can set your own schedule and offerings and ultimately make the calls that will affect your business. • You’re in control of your own NI and tax, which could be incredibly beneficial for you as opposed to employment. • You can develop your own client base independent of the business you operate from. Cons: • You aren’t entitled to sick pay, holiday, or maternity pay. • You are responsible for building your own client base, which may be hard if you’re new to an area. • You still represent the salon you operate from and their reputation.

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Jason Collier

2019 red carpet trends As we head into spring, we head into awards season with red carpets galore. I always find this time of the year very telling in terms of trends; with hundreds of celebrities all keen to garner press coverage, there’s always lots of innovation, beauty, and new looks to process. Usually, there are a few big-hitters that make their way into the filter of the general public. Sure, the avant-garde curly quiff looks great with an equally ostentatious dress, but how many of us will actually ask a stylist to recreate that look in the chair? The looks to take from red carpets are those that are relatively simple to recreate, that have an impact, or just add a fresh twist on a tried-and-trusted style. For me, I always find that there are a few looks that come up time and time again across each awards season, and it’s these that we should pay particular attention to. After all, it’s those looks that the world’s best hairdressers have chosen for their A-list clients for events where they’re likely to hit the front pages and you can believe there’s a method behind their choices. I often find red-carpet looks at this time of year are key influences for spring/ summer styles; they’re often fresh and fun, and with spring only a few weeks away, it makes sense for them to start hitting the high street almost immediately after the red carpet. So with that in mind, I’ve taken a look at the most popular looks from the red carpets of 2019 so far, and can share with you why I think they’re going to be worn by all of us by the time summer rolls around… THE EAR TUCK This is less of a hairstyle and more of a styling trick, but this just kept cropping up at the awards ceremonies and it’s easy to see why. Tucking the hair behind the ears puts full focus on both your face and your outfit, but it’s also a statement in itself. It’s paring back the hair to give a very sleek effect, which looks very minimalistic and cool, and it means that you can contrast it with a very bold outfit, and it won’t look “too much”. A lot of celebrities used this clever trick recently; Rachel Weisz wore her loose waves tucked behind her ears with a sharp central parting and paired the look with a dramatic, frilly gown at the BAFTAs, and Thandie Newton opted for super-long, super-sleek hair tucked back to contrast with her ruffled ballgown. But it’s not just a look for longer locks; Dua Lipa pulled her bob back behind her ears for her BRITS look earlier this month, and accentuated the style with a pair of oversized earrings. It strikes the 86 | SalonNV Magazine

perfect balance when other elements of your outfit are particularly colourful or larger than life. THE QUIFF It’s a retro look that’s not for the wallflowers among us, but this style has made ripples on both sides of the pond. Quiffs give volume, height, and drama to a look without adding width. Making the look ideal if you’re going for an outfit which shows off the shoulders, back or décolletage, or if it has oversized sleeves. Think Cardi B in her eye-catching vintage Mugler gown at the Grammys—with an outfit like that, she needed to make sure her hair wasn’t a distraction, so a sleek quiff is the best option. Margot Robbie also wore the look beautifully at the BAFTAs; her dreamy Chanel dress had wide shoulder detailing, so her choice of a side-swept quiff allowed the dress to take centre-stage. However, if your overall aesthetic is much sleeker and minimal than these heavily embellished or “out there” outfits, think along the lines of Claire Foy. She wore her quiff with a very simple dress for a Grecianinspired look that felt very contemporary, modern, and beautiful. However, you choose to wear your quiff, make sure it’s very sleek and tidy. SLEEK PONIES Much like the wet-look style, this is another pared-back style that adds drama to a sleeker or simpler outfit—I particularly love it with a suit as it feels really androgynous and sexy. Irina Shayk paired a super-sleek low pony with a tuxedo at the BAFTAs, whilst Beyoncé opted for a textured low pony with her own colourful suit to accept her BRIT award. It’s such an easy look to achieve, but it does need to be done right to make sure that it looks intentionally slick and glamorous—a low sleek pony shouldn’t be too messy or fluffy unless you’re going for that Parisian bedhead vibe. Brush it back and slick down with a fine-toothed comb and fasten with a snag-free band. Add ribbons to feminise the look, or some bejewelled or embellished clips or

Jason Collier slides to keep it looking really current. ETHEREAL UPDO Perfect for brides, or when you just want to feel extra pretty, this is a beautiful look that I definitely think we’ll be seeing more of over the spring/summer season. I think of this style defined as swept back off the face, but with a little volume and looseness to it, so that it looks fresh, romantic, and fairytale-fabulous. Of course, the fairytale factor has been proven by our very own real-life Princess, the Duchess of Cambridge, who wore this dreamy style with an equally regal McQueen ballgown to the BAFTAs, but I’ve spotted plenty of other celebs sporting the style too. Millie Mackintosh exuded Midsummer Night’s Dream vibes with her choice of dress, matched with this fairy-princess updo, and Poldark star Eleanor Tomlinson looked romantic and super-feminine with additional soft strands loose around her face. To get this look, don’t be too precious when styling the hair, and don’t be afraid to add a little height where it’s needed, particularly at the crown and around the hairline. And to achieve that beautifully ruffled and romantic texture, spritz a makeup brush with salt spray or hairspray and apply it in gentle circular motions to the hairline, to encourage a sense of looseness, without static.

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