SalonNV Issue 25

SALONNV ISSUE 25

SALON Training

Holiday hair Sustainability

SPRING 2019

The Social, London now on e-chair.com

Help your business reach its full potential 1. List your space on e-chair.com 2. Connect with freelancers in your area 3. Profit from filling your empty chairs “e-chair.com is the perfect platform for independent stylists to judge what salons work best for them, from environment, location, and price. I’d recommend having a look to see all potential chair renting salons in one location, made easy.”

Craig Andrew, Hairdresser “As a salon owner, the ease of use is what I really love about e-chair.com. Whether you’re booking or letting, the simplicity of e-chair.com makes it a pleasant experience and so much quicker.

Everyone will love this!”

Alan Findlay, Owner, Rebel Rebel

Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules

Join today at e-chair.com

Hair: Bad Apple Hair Art Team – James Earnshaw, Aid Tams + Steph Peckmore Photography: Alex Barron-Hough Products: TIGI Professional Models: Ana Schurmann, Lizzie Mawson, Gift Nyakuta, Wei Lin Makeup: Katie Moore Styling: Clare Frith

SHOWCASE

Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Head Writer Matthew McLaughlin | Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Manager Kat Heron | Writers Caitlin Fyffe and Siobhan MacDonald Design & Marketing PrintNV | Thanks: The Bad Apple Hair Art Team, Winnie Awa, Dr Sharon Wong, Advanced Retail Solutions, ghd, The Henna Club, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Helena Linsky, Remi Cachet, Matakki, Akito Scissors, Cos Sakkas, Fallon Carberry, Suzie McGill, Katie Hellier, Edward Hemmings, Ross Miller, Emil McMahon, Christine Margossian, Wella, Sally Brooks, Heffy Wheeler, Simon Stainton, Seven Publicity, Redmane Media, Deborah Johnson, Essence PR, LWPR, Vivid PR, ACJ PR and Webber Shandwick.

Columnists: Edward Hemmings, Emil McMahon, Fallon Carberry, Katie Hellier, Ross Miller and Suzie McGill | Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 5 Newton Place, Glasgow G3 7PR Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and Gallus Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Š Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

SalonNV Magazine | 3

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CONTENTS

I S S U E 25 News

6

56

ghd’s festival style

Fellowship

9

61

Fallon Carberry

SHABA

12

63

Eco salons

Remi Cachet

16

64

Sustainable salons

Wella trend report

18

66

Holiday hair prep

SS19 hair trends

24

68

E-commerce

Short hair

27

72

Suzie McGill

Advanced Pro Salon

28

73

Edward Hemmings

Female hair loss

30

74

Emil McMahon

Antidote Street Salon

36

75

Ross Miller

Smart salons

38

76

Kaite Hellier

Bad Apple Hair

40

80

Training dates

Products

44

84

Instagram showcase

52

86

New to e-chair.com

54

88

In the chair

Scissors Henna brows

Editor’s Comment It’s that time of year when schools are out and leavers get to finally follower their passions. This means a whole new flock of hair and beauty professionals will begin their careers in colleges or as apprentices. With this in mind, this issue we’re focusing on education, in particular on the roles and responsibilities everyone has in education. This is the most crucial part of any professional’s career, where they become as much a reflection of their mentors as they are of their own hard work.

Getting ready for summer means two things; holidays and festivals. We’ve asked some experts for their top tips for getting ready for the sun, as well as the very best styles sure to take over the summer. Not forgetting nail trends you’ll be sure to see coming in and out of your salons.

Enjoy!

Sustainability is a hot button topic among the up and coming generation, so we’ve highlight some of the amazing salons already incorporating sustainability and eco-friendly practices into their ethos.

We also spoke to Winnie Awa, the founder of Antidote Street to ask her about the new Antidote Street Salon Manifesto—a group of salons dedicated to changing consumer perceptions of afro hairdressers.

Female hair loss isn’t something too commonly talked about, SalonNV caught up with Dr Sharon Wong about the leading causes.

Not just this but we’ve got a whole issue packed with the usual features, products and showcase images you’ve come to expect from SalonNV.

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS Hair Expo Australia Hair Expo Australia welcomes Paul Mitchell icons to the 2019 education line-up and announces HAIRBIZ magazine as official media partner.

Hair Expo Australia is welcoming industry icons Robert Cromeans and Angus Mitchell to the line-up of international artists in this year’s education program, representing luxury hair care brand Paul Mitchell.

“As key figures in the iconic Paul Mitchell brand, Robert and Angus are keen to connect with their Australian customers and family, and we are honoured to have them join this year’s Hair Expo line up and have had the opportunity to inspire Australian hairdressers – both artistically and commercially,” said John Pizzey, managing director of Six Five Salon Group.

Visitors to Hair Expo Australia will have numerous opportunities to see the pair in action during three education sessions on the main stage. Attendees will be taken through inspiring colour and advanced world class finishing techniques, as well as the 2019 Top Salon Summit, the GenNext closing show, and on the Paul Mitchell exhibition stand (stand SS02).

Hair Expo Australia has partnered with leading trade magazine HAIRBIZ, owned

by Mocha Publishing, as the official media

ASP create stunning sunkissed blonde lights There’s a new way to create natural looking sunkissed blonde effects with Spirit Lights from ASP Affinage Salon Professional.

The off-scalp system allows you to lighten natural or coloured hair up to 3 levels whilst delivering bespoke subtle tones from a choice of 4 pigments – perfect for scattering soft summery highlights, balayage or freehand techniques.

The system consists of: 4 pigments (50m) – blue, violet / silver, beige, and brown. Each contain moisturising oils and protective corn protein to help leave hair in optimum condition. Salon price £9.99 + VAT Lightening powder (400g) containing hydrolysed silk protein and keolin to protect the cuticle and strengthen the hair. Salon price £13.99 + VAT For optimum results, Spirit Lights should be mixed with ASP Crème Developer. You can alter the consistency to suit the technique, making Spirit Lights incredibly versatile.

Spirit Lights Introductory Kits are available which include everything needed to get started, including one of each shade, powder, Crème Developers, a palette, brush, bowl and spatula. Intro kits are £65+ VAT.

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partner for the Hair Expo Awards 2019.

HAIRBIZ joins leading Australian scissor brand Excellent Edges, heat styling brand Hot Tools, and colour brand Original & Mineral (O&M) in a new multi-brand partnership model this year.

“We are thrilled to welcome HAIRBIZ as the Official Media Partner of our coveted Hair Expo Awards for 2019. We see this collaboration as a fantastic opportunity to heighten what is already a strong working relationship with HAIRBIZ. We believe the partnership will provide valuable opportunities for our finalists and winners to receive first rate exposure over print and online platforms for their outstanding collections,” said Cory Watson, event director for Hair Expo Australia.

Finalists and winners of the coveted Hair Expo Awards will also enjoy additional exposure in HAIRBIZ and BARBERSHOP magazines, including a full feature interview for the 2019 HAIR EXPO AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR. Early bird tickets for Hair Expo are on sale until midnight AEST Thursday 18 April.

Hair expo Australia takes place 8-10 June 2019 at the International Convention Centre Sydney (ICC Sydney). See www. hairexpoaustralia.com to purchase tickets and see full education program.

Barrie Stephen Named First Sir Thomas White Loan Charity Patron Barrie Stephen, one of Leicestershire’s most renowned business owners, has become the first-ever patron of The Sir Thomas White Loan Charity.

Linton & Mac in the regional finals of L’Oreal Colour Trophy 2019 Three teams from creative Aberdeen city centre salon made it through to regional finals of prestigious industry awards, L’Oreal Colour Trophy 2019.

Ross Hume & Natasha McIntyre for Men’s Image Alison Simpson & Natalie Stephen for Men’s image Jonny Brier for Female Colour Trophy Linton & Mac, the award-winning Aberdeen based hair salon is celebrating after three teams of their staff made it through to the finals of L’Oreal Colour Trophy, which is held in Glasgow at the end of the month.

Sunday 31 March will see finalists from all over Scotland come together to style their colour models before being judged by a top panel of big names in the hairdressing industry.

Getting through this stage would see the winners go onto London in June.

Linton & Mac’s own colour expert Sarah Black went onto win the national crown in 2017.

Within the first three years of trading, Linton & Mac has already won 14 trophies.

23-years-ago the charity provided one of its interest-free business loans to help Barrie establish his first salon.

Barrie Stephen Hair, now based at Friars Mill in Leicester city centre has established itself as a household name across the UK. The Leicester native, who owns five award-winning salons across Leicestershire alongside other brands is now recognised as one of the leading hair designers with a plethora of industry accolades, including Leicestershire Businessman of the Year.

The Sir Thomas White Loan Charity, which provides interest-free loans to developing businesses around Leicester and Rutland, has helped thousands of young entrepreneurs realise their dreams, with Barrie Stephen Hair being the most recognised business to have benefited.

In 1996, Barrie applied to the charity for a loan to help transform a butcher’s shop in Anstey into a sophisticated boutique salon, with services that rival established London Salons.

Now a patron of the charity, Barrie is keen to help spread awareness to young people through attending events and speaking about his experience of working with The Sir Thomas White Loan Charity.

I N D U S T R Y NEWS

British Airways First Amenity Kits British skincare brand ELEMIS is proud to announce a new partnership with British Airways to bring exclusive luxury skin and body care collections to the airline’s first class customers.

The amenity kits feature hand painted prints designed exclusively

by Britsh fashion brand Temperley London—a brand synonymous with ELEMIS British Heritage and brand ethos.

The women’s amenity kit features the Temperley ‘Star’ print—an eye catching designed created from motifs used in the Temperley Spring The airline has commissioned ELEMIS to provide contents for amenity 2019 collection. The men’s kit has a minimalist exterior with elements from kits for its first cabin as part of their £6.5bn investment plan for customers the ‘Star’ print decorating the interior.

Temperley played with fabrications over the next five years. using a durable satin for the women The luxury travel bags feature and rich velvet for the men.

ELEMIS’ award-winning best sellers Noella Gabriel, ELEMIS president alongside new product launches like commented, “Skin, body and wellness Ultra Smart Pro Collagen, a bespoke skincare range that adapts to anyone’s lie at the heart of ELEMIS, making this on-board partnership a perfect fit with needs and promotes younger, British Airways’ core values. ELEMIS luminous skin as well as the new Pro are thrilled to be the official supplier of Collagen Rose Mist a multi-tasking the British Airways First amenity kits in mist that delivers instant and longwhat’s set to be an exciting centenary term hydration leaving skin feeling year for the airline.” plump and visibly smooth.

Dr Nestor’s Medical & Cosmetic Centre Appoints Head Therapist and Announces New Skin Health Treatments The award-winning Dr Nestor’s Medical & Cosmetic Centre has appointed a new head therapist, bringing a range of revolutionary skincare treatments to enhance, brighten and treat problematic skin.

Head therapist Helen Cowan has seven years’ experience in the beauty industry, specialising in cosmetic and aesthetic services which are focussed on improving skin health. Helen is qualified in the latest techniques for facial skincare, including chemical peels, microdermabrasion, skin needling and radio frequency. Helen brings her passion for skin solutions to the clinic helping her clients achieve their best ever complexions.

In her new role at the Medical & Cosmetic Centre, Helen will provide current skin health patients with tailored skincare programmes using ZO Skin Health products, alongside supplementary skincare treatments such as ZO Signature Peels to restore radiance and the revolutionary Laser Carbon Peel, which reduces pore size and oil production for a smoother, brighter complexion.

Dr Nestor Demosthenous, founder of Medical & Cosmetic Centre said: “Helen is a wonderful addition to our expanding team, allowing us to offer our patients new

treatments to help them achieve their skin goals. We thrive on being able to bring our patients a myriad of options to help them on their skincare journey and having Helen on board allows us to offer fantastic new supplementary treatments to our patients which support their existing medical skincare regimes and boost their results to the next level of radiant, healthy skin.”

Proud to offer patients pioneering technology in his field, Dr Nestor was among the first in Scotland to offer several procedures, including Silhouette Soft Non-Surgical Facial Thread Lifts and remains one of only five UK trainers for this treatment.

Helen Cowan commented: “I am delighted to join the team at Dr Nestor’s, the team at Dr Nestor’s, the skin health department already has a glowing reputation and I am excited to bring my own skills to the clinics patients, offering them an exciting range of highly effective treatments to help them look and feel their best.”

Dr Nestor won ‘Best Cosmetic Doctor 2018’ and the clinic won ‘Most Innovative Clinic’ at the 2018 Scottish Medical Cosmetic Awards.

Helen will be available for appointments five days a week, which can be booked by contacting the Medical & Cosmetic Centre directly. To make an appointment with Helen, telephone the clinic on 0131 467 1450 or email skin@ drnestor.co.uk.

Skull & Bone launch new campaign Skull & Bone Male Grooming have unveiled its latest campaign for 2019—Look The Part.

The campaign showcases the versatility of the brand and its product range, showing that the products can be used by all ages and all hair types.

The campaign also stands for all men who struggle with their appearance and lack of confidence, one of these people being creator and director of Skull & Bone, Calum McGowan.

The Look The Part Campaign has launched its first advert featuring the face of Skull & Bone, Shaun Garvey and is available to watch on all social media platforms and YouTube.

On the 22 March, the brand hosted a VIP black-tie event at the Aberdeen Altens Hotel where people from across the country came to raise a glass in celebration for the success and growth of the company over the past two years.

Eufora Brings Together Stylists from Around the World To ‘Become What You Imagine’ at their 2019 Global Connection Eufora International, one of the last independent and family owned salon professional haircare brands, recently held their bi-annual 2019 Global Connection event at the Marriott Marquis hotel in San Diego. Since Eufora International has never been the typical salon professional haircare brand, their Global Connection event was no different. Over 1,200 salon professionals from the UK, America and Japan came together for two days of educational events to encourage individuals to “become what you imagine”.

From the beginning, the atmosphere was buzzing with enthusiasm. Sticking to tradition, Beth Bewley, co-founder and CEO of Eufora International kicked off the event by pledging her commitment to serve hairdressers in every way possible. This is a mantra the company have maintained since their founding in 1977, adding a charming and personal touch to the show. Five Eufora National Trainers shared their inspiring journeys to become successful hair stylists, from embracing cultural differences, overcoming adversity even escaping international conflict zones after serving in the military.

The talented Erik Wahl, business strategist and graffiti, captivated the audience by sharing and demonstrating how creativity and artistry can lead to business success. During the two days, stylists and salon owners were treated to several different classes such as business building and workshops.

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Northern Hair Loss Clinic Rebrands and Renews Focus Northern Hair Loss Clinic, the Yorkshirebased company offering non-invasive hair replacement methods to women and transgender women, has undergone major rebranding focussing on expanding the firm’s offering nationwide.

The rebrand to Unlimited Hairloss Solutions signifies its evolution as a company and its response to the rapidly changing hair loss landscape and the changing face of today’s consumer.

Unlimited Hairloss Solutions is one of the small number of clinics in the UK specialising in non-invasive, non-surgical hair replacement systems and solutions. Launched in 2017, under its former moniker of the Northern

Hair Loss Clinic, the business was quickly established as an industry leader in the field of non-invasive hair replacement. The Huddersfield clinic being chosen as one of the only three clinics in the UK to offer the globally renowned CRL system, a highly advanced hair replacement technology by leading Italian laboratory Cesare Regazzi.

The brand rapidly positioned itself as one of the most innovative and forwardthinking hair loss specialists in the UK. The recent rebrand and accompanying website—unlimitedhairlosssolutions.co.uk—is an organic progression that is designed to develop the business in line with recent growth, and to expand from a Yorkshire based clinic into a national brand.

It’s expected that this strategic development

by Unlimited Hairloss Solutions will facilitate expansion of the brand and will assist

NHF/NBF survey findings show business rates put pressure on salons

Jason Taylor of Taylors & Co said: “I’d just like to say a huge thank you to everyone who came and supported us on the night.

“Such a great community and to have helped us raise over £6,000 for charity is astounding.

The valuations change every three years and reliefs are often short term and piecemeal means that the smallest salons cannot always rely on being exempt from business rates.

“So many brilliant people all in the one room together celebrating not just our centenary but also was a fantastic place Brighouse is.”

Larger salons are more likely to pay business rates, which are becoming an increasing financial burden.

One fifth of salons surveyed had improved their premises, ranging from complete refurbishments through to minor changes like air conditioning. Half said the knowledge that making improvements could lead to higher rates bills would put them off investing in their premises.

There are inconsistencies between local authorities in implementing discounts for businesses with a rateable value of £51,000 or less. 41% of salons surveyed did not know this relief was available to them or whether they applied for it or whether it would be automatically applied by their local authority.

The knowledge that online businesses and out of town distribution centres which supply the goods bought online pay so little in business rates is another source of frustration.

Hillary Hall, chief executive of NHF/NBF said: “We used the survey findings to respond to a Treasury Committee Review of business rates.

“We called for permanent and long-term business rates reliefs for small businesses

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Hayley Jennings, founder and co-director of Unlimited Hairloss Solutions said: “As part of the rebrand and re-launch as Unlimited Hairloss Solutions, we plan to continue to build on the strengths of our brand, while making our offerings accessible to even more women and transgender women. Our focus is on expanding beyond the North, and repositioning the business as a national enterprise, while continuing to refine our core concept—that of making effective surgery-free hair replacement methods easily accessible to more women and transgender women across the UK.”

for an evening of fine food, dancing and reminiscing, as the two salons celebrated a century of serving Brighouse’s barnets.

A recent survey by the NHF/NBF found that two thirds of hair salons, beauty salons and barbershops don’t pay business rates because they qualify small business rates relief.

Common frustrations for this are the difficulty of using the Check, Challenge, Appeal system.

Nearly one third (28%) had tried to challenge their business rates but found the system so difficult to use it had put them off entirely. One salon was taken to court because they could not get an accurate bill, the court ruled in their favour.

in rolling out its niche offerings nationwide. With plans to open more clinics across the UK, it’s hoped the rebranded clinic will be able to meet the growing demand from female hair loss clients beyond Yorkshire.

The original business was started by Edward Taylor in 1919 and has grown over the century to provide training and employment to five generations of hairdressers.

to help them plan, with more consistency between local authorities about reliefs are implemented.”

The government’s Committee and Local Government Select Committee report published last month highlighted Amazon contributes less than 1% of its turnover in business rates, whereas ‘bricks and mortar’ premises contribute anything from 2-7% of their turnover to business rates.

Local salons raise over £6,000 celebrate 100 years in business Brighouse’s most famous hairdressing family, the Taylors who own Taylors & Co and Edward & Co, raised over £6,000 for local charities to celebrate their centenary with the part to end all parties.

The event, organised by Gary and Jason Taylor held at the Brighouse Party Venue, saw over 140 local residents come together

Today, Edward & Co is run by Gary and Heather Taylor with their daughter Annabelle employed as a stylist; while Taylors & Co, the original family salon is owned by Jason Taylor.

Gary of Edward & Co said: “Our aim was to raise just £2,000 for Martin House for seriously ill children and the cancer ward at St James’ Hospital, Leeds, but we managed to smash this target!

“I think we’re still buzzing from the party, and it was over a week ago!”

Both salons pride themselves on delivering big city styles at local prices, with an emphasis on customer care and service.

Alongside their traditional services, they also offer hair replacement pieces for clients who have experienced hair loss from cancer treatments, alopecia and illness.

Brothers Gary and Jason are awardwinning stylists, with both holding the title of World Men’s Hairdressing Champion.

Gary collected the title of North Western Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards in 2012 and 2015 and is currently an Ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional.

Fellowship News

ClubStar Art Team 2019

The 2019 ClubStar Art Team undertook their first shoot under the watchful eye of Ashley Gamble.

Former F.A.M.E. Team member, Ashley Gamble, is the latest hairdressing mentor to lend his expert guidance to the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, giving back to the organisation which helped him make a name in the industry.

Ashley invited the ClubStar Art Team—the youngest members of the Fellowship—to his in-salon studio, where they created their very own collection of images in their first shoot.

Ashley has built a name for himself through his inspiring colour work. He showed the team how to work with wigs, wefts and temporary colours to create striking and dynamic imagery; tips and techniques which the team will be able to carry into future shoots and projects.

“This is the best shoot I’ve ever done,” said team member Georgina Kemnitz-Pryor from Karoliina Saunders Hair Design.

“Seeing the photos come together at the end of the day, and working together as a team was amazing. I came away with the insightful knowledge that I need to stay true to my own style and the work that I love, but still not be afraid to try new things.”

Reflecting on the day, Ashley Gamble said: “We loved having the ClubStar Art Team in our salon. They were a super-cool team with great energy levels and together we created some amazing imagery. I hope the team love them!

“As a former F.A.M.E. Team member myself, I know how important these opportunities are and want to thank the Fellowship for letting me pass on what I’ve learnt to the next generation of young hairdressing talent.”

ClubStar Art Team 2019 Jemma Clemas, Seckingtons Hair Salon Ciara Darcy, Bad Apple Hair Eloise Dudley, Toni&Guy Georgina Kemnitz-Pryor, Karoliina Saunders Hair Design Stuart Kimber, Spargo Hairdressing April Mash, Strangeways India Sparacia, Sculpture Salon Sophia Tsilidis, Headmasters Soho

SalonNV Magazine | 9

Fellowship News

Presidents night

Karine Jackson concluded her two-year presidency with a spectacular night at London’s fabulous Landmark hotel.

After two years as president of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Karine Jackson passed the torch to Ken Picton in a sensational evening celebrating the Fellowship and its contributions to the industry.

Hosted at the glittering Landmark

Project X The 2019 Project X Team were treated to a day of insightful education at the prestigious Sassoon Academy in London.

Learning at the Sassoon Academy in London is an incredible opportunity for any hairstylist—allowing them to follow in the footsteps of countless acclaimed, award-winning industry leaders.

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s 2019 Project X team recently enjoyed the opportunity to learn in the hallowed Sassoon Academy themselves, during an educational day arranged by their team leader, Kai Wan. Consultation was the key focus of the day, with the Sassoon team sharing the key questions they ask every client and walking the team through a typical consultation. Next, it was time for an upclose live demonstration, with members of the team showcasing two cuts and a colour, as well as a presentation of the new Sassoon collection.

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London Hotel in Marylebone, President’s Night celebrated the Fellowship and the remarkable contributions Karine has made during her reign.

The evening started with Champagne and canapes in the hotel’s grand palm-filled terrace, with models representing the Fellowship’s projects dotted throughout. Joining models from the F.A.M.E. Team, Project X, ClubStar Art Team and Colour Project were presentation models from Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year, Tina Farey, and winner of Fellowship Image of the Year, Robert Masciave.

Once guests took their seats in the ballroom, there was time for a look at more models from the teams as they were showcased in an inspiring runway presentation, with Karine sharing the stories and journeys of each project before their work was shown.

Then came time to announce the winner of the Christofer Mann Step Up and Shine Scholarship—one hairdresser who will go on to enjoy a year of incredible education thanks to a £2,500 bursary with support from the Fellowship In the afternoon, it was over to the Project X team to create their own interpretations of the new-season cuts and colours, creating mood boards which they then presented back to one another. Finally, it was time to get handson with models, with the Project X team creating their own finished looks.

“I was so excited for a day at the Sassoon Academy,” said Zara Clelland from Marc Antoni. “I’ve looked up to them for many years, both as a colourist and as a stylist, and it was amazing to get to learn from them.”

“Over the course of the day, we learned all about disconnection and how it can be implemented into everyday work in the salon,” she continued. “Learning how to apply it to everyday work, so it’s not always visible, was really insightful. Even the way I do my consultation will change after today—the way I look at my clients’ face shape and consider the overall suitability for them.”

Phillippa Lee from Yaxley Hair & Beauty agreed, adding: “It was so exciting to be back with the team in such an iconic building. Learning the Sassoon way of cutting was incredible, and I can’t wait to take back everything I’ve learnt about sectioning and disconnection to my salon clients.”

and mentor Debbie G. Amanda Linehan from Hot Trends Hair and Beauty in Kent was announced as the recipient of the amazing opportunity.

Of course, the main event of the evening was celebrating Karine’s achievements before handing over the reins to Ken Picton. During Karine’s tenure as president, she has launched the Barber Project and upcoming Digital Project, introduced the Live Lounge interview concept, taken the Fellowship on the road with more regional events than ever, increased membership and introduced a dynamic digital strategy.

“It has been an absolute privilege to be president of the Fellowship,” said Karine.

“I have loved every minute and am proud of the changes we have made during my tenure. I can’t think of anyone better to hand over to than Ken; I wish him every success and can’t wait to see the Fellowship continue to go from strength to strength.”

Then, it was over to Fellowship chairperson Simon Shaw to pass over the presidential chain to Ken Picton, ushering in a new and exciting era for the Fellowship for British Hairdressing.

PROJECT X 2019 Charlotte Johnson, The Annexx Clare Hatherill, The Chapel Dani Ball, Headquarters Emma Male, Em2 Janene Hawkins, Heavenly Hairstyling Krysia Eddery, Perfectly Posh Hair Harlee Gresty, Lewis Moore Salons Phillippa Lee, Yaxley Hair & Beauty Dan Law, Lara Johnson Lifestyle Rory Mason, Ashley Gamble Zara Clelland, Marc Antoni

Fellowship News

Colour Project On top of seeing up-close displays of Robert’s techniques, the team also used the day to plan and prep for their upcoming shoot, which Robert will be creative directing next month.

Lea Shaw from Rural Fringe said: “We had a brilliant day learning techniques and thinking about colour in a new way. We got to see the master at work demonstrating some of the techniques he used for his collections and see the full process of how he got the results.

“Seeing Robert use simple, quick techniques to create the most beautiful colours and have him explain his thought process from beginning to end was incredible,” she continued. “It was a really valuable insight. I can’t believe how much I’ve learnt after just two sessions with the Colour Project team. It’s helped with my confidence talking about colour and given me so many new ideas to put into practice.”

The 2019 Colour Project spent their second session of the year with Robert Eaton in Leeds.

One of the highlights of being part of any Fellowship team is getting to learn from the best and brightest names in the industry. For the 2019 Colour Project, it was none other than British Colour Technician of the Year, Robert Eaton.

The team and project leader Paul Dennison headed to Leeds for a day of colour education, hosted at the L’Oreal Academy.

Robert, whose family business Russell Eaton celebrated 40 years in 2018, is a two-time winner of British Colour Technician of the Year, as well as

countless other awards for his colour work.

For his session with the Colour Project, Robert demonstrated some of the techniques that have made him an expert, as well as sharing the salon insight that helps him turn awardwinning colour creations into salon-ready looks.

COLOUR PROJECT 2019 Georgia Bell, Twisted Scissors Poppy Devine-Smith, Zoology Kelsey Franklin, Sarai Hair & Beauty Hannah Godden, RUSH Kensington Harriet Greenwood, Bad Apple Hair Rebecca Hill, The Strand Ltd Marlene Lamont, Urban Hair & Beauty Highhouse Ciara McNamee, Andrew Smith Salons Joanne Roe, KH Hair Leicester Maarja Roots, Melissa Timperley Lea Shaw, Rural Fringe Hair Ivan Montoya, Hair Focus UK

SalonNV Magazine | 11

SH A BA SH A BA Scottish Scottish Hair Hair & & Beauty Beauty Awards Awards Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BARBERNV S A L O N BARBERNV S A L O N BARBERNV S A L O N #S HABA18 #SHABA18 # SVOTING H ISANOWBOPENA 1 8 IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Voting for the ninth annual Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards has officially opened.

All the entrants will have received their SHABA promotional packs and can start encouraging clients to show their love for the amazing work you do day-in-dayout. It’s easy to do and the voting form link is available on the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards website. What are you waiting for?

Last year saw a record breaking 100,000+ votes cast to decide the SHABA finalists. This year already looks to be hot on the tails of that record, with clients coming out in force to support their favourite stylists, nail artists, MUAs and businesses! It’s always incredible to see the support given to our industry by the people who matter the most—the clients.

Not long after voting closes, 10 June, finalists will be notified of their success.

This gives plenty of time to create wholly original photographic work for the SHABA judges to make their final decision. From the Calibre of entries this year there’s little doubt that the SHABA judges will have their work cut out for them.

Once evidence is submitted the highly esteemed SHABA judging panel will use all of the skill, attention to detail and years of experience at their disposal to decide the winners. All of this will come to a head on Sunday 8 September, with the edges of seats worn flat, where your name could be called to enter SHABA history as one of #SHABA19’s prestigious winners.

This year’s incarnation of Scotland’s premiere night for the hair and beauty industry is already shaping up to be the most glamourous yet. Tickets and voting links are all available on the Scottish Hair & Beauty website, so make sure to use the voting link to its fullest. You don’t want to miss out on what is sure to be the best night in hair and beauty calendar.

Josie Smith will once again be co-hosting SHABA alongside a special guest TBC. And keep an eye out for The Corinthian afterparty, entertainment and special guest announcements coming soon!

For more information and to vote please visit scottishhairandbeautyawards.com

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SH A BA Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BARBERNV

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VOTING NOW OPEN With over 30 titles to be won across a range of hair, beauty, aesthetics, barbering, make-up artistry, and business categories you’re sure to find your chance to shine.

8TH SEPTEMBER 2019 | HILTON GRAND BALLROOM, GLASGOW

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SERVITUDE Amy Gaudie

Hair: Amy Gaudie Photography: Paul Christey Makeup: Annabelle Hogg Stylists: Amy Gaudie, Phoebe Shillington Salon: Urban Chic, Queensland

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REMI CACHET’S

IMAGE OF THE YEAR Earlier this year Remi Cachet held their annual social media competition to find their Image of the Year. Stylists were invited to look through their photo streams and select one image to best represent their work. The entrants were then whittled down to the 10 best by the brand’s founder, Victoria Lynch, before taking to Facebook for the public vote.

The final looks were: Hair by Asya Cannur - Hair Extensionist & Hairloss Specialist in London Georgia Hollie-Stephanie Dodds of GD Hair Extensions & Hair Replacement in Amble Joei D Fox of Sniptease, USA Karen Fraser at Envy Inverness Stephen Hopper of Hairess Manes, Alnwick Steph Rose O’Connor of Hair By Stephanie Rose O’Connor in Bolton Cassandra Ramage of Ramagé Hair Extensions of Southend on Sea Helen Richardson The Butterfly Effect By Helen Richardson from Louth Alex Stanford Hair Extensions of Sunderland Hollie Williams of Hollie Williams Hair Extension Specialist on Wirral

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Over 2,000 votes were cast to crown Alex Stanford as the Remi Cachet Image of the Year 2018 winner.

She said: “This is the first year I have entered the Remi Cachet Image of the Year competition, having only voted in the previous years and I was in awe of all the amazing work. As it’s the first year of having my own business, I knew one of my goals for 2019 was to enter and hopefully make the final. I was so, so happy with the end look, and having previously posted it with some really great feedback about the colour and the style, I knew this had to be the image to enter.

“

“Now in our third year running this competition, our stylists know they need to submit a flawless and breath-taking image to stand out. Our finalist’s images are all stunning and it was lovely to see the creativity using our hair extensions.”

”

— Victoria Lynch, founder Remi Cachet

“To make it to the final was so overwhelming! I couldn’t believe my work was next to some of the biggest names in the hair extension industry, people who I respect and admire and I had made it to the final with them!

“I am so thankful to every single person who took time out of their day and voted for my image. I never thought in a million years that I would win this competition when I entered, even making the final felt amazing, so to win and to have the recognition for my work is one of the highlights of my career. I will well and truly be celebrating with lots of Prosecco with my friends and family!”

GET THE LOOK Alex talks us through how to recreate her winning look.

1. The client had over processed hair from colour changes, sun damage and previously poorly applied extensions. Alex had used Olaplex treatments and improved aftercare to improve her hair’s health.

2. To avoid pre-lightening, extensions are used for colour.

Wanting a combination of darker roots and an ashy balayage look without using a lot of bleach, a base four was used on her roots with some very fine highlights backcombed around the base of her hair, just enough lift to tone them with a base of a six.

3. Opting for a total of 300 grammes of hair in 20” for uber volume, achieved by combing a Super weft in shade 4/18 to match the low lights and one Standard Full Weft in shade nine.

4. Sewing the wefts in, they flow down to give a balayage effect.

5. For the cut; keeping most of the length and shaping the hair around her face to blend in with her shorter hair. Layering was added to keep the hair bouncy and full when blow dried or curled.

6. Finish off the look by curling with the Pro Diva curling wand, pinning the curls in as you go and brushing out once cooled and set to give the ‘Hollywood’ wave effect— straighteners smooth out any kinks for that flawless result.

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Wella colour trend report

HAZE GLAZING

While we’ve seen yellow as a tone rise by 50% year on year, it’s possible we’ve reached peak platinum. Wella trend forecaster, Zoë Irwin predicts ‘Haze Glazing’ will be the summer’s hottest colour trend.

“Not only is this colour palette big for hair colourists, it’s big in interiors, homeware and glassware, so I wanted to create a whole palette around it.”

Zoë Irwin

W H AT I S ‘HAZE G LAZIN G’?

‘Haze Glazing’ injects warmth into the hair and brings out a client’s natural skin tone and eye colour—making them pop! Or as Zoë describes, “it’s an overall concept to add warm, sunlit, illuminated effect to the hair.” Zoë based the palette on the magical light of the evening, where everything bathes in a warm haze.

I N S PI R ATIO N The palette takes influence from Neil Krug’s Pulp Art Book which pays homage to grainy, sun-scorched polaroid fashion photography of the 1970s.

Zoë was heavily inspired by how the light shone on the hair in those images— predominately captured outside—and she created a fresh colouring technique using this influence.

T EC H N I QUE Colouring hair to look as natural as possible ‘Haze Glazing’ seamlessly blends multiple tones into one another.

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Zoë says, “a girl’s root may be five or six shades darker than her ends, but because of the blending it becomes completely natural.”

The technique used is ‘Palm Painting’ which comes from a French method of performing a balayage. Simply put colour on the back of the hand, pick up delicate pieces of colour and paint it on.

Then using your fingers blend it all so the ends get the right level of lightening.

THREE S TEP PRO C ES S Step One Create an all over colour—this can use one or two hues.

Step Two Lighten the hair using the ‘Palm Painting’ technique.

Step Three Apply glazes to give the hair warm illumination.

Tanisha Created using Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+, Blondor & Wellaplex “This is Sunworn Terracotta and she’s the most vibrant of the three girls so I think of this as more of a spice palette. I wanted to show terracotta in two different forms—the global colour is Terracotta, but the other colour I glazed over is far more sunworn.

I recently travelled to Seville and you have this palette that is mustard and terracotta, but because the temperatures in Spain are insane, the terracotta washes out and is muted because of the sunlight. I became obsessed with creating a haze for this look that replicates that because it’s perfect for the 70s palette.”

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Katey Created using Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ “For me this is the brunette I want to see for the season.

Because I know all the tones coming out are mustards and warmer browns, I realised brunettes need to change. Because we’ve been coming from a place where brunettes have been cooler and we’ve been making them very ash, smoky and darker (last season we had smoked wood), this season I knew it had to be warmer to suit the palette of colours people would be wearing.

“This is the deepest colour in the palette—I put a global colour of Bitter Clove and then there are four hues running through it, including Sienna Dusk and Velvet Ochre—I’ve smudged one tone into another, and then used Balayage to create lighter pieces throughout the hair. Because it’s blended it’s seamless colour—there is nothing chunky about this.”

The Shades: Maple Mustard Sienna Dusk Sunworn Terracotta Bitter Clove The Glazes: Maple Haze Ochre Haze Sienna Haze Terracotta Haze

Florence Created using Wella Professionals Ilumina Color, and Wella Professionals Magma “Flo’s a naturally dark blonde, and has a mixture of Sienna Dusk, Velvet Ochre and then Maple Mustard at the ends. I wanted to create lightness in the hair, so I used a blend of Sienna Dusk, and Velvet Ochre, which gives an illumination and sunny haze to it. I dropped the colour in at her chin, giving her a darker root because it really makes her eyes pop and suits her complexion.

This comes from the same place that I created Amber Slate last season—it’s a warm tone with a cool undertone, which is the modern way to colour hair. The thing I love about this look is that I’ve done it without using bleach—I used this wonder product from Wella Professionals called Magma that both lifts and tones at the same time, I’m obsessed by it.”

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Yes Collection Jose Urrutia

Hair: Jose Urrutia Makeup: Anabel Larrauri Photographer: Jose Urrutia Stylism: Karmen RamĂ­rez Retoucher: Javier Villalabeitia

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BOHÈM Collection Label Coiffure Art direction: Pascal LATIL Photography: Pascal LATIL Hair: Team Label Coiffure Makeup: Stéphanie Joffroy Stylism: Véronique Suchet Communication and artistic conception: ELP Hair Production

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Christine Margossian SS19 HAIR TRENDS The Spring/Summer 2019 season promises to showcase natural texture without the apparent effort—displaying a touch of sophistication. These will be chic, sober looks that put the hairstyle in the spotlight.

In terms of length, various shows have demonstrated that the square will be the star this summer. Giving styles that all-important sophistocated touch, inspired by actress Carole Bouquet. Styled with a centre parting, the hair will be worn smooth or wet, wavy and unstructured.

The second big trend is the exact opposite and a tribute to Zoe Kravitz, the muse for the YSL scent, Black Opium. In respect to colour, Christine Margossian puts the brown as one of the hottest for this season.

S H IN Y BOB The bob has remained a firm favourite style for over 100 years and has gone through a lot of reinterpretations since its inception.

Christine's interpretation has a squared-off neck with a striking middle parting. The styling is totally smooth, allowing the hair's shine to be centre stage.

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W I LD H A I R ST Y LE Christine went with an artificially messy interpretation for this look with the movement being pushed to the side. The wild look is achieved after waving the length, with the hair teased by hand to achieve volume.

S MOOT H WAVE The wavy texture of the hair makes this chic style perfect for a hot summer's night. The result is a light look with plenty of natural texture and volume.

MY HEADBAND Simply brush wavy hair to change the style. The headband, the accessory being a huge part of the look, with hair weaving over the top creates great dimension. The headband also gives this style an instant retro vibe.

'Brunette', collection signed by Christine Margossian Meilleur Ouvrier de France, LYON. Hair: Christine Margossian, Photographer: Bruno Estatoff, Makeup: ValĂŠrie Dumond, Stylism: Sarah Diallo

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M E S S Y BUN The messy bun is the hairstyle you will love creating in the morning. This hairy-tousled bun is always trendy and takes very little time to sculpt.

This fashionable style is one you're sure to see in fields around Europe this summer.

B O Y I SH Boyish is an androgynous look that features a light fringe with very short, degraded and unstructure hair styling. Taking the hair off the neck lets the style perfectly frame the face.

BOL D BL UE H AIRS TY L E Inspired by the cobalt blue peacock and a touch of madness, this style features a gorgeous, vibrant deep blue colour. Three knots of hair adorn the top of the head to evoke the image of India’s national bird.

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ON TREND:

SHORT HAIR Big hair shakeups always signal big life changes, you’re stripping away old worries, you’re becoming a whole new woman. While lovers of longer tresses can talk all day of its versatility, suitability and fashion credentials, short hair has been gaining momentum. Models have cut their hair for runways and its praises have been sung by celebrities such as Jennifer Lawrence, Victoria Beckham and Kate Hudson.

TONI&GUY international artistic director, Cos Sakkas believes short hair gives the wearer a greater sense of freedom and individuality. “Women are no longer willing to be cloned; everyone wants their own individual style.

“Your hair is the most important fashion accessory you own but can’t be changed quite so easily as a pair of shoes or a handbag.

However, modern hairdressing tools and products, combined with the advice from a professional stylist, means it can be worn in different ways and with different textures.”

What is causing the current resurgence in short hair? One factor is the versatility of the style; from bobs to pixie cuts, micro fringes to bangs, with no need for uniformity.

Are you and your stylists ready to offer cuts to those who have adorned long hair for so many years? Cos continued: “If someone wants to go shorter there are certain things you should consider during the consultation. Firstly, who’s idea is it to go short—the stylist, or has the client brought in a picture? If you are recommending a client cuts her damaged lengths off or suggesting a change in style put together a style plan over the period of a year so it isn’t a shock from long to short. Take the client on a journey so they enjoy the experience and build their confidence and comfort with you.

“If it is the client wanting to go short, the basics of suitability should be the first thing you assess. Face shape, hair texture, their lifestyle and the ability to maintain the look at home.

Recommend colour placements and product choice to highlight the focal points of the haircut.

“When it comes to a short haircut your professional opinion of style and suitability is worth more than the technical cut itself.

Only you can say whether it will suit their face and lifestyle or whether something a little longer would be best.”

COS’ TOP TIPS Update your knowledge.

Know your foundation cutting techniques or attend a refresher course if needs be.

Suitability is key.

Understand face shapes and what works with different bone structures. How short should you go? Will their short hair work

Photography by Jack Eames with a fringe or the natural texture of their hair?

Recommend products.

Understand how different products can work on shorter styles and offer advice on finishing the hair effortlessly.

Individual style.

Don’t cut hair short to fit into a trend. Short hair is all about individuality but if it doesn’t suit the wearer, advise something that does.

Understand growth patterns.

Make sure your haircut will transform as it grows out. Clients won’t necessarily return every six to eight weeks and they want to look good during that time. You want them to come back because they want to go shorter, not because it’s grown out looking a mess!

Find out more about Cos Sakkas: Instagram: @cossakkas Online: toniandguy.com

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ADVANCED PRO SALON ® Healthy, well-nourished hair is essential if you want to achieve exceptional shades, with enviously deep, colour-rich, multi-tonal shades and significantly longer lasting intensity. Applying colour to dry, damaged hair leads to lacklustre shades.

ColourCodeTM, from Advanced Pro Salon® is here to make faded shades and multiple restoration treatments a problem of the past.

A

dvanced Pro Salon®, a brand established by UK mega-distributions Advanced Retail Solutions, is a company with 40+ years experience in the hair and beauty industry. SalonNV spoke with Advanced Pro Salon® director Rob Collier about why ColourCodeTM is disrupting the way we look at Plex and colour.

ColourCodeTM makes faded shades and multiple restoration treatments a problem of the past. With the focus of the colour house being on delivering long-lasting, colour-rich depth with up to 100% grey coverage.

Infused with Advanced Pro Salon’s® exclusive ProPlex Technology®, scientifically developed to repair hair from within, while anti-breakage and strengthening properties leave hair silky smooth. Because the ProPlex Technology® is mixed into the formulation, no additional treatments are needed for customers to have healthy and beautiful hair.

This not only saves the customer money, but also allows stylists to make more money—time equals money as they say—the range even costs 20-30% less than other leading brands.

Even when Advanced Retail Solutions was set up in 2011 there was always the aim to produce their own ranges.

Having 40+ years experience working with leading brands through their taste-making Manchester salons, Rob and the team came to understand where other existing Plex ranges fell short of consumer and professional needs.

“Driven by finest quality formulations, ingredient blends and decades of high-level salon experience, Advanced Pro Salon® professional ranges are focused on delivering

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Rob Collier exceptional hair results that stylists, colourists and clients love; products your hair would choose.

“Our ProPlex Technology® actually protects and repairs the hair [...] When you look at the other leading brands the liquid forms of Plex, they actually dilute the bleach.

You’re adding ingredients that aren’t supposed to be there so the measurements aren’t 100% right—you’re adding a foreign body to the product.”

Advanced Pro Salon looked carefully at the formulation to eliminate damaging factors during the colouring process by adding Argan Oil, vitamins C, E and B5. These ingredients give ColourCodeTM maximum results with no negative or adverse effects from the process.

ColourCodeTM and its ProPlex Technology® is undoubtedly shaking the professional colour world to its core. And with the means to develop, innovate and distribute in-house, Advanced Pro Salon® have a more advantageous infastructure than other new colour ranges.

“We can go from an idea, to a product sitting on a shelf within our own business. We don’t have to go

The ColourCodeTM range features 117 professional shades across seven colour categories: Special Blondes • Pure Naturals • Rich Naturals Deep Browns • Vibrant Reds Pastels • Special Mix

anywhere but to the geniuses we have working in our camp.

“When we developed ColourCodeTM it was always with the view to have the leading formulation that is accessible to all salons in the UK and aboard. We will be launching in the states later this year, we’re going to Australia and we’ve already signed a ten-year distribution deal with the Republic of Ireland […] so it’s progressing quickly.”

Advanced Retail Solutions, established in 2011, boasts a 32,000sqft warehouse has set Advanced Pro Salon® up to handle the demand. They have full in-house distribution, marketing, development and pharmaceutical teams—everything they could possibly need to create and distribute such a hotly tipped product.

Advanced Pro Salon® is currently the only colour house produced in the UK. Giving us a little positivity in such an economically uncertain time, Rob has a clear air of positivity about the growth of the brand and becoming industry leaders. Not only have Advanced Pro Salon® launched their colour house, but they’re soon to launch a full recruitment drive. Showing the world that the hair and beauty industry, no matter the economic disaster is ultimately safe.

With a keen eye not only for the needs of expert stylists but their also their clients; ColourCodeTM and their revolutionary ProPlex Technology® look set to become the benchmark for all other colour houses to follow.

For more information about Advanced Pro Salon®, see www.advancedprosalon.co.uk

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Dr Sharon Wong

FEMALE HAIR LOSS Hair and beauty professionals know that a key part of a woman’s identity is her hair and hair thinning or loss could be crushing to their self-confidence. In fact, female hair loss is spoken about far less than other self-esteem issues. SalonNV spoke to skin and hair care expert Dr. Sharon Wong, about some of the main causes of female hair loss.

“Hair is intrinsically linked to beauty, femininity and your sense of identity. Women feel like their femininity has been stripped from them and that seems to carry a lot of shame with it. They don’t talk about hair loss very much.”

But what do you look out for? Even before you can see your scalp or any of the more dramatic signs of hair loss or thinning.

“The very early stages you can just get shedding,” reveals Dr Wong. “It will be coming out more dramatically in the shower, on the comb, in the bed and that can happen even before seeing the scalp. Another early sign of this is if you’re feeling the cold wind on your scalp more or notice sunburn on the crown.”

Genetics is by far the most common cause of female hair loss, however, there can be a laundry list of other factors that can build up. Dr Sharon Wong walked SalonNV through some of the main causes for female hair loss.

HORMONES Sudden hormonal fluctuations in a woman’s life can have a big impact on hair thinning or loss. Dr Wong highlighted three major hormonal shifts that contribute to female hair loss.

One common shift comes with stopping, starting or switching or being on the wrong contraceptive pill. This is particularly common in progesterone pills, which contain no estrogen.

Estrogen protects hair whereas synthetic progesterone acts like testosterone contributing to hair loss or thinning.

Another big hormonal shift is the menopause. “We see a lot of women around the time of menopause,” says Dr Wong.

“Their hair becomes noticeably thin but also the texture is different because during the menopause you get a marked reduction in estrogen which causes hair and skin dryness.

In menopause there is also a relative increase in androgens (male hormones) which further contributes to hair thinning and shedding.”

POSTPARTUM During pregnancy, a lot of women notice their hair grows very long and thick as estrogen surges in their systems. These high levels of estrogen keep the hair in anagen [the growing phase], but once those hormones settle down and re-synchronise, hair artificially kept in anagen will begin to cycle and shed for several months after giving birth.

STRESS Over 80% of women believe their hair loss is caused to emotional stress or trauma, even ahead of women who cite hair loss due to hormonal shifts.

“Stress is not a female specific symptom,” says Dr Wong.

“Stress related hair loss is something we see quite a bit. There’s usually quite a dramatic event that happens or a prolonged stressful period in a woman’s work or personal life and several months after that hair loss might start.”

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Dr Sharon Wong These long-term stress catalysts could be anything from money worries to career concerns to relationship issues—all potentially leading to hair loss.

DIET Diet is so important for hair growth and the energy your body demands for healthy growth is high. With that said your body doesn’t deem hair as vital, therefore when on calorie or nutritionally deficient diets the body will shift energy to areas such as the organs and bone marrow.

“Particularly with so many diets that are on trend like veganism, carb-free, paleo and when you lose a lot of weight in a short period of time you lose a lot of energy that your hair follicles need to renew themselves,” says Dr Wong. “[…] because your hair is not an essential organ, your body doesn’t prioritise the nutritional energy to your hair follicles. So quite often you’ll see hair shedding because of dietary deficiencies and weight loss.”

With so many factors contributing to hair loss or thinning it’s important to look out for these early signs in clients, recommending flattering styles to give the lustre back to their locks. After all these signs don’t have to mean your clients can’t still have the glamour they deserve, after all a trip to your salon could be all the confidence they need.

TEAR-SHEETS Antonio Palladino Hair: Antonio Palladino Photographer: Desmond Murray Makeup: Jo Sugar Stylist: Sue Fyfe-Williams Images: FPA Media

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TEAR-SHEETS Antonio Palladino Hair: Antonio Palladino Photographer: Desmond Murray Makeup: Jo Sugar Stylist: Sue Fyfe-Williams Images: FPA Media

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TEAR-SHEETS Antonio Palladino Hair: Antonio Palladino Photographer: Desmond Murray Makeup: Jo Sugar Stylist: Sue Fyfe-Williams Images: FPA Media

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THE ANTIDOTE STREET SALON MANIFESTO In the UK and Europe 10million women identify as having afro or multi-textured hair.

In the UK alone searches for afro-specific hair salons have increased by 90% with this experience being key to the growth of black businesses as well as a sense of value for the community. This is where Winnie Awa’s Antidote Street Salon Manifesto steps foot centre stage to revolutionise the industry. The Antidote Street Salon Manifesto looks to ensure this valued and growing consumer base is met with the best possible experience. care day and they want to have the best experience. If customers have concerns it would be great to come together and make these things better. So, when they come to one of our salons they are getting these services as a benchmark.”

Winnie has embarked on her own hair journey since transitioning from relaxed

The call for expertise and education in afro and texture hair is always in hot demand. However, Winnie, the founder of digital marketplace antidotestreet. com found repeated complaints from consumers concerning poor timekeeping,

we can continue to improve their experiences,” Winnie tells SalonNV. “We know there are individual salons who are doing great work but I wondered, what could we do to collaboratively elevate the experience? Our role at Antidote Street is that of a facilitator—to bring together salons to have these conversations.”

This Spring, Winnie gathered together some of the UK’s top afro hair salons such as Afrotherapy, Moiso London and Peckham Palms for a symposium chaired by freelance textured hair specialist, Subrina Kidd to launch the Antidote Street Salon Manifesto.

The purpose of the manifesto is to create a gold standard for salons and hold them accountable for the areas where consumers believe they’re lacking. Winnie tells SalonNV that the manifesto seeks to place a greater focus

pricing discrepancies and a lack of product knowledge or care. The Antidote Street Salon Manifesto is a direct response to the demand for education, product knowledge, and the industry pitfalls.

“We hold regular customer research sessions where we try to learn how

on the craft and artistry of hairdressing to deliver the best possible in-salon experiences and through this, foster a community.

Winnie says, “Creating these communities is a positive thing. When people take time out of their busy schedule to go to the salon it’s their self-

hair to her natural texture but quickly frustrated by the faff of searching for suitable products. When she realised her story wasn’t unique and a challenge for many women with afro and curly textured hair; she launched antidotestreet.com to give women easy access to the best hair education, utilising her ample experience

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leading teams from Net-a-porter, ASOS and LVMH. Training and education was a hot topic among those salons at the symposium.

The main concern among those who attended was that the pipeline for talent is starting to run dry and with a need for more hairdressing colleges to offer education on afro hair. The group is already planning another session to discuss education and the state of training further, but most importantly, what can they do to foster a strong pool of professionals.

There are big plans for the future of the Antidote Street Salon Manifesto. Winnie would love for the manifesto to be taken on at an industry level—setting a gold standard for stylists and clients.

“I would love for it to be a household name and become something people look to as a starting point in their search for salons,” Winnie adds. “I want people to get a beautiful experience, top quality education, to know their time is respected and have fun with their stylist. For stylists to not just have a salon but to help the wider community and their client base.”

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SMART SALONS

are changing the industry Three years after Ted Gibson and Jason Backe vowed to never open another salon, they’re making headlines again. This time for making the world’s first salon that merges cutting edge technology with 30+ years industry experience: STARRING by Ted Gibson.

T

his Los Angeles based new era smart salon is flipping the traditional model on its head, completely changing the future of the industry along the way. After swearing off opening another salon, they knew they had to do something completely different which led the pair to contact Amazon. This is what led to the first smart salon powered by Amazon and Alexa allowing clients a completely immersive experience unlike anything else in the market. The salon offers clients the ability to see their hair in 11 different lightings; everyday sunshine, moonlight, indoors etc allowing clients to see their hair in a variety of settings.

Keeping with the modern theme of the salon, the business is entirely cashless

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allowing customers to shop the window displays through SmileCodes using the Amazon app. Customers can simply scan SmileCodes through the app on their mobile device and all purchased items get delivered to their doorstep. Passersby can also use this system to purchase products they like the look of without even needing to step foot in the door.

STARRING by Ted Gibson isn’t just the beginning of this, Coty unveiled the new Wella Professionals Smart Mirror powered by CareOS operating system. The mirror is designed to revolutionise the entire hair colouring experience.

The mirrors technology enhances the colouring experience from consultation to aftercare with live AR hair colour try on, facial recognition enables retrieval of past looks and 360° video capture to get

the hair at every angle.

The smart mirror, co-created with Wella Professionals hair stylists and salon owners, is based on research to identify the biggest areas for opportunity and innovation within the salon experience.

The survey featured nearly 1,700 stylists and clients which revealed they want more personalised consultations within salons and better connection outwith the salon. This technology can run on any connected device including, mobile phones and tablets making it flexible and portable to all salons.

Laura Simpson, Coty Professional Beauty Chief Marketing Officer, said: “We are incredibly excited about this breakthrough innovation, allowing hair professionals, the original image and change makers in beauty, to take their consultation with their clients to the next level. With the new Wella Professionals Smart Mirror, clients can have an even more customized session with their stylist, visualize their desired colour before application, as well as maintain the relationship and service after the salon visit. Co-developed with stylists, with this new tool we are enabling them to build stronger consultations and relationships with their clients, which is critical in our industry.�

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Salon of the month

BA D A PPLE H A IR They say the apple never falls far from the tree, but Bad Apple Hair is branching out to open its eighth salon, the latest in Stratford-UponAvon. An independent chain of salons propelled by style and ontrend aesthetics, now has its eight shops to boast, and is every bit as unique and eye-catching as the others. The Stratford-upon-Avon shop, which opened in March, has had an £80,000 refurb that’s crafted a hyper-cool environment for its fashion-forward clientele.

The salon aesthetic is ‘tough luxe’ where industrial meets art deco to create a vibrantly modern and stylish environment. Each Bad Apple salon has its own distinct and recognisable style, and this space is both luxe, and functional.

Its interior aesthetic is reminiscent of a photography studio; where the bespoke lighting is an integral part of the salon’s aesthetic. An eclectic mix of zigzag tube lights, industrial brass lamps and modern spotlights set out the blueprint for the shop. The styling stations of the shop have sterile light and clean, a linear form is cut through with bold tropical wallpaper and a plush modern-deco waiting area. The stretch of mirrors creates an expansive space, with private backwash rooms, contained within a Japanese-style sliding screen and fitted with the group’s logo in neon lights.

Bad Apple Hair recognises the importance of involving clients in the whole salon experience, and the design orbits around this concept. The salon also has a self-serve bar, inspired by ‘honesty bars’ found in some of the world’s top hotels. Clients can relax and help themselves to a drink from the minibar or a hot brew. The open planned styling stations and the product display in the waiting area invites customers to interact with different features of the space.

The Bad Apple group puts aesthetic and style at the forefront of their brand, so much so that it’s turned the head of Topshop. With one store in Topshop

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Bullring, Birmingham, there are three more Topshop-Topman stores in the pipeline: for Manchester, Liverpool and Lakeside, fitting for a brand that’s ahead of the curve.

It’s an award-winning independent brand and finalist at the British Hairdressing Awards 2018 for Midlands Best Hairdresser of the Year 2018 and for Business Director of the Year 2018. The Bad Apple Hair brand has a 70 strong workforce and a dedicated art team, including an in-house photographer to ensure online content is diverse and in-line with the brand vision.

Having a reputation for being ahead of the curve when it comes to the latest trends, Bad Apple Hair releases annual style collections showcasing their stylists’ abilities. The first, Born 2016, is to symbolise the first four years of life. The concept of each yearly collection is to characterise the life cycle of Bad Apple Hair and see how it grows over the next ten years. With the rate of expansion, it will be interesting to see where this Midlands chalk horse stands in the next five years, never mind ten.

WORDS BY CAITLIN FYFFE

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REMIX Collection

Bad Apple Hair Art Team Hair: Bad Apple Hair Art Team – James Earnshaw, Aid Tams + Steph Peckmore Photography: Alex Barron-Hough Products: TIGI Professional Models: Ana Schurmann, Lizzie Mawson, Gift Nyakuta, Wei Lin Makeup: Katie Moore Styling: Clare Frith

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P R O D U C T ENVY

EDITOR’S CHOICE

EDITOR’S COMMENT With a focus on festival and holiday preparation we decided to showcase some of the very best products on the market to get you ready for your time in the sun. Get your Glo up from Radiant Glo’s revolutionary 2-hour formula or protect your skin with Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Sun Protect Tavel Kit. No matter your need, we’ve got you covered.

Radiant Glo 2 Hour Formula Spray Tan Radiant Glo 2 Hour Rapid Tan is a premium spray tan solution for professional spray tanning therapists. Radiant Glo products are made with natural and organic ingredients including organic Moroccan Argan oil and organic aloe vera, without the use of harmful chemicals. The 2 hour Rapid Tan can be left on for up to six hours when a deeper colour is desired.

Wella Professional Nutricurls Mask Nutricurls by Wella Professionals is a complete line of care and styling products designed exclusively for curly hair. The mask reduces frizz while deeply nourishing and moistuising the hair. The curlier the hair, the higher the required level of nutrients. With vitamin E, minerals and proteins, the hair is cared for and frizz is prevented.

£29.99 (1Litre) radiantglo.co.uk

RRP £17 wella.com

BB Lifestyle Revitaliser

Schwarzkopf Professional BC Sun Protect Range BC Sun Protect range protects hair from UV ray damage, discoloration, cleans sea salt and chemical impurities and treats sun-stressed hair. The kit consists of BC Sun Protect Prep & Protection Spritz, BC Sun Protect Hair and Body Bath and BC Sun Protect 2-in-1 Treatment. This range is available as a travel size kit.

With BB Lifestyle’s proprietary HC56Complex™; the next generation of organic CBD hemp oil, this moisturiser is perfect for daily wear to help enhance your skin’s smoothness, softness, and healthy glow. Feels like a moisturiser.

Renews like an anti-ageing serum.

Cannabidiol, moisturising botanicals and antioxidant vitamins balance, hydrate and support skin renewal to help minimise the look of fine lines and wrinkles. Organic CBD and vitamin-enriched, this light-weight SPF moisturiser is amazing. £90

£18 schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

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bblifestyleuk.com

P R O D U C T ENVY

#Organics CBD Hemp Oil Tincture #Organics, stay away from all things stereotypical “Cannabis”, and with the slogan “Grown in Nature, Defined by Science”, the company leading this new CBD market that is driven purely by creating the “Feel Good Factor”. The hemp oil processed in these products is obtained by means of sustainable European cultivation, free from genetic engineering cultivation.

No pesticides, insecticides or herbicides are used. £39.95

ghd Platinum Styler The Platinum+ Styler recognises the thickness of your hair and the speed which you’re styling at so this tool can deliver results faster than before. With an optimum styling temperature of 185°C, you can look forward to 70% stronger hair, 20% more shine, and 2x more colour integrity, whatever your hair type.

hashtagorganics.co.uk Use product code SNV1 for 10% off your order.

£175 ghdhair.com

Skull & Bone Sea Salt Spray Skull & Bone brand create natural male grooming products with ingredients sourced from land and sea. The Skull & Bone Sea Salt Spray is a uniquely formulated spray designed for roughing, uplifting, volumizing and styling hair. Use spray by applying onto damp hair to leave to dry for a natural beach wave look or blow dry for more volume and naturally looking styling. £10.99 skullandboneuk.com

Silkup Luna Silk Hair Wrap The Luna Silk Hair Wrap in small has been designed to fit short to shoulder-length hair. Made from 100% silk, the Hair Wrap protects hair from pillowcase damage and prevents frizz while looking after your precious locks all night long. £60 silkup.com

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P R O D U C T ENVY

HAIR

Milkshake Sweet Camomile Shampoo Sweet Camomile Shampoo cleanses and brightens highlights and improves shine in blonde hair. Organic camomile extract is known for its brightening properties and organic honey known for nutritional benefits—this paraben free shampoo while leave your hair incredibly soft and silky. £14.09 (300ml) milkshake.co.uk

Unite Expanda Dust Expanda Dust is designed to give volume and lift hair from the roots—sprinkling Expanda Dust onto your roots and massage into your scalp for instant hair volume. The weightless, translucent dust disappears into the hair whilst still adding great texture. £26.50 unitehair.com

Hot Muk Treatment Range Hot Muk Treatments are the latest range of award-winning products from Australia’s leading haircare brand, Muk Haircare. The new PETA approved products are designed to prevent hair damage and dehydrated. Hot Muk Thermal Protector is a thermal spray designed to protect hair against heated appliances. Hot Muk Smoothing Serum helps eliminate static and flyaway hair and gives extra shine. £11.75 each mukhairuk.com

Malibu C Wellness Hair Remedy Sachets With seven different types of hair remedy sachets, each dedicated to target different kinds of hair. The range of sachets are: Colour Prepare, Crystal Gel, Swimmers, Malibu Blondes, Hard Water, Quick Fix, CPR, DDL. The product is designed to immediately improve the look and feel of hair, whilst targeting the specific issue. There is no added preservatives, parabens, gluten, fragrance, sodium chloride as well as being 100% vegan. £3.70 each malibuc.com

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P R O D U C T ENVY

System Professional Inessence The Inessence line by System Professional designed to recharge, rejuvenate, moisturise and improve hairs manageability. Created with Acai Stem Cells Extract, the Hair Rejuvenating cream with 91% natural origin.

The conditioner works to reduce frizz and internal hair fiber friction instantly thanks to the Inessence conditioner, for manageable, smooth and shiny hair that is easier to comb.

Design.me Travel The World Kit This kit comes from the bestselling Canadian haircare and styling brand available for professionals to retail. The kit is filled with travel sized products under 100ml of the bestselling PowerDry.ME, Fab.ME, and the world’s first, award winning volumizing spray pump—Puff.ME or Puff.ME Light. This is strictly vegan, cruelty free, sulphate free and gluten free.

£21.30 systemprofessional.com

£14.99 + VAT salon-services.com

Zen Hair Aftercare products

Pulp Riot Semi-Permanent OG Collection

Aftercare is key to maintaining hair extensions which is why Zen launched their own Aftercare salon range to help pro-long the life of extensions.

Zen Hair Shampoo is formulated with Kakadu Plum Extract to hydrate and detrangle. Zen Hair Conditioner features moisturising ingredients including Macadamia Oil, Kakadu Plum Extract and Wheatgerm Oil to hydrate.

Zen Hair Serum includes Macadamia Oil, Kakadu Plum Extract and Wheatgerm Oil to hydrate, nourish and promote shine.

Pulp Riot’s Semi Permanent OG colour line developed for colourists and stylists stands out to its nourishing, creamy consistency.

The line comes in 16 semi-permanent shades, vibrant colours lasting between 25-42 washes with easy application and nourishing ingredients. The products are cruelty-free, vegan and free from silicones.

£11 each

£11.99

zenhair.com

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FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

P R O D U C T ENVY

P R O D U C T ENVY NovaLash The Light NovaLash has created a light to help lash artists provide higher quality services. The light has two elongated LED panels perfect for lash clients, applying makeup or illuminating clients and yourself for photos. This light has 192 LED lights to create a large, shadow free illumination which allows lash artists to enhance the look and density of lash sets. £200 + VAT novalash.com

Loella Brush Ranges Takara Belmont DAINTY Takara Belmont’s functional and versatile Dainty chair is perfectly suited for the rigours of a busy barbershop. With 360º lockable rotation and a reclining backrest, ease your client into the most comforting position for their service with the reassurance of strength and reliability for many years to come. takarahairdressing.co.uk

London based Loella Cosmetics launches vegan and cruelty free brushes with ranges ‘Girl on Fire’ and ‘Wild as the Ocean’. Loella brushes have been seen on the X-Factor, on the sets of ITV, Sky Studios, Showtime and Food Network. Single brushes are priced at £3.99, to an essentials brush set for £49.99. loellacosmetics.com

Paper Not Foil Paper Not Foil is the eco-friendly alternative to foil for hair colouring the hairdressing industry has been waiting for. The first environmentally friendly alternative which degrades without any toxic waste and made using 96% less energy than foil. The paper is made from industrial waste which is recycled into paper, producing no toxic waste in the process. The product works in the exact same way as typical foil, but can be washed, dried and reused two to three times.

From £36 papernotfoil.co.uk

Nilo Omnia Treatment Bed The Nilo Omnia treatment bed is a luxury massive bed. It’s a threemotor couch with metallic structure covered with white or oak wood.

Other features include: extra-long armrests and finger rests that are adjustable with gas pump, height, backrest, legs are electrically adjustable and a mattress in PU: soft touch, fireproof and oil resistant. nilo-beauty.com

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Charlotte Tilbury Magic Foundation The Magic Foundation from Charlotte Tilbury is brimming with love and incredible ingredients, cloaking the skin in a featherweight, semi-matte veil. This hyper-intelligent formula boosts collagen to reduce the appearance of age spots & acne. With over 88% of women agreeing that it matched their skin tone, lasts all day and is comfortable.

P R O D U C T ENVY

P R O D U C T ENVY

SKIN & MAKEUP

Delfy London Blusher Palette Delfy London has launched a brand new Blusher Palette. This new exquisite palette features five difference shades to beautiful lift and accentuate your cheek bones. Choose form four silky shades and one creamy highlighter for seamless application and a flawless finish. £8.90 delfycosmetics.com

£32 charlottetilbury.com

Utan Skin Idol Get the complete Jamie Genevieve collection to customise into ur makeup and skin-care routine. 1 x C.B.D. infused tanning water mist with C.B.D. extract grown in Colorado is a world’s first. Paired with 1 x its BFF Skin Idol, a long-lasting HD instant bronzer for your face and body, loaded with an ultra-luxe liquid highlighter. u glow girl! £39.90 utan.co.uk

Inglot Cosmetics Makeup Brush 25SS Inglot Cosmetics is a leading make-up brand and their brush collection is no exception. The 25SS is made from squirrel hair substitute and is best used for applying pressed powder, loose powder, bronzing powder, blusher or foundation. £32 inglotcosmetics.com

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ZOHANTUS Collection Salones Carlos Valiente Hair: Lorena Dies at Salones Carlos Valiente Photographer: Esteban Roca Makeup: Nacho Sanz

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A CUT ABOVE Scissors are the one tool no hair professional can do without. Whatever style you’re creating for your customer there’s sure to be a perfect pair for you. And as we know picking the wrong pair could lead to well-being issues down the line. Therefore, it’s important to know what’s out there and what advantages certain types of scissors can have for any hair professional. SalonNV looked at four of the leading scissor brands to see how their scissors can help give you the cutting edge.

Yoi Scissors

Twister The Twister scissor from Yoi offers a cutting-edge design at a great price. The double swivel thumb moves in all directions for complete flexibility and an ergonomic reduction in both wrist and arm strain.

These scissors are perfect for all levels, from students to professional full-time stylists who require a more finely balanced and longer-lasting scissor. This pair also features beautifully engraved handles and a raised tension screw.

The non-serrated Japanese steel blades make them perfect for many fashion and daily styles required by the modern stylist. These scissors come in a wonderful Yoi scissor quilted case which can hold your scissors and comb.

5.5” From £99 ± VAT yoiscissors.co.uk

Akito

Katana Akito scissors are crafted by hairdressers for hairdressers making them unique and a must have.

The Akito Katana is no exception to the quality created by the brand, crafted from VG10 steel and designed with ergonomically ball bearing tension system for ultra-smooth cutting performance. This helps relieve hand fatigue and reducing the risks of developing RSI. The katana is characterised by possessing fine tips and blade weight balanced ratio allowing for an all-round scissor excelling in all cutting techniques like precision cutting, point cutting, scissor over comb, slicing, chopping and slide cutting.

This scissor performs well on both long and short hair allowing it to be used as both a hairdressing scissor as well as a barbering scissor.

The ergonomically designed Off-Set Crane Handle provides exceptional comfort whilst reducing the risk of developing RSI or carpal tunnel syndrome.

100% Japanese Convex blades.

Medium-weight - 5.5” (46g) & 6” (49g) £295 akitoscissors.com

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Scissorhands UK

Lumen Soft-Cut Thinning & Blending Hairdressers Scissors The Lumen Soft-Cut Thinning & Blending Hairdressers Scissors are the definitive thinning and blending hairdressers’ scissors from Scissorhands UK. The silky-smooth design effortlessly blends short to longer hair and evaporates the bulk and thickness, leaving no blade marks whatsoever. These professional scissors should be the best thinning and blending tools in your arsenal.

Lumen Soft-Cut thinning & blending hairdressers scissors replaces the old-fashioned thinning scissor where the thinning teeth are traditionally found on the upper blade. Scissorhands UK has redesigned the classic thinning scissor with the teeth on the lower blade, allowing the hair to flow naturally over the teeth to ensure a flawless, clean finish. The models’ refined handle design delivers support and improves your overall posture while allowing for perfect weight distribution in the scissor.

Made from premium grade Japanese Molybdenum Steel with a hand finished convex blade, these 6” scissors deliver a surprisingly smooth feel and an even smoother result. £381.70 scissorhands.co.uk

Matakki

Gorudo Offset Handle Benefits Wrist pain is an unwanted complication associated with a career as a hairdresser or barber. A minor injury related to a repetitive strain issue may not only result in a reduction in your workflow but in more serious cases can lead to early retirement.

Health professionals agree that repetitive wrist, elbow and should movements are leading contributor to conditions like Carpel Tunnel Syndrome (CPS). Matakki not only have an appreciation for this due to the director’s product knowledge, gained through over 20 years of industry experience but also benefit from being the only scissor brand whose operations manager has nearly two decades experience as a qualified and registered clinician.

This combined wealth of knowledge ensures Matakki produce products designed to meet not only the customer’s technical and aesthetic requirements but also safeguards their health. Matakki scissors are ergonomically designed to prevent these things happening.

Matakki offset scissors position the thumb handle slightly shorter and although a minor difference there is a huge long-term impact. This is achieved by reducing overextension of the thumb when opening or closing the scissors, avoiding unnatural positions, thus removing strain from the wrist.

Your thumbs are not naturally designed to come into contact with your ring finger and professionals usually find it more comfortable for the thumb to work with the index finger. Other positions increase tension at the base of the hand and wrist.

The Crane offset handle in particular as seen on Matakki’s Gorudo models allows the hand to open without overextension of the thumb and is angled to promote a downward, relaxed elbow position. This is the best design to assist in reducing tension in the wrist, shoulder and elbow according to health professionals.

Matakki scissors actively promote the importance of user maintenance and care of your tools with a strong belief that if you look after your tools, your tools will look after you.

Japanese Aichi 440C steel Medium-weight – 5.5” (48g) & 6” (50g) From £295 matakki.com

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HENNA BROWS

WORDS BY SIOBHAN MACDONALD Henna ink is a natural dye derived from the hina tree and has been used in Pakistan, India, Africa and the Middle East for some 5,000 years. Henna will tint your clients’ eyebrows painlessly, without the need to apply makeup or uses pencils daily. Additionally, henna treatments can be used by clients as a non-committal test before moving onto other, more permanent eyebrow treatments such as micropigmentation.

Henna dye has been around for thousands of years, often used as a semi-permanent dye for pretty much everything from tattoos to hair and materials. However, the newest use of henna is in the beauty industry for eyebrow tinting. The natural alternative is ideal for people wanting to try something new on their eyebrows, who are sick of putting harsher tints on to colour their brows.

Trying a new product or beautician can be a daunting process, I’m sure we all have one terrible haunting experience of bad eyebrows. After the pencil thin eyebrow trend in the early 2000s, everyone is increasingly cautious about the products they put near their brows.

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Brow henna is different from pure henna as colour pigments have been added to give the henna a light to dark brown colour. If you work with pure henna, you will get a red/orange print on the skin—the best example being the traditional use of decorative henna used in many Asian and eastern countries.

Colour pigments ensure henna draws into the skin quicker, making sure you don’t have to wait hours for the dye to take as you would have too with pure henna.

One of the biggest positives of using henna is the natural appeal, not all henna dyes are 100% natural but are still considered safer than chemical brow dyes and tints.

Henna is simple and easy to use, whether you choose to get it done at a salon or in the comfort of your own home. One of the biggest differences between henna and other tinting methods is that henna doesn’t require an oxidising agent to penetrate the cortex and put colour in the hair.

Henna is best applied to clean skin, so before going for an appointment it’s advised that you scrub your eyebrows

to remove dead skin so the dye can stick better. This allows the dye to last longer— henna can typically last 4-6 weeks before eyebrow hair grows out enough to re-dye.

Henna also leaves a stain on the skin behind eyebrow hairs which normally lasts about two weeks, giving a much fuller and filled in look.

Patch tests are absolutely necessary when using henna, just as you do strand tests before hair dye to make sure there are no adverse reactions, that is also needed here. Despite the fact henna is a predominantly natural product, people can still have allergies or reactions to this so it needs to be checked before putting it near your eyes.

Aftercare needs to be considered, as with every other beauty product’s, so after henna use follow these tips: • Don’t wet your eyebrows for the first 12 hours • Use as little cleaning products as possible, be aware oil based make up removers can cause the henna to fade quicker than normal • Don’t apply too many creams • Be careful in the sun/sunbeds – the colour fades quicker, and sun can sometimes trigger an allergy!

HAVE YOU JOINED THE CLUB? With just one box from The Henna Club you could be making up to £11,500 on salon treatments!

• six unique shades • lasts six to seven weeks on brow hairs • vegan friendly, long lasting pigments

#THEHENNACLUB thehennaclub.com SalonNV Magazine | 55

ghd’s festival style STEP-BY-STEP

Festivals are the place to see the hottest hair and fashion trends around right now. The ghd Team were out in California last month for Coachella 2019, working with a host of gorgeous guests on their glam—using their brand-new Festival range of styling tools.

Here is their first Get the Look created by Patrick Wilson for Maya Jama.

STEP ONE

Create a natural looking centre parting using the end of the ghd tail comb.

STEP TWO

Prep hair using the ghd curl hold spray for hold and to add grit to the hair ahead of styling.

STEP THREE

Use the ghd platinum+ festival styler to create nice, loose bends. Run the styler down a small portion of the hair, creating a bend and stopping before unclamping the styler, bending in the opposite direction to secure the wave.

STEP FOUR

Let the waves set and cool. Spritz the ghd wide tooth comb with hairspray before running it through the hair to break up each of the waves.

STEP FIVE

Finally, spritz hair with the ghd final shine spray for a glass like finish.

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“I love the ghd platinum+ festival styler to create all my festival hair-dos but keep my locks super shiny still! It’s the ultimate tool to create my go-to dead straight sleek look with a side parting.”

—Maya Jama

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KAREN COLLECTION

Rafael Bueno Ruiz | Rafael Bueno Peluqueros Hair: Rafael Bueno @ Rafael Bueno Peluqueros Photographer: Alberto Zaldívar Stylism: Desiré Espinosa y Moisés Utrera Makeup: Lulú Pérez Models: Olga y Dariya Extensions: Elegance Hair Extensions

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Hair: Rafael Bueno @ Rafael Bueno Peluqueros Photographer: Alberto Zaldívar Stylism: Desiré Espinosa y Moisés Utrera Makeup: Lulú Pérez Models: Olga y Dariya Extensions: Elegance Hair Extensions

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Fallon Carberry

Festival hair trends Festival season is approaching and it’s our favourite time of year at #BLOW. We have been avidly scrolling through Insta looking at Coachella and all upcoming music festivals.

Fallon Carberry BRAIDS #BLOW braids are still BANG ON TREND, it’s a festival staple that will last all weekend. #TopTip — Add hair rings, chains or jewellery to jazz it up.

ADD A HEAD SCARF OR RIBBON All over Coachella we seen headscarf’s wrapped around braids and ponytails to match with festival goers’ outfits and it looks AMAZING. #TopTip — Go to your nearest vintage shop where you will pick up headscarves and designer finds at the cheapest prices.

MY RULES FOR FESTIVAL SEASON 1. Go big or go home.

2. When in doubt—add glitter.

3. Stand out from the crowd—this is your chance to get creative.

4. Durability—If you plan on dancing away to the early AM then your style has to last all night long.

WORDS BY FALLON CARBERRY

BEACH WAVES They look better as the day goes on—the ‘I woke up like this’ kind of gal—the messier the better. #TopTip — Add a jewelled hairband or on-trend hair clips from recommended site, French Fashion House: as worn by Billie Faiers.

GLITTER If you are not finding speckles of glitter everywhere weeks later—did you even go to a festival? Glitter in your hair is like highlighter for the face—the more the better!

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Emotionis Collection LUCIANA SABARIZ

Hair: Luciana Sabariz and Norma MejĂ­a, SABARIZ Hairtists Hair assistants: Alexander Blanco and Rosa Aso Photographer: David Arnal Makeup: COLORS UP, Escuela de Maquillaje Stylist: Luciana Sabariz 62 | SalonNV Magazine

ECO SALONS

A

s 2019 marches on businesses are finding it hard to justify not buying into sustainability. The suggestion of becoming an eco-friendly salon might be shrugged off as a millennial craze by some, but there’s a strong case for going green.

The impact that the hairdressing industry alone has on the environment hasn’t gone unnoticed. University of Southampton researcher Dr Denise Baden won the Outstanding Impact in Business and Enterprise prize in 2018 from the Economic and Social Research Council for her study on how hairdressers can minimise their impact on the environment and encourage clients to do the same.

Baden’s research into the environmental impact found that hairdressers have a unique client-professional relationship, getting much more of a personal connection than other professions. Dr Baden suggests that, aside from making greener choices themselves, they are in a unique position to influence their clients to adopt eco-friendly hair and beauty habits with a bit of chair-chit-chat.

This influence that stylists can have was recognised by the UN Population Fund, who in 2009 rolled out a project with barbers and hairdressers in Guyana, training them to be able to talk about HIV and its prevention with their clients.

So there’s no reason this can’t be applied here in the UK. Baden has successfully launched a

Sustainable Salon or Stylist Certification, which has been awarded to more than 50 salons and over 1,000 stylists since its launch in April 2017. Any stylist or salon can apply for the certificate, which involves a free online training course making you aware of greener options for salons, and is backed by the Hairdressing Council and the Hair and Beauty Industry Authority.

Aside from the obvious tips like switching to energy-saving lightbulbs and installing a thermostat, there are a few salon-specific actions that can reduce your carbon footprint. Giving single-use plastics a new lease of life by reusing them in the salon and at home.

Introducing refill stations to the salon can encourage clients to come back to purchase more products and saves containers that otherwise would have been thrown out.

Although, it should be said that disposable isn’t necessarily synonymous with harmful. Disposable towels have proven to be a hygienic and costeffective way of reducing your energy usage. Instead of continuous towelwashing, the single-use towels can save thousands of pounds a year in energy costs. Plus, these are natural fibre eco-towels, meaning that they’re 100% biodegradable.

Water saving showerheads are a simple way to upgrade your salon and reduce water wastage. Dr Baden’s team found that heating water was the most energy-

intensive activity, topping even the use of hair dryers and other styling tools.

Some eco-showerheads can reduce water usage by as much as half which seems like a no brainer. You can take this further by only using tepid water to wash hair, or shampooing once instead of twice.

There are also some indirect methods of reducing your impact on the environment. Working with organic, nontoxic products can also have a positive effect on the environment with added health benefits for your clients’ hair.

Some salons are switching to ammonia and formaldehyde free products to inflict change. Environmentally friendly doesn’t need to suggest a sub-luxury experience for clients.

The organic health and beauty market has seen growth for its eighth year in a row, according to the British Soil Association. Environmental issues are ever topical and with a growing market, salon heads should be turned. Making the switch to green could attract an ecoconscious clientele, and breed financial returns. People might dismiss it as a trend but eco-salons will soon be the de facto.

WORDS BY CAITLIN FYFFE

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SUSTAINABLE SALONS Going green is very on trend in 2019 with consumers becoming increasingly aware of the importance of sustainability in everyday life. More and more salons are taking notice of this and going green, rethinking the way their businesses work to create an ecofriendly environment. The beauty and fashion industries are known to have sustainable alternatives; however, sustainable salons are often overlooked despite the growing trend.

ELAN HAIR DESIGN Elan Hair Design, based in Inverurie has been nicknamed the UK’s most eco-friendly and sustainable hairdressing salon. Going green isn’t just a trend to this salon, being sustainable is key to their business. Elan Hair Design has over 90 award nominations and 25 awards for their environmental innovation and sustainability policies. Their awards cabinet boasts prestigious titles, National Recycling Awards, Zero Waste Awards, The British Chamber of Commerce Award and Climate Week Award. These awards have seen the salon go up against big names in business such as Orange, BT and Marks & Spencer. An impressive achievement this salon boasts is their highly praised carbon management plan, as well as cutting their annual electricity bill from £6,100 to £797.

ALCHEMY SALON Salons all over Scotland are taking notice of the demand for greener services, the rise in consumers purchasing only crueltyfree products are proof that change is coming. Glasgow-based salon Alchemy is known for only using high quality, cruelty-free materials. Alchemy salon, the winner of the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards [SHABA] in 2016 only use sustainable natural based hair line Davines. The ‘green’ life is built into the salon at Alchemy with natural wood floors and recycled fittings.

Alchemy’s motto is to use only Davines’ cruelty-free and sustainable products to ensure the business and consumers can enjoy their services with a clear conscience.

WESTEND HAIR Another purely cruelty-free salon based in Glasgow is WESTEND Hair, located on Great Western Road. WESTEND Hair only uses Aveda products because they are naturally derived and ethically sourced with links to the business’s core values. Connecting professionalism, integrity, ethics as well as beauty, environment and well-being—it was an

obvious choice for WESTEND Hair to use Aveda. The salon is currently supporting Aveda’s ‘Know What We’re Made Of’ campaign which promotes transparency in their products. WESTEND Hair gives a hard pass to toxic ingredients, parabens, formaldehyde, petrolatum and lanolin instead focussing on all-natural ingredients. Inside Aveda products like the Be Curly Curl Enhancer, there is wheat, aloe and geranium.

MCGILL’S HAIRDRESSING McGill’s Hairdressing in Edinburgh is another completely cruelty-free salon using Davines’ sustainable haircare line. As well as only using cruelty-free products, the salon is committed to fighting against single-use plastic by offering anyone who brings back their Davines shampoo or conditioner bottles a refill with a 20% discount.

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recyclable or biodegradable materials. The hair salon also stocks Lily Lolo cosmetics, a toxin-free range of mineral make up for people who are conscious about what they put on their face. Since opening her salon in 2006, Emma always wanted to strive towards using the best and most natural products in her salon.

The salon soon became one of Edinburgh’s leading hairdressers through the skills of the staff, this was recognised at the SHABA 2018 awards. Hair colourist, Maya Buchanan won the Scottish Hair Colourist of the Year at SHABA 2018. At the moment, the salon recycles 80% of their waste and aims to put as much back into the planet as they take from it.

EMMA HALL HAIR DESIGN Emma Hall Hair Design is Edinburgh’s first organic and cruelty-free hair salon and is thriving through its sustainable and economic devotion. Emma Hall Hair Design specialises in using Kevin Murphy which are some of the most organic products you can use on your hair. The Kevin Murphy range uses completely natural ingredients free from sulphates, parabens and is packaged in

THE PLAYERS LOUNGE Established in 2007, The Players Lounge in Edinburgh has been specialising in sustainable men’s hair and grooming for twelve years. The entire salon is centred around sustainability with mirrors made from recycled church pews as well as the waiting bench. The salon has signed up to the Resource Efficiency pledge with @resourceScot focussing on improving recycling, energy efficiency and keeping Scotland clean. As well as focussing on other pledges and recycling, the salon only uses products that are sulphate, paraben and cruelty-free using ethical companies like EVO and The Green People.

JAMES DUN’S HOUSE James Dun’s House is a salon with bases in Glasgow and Aberdeen, bringing cruelty-free hairdressing to two major Scottish cities. This salon specialises in using Aveda products providing some of the best hair treatments due to the fact the formulas are up to 96% naturally derived. The plant-based oils in Aveda’s products allow hair to be protected and not dried out from nasty chemicals.

It’s reassuring to see so many salons take products and sustainability methods into account when conducting business.

Sustainability is the future of the hair and beauty industry, and these salons definitely know it.

WORDS BY SIOBHAN MACDONALD

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Holiday Hair Prep S AL LY B R O O K S • H E F F Y W H E E L E R • S I M O N S TAI N T O N We all want to look our best on holiday. We look to Pinterest, to magazines and celebrities for hair and look inspiration. But there’s inspiration all around and there are plenty of simple styles to go with. Here, SalonNV speaks to three experts not just styling for the sun, but how best to protect your hair from the adverse effects the sun might have.

HOLIDAY HAIR Fringes are undoubtedly a key summer trend and shorter haircuts have made a decided comeback. So, products will play a massive role in both your summer and holiday looks. One of the easiest—and quickest—looks is to wear your hair in top knots and messy buns with shorter, quirkier fringes. It’s a great look and is sure to keep you cool day and night.

British Hairdresser of the Year, Sally Brooks says: “Ponytails are a summer staple and for 2019 can be worn high or low. But however you wear your hair, the key accessory will be the fringe and shorter face-framing layers around the face, making a short haircut from the front whilst retaining the length through the back. And once you’ve styled the hair don’t forget to accessorise with grips, slides and bling.”

EXTENSION AFTERCARE ABROAD It is important to understand how different climates and environments can affect the condition of fitted hair extensions. While on holiday hair extensions need extra care and attention, as they will be subjected to chlorine, salt water and sun exposure. To ensure your clients take the necessary steps to maintain the original vitality of their Zen Hair, UK educator Simon Stainton gives SalonNV his exclusive tips for maximum aftercare on holiday.

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He says, “Always ensure that you take your Zen Hair specialised hair extension shampoo and conditioner. Not only have these been designed for use with Zen’s Hair Extensions, but they also provide the vital nutrients, helping to maintain maximum softness and shine. Free from sulphates, parabens and Sodium Chloride, Zen’s luxury line of aftercare products wash away impurities and imperfections, gently cleansing the hair to reveal unbeatable shine and an ultra smooth gloss finish.”

Simon recommends following with one pump of Zen Hair’s finishing serum to dry hair.

“Formulated with Macadamia oil, this lightweight serum locks in moisture and works to nourish your clients Zen Hair Extensions for the ultimate fresh, salon finish!”

BEACH HAIR Heffy Wheeler, OSMO brand ambassador and owner of HX Hair says, “The beach babe is your

typical classic holiday hair, OSMO Matt Salt Spray will help mattify your locks and encourage natural-looking texture, perfect daytime look whether it’s a day by the pool or cocktails at the bar. Bad gal braids—perfect for your favourite summer festival, add accessories to create your own individual look. OSMO Matt Salt Spray is essential for beach babe waves, delivering a matt texture with mega volume it’s a must-have in every suitcase.”

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E-COMMERCE

E-commerce provides salons with another path to increase their revenue even when doors are closed.

Salons allow their clients to look and feel their very best, so why would they not look to give them the same opportunities out with their regular appointments.

So much can happen between appointments and you do not want the influence of your hair story to fade away. The story you weave through appointments lets you recommend and give guidance for after clients have left your chair. Hair and beauty products are easily accessible, there’s no getting around it. You have to divert customers away from mass-retailers through the in-salon experience you offer.

Adding an e-commerce page

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enables clients to buy the products you recommend. Your clients will buy for home products anyway, so why should they not buy them from you, the expert?

This might sound daunting, but hiring a dedicated person who knows and understands your business as well as the digital world can make all the difference.

Additionally, a good salon management software will keep your online marketplace ticking over. These systems will not only track staff and your earnings but your orders and fulfilment.

Allowing your business to be barrier-free.

Depending on the volume of orders you expect you’ll need to set aside time to dedicate to fulfilment. Keeping in mind that big online retailers have spoiled the public. While you do not need to offer next day delivery it is crucial you are well organised. If you fail to meet orders on time it could lead to a loss of business.

But it’s equally important to remember you are not Amazon Prime.

Salon Systems educator Ruth Atkins says, “Salons are under more pressure than ever to retail products to clients,

some clients may be up to their budget limit after having a treatment, so this is why adding an ecommerce page to their website is a great idea.

“The internet is awash with businesses that can help. Make sure you have someone in place to man the orders on a daily basis and remember, whilst you may not be able to go head to head with the popular e-commerce giants you’ll need to pick, pack and post in a reasonable time and have the benefit of personalising that order to your client by offering suitable complimentary samples with their orders or vouchers for discounted treatments.

“Try to log sales onto the client record cards so you have an idea what items need restocking.”

E-commerce presents a new world of opportunity for your salon and your customers. The flexibility in allowing clients to purchase products day and night. This service not only gives the salon opportunity to earn while you are closed but also adds further dimension to the salon experience.

Borealis Collection

GONZALO ZARAUZA & ALEX AZURMENDI Hair: Gonzalo Zarauza and Alex Azurmendi, Centro BETA Photographer: David Arnal Makeup: De MarĂ­a Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Stylist: Visori Fashionart SalonNV Magazine | 69

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Twilight Texture TRACY DEVINE-SMITH Hair: Tracey Devine-Smith Styling: Desiree Lederer Makeup: Maddie Austin Photography: Richard Miles Products: A.S.P Affinage Salon Professional SalonNV Magazine | 71

Suzie McGill

The benefits of providing education It's proven that hairdressing is one of the happiest career paths you can take. A couple of reasons for this are the opportunities and progression available, the creativity and all the events and awards you can get involved with. It makes you proud when you change a clients' look, making them feel better and more confident. A lot of young people are now pressured to go to university or are unsure about how to take up a career in hairdressing.

Here, Suzie McGill from Rainbow Room International discusses the importance of investing in training, going into school to talk about hairdressing opportunities and the effectiveness of salons having their own academy…

A lot of young people these days are doing their training in salons, then after they qualify go on to freelance and doing their own thing. I think this is primarily due to not having enough support and proper training. It’s so important for salons to be able to provide their young up and coming hairdressers with training in order for them to flourish and be the best they can be and also for them to

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want to stay and grow with the company.

Training and education also ensures stylists are constantly up to date and developing their skills and knowledge, as well as providing stylists with confidence.

Training in these areas is extremely important to ensure staff are happy, feel secure in their job and want to stay with the company.

Always invest in training or consider having an academy to be able to provide constant training not only to your new and young stylists but everyone within your salon/salon group.

Once you have effective training and education in place it’s important to promote this and one of the best ways to do this is to go into schools and colleges and talk about hairdressing careers, academies and training opportunities available to young people. This will get them interested in the industry and what it has to offer. It’s also worthwhile liaising with your salon's local schools, colleges and universities to see if they have any

upcoming career days, where you can exhibit and have a stall to speak to students and hairdressing opportunities and hand out leaflets etc.

Open days can always be applicable where you can invite hairdressing students for surrounding colleges into the salon to see what you’re about, how your salon looks and what it has to offer them. At Rainbow Room International we are so lucky to have a training academy that has been producing some of Scotland’s brightest talent since 2003.

Our academy mentors are top stylists and train over 80 students a year to the highest industry standards and also attracts many hairdressers from the UK and overseas. Some of our students may start in the academy, however, they also get days in the salon to get hands-on, where they can work with the team there and learn from them and get more hands-on experience. Our training academy really is the forefront of our business and has helped us all to grow and develop over the years and really nourish our young apprentices and develop them into incredible stylists.

WORDS BY SUZIE MCGILL, OWNER OF RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL’S UDDINGSTON SALON, SCHWARZKOPF UK AMBASSADOR AND INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AT RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

Edward Hemmings

Apprenticeship reforms that make the cut As of 1 April 2019, UKbased salon owners obtained a reduction in employer contributions payable for older apprentices—meaning that for service industries such as ours, which rely heavily on well-trained and qualified staff, we have the chance to not only make cost savings but help more people realise their career aspirations.

I think these changes are great news but I challenge whether they are enough to create the workforce our sector needs.

Financially speaking, saving up to £350 per apprentice aged over nineteen may not be the be all and end all for some employers, especially when taking national minimum wage rises and pension contributions into consideration. However, it will certainly help the advanced apprentice at NVQ Level 3, for whom the contribution is only approximately £150. The key thing, to me, is not to get side-tracked in the detail, and instead remember that these reforms should act in the interests of businesses and for older apprentices. For example, when recruiting, these reforms should encourage salon owners to think of older apprentices too.

Layered across all of this is the imperative need to raise standards across the hairdressing, barbering and beauty industry. This is in the interests of both consumers and workers alike; in raising education standards we raise the bar on quality across salons and services around the UK and our sector’s reputation. And where does this begin?

At the start of every worker’s career as an apprentice. These employer cash contributions are key to bringing more

people—including older apprentices— into the fold and upskilling them through recognised qualifications. At my salon, we run rigorous training, setting them up with the skills they need to advance throughout their career and give back to our industry.

In order to close the UK skills gap further, the Government should consider removing the employer contribution entirely and offer grants for all new apprentices regardless of age. This would give the service industry a boost and steer us into a positive post-Brexit economy. Simultaneously, it would show parents and learners alike that this Government is taking vocational industries such as ours as seriously as university offerings, and encouraging more people into the industry. Most importantly, it would not discriminate against those young people aged over nineteen who have tried something but want to realise a different career path.

I would like to see the industry come together, unite and push for a reduction in national minimum wage rates for

those aged over nineteen and in the second year of training. Although a steep ask, it would send a strong message of encouragement to those thinking of entering our industry. I believe it would have a positive impact and potentially even improve training as employers would be under less pressure to complete training in the shortest possible time if any grant is viewed as a salary contribution.

The good news is apprenticeships are starting to be taken more seriously by schools. With good and honest careers advice, based on the aspirations of school-leavers, rather than the financial implications on the school they may be leaving, the industry can only get stronger.

WORDS BY EDWARD HEMMINGS, DIRECTOR OF ALAN D HAIRDRESSING EDUCATION, A VOCATIONAL TRAINING CHARITABLE TRUST ACCREDITED CENTRE

SalonNV Magazine | 73

Emil McMahon

The positives and negatives of social media Part of my daily working life is the maintenance and caretaking of social media. This basically involves posting out daily images and info that help keep the companies I work with in front of their followers as they scroll through Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Everyone is searching for a post that goes viral, an image that gets thousands of likes, lots of comments and shares plus tags; tags that link their activity to someone or something else. Most organisations use social media as an advertising tool, boosting posts to generate more engagement, sharing special offers and dropping in competitions and giveaways to encourage followers to interact with their platforms.

But, in the real world, not the cyber world that social pages live in, people don’t engage as much as some might hope.

Facebook with it’s never-ending "friend" recommendations means people can have thousands [of friends] that in turn have thousands as well. Of course nobody is going to read and respond to every post everyone shares. It’s the same with Instagram, business pages have lots of followers but that doesn’t mean they automatically search out their posts each day. Twitter is virtually impossible to keep track of because of the way the page feeds are shown. Unless you have notifications turned on for everyone, any post can get lost in amongst the daily splurge.

What then should businesses do to make sure their posts are of benefit to them? My honest advice is: • Post daily • Don’t just post pictures of hair • Use minimal text • Add humour • Always feature your company logo • Don’t buy followers • Be ‘pro’ and ‘not so pro’ Posting daily content keeps your name in your followers' feeds, so whilst they may not like, share or comment, they always see you featured as they scroll through.

Mix your imagery up, feature your team, the products you offer, your clients (with their permission), the services you provide and your environment.

Don’t use too much text, no one reads it. A maximum of 5-6 hashtags and a few key words is enough. Use 2-3 consistent hashtags about your business and 2-3 about the subject matter of your post.

Humour and funny posts get great engagement as they show to your followers your posts are not automated—they are real and relevant.

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If you have a backdrop with your logo on it, always use when showcasing team or clients. Create a simple template for any other posts which have your logo embedded.

Under no circumstances should you buy followers. You do not buy real people, you purchase an algorithm that does nothing for your actual business. Having thousands of followers might look good on paper but it won’t bring anyone new into your salon.

Most importantly make sure your posts are a blend of professional images, usually supplied by your product suppliers, and a mix of not so professional snaps and phone shots you take yourself. Social media is the home of the amateur and that’s what your followers enjoy seeing. *One final point that is worth bearing in mind… if you have a pet, I guarantee it will get more interaction than any other post you share.

WORDS BY EMIL MCMAHON

Ross Miller

Apprenticeships and training

W

hen I was asked to write an article about apprenticeships and training, I had a bit of a mental block! What am I going to write?

How can I get a message across?

Now, this may seem odd—especially when you run a salon and an academy— this is your topic and surely something you are comfortable with?

But this is why I had the block. This isn't about me, our academy or our apprentices, this is about hairdressing as a whole and the future of salons and apprentices.

I could easily have written an advert for our academy; listing all the wonderful things we do for salons, stylists and apprentices, the opportunities we give for stage work, advancing skills and helping set up good training in your salon and growing your ethos, but I chose not too. I believe we are here to help, and we need to talk about how we all can help.

Why is this such a big deal you might ask? I think it's vital we all, and I mean every one of us who calls themselves a hairdresser, salon manager, receptionist, colourist and all the other names we love in salons, stop! Look around you at your

place of work, your amazing clients and ask yourself this...

How did I get to where I am today?

Who helped me?

Who gave me my future?

I say this because from all over the UK salons strive to give apprentices, highquality training, boxes being ticked and many other negative comments. The one thing I don't hear as much is 'what can I do?'

What can we do to make sure these things are not happening?

To ensure quality is upheld and most importantly to safeguard the future of our industry—that we know is struggling in many ways right now.

With 62% of the industry now selfemployed it begs the question... who is going to train the apprentices?

As a salon owner, I have been selfemployed myself and I have selfemployed professionals working with me. So I know about this personally and I also do many support talks to salons about ways to run and support these setups in-salon.

By and large, the way apprentices are trained is in college and salons. So, the questions are, who is training your apprentices? Have you got any? Are you struggling to keep them? Are we giving enough of our time to work with them? And, if you are self-employed or employed, how much of a part in apprentice training do you take? Do you see yourself playing a part in? Or even consider that it is your role to do this?

The answer is simple!

We all have a part to play. As a qualified hairdresser, receptionist, salon support member or a self-employed hairdresser, we all have a role to play in developing and supporting an

apprentice. It's not for us to presume it is someone else’s job to do this.

If an apprentice is holding hair for you whilst doing highlights, talk to them about what you are doing, pass on information about things you have found helpful when blow-drying. Call them over when you're cutting hair, let them watch you and tell them why you are doing a particular line, section, colour etc. This is all that you need to do to support this individual in gaining experience.

It's not always about taking a training day in the salon and giving up a day you could be earning money for yourself— although someone did for you—it is about small things to help support your apprentices, to help support your salon and make your clients' experience what you want them to be.

So the next time you are in the salon, have a look around and think about your apprentices and the support you can give them. Talk to them, be their colleague, be their mentor. You were once in their shoes, so you know how it feels.

Let’s not criticise our apprentices for doing something wrong, it means they're learning as we all continue to do.

Let’s not point fingers at academies or colleges about the standard of training and tick box society. Let’s start to take responsibility and have a positive impact on our industry and not let it become something we do not want to see.

At Medusa Training, this is something we implement into our salons, we talk to everyone, not just apprentices and make sure they realise their roles and responsibilities in nurturing the future.

If you need support from us, we are here to help set up and support your training needs and also help take it, if you can’t do this yourself. If you struggle to find, keep or train apprentices, we can help your salon grow.

If you want to talk more, ask advice or anything regarding your salon and apprenticeships, Medusa Training is here to help.

Contact us on 01324 638 603 or email info@medusatraining.co.uk

WORDS BY ROSS MILLER

SalonNV Magazine | 75

Katie Hellier

Get your skin summer ready With the Summer fast approaching, I thought I’d do a little article on how to get your skin summer ready and share with you some of my favourite products for enhancing your natural glow.

I say it time and time again and can’t stress enough that skincare and hydration is key to a perfect canvas for your makeup. Of course, moisturising daily and drinking plenty of water plays a huge part in this!

I always hear complaints of dull, tired-looking skin and makeup not lasting throughout the day. If your skin is even the slightest bit dehydrated and you don’t have a regular skincare routine in place, the minute you put makeup on your skin it will start to absorb it as it doesn’t know whether it is skincare or makeup. It's just relying on some moisture, so your skin soaks up what it can.

This is why I highly recommend a primer between your moisturiser and foundation to create a barrier and help keep your makeup on all day. Primers are great for preventing any products blocking the pores whilst letting your skincare do its thing underneath.

Back to the skincare. There are lots of different brands and products out there to choose from. My personal daily skincare routine consists of a variation of Kiehl’s products including the Ultra Facial Cleanser, Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum and the Creamy Eye Treatment with avocado. I also use the Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Mask once or twice a week to unclog pores and tighten skin.

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If I have an event coming up and want an extra treat for my skin I love using Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Facial Dry Sheet Mask which leaves your skin glowing and red carpet ready in just 15 minutes!

With this in mind if you're like me and your aim is for nice healthy looking skin you won’t want to pack too much makeup on top— embrace your natural skin and tan if on holiday.

Some of my summer essential makeup products include: • Soleil Tan De Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base which is a gorgeous creamy lightweight bronzer which gives a light and even sun-kissed look—perfect for holiday nights!

• Iconic London Prep-Set-Glow is a glowing hydrating mist absolutely gorgeous on its own or on top of makeup and adds a beautiful finish to your body too.

• Mac ‘Tan’ pigment creates a lovely wash of colour over the eyelids to make your eyes pop.

• A good waterproof mascara - two of

my favourites include Lancôme hypnose and Too Faced better than sex mascara!

• For lips, I like a nice brown or tan lip liner like the Mac Spice being a popular one then my life Saviour Pawpaw ointment to keep hydrated and give a little sheen (swear by this product for dry chapped lips).

• I always finish my face off with a spritz of urban decay all nighter setting spray will be sure to keep your makeup in place this summer.

WORDS BY KATIE HELLIER

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MANUEL FERRERES

Time Collection Artistic Director: Salรณn FIVE Hair: Manuel Ferreres @ Salรณn FIVE Photographer: Esteban Roca Stylism: Ban & Ro MUA: Nacho Sanz

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T R A I N I N G DATES A day with Patrick Cameron – Long hair education Date: 4th June Location: Manchester Cost: £300 + VAT Book: 0161 834 2645 or wellastudiomanchester@cotyinc .com Few people can demonstrate the passion, the showmanship or the skill of gregarious Patrick Cameron. We are thrilled to offer Patrick’s phenomenal long hair education at the Wella Manchester studio for a bespoke one day course.

Be it beautiful bridal hair, radiant red carpet looks or perfect prom styles, no long hair client should have to make do with ordinary styling. Thanks to step-by-step demos and up close and personal guidance dressing Long Hair with Patrick Cameron will ensure that you have the confidence and the competence to create a wow factor with all your long haired clients. Patrick will showcase 5 to 6 looks from his latest Signature Collection and you’ll take part in practical workshops using premium quality long hair blocks to recreate 2 of the looks. You’ll leave with a new found ability to create up dos with the wow factor. If you love the theatre of hairdressing and have an interest in beautiful up-styling, this is your dream day!

The Texture Maker with ghd Creative Artist Charlotte Mensah Date: 24th June Location: London Level: Beginner—intermediate Cost: £220 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com To make every client feel like a queen, it’s essential to be able to work with different hair types and textures. In this seminar, Charlotte Mensah will teach you how to develop your confidence with Afro hair so that you can broaden your skill set – and clientele. Charlotte will dispel the myths surrounding Afro hair and teach you some of the tips, tricks and techniques that have helped her become an expert.

The session covers: • How to treat, prepare and select the

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right products for Afro hair • Getting the best results from the ghd platinum+ styler • How to promote Afro styling services in your salon to grow your audience

The Curve Session with ghd Creative Artist Patrick Wilson Date: 26th June Location: Dublin Level: Beginner—advanced Cost: £195 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com Curls and waves are a client favourite and who better to learn the latest on-trend looks from than our expert, Patrick Wilson? The master of gorgeous, ‘grammable hair, Patrick has created red-carpet looks for Cindy Crawford, Mollie King and Jade Thirlwall and is renowned for his glam, pristine waves. Find out how to create that perfect ‘Wilson wave’ with a seminar that will guide you through every step of styling with tongs and wands, with tips, tricks and techniques for laidback looks, big bouncy curls – and everything in between.

The session covers: • Understanding the ghd curve® range and choosing the right tool for your look • Wrapping and sectioning techniques to achieve trend-led looks • Time-saving methods to improve your service offering and ROI

The Styler Session with ghd Brand Warriors Date: 26th June Location: Manchester

Level: Beginner—advanced Cost: £195 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com It’s the star of our lineup and, in this session, you’ll learn how to make the most of your ghd styler. First we’ll show you how to master those goto techniques that you use time and again, then we’ll show you how to maximise those skills to create new trend-led looks that clients will love.

The session will also cover essential knowledge of the ghd styler range – including the incredible new ghd platinum+ to give you endless styling opportunities on the salon floor and leave you fully equipped to transform your client offering.

The session covers: • Understanding the ghd styler family and choosing the right tool for your chosen look.

• Sectioning and styler movements to achieve trend-led looks.

• Time-saving methods to improve your service offering and ROI.

The Bridal Edit with Anne Marie McElroy Date: 1st July Location: Limerick Level: Intermediate—advanced Cost: £220 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com If you’re looking for a course that brings you up to date with bridal styles that are cool, this is for you.

This bridal workshop will be aimed at teaching stylists the latest hairup and styling techniques used on the more fashion-conscious bride.

It will cover consultation, styling with cool accessories (ribbon, kela beads, hair vines, fresh flowers, etc.),

backcombing, prep, products, tools, working with padding and extensions.

What you will learn: • 3 looks –Boho bride, Cool Girl bride & Glam bride • How to create looks that photograph well • How to work with bridal styling to unlock new business for your salon • Bridal consultation tips • Working with accessories and veils

Cool Huntress with ghd UK brand ambassador Zoë Irwin Date: 8th July Location: London Level: Intermediate—advanced Cost: £220 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com Trends are big business, and a powerful way to make your salon stand out from the competition. If you’re interested in session hair, they’re essential. Trends are the cornerstone of inspiring creative work that resonates in the real world, making this workshop a must-have for budding session artists.

In this seminar, our UK brand ambassador – and queen of cool – Zoë Irwin will show you how look beyond fashion to get inspired and turns your trends into hair concepts that stand out and make a statement.

The session covers: • Expert insight into how, why and when trends emerge • Where to source trends beyond the runway • Developing your creativity to stay ahead and stand out

Session to Salon with ghd Creative Artist Luke Benson Date: 15th July Location: London Level: Intermediate—advanced Cost: £220 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com Today’s clients are more trend-savvy than ever, and in this workshop you’ll learn how to keep their style cravings satisfied by taking looks from the runway to the real world. Led by session stylist Luke Benson, this indepth workshop will show you how to turn three catwalk trends into salonfriendly styles, to keep your business ahead of the game.

The session covers: • The perfect ponytail • Braids and knots for hair-up

• Hair pieces

The Braid Artist with ghd Creative Artist Leigh-Anne Regan Date: 22nd July Location: London Level: Beginner—intermediate Cost: £220 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com Braids are #goals on social media and can be big business for stylists that are confident and creative with their skills. With more than 8 million results on Instagram, carving out your own creative niche in this area is essential to stand out – and that’s where we step in.

In this seminar, our expert Leigh-Anne Regan will get technical to help you upgrade your braids. She’ll lift the lid on techniques for new results, inspiring runway trends and details that make all the difference, so that you’re equipped to head back to the salon confident in your skillset.

The session covers: • How to create new shapes and finishes with fundamental techniques • Getting creative with textures and accessories • Building braiding into your day-today salon styling

The Essential Edit with ghd Brand Warrior Samuel Johnson Date: 15nd July Location: Edinburgh Level: New to ghd styling Cost: £75 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com Welcome to the family! If you’re new to ghd, this no-nonsense introductory course is for you. You’ll immerse yourself in all things ghd and learn more about our full lineup of professional styling products including the game-changing ghd platinum+ styler, ghd air® hairdryer, and our must-have range of curling tools, ghd curve®.

As well as learning the benefits of each of our tools, you’ll also learn the lingo to make retailing easy and watch demonstrations of the five fabulous, fundamental ghd techniques: • ghd 90 and 180 degree ribbon curls using ghd stylers (on horizontal, vertical and diagonal sections) • The pre-blow technique with ghd air®

• The two essential ghd curve® wrapping techniques.

The Blow-Dry Session with ghd Creative Artist Zoë Irwin Date: 25th July Location: Birmingham Level: Intermediate—advanced Cost: £195 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com Master the art of finishing hair with the media’s Queen of the Blow-Dry, Zoë Irwin. In this session, you’ll bring your blow-drying skills bang up to date with the latest trends, techniques and insights into getting the most out of your ghd dryer. You’ll learn how to create the classics for powerful, clientfriendly results, then how to update the essentials with trend-led twists.

The session covers: • Trend-led blow-dries to create cool finishes and textures • How to set and heat-seal a finished look for the longevity that clients demand • Blowing out hairlines and other details that elevate your results

The ghd Factor with ghd global brand ambassador Adam Reed Date: 29th July Location: London Level: Intermediate—advanced Cost: £280 + VAT Book: seminars@ghdhair.com Knowing how to get into TV and session work can be challenging; where do you start? How do you get your break?

In this seminar, our global brand ambassador Adam Reed will guide you through the world of session styling, sharing his years of experience and essential know how. This is your chance to work with a session legend.

The session covers: • Expert insight into how to create looks that are session worthy • How to build your portfolio to be recognised in the session world • Developing your creativity to stay ahead and stand out

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T R A I N I N G DATES DURATION

COURSE

COMPANY

LOCATION

Various

1 day

Advanced Men’s Grooming

Capital Hair & Beauty

UK (Various)

On request

1-4 days

Expert Cutting

Scissor Hands

Your salon

From £300

May, June, July

4 days

Micro Pigmentation

JL Aesthetics

Accrington

From £3,145 info@josephlanzante.co.uk

On request

1 day

Advanced Techniques

Racoon Hair

Your salon

On request

1 day

Micro Ring Extensions

Barclay Wolf

Your salon

From £650

info@barclaywolf.com

14-16 May

3 days

IPL Laser

Lynton/Manchester Uni

Chesire

£840

info@lynton.co.uk

May, June, July

1 day

Plasma Pen

Love Plasma

Wiltshire/Manchester

£3,500

info@loveplasma.com

Various

10am-3.30pm

Derma Planning

Capital Hair & Beauty

UK (Various)

£400

capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

Various

10am-4.30pm

Beginners Facial

Capital Hair & Beauty

UK (Various)

£95

capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

On request

1-3 days

1-2-1 Tuition

BTS With James Molloy

Stockport

From £850

enquiries@jamesmolloymakeupschool.com

On request

1 day-12 weeks

Professional Makeup

DFMA

UK (Various)

May, June

2.5 hours

Spray Tanning

Radiant Glo

Talbot Green

£75-£350

tayloredforyou@hotmail.co.uk

14 May

1 day

Level 3 Spray Masterclass

Sienna-X

Manchester

£99

01905 727 070

May, June, July

1 day

Waxing

Lycon

UK (Various)

£149

0207 590 9300

June, July

1 day

Advanced/Intimate

Lycon

UK (Various)

£149

0207 590 9300

May, June

1 day

Brows Professional

Sienna-X

UK (Various)

£195

01905 727 070

19, 21 May

3 days

Microblading & Ombre Brows

Advantanced Aesthetics

Chesire

£1,200

aestheticscheshire@gmail.com

15 May

1 day

Lash Lift

Lash FX

Loughton

£238.80

02085 009 028

10th June

1 day

Russian

Lash FX

Ipswich

£238.80

02085 009 028

12th May

3 days

Full Gel Bottle Course

The Gel Bottle

Sheffield

£558

education@thegelbottle.com

23rd May

1 day

Gel Extention Conversion

The Gel Bottle

London

£204

education@thegelbottle.com

3rd June

1-2 days

Beginners Nail Art

The Gel Bottle

Stockport

£163

education@thegelbottle.com

DATE

COST

CONTACT

HAIR capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk linda@scissorhands.info

info@racooninternational.com

AESTHETICS

MAKEUP

admissions@lipsticktowers.co.uk

TANNING

WAXING

BROWS

LASHES

NAILS

*Dates and prices are correct at time of going to print and are subject to change

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SalonNV Magazine | 83

@tonyj_rebel

@nor ymarmua

I N S TA G R AM

Showcase Tag @salonnvmag to feature your work in our next issue!

@sarahwebleyhair

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@alicemorrellmua_

@teresawellerhairart @onglerie.melissa.t

@_hakaro_mua

@thehairlounge246

@buna.beauty.bar @mesarthair SalonNV Magazine | 85

NEW TO E-CHAIR.COM e-chair.com is an online platform for chair and space rental at the forefront of revolutionising how freelance hair and beauty professionals work. Check out the latest salons with space to rent on e-chair.com now.

HABSBURG & BOURBON Fulham

£800 (per month)

Habsburg & Bourbon pink blow bar in Fulham Broadway is seeking professional hairdressers, makeup artists, and threading artists to rent a chair in its beautiful pink Parisian blow bar. They will provide shampoo, conditioner, and towels.

The salon is situated in the heart of Fulham Broadway, 10-minutes from Chelsea football ground and shops and cafes surround the area. There is also a Whole Foods next to the salon.

Habsburg & Bourbon Salon is a fantastical place inspired by an iconic, polarizing Queen for today’s stylish yet savvy women.

The Habsburg & Bourbon features a play area for women and children in the heart of London’s Chelsea.

Contact: hello@houseofhabsburgandbourbon.com

PL ATINUM HAIR AND BEAUT Y Runcorn

Negotiable

Platinum Hair and Beauty are glad to offer the opportunity for self-employed hairdressers and beauticians to rent a chair in the salon. Having your own clientele is not a must, as the salon advertise on your behalf and distribute clients fairly—great rates and extras are available.

Contact: jaywilliams89@hotmail.co.uk

NEUTON HAIR SALON London

Negotiable

Neuton Hair Salon has a chair available to hire for a hairdresser who wants to be more independent, who already has an established client base and wants to serve in a professional environment, wants flexibility with their schedule but is not yet in a position to open his\her own salon.

The salon seeks a professional who looks after the salon as well as their colleagues, so an independent team-player is the best way to describe who Neuton are looking for.

Rent by negotiation.

Contact: 0207 683 1502 Send your CV to Dani for consideration.

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MD BEAUT Y LOUNGE Glasgow

Negotiable

MD’s Beauty Lounge is Glasgow’s newest goto hair and beauty destination. They have chairs to rent in a brand new stunning city centre salon on Bath Street.

They use the best products and have chairs available with and without products. More information will be provided on request.

They have: 2 x Salon Chairs, 1 x Nail Statio, 1 x MUA space Please contact Muna on 07543 750858

THE SOCIAL London

£120 (per day)

The Social is at the forefront of changing how the hair industry thinks. Creating a world lifetstlye studio in true collaborative fashion, based in London and the Lake District. The Social encourages the flexible work ethos of the “freelancer” community. They embrace your sporadic movements and let you take control of your own time, money, and opportunities.

With five chairs available or the whole salon and/or the Social Studio, photo studio. Three hair or makeup chairs and two barber chairs.

Contact: ky@kycut.co.uk

HIDDEN HEIGHTS STUDIO Gateshead

£120 (per week)

A hidden railway arch in the up and coming Bridges Quarter area of Gateshead. Just a short walk from Newcastle City Centre. Hidden Heights offer an inspiring workplace allowing you and your brand to grow independently. Founded almost five-years-ago it was among the first of its kind. It enables forward-thinking individuals in the creative fields of photography, hair, barbering, and professional makeup—a collaborative space to create.

Contact: info@hiddenheightsstudio.com

SalonNV Magazine | 87

SPONSORED BY

// INGRID PEREGRINA

IN THE CHAIR

Australian born Ingrid Peregrina is a previous winner of the Best Makeup Artist award at the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. An experienced makeup artist, Ingrid has over seven years experience with editorial, fashion and bridal looks and has work with some the biggest name in the industry.

Ingrid has built a successful career which has seen her shooting with the Fellowship’s 2018 FAME Team, as well as working at Salon International, the Wella Trend Vision, ProHairLive Manchester and even Perth Fashion Week!

SNV: How did you feel winning your award at SHABA? IP: Absolutely delighted to have that industry recognition! The SHABA awards are a big deal, so it’s rewarding to know your work is appreciated and noticed. It’s a tough competition when you’re among that calibre of finalists who are at the top of their game, so there is also a bit of disbelief thinking ‘how the hell did I pull that off?’

SNV: What advice would you give to professionals looking to enter awards like SHABA? IP: There is fierce talent out there, so I’m all about self-improvement and thinking how can I develop my skills to better work. My advice would be to evolve with the trends but also try to find your niche in what sets you apart from others, develop your style or signature. It’s not

88 | SalonNV Magazine

EACH ISSUE SALONNV BRING YOU SHORT INTERVIEWS WITH SOME OF THE BEST IN THE INDUSTRY. ALL SPONSORED BY E-CHAIR.COM. always safe to break away from what everyone else is doing but that could be the thing that books you over the next person for that editorial front cover, fashion show or winning at the SHABA Awards!

SNV: Where do you get your biggest inspiration?

IP: My biggest inspiration comes from working with other creatives. I love working with an inspiring hairdresser and watching them create a style that I can adapt a makeup look around to compliment it or go the other direction to intentionally clash with it. I love having a collective vision with a team of stylists, photographer and models on a photo shoot and playing with material, textures and exploring colour to create an image where everyone’s talents work in harmony. Playing off each other’s strengths inspires me.

SNV: What do you feel are the biggest trends at the moment in the beauty industry?

IP: We’ve noticed the shift from heavier full coverage matte foundation to the fresher no makeup-makeup looks with the current trends of Yoga Skin, Butter Skin and Glass Skin, all using techniques to create a hyper-dewy and healthy, glowing realness to the skin. I’m all for that!

SNV: What are your top picks for products and tools?

IP: I’m loving Charlotte Tilbury at the

moment. Her products are the créme de la créme for luxury bridal makeup and translate beautifully photographically!

The Pillow Talk collection is divine and I can’t go without slipping on a layer of her Wonder Glow Primer over every face for that ‘lit from within’ freshness.

SNV: With so many different talents do you think diversity has been the key to your success?

IP: Absolutely! There are plenty of faces and enough makeup artists around that we can all play with different techniques, trends and tones to create infinite looks.

Scrolling through my Instagram, my discover tab is an endless stream of incredible work from varied artists and often I will see a photo and recognise the artist’s work before seeing their name because they have developed their individuality. I just do my own thing, my own way and continue to strive in developing my own expression in my work.

SNV: What do you have planned for 2019?

IP: I have a big year ahead professionally and personally with my summer wedding approaching in early July, and yes, I will most definitely be doing my own makeup! I have work lined up with Goldwell, Wella Trendvision, Scottish Field Magazine and a few personal creative projects in the works so it’s full steam ahead.

Find Hidden Heights, Gateshead on e-chair.com

Work anytime, anywhere, any place Join e-chair.com today and find businesses with salon space to rent in your area

“Our industry is going through a huge shift with so many stylists taking control of their careers... I see this being a new standard in freelance hairdressing, offering a whole new avenue of revenue for stylists and salon owners alike.�

Jonathan Andrew, Hairdresser

Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules

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